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02 | FIRST WORD | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
Welcome to the Spring/Summer 2018 edition of Scoop on Scoop, where we bring you the latest news, exclusive interviews and a sneak preview of our upcoming show. Promising to be bigger and more exciting than ever before, this summer we’re thrilled to launch Scoop Salon. Our new gallery space, unique to Scoop, will showcase a wonderful mix of UK and international accessories from brands such as Auren, Charlotte’s Web, Sam Ubhi, Chupi and Karen Assaf to name a few. See pages 8 and 9 for a first glimpse of Scoop Salon. At Scoop we look to mentor designers, and this season we have collaborated with the Department for International Trade (DIT) to support a selection of emerging London-based designers. Featuring among others will be Rosie Kent jewellery, Rassin & Shen eyewear, Longstaff Longstaff loungewear and House of Spring shoes. See more on pages 22 and 23. This season, as always, a whole raft of up-and-coming designers will be making their Scoop debuts, namely Theo and Leah, D’Estree, Flowers for Zoe, Lamie, Colors of California, Horrockses, Ragyard, Tinsels and Morv, making this season’s line up an unmissable mix of creativity.
Not only is Scoop the perfect platform for discovering both UK and international emerging designers, we’re delighted to also welcome coveted collections from a host of established names including Cacharel, Ines de la Fressange, Hunter clothing, Joie, Lulu Guinness, Vivienne Westwood silks, 525 America, Kate Spade New York footwear and Duffy. See the back page of the magazine for a full list of designers showing at Scoop this season. Taking place at the prestigious Saatchi Gallery, our designer collections will once more be situated within a unique setting of spectacular art installations. Head to pages 4 and 5 for more information about this season’s exhibition; From Selfie to Self - Expression. Once again, I look forward to welcoming you to the Spring/Summer 2018 edition of Scoop. Wishing you a very successful buying season.
Founder & Managing Director Scoop International Fashion Shows
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Alison Jackson Royal Selfie (Remastered) 2016 C-Print Image courtesy of the Artist
04 | FROM SELFIE TO SELF-EXPRESSION | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
F R OM
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Retaining the fusion of fashion and contemporary art for which Scoop is famed, this season’s show will be a carefully curated edit of over 250 womenswear collections showcased around the Saatchi Gallery’s latest exhibition, From Selfie to Self-Expression. In partnership with Huawei, the world’s number three smartphone brand, From Selfie to Self-Expression will explore the history of the selfie from the old masters to the present day, and celebrate the truly creative potential of a form of expression often derided for its inanity. From Selfie to Self-Expression will include key artworks, many of which feature interactive, digital and usergenerated content by artists as diverse as Kutlug Ataman, Christopher Baker, Juno Calypso, Tracey Emin, Van Gogh, Mohau Modisakeng, Rembrandt, Cindy Sherman, Gavin Turk and Velazquez. Showing alongside examples of many influential artists’ work will be selfies that have quickly become icons of the digital era – from the beautiful and sublime to the mad, bad and downright dangerous.
FROM SELFIE TO SELF-EXPRESSION WILL BE OPEN DURING SCOOP FROM 16-18 JULY 2017.
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T O C E L E B R AT E T H E S A AT C H I G A L L E R Y ' S L AT E S T E X H I B I T I O N ; F R O M S E L F I E T O S E L F - E X P R E S S I O N , W E TA K E A L O O K AT S O M E O F T H E FA C E S B E H I N D T H I S S E A S O N ' S D E S I G N E R B R A N D S .
BR AND
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K WA N G W O O C H O I & S E O R Y U N G K A N G
10 | INSIDE SCOOP | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
What is the background story to your label? Our company CEO had been keen to discover and support new designers for a while, so decided to set up a brand made up of talented designers who were unique and completely new to the market. Our brand name Genuin Verk means genuine work, something we pride ourselves on producing 100% of the time. Due to this ethos, every season we keep things fresh at Genuin Verk by collaborating with new designers. Describe your brand in three words... Young, cool, brilliant What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Bright, cheerful and fun… like a summer rooftop party! Pink and lavender sunsets, dreamy music, cocktails with a cool, arty vibe. What is your favourite piece from your collection and why? The holographic pink enamel jacket. The material and colours are so captivating! The pattern on our deformed trousers is pretty interesting too. Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your designs? Jorja Smith, with her cool attitude towards fashion or the Korean girl group Black Pink. Their vibrant image is perfect for GENUIN VERK. Our campaign for this season is Scoop in the Summer. Where is your favourite place to holiday during the summer and why? The beach! Who can say no to the sea, the waves, the sunset and chilled music?! How do you relax when you’re not working? KC: I play games on my smartphone or snuggle up with my puppy. Somehow my dog has a healing power that helps me to relax. SK: I sleep!
What is the last book you read? KC: Third Humanity by Bernard Werber SK: The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? Jean Cocteau. The idea, the proportions and colour variations are so perfectly balanced. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? A random piece of graffiti writing I once saw which said, “You don’t know how beautiful you are”. It makes me feel good about myself. What is your go-to item of clothing you can’t live without? I always wear three old bracelets, a watch and an amber beaded necklace. It’s nothing fancy, it’s just something I always wear. Which singer/band/album are you currently listening to? SK: Kendrick Lamar, HONNE and Ed Sheeran. KC: Franz Ferdinand and CHVRCHES What's your guilty pleasure? KC: Drinking lots of coffee and eating anything sweet. SK: Shopping Why exhibit at Scoop? What sets it apart from other fashion trade shows? KC: Scoop has been recommended to us by lots of people. It’s so carefully organised for both buyers and designer brands and has a great, unique and artistic atmosphere. What has been your greatest achievement as a designer? The moment I sold and saw someone wear one of my dresses. I still can’t believe it!
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12 | THE POWER OF PINK | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
EMBRACE THE POWER OF PINK FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2018 AND REIGN SUPREME IN PRETTY HUES AND BLUSH TONES.
DES PETITS HAUTS
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TA L B O T R U N H O F
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B E AT R I C E B
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T H E H O O P S TAT I O N B Y G E O R G I A N A S C O T T
16 | THE POWER OF PINK | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
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HUDSON SHOES
18 | THE POWER OF PINK | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
DREAM’S CODE
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14 | BEHIND THE SCENES | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK
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CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK
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What is the background story to your label? D’ESTRËE was founded in 2015 by Géraldine Guyot, the designer at the origin of the brand, who studied at the renowned Central Saint Martins College in London. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? My latest inspiration came from the works of some of my favourite designers (Ettore Sottsass and Arne Jacobsen). Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your designs? I really like Camille Charriere's style. I could really see the Ettore bag on her. Our campaign for this season is Scoop in the Summer. Where is your favourite place to holiday during the summer and why? South of France for sure, Saint Tropez, it's where my family summer house is.
What is your go-to item of clothing/accessory you can’t live without? My Rachel Comey jeans. What's your guilty pleasure? Japanese Fraisier from Mori Yoshida Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? I really love Cindy Sherman and Christopher Wool’s works. Our hats are actually named after them. Why from totally Scoop
exhibit at Scoop? What sets it apart other fashion trade shows? I’ve been seduced by the gallery and the enthusiastic team.
Any exciting plans for the future? Launching our leather goods collection with our first pop-up store in Printemps Paris.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? To follow my intuition. SPRING/SUMMER 2018 | SCOOP TALKS | 21
T H I S S E A S O N S C O O P W I L L B E W O R K I N G I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H T H E D E PA R T M E N T F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L T R A D E A N D E R D F ’ S G L O B A L GROWTH PROJECT TO SUPPORT AND PROMOTE A HANDPICKED SELECTION OF EMERGING LONDON-BASED DESIGNERS
DREAM’S CODE
ROSIE KENT
L O N G S TA F F L O N G S TA F F
22 | NEW FACES | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
MANDKHAI
JETTI
HOUSE OF SPRING
RASSIN & SHEN
FLORENCE BRIDGE
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BOLD TONES AND CHARMING PRINTS W I T H A T O U C H O F FA I R G R O U N D F U N
H AY L E Y M E N Z I E S
H AY L E Y M E N Z I E S
What is the background story to your label? The collection started with a range of individual cashmere and vintage fur scarves/shawls/wrappers. I sold them in Portobello Market, and they soon became Notting Hill’s most sought after must-haves, starting an international trend. My collection and brand hasve continued to grow organically into an individual, and prestigious global knitwear brand with a subtle alchemy of leading edge fashion and timeless appeal. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Fairground Safari is bursting with charm and is inspired by a 1950’s fairground complete with magical flying zebras and candy cane stripes. What is your favourite piece from your collection and why? That’s a tough one. It’s like having to choose between your children! I LOVE the Candy Cane cardigan. It’s so much fun and ultra-useful. I know that I’m going to wear it to death and the few people who have seen it so far have wanted to steal it. Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your designs? I’m old school. I love Kate Moss, Anna Friel and Sienna Miller for their sense of fun and effortless style. I can see Kate in the Carousel Cardigan, absolutely. Our campaign for this season is Scoop in the Summer. Where is your favourite place to holiday during the summer and why? Im more of a winter holiday girl – I go to India for New Year. In the summer I go to Ibiza and have been holidaying there for over 20 years. How do you relax when you’re not working? Designers and entrepreneurs that get to
rest... pah, that’s a myth! I practice yoga frequently and go on a few retreats a year in India or Spain. But on the rare occasions I’m resting in London, I love mooching around Portobello. Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? I love the Pre-Raphaelites – Ophelia by Sir John Everett Millais is my all-time favourite painting. As a child, I would gaze up at the painting, lost in its beauty and tragedy. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? Not to do too much. To keep things simple. Of course, I went my own merry way and did everything. I’ve got a handle on that now and am super focused on my knits and it’s paying off. Why exhibit at Scoop? What sets it apart from other fashion trade shows? Karen’s curation is elegant and chic. The atmosphere is softly industrious. What has been your greatest achievement as a designer? Each season unravels further achievements – at the moment I’m buzzing to be represented by Ghiselli Diffusione in Milan. Daniele headhunted my brand a few months ago and opened eight new amazing accounts in less than a fortnight. He only helped launch Raff Simmons, Michael Kors and Mulberry. No big deal! Any exciting plans for the future? Yes! My collection is going to keep growing from accessories to RTW. I love how versatile knitwear is. Of course, my signature pieces are my blankets and ponchos, but I love the idea of knitted coats.
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H AY L E Y M E N Z I E S
ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ
30 | ORANGE IS THE NEW BLACK | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
E L E N A K A R AVA S I L I
SUN-DRENCHED SHADES TEAMED WITH THE RICHNESS OF A F L A M E - L I C K E D C O L O U R PA L E T T E .
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GENUIN VERK
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E M I LY L O V E L O C K
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E L E N A K A R AVA S I L I
What is the background story to your label? After graduating from Parsons and LCF I found my love for accessories. I really wanted to create something that exemplifies traditional leather craft in a modern way while referencing my cultural heritage. Having grown up in Athens and been infused with a classical design identity that can be seen in ancient Greek art I wanted to take this inspiration and make it fit into a contemporary product.
Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your designs? Its hard to choose. I love it when I see women wearing my products and transforming them to fit their style.
Describe your brand in three words... Minimal, Feminine & Discrete.
What is the last book you read? The latest book I read is Modern Romance by Aziz Ansari
What is your favourite piece from your collection and why? My favorite piece is the Ilisus cross body bag with the central piping panel. This piece fully reflects my aesthetic and the detailed craftsmanship required to create it.
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How do you relax when you’re not working? I relax by being outside, in Greece I usually got the beach and in London I love exploring new areas of the city.
Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? I love the work of Piet Mondrian, especially his "lozenge" paintings.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? It’s not just about the product but the story and lifestyle around it. Which singer/band/album are you currently listening to? The XX What has been your greatest achievement as a designer? I think my greatest achievement was designing a collection of marble bags, The Lithos Collection, for the Museum of Cycladic Art. Any exciting plans for the future? I am really excited about a project I have coming up, which is designing a range of leather goods for another exciting Greek brand. And of course growing and developing EK designs!
O R S A L I A PA R T H E N I S + PA R T H E N I S
Describe your brand in three words... Essential, ageless, unpretentious. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? The camouflaged body, such as the painted body of tribal initiation rituals, but decked to sustain contemporary life either at work or leisure. I believe that clothes must become one with the wearer, just like body paint, and should not be cast away that easily. Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? As a trained art historian of the formalist school I have never been able to admire art sentimentally and have always had a soft spot for old fashioned geometric abstraction such as Kasimir Malevich and Piet Mondrian.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? “Never forget who you are” It has helped me stay true to myself on a personal level while on a professional level it has helped me maintain my brand identity intact even though I represent the second generation. What is your go-to item of clothing you can’t live without? A jersey cotton pareo, usually with a print. It has many uses. It can be a beach towel, a turban, a great cover for nudism, a shade on the beach when used with a few dry bamboos, a baby bedsheet or sling. The colour cannot be anything but white.
What's your guilty pleasure? Ice cream. I was just in Florence and couldn’t get enough. Why exhibit at Scoop? What sets it apart from other fashion trade shows? First, the location which is iconic, and second because I understand that it chooses its participants for their unique characteristics and tries to showcase them as such. What has been your greatest achievement as a designer? Being a second-generation designer of a brand that has been around for 45 years I think I have achieved not only to stay true to its essence but to also stay current season after season.
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MR BOHO
36 | ON THE BEACH | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
F R O M C A L I F O R N I A C O O L T O PA R I S I A N CHIC, DISCOVER SCOOP’S BEACHWEAR EDIT AND BASK IN SUMMERTIME STYLE
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JOIE
38 | ON THE BEACH | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
TA J B Y S A B R I N A
JOIE
40 | INSIDE SCOOP | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
What is the background story to Joie? California cool mixed with perfect Parisian chic, Joie is always inspired by vintage details and far flung destinations. Joie is the epitome of permanent wanderlust. Describe the Joie label in three words... Effortless. Feminine. Chic. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Fall was inspired by my travels to Morocco. Our girl for the season was called the Accidental Tourist. In the collection you will see a lot of inspiration from her travels. You will see a lot of rug prints and tile prints infused with Joie’s effortless silhouettes. There are also a lot of transitional pieces that allow for layering up or down as the seasons change. Joie is worn by celebrities – any you would care to mention? To name just a few, recently Kate Bosworth, Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Garner, Jessica Alba, Kate Hudson, Emma Stone and Drew Barrymore have all been spotted in Joie. Our campaign for this season is Scoop in the Summer. Where is your favourite place to
holiday during the summer and why? Deia in Mallorca. It is exquisitely beautiful yet casual and low key. The city is still very chic and all about being on boats. The water is warm and amazing and the people are extremely nice. I am unfortunately not going to be there this summer, but I hope to go soon. How do you relax when you’re not working? I like to spend time at home with my family. My two sons are active so we do a lot of outdoor things, we do a lot of hikes and go to the beach as well. I also love going to the flea market. I do that pretty much every weekend. Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? Jasper Johns. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? Trust your instincts and stay true to yourself. What is your favourite piece from your collection you will be showing at Scoop? The Ardura dress as more of a resort piece, as well as the one shoulder cable knit Orella sweater.
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MKT STUDIO
F R O M VA R S I T Y M O T I F S A N D S TAT M E N T P R I N T S T O PAT R I O T I C PAT T E R N S AND COLOUR BLOCKING
42 | RED WHITE AND BLUE | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
S AV E M Y B A G
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TINSELS
44 | RED WHITE AND BLUE | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
CACHAREL
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INSANE IN THE RAIN
46 | INSIDE SCOOP | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
What is the background story to your label? Insane In The Rain is an environmentally conscious brand producing ecological rainwear. Our happy jackets are made from recycled plastic. In doing our thing, we keep a bit of plastic away from the dolphins. Our philosophy is that we make our own reality and that together we can make this a plastic free planet. Describe your brand in three Kindness. Togetherness. Awareness.
words...
What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Nature, the ocean, the planet & The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. What is your favourite piece from your collection and why? The Phoenix print Happy Jacket. Because it seriously makes you insanely happy as soon as you put it on. Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your designs? Everyone. Because everyone matters. Our campaign for this season is Scoop in the Summer. Where is your favourite place to holiday during the summer and why? Menorca. It’s a hidden secret of the med. The nature is plentiful, as are the hidden beaches with sparkling crystal clear ocean. The food is outstanding and there is nowhere in the world better to switch off and get lost in total disconnection.
How do you relax when you’re not working? I fly to wherever my girlfriends are. They are insanely cool babes and the perfect distraction. What is the last book you read? Plastic Free by Beth Terry. Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? Adeline De Monseignat. One of the most beautiful emerging artists of today. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? Do all things with love. Why exhibit at Scoop? What sets it apart from other fashion trade shows? Scoop is by far the most magical, energetic, creative fashion event in Europe. The vibe is awesome, the organization is faultless and the venue is spectacular. What has been your greatest achievement as a designer? Launching in Colette Paris and selling out within one week. Any exciting plans for the future? Saving the planet.
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INSANE IN THE RAIN
MILENA ZU
50 | MAKE A STATEMENT | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
FLOWERS FOR ZOE
TURN HEADS THIS SPRING/SUMMER WITH OVERSIZED ACCESSORIES AND SPLASHES OF COLOUR
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What is the background story to your label? Charli is a contemporary womenswear label with a long textiles history. We are an independent and family-run brand founded and based in London. Describe your brand in three words... Wearable, ageless and directional. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? This SS18 collection focuses on the understanding of what women instinctively feel good in. For us, the women who love our clothes are women who align with our values. Their style is guided by a respect for quality and considerate making. They value understatement and simplicity of experience; from the places they visit, to the food they eat, to the cultures they enjoy. The more you know the people you’re dressing, the more you relate to the people you’re dressing. What is your favourite piece from your collection and why? Our Toulon cotton knit is probably one of my favourite items. The style is easy and cool for spring through to summer and encompasses our direction for the season to combine and contrast modern clean sartorial with femininity. Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your designs? Sienna Miller. Our campaign for this season is Scoop in the Summer. Where is your favourite place to holiday during the summer and why? I love visiting the South of France, in particular Antibes, Cap Ferrat and Cannes. It’s so close by and I can squeeze in long weekends when I can. It can be difficult to
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spend too much time away over the summer so the South of France is perfect for sunny lazy weekends away with my family and friends. How do you relax when you’re not working? I have a wonderful friend who is also a yoga teacher and she has taught me how to meditate. She practises Ashtanga yoga as well, which I’m starting to really enjoy. I wish I had discovered it years ago! Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Scoop is a fusion of fashion and art. Who is your favourite artist? I recently visited the Uffizi Gallery in Florence and took a particular liking to the Renaissance Period. Michelangelo is of course my favourite of that period. Though I also appreciate contemporary art as it provides an opportunity to reflect on issues relevant to our world today. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? Growth and comfort never coexist. Why exhibit at Scoop? What sets it apart from other fashion trade shows? Scoop is the only show in London that really showcases a variety of interesting and relevant brands to independent and specialty stores. It is a show that has really evolved and moved with the changing times. The curation of the show is always so well thought out and it has a lot of personality, too, which makes it a more worthwhile experience for both buyers and brands. Any exciting plans for the future? Further international expansion is on the cards. We have an exciting new project lined up with a leading Japanese department store in September.
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E L E N A K A R AVA S I L I
FROM COOL AND CONTEMPORARY TO BEAUTIFUL AND BOLD
54 | COLOUR POP | SPRING/SUMMER 2018
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E M I LY L O V E L O C K
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LAMIE
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ANGELA CAPUTI
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R A G YA R D
SHOW DATES 16 – 18 July 2017
OPENING HOURS 9.30am – 6pm Sunday 9.30am – 6pm Monday 9.30am – 4pm Tuesday
ADDRESS Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, London, SW3 4RY
BUS 11, 19, 22, 49, 211, 319 (King’s Road). 11, 137, 211 (Lower Sloane Street).
TRAIN The nearest mainline railway station is Victoria. It is a 10 – 12 minute walk from the gallery.
TUBE The Saatchi Gallery is a 3 – 4 minute walk from Sloane Square Underground (District and Circle lines) and a 10 – 12 minute walk from Victoria (Victoria, District and Circle lines).
HOTEL To help you plan your visit to Scoop, we have handpicked a selection of hotels located near to the Saatchi Gallery. Our selection of hotels have all been personally reviewed. Visit www.scoop-international.com for exclusive rates and updates to help you get the very best out of the show!
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