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SC O O P O N SC O O P : NEW FACES TO WATCH THIS SEASON
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S C O O P L O VE S : A PROFILE OF SOME OF THE DESIGNERS AT SCOOP THIS FEBRUARY
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A N INS ID E S CO O P: WI TH TH E C O- FOUND E R AND D I RE C TOR OF PALLAD I O
WEL C OM E
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very warm welcome to the ninth edition of Scoop, Europe’s most directional boutique fashion trade show. On Sunday 1st February to Tuesday 3rd February 2015, Scoop will take place within beautiful gallery surroundings which will be home to the most sought-after designer labels for Autumn/Winter 2015. With more designers and interesting collections than ever, you don’t want to miss out on the right labels for your store. Set to be our most exciting show yet, Scoop will be showcasing collections representing the best in contemporary designer apparel, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products. Retaining the fusion of fashion and contemporary art for which the event is famed, Scoop’s hand-picked edit will be showcased around outstanding works of art, offering you a unique and bespoke environment to do all your new-season buying. To help plan your trip we have personally visited and reviewed some of the London hotels near to the show and are delighted to have negotiated special rates. We are conveniently located near to a number of mainline stations. Further information about travel and hotels can be found on our website www.scoop-international.com Here’s to another successful buying season and I look forward to seeing you at this exciting edition of Scoop.
Founder of Scoop International
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MERCAN TIA
PAU L & JOE SIS TER INDI & COLD
BRUTA
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PAUL & JOE SISTER MERCANTIA INDI & COLD
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S C OOP ON S C OO P I N T E R V I E W W I T H K A R E N R A D L E Y, T H E F O U N D E R O F S C O O P
Q. This February’s show marks four years since the launch of Scoop at the Saatchi Gallery. How has the show changed over that time?
A. The first edition of Scoop featured just 45 collections, and they all understood the concept and loved the venue – not every company I approached initially was ready to invest time and money in a debut show. Today we’re in the very fortunate position of often having more labels interested in taking part than we can accommodate – which of course brings its own problems too! So obviously the size of the show and the variety of collections taking part has grown significantly, but that original concept our very first exhibitors bought into hasn’t changed at all. Scoop will always be a carefully curated selection of the best directional and contemporary collections.
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Q. It must be a challenge to curate the show without knowing from the start which exhibition will be in situ during the event?
A. It is most certainly a challenge! Because of how the Saatchi Gallery works there’s only been one instance where we’ve known how an exhibition was going to be staged more than a couple of months in advance, and every new show works differently. But that’s the beauty of Scoop and the Saatchi Gallery, as each season is new and different. The Post Pop exhibition: East meets West running during our next show in February will completely transform the space and offer a completely different experience for both our exhibitors and visitors. Q. Where do you look for inspiration when planning the look or theme of a new season’s show?
A. I take inspiration from a whole range of sources. New season’s fashion trends always play a part of course, but I look to new ideas in interiors, fragrances, florals – all of the elements which go to make up the Scoop show. Perhaps my biggest inspiration though is the art we have in situ at the Saatchi, which ensures that I’m looking at the show from a different creative perspective each season. Q. Scoop has become known for always featuring new collections each season. Which labels are you most excited about seeing at the February 2015 show?
A. We have so many wonderful new designers on-board for the February edition it is difficult to choose! But Bruta, Elvine, Warm Me, Mercantia, J Lindeberg, Cutuli Cult and Agnelle are just some of the many designers I am thrilled to be welcoming to Scoop next season. Q. What advice would you give to a buyer visiting Scoop for the first time?
A. Make sure that you give yourself enough time to see everything! We all know that time is a precious commodity, but Scoop is about finding something new, innovative and exciting for your store and you don’t want to miss even that one label which could make all the difference. I’d say allow two days to see the whole show, give yourself the time to think about what you’ve seen, and the opportunity to go back to a collection and find out more. I promise you won’t be disappointed. Q. What’s the story behind the photograph?
A. I am surrounded by my boys. I have got to have some fun time too at Scoop! Seriously though, this was a picture taken by the Spanish magazine Mujer Hoy for a marvellous feature they ran on the show earlier this year. The ‘boys’ are a great team of guys who now work with us every season, welcoming the buyers, helping them find their way around the show, and of course adding some fun. It’s all part of the Scoop experience.
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Q&A EMMA GUSHLOW K AT R I N A C O L E Designer and Founder, Gushlow and Cole ___ Q. How would you describe Gushlow and Cole
A. Gushlow and Cole is a luxury British brand specialising in shearling outerwear and accessories made exclusively in the UK
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Q. How did you and Emma meet?
A. Emma and I have been childhood friends since the age of 4 and have been through every school, life and ‘fashion’ experience together ever since! We are like an old married couple!
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Q. What is your fashion background?
A. We built a creative partnership together after graduating from London College of Fashion and gained our experience in shearling manufacture with my father who had been specialising in shearling for over 40 years.
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Q. What led you both to launch the label?
A. Working at the factory, and being resourceful and poor graduates, we used the off cuts from the floor and developed accessories and home-ware to sell at East London’s Spitalfields market. As Spitalfields was such a creative hub at the time, we soon got noticed by designers, store buyers and even trade shows, which led us to show our first range of luxury accessories in London, followed by ready to wear during Paris Fashion Week in 2003. Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?
A. Being a truly British brand, it is important for us to showcase our collection in the UK. We have had much success with our export market, but have struggled to find the correct premium environment, with an attractive mix of brands in the UK. Scoop offers exactly this and therefore the opportunity to open up our brand to the UK market, which by the way is working exceedingly well! Q. Who are your favourite stockists?
A. Our favourite stockists are Arnotts, Dublin’s oldest department store, it’s always a real pleasure to see their buyers and Pauw Amsterdam for the quality of product and design. We have adored Liberty’s in London since our early teens, and would love to see our collection there.
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Q&A TA N I A L A U R I E Designer and Founder, Tania Cashmere ___
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Q. Can you give me a bit of background about yourself and your journey into fashion?
A. I’m a British artist and punk historian. In the late 90s I was asked by fashion boutique The Cross to produce a line of clothing, which comprised of school detention lines on the latest T-shirt styles. It was an overnight success, which subsequently led to me expanding into the fashion world. My new vintage fashion collection is strongly inspired by my recent punk art exhibitions.
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Q. Your label has a huge celebrity following. How did this happen so quickly?
A. The slogans themselves captured an era that inspired wearers to have a bit more fun with their clothing. Most people will remember Kate Moss wearing my ‘Painkiller’ design, Carrie Bradshaw in my ‘I have nothing to wear’ tee and Geri Halliwell famously sporting ‘Yoga Kills’. This combination led to my T-shirts selling out across the world and ultimately becoming coveted fashion items. Q. What can we expect from your forthcoming collection?
A. Utilising more innovated fabric and prints, very much inspired by my punk art show in Berlin, along with different fits and styles. New slogans will also be introduced such as “I must play harder” and “Treasure Chest”. Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?
A. Quite simply Scoop is one of the most important shows on the fashion calendar and helps me showcase the entire range to a large number of elite buyers at one time. Q. What are your plans for growth in the future? Do you have a particular market you would like to conquer?
A. I want to grow the brand and customer base, introducing the label to a new generation. I am considering expanding into new areas such as jeans and swimwear, so watch this space.
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F I N A L W O R D
Ian Campbell-Smith I N T E R V I E W W I T H T H E C O - F O U N D E R & D I R E C T O R O F PA L L A D I O A S S O C I AT E S , O N E O F T H E U K ’ S L E A D I N G FA S H I O N A G E N C I E S
Q. How did you get into the fashion sector?
A. I started work folding sweaters in Benetton when I was 18. I was so happy; Benetton was the coolest place to shop in my local town at that time, so I loved my job. Q. What made both you and your business partner Shaun start your own fashion agency?
Q. Can you recall some of the first designers you both represented?
We represented Ally Capellino, Artwork sweaters (who pioneered the use of denim yarn in knitwear) and John Rocha.
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A. A family business with a great service ethic. Q. How do you know which labels are right for the UK market?
A. We both listen to what our customers are looking for and also work on instinct when bringing on new brands. Q. How involved do you both get with your brands?
A. We had both been working for British designers in the late 1980s (Sara Sturgeon/Ally Capellino) and I was travelling between Hong Kong, Los Angeles, New York and London, and could see the growth of contemporary brands. We thought there was a gap in the market for an agency to offer something different that was not so branded and that would appeal to younger customers. We opened our doors in 1990.
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Samra shoes from New York). Then we try and add complete total look collections from brands that have their own DNA. Hopefully it works!
Q. How would you describe your agency?
A. That depends. With some of our brands we work really quite closely with the designers at the planning stages and we have a big say over what is brought to market, with other brands that is not the case. There is always a feeling of great expectation when the cardboard boxes with the new collection inside are opened up before the sales campaign starts. Q. How do you ensure there is no conflict of interest between the designers you represent?
Q. Palladio has supported Scoop since it launched in February 2011 and has showcased many of your collections at the show. Why is Scoop an important exhibition for you?
A. Scoop is the event we most look forward to in our sales season; it is the party you cannot wait to go to. It is slickly produced, exceptionally well curated, well attended by a great mix of buyers and it is held within beautiful surroundings. Q. What is the secret of your successful agency?
A. There are no secrets. We try and give the best service we possibly can and at the same time be as helpful and honest with our customers. We look to build long term relationships with the retailers we work with. And have some fun along the way.
A. We look for category businesses that buyers would naturally buy together (like our premium denim line DL, our Rails shirts from LA and our Yosi
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