Scratch Magazine July 2021

Page 1


AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT

Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect


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Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168095-1 HM-12276-1

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VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE STYLES & PRODUCTS! Georgie Smedley Group Phone: 01708 465900 www.gsgroupuk.com | Email: info@gsgroupuk.com LONDON, HERTS & ESSEX 0800 014 8313 IRELAND 00353 1 4295122 Made in the USA © 2021 Naill Alliance, Inc.

HM-12488

SOUTH WEST UK 01300 348645

gsgroupuk.com


Eighteen years of... ®

Issue 219 Editor-in-chief Alex Fox alex.fox@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Kat Hill kat.hill@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jesswilkie17@yahoo.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000

for a mood and sunshine can do of ot sp a mini at t’s amazing wh s just enjoyed a write, the UK ha I as e sun d, th an t ou lity a menta igorating ab something so inv s toes come e’ s’ er nt Th ie . cl ve as wa s heat esses, it’s a bonu sin bu ga il kin na r ar fo shining and, s – hopefully sp and into sandal s ck so e id ins out from atments. booking pedi tre surge in clients oks aren’t appointment bo nding that their fi ll sti s ment trends se at es tre sin on With many bu nt to capitalise rta po im it’s l – can ic, ndem nail professiona as full as pre-pa that only you – the re ments ca r ail fo d an ed ne ns al nail conditio and promote a rk, unded up natur wo ro to ’ve n tur We re ly. er the provide prop monplace since m co e or re m ca en me ev or neglecting that have beco at care at home trying their hand eenies and white gr to r ise owing to clients nit for hydrated by sa de ils na m Fro d with next steps r. re altogethe conditions cove on m m co se t the spots – we’ve go page 42. treatment from next day to plan your thin your working wi ve on as ha u se y yo e nn tim range for this su Utilise any spare vamp your retail tition, re pe n m ca co u il yo na ps ic ph moves; perha annual photogra some ept for Scratch’s to take a look at nt wa or think of a conc u yo e yb Ma t. tips to Ou t on oo e Sh tic h s issue and prac The Great Scratc ! p-by-steps in thi ile ste sm d a an th ns wi sig it’s of the nail de u do – we hope yo er ev at Wh clients? show off to your Scratch ly nail faces at the eing some friend se t to be to se d e ar ar rw s fo ion g We’re lookin days after restrict six ; on nd Lo inment, in July her, full of enterta Stars Party on 25 imate get-toget ult time in the rst fi be l the It’l r . lifted in England pals in person fo il na ur yo e se chance to rty by visiting cocktails and a y tickets to the pa e and join us! Bu m re Co he e. an tim sc g a lon rite.co.uk or arty2021.eventb www.scratchstarsp

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ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Kishon Mather, Liza Smith, Marian Neman BEM, Chan Vermont, Dave Heffernan, Katie Barnes, Maddie Regan, Ria-Jaine Lincoln, Genki Itou, Sam Biddle Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer Warners Midlands PLC Printers Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Images courtesy of Mii Shades shown are Coral Beach, Positively Playful, Red Devil and Snowcloud. Available via www.miicosmetics.com

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription? Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

COVER CREDITS Image courtesy of Mii showcasing shades from the Mii nailcare range, available via www.miicosmetics.com Photographer: Kellie French Creative direction: Kellie French & Paul Gerra

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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Contents JULY 2021

FEATURES 22 Colour & Confidence

A new nail brand has landed & is making a splash on this month’s front cover. Check out the range from Mii…

26 Raising Standards At The Nail Bar

The National Occupational Standards for nails have been reviewed; discover what this means

30 10 Ways To Upgrade Your Mani & Pedi Services

Add an element of luxury to your nail treatments with profit-inducing product picks & upgrades

34 Challenge ➟ Manage

Check out specific challenges brought on by the pandemic & how techs have worked to overcome them

42 Nail Nurture

74

86

Maintain & support natural nail health with a focus on common issues & how to tackle them appropriately

60 At Your Service

Nail & beauty supply business, Salonserve, has had a revamp! Discover how it can support your work needs…

64 The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Nail Your Entry!

Are you keen to submit an entry to this year’s photographic nail comp? Scratch serves up top tips…

68 Best Friends In Business

Dynamic nail duos & teams in the sector share the secret to a successful personal/professional partnership

72 The Life Of A Nail Salon Apprentice

A nail tech apprentice shares her training journey & what she loves about the hands-on approach to learning

86 Aiming For Excellence

Multi award-winning nail tech, Paulina Zdrada, unveils her new education organisation & tool range

90 Home Sweet Salon

Practical pointers to note if you’re considering setting up a nail space at home or in your garden

42

REGULARS 10 18 28 32 38 40 50 52 59 62 66 70 74 76 78 80 82 84 96 98

Nail Nation The Hot List Scratch Stats Nailscopes The Force Of The Feds International Nail Spy Readers Gallery Getting Down To Business Through The Keyhole Mindful Matters Grow & Glow With Maddie Industry Initiative Step-by-Ste p Beauty In Numbers Tech Talk Pro-DIY The Clawgasmic Effect Business Matters Nail Clippings Fingernails in Focus


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All NSI products are developed and manufactured by our own chemists in our own facility in the USA. Thoroughly tested products with SDS sheets available at any time. NSI products are never tested on animals and never will be. Supplying UK nail professionals since 1992. Providing Excellence in Education at every stage of your career.

Quote code: 12OFF or enter it at the online checkout. Easy ordering: Online at nsinails.co.uk or freephone 0800 881 8469 Share your creations #nsinails #nsiuk

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Nail NATION

business

news & views By Team Scratch

Hair & beauty start-ups set to create more than 1,700 jobs A quarter of pandemic-time hair and beauty treatment start-up owners are planning to hire one or more employees, creating more than 1,700 new beauty sector jobs in the coming months and years. Research by The Accountancy Partnership revealed that although many lockdown businesses were born out of necessity, the majority of pandemic entrepreneurs have exciting long-term growth plans, indicating the value that the record number of new businesses will add to the industry. Lee Murphy, MD of The Accountancy Partnership comments: “Small businesses truly are the foundations of the British economy and seeing so many businesses started during lockdown, often out of necessity, with long-term growth and hiring plans is fantastic. “Almost half (46%) of lockdown-preneurs have always wanted to start their own businesses and with so many passionate people behind these ventures I am optimistic that we will see some excellent businesses supporting the wider business economy in the coming years.” www.theaccountancy.co.uk

Oh Hello Beauty campaign hopes to encourage more clients to visit salons The British Beauty Council has launched the ‘Oh Hello Beauty’ campaign to encourage people to return to hair and beauty salons following the pandemic. Since March last year, more than 7,000 salons in the UK have gone out of business owing to forced closures and inadequate support, and The British Beauty Council fears more businesses will suffer the same fate unless people start returning for treatments. While salons in England were able to reopen on 12 April 2021, they continue to run at 30% less capacity due to Covid-19 restrictions, resulting in more than three million fewer appointments than there would have been in usual times. “We need to support the high street and city centre premises-based businesses,” comments Millie Kendall, chief executive of the British Beauty Council. “The personal care sector has not only struggled with the many months of closure and the on-going costs related to keeping their businesses alive – they are also not yet seeing the numbers of clients coming back to salons and stores that they had pre-Covid. “We need to bring the joy back to beauty by encouraging clients to come back to experience the array of services we offer – most of these require immense skill and can’t always be replicated at home.” The UK beauty industry contributes more than £30 Scan here to billion a year to the UK economy, employing more get involved: than 600,000 people of which more than 80% are women. Salons, stores and experts can get involved on social media and by placing the campaign’s poster in their window. www.britishbeautycouncil.com

OPI partners with the Green Salon Collective OPI has partnered with the Green Salon Collective, an environmental disposal service for salon waste. The move is part of Wella Company’s (OPI’s parent company) ongoing commitment to sustainability. “It is our responsibility to help our consumers and salon partners make a positive impact on the planet,” states Belinda Price, OPI education manager UK & Ireland. “This partnership will be a game changer for the nail industry and OPI, enabling salons to become Belinda Price more environmentally conscious.” Much of the waste produced by nail salons can be difficult to recycle, with many throwing away foil wraps, plastics, files, PPE and more to landfill. OPI and the Green Salon Collective together will offer education to salons and their teams on sustainability and help them implement systems to ensure they recycle all of their salon waste, to become zero waste to landfill. www.opiuk.com / www.greensaloncollective.com

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK


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business

Nail NATION SWEET SQUARED UNVEILS LE ZIPPY & E-FILE & EDUCATION To coincide with the launch of the Light Elegance Zippy Gen2 e-file, Sweet Squared has revealed that it will be hosting e-file education at its multiple training centres later this year. “E-filing is an amazing skill to speed up your services and enhance your business,” says Sweet Squared co-founder, Samantha Sweet. “We have been working really hard over these past few years to bring the best possible e-filing education to our pros to ensure safe and professional use and we’re so excited to finally be able to welcome everyone on their e-file journey.” ‘Master The Zippy’ e-file in-classroom education will be able to book in the coming months. Students will receive a Light Elegance Zippy Gen2 e-file on the day of the course and will learn everything from how to use the Zippy and Z-Bits safely to the technical aspects of the Zippy. Students who book onto this course must already hold an enhancement certificate. For Sweet Squared education info, visit my.sweetsquared.com

Nail Knowledge programme endorsed by Habia The Nail Knowledge diploma has achieved CPD Endorsed Provider status from Habia (Hair and Beauty Industry Authority Authority). “It’s really important that this education platform has been acknowledged Marian Newman by an organisation such as Habia,” enthuses Marian Newman BEM, Nail Knowledge expert educator. Habia is recognised by government as the standard setting body (SSB) for the hair, beauty, nails, spa and aesthetic sectors Joan Scott and its criteria for providing their various status titles within education is rigorous. An application goes through a long and thorough investigation. “Habia is delighted to endorse Marian’s Nail Knowledge training platform, its information reflects the NOS, is fact-based and follows the science,” comments Joan Scott, chair of Habia.“It is a fantastic resource for the whole industry; students as well as experienced professionals will enjoy studying on the platform and it brings further depth and detail to nail education, which in turn helps raise standards and ensures services are safe for clients, enhancing the overall reputation of the nail industry.” www.nailknowledge.org www.habia.org

Nail tech named in BABTAC ambassador programme

Liz McKeon

The International Salon Business School launches to support business owners & staff

Salon business expert, Liz McKeon, has launched The International Salon Business School, with a curriculum featuring programmes for salon business owners, managers and teams in live training format, as well as virtual assisted courses, self-paced certified virtual courses and training products. The International Salon Business School offers: • Staff training: How to double your retail sales, rebooking and referrals within 30 days. • Manager training: Elevate your management and leadership skills for success. • Salon business academy: Self-paced learning via video content to continually improve business management and action. • VIP owners coaching programme: This eight-day coaching programme has been developed to assist salon owners to scale up, reach full potential, improve work/life balance and increase personal income. • Virtual programmes: This series of live webinars includes Revive Your Business (1.5 hours) and Business Planning For Success (half day). • Business growth club: Five-week accelerator programme for salon business owners that will include cutting-edge business builder content along with group mentoring and accountability. www.lizmckeon.com 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (BABTAC) has launched its ambassador programme featuring selected nail techs, beauty therapists, facialists and salon owners from across the UK. A spokesperson from BABTAC comments: “This influential team will support our overarching objective – promoting the very best standards within the industry – while advocating important messages through their own peer to peer channels to further the exposure of essential campaigns, such as #MakeBeautySafe.” This year’s BABTAC ambassadors are: • Metta Francis aka Nails by Mets, award-winning nail technician and session manicurist – London • Justine Mitchell, salon owner and business expert – Edinburgh • Andy Millward, advanced facialist – Birmingham • Lola Kenyon, founder of Beauty by Lola, beauty therapist and lash, brow and nail technician – Huddersfield • Katie Millington, award-winning salon owner and ecoconscious business owner – Cheadle, Greater Manchester • Katie White, founder of re:lax Skin Studio – London Of the appointment, Metta Francis comments: “I am incredibly honoured to be named as one of BABTAC’s ambassadors, amongst a line-up of incredible industry professionals. I cannot wait to get stuck into this role, helping to raise standards within the industry. “Never has it been more important for industry pros to have professional membership and support – BABTAC provides this and so much more!” www.babtac.com


Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® are excited to introduce the Feel The Vibes Collection. This bright, fun collection is all about making the most of the summer season. Filled with eyecatching shades, the Feel The Vibes collection is perfect for statement making manicures and pedicures.

MODEL IS WEARING: SPIN ME AROUND

ALL DAY, ALL NIGHT

SPIN ME AROUND

INTO THE LIME-LIGHT

ORANGE CRUSH BLUSH

IT’S MY MOMENT

KEEPIN’ IT COOL

Georgie Smedley Group Phone: 01708 465900 www.gsgroupuk.com | Email: info@gsgroupuk.com LONDON, HERTS & ESSEX 0800 014 8313 IRELAND 00353 1 4295122 Made in the USA © 2021 Naill Alliance, Inc.

HM-13745

SOUTH WEST UK 01300 348645

gsgroupuk.com


pleasure

Nail NATION CORONATION STREET ACTRESS TURNS TO NAIL TEKKING

Kick-start GelColor services with starter kit package OPI has unveiled its first GelColor Starter Kit, which contains product to perform up to 100 services. Featuring 10 of the brand’s best-selling essentials, it has been designed to ensure a successful start to your GelColor gel polish services and features: • Pro Spa Cuticle Oil • Bond Aid • NAS 99 • Expert Touch • GelColor New Stay Classic base coat • GelColor New Stay Shiny top coat • GelColor’s four best-selling, iconic shades: Big Apple Red, Strawberry Margarita, Bubble Bath & Funny Bunny. OPI GelColor boasts a shiny finish that is chip-resistant for three weeks. It cures in 30 seconds under OPI’s LED lamp. A spokesperson for the brand comments: “For just £99 + VAT, you can generate £3000 in service revenue (based on a £30 service). This is a 30% saving on buying items separately.” The OPI GelColor Kit is available via www.opiuk.com, Salons Direct, Ellisons and Capital Hair & Beauty.

After starring in Coronation Street for five years as Katy Armstrong, Georgia May Foote has made the move from the cobbles to the salon after qualifying as a nail technician in May. Georgia trained at Bace Academy in Manchester, completing a gel polish and an L&P acrylic course. “I have always loved having my nails done. For years I have watched meticulously how the nail tech has done my nails and have always walked away wishing I could do them,” Georgie reveals. “I am a very creative individual and felt like this was something that I could really put my all in to. “I think patience is something we learn a lot of as actors and that is definitely needed in the nail industry. Also, we are really good at socialising with people. However, trying to socialise and concentrate intensely is something I have found a challenge! But I believe every challenge can be overcome with practice.” Georgia works from Beaut salon in Whitefield, Manchester, of which she was a regular client. Georgia is honoured to be joining the team, which is also owned by the founder of the academy at which she trained. “I think working as a nail technician is perfect for me alongside my acting career as I have learnt a skill I can use forever. It will fit in perfectly around acting jobs and it keeps those creative juices going which I think is really important!” @gmfnails

West Suffolk College becomes Lecenté’s flagship centre for learning West Suffolk College has been revealed as flagship college for the Lecenté brand and is the only FE college in East Anglia to add Levels 2 & 3 Nail Technology to its syllabus. Lecenté’s head of education, Theresa Foddering, comments: “The new nail classroom will be kitted out floor to ceiling in all things Lecenté, offering a ‘real’ environment for the students to prepare them for salon life. All students will be provided with Lecenté kits to complete their courses. “I am beyond honoured that the college took every piece of advice and support in order to offer a truly exceptional standard of education for the students, and it is the first college in the UK to include the Nail Knowledge diploma into their courses as standard. “Additional units have also been added to ensure a superior level of professional graduates from the college, greatly increasing the employability of the student. Owing to my relationship and affiliation with the college, students will be able to receive additional education from myself and the Lecenté team of educators, from nail art to competition work and business mentoring.” www.lecente.com / www.wsc.ac.uk 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

MAP OUT NAIL DESIGNS WITH HANDY NAIL-IT NOTEPADS OMY etc, the sister store of OMY Nails, has launched Nail-Its to help you exercise your creativity and plan nail designs. Nail-Its are nail art template sticky notes designed with the organised, creative nail technician in mind. Plan ahead for a client or display on your wall to inspire your designs or your client’s choices. With both left and right hand options, you can name your creations, tag yourself and date them. There is also space to add colour samples for you to easily remember which shades to use when it comes to bringing the design to life. www.omyetc.co.uk


THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE REVEALS CLOTHING RANGE TO SUPPORT MENTAL HEALTH AWARENESS

5 - 1 2Y JUL

TCH SCRA P SNA

Suicide prevention charity, The Lions Barber Collective, has launched Collective Roar Materials; a 100% non-profit clothing brand designed to be worn as a symbol of support for those suffering with their mental health. Founder, Tom Chapman, and his client, clothing Tom Chapman entrepreneur & screen printer Paul Richardson, created the brand with the aim to help inspire others to support the initiative and ‘wear their mind on their sleeve’. The Roar Materials t-shirts have the words ‘your mind’ subtly embroidered on the sleeve, enabling wearers to show that they support, have suffered or lost someone to mental health. Money raised is donated to The Lions Barber Collective, allowing the organisation to continue its work helping men up and down the UK. Wearers are encouraged to share snaps of them sporting their t-shirts online to help spread awareness, using the #WearYourMindOnYourSleeve hashtag. Tom launched Hair&Beauty Talk earlier this year; free mental health training to help hair and beauty professionals recognise signs of struggle amongst clients. www.thelionsbarbercollective.com

Clear panel face masks launch to aid the deaf community A specialist face covering brand has created two unique face masks to support the needs of the deaf community. Designed for those working in public sectors, FASK’s clear panel option is ideal for aiding lip reading for the deaf or hearing impaired and for those that want to share their smile. “The FASK face covering is the only CE tested face covering currently available in the UK,” cites a spokesperson for the brand. “The product can be safely used on public transport and other areas where a face covering is required. The products are made of high quality materials that are kind to skin and can filter airborne particles. “The FASK is proud to be aligned to the World Health Organisation guidelines for recommended fabrics and we’re excited to offer the FASK facecovering mask; triple-layered protective version that is CE Tested (chemicalfree), and the clear panel FASK has featured in the British Deaf News and has been much lauded by UK councils and several UK deaf charities.” www.faskuk.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Are you seeking new salon furniture or to revamp your space? Tour REM’s new virtual showroom from the comfort of your home and explore what’s available by visiting www.rem.co.uk

RY e? ng DATES FORto taTkeHonEa neDwIA nail art challe n

Mundo Professional, manufacturer of hygiene and infection control products, has changed its 2L product sizes to 1L, enabling you to ‘make some great savings while spending less money’. www.mundoproducts.co.uk

For the full stories, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk

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25 JULY

Lift both lashes & brows with dual treatment products from Salon System Add brow lamination and lash lifts to your treatment menu and save on product cost with Salon System’s dual treatment range. The three-step system lifts lashes for eight weeks and laminates brows for up to four weeks. The existing Salon System Lashlift range has been developed to work for both brows and lashes, offering an improved Lift Lotion, a new Boost Lotion and a new cream formulation. “I was amazed at the results,” comments Lisa Stone, Salon System educator & lash & brow expert. “The system offers fabulous, lifted lashes that look soft and conditioned and the most amazing fluffy brows with a gorgeous gloss finish. Products are so easy to use and apply and so gentle on the skin with no irritation.” Two training courses have been launched to support the release of the Lash & Brow Lift System, delivered by Training Solutions. In-store/on-site training is £160 + VAT, while blended online learning with a live webinar is £129 + VAT. The courses cover: • Salon hygiene for sanitisation/lash and brow health • Client consultation for contra-indications and client care • Product knowledge by Salon System brand ambassadors • Lashlift treatment with additional lash tint using Salon System brow & lash tints • Full knowledge on the leading three signature looks of Brow Lamination - Classic, Brushed Brow and Fluffy & Feathery. Further business support is also available including troubleshooting, business advice, and promotional and marketing advice for beauty professionals. Products are available to buy separately or as a trio from wholesalers nationwide. For more information, visit www.salonsystem.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15


WWW.OLYMPIABEAUTY.CO.UK @olympiabeautyuk

@olympiabeauty

@olympiabeauty


Registration is NOW OPEN Autumn’s biggest event for beauty professionals

SUN 3 & MON 4 OCT 2021 OLYMPIA LONDON

We’re excited to welcome the beauty industry back! Olympia Beauty 2021 will deliver a refreshing and dynamic show experience like no other! Are you ready to be inspired? Register for your tickets today!

WWW.OLYMPIABEAUTY.CO.UK Proud hosts of the following show features and competitions for 2021:

SALON & SPA owners’ club

The

BREAKOUT

Rooms

GREEN BEAUTY

The N ational M assage C hampionship


NEWPRODUCTS

Morgan Taylor Feel The Vibes Collection £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 each www.louellabelle.co.uk Enjoy the good vibes that the summer season brings with this fun nail lacquer collection; ideal for statement-making manicures and pedicures. The six shades include azure blue shimmer Keepin’ It Cool, which gives a nod to the beach, and the magenta pearl All Day, All Night.

INK London Steady Nail Art Gel Primary Collection £37.50 + VAT www.inknails.com The Steady Nail Art Gel serves up a paint-like consistency, similar to that of acrylic paint, but is LED curable. Highly pigmented, the shades can be mixed to create a bespoke colour to suit all your nail art needs. The gels, available for £8.33 + VAT each, are ideal for defined lines, swirls, ombré looks and general nail artistry.

List THE HOT

Nailchemy Fiber Gel £12.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Create a super strong base for Prophecy gel polish application with Fiber Gel; a non-yellowing 100% gel formula that’s veganfriendly and easy to soak off. Free from HEMA, Di-HEMA, HPMA and IBOA, Fiber Gel offers excellent adhesion and added strength and is great for the application of Nailchemy Fiber Gel Tips.

HD Pro Nail Systems Glow With The Flow Collection £84.99 + VAT Brighten up nail styles with this bold, highly pigmented gel polish collection. Featuring a creamy consistency with a 100% gel formula, the hues – including Flaming Flamingo and Kryptonite – are best used with the HD Flex It! Universal Base and Shine It! Top Coat. Shades are available individually for £12.49 + VAT.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

The Gel Bottle BIAB™ Collection £16.99 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com TGB has expanded its builder gel in a bottle (BIAB) range with 10 empowering shades; each named after a quality or strength. The diverse colour palette includes the fiery coral Passionate, pretty lilac Unique and edgy pink Adventurous.


NEWPRODUCTS Mystic Nails Fill & Form AcrylGel £16.95 inc VAT www.rebeccaorme.co.uk Odourless and easy to apply, Fill & Form acrylgels are highly pigmented and can be used as an overlay, over a form or to sculpt a short to medium extension. Five pretty pastel shades have joined the range of natural looking hues.

Magpie Beauty Shape Stacker Pots £2.25 + VAT each www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Encapsulate eye-catching shapes within enhancements with a choice of over 35 thin decal styles from Magpie Beauty. Each set of shapes comes in a pot that can be stacked on top of another pot – so you can create a bespoke tube of nail art offerings.

Halo Gel Polish Summer Throwback Collection £5.49 + VAT each www.purenails.co/stockists Embrace bold, bright hues this season with these six striking gel polish shades; from the punchy pink Girl Power to nostalgic purple Groovy Chick. Mix up the shades across nails or use to create some summer-friendly nail art designs that last up to three weeks. Summer Throwback shades are available alongside nail pops and an A2 promotional poster.

Famous Names Releaf Mani/Pedi range from £8.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Described by Famous Names as ‘intentional, effective, efficient and luxurious’, the comprehensive Releaf range for hands and feet includes CBD Elixir, Soak-A-Lyptus, AU Drench, Cuti-cal, Dadi’Scrub Gold, Dadi’Lotion Gold and Finish (all available in two sizes) and the Loosin’ It Foot File. A Starter Kit is available for £99 + VAT.

OPI GelColor Starter Kit £99 + VAT www.opiuk.com Kick-start your GelColor services with this handy kit, featuring product to perform up to 100 services. It features GelColor Stay Classic Base Coat, Stay Shiny Top Coat, four best-selling GelColor shades, Expert Touch, NAS 99, Bond Aid and ProSpa Cuticle Oil. The Starter Kit cost is a 30% saving on buying items separately.

SNA Cute‘ickle’ Pens (5pk) £16.50 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk Each of the scents in SNA’s Cute‘ickle’ range is inspired by a popular perfume, from Daisy Chain (based on Marc Jacobs’ Daisy) to Spaceman (inspired by Mugler’s Alien). Designed to hydrate and soften the cuticle area, the oils are formulated with jojoba and sweet almond oil. Available individually for £3.70 + VAT each.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19


Y T R PA

The Scratch Stars Party is an amazing night & allows the industry to get together, network & team build. "Scratch always puts on a fabulous event that’s totally memorable & unique!”

Michelle Brookes, Doncaster

With thanks to our sponsors:


TTIICC OONN KKEE TTSS S S NNOO AALL WW!! EE

Date: Sunday 25 July 2021 Time: 7pm - 1.30am Venue: Proud, Embankment, London Tickets: £69 + VAT each scratchstarsparty2021.eventbrite.co.uk or scan here Over 18s only.

scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars


Colour & COVERSTORY

Confidence Create stand-out manis & pedis for clients with the new nail colour & care nail line from Mii Cosmetics – featured on this month’s cover & designed to take centre stage in your nail setup HELENA BIGGS DISCOVERS MORE

A

re you ready for some showstopping nail shades? Mii, the brand launched by Gerrard International in 2011 and famed for its make-up, brow and tanning lines, has expanded into nailcare – owing to the expert direction of an industry great.

Susan Gerrard

Susan Gerrard, winner of a Scratch Stars Lifetime Achievement Award, has over 30 years’ experience in the natural nailcare sector. A spa and salon industry mogul, her company has scooped shelf-loads of awards for beauty training and distribution and the needs and wishes of spas, salons and their customers have been behind every move. With care a core ethos of all Gerrard International’s product ranges, the Mii Cosmetics line was created with 100% pure minerals – and now the new nail formulas are blended with ingredients to nurture. The goal? To reveal outstanding results so clients can feel cared for and confident – from head down to fingers and toes.

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Kellie French Creative direction: Kellie French & Paul Gerrard

22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Beauty, fashion and colour are part of our make-up,” Susan comments. “Throughout my career, I have been motivated and inspired by so many in the industry. Ten years ago, we launched Mii Cosmetics, which is now in over 1,500 UK salons and spas and distributed in 24 countries. It’s been a life-long dream to use my knowledge,

experience and passion for colour to create the best nailcare range possible and the new manicure and pedicure range from Mii produces stand-out results.” Susan worked alongside a team of seasoned beauty experts and laboratories worldwide to develop effective prescriptive treatments, long-lasting, fast-drying colours and glossy finishes for manicures and pedicures. The Mii nail range includes over 100 shades from the Colour Confidence Nail Polish and Statement Gel Polish lines alongside treatment base coats, quick-dry top coats, tools, accessories and hand and footcare products; all designed for ‘extraordinary’ manicures and pedicures and supported by training opportunities at the Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy, a Habia Centre of Excellence. Described by the Mii team as ‘inviting and beautiful yet simple, modern and fun’, the Mii nailcare line has been created over five years under rigorous scrutiny, with quality and performance paramount. The shades are inspired by a lifetime of stories and dreams. “When customers invest in our brand, we invest in their business and offer stand-out products, customer care, business support and training,” Susan continues. “We should all aspire to have healthy natural nails as we do for beautiful hair and beautiful skin and the Mii nail range gives nail techs the opportunity to offer the very best to their clients – whether they choose a gel polish or lacquer finish.”


The stars of the show

COVERSTORY

Strong + Stable Base Coat

Colour Confidence Nail Polish

Accompanied by a pro-glide ergonomic brush, each bottle of Colour Confidence Nail Polish promises high shine coverage in a few strokes. Over 100 shades are available in the range, which is formulated with vitamin A to aid nail growth, vitamin B4 to improve flexibility and vitamin E to protect from peeling and yellowing. Fast-drying, the formula is vegan and not tested on animals. 9ml: £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 14ml: £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50

Stunning mani/pedis rely on firm foundations, and the Strong + Stable Base Coat harnesses the power of pistacia resin oil, a natural oil with healing and strengthing properties, to reinforce and repair soft, thin and peeling nails. 9ml: £6.50 + VAT/RRP £13 14ml: £9.75 + VAT/RRP £19.50

Care + Caress Hand Serum

Acknowledging that the increased use of sanitisers and stripping soaps is wreacking havoc on hands, the Care + Caress Hand Serum contains Mii’s signature blend of soothing chamomile, calming thyme, powerful antioxidants and aloe vera. Enhanced by the calming fragrance of bergamot, earl grey and fresh cucumber, simply dispense a small amount of serum and gently massage into hands and fingers to restore a more youthful appearance to tired, dull skin. 100ml: £14.50 + VAT/RRP £29 300ml: £30 + VAT/RRP £60

SUSAN GERRARD’S HOT PICKS

Remove + Smooth Callus Peel

Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are encapsulated in a micro-mist to penetrate quickly and help exfoliate and eliminate dry, hardened skin. Calendula extract, eucalyptus oil and pomegranate seed oil provide a burst of cleansing moisturisation. Recommend use every 10 days to help maintain hydrated, smooth and healthy skin. 100ml: £12.50 + VAT/RRP £25 300ml: £22 + VAT/RRP £44

www.gerrardinternational.com / www.miicosmetics.com

/miicosmetics

@miicosmetics

“For the summer I would choose Coral Beach (Summer in Miami collection) for hands and Positively Playful (Fun Side of Mii collection] for toes. For the winter, I would wear either Red Devil (Irresistible Reds Collection) or Snowcloud (Hibernation Collection). “My favourite handcare product is the Care + Caress Hand Serum. It’s addictive! For footcare, I enjoy using the Remove + Smooth Callus Remover with the Stainless Steel Foot File; my secret weapon.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23




INDUSTRYSTANDARDS

Raising standards at the nail bar

A panel of experts & employers across the nail sector formed an Expert Working Group to focus on reviewing occupational standards for the nail industry. ALEX FOX finds out more…

T

he hair & beauty industry authority (Habia) has announced that the review of the National Occupational Standards (NOS) for Nails has been appoved and published by government. As part of Habia’s standard setting role, it worked with industry employers to form the Expert Working Group (EWG), whose remit was to review the existing NOS and update and agree the changes necessary. This would ensure that the NOS are reflective of industry changes to maintain and improve standards of practice. These new NOS are now a direct response to the developments seen in the rapidly growing and evolving nail sector. Commenting on the review of the standards, Joan Scott, chair of Habia cites, “Despite a very challenging year for the sector, it is great that the review of the national standards wasn’t delayed. The nail standards have now been updated by employers to ensure they reflect the recent changes in the nail industry. I offer special thanks to all the employers who contributed their valuable time and knowledge to be involved in this important project, both as part of the Expert Working Groups (EWG) and also those that provided feedback during the consultation process.” Diane Hey, employer and chair of the overall NOS Steering Group, adds, “I’m delighted with the approval and publication of the seven suites of National Occupational Standards (NOS). It has been a privilege to chair the process. I’d personally like to thank all the colleagues, experts and EWG chairs for their diligence and commitment to ensuring these NOS are complete and reflective of developments in each of the key aspects of the sector. These suites have brought new modalities forward, have established the level of practice standard expected, are fully inclusive and have been a monumental achievement!”

Behind Habia & understanding the NOS Habia is the government recognised standard setting body (SSB) for the hair, barbering, beauty, nails, spa and aesthetic sectors. For more than 30 years it has been developing national standards that form the basis of qualifications across the UK. As an independent, not-for-profit organisation, Habia works with all industry organisations, individual employers, learning providers, awarding bodies, government and its agencies across the UK. The Habia logo is a long-established, well-recognised sign of high-quality standards, excellence and professionalism. National Occupational Standards (NOS) are developed by Standard Setting Organisations (SSO) such as Habia, which consult with employers and other stakeholders across each of the UK nations (Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and England). This consultation process allows any specific requirements to be considered by each nation and the result is a set of NOS that are suitable for use across the UK. The NOS, which are set out in a common format, are approved on a four-nation basis and content is scrutinised by SQA Accreditation. Each NOS has a published date stating when it was approved, and there is also an anticipated review date. This is used as a guide to when they require reviewing and feedback from stakeholders is taken to influence when this is commissioned.

Nail expert Marian Newman, BEM, who has worked with Habia for over 25 years, was invited to chair the Expert Working Group for the Nails Suite and notes, “The reviewed and approved NOS for nail services will bring this sector up-to-date for 2021 and beyond. I was very honoured to have been a part of this long and very careful process and would like to thank Habia and the NOS team for making this happen so efficiently.”

Although NOS are developed as individual measures of competence, they are grouped in suites, which identify the sector they relate to. There are approximately 900 suites at present, with almost 23,000 separate NOS, which cover a wide range of sectors. The NOS can be used for developing skills and knowledge and these include direct transfer into vocational and other qualifications, framework for training programmes, measures of workplace competence and influencing job descriptions.

“The nail standards have now been updated by employers to ensure they reflect the recent changes in the nail industry.”

As an example, one NOS correlates directly to one unit of a Scottish/National Vocational Qualification, and these are used to develop qualifications, which in turn can be offered through awarding bodies.

26 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Scan here to view the NOS for Plan, Design & Create Advanced Nail Art


INDUSTRYSTANDARDS

NOS NEWFLASH!

Qualifi is an Ofqual approved awarding organisation that’s been established for 20 years. Its reputation has been built on specialising in academic qualifications leading to degree progression in areas such as hospitality and tourism, sports and aquatics and accounting and finance. However, in response to market needs, Qualifi has seen a growing demand for consistent and credible vocational qualifications in the hair, beauty, wellness and aesthetics sectors, as these areas of the beauty industry have become more vibrant, competitive and global in nature.

Jason Goodyear, CEO of Qualifi, appointed Runa McNamara and a team of hair and beauty technical experts to develop a suite of qualifications to meet this growing demand. “Qualifi’s hair, beauty, wellness and aesthetics qualifications offer a unique slant Runa McNamara in that each qualification comprises units written to the very latest Habia NOS – National Occupational Standards,” enthuses Runa McNamara, Qualifi director for hair, beauty, wellness & aesthetics. “These standards, devised by technical experts and employers, have been written to meet the latest industry thinking. This ensures that learners develop relevant skills and the general public can be safe and confident when receiving services and treatments from Qualifi qualified practitioners. “Qualifi and Habia, have formed a partnership to provide qualification solutions to raise the industry standards both in the UK and internationally. Certificates will be uniquely branded with Ofqual, Qualifi and Habia logos.

“Qualifi’s hair, beauty, wellness and aesthetics qualifications offer a unique slant in that each qualification comprises units written to the very latest Habia NOS – National Occupational Standards.”

“The most recent development sees Habia and Qualifi working closely with the Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP), to develop a suite of qualifications for the nail industry.” Habia, the standards setting body for qualifications in the hairdressing, barbering, trichology, beauty, make-up, nails, wellbeing and holistic therapy and aesthetic industries together with Qualifi are committed to raising standards in these industries. 10 benefits for Qualifi-approved training providers: 1. UK and international awarding organisation, with a long and strong history. 2. Qualifications are regulated by Ofqual in the UK. 3. Internationally recognised and industry endorsed. 4. Specialist technical team with significant experience and industry renowned. 5. Unique partnership with Habia and the Habia logo features on Qualifi certificates. 6. Qualifications based on the latest UK NOS – National Occupational Standards. 7. Sector leading industry specialists developed the standards to meet the latest employment needs. 8. Standardisation through ‘trade test’ exams and external quality assurance. 9. Centre training for tutors and assessors. 10. Member benefits associated with the FNP, Habia, Good Salon Guide, Good Training Guide and the NHBF. For further information, visit www.qualifi-hbwa.com

Meet Joan Scott, chair, Habia

Joan Scott

A beauty and spa expert by trade, Joan Scott is also an award-winning educationalist, specialising in apprenticeships and adult education. Currently assistant principal at Trafford College Group (TCG), Joan is leading strategically on its apprenticeships and adult learning.

As chair of Habia, Joan works to promote and serve the hair and beauty sector. Habia, as the government recognised standard setting body, develops national standards and promotes excellence and professionalism. It is in this role that Joan also hosts ‘Education Forums’, keeping educators aware of current challenges and opportunities. Joan is author of The Official Guide to Spa Therapy and has contributed to many other beauty textbooks. Her passion for the industry has seen her visit spas across the world. Joan believes passionately in the impact of skill competitions, helping learners to go further and faster in their careers. She is an ambassador for the Association of Colleges (AoC) promoting WorldSkills UK and has visited WorldSkills UK competitions in Budapest and Abu Dhabi and more recently won The Times Education Supplement (TES) WorldSkills UK Hero Award. www.habia.org

/HabiaUK

@habiauk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 27


SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros…

@nails_and

_soul

S T A T S

DID YOU KNOW…?

Most loved...

Our repost of these stunning monochrome nails by @nails_and_soul was our most loved photo on Instagram last month, amassing over 2,700 likes!

Despite being a quick and easy way to remove make-up, wipes can take up to 100 years to biodegrade, and often aren’t disposed of properly. BusinessWaste.co.uk has found that a staggering 11 billion make-up wipes are being flushed by consumers each year.

SUSTAINABILITY STAT

POPULAR BEAUTY PICKS

Kylie Jenner’s beauty looks are the most searched for across the ‘net, according to research by Recreate Yourself. The influencer has her own cosmetics and skincare line, which has catapulted her to billionaire status – and her beauty looks average 816,400 searches annually. Following her in the list is Ariana Grande, Jennifer Aniston, Selena Gomez and Kim Kardashian.

69% of consumers want to reduce their plastic consumption, with one in seven people changing to more sustainable beauty products in the last three months. Source: The British Beauty Council’s Courage To Change report

TREND SPOT! Nails by @cyrankae

The most popular nail design trend on Instagram is marble nails, according to research by OnBuy Body Care. Marble nails have amassed over 1.8 million hashtags, and the most popular nail finish is glitter nails, with over nine million hashtags.

FOLLOW US! #showscratch www.scratchmagazine.co.uk 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

THE GIFT OF GIVING

Gift cards could be key to attracting and retaining younger shoppers, according to The State of the Nation 2021 research. This research surveyed 2,000 UK shoppers to determine evolving buying habits, and 92.6% of those born after 1995 purchase gift cards, with one in three millennials becoming a regular customer of a new brand after receiving a gift card for that business.

/scratchmag

GET SOCIAL!

Are you following Scratch magazine’s social platforms? Check out our handles below and follow for daily nail content to keep you inspired and informed.

@scratchmagazine

/scratchmag @scratchmagazine @scratchmagazine @scratch.magazine Scratch Magazine @scratchmagazine



10 BUSINESSMATTERS

ways to upgrade your mani & pedi services

Enhance your profit potential & your client’s nail experience with CHLOE RANDALL’S pick of luxurious treatment upgrades…

1

Massage

As well as leaving your clients feeling relaxed, a hand or foot massage is great for stimulating blood flow and easing muscle tension. The end result of the massage should leave your client’s hands and/or feet feeling soft, supple and revitalised. Light Elegance Q&Lu Spa Oil £14.95 + VAT/ RRP £34.95 www.sweetsquared.com Containing grape seed oil, sunflower oil, vitamin E and essential oils of mint, basil and lavender, this oil helps to relieve tension and ease sore muscles.

2

Aromatherapy

Create a multi-dimensional experience that appeals to all senses by adding an aromatherapy element to your service. Consider offering your client a choice of hand or foot lotion scent depending on their mood; such as citrus to invigorate and awaken and lavender to calm. Incorporate into your treatment with a subtle diffuser or essential oils in a pedi bowl.

3 Astonishing Nails Spa Hydrating Lotion £7.82 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk This fast absorbing, intensely moisturising foot and body lotion features shea butter and sweet almond oil to soften, moisturise, protect and repair skin.

4

Hard skin removal

Upgrade a standard pedicure service with a hard skin removal treatment. Often a speedy add-on, you may be able to upsell within the allotted appointment time and the extra attention to their feet will make them feel extra pampered and cared for. Lovaskin Instant Foot Peeling Kit £32.08 + VAT www.purenails.co This quick-working treatment helps to recover soft, healthy and silky feet. The kit allows for approximately 25 treatments and includes Instant Foot Peeling Spray and a double-sided foot file.

30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

HIVE Solutions Aromatic Body Blends £7.25 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk These Body Blends feature a carefully selected variety of essential oils to support a mood, with each providing unique benefits as they are absorbed during luxury massage treatments.

Comfort Ensuring your clients are comfortable during their treatment can go a long way towards making your client feel special and relaxed. Choose mani chairs or pedi stations that have been ergonomically tested and designed with comfort in mind so they can unwind while you tend to fingers or toes.

REM Natura Lux Pedicure chair £2291 + VAT www.rem.co.uk This luxurious chair has a ceramic basin, retractable tap system, adjustable footrest and basin cover as well as a reclining back rest and manicure armrests for optimum comfort. The fabric and laminate can be chosen to your liking and to suit your salon interior.


5

BUSINESSMATTERS

Exfoliation

Remove dead skin cells and leave hands and feet feeling silky and soft by adding an exfoliation element. Consider offering a variety of scents to incorporate the aromatherapy element into your service. Jessica ZenSpa Revive Microdermabrasion Foot Scrub £8.75 + VAT/RRP £16.95 www.gerrardinternational.com This scrub eliminates hard, dead skin cells to reveal smooth feet from heel to toe. The scrub also cleanses and purifies feet while reducing cracked heels, calluses and sensitivity.

6

Moisturise

Hand and foot masks help to deliver a dose of intense moisturisation. Hand sanitiser can be very drying for skin, so serve up a mask to rehydrate. CND™ SpaManicure Almond Illuminating Masque £18.95 +VAT www.sweetsquared.com Deeply condition and refine the skin with this soothing mask, leaving it with a healthy glow. The shimmering masque contains a moisturising blend of sweet almond oil, jojoba oil and vitamin E.

7

Soak

Using a soak can help to soothe muscles, hydrate skin and relieve aches and pains. Simply add the product to some water, wait for it to dissolve and let the soak work its magic in a mani or pedi service.

9

8 OPI Pro Spa Soothing Soak £29.40 + VAT www.opiuk.com OPI’s Pro Spa Soothing Soak is fast dissolving, when it then cleanses and revives tired soles. Using sugar instead of salt, the soak includes horse chestnut, calendula and sage to help soothe fatigued feet. It also has a non-clogging, spa-safe formula.

Show clients that you care about their hands and feet long after the service has finished by recommending products to maintain their needs at home. You could gift a miniature nail oil or a sample as an initial gesture, and if they like it – you can follow up by selling a full-size retail version at their next visit.

Heated treatments

Heated treatments add a touch of luxury to your services that your clients won’t be able to easily recreate at home. Heated mitts and booties, while cosy and relaxing, help products such as paraffin wax and lotion penetrate faster and deeper into the dermis for optimum effect. Salonserve Heated Booties £24.50 + VAT www.salonserve.com Salonserve’s heated booties can be used with paraffin wax, warm oil or lotion. Apply the product to the skin, place in a polythene liner, place into the bootie and leave for 10 minutes for an intense treatment.

Retail

10

Peacci‘ Retail Starter Kit (10pk) £170 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com This Starter Kit includes S.K.I.N ManiPedi Trios which consists of a scrub, mask and cream. 10 trios are included in the starter kit as well as a display merchandiser stand, posters and a window sticker.

All That Jazz Apple & Cucumber Gift Set £7.99 + VAT/RRP £15.99 www.gsgroupuk.com Appeal to the senses with this sweet kit, featuring cuticle oil, hand and foot cream and an All That Jazz nail polish.

Customer care

Exceptional customer service is an easy and cost effective way to bring luxury to your client. Asking them about the kind of service they would like (silent or chatty or with or without music, for example), and how they would like to feel at the end of their treatment can go a long way in aiding their manicure or pedicure experience.

TOP TIP

You can upgrade your client’s manicure or pedicure on the day if time allows by asking them what they need and suggesting ways you can help with any issues they may be having, for an extra charge. By adding an extra step or two into the service, this is an easy way to charge a higher price while making them feel special and cared for. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31


s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , u r st a r st yl e … yo it su to s n g si p ic ks & d e

ns; Canceria lour for lucky co in this s a is ke o o ite Wh elle Br by Mich as used design bré nail m o y tt pre

BIRTHDAY TECH!

Michelle Brookes of Beauty Lounge, Doncaster & Michelle Brookes Training Academy Educator, nail stylist and Scratch Stars finalist, Michelle Brookes, has 23 years’ experience in the nail industry and celebrates her birthday on 4 July, falling under the Cancer star sign. “I love art and being a nail tech allows me to bring out my creative side,” she comments. “I adore nail artistry and my favourite media to work with are art gel and aquarelle paints. “As a Cancerian, my birthday is in the summer; my favourite time of year. There’s always a lot to look forward to in June/July and generally great weather. A Cancer trait is artistic prowess, and we are also highly imaginative and persuasive. These are great skills to hone when helping my clients to decide on their next nail design.” /beautyloungedoncaster

@michellebrookes_nailacademy

Cancer

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

design stial nail This cele sy of e rt u o c comes t nnailsbyk @vega

Happy birthday Cancerians! July will bring good luck, creativity and positivity and will increase your connection to others. It is a period of reflection and nostalgia.

Libra

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22

The personal life and relationships of Libra’s are shifted into view this month. In the workplace, new opportunities may be presented owing to boosts in creativity.

Capricorn

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

July is a great time for Capricorns to look ahead and make big or important decisions. It’s a great time to expand your horizons – inside and outside of the workplace.

Aries

MARCH 21 – ARPIL 19

Aries individuals will experience growth in their personal and professional life this month. Reflection, relaxation and connections with others will be important. Choose a bold, purple hue to embrace the month with vigour. INK London iLac i-154 in Purple Persuasion £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@beautyloungedoncaster

Salon System Gellux in Dare To Wear £11.95 JULY 23 – AUGUST 22 + VAT. Available from wholesalers Leos will embrace new beginnings in their personal life nationwide.

Leo

Virgo AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

July will bring energy to help enhance both the personal and professional relationships of Virgo. This will be supported by the boost in this sign’s natural empathic nature.

this July, bringing energy and creativity to their relationships with others and themselves. Celebrate growth with a bold green shade on nails.

Sa arius

Scorpio

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

There is a strong focus on teaching and learning for Scorpios this July. This month is a time of positive breakthroughs and changes, with difficulties from past months working out for the OPI GelColor in better. Be bold with a Strawberry Waves punchy pink shade on nails. Forever £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Aquarius

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18

This month brings improvements and extra focus to personal relationships for Aquarians. This is a time of exciting and important changes – just be sure to embrace them! Ride the wave with a cool blue hue.

Sagittarians will see an increase in energy, inspiration and creativity this month. This helps to support productivity and Sagittarians will also see positive developments in their work and home life.

Pisces

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

July brings lots of optimistic and creative energy to Pisces, as well as bouts of enthusiasm. Enhance the Halo Gel Polish in Mellow Yellow £5.49 + VAT enthusiasm www.purenails.co/stockists and creativity July brings by incorporating shades of bright, sunny yellow onto nails.

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Keepin’ It Cool £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Taurus

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

Work prospects and social circles are expanding for Taureans this July. There will be plenty of social and group interaction on the horizon in the salon and beyond.

Gemini

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

There are opportunities born through hard work headed for Gemini this month, fuelling expansion in the sign’s professional life. These opportunities are aided with a passion for learning; embrace it with red nail tones.



Challenge TECHTALK

Nail techs reveal the challenges they’ve faced since lockdown was lifted & how they’ve effectively managed them to ensure success

BOOKING DIPS

Sabrina Malik, nail professional & beauty therapist, SAB Studio Specialist in All Things Beauty, Birkdale

The challenge: “I have had to change the way we work at SAB Studio to address the fact that we’re not as busy as expected since opening last April. “I’ve had a long hard look at what’s going on and it’s clear that some clients are nervous and apprehensive about returning to the salon. I’m seeing a 50:50 split between clients happy to return and those that aren’t. Certainly, the bread and butter clients from the older generation are apprehensive. There was a general feeling coming out of the first lockdown of confusion and wondering what it all meant. The second lockdown was welcomed as a mini break by some, however, the third lockdown has negatively affected the mental health of many people and consequently, they are unsure about returning to the salon. “Some clients feel that since they haven’t been going out as much, their nails are not as important as they have been in the past. Their hair colour and cut are seen as more of a priority, as they see their hair every time they pass a mirror. It’s glaring at them. For us techs, during the lockdowns, we cared for our clients by guiding them on how to care for their hands and nails at home. Potentially, we taught them too much.” The solution: “I decided to have an open attitude and start again. I now open my salon on a Monday, when many salons are closed. I also now offer a VIP service; a one-to-one exclusive service just as celebrities enjoy. My phone is turned off and the client gets my full attention for the entire appointment. This works well for mobile techs, too. By going into someone’s home you are delivering a first rate, exclusive service, so it should be marketed as such. “Take the client’s mind off Covid and their worries and let them sink into your experience. I judge their needs right down to the smallest detail. Do they have any disabilities or ailments? What is their favourite scent? What music do they like? I have it all noted and can create the environment to exclusively suit them. “I let clients know why they should choose my salon and services. I explain that I have 25 years of knowledge and training behind me. I reveal that I not only make them look good, but also feel good and be healthy. I make sure I relate that I’m an expert in many

34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

services and can make their feet (for example), look and feel good. Nail techs rarely shout about their skills and the investment they’ve taken to train and better themselves. I shout about my skills, the training I’ve undertaken and the professional products I use. “Another important feature of my approach is that in order to make sure my seat is never empty, I now incentivise and utilise my regular clients by offering the opportunity for them to refer a friend. My stance is ‘all or nothing’, so I’m aggressive in my marketing ideals. I have made up a card, and I offer my client three to take away. The card offers the recipient £10 off a treatment and I then give this new customer the best treatment of their life to entice them to return. Meanwhile, the client who recommended them gets £10 off any treatment as a ‘thank you’. I believe in creating loyalty. “There’s one more important aspect to success, and that’s having passion. There’s so much that goes into being a nail professional and it starts with being proud, professional and passionate. We have the knowledge behind us, so it’s time to shout about it and build this industry up.” @sab76malik

@thesabstudio

Scan here to watch Scratch’s interview with Sabrina Malik about her business changes & advice for others


Manage

SANITISING EFFECTS

Ulrika Lakkotrypi of NailStyle Nail Salon, Larnaca, Cyprus

The challenge: Following lockdown, Ulrika Lakkotrypi noticed that many of her clients were experiencing lifting of their enhancements. Realising that the increased handwashing and use of hand sanitiser was most likely to be behind the lifting, Ulrika Lakkotrypi decided to change her nail prep to address the issue. The solution: “I found that doing a much more in-depth prep helped,” Ulrika explains. “I make sure that the nail plate is thoroughly dehydrated before continuing with gel or L&P application. Then, I apply the bonder or primer, before continuing with the gel or acrylic.” @nailstylecy

TECHTALK

A RUSH TO BE READY

Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert & owner of Paint by Jaz The challenge: “My friend and I decided to renovate our salon but couldn’t get a builder until 10 April, so it became a rush to get it ready for clients. We opened on 17 April, but I didn’t consider how tired my body would be. Six days of late nights sanding, painting, worrying that it would not be ready on time and then straight into full columns of clients after months out of work was so tough. I was a little rusty, too. I still remembered what to do, but I was so much slower.” The solution: Time and regular practice was paramount for Jaz, as was a great deal of organisation. “One week, I was completely back into the swing of things, and all of my clients were so happy to be back and see my new place. It was so rewarding. “I also seem to have had an influx of new clients since opening somewhere new, and found it hard to accommodate everyone. I’ve been doing my job for 10 years, so I already had a big client base, so I’ve stopped taking on new clients for now. There are worse problems to have, I guess!” @paintbyjaz

THE NEED FOR SPEED Ruth Munro, Magpie Beauty educator

The challenge: “The most common problem my students and I have faced since returning to work has been speed,” Ruth comments. “I’ve heard from many techs that have been working at a slower pace post lockdown. Time is money and running late is stressful, so understandably it’s very frustrating for technicians who feel that their speed is not what it was pre-pandemic.” The solution: “I encourage my students to take their time and remember that clients come to them to relax so do not want to be rushed in and out. Be honest with your clients about how long the service will take and price accordingly. “I created a vlog to help others cut down their salon times, which suggests a few time-saving tips such as completing consultation forms online prior to appointments, requesting nail art pictures in advance, using an e-file Watch and opting for express products such as full coverage tip systems and nail Ruth’s salon speed vlog art stickers.” here

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35


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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS Chair of the FNP, MARIAN NEWMAN BEM, shares updates on the work of the organisation ROUNDING UP THE FEDS

T

he Feds have been very busy. Membership will soon be launch for the FNP and with ‘personal services’ back open, the board feels (and hopes) that many are ready to join it as full members.

The Federation’s two new patrons (OPI and Glitterbels) have allowed the organisation to completely revamp its website with great functionality and plenty of membership benefits. Here are just a few: • Each member will have their own ‘mini-site’ open and promoted to the consumer. This is a place in which they can upload information and images with a search facility including things such as area/locality and services. • Educators in the ‘Licence Olympia Beauty 2019 to Teach’ section will have access to a live and genuine review area with their course details and student reviews which will be promoted to the consumer and industry. • A reciprocal membership discount collaboration with BABTAC which, together with its own benefits, will allow access to its insurance. • A huge Members Only arena with lots of help and information. Plus, so much more!

help the six board members to administer and promote the Feds. As it is a not-for-profit organisation, all six work hard voluntarily, and really need this help to guarantee the success of the FNP. • The full list of membership fees and criteria plus all the benefits. • The affiliates who are all working together on the issues facing the wider beauty sector. The FNP will be launching videos in the coming weeks from each of its board members to explain the FNP mission in more detail. In addition, the FNP has teamed up with Professional Beauty for its PB North and PB London shows and will have an FNP stand at both events at which nail professionals can meet the board, ask questions and join. I will host a main stage on the Monday of PB London and two ‘slots’ at PB North with some special guests and demos, and the FNP will be organising nail competitions at both shows to bring some new and exciting categories to the industry. In addition, Olympia Beauty has kindly donated a stand at its trade event in October – the first big trade beauty event in the UK since 2019, so you can come and visit the Feds there too!

“Olympia Beauty has kindly donated a stand at its trade event in October – the first big trade beauty event in The team is determined to organise a couple of seminars/socials for us all to the UK since 2019, so get together, learn something and have you can come and a ‘party’. We will do this later in the year The Feds will be announcing: and the plan is for one in the north of the UK visit the Feds!” • Its Feds advisors, a board of experts skilled in and one in the south. The team sincerely hopes various subjects that are willing to help members. • Its fabulous volunteers who are bringing many skillsets to 38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

many of you will be joining us very soon, talking to us and allowing us to be ‘your voice’ for the industry.


SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

NEWSFLASH! THE FNP WELCOMES GLITTERBELS AS ITS SECOND PATRON On behalf of The Federation of Nail Professionals (and all the Feds!), I would like to thank Elliott and Annabel Maginnis of Glitterbels for becoming our second valued patron. Glitterbels, the brand, is relatively new to the professional nail industry but, my goodness, it is ‘storming’! With a wide range of compliant product ranges and equipment, the company distributes its products in several countries. New product ranges are always in development and the company has recently moved to a 50,000 sq ft warehouse that (I have on good authority) is being painted in the brand’s signature colour; pink! Glitterbels has a large team of educators around the country and provides many different types of courses for beginners through to improvers. The FNP is nearly ready to launch its membership via its new and improved website. This massive task has only been made possible due to the financial input from our first two patrons: OPI and now Glitterbels. As a not-for-profit organisation where we are all volunteers, we rely on financial support from our patrons, benefactors and friends. Plus, of course, our new members. We sincerely hope OPI and Glitterbels will soon be joined by others who want to help us help the nail industry. We have a lot of exciting plans and these can only be realised with help from the wider industry. Details of how to do this will be on the new website that will launch imminently. Once again, thank you to Glitterbels for allowing us to move forward to be ‘the voice of the industry’.

“Glitterbels/Nails by Annabel is so excited to be working with the FNP. We strongly believe that this will be a fantastic collaboration. “As a brand, we have built up a huge, loyal and passionate customer base in a short time. We are extremely dedicated to our customers and constantly working on product development while developing our training courses to bring the highest level of education to our students. “It is great knowing that the nail industry now has a voice as a standalone sector, and we are very excited to be involved in some of the projects the FNP has to come. “We have a shared passion and belief in driving our industry forward in a positive way.” Elliott & Annabel Maginnis, Glitterbels/Nails by Annabel

www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

@the_fnp_

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39


NAILTALES

INTERNATIONAL

Nail Spy Scratch’s ALEX FOX explores local trends in the nail & beauty spheres in S o u t h

Af A frica…

Salon in the spotlight…

Name: Candida De Lange Job title: Nail tech & make-up artist Business name: Nail Artistry By Sugar Coat Location: South Peninsula, Cape Town, South Africa

My story “I started my nail career journey in 2016 and focused on gaining knowledge through courses before placing second in my first national nail competition that same year. My confidence grew and I took part in the Nail Idol Challenge by Liz Guild: I made it to the third round. “I fell in love with nail art and competitions as they opened up a new world of creativity for me. In 2020, Covid-19 sent South Africa into lockdown and I closed for six months. It was devastating, but lockdown presented the opportunity to enter online international nail art competitions and take virtual courses.”

Nail styles “The almond or coffin/ballerina shapes are really popular with my clients. They often choose French and baby boomer styles as well as black, nudes and various glitters. Abstract nail art and animal prints have been very popular lately but around 70% of my clients are quite reserved with nail art.”

Differences “The working environments of my clients restrict their choices for nail length and art so natural nail looks and lengths are prevalent. Also, tipping your nail tech is almost unheard of in SA, whereas overseas it seems quite a common thing. I see that clients in the UK are more adventurous with art, designs and length. However, TikTok and Reels have definitely created a small shift, with some clients wanting to be more trendy.”

Im

ag

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esy of @ th

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/nailartistrybysugarcoat

@nailartistrybysugarcoat

Did you know? Known as the upside-down tree, the South African baobab makes oil, which contains vitamins A, D, E, and F. These vitamins help rejuvenate damaged skin cells and so baobab oil is good for common skin complaints such as eczema. 40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Brand spotlight:

Bio Sculpture

Location: Clocolan, South Africa Founder of Bio Sculpture, Elmien Elmien Scholtz Scholtz, enrolled at the CIDESCO Beauty Academy before opening her first salon. Unable to source premium quality nailcare products, she continued her nail studies in the USA, where she concluded that if she wanted a leading nailcare product to meet all her requirements, it would have to be developed from the ground up. Her goal was not only beautiful nails, but nail health. By consulting with top scientists in their respective fields and applying the latest technologies, Bio Sculpture Gel was born in 1988. Today, its HQ is situated in the small town of Clocolan, playing an important role in the socio-economic environment, surrounded by breath-taking African landscape. The 3000sqm modern factory is an environmentally friendly building with regulated ventilation systems, self-supportive water storage and optimises natural lighting. The factory is ISO 22716 certified for Good Manufacturing Practices. “South Africa’s nail techs and salons each focus on extremely different target markets, ranging from high to low income customers,” Elmien comments. “South Africa has many franchises and salons with up to six working nail techs whereas in the UK, the trend appears to see more techs working for themselves in private premises. “In SA, there are many differing attitudes towards product training, however Bio Sculpture prides itself on its training and sees a great response from techs that qualify as they see the value in learning, especially in a constantly changing nail industry.” Bio Sculpture Gel products are distributed in the UK via www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Brand bestsellers

Bio Sculpture’s global best sellers are the Bio Gel Base and Evo Gloss Top Coat. Its top selling colours in Bio Gel are #1 French White, #19 Pillar Box and #2017 Liquorice and Miley, Dane and Whitney in Evo Gel.



NATURALNAILCARE

Nail

Nurture

CHLOE RANDALL explores ways to maintain & support natural nail health… Impressive nail art might attract likes on Instagram, and it may well initially invite a new client to book an appointment with you, but if the health of the natural nail is compromised or not treated with care, arty additions cannot be thoroughly enjoyed. A full understanding of the anatomy of the nail unit and how to treat various conditions is vital for all nail professionals, both for your own practices and the satisfaction and safety of the client. By mastering natural nailcare, it shows you have the client’s best interest at heart, making them more likely to return for follow-up appointments. The lockdown restrictions left clients to their own devices when it came to nailcare, with some confidently embracing at-home rituals and others causing more damage than good. From removing enhancements incorrectly to neglecting regular use of nail oil, nail professionals have been putting in extra time to treat nail conditions before any nail system can be applied. What’s more, with hand sanitiser being used more than ever before and causing drying effects, it has never been more important to champion the basics of nailcare, whatever your chosen system. Regardless of whether your client is a ‘regular’, ensure your consultation is thorough, as changes in medication or lifestyle can affect how you perform the service. A thorough assessment of the client’s nail health must be done to ensure there are no contra-indications that would prevent any service taking place. Read on to explore conditions you may be noticing and how best to manage them…

42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Consultation is key Carrying out a thorough consultation is an imperative step, whether the client is familiar to you or someone completely new to your services. The information gathered during a consultation should be noted on a client record or in your salon software system. A consultation gives you the opportunity to make note of any medical conditions a client may have, as well as relevant lifestyle factors and what they hope to achieve from their appointments with you. Part of the consultation process should include analysing the natural nail in order for you to provide the best treatment for the nails. Assess each nail individually, as this will allow you to tailor the treatment as well as the “A consultation course duration if applicable. Pointers to include on your consultation form are: • Any health conditions • Medications • Job and hobbies • Nail history • Nail goals

gives you the opportunity to note any medical conditions a client may have.”

Footlogix Consultation Pads (25 sheets) £1 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk


NATURALNAILCARE

Common conditions Hard cuticles

“What many techs and clients refer to as the cuticle, is actually the eponychium or keratinised proximal fold,” comments Katie Barnes, award-winning Katie Barnes tech, brand founder and educator. “The cuticle itself is the dry, flaky, dead skin that is found on the nail plate, whereas the eponychium and keratinised proximal fold is living tissue attached to the skin on the finger. “While it can appear unsightly, cutting eponychium or keratinised proximal fold isn’t recommended, as the purpose of the eponychium and keratinised proximal fold is to protect the matrix. “If this area is removed, discomfort and infections can occur. Also, over time, cutting eponychium and keratinised proximal fold can lead to thickened scar-like tissue, which looks like hard skin or cuticles. This overgrows and becomes harder, for fear it is ‘being attacked.’ It reacts like this to protect the matrix. Damage from removing the proximal fold

“It can be easy to get in a vicious cycle with this, especially if the client has been nipping this area at home. Unfortunately, this cannot be repaired immediately and several appointments and homecare is required. It is important to condition the cuticles on a minimum of a daily basis with good quality cuticle oil and it is good practice to repeat after hand washing. In just a couple of weeks, the client will begin to notice the difference and their eponychium will be more aesthetically pleasing and will not continue to overgrow and harden like it once did.” KB Cuticle Prep Trio Kit £54.99 + VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

The effects of regular hand sanitising “Since re-opening after two lockdowns, I’ve noticed my clients’ hands and nails to be dry, brittle and the skin to be sensitive from sanitising and disinfecting,” comments Amy Martin, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “As a Amy Martin result, I have had to take extra care when filing and prepping my clients’ nail plates. “Usually, for gel and enhancement services I prefer to do dry nail prep, however since reopening I have started to use cuticle remover. The All The Jazz cuticle remover is enriched with natural ingredients including rosehip oil, which helps to heal, acts as an anti-inflammatory and helps to bring back some flexibility to dry, brittle nails. This product enables me to easily and gently remove my client’s dead skin tissue while still conditioning the nail plate. I also finish the service with cuticle oil and gently massage it into the cuticle area. “When using a cuticle remover, be sure to follow the recommended timings and remove the entire product from the nail plate before continuing your service. “Although this condition can be treated in the salon, I also highlight to my clients that they will need to follow up with strict aftercare at home. By retailing a good cuticle oil and hand cream, this will also help to add moisture back into your client’s nail plates that they have lost due to the sanitising and disinfecting.” All That Jazz Cuticle Remover

Light Elegance LEPro Cuticle Oil £3.45 + VAT/RRP £7.95 www.sweetsquared.com

The Gel Bottle Inc Cuticle Oil £9 + VAT/RRP £14 www.thegelbottle.com Pure Nails Prep It Cuticle Feed £7.99 + VAT www.purenails.co/stockists

Cream £7.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Top tip

Recommend to your clients that they keep cuticle oil beside their toothbrush, as this helps clients to remember to apply morning and night. It is easier to help introduce a new routine when it is incorporated into an existing one! >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43


NATURALNAILCARE

Tech talk

“The most common issue I’ve faced since returning after lockdown is seeing really dry skin on the hands of new clients and around their nails, more hangnails and damage from dry, brittle nails,” comments Tabby Casto, brand ambassador at Louella Belle. Tabby Casto

Famous Names Dadi’Oil £7.50 + VAT/RRP £15 www.louellabelle.co.uk

“Most of my clients use Famous Names Dadi’Oil and Lotion which really helps, but I’m also finding new clients who have never been given aftercare advice or have sourced lotions that are occlusive and don’t hydrate. Coupled with all extra hand washing and sanitising, a number of skin issues are being presented. Nails after Famous Releaf CBD “I tend to give these new clients extra attention, giving them Elixir & Dadi’Oil treatment aftercare advice during and after each appointment as well as showing them how to massage in the Dadi’Oil Lotion and Oil on their own after they leave the treatment room. I send them a PDF once they’ve left me with treatment options, my repair policy and aftercare tips and tricks so all my clients know how important it is.

“Education is key and so many salons do not give their customer the information that is needed to keep their hands healthy during lockdowns or after they’ve left the salon.” Famous ReLeaf CBD Elixir £55 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Pseudomonas are a common bacterial infection of the nail plate. It is commonly referred to as a ‘greenie’ due to the colour it appears on the nail. This green colour is actually the by-product or waste of the bacteria.

Image courtesy of Toni Wilde

Pseudomonas (Greenies)

This type of bacteria usually lives harmlessly in our everyday surroundings, causing us no issues. However, it is an opportunistic pathogen and will seek out any little breaks in our defences, such as lifting or cracks in nail coatings and this is when it seizes the opportunity to cause harm. When the bacterium is trapped between the nail plate and a nail coating, it creates a moist environment in which the bacteria thrives. “The best way to treat greenies is to not,” comments Antonia Catalano, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 20/21. “As nail technicians, it is not in our remit to treat unhealthy nails and in fact you aren’t covered by your insurance if you do so. “It was once thought that when product was removed and the ‘greenie’ was exposed to oxygen that it would die, leaving it safe to apply product. However, new research tells us that this is not the case, pseudomonas can in fact live with or without oxygen, so we must not apply product over it. Antonia Catalano

“Although as a nail technician there is nothing we can do to treat pseudomonas, we can help our client to care for their nails at home while they wait for it to grow out. Encourage them to leave the nail bare, maintain good hand hygiene and apply nail oil regularly.” NSI Nurture Oil from £4.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Astonishing Nails Organic Argan Oil from £1.35 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

What to do if a ‘greenie’ enters your salon: • Ask the client to thoroughly wash their hands and use sanitiser. • Remove all product carefully and safely. Protect yourself by wearing gloves, using adequate dust collection/extraction and wear a mask suitable for working with fine dust, such as an N95 or FFP3. Working cleanly will help prevent cross-contamination to other clients. • Never be tempted to file away the ‘greenie’ from the affected nail plate, as this will encourage fine dust particles containing the bacteria to float in your breathing space and fall on surrounding surfaces. • Thoroughly sanitise and disinfect your work area and any tools used and ask the client to wash and sanitise their hands again. • The client should then be referred to their GP or a professional for an actual diagnosis and treatment. The infection should be allowed to grow out before any nail coatings can be applied.

How to reduce the risk of greenies Be rigorous with your hygiene protocols, ensure that you practice good nail prep to avoid lifting of nail coatings, and educate your clients so that they understand the importance of not leaving it too long between appointments. Otherwise, this can lead to service breakdown and points of entry for pesky pseudomonas! Mundo Sanitising Hand & Foot Spray £6.95 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk

OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil £5.90 + VAT/RRP £12.80 www.opiuk.com

“The most common problem I have seen since returning to work is broken, dry skin and brittle nails due to increased use of drying anti-bac gel. I’ve also seen an increase in brittle nails due to clients removing their enhancements themselves and causing damage.” Sarah Vernon, Pure Nails educator

44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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NATURALNAILCARE

Hormonal changes Hormonal changes like pregnancy and menopause can have a positive or negative impact on the condition of the hair, skin and nails. It is worth noting any hormonal changes your client may be experiencing on the client consultation card so you can be aware of any effects that may be seen and make appropriate suggestions to compensate.

Pregnancy

Menopause

A manicure or pedicure can be a really luxurious treatment for a mother-to-be, as they often suffer from swollen feet, so a pamper is a welcome and beneficial treatment. However, there are a few things you must consider when treating pregnant clients.

When addressing the needs of women in the menopause, it will depend on their age and the stage they are currently moving through. In the early stages, you many not see much of a change, however, those moving towards the later stages can present thickening of the nails and ridges.

“Pregnant ladies normally experience extremes when they are expecting. They either have the most amazing, strongest nails they have ever had, or their nails become incredibly brittle,” reveals Dani Bailey, OPI Nail Boss. “If they are strong, I recommend they Dani Bailey keep the same treatments they had before if comfortable or treat them using techniques for brittle nails.”

“One of the most common nail problems caused by the menopause is brittleness. This is due to hormone imbalances and dehydration caused by dropping levels of oestrogen. The hormone oestrogen contributes to regulating your body’s water levels,” states Jenni Draper, manicurist & creative expert at Louella Belle. Jeni Draper “The best way to treat menopausal nails is through regular manicures with lots of moisturising oils. Nail polish will add a layer of protection, but avoid acetone as it’s very drying and will strip the nails of good oils.

“If a client is pregnant, I always double check any ingredients or manufacturer guidelines before using any products to ensure I keep them and the baby safe at all times, especially in the first trimester,” reveals Clare Hooson, Footlogix educator.

Clare Hooson

Mii Care + Caress Hand Serum £14.50 + VAT/RRP £29 www.miicosmetics.com

“Encourage your client to do their homecare routine twice daily; applying skin and hand creams and cuticle oil. Encourage them to wear rubber gloves to protect from harsh chemicals and cleaning products. Advise them to include foods in their diet that are rich in essential fatty acids, such as fish, avocado and almonds. Supplements including vitamin C, E, omega 3 and calcium are highly recommended. Most importantly drink plenty of water!”

INK London Fresh Cuticle Oil £2.08 + VAT www.inknails.com

‘ SKIN ManiPedi Peacci Cream £6.50 + VAT www.peacci.com

Jessica Nourish Therapeutic Cuticle Cream £7.55 + VAT/RRP £14.75 www.gerrardinternational.com

Ridges

Dina Gohil

Lucy Sharman

Elim Cuticle MD £7.30 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Ridges on nails are longitudinal lines with little bumps and are usually associated with circulatory problems, age or can be caused by the menopause. Buffing them will thin the nail plate so this should be avoided where possible.

CND™ RidgeFX £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.sweetsquared.com

“A full medical history would shed light on any underlying problems or medications that may be the cause of any change in the nails, if any,” comments Dina Gohil, CEO of DG Podiatry. “The nail is then reduced and smoothed when applicable to reduce risk of catching, splitting and causing more pressure on the nail bed.” “While it doesn’t treat the underlying problem, keeping your nails hydrated with cream or oil can minimise the appearance of ridging and protect the keratin of the nail,” relays Lucy Sharman, Elim Pedi Pro.

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Light Elegance Q&Lu Spa Oil £14.95 + VAT/RRP £34.95 www.sweetsquared.com


NATURALNAILCARE

Brittle nails

Brittle nails lack moisture are dry and hard. While they may seem strong, they are actually quite fragile and are more prone to breaking. “Some people may naturally have more brittle nails, especially if their skin and hair tends to be dry,” states Metta Francis, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 20/21. “The natural process of ageing can also contribute to brittle nails; as we get older, collagen, elasticity and moisture levels decline and nails may become thicker, vertical grooves (ridges) may appear and nails become less flexible. Metta Francis

“Overuse of nail strengtheners and hardeners can also make nails brittle, as can wearing more permanent nail coatings, as moisture cannot reach the natural nail so easily.” “The best way to treat brittle nails is moisture! To counteract the dryness and provide flexibility to nails, daily and regular Grapeseed Carrier application of an Oil £3.65 + VAT oil-based treatment www.salonserve.com to nails is required. Morgan Taylor React Max This will help inject Satin Nail Strengthener a dose of long-lasting £7.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk moisture to the nails, conditioning them and making them less likely to break.” Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil £4.99 + VAT/RRP £9.99 www.gsgroupuk.com

Focus on: Ingredients

Brittle nails require good quality and complementary ingredients that can penetrate the nails. Oils such as vitamin E, jojoba, avocado and grapeseed work well together as they have varying molecule sizes, penetrating different layers of the nails. Specific nail oils work best for treating brittle nails as other oils may be more beneficial for the skin and may not be absorbed into the nails.

Leukonychia

“One of the most common nail conditions with my clients is leukonychia (white spots on the nail),” says Salon System expert, Jaz Moger. “These are normally harmless and most commonly caused by minor injuries or trauma to the nail such as biting, tapping or picking off gel polish.

Jaz Moger

“If the trauma is deep within the nail, you would need to buff off too many layers to remove the white spots, further damaging the nail so it’s best to give the spots a gentle buff and wait for the spots to grow out with the nail growth. “While they are growing out, I’d recommend using a cuticle oil daily. Cuticle oil is the best way to prevent white spots appearing on the nails in the first place as it helps to hydrate and strengthen the natural nail. Regular manicures and pedicures too will help prevent minor nail damage and keep the nails in good condition.” Salon System Gellux Nail & Cuticle Oil £4.35 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Product spotlight: IBX treatment IBX is a two-part system that acts as a protective shield for the natural nail, as well as a nail strengthening system, designed to treat, protect and repair damaged nails. The penetrative toughening system works inside IBX Duo Pack £34.95 + VAT the nail and forms an www.louellabelle.co.uk interpenetrating polymer network that fuses the upper layers of the nail together. Laura Chree, Louella Belle brand ambassador, shares an IBX treatment testimonial when treating a client… “A client had caught her acrylic overlay while cleaning and cracked her nail right across, with the lower portion still attached and the enhancement coming off at the Nails by Tabby Casto. time of injury. Usually this client has no issues with her enhancements and has very healthy nails, however this was now compromised. I removed excessively loose parts of the natural nail and applied IBX Strength & Repair twice. Repair fused the loose layers of the nail and Strength penetrated the nail, providing the flexibility and structure it desperately required.” Image courtesy of Louella Belle brand ambassador, Tabby Casto.

Cancer treatment

“During active cancer treatment, the nails can become unstable. Therefore, I would offer a CND™ Vinylux™ manicure as it can be removed quickly and easily should Susan McGirl there be an issue. If you’re ever in doubt as to whether you should carry out a treatment, always ask the client to clear it with their medical professional before you proceed,” reveals CND™ educator, Susan McGirl. “With cancer treatment, I see the most noticeable changes when the client is undergoing chemotherapy. I normally ask them to clear any enhancements with their doctor first; and for some, any coating can become contra-indicated as onycholysis is very common in cancer patients. Therefore, plain manicure services, short nails and cuticle oil are the best solution,” says Dani Bailey, OPI Nail Boss. CND™ SolarOil Care Pen

£4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.sweetsquared.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

>>


NATURALNAILCARE

Diabetic dealings

“Care must always be taken when dealing with any client but in particular those with diabetes. The diabetic client may be prone to foot issues depending on the severity of their condition and may need referring to a podiatrist,” states CNDTM educator, Susan McGirl. “Diabetic clients are more prone to infection, so you have to be very gentle and avoid anything that can scratch or injure the skin. You can soak the feet to soften the skin to give you more flexibility but avoid nipping the cuticle area, instead push back with your cuticle tool. You can use a pumice stone but avoid vigorous rubbing,” says Lucy Sharman, Elim Pedi Pro. “Diabetic clients can be treated in a salon as long as there is no infection, ulcers or neuropathy,” reveals Teresa Frake, head trainer at LCN. “Gentle moisturising products are used for clients who suffer from diabetes, they tend to have drier skin and sometimes cannot feel the difference between hot and cold. If carrying out Teresa Frake a wet pedicure, ensure the water in the foot bath is not too hot before your client immerses their feet in it.”

Medication

“Medication may or may not affect the nails but if the client suddenly develops issues with their nails and it coincides with a change in medication, then this should be noted on the client card. The service should then be modified or changed to accommodate this,” revealed CNDTM educator, Susan McGirl.

Thinning

Over-filing can cause thinning of the nail plate; if the nail plate is thinned too much, it cannot properly protect the delicate tissue that is underneath and so can lead to damage. Consider filing the surface of the nail plate as little as possible, using only a fine abrasive and avoid using a heavy hand. It’s so important to make sure you are not over-filing the natural nail and that you also give correct aftercare for the client to refer to, including returning to the salon for the proper removal of product.

Homecare

With the nail industry under lockdown, clients were left to treat their own nails at home, leaving many to experiment with various techniques such as removing enhancements. Many have not kept up a homecare routine, so returned to the salon with an abundance of nail needs and damaged nails. “Since reopening my salon, I have noticed a lot of clients suffering from weak and fragile nails, which are peeling due to trying out at-home gel kits (against professional advice) and incorrect removal of product. Correct removal is key to keeping nails healthy and strong. I advise my clients to Charlotte Cliff follow all aftercare and regularly apply cuticle oil to their nails to keep them as hydrated as possible,” reveals Charlotte Cliff, The Gel Bottle brand ambassador. “The most common condition I’ve seen in the salon since reopening is damaged nail plates due to a combination of home gel kit application and subsequent home removal,” affirms CND™ educator, Susan McGirl. “If there isn’t too much damage, I’ll apply an appropriate coating and with care and client cooperation the damage will grow out. “With excessive damage, I advise the client to use CND RescueRXx™ multiple times daily as an intensive restorative and conditioning treatment. Once the nail is healthier, then the appropriate service can be carried out. “Residual damage from picking or biting off nail coatings is a perpetual problem, and this has been exacerbated by the availability of CND Rescue RXx™ £8.95 home gel polish kits, + VAT/RRP £20.95 which some clients www.sweetsquared.com have purchased during lockdown. There is also an ongoing issue with OPI Nail Envy Original dry/ dehydrated nail £9.70 + VAT/RRP £20.50 plates from sanitiser www.opiuk.com use. Both can be remedied by using CND SolarOil™ daily on dry and dehydrated nails or CND Rescue RXx™ used multiple times daily on damaged nails.”

Nail biting (onychophagy)

Nail biting is a common habit that people do when they are anxious and in some situations, many clients may choose to visit a professional to help put an end to the habit or to improve the appearance of their nails. With anxiety rates high, nail professionals are finding nail biters to be common in the salon. In some cases, nail biting could simply be triggered by dry skin, hangnails or snags in the nail; in which case a good manicure, regular use of cuticle oil, hand cream and an overlay may help to break the habit. You must not work on the nails if the surrounding skin is inflamed, sore or bleeding. When discussing treatment options with a nail biting client, it is important to manage expectations while communicating professionally.

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

From Disney designs to abstract delights; Colchester’s GEORGINA DUFFY shares her favourite nail creations & industry story so far…

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Georgina Duffy Age – 27 years Business name – When Beauty Calls By Georgina Location – Colchester, Essex Years in nails – Nine years Trained with – A number of brands, including with Gelish soak-off gel polish, which is my go-to system. Fav products – My trusty liner brush, Brillbird Brush & Go Colour Gel, nail art flakes and decals. Fav nail technique – I love marbling with inks, as it’s a simple technique that produces such effective results. Fav nail design – Anything Disney related! I also enjoy creating abstract designs for everyday nails. Career ambition & vision – I’m currently focused on building the business back up following three lockdowns. I speak openly regarding my mental health

and believe that while it’s important to have goals, you should also appreciate your achievements to date. Unnecessary pressure will just ignite negativity. I’d love to have more self confidence but that takes time, so I live in the moment and feel hopeful that my confidence will grow. I’m working on my social media platforms as I want to gain greater recognition in the nail world, and I’m delighted to work with brands and companies that I am passionate about. I hope that within the next five to 10 years I will have a separate working space; maybe a cabin or similar in my garden. Who do you admire in the industry? There is a huge list of techs who inspire me; and each influence me for different reasons. Here are the Instagram handles of a few of the queens I admire: @EnchantedNailsByKellie, @lbebeauty, @lotteclarknails, @sophrainbownails, @charsgelnails, @dream_nails_ewa, @giulisnails, @emily_meraki, @dymenails, @letzgelwithmeg, @anouskaanastasia and @nailz_by_dev. /whenbeautycallsbygeorgina @whenbeautycallsbygeorgina

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51


Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

Points to note if you’re considering going cashless

NHBF finance director, Kishon Mather

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Kishon Mather as the finance director, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-for-profit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

H

ave you ever thought about going cashless in your business? It’s been a hot topic for a while as cashless payments may help to prevent the spread of coronavirus, but there are pros and cons – and you’ll also need to think about how you handle tips.

Accepting card payments You will need a merchant account to accept payments by card. You should ask your bank for advice, but also shop around to compare transaction costs.

Pros and cons At the moment, it’s best practice to ask clients to pay by card – preferably contactless. The maximum amount is currently £45, but this is expected to rise to £100 later this year. Remember to always sanitise the payment device between clients and wash your hands after each payment has been taken.

Contactless payments are fast and secure, with money going into your account by BACS typically within three working days. In addition to card machines, you can also put in place systems to accept card payments online or over the phone.

“You could ask clients to add tips to their contactless or card payment, but don’t forget that this affects how tips are dealt with from a tax and National Insurance point of view.”

As well as being more hygienic, cashless payments also have the following advantages: • Payment transactions are usually faster than taking cash and sorting out change. • Less cashing up at night. • Less need for trips to the bank to make deposits or get change. • Less likely that accounting mistakes will be made as cashless payments are recorded automatically. • You and your team may feel safer if there is less cash on the premises.

Tips for tipping

Your employees should each have a slotted container for tips that is regularly sanitised. Hands should be washed after handling the container or the money in it. You could ask clients to add tips to their contactless or card payment, but don’t forget that this affects how tips are dealt with from a tax and National Insurance point of view. NHBF members can download a free fact sheet on how to deal with tips via www.nhbf.co.uk/tipping.

What the law says However, there may be disadvantages to going completely cashless. For example, you may wish to continue supporting clients who for various reasons prefer to pay in cash, while interruptions to your electricity or internet connection may mean that there are periods of time when you cannot take payments. www.nhbf.co.uk /nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

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If you accept cash, always sanitise any surfaces where cash has been placed before it is stored in your till. Keep your till sanitised too, especially if it is used by different members of staff.

It is against the law to charge your clients extra for paying by credit card, debit card or via methods such as PayPal. This means you have to absorb the costs of offering card payment, or consider: • Increasing your prices to help cover the cost (these prices must apply to all clients whichever payment method they use). • Negotiate lower fees with your financial services provider. Find out more about going cashless via www.nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-payments


FROM THE GELBOTTLE INC

Achieving CULT STATUS BIAB™ IS CONTINUING TO SHAKE UP THE NAIL INDUSTRY

Ten empowering NEW SHADES OUR BEST SELLING R A N G E AS YO U H AV E NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE!

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W H AT ’ S YO U R S U P E R P O W E R ? The best selling BIABTM range as you’ve never seen it before! Introducing our brand new collection featuring ten empowering new BIABTM colours, each embodying a strength within us all. The new shades expand the BIABTM range into a gorgeous brighter colour palette including a dusky mauve, cool-toned lilac and a stunning fiery orange-coral. From Spirited to Kind, Passionate to Bold, invite your clients to pick their superpower and let BIAB transform their nails, leaving them strong, resilient and ready to take on the world.

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WHY BIAB ? T H E I N N OVAT I V E P R O D U C T T H AT H AS N A I L T E C H S A R O U N D T H E W O R L D TA L K I N G . Innovative BIAB™ aka Builder In A Bottle is the cult product that nail techs globally adore. This incredible range of soak off builder gels are ideal for sculpting and creating strong overlays. A true multi-tasking product that is perfect for natural nails as well as creating short to medium extensions, with a non-chipping formulation that ensures manicures last. Plus, this one of a kind formula keeps natural nails strong, whilst promoting long-lasting nail health, a game changer, shaking up the nail industry. With a variety of nude and new bold shades to choose from, simply finish off your manicure with your favourite TGB Top Coat. D I S C OV E R T H E F U L L B I A B T M R A N G E AT T H E G E L B O T T L E . C O M


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BECOME A TGB PRO Whether you’re looking to become a qualified nail tech or to advance your skills, you can experience world class Guild accredited training with TGB Academy. From our 3 day Full GelBottle Course to improving specific techniques such as Gel Extensions, there’s a course to suit everyones needs.

Book your course now at tgbacademy.com or find more info at @tgbacademy


SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole

Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

SDS Nails & Beauty Location: Solihull, West Midlands

As Sophie Shuttleworth’s business grew, lockdown presented the opportunity to create her ideal workspace. “I asked my friends, who are experienced builders, to build me a custom studio in my garden,” she smiles. “My aim was to give my clients a salon experience with a personable, home salon feel.” Measuring 12m squared, the cabin is compact and cosy. “It fits everything I could need perfectly,” Sophie beams. “I believe I am currently one of the only nail professionals in my area that is based in a garden build. “I had the best of everything during the construction. The studio is fully insulated, plastered inside with spotlights inside and outside lighting. It has a fibreglass roof and bi-fold doors, which can be opened for a wonderful airy feel in the summer. Composite cladding was used rather than it just being a standard timber build, so a lot of thought went into the design.” On the inside, clients can find a tranquil space in which to unwind. “I wanted a minimal ‘White Company’ vibe,” Sophie explains. “My aim was to create a space that was clean and stylish, but most importantly, relaxing.

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

“Clients regularly comment on how peaceful they find the space. It’s a little botanical haven in which they can unwind, offload if they need to and leave with pretty nails. It’s everything I dreamed of and I’m so proud of it!” @sdsnailsandbeauty_x

Soluna Beauty Studio Location: Langdon Hills, Basildon, Essex

After working in the fashion industry for a number of years, Chloe Burridge wanted to make a change and forge a career in the beauty sector – and saw her chance during lockdown. “Being put on furlough for most of the year gave me the push I needed to open my own studio,” Chloe explains. Soluna Beauty Studio is based in a converted garage at the end of Chloe’s garden. “Based on my clients’ reactions, it was definitely the right thing to do,” Chloe smiles. The white walls act as a clean backdrop for the touches of colour added throughout the studio. “The lilac feature wall was chosen based on my branding,” Chloe continues. “Soluna means ‘sun and moon’ and is of Spanish origin, and I have the name stencilled on the wall. I love touches of gold, so I knew this would be brought into the theme.” Chloe believes that it’s the little things in her studio that make all the difference. “The small touches are really important to me,” she enthuses. “I spent a lot of time trying to find the right additions for the studio, including pops of colour in the décor, such as my chair and dressed shelves. “I love every part of my salon. It’s a space in which I can be creative and enjoy every minute. And it’s only a few skips away from my house!” /SolunaBeautyStudio

@solunabeautystudio SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59


COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

At your SERVICE

It’s the one-stop-shop for nail necessaries & it’s had a stellar makeover! Get to know the story behind Salonserve…

I

HELENA BIGGS REPORTS

remember the Salonserve catalogue hitting my desk in my early days at Scratch, and I used to pore over its pages of tools, nail tekking essentials, furniture and the products that techs never knew they needed – but ultimately made a huge difference to their day-to-day. Fast forward a number of years and the company is still servicing the needs of nail and beauty pros – albeit with a brand new look and even bigger product portfolio. Established in 1994, Claire Kettell heads up the company and has steered its new direction, diversifying the line to offer its own brand of gel polish, Gelease, as well as PPE and hygiene products, an eco-friendly range and the opportunity for small businesses to add their own branding to core products.

A new home

“I took a keen interest in the professional beauty world at the age of 21 and Claire Kettell founded a company manufacturing a niche hair removal product; Zahra Sugaring,” Claire reveals. “It was a baptism of fire, running a company supplying a specialist product at such a young age, but I loved every minute of it.” Claire ran the company and developed the brand for five years, and during that time she noted that she needed to share a greater number of niche products to a wider market.

A growing company warrants a bigger premises, and the team has moved to a modern high bay 30,000 sq ft warehouse in Northamptonshire with updated picking systems and an open plan office.

“In 2000, I started developing other products under the Salonserve brand and quickly gathered a loyal following. The company ethos has always been to supply quality products at a great price; we invest in the ingredients and cut down on the packaging.”

“There are employees at Salonserve that have been at the company for over 19 years,” Claire smiles. “Lyn works in our picking and packing department and there is nothing she doesn’t know about a product we’ve sold! Our production manager, Tina, is the backbone of keeping us stocked up. It’s tough at the moment with so many raw material shortages, but it’s very rare we have a Salonserve branded product out of stock.

Challenges & evolution Personal circumstances forced Claire to step back from the business for three and a half years, during which time she connected with nature and started to plan for the future of Salonserve. “Previously, I was a workaholic. I overextended both at work and at home so this, coupled with an unhappy marriage and never having a break, meant I was a ball of stress,” Claire reveals. “Being the work martyr meant I couldn’t see the big picture, but I altered my focus and gained greater control of my company. I was raring to go – and then Covid-19 hit. “Our amazing industry was forced to close its doors and I had just a small trickle of business coming through. I furloughed the staff and took over every phone call. It was great to reconnect with all of our clients and, as everyone was out of work, nearly every call became a lovely chat – and I got to hear what salon owners were going through and what they needed from a supplier.” The Salonserve branding has been revamped and Claire believes that it reflects the brand’s personality; down-to-earth, playful and light. A comprehensive and easy-to-use online store has been set up, and the Salonserve team makes contact with its customers each month with the ‘Catch up with Salonserve’ newsletter, packed with special offers and articles. 60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Our artwork and marketing department design and print labels in-house and the website and social media platforms are looked after by us, so we can react to market changes quickly. “I want our clients to be treated how I would like to be treated,” Claire affirms. “There are so many individuals that devote their time to care for others and it pleases me to know that we supply products that help them deliver a service that makes someone feel good about themselves.”


COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

PRODUCT PICKS

“We offer everything a salon needs to trade, from disposables to our own brand of gel polish, luxurious manicure products and unique aromatherapy products,” reveals Claire. “Salons are so busy and so Salonserve tries to make life a little easier as a one-stop-shop for quality products that allow professionals to make a healthy profit.” Since 2002, Salonserve has specialised in nail products, and over half of its range is committed to the needs of nail techs. “We offer a vast range of nail art products and quality implements as well as our own branded manicure and pedicure ranges based on botanical extracts,” Claire continues. “In 2016, after two years of research and development, we launched Gelease gel polish. “In the last year, we have recognised that salons are more environmentally aware and want to use more sustainable products, especially as so many disposables are having to be used in the workplace. We are, where possible, introducing bamboo and recycled paper across hair and make-up brushes and disposable products. We’re really pleased to see salons choosing to use eco-friendly products.”

DID YOU KNOW…?

“Where possible, we try to save on packaging by re-using all our boxes,” Claire reveals. “We know it’s not so pretty, but eight million cardboard boxes end up in landfill every year, so we’re trying to do our best to help reduce this. We also use the more environmentally friendly green fill chips for packing instead of polystyrene chips.”

Best seller

Salonserve’s best-selling nail product is the Rich Cuticle Oil from its own range of Sweet Sensations products. It’s packed with essential oils to hydrate and can be labelled with a salon’s own branding.

EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER!

Scratch readers can get 10% OFF their first order with Salonserve with promo code SCRATCH at www.salonserve.com. www.salonserve.com

/salonserve

@Salonserve

@salonserve SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61


Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

S

ummer is well and truly here and to celebrate, I thought it was time to share some good news stories. I’ve talked at length about the effects that the past year has had on the beauty and nail sectors, but what about the positives?

Reaching new audiences

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness. Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments in which employees can enjoy working. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

JOIN MY FREE FACEBOOK SUPPORT GROUP

My Stress & Anxiety Support group on Facebook specifically supports those working in the nail and beauty sectors. Join for one-to-one support as well as group support and subsidised training courses and bespoke training. Scan here to sign up or find out more

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

@daveheffernanltd

62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

One of the key things that I learned in 2020 was how to diversify my messaging to reach new and wider audiences. It’s actually how I ended up working within the nail industry in the first place! And I’m not alone in this journey. After speaking with many of you, it seems that Instagram, Facebook and TikTok were well used during the pandemic, with many of you learning new skills to share with your followers and finding fun new ways to show off your skills. A huge number of you found that your bookings were up more than 50% when you were finally able to return to work in April, and this is a great testament to the work you put into your social platforms during those colder, quieter months.

Widening your skillset Another key advantage that many people are reporting was that they had time to learn new skills and increase customer offerings. When you’re self-employed especially, it can be really hard to find the time to learn – so time was one of the few saving graces of the pandemic. It also afforded a great opportunity for those with skills to impart their knowledge and keep up some form of income during what was an incredibly challenging time.

Remembering why you do it One of the recurring themes that I’ve found when speaking to people within the nail industry is how much they missed their jobs when they weren’t able to work. For many, this gave them a real confidence boost when it came to remembering why they chose to work in nails and the pleasure they get from making other people feel special.

Sometimes when we do the same thing day in, day out, we forget what it was that led us down this path in the first place. The beauty industry was one of many that was consistently in the news for being ‘left behind’ by government, and it sometimes felt as though there was little interest in the work that nail professionals do. Now that you’re back in business, I’ve heard from many how quickly this feeling melted away as clients eagerly booked their appointments, desperate to see you and feel pampered again. It’s a true testament to the work you do to see bookings come rolling back in again and the happy, smiling faces of your clients as they leave the salon.

Looking forward to the future While we have seen that there’s no telling what is around the corner in life, I think we can all give ourselves a huge pat on the back for coming out the other side of the pandemic more prepared for what the future has to hold. On a personal level, I’m happy that I can look back on all that I’ve achieved during the past year and be proud that I grabbed many opportunities with both hands, even when I wasn’t sure where they were going to lead me. I have recently qualified as a hypnotherapist and am looking forward to utilising my new skills to help even more people who are seeking guidance and support when it comes to their mental health. While I wanted to make this article a positive one, I’m always aware that there are people out there who are still struggling. Whether it’s relating to their business, health, family life or anything else, I urge you to reach out for help. We are not alone in this world, and talking about your problems is the first step to resolving them. My door is always open for anyone who needs a caring and nonjudgemental ear. Always remember to be kind to yourself and remind yourself how far you’ve already come.


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NAILCOMPETITION

r e d i s n 5i o t s p ti r u o y ace entry

Shoot to score the big points in Scratch’s annual photographic competition with tips to ensure your entry stands out…

1. Be unique

In order to catch the judges’ eyes, your entry needs to stand out with an original concept. The judges want to see something new and exciting – and as the competition doesn’t have an entry theme, you can be as creative as you like!

: S E S O CL Y R T 21 N 0 E 2 t s gu u A 1 T 3 M G @ 5pm

Your entry’s theme or concept should be clear in its message; think about what you want your image to ‘say’. Having a clear idea will ensure a united, strong shot, as well as help you share and communicate your concept to your team. Stay on theme and in line with your concept in every aspect of the creative process.

“The judges want to see something new and exciting – and as the competition doesn’t have an entry theme, you can be as creative as you like! “

2. Collaboration is key

Behind the scenes at Ivana Prokic’s photo shoot for her 2020 winning entry

As the pandemic meant many artistic professionals across various sectors downed tools, there’s a wealth of creatives out there chomping at the bit to join a team and get their creative juices flowing while collaborating with other beauty professionals. Your entry will require a professional finish, so consider assembling a team consisting of a photographer, model, make-up artist and hair stylist as your concept requires. When selecting, review their past work and discuss your budget to ensure clarity. On the shoot day, listen to everyone. Creativity comes from collaboration. After all, one team member may have spotted something that may affect the finished image that you haven’t!

64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK


NAILCOMPETITION COMPETITION

3. Think like a winner The Shoot Out section on the Scratch website has plenty of advice and tips to help you nail your entry. From interviews to handy guides, scan the below QR codes to access just a few of the features currently available.

Watch an interview with Ivana Prokic, 2020 & 2019 winner

4. Know the criteria Pay close attention to the rules and know the criteria your entry will be scrutinised against by Scratch’s editorial and art teams.

üInstant impact: Does your image have a ‘wow’ factor that commands attention? üOriginality of concept: Is your theme and image striking? Is it unusual and creative?

Read our entry checklist

üExecution of concept: From the styling to your model’s nails, has the whole look been well executed?

üClarity of photograph and nails: Is your image clear and completely in focus? Are the nails well photographed? Is the whole image finished with post-production tweaks?

Check out an interview with Nina Lewis, 2019 winner

üUse of colour and lighting: Does the lighting fit your theme and ensure the image makes an impact?

üNail finish: Is your nail design finished to perfection? Check that nails are even in shape and form and pay close attention to the cuticles and surrounding skin.

üNail design: Does your nail design fit with your theme? How have you brought your concept to life?

Check out the previous entries for research

üModel, pose and positioning: Consider your model’s pose and hands –

does it draw the eye to your nail design? Is your model a great fit for your concept?

üOverall styling: Look at the entire image. From the hair to the make-up to the costume, has every detail been considered?

üCover worthiness: Could you see your image on a magazine over? If so, you might just have a winning shot!

5. Submit it!

Be brave and go for it! Before hitting the ‘submit’ button, take a close look at the image beside the criteria. Are you happy with the crop? Has the image been refined to your satisfaction at the retouching stage? Check your entry is high-resolution and cropped to a 10:8 aspect. When your entry is ready to be submitted, head over to the Scratch website. Via the online form, you can upload your entry and pay.

#ScratchShootOut www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/the-great-scratch-shoot-out /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

“Your entry will require a professional finish, so consider assembling a team consisting of a photographer, model, make-up artist and hair stylist. When selecting, review their past work and discuss your budget to ensure clarity.”

Scan here to enter

@scratchmagazine SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 65


SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

GROW & GLOW WITH

e i d d a M TOP TIPS FOR EFFECTIVE MANAGEMENT OF A BUSY SALON

W

orking in a busy salon can be challenging at times. There are many roles to juggle and many things that need your attention but you must keep on top of customer service. Without clients, there would be no salon, so it’s extremely important to keep them happy. What’s more, we have found that one of the biggest advertisements for our salon is word of mouth promotion. If you can make your clients happy as soon as they come through the door, even if they’re just stopping by for a patch test, then this is a huge achievement. If the client leaves feeling unseen or uncomfortable, this can prevent them from coming back. What’s more, that client could tell five friends (who then tell another five friends each) about their bad experience. It is so important to ensure your client is happy.

Talented salon tech, nail artist & educator, MADDIE REGAN, shares her advice on salon matters to help your business bloom… Salon organisation is not an easy task by any means – let alone in a busy setup! At 81 Rose Garden, we find that the one thing we have to keep on top of most is cleaning and ordering supplies. No one wants to walk into an unclean space and even if you think clients may not notice, trust me, they will! Sitting down at a cluttered station that hasn’t been fully cleaned will not make a great impression or help your client feel comfortable. Ordering supplies can become difficult in the busier periods. When we’ve introduced new products or taken on more staff, not everything runs out at the same time of the week or month. One way we’ve found to tackle this is to order the main products we use every two weeks. This order includes the basics: files, base acrylic colours and liquid, as well as top and base coats. For the rest, we have a list that everyone adds to when they are coming to the end of something.

“Speeding up appointment times comes with practice; the more you Time management should be another practice, the quicker you Lastly, don’t forget yourself. We spend so key focus. We’ve all run behind with time making others feel and look become. Don’t overthink. much a client in some way, whether they’ve beautiful that we forget about ourselves shown up with polish that won’t budge or simply don’t have time. I always The more you overthink, forgot or enhancements that need soaking off to book myself in for appointments, or repairing. The client may be indecisive but it’s important we do so that we feel the slower you about their colour choice or have requested may become.” amazing, too! a time-consuming nail design, which can be very stressful, especially when your next client is watching you finish the appointment with your current client. In this situation, it’s best to keep communicating. If you know you are running behind or that the appointment may take you a bit longer, ask another team member or receptionist to call your next client. Alternatively, drop them a message to apologise and ask if they could arrive slightly later. Time management is key to keeping a salon running smoothly and reducing pressure on yourself. If your appointments keep running over, it’s important to take a closer look at how you manage your diary.

We all need some self-care. In this busy industry, it’s important to take a break from work and switch off from your phone and social media accounts. Let your mind rest! Take care,

Maddie x www.81rosegarden.com

If the design the client has selected is not viable in their appointment time, tell your client that you don’t have enough time or that you don’t feel fully confident. Suggest something similar but simpler. Speeding up appointment times comes with practice; the more you practice, the quicker you become. Don’t overthink. The more you overthink, the slower you may become. 66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/81RoseGarden

@maddisonrosenails & @81rosegarden

Are you interested in training with Maddie at The Nail Academy at 81 Rose Garden? Email salon manager, Sam Wetwood: sam@81rosegarden.com.


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BUSINESSMATTERS

Best friends in

BUSINESS Scratch puts the spotlight on dynamic nail duos & teams & uncovers the secret to a successful business partnership… NAMES: Rebe a Costeo & Je ifer McLaughlin BUSINESS: Elixir Lounge, Paisley, Scotland

NAMES: Catriona Leith & Bec Goulding BUSINESS: The Nail Studio, Cambridge Team dynamics: “We have been friends for years and have always had an honest relationship,” the duo comments. Cat works as a nail technician and educator, and Becky hones a branding and marketing L-R: Catriona Leith background. After having her son, & Becky Goulding Becky started up a social media & marketing business and Cat saw this as an opportunity to support her friend and also grow her own business.

Team dynamics: Rebekka is the salon owner and Jennifer is the manager. “From Jennifer’s interview, we both felt like we already knew each other,” comments Rebekka. “Clients think we are sisters!” The duo admits to having a few disagreements over the years with Rebekka playing ‘good cop’ and Jennifer ‘bad cop’ with the salon team. “However, we talk any disagreement through,” they admit.

“We have a huge amount of respect for each other’s expertise. There is always another viewpoint and having this stance allows us to ensure that the business gets the best input from us both.”

Top tip: “We never finish a day in a bad mood and resolve things before the end of each day. We have such a good relationship because we can be totally open and honest with each other.”

Top tip: “Never go into business with someone you do not trust. There’s financial and personal investment in having your own business and when working with a friend there is potentially a lot to risk, so take time to evaluate it properly.”

www.elixir-lounge.co.uk

www.thenailstudiocambridge.co.uk

L-R: Rebekka Costello & Jennifer McLaughlin

@elixir.lounge

NAMES: Ilex W d & Je ica Haith BUSINESS: The Nail Gaery Bawtry, Doncaster

@thenailstudiocb

Team dynamics: “We worked together in a salon but when L-R: Ilex Wood it closed, we needed to find & Jessica Haith a solution quickly. Our work ethics, friendship and professional chemistry meant that we didn’t want to work anywhere else or apart, so we opened our own salon.” Top tip: “Never take work home: if there is an issue, deal with it immediately. We are chalk and cheese, but we respect each other’s ideas and our visions. You need to see each other as equal partners and know when to separate business from friendship. If there is something we disagree on, we come to a compromise that is usually better than the original idea!” www.thenailgallerybawtry.com

@thenailgallery_bawtry

NAMES: Julie Heron & Patricia Rennie BUSINESS: Nails N Stuff, Cowdenbeath, Fife, Scotland Team dynamics: “We started talking on Facebook and instantly hit it off. Our first phone call was over four hours long without us even realising. We’ve been glued to each other since and joined forces to start our own training academy. We both have very different skills, which complement each other.” Top tip: “We stand side by side with each other, not one in front or one behind. We both have very similar outlooks career wise and have a pact that if we don’t completely agree on something, we look at different options.” Julie Heron

Patricia Rennie

68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/nailseightytwo

/TriciaRennieNailArtist


BUSINESSMATTERS NAMES: Mairi Duthie & Key Gr nhough BUSINESS: Beautiful Kaos, Brechin, Scotland

NAMES: Louise Vercoe, Ka Mu & Hayley Rew BUSINESS: The Nail Salon & Beau

Centre, St Auste, Cornwa Team dynamics: “Louise is the business owner, while Katy offers nail services and Hayley is a beauty therapist. We have L-R: Louise Vercoe, Katy known each other for a number of years Munn & Hayley Rew and individually, we all deliver something different and can appreciate each other’s strengths without jealousy. This is reflected in the happy and relaxed working environment that we have created for our clients.” Top tip: “The biggest challenge we have faced at the salon is the Covid-19 pandemic. We have all found it difficult to stay positive throughout, but a strong sense of girl power and teamwork has carried us through.”

Team dynamics: “We have been friends for around 12 L-R: Kelly Greenhough years. Last year we decided & Mairi Duthie to team up to open our salon. Mairi is the beauty side and Kelly runs hairdressing. Now we have a team of nine and are expanding.” Top tip: “Be open and honest with each other and your team. Don’t just think of money as the end goal; You need to be happy and healthy. Your team is everything and make sure that each employee knows how much you appreciate and value them.” www.beautifulkaos.co.uk

@beautifulkaos21

www.thenailsalonandbeautycentre.com @thenailsalon_and_beautycentre

NAMES: Megan Brennan & Melissa Wright BUSINESS: Allure Beauty Salon, Hebburn, South Tyneside Team dynamics: “We’ve been best friends since we were 11 at school and now offer lash and nail treatments together in the salon. We make a great team as lots of our clients come in for both treatments in one visit.”

L-R: Megan Brennan & Melissa Wright

NAMES: Rachel Wiis & E a Waites BUSINESS: Rachel Willis Award Winning Nails & Education & Emma Waites Nail Artistry, Middlesbrough

Top tip: “We keep work as work, and our relationship outside as friends. We always stay professional in the salon and have a mutual understanding and respect for each other.” www.allurenails.co.uk

@allure.beautysalon

NAMES: Tita Turner & Elisa Tropea BUSINESS: Unicorn Lab Nail Supply, Melbourne, Australia Team dynamics: “We met through a mutual friend around five years ago and were both working in our own salons at the L-R: Tita Turner time. Over the years, we bonded over our & Elisa Topea love for nails and education as educators for a nail brand.” In early 2020, Tita moved her nail supply store to Preston and she and Elisa spent weeks setting up the shop.

L-R: Rachel Willis & Emma Waites

Team dynamics: Rachel and Emma met around six years ago, when Emma was Rachel’s client. Just over three years ago, Emma decided to change career and trained with Rachel. Shortly after qualifying, Rachel moved premises and sought a nail tech to rent a chair in her nail salon. After a shirt discussion, the duo agreed to start working together in self-employed capacities. Top tip: “The most important thing is to support and champion one another. We are really grateful to have each other; the benefits of working with someone who has the same ethics and values is priceless!” @rw_nail_master

@emmawaitesnailartistry

“We have spent so much time working together since,” the duo explains. “However, not long after opening Unicorn Lab in Preston, Melbourne, we were plunged into lockdown. We were lucky enough to be granted permits to work to fulfil online orders. We were both isolated from much of our friends and family, but we kept high spirits through working together during those months.” www.unicornlab.com.au

@unicornlabnailsupply

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69


INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

POLISHING FOR

progress

Lauren McBride

A Bournemouth-based nail professional is to attempt a Guinness World Record for nail painting in aid of C.R.Y charity. Scratch discovers more…

O

n 6 August 2021, Lauren McBride of Get Nailed will attempt to set the Guinness World Record for the longest artificial nail painting marathon. “My aim is to paint a minimum of 60 nails per hour for a minimum of 24-hours, she reveals. “Although I’m aiming for 72-hours with no sleep, equating to 4320 nails.”

Tiffany Andrews

Not in this for the love of nails alone, Lauren is motivated by a serious cause. “This is going to be a fundraising event for the charity Cardiac Risk in the Young (C.R.Y) in memory of Tiffany Andrews,” shares Lauren. “Tiffany tragically lost her life aged just 15 in April 2019 to a sudden heart attack – despite having a healthy heart and no signs of illness.”

Lauren’s world record attempt will be streamed live via her Facebook page, Get Nailed Bournemouth, at 9am on 6 August, with the marathon commencing at 10am. “I want to do everything I can to help raise awareness and money to support the valuable work of C.R.Y,” Lauren continues. “The more money and awareness we can generate together, the more C.R.Y can make a difference, and I am encouraging my colleagues and nail friends to donate via Tiffany’s JustGiving page.” Tiffany’s mum, Jemma Andrews, is a nail technician and has been mentored by Lauren. She comments: “Tiffany was the eldest of my five children and loved life. She adored her family and was loved by all who met and knew her. She showed compassion to everyone she met. As a family, we want to help others who have suffered such a tragedy and C.R.Y helps to prevent young sudden cardiac deaths through awareness, screening and research. It also supports affected families. “We have been raising funds for C.R.Y since Tiffany passed and I feel honoured and proud that my mentor, Lauren, has been so touched by our story and wants to keep Tiffany’s memory alive. The kindness shown by so many has been invaluable to us as a family and fundraising will help to keep raising awareness for such devastating and tragic events that destroy lives.”

Follow Lauren McBride’s Guinness World Record attempt from 9am on 6 August via www.facebook.com/GetNailedBournemouth 70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

PRODUCT PICK Crystal Parade, provider of crystals for nail artistry, has launched a limited edition Tiffany Nail Art Mix in memory of Tiffany Andrews, with £2 from every mix sold donated to C.R.Y. A Tiffany Craft Kit, featuring over 300 crystals and handy accessories, is £15 + VAT – with 100% of the sale of the kit donated to Tiffany’s JustGiving page. The colours and shapes in the mix have been chosen by Tiffany’s family and each crystal and colour has a meaning behind it. The mix includes: • The Zodiac Light Siam Hearts – as Tiffany is in our hearts • Golden Honey – because Tiffany brought sunshine to everyone she knew • London colours; red, black, smoky grey and silver – because London was one of Tiffany’s favourite cities and she had a large London canvas in these colours above her bed • The Preciosa black teardrops – representing the tears cried • Emerald Green – as Tiffany had beautiful green eyes Available via www.crystalparade.co.uk

To donate to Tiffany’s JustGiving page and raise funds for Cardiac Risk in the Young, visit www.justgiving.com/fundraising/wendy-lee10 or scan here

ABOUT C.R.Y Every week in the UK, at least 12 young people die of undiagnosed heart conditions. Since its formation in 1995, Cardiac Risk in the Young (C.R.Y) has been working to reduce the frequency of young sudden cardiac death (YSCD). C.R.Y supports young people diagnosed with potentially lifethreatening cardiac conditions and offers bereavement support to families affected by YSCD. The organisation promotes and develops heart screening programmes and funds medical research, and publishes and distributes medical information written by leading cardiologists for the general public. C.R.Y funds specialist referral, screening and cardiac pathology services at leading UK hospitals. www.c-r-y.org.uk /cardiacriskintheyoung @cry_uk @cardiacriskintheyoung



EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

The life of a nail salon apprentice Nail salon apprentice, JODY ZIMMERMAN, shares her experience as she takes a hands-on & practical approach to her journey into nails… Salon apprenticeships are proving to be a popular way to enter the nail profession, serving up practical, theoretical and online learning to earn a nationally recognised qualification. As well as gaining day-to-day experience in a salon, nail technician apprentices gain valuable experience working with clients and as part of a functioning business, as well as behind closed doors when training. Jody Zimmerman started a nail technician apprenticeship with the Hampson Beauty Group in Tonbridge, Kent in July 2020 after the pandemic put her career as a performer on hold. With a combination of learning at the Hampson Training Academy and working at Hampson Beauty Clinic, Jody has developed skills in various nail systems as well as learning the theory behind nails. Jody chats to Scratch about what life is like as a nail technician apprentice…

The application

My average day…

I saw the position advertised on social media so got in touch to ask whether it mattered that I had no nail experience. The company explained that I would be given practical training at the Hampson Training Academy in Tonbridge, while I would receive the rest of the apprenticeship tutoring through training provider, Runway Training. The apprenticeship programme through Hampson Beauty Group and Runway Training generally lasts 12 months.

A usual day in the salon normally consists of performing different nail treatments on willing models who pay less than full price in order to make me feel less pressured by the service, and to help improve my confidence. I also help with reception duties to check clients in and meet their needs with patch tests, general enquiries and booking future appointments. Throughout the day, I also check that the team has all the required equipment and products, and I replenish stock and clean treatment rooms for the staff in the salon.

Learning as an apprentice The Hampson Beauty Group (HBG) has a separate training academy (Hampson Training Academy) at which apprentices, new employees and external students are able to train before and during their time at the salon. Through HBG, we are able to work in the salon and also have full days in the training academy so we get the work experience while also getting the one-on-one time to perfect our skills.

DID YOU KNOW?

The provider of an apprenticeship helps the learner to achieve a nationally recognised qualification and provides support for the apprentices and the employers via online resources to complement their learning in the workplace. 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The process of learning a new nail system with Hampson Training Academy is as follows: 1. Online training: Theory, which includes anatomy and physiology, history, health & safety, a step-by-step guide and a tutorial-style video to watch. 2. In person: watching an experienced nail technician perform the treatment on a model, while taking notes. 3. Practical: performing the treatment on a model, with the trainer watching and taking notes. 4. Feedback: Our trainer talks and reads through notes so that we can take on board and make corrections for our next model. This process is repeated until we perform the treatment to a high enough standard to be signed off or have passed the exam.


EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

Working with clients Since the Hampson Beauty Group also has a training academy, it often hosts model days so it feels more private for the apprentice. Once you have completed all the criteria and are signed off for a particular treatment, the salon can offer it at a reduced price, advertised as ‘with a trainee technician’. This is to help us as apprentices gain confidence and speed all while perfecting our techniques.

Exams

There are practical and theory exams within the apprenticeship programme. For the theory part, I see my tutor from Runway Training (the provider) once a month. During these sessions we run through the portfolio and coursework to ensure I have covered everything required. The tutor also makes sure I am prepared for exams by setting appropriate tasks. The practical side of exams is completed at the training academy with my employer and passing is determined by my professional trainer.

The team

My colleagues all help me in the salon by teaching me how certain jobs should be done. They offer me tips on certain treatments which can help me stay within the ideal timings, or make sections of the treatment easier. They also expect a professional attitude from myself, which prepares me for being a full-time employee.

“Being an apprentice in the salon isn’t too different from being a full member of staff. The team members treat everyone equally so you really get the feel of working there. The main focus is always customer satisfaction and how we can meet and exceed their expectations.”

Words of wisdom Duties in the salon Every month in the salon, the team looks at business targets and how they can be hit – and exceeded. It is hugely important for the business to make a certain amount of money in order to have a successful company. We are always encouraged to listen to what our customers are telling us and to offer treatments, retail and advice that would suit their needs. This is the best way to hit targets because it comes from a place of helping out our clients rather than pushing sales on them. This helps gain their trust and often encourages repeat bookings.

If you are interested in becoming a nail technician and want to enrol on an apprenticeship then you should just go for it! The only way to find out if it’s right for you is to try it, otherwise you’ll constantly wonder ‘what if?’ I have personally had such a positive experience with the Hampson Beauty Group, despite being nervous at first. It is always great to learn a new skill and it’s a bonus that you get a qualification from it and so much support, too.

Life after an apprenticeship… Jobs are not always guaranteed at the end of an apprenticeship. However, The Hampson Beauty Group feels it makes sense to always try to offer a job to an apprentice after spending the time supporting them and teaching their business ways.

For more information on nail apprenticeships, scan here

Follow Jody on Instagram: @jodylzimmerman Follow the Hampson Beauty Clinic & Training Academy: @hampson_beauty_clinic_ton @hampson_training_academy Follow Runway Training: @runwaytraining

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PRODIY

SILVER

smilings Dazzle & delight clients with a recreation of this sparkling nail design by Tokyo-based Nailympia London champion, GENKI ITOU

MEET GENKI ITOU

Business name: Nail Atelier GENKI Location: Tokyo, Japan Nationality: Japanese Years in nails: I started learning at the age of 16 and became a professional at the age of 17; this is my 15th year in the industry. Fav brands: Any brand. This design was created using IBD, Christrio & Crystal Parade products. Industry roles: Calgel educator, Japan Nailist Association certified instructor & Crystal Parade ambassador (UK) Fav tool: My one stroke brush Inspiration: I listen to music while I sculpt and often associate colours and shapes with musical instruments such as violins, pianos and Japanese drums. Admirations: Japanese friends, as well as friends I’ve met at the Thai international competition and while competing at Nailympia London. Fav technique: One stroke & fine painting. Lockdown lessons: I was always patient, but now I’m even more so. Everyone in the world is worried, so it’s easier to view life from the perspective of others since we are living a shared experience. Affirmations & mantras: Take good care of yourself. Take good care of the people around you. Just be yourself. @genki_ito

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Step 1 Prepare the natural nail plate and apply your chosen nail form, followed by primer. Apply base gel and cure, then builder gel. Cure. Step 2 Enhance the nail using camouflage pink and refine the smile line once cured. Step 3 Place silver foil over the nail tip, cover in clear gel and cure. Step 4 Peel away the excess foil that overhangs

and file the edges of the tip to make sure the finish is sheer. Step 5 Place pieces of silver foil and glitter onto the nail tip to add dimension, texture, depth and design. Encapsulate in clear gel and cure. Step 6 Encapsulate the entire nail in clear gel to finish the look and cure. Step 7 Apply crystals in stages to complete the design.


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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

THE SCALABLE BEAUTY BUSINESS

ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

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’ve recently read a book called Who Not How: The Formula to Achieve Bigger Goals Through Accelerating Teamwork, and it made me think about the different roles that beauty business owners are juggling. We often refer to this as ‘the number of hats’ that we wear and I have seen a trend on TikTok and Instagram whereby business owners introduce each member of the business; the nail tech, the cleaner, the marketeer, the photographer, the sales rep, the bookkeeper, the web designer and the tech support – ultimately, the same person wearing a different hat. Innovation and delegation is crucial for a scalable business. There are infinite sales opportunities when investments are made into a business but doing everything by yourself creates barriers to scale as you are limited in time, resources and energy. A lot of business owners seek out ‘rent a chair’ agreements within their salon as a way to cover salon overheads and potentially earn an income. But what would happen if you invested in the business by investing in the brand itself and the right people to help you to run your business? This could be an extra nail

tech, a receptionist or virtual assistant to help manage bookings to fill the columns quicker, or an online booking system so that your time is better spent either working on the business or encouraging sales. With cases coming to light about salon owners being taken to court for breach of employment rights for having employees in disguise, now is a great time to review the structure within your business to not only see if it is in line with tax and employment laws, but to see if it is scalable. It is great to see when a beauty business is fully booked, especially after the last year, however in business this is a crossroads and a decision needs to be made on whether to capitalise on success or to keep on as you are. There is no right or wrong way to do things as it will depend on each individual’s goals, but it is really important to review the business when at capacity to see what can be done to create more time or generate more income. As an advisor, when I see ‘fully booked’ or ‘not taking on new clients’ on a profile or website, this says to me that the business has not only reached capacity, but that it has reached maximum growth.

“Now is a great time to review the structure within your business to not only see if it is in line with tax and employment laws, but to see if it is scalable.” 76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK


SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

This means that there is no room to increase income unless something changes. My next thought is one for the business owner, I wonder is the business owner really happy, generating enough income and pricing correctly? Or are they working all hours, feeling burnt out and receiving an income that is just enough to get by? These are questions that go through my mind when a business owner comes to me and says they are really busy, but there is nothing to show for it. If this is you, then do take some time out to see if there is a ‘who’ that can help you take the business to the next level or if there is anything at all that can be done to make things better. If you are at capacity, it is a great time to start looking at where you can delegate and outsource. Some people will see this as an added cost so keep going as they are but this mindset is all wrong. Delegating and outsourcing in business should never ever be a cost but an investment that brings great rewards in either financial freedom or time freedom. The beauty industry is huge and the potential is limitless. I know this first hand because I work with business owners up and down the UK that have very successful businesses when they start to work on the growth mindset and shifting from seeing outsourcing as a cost to an investment. Create a list of all the things you do and be really firm when looking at each task in asking yourself: is this something that could be or should be outsourced or delegated? I have recently done this in my own business and recruited two additional

“Delegating and outsourcing in business should never ever be a cost but an investment that brings great rewards in either financial freedom or time freedom.” staff members when I realised the power of what is taught in the book, Who Not How. Have you thought about what you really want from the business? Setting up a business is something that a lot of people do to create flexible work patterns but something that was touched on during a panel I was on recently with @thestack.world, was how women often find that once they start their own business, the flexibility they thought it would provide was quickly filled with overwork, feeling overwhelmed and being under paid. Set some time aside this month to review your business plan and don’t be scared to make changes.

To help business owners, I will be hosting free monthly webinars via @thebeautyaccountant_uk on Instagram. The first session in June covered Business Expenses and the session this month will be looking at employees in disguise, which will be a great session if you are starting to think about the ‘who’s’ for your business. www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /riajaineaccounts @ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77


TECHTALK

Overcoming obstacles Scratch chats to JADE MULLIN, owner of Jade Mullin Academy & educator for Glitterbels about living & working as a dyslexic & dyspraxic nail tech… What is dyslexia? Dyslexia is a learning difficulty that primarily affects the skills involved in accurate and fluent word reading and spelling. Characteristics of dyslexia are difficulties in phonological awareness, verbal memory and verbal processing speed. What is dyspraxia? Dyspraxia is a common disorder that affects movement and co-ordination. It can affect skills in tasks requiring balance and fine motor skills.

ABOUT JADE

Jade Mullin took her first nail training course in 2019 and has since qualified in hard gel and acrylic enhancements, gel polish and the use of an e-file, and supports the learning of fellow techs in her role as an educator. www.jademullinacademy.com

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hen I was about eight years old, my parents started to notice that I was struggling in school and the teachers said that I was lazy and not concentrating. I found letter formation and numbers a challenge, so my mum booked a test to determine whether I had learning difficulties. There were a number of tasks that I had to complete such as number formations, puzzles and picture recognition and the outcome determined that I have dyslexia and dyspraxia, which explained why I was struggling to learn in the same way and at the same pace as everyone else. I found training to be a nail tech quite challenging, as each educator has their own way of teaching and working, so in some cases I couldn’t necessarily work in the same way or understand the process like everyone else. Through lots of practice and dedication, I found my own way of working to get the same results and that’s when I decided I wanted to become an educator and help others who learn in different ways.

@jademullin.nails

*Photo taken

I was always pre-Covid ashamed to admit that I had dyslexia and dyspraxia so in my past jobs I never let the employer know. It’s only since I have achieved what I have in the nail industry that I am happy to speak about it because I want others not to be ashamed like I was as it is not a disability, it is a power. My aim in the industry is to help people understand learning difficulties and that not everybody learns in the same way. It needs to be recognised that just one way of working doesn’t work for all and you should always keep training and investing in yourself and find what fits.

I do know a lot of people that would like to be nail technicians but are put off because they feel they can’t do it, especially when it comes to the theory side of the work. My advice would be to not be ashamed; we just have to work a little bit harder to achieve.

“Educators do their best to try and adapt learning to everyone but in some cases it is really hard. With dyslexia and dyspraxia, every individual is different and suffers differently.” 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK


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PRODIY

Queen B Nail artist & expert, SAM BIDDLE, creates a buzz about alcohol inks by showcasing a step-by-step guide to a stunning watercolour effect design…

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YOU WILL NEED:

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Gel polish shades in white and yellow A small gold bee charm (available via www.crystalparade.co.uk) • Mystic Nails Matte & Go Top Gel and Joker Shine non-wipe top coat, (available via www.rebeccaorme.co.uk) • Mystic Nails Le Grande gel paints in white, yellow and brown (available via www.rebeccaorme.co.uk) • Chroma Inks in 2, 4, 6, 8, 11, 16 & 17 (available via www.chromainknails.com). The colours are, yellow, orange, purple, violet, sage green and blue, plus white, which is used instead of alcohol to mix and blend the inks. • Striper brush, long detail brush, 00 brush and a gel paint brush (available via www.rebeccaorme.co.uk)

For more alcohol ink designs, from animals and flowers to flamingos and faces, take the Be Inspired Alcohol Inks course. Visit www.beinspired.online or scan here www.beinspired.online www.chromainknails.com 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/beinspired.sambiddle

@sambiddle_inspired


PRODIY

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Step 1 Prep three nail tips with two coats of white gel polish, curing between each coat. Apply Mystic Nails Matte & Go and double cure this layer. Use isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any remaining residue. Do not use cleanser, as this will leave chemical residue. Step 2 Use Chroma Ink 17 (dark orange). Shake it well, then decant a few drops onto a palette. It will evaporate, so keep the bottle close by or work quickly. Don’t use anything to dilute it, as you want to use the intense colour as it is. This step-by-step is designed to exercise control and vivid colour application. Next, paint a small triangle onto the nail using a detailer brush. This is a petal, so the point should be directed where the middle of the flower will be positioned. Step 3 Decant white Chroma Ink onto the palette, and with a small brush, blend out the orange shade. Using the white does not dilute or bleach out the ink’s colour. The white and orange will mix together to create a third colour; a subtle and effortless ombré to contour the petal. Since the surface is matte, the ink run will not run away; it is controlled as it cannot move across the nail.

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Step 4 Repeat this process to complete the first flower and then apply four more small orange triangles at once and then come back around again with the white to save time. There is no need to do each petal individually. Use the colour on the palette while it is wet, and then move onto the next stage; applying the white. Allow to dry, and repeat the process using Chroma Ink 8 to form pink petals and flowers. As the design is on a matte surface, you have more control over the inks. Step 5 Use white ink to pull out the petal shape rounding off the triangles and soften the blend. The white gives far more control for this kind of artwork. I find that using inks gives better results with little effort. I would have to spend longer if I was painting with acrylic paints.

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Step 6 This is optional; decant the aubergine Chroma Ink 16, a lovely, intense shade, and place in the centre of the flower, then add detail to the petals to give more depth. Don’t add any additional alcohol and use the ink on the brush carefully. This is a delicate operation. Let the alcohol in the ink merge and help blend this into the first pink colour. You could do the same using red on the orange flower. Step 7 Take sage green Chroma Ink number 6, a striper brush and pull up random stalks for lavender sprigs. Step 8 Decant a bead of blue (Chroma Ink 2) on the palette and allow to dry a little. When the shine is almost gone, dip your brush in it and let it soak up the ink. The ink becomes thicker as it dries and as you dab the bristles onto the matte surface they create a delicate effect of lavender flowers. Step 9 Just for fun and in the theme of this design, add a small bumble bee and butterfly. Don’t over complicate this; add a tiny dot of yellow for the body and use white to create transparent wings. Carefully add aubergine stripes and remember what I always say, ‘art is a suggestion’. Make sure the viewer recognises what you’re trying to show them and leave the rest to their imagination.

“This step-by-step is designed to exercise control and vivid colour application.”

Step 10 I’ve finished this design with an application of Mystic Nails Joker Shine, a non-tacky layer top coat. Adding some details in the centre of the flowers using Mystic Nails Le Grande gel, a gel paint which goes over any surface, including a super shiny top. There is no need to top coat, as this gel paint cures with a nice finish and no sticky layer. Combine this design with a smaller selection of flowers or petals. I’ve marbled one of the nails with gel polish but you can do this with alcohol inks. I’ve adhered a small gold bumble bee from Crystal Parade to one of the nails.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 81


SCRATCHCOLUMNIST COLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT…

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owing to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry.

“Everyone’s goals are different and we are all at different stages of our own personal journeys. Use the images you see on social media as proof that whatever you want to achieve is possible.” For a full nail art video tutorial of Chan’s design and to gain access to over 170 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

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H

ey lovelies! It’s a fresh new month and I’m here with a new article and some fresh information. I received a message from a tech recently that read: ‘I see so many amazing pictures on Pinterest and Instagram and I worry that I’ll never measure up.’ Messages like this make me wish that I could reach through the screen and give people a hug. Sometimes we are our own worst enemy, and the voice in your head telling you that you aren’t good enough is a liar! This topic was discussed at length in the Clawgasmic ‘Nail Tech Frustrations’ series. I know it’s easy to compare your work to that of others online but I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again, every single person you see on Instagram had to start at the beginning. Every single one! They all had a ‘first day’, they all had no followers or no clients, they all had to build and grow their stock and their brand and design and think about their workspace from scratch. Please try to remember this the next time you feel down on yourself and don’t compare yourself to other people. Jouvan put this perfectly in our video addressing this: “Look at other nail techs for inspiration but don’t measure yourself against them. Measure yourself against your yesterday or your last week. Just continually work on improving your skills and yourself.” He hit the nail on the head (pun intended). Stay focused on your goal, your dreams and your future. Everyone’s goals are different and we are all at different stages of our own personal journeys. Use the images you see on social media as proof that whatever you want to achieve is possible. If someone is creating looks you’d love to do, has a stunning salon, is fully booked and not taking on new clients, then that is all proof that it’s possible. Your dreams, your goals, that look you

desperately want to recreate... it’s all possible. You just need to stay consistent. The small steps every single day lead up to the huge big picture at the end so just keep practicing, keep learning, immerse yourself in this incredible industry and keep moving forward. Remember, social media is a highlight reel. We all have moments when we create a look we aren’t 100% sure about, so remember that you are never alone in your thoughts and feelings. Feel them, acknowledge them and then let them go. You must keep going! In the words of Albert Einstein, ‘You never fail until you stop trying’. Love always

Chan x TECH TALK

The beautiful Samantha Haste aka @printbysam created an incredible community through lockdown with #printchallenge, which encouraged techs to get creative. She is dedicated to uniting the industry.

How did your journey into the nail industry begin and from where did you get the idea for #printchallenge? I was working as a manager in the hospitality industry and decided it was time to turn my career up a notch. I got a new job and moved cities, and then lockdown hit a week prior to my start date. The position I’d signed the contract for


SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP-BY-STEP: SUMMERY SWIRLS The swirl nail art trend has taken our industry by storm this year. It is super versatile and has the wow factor but it’s not too complex. I was inspired to create this look when I saw my friends @thehotblend and @mariealliancenails publish similar looks on their social feeds. I was sporting this nail design when I got engaged so had to feature it! Step 1 Apply your chosen base coat and cure, followed by two coats of a sheer gel polish, curing in between each coat. Alternatively, apply builder gel followed by a sheer coat of gel polish, curing in between. Step 2 Choose a bright gel polish or art gel shade and paint a random swirly shape on one side of the nail. Cure. Step 3 Using the same technique, paint a different abstract shape on the opposite side of the nail. For a full set, I like to use different colours on each nail – or you could even use a different shades on the same nail, one each side. Step 4 Use a white art gel or gel paint to trace the outline of the shape, cure, then apply top coat and cure. These look fab whether you choose a shiny or matte finish!

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was removed, which left me jobless in a new city in the midst of a worldwide pandemic. I wracked my brain about what to do next, and always came back to nails. I booked a course and qualified in October 2020.

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little quieter and less manic they’d love to do monthly challenges, so maybe I’ll bring them back soon.

I noticed techs writing on their social posts that they felt demotivated to do their nails for content, that they were feeling lonely and were struggling with lockdown. I asked on my story if anyone would be interested in starting up a nail tech group chat with me and got a great response. That’s where the #printchallenge began and there are around 200 of us in the group chat, and we all talk every single day. We cheer each other on and help each other out if we have any nail troubles.

What are your favourite looks to create and what inspires you? A French tip is a client favourite and I love creating it. Thin, sleek and sexy, it’s the go-to right now, Harriet Westmoreland made sure of that! I also get my inspiration from handbags, clothes, food, textures and just day to day life. Other artists are a huge inspiration to me, too. I recently did a mathematics set which I adored, inspired by @mariealliancenails on Instagram. The social media platform is such an amazing place for inspiration. People are so creative and original. I love it!

Now that we have returned to the nail desk, #printchallenge has stopped for now, but many have said that once it’s a

What advice would you give to nail artists new to the industry? Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither

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are your skills. Practice makes perfect, no two people are the same, and that’s (believe it or not) a good thing. You are you, and people will love that you put your own twist on things. The more you practice, the better. Your friends will love a manicure, so invite them over and perfect those skills. What do you love most about being a nail technician? It’s the community for me; the neverending support and those who are always behind you cheering you on. I can’t believe the friends I’ve made in such a short amount of time. I get so excited for every single client. I’m just so happy to be doing something I love for a living and honestly wake up and feel like I’m living a dream. I need to pinch myself. I feel proud and happy every single day.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83


BUSINESSMATTERS

A BOOST FOR

business

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ail businesses have changed quite drastically since they were permitted to re-open back in April. The majority of salons are reporting that they are not back to 100% capacity in terms of appointment bookings due to clients still being wary of entering venues, and a lack of holidays or events spurring on nail needs. We have witnessed more home-based and mobile businesses being set up, with therapists starting on their own, or salon owners closing high street salons and downsizing to a home premises.

Jenni Draper

These professionals may not have the funding to buy new products, training and resources for their new ventures upfront, so Louella Belle is offering a handy package to help – with a monthly payment plan and access to amazing brands and products such as Footlogix, IBX, Artistic Nail Design and Dadi’Oil to name a few. In addition, pros can benefit from free training for these brands, as well as lifetime access to Marian Newman’s Nail Knowledge programme and a 20% discount on a subscription (or resubscription) to Scratch magazine. The Pocket PA platform is also included which will organise your appointments, payments, client details and accounts all in one place. Now more than ever, therapists have been looking to us to support them. During lockdown, all of Louella Belle’s online courses were Pocket PA helps make the process of running a business as simple and straightforward as possible. It’s a receptionist, bookkeeper and accountant all in one! Clients can book their own appointments, you can take payments and see appointments all from your phone or computer. Louella Belle has lots of Q&As, webinars and lives on social media scheduled with the creator to help with any questions.

free of charge, and demand was so high that we added more specialist, business-focused workshops involving respected members of our community. We also noticed demand from therapists looking to rebrand to our offerings. This can be a costly and time consuming process, so it just made sense for us to put it all together in one package that we felt served the needs of these customers. We have seen a growing need for mentorship and support during this challenging time, therefore we have included one-to-one sessions with our head of education to offer that personal level of knowledge and support, which we know is invaluable at any stage of business. A therapist can start a whole new venture from as little as £60 + VAT per month. We hope to see all salons back to 100% capacity and growing by the end of the year!

What’s included in the business support package?

When you spend £600 + VAT on any Louella Belle products (monthly payment plans available from £60 +VAT per month) you will receive: • Marian Newman’s Nail Knowledge programme • 12-month subscription to Pocket PA • Unlimited access to Louella Belle’s training academy • Mentoring sessions with Louella Belle’s head of education • 20% off an annual subscription to Scratch magazine • A dedicated customer care advisor

For more information, visit www.louellabelle.co.uk/business-support-package /LouellaBelle @louella_belle @louellabelle 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Distribution & training company, Louella Belle, is serving up a bountiful business support package to aid pros post-lockdown. Manicurist & creative manager for the company, JENNI DRAPER, shares more…

Worth over £1,000! The Louella Belle training academy offers product knowledge training for all of Louella Belle’s brands including Artistic Nail Design, Footlogix and Famous Names, as well as webinars covering business advice, social media and nail art.

Louella Belle has partnered with Marian Newman’s Nail Knowledge programme to ensure that everyone has the grounding and essential know-how to start their new business venture with confidence.


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TOO MUCH SAX

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STRIKE A CHORD

torque it!

LIGHT UP THE STAGE

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supercHarged

GOT THAT FUNK

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TECHTALK

AIMING FOR

excellence Scratch chats to multi-award-winning nail technician & educator, Paulina Zdrada, about her new ventures – training & tools for fellow techs… KAT HILL REPORTS

W

ith five Scratch Stars Awards under her belt and the accolade of Scratch Stars Ultimate Gel Tech, Paulina Zdrada is perfectly fit to share her nail know-how with the rest of the industry – and presents a purpose-built training academy and comprehensive tool range. The mission? To equip nail technicians with the right tools for the job – both figuratively and literally. Paulina started her nail career in 2006, working on a part-time basis. “I worked while studying banking and finance at university,” Paulina remembers. “In 2007, I began working full-time as a nail technician in my mum’s hair and beauty salon in Leeds. I had just a small, single workstation.” With a keen eye for detail and expert product application, Paulina’s interest was piqued at the thought of sharing her love for the nail industry. “In 2012, my client base had outgrown my setup and it came at a point where I wanted to expand – I wanted to teach. I made the decision to move to a new property and start my own business. This coincided with entering Scratch magazine’s Scratch Stars Awards and The Great Scratch Shoot Out for the first time. “To my absolute surprise and delight, I won first place in both. 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

My life and career path changed direction. Education become a focal point for me, so I became a brand educator.” With a passion truly ignited, Paulina worked to develop her own teaching style and focused her energies on being the very best she could. “By 2019, I had been fortunate to win a further four Scratch Stars Awards,” she recalls. “My induction into the Scratch Stars Hall of Fame for Gel Tech of the Year increased my own personal profile. “At this point, my business premises had become somewhat of a hindrance to the growth of the business. After careful consideration, I relocated to a larger property with a purpose-built academy in Leeds, rebranding to The Nail Lab. “When the pandemic hit, the whole country was left wondering about next steps and I was no different. My partner and I spent much time discussing the future. In 2020, I decided to formally use The Nail Lab brand as the vehicle to launch my own training academy with the aim to not only teach ‘the how’, but also ‘the why’.”

A new way to learn The facilities at Paulina’s Leeds location are striking and impressive. As the flagship HQ, it boasts a dedicated classroom with capacity for up to 14 students. Found at the same address as Paulina’s


TECHTALK

successful salon, its position also offers learners a valuable insight into working life. Instantly welcoming, the sleek monochrome décor of the classroom sets a professional yet friendly tone for a variety of courses.

“Once students are armed with the information and understand why they need to do something, they can then begin to find their own methods to execute the skill learned. This promotes individuality, creativity and allows for personality to shine through.”

Keen to reach nail professionals further afield, The Nail Lab UK (TNLUK) has six locations to date with more planned. As well as the flagship HQ academy in Leeds, the company has educators and academy locations in Glasgow (Lidia Wrobel), Cheshire (Nicola Wilson), West Midlands (Leeanne Andrews), Northamptonshire (Jelena Dainys) and Buckinghamshire (Amanda Hawtree-Taft).

Top tools

The recruitment drive for the educational team focused on assembling a team of professionals that shared Paulina’s drive and passion. “When selecting our educators, their location and capacity was an after-thought for us in truth,” Paulina admits. “We were more concerned with ensuring we had the right personalities to suit. “Training shouldn’t be a nerve-wracking, arduous or uncomfortable situation – or a simple business transaction. We want our educators to teach the individuals as well as the group, to make sure each student receives the right level of care and attention. “Signing up to learn with our team, students can expect to be met by an amazing educator regardless of which one of our locations is chosen – an educator that is there because they love what they do.” Between the team, a plethora of accredited courses is available to cater to many skill levels. “We offer a wide range of online workshops, as well as periodic free-to-all classes on our social pages,” Paulina enthuses. “As well as the online offering, there is a variety of accredited classroom courses, ranging from beginners courses in hard gel and acrylic to conversion training for acrylgel. We also offer e-file courses and many art-focused courses, too.”

With the wheels set in motion to offer top training, Paulina turned her hand to offer the next most important thing for a nail professional – the right tools for the job. “The plan, however, had grown during the first lockdown. “In my salon, we employ a number of nail techs who have differing needs and opinions about which tools they prefer,” she explains. “The goal became to provide nail technicians industry-wide with not only the training needed to succeed, but the tools to help them do that.” Under the TNLUK brand, Paulina has launched the Tech Range, which has two areas of focus: a portable e-file and a selection of prep tools. The e-file range boasts a portable e-file unit, along with a large selection of carbide, diamond, silicone and stone bits to ensure professionals have the ideal attachment for the job. The e-file unit is lightweight and compact, with a powerful speed of 35,000 RPM. It features forward and reverse functions, as well as a built-in pause function, which allows the tech to switch effortlessly between the two functions without having to manually pause or stop the rotation. Available in either pink or white, the unit also has a digital display and both incredibly low vibration and noise.

The Edge E-File £275 inc VAT

The Lotus Carbide Drill Bit £18 inc VAT

Adapting to a new way of working owing to the pandemic, Paulina was quick to adjust and was able to combine the benefits of classroom learning with the modernisation and flexibility of remote learning. “Our beginners courses now come with a wealth of online content which is available to all students on that course to watch an unlimited number of times for 12 months via our student portal.”

“The goal became to provide nail technicians industry-wide with not only the training needed to succeed, but the tools to help them do that.”

The Magnolia Carbide Drill Bit £25 inc VAT

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TECHTALK

Dual Grit Hand File £1.25 inc VAT

Knowing that training is paramount to the correct usage, Paulina did not want to alienate technicians that aren’t qualified in the use of e-files by also developing a range of prep tools, including nippers, clippers, scissors, files and various combination ends of pushers and curettes.

“Distributing to all corners of the UK, we really wanted to take our time to develop products that we could be proud of,” enthuses Paulina. “The range was designed from scratch to ensure it was not only aesthetically pleasing but importantly it offered the type of tools a nail tech would want in their own kit. “Through feedback from our entire team of working nail technicians, educators and even associated nail techs who we reached out to, we finally landed on a product range that ticks all the boxes. “The real test was always going to be a simple question: would I want to replace all the tools my salon team use with these? The answer was a resounding ‘yes’!” While the range is extensive and caters to personal preference, Paulina can pinpoint a favourite: The Freesia e-file bit. “It is a rounded top carbide bit that comes in a durable purple plasma coating that looks gorgeous,” Paulina beams. “More than that, it’s amazing to use. I use it for refinement, de-bulking and removal of gel polish. All the nail technicians in our salon have each selected this bit as part of their salon packs – it is a must-have!”

“I’d like to think our existing customers will attest to this when I say we are a group of like-minded, hardworking people, looking to share what we know and help raise the bar,” Paulina enthuses. “Investing in our brand is investing in yourself. Our educators are passionate about helping you succeed, while our tools are designed to help you showcase the amazing skills you developed. “With the launch of our online student portal, we are looking to expand it this year, bringing more learning material online for learners to recap, re-watch and relearn.

The Freesia E-File Carbide Bit £15 inc VAT

The future looks bright for The Nail Lab brand thanks to its two pillars: comprehensive training and the correct product for the job at hand. Paulina is keen to grow the brand, ensuring more nail professionals are able to benefit. 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“The range was designed from scratch to ensure it was not only aesthetically pleasing but importantly, it offered the type of tools a nail tech would want in their own kit.”

“On the Tech Range side of the brand, we have some really big, bold plans for further developments and releases,” Paulina concludes. “However, first and foremost, we want to make sure that what we are currently producing is what our customers deserve.”

For more information & to shop the range of products, visit www.thenail-lab.co.uk /TNLacademy @thenaillab_uk



Home BUSINESSMATTERS

Sweet Salon Are you thinking of relocating your nail & beauty business to your home or garden? KAT HILL takes a closer look at practical pointers you’ll need to consider before making the move…

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PROS

Home setups: pros & cons

“It offers a one-to-one experience for the client, meaning it’s a really personal appointment,” says Bryony Howell of Gels By Bry & brand ambassador for The Gel Bottle Inc. “The client is more likely to feel valued and looked after. There are no distractions or other clients to consider at the same time.”

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“It is a great way to save on costs,” says Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert & owner of Sketched by J-A Nails. “There’s no rent to pay or travel time, meaning more time with clients – and more earnings.”

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“I am completely my own boss,” smiles Bryony Howell. “The setup is exactly how I want it; I designed my studio to cater to my services. For example, building a raised platform for pedicures.”

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“Lots of nail techs find that their home/work life is easier to balance and can feel less stressed in their own environment,” comments Kayleigh Parr, Pure Nails educator. “You can control who enters your salon space easily.

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“As a mum of primary school children, it allows me the flexibility to work around school hours,” enthuses INK London educator, Toni Larkin. “I set my own hours and can put in breaks where I need them.”

CONS

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“There’s no footfall, so if you are starting up, you solely rely on word of mouth, which can be much more challenging to grow your business quickly,” says Julie-Anne Larivière.

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“If others live at home with you, they are restricted on relaxing fully during your working hours,” states CND™ education ambassador, Elissa Newton. “Everyone at home has to be quiet around the house while clients are present. Clients could also become too over familiar in your safe space.”

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“There may be higher home insurance and utility bills,” says Julie-Anne Larivière.

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“One of the drawbacks is that you can feel quite isolated,” says Toni Larkin. “When working in a salon, there are other techs to discuss ideas and chat about experiences with.”

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“Professionals may feel the pressure to work more,” laments Magpie Beauty senior educator, June Gilbert.

“It is important to operate on an appointment-only basis as you don’t want clients turning up at your home unannounced!” Bryony Howell, of Gels By Bry & brand ambassador for The Gel Bottle Inc.

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BUSINESSMATTERS

SELECTING YOUR SETUP Inside the home

If you are locating your business to a room inside, there are a number of factors to consider. It’s important that the space feels professional and polished. Your clients are paying for a professional experience, so ensure the room is tranquil and private. Do you have the space to manoeuvre around your client in your chosen room? Do you have room for any specialist equipment or furniture, such as your nail desk or beauty bed? “Having windows in your room is a big plus for good air circulation,” adds Julie-Anne Larivière. “You should also consider a good extraction unit.” Also think about access; ensure that any areas clients need to walk through are kept neat and tidy. “It is also essential to make sure the path is as clear as possible so the client can get to your room easily” Julie-Anne Larivière Julie-Anne continues. “Having access to a separate sink and toilet is a benefit. If clients are using your personal bathroom, make sure to keep it free from clutter and clean at all times.”

Bryony Howell’s studio

Outside building If you are constructing or converting a cabin or garden room, be sure to check with your local authority if planning permission will be required for the structure. Some cabins may not require them but be sure to have that confirmation in writing. “Working from a garden salon means that there is never any disruption to my home,” enthuses Toni Larkin. “Clients don’t enter my home (which means I don’t have to make sure it’s always tidy!) and I don’t have to deal with the smell of products in the house.” When you’re designing the space, keep your client’s privacy in mind. Consider the window placement and size carefully so no one can see into the space.

Check it: Insurance

You must check your home insurance policy. There may be a clause in the contract that may restrict you from operating a business from your home due to having expensive assets, such as specialist equipment, stock and tools, and the security risks of having a member of the public on your property. Insurers could view you as more at risk of fire or theft, so ensure the policyholder is notified and your policy is updated in line with your new venture or a new policy is taken out. “Good liability insurance is imperative, as well as content insurance for your room,” adds Julie-Anne Larivière.

Work on your marketing

Think about your marketing strategy. As your business won’t have the benefit of footfall brought in by a shopfront, you will need to optimise your marketing to ensure you are still ‘seen’. Utilise social media and digital marketing alongside campaigns focused on your local area to highlight your USP: being a private studio offering a high-end experience in comfort.

Parking

Think about where your clients will park to avoid any disturbance to your neighbours. “Let clients know where it is appropriate for them to park and of anywhere that’s out of bounds,” advises June Gilbert. “If clients cannot park on your driveway or you do not have a driveway, make sure you find an alternative for them before you relocate, whether it is off-street parking or a public car park nearby,” states Julie-Anne Larivière.

Permissions & licenses You must ensure your business is being run in line with both national and local regulations. “Before you relocate, get in touch with your council to see if there are any restrictions or if you require a permit to work from home,” explains Julie-Anne Larivière.

“Most local councils will offer a pre-application advice service, so if in doubt give them a call,” advises Toni Larkin. “It is important to acknowledge that just because you are at home, doesn’t mean you’re exempt from things such as business rates, licenses, permissions, health & safety measures and taxes,” adds Kayleigh Parr. “You should contact your local council who will tell you exactly what you need to run your business from home.” You may need to pay business rates to the council for your at-home beauty salon, too. You must also check with your mortgage provider or landlord/tenancy agreement as it may prohibit using the property for trading or business use.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 91

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Health & safety

Even though your business is based at home, you must still ensure your health & safety policy is robust and procedures are followed.

Kayleigh Parr

“Working from home still means the public will be in your care, so you must have measures in place to ensure clients’ safety and wellbeing,” states Kayleigh Parr. “Risk assessments, professional and hygienic work areas, and easy access to the premises are just a few things to think about.”

“Compliance will include compiling risk assessments and adhering to COSHH regulations,” says Toni Larkin. “Additionally, you will need to think about client access; if working from your garden, is the access safe and free from hazards? If working from your house, consider how much of your home clients will have to pass through and whether it will it be free from hazards.”

Julie-Anne Larivière’s home salon

Check it: Your safety Finding your balance

“Working from home can be amazing, however there are some cons,” states Dani Bailey, nail artist and #OPInailboss. “You are always ‘at work’, which might mean squeezing someone in last minute. It’s also harder to Dani Bailey switch off and separate your work life from your private life. I have a separate entrance for my clients, meaning they don’t need to walk through my house which puts my family at ease.” “If you can have a room where you can shut the door behind you at the end of the day, it will help a lot,” agrees Julie-Anne Larivière. If you work from your lounge, for instance, you may find it hard to shut off. “Establish a schedule and stick to it. It is easy to book an extra client here and there, but it will not do you any good in the long run. A schedule will help you feel more in control and able to separate.” Being close to home, you should also prioritise your family. “Working from home is supposed to give you more time with your family not less so, set your working hours and stick to them,” implores Toni Larkin. “Make sure that you give yourself a lunch break, just like an employer would and set realistic limits on the number of clients you see per day.” “Pause and have a meal with your family if you are working late,” adds Elissa Newton. “Also try to go for a walk between clients with family or a friend.” Running a business solo is hard work, so ensure you are also taking care of yourself. “Allow for Elissa Newton breaks and if you are feeling ill and you need a day off, make sure you give yourself the time to recover,” agrees Sophie Donaldson. “Don’t overwork yourself because you can’t say no to clients. I used to work Sundays and sometimes start at 7am if a client requested, but I soon learnt that it wasn’t efficient or fair on me and my family. Now I have set hours, my family and I are so much happier.”

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While no one wants to feel afraid in their own home, you may want to contemplate additional security measures. As you will be inviting members of the public into your home, it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Toni Larkin

Additional measures could include installing CCTV, home security systems and locks. If you are working home alone or in the garden and away from the house, ensure the property is secure. “You must think of your security and what you have on show in order to minimise the risk of intrusion,” states Toni Larkin.

“Ensure that client notes and data are kept secure, and that the salon can be locked,” adds CND™ education ambassador, Elissa Newton. “Having a separate space for work area helps, such as a garden room or a lockable area within your house,” says June Gilbert, Magpie Beauty senior educator. “It’ll be safer for children and pets not to be able to gain access to products/chemicals or any dangerous work equipment.”

Stay social!

“Always keep your foot in the door of the industry by being part of groups on social media,” advises Sophie Donaldson Sophie Donaldson of Sophie’s Cosy Corner, Kent. “This will help you keep up with the latest trends and create friendships for support and encouragement. “You lose a staff room when you go from a salon to working from home, so it’s really important to still feel part of something with team spirit. Keep a look out for local meet-up events with other beauty professionals – or even suggest one yourself!”


BUSINESSMATTERS

TECH TALK

Samantha Knott, owner of Sam’s Studio, Goole, East Yorkshire

TECH TALK

Em Lee, owner of Rebel Nails & educator & ambassador for Nail and Beauty Network Essex

“I have been in the nail industry for around five years and decided to set up my own home studio a year ago in lockdown. I started my career working a salon before becoming self employed and working on a mobile basis. “Having looked at the regulations and risks involved with the Covid-19 pandemic, I decided that creating a dedicated, purpose-built home studio in an unused outbuilding would be the best option for me. It was a scary thought as I had built up a large client base, but when I told them about the change they were all really supportive. While I did lose a few, the majority stayed, and I even gained more when I posted pictures of my new studio on local community social media pages. “I love my studio – it’s full of personality. My clients love the ease of pulling up on my drive, taking a wander into garden and into a cosy studio space. It’s a one-to-one basis for appointments, and strictly no children allowed. It offers them a quiet, unique, professional space for them to relax in while they get pampered. “I love that my studio is not in my house; it allows me to keep my business life separate from my family life, when its closing time I lock up and leave so I can go back to being ‘mum’. I can work my hours around my children, too.” @rebelnailstech

“I studied beauty therapy on leaving school but fell into a different career. Fast forward 14 years, with the global pandemic and pregnant with my third child, it seemed like the time to take the plunge and get back to doing what I loved. I used the first lockdown to relocate my nail room from my family home (as a nursery was needed) and into the summerhouse in my garden. “My first concern was about the access to the property and how not to inconvenience the neighbours. We had a driveway for one car and always had our second car on the street. Clients visiting the salon would then add another car on the street, so we converted the front garden into a three-car drive. “I next spoke to my local council and explained I was setting up from my summerhouse. They were very helpful and gave me the go ahead to run my business from home. “Insurance was very difficult for me to sort out as the cover I had for my home didn’t cover me to run a business. I found many comparison websites difficult to use because I was trying to insure my summerhouse buildings and contents too. In the end I called Direct Line and discussed everything over the phone and secured cover. “Now, the salon looks clean, tidy and professional. I now have such a better work-life balance, too. With three children under five, I can choose what hours work for me and my family.” /samsstudionails @sams_studio_nails

“My clients love my setup and I absolutely adore the freedom and ease of use this gives me!” June Gilbert enthuses. “I’m a selfmotivated nail tech and educator and love my job, so it was a total game changer to have 24/7 access to all of my products and equipment.”

Toni Larkin’s studio

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

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WHERE’S WALLY?

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Wally the walrus melted the hearts of residents in Pembrokeshire, Wales, after he floated on an iceberg from Greenland to the Welsh shore and has since become a local celebrity. The surreal sighting of a walrus gave the town a tourism boost and locals have been showing their love for him by creating some Wally the walrus nail art.

Instagra

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leuryrose

Singing sensation, Ariana Grande, had an intimate wedding to real estate agent Dalton Gomez and chose a French mani to complement her white silk strapless gown.

Instagram.co

nails

Here comes the bride…

m/arianagran

de

Instagram

.com/evilstu

dios.isla

Team Scratch is always seeking out the hottest nail trends and jelly nails are back for summer 2021. Originating from Korea and Japan, 3D jelly nails are growing in popularity once again thanks to the power of social media.

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We

CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

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SHARE THE LOVE

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Over the last month, the most popular article on our website has been ‘How to perfect the ombré/baby boomer nail style’ with techs keen to nail this trend! Scan here to read


Instagram

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unlegend

SCRATCHMEDIA

! NAIL FLAeSH campaign for

TIKTOK TRENDS

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DID YOU KNOW? A report by Market Primes shows that the UV nail gel market share is to be valued at over $56 million by 2025.

Instagram.com/nailslikeclockwork

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Image cour tesy of @za karywalters via @tedd ysphotos

Ed Sheeran teased a behindthe-scenes snap from the video of single, Bad Habits, on his Instagram page – and showed off pointed matte black nails to complement his vampire fangs.

Nail art lover and beauty billionaire, Kylie Jenner, is no stranger to sharing pictures of her nail styles on Instagram, and papped a pic of her enhanced nails with droplet-like details on orange tips.

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A trend for light blue nails is taking over TikTok – with a fun story to boot. TikTok users have been asking boyfriends what colour nails they should have, to which there seems to be a consensus that they always reply ‘light blue’. Therefore, people are saying that ‘light blue nails’ is a way of showing you are in a relationship.

th Ahead ‘of working on Seltzer, celebrity rd drinks brand, Truly Ha nd created this nail artist, Chaun Lege star Dua Lipa. gorgeous set for pop

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THE ROBOT MANI

CELEB MANI SPOT!

Kim Truong and @nailsbydiem worked together to create a statement nail look for Kim Kardashian. The pair created long, twisted nails for a creative shoot with stylist Sita Abellán for KKW Beauty.

Clockwork, a start-up company in the US, has debuted the first ever manicure robot, which can paint nails in around 10 minutes for just $8. Hands are placed inside the machine, one finger is placed under a sensor, and cameras take photos of the nail to determine its exact shape. Each nail is then coated with polish. However, the robots can’t cut or shape nails or provide clients with a good chat, so we aren’t convinced! SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97


NAILDESIGNS

We love this mix of pretty pastel and gold stars; they really ‘pop’ on a shorter nail! By Lucy of @lvtnails.

Funk up the half moon area of the nail like @tiffanyabbigailebeauty by adding a gorgeous gold star.

This edgy design by Hope Ivekich of @that.nailplace on short nails is oh-so striking owing to a dark and light contrast.

Fingernails in Yes, you are seeing stars! Get set for the Scratch Stars Party on 25 July with a roundup of sparkling nail designs

Focus

Glimmers of gold look oh-so pretty on a pastel pink base in this nail look by @katiealice_nail_design.

Ashleigh Gregory of @theelmbeautystudio pairs a nude hue with white and rose gold for a shimmering, standout nail look.

Shoot for the stars like @nailsbynicolaxx – who shows how to make stars suitable for summer with her choice of shades.

Assorted star sizes on a neutral base get a trendy tie-dye makeover, courtesy of @nailsbyharriet_.

@my.eclective.life celebrates her birthday in style, with moons and stars and a lilac base by @vluxe_nails.

Tan and rose gold make for the perfect match – and we’re starry eyed for these enhancements by @megansquirrell.nails.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK


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Registration is OPEN

INVITING ALL SALON & SPA OWNERS Join us at Olympia Beauty Sun 3 & Mon 4 October 2021 at Olympia London

BENEFITS OF THE CLUB EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS • DEDICATED LIVE EVENTS INCLUDING THE BRAND DISCOVERY SESSIONS • PROSECCO BAR, CAFE AND LOUNGE • FREE CLOAKROOM AND COMPLIMENTARY TEAS & COFFEES

REGISTER FOR YOUR EXCLUSIVE CLUB MEMBERSHIP TODAY! www.olympiabeauty.co.uk/ownersclub @olympiabeautyuk

@olympiabeauty

@olympiabeauty


The super hero lotion that tackles even the most challenging dry skin.

0.2 — that’s the number of seconds it takes for Battle Glue to set, the fastest glue on the market.

Airbrushing…but better.

Liquid gold, the glue that holds this family together.

Unit 1, Jessop Close, Clacton on Sea, Essex, CO15 4LX gsgroupuk.com info@gsgroupuk.com 01708 465 900 01708 465 903


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