Scratch Magazine May 2021 by scratchmagazine

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

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Issue 217 Editor-in-chief Alex Fox alex.fox@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Kat Hill kat.hill@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jesswilkie17@yahoo.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327

tion? a sigh of exhaus sigh of relief? Or a auty at th be Is the e. of th nd…brea reopening c to celebrate the eing sti se nta ed fa lov en ve be ha s u It ha eks. I’m sure yo we few st ase pa ple t the bu industry over ed seeing you, – and they’ve lov the o ain int ag ll ts fa en n’t cli do your r one, and ke care of numbe mand. de t ee m to t remember to ta jus ks, barely any brea 12-hour days with habit of working fits cus on the bene 6 May, with a fo -1 10 is ek ps We ste s arenes to see what Mental Health Aw Turn to page 28 rsonal wellbeing. pe r ou and read up on r ul, fo so e tur the of na ch ind and nurture m the lm ca to e struggling. In su you can take or your clients ar u yo if lp he ay to m u tiatives ay – and yo some industry ini urself can run aw from ustry, time for yo ind d try to step back ce e pa as stple fa t a a little a certain way, bu d rm an rfo air pe sh to fre re of feel pressu world for a spot the other d into the outside ve come through ha the nail desk an u Yo ts. en m int po lly, so take ap na n sio ee es tw of perspective be rsonally and pr pe th bo ar ye d edente achieved. side of an unprec pute all you have eathe and com br to t en om m a as it’s Sc ra tc h’s re as on th is Ma y, nd co se a r fo try , wi th its g ra tin is am az ing ind us We ’re als o ce leb s im m er se d in th ar party in ye n’t 18 ca ’s at we Th ile 18 th bir th da y! innovations. Wh le dib re nail inc d nals an mmending the inspiring professio you’ll join us in co pe ho on ’ll we on nd th, mon rty in Lo full fashion this Scratch Stars Pa hievements at the viewing this ’re We r. the fur sector and its ac d se strictions are ea re a year for the en er wh ov 21 in 20 25 July the first chance bly ssi po as n d dance, chat, sio er a screen – an anticipated occa ov t no – n rld. rso pe gether in wonderful nail wo industry to get to resilience of this the te ra leb ce d ils an indulge in cockta

ke ts to joi n us ? Wa nt to bu y tic ntbrite.co.uk tarsparty2021.eve Visit www.scratchs or sc an he re All the best,

Contributors Donna Clayton, Caroline Rainsford, Chan Vermont, Dave Heffernan, Maddie Regan, Caroline Larissey, Liza Smith, Ria-Jaine Lincoln, Nailholic

Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer Warners Midlands PLC Printers Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Images courtesy of The Gel Bottle Inc Shades shown are from The Gel Bottle Inc’s 90’s Baby spring/ summer 2021 gel polish collection. Available via www.thegelbottle.com

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

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COVER CREDITS

Model: Khanh Linh @klinhnd Stylist: Chi Lemon @lem0n Make-up artist: Quí Đoàn @quydoan3105 Hair stylist: Thượng Gia Kỳ @thuong_gia_ky Nail artist: Quinada @quinadanailart Photographer: Trí Nghĩa @tringhia_nemotion Client: Chanel Vietnam @chanelofficial

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Contents MAY 2021

FEATURES 24 Pearly Queen

Dive into the nail tales behind this month’s front cover imagery, courtesy of a Chanel lipstick campaign in Vietnam

28 Nature & Nurture

Scratch recognises Mental Health Awareness Week 10-16 May with a focus on nature’s benefits & industry initiatives

38 French Form & Finish

Clean up common issues with the classic French mani with tips for creating the perfect pink & white finish

46 A Nail Tech’s Guide To TikTok

Get to grips with the social media app that is elevating content creation across the nail sector

68 Wearing The Crown

Check out nail competition news, creations & champions in a roundup of the industry’s biggest events

72 Scratch Stars Awards: Meet The Judges

Discover the esteemed judging panel of industry experts who will evaluate & judge the Scratch Stars 20/21 finalists

80 Focus On: Files & Buffers

What makes a great file? Explore the ergonomics of this nail tekking essential & know when to get rid

86 Korean Flavour At Your Fingertips Take a visual journey to South Korea & try an array of nail designs inspired by traditional dress

REGULARS

12 20 34 36 48 50 58 60 62 66 78 84 88 90 92 94 98

Nail Nation The Hot List The Cosmetic Climate Nailscopes The Business Of Beauty Readers Gallery The Clawgasmic Effect International Nail Spy Brand Watch The Force Of The Feds Getting Down To Business Grow & Glow With Maddie Beauty In Numbers Through The Keyhole Nail Clippings Mindful Matters Fingernails in Focus

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Nail NATION

business

news & views By Team Scratch

Beauty Backed support scheme secures Trust status CEW champions Eve Appeal Get Lippy campaign Industry organisation, Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), is the lead partner for gynaecological cancer charity, The Eve Appeal’s 2021 Get Lippy campaign throughout May. The annual campaign aims to raise awareness of and breaks down the taboos around gynaecological cancers. CEW is encouraging the British beauty industry to get behind the campaign and demonstrate a commitment to women’s health. This national consumer-facing campaign encourages a range of beauty brands to donate 10% from participating products sold in May to support the Get Lippy initiative. The donations will focus on helping fund research into the prevention and earlier diagnosis of the five gynae cancers (womb, ovarian, cervical, vulval and vaginal), awareness-raising of their symptoms, and fund the nurse-led service, Ask Eve. Throughout May, a series of activations and virtual events will inspire women and men across the UK to speak openly about gynaecological health, and help raise the much-needed funds for ongoing research and support. For more information, visit www.cewuk.co.uk

Beauty bookings spike 432% after salon reopening date announced Beauty bookings service, Treatwell, reported a 432% spike in bookings within 24 hours after it was announced that salons in England and Wales could reopen on 12 April. The data by Treatwell revealed that hair appointments represent 47% of bookings, specifically haircuts, followed by hair colour appointments, with there being an increase in balayage colouring requests. Face treatments and hair removal took up 18% each of the postlockdown bookings while nail treatments, in particular two-week manicures, accounted for 9% of bookings. Massages took up 8%, signalling a rise in attention to self-care. www.treatwell.co.uk 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The Beauty Backed initiative, launched in August 2020 by skincare expert, Caroline Hirons, to raise funds for and support the beauty sector, is now a Trust. A statement via BeautyBacked.com reads: “Over the last year, we have witnessed much of our industry struggle to stay open and viable. As a sector representing an 88% female workforce, with 82% of business owners as women, we need to stand together and make a change. “We see ourselves in our colleagues and as past and present beauty business owners, we understand the hardships Covid-19 has created alongside the repeated delays in re-opening our sector and lack of individual sectoral funding support.” The Beauty Backed Trustees are Caroline Hirons, Alexandra Forbes, Dija Ayodele, BABTAC’s Lesley Blair and Lisa Potter Dixon. For information or support, contact Lucy via help@beautybacked.com

CND™ ANNOUNCES EDUCATION MANAGER FOR EMEA REGIONS

Nataliya Al-Ta’ai has been promoted to CND™ education manager for Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Nataliya was previously part of Global Team CND™, holding the title of education ambassador for the UK for a decade. In her new role, Nataliya will maintain global education standards and consistency for CND™ education programmes, training and events in support of CND™ distributors and education in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. She will continue to contribute knowledge and industry expertise to support CND™’s vision for future innovation and education. www.sweetsquared.com / www.cnd.com

GIVEAWAY!

RefectoCil is offering three Scratch readers the chance to each win a Creative Colours Starter Kit for eyelash and eyebrow tinting – worth £62. It features shades of light brown, graphite, pure black, red, deep blue and RefectoCil Blonde Brow, the bleaching paste for eyebrows. All accessories are included. To be in with a chance to win, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/competitions

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business

Nail NATION Footcare expert launches Sole Potential charity to support young people COVID-19 PANDEMIC COST HAIR & BEAUTY PROS ‘OVER £11,000’ A report by Simply Business has found that since the beginning of the pandemic, hair and beauty professionals have lost £11,603 on average in earnings. Despite the hair & beauty industry reopening again, it has been anticipated that losses will continue for some time and will eventually cost each pro £12,801 in total. In total, 9% of hair and beauty professionals have permanently shut down their business, with only 26% of businesses eligible for furlough. The research also revealed that over 99% of hair and beauty professionals expect their business to survive past 2021 and there are just as many hair and beauty professionals planning to start a new business as there are who said they’ve permanently ceased trading. While the pandemic has been difficult for small business owners, hair and beauty professionals revealed how they’ve spent their time during lockdown: • 62% spent more time with family where possible • 35% used the time to focus on themselves • 34% rested • 20% used the time to learn new skills www.simplybusiness.co.uk

SalonServe brand unveils shake-up Claire Kettell, owner of SalonServe hair and beauty supplies, has used lockdown to transform the brand, which was established in 1994. Its clean, stylish website showcases over 4,000 products, from salon furniture to PPE, hygiene products, nail brands, gifts and beauty essentials. A monthly newsletter, ‘Catch Up With SalonServe’ serves to complement the products, and will feature special offers, articles and details of free gifts. “It’s been a tough year and this is the perfect way to reconnect with our lovely customers,” Claire comments. “We are so happy to offer this new way to keep everybody up-to-date with brand new products, as well as the classic favourites.” www.salonserve.com 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Margaret Dabbs, CEO & founder of Margaret Dabbs London™, has launched Sole Potential, a UK charity that serves to provide underprivileged young people with new sports footwear. The charity hopes to give young people the opportunity to participate in sport regardless of their start in life, supporting the development of their social, physical and emotional health. Dabbs decided during the lockdown period to start the charity and aims to build its recognition on a national level, utilising her commercial skills and industry contacts. Sole Potential will also be leveraging the support of high-profile brand ambassadors and sports, as well as that of its founder, to drive awareness and support for the charity. It will work closely with schools, local authorities, local sports teams and other charitable trusts to identify those most in need of its support. www.solepotential.org

Almost 500 new hair & beauty businesses created by Britons on furlough According to new research by The Accountancy Partnership, 496 new hairdressing and beauty treatment businesses were created by Britons on furlough, while the number of registrations by those made redundant increased by a third from last year to create more than 1,100 new companies. It was also revealed that 14% of new hair and beauty business registrations – around 990 enterprises – were the result of a need for an extra source of income. While unemployment and money struggles played a significant part in this surge of business registrations, almost half (46%) of entrepreneurs who started businesses during the pandemic said they’d always wanted to be self-employed or own a business. The research shows that an ever-growing interest in sidehustles has also contributed to the new business boom, with more than a fifth (21%) of pandemic-born hair and beauty treatment businesses starting their life in this way. This 40% increase from 2019 is likely a result of people having more time on their hands due to lockdown restrictions, isolation and furlough, with enterprising Britons using their free time to monetise a skill or hobby. www.theaccountancy.co.uk

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Nail NATION The Gel Bottle Inc launches 10 90s-inspired gel polish colours

Scratch Stars Party tickets now on sale! Grab your friends, colleagues & fellow nailists for the Scratch Stars Party 20/21 – the best night in the nail industry calendar! After a year without networking & seeing your nail ‘fam, join Scratch and your fellow nailists on Sunday 25 July 2021, presenting an evening full of fun, entertainment and fabulous-ness! Indulge in cocktails and canapés while dressed in your best party wear and dance the night away in Proud, one of London’s coolest club venues. The event will reveal the long-awaited winners of the Scratch Stars Awards 20/21. Limited tickets available. To purchase, visit www.scratchstarsparty2021.eventbrite.co.uk or scan

JENNY BUI APPOINTED OPI ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR

Rewind and be inspired by an iconic era as The Gel Bottle Inc has launched the 90’s Baby collection for spring/summer 21. Featuring 10 new punchy gel polish hues, each shade name is a reference to a top trend of the time or a popular 90’s culture moment. To mark the launch, the TGB team has released a tongue-in-cheek, 90’s-style sitcom that features the feel-good shades within the collection. Shades are named with references from the iconic decade, with hues including Central Perk, Double Denim and Hubba Bubba. The Gel Bottle Inc gel polish system is highly pigmented for easy coverage and boasts up to four weeks’ wear time. The soak-off formula is non-shrink and non-yellowing and is both LED and UV curable. www.thegelbottle.com

International nailcare brand, OPI, has appointed celebrity manicurist, Jenny Bui, as its artistic ambassador. In this role, Jenny will work with OPI’s education, digital, social and influencer marketing teams to create and share nail designs and tutorials. Nail art designs will be featuring new and upcoming OPI collections as well as selected best-selling shades included in the brand’s 40th anniversary campaign. In addition, Jenny will make special appearances at virtual professional shows and press events. “We are thrilled to welcome Jenny to the OPI family,” said OPI co-founder and brand ambassador, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “Her artistry and technique truly shine, and she has a way with colour that is uniquely her own.” www.opiuk.com

Research shows buying nail polish ranks in the top 20 mood enhancers Research from UK-based price comparison website, www.money.co.uk, has revealed what beauty product purchases are the biggest mood-boosters when shopping online. Nail polish featured in the top 20 purchases that boost your mood, scooping the 12th position. Eyeshadow palettes appear 7th in the list with a 62% increase in positive emotions. Perfume came 11th, lipsticks at 20 and skincare products came 24th. “Our research reveals how small purchases can increase customers’ emotions in a positive way, something we all need after the past 12 months,” states Catherine Hilley, mobiles expert at www.money.co.uk. The Artistic Colour Revolution Alive & Amplified Reactive Nail www.money.co.uk Lacquer collection, available via www.louellabelle.co.uk

16 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAIL GURU KIRSTY MEAKIN LAUNCHES FASHION CLOTHING LINE

Nail tech dubbed ‘country’s nail expert’ after winning Nailympia trophies Angela Wilden of Luxembourg walked away with the Division 2 – Art Winner of Winners & the Winner of Winners trophies from the first edition Nailympia Online in March and has been dubbed the ‘nail expert of Luxembourg’ by her local TV station. This led to a spotlight on local TV show, Live! Planet People, where the host dubbed her the country’s resident ‘nail expert’. In her first Nailympia competition, Angela scooped: • Gold – Nails for an Album Cover • Silver – Art on Nails over 1 inch long • Silver – Art on Nails over 2 inches long • Bronze – Invent a Nail Shape • Bronze – The Joy of Nails with Bling! View all the entries at www.nailympia.com

SAVE THE DATE!

30 MAY IS NAIL TECH DAY!

Celebrate your achievements and career on 30 May; a day that US nailists mark to recognise fellow techs all over the globe. Scratch chatted to Illinois-based cosmetologist, Vernadine Kornegay, who founded www.nationalnailtechday.com and its associated social media platforms in 2016. She comments: “I absolutely love the beauty industry. Seriously, you can’t have your hair done without having your make-up, and nails done, right?” The lead manager of hair & nails at Kohler Water Spa, Lincoln Park, Chicago, added: “I decided to create National Nail Tech Day after noting National Hairstylist Day on 30 April. The nail department is as important as every other salon department. I am so excited to recognise nail techs – not just nationally, but internationally, on 30 May.” @nationalnailtechday

Guinness World Record holder gets 24ft fingernails cut off A Texan woman who has been growing her nails for 30 years has had them cut to embrace a new chapter in her life. Ayanna Williams held the Guinness World Records title for the longest fingernails on a pair of hands (female) at a combined length of 733.55 cm (24 ft 0.7 in). The global authority in record-breaking achievements partnered with Ripley’s Believe it or Not! on Ayanna’s final nail measurements before her nail cutting procedure in Fort Worth, TX, USA. After achieving her first record-breaking title in 2017, her nails are now immortalised with the updated record title and displayed at the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Orlando Odditorium. Before Ayanna’s nails were cut, dermatologist, Dr. Allison Readinger, measured them to find they had grown substantially since the 2017 record title certification. Ayanna’s nails reached 338.5 cm on her right hand and 395.05 cm on her left hand. Post-cut, Ayanna expressed instant ‘relief’ in her thumb and knuckles. www.guinnessworldrecords.com www.ripleys.com

Mancare product arrives to support mental health After two years in the making, Happy Paul has launched – a brand with a mission to support mental health through a smile. Created by Paul Gerrard of Gerrard International, a life-long sufferer of depression, Happy Paul hopes to change an ‘all or nothing’ approach to wellness by developing products that encourage simple, rewarding acts of self care. The first product is an uplifting roll-on perfume oil – a blend of mood-enhancing ingredients carefully crafted ‘to help trigger a little happy from the outside inwards.’ 20% of the profits from Happy Paul’s perfume oil will go to support YoungMinds mental health charity. Gerrard wants the benefits of Happy Paul to be positively felt, and to make users happy. He confesses: “Happy Paul will do its utmost to make products that bring a smile to the user, because we know how contagious a smile can be.” www.happypaul.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 17

Images courtesy of Guinness World Records/Ripley’s Believe It Or Not

Multi award-winning nail artist, educator, judge and mentor, Kirsty Meakin, avid skater girl, has launched her own line of clothing merch aptly named, the KM line. “I love everything creative; this includes nails, the arts and also fashion,” enthuses Kirsty. “Creative extension is something I have a passion for, so I decided to combine my love for fashion, nails and colour in my merch collection. “I wanted to create a fashion line that was comfortable, stylish, affordable and most of all makes you feel fabulous. I’m proud that each item is handmade in England, too.” The range offers masks, 3-piece co-ords, tracksuits and t-shirts, with prices ranging from £8 for a mask up to £49.99 for a full 3-piece co-ord. A full tracksuit starts at £42.99 and the t-shirts are £19.99. Sizes run from 8 to 24 and Kirsty designs every item herself. www.kirstymeakin.bigcartel.com

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NEWPRODUCTS

NSI Rubber Base £13.99 + VAT each www.nsinails.co.uk Sculpt salon length extensions, overlay the natural nail for strength and extend using tips with Rubber Base – available in two new shades; Opaque Baby Pink & Opaque Nude. Use Rubber Base to build a slight apex or for a smooth base for art. The formula is brush-on and soak-off.

Gelish Feel The Vibes Collection £16.99 + VAT each www.gsgroupuk.com Make the most of the new season with this bright, fun and eye-catching colour collection. The soak-off gel polish shades include It’s My Moment, a bright peach crème, and All Day, All Night – a magenta pearl.

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services Happy Paul 100% Perfume Oil £15 + VAT/RRP £30 www.happypaul.co.uk This uplifting roll-on oil features a blend of mood-enhancing ingredients, carefully crafted to help trigger happiness from the outside inwards. It’s the first product in the Happy Paul range, which has a mission to support mental health with a smile.

INK London Stardust Collection £58.33 + VAT www.inknails.com Create dazzling nail looks with these seven iLac shades, which each boast a densely packed pearly and glittery effect. The Stardust hues have a high gel content and are best applied in two coats. Shades are available individually for £10 + VAT.

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NailKind All You Need Is Fun Collection £4.75 + VAT/RRP £9.50 each www.nailkind.com Play with colour on fingers and toes with the six striking shades in NailKind’s summery collection. Shades include the dusky orange Ibiza Sunset, bold yellow Flip Flop and standout Popsicle Party pink. The formula is up to 85% biosourced and has a super glossy finish.

NEWPRODUCTS

CND Shellac™ Summer City Chic Collection £83.70 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Embrace bright hues and allow clients to stand out from the crowd with these six bold, punchy nail shades. This ‘colourful and energetic’ range includes the likes of fruity red Sangria At Sunset and electric blue Pop-Up Pool Party. Shades are available individually for £13.95 + VAT and in CND Vinylux™ formula, £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95.

SalonServe Sweezer Tweezer £8.95 + VAT each www.salonserve.com These lightweight Sweezer Tweezers are made from 100% recyclable aluminium and are ideal for removing fine hairs. Available in anodised metallic silver and metallic purple, this tool is supplied with its own protective tube. Purchase the pair for £17 + VAT.

Mii Summer Soundtrack Collection from £7.80 + VAT/RRP £15.50 www.gerrardinternational.com The six retail-friendly make-up items in Mii’s latest collection are designed to boost moods and bring a burst of feel-good colour this summer. Featured are three creamy and highly pigmented Mii Colour Intense Lip Sheens (£8.25 + VAT/RRP £16.50) the Luxury Bronzing Face Finish (£11.75 + VAT/RRP £23.50) for a natural, sun-kissed appearance and two One & Only Eye Colours (£7.80 + VAT/RRP £15.50).

NAF! Stuff Pro Cocktail Collection from £5.50 + VAT/RRP £8 www.nafstuff.com Bring the essence of holiday fun to your nail station with hydrating cuticle oils in Strawberry Daiquiri and Piña Colada scents. The retail-friendly pens are sold in packs of five and the 30ml desk oil bottles are £12 + VAT; both vegan-friendly with a cruelty-free, nut and gluten-free formula.

Light Elegance Dreaming in Color P+ Gel Polish Collection £149.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Dream big with this 12-piece collection of rich, creamy shades, sparkling shimmers and glamorous glitters. The 100% HEMA monomerfree formulation lasts for three weeks and removes in under 10-minutes when used with the P+ QDbase. Shades are available separately for £13.95 + VAT and the collection is also available in Color and Glitter Gel formulas.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 21

COVERSTORY

Chanel’s lipstick campaign in Vietnam channels chic styling with simple props & a sophisticated persona; now featured on this month’s Scratch cover. ALEX FOX dives in & learns more…

PEARLY

Queen Q T

he stunning cover imagery this month has travelled all the way from Ho Chi Minh City. Vietnamese session nail artist, Quinada, was invited to join the grooming crew for a Chanel shoot in Vietnam designed to highlight and promote Chanel’s campaign for Chanel Rouge Allure Laque lipstick. This month, Scratch marks its 18th birthday with two stunning images from the shoot.

“I work predominantly with Nguyen Dang Khanh Linh – who is an influencer, model, YouTuber, fashionista and KOL (key opinion leader), with an opinion that is valued, trusted and respected in the beauty industry,” Quinada reveals. “Every project I work on with Linh pays me $800, so it’s a great partnership. “For this shoot, Linh gave us the direction, brief and ideas and then the inspiration 24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

for my nail creation just popped into my mind. The idea of pearls literally jumped into my head and then onto the nails. The idea was then also taken onto the hair for a stronger effect.

“During the shoot, we created three main looks for the lipstick campaign, which involved around 20 images shot for each look, which took about 10 hours. For the nail styling I used products from CND™ with artificial pearls for the artistry. I used CND Brisa™ Gel to create the base canvas and form the oval shape for Linh’s nails. I then painted an overlay using CND Shellac™ in Clearly Pink, used glue to attach the pearls and then sprinkled gold glitter to add further texture. “When I was positioning the pearls, I didn’t focus too much on how to make them in tune with the pearls on Linh’s hair. Instead, I let the art flow freely, so that everything felt natural and enjoyable.”

COVERSTORY

COVER CREDITS Model: Khanh Linh @klinhnd Stylist: Chi Lemon @lem0n Make-up artist: Quí Đoàn @quydoan3105 Hair stylist: Thượng Gia Kỳ @thuong_gia_ky Nail artist: Quinada @quinadanailart Photographer: Trí Nghĩa @tringhia_nemotion Client: Chanel Vietnam @chanelofficial

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

HEALTHMATTERS

Nature

nuture &

Scratch recognises Mental Health Awareness Week 10-16 May with a focus on industry concerns, initiatives & techs willing to share their story…

he last year has seen us ‘locked down’; nesting inside the same four walls for longer periods of time than any of us have ever known. Many have been isolated at home alone, others in a pressurecooker style environment with family or friends; both of which can contribute to feelings of angst, loneliness and depression. This year, the Mental Health Foundation has chosen ‘nature’ as its theme for Mental Health Awareness Week; after millions of us turned to the outdoors for escapism and calm during the long months of the pandemic. “Our research on the mental health impacts of the pandemic showed that going for walks outside was one of our top coping strategies, and 45% of us reported that being in green spaces had been vital for our mental health,” comments Mark Rowland, chief executive of the Mental Health Foundation. “Websites that showed footage from webcams of wildlife saw hits increase by over 2000%. Wider studies also found that during lockdowns, people not only spent more time in nature but were noticing it more. It was as if we were re-discovering at our most fragile point our fundamental human need to connect with nature.” During 10-16 May, the Mental Health Foundation aims to inspire more people to connect with nature in new ways, noticing the impact that this connection can have on their mental health. It also hopes to convince decision makers at all levels that access to and quality of nature is a mental health and social justice issue as well as an environmental one. So, step outside between appointments, take a look out of the window and walk where possible; whether you park further away from the salon or walk to grab some lunch. Breathe in fresh air and look up from your phone – taking a little time for yourself to switch off and enjoy your natural surroundings.

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#ConnectWithNature

The Mental Health Foundation shares ways to connect with nature; an untapped resource for a mentally healthy future... “Stories are the best tools we have to influence change. Unless we can demonstrate nature’s role in bringing solace and joy to our lives, it will remain under-valued and under-utilised. “We want to hear stories of how nature has supported your mental health. This might be as a simple as tending to a house plant, listening to the birds, touching the bark of trees, smelling flowers or writing a poem about our favourite nature spot. Whatever it is for you, we invite you to #ConnectWithNature and share what this means for you. “During Mental Health Awareness Week, we are asking you to do three things:

1. Experience nature Take time to recognise and grow your connection with nature during the week. Take a moment to notice and celebrate nature in your daily life. You might be surprised by what you notice!

2. Share nature

Take a photo, video or sound recording and share the connections you’ve made during the week to inspire others. Join the discussion on how you’re connecting with nature by using the hashtags #ConnectWithNature #MentalHealthAwarenessWeek

3. Talk about nature

Use the tips, packs research and policy guides available via www.mentalhealth.org.uk to discuss with your family, colleagues and community how you can help encourage people to find new ways to connect with nature in your local environment.” www.mentalhealth.org.uk/mhaw /mentalhealthfoundation @mentalhealth @mentalhealthfoundation

HEALTHMATTERS

TECH TALK

Jazz Christodoulou, general manager at Georgie Smedley Group, bravely shares her story and battle with mental health issues… Have mental health issues impacted your nail and beauty career? If so, how? Very much so. I was only about 16 when I was privileged enough to work at Fashion Week in both London and Paris and on various other shoots. While my friends said that my work was so cool, I felt overwhelmed to the point of having panic attacks. I am much better at coping with my issues now but I still worry about things like getting into work. How have you sought to manage such impacts? I have tried so many things; from medication to therapy, exercise, diet, journalling and more. I believe that the hardest obstacle is yourself. I think some people might need to read that again. I’ve been suffering from poor mental health for almost 10 years and since I recognised it, I’ve found that the biggest thing that’s helped me (with the help of a cognitive behavioural therapist) is being aware of the fact that I am my own worst enemy. Mental illness cannot be avoided, especially if yours is a chemical imbalance or an issue rather than a situation that has caused depression or anxiety, but it’s important not to dwell on it. While this may be a harsh reality for some, the only way to cope is by coping; so be your number one fan, take care of yourself and push yourself to prove that you can do it. It’s very easy to say ‘I can’t’ but the more you look after yourself and push to be better, the more you will do and want to do! What, do you believe, are issues in the nail industry that could negatively impact a person’s mental health? We’re in an industry primarily full of lovely women… but there are some points during the month when hormones hit and we may say something out of turn. I think this, along with high expectations are causing nail techs to feel disheartened. It’s also easy for many to comments to be taken to heart, when they weren’t necessarily personal.

What is your advice to nail professionals for protecting their mental health on a day-to-day basis? I’ve found that by not taking things personally, ignoring things that don’t concern me and remembering that others are imperfect, helps me to stay focused instead of getting upset. When people have never suffered with a mental illness, it’s hard to be empathetic, and while it’s tough to be on the receiving end of someone who doesn’t understand when you’re suffering, you have to remember that nothing you say or do will help them to understand or experience what you’re going through. There’s got to be a balance between being sensitive with the thoughts of others and not being sensitive to what others are saying. Taking care of yourself is so important; drink lots of water, eat well but also enjoy a snack every now and then. It’s all about balance! Why is it important to be aware of mental health issues in the workplace? I always liken it to breaking a leg; you see someone in a cast and you know they can’t walk like most other people for this time period. Mental illness is just the same, and while it may not be visible, there are always signs to show when someone is suffering. If someone is a long-term sufferer, there will be days, weeks or even months where you don’t notice a spell, and then they may feel down again. Being there to support them is pivotal and the more positive my workmates are, the better my productivity and the more I enjoy my work. When I am surrounded by negative and discouraging people, I bury my head in the sand. What is your advice to nail professionals that may be struggling? You are beautiful, you are strong and I promise you can do this. Keep going. Put 100% of the energy you can muster up into a new project, take that workshop you’ve wanted to do, try a new style and buy a new product. Push yourself and keep going. ‘You need rain to grow flowers’, and while it may be a trickle, a downpour or a down right storm, it will pass, and when it does, you’ll be so pleased you’re stronger thanks to it. My door is always open for anyone who wants or needs a chat – I’ll never ever say no. www.gsgroupuk.com

@jazzchristodoulouxo

DID YOU KNOW…? The Hair & Beauty Charity is the official charity for the hair and beauty industry; an independent service dedicated solely to helping hair and beauty professionals in their time of need. With a heritage that dates back to 1836, the Hair & Beauty Charity offers financial support to individuals and their families facing difficult times due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, disability, domestic violence, bereavement and other difficult circumstances. For more information and to apply for support, visit www.hairandbeautycharity.org

Taking care of Y-O-U

Dave Heffernan, Scratch columnist and mental health coach, shares his thoughts on nail tech mental health matters… “The thing I’ve found to be true about nail techs and beauty therapists is they have an overwhelming urge to help others. That’s why they joined the industry. They make others feel good about themselves, offer their clients the space in which they can be free from the pressures and strains of the outside world and offer a safe space to offload. However, they can also have a tendency to forget about themselves, which can lead to unnecessary stress and anxieties. “I recognise that in order to be able to truly help others, you need to put your own oxygen mask on first. I work one-to-one and in groups through coaching and workshops; I listen to them and allow them to be heard. This is the most important part of what I do, as

techs spend all day listening to others. I then work with them on strategies to help make peace with everything that has gone on in their life, whether a forgiveness issue, regret and/or fear. By working this way, it frees up headspace to make decisions with clarity, as no good decision is ever made when stressed. Then, through these new strategies, it allows them to ground themselves and not allow any of their client’s issues to attach to them, which means both parties benefit. “Nail techs and therapists are in a unique position to tackle the rise in stress and anxiety and other mental health issues in their clients – they get to know them on a deep and personal level. All my work, at its core, is helping these professionals to recognise the signs of poor mental health, as Turn to page they are in a position to help themselves and 94 for more mental others be free and more authentic.” health advice from Dave Heffernan. www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

HEALTHMATTERS

Barber, Tom Chapman, has launched Hair&Beauty Talk; mental health training to help hair and beauty professionals recognise signs of struggle amongst clients. Chapman is founder of The Lions Barber Collective, an international group of barbers that have come together to help raise awareness for mental wellbeing and suicide prevention. Through the collective’s BarberTalk initiative, he has given mental health training to over 2000 hair professionals, and has now expanded his influence to the beauty sector. “The obvious next step for us was to open the informative, enjoyable and – most importantly – useable training to the hair and beauty industry,” Tom comments. “As a member of the advisory board for the British Beauty Council and through starting my career in hairdressing at Toni&Guy, I am aware that the hair and beauty industry holds a relationship of trust and intimacy with clients, as well as regular visits from them, which puts [professionals] in the perfect space to be able to recognise if someone is struggling.” The four-hour training helps hair and beauty pros ask questions that give those in need the opportunity to talk in a safe environment. It also gives skills to listen with empathy and without judgement – as well as the information to assist those in need in finding the correct help. This training is not to diagnose, advise or prescribe to those suffering, but to offer a safe, non-judgemental environment that is accessible to all. “In this industry we have long-standing relationships with people and are there for the highs and lows of those in our chairs,” Tom continues. “We are there for the first dates, the engagements, the weddings, christenings, new jobs etc, but we are also there for the redundancies, divorces, funerals and break-ups. Whether we like it or not we have these conversations, I want to prepare the industry for these situations, as they can be a matter of life and death.” Tom aims to gain funding to ensure that this training is always at no cost to an industry that has been hit so hard during the pandemic and helps prepare pros for the influx of clients offloading concerns and worries due to Covid-19. Tom is also working on a mental health PT session, which will expand the key steps to mental wellbeing and help provide knowledge of what we can do to keep ourselves mentally fit. Scan here to watch Scratch’s interview with Tom

For more information about Hair&Beauty Talk training, email tom@lionsbarbercollective.com @thelionsbarbers

TECH TALK

Nail artist, Marie-Louise Coster, reveals her experience of Hair&Beauty Talk… “During the various lockdowns we have experienced I have participated in 157 online courses – but I can honestly say I have never attended training like Hair&Beauty Talk. It is by far the best, and most impactful, training I have done in all my years in the industry. I feel that there is truly nothing else like it in our industry and it is so long overdue. “If there ever was a time to be more mindful of mental health, it is now. The isolation, uncertainty and loss this situation has created has affected everyone’s mental health. Life is different for all of us, including our clients, and things will be very different for all of them - both positive and negative. “We are in such a privileged position and spend such close and personal time with our clients. They share things with us that they don’t share with others and we are in a prime position to notice changes in their mood, their body language and their outlook. It is these changes that we need to be aware of so we can help and support them. “The Lions Barber Collective has been running courses within the barbering world for a few years now, with great success. Hair&Beauty Talk, the first of its courses adapted for the beauty sector, ran from 10am-2pm. There was a mixture of teacher-led work, virtual group work and input from attendees. I was a little apprehensive before the course and had a mixture of emotions. I lost a friend to suicide some years ago so I was feeling very emotional, but strangely excited about what I was going to learn and that it could save someone’s life. “Hair&Beauty Talk is a really insightful course, extremely well structured and informative but not overwhelming – and it is a course I feel passionately that all nail and beauty professionals must attend. “Our support and involvement with our clients is not something that should ever be underestimated, and we should be as well equipped as we can be to help our clients in whatever way we can. Nobody wants to feel low, nobody wants to die by suicide, sometimes a situation becomes so overwhelming, and seems so hopeless that they just want out of that situation and suicide can seem the only option. By listening, caring and helping to direct our clients to organisations that can help, we are in the best position to show them the alternative, and ultimately save their life.” www.marie-louisecoster.com

@mlcnailartist

How to keep the vibe high

By Jade Evangelou, creator of Jade Angel crystal energy infused products “By now, many techs and therapists will be back to doing what they love. And if you’re anything like me, this will mean continuous days working back to back with little time for ourselves. However, I know of some simple techniques and habits to include in your day to keep your mental health in tip-top shape and your vibrations high; feeling happy and having balance in life. “Keep balance by using a form of mindfulness such as meditation. Allow yourself 30-minutes every day just to be in the present moment and clear your mind. In my experience this increases awareness, energy and peace for the soul, amongst many other healing benefits. Other forms of mindfulness can include yoga, stretching and exercise. Drink water. This is so, so important. Drink at least two litres a day and if you can use purified water, do. In addition, try a hot bath. Buy a bag of salt; plain sea salt, pink Himalayan or Epsom. Every other day I put 2-3 cups as well as around 15 drops of pure lavender oil into a hot bath. It’s best to bathe in this for around 40-minutes for great benefits. Practice self love and your higher self will thank you for it.” www.jadeangel.co.uk /jadeangelenergy @jadeangelenergy

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HEALTHMATTERS

7 WAYS TO DEVELOP A POSITIVE MINDSET

Positivity rocks

By Monika Stachon, business coach, strategy & mindset coach

1. Incorporate journalling as a part of your daily routine You can write about your worries, goals and aspirations. Journalling is a fantastic tool that we can all use to keep track of our thoughts and redirect them when necessary. Use it to pause and reflect. Reconnect with yourself during this forced annual leave.

2. Reach out to people

You are not alone. Reach out to friends, create Facebook groups for your clients, make new nail tech friends in community groups and create a support network for when times are tough. Chat, inspire, educate and speak to family members. If you can’t do it in person, utilise free apps like Skype & FB Messenger.

3. Give yourself a spa break you deserve

In our industry it’s our job to make our clients look and feel good, and if you run your own business, you probably never have enough time to focus on making yourself feel good. Get your pedicure bowl out, give yourself a facial of a lifetime, make sure your nails pop.

4. Show others that in times of crisis, resilience is the way forward

In practicing this yourself, you’re teaching others an invaluable lesson.

5. Meditate

Consider starting and ending your day with meditation. It’s scientifically proven that meditation and breath work reduce stress on our bodies. If you’re a beginner to it, why not start with a guided meditation on YouTube while practicing nail art? It can be incredibly calming and mindful. Not only will you feel more present and relaxed, you’d have practiced your skills in the meantime.

www.projectpositivity.co.uk

SOCIAL STATS

6. Get moving

Dance in your living room or have a yoga morning. Endorphins trigger a positive feeling in the body and reduce pain; mentally and physically.

7. Be conscious

Your vibe attracts your tribe, and it’s important to remember that who you surround yourself with in times like this will affect your mood. Choose people you connect with wisely and lead your nail tribe with love and positivity. The way you speak on social media will attract people who are like minded; be negative and that’s all your world will become, be positive and you will open your mind and heart to hope, possibility and opportunity. Don’t be afraid to mute triggering accounts when necessary. www.monikastachon.com

Alicia Clough, owner of Derby’s Lunula Nails & Beauty, and salon manager, Lizzie Cawdron, launched Project Positivity merchandise in January. The Beauty Pro collection features 11 mantras on organic and ethical garments; including a hoody, a jersey and eight t-shirts. The quotes put forward are from the likes of Sharmadean Reid, founder of Beautystack, Millie Kendall MBE, CEO of the British Beauty Council; and Marian Newman BEM, session nail technician, author & chair of The Federation of Nail Professionals. Sizes XS to XL are available and every item also comes with a pin of the Hair & Beauty Charity logo, which can be worn with the garment to show support. “Our goal is to raise funds and awareness for the charity while also spreading positive vibes,” the duo states. “We wanted to design some garments to wear in the salon and provide a collection for our fellow professionals. We wanted to combine our love for quote garments and do something to help those in need.”

Two thirds of UK adults with a social media account believe that social media companies have a duty to protect the mental health of people who use their platforms, according to research by wellbeing company, Soul Analyse and OnePoll. Over half (56%) of those calling for mental health protection felt platforms should suggest tips on how to access helplines underneath posts that might be triggering, or point towards relevant communities that can offer support. Almost three quarters (73%) said they would like to see people who troll permanently banned.

/monikastachoncoaching

Awareness on camera

Nail tech and educator, Lisa Graves, shares the story behind a mental health awareness photo shoot… “The last year was a difficult one for everyone across the globe and, subsequently, awareness of mental health issues was heightened. Whenever I saw advertising or social media posts based around mental health, images used were always very sad. I decided I wanted to create something more positive while maintaining focus on the topic, so created a nail design with golden cracks. The nail symbolise that even if you’re broken, you can still be beautiful. The Japanese use a technique called golden repair or ‘kintsukuroi’, to fix broken items with lacquer mixed with powdered gold. “I approached photographer, Paul Ottley, to arrange the shoot and he wanted to create an image where

the model was half in dark, half in light, to represent the two conflicting sides of mental health; the constant struggle between being in a light and dark place. “I used Nailchemy’s Brandy Snap shade for the nails. Red is the colour of love and I wanted to portray that within the images, that even in a dark and sad image there is always love. I added some gold accents to complement the gold cracks on the face of our model, Emilia. The red and gold contrast beautifully. After doing a couple of test shots, I decided to add a matte finish to the nails to make the gold elements stand out. “Shadows across the frame were used to convey our message, as well as Emilia’s placement of her hands over her mouth as if stifling her voice, black tape and tears flowing from her eyes. We CREDITS: will be sharing these powerful @lisagraves.nailartist Nails: Lisa Graves images across social media Photographer: Paul Ottley to raise awareness of mental @paul_ottley_photography health issues.” Model: Emilia Evison @emilia.j.evison MUA: Laura Whittle @laurawhittlemua SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

MODEL IS WEARING: SPIN ME AROUND

ALL DAY, ALL NIGHT

SPIN ME AROUND

INTO THE LIME-LIGHT

ORANGE CRUSH BLUSH

HM-13745

SOUTH WEST UK 01300 348645

gsgroupuk.com

IT’S MY MOMENT

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® are excited to introduce the Feel The Vibes Collection. This bright, fun collection is all about making the most of the summer season. Filled with eye-catching shades, the Feel The Vibes collection is perfect for statement making manicures and pedicures.

KEEPIN’ IT COOL

INDUSTRYINSIDER

Cosmetic THE

Climate Take note as The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) shares progress in sustainability matters in the cosmetics sector BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD

Head of scientific & environmental services at The CTPA

SUSTAINABILITY & THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY

he global climate strike, stark and scary documentaries, electric cars, reusable coffee cups… over the past few years, sustainability has become more and more ingrained into our daily lives and the choices that we make.

our products on the planet. A good place to start is to understand the impact of a product across its entire lifespan.

Taking a salon nail polish as an example, this means starting at the very first product design stage and thinking about which ingredients are used, as well as where they are from and how they If we’re trying our best as consumers, are the brands and are made? Then, moving on to how the product itself is made; businesses that provide our products also doing their bit? After can this be done using less energy or water? How is the all, ensuring that future generations can also enjoy this product packaged and transported? After the product beautiful planet without compromise is a challenge Sustainable innovations has been used up, can the nail professional easily that can only be solved by combining the forces recycle the container or have it refilled? that benefit people and of governments, businesses, consumers, scientists the planet include things and many others. This way of thinking is called ‘environmental like reusable and refillable life cycle assessment’ and many cosmetics packaging, takeback schemes, The good news is that the cosmetics industry, companies are taking this approach and using a wider range of product from big to small companies, has been taking it to set themselves targets and issue public formats such as shampoo proactive steps to improve the sustainability of reports on how they are doing in terms of cosmetic products for many years – some even making improvements. bars, ingredients made from since the 1970s. These efforts are more than just renewable sources… the greenwashing; there are real achievements that The CTPA’s Sustainability Strategy list is ever-growing. reduce the industry’s use of resources, improve the lives of At the CTPA, the team believes that this rounded people involved in the cosmetic product supply chain, and allow approach to evaluating and improving sustainability is helpful. us to use the products we love guilt-free. That’s not to say the journey Therefore, its Sustainability Strategy, which was launched in 2019, has ended – we are still far from it. Although helps cosmetics and personal care the cosmetics industry is working hard companies improve their practices It’s a myth that on some great initiatives, we are throughout the entire supply chain. natural ingredients or very much aware that there’s a cosmetics are safer than long way to go! The goal of this strategy is to drive synthetic ones. Our bodies the UK cosmetics industry towards can’t tell where an ingredient has becoming ‘net positive’, which means How do cosmetics come from, and all ingredients and giving more back to society, the & sustainability cosmetic products must be safe. environment and the global economy fit together? than it takes out. This is a big aim, What does sustainability After all, nature produces many but the CTPA is working towards this mean for cosmetic products of the best poisons. The most by bringing its members together to and our industry? There are toxic substance in the world is share best practice and collaborating a number of opportunities to botulinum toxin, made by with other organisations to use their improve the way that we do Clostridium bacteria. expertise. For example, it is working things and reduce the impact of 34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYINSIDER with the sustainability charity WRAP to improve recyclability of product packaging and the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil to raise awareness of using sustainably sourced palm oil. Over the next few articles, I will look in detail at each area of the strategy; sourcing and manufacturing, waste and end-of-life fate, and wellbeing, to see what can be done at each stage to make the cosmetics industry more sustainable.

The most sustainable option isn’t always the most obvious We all know that glass is better than plastic, right? And natural ingredients are more environmentally friendly than synthetic ingredients? In fact, it’s not that simple. Several scientific studies have investigated the environmental impact of different packaging materials over their lifetime, usually concluding different winners. This is not surprising, because the studies take into account different factors, such as how Cosmetics Europe, much energy is used to manufacture the packaging the European personal care and to transport it, how many times the material can be recycled, how much energy that takes trade association, has reported and how much of it is recycled. For example, that one of the largest European glass is much heavier than plastic, so more cosmetics manufacturers has already energy is required to transport it, but more measured the carbon footprint of glass is recycled than plastic and it can 165,000 of its cosmetic products. usually be recycled more times.

Finding out more about the This information not only helps to sustainability credentials of find ways of improving existing A lot of thought and care needs to go into companies & their products products, but to ensure that the sourcing of natural ingredients to ensure In the UK, cosmetic and personal care new products are designed that this is done sustainably and that the products are regulated by the UK Cosmetics people involved in this part of the supply chain Regulation. This law entered into force on 1 to be as sustainable are paid and treated fairly. For example, obtaining January 2021 and maintains the same principles as possible. orchid extracts from farmed and controlled sources, rather than from the wild, which could endanger the natural population – or harvesting certain parts of a plant such as the leaves in a way that doesn’t kill the entire plant.

as the EU Cosmetics Regulation, which was previously in place in the UK. According to both the UK and EU laws, any claims that a cosmetics company makes about its products must be true, and the company has to hold evidence to support the claims. This also applies to claims about the environment or sustainability.

What do ‘synthetic chemicals’ make you think of? Maybe something unsafe, toxic or harmful to the environment. This might or might not be true, but exactly the same can be said for natural chemicals. After all, everything is made up of chemicals. Synthetic chemicals must be produced, used and managed responsibly, while their manufacture supports economic prosperity, which in turn enhances the quality of life and wellbeing of thousands of employees.

The CTPA has produced detailed resources for both its members and the wider cosmetics industry to help companies clearly explain the product’s environmental credentials and avoid ‘greenwashing’, or making vague statements, which aren’t properly supported. This guidance can be found as a publication on its website (www.ctpa.org.uk).

Chemical companies are working hard on innovations to ensure that this can be achieved. Bio-based feedstocks are one example, and this means using waste or renewable sources, which contain carbon, rather than fossil fuels, as starting materials for new substances such as cosmetic ingredients or packaging materials. From used coffee grounds and vegetable oils to sugarcane and corn, there are a vast number of options available for renewable starting materials.

Many companies also publish Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) or Sustainability Reports on their websites, which can be a helpful way to understand more about a company’s philosophy and sustainability practices. These reports include information about how ingredients are sourced, where they are made and by whom, as well as the overall ethical behaviour of the company. They may also include information about the setting up of charitable foundations or partnering with community ‘Green chemistry’ is organisations or charities to improve the a way of thinking about lives of people all over the world.

chemistry that focuses on protecting and benefiting the CTPA’s Sustainability Hub economy, people and the planet by As part of its Sustainability Strategy, the CTPA finding creative and innovative ways has recently launched a Sustainability Hub, to reduce waste, conserve energy which can be found on its website at www.ctpa.org.uk/sustainability-hub. and discover replacements for The Hub helps both large and smaller hazardous substances. companies navigate sustainability challenges by breaking down key topics and offering helpful tools and advice.

(American Chemistry Society)

Take a look at the CTPA’s Sustainability Hub to find out more about how the cosmetics industry is working to become more sustainable. www.ctpa.org.uk / www.thefactsabout.co.uk

@thectpa

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s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , ti v e s & m o re … o m r e re a c s, w d ra KEY QUALITIES

Ambitious and dedicated, Taureans are one of the more focused and hardworking signs of the zodiac. They are committed and persistent and have high levels of productivity due to their determination to achieve, constantly persevering in order to reach their goals. They are practical people and often considered as being the voice of reason amongst friends. This earth sign is laid-back, relaxed, observant and analytical.

COLOUR PICKS

Black mirrors the practical and stable nature of the Taurus personality. As an earth sign, shades of green and brown are perfect for a Taurus, revitalising and reflecting its vibrance. White can have a soothing effect on a Taurus as it complements the relaxed and laid-back nature of the sign. The femininity of its ruling planet, Venus, makes pink a strong match for the sign, too. NSI Polish Pro in Roadie £10 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

OPI GelColor in Alpine Snow £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Salon System Gellux in Wild Style £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

INK iLac Gel Polish in i-206 £10 + VAT www.inknails.com 36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Taureans are best suited to artistic, ‘hands-on’ careers, finding purpose in bringing beauty to the lives of others. Taureans work best when they can see the finished, final results of their hard work, seeking gratification from the beauty they create. Those born under this sign make amazing nail techs due to their creative, artistic nature and close attention to detail.

CND Vinylux™ in Black Pool £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Artistic Perfect Dip in Too Much Sax £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Mei Kawajiri ser ves up a supercute 3D nail design for Gigi Hadid.

STYLE FILE

Self-expression is important to a Taurus, so this sign isn’t afraid to make a statement. Taureans relish in beauty and skincare and have a fashion-forward sense of style. They value quality and texture in their style and even casual looks are stylish and on-trend. Some stylish Taurus celebrities include Gigi Hadid, Channing Tatum, Travis Scott, Adele, David Beckham, Megan Fox, Cher, Blac Chyna and Rosario Dawson.

arienailz

Amongst colleagues, Taureans are known for being reliable and patient, always offering help when it’s needed. They are honest people who keep promises and expect the same in return from those around them.

Taureans love home comforts, and family is extremely important to them. Ruled by Venus, Taureans love both living and working in beautiful environments. They are hardworking, consistent, focused and patient in the workplace; known for being thorough with tasks. They love taking all the time they need to concentrate and finish the job properly.

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Those born under Taurus make loyal friends; always willing to lend a helping hand to those in need. Taureans easily create close connections with others and see the best in the people around them. A Taurus is known for being a trustworthy and dependable friend who offers good advice and loves to laugh.

WORK & HOME HABITS

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PERSONAL & PROFESSIONAL RELATIONSHIPS

m/nailsbymei

20 April –20 May

Those born under Taurus are loyal and reliable people who bring stability to the lives of others. Taureans are known for their understanding nature, valuing honesty in others. Ruled by Venus, this sign has an appreciation for the beauty in life and has a creative, artistic flair and a keen eye for detail.

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“Those born under this sign make amazing nail techs due to their creative, artistic nature and close a ention to detail.”

Ready TO ROCK 8 shades from the NEW Gellux Collection. Available at your wholesaler now.

#Gellux

www.salonsystem.com

@salonsystem

NAILSTYLES&TECHNIQUES

French Form & Perfect the classic French manicure with top tips & products to help clean up common dilemmas CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

finish

Understated in style and undoubtedly chic, the classic French manicure has been a staple on nail service menus since it gained popularity in the 1970s. Enhancing the look of the natural nail to create a more polished, brighter look, the French boasts a clean finish – and offers a simple yet elegant aesthetic. While the classic French is a universal style, it’s up to you as the nail technician to determine the system most suited to your client to create it, and the shades that best complement their skin tone. Elongate with an enhancement or play with shape to achieve the desired effect. Glammed up or dressed down, this versatile style is timeless and easy to maintain if desired. Using an appropriate cover shade to suit the individual and creating an even smile line is key to ensuring a high-quality, crisp French finish. With no nail art to mask uneven smiles, skill is left exposed – so up the ante and overcome common dilemmas to perfect your finish with our top tips…

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Fingers appear elongated in this delicate French manicure by Agata Krawczyk, Indigo Nails educator.

NAILSTYLES&TECHNIQUES

The perfect match

Not one shade suits all skin tones, so it’s essential to choose the right cover shade – regardless of system – and most complementary white hue (whether bright or off white) to achieve a look that enhances the client’s natural nail.

“Your client’s skin tone should always be the main focus when choosing a base shade for your French manicure,” comments Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert. “For people with fair or light skin, pink and rosebased shades are best, whereas medium and olive skin tones will suit beiges and light brown nudes. As for dark and deep skin tones, choose creamy or caramel nudes.”

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TOP TIP

If using the reverse technique, ensure your cover shade is opaque.

12 “If your choice is limited, make sure you always blend the cover pink with the fullest coverage toward the smile line and the more opaque coverage toward the cuticle area,” suggests Paulina Zdrada, owner, The Nail Lab Salon & Academy. “This way, you can achieve the most natural look for any client of any skin tone while getting the most natural effect when the nails begin to grow out.”

13 “Make sure you have at least three pinky/ nude shades and two white shades available,” suggests Loretta Walker, OPI educator. “I have created a number of French designs on nail pops so I’m able to hold this to my client’s nail and pick the best shade for them. This makes it easy and quick to find a shade that suits.”

1 Indigo Nails Mineral Base in Sensual Skin £8.50 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 2 Halo Polibuild Precision Gel in Soft White & Nude £19.99 + VAT each www.purenails.co/stockists 3 Gelish in Call My Blush £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com 4 Salon System Gellux in Bare Necessities £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide. 5 Astonishing Nails Gelosophy French Duo £25 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk 6 NSI Attraction Acrylic Powder in Rose Blush £11.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk 7 Jessica Phenom Vivid Nail Colour in Pink-A-Boo £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com 8 Purple Professional P1579 Milky Rose Builder Gel £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt 9 INK London iJel Signature £8.33 + VAT www.inknails.com 10 Dipt Dipping Powder in Vino Veritas £15.99 inc VAT www.diptnails.com 11 Glitterama Core Powders in Dainty Doll, Ballet Shoes & Brilliant White £6.95 inc VAT each www.glitterama-nails.com 12 OPI GelColor in Samoan Sand & Bubble Bath £17.80 + VAT each www.opiuk.com 13 The Gel Bottle Inc in Naked £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

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NAILSTYLES&TECHNIQUES

Shaping up Ensuring that the smile line is consistent and the cover shade is the perfect match for your client are two imperative aspects of a clean and classic French mani or pedi. But when it comes to shape, how can you banish the bulk and tame unshapely natural nails? Here, techs share their top tips…

Emma Furay, Crystal Nails educator, creates this French design using hard gel. Squoval shapes are created in this design by Justyna Maris, Indigo Nails educator.

“Good product control is essential for a sleek nail,” comments Emma Furay, Crystal Nails educator. “Do not use more product than you need and turn the client’s hand upside down to pull the product back to the middle.”

TIPS FOR TIPS TIME MATTERS

“My clients know when they visit a French is not going to be a quick job,” comments Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert. “Explain to your client that this design may take longer than a one-colour service when they book.”

“Round and almond shaped nails seem to be more popular amongst mature clients or those with longer natural nails,” comments Hari Hatfield, Halo VIP. “Almond/ rounded nails can carry French manicures well with a long length and the curved smile line can mimic the curve of the almond well to balance out the perfect white to pink ratio. “Clients with shorter nails or square shaped nails seem to be most popular amongst younger clients in my experience. Shorter squared nails give the perfect pink-white ratio for shorter length nails.”

TOOL TALK

“Applying multiple layers of white to the tip could create unnecessary bulking of the free edge area,” reveals Paulina Zdrada, owner of The Nail Lab Salon & Academy. “When building the nail, sculpt with your brush rather than your file – try to apply the right amount of product to reduce the need for filing. If you do find there is some bulkiness, you can use an electric file (if qualified) to remove the bulkiness before refining with a 180-grit file.”

“I have seen a huge surge in almond and oval manicures with French tips,” reveals Daisy Kalnina, founder ‘ of The Gel Bottle Inc & Peacci.

“When using gel polish, thin coats are ideal when creating the tip. Choose to do one to two thin coats rather than one thick one and if needed, apply two top coats to even out the nail, leaving the bulk of the product in the pink area,” reveals Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert. “I would work in smaller beads to prevent any bulkiness to the nail. You can always add more. This will also prevent excess filing at the end,” comments Amanda Byrne, Magpie Beauty educator. “Make sure your white tip is proportionate to the nail. I find anything over 3/4 pink; 1/4 white can start to look too heavy,” adds Claire Howard, Lecenté educator.

“To prevent bulkiness when doing a classic French with gel, do not apply it too thick,” suggests Aimee Purser, founder of Aimee Purser Beauty. “I find it’s better to do two thin layers rather than one thick layer that could look bulky.”

6 1 Indigo Nails Easy Shape Cover £25.90 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 2 Light Elegance Foil Forms (300 Roll) £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 3 CND Brisa Gel™ in Warm Beige Opaque £22.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 4 Light Elegance Lexy Line Cover Pink 1-Step £33.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 5 CND™ Retention+ Powder in Bright White Opaque £35.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 6 Salon System Gellux Builder Gels £11.95 + VAT each. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

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www.snaprofessional.co.uk Image created using: SNA Quick Tips, Gelosophy & AST Art Gel by @nailsbyabbi

NAILSTYLES&TECHNIQUES

The ideal smile According to Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician, the ideal shape of the smile line should mirror the shape at the base of the nail to create a symmetrical top and bottom.

“Ratio is key when creating a French manicure with liquid & powder,” comments Emma Prescott, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “If your ratio is perfect, then you will have more control of your product. If it is too wet, it is going to run away and become difficult to control.

“Consider using a highly pigmented white gel that will avoid the accidental creation of shadows along the smile line,” comments Paulina Zdrada, owner, The Nail Lab Salon & Academy. “Also, as it doesn’t run, it makes it easier to create the perfect curve. One technique that is widely used is to paint an outline using a long detailer brush – this is done with a simple horizontal line and two diagonal lines either side.”

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“Air bubbles and pitting can be a huge problem too. Prioritise ratio control then technique. Do not to rush – if you have the correct ratio then you have plenty of time to work with this smile line.”

WHAT IS THE CORRECT RATIO?

“Keeping the pink ratio between 70% and 75% and the white between 25% and 30% gives a nice, elegant looking nail,” states Emma Furay, Crystal Nails educator.

TOP TIP

“The thinner the white tip, the more elegant it will look. You can create a longer and slimmer appearance by doing a more pronounced smile line,” adds Agnes Dullo, INK London educator.

Paulina Zdrada demonstrates the classic French in this chic design.

Claire Howard, Lecenté educator creates this skinny French using Lecenté Create in White Magic.

If you are right-handed (vice versa for left-handed techs), work from the little finger on the left hand across to the little finger on the right hand. This way you are working away from each nail you have just done so are less likely to knock or smudge any of the smile lines. Also, if using gel, popping each nail into your lamp for five seconds to flash cure can help to prevent knocks, smudges and fluff attacks.

“Use a new file to ensure the crispness of an enhanced smile line,” reveals Jo Duncan at Joanna Louise Beauty & Training. “Alternatively, use a thin diamond file to enable you to get right into the corners of the smile line.”

“When using gel polish, I always use a liner brush to create the French tip, then if needed I will use a rounded or angled gel brush to neaten the smile line. I find this gives me more control than using the brush that comes with the bottle,” advises Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert.

TOP TIP “When using lacquer to create your smile line, paint the white tip with one swift motion from one corner to the other,” reveals Agnes Dullo, INK London educator. 42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILSTYLES&TECHNIQUES

DIP IT!

This dipping tray from Artistic Nail Design is dual ended, meaning you can create different depths of smile lines when creating the classic French. It can also be used for mixing bespoke colours.

“Make sure you have barely any excess gel polish on the brush you are using. You can always add as you go but it’s harder to keep the smile line crisp when you are trying to take product off the nail,” shares Rosanna Hatherell, Salon System nail expert.

A crisp French manicure by Agata Krawczyk, Indigo Nails educator.

7 Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert recreates the classic French manicure in this elegant design.

TOP TIP

“I use a flat gel brush to create my smile line, so I can ensure the corner points are symmetrical, the curve is even, and the white is balanced with the correct ratio,” says Loretta Walker, OPI educator. “My top tip is not to follow the client’s natural dividing line as this can cause the style to not be consistent across the two hands.

The French mani on a variety of nail shapes, by Jo Duncan of Joanna Louise Beauty & Training.

Deanna Stelmaschuk creates this elegant, crisp smile line using en Vogue hard gels.

“I always prefer the reverse method for a sharp smile line. I achieve this with a combination of an e-file and a 180-grit hand file. Make sure you build your cover shade up high enough so you have room to create a nice wall to push your white up against,” adds Deanna Stelmaschuk, head educator at en Vogue.

“For an even nail design, I always make sure my smile line points sit at the same level on each finger and use the knuckles to find my central point,” reveals Jessica Wilkinson, Glitterama educator.

“I would always do one nail’s smile line at a time and work on the other hand while it is curing as this makes sure the smile line doesn’t move and remains crisp.”

1 Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in All White Now £4.95+ VAT/ RRP £10.99 www.louellabelle.co.uk 2 Jessica Custom Colour in Chalk White £5.50 + VAT/RRP £11 www.gerrardinternational.com 3 Lecenté A1 Brush £6.95 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com 4 CND Brisa Gel™ in Pure White £55.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 5 Light Elegance Bling Brush Smile Line £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 6 Artistic Nail Design Perfect Dip Tray £9.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk 7 Indigo Nails Igloo White Cream £10.60 + VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 8 Glossify Liner Brush £12 inc VAT www.glossify.co.uk 9 The Gel Bottle Inc in Daisy £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com 10 Light Elegance ButterCream in Just White £13.13 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 11 Astonishing Nails Touch of Detail brushes in Rose Gold (set of 3) £9 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

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NAILSTYLES&TECHNIQUES

Using Purple Professional Acrygel, Bruna Chagas created this elegant baby boomer style.

The baby boomer/ ombré

Altering the classic French for an ombré or baby boomer style has become increasingly popular as a softer take on the look; and one that prevents the need to perfect a smile line. Experts share their top tips on how to recreate the ombré style…

TOP TIP

“For me, baby boomer styles are much easier to do than sharp smile lines but getting the perfect blend does take practice,” reveals Tina Bell, head of education & support at Pure Nails. “I like to use a smaller brush for the ombré itself and then cap with my normal brush. Making sure you cap the blend and the sidewalls will help protect the white and ombré when you buff. For an ombré with gel polish, invest in a great ombré brush and find a technique that suits you. With practice it will become second nature and it’s a great effect that clients love.”

TOOL TALK!

“To create an ombré nail, I use The Gel Bottle’s ombré brush,” reveals Aimee Purser, founder of Aimee Purser Beauty. “Apply the pink and white to each half of the nail either vertically or horizontally, overlapping the colours slightly and then blend with the brush. You may need to cure and repeat to get full coverage.”

STYLE FILE Follow Paulina Zdrada, owner, The Nail Lab Salon & Academy, as she shares a guide to creating the baby boomer style using hard gel. Scan here to check it out

STEP-BY-STEP

Emma Furay, Crystal Nails educator displays how to create a baby boomer style overlay using gel… Step 1 Prep the nail with a cuticle tool to remove the dead skin and then remove the shine of the nail with a 180-grit file. Dehydrate and use your chosen primer. Step 2 Apply a cover pink base layer with a gel brush and cure. Step 3 Using a soft white gel, create the free edge area. Blend back towards the cuticle with your brush and feather the white out half way down then cure. Step 4 Apply a milky rose pink to the apex. Blend around the cuticle and sidewalls and gently fade over the white gel blend line with your gel brush then cure. Step 5 File and shape with a 180-grit file. Remove scratches with a buffer then apply top coat and cure. www.crystalnails4u.co.uk

TOP TIP

“Once you have painted your French base, instead of using a sponge to apply the white high pigment gel, consider a white pigment powder and brush it into the tacky layer of the French base,” comments Faye Dennis, Bio Sculpture mentor. “For more intensity at the end, just tap in more pigment and finish with a top coat.” 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

MY STYLE: L&P acrylic

“For the French ombré, I mix the core Magpie Beauty acrylic powders in Powder Puff and Threadbare to create the pink, and I mix French Knickers and Cloud Nine for the white,” reveals Amanda Byrne, Magpie Beauty educator & Scratch Stars Polish & Paint Artist of the Year 2019. “Apply the white first to the free edge of the nail/form and blend towards the cuticle. Next, apply the first bead of cover pink to where the white ends and blend this towards the free edge. “Apply the second pink bead at the cuticle, making sure it is flush to the cuticle and then blended towards the free edge. Cap the blend with a cloudy white as this makes the blend more seamless and protects the blend when it comes to filing.” www.magpiebeauty.co.uk 1 Indigo Nails Ombré Sponges (2pk) 99p inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 2 Light Elegance Lexy Line Cover Pink 1-Step £33.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 3 Purple Professional Acrygel in P1528 Cover Nude £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt 4 Halo Gel Polish in Mimi £4.99 + VAT www.purenails.co/stockists 5 Lecenté Ombré Powder in Taupe £6.95 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk 6 Magpie Beauty Baby Boomer Pigment £4.50 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk 7 Crystal Nails Baby Boomer Gel Collection £22.15 + VAT www.crystalnails4u.co.uk 8 The Gel Bottle Ombré Brush £9 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

TECHFORTECHS

A NAIL TECH’S GUIDE TO

TikTok

Much more than an app for showing off dance moves, explore the social media phenomenon that is TikTok & how to use it effectively in the nail scene BY CHLOE RANDALL & CALLIE ILEY The role of a nail technician involves so much more than the work behind the nail desk. Keeping up with social media apps to promote your business to potential clients is essential, and TikTok is making waves in the nail sector. Nail videos on TikTok have really grown in number over lockdown, with techs using the time to showcase their skills; creating various sets of nails in a short video with music, transitions and text. Get set to capitalise on its features with our handy guide to making a mark on TikTok…

TOP TIP

Scan here to check out Leala’s TikTok

“You don’t really need very much equipment to create a TikTok , but I recommend a ring light, a tripod and a good quality camera on a phone. A neutral background also helps, too!” Leala Kennedy, Kennedy Beauty Studios

CHECK IT! 1. The basics After you register your username, ensure that all sections of your profile are complete, with a profile picture and a bio. Don’t forget to link your TikTok to your Instagram profile, too!

2. Consistency Posting regularly is key. Try to post at least once a week to maximise your growth. Keep your username the same as your other social channels where possible.

3. Use popular sounds Videos using trending sounds are more likely to be seen on the ‘For You’ page. You can also save sounds from videos you’ve watched to use on your own videos later!

4. Use hashtags Use popular and relevant hashtags in your video captions. You can see what’s trending on the ‘Explore’ page.

5. Engage with others Share the love with other users! Give their videos a ‘Like’ and a comment to boost their engagement, and they might return the favour.

@kennedy.beauty.studios

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_by_sara l_designs .com/nai

TikTok is taking over – as nail technician, Sarah Foster, reveals a design with a TikTok- themed nail design!

hfoster

MANI SPOT

Instagram

NEWSFLASH!

Scratch Magazine is on TikTok! Find us on TikTok @scratch.magazine where we’ll be resharing YOUR nail art videos!

TECHFORTECHS

HOW TO CREATE A TIKTOK

A step-by-step guide by nail artist, Faith James, who boasts over 40,000 followers on the platform. Scan here to check out Faith’s profile @faithjamesnails

1. Press the ‘+’ button at the bottom of the screen to get started.

2. Select the ‘60’ at the bottom on the screen if you would like to record a video longer than 15 seconds. You can also add your sound by clicking the ‘add sound’ button at the top of the screen.

3. Once you are set up and ready to record, click the ‘timer’ button on the right of the screen. Here, you can drag the red line as far along as you want depending on how long you want your first clip to be, then click ‘start countdown’.

“Nail videos on TikTok have really grown in number over lockdown, with techs using the time to showcase their skills.” TECH TALK Olivia Lyman shares what she loves about TikTok…

“TikTok has been an amazing way to get my content noticed; showing people what I can do and how much I love doing it. This has not only allowed me to gain followers, but also new clients.

4. Repeat this process

5. You can add effects,

6. When you are ready

as many times as you need. Once you have all your clips, click the red tick to move on.

text or voiceovers at this stage using the buttons on the bottom of the screen. You can also make tweaks to your video by clicking ‘adjust clips’, where you can make clips shorter, or switch them around.

to upload, you can select a cover photo. This is what people will see on your page. Also, make sure you add a short description and use relevant hashtags.

“Posting regularly is key. Try to post at least once a week to maximise your growth.”

“Throughout the third lockdown, I started to create and sell custom made press-on nails. I had in mind that this would only be a small, yet essential income for me from local clients, to support me financially through lockdown. However, TikTok took it to the next level and I was able to custom make many beautiful sets for people all around the world!” @livvy_lyman_nails @Livvy_Lyman_nails

Scan here to check out Livvy’s TikToks

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The business of

BEAUTY Nail expert, salon owner, educator & mentor, LIZA SMITH, shares her wisdom & advice to benefit your business

NAIL INDUSTRY CHANGES & CHALLENGES

et’s face it, the last 12 months or so have, at best, been a mixed bag. For me, as a veteran (wow, that sounds ancient!), the problems faced were not quite as traumatic as they were for some.

I’ve seen some really great highs, but also some dreadful lows in my 35 years in the industry, and I believe it’s the challenges I’ve faced during those 35 years that made the lockdowns easier to navigate. Without sounding like my Nan, things really were different ‘back in the day!’ Not better, or worse, just different. 1. We didn’t have internet or smart phones. This seems like a disadvantage, and of course I would rather have access to these two amazing bits of tech, however, we also weren’t bombarded with 24/7 ‘noise’ either. 2. It took years, not days, to become qualified. This means it was slower to get new blood into the industry and there wasn’t the choice we see now for both employer and employee. However, we were sure of their capabilities due to the extent of the training they would have gone through to become a professional. 3. The industry was smaller. There was less competition, but also, less innovation and it was slower to get new things to excite us. 4. We were charging £40 for a new set of enhancements. Many are now charging less. Easiness of qualification and a flooded market takes away the confidence of many nail techs. 5. No-one spoke to anyone else in the industry. We are now a very big, fabulous nail family, and the biggest bonus of the last 12 months is that we all know each other even better. However, imposter syndrome is very real, when it’s hard to know just what is and isn’t real on our competitor’s Instagram feed. 6. No-one had a business coach. I was lucky to have a conversation with my bank manager or my accountant in those days! In today’s world of social media, we have access to people very easily. In the last six years, I’ve had at least two coaches, and for me, the biggest win of the last 12 months has been the gift of time, which I’ve used to develop and write my salon business coaching content, all while building relationships with many salon professionals along the way. 7. Working in a salon or being a mobile tech were the only job options. Now, we can travel the world to work backstage at fashion shows or on location for a photo shoot, compete in global competitions, teach for a brand or for ourselves, be employed, self-employed or even an apprentice. www.bodylines.biz

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/liza.smithnails

8. There were only three nail brands when I started, and there are now too many to count. This gives us choice, which is great, but it also means we have to do a lot of research to be able to trust a brand’s marketing. 9. Admin was the bane of my life with double entry bookkeeping, and now we have QuickBooks and other equivalents. A paper diary and pencil not only meant things could be removed without me knowing (I soon caught on) but things got lost and had to be written out again for the accounts, whereas the salon management systems we now use save so much time. 10. Advertising used to cost thousands of pounds a year, whereas now, it can be achieved for free. Looking back over these changes gives us an insight into how business owners that have survived three decades are less likely to be fazed by the events of 2020. It didn’t bulletproof us, as the issues we have had to deal with have been unprecedented. What it has done, however, is prepare us for change. The industry I joined in the 80’s is unrecognisable to the one we now have and adjusting to those changes simply strengthens our resolve.

How do I see the industry moving forward & what should we be doing to future-proof our businesses? • Get to know and understand your business as well as you understand your clients. • Ask for help from people you trust, and as soon as you can afford to, pay someone that knows more than you to help. That could be a business coach, a bookkeeper or someone to manage your social media. • Stop selling your time for money. This means do not base your prices purely on the time they take, or you will never have enough money to reinvest in you or your business. • Do not compare yourself to others. Easier said than done, but remember, ‘you are the sum total of the five people you listen to the most.’ So tune out the noise and change the frequency of what you are listening to. • Turn up as the professional you want to be. Do more, be more, listen more. Don’t be envious of anyone, be inspired by the right people. The industry may shrink in the next two years, so we need to be awake and the person that people want to pay money to. This is a good thing. The best thing however, is that you get to choose to be part of it. @lizasmithnails

@lizasmithnails

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Swindon-based nail stylist, CARMEN RODRIQUEZ, shares her slick application skills & quirky artistry

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Carmen Rodriquez Age – 24 years Business name – Afterglow By Carmen Location – Swindon Years in nails – Two years Trained with – Bristol Nail & Beauty Training School Fav products – I love Candy Coat’s Pro Palette gel polish. The formula is highly pigmented and so easy to work with. Fav nail technique – I really enjoy embossing. I tried it for the first time earlier this year and wish I’d done it sooner! I love the 3D effect it offers. Fav nail design – Anything with a doll or a character. I have been painting lots of Bratz dolls as I enjoy breaking the characters down and then dressing them up on the nails. Career ambition & vision – I want to continue improving my craft to become the best nail tech I can be. I also hope

that I can pass the knowledge I’ve gained so far onto aspiring nail techs through one-to-one sessions and masterclasses. I think it’s important for techs to do their own research and find a brand that works for them, but I want to be there to offer advice and guidance that I didn’t really have when I first started out. Who do you admire in the industry? There are so many creative individuals in the nail industry that inspire me every day. The person who has influenced me the most is Elize Star (@elize_nails) as she encourages me to try nail art designs that are out of my comfort zone. I wouldn’t have started hand painting last summer without her support and that’s become a massive part of my nail journey. Elize is doing so well but also wants others to be great and succeed. She shares her knowledge wherever she can and without her lockdown nail challenges, I don’t think I would have pushed myself to create half of the nail designs that are in this feature today. @afterglow.bycarmen @afterglow.education

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OOPS…

DID

AGAIN!

Reviving the iconic era that brought us girl power and Gameboys, ‘90s Baby is a feel-good collection of 10 new shades that will Spice Up Your Life! From Hubba Bubba to Double Denim, its kaleidoscope of colours celebrates a time when our only worry was our Tamagotchi. And, while our MSN Messenger passwords may be long forgotten, these love-forever colours are as timeless as can be and the perfect transition from spring into summer. Visit thegelbottle.com to get your hands on the ‘90s Baby collection now and head to Instagram @the_gelbottle_inc to see the official launch video - it’s Pretty Fly!

How would you describe the ‘90s Baby collection? It’s our spring / summer collection featuring 10 new colours that are a fun and fresh take on the iconic decade of the ‘90s. From bright neon pops to gorgeous opaque creamy pastels, each colour is very different and unlike any other in our current range. I absolutely LOVE the exclusive freebies that we’ve created when you buy the full collection. The hot pink bumbag is a must-have accessory this season! We had so much fun creating the collection and launch campaign, we hope everyone loves it as much as we do! What was the inspiration behind the new collection? The ‘90s is having a huge resurgence at the moment. I think people are really craving the feeling of the light-hearted and fun vibes of those times. Khloe Kardashian’s Good American has just launched a collection of denim inspired by the decade… Paris Hilton is modelling for Lanvin… we’re all wearing scrunchies! There’s lots of positive nostalgia around and that was the mood I wanted to capture with the collection. It’s really feel-good and hopefully makes people smile.

Which is your favourite colour in the collection? I don’t think I could pick just one...These colours will seriously brighten up your customers manis! I love Carrie’s Cosmo because it’s the perfect pink. Central Perk is a pastel green that feels really fresh for spring and summer, and Double Denim is a vibrant and eye-catching pastel blue. I actually can’t choose one! I love Hubba Bubba too – it’s so unique to the TGB range. What I love most about the collection is that each colour works so well for the spring to summer transition, so the collection really is perfect now salons are reopening globally. And, finally, if you could go back and give ‘90s Daisy one piece of advice, what would it be? Be confident in your self expression and that starts with your nail colour choice!

THEGELBOTTLE.COM

DA I SY K A L N I N A , F O U N D E R & C E O

’90s Baby Collection Colour Highlights!

HUBBA BUBBA

CLUELESS

HUBBA BUBBA A bright pastel-neon coral that’s straight from a pick’n’mix stand. Equal parts sugar pink and tropical orange, Hubba Bubba is a sweet treat that pops on every hand.

CA R R I E ’ S C O S M O

CLUELESS We can’t give you Cher’s computer closet, but Clueless is totally the next best thing. A way cute opaque banana yellow, it’s inspired by the most iconic plaid twinset of the ‘90s.

DOUBLE DENIM Roll out the red carpet and channel your inner Britney and Justin* with Double Denim. A lightwash-inspired creamy baby blue, it gives nails a retro pastel pop. *Denim cowboy hat, optional.

DOUBLE DENIM

We couldn’t help but wonder, is this the perfect pink? Carrie’s Cosmo shakes up a mid-tone pink with a dash of cool undertones. Finished with an opaque twist, it’s best served chilled.

CA R R I E ’ S C O S M O

“These colours will seriously brighten up your customers manis!” DA I SY K A L N I N A , F O U N D E R & C E O

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST COLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT…

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owing to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry.

“With the impact of social media at an all-time high, nail art increasing in popularity and creating nails that are picture perfect, we need to give ourselves some grace and enjoy the process.” 58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

ay is here; one of my favourite months! I wanted to share one of the topics that arose in the Clawgasmic Nail Tech Frustrations series on our IGTV. One follower wrote: ‘Chan! My biggest frustration is people expecting me to do their nails quickly while also recreating Instagram nail looks. Help!’ I have definitely felt this pressure before, but please don’t rush yourself. If you are starting out in your nail journey, a full set of nails is going to take time and that is totally normal. Anything is daunting when you first begin, but with practice and confidence comes speed. Before you know it, elements of your mani will become second nature, so don’t stress – your timings will gradually come down. That being said, I want to touch on the importance of taking your time to achieve perfection. Art is incredible and it’s my favourite thing to do, but if your foundation isn’t correct, clients will return to you with enhancements that haven’t lasted, which costs you time and money to rectify. What’s more, the finished result will be nowhere near the standard it could be if you pay attention to all the details: • Prep the nail plate • File the nails correctly • Make sure they all match • Make sure no oil or cuticle is left on the nail to get optimum adhesion • Cure each layer correctly …and the list goes on! These aspects of a treatment are so important and if you’re doing them properly, they will take a reasonable amount of time. Quality over quantity!

how passionate you are about making the nails as perfect as possible. Practice on your friends or family members until your confidence grows. They’ll probably be more than willing to be your model! Never feel like you can’t say no to a client if a design is something you don’t want to create or you feel it is outside of your creative comfort zone. We all have our own strengths and it’s good to work on those. I admire people who can draw realistic cartoon characters on nails but I know it’s not my strongest area. I’ve said this to many clients in the past and have given them something that’s more my style. Remember – we all have our own super powers, so own yours! Talk to your clients and explain things to them, too. Encourage them to book in a longer appointment slot if they want nail art, and if they spring a design idea on you on a day when you don’t have time, just say so. Tell them you need a little while to figure it out and do your research so you can create it perfectly. Doing this does not devalue you in any way as a nail tech or professional. Asking for more time or a longer appointment slot is purely so you can be happy with what you create. I think the idea that things need to be done quickly actually needs to stop. To get a good set of nails done, the attention needs to be in the detail and carried on throughout the session. Our industry is constantly evolving. With the impact of social media at an all-time high, nail art increasing in popularity and creating nails that are picture perfect, we need to give ourselves some grace and enjoy the process. I hope this helps if you’ve ever felt this way.

When your foundation is complete, you can commence the artistry. Taking your time doesn’t make you any less of a tech; it shows

Chan x

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP-BY-STEP: NEONS & NEGATIVE SPACE Step 1 Apply gel polish base coat followed by two coats of a neutral shade, curing between each coat. Apply top coat and cure. Lightly buff the surface with a white block to create a matte finish and use a striping brush and white gel polish to paint a small rectangle towards the cuticle area. Keep the layer thin and cure. Step 2 Choose either a single colour, or paint a variety of coloured pigment shades on top of the rectangle to create an ombré look as shown.

Step 3 Paint a second rectangle down one side of the nail with white gel polish and cure. Apply the chosen pigments to this shape using a fluffy applicator brush. Step 4 Repeat the process on the remaining two sides of the nail. Apply top coat and buff over lightly with a white block using light pressure. Step 5 Using a black art gel or gel paint and a fine detailer brush, paint fine black lines to define the shapes as shown. Step 6 Apply chrome pigment on top of the cured black lines. Apply matte top coat and cure, then paint over the chrome areas with a glossy top coat for contrast.

TECH TALK

This month, I’d like to introduce you to Adelina Walker aka @hellobeautifulnailbar, a super talented nail tech and artist from Stoke-on-Trent. Adelina is so inspirational and I love how she has her own style of nail art and her designs are so intricate and detailed. It’s been lovely getting to know her over the past year. How did your journey into the nail industry begin? I’ve always been creative but had kept my nail look tidy and quite simple, with a block colour finish. When my daughter, Evelyn, was born, I didn’t want to paint my nails in the house so booked an appointment at a salon nearby. Gel polish was alien to me then, but after seeing the system in action I realised I wanted to learn how to do nails professionally. This was in 2018, and I enrolled at my local college two weeks later and it was the best spontaneous decision I’ve ever made. What are your favourite looks to create and what inspires you? The natural world provides so much inspiration and the best thing about it is that it’s so accessible! I love creating intricate designs; the more detail, the better. My favourite design is an

industrial metallic look using golds and silvers, and working with darker colours. What advice would you give to nail artists new to the industry? Be patient, work hard and practice as often as possible. We all started right at the bottom but your growth will come if you stay focused and aim to reach personal targets. Don’t compare your work to that of others. Instead, try to engage with and learn from other nail technicians. I also strongly recommend having a nail buddy to boost your confidence and give you extra support right at the beginning of your journey. What do you love most about being a nail technician? I go by the motto ‘do what you love and you won’t work a single day in your life’. The client experience is very important to me and the friendships that have blossomed from this are just as fulfilling as any of my other relationships. I can truly be myself with them and have been able to create strong bonds with amazing people. I also enjoy helping others in the nail industry and sharing my knowledge.

For a full nail art video tutorial of Chan’s tile design and to gain access to over 90 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

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NAILTALES

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INTERNATIONAL

Nail Spy Scratch’s KAT HILL explores local trends in the nail & beauty spheres in Greece …

Salon in the spotlight… Name: Niki Kalamara Business name: Salon de Paris Location: Pagrati, Athens

Niki Kalamara tends to the nails of her loyal client base from her salon near the centre of Athens. “From a young age, I always remember admiring anything related to the beauty industry, especially the nail sector,” Niki explains. “After finishing my studies, I gained my first qualifications and worked in several nail salons to gain more experience, until in 2017, my dream came true and I opened my own space.” In the salon, neutral nail looks are most popular. “Many clients opt for nude, pink and soft nail colours,” Nikki continues. “Oval, nude nail looks are in demand.” When asked about the difference between nail trends in Greece and the UK, Nikki reveals: “I don’t think there is much difference between Greek and British clients,” she smiles. “An abundance of information and inspiration can be found through the internet and social media. “From what I have noticed, most clients from all over the world tend to follow similar trends.” /salondeparisss @salondeparis_nails

Did you know? A food synonymous with Greece also makes for a top beauty ingredient. Greek yogurt has been applied to the face as a mask for centuries for soft, supple skin. When fresh, Greek yoghurt contains lactic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid, which helps dissolve dead skin cells to gently exfoliate and hydrate the skin. It’s even rumoured that iconic starlet, Audrey Hepburn, regularly applied it as part of her beauty routine.

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Brand watch:

PBI Beauty, Athens, Greece

Angelo Colledan, owner & CEO

PBI Beauty was established over 23 years ago in Athens and distributes brands including Jessica Cosmetics, Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Footlogix and Barbicide. “I started with one nail salon, but grew and expanded to 22 locations via franchising,” explains Angelo Colledan, owner & CEO of PBI Beauty. “When I first started out, there were very few professionals and even fewer brands in Greece. Now, Greece has an abundance of brands, technicians and education offerings.” Angelo turned his expertise to distribution because he was keen to share his passion. “PBI’s own brands include the Leave Your Mark gel polish line, Envy Eyes lash line and PBI Beauty Essentials, which is a range of salon essentials,” Angelo continues. “In Greece, I find that nail styles are kept quite classic. Even though nail techs in Greece strive for education and creativity, there is a lack of demand for extreme nail art. Due to lockdown, many nail technicians invested in online training, not only with nail techniques but for sterilisation practices.” Angelo notes a strong desire for Greek techs to compete in nail arenas. “There was an early boom where beauty exhibitions here would provide competitions frequently,” he reveals. “The opportunities to compete have waned, which left a thirst and no outlet here to support this.” www.pbibeauty.gr

Brand bestsellers

The top three shades in the Leave Your Mark gel polish range are Golozza 100368, Mykonos Blue 100273 and Wedding Veil 100469. “These shades are classic and a must-have for every technician!” smiles Angelo.

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NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H Get to know the names behind brands that are attracting attention across the nail scene… Eco Salon Supplies

After running her own home salon for five years, Zee Broomhall recognised a desire to use more sustainable products within her business, so created her own range. Eco Salon Supplies offers a vast portfolio including beauty necessaries made from bamboo instead of plastic, and reusable products.

“When aiming to be more sustainable in my own salon, I came across many barriers. I couldn’t get all the alternatives I wanted from one supplier and the costs were mounting up, so I sought to create a brand that could help supply and inspire people,” Zee reveals. Eco Salon Supplies has launched a subscription service, which supplies subscribers with eco-friendly alternatives every three months on a recurring basis. The boxes are matched to the buyer’s salon type and the size of the box is based on an average amount of clients per week. “Our ethos is to provide salons with sustainable alternatives to their everyday needs,” Zee continues. “We want to inspire professionals in the industry to make better choices and break down stereotypes surrounding eco salons – and we don’t want our customers to compromise on quality or high standards.” Since launching in November 2020, the reaction from the industry has been such that the company has started a podcast, REAL Salon Sustainability – Eco Salon Supplies, available on Spotify. Zee wanted the packaging to reflect the brand’s ethos, ensuring that all parcels are sent plastic-free and sustainably sourced cardboard and recycled paper is used. “We also reuse the packaging we receive our stock in,” reveals Dee. “Our long term goal is to put sustainability into beauty industry education.” www.ecosalonsupplies.co.uk

/ecosalonsupplies

@eco_salon_supplies

Gloss Beauty Treatments

Launched in February 2020, Ciaran Adam found herself using a lot of wax melts based on designer fragrances, and wondered if this concept could be translated into cuticle oil. After much research and planning, Gloss Beauty Treatments was born. The brand offers a range of cuticle oils with designer-inspired fragrances as well as fruity scents and boasts a hand balm, body oil, beard oil and hand lotion. “The aim is to bring a new line of luxury, handmade, fragranced products to the beauty industry. In particular to retail in salons, nail bars and home salons,” reveals Ciaran. Despite a great reception after the launch, Ciaran faced challenges due to the Covid-19 pandemic. “It has been difficult at times to evolve a brand while juggling home life,” Ciaran continues. “I have invested a lot of time into social media, which I was very new to at the beginning. However, I’m now using it for the business tool that it is.” For Ciaran, having her own brand is a dream come true as she gets to produce products that people love. “It gives me my own identity too when motherhood is all-consuming.” As for the future, Ciaran would love to continue to create new fragrances and product lines. “I would also love to make my products available worldwide,” she continues. “I have made the first step towards this with securing Elaine Williamson as the exclusive distributor for Australia and New Zealand. I am beyond excited about this development!” Gloss Beauty Treatments 62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@gloss_beauty_treatments

NAILSCENE BEAU Polish

Siána Scott launched the BEAU Polish nail colour range in 2019 after the brand vision came to her during a meditation in 2018. The former mobile nail technician qualified in 2017 and hopes to expand her range of colours and eventually ship worldwide. “My shades are bold and bright so I don’t offer nude colours. It’s simply not in my DNA and therefore I cannot translate them into my brand. I want to appeal to those who love bright colours and dare to stand out,” Siána reveals. “As the founder of BEAU Polish, it is my mission to make people feel as beautiful as I possibly can by offering a creative medium by which people can express themselves freely. I also believe that nail polish has no gender, no race, no class; it has no social bias and is therefore a blank canvas with no judgement.” All of Siána’s products are hand mixed, labelled and sealed by herself and a few helpful family members, meaning Siána is involved in every stage of the process. “The labelling and bow tying is usually the longest part of the process so when a batch gets made, the whole family chips in to help,” Siána comments. During the pandemic, Siána managed to increase her revenue substantially and the feedback has been extremely positive. The closure of trade shows and markets meant some of Siána’s revenue streams disappeared overnight, leaving Siána to shift her focus to other opportunities online. “The beauty of running a small business is the continuing lessons that are learned. I had to learn to be kinder to myself for letting a few things slip on occasion because there is a lot to do. “As I started to gain momentum and find my feet a little, things I previously found hard came a little easier, and the reward was learning something new about why people buy into my brand.” Having her own brand allows Siána to really take her business into a space that is true to her heart. “I love the challenge of figuring out how to do things and what works and what doesn’t. It’s also wonderfully refreshing to know that my hard work directly makes people happy.” www.beaupolish.co.uk

/BEAUPolishUK

@beaupolishuk

Gold Dust Designs

Francesca Sellars founded Gold Dust Designs in August 2020 with an aim to create a resin product range that met the needs of independent artists, techs and therapists in both small salons and home setups. “Everything I create is handmade and personal to my customers to meet their needs and colour schemes. Each item is created with love, passion and a personal touch to say thank you to such a great industry,” reveals Francesca. The current ‘Beauty Edit’ range features four handmade products, which can be personalised to any colour or design. These include the oval beauty tray, tool/brushes rest, beauty tiles and false eyelashes holder. All four items are versatile, not only for salon use but for personal use around the home too. “The Gold Dust Designs ethos is to make the everyday beautiful and to offer affordable, personal products to suit modern homes and salons,” added Francesca. The idea of the ‘Beauty Edit’ came about at the end of February after the launch of the oval beauty trays and rests. “I then decided to implement my coaster designs into a smaller, minimalist shape that could double as a beauty tile. Since then, the range has grown and I hope to continue to add to it,” Francesca reveals. “When launching this collection, I was unsure whether it would take off, as new resin artists and resin businesses are starting up daily. However, the response has been incredible. I now have orders from salons in all corners of the UK.” Francesca loves being able to watch her brand grow and become recognised online. It is also reassuring for her to see customers return time and time again. “I believe that my brand is authentic to me, I’m a one woman business and I love creating relationships with all my customers no matter how small their order.” In the future, Francesca hopes for the brand to branch out and have her own website store and to stock small gift shops and salons in the UK. /golddustdesignsshop

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AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT

Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

What’s Inside Matters. #ThisisLE

Dreaming in Color SUMMER 2021

COLLECTION

Make your dreams come true with the NEW Dreaming in Color Summer palette. Available in Hard Gels for an easy one-coat application and NEW P+ Gel Polish for under 10-minute soak-off removal*, both providing 3+ weeks wear. All Light Elegance products are responsibly researched, developed and manufactured in Redmond, Oregon, USA. *When using P+ QDbase, filing through the top coat is required.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS The FNP’s director of education, DONNA CLAYTON, shares views on existing & future education practice in the nail sector EDUCATION: DEFINED

s a business owner, I love nothing more than to plan my strategy for the year. This includes filling any educational gaps I may have that fulfil a need for my target market, or to simply enhance my knowledge or feed an interest. When searching for courses, we are welcomed with so many options, which can be overwhelming at times – but it’s invigorating, too! A multitude of courses are available to those looking for a new profession, career or to upskill. From the convenience of your phone, you can hop on and check out course offerings from education providers that suit both interests and skill sets. However, with so much choice, it’s hard to know where to start. It is a buyer’s market, right?

When talking about education in the UK, you may have heard of OFQUAL and usually in the context of discussing primary, secondary and college education. It is an independent government-approved auditing authority that ensures a balanced and fair grading system, with standards that are unilateral and adhered to among other duties. At the top of this industry sector lies Habia. Habia is the industry authority for the hair and beauty sectors and the only industry authority of its kind, so naturally it sits at the top of the hierarchy of organisations within education. Habia is the standard setting authority for this sector and right now the industry standards are being released after being in draft form and undergoing consultation and feedback from industry, during quarter one. You can find the current National Occupational Standards (NOS) at www.ukstandards.org.uk.

“The way in which we Wrong. It is an educator’s market, and here educate or receive is why; there is an abundance of industry professionals looking for the next ‘thing’ to solve education as we go The NOS is a critical aspect of education; their cashflow problems or give them that these standards are written by industry forth into the future professionals (salon owners, therapists, edge over another establishment and more competitively, the price they are willing to pay. technicians, stylists) detailing what should will be ever evolving; be expected from competent employees it should be in the field and practiced in a real working Here’s the thing; education has moved and environment. These public documents are morphed into something entirely different, and embraced yet available for anyone to view and download; that has only accelerated over 2020 into 2021, through lockdowns. There are many media via which structured.” solo therapists/technicians, salon owners, educators you can train in the modern world. The way in which we educate or receive education as we go forth into the future will be ever evolving; it should be embraced yet structured.

One of the most important things about education is the type of learning experience you receive. There are many media via which to train, and each has a point of difference. You will want to know if your course has been accredited or is regulated by OFQUAL before signing up. But, and it is a pretty big ‘but’, do you actually know the difference between an OFQUAL regulated qualification, an accredited qualification and a CPD course? All three are quite different in approach and outcome, and importantly, the outcome completely affects your insurance and your ability to make a successful claim should the worst occur. 66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

and colleges.

Awarding organisations (bodies) are the next section in that hierarchy under Habia. Organisations such as VTCT, City & Guilds, ITEC, CIBTAC and CIDESCO use the standardised course content of the NOS, which is disseminated into their own unique structures and implementation strategies. What is important to remember is that while they are very individualistic in their approach, the course curriculum content (NOS) remains exactly the same across all of them. These qualifications are part of the framework under OFQUAL and make up the formal qualifications you see in further education colleges and private centres. i.e., Level 2, Level 3 Nail Services in the award, certificate and diploma format.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST Each body audits the centres that provide courses in their name. This is performed at least twice per academic year. The body has the right to prevent certification if the internal and external audit proves that the centre is not satisfactory and will strike off a centre if it fails to improve with an improvement plan and support. CPD (continued professional development) is a great way to expand knowledge and keep skills up to date. CPD helps you stay on top of the latest developments in your area or investigate new areas that may interest you. CPD can also help with career development. For example, a further education lecturer who assesses formal qualifications via an awarding organisation (AO), must complete 30-hours of CPD pro rata per academic year to maintain their assessor’s status. Failing to do so could result in actions for the centre from the AO and invalid assessment judgements made. The CPD can be in a variety of formats, such as practical skills – both short and long courses, whole qualifications, seminars, educational visits… the list goes on. Equally, industry associations may also require their members to maintain a level of CPD per year to retain the membership and comply with the code of ethics they agreed to upon sign up.

“When searching for courses, it really How much CPD is required for arena both sit as equal, one helps if you set yourself accreditation membership in industry associations? is not favoured over the other nor identified some criteria before Associations may require their members as such. to maintain a level of continuing starting, so you do not One of the major drawbacks to the current professional development per year. They award points and often map out the system is that each company sets its own find any unhelpful hours that it takes each skill, such as four standards with some higher than others. This courses alongside hours equals four points. means that insurance brokers often do not insure other accreditors’ qualifications and can potential learners with an uninsurable qualification The one you have been waiting for… gold mines!” andleave having to seek alternative insurance, bolt-on’s Accreditation. This is where an insurance broker, supported by an underwriter, insures a course to run by the educator or training academy. Now, it is true that not that long ago we did not have this system; brand educational certificates were accepted by the insurance broker and we did not need accreditation, now you will struggle to get insured without it. What the accreditation system has brought is a sense of validation and the ‘rubber stamp’ seal of approval to all courses advertised and approved as such. It started off incredibly well. At the time of its inception, this accreditation system was a fantastic way to validate new course providers and legitimise their courses. This led to an incredibly successful boom in accredited courses with students from all over the country, sometimes the world, signing up for these courses because they were seeing it as a valid alternative. As the system proved a profitable one and a source of validation, particularly for those who could not attend more formal qualifications or where the NOS does not yet exist for the skill, the sector boomed. Training and the opportunity to be an independent training academy was there and welcomed. However, the unregulated part of the sector is an obstacle for professionals and newcomers alike. Each accreditation company holds its own unique criteria and standards, very few or neither directly correlates to the NOS. You will find a variation of courses available on the same subject, which differs from price-point, i.e., a basic manicure course that could be two hours or two days in length. Now, there are some amazing educators and academies that utilise the wonderful NOS resources that ensure their accredited courses match those criteria. However, then there are others with identical credentials that do not use these same materials to educate students, so it’s difficult to identify and compare. In the www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

or retrain at sometimes great expense. Other issues arise when a claim is made against the professional. Every insurance claim is scrutinised by the underwriters and loss adjuster, who must ensure that it was a professional’s original teaching or training of their skill, which caused them to make an error. The only standards in which they can compare any incidents come from NOS. Therefore, if the course is not deemed fit for purpose, the claimant/professional may become personally liable, the insurance will not pay out and they may need to pay from their own personal assets. With all this in mind, is it any wonder why we are in such disarray when it comes to training? So, what can you do? When searching for courses, it really helps if you set yourself some criteria before starting, so you do not find any unhelpful courses alongside potential gold mines! Ask questions of providers, check to make sure they are listed as current with the awarding organisation or accreditation company, ask if they are mapped out to the NOS, if it is an existing skill. Any provider worth their time will answer your questions without any qualms or hesitations. Right now you must take it upon yourself to check this information to protect your business and your clients. One of The FNP’s projects is to raise the standards in education and celebrate those who go above and beyond; help The FNP by joining as a supporter now and its membership when it launches. www.The-FNP.com For more information, visit: www.gov.uk/government/organisations/ofqual www.habia.org www.ukstandards.org.uk @the_fnp_

@the_fnp_

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COMPETITIONNEWS

Wearing the

crown ITION: COMPET n A co test eople where p t in take par blish ta es to order in cy a em supr lar a particu area.

Competition fever grips the nail industry from all four corners of the nail world. Here, ALEX FOX keeps an eye on emerging trends, champions & competition culture

Champion in the chair

Meet Olena Oezman, the winner of Nailympia Online’s Division 4 VIP 5-Shape Challenge 2021 Competition brief: Design 5 nails on one hand – sculpt in any artificial nail system. Two nails French (Russian almond & pipe), two art/design (stiletto & edge), one single colour of choice (coffin/ballerina). Judging: 10 judges were invited to judge 11 photos, a video and text for this category.

OLENA OEZMAN

Olena’s winning points: 307/340pts

Age – 38 years Location – Berlin, Germany Years in nails – 18 years Trained with - Elena Popova, Russia

I teach my students; professional thinking is the key to having a good reputation.

Why did you move into nail grooming? At the age of six or seven, all I dreamt about was painting nails. Right after the very first time I did my own nails, I went to the pharmacy to buy a nail file to reshape them. A hidden childhood dream of doing nails become my reality. What is it about nails that interested you? Everything! The topic is beyond deep; starting from knowledge about anatomy, up to the art of communication with people. When did you enter the industry? I applied for my first job as a nail tech without attending any courses, which, to be honest, was a crazy thing to do. I realised very quickly the importance of education. That was in 2002, and one year later I opened my own salon. Since then I’ve been investing a lot in my education!

Art on Nails (over 2 inches) by Olena Oezman

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Winning nails for the Division 4 trophy by Olena Oezman

How did you build your reputation? I always say ‘a professional is defined by their attitude’. This is something that my customers always noticed in me. Professional products, disinfection, no waiting time, no injuries and continuous education. This is also what

What do you love about the nail industry? The variety, possibilities and growth. I like that everyone can be different, I like that everyone can show their unique skills. There are no limits; there are only chances to grab. I love this industry; it gave me the opportunity to develop my personality and be ‘an inspiration’, as I’ve heard I am to many people. I love this industry because it presents the ability to connect. What’s your latest project? My absolute incredible, non-comparable, unique online academy. Describe an average day in your life… Another reason I love the nail profession is that every day is unique. I’m talking about every salon day, with up to 10 customers a day. An office day is filled with developing, creating, making decisions and working with my team. When I’m educating students, I naturally give my full attention to the class. I enjoy so much variety in my work. What essentials do you carry with you? My everyday purse kit is quite small, with the most important thing being my cuticle oil. However, my competition kit bag is of course much bigger. Once I forgot a dust brush and competed without it… I won, but since then, the dust brush is always in the kit ready. I use Olena Oezman products and Akzentz.

COMPETITIONNEWS

SNAPSHOT! The Canadian Nail Championship (CNC), organised by Long Nguyen, announced the winners of its cover competition during a Facebook online awards ceremony in March. The judging panel for the first CNC included Jeanette Ulriksen (Denmark), Tony Pham (UAE), David Hoang (USA), Long Nguyen (Canada), Johnny Tran (Canada), Liliya Saxon (Canada), Trinh Huyen (UK), Nick Tran (Australia), Tino Vo (USA), Tran Nam (Germany) and Alex Fox (UK).

Manicure Poster entry by Olena Oezman

From where do you find inspiration for your nail designs? As a structural person, it’s in architecture. What principles do you live by? Don’t assume that people think the same as you; don’t have expectations if you don’t want to be disappointed. If you reach your goals, it means you set them too low. Be kind and help animals. What are your goals? The online platform I’ve developed is quite unique, so I’m still improving it. I want to provide a level of education that’s not been seen before in the nail industry. What has the pandemic/lockdown taught you? In the face of difficulty in life, there are born chances. www.nailacademy-online.com /olenaoezman.nailacademy @olena_oezman

The winner of the cover competition judged by Alex Fox of Scratch magazine was Amy Nguyen – Malaysia

Alex Fox notes, “I was honoured and delighted to be asked to judge the CNC’s cover competition. The theme chosen (floral) is always a winner for nail artists as it affords so many avenues for interpretation, representation and expression. So, this theme meant I was not disappointed in the quality and variety of the work entered. There were very detailed, exciting and illuminating images to judge and the colour palettes displayed really grabbed my attention. I loved to see a lot of thinking outside of the box in both design and styling – everyone expressing their floral theme intuitively and individually. It was a joy to judge and explore. “My winner was chosen ultimately because it works really well as a cover as well as a marketing campaign. It’s high fashion, beautifully styled, emotive, delicate and tells a story – all at the same time. The nail designs are intricate and skilled, while the overall styling feels like a masterpiece of artistry to behold – the entire image spoke to me and had a definite and flawless flow.” www.canadiannailchampionship.com

NAILON GLOBAL SPRING 2021

What: Seven competitions; Gel Polish, Artistic Extreme, Extreme Shape, Poster, Perfect Almond, Bling-Bling, Mix Media Art Box Critieria: Each competition offers guidelines on what’s expected, how to approach it, a guide to photos required, a verification photo, prizes and a side bar letting you know how many days, hours and minutes are left to enter, the amount of competitors and the judges allocated. Winner of the Nailon Winter Cover Divisions: 4 – novice, professionals, expert and master. competition was by Hungarian , Closing date: Sunday 16 May 2021 Melinda Tamas @tamasmela Awards: Sunday 30 May 2021 Judges: Joanna Bandurska, Emese Koppanyi, Katalin Szikzai, Alex Fox, Valerie Ducharme, Martyna Bryzek, Paulina Pastuszak, Elena Popova. Kate Kruszynska, Magdalena Smorga, Katarzyna Rogus, Oxana Merkulova, David Fowler, Victoria Vacchio, Max Braga, Giada Stefania Sassu, Jovana Bacanac, Zrinka Vuksan, Madelene Wolf, Anna Popova, Sepideh Sadi, Aleksandra Sowa-Falarz, Pablo Rozz, Genki Itou, Elena Maltseva, Mahshid Sadat Hosseini, Molnár Mariann, Joanna Nawrocka. For more details & to enter, visit www.nailonglobal.com

@nailacademy.online

Nailympia Online 2nd Edition 2021… WATCH THIS SPACE

“A true competitor rises to meet a challenge. And this year it was Nailympia that rose to meet the challenge of this pandemic. Providing an online version of the Nailympia global locations has proven to be an exciting and successful addition that I’m so honoured to be part of.” Elaine T Watson, head judge, USA

VIRTUAL COMPETING

Elena Maltseva – a master of mixed media & nail artistry, comments on techs competing on the online circuit… “Participants need to take the quality of their photos very seriously. The result and the final score depend on how carefully and thoughtfully the photos are taken. I feel that when taking photos and exposing the angles of the nails, the participant should pay as close attention to the criteria as they do when creating the nails. Some angles may take focus from individual elements of the nail (for example, the free edge), so it’s important to make sure the picture has captured everything in focus, otherwise it’s impossible to judge effectively and correctly. “I would also draw attention to the harmonious presentation of the hand and finished nails. Whether or not the nail shapes are different, the general appearance and correspondence of the length of the nails to the fingers and to each other should be sustained as far as aesthetically possible. For example, in relation to the colour scheme that supports the overall appearance of the hand. Yes, each finger has its own task, but the aesthetics still matter.” A 3-hour nail masterclass with Elena Maltseva can be found on the Nailympia Facebook page

Step into your creative zone at Scratch’s featured competitions page www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/competitions SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69

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NAILCOMPETITION

The only awards for the UK nail industry Organiser, HELENA BIGGS, shares an update on this year’s event & introduces the prestigious panel of judges that will determine the Scratch Stars Awards winners 20/21…

fter the pandemic stopped play in 2020 – and prevented 88 finalists from being recognised at the infamous Scratch Stars Party, I am delighted to announce that we are at last able to reboot the competition process, and look to crown the winners of the UK nail industry’s biggest awards event.

Back in May 2020 when finalists across 17 categories were due to battle it out at the London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT) and be assessed by judges, Covid-19 had taken hold, forcing the judging to be moved to September. We all assumed that the virus would be under control by then – but as we all know, more lockdowns ensued and we had to press pause on the Scratch Stars Awards 2020. Now, with Boris’s roadmap offering up some direction, we are delighted that our finalists can finally compete a prestigious Scratch Star award later this month. While the Scratch Stars Party in London will go ahead on Sunday 25 July 2021 if the PM’s reopening roadmap sticks to plan and restrictions are fully lifted, we have decided to move the competition and judging stages online to prevent further delay.

Tickets for the Scratch Stars Party in London on 25 July are available now – and everyone’s invited! Visit www.scratchstarsparty2021.eventbrite.co.uk to purchase or scan here

The competition stage is a highly detailed process, with all categories requiring different submissions, instructions and judging expertise. As event organiser, I had to look at how realistic and safe it was for judges and finalists to travel from all over the UK to the LCBT to compete. Logistically, and with concerns over Covid-19 transmission through travel, the team and I thought it best to allow finalists to compete and be judged virtually. We have worked tirelessly to keep the competition as true to previous years as possible; the differences being that practical categories are being recorded over Zoom, mystery calls are taking place instead of mystery shops, and judges are assessing all entries and assets from home. It’s been quite a journey so far but a fabulous end is in sight with judges due to send over their scoresheets 1 June. After a long wait, the anticipation for the Scratch Stars Party is at an all-time high, with the industry super keen to not just see who scoops the stunning trophies – but to party, catch up with peers and let its hair down after a tumultuous year. We are overwhelmed at the enthusiasm and adaptability of our finalists and the support of such esteemed industry experts who have been assigned categories to judge. So who are the judges that will be making the all-important winner decisions? Let’s find out… 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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NAILCOMPETITION

THE ‘PRACTICAL’ CATEGORIES The following judges include expert educators put forward by the 20/21 sponsors, as well as guest judges and those that have achieved Scratch Stars Hall of Fame status (winning the same category three times). They will be assessing finalists in the below categories:

L&P Tech of the Year Gel Tech of the Year Polish & Paint Artist of the Year One Stroke Artist of the Year Mixed Media Artist of the Year Gel Polish Stylist of the Year Natural Nail Specialist of the Year Nail Stylist of the Year

JULIE-ANNE LARIVIÉRE representing Julie-Anne Larivière began her beauty career in 2007 as a make-up artist and quickly found, after spending a lot of time with a colleague who was a nail technician, that her true passion was nails. She started a successful nail business in Canada and, on moving to the UK in 2011, was keen to continue her success, launching her own salon, Sketched by J-A Nails. She fell in love with Salon System’s Gellux brand and works with the company as a nail expert to create nail designs for photo shoots, videos and marketing materials and represents the brand at special events. www.salonsystem.com @salonsystem @jal.nailartist

STELLA COX

representing

Stella trained as a beauty therapist in 1987 at Steiner Beauty School in London and has worked as a nail technician since, completing her first nail course in 1991. She has worked at Bio Sculpture for over 10 years and holds the role of head educator. Her passion for the nail industry and Bio Sculpture is infectious and she ensures that Bio Sculpture graduates finish training with the skills and knowledge to carve out their own successful career. Stella has also been awarded City & Guilds Level 3 PTLLS certificates as well as a VTCT Level 4 certificate in leading the internal quality assurance of assessment processes and practice. www.renewbeauty.co.uk @biosculpturegelgb @beautybystella

AGNES DULLO

representing

Agnes made the move from science teacher to nail technician 11 years ago. Her instant love for all things nails made her decision easy, and she has since worked as a mobile tech, been salon based and worked from her home. Agnes became an educator for INK London in 2016 and is an integral part of both the education and R&D teams. She began competing in 2017 and quickly claimed industry awards including 2018 & 19 Nailympia Top UK Tech and International Nail Master. www.inknails.com @inklondon @agnesdullo

DAISY KALNINA

representing

Daisy began her career in her own home, having been immersed in the nail industry since she was 15 years old. After years of owning a successful nail salon in Brighton, Sussex, she felt there was a gap in the market for a longer-lasting, creative gel polish range. A painter in her spare time, Daisy craved the opportunity to create art on nails in the same way that she did on canvases and sought longer-lasting results that meant fewer repairs and more return customers. So, she created her own brand! Daisy is the CEO of The Gel Bottle Inc, Peacci‘ and The Gel Bottle Academy, offering gel polish, nail polish and education to nail lovers around the world. Years later, her passion remains exactly the same: to offer nail products that deliver extraordinary results and encourage nail techs that deliver extraordinary creativity. www.thegelbottle.com @the_gelbottle_inc @daisykalnina

BELINDA PRICE

representing

Educator and previous Scratch Stars winner, Belinda Price, has been in the industry for almost three decades. She owned her salon, Nailspa for 17 years and now shares her knowledge and experience full time as OPI educator and capability co-ordinator. As a competition winner, trainer of competition winners and dedicated education and product specialist, she looks forward to judging the Scratch Stars Awards once again. www.opiuk.com @opinailsuk @belinda_opi

TINA BELL

representing

Tina’s love for nails started when she had her first manicure at the age of 16. She became a hand model for nail competitions and started learning the craft, going on to work in a salon and for EzFlow as an educator. She moved into teaching nails and beauty at a secondary school, working around her family life, before becoming a self-employed trainer. After discovering Halo Gel Polish and acquiring an ‘instant love’ for the brand, she contacted its distributor, Pure Nails, and offered technical advice for its future products. She continues to offer insight while leading education for the brand and running her own salon and training academy; Totally Polished. www.purenails.co @purenailsuk @tinabonbeena

Want to check out the finalists? Visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73

NAILCOMPETITION VIVIEN CARRICK

representing

Vivien (‘Viv’) has worked in the hair and beauty industry since 1998. A former celebrity hair extension stylist, she has worked on key figures for events such as the Oscars and travelled widely in her role. Through her travels, she became interested in the beauty industry and re-trained, gaining beauty and nail qualifications. Viv teaches the Level 3 nail course at LCBT and has taught all levels of beauty since 2011. Vivien is also qualified to offer Level 4 aesthetics, including micro-needling, chemical peeling and blemish removal. www.lcbt.co.uk @thelcbt @vivcarrick

PAULINA ZDRADA Paulina has worked in Hall of the nail industry for over a Fame guest decade and her passion for the judge craft, the people and the lift it proffers grows year on year. In October 2013, she came across the Crystal Nails brand and worked her way to absolute master educator status. Paulina is now owner of The Nail Lab Salon & Academy. She believes that anyone can achieve their goals with the right training and her achievements include six Scratch Stars Awards, a Great Scratch Shoot Out win and numerous trade show competition wins. She entered the Scratch Stars Hall of Fame owing to three wins in the Gel Tech of the Year category. @the.nail.lab.uk @paulina.zdrada

NATALIYA AL-TA’AI

representing

Nataliya’s career started over 16 years ago, when she trained in Beauty Therapy and Aromatherapy at Mary Reid International School of Beauty in Edinburgh. She then went on to train with CND™, attending International Bootcamp in 2011. After being awarded a gold PHAB Standard (now PHAB Service Star) that same year, she then qualified as a Full Systems CND™ education ambassador in 2013. Nataliya has been a CND™ education ambassador for 10 years, part of Global Team CND™ for seven years and now holds the position of CND™ EMEA education manager. Her signature five-point polish method is taught in CND™ classes all over the world, and she is championed by the brand for being instrumental in equipping techs and fellow educators with the tools to succeed in the nail sector. www.sweetsquared.com @sweetsquared.nails @nataliya_altaai_cnd_emea

representing

ANNA LEE

Anna Lee initially enrolled on a part time manicure and pedicure course at her local college to ‘find something to do’. Never for a second did she ever think that 16 years later, she would be selected to be a part of the prestigious team of education ambassadors for CND™. In that first year, Anna also received special recognition, winning the Services to the Nail Professional award from Sweet Squared, representing her incredible work as an education ambassador and mentor. In 2014, she was honoured with the Shooting Star accolade at the Scratch Stars Awards for her contribution to the nail industry and in 2015 and 2018, she took home the Scratch Stars Educator of Year and Services to the Nail Industry awards. All three awards celebrate Anna’s achievement in supporting students on their journey to becoming beauty industry professionals. www.sweetsquared.com @sweetsquared.nails @annaleecnd

JUNE GILBERT

June is a nail artist and educator with 26 years’ experience in the nail and beauty sector. She has been a senior educator for Magpie Beauty for four years and shares her expertise across Liverpool, offering certified and ABT accredited masterclasses and online courses. June works from a cabin in her garden and is very excited to be representing Magpie Beauty as a Scratch Stars Awards judge. www.magpiebeauty.co.uk @magpie_beauty @junegilbert_nailartist

SAM BIDDLE

Sam Biddle has been in the Guest nail industry since 1999 and is judge a renowned educator and nail artist. She teaches nail art and helps to build confidence in budding nailists by mentoring them with business strategies. Sam is an international judge and competition winner, and has won numerous awards, including the Scratch Stars Industry Innovator title. Having travelled the world teaching nail art, Sam pioneered her online mentoring membership in 2013, alongside coaching a competition team. She boasts a huge social media presence and a number of successful online series; Tech Talk Tuesdays, Nail Art At Night and The Mel & Sam Show. A published author, Sam’s aim is to celebrate the creative part of every nail pro. During lockdown, Sam launched The Inspired Space, bringing nail educators together who wished to provide online courses. An ambassador for the Orly brand since 2021, Sam has also been a salon owner and global ambassador for EzFlow. www.beinspired.online @sambiddle_inspired

GEMMA LAMBERT-LEWIS Multi award-winning nail artist, Gemma Lambert-Lewis, has been a nail technician since 1997 and won over 60 trophies in competitions worldwide, including three Scratch Star Awards – and the Scratch Stars Services To The Nail Industry title in 2016. Gemma has been involved in all areas of the industry, from working as a mobile tech to renting a table, managing and owning a salon and as an educator and college lecturer. She founded The Nail Team, training/education team and product house, and boasts over 40,000 YouTube subscribers. Gemma is dedicated to helping nail techs achieve their goals and elevate skills. www.thenailteam.com @the.nail.team @gemmalambert

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representing

Guest judge a

NAILCOMPETITION HAZEL DIXON Hazel has been a nail Hall of artist for over 15 years and Fame guest has extensive experience in all judge aspects of nail treatments, with a particular passion for nail art designs. She has won over 64 competition awards to date including the prestigious Nail Professional of the Year award 2014 & 2016, International Nail Art Champion and UK Top Tech four times and Nailympia Art Winner of Winners award twice. In 2015, she was honoured with the Scratch Stars Shooting Star and is in the Scratch Stars Hall of Fame twice for her three consecutive wins in the Mixed Media Artist of the Year and Nail Stylist of the Year categories. Hazel’s CV includes a PTTLS Level 4 teaching qualification, Level 3 NVQ for Nail Treatments and multiple educator titles for brands including Akzentz and Kupa. She is an international independent educator and consultant as well as a salon and independent training academy owner and official UK Akzentz distributor. Hazel writes all her own course material to ensure the high standards she wants for her students are met and has 10 independent training academies and educators across the UK. In 2018, Hazel launched her own product range, HD Professional Nail Systems. www.hazeldixonnails.com @hazeldixon

THE BUSINESS, MEDIA & SPECIAL AWARD CATEGORIES Lending their knowledge to our remaining categories are the likes of industry specialists and representatives from industry bodies. Each will be assigned up to two categories from the below list to assess in order to determine a winner in each:

Educator of the Year Nail Salon of the Year Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year Nail Team of the Year Mobile Nailist of the Year Session Stylist of the Year Social Media Star of the Year Best UK Nail Vlogger/Blogger

Scratch magazine will also be awarding Shooting Star, Shining Star and Lifetime Achievement awards at the Scratch Stars Party on 25 July.

LEIGHTON DENNY MBE Leighton Denny MBE is a leading expert and an Guest internationally recognised judge industry figure. He founded the multi-award winning Leighton Denny Expert Nails (LDEN) and Sun Believable tanning products. He began his journey as a forklift truck driver in Bradford, but quickly progressed to build an empire of appointed salons worldwide, consulting with clients about their nail issues and problems while doing countless treatments. He has won over 60 industry awards including a PHAB Standard (now PHAB Service Star) in 2013, which recognises a qualified level of excellence in the Performance of Hair & Beauty. The LDEN brand launched in 2005 and Leighton was presented the title of MBE in 2015 by the Queen for achievements within the nail and beauty industry. Leighton’s book, ‘How I Nailed It’, became a best-seller and in June 2020, Leighton returned to the helm of his namesake brand following a five-year break, He is focused on innovation, on education, on spearheading new product development and shaking up the nail market. www.ld-boutique.com @leighton_denny

TAMMY KOSLOWSKI

representing

Tammy Koslowski, aka the ‘NAFIA NailBoss’, has experienced many aspects of the industry in the past nine years; from being a session manicurist for huge brands to hosting pop-up nail bars and creating a range of nail products that were stocked Hall of by Urban Outfitters and ASOS. Fame guest Her cult nail destination, NAF! Salon, judge received the Scratch Star for Nail Salon of the Year in 2017 & 2019 and Social Media Star award in 2017, 2018 & 2019, entering the Hall of Fame for this category. Tammy is passionate about creating meaningful career paths in the beauty industry, community over competition & creating gorgeous products that benefit both clients and nail techs. She spearheaded the launch of NAF! Stuff nail care products – available to consumers, and to fellow nail techs to retail. www.nafstuff.com @nafstuff

ERYCA FREEMANTLE KYM MOODY

representing

Kym has worked in the nail industry for over 30 years, and as an educator for Hazel Dixon Nail Artist & Academy for the past two years. She was part of the Scratch Stars award-winning Nail Team of the Year 2018 and enjoys delivering courses for beginners in manicure, pedicure, L&P, gel and nail art at Thetford and in Hertfordshire. Kym is also part of the UK KUPA education team and has assisted Marian Newman and worked as a salon owner. She gained a CND™ masters NVQ in both beauty and nails Level 3 and PTTLS teaching qualification, which led to partnering with a successful training academy to deliver NVQ level 2/3 beauty and nails. www.hazeldixonnails.com @kymmoody

Global beauty strategist Described by Forbes magazine as ‘the woman to know for diverse beauty’, Eryca Freemantle is a global beauty strategist on a mission. She aims to impact thousands of lives by tapping into mental, emotional health and wellbeing to help them build confidence and resilience in business. With over 30 years’ experience in beauty, former make-up artist Eryca has played a key role in influencing the make-up, nails, health, and wellbeing arenas to rethink their strategies on inclusion; her most notable campaign being the creation of ‘Embracing All Tones of Women’. E.A.T.O.W’s world mission is to show individuals the possibilities when faced with global exposure. www.eatow.co.uk @eatowglobal @erycafreemantle

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NAILCOMPETITION LESLEY BLAIR Chair & CEO of BABTAC & CIBTAC Lesley Blair was appointed chair at BABTAC & CIBTAC in January 2018 after a six-year stint on its council and 17 years as a CIBTAC examiner. Her mission is to ensure that our industry continually raises its level of professionalism while championing fit-for-purpose qualifications. Lesley’s determination and dedication to the beauty sector saw her lead the charge to ‘Bring Beauty Back Safely’ during the pandemic and she has worked tirelessly with colleagues, industry bodies, competitors and government in order to allow close-contact services to resume safely. She was also at the forefront of compiling BABTAC’s Back to Work Guidelines while provide feedback and considerations to government on their own formal policies. Lesley is also a Beauty Backed trustee and holds qualifications from CIBTAC, ITEC, IHBC and City & Guilds including Level 4 advanced modalities. She holds both teaching, assessor and expert witness qualifications and continues to spend time where possible as a CIBTAC Examiner. www.babtac.com @babtac

IAN ARCHBOLD Show director, Olympia Beauty & Olympia Beauty Online Store Ian organises and runs one of the UK’s biggest trade beauty exhibitions, Olympia Beauty, which he established with his business partner in 2005. He travels to trade exhibitions all over the world when possible to seek out new and exciting nail and beauty companies and oversees all competitions at the event. In 2020, Ian oversaw the launch of the Olympia Beauty Online Store, offering professionals the opportunity to purchase products to suit the needs of their day-to-day work on a 24/7 basis. On Valentine’s Day 2021, Ian and his team responded to pros missing trade shows with a virtual event – Olympia Beauty Spring – featuring offers from brands and education resources online until 31 May. www.olympiabeauty.co.uk @olympiabeautyuk @ian_archbold

SUE DAVIES JACQUI O’SULLIVAN Esteemed educator & industry expert Jacqueline is highly creative and a Scratch Stars Award winner for Services to the Nail Industry. Jacqui has proven teaching and motivational expertise and vast experience delivering first class training and assessments in nail technology, customer care, nail art and procedures within high pressure settings. Jacqui holds a BA(Hons) degree in Education and is involved in judging numerous national and international nail competitions including Nailympia and WorldSkills, the biggest vocational education and skills excellence event in the world. She has over 25 years’ experience in the nail industry and has worked with a number of awarding bodies within the further education sector. Jacqueline has also worked with a number of industry brands during her career and helped develop private training courses and product development. @jacqui0s

Deputy chair & director of information, The FNP Sue is a nail and beauty veteran of 18 years, having worked within trade association management and international competition management with many years as a judge and educator. Sue is a Scratch Stars award-winning salon owner, writer and recognised industry advocate. She scooped the Scratch Stars Award for Services to the Nail Industry in 2017. As deputy chair of The FNP, she supports nail professionals with information and is soon to launch the Inspiring Salon Professionals podcast, covering everything from starting your career to opening your first salon. www.the-fnp.com @the_fnp_ @_sue_davies

NERGISH WADIA-AUSTIN VICTORIA BROWNLIE Director of policy & public affairs at the National Hair & Beauty Federation Since joining the NHBF, Victoria she has been instrumental in securing vital financial support and relief throughout the pandemic as well as the reopening of the hair and beauty sector across all four nations of the UK. With more than a decade of experience influencing government policy and lobbying on a number of issues, Victoria finds herself immersed in the diverse, enterprising, positive and bold hair and beauty industries and enjoys championing those within it. She helped to secure the higher rate of grant funding for personal care businesses, the extension of SEISS and changes to the eligibility criteria for additional restrictions grants. Victoria works with governments in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland to secure a long term recovery post-Covid-19 for our industry, focusing on issues such as tax reform, wage rates, sustainability, regulation and the future of the sector in terms of apprenticeships. www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial @victoria.brownlie

The Scratch Stars Awards 20/21 is sposored The Scratch Stars Awards 20/21 is sponsored by: by:

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Founder, PHAB Service Stars Nergish Wadia-Austin is one of the most respected business trainers in the nail, spa and beauty world. She prides herself on swiftly teaching salon professionals how to at least double their earnings without selling anything. Having successfully run one of the largest and busiest salons and spas in the world at Harrods, her last job before she set up her training business worldwide was as area manager of 24 spas, salons, and male grooming businesses in Central London. Nergish has been part of this vibrant industry for over 40 years, travelling around the world consulting, training and speaking publicly at many of the world’s major industry events. Based in London, UK, she offers her training and services to the best salons, spas and barbershops via her website, hairandbeautyexpert.com and is founder of PHAB Service Stars, recognising excellence in the hair and beauty sectors. www.phabservicestars.com @phabservicestars @nergishwadiaaustin

NAILCOMPETITION NINA TAYLOR Specialist model, brand ambassador & consultant, TV presenter & beauty writer Nina Taylor is regarded internationally as the most successful hand and body model, boasting supermodel status. Her £2million insured assets have appeared in some of the most iconic global advertising campaigns. As a brand ambassador, Nina shares her expertise in nailcare and beauty to TV audiences worldwide; and has also received further recognition as beauty judge, public speaker and magazine columnist. @ninataylorofficial

KATE SHAPLAND Beauty writer & founder, Legology A beauty writer for 25 years, Kate Shapland is passionate about leg care, believing that cellulite is often the symptom of a lazy lymph and best addressed with an integrated approach that includes daily stimulating massage. She developed Legology, a dedicated leg care brand with an aim to create a cohesive topical approach to optimise the lymph and lighten the legs, improving their overall beauty and wellbeing. www.legology.co.uk @legologyofficial @kateshaplandme

SUSAN ROUTLEDGE

MILLIE KENDALL MBE CEO, British Beauty Council Retail maven, brand creator and CEO of the British Beauty Council, Millie Kendall MBE has been instrumental in the success of cult brands including Shu Uemura, Aveda, Tweezerman, L’Occitane and Ruby & Millie, which she launched with Ruby Hammer in 1998. Having worked with the UK’s leading retailers, Millie has been creating and marketing beauty brands for the past 30 years. Millie was awarded an MBE in 2007 for her services to the cosmetic industry. Millie has also collaborated with beauty journalists and Vogue beauty editors such as Anna-Marie Solowij to launch concepts like BeautyMART, a new approach to beauty retail. In 2015 alongside Solowij, Millie launched PR company, BRANDstand Communications offering services from business planning and strategy to retail launch, PR and marketing. In 2018, alongside Anna-Marie Solowij and Kate Shapland, Millie founded the British Beauty Council, a non-profit organisation that aims to support a successful, innovative, and inclusive British beauty industry and has been instrumental in informing the industry of changes and results throughout the Covid-19 pandemic. www.britishbeautycouncil.com @britishbeautycouncil @milliekendall

MARIAN NEWMAN BEM Chair, The FNP Forensic scientist turned nail guru, Marian is a nail veteran of 30+ years and has worked in almost every area of the industry, from running a salon and taking educator status to acting as a nail consultant for some of the largest nail companies in the UK. She has been involved in the development of vocational standards and written definitive guides for budding nail practitioners. Marian is renowned for her fashion-forward nail styling and session work and contributions to nail education and standards, and is author of seven textbooks including The Complete Nail Technician. Marian is sought after for her expertise as a judge for magazine and competitions including Nailympia and was awarded the Scratch Star for Services to the Nail Industry in 2013. She pioneered a course with Mastered to help progress careers in the session world and is on the advisory board of the British Beauty Council. Marian has been awarded the British Empire Medal for ‘Services to the industry during Covid-19’. www.the-fnp.com / www.mariannewmannails.com @the_fnp_ @mariannewman

Salon expert, speaker, author & consultant Susan is a sought after salon business consultant, speaker and author of The Little Book of Client Retention and the Salon Success Freedom online business programme. She has over 30 years’ business experience in beauty, spa and medical aesthetics and specialises in effectively finding hidden, untapped revenue streams and profitable benefits for businesses. A trusted standards advisor to HABIA, local authorities and colleges and a national awards judge, Susan launched the Beauty Directors Club to support salons, spas and clinics. She is a member of numerous beauty industry steering groups and judging panels. www.susanroutledge.com @susan_routledge

RIA-JAINE LINCOLN Founder, The Beauty Accountant Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner/founder of The Beauty Accountant, Ria began her journey in the beauty industry on a part-time basis, soon noticing that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk @thebeautyaccountant_uk @ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty

JOSEPHINE WACKETT Beauty therapy & spa industry expert Following successful experience managing and teaching in the beauty therapy and spa sectors worldwide, Josephine is committed to raising standards. She has examined at more than 150 colleges for both CIDESCO and previously CIBTAC, in 37 countries and lectured at conferences and presented workshops. Josephine was a launch consultant for school establishments and served as CIDESCO’s board member for education, 20042016. Her wide information and expertise is sought by beauty therapy and spa industry bodies globally and she was principal of a large training school in central London for almost 30 years .

scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars

#scratchstars

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Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

How to grow your business with apprenticeships

Director of quality & standards, Caroline Larissey

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Caroline Larissey as director of quality & standards, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-for-profit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

or many businesses, taking on an apprentice has understandably taken a back seat during the past year. However, with salons reopening, taking on an apprentice may provide a much-needed boost for your business. Government figures show that a staggering 78% of employers reported improved productivity after introducing an apprenticeship scheme, while 86% of employers said apprenticeships helped them develop skills relevant to their organisation and 74% said they had helped them improve the quality of their product or service.

Cost-effective Hiring an apprentice is also a cost-effective way to support the development of new talent in your business. Depending on your business size and eligibility, most apprenticeship training costs are either fully or partially funded by the government, helping you to upskill your team on a budget. Find out if any additional post-lockdown support is available across the four nations via www.nhbf.co.uk/apprentices

What’s available? Hair and beauty apprenticeships are available at Levels 2 and 3. In Wales only they are also available at Level 4. Apprenticeships typically last between one and two years for each level studied and anyone over the age of 16 can become an apprentice, including existing employees. In some cases, there is an upper age limit, for example, in Northern Ireland.

Agreements or deeds

www.nhbf.co.uk /nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

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The law says you must sign an apprenticeship agreement (England and Wales) or deed of apprenticeship (Scotland and Northern Ireland) with your apprentice. The agreement or deed must set out the details of the apprenticeship including how long the employment will last, what training they will receive, and what qualifications they are working towards. This will ensure you both know what to expect from each other and will have an agreed document to refer to in the case of any queries or disagreements during the apprenticeship.

You must also pay your apprentice the correct apprenticeship rate or national minimum wage rate. Remember that an apprentice over the age of 19, who is in the second year of their apprenticeship, must be paid the age-appropriate national minimum wage or national living wage. Find out more at www.nhbf.co.uk/nmw-rise

Designed by employers Apprenticeships are an excellent way to grow your own loyal workforce to suit the requirements and culture of your business. They are designed by employers, so reflect the relevant knowledge, skills and behaviours that your business needs. In addition, younger apprentices may be familiar with new technologies such as social media; or if they are older, they may have other relevant skills and experience to offer. Whether the apprentice is a school leaver or someone looking to change their career path, it’s a fabulous way to add new talent to your team.

England: Traineeships Traineeships in England help 16-to-24-year-olds, or 25-year-olds with an education, health and care (EHC) plan, get ready for an apprenticeship or job if they don’t yet have the appropriate skills or experience to start one. The traineeship is free to your business, but you may support trainees with expenses such as transport and meals. The Budget announced in March also included incentive payments for businesses in England that take on apprentices. The figure will double to £3,000 and an additional £126 million will be provided for traineeships in England. Find out more via www.nhbf.co.uk/traineeships-England

Support from the NHBF NHBF members benefit from: • Free information and advice about apprenticeships and traineeships from the membership team, 9am-5pm, Monday-Friday (01234 831965). • Legal helpline to help with apprenticeship/traineeship issues, available 24/7: www.nhbf.co.uk/legal-advice • Free apprenticeship agreements/deeds: www.nhbf.co.uk/apprentice-agreements

SOLO BEAUTY WORKINGTON, CUMBRIA There’s nothing more rewarding than helping to achieve the vision and dreams of a successful business. Working with Amelia Wilson Interiors on the Solo Beauty project gave us the opportunity to showcase some of our ﬁnest furniture. Owner Kerry Hayston chose the REM Dream Pedispas, Florence Nail Bars and Futura Seating for her stunning Workington Beauty Salon.

T: 01282 619 977 E: SALES@REM.CO.UK W: WWW.REM.CO.UK

NAILTECHTOOLS

Focus on:

Files & Buffers

Get to grips with what makes a great file & buffer as KAT HILL takes a closer look at the key players in your tool kit…

s any nail professional knows, files and buffers are an integral part of any nail service. Used to shape and refine both natural and artificial nails, a plethora of choice is available in terms of shapes, styles and grits – but have you ever considered what components make a great file?

Many variations in material and shape are available, but generally speaking files and buffers feature an abrasive adhered to a backing and attached to a core. The difference in grit is crucial for the file’s job. “Using the correct file should feel like the file is doing the work Jaz Moger and you are just there to guide it,” enthuses Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert and owner of Paint by Jaz.

Sarah Marr

As with any tool in a technician’s kit, the incorrect use of a file or its grit can do more harm than good. “Using the correct file is important to not only maintain the integrity of the product but also to avoid damage to the natural nail and surrounding skin,” states Light Elegance education ambassador, Sarah Marr.

“Damage can be caused by over-filing the natural nail before any nail products have been applied,” agrees Katie Barnes, award-winning educator and owner of Katie Barnes Tool Range. “Over-filing the natural nail is one of the most common causes of nail damage, including Katie Barnes thinning the nail plate and causing separation. This can cause discomfort to your client and make the nail more prone to infections.” As the correct file is key to a good nail finish, service longevity and client comfort alike, get to grip with different grits, as well as how to care for these incredibly important kit must-haves…

FIRST THING!

“Don’t forget to prepare the edge of your files to remove sharpness and keep your client safe,” Darcy Olin, head Darcy Olin educator and LEU dean of students at Light Elegance. To do so, run an old file along the edges of your new file to take away any sharp edges. 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The core

Lecenté Nail Files 180/240-grit £3.50 + VAT (5pk) www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

“Nail files contain three main components: the abrasive, the material the abrasive attaches to (the backing), and the core to which the material is attached,” states Youri Vaisse, general manager of Madam Glam. The core can vary in its material. The most common is plastic, while some are constructed of metal, wood or foam. “Most boards have thin pieces of plastic in the middle,” continues Youri Vaisse. “The abrasive-coated surface is then attached to the plastic core, which makes it strong and rigid. Cushioned files or buffers have layers of foam or cushion attached to both sides of the plastic.” Youri Vaisse

“It is important to invest in a file with a stable core, which is usually plastic,” states Katie Barnes. “It can also be beneficial to invest in disposable files with a metal core, as this offers a firmer and less flexible result.”

Magdalena Sawica

In contrast, foam-based buffers and files are less rigid. “The ‘sponge’ is a shock-absorbing element; each move will be smooth and will smooth out unevenness,” states Magdalena Sawica, Indigo Nails educator. “The padded design of the CND™ Boomerang Padded File and Koala Buffer are soft and spongy, which hug the nail shape, eliminating flat spots and providing more comfort for the user,” adds CND™ education ambassador, Susan McGirl.

Susan McGirl

CND™ Koala Buffer 240/1200-grit £7.95 + VAT (10pk) www.sweetsquared.com

NAILTECHTOOLS

Imag e courtesy of Light Ele g a

The backing

nce ww

w. sw e

re om

OPI Edge File in White 240-grit £1.70 + VAT www.opiuk.com

are made from thermal-tempered glass that has been chemically-etched to create an abrasive surface ideal for the natural nail. “I find that glass files are good for shaping, rather than removing length,” states Jaz Moger. These files can be washed between use, too.

The abrasive

The component crucial to a file or buffer’s role at the nail desk is the abrasive. Traditional files utilise the common gemstone, garnet, and, while still available, modernisation means other materials are often used. Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician identifies silicon carbide as a key substance: “It is a synthetic crystal composition. It is very hard and jagged. It also has the characteristic of losing little bits that leave behind a fresh, jagged edge.”

Mundo File & Tool Disinfectant Spray £6.95 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk

Metal – some professionals prefer to use a more rigid file, especially when refining enhancements. Metal files are often made from stainless steel, so can be efficiently cleaned. Reusable metal files are also available. They are paired with a self-adhesive grit paper, which is applied to the metal core. This means the grit can be easily swapped and disposed of between clients.

Silicon carbide can also see a zinc stearate coating. “The coating acts as a lubricant to make filing smoother and quicker. It also prevents dust from building up between the particles and blunting the file.” Finally, aluminium oxide can be used. “This adhesive can be coloured. It is less jagged so therefore less harsh.” Cuccio Naturalé Stainless Steel Nail File Pro Pack £12.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk

Mylar –“INK London’s Signature Miracle Files are made entirely from Mylar giving them durability,” enthuses Simone Radley, INK London educator. “You can scrub Simone Radley them with soap and water, as well as fully submerge in disinfectant solution.”

Salon System Nail+File Cleansing Spray £4.25 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

KNOW YOUR ORDER

“Work from the lowest grit up to the highest grit,” advises Katie Barnes. “If buffing to a shine, follow the same routine. This ensures that all the file lines are in the same direction and scratches are not seen on the surface.”

Glass – also known as crystal files, these

Astonishing Metal File £7.82 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Other material used for manufacturing files can include:

Peacci‘ Shape Nail File £5 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

ADDITIONAL OPTIONS

et sq

This is the material on which the Light Elegance Foamie File 180/280-grit abrasive is attached. In The Complete £34.45 + VAT (20pk) Nail Technician, Marian Newman www.sweetsquared.com highlights five common options: 1. Paper – has a short life and cannot be made wet. 2. Waterproof paper – has an oil-based resin coating that lengthens its life and allows it to be immersed for short periods but will soon break down. 3. Mylar – a trade name for a specific polyester material. It is washable, can be immersed and is durable. 4. Cloth – usually cotton, this has a cost implication but is long lasting. 5. Foam – quite expensive but durable and immersible. The abrasive is sprayed directly onto the foam.

INK London Signature Miracle File 180-grit £7.50 + VAT (10pk) www.inknails.com

DID YOU KNOW…?

Some brands colour code the core of the files to help the nail professional identify the grit number at just a glance.

Crystal Nail Xtreme Half Moon Files £1.65 inc VAT each www.crystalnails4u.co.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 81

NAILTECHTOOLS

FOCUS ON: GRIT

The numerical system used to identify files and buffers indicates its use within a service. “It is measured by the amount of grit that makes the abrasive on an area of one square inch,” explains Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician.

SELECTING YOUR SHAPES

There is a huge variety of file shapes and sizes available. Selecting your ideal shape will be down to personal preference and the job at hand. “Different types of nail files are designed for different uses,” agrees Youri Vaisse, general manager of Madam Glam. “It is important to select the right one.”

Simply put, the higher the grit number, the more particles are present and, therefore, the finer the abrasiveness of the nail file. The lower the number, the coarser the file, as there are less particles present.

Straight – one of the most common shapes, this features two straight lengths and rounded or squared ends. “Straight files are perfect for shaping the free edge,” explains Jane Dickinson, director at Cuccio UK.

Marian Newman

Easy to spot, most brands print the grit grade on one or both sides of the file. Some files have two grits: a coarser side to shape and a finer side to finish. For example, this will often be labelled as ‘100/180’ – denoting the difference in grits.

Tine Bell

When selecting the right grit for the job, you should take into consideration your chosen brand’s recommendation, as well as the product you are using, states Tina Bell, head of education for Pure Nails. “If you’re using a softer product, you don’t need to use such a harsh grit.”

Jane Dickinson

“The Pro Gel files are all straight files to ensure even filing practices and also so that you can use every inch of the file without wasting it,” adds Alex Bates, The Pro Gel founder.

Alex Bates

The Pro Gel Natural Nail File 220/240-grit £4.50 + VAT (10pk) www.theprogel.com

“Micro-cracks can be caused in liquid & powder enhancements if you use a file that is tougher than 180-grit before the product is fully cured,” adds Sarah Marr. “180-grit is perfect for refining freshly applied liquid & powder and gel products.” The most common grit ranges include: • 80 – 100: “100-grit can be used on all enhancement products when removing bulk, removal or rebalancing,” states Tina Bell. • 150 – 180: “This grit is best to shape extensions of medium thickness and to shape the free edge of toenails, which are thicker than fingernails,” explains Katie Barnes.

NSI Dura Files 150-grit from £4.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Boomerang – may also be referred to as ‘curved’ or ‘banana’, this file features two parallel curved lengths.

Halo Elite Black Boomerang File 100/180-grit £3.36 + VAT (5pk) www.purenails.co/stockists

Half-moon – this file features one straight side and one curved. A half-moon file with a curved edge is ideal for filing around the cuticle area on an enhancement.

• 180 – 240: “These are ideal for natural nails: a fine-grit file is gentle yet effective,” explains Katie. Indigo Nails Lab Disposable Nail File Moon Soft 180/240-grit £19.60 inc VAT (50pk) www.indigo-nails.co.uk

KB 2 Way Nail File 240/240-grit £24.99 + VAT (15pk) www.katiebarnesacademy.com

• 300 – 600: “This range is less common but is used for precise levelling of the surface of enhancement product and for gentle mattifying of natural nails before a classic manicure treatment,” states Magdalena Sawica. Buffers can also be identified by a numerical system. Generally speaking, the 100 – 180 range can be used to prep the nail, while 220 – 280 buffs and smooths. This will depend on your chosen brand’s recommendation. Numbers such as 600 up to 4000 can be used to finish the nail, with the highest grit count leaving a high, glass-like shine.

Nail Harmony Eco Shiner 400/4000 £2.50 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Madam Glam Diamond Shape 300/3000 Grit Nail Buffer £POA www.madamglam.com 82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Diamond – The widest point of this file is the middle with sides that narrow to a smaller size. This shape is also sometimes referred to as ‘coffin’. One end may see a flat edge and other rounded.

Coffin Shape Zebra File 100/220-grit £3.75 + VAT (5pk) www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Block – This style features four-sides of abrasion in a cuboid shape. The sides may present the same grit on all four or varying degrees of coarseness. SalonServe Pink & Black Block 100/180-grit £3.50 + VAT (10pk) www.salonserve.com

NAILTECHTOOLS

KB 2 Way Nail File 150/180grit £16.99 + VAT (10pk) www.katiebarnesacademy.com

“I personally recommend a rectangular shaped file and buffer as they deliver a larger surface area for improved comfort and better handto-eye coordination,” states Katie Barnes. “Curved files can cause the brain to see a curved line and curve your filing style, rather than filing in a uniform and straight routine, which can result in an uneven finish.”

CARE, WEAR & TEAR

Recognising wear and tear is important to ensure the best performance from your files, explains Simone Radley. “If your files have patches that are smoother or look worn, have peeling layers or generally don’t seem to be performing as well, you know it’s time for a new one.” INK London Steel Core £3.33 + VAT www.inknails.com

INK London Disposable 180-grit Buffers £4.17 + VAT (10pk) www.inknails.com

When sparse or bald patches begin to develop, you will no longer achieve a uniform result and will need to apply more pressure when filing. “Using old files that once had a stronger grit, such as 150-grit for Jennifer O’Toole a job that requires 180, isn’t advisable either,” explains Jennifer O’Toole, educator for Crystal Nails UK. “You might think that you’re using a softer file, but the reality is that there isn’t much grit left. You’ll just end up filing for longer, and your client will feel the heat!”

STOP THE STRAIN

Due to the manual use of a file or buffer, incorrect positioning or pressure can cause strain. “Filing can lead to a number of issues with our own health, such as Repetitive Strain Injury,” says Laura Peat. “It is important that we look after ourselves as much as we do our clients. Laura Peat “Perfecting product application is crucial: it will reduce the amount of filing needed, making the service not only quicker but also cost effective.” “Nail technicians perform many repetitive movement motions throughout the day and need to be aware of their posture, position and comfort level,” adds Youri Vaisse. “Clients should be extending and relaxing their hand. “Technicians should recognise and adjust their postures to neutral comfortable positions and take frequent small breaks during a service and longer breaks in between. This allows the muscles to relax and for blood flow to return.” “We work within our client’s comfort zones and needs, but make sure you are taking care of yourself,” agrees Jaz Moger. “You are the one sitting in that position, all day, every day.”

Purple Professional Nail File Buffer 600/4000 £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt

The Gel Bottle Inc 120/180-grit file £1.40 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

To stave off wear, investing a little more for good quality files and buffers will help ensure longevity. “A good, hardwearing file should last your client at least three or four appointments,” explains Tina Bell.

Stella Cox

“It can be tempting to choose the cheapest option, but price is often a reflection of quality,” Stella Cox, head of education at Re:New Beauty. “Poorly made files and buffers can often shed their grit. They can crease and fold, as they often require extra pressure to achieve the same result.”

“Most cheaper files will give and bend in the middle which then means your file will end up in the bin!” exclaims Laura Peat, Lecenté educator.

Lucy Pastorelli

Created by nail tech, Lucy Pastorelli, the LP Nails brand of tools and tekking necessaries offers two file shapes. Both feature a reinforced centre and cushioned core to allow for fast, efficient filing. “Selecting your preferred shape is a matter of personal preference,” comments Lucy. LP Nails The Boomerang Nail File 100/180-grit £1 + VAT www.lpnails.com

LP Nails The Edge Nail File 100/180-grit £1 + VAT www.lpnails.com

STOCK UP!

Claire Kettell

“At SalonServe, we have sourced high-quality, disposable files at an affordable price,” enthuses Claire Kettell. “For example, the Zebra file 100/180-grit is available in a pack of 100, meaning the cost per file is 25p. With such low prices they are perfect for one-time use or gifting to clients after treatment.”

Salon Serve Zebra File 100/180-grit £25 + VAT (100pk) www.salonserve.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

GROW & GLOW WITH

e i d d a M HOW TO MAKE YOUR NAIL ART DESIGNS STAND OUT

rt is very emotive, and nail art is no exception. When I’m wearing a design, I feel a sense of pride every time I look down at my nails. I’m proud to be making self-care a habit – and proud of the beautiful work that I am able to create for others. It is a way to express myself and, as it isn’t permanent, I can change my nails or those of my clients to reflect a mood or feeling. Nail art is often a quick way to switch up a look and is more accessible than a new haircut. Nail colours and designs shift to reflect the season and trends can change from month to month. I love seeing what inspires the nail designs of fellow nail technicians. At 81 Rose Garden, we couldn’t wait to get back to work and fulfil our nail art appointments. We work quickly and can offer nail art to most clients within a standard appointment time – as long as it’s not an intricate print on every nail! We have become known for hand-painted nail art in our local area. Our team of technicians has offered nail art for many years, so we have become very adept at producing quality hand-painted artistry in salon time. I’m passionate about nailcare as well as nail art and regularly showcase my work online via demonstrations and live streams. I think that it is really important to try and be one step ahead of fast-evolving nail trends and techniques. As every beauty professional knows, it is imperative to not only learn about the latest technology and innovations, but also polish up practical skills to meet the everchanging market requirements and be as informed as possible. Before the pandemic, I launched a nail academy and online training courses, which have been designed for

Talented salon tech, nail artist & educator, MADDIE REGAN, shares her advice on salon matters to help your business bloom… me to pass on my professional expertise to aspiring nail technicians and enthusiasts alike. The Nail Academy at 81 Rose Garden reflects the diversity of skills and knowledge needed to set up a nail art business. Courses cover physiology and nail health through to advanced acrylic or gel application. There’s so much in the industry that is new and exciting. I also teach techniques such as e-filing, ombré styles and encapsulation, and delicate finishes including mermaid, cable knit and marbling as. If you want to complete additional training, remember to find out what exactly will be taught. Think of the type of qualification you want from your course, too. It’s important to understand the type of training you are booking: is it a workshop? Does it have accreditation? Also, always remember to check out the work of the educator. Do you like their work and do they inspire you? Do they have good reviews? Nail art is a truly a skill thats’s in demand! Clients love nail art and, with the likelihood of significant market growth over the coming years, now is the time to take advantage and diversify your offering to clients.

Maddie x www.81rosegarden.com

/81RoseGarden

@maddisonrosenails & @81rosegarden

Are you interested in training with Maddie at The Nail Academy at 81 Rose Garden? Email salon manager, Sam Wetwood: sam@81rosegarden.com. 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

Korean flavour at your

fingertips South Korean national dress offers the perfect backdrop for creating chic, stylish & flattering nail designs, bringing a modern twist to an ancient cultural tradition. SEEUN PARK & ALEX FOX explore the styles…

Hyun Ja Kim

In celebration of the traditional costume of South Korea, nail artist, Hyun Ja Kim, showcases an array of stylish nail art that can be worn during celebrations when channelling the hanbok look.

The hanbok (South Korea) is traditional Korean clothing, which is steeped in many years of culture and heritage. The term ‘hanbok’ literally means ‘Korean clothing’. It was established as a part of the unique living culture of Korea, influenced by the geographical and climatic nature of the country, and handed down throughout the years to present times. The hanbok is characterised by its wrapped front top, long, high waisted skirt and its typically vibrant colours. The two-piece clothing style of the hanbok is closer to the style of the nomadic tribes and its origins can be traced back as far as the 1st century BC – 7th century AD. Koreans wear the hanbok for formal or semiformal occasions and events such as festivals, celebrations and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports & Tourism established ‘Hanbok Day’ to encourage South Korean citizens to wear their national dress.

The Look

THE NAILS

Products used are by the From The Nail brand and include the Hyunzzang painting gel in white, and gel shades FS01, FS08 and FS09 from the Antique in Syrup collection. These shades were used in layered ombrés to create a cloudy effect before flower petals were sculpted, and flowers and studs used to decorate.

The Look

THE NAILS

Hyun Ja Kim used shade FG39 from the Goblin Magnetic Glitter Gel collection and FS16 from the Antique in Syrup gel collection by From The Nail to create the base, before sculpting layers of petals in block colour and in glitter to add dimension. Pearls were added to complete the design.

THE NAILS

Using the dark FG56 shade in the From The Nail Nine-Tailed Fox Magnetic Glitter Gel collection as a base, Hyun Ja Kim added a dab of Metallic Line gel in a simple blob on five nails then added four butterfly charms.

86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

The Look

THE NAILS

The pretty shades FS01 and FS16 from the Antique in Syrup collection were used to create this design, topped off with pressed flower decals cut to size. The look has been completed with small chains at the cuticle area and some statement studs.

The Look

THE NAILS

Hyun Ja Kim used shades FS10 and FS15 from the From The Nail Antique in Syrup collection with lace decals, flower charms, studs and nail pearls.

THE NAILS

Shades 89 and FU01 from the From The Nail Cereal collection were used with Mirror Powder in Platinum to create this stylish nail look.

This feature comes courtesy of Nailholic magazine. www.nailholic.co.kr Photographer: Jungsun Kim Nails: Hyun Ja Kim @hyunzzang_ Products used by From The Nail: www.fromthenail.co.kr

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

HOW TO STAY ON TRACK AFTER REOPENING

ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

t was so great to see the industry get excited and ready to re-open and now is the perfect time, at the start of the financial year and in a fresh new financial quarter, for businesses to start a review of their performance.

With April being the month the industry largely reopened, business owners should now review the business profit and loss report. This should be repeated every month or at the very least every quarter. Taking withdrawals from a business without reviewing the profit and loss position is a risky way to manage any business – no matter what size. Additionally, reviewing the profit and loss for the first time at the end of the tax year is way too late and only useful to work out how much tax to pay to HMRC. If this sounds familiar, then you need to get started with your profit and loss review to give the business the best chance of success and the ability to grow and become profitable. A profitable business means a regular take-home pay and profit available to

“By running a simple profit and loss report each month, businesses can identify areas for opportunities and areas of risk. This is one of the most important roles of a business owner, regardless of the size or type of business.” 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

re-invest back into the business for growth or innovation.

What is a profit and loss report? The profit and loss report (P&L) is the way to interpret the financial journey of business. The report takes a little time to set up in the way of organising the data if created manually but whatever method is used, it is important to use clear and relevant headings and categories for each type of expense or sale – particularly if a mix of retail, training and treatments are offered to identify the profitable areas of the business and focus points. Below is a simple example of a profit and loss report:

April 2021

Sales

3000

Cost of sales

(1000)

Gross Profit

2000

Less: Expenses Rent

500

Advertising

Insurance

Purchases

500

Net Profit

900

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Cost of sales (or cost of goods sold) are the direct costs involved in the sales. These are the items that are needed to produce the service or provide the goods for resale. This includes direct labour, materials (products) or shipping costs. Expenses are the indirect costs and overheads that are due regardless of the sales that are generated, commonly referred to as the business overheads. In service industries, it is quite common to report all the expenses under expenses as opposed to cost of sales, but this is one way to account for tax and not very useful to analyse the numbers and monitor the business performance or gross profit margins. To produce this report, the monthly bookkeeping must be kept up-to-date, so good bookkeeping processes are important and automation is key for quick and easy profit reviews. Different categories can be used for sales but most booking software providers will provide reports on this that can be used to review the total sales figure in the P&L. This will help business owners to work out the best performing treatments. If already using bookkeeping software such as QuickBooks, then there is a really handy reporting section that will produce a profit and loss report for business owners at the click of a button. But remember – the report is only as good as the data within it so the bookkeeping needs to be completed correctly before running any reports. The ‘report’ option on the QuickBooks menu opens up the profit and loss option shown below. If you use QuickBooks and haven’t checked this out yet, take a look at this handy reporting feature.

“Bookkeeping tools are available at a fairly low cost and it really is worth it to be able to quickly and easily manage bookkeeping and produce reports to review the business performance.” Not using bookkeeping software? If business owners don’t use bookkeeping software then it is possible to manually produce a profit and loss report in Excel or even with pen and paper but this will take additional time which most won’t have now lockdown is easing. Bookkeeping tools are available at a fairly low cost and it really is worth it to be able to quickly and easily manage bookkeeping and produce reports to review the business performance.

Alternative software such as Xero or Freeagent will also have a reports function.

By running a simple profit and loss report each month, businesses can identify areas for opportunities and areas of risk. This is one of the most important roles of a business owner, regardless of the size or type of business.

The industry has huge potential and makes a great contribution to the economy, so just imagine how amazing the output would be if all beauty business owners had a clear view of the business performance along with the skills or professional support to increase profits for the business – just by making a commitment to review the profit and loss each month. When I am approached by a new client, they will often be seeking support because they don’t know the numbers, how much money they make or don’t pay themselves a regular wage at all. A simple profit and loss report is a great first step to take if you have any of these concerns and should be on the to do list of for all business owners. If you need help getting started with profit and loss do get in touch.

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly. www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk

/riajaineaccounts

@ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty

Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 89

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole

Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Holly Mae’s Beauty Therapy Location: Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire

When Holly Mae Cotterell was awarded a gold medal in Beauty Therapy at EuroSkills in 2018, it was the confidence boost she needed to achieve her goal: to own her own salon space. Holly Mae’s Beauty Therapy, based in the nail tech’s home, opened its doors in July 2020 and has seen is share of challenges owing to the pandemic – but has triumphed regardless. “Due to Covid-19, the salon has only been operational for around five months in total,” Holly explains. “Within that short space of time, my client base has grown so much that I have plans to expand. I’m currently awaiting planning permission to build a salon from scratch, in which I will be in full control of the design.” Holly believes her success in the competition circuit is what sets her and the salon apart. “Competing has given me more knowledge about nail standards,” she explains. “In 2016, I won my first competition and was awarded National Champion at WorldSkills UK. The following year I also won the finals and then went on to represent the UK in Budapest for the EuroSkills 2018 competition.” Even the salon’s palette was selected to reflect Holly Mae’s accolades. “I chose navy and gold,” she smiles. “This was mainly inspired by the gold medal, and also the uniform I wore representing the UK when competing. These colours are bold but also create a grand and luxurious feel, despite the salon being a small space.” www.hollymaesbeautytherapy.co.uk

/hollymaesbeautytherapy

@hollymaesbeautytherapy

Noir Beauty

Location: Emsworth, Hampshire Kelly Checketts started her beauty business in the spare room of her family home but outgrew the space after three years. “I loved it but having three children and two sausage dogs, it wasn’t always a practical space from which to work in the evenings,” Kelly laughs. “I knew I wanted to branch out into education, so I needed more space.”

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In the first coronavirus lockdown, Kelly’s husband built her a setup in the garden. Welcoming and fresh, the salon’s décor draws inspiration from a number of sources. “I decided to go for a minimal look, while also bringing in some Art Deco touches with golds and greens,” Kelly adds. “One of my twins loves Frida Khalo, so we incorporated botanical elements inspired by her, too.” @noir__beauty

NAIL TECHS AND THERAPISTS ARE JUST 7 SIMPLE STEPS AWAY FROM THEIR P H A B

S E R V I C E

S T A R

the hair & beauty industry's equivalent

STEP 1

of the Michelin Stars

STEP 2

APPLY NOW

ND SOME FILL IN YOUR DETAILS A RS: PERFORMANCE NUMBE

GO TO

PHABSERVICESTARS.COM AND CLICK

STEP 3

s: Based on the last 6 week

seen per day ber of clients - average num stomers who ber of those cu - average num

UK & ROI only

ENTER YOU R PAYMENT DETAILS yo

tions from you buy retail solu stomers who ber of those cu - average num ients are regular cl

u will o nly be charge d if you r applica tion is succes sful

STEP 4 RETURN TO YOUR EMAILS AND ACTIVATE YOUR ACCOUNT JUST CLICK ON THE LINK

STEP 6

STEP 5

FILL IN YOUR TESTIMONIAL CONTACT DETAILS

COMPLETE YOUR PROFI LE PAGE You will need: - a headshot

2 customers er & your manag

- 4 images of your work - a short bio ab out your experience - your services, hygiene & environmental practices

ESSES NO GU O ... WE D E S A E L P F R PROO O F K S A

EIR GET TH R US ION FO S S I M R PE HEM TACT T N O C TO

- booking and price list URLs etc...

STEP 7 When your customers and manager have responded, you are

ALL DONE!

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if you pass our verification steps: - payment will be processed - profile will be published

- window sticker & certificate will be posted

- social media graphics pack will be added to your account so you can flood social media to attract new business to you

NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

... PASTEL PRETTIES

Khloe Kardashian shared a pretty snap of her enhanced nails with pastel tips, courtesy of nail stylist, Chaun Legend. They’re perfect for spring!

oekardas

hian

Paisley nail art has caught the eyes of the Scratch team. Often featured in bandana designs, this nail trend is being sported globally and we are loving it!

92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Instagram

IN THE PRESS

.com/lastn

ightsnails

Ipswich mental health nurse, Hayley Bradford changed career and set up her nail salon ‘Last Night’s Nails’, only to be hit by lockdown – as reported by the Ipswich Star. She revealed to the online paper: “After over a decade of being a mental health nurse, my passion for nails grew stronger and stronger until I finally decided to leave my ward. “I have always been interested in nails. It might seem like a funny time to start a business during a pandemic, but I didn’t want to wait any longer for my dream.”

Instagram

Instagram.co

m/forthelove

ofnailsbb

Instagram

.com/allw

aspolishe

Instagram

.com/claws

.nailart

.com/khl

DID YOU KNOW? Asda is set for a makeover as its new owners are planning to introduce nail bars and beauty salons to selected stores as part of a £1billion transformation. Reports from national media reveal that the owners want to reduce the number of food aisles in shops by up to a quarter to make space for cafés, hair salons and nail bars.

Fashion designer, Marc Jacobs, was papped indulging in a manipedi at JINsoon Spa in Tribeca, New York.

Instagram.com/jinsoonchoi

❤

CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

SCRATCHMEDIA

Celeb Spot!

VIRTUAL TRY-ONS

Department store, House of Fraser, has launched a virtual beauty consultation service. Customers seeking fragrance, make-up and skincare products can book 20 to 45-minute virtual appointments with beauty experts from brands including Dior, Clarins, Estée Lauder, Clinique and Guerlain to glean advice on items before they purchase.

Instagra

m.com

m.com/c

/tomb

achik

hrissyteig

American model, Chrissy Teigen shared a manicure on Instagram featuring a striking half moon style, while Jennifer Lopez revealed an intricate hand painted 90s inspired nail style courtesy of LA manicurist, Tom Bachik.

PEEL IT

Nail tech @ilysmnails on TikTok, regularly shares her wacky nail styles with her followers. However, people have been shocked with her latest style, ‘the onion peel’ manicure. She has also tried orange peel, birthday candles and lightbulb nails!

TikTok: @ilysmnails

FACT FILE

Pastel manicures are popular every spring, but for 2021, lavender in particular is outpacing the rest. Lavender and lilac nails are up by 100% in Pinterest searches.

nner /kylieje

Kylie Jenner showed off two fresh manicures on Instagram in pink and chrome, inspired by her beauty brand Kylie Cosmetics.

m.com Instagra

/kyliejenn

KEEPING UP WITH KYLIE

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 93

Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

an you believe it’s May already? We are edging towards a month since nail salons were told they could reopen in England and Wales, so if there seems to be an air of excitement around at the moment; it’s not difficult to see why.

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness. Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments in which employees can enjoy working. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

JOIN MY FACEBOOK SUPPORT GROUP

My Stress & Anxiety Support group on Facebook specifically supports those working in the nail and beauty sectors. Join for £9.99 per month with no commitment or contract and benefit from one-to-one and group support, as well as subsidised courses and bespoke training. Scan here to sign up or find out more

Growing the UK economy

@daveheffernanltd

94 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

While it can be daunting to learn all the skills and nuances that come with running a business, you are still here. You’ve all jumped over hurdles and come out the other side with successful businesses that you can call your own.

The nail and beauty industries are absolutely vital to the UK’s economy and this is something that we all need to remind ourselves of from time to time. Small and medium-sized companies make up 99.9% of the UK total, with a combined annual turnover of over £300 billion – and you are a part of this! The nail industry is estimated to be worth around £153m with yet more growth expected on the horizon.

Putting smiles on faces

Local Business Week takes place 11-16 May in the UK, and it’s a great opportunity to remember all of our small businesses that make such an impact on the economy and our lives.

Looking forward

Learning new skills Nail techs are savvy workers, with many using ingenious solutions to reach their customer base and try out new techniques. Social media, for example, has made marketing experts out of many of you, as you have used these platforms to show off your talents and help others to learn. Despite not being able to work throughout the many lockdowns, so many of you took this as an opportunity to increase your skill set, attending or even presenting a huge range of workshops to learn and teach others new talents. This has allowed you to come back even bigger and better than before, offering clients new services and having a renewed confidence in yourself and your business.

Juggling roles

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

Although the lockdowns have been incredibly tough, I’ve been absolutely blown away by the tenacity and hard work that I’ve seen within the nail industry. I wanted to take some time to highlight some of the great things it is responsible for and give you all a bit of a boost to keep up the amazing work.

Many techs juggle the everyday running of their business (including the dreaded tax returns) with family life, often working as the primary or sole carer for children or other family members. My wife, Emma, has been a nail tech for a number of years and runs her business alongside looking after our two boys and her father. I’m often awestruck at how much she can fit into a day.

Within the nail industry, around 50% of techs are self-employed, working for themselves within their own business. While doing this comes with its own freedoms and benefits, there’s also a huge amount of admin that comes with it too.

I’ve spoken to loads of nail techs and often ask them what it was that made them want to start out in the industry. More often than not, it was for the people. Being able to give other people a calming space in which to relax is something that should not be taken for granted, and it can sometimes be forgotten how important your role is to others.

The signs are currently very positive that we won’t be going into another lockdown any time soon, and while I think we can all agree that it was an horrendously challenging time for many within this industry and others, I fully encourage you to look at the bright side of what the Covid-19 pandemic has taught us: • We are more resilient than we thought • We have so many opportunities to do more • We have all survived it

Mentor the mind & boost your business With 45+ years’ combined experience in mental health/personal development and business lecturing and management, Leona Ko-Nkengmo and David Heffernan are hosting a unique event from 15 May. For four weeks, join a select group of nail techs in a private group to be mentored by two experts in their fields. You will be taken through daily tasks to strengthen your resilience, your mindset and your business skills and by the end of the four weeks you will have tools in your armoury to be a success in life and in business. Date: 15 May for four weeks Cost: £90 with payment options available. To join, scan here

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3 Months Free Insurance If you were a member with ABT last June then you will remember we sent you, your own one use, unique discount code to use at your next renewal and it’s valid until September 2021 so this is just a reminder to use your code to take advantage of the 3 months free insurance oﬀer! Make sure you are keeping those codes safe as it’s our BIGGEST EVER discount oﬀ your membership & insurance package, but also any treatment extensions that you might have, which could make a really BIG saving to your insurance for the year! T&Cs apply.

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Membership Helpline We are open for business so if you have any queries regarding delivery of our services please do not hesitate to contact us on 01789 773573 or live chat at www.abtinsurance.co.uk or email info@abtinsurance.co.uk Our oﬃce is open Monday to Friday, 9am – 5pm and we look forward to helping you.

ABT’s unique membership website delivers up to date Beauty, Hairdressing, Industry and Lifestyle news. Designated member area oﬀering tailored beneﬁts, discount and unique content. As well as free salon signage and ABTs Guide to COVID-19 we are keeping you up to date with ABT’s stance on industry topics as they happen such as, patch testing after COVID-19, The Importance of Consultation Cards, Track and Trace and A Guide to Salon Safety.

Beauty | Hair | Complementary | Nails, Tanning & Make-Up | Salon Full Details, Terms of Business, Application Forms, Policy Wording and Explanatory Documents are available to view online at the website address

NAILDESIGNS

This striking orange 3D rose design across tips by @_jen_nails_ is enhanced with gold embellishments.

Swing into spring with pops of yellow, daisies and pretty butterflies. Nails by @reyes_desire_nails.

Spring pastel shades and varied placements make for a stunning nail design, by @angelajuarez.nails.

Step into spring with CALLIE ILEY’S roundup of fabulous 3D & textured floral nail designs.

Focus

Add some sparkle this spring à la @cheyennesnails_, who embellishes these pastel ombré nails with a white 3D flower and rhinestones.

Elegant raised florals and beautiful butterflies add intrigue to these shimmering enhancements by @nailsbykatrins.

An ombré rainbow across nails by @beautybyxhitlali is topped off with flowers and shown off on an edgy square shape.

@nailsbyhami serves up bold, bright shades – with big florals and gorgeous gems across enhancements.

A striking stiletto shape by @glamsusie dazzles with the addition of bows and various flowers in peach and pink.

Go bold this season like @nailsbygets, who uses a bright orang shade for this design, finished with floral feature nails.

Fingernails in

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Y T R PA l i i a n n d u e s t t a r y m i party! t l u e h T

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