Henna by School of Art, George Mason University

Henna BY YUSRA HASSEN

Henna YUSRA HASSEN

Dedicated to my family, friends, & Malcolm, my cat!

TABLE OF

Contents 07

INTRODUCTION What is Henna?

ORIGIN OF HENNA History

CULTURES & COUNTRIES Henna around the world, Henna and the west, Arab world, Indian design, East Africa

TYPES OF HENNA How it is used, Red Henna, Black Henna, Natural Henna, Herbal Henna, Finding Henna

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT HENNA! How does Henna work?, What color will my Henna design be?, How long do henna designs last?, Is Henna safe? Working with Henna, Making your cone, Henna application tips

INTERVIEW QUESTIONS! Rayan Hamid, Sharmeen Moinuddin

INTRODUCTION What is Henna?

Henna is a type of plant which grows in Africa, northern Australia, and in southern Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tropical climates. Lawsone, a pigment found within its leaves interacts with proteins to produce stains. Throughout the ages, Henna has been used to dye hair and produce body art designs due to this staining consistency. It is the source of the dye used to dye skin, hair, and fingernails, as well as fabrics including silk, wool, and leather. Perhaps one of the earliest forms of cosmetics is Henna, as Ancient Egyptians frequently colored their hands

and nails with a paste made from the henna plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dried and crushed leaves. An ancient art style widely used by two of the cultures portrayed in The New Americans (Indian and Palestinian), was used to produce elaborate and undefinable patterns that imitated that of gloves and slippers. The patterns are drawn to the skin with a dense paste made from the henna plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ground leaves (Lawsonia inermis) and have been used for thousands of years by desert societies across the Middle East, Africa, India, and Egypt.

ORIGIN OF HENNA History

The use of henna expanded from North Africa to India, where it acted as a hair dye in the Royal courts of the fifth century. Henna was utilized for its cooling properties in the searing heat of India’s desert regions. It was believed to cool down body heat and as a result, was slathered on the hands and feet to keep body temperatures down. Over time, the bold red henna circles drawn on the palms gave way to smaller, more intricate designs that adored temple dancers, aristocratic ladies, and brides’ hands and feet. Though henna is mostly associated with a girl’s coming of age and marriage, it was also historically used in Persia and Central Asia to stain the hands of warriors going into battle. Henna designs were not only reserved for human adornment, even bright orange henna patterns were decorated on horses, sheep, and goats. In some cases, you would even see cherished white stallions paraded through town in certain parts of the Middle East and South Asia, with the mane, tail, and hooves dyed a deep crimson! The inhabitants of India’s deserts learned that a colored paste from the Henna plant henna enabled them

to feel cooler by coating their hands and feet. Instead of just smearing it on, it was not long before people began creating elaborate patterns with the colored paste. Designs’ sophistication expanded and started to take on significance. Brides finally started to decorate their feet and hands as part of their wedding ceremonies with henna. Over time, several other henna rituals started to appear and develop. For starters, at birth, a women’s hands were painted with henna because women with intricate henna designs did little household work so that their body art would not be ruined. At weddings and childbirth, tattooing women’s hands gave them a few weeks where they could bond with the new husband or new baby and not be bothered with regular household chores. It was often believed that the tattoos would grant blessings and bring forth good luck.For more than 5000 years, the usage of henna for body art has been utilized. The elaborate designs can signify life passages and are often added to enhance a person’s natural beauty. This tradition developed over time into an art style with elegant lines and dots on the hands and feet. 9

CULTURES & COUNTRIES Henna around the world! The word henna derives from the Arabic name for lawsonia inermis, a flowering plant. Henna Bush can reach a height of 10 feet and thrives in Africa, South Asia, and the Middle East’s humid, arid climate. In the sun, the leaves of the henna plant are dried and ground to produce a fine green powder that is sold both as hair color and for body art. The Henna plant’s beautiful yellow and pink flowers are often grown for their fragrant

essential oil used in perfumes. In North India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, you might have seen henna called by numerous other names, and it’s usually called Mehndi. The Arabic word Henna is used in North Africa and the Middle East. In the Bible’s song of songs where it is referred to as camphire, you will find a reference to Henna. It was known in Victorian England as the Egyptian privet.

Henna and the west!

Since the early 19th century, henna has been used in the west as hair dye. Hair coloring used henna in combination with other plants and herbs, such as indigo and Cassia, before artificial hair dyes came into use in the 1930s. The signature red hair of Lucille Ball was dyed with henna. She once joked that her daily Henna orders were keeping Egyptâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy afloat! For thousands of years, Henna has been used for the body is in the east, this usage has only recently gained traction in the west. In North America and Europe, fascination in the Eastern cultures has fueled the Henna craze, with pop stars such as Madonnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wearing Moroccan henna body Art in music videos and henna artist setting up

shop at street fairs around the world. For thousands of years, Henna has been used for the body is in the east, this usage has only recently gained traction in the west. In North America and Europe, fascination in the Eastern cultures has fueled the Henna craze, with pop stars such as Madonnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wearing Moroccan henna body Art in music videos and henna artist setting up shop at street fairs around the world. The leaves of the henna plant are dried for body decoration, ground into a fine powder, and made into a creamy paste using a number of techniques. Then, this paste is added to the skin, staining only the top layer of the skin. It can paint the skin an orange or brown color in its normal form.

Arab world Henna has been adapted from Arab and Middle Eastern communities. The use of henna dye on the hands and feet of ladies in elaborate, elegant patterns. In preparation for a celebratory event, such as weddings and parties, it is applied. It is common for brides to have it extending up to her hands up to her forearms

in intricate patterns, and feet stretching to the thighs. A few days before the wedding, the bridal party, including the brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mum, sisters, aunts, and mother-in-law will invite a professional henna tattoo artist to the brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home to get this beauty treatment

Indian design The most famous and commonly seen in India consists of all things beautifully Indian! The Indian henna style has always had something new to give for every generation and every occasion, from single trails on the back and front of the hands to full coverage of the hands-on both sides. While the hands are decorated with dholkis, palkis, bride-groom artwork, mandap,

Kalash, and various other auspicious artwork portraying a marriage ceremony in the Indian mehndi style, the non-bridal still has a lot to give. All types of styles of artwork are incorporated from paisleys to florals, checkered, dots, secret names, and objects of traditional meaning are all used in the Indian mehndi theme.

East Africa

The usage of Black henna is very common in East Africa. Henna can be worn throughout the year in Sudan, while henna is only worn during weddings in Pakistan. Besides, only married women are permitted to have henna performed on their feet in Sudan, Ethiopia, and Eritrea, while henna on the feet is not associated with marriage at all in other cultures.

TYPES OF HENNA How it is used

The leaves of the henna plant are dried for body decoration, ground into a fine powder, and made into a creamy paste using a number of techniques. This paste is then added to the skin, staining only the top layer of the skin. It can paint the skin an orange or brown color in its normal form. In areas like Africa, Asia, and the Middle East, Henna is used. African countries prefer to keep patterns wide and colorful with large outlines when it comes to henna tattoos. There are very detailed Middle Eastern and Indian styles that rely on many details and ornaments. Henna ink is a perfect alternative to permanent tattooing, no matter where the venue is. Henna is constantly getting more popular and when it comes to having temporary tattoos and coloring hair,

it is now the preference of many people. Henna is made from dried leaves ground up, and the powder is combined in different ways to get the desired form of a paste. Different dye forms vary from black henna to herbal henna. These are the five various forms of henna dye that are available.

Where on the body

Henna is used on the hands, feet, hair, and fingernails. Henna is also used as a natural body scrub if you use the real powder that is made. There is also a new trend that henna is used to fill in eyebrows and makeup companies have made false freckles using henna.

Red Henna To dye hair, red henna is also commonly used. It is a wonderful natural alternative to conventional hair dye, but it is important to note that since the dye is a natural product, not every one's hair can come out precisely the same. Based on the darkness of the initial hair color, a shade of reddish orange will appear from the hair color. Hair is also considered to become more luscious, thick, and silky looking.

Black Henna To make darker tattoos or black hair dye, black henna is henna that suppliers have applied black dye to. The compound used to make henna black is called Paraphenylenediamine. This can be very harmful for the skin, as blisters, sores, and scarring are known to the

side effect. Others can be harmless with black henna, and some can be very dangerous. Henna is healthy and herbal, but there is a chance of skin issues by applying black dye to henna. It is recommended to keep away from black henna altogether.

Natural Henna Natural henna is used frequently used in temporary body painting. It is used for conditioning and dying hair as well. If you dye your hair using natural henna, you can expect to see a deep dark brown hue as a result. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll leave your hair full of shine, giving it a natural gloss that

everyone desires. Natural henna can leave a brownishorange mark on the skin in the perfect pattern when used for temporary tattoos. Depending on the amount of natural henna used as well as how long it was left on the skin to dye is how dark the henna would be.

Herbal Henna Herbal henna is also used for temporary tattooing as well as a hair treatment to dye the scalp. This form of henna is mainly known for its medicinal characteristics. It promotes hair growth, treatment of scalp conditions, and bringing natural strength and life to the hair. It

leaves a dark reddish-brown color behind it, so make sure you are satisfied with the color before starting to use it. So, if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re searching for a dye that will leave you with a rich color and calming relief from the skin, the best alternative is herbal henna.

Finding Henna! You can buy henna powder or paste at most Indian, Pakistani, or Middle Eastern grocery stores if you would like to continue making henna body art using conventional henna. There are several options available online for henna artists to purchase henna and share ideas, recipes, and techniques if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t happen to live near an ethnic grocer. Henna is available in powder form as well as cones that are premixed and ready-made. Pre-mixed henna can be an easy and time-saving choice, but within a few weeks of purchase, you will need to use it. It should always be kept in the fridge when not in use. The consistency of henna available on the market is sadly not as consistent as fresh henna. Henna packets remaining on a shelf gathering dust for months would surely not have the same dark stains as fresh Henna. In

order to illuminate small twigs and plant fibers, some henna powders need sifting. Chemicals and additives are found in some powders of henna. Never buy henna that promises to make the skin dyed black. Some individuals pick the brightest green powder they can find while they shop for Henna. Such henna powders, however, can be chemically improved to give them a more vivid look. Experimenting with a few different brands and asking about is your best bet. Fortunately, you can afford to play with henna powder, which is relatively cheap and easy to obtain. There are countless online henna types that have been created over the years, as well as individuals who have posted reviews of favorite Henna brands.

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT HENNA! How does henna work?

Henna contains a molecule called Lawsone, which especially binds skin, hair, and fingernails to proteins. The Lawsone molecules enter your skin cell when you add the henna paste to your skin, giving them a redorange hue. Henna stains dead cells in the surface layers of the skin, unlike permanent tattoo ink, which is rubbed deep into live skin tissue. The henna dye fades when the skin exfoliates naturally.

What color will my henna design be? Depending on the skin chemistry, the length of time you keep the henna paste on, the amount of time you stop using water on the skin after applying the henna paste, color, and extreme strength of the henna pattern will vary. A light stain may portray a pale orange color while a rich reddish-brown color will have deeper stains emerges.

The henna paste when applied to the skin appears dark

Once the paste is removed the stain will appear as a pale orange shade, and the color will further intensify 24 to 48 hours after removing the paste

How long do henna designs last? In deciding the longevity of your henna pattern, there are several variables: the consistency of the henna, the henna paste ingredients, and the length of time that the henna paste lasts on your body-the longer the better. The temperature of your body and the temperature of the air are both influences. Heat encourages the

skin to penetrate the henna which makes a stain that lasts longer. Darker stains last longer when they have penetrated deeper, as a rule of thumb. There can be a deeper stain lasting anywhere from two to four weeks. Within one week, a lighter stain will begin to fade.

Is Henna safe? People have considered the application of henna relaxing and conditioning for the skin for many decades. Henna allergic responses are very rare and hardly found. A slight allergic reaction to the natural oils used in the application of henna may be present in people with delicate skin.

Working with Henna Although your henna pens have immediate results, it takes some time and experience to work with traditional henna. The first step in the process is to make a henna paste if you buy henna powder. There are a variety of natural ingredients you can add while making the paste to improve the color of your henna pattern. To name a handful, regional favorites include black tea coffee and tamarind paste. You can apply a few drops of terpenic oils, such as lavender, tea tree, cajeput, and eucalyptus

oil. Recipes vary from region to region, and also from individual to individual. Some henna artists hold a well guarded secret in their henna paste formula! Note: if you do not intend on using your henna powder, store it in an airtight jar or plastic bag directly in the plastic. Henna, left out and exposed to light at room temperature, begins to lose its effectiveness. Henna properly preserved in the freezer will last for years.

Making your cone Henna artists would painstakingly create designs on the skin in earlier days, with the help of a small stake made of wood or metal. Dulled needle syringes are widely used to apply henna in North Africa today. The form that is ubiquitously found in India and Pakistan is the plastic or mylar cone. Henna artists in the West have also

recently become common with small jacquard bottles with metal tips. These are available in art supply stores that carry supplies of silkscreen. Before you find one that you are happy with, consider playing with various application tools. If you want, follow these steps to make your own henna cone.

Using a big freezer bag or slice a square bit out of a plastic sheet. A sheet of wrapping paper with mylar is also a nice choice. If you use a freezer bag to cut off the ends, split the sheets down until it is 8 x 8â&#x20AC;? so you have two square bits and save the excess piece for a second cone.

With a tiny hole at the tip, roll the plastic sheets into a cone shape.

Strengthen the cone by adding tape to the seams inside and outside.

Spoon the paste of henna onto your cone. Squeeze it down to the tip to avoid air pockets from reaching the open end of the cone until it is halfway filled.

Cover the top opening with tape. Try to squeeze a fine Henna line out. To remove any air pocket or debris covering the gap, pinch the tip of the cone between your thumb and forefinger if nothing comes out.

Henna application tips: Now that your cone is full and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready for Henna, take these steps for a long-lasting, gorgeous Henna tattoo:

Prepare your skin: ensure that any soap, sunscreen, or other lotions that might serve as a barrier between the henna paste and your skin is thoroughly washed away. You should try rosewater washing, which serves as a soothing natural cleanser that soothes the skin.

Lemon and sugar: squeeze 1/2 lemon juice with a teaspoon of sugar into a small bowl and mix until the sugar crystals are dissolved. After adding your henna design, you can dab this solution on your skin. The citric acid breaks down the Henna fibers in lemon juice so that the skin observes the coloring more thoroughly. The sugar serves as a coating, helping to protect and keep the design moist.

Cotton balls and swaps: after Henna has begun drying on the skin, use cotton balls to dab on the lemon and sugar solution. Cotton swabs tend to tidy up imperfect lines and brush out faults from the henna. You would undoubtedly want to have these available as the henna dye starts to color the skin in seconds.

Where to apply henna: In general, hands and feet observe henna dye well since the skin in these places is deeper so that the dye can absorb more deeply. If you add it to the palms of your hands or the soles of your feet, you will possibly get the darkest stain, since the skin on your upper arms and chest is lighter, it may not contain as much of the henna dye, so you do not get a very rich stain.

Ready, set, squeeze: donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t place too much pressure on the cone otherwise, instead of a thin line, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll end up with a big Henna gob. Consistent control of the line weight in the Henna application is key. Focus on the pressure you place on the cone and keep your eyes fixed on the lines you make.

Let the magic work on the henna: relax once your design is complete and allow the henna to dry for 10 to 15 minutes. The henna should look less polished, but not cracked at this stage. In the lemon-sugar solution, dip a cotton ball and carefully dab it into the design of your henna, making sure not to smudge it. For the next hour, proceed to dab the lemon-sugar solution every 15 to 20 minutes.

Warm-up: keeping the skin warm will also further darken the stain at this point. You could sit outside and let the sun do the work if it was a warm, sunny day. Otherwise, consider a heater or a hairdryer with a heater.

For a deep, long-lasting stain: For 6 to 8 hours, keep the henna paste on your skin. If you leave the paste on overnight, wrap the area with a strip of tape secured with paper towels or toilet tissue to protect it from smudging.

Removing the paste: To scrape it off, use a fingernail or dull edge of a butter knife. To clean off any unwanted bits of dried paste, use a cotton swab dip and pure edible oil, such as olive, eucalyptus, or almond oil.

10.

Keep it dry: For several hours, avoid using water on the area. Although the henna paste has been removed, the henna dye is still absorbed by the skin. Depending on your skin color, your style will look pale orange or light brown at first. It will rely on its own color in a matter of hours. Your henna style should have a dark reddish-brown color the next day.

Interview Questions!

Rayan Hamid Falls Church, VA

How did you get into becoming a henna artist? What motivated you to become a Henna artist? The first time I ever did henna for anyone was during Eid Holiday. As we were shopping for Eid clothes and accessories from a Pakistani store, I noticed that they sold henna cones, so I decided to buy one and try it out. I did the henna on my little sister and it turned out looking awful, so I tried it on my older sister, and it looked alright, then finally I tried it on my cousins, and it looked decent. From that Eid, my cousins started asking me to do their henna rather than going to a professional henna artist. Of course, all their friends at school would see the henna designs on their hands and ask, “who did them?” In that way, more and more people started asking me to draw henna for them!

How long have you been doing Henna? I’ve been doing henna non-continuously for about four years. I only do it when there’s a special occasion, or if someone asks me to.

Where do you do henna? At home? A shop? Or do you travel to your customers? Usually, I do henna at my house. Sometimes I go to the customers home if they ask me.

Do you need a license? No, you don’t need a license to be a henna artist. If it becomes a full-time job for you and a significant source of income, then maybe some licensure wouldn’t be a bad idea. But I don’t charge any of my clients. Doing henna is more of a hobby for me, rather than a job where I earn money.

Can Henna be use for anything else? Hair? Nails? Eyebrow? Yes! Natural Henna can be used to dye hair and eyebrows. It is completely safe and even beneficial for your skin or scalp. However, modified henna with artificial colors added to it is unsafe. For example,” white henna” or” black henna” should not be used on your scalp.

Do you only design henna on hands? Usually, I do henna at my house. Sometimes I go to the customers home if they ask me.

If I were to do my own Henna, how would I do it if I was not artistic? There are many stencils available online to purchase. I have seen some really beautiful ones where they are sold in sticker form. In that case, you would stick them on to your hand, then place henna paste on top of the sticker. After it dries, you can remove the sticker and get a beautiful design as a result.

Besides Henna, do you do anything else for a living? Doing henna is a side-time hobby for me. Besides henna, I used to work at a school as a private Math teacher. Currently, I am taking a break to study for my MCAT in order to apply to Medical school.

Is there a school to study henna? If so, where? There are some vocational programs where henna designing is taught, but I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t personally know of any in the DMV area.

When creating your art, do you create whatever runs in your imagination or do you pre-sketch Usually, clients come to me with a design that they want and ask me to recreate it for them, therefore I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really get a chance to freestyle designs. Sometimes however, people ask me to design anything I want, and in that case I use Pinterest designs as inspiration!

Sharmeen Moinuddin Chicago,IL

How did you get into becoming a henna artist? What motivated you to become a Henna artist? Growing up, my sister would apply henna on mine and my sisters’ hands for celebrations. When I was 13 years old, she got married and moved away so I decided to take matters into my own hands. I always loved art, so I really enjoyed doing henna and naturally the more henna I did, the better I became!

How long have you been doing Henna? The first time I picked up a henna cone was when I was 13 years old and I haven’t stopped since! I’m 23 now. I started doing bridal henna 2 years ago!

Where do you do henna? At home? A shop? Or do you travel to your customers? Typically, I will travel to the client’s home! For smaller appointments I will have the clients come to me but for longer appointments such as bridal bookings or party henna bookings where I’m doing multiple guests, I travel.

Do you need a license? Having a license is optional. If henna is a full-time occupation for you, I wouldn’t discourage it!

Can Henna be use for anything else? Hair? Nails? Eyebrow? Natural henna can be used to stain eyebrows, nails, and hairs, and even your lips! It’s important to be cautious of chemical/instant henna which includes dangerous chemicals!

If I were to become a future Henna Artist, what are some tips? Practice makes progress! You could start by practicing on paper. The key is to practice the alphabets of a henna design! For example, practice your humps, swirls, leaves, dots, paisleys until you get them right! Essentially all henna designs are a combination of these elements! If you can master the basic components of a henna design, you’ll eventually be able to create any design! Otherwise, stencils are your best bet!

Besides Henna, do you do anything else for a living? Aside from doing henna, I am a diagnostic medical sonographer! I image people’s organs!

How often are you booked for creating henna on customers? Some months are busier than others! I typically will have back to back bookings during the holidays and summer months!

What occasions are you asked to do henna? Bridal? Babyshower? Typically, people apply henna when they are celebrating something such as a wedding, a religious holiday, a baby shower. But there doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be a reason! I have had clients who get henna done just because they feel like it and that is also ok!

Is there a school to study henna? If so, where? I am not aware of any schools that teach henna but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sure there are some available in parts of the world where henna is more popular such as Pakistan, India, and Malaysia! There are also a multitude of resources available on YouTube and Instagram to learn from.

When creating your art, do you create whatever runs in your imagination or do you pre-sketch everything beforehand? A little bit of both! I like to look at other artists work for inspiration! I typically will have some idea of what I want to do before starting a bridal henna but there is a lot of free styling as well.

If I were to become a future Henna Artist, what are some tips? I recommend practicing the key elements of a henna design over and over again first on paper with a pencil then with a henna cone! This helps to establish a muscle memory that allows you to keep your hands more stable during henna application thus making you more efficient and precise!

Why are some henna darker than others? Body chemistry has a lot to do with the darkness of the henna stain! Some people will stain better than others depending on how much heat their body produces. The thickness of your skin also has an effect on the stain! The thicker the skin, the darker the stain. Aftercare is also an essential step to achieving a darker stain! People who keep their henna on longer, avoid water for the first 24-48 hrs after application, and keep their hands warm and slick will be able to achieve a darker stain than those who do not follow those steps!

Is there a specific henna you use? I use natural henna only which I make myself so that I am confident in its staining ability! I strongly discourage the use of store-bought chemical cones (aka instant henna) which contains very dangerous chemicals that should not be applied to the skin. I would search for natural henna suppliers in your area or order natural henna cones from online henna suppliers such as @hennazart, @gopihenna, and @hennatrendz. I have used all of their cones and I can attest that they work amazing!

Thank You!

About the author:

Yusra Hassen is a student at George Mason University majoring in Art and Visual Technology with a concentration in Graphic Designer and a minor in Photography. She is a native Virginian born and raised. She has always had a love for photography, art, and design for as long as she can remember. During her free time she enjoys visiting new places, painting, and designing.

In this book, you’ll learn everything you need to know about henna: from the history of how it all started to how it is used. This book will guide you to making own cone and paste of henna. Henna was created to educate and inspire people who do not have henna in their cultures looking as well as new and up coming henna artists looking to learn more about henna. This book will teach you about the many kinds of henna there is to know. It features:

• The history of how it started • The different cultures & countries that use it • The different types of henna there is • Step by step on making your own henna • Interview questions and answers from henna artists