Scoop on Scoop: SS15 (issue 1)

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SCOOP ON SCOOP: WE TALK TO THE NAMES BEHIND THE LABELS TO WATCH

MANTERO: A PREVIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE MANTERO EXHIBITION AT THE PHILLIPS

SPOTLIGHT ON ART: CONTEMPORARY ART ALONGSIDE FASHION COLLECTIONS

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DISCOVER EMERGING AND ESTABLISHED DIRECTIONAL DESIGNERS AT SCOOP

Welcome to the eighth edition of Scoop, London’s most exciting and directional boutique fashion trade show.

On 13-15 July Scoop will take place within two beautiful London venues, the Phillips and Saatchi Gallery. Both galleries will be home to the most sought-after designer labels for S/S15, so make sure to plan your visit to the show and take the time to visit both venues. With more designers than ever you don’t want to miss out on the right labels for your store.

Set to be our biggest and best show yet, Scoop will be showcasing more than 400 collections representing the best in contemporary and premium womenswear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products. We are excited to feature an abundance of new faces to our line-up this season including H Shoes, La Paire, Ivories, Toby Mott, Ravinala, Jennifer de Bruyckère, Rew Clothing, Muubaa, Duffy and Madame Rêve alongside returning labels By Malina, Age of Reason, Village England, John & Pearl and many more.

Retaining the fusion of fashion and contemporary art for which the show is famed, Scoop’s handpicked edit will be curated around outstanding works of art, offering you a unique and bespoke environment to do all your new-season buying.

This July we celebrate the wonderful world of Mantero.

Get to know more about this hugely influential brand by visiting the Phillips, where an exclusive display of Mantero designs will adorn the walls of the gallery. This specially curated exhibition pays testament to Mantero’s unique partnerships and its contribution to fashion. Whilst at the Phillips make sure to see the exceptional works of art from emerging artists including art collective RexRomae and photographer Reg Fallah and then toast in the new season with a glass of champagne at the Scoop champagne bar.

C O V E R I M A G E : B R YA N H U Y N H | A G E N C Y: M B K L O N D O N

Finally, come and join us on Monday 14 July for French delicacies and treats, as the show takes on a French theme to celebrate Bastille Day. Make sure to register for your free ticket online at scoop-internaional.com Here’s to another successful buying season and I look forward to seeing you at Scoop.

Founder of Scoop International

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“To those who went before us, Q &A Toby Mott

CELEBRATING 112 YEARS: THE STORY OF SILK

Designer and Founder, Toby Mott ___ Q. Can you give me a bit of background about yourself and your journey into fashion?

A. I’m a British artist and punk historian. In the late 90s I was asked by fashion boutique The Cross to produce a line of clothing, which comprised of school detention lines on the latest T-shirt styles. It was an overnight success, which subsequently led to me expanding into the fashion world. My new vintage fashion collection is strongly inspired by my recent Punk art exhibitions.

This July, Scoop will be celebrating the world of Mantero. Phillips will be adorned with framed Mantero silks as well as an historic collection of scarves not seen in recent years. This exclusive curated display pays testament to the Italian company’s extraordinary craftsmanship and its undisputed contribution to the fashion industry. Scoop caught up with Managing Director, Franco Mantero, and Marketing & Product Development Manager, Lucia Mantero, to gain an insight into this iconic business.

Q. Your label has a huge celebrity following.

How did this happen so quickly?

A. The slogans themselves captured an era that inspired wearers to have a bit more fun with their clothing. Most people will remember Kate Moss wearing my ‘Painkiller’ design, Carrie Bradshaw in my ‘I have nothing to wear’ tee and Geri Halliwell famously sporting ‘Yoga Kills’. This combination led to my T-shirts selling out across the world and ultimately becoming coveted fashion items.

Q. What can we expect from your S/S 15 collection?

A. Utilising more innovated fabric and prints, very much inspired by my Punk art show in Berlin, along with different fits and styles.

New slogans will also be introduced such as “I must play harder” and “Treasure Chest”.

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

A. Quite simply Scoop is one of the most important shows on the fashion calendar and helps me showcase the entire range to a large number of elite buyers at one time.

Q. What are your plans for growth in the future? Do you have a particular market you would like to conquer?

A. I want to grow the brand and customer base, introducing the label to a new generation. I am considering expanding into new areas such as jeans and swimwear, so watch this space. ___

VINTAGE MANTERO - 1912

Mantero designs fabrics for some of the most important luxury fashion houses in the world. Founded in Como, in 1902, by Riccardo Mantero, the business has been family owned since its inception. Boasting more than one century of history and run, today, by the fourth generation along with other members of the Mantero family, it is a modern, integrated company, an undisputed leader in the creation, production and distribution of textiles for men and women.

So how has the company maintained its success for over a century? Franco believes it’s the company’s relationship with its customers. “Mantero has always stretched itself to the limit in order to offer each and every one of its clients bespoke, tailored designs. We have grown and developed by following the evolution of market trends without ever foregoing our high standards of ‘Made-in-Italy’ excellence.”

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and for those who are to come” Q &A Amy Paire

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Founder, La Paire ___ Q. How would you describe La Paire?

A. La Paire is a boutique shoe brand that specialises in handmade Spanish leather sandals. We focus on quality, comfort and design to create wearable and timeless styles that women want to wear. Our label not only reflects our passion for beautiful shoes but also for quality and superior craftsmanship.

Q. What led you to launch the label?

A. It was my inability to find comfortable stylish sandals. I believe that sandals can be as glamorous and dressy as high heels. Our collections are available all-year round, which not many brands are doing so this allows us to cater to summer holiday goers throughout the whole year.

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

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A. We are expanding our wholesale account and believe that showing at Scoop will help us with this as it attracts the type of buyers that we seek. Like Scoop, our brand is a boutique one so being showcased through an organisation that has the same values is an important factor.

Q. What are your key pieces for S/S 15?

A. Our T-bar sandal with geometric cutouts is one of our key pieces. The style comes in soft black suede with gold-flecked mesh and it’s a classic design. The other key piece is our gladiator-style sandal – it’s been given a feminine twist this season with the use of light-blue leather and an ankle-wrap strap.

Q. What inspires you?

A. I’m inspired by lots of things. Travel, my surroundings, art, an era, whatever captures my imagination. My own needs also play a part – I think of myself as my own customer and will look at what’s missing in the mix or what I can improve on.

  S/S15 COLLECTION

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As Creative Director, Lucia ensures that her team are always inspired and developing. “Our creative team are always updated on trends not only in the fashion and textile business, but they regularly go to art exhibitions, research trips and design trade fairs”. Lucia explains that the relationship with clients differ, depending on what they are looking for. “We can have clients who have a very clear idea on the designs they want and sometimes we have clients who come to visit our vast archive for inspiration. From there, they start to get ideas of what they want and we then work closely with our clients to develop the design from scratch, working with our internal designers and sometimes also designing by hand.” It’s no surprise then that Mantero works with some of the biggest and most well-known fashion houses in the world as well as brands including Kenzo, Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood and Ines de la Fressange.

The specially curated exhibition at Scoop will showcase a historic collection of the scarves and stoles of Mantero 1902, in addition to highlighting the new Mantero collection based on richness in terms of designs, colours and fabrics.

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Q &A Jane Lewis Creative Director, Goat ___ Q. How would you describe Goat?

A. Goat is synonymous with discreet understated luxury. Modern classics which are transitional, versatile and above all stylish. We strive to hone each design and shape to its very essence – with clean lines, great cuts and excellent fit.

MATTEO COZZA

Q. What led you to launch the label?

Founder, TRANSIT Par Such

A. I wanted to create a label that would deliver timeless classics that would become the building blocks of a successful wardrobe for any woman. Time and again I quote “simplicity is often the hardest thing to achieve”. This rings true to me today.

An inside Scoop with the founder of this established Italian label

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

A. Scoop is a unique environment in which to showcase our collection alongside really varied and interesting companies. It attracts a broad selection of industry players both domestic and international. Above all it has a lovely atmosphere.

Q. 0What are your key pieces for S/S 15?

A. Looser, fluid shapes such as the Wilder dress in our signature crepe with a great two tone detail, the Wonder shift dress which has a sporty twist to it and the introduction of our own silk print which we have put into separates.

TRANSIT Par Such is a family run business spanning more than three decades. Boasting a rich Italian heritage the label is run by the Cozza family with father Andrea at the helm. Matteo is the commercial and product manager, while his sister Anna works in production. This strength of working as a family is what makes this label so unique and successful.

Matteo’s father started the company in 1982 with one sewing machine and two workers. Step by step the company has grown into a thriving international fashion label which now employs more than 100 members of staff in Italy. TRANSIT Par Such has

Q. Which are your favourite retailers?

A. We have enjoyed a longstanding fantastic relationship with Matches and Fenwick (Bond Street). In addition we are currently stocked in some of the best regional boutiques across the country but are always looking to expand our distribution. There are some wonderful boutiques and stores within the UK and Europe whom we would love to introduce to our brand.

stayed true to its design ethos. “We have adopted the phrase ‘simplicity is complex’, Matteo explains. “The label’s core DNA hasn’t changed since its inception.

We still use a mixture of top raw material, soft colour and timeless designs, which ensure each piece in our collection is versatile and can be dressed up or down, depending on the wearer’s mood or occasion.”

hills of Veneto, it’s a 17th century farmhouse restored to its original splendour with complete respect for tradition. The house is located just 10 minutes from the company and the farm is an extension of the label and its history. As Matteo explains, “It represents where the label came from, who we are, where we are going and how we look. It’s a true Italian farmhouse, and we as a family have put a lot of work in restoring it. Its style and design ethos is very much like the TRANSIT Par Such label ‘simplicity is complex’. The farm covers a total surface area of 20 hectares, 8 of which are dedicated to horse breeding, 2 to olive groves and 10 dedicated to the production of local wine.

Everything is produced in the brand’s own facilities with every member of the team playing an important part in developing the label. Just a stone’s throw away from the facilities is the TRANSIT Farm, the last and final piece of the TRANSIT Par Such story. The farm represents the label’s idea of living. Nestled in the

So with its signature style, buyers can expect to see a strong S/S 15 collection of separates. Matteo says that the focus this summer is on structured materials, knits and fabrics. “The idea is to present an Artisan Collection, made to the highest specification to become wardrobe staples.”

Q. What inspires you?

I have a particular admiration for the sixties, I love the sensibility. The use of colour, the clean simple shapes, the strong aesthetic. ___

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Q &A Julie Macauley Designer and Founder, John & Pearl ___ Q. How would you describe John & Pearl?

Mirabel Edgedale

A. John & Pearl is a thoroughly modern international brand that embodies the British attitude to dressing with a street/luxe feel. I produce jewellery with focus on celebrating individuality whilst also selling products at a price point that appeals to a wide market of fashionable women of all ages.

Q. What led you to launch the label?

A. I wanted to create an accessory label with a fresh and innovative approach to design and a strong emphasis on quality and originality.

FASHION AGENT Q&A INTERVIEW

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

Mirabel Edgedale is one of the most established agents in the industry and is responsible for the rise of some of the most influential brands in fashion. Her network of contacts runs the gamut from luxury brand proprietors to Vogue editors and the best dressed celebrities.

Q. How did you get into the fashion sector?

I wasn’t classically good looking but I was able to wear clothes very well and I became a catwalk model in New York in the late 70s. I had to travel abroad and come back to get my work visa and managed to spend three months in Japan where I did the Christian Dior tour of the east. As I was able to speak French I became the person to promote and launch the show in every city. This naturally then led me into sales. I was happy to go from fitting model for Halston to wholesale on 7th Avenue.

Q. What made you launch your own agency?

Back in the UK I worked at Royal Appointed Bellville Sassoon, the British couture house famous for dressing royals and aristocrats. For five years I was involved with the buying and retail side as well as modelling for the house. I met Liza Bruce, and bought it for the shop. This led to my desire to branch out into fashion and sales of lines I believed in for myself and to establishing the worldwide distribution for Liza Bruce, leading to a great success. From there followed Moschino and then many more.

Q. What type of brands do you represent today?

I represent a number of brands. French label Plein Sud is a super slick daywear brand that fills all the gaps of what to wear day and evening. Emma Shipley is an amazing UK designer with the most innovative prints as well as UK label Saloni, which is great for separates and modern pieces. There are also a number of other brands that will be announced at Scoop which I am very excited about.

Q. How do you know which brands are right for certain retailers?

I believe this is a gut feeling and a matter of taste, something that comes with having been both in retail and wholesale. It is a bit like being a psychiatrist, you have to understand the culture of the customers of the shop.

Q. How involved do you get with your brands?

Usually the relationships are long and involved.

Often even like being their office abroad. The relationship with Missoni has been 17 years.

Q. How do you ensure there is no conflict of interest between the brands you represent?

A. Scoop is my first show of the season so it is here that I receive the first reaction to the collection from buyers and press. Scoop presents a fantastic opportunity for me to engage with buyers in a beautiful, creative environment.

Q. What are your key pieces for S/S 15?

A. Statement colour block necklaces and layered bracelets.

Q. Which are your favourite retailers?

A. Harvey Nichols is one of our key stockists and a favourite. They get it right every time when it comes to colour and product choices and present our collection beautifully. I also love The Shop at Bluebird, their store is fresh and contemporary and the brand mix is exciting and refreshing.

Q. What inspires you?

A. London life on a day-to-day basis, Instagram, colour, hardware and patterns in urban environments, craft and weaving techniques and vintage graphic design books.

I only take on brands that have their own identity and command a different customer or alternative for the same customer.

Q. You have showcased many of your labels at Scoop. Why is it an important show for you?

For the UK market Scoop is an essential show to launch S/S 15 to buyers. It is early enough that they can then decide to come to the showroom for follow up. As well as UK visitors it also attracts some of the most desired international buyers. The atmosphere and environment is the best showcase in London for showing and a pleasure to walk around. We are all today inspired by our senses, and this show brings out the desires. ___

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Art at Scoop FEATURED ARTISTS

S A AT C H I G A L L E RY This season’s show is set to be curated around the exhibition Pangaea: New Art from Africa and Latin America.

Selected pieces include art by Jose Carlos Martinat. The Peruvian artist’s work is at the interface of real and virtual worlds; his sources of inspiration are architecture and the urban environment, human and cyberspace memories. His multimedia installations and sculptures incorporate a diversity of materials and strategies to alter preconceptions in regard to where things belong, he brings imprints meant for the street to the gallery (artwork pictured).

PHILLIPS Scoop is famed for its unique concept of showcasing new season fashion collections alongside emerging and established contemporary art and this season visitors will be able to see and buy art by some of the industry’s most acclaimed artists at the Phillips.

REXROMAE

REG FALLAH

Don’t miss urban and contemporary art collective RexRomae at the Phillips. Comprising 12 emerging artists hailing from places as diverse as Puerto Rico and Norway, RexRomae replicates the ephemeral ethos of urban art. There is a huge buzz in the art world about RexRomae so catch them first at Scoop.

Swedish photographer Reg Fallah has a special interest in arts and crafts from around the world, and this season’s show will be home to his spectacular images of India, which he has been documenting for the last 20 years.

VENUES & TIMES:

Saatchi Gallery, King’s Road, London SW3 4RY | Phillips, Howick Place, London SW1P 1BB Sunday 13 July 10am - 6pm | Monday 14 July 9am - 6pm | Tuesday 15 July 9am - 5pm