Field of the Embroidered Quilts by School of Art, George Mason University

F ield Of the Embroidered Quil ts BY MARIYAE ALAM

“What may we know of the secret sorrow Of the shepherd in the field? In vain we search in our joy and our pain This secret of his to yield. Our griefs written in verse and book That those who read may know. But dumb are the griefs of the shepherd boy Which only the flute can show.” -Jassim Uddin

CONTENTS

Introduction ...................................2 History ...........................................6 Nokshi Kathar Math .....................12 Design and Composition...............16 The Stitch ......................................22 Types and use of Nokshi katha .................................26 The Process ...................................30 Fashion and Inf luences ................38 Katha Today ..................................44 Glossary ........................................ 50

PROLOGUE

It was a sunny winter day, I came home from school with my dadabhai ran towards the kitchen under the mango tree to see what my dadi prepared for lunch. Dadi would would always wait for me to come from school to make sure I am fed before she continues with her daily chores. In the late afternoon, after all the house work had been done she sat in yard under the shades of the supari tree with her katha and her paan( betel leaf) thaali. While she chewed on her betel leaf, she would start placing the stitches on the katha. Even the earliest memory of my dadi that I have, she was already old but that did not stop her from creating kathas in her free time. With her needle and thread she would “paint” for hours while I ran around the yard watching my grandpa taking care of the animals. I did sometimes come and watch her and listen about her day, but I was more interested in the designs my aunt would make on her katha when she came home from college later. While I loved what my grandma made, the elaborate embroidery my aunt did on her Nokshi Katha is what I wanted to be able to do but as an eight year I could not master those skills. Traditionally, I would be expected to learn however I was a bit spoiled by my grandma and aunt so they never really pressured me. Those memories however stuck with me as I came to America.

INDRODUCTION The earliest mention of Katha is only five

needlework and hand embroidery has been

hundred years old, however the tradition of

practiced by Bangladeshi poor women among

making layered quilts from old clothes goes

the part of rural areas for their family use.

back much further. It was first mentioned in

“Similar concepts of quilt making exists in other parts of the world as well, but what makes Bengal quilts unique is the fact that not only does it serve as an everyday functional item, it also represents the culture’s identity and folk art.”

a book by poet Krishnadas Kaviraj. In his book titled Sri Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita, the poet writes how the mother of Chaitanya sent a homemade katha to her son in Puri through some traveling pilgrims. You can see the same katha today on display at Gambhira in Puri. This was not the first katha to be made, however it is the first one historically recorded of and kept.

Even today every Bengali family owns at least one katha, if not multiple.

“Katha” refers to both the style of running stitch, as well as the finished cloth in quilting. In Bengali ‘katha’ (also spelled kantha, kata, kheta) simply means quilt. For decades, the application of artistic pattern in the art of

In the beginning kathas were simple and made of just layered old cloth sewn together to keep the family warm during winter.

“Over time, more elaborate patterns developed, which later became known as ‘Nokshi Katha’.” Nokshi comes from the Bengali word, naksha, which refers to artistic patterns. Nokshi katha is made up of motifs influenced by religion, culture and the lives of the women stitching them. Back in the day kathas were much more personalized with scenes from the lives of the women creating them, however now in the modern times they mostly contain of floral patterns. I believe consumers just find these designs more aesthetically pleasing. Image curtesy https://srejonee.com/

Image curtesy https://tedfo.com/

HISTORY Originally introduced in the rural villages of Bengal, the art of making katha expanded throughout South Asia. It was very common practice in a lot of household, however in the early 19th century this art form disappeared for some time before being revived in the 1940’s by the daughter-in-law of the famous Bengali poet and Nobel Laureate, Rabindranath Tagore. The revival of katha was disrupted again during the partition of India in 1947 and the ensuing conflict between India and what was then Eastern Pakistan (now Bangladesh). Finally since the Bangladesh Liberation War in 1971, katha has experienced a re-birth of its own as a highly valued and much desired art-craft form in Bangladesh.

In the early days these quilts were made to

The art of reflection in life, aspirations, and

just to be used in the family or be given as a

culture of the village women show their

gift, they were not meant to be sold. Overtime

significant visibility of artistic pattern in

the women found ways to make money from

needlework such as ‘Nokshi Katha’. A lot

this craft and began selling it. Since it was

of the time these katha will tell the life story

a common practice in the village and every

of the women making them. The defining

family made their own katha, most of their

element of this embroidery is the running

customers were from the cities or towns

stitch that creates beautiful motifs of trees,

outside of the village. This required the

flowers, animals, birds, simple geometrical

women to make connections and travel far

shapes, scenes from everyday life in the

to be able to sell their work or work with

village, to mythological themes and folklore.

other businesses in order to gain customers.

Similar to other traditional textiles, creating kathas was influenced by external factors such as material availability, daily needs, climate, geography and economic factors. Historically, textile production was one of the most labor-intensive industries, and as such, textiles were highly valued. Creating kathas out of old fabrics allowed the people to save money and they were able to recycle old clothing for a different usage. Kathas were made using recycled fabrics like old used sarees and dhottis. Around five to seven fabrics would be layered together, with lighter colored fabrics on the outside so the stitch and pattern was discernible. The stitch would cover the entire cloth to provide strength, and later designs would be added for the aesthetics.

Using old fabrics and different types of stitches artisans were able to create different textures in the fabric as well along with the design.

Image curtesy Geoff Bugbee and houseofwonderingsilk.org

Creating kathas can be very time consuming and requires a lot of focus as well. As shown above the stiches can be microscopic to achieve a certain design.

NOKSHI KATHAR MATH The reference of Nokshi katha is widely

One day Rupai went out to see the

present in Bengali literature and art. One

harvesting of the crops with other village

of my favorite example is a book of poems

men. Unfortunately while he was away

titled “Nokshi Kathar Math” by popular poet

a fight broke out between the men. In the

Jasim Uddin. Many of Jasim Uddin’s signifi-

consuming battle, someone gets killed

cant works portrayed the rural life of Bengal

and Rupai must go into hiding to protect

in a simple yet strikingly artistic fashion.

himself, and has to leave Shaju alone.

That is why he is known as `PolliKobi’ or Folk

Shaju waits for her love to return, not

Poet. ‘Nokshi Kathar Math’ is no exception. It

knowing if he ever will be able to do so.

is a folk love story ending in tragedy. It’s a

To help pass the time, she starts portraying

very popular poem and is often discussed

the sad tale of her life in a Nokshi Katha,

in school.

a quilt sewn from old clothes with delicate stitches.

The poem is a dramatized Bengali verse narrative, that tells the tragic love story of Shaju and Rupai. Shaju is a beautiful girl from a neighboring village and Rupai fell in love with her. With the help of a match maker, and the consent of their parents, Rupai and Shaju get married. For some time, they lived happily. However their happiness did not last long and things took a turn. 12

“Shaju sat sewing, with her head bent over a little. She hears the crackle of leaves on the path, She pricks her ears to listen. He whom she awaits comes not, it is mistake. Yet the leaves make no sound for a little she is unhappy. Taking the lamp in her hand, she opens the door andlooks out again and again. Yet he does not come. If only she had wings, today she would fly to her love. The quilt is embroidered with many patterns, She has drawn a picture of their wedding; she has drawn the home of Rupa”

Days, months, years go by, and Shaju still waits for Rupai to return to her. Finally, one out of anxiety and hopelessness, one day Shaju falls down and dies. According to her wishes, her grave is to be covered with the Nokshi Katha that told the story of her life and love. Rupai finally returns to his home and in grief joins his wife in death. The people of the village renamed their village `Nokshi Kathar Math’ (Field of Embroidered Quilt) to immortalize the tragic saga of Rupai and Shaju’s illustrated love. Jasim Uddin’s narrative almost paints a picture of the rural life in a village in Bangladesh. Featuring the tragic love story between Shaju and Rupai, the portrayal of traditions, struggles and way of living as a whole are presented eloquently in Nokshi Kathar Math.

DESIGN AND COMPOSITION The design of kathas can vary from simple to very intricate design patterns. Traditionally it was never drawn and copied on the fabric, it was done free hand using just the needle, with old fabrics in the form of a saree and some thread. There may have been some compositions and planning done to make space divisions and plan the placement of the motifs but it was always done ‘free hand’. It was like painting with a needle. Although there is no strict symmetry to nokshi katha, a fine piece will usually have a lotus as a focal point, with stylized birds, plants, fish, flowers and other scenes surrounding this. Present day, mandala styled designs and floral patterns are very popular. The motifs of the Nokshi Katha can depict folk festivals, marriage ceremonies, the lotus, boats, horses, carts, flowers, fish, elephants, umbrellas, water pot, decorative plate, trees, wheels, etc. 16

Muslim women especially concentrate on geometric and floral motifs, the crescent, star, domes, minarets, verses of the holy Quran. Since drawing faces is not encouraged in Islam, they focused on more abstract patterns and Islamic inspired designs. Katha designs in the Hindu community told of folk beliefs and practices, religious ideas, themes and characters from mythology and epics and the social and personal lives of the person making them. Over time the katha designs became less personalized and similar floral designs became popular. If you were to go to a market today in Bangladesh, you would mostly find floral patterns. Of course you can always get it custom made as well, to suit your needs. Currently mandala/floral designs are very popular, there are mny variations on these designs avilable in the market today

Over time the katha designs became less personalized and similar floral designs became popular. If you were to go to a market today in Bangladesh, you would mostly find floral pattern. Of course you can always get it custom made as well. 17

In the early days it was common to use the running stitch across the fabrics or creating simple geometric shapes as shown above

A popular theme was also inspired by the everyday life of the women. In the image below you can see the women cleaning the rice after harvesting

Example of a design inspired by the Hindu religion, they oftern depicted their many gods and ceremonies.

Image curtesy http://sos-arsenic.net/

Simple flower designs are found on katha that are for everyday use.

Image courtesy www.wanderingsilk.org

THE STITCH The beauty of katha design is that the shape is formed by looping threads on one surface only, so the reverse side of the fabric remains a simple katha of straight, running stitch, while the front side is a complex geometric pattern. Stitches used would also vary enormously. From a combination of special borders made with the humble running stitch, to a vast array of European stitches can be found in some old kathas. For example, one old katha fragment has shown to have used chain, darning, satin, running, dot and seed stitches along with traditional stitches typical to a Nokshi Katha.

In modern usage, katha more generally refers

katha is popular in Rajshahi (Bangladesh) and

specifically to the type of stitch used. The

is divided into soja (straight or simple), kautar

earliest and most basic katha stitch is a simple,

khupi (‘pigeon coop’ or triangle), and borfi

straight, running stitch. Running katha can be

(diamond) forms.

further classified into that using figures and storytelling (nokshi katha) or geometric pat-

The Sujni katha type is only found in the

terns (par tola katha).

Rajshahi area of Bangladesh. A popular motif is an undulating floral and vine pattern. It’s

Running katha, is a straight running stitch

worth noting that Sujni is also practiced

and the original and earliest form of katha.

in Bihar. Cross-stitch or carpet katha was

Lik or Anarasi (pineapple) katha is practiced

introduced by the English under the British

in the Chapainawabgonj and Jessore areas of

Rule in India.

northern Bangladesh. There are numerous variations of this form. Lohori katha or ‘wave’

Embroidery Pieces Using Sujani Embroidery (Image Courtesy: nishaggarwal.blogspot.in)

Examples of patterns that make up a par tola katha ( Geometric pattterns). This pattern is often used in a Muslim prayer rug.

Lohori kantha or ‘wave’ kantha. (Image Courtesy: https://scarydriver.wordpress.com/

TYPES AND USE OF NOKSHI KATHA

The size and shape of the katha would be

Expectant mothers spend the last trimester of

determined by its end use. The Sujni Katha is

their pregnancy in making Nokshi Katha for

a decorative blanket or a coverlet. This type

the new-born baby, believing that wrapping

of katha may be used for special occasions

the newborn baby in a Nokshi Katha heralds

when guests are over or for day to day use,

good fortune for the family and protects the

based on the elaborateness of the decorative

baby from disease. When a girl gets married

motifs embroidered on it. A Gilaf or a Bostani

she would take a katha from her parents’

is used as a book cover, specially made

house with her to the in laws, taking with her

for covering the religious books or texts.

a memory of home.

Examples of Nokshi Katha uses: 1. Quilt or Nokshi Katha

4. Daster Khan

Traditionally, Nakshi Kathas were

Dastarkhan is a small rectangular

made as quilts for cold weather. It is

nokshi katha to cover the place to

also made in a smaller size for

serve food for a ceremony or

children to use.

special occasion.

2. Jainamaz

5. Other uses

People used to make their own prayer

Tables cloths, furniture covers,

mats. They used religious symbols to

book cover etc.,

decorate them. They were different

were made using Nokshi Katha

from the store brought prayer mat.

designs. They were used as decorative pieces.

3. Floor Spread

6. Modern Uses

Many used Nakshi Kantha as a

Apart from the traditional uses, katha

floor spread. Unlike Kathas, they

designs has now become a fashion

did not have layers of

statement. To promote this tradition,

fabrics. Those were mainly

many designers are incorporating it with

decorative pieces.

modern clothing or accessories.

Kathas are very comfortable for newborns and toddlers to use. Children love being wrapped in cozy blankets made by their mother.

THE PROCESS

You will need fabric of your choice, threads, neeedle and a embroidery hoop.

The cost of making ‘Nakshi Katha’ is mini-

The lines are drawn neatly in pencil.

mum, but the value and time-consuming

Depending on the type of katha one is

embroidery work make it luxurious and

making the steps may vary. Traditionally,

valuable. A medium-sized quilt takes 2-3

multiple saree would be layered and first

months to complete and valued around 1,000

just sewn together to keep them together so

to 5,000 taka. The profit margin is sufficient

that the design can be traced on to the fabric.

due to the availability of old clothes and

Then a embroidery hoop would be placed

simple material. The process of making a

around the part of the design that’s to be

katha would start with first making a sketch

embroidered.

of the design before transferring the final design onto a tracing paper.