Scoop on Scoop Issue 5

Page 1

22 - 24 JULY 2018

SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON

R E G I S T E R T O A T T E N D AT S C O O P - I N T E R N A T I O N A L . C O M

Design printed under licence from Liberty of London Limited



First Word

KAREN RADLEY FOUNDER & MANAGING DIRECTOR

If I were to choose a store which best

Our exciting mix of UK and international names

represents the carefully curated, creative

continues across all floors of the Saatchi Gallery, so look

approach to fashion which we strive to

out for collections including Hayley Menzies, Polder and

achieve at every edition of Scoop, I could

Swildens alongside exclusives from emerging names

choose no better store than Liberty London.

such as Frenken, Hobsberg, Laagam and Violet Thomas.

So at a time when creativity, individuality and innovation

This being our summer edition – and with the glorious

are more important than ever as the keys to successful

heatwave boosting sales of high-summer product –

retail I can’t tell you how wonderful it is to be collaborating

we’re also showcasing a fabulous selection of beach

with one of the most iconic stores in London, and indeed

and swimwear from designers including Coco Ribbon,

in the world, on the spring/summer 19 edition of our

Pili & Kiki and Maiyo. Our accessories, skincare and

show.

perfumery offering is equally unmissable, with Claris Virot, Jean Michel Cazabat, Toolally, Porophu and

You’ll no doubt already have seen Liberty London’s

Grandiflora being just a few of the names to look out for.

exclusive Desert Rose print in our marketing campaign, and more Liberty delights await you when you arrive at

You’ll find a full list of designers showing with us this

the show. You’ll also see exclusive collaborations with

month on the final page of this digital magazine, in which

global icons Lalique and Cacharel which won’t be found

we’ve been able to showcase just a small selection of the

at any other trade event this season.

hand picked names exhibiting at Scoop this season.

We look forward to seeing you there.

Founder & Managing Director, Scoop International Fashion Shows


S C O O P T O C O L L A B O R AT E WITH LIBERT Y LONDON

Scoop is delighted to reveal this season’s

Karen Radley founder and creative director of Scoop

exclusive marketing campaign in collaboration

said, “I am passionate about supporting British brands

with iconic department store Liberty London.

whether they are emerging or heritage and I am thrilled that we are working with Liberty London this season to

The campaign, which uses the British retailer’s newly

create a special entrance at Scoop, a beautiful installation

created exclusive print ‘Desert Rose’, will be used this

of their collections and to have the opportunity to work

season across all marketing and present throughout the

with their iconic prints on our new season campaign.”

show when it returns to the prestigious Saatchi Gallery from 22 – 24 July 2018.

Mark Strudwick head of wholesale at Liberty London said, “We are very pleased to announce our partnership

Alongside the marketing campaign, Scoop is also

with Scoop this Summer to launch the new Resort silk

excited to announce that Liberty London will launch their

sleepwear collection using our “Desert Rose” print.

brand new Resort sleepwear collection at July’s Spring/

Scoop provides us with the perfect international platform

Summer show.

to reach a new audience of buyers, press and retailers and we are excitedly anticipating the show in July.”

The silk range, which uses Liberty London’s Desert Rose’ print, will be available at Scoop for the first time to wholesale customers, together with a curated line of classic Liberty London scarves and Iphis collection.

L I B E R T Y L O N D O N W I L L E X H I B I T AT T H E S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 E D I T I O N O F S C O O P F R O M 2 2 − 2 4 J U LY 2 0 1 8


Design printed under licence from Liberty of London Limited


cacharel • cacharel.fr


Cacharel Café SECOND FLOOR S A AT C H I G A L L E RY

Cacharel are celebrating 60 years. Join us at the Cacharel Café from 9:30am


Interview

C HA R L O T T E A L L E N - D E S I G N E R AT K L E M E N T S


Tell us about your collections

Please explain your business structure

and your role in the company? We stock our collection to over 55 global stockists made Klements is a collection of printed womenswear. I hand

up of boutiques and department stores. We sell online

paint the prints and these are digitally printed onto

via our website and currently have a small team of three

luxury silks and made into garments here in England and

wonderful women and one lazy stubborn dog.

scarves in Italy. Klements believes in slow fashion - buy less, but buy quality and only the pieces you love, that

You are showing at Scoop this July. What

you will wear year after year. I come up with the ideas for

sets Scoop apart from other trade shows?

the collection, and do all the designing and production for the collection.

How beautiful it is, the light, the calmness… it’s just our favourite place to meet our buyers and show them the

Can you tell me about your background?

new collection.

I original was doing fine art portrait painting at uni, but

Do you have a favourite place to shop?

swapped to a textiles degree as I had such an interest in fashion and textiles, and could see my skills directly

My absolute favourite place is the website Young British

transfer over, but give me an artistic edge. I then got a

Designers. Not only do they pick the coolest, most

scholarship from Paul Smith to do a Masters degree in

creative selections from designers, Debra the buyer

womenswear fashions design, part of which was at Bunk

keeps a keen eye for the latest new talent and is often the

University in Tokyo.

first store to buy their collections and they supports them through their careers. YBD is definitely the place to buy

I then went on to design textiles for Paul Smith, Bolongaro

your future vintage and archive special pieces!

Trevor, Matthew Williamson and Vilshenko before launching Klements in 2013.

Scoop in July is a summer show. Where will you be spending your summer holidays?

What inspires you when designing for your fashion label?

Luckily with trade shows coming up in Paris, New York and Texas we are planning some long weekends around

The natural world, in all its glory and brutality for the

these destinations! Then hopefully Veranasi in North

prints. For the womenswear garments I like to design

India later in the year for some serious soul, colour and

comfortable luxurious pieces that will stand the test

design inspiration.

of time. Describe your collection in three words… Ethical, Original, Artistic.


paul and joe sister • paulandjoe.com



primrose park • primrosepark.co.uk


hayley menzie • hayleymenzies.com


d e s i g n e r s s o c i e t y • d e s i g n e r s s o c i e t y. e s


ivy copenhagen • ivycopenhagen.com


Interview

GEMMA CRITCHLEY - FOUNDER OF CABINET JEWELLERY


Tell us about your collections?

challenges. The majority of my work takes place in the jewellery quarter in Birmingham where the production

We design collections for free spirited individuals

happens and I has worked with the same select group

who have an appreciation for handmade jewellery

since we formed the company in 2009.

and accessories, creating unique pieces that can be worn, defined and appreciated by its wearer however

You are showing at Scoop this July. What

they choose.

sets Scoop apart from other trade shows?

I love to create both delicate everyday pieces along with

I met Scoop’s founder, Karen, while we were showing in

the more striking and intricate designs in our collections.

Paris a few years ago and I loved her limitless enthusiasm

We have a really diverse collection and I try not to be

for seeking out unique designers, beautiful brands and

led by trends, to be honest I think that when it comes

collections. Scoop is a really unique show due to both its

to jewellery it’s such a personal choice, that anything

highly considered brand selection, location and Karen’s

goes. I love that everyone wears jewellery differently and

focused vision for a high quality show, that is executed

that it can be styled to suit the individual.

with such a strong emphasis on detail. Each season there is a theatre that surrounds the show and keeps it exciting

Can you tell me about your background?

and new, unlike so many of its competitors.

I have always been a creative individual and have

Do you have a favorite place to shop?

many artists, sculptor’s, painters and designers within my family, so I guess it’s in my blood. I studied at both

I love conceptual spaces from the smallest to big ones,

the Bournemouth Institute of art and design and the

here are a few of my fave stores that I feel do an incredible

Birmingham Institute of Art and Design specialising in

job at conveying their undeniable personalities. Comptoir

surface pattern design. I initially started my career in

concept store and health café in Dubai , its filled with

styling and trend prediction working on a free-lance

European brands and they also specialize in interiors –

basis, designing printed and embellished fabrics along

its laid back and beautiful in every way and the food

with designing and creating installations for retail spaces,

is amazing. Spell n Byron Bay, Sass and Bide and

both fashion and jewellery based. It was then while

Zimmermann , the Australians have got my vote when

helping to realise other people’s ideas that I decided that

it comes to style. I am desperate to visit General Store

I wanted to pursue my own creative vision.

in San Fransisco as it looks like a wonderland.

Describe your collection in 3 words…

Scoop in July is a summer show. Where will you be spending your summer holidays?

Stylised , timeless and wearable … I was born in the West Indies and I am completely Please explain your business structure

inspired by all things tropical so I am really excited to finally be launching a beautiful collection in an amazing

We are a small team and work in our beautiful new

concept store that is currently under construction. It will sit

studio in Devon. I still have total creative control and

within a stunning hotel on the island of Grand Cayman.

direction of our brand and like many artistic people,

I’m collaborating with an amazing British illustrator, who

I rarely switch off. I share a studio with my husband Rich

is going to be working on our branding and illustrations

who is an industrial designer and runs his own successful

for the collection, so I’m going head out there and

consultancy, he shares my passion for design and has

be inspired.

a great understanding for quality and production and is a great brainstormer when it comes to technical design


angela caputi giuggiÚ • angelacaputi.com


flamingos • flamingos.fr


sundress • sundress.fr


tandem • tandem.eu


maiyo • maiyo.co.uk



pili & kiki • piliandkiki.com



Interview

ERIK FRENKEN – FOUNDER OF FRENKEN


Tell us about your collections

You are showing at Scoop this July. What

and your role in the company?

sets Scoop apart from other trade shows?

My role in the company is creative director which

It seems to be one of the few international tradeshows

means that I am involved and responsible for the

that pays great attention to curating great brands with

brand. I control the image of the brand including the

vision on a contemporary and designer level. There are

collection, the philosophy, the marketing, the graphics

not many fairs left who follow this vision. I think this is

and all imagery.

what makes Scoop unique. It feels very personal and well considered and I am looking forward to working

What inspired you to create

together.

your fashion label? Do you have a favourite place to shop? I studied at Central Saint Martins in the UK. After that I worked at various labels including Alberta Ferretti

I love London a lot. It brings back so many amazing

and Viktor & Rolf where I was the head designer of

memories from the time I lived and studied there. I

womenswear. I was then Creative Director for Avelon

love Dover Street Market, Selfridges and of course the

for around eight years and later started my own label

great bookstores around Charing Cross Road. I also

under my own name. I like to take something classic,

love vintage shopping around London’s Brick Lane; it is

something that has a certain quality in itself. For

amazing! Harrods is something very special. The ground

example I’d take a good quality menswear blazer or

floor is truly unique.

a well-made classic trench coat, then re-design it with a modern attitude. I like garments that look very well

Scoop in July is a summer show. Where will

made and have an excellent quality. If I combine this

you be spending your summer holidays?

with a light conceptual attitude like reconstruction it gives the right attitude that I am looking for. 'I like to

I’m planning a laid back summer. Hopefully a relaxing

put things out of context'.

two weeks doing nothing but spend time with my family. I’d like to go to Bali or Mallorca. At the same time I’d

Describe your collection in three words…

like to find inspiration and also visit a city and go to somewhere that I have never been before… Beirut is top

Cool - creative - classics. Please explain your business structure We have a team in Portugal and a team in the Netherlands. In the Netherlands we design and develop the collection alongside managing the marketing and sales. Our team in The Netherlands is about four people full time and two freelancers. Production and finance happens in Portugal. At the moment we sell the collection worldwide to about 50 to 60 stores. We also have a standalone store in The Netherlands. My studio is also located behind the store.

of my list!



campomaggi • campomaggi.com



cécile boccara • cecileboccara.com


georg jensen • georgjensen.com



Interview

N I C H O L A S M A N V I L L E – S E N I O R V I C E P R E S I D E N T, D E S I G N AT G E O R G J E N S E N


What is the story behind Georg

Describe your collection in three words…

Jensen? How did it start? Scandinavian, organic, pure. The company started in 1904 when Georg Jensen, a goldsmith and ceramicist had earned enough prize

What has been company’s

money from recent exhibitions in Paris to open his own

biggest achievement?

business working with silver. It started as a workshop with a small display case in central Copenhagen and evolved

A legacy of iconic design that has become synonymous

quickly into an international business from there.

with Danish design throughout the world.

Describe the Georg Jensen brand ethos…

What is the secret to the company’s success?

Our Scandinavian roots are always at the forefront

We have stayed true to our company values and have

of everything we do. Since the beginning, we have

not been afraid to take design risks that have placed us

worked with silver and other metals in a unique way:

at the forefront of most major design movements for over

using the material to express a connection to the earth

a century. We have also been open to collaborations

and to capture a quality of light unique to Scandinavia.

since our founding. We have welcomed new designers

We have also remained focussed on the function of our

to the house over the years that have created healthy

pieces - beauty and design can only exist within the

creative tension.

context of function. What is the inspiration behind your latest When did you join Georg Jensen?

collection?

What is your background? For Halo, we were looking to return to Georg Jensen’s I joined the company three years ago but have been

roots in gold and a Scandinavian approach to it.

involved with the brand intermittently since the 1990’s.

We asked Sophie Bille Brahe to design a collection in Gold

I started my career in music but shifted to the world of

and diamonds with a lighter expression. For us, these

decorative arts in New York, designing products and

materials are to create a glow, aura of light rather than

interiors for Bergdorf Goodman, where Georg Jensen

a flash of intense light.

has been sold for decades. It has been a dream to be in the company itself and be able to guide its future as a key contributor to the design world.



Maison Ernest • maisonernest.com


p o l d e r • p o l d e r. f r


hosbjerg • hosbjerg.com


la condesa • lacondesa.es


katya katya • katyakatya.co.uk


klements • klements.co.uk



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