Scratch Magazine May 2022 by scratchmagazine

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Nineteen years of... ®

Issue 229 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writers Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Sadie Jordan, The Feds, Sam Marshall, Natalie Deacon, Caroline Rainsford

for h, May is a time or team Scratc e th ks ar is month m celebration. Th nd fi I d an y da birth magazine’s 19th industry has e th w ho on g myself reflectin ed and grown. changed, evolv

rnalist 13 years il industry as a jou I entered the na merely a contact s wa ’s website ago, when Scratch eptualised and hadn’t been conc page, gel polish ustry is spoilt for ind r ou n’t exist. Now, es digital social media did ainstream and se ognised in the m rec ces. ore rvi m r se fa is ng s, eti ns and mark choice by brand e in inspiring desig rol ge hu a g yin platforms pla influx of inadequate we have seen an d an s, s tive ga ne s come t our industry bodie With many positive in recent years tha ies erg d all an in e nis rise og a and t we rec training courses r, it is important tha ether. t against. Howeve sitive journey tog po r ou e nu nti are helping to figh co d an s bit od go il sector’s celebrate the na tch ment of the Scra m the announce fro es d m itte co bm th su on re this m nominations we Our biggest joy s of entries and red d nd an Hu s. on list ssi t the pa Stars Awards fina ible to read abou narrow has been incred s painstaking to wa It s. in March, and it se es sin bu d an os ral skill pr ne il ge UK na category as the development of finalists in each ve that will fi t se jus tho to l ea wn rev these entries do are delighted to we t bu al, 68. en phenom tition from page showcased was ge of the compe sta nd co se the t in be battling it ou , educating and mitted to inspiring m co en be ue you’ll find ve ha nt, so in every iss For 19 years we through our conte try us information ind al il nti na se informing the po, news and es ins n sig de il na atures, a mix of tech fe reer. d boost your ca an t fi ne be lp he to u for your rish and thank yo to watch you flou ing nu nti co to d We look forwar ort. continued supp Until next month,

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription? Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer Warners Midlands PLC Printers Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

COVER CREDITS

Images courtesy of Izabelle Hammon Ltd

Shades shown are One Day in Rio, Feather Crown, Papaya, Lola, Fantasia, Caipirinha, Samba and Masquerade from the Calgel and Pro Colour spring/summer Carnaval collection. Available via www.izabellehammon.com

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2022 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

Photographer: Dorota Ziętek /dorota.zietek.fotograf

@dorota_zietek

Make-up artist: Martyna Furczyk /pralinemakeuproom @praline_makeuproom Nail stylist: Monika Szlósarczyk /monic.nowak.9 @monika.szlosarczyk @malowana.lalaa Model: Wiktoria Kocur /Wiktoria-Kocur-Modelka

Follow Scratch and Nailympia:

@x_wika.0

Scan to download the Scratch App:

NEW BEGINNINGS by

Turn the page, pick your shade, tell your tale

Stranger Than Truth

All Eyes Fell Upon Her

She Humbled Him

Her Intentions Were Clear

Careful. It’s Loaded.

The World Swiftly Changed

www.gerrardinternational.com | info@gerrardinternational.com | UK 0345 217 1360 | International +44 (0) 20 8381 7793 | Members of the HBSA

Contents MAY 2022

FEATURES 18 Tropical Talons

Get to know the nail stylist behind this month’s bold, striking & shapely front cover nails

30 How To Support Mental Health & Wellbeing

As we mark Mental Health Awareness Week 9-15 May, evaluate employee matters with our top tips

36 The Spring Salon Spruce-Up

Freshen up your salon space with fab furniture items & tips to help maximise your retail offerings

38 You’ve Got Mail

Take a peek inside three subscription boxes for nail pros, each with contents to ignite creativity

40 Protect & Profit

Read up on the importance of products with SPF & discover items to add to your mani/pedi treatments

44 Chic & Magnifique

Check out top tips for perfecting the classic French mani & explore ways to mix up & modernise the look

56 The Comfort Factor

Prioritise your comfort at the nail desk with advice on alleviating back, hand, wrist & elbow pain

64 The Magic Of Learning

Explore the offerings of the Nailchemy Academy & the educators that can help transform your skills

68 Scratch Stars Awards 2022: Meet The Finalists

Check out the 90 finalists shining bright in the UK’s only awards that recognise nail skill, passion & client care

84 So You Want To Be A Session Tech? Seasoned session manicurists share top tips for entering this ever-changing area of the nail sector

90 Giving Back Through Business

Nail pros & businesses share how they lend a hand to local & national initiatives

96 Dip Tips

The team at Go Pretty reveals how to perfect application & styles with dip powder systems

98 How To Take Care Of Your Tools Keep your tekking essentials in tip-top condition with notes on the best ways to clean, store & maintain tools

REGULARS

10 22 26 28 52 58 60 74 76 78 80 82 86 94 104 106

Nail Nation The Hot List The Cosmetic Climate Nailscopes Notes From The Beauty Guru Scratch Stats The Force Of The Feds Style With Sadie Sustainability Steps Through The Keyhole Readers Gallery Brand Watch Industry Event Pro DIY Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

PLAY THE PALETTE FEATURING ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED GELCOLOR • INFINITE SHINE • NAIL LACQUER • POWDER PERFECTION

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Nail NATION

business

news & views

TARIFFS TO BE DROPPED ON IMPORTS OF NAIL PRODUCTS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA From 1 June, the United States will end tariffs on American manufactured manicure and pedicure products to the UK. At present, the tariff imposed is 25%, which has had a significant impact on the sales and profitability of UK beauty businesses who import and also resell American manufactured nail products. The rollback of the tariffs marks the end of a long-standing dispute between the United Kingdom and the United States. It was in March 2018 that then US president, Donald Trump, announced tariffs under Section 232 of the Trade Expansion Act 1962, in the name of national security. This saw tax on the importation of a number of UK goods, including steel and aluminium, as well as the exportation of certain personal care items including manicure and pedicure products. In response, the United Kingdom put in place extra tariffs on certain US goods, such as whiskey and blue jeans. On 22 March, the United States announced plans to remove its Section 232 tariffs. This led to the UK confirming that it will suspend its retaliatory tariffs, with the government stating that it plans to work closely with the US to ‘address the wider issue of global steel excess capacity and market-distorting practices.’

Bournemouth nail tech creates online security course for nail businesses & clients Jan Knight, IT trainer and owner of Jan’s Hands, Bournemouth, has launched a cyber security course to make more people aware of dangers created by clicking on unknown links. “Over 160,000 people are hacked on Facebook each day, so I have created an entry level security course featuring Jan Knight 30 lessons and over three hours of content with naill techs in mind,” Jan reveals. After working in the legal industry for nearly 30 years, Jan became an IT trainer, delivering training in an easy-to-understand way. “Many people think that cyber criminals are just after bank details, without realising that data about us as an individual is much more valuable,” Jan continues. “Once they have our data, they can crack open so much more, including our business accounts. Letting clients know that you have been the target of a data leak is extremely embarrassing and you may lose them. “I want to provide the tools to get nail techs, specifically those without a degree in IT, thinking – turning them from click happy to click savvy.” The online course is available at the launch price of £25 up to 14 May, and is £30 thereafter. www.janshands.co.uk/training

British Beauty Council appoints new chair Jane Boardman, co-founder and chair of the British Beauty Council, will be stepping down in June after four years in the role, succeeded by Meribeth Parker. The term of the chair lasts for three years, extended for Jane with member approval, and is in place to run the board, manage governance and offer leadership and direction to the CEO and management team. Meribeth’s board experience is extensive and includes non-executive directorships for Jimmy Choo plc, Bally and Belstaff. She has an illustrious career in publishing and is currently head of business transformation at News UK and has been closely involved in supporting and profiling the beauty industry. Of the appointment, Meribeth comments: “It is an honour to take on this role. I’m passionate about the Meribeth Parker beauty industry and committed to raising its profile, improving its reputation and engaging a wide range of stakeholders to help make a difference to the sector. Jane and the team at the Council, alongside the board, have achieved so much in the last four years. Thanks to them, the beauty industry’s importance to the economy is now acknowledged and we can move into a new chapter with our heads held high. I look forward to leading the board as we continue to drive change.” www.britishbeautycouncil.com

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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PAYL8R MAKES BIG MOVES INTO BEAUTY WITH FACES CONSENT PARTNERSHIP Online finance firm, Payl8r, has Payl8r MD Samantha Fogerty become the exclusive ‘buy & CEO Louis Alexander now, pay later’ partner for Faces Consent, an app used by the aesthetics industry to create client consent forms and purchase pharmaceutical products. “We’ve been working hard over the past two years to establish ourselves within the beauty and aesthetics industry,” comments Samantha Fogerty, MD at Payl8r. “This partnership with Faces Consent will grow our market share and bring in an estimated £24 million in revenue within the first year alone. “The app processes around 3,000 transactions every day and we’re delighted to offer its 45,000 users flexible finance to buy now and pay later.” Faces Consent, a digital consent and bookings form application, was launched in 2019 by aesthetic clinic owners Ben O’Brien and Ashley Simpson Davies, originally intended to house the consent forms for their own private clinic. Upon realising the value of the app to other industry members, the duo offered free access to fellow practitioners. Ben O’Brien & Ashley “The success of our app has been Simpson Davies down to listening to what our users want and delivering it to them in an effortless way,” reveals Ben O’Brien, co-founder & MD of Faces Consent. “Over the past year we’ve had a lot of questions from users asking where they can secure flexible finance to spread their payments.” “We spent a lot of time looking into building our own finance technology, but it soon became apparent it would be easier to partner with an existing ‘buy now, pay later’ brand,” he recalls. “The Payl8r team has made this whole process effortless for us and we’re excited to see where this partnership will take us.” www.payl8r.com / www.facesconsent.com

London Business Hub introduces support service for small & medium businesses The London Business Hub, a platform for free business information and advice, has introduced Wayfinder, a service to help London businesses find trusted expert advice and free support tailored to their needs. Launching in Wandsworth, Southwark and Lambeth and supported by the mayor of London, Wayfinder will help small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) navigate and choose from a range of business support schemes across London. The service will first assign businesses with a Wayfinder representative, who will assess the goals of each business and identify challenges it is facing, before connecting the owner to an expert provider. This representative will continue to assist their assigned businesses, staying on hand to provide support such as loans, grants and financial planning, business planning, sales and marketing help, employee hiring, retention and development, and technology adoption and exporting. Councillor Claire Holland, leader of Lambeth Council, comments: “Wayfinder will be a brilliant support hub that will plug Lambeth’s thousands of businesses and entrepreneurs into a network of expert advice and financial support as they build their way back from Claire Holland the worst of the pandemic. “Many of our market traders, start-ups and small business owners, particularly run by women and those from black, minority ethnic backgrounds, suffered disproportionately from restrictions and were excluded from government support.” For more information, visit www.businesshub.london/schemes/wayfinder Twitter.com/clairekholland

business

Nail NATION

Sustainable Beauty Coalition chair scoops Outstanding Achievement Award Jayn Sterland, MD of Weleda and chair of the Sustainable Beauty Coalition, has been recognised with an Outstanding Achievement Award. Presented at the Natural & Organic Products Europe (NOPEX) trade show by Millie Kendall OBE, founder & CEO of the British Beauty Council, the award recognises Jayn’s tireless efforts to champion ethical, sustainable business practices and drive change for a more planet-positive future. Millie Kendall OBE comments: “Jayn has a unique stance on environmentalism – one that is realistic, thoughtful, thought-provoking and straightforward. This year, we have published the Courage to Change Report, formed the SBC’s steering and advisory committees, established task forces, represented the sector as the only NGO in beauty to attend COP26, and launched the Planet Positive Beauty Guide. I can’t think of anyone else who would have been able to get all this done, while looking after her family during a pandemic and running a multi-million-pound business.” Jayn, who attended NOPEX to take part in a Sustainable Beauty Coalition discussion panel, responded: “I am genuinely thrilled to have received this unexpected and very precious award. This is collaborative work and I am delighted to witness the recent coming together and cooperation within our British beauty industry to affect change and address some of the most difficult of issues.” www.weleda.co.uk / www.britishbeautycouncil.com/sustainable-beauty-coalition 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

BUBBLE & FIZZ

Heart braker

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pinterest.com/louellabelleuk instagram.com/louellabelle

pleasure

Nail NATION ATTRACT IDEAL CLIENTS ON SOCIAL MEDIA BY SIGNING UP TO 5-DAY CHALLENGE Sarah Hartley, social media marketing expert and beauty therapist, has launched the More Ideal Clients Challenge. The free five-day challenge is available for signup at any point between 2-15 May and will help beauty professionals see why a client persona is so important, discover who their ideal clients are and help to research and create a client persona. Sarah, founder of Blossom Tree Social, comments: “By completing all the steps in this challenge, you will be able to write content that speaks directly to your ideal clients. There will be no more time wasted creating content that doesn’t suit them. The more you can connect with your audience, the more likely Sarah Hartley they are to book or buy with you.” Sarah tells Scratch that those who take part in the challenge will receive an email every day for five days with instructions including videos and resources to help create an individual client persona. Sign up to the challenge via www.subscribepage.com/moreidealclients @blossomtreesocial

CND™ shares four effects to add shine & shimmer to nails CND™ has unveiled four highly pigmented chrome and holographic ‘Over The Top Effects’ to add colour, lustre, shine and shimmer to nails. Each pigment can be mixed into sculpting powder or gel to serve up an eye-catching finish, or layered over CND Shellac™ before finishing with No Wipe Top Coat. The CNDTM Over The Top Effects Kit features: • Pearl Obsession – a white chrome • Lighting Bolt – a blue chrome • Off The Chain – a rose gold chrome • Gold Party – a gold holographic “CND™ Over The Top Effects are the perfect addition to nails, offering stunning, bold colours and shine,” comments CND™ co-founder, Jan Arnold. “These smooth, easy to apply pigments give the nail pro a way to express nail artistry by adding that extra sparkle.” CND TM Over The Top Effects are available via www.sweetsquared.com

REM unveils stylish British-made nail bars REM has expanded its range of salon and spa furniture with two stylish nail bars; both made in Britain and offering a three-year warranty. The Monaco Nail Bar (pictured left) is available as a one or two position unit in 26 laminate colours, offering storage and integral LED lighting, with prices starting at £790 + VAT. Two drawers and one cupboard (on each position) offer valuable storage space, and any cables can be hidden with the cable management port. The work surface is acetone resistant. The Curved Capri Nail Table (right) is available as a one, two or three position unit, and each position comes with a storage drawer and cable management ports. The laminates can be mixed in any combination desired, with prices starting at £626 + VAT. www.rem.co.uk

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Sweet Squared, on behalf of LASHUS, has appointed Jenny Hodgson as general manager. Jenny is a lash and brow expert with over 12 years’ experience and will support the growth of the LASHUS brand in the UK and internationally. www.sweetsquared.com 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The NPD Group reports that prestige vegan makeup sales have increased by 28% in the UK, accounting for 12% of total make-up sales in the prestige beauty market. www.npd.com

Salon System has added Advanced Crème Wax to its JustWax Expert collection in collaboration with Andy Rouillard, Britain’s leading male waxing specialist. Formulated with delicate, ‘ sensitive skin in mind, the Advanced Creme Wax is suitable for all skin and hair types. www.salonsystem.com

Lucy Jefferis, nail tech and founder of Miss Lucy UK, has added 12 unique illustrative nail art stamping plates to her product portfolio. Made in the UK from high-quality medical grade steel, the plates include celestial, animal print, doodle and spring options. www.misslucy.uk

RY DATES FOR THE DIA

Nailympia ®

of Nailympia, one ed wn no re 6-8 st mo the ION COMPETIT MAY 2022 Y N global nail tech A M R GE IA is s, P hip ns M pio am Y anks ch NAIL ANY r the first time th ng to Germany fo M mi a co g R tin ea E cr G International, ners to Signature Nail sig de il na all r fo e opportunity great competitiv f 2022. or eld ss Dü as part of Beauty pi a. co m ai at w w w .n ly m Fi nd ou t m or e

Liz McKeon announces Lanzarote retreat for business owners Business coach, trainer and author, Liz McKeon, has announced the dates of her Business Owners Retreat at the five-star Princesa Yaiza Resort in Lanzarote. The event is held to teach business owners how to effectively grow their business and improve the way they run it, in the form of a group coaching experience with Liz. The event consists of a week of workshops, coaching, mentoring, access to Liz, wellness sessions, networking events and excursions from Saturday 14 – Saturday 21 January 2023. Liz comments, “When you immerse yourself for seven days in nothing but leading-edge entrepreneurial excellence, attending to your own health, wellbeing and mindfulness, you don’t just emerge from that with a stronger business. You emerge from that with a new business – and you often emerge from it as a new person.” The Business Owners Retreat package includes: • 12x 90-minute workshops • Coaching and personal time with Liz and her team • Business networking sessions • Afternoon masterclasses and excursions • Morning meditation and exercise classes • Return airport transfers • Breakfast, lunch and dinner Sign up at www.lizmckeon.com

hion Opening with a fas rty in pa h nc lau d an show yle St l ra ltu London, Cu nded fou L en be A s ha k R ee W U CULT WEEK eur, by tech entrepren E STYL am. ah Gr llie y-E nd Ca vement aims The week-long mo ral heritage brace their cultu em y ldl bo to le op pe page 86. e ag on ur re co to en Find out mo hair and beauty. through fashion, yl ew ee k. co m w w w .cu ltu ra lst

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JULY

e latest Check out all th tumn/winter au r ‘ hes fo launc e in 2022 and indulg A I etitions P mp co , education OLYM TY more at U ch mu A so d E an B , Olympia Beauty lar beauty pu po e Th . on Lond . ilympia London plays host to Na at trade event also nd te at ur free ticket to Register for yo eauty.co.uk ab pi www.olym

2-3 ER B OCTO

Revealed: The top UK cities to launch a beauty business

American brand, NovaLash Eyelash Extensions, has ended its partnership with Sarah-Anne’s Beauty Distribution and is now fully responsible for its own sales, training and delivery of NovaLash products to the UK and European markets. www.novalash.co.uk

Bio Sculpture has released six bold standout nail shades, ideal for summer holidays and at festivals. The Live Life Loudly collection is available in vegan and cruelty-free gel and Gemini Nail Polish formulas via www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Despite the challenges faced by businesses across the UK, 8,436 beauty businesses were opened in the UK in 2021, with a 21% increase in the number of new companies started from 2020. Office advisory service, Instant Offices, has analysed Companies House data to compare population to start-up ratio across cities in the UK, to discover which saw the highest concentration of entrepreneurs in the last year. While entrepreneurship increased across every location analysed, particularly in the beauty industry, the data revealed the best cities for those looking to start a new business. The top cities are: • London • Birmingham • Manchester • Liverpool • Glasgow • Bradford • Sheffield • Nottingham • Cardiff www.instantoffices.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

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Tropical talons COVERSTORY

Step behindthe-scenes of this month’s bold & fresh front cover shoot with REBECCA HITCHON, who reveals everything you need to know about the pro behind the nail style

award-winning nail team, as well as enter into the judging arena. As an educator, Monika owns a nail academy in Poland and travels across Europe to train students.

espite only venturing into the nail world four years ago, Monika Szlósarczyk, the talented Polish nail stylist and educator behind this month’s two Scratch covers, has made a global name for herself.

Back in 2018, Monika stood at a crossroads – she didn’t want to work for the business she was in and wished to prioritise her two young daughters. Sitting down with her husband, the pair listed Monika’s strengths to make a decision about her next steps. With a creative flare, a warm, positive and personable nature and a desire to be inspired and inspire others, all routes pointed to the beauty industry – and Monika’s aptitude for nails immediately became apparent. Within just a few years of starting her career in nails, Monika began to top competition podiums across the world with her passion for distinctive shapes and editorial designs, including the Kingdom Beauty Crown Championship in London, Golden Hands Of The Word International Championship in Moscow, and Brilliant Cup International Championship on global stages including Dubai and Turkey. This recognition naturally led the nail pro to create her own

It was for the Brilliant Cup International Championship, which took place during the Covid-19 pandemic, that the images for this issue’s covers were produced. “During the pandemic, I wanted to create an energetic poster that would take people back to the summer holiday season, reminiscent of warm sea and the colours of a setting sun in an exotic country,” Monika reveals. With summer approaching, Monika reached out to Scratch with her images and was delighted when we chose two in celebration of Scratch’s 19th birthday. “There are no greater rewards for a nail artist than to show their work to the world,” she reveals. “I am so pleased that I can tell my story in the pages of such a reputable and prestigious magazine.” Monika used L&P acrylic and gel systems by Polish brand, Mistero Milano, to create the extreme length nails. She spent around 20 days on and off designing, shaping and adding colour to the nails, which reach up to 20 centimetres in

“I enjoy creating individual and unique shapes, and in doing so, I can be imaginative. I like to design looks that depict women and their beauty. The nail industry is constantly developing and presents great opportunities, not only for business but also for art.” 18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY

“I wanted to create an energetic length. The photo I like to poster that would take imaginative. shoot, including nail design looks that assembly, model people back to the summer depict women preparation and and their beauty. holiday season, reminiscent The nail industry scenography, then took over six hours, is constantly of warm sea and the with Monika revealing developing and that the hardest presents great colours of a setting aspect was choosing opportunities, not only sun in an exotic the most effective for business but also for frame and positioning for art,” Monika tells Scratch. country.” the model’s hands to best showcase the nails. But the long hours are a labour of love for Monika, who explains that from the very beginning of her career in nail styling, she fell in love with extreme forms and creating editorial shoots with different meanings. “I enjoy creating individual and unique shapes, and in doing so, I can be

COVER CREDITS

Photographer: Dorota Ziętek

The nail artist’s passion for the industry doesn’t look to waver as she enthuses about her hopes and dreams for the future. “I wish to start training more students around the world and open my own academy in Austria. I want my students to open their minds to what is possible in nails, and design their own unique shapes.”

/dorota.zietek.fotograf

@dorota_zietek

Make-up artist: Martyna Furczyk /pralinemakeuproom @praline_makeuproom Nail stylist: Monika Szlósarczyk /monic.nowak.9 ‘ @monika.szlosarczyk @malowana.lalaa Model: Wiktoria Kocur

/Wiktoria-Kocur-Modelka

@x_wika.0

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

NEWPRODUCTS

Salon System Gellux LED Smart Lamp £129 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide. This 30W Gellux Smart Lamp offers high performance curing of Gellux products and features 31 LED lights and a countdown display. It has a sensitive/low heat setting and a removal base; ideal for pedicures. The sections within the base make for accurate and comfortable finger positioning and the lamp has an integrated handle for transportation.

Lecenté Spring Foils £3.99 + VAT each www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk Catch the eyes of clients with these three holographic foils from Lecenté. Traveller, Trippin’ and Wandalust can be used for full coverage looks with Lecenté Foil Gel or dabbed onto nails randomly for an abstract look.

List THE HOT

The GelBottle Inc e-File & Featherfast Swiss Carbide Bit Duo £189 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com This portable e-File has a high torque for light touch, low vibration, tensionfree and smooth removal. Boasting up to 12 hours of battery life from one charge, the e-File has a handy LCD screen for speed precision, and speeds of up to 35,000 RPM. The spiral-cut, tapered shape of the Swiss Carbide Bit is corrosion resistant and supports removal of gel and L&P enhancements.

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

Calgel Carnaval Collection £16.98 + VAT each www.izabellehammon.com Get clients ready to samba with the eight Rio Carnival-inspired shades from Calgel. Ideal for summer mani/pedis, the hues are also available in iZ Pro Colour and include juicy orange Papaya and creamy pistachio Caipirinha. Purchase all eight shades and save 25%.

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HD Pro Nails Pastel Art Gels £9.50 + VAT each www.hazeldixonnails.com Add fine and fabulous details to nails and exercise your creativity with the six additions to the HD Pro Nails Art Gel range. Pale Green, Pale Blue and Pale Lilac have been unveiled alongside Dusky Pink, Dusky Green and Baby Pink, and each Art Gel is highly pigmented and tack-free.

NEWPRODUCTS

CND Vinylux™ Mediterranean Dream Collection £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 each www.sweetsquared.com The six shades in CND™’s summer nail colour collection are inspired by nature’s beauty, free spirits and relaxing getaways. Clients can choose from hues including Linen Luxury, a creamy ivory, and Boats & Bikinis, an aquatic teal. The full collection is £24.75 + VAT, and is also available in Shellac™ (£13.95 + VAT each).

IKON.IQ Depend Fiber Gel £POA www.ikoniqnails.com Channelling the strength and reliability of an acrylgel in a medium viscosity, easy to apply gel format, Depend features small particles of fiberglass to reinforce strength. Available in 5ml and 50ml sizes, this gel is ideal for heavyhanded clients and requires file-off removal.

Halo Gel Polish Luxury Awaits Collection £5.49 + VAT each www.purenails.co Will your client choose Cannes, Dubai, St Barts, Aruba, Positano or Santorini? These six highly pigmented Halo Gel Polish shades are inspired by sunny destinations. Ideal for holiday season, each shade has a high gloss finish and lasts around 14-days.

Mii Colour Confidence New Beginnings Collection £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 each www.gerrardinternational.com The six dreamy 14ml pastel shades in Mii’s latest nail colour collection include pretty pale lilac She Humbled Him and baby pink Her Intentions Were Clear. Each hue is also available in Statement Gel (£15.50 + VAT) for a longer-lasting finish. What’s more, purchase a 3-pack of 9ml lacquers for £13.50 + VAT and retail for £9 each so clients can touch-up during summer months as desired.

ASHE London Nail Lacquer in Tessa & Mabel £POA/RRP £15 each www.ashelondon.com The chartreuse Tessa shade is an homage to the 2000s; a vibrant feel-good hue to evoke nostalgia. Pair with Mabel to create fun, fresh nail art designs for exciting occasions this summer.

Nailchemy Bridal Glitter Collection £16.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Make your bridal client’s nails sparkle as much as their ring with these four pretty glitters, available in 10g pots. First Dance, Maid of Honour, Mother of the Bride and Honeymoon feature size 008 iridescent glitter particles, from pink to blue, gold and holographic.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

Bloom your

with

www.glitterbels.com

@glitterbels

@GlitterbelsbyAnnabel

true colours

Glitterbels

INDUSTRYINSIDER

Cosmetic THE

Climate Take note as The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) shares information about cosmetic traceability & transparency BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD

Head of scientific & environmental services at The CTPA

FAKING IT: COUNTING THE COST OF COUNTERFEITS

ounterfeits, or ‘fake products’, make up a huge global industry. According to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation & Development (OECD) and the EU’s Intellectual Property Office, fake goods accounted for 3% of international trade and £4 billion of unpaid tax in the UK alone in 2016.

Why do people buy counterfeits?

packaging, or packaging that has been very expertly copied. Sellers can spin convincing stories about the provenance of products or try to pressure you into making a purchase decision quickly.

Which products are most commonly counterfeited? The Anti-Counterfeiting Group (ACG), which represents around 3000 international brands in the fight against counterfeiting, has put together a list of the most commonly faked products.

This enormous trade in counterfeit goods must mean that they are being purchased by large numbers of people. Why Counterfeiters look is this, and are all these items bought in the mistaken for any way to cut a belief that they are the real deal? In fact, research conducted by Incopro in 2019 found that almost 20% of UK consumers had intentionally selected a fake product over a 12-month period. More than a quarter of us would consider buying fake clothing or accessories from online sellers. There are a number of reasons for this, such as being able to show a status symbol in the form of a luxury handbag or watch when this might otherwise be unattainable. Although the quality won’t be as good as the real thing, the feeling that the product gives to the wearer may be the most important factor to them. Sometimes, it’s simply a case of wanting to cut corners and save money. However, this moneysaving inevitably comes with its own cost, a risk to our own health and safety and more widely, funding crime. There are also people who unwittingly buy counterfeit goods. In some cases, fake products might be packaged in genuine 26 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Alcohol is high on the list. Criminals use cheaper, and more dangerous, substitutes for ethanol which can corner. Fake salon products cause blindness, nerve damage and even be fatal. haven’t gone through the The Food Standards Agency suggests making sure detailed safety processes that the packaging looks genuine and hasn’t been tampered with, you recognise the brand, and legal products comply with, that the price isn’t unrealistically cheap. and important ingredients

will be swapped for inferior or dangerous replacements.

Toys, cigarettes and sunglasses also appear on the ACG list of most commonly faked products. Fake medicines are another global problem. Sadly, the Covid-19 pandemic led to a large number of fake treatments and vaccines being promoted, especially in developing countries. As criminals take any opportunity to cash in on a crisis, fake Covid-19 tests and PPE such as masks and sanitiser were also seized by customs authorities around the world.

What are the dangers of counterfeit cosmetics? The cosmetics and personal care industry is a key target for counterfeiters, as its products are used on a daily basis. We’ve all heard about fake perfumes,

INDUSTRYINSIDER but all cosmetics can be counterfeited – from luxury make-up to everyday essentials such as soap, toothpaste and sunscreen. Nail polishes and professional salon products are no exception.

Research by Indiana University found that the ‘influence of society’ and ‘value for money’ are the top two reasons that motivate consumers to buy fake products.

Fake cosmetics may look convincing from the label, but the composition will certainly not be the same as the real thing. Counterfeiters are reproducing our favourite products with their profit, not our safety, in mind. Fakes won’t comply with the strict UK Cosmetics Regulation, which controls which ingredients can and can’t be used in a cosmetic product, amongst other requirements.

Counterfeit nail polish might contain high levels of solvents that are irritating to the skin and damaging to the nails. The pigments that create the colour won’t meet the high purity requirements of genuine products and could contain unsafe levels of heavy metals such as lead and arsenic. Fake products are all about maximising profit for the fraudsters, so as well as being potentially dangerous, fake cosmetics such as nail polishes and gels are poor quality and will give a far inferior result when compared with the genuine brand.

10 TOP TIPS FOR SPOTTING FAKE PRODUCTS By Phil Lewis, director-general of the Anti-Counterfeiting Group (ACG)

Trust your instincts. If it sounds too good to be true, then the chances are that the item is fake. It’s cheap as it hasn’t been It’s not just the cosmetic products that can have dangerous tested and certified, and counterfeiters cut corners to reduce prices. copies. Electrical items used in salons are also a target for Authentic high-class perfumes come with certificates of counterfeiters. As well as performing poorly, faked electricals run authenticity, and while fake versions sometimes come with the risk of overheating and catching fire, causing burns and putting a certificate and a warranty card, the mailing address on the businesses in danger. card will often be different to that displayed on the packaging. Counterfeiters will also cut corners on packaging and as How can I spot a fake? with many other products made by overseas fraudsters, According to the Chartered Trading Standards there are often spelling mistakes. Institute, before buying from an unofficial seller Stick to reputable and trusted traders, and if shopping online, or website, people should always remember check whether deals are legitimate. For example, if the sale is ‘the 4 Ps’: not happening in-store then it’s unlikely to be an authorised seller. Place: Always buy from a reputable stockist (inc. To create an authentic looking site, an online fraudster will internet sites and platforms) or duty free outlet. Fraudsters replicate the look and feel of a brand’s official website, so it’s Price: If a deal looks too good to be true, it will try and important to be vigilant. Again, it’s worth checking the spelling and probably is. deceive shoppers by grammar on websites and the URL. Criminals don’t always pay Packaging: Look out for poor quality slightly changing the attention to the detail. The result could be the arrival of dangerous labelling, including spelling mistakes and spelling of a well-known goods and the theft of your personal and financial details. poor grammar. Just because a site ends with co.uk, it does not mean that brand or shop in the Product: Be mindful of fake versions of wellthe seller is based in the UK. If there is no physical address website address. known brands and be wary of unusual brand supplied or if there is just a PO Box or email address, you should names you haven’t seen before. be very cautious. A simple way to check is to copy and paste the web address into https://whois.domaintools.com to check where the company is actually located. Many websites selling fake items have their domains registered in South East Asia. Ensure the website address begins with ‘https’ at the payment stage – this indicates a secure payment. Be extremely wary if asked to send any payment abroad by any money transfer system such as Western Union. If you have not bought from the seller If there before, then do your research and have been a lot check online for reviews. Also look out for of positive reviews fake reviews and poor spelling, grammar within a few days, and staged photos. People will often this can indicate that the turn to forums and blogs to warn of fake fraudsters are pushing for sites so it’s worth reading these. Look out for details of a returns reviews to happen policy, as rogue traders don’t offer within a certain customer service. If there is no physical timeline. For more information and advice about counterfeits, address or working phone number on a visit www.a-cg.org. ‘Contact Us’ section of a website, beware. Visit CTPA’s website, www.thefactsabout.co.uk, to learn more If you do suspect that you’ve found or unintentionally about the science and safety behind cosmetic products. purchased a fake, get in touch with the team at Trading Standards. @TheCTPA @thectpa

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s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , u r st a r st yl e … yo it su to s n g si p ic ks & d e BIRTHDAY TECH!

Sarah Kempton Sarah Kempton of Atheva Beauty, Worcester, has two years’ experience in the nail industry and celebrates her birthday on 25 April, falling under the Taurus star sign. “I love that my career allows me to be creative and work with so many wonderful clients,” Sarah reveals. “Seeing them happy with their finished nail style makes me happy!” General traits for Taureans include being logical, generous, trustworthy, determined and understanding. “These are great qualities in both everyday life and as a nail tech,” Sarah continues. “Being logical helps with my nail art as I try to make it as easy as possible and break down designs to achieve the desired effect. My generosity is demonstrated in my glitter application; I love to see nails sparkle! I would never have imagined two years ago that I would be a fully booked pro with a waiting list. I work so hard to learn and perfect new techniques and am determined to feel confident in my work and make my clients feel fabulous.” /athevabeauty

@athevabeauty

Taurus

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

Happy birthday, Taureans! This month, make time for yourself. Consider switching off from social media when you can to de-stress and relax. This celestial nail style by @golightlysbeauty depicts the symbol for Taurus.

Leo

JULY 23 – AUGUST 22

Education is a key focus this month. Have you been thinking of expanding your knowledge of various nail systems or techniques, or considering taking some nail art workshops? Seize any opportunity you can! Halo Gel Polish in Glass Slipper £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

Scorpio

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

Scorpios should work on their planning skills to schedule the day’s tasks effectively. Practical grey and silvery tones mean business!

Gemini

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

Social events are in full swing for Geminis. Expect to meet new people and deepen existing connections with others, and don’t forget to make the most of networking opportunities.

Virgo

AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

May is a time of enhanced ambition for Virgo, so make big plans and embrace opportunities. Stay grounded, calm and controlled with a deep blue hue. Salon System Gellux in Joie de Vivre £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Sa arius

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

The focus of this month for Sagittarius is enjoyment! Hobbies and pleasure dominate, so take time out to enjoy yourself. Have fun with nail colour by choosing a playful pink.

Mii Colour Confidence in All Eyes Fell Upon Her £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

Aquarius

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18

If you’re keen to branch out into nail education or offer one-to-ones, May is a month to dive right in. Make a splash and keep an open mind with a light blue hue or dash of nail art. 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Pisces

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

May brings enthusiasm and excitem ent for the Pisces sign. Expect to be inspired and welcome opportunities, so keep energy high with fun, summery nail hues.

HD Pro Nails Pastel Art Gel in Pale Blue £9.50 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com

Sarah Kempton uses green and gold for this glamorous nail style inspired by the Taurean bull.

Cancer

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

May is an amazing time for Cancers to try something new! Why not experiment with some bold nail colours and switch up your style? Bring out your wild side by opting for an orange hue. The GelBottle Inc in Turner’s Sunset £16.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Libra

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22

May could bring Librans the urge to redecorate the salon space. Tidy up your setup and add some seasonal touches to spread joy and brighten up the environment.

Capricorn

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

Have you been considering creating a salon space at home? May is the time to start making the motions to achieve this.

Aries

MARCH 21 – APRIL 19

Embrace the opportunity to grow and perfect your social media platforms. Keep inspired and creative when styling your Insta posts with a cool lilac hue. iZ Beauty of London Gel&Go in Amour £13.50 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

HEALTHMATTERS

How to support

mental health & wellbeing Mental Health Awareness Week provides the perfect opportunity to assess how you consider mental wellbeing in your workplace. Whether you run a large salon team or work on a self-employed basis, knowing how to recognise and manage any mental health issues that arise is invaluable for you and your business. “A person’s mental health refers to their emotional, behavioural and psychological wellbeing and defines how Lee Pycroft they feel and think about themselves and their life,” explains Lee Pycroft, a celebrity and editorial make-up artist turned psychotherapist who offers wellbeing workshops and coaching. “When beauty pros are equipped with a set of tools and protocols to maintain mental health, they will have more emotional bandwidth to support their clients and be better educated to help themselves more effectively. This leads to better outcomes both personally and in business,” she continues. 30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Mental Health Awareness Week 2022

UK charity, the Mental Health Foundation, has organised and hosted Mental Health Awareness Week for 22 years, each year setting a new theme to raise awareness about mental health matters across the globe. This year, the theme is loneliness and the week will explore the experience of loneliness, its effect on mental health and practical steps we can all take to reduce it.

“We chose loneliness as this year’s theme because it’s such a common, difficult experience and one that many people don’t feel comfortable talking about, which can then leave them feeling more isolated,” a spokesperson for the Mental Health Foundation tells Scratch. “We hope the week will get people talking more about loneliness, challenging the stigma around it and raising awareness of how important our connections with others are for mental health.” Research shows that the impact of loneliness has been exasperated by the pandemic, making it one of the leading issues that the UK public feels needs to be addressed. “Our connection to other people is fundamental in order to protect our mental health, so we must find better ways to tackle the epidemic of loneliness. We can all play a part in this,” adds Mark Rowland, chief executive of the Mental Health Foundation. “The week is also an invaluable opportunity for people to talk about all aspects of mental health, with a focus on providing help and advice.” To find out more about Mental Health Awareness Week 2022 and how you can get involved, follow the Mental Health Foundation’s social media pages: /mentalhealthfoundation

@mentalhealth

@mentalhealthfoundation Scan here to check out the Mental Health Foundation’s advice for looking after your mental health

Instagram.com/mentalhealthfoundation

To mark Mental Health Awareness Week 9-15 May, Scratch serves up advice for employers seeking to support staff mental health matters

HEALTHMATTERS

Self-employment & loneliness Self-employed workers make up 65% of the UK beauty industry, according to the Office for National Statistics. While selfemployment has become one of the most practical and flexible ways of working, particularly since the pandemic, it can put a strain on mental health and cause loneliness. “One of the things we encourage everyone to do is stay connected with people they care about, because good relationships with friends and family are vital for our mental health,” says the spokesperson for the Mental Health Foundation. “It’s also a good idea to make new connections with other people, for instance by joining local groups of like-minded people or getting involved with causes or activities you care about.” “I used to work in a salon but now I am one of the self-employed beauty pros who gets lonely,” reveals Zaara King. The beauty therapist founded The Beauty Build in 2021, a supportive online community where beauty pros can learn how to build their business and strike a healthy work-life balance. “This loneliness is probably why Zaara King The Beauty Build became my focus, as the group gives me a space to feel that I’m not alone,” she continues. “Every beauty pro is welcome – it’s a safe space to share stories, struggles, achievements and gain feedback. It gives people a sense of community and I set it up because I wanted to make a wave of change in the industry, so beauty business owners would start putting themselves first and protecting their mental wellbeing.”

Visit The Beauty Build at www.facebook.com/groups/thebeautybuild

A clever company concept Georgie Smedley Group, distributor of Gelish and All That Jazz products, has its own Technical Help Forum, a social media networking group for the company’s existing students and trained techs. “It’s an open space in which we try to encourage each other,” reveals Jazz Christodoulou, Georgie Smedley Group’s general manager. “Having the support of others in the same boat, mentally and at work, can really show you that you’re not facing your problems Jazz Christodoulou alone and can help you make some great friends in the industry.”

Emma Prescott

“It really encourages people to feel welcomed and join forces to quit those isolated feelings,” adds Georgie Smedley Group educator, Emma Prescott. “Techs who began commenting on mutual posts have become really good friends, so you may work alone but you are never really alone.”

“Having the support of others in the same boat, mentally and at work, can really show you that you’re not facing your problems alone.” Jazz Christodoulou

Trigger points

Turn to page 56 to learn how to improve your While triggers for poor mental health differ from salon setup to person to person, there are certain conditions that promote optimum are prevalent within the beauty industry, particularly comfort. due to physical aspects of the work such as not taking sufficient breaks, uncomfortable setups or working impractical and antisocial hours.

it can take years to recover from the condition. “It’s common among sole business owners and self-employed staff who struggle to put boundaries in place, eventually leading to a dysfunctional work-life balance.”

Boreout Anxiety and “Boreout is a mental health condition that has depression are conditions the same mental and physiological impact of Sam Pearce, beauty industry that Lee Pycroft has noticed burnout, but the associating conditions are & mental health boredom, lack of drive, little attachment ambassador and most in those working in the to your job and a feeling of going founder of mental beauty industry. “Each of these are through the motions,” says Sam. health course provider, states of heighted emotional arousal Low Ears, reveals which can be exhausting and block clear Presenteeism what can trigger Sam Pearce thinking, making it hard to function, Sam defines presenteeism as “being ‘on’ poor mental health… concentrate and learn. If these types of all the time – a behaviour that is prevalent emotional distress are not supported in Burnout in environments where expectations the workplace with systems put in We all have some idea about the and pressures of meeting deadlines and effects of burnout, a state of emotional, performance targets are front and centre.” place to assist those struggling, physical and mental exhaustion caused She adds that it can often lead to heightened they can escalate and lead to by prolonged stress, but Sam reveals that levels of anxiety and depression. burnout,” she comments.

“When beauty pros are equipped with a set of tools and protocols to maintain mental health, they will have more emotional bandwidth to support their clients and be better educated to help themselves more effectively.” Lee Pycroft SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

HEALTHMATTERS

Advice for employers Team building “Even when times get stressful, it’s important that staff members support one another,” says Jazz Christodoulou. “Team building activities are great for doing this, and ones that are unrelated to your work or industry make the biggest impact. Even if you work together on a healthy diet, for example, you can really boost each other’s confidence, help each other feel better and grow stronger as a team.”

Communication “There is a fear that if you talk about mental health struggles you become vulnerable, but the narrative needs to change,” explains Sam Pearce. “Because do you really know your staff, or do you just know what they have chosen to tell you?” With communication being so vital, Pure Nails educator, Nicole Dowling, recommends weekly catchups with members of staff. “Use them to see how everybody is feeling or if anybody has anything they’d like to discuss in a more relaxed environment, rather than in a formal staff meeting,” she says. “You could hold it at Nicole Dowling the end of the week so staff can discuss how their week has gone and you can help to resolve any issues as a team.”

Mental health days In the UK, there is no legal difference between taking a day off work due to mental health issues and taking a sick day for a physical problem. While you should be accepting of an employee who wants to take a mental health day, Jazz Christodoulou explains that they aren’t beneficial for all. “For some, a mental health day is sitting at home relaxing but for me, it’s alone time with my thoughts and this can have the opposite effect, which is why I try to encourage employees to come in to make them feel less alone,” she says. However, she adds that this only works if you can provide encouragement and empathy.

Mindful language: dos and don’ts

Diana Pajeva

“When speaking to someone with mental health issues, you need to let them know that you’re there for them through listening and the language you use,” says Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Diana Pajeva. “Just because you can’t see the symptoms of a mental health issue, doesn’t mean they aren’t there.”

Lee Pycroft reveals that reflective listening, a technique that involves carefully listening and reflecting the emotional content of what the person has said, is helpful for those struggling with their mental health. “Offering a brief summary of what you have understood can have a calming effect on the distressed person as it lets them know they have been heard,” she explains. When speaking with someone who has anxiety, Lee uses the following example to show good use of reflective listening: ‘It sounds like you have been feeling anxious a lot and not known how you can turn that feeling off, which has been really uncomfortable for you.’ She adds that asking open-ended rather than close-ended questions can be helpful as it encourages the person to open up and give a longer answer than just ‘yes’ or ‘no’, helping you to know how you can support them. Open-ended questions typically start with ‘how’, ‘what’ or where’. For example...

Open-ended:

How do you feel today?

Creating a safe salon space “When people feel anxious, there is often a sense of overwhelm and not feeling safe in their body,” explains Lee Pycroft. “That’s why having a quiet space that is calm and preferably has some daylight and fresh air is ideal. It should be a place where a person can take regular rest breaks and reset and regulate their nervous system, maybe by practicing some breathing exercises or listening to some music.”

ZAARA KING’S 3 TOP TIPS FOR EMPLOYERS 1. “Carry out a one-to-one with an employee

who you think may be struggling with their mental health to figure out what the cause of the issue is, what and when additional problems might arise, how you can work together to monitor the situation and what action needs to be taken.”

2. “Support the employee with extra resources and encouragement when needed. However, be careful not to promise anything and seek advice from others if you need it when it comes to legal rights.” 3. “Be considerate and confidential. The worst thing you could do in the workplace is break confidentiality, especially after it has probably taken a lot of courage for an employee to openly speak about their mental health.”

32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Close-ended:

Are you feeling better today?

Open-ended:

What helps you most when you feel anxious?

Close-ended:

Can I be of help when you feel anxious?

“Perhaps also have a code for an employee who suffers with their mental health to use in severe situations,” advises Emma Prescott. “Something that would be usual to say in the workplace such as ‘I just need to make a quick call’ could actually mean ‘I can feel a panic attack coming on – please may I have a break?’ “You could even offer the option of speaking via email or through handwritten notes if face-to-face conversation about issues is difficult,” she adds.

Do not try to fix someone’s mental health problems for them, as these issues may be very complex and you are not a mental health professional. If you are concerned about a member of staff, encourage them to speak to a professional or support group.

HEALTHMATTERS

Training Check out our coaching picks to help support your understanding and management of mental wellbeing…

Believing in an industry that recognises the importance of its workforce’s mental wellbeing, awarding and assessment organisation, the Vocational Training Charitable Trust (VTCT), added Mental Health Awareness to its range of vocational and technical qualifications in 2021. “Throughout the two qualifications, learners will develop knowledge of how to recognise the signs and symptoms of a wide range of mental health conditions, the factors affecting mental health, and the impact of mental health from a global, individual and workplace perspective,” reveals VTCT’s head of UK sales, Kelly Huntington, who was Kelly Huntington instrumental in developing the qualifications. “They will also establish an understanding of what constitutes good mental health and mental ill-health, as well as gain an awareness of types of support available for conditions.” Scan here to learn more and find your nearest training provider for Mental Health Awareness qualifications

“There is an unspoken agreement that anyone working in the customer facing sector can deal with other people’s lives and any associated information.” Sam Pearce

“Having always had dachshunds, I understand them and their body language tells me how they are feeling, so I knew one of my dogs wasn’t ok when her ears were low,” says Low Ears founder, Sam Pearce, when asked about why she founded the mental health courses tailored to those in customer service industries. “She didn’t need to say anything – I just knew. Low Ears is an appreciation that sometimes the words to find how you are feeling are just too hard, and a sign or symbol can be enough.” Created with an understanding that those in customer facing industries are expected to provide a service, free advice and a shoulder to cry on, Low Ears courses are designed to evolve to be as up-to-date and helpful as possible and can be personalised to the needs of the learner. “There is an unspoken agreement that anyone working in the customer facing sector can deal with other people’s lives and any associated information, but while the chat is all part of the service, it’s exhausting when not managed properly,” explains Sam. “Do you have the ability to protect yourself from the impact it can have on your mental wellbeing? The spaces that we create to serve our guests are proven to have a positive impact on their mental health and wellbeing, so surely you deserve the same.”

Fusing her knowledge of beauty as a renowned make-up artist with her understanding of selfcare, workplace welfare and inner beauty’s importance for emotional wellbeing, Lee Pycroft’s workshops can be tailored to the needs of a company or individual, as well as delivered online or in-person. “My recent workshops have focused on workplace anxiety and seasonal affective disorder, which is a form of depression, and have been heavily applauded,” Lee tells Scratch. “I cover some basic science on what is happening in the body when people are anxious or depressed, as this helps the audience to have a clearer understanding of their physiological response, and they learn practical tools to support themselves and others. I offer a warm environment and accessible communication style that helps participants feel comfortable.”

Find out more and get involved at www.leepycroft.co.uk

DID YOU KNOW?

Mental health charity, Mind, has a range of mental health focused courses available, including one designed for employers. Scan here to find out more

Find out more and get involved at www.lowears.co.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

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BUSINESSMATTERS

The spring salon

spruce-up It’s the season for fresh starts & new focuses, so explore how to freshen up your salon space & make your business bloom REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS Your nail colour palette has had a spring refresh and now’s the perfect time to do the same to your salon space. First impressions count, and a spring clean or addition of some seasonal accessories can help present your business in the best way. From exciting clients with your salon design to freshening up your retail area and getting rid of old stock, we’ve explored easy ideas that will make a big difference to your nail space this season.

Do you know the shelf life of your products? Having a declutter but unsure when to dispose of your products? Check out our rough guide to shelf lives below. But remember – always check the manufacturer’s instructions to determine the precise shelf life of the products you are using. • Gels and gel polishes: One to three years • L&P products: One to three years • Nail polish: 12-18 months • Primer: One to two years • Creams, lotions and cuticle oils: One year after opening, one to two years if unopened • Disinfectants: Two to three years once opened

Don’t forget to recycle! Despite what your local council may tell you can and can’t be recycled, there are schemes that can help you keep all of your salon waste away from landfill. RecycLeBelle is an initiative from Louella Belle that collects and recycles old product bottles from any brand, including gel, nail polish and nail treatment bottles. Find out how to get involved by scanning here By joining the Green Salon Collective (GSC), you can receive help to recycle the different types of waste from your business. Register your interest for a free information session here

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TECH TALK

Jenny Bennett of Pinky’s Nails and Beauty, Northumberland, shares how she freshens up her salon space every spring… “The team starts by doing a deep clean, which involves getting into the areas that aren’t practical to clean daily,” details Jenny. “We pull all large items of furniture away from the walls and clean behind and underneath them. Everything is taken off the shelves, including polish bottles, and is dusted and rearranged, with bright spring and summer shades brought to the front.” Jenny explains that the new season affords a great opportunity to declutter and throw away any items that are not being used or that are past their best. “If we haven’t used something in the past year then we get rid of it,” she explains. “We go through all products in the salon to check if they have been opened and used, ensuring that they are still within their shelf life. If not, we dispose of them and either renew them, or if an unpopular colour, for example, we replenish with a new shade instead.” To determine new nail colours to buy, the salon owner turns to what is trending, allowing her to figure out what customers will be requesting for spring/summer. The final step of Pinky’s Nails and Beauty’s spruce-up is decorating the space. “We decorate the salon each season, and for spring we opt for flowers and blossoms to create a fresh feeling,” says Jenny. “Our decorations reflect our fun salon environment and as it is called Pinky’s, we use pink flowers. Our decorations are temporarily fixed so can be reused in a different display each year, keeping our waste to a minimum.” /pinkysnailsandbeauty @pinkysnailsandbeauty

BUSINESSMATTERS

Dynamic displays Retailing is made stylish with the Glam Lux from REM, a display and storage cabinet featuring three spacious lower drawers and three illuminated display shelves, with 21 different laminate finishes available.

Check out REM’s Olympia Nail Varnish Display unit, with an illuminated back panel, laminated exterior in a choice of 21 colours and space to hold around 125 product bottles!

“I utilise any wall space I can to display my gel polish collections,” comments Tracey Thomas of Birmingham business, TT Nails. “Having shelving to showcase all of my polishes has allowed me to maximise my salon space and have more floor space. Where possible, I have purchased shelves from the brands I use to keep my branding on point.”

TOP TIP

So that nail products do not lose their effectiveness before their shelf life, they must be stored correctly. Ensure that your products are stored upright and in their original containers, with their lids securely closed, in a cool, dry place away from moisture, direct sunlight and heat.

Retail reshuffle

Salon business expert, Liz McKeon, offers up practical ways to spruce up your retail area…

“Regardless of space, a well-stocked retail area creates awareness of your products and helps plant a seed that can develop into a desire to buy,” explains Liz. “As a nail tech, you are likely to know more about the specific qualities of nail products than staff in department stores, so don’t risk losing sales to them because you haven’t given any attention to merchandising.” REM Olympia Nail Varnish Display from £392 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

TECH TALK

Nicole McMillan of Coco Does Nails in Scotland reveals her tips for successfully smartening up a small salon area... “My main tip for sprucing up a small space is to remove as much as you can from your work surfaces, such as products that don’t need to be on show or that can appear distracting,” Nicole comments. Nicole also chooses to reshuffle the furniture in her studio seasonally. “In a small space, lots of furniture can feel overwhelming and I find myself moving things a few times before I get it right,” admits the manicurist. “What works for my studio is making sure my desk is in the area with the most light. I try and position it at a particular angle so when I take a picture of my client’s hands, the background is minimal and bright.” /cocodoesnails @cocodoesnails

TOP TECH TIP

“I chose to have shutters fitted to the windows of my home based salon to fit the rest of my house and continue the homely feel,” reveals Tracey Thomas. “The windows were previously dressed with Venetian blinds, however I found that the dust created from constant filing and drilling made them harder to clean.”

Merchandising refers to how products are categorised and grouped together to encourage clients to buy and make purchasing as easy as possible.

The 3 Ps of merchandising 1. Products: “Think about your client base – are the right types of product and brands present in the point of display?” 2. Position: “Are products placed in the ideal location for clients to take notice? Are products categorised in order of market leaders and package size? Are products rotated to keep stock fresh and in date?” 3. Presentation: “Are products clearly priced? Are all products and units clean and attractively displayed? You may even need to take photos of your retail displays from different perspectives to see your salon as your clients see it!”

Liz’s guide to stock • “Make sure all your bestsellers are in stock.” • “Place regular small orders until you have your stock levels correct.” • “Make sure you have enough stock, but don’t tie money up in products that aren’t selling.” • “If you are out of stock of an item, communicate this to all staff, so they don’t recommend a product you don’t have.” “Finally, check out your competition and see how they use the ‘tools of the trade’, such as samples, testers or product information, to enhance their sales,” advises Liz. Check out “Learn new and this sweet effective selling retail display in skills that can the Serenity Nails be taken back & Beauty salon, to your salon.” Staffordshire. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

Instagram.com/serenitybyellie

REM Glam Lux Salon Retail Unit with LED Light from £752 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

BUSINESSMATTERS

You’ve got *

mail

Fancy a delivery to channel your creativity & open your mind to other product The number offerings? Scratch takes a peek at of beauty and personal care three monthly subscription boxes subscribers grew 97% from 2020 to 2021, for nail pros to note… according to analysis by Ordergroove.

SKULLEN SUBS Already offering nail training, a product range and a varied treatment menu, Newcastle beauty salon and academy, Skullen Collective, has extended its offerings with a nail subscription box.

NAIL MAIL

Have you ever seen a nail design on Instagram and wished you could recreate it, but didn’t know where to start? That’s the premise behind NAIL MAIL, a subscription box that collaborates with a different UK nail artist, brand or distributor every month. Each NAIL MAIL box features five or more professional nail products and a ‘how to’ guide for an exclusive nail look specifically designed for that box. Subscribers are encouraged to post the design they created with the contents of the box using hashtag #NailMailChallenge, with a chance to win the next month’s box for free. Collaborations so far include former Scratch columnist and Clawgasmic co-founder, Chantelle Vermont, Georgie Smedley Group brand ambassador, Georgina Duffy, and Louella Belle. Cost: £29.99 (monthly rolling subscription), £34.99 (one-time purchase). www.nail-mail.com /nailmailbox.uk

@nailmail.box

With the salon known for its incredible nail art, Skullen Subs offers the chance to create a new nail art design each month, wi th a detailed step-by-step tutorial and full-sized nailcare and design products to achieve the look included in the box. Each month, you can also expect one of the brand’s cuticle oils, as well as a limited addition artwork to brighten up your salon space, vegan and gluten-free snacks for you and your clients and monthly self-care tutorials created by Skullen Collective’s techs. And guess what? Scratch has partnered with Skullen Subs, offering an issue of the magazine inside every box. Cost: £32 (one month). Three, six and 12-month subscription options are available. www.skullennaildesign.com /skullencollective @skullencollectiveltd

THE NAIL BOXES

Created by salon owner, educator, founder of the Gelica nail supply brand and two-time Scratch Stars Awards finalist, Karen M. Brown, The Nail Boxes is a monthly subscription box featuring professional products handpicked by Karen and her team. With an awareness that techs may not want to invest in an entire product system unless they know it works well for them and their clients, and also that this stops them from discovering products they may love, The Nail Boxes prides itself on offering techs the chance to ‘try before they buy’ products. These range from nail crystals, glitter and nail art items to acrylic powder, brushes and tips. Brand partners include HD Professional Nail Systems, Kirsty Meakin and Katie Barnes. Cost: £39.99 per month. www.thenailboxes.com

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SAFETYMATTERS

Protect &

Profit CHLOE RANDALL shines a light on the importance of sun protection & SPF products for hand & foot services

Sun Awareness week runs 2-8 May 2022

The topic of weather is often an ice-breaking conversation starter between nail and beauty pros and their clients. If you have clients who are hoping for sunshine this summer, it’s a prime time to bring up the topic of sun protection. Consider products with SPF in your hand and footcare services – not just for summer, but year-round, and introduce them to your retail offerings. More than one in three (35%) of people burn their skin every year in the UK, with a further 46% burning while abroad, according to a study by the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD). In addition, the NHS reveals that repeated sunburn increases the risk of melanoma (skin cancer), and Cancer Research UK has found skin cancer to be one of the most common forms of cancer in the UK, seeing a 144% increase in mortalities since the early 1970s.

Nimue Environmental Shield SPF50 £POA/RRP £51 www.sweetsquared.com

Sun Awareness Week, launched by the British Association of Dermatologists, runs annually to raise awareness of skin cancer. This year’s campaign is focusing on prevention and detection advice while encouraging people to regularly self-examine. The Association also aims to teach people about the dangers of sunburn and excessive tanning, considering the associated risks of skin cancer. Nail and beauty professionals have the opportunity to regularly observe changes that may appear on their client’s skin and by taking the time to read up on all things regarding the sun and your skin, you could advise your client to take action.

“Make use of SPF moisturisers in your manicure and pedicure treatments and encourage daily use through retailing an SPF product post-service.” 40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

What is SPF?

“The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is commonly interpreted as how much longer skin covered with sunscreen takes to burn compared with unprotected skin,” reveals a spokesperson at the British Association of Dermatologists. “So, if you burn after 10 minutes in the sun, then using a sunscreen labelled with SPF15 is taken to mean that you can safely remain in the sun for 10 x 15 = 150 minutes, or 2.5 hours, before burning. “This definition focuses on extending time in the sun but a better way of thinking about the SPF is that if you spend a certain amount of time in the sun, then wearing a sunscreen with a given SPF reduces the UV dose to 1/SPF of that which you would have received by spending the same time in the sun but with no sunscreen applied. “For example, applying an SPF15 sunscreen results in a UV exposure to the skin of one-fifteenth of that which you would have received if you had not applied any sunscreen.”

SAFETYMATTERS

SPF in moisturisers

Sunscreen brand, Sun Sense, reveals that you can help reduce your chances of developing skin cancer by applying sunscreen regularly on a daily basis. Make use of SPF moisturisers in your manicure and pedicure treatments and encourage daily use by retailing an SPF product. “SPF used in moisturisers are tested the same way as sunscreens, so an SPF15 moisturiser should provide an SPF of 15,” advises a spokesperson from the BAD. “However, these formulas are less likely to be rub and water resistant and do not bind as well to the skin as sunscreen, and most importantly are likely to be applied thinner than sunscreen. Therefore, they are unlikely to offer the same level of protection. “A moisturiser with an SPF will help protect you against small amounts of UV exposure, such as when you walk to the car or pop outside to hang out the washing, but sunscreen is better suited for longer, more deliberate UV exposure, such as spending your lunch hour outside.”

“Nail and beauty professionals have the opportunity to regularly observe changes that may appear on their client’s skin. “ Urban Retreat Sun Cream SPF25 & 50 £25 inc VAT www.urban-retreat.com

Mii Cosmetics Skin Loving BB Cream SPF15 Shades 01, 02, 03 £12.50 + VAT/RRP £25 www.gerrardinternational.com

Get educated

Devised by skin cancer awareness charity, Skcin, the Melanoma & Skin Cancer Early Detection (MASCED) programme aims to provide those working within the beauty, hair and therapy sectors with the skills and knowledge to spot skin changes or lesions that could develop into cancer. The online training programme trains you how to spot the early signs and symptoms of both melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers and how to confidently signpost your clients to take appropriate action.

Costing £20, the course also teaches you how to prevent skin cancer by adopting sun safety measures so you can educate your clients to take charge of their skin health. The training has been reviewed and is supported by professional dermatologists. It has also been widely recognised by industry bodies BABTAC, NHBF and the British Beauty Council and endorsed by Habia. Evolve Organic Beauty Deep SPF20 Tinted Climate Veil £16.25 + VAT/RRP £29 www.louellabelle.co.uk

“It is vital that we do everything we can to ensure that people recognise the signs of skin cancer.”

Skcin isn’t the only organisation encouraging hair and beauty pros to learn about the signs and symptoms of skin cancer. The British Association of Dermatologists launched a campaign with Melanoma Taskforce to encourage such pros to learn the early signs of skin cancer. Amanda Holden, actress and television presenter, expressed her support to the cause in a press release, stating: “I spend a lot of time in hair and make-up, and if I had an unusual looking mole, I would want my hair or beauty professional to know what to spot. “I believe it is vital that we do everything we can to ensure that people recognise the signs of skin cancer. Wellbeing, hair and beauty professionals up and down the country can play their part by looking out for possible skin cancers and encouraging people to visit their doctors.” Scan here to watch a video about the MASCED accreditation programme Visit www.masced.uk/accreditation for more information and to register for the course. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 41

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NAILINSPO

Perfect the classic French before mixing it up with CHLOE RANDALL’S roundup of inspo, tips & product picks

Chic &

Magnifique The chic and classic French manicure has been a key staple on nail service menus since its popularity boomed in the 1970s. Now, the style is more talked about than ever, ranking as the sixth top nail trend on TikTok according to WeThrift, and the hashtag #frenchmanicure has accumulated over 107.5 million views on the platform. However, while the style is still popular as an enhancement of the natural nail’s colour and style, nail technicians globally have been putting their twist on the traditional pink and white look. Adaptations include mixing up the colour, shape, smile line placement and swapping the white tip for something artistic. “I love experimenting with modern takes on the French manicure as it means there is a style that can be created to suit any client; from those that are daring to those more conservative,” says Gemma Helman, Izabelle Hammon pro educator. “As nail trends change, this classic look evolves too, with colour, style and length.” Here, Scratch serves up inspo, tips and techniques for putting a twist on the style to make your client’s vision for their Instagram nailfie a reality, while refreshing your knowledge on perfecting the classic look.

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This classic French manicure was created using CJP Nail Systems, in shades Cherry Blossom Blush and Snow White. Hair & Nails: Becky Wicks @beckywicksnailartist Make-Up: Daniella Jade @muartistrybydaniellajade Photography: Dragos Bogdan Photography @dragosbogdanphotography

Dip it! “French is very easy to achieve with a dip system,” reveals Sharon Shaw, Go Pretty’s marketing & development manager. “The key to a perfectly symmetrical design is a good base, so it’s important to make sure all NexGen French White nails are the same length and well prepped.” Dip Powder £23 inc VAT Top tips for best results: • Shake the white dip powder into a French dip tray. • Apply the Pro Base (No. 2) liquid then slide the tip of the nail in the tray. • Stop when you can’t see the natural white line of the nail; this will achieve your perfect smile line. • Quickly remove the finger from the tray and dip the entire nail into the French pink powder. You can repeat this two to three times for each nail depending on the required result. • Once satisfied, brush on Activator (No. 3) liquid. • Be steady and consistent achieve a beautifully sleek finish.

www.gopretty.co.uk

Go Pretty French Dipping to Tray £4.95 inc VAT www.gopretty.co.uk

A happy smile

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A smooth, crisp smile line is the difference between a poor French manicure and a perfectly executed one, so it is an essential skill to master. According to Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician, the ideal shape of the smile line should mirror the shape at the base of the nail to create a symmetrical top and bottom.

The classic French manicure is demonstrated on enhanced square nails by @nokusnails.

Entity Colour Couture in Bare it All £10.95 + VAT www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk The micro French is super stylish and perfect for shorter nails. This mani was created by @yennytimms using Bio Sculpture Gel.

Nailchemy Genesis Iced Blossom Acrylic Powder £7.50 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Aeropuffing Reusable Stencil NoC20 £1.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

“Creating the perfect smile line is all about confidence,” comments Toni Larkin, INK London educator. “A lot of techs avoid offering it and find it nerve-wracking but practice it as much as you can so that when under pressure and in front of a client, it is second nature. Using the right tools is key.”

Aeropuffing Nail Art Complete Essentials Kit £139.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

“To create a crisp smile line, my must-have product is my Aeropuffing Kit,” reveals Amy Martin, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “I can easily create a French tip within seconds. My top tip for freehand application is marking and creating the smile line with a striper brush, flash curing, then going back in with your colour to fill in the gap.”

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Gelish French Duo £29.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Mii Colour Confidence in Just a Smile £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

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OPI GelColor in Passion £18.70 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Izabelle Hammon Angled Nail Art Brush £4.45 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in White £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

“Picking the perfect cover shade for your client can be tricky, and I always have my colour sticks to hand to hold against the client’s skin,” explains Gemma Helman, Izabelle Hammon Pro educator. “I will go by their nail plate and skin tone to find a colour that as the nails grow will not be too noticeable, giving them longevity and a beautiful natural look.”

Halo Gel Polish in French Pink £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

The GelBottle Inc’s Builder in a Bottle is used in this oh-so-chic look by @gems.nails.x.

The perfect match There is no ‘one shade fits all’ when it comes to choosing a cover shade for your client, so hold multiple options in your chosen nail system(s) and select the most complementary white shade to achieve a look that enhances the client’s natural tones. “Choosing the right shade must be a joint effort between the clients and myself,” comments Amy Rickaby, The GelBottle Inc ambassador. “Each client is different, and they don’t always want a classic French base shade. It can depend on their style, preference and the design of the French they desire, so we work it out together.” “Having a few colour options available such as pinks, nudes, roses, beiges and even a clear base coat as an option will ensure the best result for your client,” adds Erin Rice, Louella Belle ambassador.

Salon System Gellux in Purely White £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

“Use the shape your client has chosen to determine how the smile line should look. A stiletto nail should have a pointier or deeper smile line,” advises Carla Mitchell, Nailchemy educator. “The shape can easily be perfected when doing a reverse smile line with a few strokes of the file.”

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LCN ProTech Gel Brush Pro £5.15 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk

Shape it up

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Ensuring the smile line is consistent and the cover shade is the perfect match for your client are two imperative aspects of a clean and classic French look. However, with the alternative French there are no rules. Be creative with the shape of your client’s nails, from round to almond, square or even stiletto, and experiment with different shapes and sizes on this trend.

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INK London Stiletto Forms (500 pk) £15.83 + VAT www.inknails.com

Artistic Colour Gloss in Bride £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Light Elegance Smile Line Brush £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

NSI Dura Files (150-grit) from £4.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Nailchemy educator, Helen Clayton, chooses an almond shape to show off this alternative French on feature nails.

“I love a square, squoval, or flat round shape for a French manicure,” says Salon System expert, Julie-Anne Larivière. “For a classic square, simply file the nail straight across. For a squoval, file the nail straight across then round off the corners. For a classic almond (flat round), file the nail to a rounded shape before placing your file at a 45-degree angle to the sidewalls and filing towards the centre of the tip to make a subtle point. Alternatively for ballerina or coffin, use the same process as the classic almond, but square off the very end of the tip.”

“A deep smile line looks fantastic on longer length nails, and a shallow smile line suits shorter styles. I also love a French in a V, asymmetrical shape, and a heart shape French looks especially attractive on almond nails,” comments Helen Clayton, Nailchemy educator & ambassador.

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The GelBottle Inc BIAB in Teddy £16.99 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

CNDTM Plexigel Builder £19.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

“Sometimes, a client may desire a nail shape and length that won’t work with the smile line/style they desire so you’ll need to manage their expectations,” comments Belinda Price, OPI education & capability manager. “As with all nail services, a great consultation will be the gateway to a happy client and the perfect treatment and finished result.”

“The French is so versatile and can look completely different from one client to the next just by changing the shape and length of the nail.” Erin Rice, Louella Belle ambassador

Glitterbels gel polish was used by @glammertized to create this marbled ombré design which maximises the use of length.

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“When given free rein with clients, I consider their nail length and shape before deciding which tip style to use,” says Claire Blincoe, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “Short nails need a simple design whereas you can let your imagination run wild on long nails. A very short, wide nail needs a deeper smile line for it to look balanced. A straight French will make wide nails look wider.”

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@mybeautynailsbym creates a glamorous and glittery alternative French on a stiletto shaped enhancement.

Jewels and embellishments complement this long, square design by @versataynails.

NSI Polish Pro in Lace Corset £10 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Iulia Sisu uses Spektr gel as her system of choice in this beautiful, and delicate lace square tipped design. For this look, it took the nail tech 2.5 hours with a charge of £70.

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NAILINSPO Georgie Smedley Group educator, Amy Martin, uses Gelish shades to create this pretty in pink design. Products available via www.gsgroupuk.com

Light Elegance Buttercream in Veggies & Vines £15.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Just add colour Give a nod to colour trends and complement personal styles by replacing the white tip with a seasonal shade. From pastel tones to bold and neon hues, consider a pick ‘n’ mix style for your client or a more consistent look.

Calgel Carnaval Collection shades £16.98 + VAT each www.izabellehammon.com

A combination of pastel tones are used in this spring French design by @blushnailsandbeauty_. In

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“I have noticed that clients who are tempted to try bold shades such as bright pastels and neons, will consider them in a French for a subtle look,” notes Emma Prescott, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “It gives them a little more flexibility with colour choices without appearing too bold.”

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Glitterbels Hema-Free Gel Polish in Banana Smash £7.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

All That Jazz French Ease in Black £9.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

“Try a coloured tip, with either all nails in the same shade or a mix of colours across the tips. It’s really on trend and it’s a great way to funk up an classic French manicure.”

Educator and awardwinning nail stylist, Kayley Cairns, creates this stunning coloured tip design using HD Pro Nail Systems Camouflage Powder in Silk Rose and various colour powders with a line of Akzentz Gel Play in Glistening Gold.

Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System expert Salon System Gellux in Vividly Violet £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

HD Pro Nails Silk Rose Camouflage Powder from £10.55 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com

OPI GelColor in Strawberry Waves Forever £18.70 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

“I will always find out how adventurous the client is with colour and which shades they prefer to wear, as well as the style of nails they usually choose,” comments Cathy Lansbury-Palmer, Pure Nails ambassador. “This gives a good indication about the bold, bright or edgy style you could create. You should always ask if there is anything they would not like, such as a particular colour.”

CND Shellac™ Mediterranean Dream collection £69.75 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

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Pricing pointer “I will charge at least £5 extra for a French design as it takes time and skill to perfect,” advises Tiffany Minifie, TGB team coordinator, creative nail expert & content creator. “The price will increase depending on which other add-ons my client would like. For example, if my client wants a plain French with one colour, I will charge £5 extra, but if they want French with gold flakes or a simple hand-painted design, I charge according to how much time is added to the appointment and the skill required to complete it.”

NAILINSPO

Another way to smile

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Placing the smile line on its side or at the base of the nail is a fun and eye-catching way to put a twist on the French. Experiment with different ways to honour the style while catering to your client’s likes and dislikes.

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Halo Gel Polish in Cannes £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

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Why not add some flower power to your French to sit on not one, but three smile lines at an angle? This delicate design is courtesy of @thejessnailedit.

“I think the most important factor when perfecting any French style is to use the right tools,” advises Erin Rice, Louella Belle ambassador. “I make sure the nail is perfectly prepped and I also check that my detailer brush is fully intact with no bristles sticking out. Take your time with the smile line, so the manicure has a neat finish.”

Marketing pointer Using builder gel and a bright blue gel polish hue, @vlh_nailsandbeauty opts for cuffs near the cuticle over the typical smile line in this design.

INK London 15mm Liner Brush £3.33 + VAT www.inknails.com

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We can see the halo in this stunning black French design by @sweetmilk.nails.

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“The reverse French is popular with clients and so are the double French lines as these can look chic and classy. You can also have fun with these styles by changing up the colours,” reveals Cara Morgan, Halo VIP.

“Take plenty of photos and videos of your alternative French designs and upload them to your social media platforms,” says Kirsty-Ray Reeves, senior LCN nail technician. “Instagram Reels are a great way to help you highlight and showcase designs.”

Light Elegance Color Gel in Do the Van Go-Go £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Contrasting cuticle cuffs make for a striking design in this look by @paintedbeautyhq.

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in Best Buds £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 www.louellabelle.co.uk

Entity Colour Couture In The Moment £10.95 + VAT www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk

The French fear

Many nail techs can be anxious about creating a French due to the precision and steady hand required. “Some even discourage clients from having it by saying things like, ‘your nails are too short’ or ‘I think a colour would look better’,” comments OPI’s Belinda Price. “In reality, if we face our French fears, it can add value at the till and increase turnover, and if marketed well you can become known as an expert. There are nail techs who are sought out for being fantastic at French and charge a premium for it.”

Experiment with side smile lines and a contrasting colour cuticle cuff to mix up the French, as demonstrated by Holly Morris-Last of Hollyistic Nails.

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Swap a crisp smile line for some abstract swirls as demonstrated in this design by Glitterbels ambassador, @glammertized.

Glitterbels Acrylic Powder in Pistachio £8.95 + VAT www.glitterbels.com

Mii Shine and Shield £7.25 + VAT www.gerrardinternational.com

One of the best things about the alternative French is that you can exercise your creative arm and experiment. If a client wants to dip their toe (or finger!) into a new style, give them a variety of options. From animal print, to swirls or florals, the sky’s the limit!

Tortie tips with a hint of summer are demonstrated in this look by @krm.beauty.

“Let your creativity flow and think outside of the box,” comments Emma Prescott, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “Change the shape of the smile line to whatever you want it to be; from frilled, chevron to half and half or ombré.” HD Pro Nails Pastel Art Gel in Pale Lilac £9.50 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com

Lecenté Foil in Wandalust £3.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

“Swirly tips are extremely popular with my clients as they’re fun, unique and attention-grabbing,” reveals Amber Hancock, TGB brand ambassador. “Dots and flowers are sought after by my clients seeking an alternative French,” adds Helen Clayton, Nailchemy educator and ambassador. “They are also perfect for clients that love nail art but are going a long time between appointments, such as clients going on holiday, because the growth by the cuticle is less noticeable.”

Inst

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Love is in the air with this sparkly French design by Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Sophie Donaldson.

Artistic Colour Revolution in Mystic Mint £5.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

The GelBottle Inc FoilX Foil Gel £16.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

The GelBottle Inc Nail Art Palette £6.75 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com om

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Pops of gold, purple and pink feature on the tips of this design by @rebekahxpritchard.

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50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Why not add some animal print to your alternative French designs? @lonyx.bygi chooses a green, leopard print look.

Get arty

be m.

NAILINSPO

“Most of my clients prefer a floral French, and in springtime both floral and bees are popular,” comments Sarah Roffi, INK London brand ambassador. “Many clients like an alternative French as growth is less noticeable. It’s important to not only understand individual preferences, but also the shape of their fingers and nail beds. This helps to determine what type of French may be most suitable.”

OUR FIRST EVER NATURAL ORIGIN, VEGAN NAIL LACQUER. ALSO AVAILABLE AT SALON SERVICES AND SALLY BEAUTY FROM JUNE 2022.

Notes from

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The Beauty Guru Salon owner, Habia advisor & inclusivity awareness educator, SAM MARSHALL (she/her), serves up advice to better your business & ensure that it’s inviting to all

Let’s talk about language

anguage is everything. Language evolves and changes. What we might have said three years ago may not be the right thing to say this year, so instead of fighting change, is it time we embrace it?

It is no longer about being politically correct; it’s about respecting other humans. If the language I use can reduce another person’s anguish, then I am certainly going to try my best to make them feel more validated in our everchanging society.

We’ve been here before There was once a time when only certain genders did specific jobs. Doctors were male, nurses were female, and women stayed at home and looked after children. Only 40 years ago (that’s the 1980s for those who remember!), there was a shift to use gender inclusive language. That language update prompted social change and contributed to greater gender equality. For example, the names of the air stewardess, policeman and fireman roles became flight attendant, police officer and firefighter. Mankind became humanity, and we realised that so many things that were gender favourable towards men could be neutral and inclusive. Hooray! There may have been uproar in terms of equal pay, the same rights to promotions and the right to be treated equally and fairly, but look at where we are today. While still a work in progress globally, women can do any job, earn decent money and can go back to work after having children. They can even leave their male partner at home looking after the children, and this is why the term ‘housewife’ is now ‘home-maker’ to include fathers and other parents. What we saw was change. Change can be uncomfortable but it can improve our lives. 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Where to start Have you ever considered auditing the words you use? This essentially means reading through your website copy, your social post captions and marketing materials and considering your language from a diversity and inclusion point of view. I would like to point out at this point that I have messed up. Many times. I have written training manuals using ‘him and his’ for a back wax and gendered students as ‘she’ for the likes of manicures and spray tans. Recently, someone pointed out that I referred to myself and a friend as ‘oldies’. Now, I bet a few of you reading this are thinking, ‘what’s wrong with that?’ while others will realise they have done the same, and understand that I was being ageist. It took a peer to point this out to me, and I did feel embarrassed at first, but I will never say it again now I can see how it came across. One of the quickest ways a person can tell if they and their loved ones will be welcome in your business, as an employee or client, is by observing the language you use.

“If the you want to be seen as a welcoming, forwardlanguage I use Dothinking business? Here are some thoughtcan reduce another provoking questions that might get you thinking: person’s anguish, • Do you still price by gender? • Do you still refer to your clients as ‘ladies’? then I am certainly • Does your language demonstrate going to try my best to awareness of non-binary people? • Do your forms offer only two gender options? make them feel more • Does your list of titles include ‘Mx’? • Do you ask for pronouns, and validated in our understand their importance? • Does your message exclude anyone? ever-changing • What could you do to be more inclusive with society.” your language? • Could you do more?

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST Updates Here are a few language updates that I came across recently. The first is about pronouns. I have written about pronouns before, and I think most people grasp what they are, but the language around how you ask about them is important. ‘Preferred pronouns’ would indicate that the person uses more than one, which is possible, e.g. ‘she/them’. In this case, you would ask which pronoun they prefer. A better term is ‘how do you identify?’ or simply ‘may I ask your pronouns?’ Now the second update is an interesting one – relationship language. ‘Opposite sex couples’ is now ‘mixed gender couples’ which steps away from traditional binary ideas that we can only be a man or a woman. This not only includes non-binary folk, but it also removes the word ‘sex’ which can be very confusing when talking about gender identity vs. sex assigned at birth. Your language includes or excludes.

NEWS BITE

You may be aware of the recent ban on conversion therapy. This would stop gay people from receiving it, but still allow trans people to be able to get this unorthodox treatment. A petition has been launched to ensure that trans people are fully protected under any conversion therapy ban. Created by Sammantha Harris, the petition reads: “It’s shameful that the UK intends to deliberately exclude trans people from a ban in contrast to the approach taken by many countries, despite trans people being at a greater risk of experiencing the harmful and degrading practices. “The government’s own figures show that trans people are nearly twice as likely to be at risk of experiencing the harmful and degrading practices of conversion therapy. A ban needs to ensure all forms of conversion therapy are banned.” I urge you to sign the petition by scanning here

“It is no longer about being politically correct; it’s about respecting other humans.”

“One of the quickest ways a person can tell if they and their loved ones will be welcome in your business, as an employee or client, is by observing the language you use.”

Money matters With the ever-rising cost of living, I am sure you have considered a number of ways to save money. As a salon owner, every penny counts, and here are a few tips that have helped me to save: • Ditch cotton pads in favour of cut up wax strips - they are cheaper and don’t lint like cotton wool. • Add gentle heat to your soak off services to speed them up. We used a classic wheat bag (put on a radiator to save on microwave electric!) over the wrapped nails. This will reduce your time and increase your profits. • Check your team’s usage – I once caught my team member using one cotton pad per nail to soak off with – they now cut each pad into six. Also, kitchen foil is cheaper than pre-cut foil and can be easily prepped beforehand.

www.thebeautyguru.me /Beautygurumediacity @thebeautygurusalon @beautygurusam

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

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HEALTHMATTERS

The comfort

factor Do you find yourself aching after a full day of clients? Whether you suffer from back pain or hand ailments, don’t ignore the aches, pains and strains – as they could lead to detrimental long-term effects.

Lucy Allen

“Ignoring niggling pains caused by poor working posture and practices can lead to chronic (long-term) or persistent pain and fatigue,” comments INK London brand ambassador, Lucy Allen. “This could result in lost revenue and the need for time off work, possibly even cutting short your career or having a negative effect on your mental wellbeing.”

While finding a comfortable salon setup that works for you can be a time-consuming task, the long-term benefits are profound – especially when you consider how much time you spend at the nail desk.

Back pain Back pain is arguably the most common discomfort that nail pros experience, and is often caused by poor posture due to unergonomic furniture, for example chairs without supportive backs or desk setups that aren’t the correct height.

Do you prioritise your client’s comfort over your own? Scratch investigates three common pains caused by nail tekking & how to prevent & alleviate them

“Without comfort you will suffer, and these effects can become debilitating and seriously impact the quality of your work,” comments Emma Prescott, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “I have had to take a break from nails several times because of chronic pain, which has had Emma Prescott a serious impact on my client base, income and mental health. I learned the hard way – please don’t do the same! “What may begin as a slight stiff neck could develop to the point you can’t turn your head,” she continues. “Achy wrists could turn into Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, which can stop you from working. That ache in your back could become so bad that you struggle to stand.”

Saddle up “When working, I sit on a saddle chair, which has helped ease my lower back problems,” reveals Georgie Smedley Group educator, Catherine Jimenez. “As it has no back, it ensures that my back is straight, that I bend Catherine Jimenez forward from my hips and do not sit backwards – both of which cause curvature of the lower back, and that I do not twist or cross my legs.” Pure Nails educator, Nicole Dowling, also uses a saddle stool to sit up straight. “Much of the time, you may be slumped over the nail desk or Nicole Dowling your client may sit far away and lean over the desk,” she says. “When on my saddle stool, I make sure clients are sitting as close to the desk as possible so their hands can reach me.” S-Pro Sophie Gas Lift Stool £61.59 + VAT/RRP £73.91 www.salon-services.com

56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

Are you sitting comfortably?

In your salon chair, your knees should be as close to a 90-degree angle as possible, with your thighs parallel to the floor and your feet resting flat.

REM Therapist Stool from £140 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

Wrist rest

“A raised wrist rest encourages both you and your client to sit up straighter, corrects GB Wrist Rest in The OG body alignment and from £50 inc VAT lifts the client’s hands www.gbwristrests.com up toward your eye level, reducing straining of your neck and upper back,” reveals Lucy Allen. She uses a wrist support from Sheffield based company, GB Wrist Rests. The company was founded by Gary Brooker as his nail tech wife, Lauren, was suffering from stiffness in her shoulder, upper back and neck. Wrist-Assist £45.99 + VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

Foot rest

“A foot rest is great for your posture if you have a high desk and chair but your feet don’t touch Claire Blincoe the ground,” reveals Georgie Smedley Group educator, Claire Blincoe. S-Pro Curva Footrest £55.49 + VAT/RRP £66.59 www.salon-services.com

Alternatively, tailor your desk to your height, such as with a Glitterbels nail desk, which can be customised. Glitterbels Deluxe Single Nail Desk from £800 + VAT and Deluxe Double Nail Desk from £1200 + VAT www.glitterbels.com

5 top tips for better spine health

By The British Chiropractic Association 1. Take a stand: Inactivity is a leading cause of back pain. If you spend most of your day sitting down, make sure that you take regular breaks, ideally every 20-30 minutes. Stand up, change position and walk around a little. 2. Stretch it out: If you struggle to get away from your seat at work, simple activities such as stretching, shoulder shrugging or even fidgeting in your seat can help to keep your back in line. 3. Get active: Exercise is key to a healthy back. This doesn’t mean that you need to embark on any extreme fitness regimes. Adding just a few extra minutes of walking a day can hugely benefit your posture. 4. Check your workspace: If your job primarily involves sitting at a desk for hours at a time, make sure your workspace is set up to support a comfortable position. This is different for everyone, so if you don’t feel comfortable in your current set up, try altering the height of your chair. 5. Straighten up: Try incorporating some simple exercises into your daily routine. We have developed a series of exercises designed to improve your posture and prevent back pain by promoting balance, strength and flexibility in the spine. Scan here

Hand & wrist pain

HEALTHMATTERS

Another common area of strain caused by tekking concerns the hands and wrists. There are a number of causes, including not using tools correctly, using tools for too long or straining too much to manoeuvre a client’s hands.

Tech tips

“After a long week of back-to-back clients, my hands cramp up, especially my thumb, which is extremely painful,” reveals Nicole Dowling. “This is why I take a few minutes between clients to stretch, in order to prevent my hands from cramping. My clients are very understanding if I need to pause to do this.” To prevent long-term pain, it is important to hold and use tools effectively. “When using tools such as E-files, make sure to undertake accredited training with a reputable provider,” comments Lucy Allen. “Work with the weight of the tool rather than against it and let the tool do the work for you, using the minimum pressure needed to do the job. Don’t grip your tools too tightly and keep your shoulders in a relaxed position while working.”

Gelish GoFile E-file £299.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Light Elegance Zippy Gen2 E-File £349 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

imix Polish Mixer £54.95 + VAT/RRP £79.95 www.sweetsquared.com

The solution to shaking bottles

Not only can hand and wrist strain, like Repetitive Strain Injury and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, be caused by tool use such as filing, but regular shaking of product bottles can also have a painful effect. The imix Polish Mixer alleviates the strain of shaking bottles by offering hands-free mixing of any gel polish or lacquer formula. The 6x6cm device uses magnetic mixing technology for streak-free application.

“This is what I call ‘nail technician elbow’,” says Loretta Walker, OPI educator. “Sometimes, I can’t even straighten my In order to steady Loretta Walker arm as my elbow hurts so their grip on a client’s hand, many techs lean one much, but a simple way of stopping this is to fold a spare towel and use it elbow on their desk, with like a cushion, preventing leaning on this pressure leading to a hard manicure table surface.” pain in this area.

Elbow pain

Similar to this concept, Lucy Allen recommends GB Wrist Rests’ ElPad. “It raises your elbow from the desk and is cushioned with dense memory foam for comfort,” she reveals. Alongside her wrist support from GB Wrist Rests, Lucy uses the ElPad £17.50 inc VAT www.gbwristrests.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros… @jen.the.n

ail.lady

S T A T S SKINCARE MATTERS

Just 7% of women aged 35 and older always feel happy with the appearance of their skin, reveals research by Hada Labo Tokyo. In a survey of 1,000 British women, sunburn, acne and eczema topped the list of skin health issues. Actress Helen Mirren was named as the number one skincare goddess, with those surveyed voting Joanna Lumley second and Davina McCall third.

COMPETITION FEVER

Most loved...

Over 25,000 hits landed on the Scratch Stars Awards section of the Scratch website during the entry period 1-31 March, as nail techs and salon owners explored the entry process.

TIKTOK TAKEOVER With its ability to turn a video viral overnight, TikTok has been embraced by the beauty sector – with 15% of worldwide beauty brands having an official account on the app. A whopping 52% of TikTok users say they discover new products on the app, which has led to beauty brands showcasing their products in creative ways to drive sales.

mescha m.com/ja

The highest earning beauty influencer is James Charles, who earns over $100,000 per combined post (YouTube and Instagram). The beauty enthusiast boasts a whopping 23.8 million followers!

rles

STAR QUALITY

James Charles shows off a varied nail design by Chaun Legend, showcasing styles requested by his followers.

RECRUITMENT CRISIS

Over half (57%) of hair and beauty businesses in the UK have unfilled vacancies, according to research commissioned by the NHBF.

/scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

Instagra

These fun hot cross bun nails gained a huge amount of attention when we reposted the style, created by @jen.the.nail.lady, on our Instagram feed. The Basingstoke based mobile nailist prepped with Navy Pro Tools, then used a liner brush with shades from The GelBottle Inc.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of finance & legal affairs – Denise Spragg

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS MARIAN NEWMAN BEM shares stats & observations from The Federation’s Allergy Survey

ALLERGY SURVEY: KEY FINDINGS

large part of the nail sector is aware of an ‘allergy epidemic’ that we and our clients are suffering from. Acrylate based nail coatings have been available and used since, at least, the late 1970s and there are, of course, incidences of allergies naturally occurring in some people, and the occasional reaction due to overexposure. These incidences would be expected in less than 10% of all users – but the last decade has seen some drastic changes. The situation was identified by the British Association of Dermatologists in 2018, mostly due to the rise in allergies in consumers of retail UV cured There is a free products (aka UV gel polish). This situation video on some of spilt over into the professional sector. this research and Nail professionals and their clients were the mechanics of how experiencing unusual and often very allergies happen at severe symptoms. The symptoms were www.nailknowledge.org puzzling but with some recent research, the situation is becoming clearer. The Federation of Nail Professionals is in many conversations at government level regarding the type of products that are causing problems, and Trading Standards has received a number of reports. Anecdotal information is one thing, but the authorities need numbers. With this in mind, The Feds decided to launch an allergy survey to understand, in some way, the numbers of allergies amongst nail pros and their clients. We ran this survey during February and had around 600 participants in total. The survey was anonymous and the full report has been sent to the Office of Product Safety & Standards, part of the Department for Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy. Due to funds available, The Feds were unable to create a professional survey and report, so what we have is the best we could manage. The biggest problem is that so few people with symptoms were able to get a dermatological patch test as the NHS waiting list is 60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

12-24 months and a private consultation is costly. The pandemic made matters worse. But I must emphasise that the problem arose pre-pandemic. With the difficulty of discovering exactly what ingredients were causing the problems (plus a lack of education and understanding), many techs and pros tried various brands which exacerbated the issue. We asked many questions; firstly about nail pros and then about their clients.

NAIL PROS & ALLERGY STATS

From 584 responses, 28% have experienced unwanted reactions but only 12% have received dermatological results (from 313 responses). This is mostly due to either lack of availability, private costs or no inclination or time. This also means that allergic reactions are largely self-diagnosed. Not only that, but there is no information on exactly which ingredient(s) is the cause. How can anyone without that diagnosis know what the way forward is? Trying out different brands is not the answer. The time it took to exhibit an unwanted reaction is higher between less than six months and six to 12 months, and 49% of those that answered fell into this bracket. This demonstrates how quickly this can happen, as 18% took over two years and 15% over five years. According to our survey, 74% used a matching UV lamp to their chosen gel polish system. This is a good result. However, the survey may not have been of interest to those that don’t use a matching system, or are unreachable. From the messages I receive, it is clear that both regulated and accredited courses have teachers who are also in denial about this important fact, and the new NOS addresses this issue. Another interesting response is that out of 247 responses, a massive 64% have changed brands. But have they changed to a brand that suits them and their clients? Hypoallergenic is good but there is no guarantee that no allergies will occur.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

From 487 responses, half use a HEMA-free brand. HEMA is not an ‘evil child’ – it is the percentage of HEMA used that is important, and 89% have not experienced any unwanted reactions to HEMA-free products (323 responses).

CLIENTS & ALLERGY STATS

A huge 38% of clients (from 591 responses) have experienced unwanted reactions. This is potentially 38% of clients that could be lost, and unfortunately many have not had patch tests. With regard to ‘home use’ or DIY kits, 24% of 314 responses have been those clients.

• Using a mismatched UV lamp can cause undercuring. • A high percentage of monomers has been proved to cause ‘leeching’ during the wearing of a coating if undercured. (Leeching is where unreacted monomers in the coating are escaping the coating onto the skin during normal wear, causing unwanted reactions.) In conclusion, this epidemic can be pinpointed to a perfect storm of imports (in the mid 2010s) that have a high percentage of monomers in their formulas, plus a total lack of good education with the proliferation of short courses that are not fit for purpose.

“A huge 38% of clients (from 591 So many of these short courses are not qualifications. At best, they are CPD responses) have (Continued Personal Development) that experienced unwanted should follow a robust beginner course, whether regulated or accredited. reactions. This is potentially Regulations for our sector will be introduced. It will take time but will 38% of clients that involve regulated qualifications and the could be lost, and FNP is working tirelessly to make sure they fit for purposes for our sector. But unfortunately many wewilldobeneed you to join as an FNP member and for brands to financially support us. have not had What is such a shame is that 63% (265 patch tests.” This report deals with products and allergies and responses) have not contacted the brand used and Regarding the length of time when clients showed symptoms, the majority (48%) was between 0 and 12 months. There have been many responses regarding the symptoms that have been exhibited, but in the absence of medically diagnosed symptoms, the majority are recognised rather than diagnosed. Suffice to say that onycholysis, hyperkeratosis, irritated skin, blistered, itchy, dry and cracked skin are the most common with usually more than one exhibited at the same time. The extreme reactions have included destruction of the nail plate.

94% (286 responses) have not contacted any authority. From another recent research project (that is only available to the authorities) the conclusion is that: • Isobornyl acrylate (IBOA) and hydroxymethyl methacrylate (HEMA) in high percentages are the most common problems in the ingredients. • Applying a coating too thickly causes an undercuring of the product.

www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

we will soon unveil a video revealing some personal stories of those affected by the situation, including those that have experienced mental health problems, lost their careers and a lot of money. All of these interviews will be assessed by a medical health practitioner to explain the personal impact and how to deal with it.

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61

SHOW FEATURES INCLUDE

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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

The magic of

learning Prepare to be dazzled by Nailchemy Academy’s education offerings & the team members that can help transform your skills

HELENA BIGGS REPORTS omerset based nail brand, Nailchemy, has been sprinkling its magic across the nail sector since September 2017, offering a diverse range of professional products and education courses to both nail newbies and pros eager to convert.

“We pride ourselves on Founded by husband and wife duo, Dave and Hayley Partridge, building the Nailchemy prides itself on its customer confidence of our service and care; creating products that suit the needs of busy salon life students so they are and client demands. The Nailchemy Hayley has written each of the 13 able to progress accredited Academy serves up courses to support full diploma courses and product knowledge and promote within their nail conversion courses. “Once a student proper application for stunning and longenrols onto a Nailchemy Academy career.” course, lasting results across both nails and beauty. they receive a welcome pack Dave & Hayley Partridge

“From 2011, before Nailchemy existed, Hayley ran the successful Feel Better Days Academy, following a number of years teaching in our local further education college,” Dave reveals. “When we founded Nailchemy, we sought to offer world-class education so updated the existing Feel Better Days Academy courses and relaunched under the Nailchemy Academy umbrella in 2018.” Hayley, as head of education, works closely with Nailchemy Academy manager, Sophie Williams, to support the 26 education team members. “Courses range from professional nail diplomas to complementary therapy courses, accredited by The Guild of Beauty Therapists and ABT,” Hayley reveals. “Our courses are aimed at all levels of ability, from beginners to advanced, and they are designed to support each learning style.” 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

including a course manual, folder and welcome letter,” Dave reveals. Courses are initially theory based and the comprehensive manual covers all aspects of the course. This theory is also delivered and assessed in the classroom during the practical element of the training. “Each student is supported through their theory time by their tutor and the Academy manager if required, then once they have attended and successfully completed their practical training, tutors will present them with an accredited certificate. “After a student has passed their chosen course, they receive lifetime support from tutors and the Nailchemy Academy, either directly or through our social media support group online,” Dave continues. “We pride ourselves on building the confidence of our students so they are able to progress within their nail career. We rate all successes as an achievement – from gaining the confidence to post a picture on social media to winning industry awards. We welcome all and celebrate everyone’s achievements with them in this magical industry.”

EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

SAVE 10% ON ALL COURSES WITH PROMO CODE SCRATCH Offer valid on courses booked 1-31 May.

THE COURSES Professional Nail Courses • Professional Manicure Diploma – 2 days • Professional Gel Polish Diploma (inc. kit) – 2 days • Gel Polish Conversion – 1 day • Fiber Gel Tips Diploma (inc. kit) – 2 days • Fiber Gel Tips Conversion – 1 day • Professional Aura Acrylic-Gel Diploma (inc. kit) – 3 days • Aura Acrylic-Gel Conversion – 1 day • Professional Genesis Acrylic Nails Diploma with Tips – 3 days + 1 day exam • Genesis Acrylic Nails Conversion – 1 day • Genesis Acrylic Nail Sculpting Workshop – 1 day • Genesis Acrylic Nail Refresher – 1 day • Professional Pedicure Diploma – 2 days Combination Nail Courses • Manicure/Aura Acrylic-Gel Combi Course (inc. Aura kit) – 3 days • Manicure/Acrylic Combi Course (inc. acrylic kit) – 5 days • Manicure/Gel Polish/Aura Acrylic-Gel Combi Course (inc. gel polish & Aura kit) – 5 days • Manicure/Gel Polish/Fiber Gel Tips Combi Course (inc. gel polish & Fiber Gel Tips kit) – 5 days Professional Complementary Therapy Courses • Professional Indian Head Massage Diploma – 1 day • GTi Holistic Massage Diploma – 1 day • GTi Ear Candling Diploma – 1 day • Professional Thai Foot Massage Diploma – 1 day • Hot Stone Massage Diploma – 1 day Professional Beauty Courses • Eyelash & Eyebrow Tinting Diploma – 1 day • Eyelash Extensions Diploma – 2 days • GTi Russian Volume Eyelash Extensions Diploma – 2 days • GTi Lash Lift & Tint Diploma – 1 day • Professional Warm Waxing Diploma – 1 day • GTi Eyebrow Lamination Diploma – 1 day • GTI Definition Brows – 1 day • Spray Tanning Diploma – 1 day • GTi Female Intimate Waxing Diploma – 5-7 hours • GTi Facial Treatment Diploma – 7 hours Multiple payment options are available for all Nailchemy Academy education offerings including a deposit payment, Klarna – Pay later, PayPal – Pay in 3 and Payl8r finance.

THE EDUCATORS The Nailchemy Academy boasts a diverse team of 26 educators across the UK. “When appointing an educator, we consider numerous qualities, including a passion for education and a commitment to self development – as well as the development of others,” reveals Hayley. “In an industry that doesn’t sit still, learning about the latest techniques and treatments in nails, beauty and complementary therapies is vital and each of our educators is able to take this knowledge and impart it on students, adapting to various learning styles and needs.” Scratch puts the spotlight on five of Nailchemy Academy’s 26 expert educators…

ALISON TIERNEY Location: Blackpool, Lancashire About: “I started doing nails 13 years ago after I’d had my first baby,” Alison comments. “I formerly worked as a manager in the travel sector and as much as I loved it, I needed something that fitted around childcare and my husband’s work shifts so completed an L&P Acrylic foundation course. “I started using Nailchemy products in 2018 and from the moment I received my first order, I was hooked. The gel polish shades are stunning.” Education: Alison offers courses both online and face-to-face across the Fylde coast and northwest. She teaches manicure, pedicure, gel polish, E-file techniques, L&P acrylic and Aura acrylic-gel. “I completed my AET during the first lockdown and I knew that I wanted to teach for Nailchemy. Many students who have completed the Manicure Diploma have then enrolled on our courses and are now experienced, successful techs. There is no better feeling than seeing students progress.” Loves: “The Lupin gel polish shade is the most amazing blue hue; perfect for any occasion. I love finishing a Lupin overlay with Hocus Pocus, a fine glitter top coat.”

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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

ELLIE FLEMING Location: Hull, Yorkshire About: Ellie began her nail career as a mobile tech 12 years ago following a serious illness. “I wanted to work in an industry I was passionate about and as I was a single parent at the time, working on a mobile basis afforded me flexibility. I went on to rent a space in a salon for nine years while continuing to learn new skills.” Ellie took the leap and opened her own salon and training centre and loves teaching as it refreshes her skills and she enjoys watching her students progress. Education: Ellie’s teaching style is inclusive, interactive and fun. The newest member of the Nailchemy education team, Ellie teaches a variety of nail and beauty courses, including gel polish, hard gel nails, brow lamination and waxing, across Humberside and East Yorkshire. “Quality training is essential for keeping our industry standards high and I want to give future nail techs the best foundation to start their career. I feel that learning happens best when students feel engaged and enjoy themselves,” she enthuses. Loves: “Nailchemy appealed to me for its individuality. The products are fantastic quality and there is such a diverse range,” Ellie reveals. “I’m drawn to blue, green and purple shades so adore Terra from the Dragon Eye gel polish collection.”

SAMANTHA WINDSOR Location: Clacton-on-Sea, Essex About: “I started my nail training back in 2014, with the intention of just doing my own nails,” Samantha reveals. “I soon started doing the nails of family members alongside my job as a training and compliance manager. It was when I gave birth to my son that I realised I needed a more flexible working life, and that’s when I decided to become a self-employed nail tech.” When Samantha opened her home salon, she wanted to use just one brand. Her compliance background meant that she asked lots of safety related questions before making her choice. “I contacted a number of companies, and from the replies I received Nailchemy really stood out from the crowd,” she enthuses. “The team was not only quick to respond, but so knowledgeable. I bought a few products to try and have never looked back.” Education: Samantha become an educator for Nailchemy in January 2020 and covers much of the Essex area. She teaches the Manicure, Gel Polish, Fiber Gel, Aura Acrylic-Gel and Hard Gel courses, as well as conversion and refresher courses. Loves: “My favourite course to teach is Gel Polish, as it’s my favourite medium to work with,” Samantha explains. “I also really love teaching the Manicure Diploma as it sets students up with a firm foundation of knowledge to build upon. When it comes to shades, Nailchemy has such a huge range – and I’m drawn to purple hues.”

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PAMELA FRASER-BRAWN Location: Blairgowrie, Scotland About: Former nail biter, Pamela, began doing her own nails in 2011 to try and kick the habit. Her skills progressed, she signed up for her first nail course in 2021, and her business has grown ever since. “As soon as I tried Nailchemy products, I knew I’d found a brand I loved,” she explains. “The products do exactly what they say they do, there is so much variety and the company’s customer service is exceptional. I joined the Nailchemy family in early 2021 after completing my teaching qualification.” Education: Pamela teaches the full cohort of Nailchemy nail, lash, brow, make-up and waxing courses. “My favourite course to teach is the Acrylic Nails Diploma. I love that as an educator, you can give the gift of knowledge and practical skills. That is such a wonderful thing to do as you see someone’s confidence grow and develop. You also learn a few things along the way.” Loves: “My favourite Nailchemy shade is Lupin, a deep purple/ blue metallic hue. Many of my clients love it too!”

TONI JELLEY Location: Poole, Dorset About: Toni has been in the beauty industry for 18 years, and her love for nails blossomed in the last seven years following the introduction of gel polish. A successful business owner, Toni enjoys practicing nail artistry and became an educator in September 2019, before joining the Nailchemy team in September 2021. Education: “I have a dance teaching background so know how to break things down for my students so they can learn at their own pace,” Toni reveals. “I offer training across Bournemouth and Poole and in the Dorset area in between running and working in my busy salon. Toni offers a range of Nailchemy nail and beauty courses and enjoys teaching the Acrylic Refresher training. “Students learn so much on this course and how to get out of bad habits or refine their skills,” she continues. “I get a real buzz when I see my students succeed and grow as techs and beauty therapists.” Loves: “My love for Nailchemy came instantly after I bought its Christmas Advent Calendar in 2020,” Toni reveals. “A note came with the order that was sealed in wax; it was just magical! The products were stunning and Dave and Hayley are so supportive. The company offers encouragement, fabulous products and great education. My favourite shade for spring is Tiffany Teal, which looks stunning with Nailchemy’s Wicked Top Coat.”

JOIN THE TEAM! Nailchemy is currently seeking educators based in Wales and Northern Ireland to join the Nailchemy Academy educator team. For more information, email courses@nailchemy.co.uk. www.nailchemy.co.uk /nailchemy @nailchemy /Nailchemy

@NailchemyUK

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

The only awards for the UK nail industry This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Scratch Stars Awards; a decade celebrating the passion, skill and care of UK nail professionals and businesses.

THE FINALISTS 2022

Overwhelmed by impressive entries, the first challenge was in the hands of team Scratch to determine five finalists who shone in each category. Check out the chosen finalists who will soon step up to the next stage of this exciting competition in the bid to be crowned a Scratch Star...

L&P TECH OF THE YEAR sponsored by Katie Barnes Tool Range

DONNA JONES

JADE BARBER

Cornwall

Kent

KAREN BROWN

Clackmannanshire

KATY ROSE

Powys

KYLEA WHERRY

Shropshire

GEL TECH OF THE YEAR sponsored by Bio Sculpture Gel & Evo

ALEXANDRA LEPADATU

Hampshire

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BARBARA WESOLOWSKA

Aberdeenshire

CATRIONA LEITH

Cambridgeshire

JUSTYNA PRYKE

West Yorkshire

LEILA MONROY

Edinburgh

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

NATURAL NAIL SPECIALIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by The Nail Lab UK

ANTONIA CATALANO

KAY KIRSOP

Lincolnshire

LUCY PRICE

Hertfordshire

South Yorkshire

METTA FRANCIS

TANYA JESKINS

Surrey

Cornwall

GEL POLISH STYLIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Salon System Gellux

ALISHA GRIMES

Cambridgeshire

CHARLOTTE EDWARDS

Warwickshire

JENNIFER SEALES

Glasgow

JIAK HING

Greater Manchester

PAIWA DREW

East Sussex

POLISH & PAINT ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Brillbird UK

AMANDA BYRNE

Greater Manchester

AMANDA TRIVETT

Devon

DANIELLE BRINDLEY

SARAH KAY ABBOTT

SCARLETT SENTER

Fife

Norfolk

Staffordshire

MIXED MEDIA ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Kirsty Meakin

DOMINIQUE SHARPE

Cambridgeshire

DONNA JONES

Cornwall

KAMILA BOROWIEC

KAYLEY CAIRNS

Worcestershire

Essex

SARAH KAY ABBOTT

Fife

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

ONE STROKE ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by HD Professional Nail Systems

ANNA KOZLOWSKA

CATRIONA LEITH

KRISTINA HUXHAM

NERINGA ALSAUSKIENE

Cambridgeshire

Devon

Gloucestershire

ZSUZSANNA FECSIK

Derbyshire

NAIL STYLIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Glitterbels

BRIGITTA FAJT

CATHERINE BURNS

GAIL NICHOLLS

KAYLEY CAIRNS

TÂNIA MOREIRA

Bedfordshire

Swansea

Staffordshire

Essex

Nottinghamshire

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR sponsored by Sweet Squared

KIRSTY PARKER

KYM MOODY

Devon

Hertfordshire

STACEY NICHOLLS

MICHELLE BROOKES

Yorkshire

Cardiff

VICTORIA TRAFFORD

West Yorkshire

MOBILE NAILIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by LCN UK

ANTA WILKINS

CLARE WOODCOCK

London

Surrey

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EME AGARD

West Midlands

KAYLEIGH PROWSE

Northamptonshire

LISA DENNIS

Wiltshire

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

HOME NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by Pure Nails - Halo Gel Polish

BEAU'S BEAUTY BOX

Devon

CONTESSA NAILS & BEAUTY

Wales

MATRIX NAILS

NAILCRAFT BY VONNY

South Lanarkshire

Leicestershire

NAILS BY MARI

London

NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by The GelBottle Inc.

BEAU BELLE

Gwent

HARD AS NAILS STUDIO

West Midlands

SKULLEN COLLECTIVE LTD

TIGERLILLY NAILS

Tyne and Wear

Dorset

TOWNHOUSE KNIGHTSBRIDGE

London

NAIL & BEAUTY SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by O.P.I.

BEAUTY AT THE BAY

BELLINI NAILS & BEAUTY

LOVE BEAUTY GATLEY

Essex

Glasgow

Cheshire

QUEEN B LUXURY NAIL THE NAIL & BEAUTY & BEAUTY LOUNGE LOUNGE

London

West Midlands

NAIL TEAM OF THE YEAR sponsored by Salon Services

GLITTERBELS EDUCATORS

Nationwide

GLOSS

HW NAIL SYSTEMS

LECENTÉ

Isle of Man

Nationwide

NAIL & BEAUTY EXCELLENCE

Nationwide

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

SOCIAL MEDIA STAR OF THE YEAR sponsored by Glossify

AMBER HANCOCK

DIANA PAJEVA

KIRSTY MEAKIN

METTA FRANCIS

TWINZ NAILZ TRAINING ACADEMY

Surrey

Edinburgh

Staffordshire

Surrey

Lancashire

THE SHOOTING STAR AWARD presented by Scratch magazine

CHARLI JEPSON

CLAWGASMIC NAIL NETWORK

LAUREN MCBRIDE

SALON CHAT

MINO VO

THE NAIL SECTOR VISIONARY AWARD presented by The FNP

MILLIE KENDALL OBE

SAM MARSHALL

SAMMY MACDONALD

SUZANNE CLAYTON

THERESA FODDERING

SERVICES TO THE NAIL INDUSTRY sponsored by Sweet Squared

HAZEL DIXON

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JOANNA TOMPKINS

KATIE BARNES

MADDI COOK

MARIA CIENTANNI

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

WHAT WHAT HAPPENS HAPPENS NEXT? NEXT? Finalists Finalists will will go go through through a a second second and and final final judging judging stage stage before before the the winner winner of of each each category category isis announced announced at at the the Scratch on Sunday Sunday 24 24 July July in in London. London. Scratch Stars Stars Party Party on Individuals Individuals in in the the artistic artistic and and technical technical categories categories will will be be required required to to create create a a nail nail style style to to a a set set brief brief at at LCBT, LCBT, London, London, before before a a brief brief interview interview with with judges, judges, put put forward forward by by sponsors. sponsors. Educators Educators will will be be required required to to submit submit a a theory theory lesson lesson and and be be interviewed interviewed by by shopped. an an independent independent judging judging panel, panel, and and salons salons and and mobile mobile nailists nailists will will be be mystery mystery shopped. Those Those in in the the team team and and media media categories categories will will be be required required to to submit submit further further information information to to support support their their entry. entry. These These will will all all then then be be judged judged by by a a group group of of esteemed esteemed judges judges from from across across the the industry industry to to determine determine each each champion. champion.

Winners will be revealed at the Scratch Stars Party 2022 Date: Date: Sunday Sunday 24 24 July July 2022 2022 Time: Time: 7pm 7pm -- 1.30am 1.30am

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Venue: Venue: The The Steel Steel Yard, Yard, London London Tickets: Tickets: £79 £79 ++ VAT VAT (standing) (standing) £99 £99 ++ VAT VAT (seated (seated awards awards ticket) ticket)

Tickets Tickets include include canapés canapés && aa 33 hour hour free free bar! bar!

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www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars With With thanks thanks to to the the sponsors sponsors of of the the 2022 2022 event: event:

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STYLE WITH

e i d a S

‘ Creative nail expert & content creator for TGB & Peacci, SADIE JORDAN, shares on-trend nail styles, tips & steps

10 top tips to master an ombré with nail polish

came across an image of a vertical pastel ‘ ombré design and loved it, so I just had to film a tutorial for the Peacci Instagram account. I typically use gel polish for my nail art designs due to its longevity, but find that nail polish and a sponge offers an easy, speedy way to create an ombré look.

This technique takes me way back to the days of watching @cutepolish on YouTube and hopelessly trying to recreate her designs at home. At least the results have improved over the years! ‘

Scan here to watch the Peacci ombré tutorial, and check out my top tips below. 1. Experiment with different sponges to see what works for you. Cleaning sponges are more porous than make-up sponges so will apply colour differently. 2. Use tape to remove lint from your sponge before applying polish to it. 3. Apply an even coat of white polish as a base to make your colours more vibrant. 4. Choose colours that aren’t too contrasting to make blending easier. 5. Moisturise the skin around the nails with cuticle oil before sponging on the polish to create a barrier and make clean-up easier. 6. Ensure you move the sponge slightly left and right (or up and down for a horizontal ombré) when dabbing it on the nail to mix the colours together. 7. Use an angled brush for precise clean-up around the cuticle area. My go-to is the One Stroke Brush from The GelBottle Inc. 8. Be mindful of air bubbles and try to smooth them out before the polish dries. 9. Use any excess product left on the sponge to increase the coverage. 10. Allow slightly less drying time than usual before applying the top coat to help with blending, and be liberal with its application. 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

STEP-BY-STEP: Funky French tips

It’s no secret that I adore ombré nail designs. Here, I show how to combine the ombré and French styles to achieve beautiful rainbow tips. This design is perfect for summer days or holidays abroad and can be created with any colour combination your client desires. I’ve used many colours, and rainbow nails make me smile every time I look at my fingertips!

1. Apply base coat and one coat of TGB’s Crème to all nails and cure. 2. Using TGB’s Daisy and a liner brush, create a deep French tip by painting two diagonal lines and a horizontal line to map out its thickness. Next, paint a curve to form your smile line. 3. Paint the tip using TGB’s Daisy and cure. 4. Using a detail brush, paint each half of the nail tip using two chosen shades, leaving a small gap in the centre. 5. Mix the two shades together onto a palette and place this shade in the gap on the tip. 6. Use a wiggling motion with the liner brush to swirl the shades together and blend with light, downward strokes. 7. Clean up any product outside of the tip with a brush before curing and repeat steps 5 and 6 if needed. 8. Apply TGB Extreme Shine Top Coat to finish the look. Repeat the process on the other nails using different shades.

Products used

• TGB 2in1 Base Coat • TGB Gel Polish shades in Créme, Daisy, Apricot Flower, Turner’s Sunset, Flashing Lights, Pavilion Garden, Periwinkle and In Bloom • TGB Liner Brush • TGB Detail Brush • TGB One Stroke Brush • TGB Extreme Shine Top Coat Follow Sadie:

TOP TIP

As the tip is a small area, use the TGB Detail Brush for more precise blending instead of the wider Ombré Brush, and use a bright pink instead of a red in your rainbow for a softer look.

@sadiejnails

The GelBottle Inc products are available via www.thegelbottle.com /thegelbottleinc

@the_gelbottle_inc

/TheGelBottleInc

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Steps

SUSTAINABILITY The BBCo’s Sustainable Beauty Coalition committee members share industry news & guidance to support eco efforts

ABOUT NATALIE DEACON Executive head of corporate affairs & sustainability at Avon – part of the Natura &Co group of companies

Natalie is focused on igniting Avon’s purpose throughout and beyond the organisation. This includes leadership for the company’s ambitious sustainability targets; from addressing the climate crisis through to tackling equality and inclusion.

Natalie is a passionate advocate for Avon’s mission to create a better world for women, leading the company’s core purpose to deliver positive social impact through support of women and the issues that matter to Avon’s communities. She is also responsible for communications across all aspects of Avon’s sustainability efforts, from corporate responsibility reporting through to engaging and inspiring its independent beauty entrepreneurs to embrace sustainability. Natalie has over 20 years’ experience in PR and communications. She is known for her energy, determination to deliver, and combination of strategic thinking with can-do pragmatism. www.avonworldwide.com /avonworldwide @avonworldwide

How small actions can make a big impact

reen beauty, clean beauty, natural beauty, eco beauty, bio-beauty, waterless beauty. Just how many sustainability buzzwords are there? Too many, it seems! However, these buzzwords have come to the fore because we need to tackle the urgent issues facing our climate and communities. Global warming is increasing, plastic pollution has not yet peaked, ecological diversity is endangered, inequalities are growing and human rights are violated every single day. This can feel overwhelming. It can sometimes be hard to connect these big issues to our daily lives and actions. So where do we begin when trying to make the right choices for ourselves, our businesses and our industry?

Progress over perfection The great news is that we can take action every day to help build a more sustainable future for ourselves, our industry and our planet. Sustainability is a journey, and there is no such thing as the perfect product or ingredient. There are rarely perfect choices. We’ve all heard about the horrors of recycling

Download a free copy of the Planet Positive Beauty Guide for you, your business and your customers by scanning here

76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

being shipped to other countries to become landfill. There are trade-offs across sustainability: glass can replace plastic but has a higher carbon footprint, harvesting natural ingredients is not always ecologically sustainable, and boycotting certain ingredients can impact local communities reliant on them. But that doesn’t mean we can’t try to make better choices regarding who we buy from, the products we use and how we dispose of them. To quote Winston Churchill: ‘Perfection is the enemy of progress.’ I firmly believe that if we make sustainable choices to the best of our knowledge, ultimately we will make progress.

Learn the lingo Unfortunately, there is a lot of complicated terminology in sustainability. The downside is that things are often over-simplified, which isn’t helpful either. That’s why we end up with terms like ‘green beauty’ which can be misleading and open to interpretation, or products and solutions end up being touted as a sustainability cure-all, which is never going to be the case. To help customers and industry insiders learn the lingo, the British Beauty Council’s Sustainable Beauty Coalition has created the Planet Positive Beauty Guide. Working with experts across the industry, the guide decodes the jargon with straightforward descriptions of the sustainability terms often used in the world of beauty. Every product we buy or use and almost every action we take each day has a sustainability impact – whether it’s carbon emissions,

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

“I firmly believe that if we make sustainable choices to the best of our knowledge, ultimately we will make progress.” ecological impact, water and waste footprint or the working conditions of people supplying the products. The Green Beauty Guide is a great starting point to understand how it all connects and what to watch out for.

Everyday changes Avon works via millions of ‘Avon Representatives’ across the world – all self-employed beauty entrepreneurs, and many who are also nail technicians and beauty therapists working in salons or as mobile therapists. We’re frequently asked by our Reps what they can do to be more sustainable. They want to feel confident in the choices they are making – whether that’s shopping for their beauty must-haves or running their beauty business. To try and help, we share recycling tips and information on topics from sustainable sourcing through to product packaging. In essence, the answer to ‘what can I do?’ involves making small changes every day.

If we’re going to make things better for our planet and its people, there is no perfect solution, no one law or material or company that will reverse the damage and magically solve the crises facing our climate and communities. Every individual can make a positive impact on our world. Imagine the impact we could create if every person started to reuse and refill a container several times instead of single use, or if we all stopped using non-biodegradable wipes, or if everyone changed to solid soaps instead of liquid (which have a higher packaging, water and carbon footprint)? Small actions like these can create a tidal wave of change. We’re all on a journey and I’m excited for how we will get there. There are not always perfect choices when it comes to sustainability, but progress will come from the collective power of individual choices and actions. Together we really can change the world!

Keep up-to-date with sustainable news in the industry and the work of the Sustainable Beauty Coalition by subscribing to SBC News at www.britishbeautycouncil.com/sustainable-beauty-coalition @sustainablebeautycoalition @_sbcofficial

PURPOSE OF THE SBC The Sustainable Beauty Coalition exists to: • Actively encourage and strengthen one collective industry voice to accelerate collaboration, knowledge and bolder collective efforts. • Create stronger frameworks and policies for the beauty sector in the UK with sustainability and green credentials as a central focus. • Proactively collaborate with other bodies to coordinate and accelerate the beauty industry’s response to sustainability. • Develop and implement a clear strategy, roadmap and initiatives to accelerate our climate-positive impact. • Champion the Green Economy and Green Recovery utilising existing and potential networks. • Champion the work of the industry and secure government support for further green initiatives. • Work with the government towards its ‘net zero by 2050’ commitment. • Elevate our work on an international level utilising global contacts, brands and events such as COP26. • Monitor the progress of the British Beauty Council roadmap against the SBC’s framework and keep these goals and the overall execution of initiatives under review.

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

She Nail’d It

Location: Tamworth, Staffordshire Lydia Trenfield honed her nail skills in a salon until she fell pregnant and decided a change was in order. She opened her own nail studio, She Nail’d It, from home in order to work around her family life. “During lockdown, I spent a lot of time improving my nail art skills via workshops and through interacting with other nail technicians on social media platforms,” she recalls. “The community was so supportive, which helped my social media following to grow.” Lydia offers gel polish overlays, L&P acrylic enhancements and luxury mani/pedis. “I use The GelBottle Inc, Glitterbels and Elim products as I love the quality,” she reveals. “Builder gel services with nail art are popular and my regular clients give me free rein when it comes to design. It’s a great feeling to be so trusted by them.” Clients enjoy nail services from a neutral environment. “I have sought to create a calm and classy interior that makes my clients feel relaxed and comfortable,” says Lydia. “I spent a lot of time choosing the perfect paint shades and I think my favourite part of the studio is the shelving that showcases the variety of nail colours I offer.”

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@she_naild_it_

Nails by Hari Eva Location: Telford, Shropshire

On attaining gel and L&P certification in October 2020, Hari Hatfield had planned on treating friends and family only on a part-time basis. “As soon as I qualified, we were hit with a second and third lockdown. I used this time to focus on growing my social media following and work on my nail art skills. Business has boomed since then,” Hari reveals. “In February 2020, I was contacted by Pure Nails to become a Halo VIP and never expected to grow as much as I have in such a short space of time.” Hari’s business started out in her spare bedroom with a dining chair, her old dressing table and a handful of core nail shades. “As my business grew, I wanted to work from a space that was more accessible for clients,” she comments. “There is a large study room on the ground floor of my home, which has its own front entrance, so I moved my nail room there. “Working from home is so convenient as I can pop in and out of my salon room and practice nail designs in the evening, as I have a full-time job alongside my role in nails,” Hari smiles. Proud of her home salon and the positive comments she has received from clients, Hari has chosen a modern, minimal and monochrome theme. “I was inspired by the Halo Gel Polish black bottles, and I have incorporated gold features and green foliage to add some texture into the space,” she enthuses. “I wanted my salon room to appeal to everybody, regardless of gender, style or age. I want anyone that comes to feel welcome and comfortable, while I maintain a sophisticated aesthetic.” @nailsby_harieva 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

RADIANCE BEAUTY SPA WESTGATE, HALIFAX T: 01282 619 977

E: SALES@REM.CO.UK

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Educator & artistic nail stylist, ABIGAIL SIMONS, share her favourite designs, techniques & product essentials

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Abigail Simons Age – 41 years Business name – Beautiful Nails by Abi Simons Location – Salford, Manchester Years in nails – 11 Trained with – London College of Beauty Therapy Favourite products – Artistic Colour Gloss, particularly Correction Gel and the Artistic Gel On Xtensions. My go-to tools for cuticle prep are by PersoNAILity. Favourite nail technique – Cuticle prep is so satisfying and essential for any service. I love transforming the nails of biters, too! Favourite nail design – French and marbling look so effective. I enjoy being creative and I regularly try my hand at boxed art styles. Career ambition & vision – My ultimate dream is to win a Scratch Star Award. I am dyslexic, so to be recognised for doing a

great job in an industry I adore would mean so much. I work from home and have five children, and some of them have autism, so I want my business to flourish so I can provide them with the best support possible. My appointment books are full, so my goal is to take the next step in my career and open a salon. I’m also an educator for Louella Belle and would love to develop the teaching arm of my business. Who do you admire in the industry? There are so many amazing people in this industry. Jacqueline O’Sullivan is not just a lovely person, but an excellent and supportive teacher and mentor. Melanie Lewendon is an exceptional educator and I aspire to be like her. I’ve never met Kirsty Meakin, but her YouTube channel is brilliant and I love her presenting style. Finally, the late Lisa Crook, founder of Louella Belle, was such an inspiration to me. Her sons, Jamie and Darren, who are joint CEOs of the business, have grown Louella Belle from strength to strength and I love working for the company. @nailitbyabi

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NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H

Get to know the names behind companies & brands that are attracting attention across the nail & beauty space Wisteria Professional Tools Ríofach Cannon attained her first nail qualification in 2008, but took a break from the industry before finding her feet again in June 2020. Her re-entry sparked an interest in nail tools and she launched Wisteria Professional Tools in November 2021. Named after the wisteria tree, which symbolises long life, Ríofach offers an affordable, precise and durable range of lash, brow and nail tools alongside aftercare products. Each product has been designed by Ríofach with support from her brand ambassadors. “I want my tools to encourage more than just excellent nail and beauty aesthetics,” she enthuses. “I support neat cuticles, beautiful hands and sharp brows so fellow pros can achieve perfection.” Ríofach also took material options into consideration for the tools, ultimately opting for a titanium coating for longevity and ease of cleaning. The entrepreneur is ambitiously planning to grow the brand across the UK and Ireland. “The nail industry has grown so much since I began my nail career,” she comments. “It is such an amazing community and I love when artists tag me in their creations. I am so appreciative of the support and long-term, I want to concentrate on expanding to mainland Europe. Once I’ve conquered Europe, I will focus on the USA!” www.wisteriaprofessional.co.uk

@wisteriaprofessionaltools

Nailcure Fashion stylist assistant, Naima Coleman, realised she wanted a career change following her pregnancy in 2011. She often watched the beauty teams work on set at fashion shoots, so decided to train as a nail professional and worked as a freelance session manicurist. After 10 years as a session tech, Naima wanted to address some of the issues she ran into on set. “It had always been an ambition of mine to bring out a session range because I saw a gap in the market for the essentials I needed in my kit to make my job easier,” she explains. “This is why Nailcure’s ethos is built on the premise of aiding nail related issues, not just for trained manicurists but for the client, too.” Nailcure’s Nipper Buddy launched in February 2022. Available in five shades, it is designed to protect nippers from blunting while being transported between clients and when stored. “It’s important to me that my brand has strong ethical values, which is why Nailcure is proudly vegan-friendly, cruelty-free and sustainably made,” Naima beams. “White is the most popular Nipper Buddy shade and represents everything Nailcure is – clean, simple and luxe to complement any tools a nd salon aesthetic.” Opening up about the challenges of running your own business, Naima explains that dividing her time between the brand’s online presence, content creation, orders, customer care and product development has kept her busy. “Seeing my idea being so well received has really made all the sleepless nights and emotions of being a new mum while starting a new business worthwhile. Nailcure is just getting started, and I am so excited for the future of my brand!” www.nail-cure.co.uk 82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@nail_cure__

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SO YOU WANT TO BE A

? h c e t n o i s s se

Whether it’s editorial shoots, ad campaigns or celebrity nail styling that piques your interest, CHLOE RANDALL finds out what it’s really like to work as a session nail tech For salon or mobile nail pros, joining the session world can seem like a glamorous, exciting and high profile industry path. From travelling and erratic hours to tending to the hands of models and securing jobs, session nail styling is a very different style of nail work. It may not be suited to everyone, but could be someone else’s dream come true. The glitz and glamour that appears to come with working backstage at fashion shows, on campaigns or at star-studded events is often very appealing to nail techs wanting to make the move from salon life, but what’s the first step? Scratch explores the role of an agent, how to get session work, the highs, the lows and everything in between…

Agent answers Scratch chats to Helen Lisle-Taylor, executive agent at international agency, Premier Hair & Makeup What do you look for in a nail pro to sign to your agency? We always meet artists a few times before we agree to represent them to ensure that the relationship between the agent and the artist is the right fit. In addition, skill, visuals and the right personality are important factors. What is the process for nail pros wanting to join the agency? Nail technicians usually join our agency through word of mouth, or they may have worked with one of our other artists. Our artists always need great assistants for fashion shows, so we might reach out to people that have been in contact with us or come highly recommended. How do you help nail pros find session work? What is the process? As agents, we help nail technicians build their portfolio, website and client list. We also send mailings and introduce them to PRs and relevant brands. Premier is a reputable agency, so if we recommend a nail artist to one of our regular clients, they trust us. What happens when a job for a session tech arises? Premier secures the job and will invoice on the nail pro’s behalf. We also manage a nail technician’s chart, collate details and rates for jobs and chase visuals, allowing the nail tech to get on with what they do best; nails! Techs interested in being considered should email examples of their work and CV to info@premierhairandmakeup.com www.premierhairandmakeup.com 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The session veteran Marian Newman BEM started working as a session nail pro in 1997 by accident, when a photographer needed a nail stylist to make some specific nails for a shoe advertising campaign. Marian uncovered an industry she didn’t know existed and just a few weeks later, she worked on her first Vogue cover with Kate Moss. Now retired from the session world to focus on other projects such as Nail Knowledge and the Federation of Nail Professionals, Marian reveals that the industry has changed a lot in the last 25 years. “There were very few session nail pros working in the early years and grooming teams tended to be surprised by someone being present just to do the nails,” she reveals. “Make-up artists or their assistants always carried polish remover and a few colours and many were delighted that they didn’t have to do that job.” For Marian, she believes her journey to becoming a session technician was all about being in the right place at the right time. After she entered the industry, more people started to make themselves available and hair and make-up agents started to include manicurists on their represented artists lists. “When manicurists became more recognised, fees went up. Unfortunately, many techs would offer to do the work for free, however my agents and I worked hard to get the fees up,” comments Marian. “This was mostly achieved by being thought of as indispensable and a good team player, who could ensure that anything with nails is possible. The answer was never ‘no’ and for many years, fees were exceptionally high but since the pandemic, they have gone down a bit. Now, there will be hardly any media work without a nail professional present. “To be successful, it is always best to get on an agent’s books as they should bring work in for the nail pro.” www.mariannewmannails.com

Images courtesy of Marie-Louise Coster

INDUSTRYMOVES

An insight into the role By Marie-Louise Coster, session nail technician “Within the salon setting, you make your appointments accordingly, allowing sufficient time to carry out the service the client has booked,” comments Marie-Louise Coster. “Backstage, whether on a shoot or at a show, time is a luxury you are very seldom afforded. The creative team needs to work together to ensure the model is ready in time, so you need to work quickly and accurately and cope well under pressure. “Pay is another challenge. Many jobs are unpaid, others pay a little and some pay very well. Payment is also invoiced, so whereas a client will pay you immediately so you constantly have a cash flow, session jobs are invoiced and you are paid 30 to 60 days later.

The role of a session stylist By Nickie Rhodes-Hill, Scratch Stars Session Stylist of the Year 2018 & 2019 “As a session manicurist, you need to adapt to whatever is presented to you on a shoot. Sometimes, there is only room for you to work around the hair and make-up teams as they work. However, ultimately each element is as important as the other and you just have to get the nails done. There are occasions when the shoot is just hands and still life and this is when you get the whole space to yourself with the model or models. “It was being at a Sweet Squared event in 2013 that I saw Liza Smith again after training with her and my session tech career started. She gave a talk about session work, which showed me a new creative path and I also met Marian Newman for the first time. From that event, I put myself forward for Fashion Week and was asked to be on Liza’s team for a few London Fashion Week shows in February 2014. From then, I was hooked. “Not long after, Liza asked me to assist her on a British Vogue photo shoot, which was the icing on the creative cake for me. Four months later, she asked me to cover a photo shoot that she couldn’t do and I ended up doing my first independent shoot for Vogue Germany in November 2014. This was my first Vogue front cover and after this I continued being part of the Liza Smith Runway Fashion Week team for a few more seasons and I started getting more independent photo shoots. “Initially, I didn’t have an agent. I was recommended for most of the work I got when I first started out. That in turn helped me to build my portfolio, which is an important part of being a session manicurist. I used to search for production companies, I sent emails directly to photographers and I got lots of recommendations. If you don’t have an agent, you need to be proactive. “I would advise any budding session techs to research session manicurists on Instagram, follow them and engage around the time of Fashion Week, which is a great way to dip your toes into one aspect of the industry. While the industry and Fashion Week is still recouping since 2020, it is an ideal time to start reaching out to get experience. “You can also approach agencies and offer to be an assistant. However, be mindful that unless a signed manicurist is booked for a job with lots of models, assisting can be hit and miss.” @nickierhodeshill

“To do nails on magazine shoots, advertising campaigns and shows was always the dream but I lacked confidence in my ability to be able to do this. After giving birth to my daughter, I decided that I had to at least try to break into the session world and prove to her, and myself, that you can achieve your dreams. I contacted manicurists and agencies about assisting and did every job I could. I learned a lot, both good and bad, but every experience was invaluable. I worked on editorial shoots, fashion shows and advertising campaigns and got as much experience as I could. “When I first started out, I contacted all agencies to see if I could be added to their assistant list in order to assist as many manicurists as I could and learn as much as I could. As time went on, if any of the agencies had surplus work, they would often suggest me for it and I started to build up my own portfolio of work. “I also tried to network with other creatives such as photographers, make-up artists and hair stylists to get on test shoots to further build my portfolio. This was hard work, and not easy by any means. “There are some very successful manicurists who are not signed to agents and have a constant stream of work, so having an agent isn’t essential, but most of these manicurists have been doing it for a very long time and have a large network of contacts and creatives that they have worked with many times before. “For me, living outside of London, having an agent works really well, and I have no doubt that I would not get the opportunities I do without her. Finding work, without an agent, is just much harder.” @mlcnailartist

INTRODUCING... the Session Work Academy Over the past two years, Nickie Rhodes-Hill has developed a course for nail professionals who wish to move into the session arena or add elements of session work to their salon or mobile business. In late 2021, Session Work Academy became a reality. The course: Nailing Session Work – The Creative Blueprint gives a nail professional an insight into this creative sector. From PR, marketing, kit and portfolio building to Fashion Week, photo shoots and working with celebrities, this course covers everything budding session techs need to know. The first run of the course went live at the beginning of April 2022 and lasts for 12 weeks with an extra 12 weeks’ mentorship while the students are portfolio building. There will be another course intake later in 2022. To join the waiting list for this intake, scan here SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 85

INDUSTRYEVENT

Culture

A CELEBRATION OF

Candy-Ellie Graham

Cultural Style Week is a movement to promote pride & expression – with exciting opportunities for fashion, hair & beauty service providers. Scratch finds out how you can get involved…

ech entrepreneur, Candy-Ellie Graham, has founded Cultural Style Week, a movement taking place 21-27 May to encourage people to boldly embrace their cultural heritage through fashion, hair and beauty.

In partnership with hair and beauty platform, StylzMag, Cultural Style Week opens with a fashion show and launch party in London to set the stage for a schedule of educational and inspiring events. The first day of the event coincides with the United Nations World Day for Cultural Diversity for Dialogue & Development, which recognises the important contributions that different cultures make to global development and harmony. The week-long celebration also aims to inspire a larger movement of people from all cultures to proudly share their cultural fashion, hair and beauty styles at work, school and on social media using the hashtag #culturalstyleweek. “The Western world is home to millions of diaspora and immigrants who often reserve their traditional style for cultural events,” says Candy-Ellie. “I wanted to start a movement by creating this inclusive event that encourages people to proudly embrace their cultural fashion, hair and beauty.

“Cultural Style As a precursor to the week, a ‘My Cultural Style’ Week will be video series has launched, featuring a diverse group of inspirational people from all walks of life a unique talking about the beauty of their cultural heritage and beautiful and why it is important to them. Jennifer Laurent-Smart, My Cultural Style participant experience and founder of Madras fashion brand, Sakafet London, for all.” comments: “I’m excited about the opportunity to be

“I also wanted to showcase some of the amazing fashion, hair and beauty service providers hidden in small communities who can help people do just that. “Through sharing and celebrating what makes us all unique, Cultural Style Week aims to encourage fresh dialogue around cultural acceptance and create opportunities for us all to better understand and celebrate each other.” The live Cultural Style Week events will include: • Fashion shows displaying traditional clothing and designs from around the world • Mini marketplace pop-ups to support small businesses and designers • Community-based workshops for interactive learning opportunities • Live masterclasses and interviews • Art collaborations 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

part of Cultural Style Week. It’s a wonderful opportunity to promote inclusion and belonging by showcasing the diversity and cultural heritage of people who make up Great Britain. “Diversity is the fabric that binds our communities together and it is often expressed in our traditional clothing. This initiative is about being proud of your heritage, celebrating diversity, and appreciating the best of each other’s culture.”

Get involved!

Cultural Style Week is an inclusive event that invites anyone across the globe to take part by proudly wearing their cultural styles across the week and sharing online with the hashtag #culturalstyleweek. www.culturalstyleweek.com /culturalstylewk @culturalstyleweek @culturalstylewk

@CulturalStyleWeek

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We can’t wait for you to join us on Sunday 22nd and Monday 23rd May at the Coventry Building Society Arena! Beauty UK will provide the ultimate trade exhibition experience, packed with inspiring demos and tutorials, and the chance to meet with like-minded professionals. You’ll find £1,000s of special offers from well-loved and upcoming brands. Plus, we’re excited to announce the launch of a dedicated make-up section, giving you the opportunity to meet leading exhibitors, and watch the latest techniques. Your £10 Entrance Ticket includes: TICKET OPTION 1

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INDUSTRYINITIATIVES

Giving back through business Want to do your bit for charity but not sure where to start? Scratch sources ideas & tips from nail businesses supporting charitable causes REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS As a nail business, your role is to make your clients look and feel good, and what could feel better than giving back to the community? Research by Deloitte Digital in 2020 found that almost half of UK consumers were more likely to spend money at a business that supports local charities – a trend that was expected to stay following the lifting of Covid-19 restrictions. While it would be ideal to carry out charity work on a regular basis, factors including busy schedules and questions about how much money it is viable to contribute can hold businesses back. That’s why we’ve gathered top tips from salon owners and brands on how to be charitable in the nail industry, with a range of ideas to suit every business.

The benefits of being charitable “When clients see a business supporting good causes, it reflects positively on the business and can attract clientele you may otherwise not have reached,” reveals Melanie Garlick of Cruelty Free Clawz, a Lincolnshire based mobile tech who has organised numerous nail-related charity initiatives. Melanie Garlick

“Many members of the public want to support charities, and offering a donation from the cost of a nail treatment is a unique way to do so,” she continues. “It’s a winwin for the client as they enjoy their service and nail style but feel good knowing that it is contributing to a charitable cause. “In the age of social media, there is also further opportunity for you to reach more clientele, boost your reputation and therefore turn a one-off client into a regular client by offering charity services.”

TOP TIP “If you’re looking to start a charitable project, first speak to your local authority and council and then don’t give up on your idea.” Jodie Ferrari

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BRAND SPOTLIGHT

Swedish developer and manufacturer of hypoallergenic professional nail products, IKON.IQ Nails, recognises the power it has to make change. With ties to Ukraine in the form of training thousands of Ukrainian nail techs, sponsoring and judging competitions in the country, and having friends, colleagues and customers suffering in the conflict, the company started donating 10% of all sales to Ukrainian charities in March. Customers can also receive a 10% discount on products using the code PEACEINUKRAINE. Shortly after, IKON.IQ began offering free nail starter kits, which include gels, gel polishes and essential nail tools, to refugee nail techs from Ukraine. “Most refugees left Ukraine in a state of confusion and shock, often only able to bring one suitcase or bag and having to leave their nail products and tools behind,” comments IKON.IQ Nails’ founder, Robert Giblett. “We want to provide them with the ability to help themselves and their children, offer services to other Russian/Ukrainian speakers, retain their skills, feel a sense of self-worth and receive kindness from the nail industry.” www.ikoniqnails.com /beikoniq @ikoniqnailsuk

INDUSTRYINITIATIVES

Nails for those in need

Looking for a way to do what you’re good at while raising money for a worthy cause? Techs tell us how they’ve been charitable through their nail work… When the Russia-Ukraine conflict heightened in February, Melanie Garlick, like so many across the world, felt helpless. Realising that as one person, she was limited in what she could donate financially, she came to the conclusion that what she could donate was time. “Through donating my time to offer press-on nails for Ukraine through my website, a greater donation could effectively be raised,” she explains to Scratch. “Nails are a tiny canvas that allow for self-expression. Many clients want to show who they are, what they support and how they feel through art, fashion and music. Nails, as a form of art, are an extension of that,” the tech continues. “Therefore, it’s important to provide choice to clients who want to make a statement, as we’ve seen with yellow and blue nails symbolising standing with Ukraine. Then you can offer these nails with a donation.”

Pricing pointers For Melanie’s Ukraine charity press-on nails, which she prices at £15, 100% of the nail cost is donated to UNICEF. “The way I approached the costing was to work out the amount of nails I could create from each bottle of gel polish, base and top coat and take the cost of the products from what I would have personally donated,” she explains. “If you keep the design simple with minimal products, quick to complete but eye-catching, this also increases the viability of 100% donations. For nail techs who are in a salon with greater overheads, it may be more viable to offer an add on-service, for example themed nail art where 100% of the nail art fee is donated. Alternatively, you could donate 100% of profit instead,” adds the mobile tech.

Sasha Trutneva, founder of the TRU nail art studio in Brighton, is another nail artist that has used her services to support those in Ukraine.

Sasha Trutneva

In the first week of the conflict, she donated 10% of the money made from every TRU appointment to charities supporting those suffering – an initiative that clients supported. She also shared a link to the donation website across TRU’s Instagram page. “We are a small independent business and decided on the percentage to donate based on what is not too damaging for the business. I knew we had to give money because the country is struggling, as it is a much smaller country than Russia and they have a smaller army and fewer resources,” she tells Scratch. “I am Russian and I don’t support the actions of the Russian government, and I also have a lot of friends and relatives in Ukraine so I care about the country deeply,” she reveals. @trunail.art /trunail.art

Melanie launched the Cruelty Free Clawz Scholarship in March, which offers support to up-and-coming UK drag artists. With applications now closed, the tech will select three winners who will receive support in the form of custom-designed press-on nails and media promotion. “As a business whose primary clientele has become drag artists, it was important for me to assist. I could donate to charities, but it would not help the specific problems that I have heard about from my clients. Through creating my own initiative, I can directly support artists to address some of the issues they face,” Melanie comments. Scan here to find out more

TOP TIP “When setting up a charity initiative, you need to plan. Don’t rush into it – think about what problem the initiative addresses, what could go wrong, what type of help you need and who you will approach for that help.” Melanie Garlick

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INDUSTRYINITIATIVES Education for a good cause

Jodie Ferrari, managing director of the Jodie Ferrari Makeup Academy, shares an insight into her project, Educate To Elevate, designed to bring women not in education or employment into enterprise.

Instagram.com/jodieferrarimakeupacademy

“Educate To Elevate aims to educate women in areas of the beauty industry to provide them with the skillset to go on to employment, self-employment or further training,” Jodie tells Scratch. Launching for the second time last month, the project partners with charity, Keeping Our Girls Safe (KOGS), which works with young people to teach them about unhealthy relationships, child sexual exploitation and grooming, and inspire them to make positive life choices. “The free project is aimed at women aged 18+ in and around Manchester and aims to enhance their confidence, selfesteem, interview skills, personal presentation and employability techniques, as well as help them to create their own CVs and improve their use of social media,” Jodie continues. “Not every person fits into an academic bracket, and we want to bridge the gap for women who slipped through the net of education and employment. As an all-female team, empowering women is so important – just seeing a woman’s confidence and self-esteem boost after achieving something is so rewarding. Knowing that we have helped shape the rest of their lives, allowed them to provide for their families or just improved their mental health has to be the most uplifting part of the project.” The team at Jodie Ferrari Makeup Academy trains 12 women in either hair, nails or make-up, and holds social media and employability workshops. Self-esteem and counselling meetings are provided by KOGS. Once the women complete their training, a celebration evening is hosted and participants receive an accredited certificate and membership from The Guild of Beauty Therapists, two months insurance and either a hair, nails or make-up kit to get them started in their career. Educate To Elevate’s funders set a target for the previous project, which was exceeded with almost 75% of participants going on to self-employment, employment or further training. “We encourage other salons and academies to do something like Educate To Elevate, even if it isn’t on this scale,” says Jodie. “Women in business should be supporting and empowering one another. We can do great things when we all come together – Educate To Elevate is an example of that.” www.jodieferrarimakeupacademy.com/projects

BE OCTO

DATE FOR THE DIARY

Nail Breast Cancer is a month-long campaign that raises money for Future Dreams, a charity that supports those affected by breast cancer through initiatives involving nail brands, salons and techs. Taking place every October in line with Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Nail Breast Cancer was the concept of Louella Belle founder, Lisa Crook, with support from Re:New Beauty founder, René Lipsitz, and Susan Gerrard, founder of Gerrard International. Lisa and René passed away in 2017 and 2015 respectively after both being diagnosed with breast cancer. “When Nail Breast Cancer was first founded by my mum, Lisa Crook, in collaboration with René Lipsitz and Susan Gerrard, they set out to encourage nails to be painted pink throughout October, with nail techs and clients donating money to Future Dreams,” comments Jamie Crook, joint CEO of Louella Belle.

Jamie Crook

“Over the years, salons and clients have been supporting Nail Breast Cancer in various ways, with lot of opportunity to get involved. Fundraising ideas have included salon nail art competitions, coffee mornings, fashion shows, bake offs and raffles. All proceeds can be donated in three ways, via cash directly into the official money box, text or online.”

Participants of the Educate To Elevate scheme at their celebration evening.

92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

www.futuredreams.org.uk. /futuredreamscharity /LouellaBelle

@futuredreamscharity

@louellabelle

INDUSTRYINITIATIVES

Did you know? When you buy a Scratch subscription through our website, we offer the opportunity to donate to the Hair & Beauty Charity, which is solely dedicated to helping hair and beauty professionals in need. Scan here

TOP TIP A crucial aspect of establishing and marketing charity initiatives is holding yourself accountable, ensuring that those following your work can be certain that donations are going to the cause you say they are. “An easy way to do this is by choosing a registered charity with a listed cause on Instagram. Followers can then directly donate through the app and the amount of money raised is visible.” Melanie Garlick

Engaging events Scratch chats to Becki Hobbs of Becki’s Beauty about organising a charity event, after she and her colleague, Jodie Brown, pulled off a 24-hour charity nail challenge. In March, Maidenhead techs, Becki and Jodie, took on the challenging task of each creating a gel manicure for 24 clients within a 24-hour window, in aid of local hospice, Thames Hospice. The event, Nails Around The Clock, was quickly booked by clients eager to support, and over £2000 was raised through the event itself and donations in the salon and via JustGiving. Jodie Brown & Becki Hobbs

“The first steps of setting up a charity event are choosing a charity that is close to your heart, then deciding whether you’d like to raise money for the charity or collect items for them,” says Becki. “It’s much easier to engage with your clients about a charity that means something to you, therefore we chose our local hospice, which many of our clients, friends and family have had to use.” Once you’ve decided what you’d like to do for your event, Becki advises getting into contact with your chosen charity as they will

be happy to help with marketing packs and discuss the best ways to collect donations. “It’s so vital, not only as a nail tech but also as a business owner, to use your platform to its full potential to raise money for important causes. As an industry we have such an influence over others, so why not use the exposure to support charities?” adds Becki.

TOP TIP If you don’t feel like you can personally donate much time to help a charity, consider collecting monetary contributions via a donation box in your salon. Or why not become a Beauty Banker? Beauty Banks is a non-profit organisation that distributes unused hygiene and personal care items to charities supporting those in poverty. By becoming a Beauty Banker, your salon can be a dedicated donation point. Sign up here SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 93

PRODIY

Spirited

Styling Embrace the happy, carefree vibes of summer with the Free Spirit collection from Gellux & a fun, colourful nail style to boot

reated in collaboration with nail artist and Gellux expert, JulieAnne Larivière, the Salon System Gellux Free Spirit collection pulls together childhood memories and creative prowess across eight shades.

Designed to ignite happiness, Julie-Anne was inspired by the rainbow when creating the collection. “I wanted a range of shades that were bright, varied, colourful and fun,” she reveals. “My biggest inspiration for this collection was my home country, Canada. While I was briefed to explore a free spirited theme, each shade has been subtly named after things that remind me of where I come from. “You have to be free spirited to leave everything behind and move to another country and start a new life. When I moved to the UK, I marched to the beat of my own drum and chased my dream to become a successful nail tech. The name of this collection is my reminder of all that I have achieved. It’s full of happy colours and brings great memories of Canada.” Julie-Anne has been working with Salon System for almost a decade, and this collection marks the brand’s second colour collaboration with a nail technician, following the launch of the Without Limits collection in 2021 in partnership with Karen Louise.

STEP-BY-STEP: COLOURFUL MOUNTS Step 1 Prep nails and wipe with Gellux Nail+File Spray. Apply Gellux Fast Bond and allow to dry for 30 seconds. Apply base coat and a cover gel polish shade or Gellux Builder Gel if required, curing for 60 seconds between each coat (LED). Step 2 Using a liner brush dipped in Gellux Glorious & Free, paint random blocks of the shade at the tip of the nails. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 3 Repeat Step 2 using Gellux shade Be-A-Maize-ing, curing for 30 seconds between each coat. Step 4 Repeat with Gellux shade Joie De Vivre and cure, followed by Free Spirit. Cure. Step 5 Apply Gellux Matte Base/Top and cure for 60 seconds. Wipe nails with Gellux Prep+Wipe and apply cuticle oil to finish.

“Julie-Anne has worked closely with us for many years on both creative shoots and social media content,” comments Kathy Holroyd, Salon System marketing director. “This was an ideal opportunity for us to take the relationship to the next level. We adore the vision and energy she’s created with the Free Spirit collection.” The collaboration saw the talented nail artist work alongside the Salon System team for almost 18 months. “The collection is nothing like it was at the beginning of the process,” Julie-Anne reveals. “Colour samples vary and choosing the names was a challenge, but I have carefully picked eight shades that I believe both clients and techs will love for spring/summer 2022.”

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Each shade in the Salon System Gellux Free Spirit collection is £11.95 + VAT and available via wholesalers nationwide. /salonsystem @salonsystem

DIP

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Tips

Easy to apply with a quick drying time and no need for a light cure, the NexGen and ProGenX dip powder systems, available from Go Pretty, provide the strength of L&P acrylic with the appearance and flexibility of gel. Dip powders can be used over the natural nail or a tip and can be infilled, reducing the need to soak off at every appointment. This system is also suited to clients with oily nail plates, who may struggle with lifting.

Sharon Shaw

NexGen and ProGenX deliver natural looking, beautiful enhancements that are light, flexible and durable. However, like all nail treatments, the system must be applied correctly to achieve optimum results. Sharon Shaw, marketing development manager at Go Pretty, shares issues and how to avoid them…

1 Poor nail prep

To ensure good product adhesion, remove any particles of dirt and grime from the client’s nails with cleanser and lint-free wipes and dehydrate the nail plate to remove its natural oils. Apply the Prep Liquid (No. 1).

Heating up

A common mistake when using a dip system is holding the Pro Base (No. 2) and Finish Gel (No. 4) liquids in the palm of the hand when applying them. This heats up the product, making it sticky and increasing its set time. This makes it harder to move over the nail plate and gives less time for the powder to adhere. Avoid this by standing the bottles on a solid surface while you work.

Applying too much product

Many dip powders are designed to set quickly with the Pro Base (No. 2) and Finish Gel (No. 4) but if you apply too much, it can cause excess powder to stick onto the nail surface resulting in clumps and a messy, uneven surface. Apply thin, even layers instead.

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4Storage

Keep product bottles and brushes clean and store them correctly. For the liquids, Pro Base (No. 2) and Finish Gel (No. 4) both contain adhesive. Store them upright in a cool, dry place away from heat and direct light. Brush off excess dip powder between coats and clean brushes with Brush Softener (No. 5), otherwise dip powder can get stuck to the Pro Base or Finish Gel brush bristles, making them clumpy. For the powders, make sure the lids are on tightly and shake before use to ensure an even colour application as the powders contain a mixture of pigments that can settle.

5 Hygiene

To ensure no cross-contamination from external sources, always wash your hands before the service and ask the same of your clients. I wear a new set of gloves for each appointment and I thoroughly inspect my client’s hands and nails for any sign of infection or wounds. I then sanitise my client’s hands. I use a fresh sanding band on my e-file for every client and sanitise all equipment between each client, too.

EDUCATION

Go Pretty offers accredited face-to-face and online courses, in addition to bespoke conversion courses for those already qualified in similar techniques. To find out more about training with Go Pretty or to become an official training partner, contact sharon@gopretty.co.uk NexGen and ProGenX products are available via www.gopretty.co.uk /goprettybeauty @goprettybeauty

Instagram.com/p.l.s.lashes.and.nails

Love the speed & strength of the dip system? Go Pretty’s SHARON SHAW shares 5 points to note for a perfect nail finish

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TEKKINGTOOLS

How to take care of your

s l o o t

They’re the most essential items in your kit bag, so refresh your knowledge on storing, cleaning & maintaining tools with a helping hand from CALLIE ILEY

On your very first step into the nail field, you would have been taught the importance of great nail prep. Not just a vital part of nailcare, proper preparation is key to ensure the longevity of a nail service – so your tools need to be kept in peak condition. Scissors, nippers, cuticle pushers and other such nail tools will last longer and keep a sharp edge if you take the appropriate level of care, but by nature of repetitive use, tools will blunt over time. “With all tools, the general rule should be that if you can feel a loss of efficacy or you’re having to change your technique, then it’s time to replace the tool,” comments Paulina Zdrada, founder of The Nail Lab UK. “Items like diamond bits naturally degrade through use and the shelf life depends on how regularly you use them. “If you drop or compromise the quality of your tool in any way, such as bending the blade after being dropped, you should replace that tool immediately rather than risk any damage to your client’s nail or cuticle.” Alternatively, contact the tool manufacturer for guidance or assessment if you are unsure about the condition of your tool. “Sharp tools are safer and more efficient to use than blunt ones,” comments Katie Barnes, founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range. “When a tool is blunt or thick, additional force is required to achieve the same results. This adds unnecessary stress to a tech’s hands and can cause damage to the client’s nails and surrounding skin.” Each nail pro will choose a preferred brand or tool range in their kit, but the essentials for tool care are constant. 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

At the nail desk

Be mindful (and careful) where you put your tools down during each client’s service. Consider a tool rest as an attractive and useful addition to the nail desk. The tips and sharp edges of tools can damage easily if care is not taken. Once bent or the blades become damaged, these are often irreparable, making them dangerous to use.

The Nail Lab ambassador, Lindsey Cunningham, stores her tools on a handy tray during a client’s service.

The Nail Buddy £9.99 inc VAT www.thenailbuddy.co.uk Available in a variety of patterns and shades, The Nail Buddy holds product bottles and manicure tools securely while you work.

TOP TIP

Dropping your tools could misalign the blade, tip, pivot or handle, so contact the manufacturer to assess for damage and keep protective caps on when possible.

Five-Piece Tool Rest Set £49.95 inc VAT www.paintednposted.com

TEKKINGTOOLS

Storage Keep your tools in their protective box; a case or holder, when not in use. “Never store scissors together or touching – each must go in their own compartment,” recommends Katie Barnes. “Tips and blades should be carefully protected from damage using the protective plastic cap provided by your supplier. Never store them downwards or with tips or sharp edges resting on surfaces.”

“Take care of your tools and they will take care of you.”

Roo Beauty Bitzee Bag in Imperial Purple £34.99 inc VAT www.roobeauty.com

Light Elegance Brush Case £12.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

“My tools are all kept flat in a drawer until I use them so I don’t blunt them,” shares Claire Blincoe, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “Once used, they go into a tray to be washed and disinfected at the end of the day.”

Split by PersoNAILity £49.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk / www.personaility.co.uk The handy, space-saving Split features five interchangeable heads that can be screwed into the handle as needed. Made from medical grade stainless steel, it’s designed for both right and left-handed techs.

Store your tools in a dry place when they are not being used and thoroughly dry them after sanitising, disinfecting or sterilising to prevent rusting or discolouration.

GET SHARP! Nailcure Nipper Buddy £16 inc VAT www.nail-cure.co.uk Available in five shades, the Nipper Buddy is designed to protect nippers from blunting when stored and being transported between clients.

Magpie Beauty Storage Box £4.20 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Halo Drill Bit Storage Box £3.50 + VAT www.purenails.co

“New tools are an investment so it’s important you don’t cause them to deteriorate unnecessarily,” Lindsey Cunningham comments. “Make sure your tools are stored correctly and sharp parts are not touching each other. Failure to prevent this can cause scratching and blunting of tools.”

Katie Barnes Tool Range offers the Reuse & Resharpen Sharpening Service to keep your nail tools performing at their best – no matter what brand you use. “There’s no such thing as a scissor or tool with sharp edges that will never need to be sharpened – regardless of quality, cost or guarantees,” comments Katie. “All scissors must be sharpened when they get damaged, dull or are nicked. “We commission a local expert who offers a professional tool sharpening service to give a new lease of life to your nail tools. When there is damage, we will do what we can to bring back the sharp edge but if the damage is significant then the tool may be beyond repair and it will be necessary to purchase another.” The service starts at £13.99 for one tool. Visit www.katiebarnesacademy.com to purchase the service. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 99

TEKKINGTOOLS

Cleaning All tools that can be cleaned and reused must be sterilised/disinfected (strictly following the manufacturer’s instructions) using products that are tested to approved standards. Store your tools in a clean, dry environment until they are needed for use.

Mundo File & Tool Disinfectant Spray £6.50 inc VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk Cosmeticide Spray £4.90 + VAT www.purenails.co

“When cleaning tools, you should stick to the manufacturer’s advice on mixing disinfectant solution and don’t submerge tools for too long as they could corrode,” says Paulina Zdrada. “Education is one of the best resources at your disposal so before investing in tools, ensure you fully understand which tools to use and when.”

Mundo Power Plus Ultra Instrument & Tool Disinfectant £6.95 inc VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk

“Purchasing single-use, disposable equipment, such as nail files, will also help reduce the risk of crosscontamination, as well as investing in more sterilising equipment,” according to industry body, BABTAC. “If purchasing an autoclave, ensure it reaches the correct temperature to kill all viruses and bacteria.” Autoclaves should be properly maintained according to manufacturer directions and spore tested once a month to ensure they are functioning properly.

Mundo Disinfection Tray £12.95 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk

Salon System Nail+File Cleansing Spray £8.25 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

A spokesperson at BABTAC continues: “Non-disposables must always be thoroughly cleaned, then sterilised after each client, ensuring contact for immersion is correct and sterilisation used is a suitable method.” If you are using a jar to hold your tools while cleaning, you must protect the blade tips by placing cushioning, such as cotton wool, in the bottom of the jar. “Glass bead sterilisers are not useful for salons,” adds industry scientist, Doug Schoon. “Experts in salon disinfection recommend full immersion of a pre-cleaned implement in a hospital level disinfectant, otherwise the device is still a potential risk for transmission of infectious organisms.” Brush handles should be disinfected between clients and the outside of all containers should always be kept clean. UV gel brushes should be cleaned with IPA, while L&P brushes require liquid monomer and IPA for their handles.

TOP TIP

LP Hygiene Routine Kit £16 inc VAT www.lpnails.com Navy Hygiene Starter Kit £14.99 + VAT www.navyprofessional.com

Don’t share your scissors, brushes or tools as even a slight change in the way another tech holds or uses them can cause damage or make them feel uncomfortable for your use.

TECH TALK

“I clean my tools between clients by washing them in warm soapy water before rinsing them thoroughly,” explains Michaela Phillips, ambassador for The Nail Lab UK. “After I’ve prepared my disinfectant box, I submerge my tools in the solution, then remove them after the recommended time. “Rinse and dry each tool individually. If you leave your tools on a towel straight from the disinfectant, the solution may still be on the tools and cause rusting and corrosion, so it’s really important to dry them properly.”

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LP Wire Cleaning Brush £4.50 inc VAT www.lpnails.com

LP Cleaning Pot (drill bits not included) £5.50 inc VAT www.lpnails.com

Katie Barnes Form Tailoring Scissors £26.99 + VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

TOP TIP

“Use the correct tools for their intended purpose as recommended by the company,” comments Katie Barnes. “Use different pairs of scissors for form tailoring and cuticle work as cutting paper will blunt the blades. If you use your tools not for their intended purpose, you can shorten their life and may cause damage.”

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

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...

CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media sites & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

Instagram.co

Lights… Camera... Action!

Instagram.co

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lab

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Here at Scratch, pink is our signature colour and we’re head over heels for these pretty pink seasonal nail styles.

Insta

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The GelBottle Inc Jane’s Jewels £16.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

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American model, Bella Hadid, took to Instagram to show off behind-the-scenes snaps from a photo shoot for Vogue US. She showcased three different nail looks created by @nailsbymei, @sylviemacmillan.nails and @nataliepnails.

A REGENCY AFFAIR

Bridgerton star, Polly Walker, aptly sported the Bridgerton-inspired The GelBottle Inc shade, Jane’s Jewels, for the premiere of the series, applied by TGB brand ambassador, @imarninails.

Little Mix star, Jade Thirwall, received a colourful, kaleidoscopic nail style from Stephanie Staunton (aka @stephie_nails) for the start of the band’s tour.

Instagram

.com/who

didtheirn

ails

SCRATCHMEDIA

LET’S GO TO THE OSCARS! There was much to talk about following this year’s Oscars ceremony, but we kept our eyes on the nail styles of celebrity attendees. Here are some of our favourite looks…

Instagram

Anna Taylor-Joy sported a delicate lace nail look courtesy of Kim Truong.

kimnails

Session nail stylist, Lucy Tucker, appeared on ITV’s This Morning to serve up a lesson in Easter nail artistry to viewers and hosts, Dermot O’Leary and Alison Hammond.

Instagram.co

m/sacciadidt

Nail arti st, Jenn y Lon gwo rth (aka @je nnyn ails ), pain ted Har ry Styl es’ nail s in a scar let hue for his ‘As It Was ’ mus ic vide o. Acc ordi ng to Love The Sale s, the term ‘me n’s nail poli sh’ has seen a 61% incr ease in sear ches sinc e the vide o was rele ased .

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Singer, Jesy Nelson, was seen rocking a classic French courtesy of @bhambnails, created using TGB’s Diana and Daisy.

hat

Instagra

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hambna

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St yle s’ sty lin g…

Tom Bachik created a gorgeous deep red manicure for Rachel Zegler‘s first Oscars.

achik

Gorgeous for the Grammys

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m.com

/tomb

@sacciadidthat used OPI’s Quest for Quartz to ensure Doja Cat’s talons were Grammy ready.

Tom Bachik tended to the nails of Nicola Peltz for her wedding to Brooklyn Beckham, creating a custom blend ‘90s Supermodel American Mani’ for the big day. Bachik attended the nuptials alongside daughter, Zoie.

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rprintsand

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TIME TO PLAY

Dr Prints and Company has launched Manicure Roulette, a card game designed to mix things up in the nail salon and have the cards determine your client’s nail fate. Available via www.drprints.co.uk

Zola Ganzorigt used OPI’s Mauvnetic Poles to create Hailey Bieber‘s nail look.

OPI GelColor in Mauvnetic Poles £17.80 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 105

NAILDESIGNS

Spring-friendly pastels make for a pretty design courtesy of @by__shakira, who adds a bee alongside hand-painted flowers.

Stamping designs serve up a treat for a garden lover, as shown by Mexican nail artist, @marianaef.nails.

What wildlife does your garden attract? @hollymarie_123 depicts her findings via 3D sculptures across nails.

Fingernails in

Focus

Has your client got green fingers? Feed their passion for gardening with a themed nail design & watch their fascination grow…

Who’s a sucker for succulents? Alison Nicole from Bees, ladybirds and butterflies can all be found on Shades of a spring garden are showcased in this California is! The talented tech (aka @annailsco) these garden themed nails by @beautybylilylou, abstract design by @thenailoungewalkergate showcased this hyper-realistic design on Instagram. using The GelBottle Inc shades. created using Magpie Beauty products.

Mobile nailist, @naileditnailsbysteph, paints the tools required for a great gardening job using Home Of Nail Art products.

What does your garden grow? Colourful flowers can be seen attracting butterflies in this design by @nailxlily.

Belgian tech, @nailetje, draws inspiration from a @simplynailogical style to create colourful 3D succulent nails.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 106 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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