Scratch Magazine November 2021 by scratchmagazine

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Eighteen years of... ®

Issue 223 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writers Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Emma Hobday emma.hobday@scratchmagazine.co.uk Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

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Until next month,

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Images courtesy of Magnetic Nail Design UK Shades shown are Champagne Yellow, Foulard Brown, Mont Blanc Blue, Normandy Green, Provence Pink & Rouge Red from Magnetic’s A Picnic In France gel polish collection. Available via www.magneticnails.uk

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

COVER CREDITS Nails: Lucy Allen @supernaturalnails MUA: Clare Jane Garrett @clarejangarrett @fiftyoneeight Photography: Dean Smith @niah.ox Model: Niah @j_murfin BTS Videography: James Murfin

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Contents NOVEMBER 2021

FEATURES 22 Shoot & Score

Get to know the winners of photographic nail competition, The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2021

32 Spotlight On… Vegan Beauty

Scratch uncovers the rules & regulations for nail products to achieve vegan-friendly status

42 Christmas Retail: Unwrapped

Make the most of festive season by serving up retail gifts to pull in profit & support client shopping needs

50 Patch Work

Check out the hotdesking initiative that supports those needing a nail space or seeking to host a pro

52 Top Of The Trend

OPI unveils the winners of its TrendVision nail art contest & their trend-led nail styles

66 Mobile Moves

Are you considering moving to a mobile way of working? Explore essential points to note…

70 Charging Your Worth

Business experts & fellow techs share how to evaluate your price points & inform your clients of change

84 Haute Couture Hues

Take a look at the designer fashion brands making waves in the beauty sector with lacquer lines

86 See The World In Colour

Support your nail shade choices & artistic creations with an insight into colour theory

62 REGULARS

10 18 20 28 36 40 48 54 60 62 64 68 72 74 78 80 82 88 90 92 96 98

Nail Nation The Hot List The Scratch Scoop The Cosmetic Climate The Force Of The Feds Nailscopes The Clawgasmic Effect Readers Gallery Brand Watch Through The Keyhole Getting Down To Business Product Spotlight Scratch Stats Scratch Pads Mindful Matters The Business Of Beauty Ask The Experts Pro DIY Beauty In Numbers Tech Talk Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

What will you

COLOURED ACRYLICS

GLITTER ACRYLICS

ART GELS

REGULARS 10 Nail Nation GEL POLISH 18 The Hot List 20 The Scratch Scoop RUBBER BASE BIAB 28 The Cosmetic Climate 38 The Force Of The Feds 40 Nailscopes 48 The Clawgasmic Effect 54 Readers Gallery 60 Brand Watch 62 Through The Keyhole 64 Getting Down To Business 68 Product Spotlight 72 Scratch Stats Learn more about NSI at 74 Scratch Pads 78 Mindful Matters or 80 The Business Of Beauty 82 Ask The Experts Share your creations #nsinails #nsiuk @nsiukltd @nsiuk @nsiuk 88 Pro DIY 90 Beauty In Numbers 92 Techoﬃ Talk Head ce: NSI (UK) Ltd Unit 4 James Nasmyth Way Eccles Manchester M30 0SF e: salesinfo@nsinails.co.uk t: 01617882860 f: 01617882861 96 Nail Clippings 98 Fingernails In Focus

www.nsinails.co.uk

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Nail NATION

business

news & views

MPs demand support to revive £30 billion beauty industry

By Team Scratch Beauty Backed Trust launches grant programme to support beauty pros The Beauty Backed Trust, which aims to assist those that work in the beauty industry, has launched its first grant programme to continue to support the industry following the Covid-19 pandemic. Two grants are available for those that need extra support and guidance while they get back on their feet; a Start-up Grant and Support Grant – both up to £5,000. “Since launching Beauty Backed Trust, we have had over 200 support requests for stock, equipment, financial and mentoring support,” comments Caroline Hirons, skincare expert and founder of Beauty Backed. “As a response to this, the trustees and I are thrilled to have put in place two grant programmes that will provide support to those most in need. “Both programmes will not only provide financial support but access to training and mentoring to help meet the needs of our industry.” Applications are open via the Beauty Backed website and will be reviewed by Beauty Backed’s trust manager, Amy McLean, before applicants are moved to a second stage; an interview with trustees. Successful applicants will then be provided with a mentoring programme for guidance and support throughout their journey, to ensure that the funds are used appropriately and that they and benefitting properly from the assistance. www.beautybacked.com

The All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Beauty, Aesthetics & Wellbeing, chaired by Carolyn Harris MP and Judith Cummins MP, has published a Call to Action following its inquiry into the sector’s recovery from Covid-19. They comment: “We launched this inquiry due to concerns we were hearing from the industry about serious staff shortages, a continued deficit in consumer confidence, and a lack of support for wellbeing services.” Once worth £30 Carolyn Harris billion, and supporting 50,000 businesses and 560,000 jobs, the pandemic has seen a deficit in consumer confidence, meaning that 66% of beauty businesses remain either partially or fully reliant on government support to survive. The APPG has made three key recommendations Judith Cummins to the government to ensure that the beauty industry will eventually bounce back from the pandemic: 1. Broaden apprenticeship incentives for employers, in particular for small and micro businesses. 2. Include further accessible and broader holistic and complementary qualifications in the National Skills Fund. 3. Recognise the crucial role of holistic and complementary therapies, and the crucial role these can play in taking pressure off the NHS. Harris and Cummins continue: “While we were grateful the sector was able to reopen in April after our year-long campaign for greater recognition, beauty, aesthetics and wellbeing continues to be left behind in the government’s response to the Covid-19 pandemic. We strongly urge the government to implement the recommendations in our Call to Action and to ensure that this vital sector, as the beating heart of several UK high streets, can once again become an economic powerhouse and continue to support all of our wellbeing.” www.baw-appg.com

Belinda Price scoops top Wella award

15% of hair & beauty businesses to take on apprentices before 2022

OPI education manager for the UK and Ireland, Belinda Price, has been crowned Wella Education Manager of the Year 2021. “In the last 18 months, OPI Belinda Price has launched an education app, the OPI Professional Community Group on Facebook, free online education and run the TrendVision Awards, while supporting the FNP,” Belinda reveals. “All projects have been led by me, so I am thrilled to have been recognised with this award and love the satisfaction of seeing projects get off the ground and the variety my role presents.” www.trade.opiuk.com

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) State of the Industry survey reports that before the end of 2021, 27% of hair and beauty businesses are likely to take on new staff, up from 16% in June 2021, with 9% considering staff redundancies and 15% likely to take on apprentices. However, other key findings are that many businesses are still not operating at full capacity, so the NHBF is calling for: 1. The reintroduction of the Job Retention Bonus through to the spring 2022 and restraint on further increases to the National Minimum Wage and apprenticeship rate until such time as the sector can begin its recovery. 2. More attractive apprenticeship incentives to employers, focusing on the development of affordable apprenticeship schemes specifically for small businesses in order to make it financially viable for them to keep on and recruit apprentices. 3. A commitment to provide further financial support should any of the four nations need to reintroduce lockdown measures. 4. Continued consultation between the sector and UK and devolved governments to tailor current and future guidance in a clear and accessible way as possible with adequate time for businesses to plan and implement any further changes. www.nhbf.co.uk

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Nail NATION Sweet Squared launches Academy2 platform to inspire & educate beauty pros Nail and beauty distributor & training provider, Sweet Squared, has launched education platform Academy2 to make learning more accessible for industry professionals. The platform offers Sweet Squared’s award-winning HABIA-accredited course programme, with a mix of online and in-person teaching. This allows more professionals to fit learning into their schedules and work at their own pace. “A mix of online and in-classroom education means that students will walk away feeling confident, with all the skills they need to make their business a success,” explains Carly Howarth, education manager at Sweet Squared. Carly Howarth Signing up to Academy2 also gives professionals the chance to access free online content and events. “Through this new platform, free masterclasses and webinars will be available to all professionals, so you can really upskill in whichever area you choose,” adds Howarth. Courses include introductory and conversion courses to CND Shellac™ and Light Elegance. To register, visit www.sweetsquared.com

Nailchemy unveils nationwide education team & courses Nominated for a Best Emerging Nail Brand award, Nailchemy was founded by Dave and Hayley Partridge in 2017 – but its focus on nail education has extended much further. Based in Bridgwater, Somerset, Hayley founded Nailchemy Academy over a decade ago and its offerings have grown as the brand’s product line has expanded. Its core systems include Gel Polish & Prophecy Gel Polish, Origin Hard Gel, the Genesis Acrylic System and Aura Acrylic-Gel. Nailchemy Academy offers a range of nail and beauty training courses, including conversion and refresher options, hosted by 28 educators at locations all over the UK. “From the start, we have wanted to offer our customers a personal touch and to be part of their professional journey,” comment Hayley & Dave. “Education is a really important part of what Nailchemy offers and from early on, we have been delivering live instructional social media videos to help and support customers in the use of products, and to share tips and tricks with nail art techniques. “There is a wealth of experience and knowledge with ongoing tutor support within the education team, that we love to share with our students. All courses are fully accredited via ABT and The Beauty Guild. Online training courses and workshops are also available.” For a full list of courses and to find an educator in your area, visit www.nailchemy.co.uk

VTCT & NCFE win T Level contract for hair, beauty & aesthetics NCFE, the educational charity and leader in vocational and technical learning, has been awarded the contract to develop the new T Level courses, and will be supported in the development of the Hair, Beauty and Aesthetics T Level by VTCT. T Levels, which launched in September 2020, follow GCSEs and are Alan Woods OBE equivalent to three A levels. These two-year courses are developed in collaboration with employers and businesses so that the content meets the needs of industry and prepares students for work, further training or study. The Hair, Beauty & Aesthetics T Level is scheduled to commence across England in 2023. Commenting on the win, VTCT chief executive, Alan Woods OBE, David Gallagher says: “VTCT is pleased to support NCFE on this T Level contract as the specialist sub-contractor and partner. Our partnership with NCFE combines its tried and tested experience in delivering T Levels with our unrivalled hair, beauty and aesthetics sector knowledge and expertise. “For almost 60 years, VTCT has put the learner at the heart of its organisational mission as it delivers qualifications that help individuals secure a job and reach their career goals. With our employer partners, who also helped develop this winning bid, we are really looking forward to working with learning and training providers to ensure the success of this T Level.” VTCT and NCFE will be working closely with experts across the hair and beauty sectors to ensure that the new T Levels will equip students with relevant skills. “NCFE is delighted to be able to expand our technical education offer to include creative sector specialisms, improving choices for students,” comments David Gallagher, CEO at NCFE. “We particularly look forward to collaborating with VTCT to bring the hair and beauty qualifications to life. With our extensive knowledge on the development of T Levels, combined with their expertise and standing in the sector, we are confident that the qualifications be of the highest quality and lead learners into fantastic career opportunities.” www.ncfe.org.uk / www.vtct.org.uk 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

British Beauty Council adds to Executive Board Awie Newell, CEO of 8Greenswith who hones over 25 years’ experience in the beauty and consumer goods sectors, has been appointed to the executive board of the British Beauty Council. “The beauty industry is one of the most empowering industries in the UK,” Newell comments. “It welcomed me with open arms when I entered it and I have had the opportunity to work with very talented and creative people in its different sectors. “I am very honoured to join the executive board of the British Beauty Council to contribute to its mission to raise the reputation of the beauty industry, enhance education and invest in innovation.” www.britishbeautycouncil.com

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KEEP ‘EM GUESSING

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Nail NATION UK beauty industry reunites at first large-scale event since 2019

Glitterbels supports Azaylia Foundation fundraising efforts with two nail glitters Glitterbels is supporting the efforts of children’s cancer charity, The Azaylia Foundation, with proceeds from the sales of a premixed nail glitter and a lion shaped loose glitter. The two products have been designed in honour of Azaylia Diamond Cain, who became known as the ‘little lion’ during her brave battle with cancer but sadly slipped away at just eight months old. A spokesperson for The Azaylia Foundation comments: “Azaylia Diamond Cain lit the world up and gave people hope and inspiration during the dark and stressful times of the Covid-19 pandemic. Although her life was short in her tragic battle with cancer, Azaylia left behind a legacy of hope and beacon of light which continues to burn bright today.” Azaylia’s mother Safiyya designed the glitter alongside Glitterbels founder, Annabel Maginnis. All proceeds from sales of the glitters will be donated to the Foundation, which aims to support families who are fundraising for treatments that may not be readily available on the NHS, and provide children with memorable experiences as they fight cancer. The Azaylia Foundation also works with families to fund and deliver magical experiences aimed to bring positivity and smiles into their daily lives, and will focus on educating parents and raising awareness of the signs and symptoms of cancer and coping with diagnoses. www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk www.theazayliafoundation.com

Olympia Beauty 2021 took place on 3 & 4 October at Olympia, London and reintroduced beauty professionals to the trade show experience for the first time since 2019. Engaged and excited, visitors discovered brands, product launches and show offers alongside free education, stage talks and live demonstrations. Visitors also enjoyed the buzzing atmosphere and the ability to meet colleagues, suppliers and industry friends in the open and airy venue. Two years in the making, Olympia Beauty 2021 gave feature areas a new lease of life with The Salon & Spa Owners’ Club, an executive club for owners of a beauty business (big or small), which partnered for the first time with Salonology, hosted by Ryan and Hollie Power. This event also saw the launch of the Brand Discovery Sessions, offering owners a new way to do business with up to 10 dedicated brands in a single hour of networking and meetings. Additionally, The Lash Games, which celebrated its fifth anniversary, was delivered in partnership with the World Lash University, and the National Massage Championship saw over 50 massage therapists compete for coveted awards. SAVE THE DATE! Olympia Beauty 2022 will take place on Sunday 2 & Monday 3 October 2022. www.olympiabeauty.co.uk

NAF! PRO adds to nail merch line NAF! PRO, supplier of retail and pro products for nailists, has added four items to its merchandise range. Joining its existing line of aprons and tops is a striped long-sleeved ‘Tough As Nails’ top and a snuggly ‘NailBoss’ hoodie, available in pastel pink and grey in sizes S to XXL. Also in the release is a leak proof, steel ‘Tough As Nails’ bottle in baby blue, which can be used for hot and cold drinks, and a gold ‘Nail Boss’ keyring. www.nafprofessionals.com

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Winner of NAILS Next Top Nail Artist announced The NAILS Next Top Nail Artist (NTNA) competition (Season 8) concluded on 4 October, with Emily Nash of @nailsbyem announced as the winner following 10 weeks of weekly challenges. The online nail art and design competition, launched by NAILS magazine and sponsored by CND™, aims to showcase the world’s most talented nail professionals. Stephanie Loesch of @_Stephsnails_ was announced as the first runner up and Jessica Warzyniak of @oohnicenails scooped third place from the judging line-up: co-founder and style director of CND™, Jan Arnold, Season 7 winner Giselle Caballero, Beth Livesay and game master, Winnie Huang. “I have been a nail artist for seven years,” comments Nash, who hails from Elkhart, Indiana. “Art has been a passion of mine since I could hold a pencil, so being able to create a wonderful career out of it has been the biggest blessing ever. I love that I get to do my dream job every day!” The US nail artist specialises in hand painted nail art, particularly characters and small details, and it was the intricacy of Nash’s work that saw her receive a crystal trophy, $8000 cash prize and the opportunity to collaborate with CND™. For the final challenge, the three finalists were asked to design a capsule nail collection for Arnold to wear, choosing five nail tips from four sets already created in previous challenges to creatively reimagine. They were also set the task of making one full set of 10 nail tips using CND™ products only and embellishments, if desired. Head judge, Jan Arnold, said to Nash: “I’m in love with absolutely everything you’ve created. And it’s all with such precision, confidence, and control.” www.nailsmag.com

Haircuts4Homeless charity launches book to support ongoing work Founded by hairdresser Stewart Roberts, the Haircuts4Homeless charity creates space and acceptance for homeless people via a haircut. It has launched ‘Hear Me, See Me’, a 120-page black and white book that aims to humanise the face of homelessness by challenging stigmas and stereotypes through thought-provoking imagery. “This is not just a book, this is not just a haircut, this is a community,” comments Stewart Roberts. “It’s a community that creates a space for wellbeing and acceptance and – even if it is temporary – it allows our guests some respite and an opportunity to escape their difficult circumstances. “Homelessness is at crisis point in the UK and although we are aware this book is not going to solve the issues, we do believe we can contribute to making a small difference to the lives of these people,” Stewart continues. “But we need your help, so please buy a copy of the book to help maintain our ability to fund our services.” The charity has set up a Crowdfunder page looking to support the printing costs of the book, and the full proceeds from its sale will go back to the charity. www.crowdfunder.co.uk/haircuts4homeless

NEON NAILS RULE THE RUNWAY AT FASHION’S FINEST SHOW The platform for emerging fashion designers, Fashion’s Finest, presented its show for London Fashion Week on 18 September at St John’s Church in Hyde Park. Known for promoting diversity, representation and inclusion in the fashion industry, the show was true to brief – a diversity of unique and beautiful collections by emerging designers. Celebrity nail artist Julie Bryan, who headed up the show’s nail team, reveals: “The nails are usually left for me to diversify, but I wanted to include moods, seasons and colour schemes for spring/summer 2022.” Nails were painted by Julie and team members Dawn Shepard, Emma Booysen, Emily Jones and Nerys Jones in a nude hue, before bold half-moon shapes were painted at the cuticle, with a fun take on the French tip using Lecenté Neon Shadows. Each look was finished with crystals from Crystal Parade and Nailchemy Neon Paints. @sparklesjulie

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NEWPRODUCTS

Nailchemy The Ultimate Glitter Collection £80 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Get your hands on the full range of Nailchemy’s 5g nail glitters with this 46-piece collection in a pretty gift box; the perfect present to yourself this party season. It features holographic hues, multi-size mixes and more, plus comes with a free glitter tray.

Light Elegance LE Color Mother £39.95 + VAT each www.sweetsquared.com Show off your colour collection in style with this handy swatch book, which holds up to 120 tips. It features 12 Swatch Strips which hold 10 tips each, and a Swatch Loop that allows you to cure 10 tips at a time before inserting into the Color Mother.

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients NAF! PRO Autumn Nail & Cuticle Oils Collection £5.50 + VAT/RRP £8 each & lend a helping hand www.nafprofessionals.com to your services The ideal retail item for the winter months, promote cuticle care amongst clients with these delectable and vegan-friendly cuticle oil pens, available in Salted Caramel, Wild Berries and Spiced Apple scents. Also available as 30ml dropper bottles from £12 + VAT/RRP £15.

OPI Infinite Shine Celebration Collection £POA/RRP £15.50 each www.trade.opiuk.com ‘Tis the season to celebrate, so snap up the 12 limited edition crème and shimmer shades in the Celebration Collection from OPI. In addition, three confetti-like glitters; Cheers To Mani Years, Confetti Ready and You Had Me AT Confetti, each featuring a translucent base, can be layered over shades for a fun finish. The collection is also available in Nail Lacquer & GelColor formulas.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Magnetic Nail Design Stamping Plate in Oh Deer £5.50 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk Prepare for festive nail artistry with this stamping plate from Magnetic Nail Design, allowing for the speedy, easy creation of Christmassy designs. The plate features 24 styles in a range of sizes.

Lecenté™ Glitter 10th Anniversary Box £29.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk In celebration of its 10 year anniversary, Lecenté has released 10 Multi Glitz Glitters in a special anniversary box. The glitters are inspired by the brand’s original Ultra Fine Glitters launch and include a bright, bold lime green, fun fuchsia, gold and silver.

NEWPRODUCTS

PersoNAILity Essentials Nail Kit £99 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Founder of PersoNAILity, celebrity beauty therapist Jenni Draper, has launched this handy kit featuring four tools, each named after ‘good’ personality traits. Included are the Reliable precision nippers, Loving cuticle remover, Kind cuticle pusher and Graceful curette tool.

CND SHELLAC™ Party Ready Collection £83.70 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com To celebrate a renewed outlook on life, CND™ has launched the Party Ready collection; six effortless yet glam shades that include a glittery gold and dramatic deep red. Available individually for £13.95 + VAT each and in the VINYLUX™ Weekly Polish formula for £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 each.

Kindr Medium Business Bundle £105 inc VAT www.kindr.co.uk Keep hygiene levels high with Kindr’s Medium Business Bundle, suitable for sanitising your premises, equipment, stock, staff and clients’ hands. It features eight small and three large foaming hand sanitisers, two Kindr Flairosol Super Fine Mist Sanitisers and a 5L Kinder Liquid Solution Refill Canister.

Astonishing Nails Gelosophy One In A Million Collection £12.50 + VAT each www.snaprofessional.co.uk Inspired by the fashion scene, the One In A Million Gelosophy gel polish collection features a diverse range of trend-led hues, from the daring red Miss Independent to mustard yellow Brave and deep green Pure. Marvelash Bamboo Accessories from £10.95 + VAT for case of three. Available via wholesalers nationwide. Improve your eco credentials with Marvelash Bamboo accessories from Salon System; a range of bamboo lash and brow accessories that make the switch from single-use plastic simple. Included in the collection are micro applicators for precise product application, mascara wands, sponge applicators and brush applicators.

Magpie Beauty Nail Art Stickers £1.75 + VAT per pack www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Designed with timepressed pros and clients that seek speedy nail art in mind, Magpie Beauty has released over 150 nail art stickers to suit all seasons, trends and client desires. Pack numbers 140 to 144 feature a range of festive designs, from baubles to snowflakes, mini Santas and more.

Halo Gel Polish Winter in New York Collection £5.49 each + VAT www.purenails.co Get a feel for the magic of winter in New York with Halo Gel Polish’s latest six-piece collection, inspired by the city that never sleeps. Choose from warm burgundy and brown tones like Central Park and 5th Avenue, or opt for dark tones with Liberty – a deep teal hue, and Empire State – a timeless black.

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p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Chloe Randall, Emma Hobday Bottom (L-R): Jess Wilkie, Callie Illey, Rebecca Hitchon

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

out Out and ab

In the

MAIL... Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

The team was ou t en masse for the first beauty tra de show since 2019 – Olympia Beauty, London. We loved chattin g to our readers and uncovering new launches, and many attend ees went home with a Scratch go ody bag after subscribing or ren ewing their magazine subscri ption at the show .

We ’re ge tti ng in th e mo od for pa rty sea son th an ks to OP I’s gif t of th ree sh ad es fro m th e Ce leb ra tio n Co lle cti on ; My lar Dr ea ms , All Is Be rry & Br igh t & Pa int Th e Tin sel tow n Re d, av ail ab le via ww w. tra de .op iuk .co m.

n it is in g fr o m sa a c k a g e p o p p e d in t h e p Our nail d in k A as car y g ie n e K in d r , w as we’v e regime is oh b r a n d , h e lp k e e p o u r h ic e a n d e ff o B o t u e tter Cu been gifted th so sweet, p o st c t in t h r e a b o u t t e fe ic r Honey le e p B s etc. It c utter P p r a c t ic e o v e . R e a d m o c h a se t h e e pot of h ame packaged n from OMY on the m ge 61 and pur o.uk. o are ava ney, too! OMY with a cute dr.c n pa ilable v K in d r o s v ia w w w . k in ia www etc products t c u .omyetc prod .co.uk.

What we’re wearing...

Nail stylist, Carla Olivera, of London-based salon, Iris Avenue, created a pretty marble nail design for news & features writer, Chloe, using CND Shellac™ shades. Chloe also enjoyed a tour of the salon; read about her experience on page 74. White cuffs mirror pastel tips on the fingernails of news & features writer, Emma, whose nails were preened by Lauren Denford of Glow Beauty By Lauren.

Secret Spa sent OPI nail tech, Billie-Jo Sheridan, to tend to the nails of Helena and Callie before the Wella TrendVision Awards 2021. Helena chose the emerald ‘Stay Off The Lawn!’ GelColor shade while Callie also opted for a green hue; ‘Gargantuan Green Grape’.

Meet Rebecca!

hotel to the Hilton Chloe headed nd te , London to at on Park Lane which , ds ar Beauty Aw the CEW 2021 t uc od pr g in tstand ret recognise ou ga ar M d creativity. for innovation an ize pr e th claimed Dabbs London its with Foot Product’ ‘B ‘ est Hand or balm. t en m at Tre Cracked Heel Helena & Callie were invited by OP I to attend the Wella TrendVision Awar ds 2021 at the Roun dhouse, Camde n, at which the winne r and runner-up of the OPI TrendVision na il art competition were announced. The evening saw a va riety of hair showcase s with models’ na ils tended to by the OPI finalists befor e the winners across We lla’s categories we re revealed with a helping hand fro m host, Fearne Cotton. Re ad more on page 52.

Hoxton ed to Colours, Callie hotfoot hich w t, en ndon ev for a Krylik Lo the of ch un la re e celebrated th allie C . ess-on nails brand’s 3D pr th drag wi s at ch d inks an indulged in dr a nail set. being gifted icons before

Scratch has welcomed Rebecca Hitchon to the editorial team; a beauty enthusiast and journalism graduate who joins as a news & features writer. In her first week, she headed to an event hosted by Salon System to mark the launch of its Gellux Without Limits gel polish collection, and brand expert, Karen Louise, vamped up her nails using shade Kallie-Blu. 20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

GORGEOUS Glossy Colour 15 Day Wear. Expert Performance. Seasonal & Trend Shades. Available at your wholesaler now.

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e r o c S & t o o h S

NAILCOMPETITION

The winners of this year’s The Great Scratch Shoot Out photographic nail competition have been revealed – with the first place entry gracing this month’s front cover CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2021 saw 67 entries submitted from all over the world, and following a thorough judging process, our winners were revealed at Olympia Beauty,, London on 4 October. Entrants were asked to submit an image with an artistic flair and a focus on nails to no set theme. The top three winners were chosen by the Scratch team while voting opened online for the Voter’s Choice Award,, where 6,500 of you cast a vote for your favourite snap. “Thank you to everyone who entered. The nail industry delivered a beautiful array of entries and I speak for the entire judging panel when I say we really enjoyed deciding this year’s winners,” reveals Chloe Randall, competition organiser. Let’s meet the winners of The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2021…

Lucy Allen – Sheffield, UK

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NAILCOMPETITION Lucy Allen of SuperNatural Nails in Sheffield, UK, has been crowned as this year’s first place winner – with an image so striking that it has been chosen to feature on this month’s cover. The Scratch team commended the image for its use of lighting, stunning nail work, pose and form. What is your background in nails? “I started the SuperNatural Nails brand in 2018, beginning my journey as a mobile nail tech on a part-time basis after training with Bio Sculpture. A year later I trained with INK London in hard gel application, e-file use and Acrygel. I wanted to provide an inclusive nail service that was fully vegan, eco-conscious and offered detailed, custom, hand-painted nail art; a combination that no-one else was offering in Sheffield at the time. “After a year renting a space in my friend’s hair salon, I took on my studio space during the first lockdown in June 2020. I was so busy once lockdown lifted that I expanded the studio space into a neighbouring room. After just six months, I rented out two desk spaces to other nail techs. “Last year, I trained with Re:New Beauty in Elim MediHeel pedicures and I recently completed e-file pedicure with Lilly Beau and nail artistry via Celina Ryden’s My Nail Academy platform. I’m also working through Marian Newman’s Nail Knowledge ‘Essential Nail Professional’ diploma. I think I’m just addicted to learning and I don’t see that changing any time soon!” Why did you enter The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “I had considered entering for a while as I’d love to explore the editorial side of the nail industry, but I chickened out in 2020. However, after a tough year for us all due to the pandemic, the thought of collaborating with other talented creatives on a project was really appealing.” Talk us through the idea behind your entry… “The concept for the shoot was Afrofuturism. The team and I wanted to create a look that reflected a brighter future influenced by science, technology and specifically black culture and futuristic iconography. It was a collaborative idea between the make-up artist, photographer and I and we chose it because we felt it was strong and also suited our model, Niah.” What was your reaction to finding out you had won The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “I was in the studio with one of my regular clients and we were watching the live stream of the announcement while I was prepping her nails. When we saw my image unveiled, we both jumped up and screamed! Simone Radley and Joanna Dodd of INK London video called me from the brand’s stand at Olympia Beauty to congratulate me and I had phone calls from other nail tech friends for the rest of the day. I’m glad I was with such an understanding client as I was shaking so much, I was barely able to finish her nails!” What would be your advice to nail techs considering entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out in future years? “Do it! Choose your creative team and your models wisely and well in advance. You need to be on the same page creatively and be able to effectively communicate your ideas between each other to get the best out of your shoot.” What did it mean to you to win? “I’m still in shock. This year’s entries were really great and there was some strong competition from other nail techs across the globe. It just feels fantastic to have ‘gone for it’ and won with my first ever entry to a competition and to see my work in our industry ‘bible’!” www.supernaturalnails.co.uk /supernaturalnails @supernaturalnails

“The concept for the sh t was A ofuturism. The team and I wanted to create a l k that reflected a brighter future influenced by science, technolo and specificay black culture and futuristic iconography.” IMAGE CREDITS Nails: Lucy Allen @supernaturalnails MUA: Clare Jane Garrett @clarejangarrett Photography: Dean Smith @fiftyoneeight Model: Niah @niah.ox BTS Videography: James Murfin @j_murfin

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

NAILCOMPETITION Sol López Ferraro headed up the nail art team responsible for this year’s second place win, which caught the eyes of the judges due to its innovative and futuristic nod to mask-wearing and perfectly complementary nail style. Why did you enter The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “My team and I have loved and followed Scratch magazine for years so when the opportunity came to enter The Great Scratch Shoot Out, we thought it was a brilliant chance to demonstrate our work in a worldwide event and raise the profiles of techs in Argentina.” What was the concept behind your image? “The first thing we decided was the nail art to be created. Once this was finalised, the team started to discuss ideas around the nail work. When the galactic concept was established, we then decided to merge it with the pandemic scenario. This is when the helmet and acrylic mask were brought in to bring both concepts together. We wanted to create a strong first look impact and I believe we achieved that.” What was the shoot day like? “So much fun! I arrived at the studio early to prepare the nails as we wanted them to be the main focus of the final picture so they had to be perfect.

Sol López Ferraro – Buenos Aires, Argentina

“During the shoot, the team tried to achieve a blue light effect which proved challenging. Sometimes it was too much and in other shots it was too little but after a lot of hard work, we achieved the desired effect to support the futuristic concept which reflected elements of the pandemic.”

What is your background in nails? “I joined the industry six years ago when I started at Penny Nail, a salon in Buenos Aires. The salon has a strong focus on nail art and it was from this point that I fell in love with it; it was like love at first sight. I am still part of this amazing team today. My true passion is character design and I am also a teacher in this area.” What was your reaction to scooping second place? “The team was watching the live event via social media and eagerly awaiting the results. When Chloe announced my name in second place, I started screaming and jumping with happiness. It was an amazing feeling and such a beautiful surprise.”

Style file Do you want to recreate Sol’s nail style? Scan here for a step-by-step courtesy of the Penny Nail Art team, Buenos Aires

Why should people enter The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “It’s a great opportunity to demonstrate your work, practice your skills in another area of the nail world, enhance your portfolio and to be inspired by other nail artists around the world.” www.pennynailart.com /penny.nail.art @penny_nai

IMAGE CREDITS Nail art team: Sol López Ferraro, Van Jaunarena & Dai Salomé @penny_nail Model & styling: Gloria Lamothe @glorylamothe Photographer: Saika @saikamagicbox

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILCOMPETITION This year’s third place award was scooped by Melanie Garlick of Cruelty Free Clawz, Lincolnshire, with its inclusive beauty theme and bold, bright styling. What is your background in nails? “I am a vegan and cruelty-free nail artist. I qualified in hair, beauty and nail styling around 20 years ago and after a number of years in the industry, I took some time out for personal reasons before returning during lockdown. I used this time to refresh my skills with online courses and push my limits creatively. Since then, I have been incredibly blessed to have amazing opportunities with competitors from Ru Paul’s Drag Race. This has led to a predominant portion of my clientele being from the drag community. I strive to provide a safe space for my LGBTQ+ patrons.” Who inspires you? “I attended refresher training with Sam Marsh of @sammarshnails and she has been a tower of support. Sam inspires me to push myself and to try new techniques and for that, I am so grateful. Kirsty Meakin has also been a huge influence as she has shown me how to create unusual nails and push my creativity to another level.”

Melanie Garlick – Lincolnshire, UK

What would be your advice to nail techs considering entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out in future years? “Plan, plan and plan again! Don’t be afraid to try new things or new techniques, just make sure you have the time to learn the skill. Have a clear vision and think about the message you are trying to convey. The whole look should be harmonious and tell a story.” What does it mean to you to scoop third place? “I feel truly blessed. Placing third means just as much to me as coming first. To be judged by the best nail magazine in the industry and then place massively boosted my confidence. It has helped me to believe that my work is progressing and to believe in myself and my abilities more.” www.crueltyfreeclawz.square.site /crueltyfreeclawz @cruelty_free_clawz

After votes were cast by the public, the winner of the Voter’s Choice accolade was announced as Steffi Fernandes. What’s the concept behind your image? “I found out about the competition during Pride month. Pride has always been close to my heart as some of my best friends have nearly lost their lives battling with bullying and hate crimes. The last few years have been tough and lonely for many so I wanted my design to spread a colourful and positive message of love and acceptance.” What did you enjoy most about entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “I have always enjoyed art, so getting creative, designing, and coming up with a concept was the best part for me. I wanted to do something slightly different while trying to include current trends and abstract designs.” How did you feel when you found out you had won the Voter’s Choice award? “I was at the Scratch stand at Olympia Beauty waiting for Chloe to announce the names, hoping to support the winner, I never expected it to be me! I remember spitting out my drink and looking at Chloe and asking – did you say my name?

Steffi Fernandes – Nottinghamshire, UK

“I genuinely entered for the love of nail art and never imagined people would vote for me; I am so grateful for the support. I am also incredibly thankful to my mum, who convinced me to go and network and support other competitors regardless of the results.” /steffi.fernandez

@steffijasminefernandez

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INDUSTRYINSIDER

Cosmetic THE

Climate Take note as The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) shares information about cosmetic traceability & transparency BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD

Head of scientific & environmental services at The CTPA

NOT THE END OF THE STORY: BIODEGRADABILITY, RECYCLING & ENVIRONMENTAL FATE What happens to cosmetics & packaging after use? The life of a cosmetic product has a beginning, a middle and an end; beginning from when ingredients are first grown or created to when the product is used and washed down the drain or evaporates into the air. The packaging also needs to be considered as part of this lifecycle – when a product has been used up, we dispose of the packaging. What happens to both the product and the packaging at the end of their life? Where do they go, and how is the cosmetics industry working to make sure this part of a cosmetic product’s life is as sustainable as possible?

What happens to the product? Thinking about the product itself rather than the packaging, some cosmetics end up in the bin and will therefore go to landfill, such as gels removed with foil wraps, or make-up removed with a cotton pad. Some will be washed down the drain, such as shampoo or even a small amount of cuticle oil or hand cream when you wash your hands. Others may evaporate, such as leave-on hair oil or perfume.

Hazard is a substance’s intrinsic potential to cause harm. For example, a shark is very hazardous because it has a great potential to cause harm. If you are swimming in the sea and a shark chases you, you are exposed to the hazard, so your risk is very high. However, if you are at an aquarium and watch the shark swimming behind glass, your exposure to the hazardous shark is very low, so you are at low risk.

Chemicals used in everyday products and situations can also have hazardous properties, but the important thing to determine is The purpose of whether they actually pose a risk or not. For example, if a an environmental risk hazardous substance ends up in the environment at a assessment is to make very low concentration (low exposure), the substance sure that the concentration might only present a low risk.

of the chemical in the Properly managing any hazardous properties of environment is lower than chemicals in terms of the way the chemical is the concentration, which used, where it ends up, and at what level, is vital would have a negative to ensure that the potential to cause harm does effect on the not translate into likelihood of causing harm. environment. Where in the environment the product and its ingredients What does biodegradable mean for a end up is an important consideration for cosmetics companies. cosmetic product? Environmental safety assessments ensure that wherever the product and its ingredients go, they will not pose an unacceptable risk.

What can sharks tell us about risk & hazard? To make sure that a cosmetic product is safe for the environment, companies need to consider any potential problems that the ingredients in the product could cause in the environment (hazard), and how much of the ingredients will end up in the environment (exposure). 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Cosmetic ingredients can break down in a number of different ways; by reacting with water, light or with biological species such as enzymes, which is called biodegradation. There are certain features of a chemical’s structure that can make it more biodegradable; for example, weaker areas within chemical molecules that are easier for water or enzymes to break apart. Environmental claims for cosmetic products and their packaging must follow the same requirements as all other cosmetic claims. This means that companies claiming their products are biodegradable need to have evidence to prove this. There are a number of standardised tests that can be used to find out whether cosmetic ingredients are biodegradable under different conditions.

INDUSTRYINSIDER It is important that tests are conducted for relevant conditions. For example, it doesn’t make sense to test aerobic degradation (breakdown in the presence of oxygen) if a cosmetic product is likely to be in a landfill site, because oxygen isn’t present in landfill sites. Similarly, tests relevant to the aquatic environment need to be conducted for cosmetic ingredients that will be rinsed down the drain, such as those in shampoo or shower gel.

What about product packaging? There is no doubt that packaging places a heavy burden on the environment, particularly plastic packaging waste. According to the sustainability charity WRAP, plastic packaging in the UK Effective accounts for nearly 70% of our plastic waste. However, that doesn’t mean that packaging always has to be packaging needs bad, unnecessary, or unsustainable. to protect the

product from being

Cosmetic packaging is designed to provide damaged, tampered protection against external factors and keep the CTPA is working with WRAP and Recycle with or spoiling. Now to help people locate cosmetic product in useable condition for as long as possible. For example, skincare that contains antioxidants, such as packaging takeback schemes. Take a look certain forms of vitamin C or retinol, will be packaged in dark or at the Recycling Locator tool on the WRAP opaque containers to protect them from the light. website to find your nearest location to recycle empty beauty product packaging. Packaging also protects the product from being damaged during storage and transport, and it needs to show safety information What happens to packaging when it is recycled? such as the list of ingredients (to help people with allergies) and Have you ever wondered what happens to your empties after they instructions for use. As well as being functional, it also needs to look disappear into the recycling bin? The British Plastics Federation nice and make us want to buy and use the product. explains that plastics will be taken to a sorting facility, where different methods such as hand-sorting, sorting by materials which Unlike food, cosmetics packaging is unusual in that it must also float or sink, or using infrared light to sense different types of plastic be durable, as we use most products for several weeks, months, are used. The sorted plastics are then cleaned, ground into small or even years. Packaging may also be integral in enhancing the pellets and remoulded into new plastics, ready to be sold to performance of the product; for example, the width and flexibility different manufacturers for use in all sorts of different applications. of the brush within a nail polish. The pressure and nozzle size of an These steps won’t all take place at the same facility. aerosol self-tan spray can will influence whether you end up with a finely-misted even result, or a tiger stripe tan! Top tips for recycling packaging Recycling systems do vary between local authorities, so it’s best to check on your local council’s website, or WRAP’s Recycle Now website, to find out exactly what and how you can recycle where you live. Here are some top tips to help make sure your recycling efforts aren’t wasted: • If there are any statements on the product about recyclability/ biodegradability or compostability, check whether they are referring to the product contents or a specific part of the packaging. Obvious areas • Don’t put compostable or biodegradable plastics for improvements in into your normal recycling. recycling rates include • Squashing plastic bottles helps make sure they don’t ensuring that more fall off the processing line at the recycling plant. packaging is recyclable, • Rinsing out empty containers before recycling increasing the consistency makes sure the material doesn’t get contaminated. of waste collections across • You don’t need to remove plastic lids from the country, and improved plastic bottles before recycling them. • Check whether recyclable plastic bottles require Packaging recycling recyclability labelling you to remove the plastic film sleeve first. According to WRAP, the recycling rate in England on products. quadrupled from 11% to 44% between 2000 and 2020. However, this figure hasn’t been increasing very much over the past few years. The government aims to achieve a recycling rate of 65% by 2035. To achieve this target, action needs to be taken According to British Glass, three quarters of glass is already by packaging manufacturers, businesses, us as users of products, recycled in the UK. Glass from recycling bins is taken to a and the government. special treatment facility where it is sorted into different colours,

DID YOU KNOW…?

The cosmetics industry is playing its part to help achieve this target. By working with partners such as packaging designers, recycling charities and waste processors, companies are able to design products that require less packaging and ensure this packaging is easily recyclable. For example, this might mean making packaging from just one type of plastic, or using colours that are easily detected by the waste sorting facility. For smaller products or those that contain lots of different components, companies are setting up initiatives such as takeback schemes.

washed, crushed and melted. The molten glass is remoulded into its new shape for its new application. Glass is endlessly recyclable – it can be melted time and time again without any reduction in quality. However, this requires a lot of energy that has to be taken into consideration when designing a product to be as sustainable as possible. www.ctpa.org.uk / www.thefactsabout.co.uk

@thectpa

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

WWW.NAILSBYANNABEL.CO.UK

INDUSTRYINSIGHT

SPOTLIGHT ON…

Vegan Beauty Scratch marks World Vegan Month with a focus on what’s required of nail & beauty brands to gain vegan-friendly status…

whopping 82% of all new vegan items that launched in the UK in 2020 fell under the beauty category*, with our industry moving faster than any other to adapt to conscious consumers. But what is ‘vegan beauty’ and how can you identify if a product is vegan-friendly?

The Vegan Society coined the word ‘vegan’ back in 1944 and supports ‘a philosophy and way of living that seeks to exclude – as far as is possible and practicable – all forms of exploitation of, and cruelty to, animals for food, clothing or any other purposes. ‘By extension, it promotes the development and use of animal-free alternatives for the benefit of humans, animals and the environment.’ Cosmetics and toiletries can contain animal products for reasons including colouring, binding or to create certain textures or finishes, and there is no legal requirement for brands or manufacturers to declare this on product packaging or in their ingredient lists. The Society manages The Vegan Trademark, the international vegan standard, which helps users to identify products that are free from animal ingredients. Brands have to go through a rigorous application 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

process that is checked by The Vegan Society against a number of criteria before they can achieve this trademark. The Society works with manufacturers and suppliers to ensure that products meet the highest vegan standards, and registration with the trademark gives brands confidence to shout about their vegan credentials. “Our robust Vegan Trademark standards include ensuring that products are free from animal ingredients, including the development of genetically modified organisms and minimisation of cross-contamination,” explains Francine Jordan, media & PR officer at The Vegan Society. “In addition, products granted the trademark are free Fancine Jordan from animal exploitation in development, production, and during manufacturing. They are also free from animal testing at the company’s initiative, or on its behalf, as far as is possible and practical. “When beauty and nail brands register their products with us, they are telling their customers that they are committed to providing a range of products that meet our standards; free from animal ingredients and animal testing. Their customers can be confident that the products are suitable for vegans.

FACT FILE

“Not only can this help build trust and promote the product’s credentials through the brand’s own platforms, but they also have the opportunity to access our huge audience of vegan and vegan-curious consumers who are looking for products such as theirs.”

A report by The Vegan Society has revealed that 97% of British shoppers want more vegan-verified cosmetics and toiletries.

INDUSTRYINSIGHT Ingredient info Between 2014 and 2019, there was a 175% increase in vegan cosmetic launches globally. The Vegan Trademark is reviewed every 12 to 24 months to ensure brands and products are continuing to meet the standards required.

FACT FILE 29% of people surveyed by The Vegan Society want to see more vegan-verified nail products.

Some of the most common ingredients derived from animals that can be found in nail and beauty products include: • Animal hair – Often found in make-up brushes. • Cichineal dye/Carmine dye – Also listed as natural red 4, E120 and C.I 75470 on product packaging. This can be found in a lot of lipsticks, blushes, nail polishes or anything else that mimics the classic rouge colour. It is created by crushing insects called cochineals. • Collagen – A protein that can be taken from the bones, skin, ligaments and tissues of cows. Plant-based, ethical alternatives include soya protein and almond oil. • Estrogen – A hormone that may be added to anti-ageing creams to increase their effectiveness. It is obtained by extracting urine from pregnant horses. • Keratin – A popular ingredient to aid the strengthening of hair and nails. This protein is often derived from the hair and horns of various animals, most commonly farmyard animals. • Lanolin – Used in lip balms, lipsticks and glosses, this is derived from sheep’s wool. • Shellac – The shells of Lac bugs, used to create a hardwearing, shiny finish. Note: CND Shellac™ is named so in honour of these qualities, and not because it contains this ingredient. • Tallow – This ingredient can be found in soap, foundation, nail polish and eye make-up. Also known as oleic acid, oleyl stearate and oleyl oleate, it is made from the fat of farmyard animals.

Animal testing To gain The Vegan Trademark, products must not involve or have involved testing of any sort on animals by parties over whom the company has effective control. In 1993, an EU directive was passed which contained a ban on the sale of animal-tested cosmetic products. To give adequate time to find nonanimal methods, the deadline for the ban to come into effect was 1 January 1998. However, due to multiple delays this did not happen until 11 March 2013. Many other countries are following suit and are in the process of phasing out animal testing, including Mexico, Russia, Canada, Japan and South Africa. In May 2021 it was announced that China would end the mandatory animal testing requirements for imported ‘general’ cosmetics, such as shampoos, body wash and makeup. Previously, China required animal testing of all cosmetics by law but now, products that do not have claims such as ‘anti-ageing’ or ‘anti-acne’ will not need to go through mandatory animal testing when imported. China has also approved two non-animal methods of cosmetic testing. “However, there are concerns that legislation in the UK could change for the worse,” reveals The Vegan Society in its Vegan Beauty Takeover report 2021. “Media reports state that government ministers may be reconsidering this strict policy to align with development within the European Union.” *Data from analytics firm, Edited.

FACT FILE Market intelligence platform, MarketGlass , predicts that the global vegan cosmetic industry will be worth $21.4 billion by 2027.

THE TOP 10 MOST INSTAGRAMMED VEGAN BEAUTY BRANDS

End of Tenancy London has released data that showcases which vegan beauty brands are considered the most Instagrammable. A list of 23 crueltyfree, vegan beauty brands were extracted from PETA’s official listing, and then each brand was input into Instagram, with the number of appearing hashtags recorded. 1. NCLA 2. Le Labo 3. Arbonne 4. SpaRitual 5. Pacifica 6. Spectrum Collections 7. skyn ICELAND 8. Dr. Botanicals 9. Billy Jealousy 10. Nanshy

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS The FNP chair, MARIAN NEWMAN, shares updates on the Federation’s membership programme & forward moves

A TASTE OF WHAT’S TO COME

t has been such a busy year for #TheFeds team since the launch of the FNP’s Supporter Membership. The biggest challenge has been securing patrons that would financially support the organisation before we could launch the full membership. Fortunately, we have been so lucky to receive help from OPI, Glitterbels and Bio Sculpture Gel GB, and more recently, a new benefactor; John Ribchester of Global Travel Mask. We hope more will join them in the very near future as it is essential for our survival.

there should be a huge expansion of details on www.the-fnp.com with more to come.

meets with our intention to be ‘the voice of the industry’ and also to provide our members with valuable assets and education. We also need to reach the consumer so that potential clients can see just how fabulous our members are.

scheme for members and the DofE on the new approach of T Levels and increasing the funding provision for Nail Services apprentices. Plus many, many more that give The FNP a seat at many tables as the only dedicated ‘voice of the nail industry’.

We have come a very long way but still have a long way to go. This is all thanks to some board members spending hundreds of (voluntary) hours fitting it all in between clients and late into the evenings. The bulk of this work along with the project management has been down to Alex Cassells, with help from Sue Davies, Donna Clayton and Jennie Nippard when needed. I am IT illiterate but have been doing plenty of other things! By the time you read this,

I know many reading this won’t find these projects exciting, but I do, hence the ‘stuff’ that I do behind the scenes. Some of you may be aware of the John Cleese ‘Meetings bl***y meetings’ approach? Well, that is my life – but there are plenty of genuinely exciting things happening, too. I hope by now many of you will understand what The FNP is about. But we are also about bringing what is needed directly to the sector.

In other news, there has been a lot going on behind the scenes. We have been working with Habia on a few exciting projects alongside a (relatively) new awarding body that will help address some of the education issues in the sector. I regularly attend meetings of the Beauty Industry Group (B.I.G), a collection of the main industry associations which meets to discuss and plan the approach of major issues within the wider sector. The British Beauty Council has many ongoing and new initiatives that I am usually involved in. The huge project of reviewing the National Occupational Standards has also been completed with over 100 NOS rewritten (21 for Nail Services with the possibility of some new and advanced standards to come).

“We are determined to create a resource that Our next big challenge was to get a very complicated website designed and built. meets with our intention If anyone has been involved in a project like this, you will understand what a to be ‘the voice of the challenge it is. Ours has been industry’ and also to a headache and, at the time of writing, is still ongoing with phase three provide our members about to launch and phase four only with valuable assets just beginning. We have been working with BABTAC on our and education.” collaboration to offer a reciprocal discount We are determined to create a resource that

36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

A WARM WELCOME

The FNP is delighted to welcome Global Travel Mask, a John Ribchester Consultancy Ltd product, as a benefactor! The ‘Madgette’s’ among you will remember how helpful John was during the 2020 lockdown. He has no direct connection with the sector but wants to support the ongoing work that has sprung from ‘Madge’s Chat Show’ that has morphed into #thefeds.

About John Ribchester & Global Travel Mask Passionate about technical textiles, with over 30 years’ experience in the industry, John is a qualified textile and polymer engineer who operates globally as a consultant for front end innovation on fabrics and PPE. “My core focus has always been associated with protection and helping to keep people safe,” he comments. “Almost 16 years ago, I developed a high performance face mask for travelling as friends and family were consistently becoming ill after travelling – especially on aeroplanes and on the London Unde rground.

“We are shaking things up; we know our industry, we listen Here are some of the we’ve been to our industry and projects involved in: provide our industry • We attended Olympia Beauty, London (with our with what it wants new banners!) to talk to attendees and needs.” of the FNP. and raise awareness • We attended Professional Beauty with a stand populated by board members and some of our expert volunteers, and created and hosted a new nail competition format (12 categories over two days) with some amazing prizes provided by our supportive brands. We also hosted the live Nail Stage. • We are getting ready to present our first live event, The Feds Seminar/Social, on 5 December in central London that we hope to repeat a few times a year around the country. It will feature a series of short informative and educational seminars followed by a social event for meeting and networking. For more details, check out The FNP Community Group on Facebook. • Our biggest initiative is planned for early next year and is a focused ‘experiential’ event that we truly believe will give the nail sector exactly what it wants. Interested? You should be! Details will follow so prepare to be excited. We are shaking things up; we know our industry, we listen to our industry and provide our industry with what it wants and needs – even if it didn’t know it needed it!

JOIN US!

Please join us as a member or patron, benefactor or friend. As a member with discounts available on every event, you will make your fee back easily within the year (and there will be goody bags on occasion, too!). www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

“With the onset of Covid-19, we went back to the design room and created a face mask specifically for today’s requirements to provide protection against Covid-19. The Global Pandemic Mask has just completed its first limited UK based production run.”

The Global Pandemic Mask • Is fully washable with no need to replace filters. The filter system in initial testing indicates above 80% filtration. • Has a silver based anti-viral (specific formulation against Covid) that kills Covid-19 in several minutes. • Uses two loops of shot cord with easily adjustable toggles for the back of the head for greater comfort. • Has a bendy plastic nose piece that holds the form to the shape of your nose which is almost impossible to break. • Has a built-in cooling system that works on evaporative cooling, so the more you perspire the more the mask cools. • Comes with its own storage bag that is also treated with the technology that kills Covid-19 in minutes. “Lots of people are now used to wearing masks but not used to the correct procedures of donning and doffing,” comments John. “Where do you put you mask when you take it off? Just think about how potentially contaminated it could be and take note that Covid-19 can stay around for weeks on some surfaces. If you put it in your pocket or on your dinner table it could infect everything. “I have been aware of a number of people who have become seriously ill, while working in the nail industry through dust inhalation and chemical exposure. It is an industry that I feel has been almost under the radar with regards to awareness and solid technical advice on how to maximise protection. I know how passionate the FNP is and I want to assist in any way I can. “We need to educate people and to me the FNP and its members are a perfect vehicle to do this.” www.globaltravelmask.co.uk @the_fnp_

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

Enter the world’s biggest nail competition from the comfort of your salon! 13 fantastic competition categories to choose from including: • • • • • • • • • • •

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s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , u r st a r st yl e … yo it su to s n g si p ic ks & d e BIRTHDAY FOCUS Ruri Castillo Kanei

Ruri Castillo Kanei of Harajuku Nails started her industry journey in 2014. She celebrates her birthday on 31 October, falling under the Scorpio star sign. “I love being able to create exactly what’s on my mind into a nail art design,” Ruri enthuses. “I love that there are no limits as to what you can create with nails. “Scorpio is said to be the most intense and dedicated star sign, which I feel defines the passion for the things we love. In my case, it’s nails!” /HarajukuNails

@harajuku_nails @harajuku_nails serves up this gorgeously glittery tribute to her star sign, Scorpio!

Scorpio

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

Happy birthday, Scorpio! Embrace who you are and be yourself. Find confidence and self-love by opting for a romantic pink shade on your nails. Nailchemy Origin Hard Gel in Cover Pink £16.50 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Sa arius

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

November is a busy time for Sagittarius, with organisation and attention to detail being key focuses for the month. Wearing a dark hue can help you Halo Gel Polish in Empire stay grounded. State £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

Aquarius

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18

Big decisions and positive changes await Aquarius this season. November shifts the home and family into the forefront of your life, so make extra time for your personal relationships.

Taurus

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

New experiences and expanding horizons await Taureans this month. Keep positive as you push yourself out of your comfort zone by reaching for yellow tones. Magnetic Gel Polish in Champagne Yellow £14.80 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

Leo

JULY 23 – AUGUST 22

This month is an active and stimulating time for Leo. Reach for red nail shades to NexGenNails Dip Powder embrace the excitement in C34 Seattle £23 inc VAT that this month will bring. www.gopretty.co.uk

40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Pisces

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

November is an exciting time to look ahead and make future plans for Pisces, bringing positive energy towards new projects within your professional life. Opt for a positive and uplifting shade of purple.

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Midnight Feast from £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Gemini

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

Focus on personal relationships this month, Gemini. It’s time to build and improve connections with those around you.

Virgo

AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

Your efforts this year will come to fruition this November. Remember to keep a healthy balance between work and home life as your career progresses.

Capricorn

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

This month is the best time for you to show off your talents! You’ll start seeing greater recognition in your career, but don’t neglect your hobbies.

Aries

MARCH 21 – APRIL 19

November brings work and career into focus for Aries this month. Utilise social media and technology to help boost your business.

Cancer

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

Don’t forget to prioritise yourself and your time this month, as new opportunities begin to present themselves. Reflect on this time to transform and sparkle with a glittering nail hue. CND SHELLAC™ in Statement Earrings £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Libra

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22 November will keep you on your toes if you fall under the sign of Libra. Keep your energy alive with orange tones this month. Kinetics SolarGel Nail Polish in #511 Golden Hour £8.25 inc VAT www.bellabooprobeauty www.kineticsnails.co.uk

SEASONALIDEAS

Christmas retail:

unwrapped! ‘Tis the season to be jolly, so offer retail gifts to suit your clients’ Christmas lists & hear your tills ring with joy EMMA HOBDAY REPORTS

Think it’s too early? Far from it – Magda Gniewek, Magnetic Nail Design expert educator, says that as many as a quarter of your clients who want to Magda Gniewek purchase products in your salon for Christmas will do so in November.

And it’s not just the salon to think about – consider adding products to your website, Facebook or Instagram page Zaara King for clients who prefer to do their Christmas shopping online. “I’d recommend marketing Christmas retail in autumn and using an online store to drive sales, as well as having the retail items on display clearly where clients can see them from November onwards,” says Zaara King, beauty therapist and founder of beauty support group, The Beauty Build. “When marketing Christmas retail items via social media or email, always talk to the ideal client and lead with the problem it solves or the feelings and benefits it creates, both for the client and their loved ones.”

“Prepare your gifts for Christmas and take advantage of the weeks before Black Friday and Cyber Monday, as once your customers start shopping online for discounted products, you could miss out on extra revenue,” says Magda. “Make sure your salon is ready and start offering and advertising Christmas gifts as early as possible.”

In addition, research by Royal Mail found that most online shopping was conducted on smartphones throughout the day, with use peaking on laptops in the evening. The study also found that 22% of consumers are likely to purchase something after seeing it on social media, particularly younger shoppers and women.

Ariana Davies, founder of Nostos Candles, agrees, recommending that nail and beauty pros begin stocking up for Christmas as soon as possible. “Get the Ariana Davies biggest window of opportunity you can; many customers are opportunists and will start their Christmas shopping as the items that fit the bill appear,” she advises. “All customers shop for Christmas at different times, so make sure you have plenty of gifts in stock to last the whole season.”

The use of social networks to shop online is gaining popularity, with 48% of younger shoppers, 29% of women and 38% of people living in urban areas among the groups who are significantly more likely to buy something after seeing it on social media.

Deck your salon walls, string some twinkling fairy lights and spruce up your Christmas tree – it’s time to pull in some additional profit this season by serving up fabulously festive retail offerings. With the Christmas and party season well on the way, make the most of this prime time for clients who are in Christmas shopping mode by offering irresistible gift sets, stocking fillers and advent calendars for themselves or their loved ones.

Merry marketing

“Social media is the number one tool for marketing within the industry these days, with Instagram and TikTok being two of the biggest platforms,” says Elissa Newton CND™ EA, Elissa Newton. ”Take advantage of these platforms. Many clients will begin shopping early in the months leading up to Christmas, so start now with a few small products near the work area. Talk about how fabulous the sets are and how they can come in handy for gifts, or for the friend who always likes their nails to be in top shape.” Don’t hold back – for many businesses, Christmas is the most important time of year, and one of the rare occasions where you can justify direct selling on your social media pages. Make sure you engage, engage and engage again – it’s called social media for a reason! Canva and Animoto are great platforms for creating your own content. Samantha Kendrew, training & development manager at BeautyLab, says that salon owners should start marketing Christmas retail products

Whether you’re in the salon, working online or bossing social media, we’ve got you covered with expert advice from those who know how to give your salon a happy and successful Christmas. Samantha Kendrew

42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SEASONALIDEAS

Countdown to Christmas

Offer an alternative to traditional chocolate advent calendars and get clients excited about Christmas with a beauty-themed advent calendar. OPI Nail Lacquer 25-piece Advent Calendar (3.5ml each) £38.69 + VAT/RRP £69.90 www.trade.opiuk.com

Mad Beauty POM POM 12 Days of Christmas Advent Calendar £6.99 + VAT/RRP £13.99 www.madbeauty.com

Mad Beauty 12 Days of Men’s Bath & Body Luxuries £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.99 www.madbeauty.com

Nimue Advent Calendar £49.95 + VAT/RRP £99 www.sweetsquared.com

as soon as they can, as most clients will start to think about what gifts they will be purchasing. “Communicate via e-newsletters and creative content on social media platforms, including images or videos. Organise virtual or in-person promotional Christmas events and offer wishlists to clients at the end of their appointments,” she comments. Promotional Christmas events have been perfected by Louella Belle educator & brand ambassador, Sharon Baker. “I’ve always held Sharon Baker an open night in my salon, which has become a tradition that marks Christmas in the salon for staff and clients. We do this towards the end of November, making sure all the decorations are up ready for the night, with mulled wine and mince pies on arrival,” she smiles. “Along with our Christmas gift sets, we also offer mini treatments as a quick taster! Clients like to watch and try before they buy.” Sharon charges a £5 attendance fee which is donated to a local charity. “This is a good way to gauge an idea of how many people to expect, and also people are more likely to remember to come along!”

Sell by scent

Burn a festive candle on your reception desk (away from any flammable products, of course) to get clients in the Christmas spirit as soon as they walk through the door. Once they comment on the scent, let them know that you offer the candle for sale so they can take the festive feel home…

CND™ Wild Romantics Candle £10 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Noble Isle Dram of Whisky Candles £POA/RRP up to £75 www.nobleisle.com

Nostos Candles on display at Gorgeous Nail & Beauty Emporium, Bexley, Kent

Nostos Candles Winter Berries & Candy Cane Candles £3.50 + VAT/RRP £5.50-£6.50 each www.nostoscandles.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43

SEASONALIDEAS

Why, when & how to upsell

How to dress your salon window

When? Tom O’Brien, director at Baroque Hair says: “Assess the situation. If the customer has made it clear that they’re on a budget, or that they’re only after one product or service, or are in a hurry, then don’t force anything on them. They may feel pushed into purchasing and be wary of your commitment to them as a client.”

Francesca advises assessing each window individually before dressing it. “I try to have a key focal point and theme, and include some products you sell in a creative and eye-catching way. Don’t feel you need to stick to a beauty theme; it’s sometimes good to think outside of the box to create a different scheme that people will talk about!”

How? Select products that are most relevant to your services and your clients’ needs, and ensure that they are well placed in your premises to attract attention. Customers want to touch, feel, smell and browse products at their leisure. Creating a retail space in the waiting area or in view of the nail desk is the perfect way to expose them to what you offer.

The talented window dresser says that there are so many places to source decorations for windows. “Pinterest is my best friend for inspiration, and the Internet and local high street stores have created so many opportunities for us all, especially at Christmas time! However, if budget allows, I would recommend hiring a professional window dresser to help come up with ideas, sourcing and dressing.” www.rossetti.london

Francesca Rossetti, stylist and visual merchandiser, recommends dressing your salon windows in November. “Look at the timings of any local Christmas light switch-ons. If your salon is situated on a high street, try to dress your windows a few days before a light switch-on as this usually generates crowds, interest and free marketing.”

Why? Recommending an item during a treatment can not only increase your bottom line dramatically, but entice clients to try something new. When they see its benefits or enjoy its results, their faith in you will grow – as will their loyalty. A happy client is a returning one!

Seasonal selling & gifting “Christmas is your chance to pull back some of that lost revenue from the pandemic,” comments Elissa Newton. “Retail gift sets from brands come prepackaged which saves time and money. If your gift sets look appealing, you’ll find clients will be instantly interested and start planning who to gift it to.” Samantha Kendrew also acknowledges that Christmas 2020 will still be at the forefront of some customers’ minds. “Clients will be looking forward to the experience of giftgiving this Christmas due to the pandemic affecting Christmas last year,” says Samantha. “BeautyLab gift sets represent excellent value and are a perfect way to introduce the brand to a new client or link-sell after a treatment.”

Shopping for the gift itself is just as pleasurable, according to Jane Dickinson, director at Cuccio. “Gift sets bring excitement, with the thought of Christmas coming and another difficult year soon to be over, plus they are a discussion topic,” she says. “You should have something beautiful ready for that special ad hoc gift that your customer doesn’t even know they need yet!”

Cuccio Spa Essentials Intensive Hydration & Exfoliation Kits £21.99 + VAT/RRP £32.99 each www.cuccio.co.uk

BeautyLab® Refresh & Calm Skin Therapy Set £14 + VAT/RRP £28 www.gerrardinternational.com

The gift of giving self-care and relaxation has increased in the priority list this year, and nail and beauty products and sets are a great way for clients to help loved ones take some time out for themselves over the busy Christmas period, which is important. When you buy someone a beauty gift you’re buying them all those moments to themselves where they’ll pause and unwind. 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

All That Jazz Maple Spice Gift Set £10.99 + VAT/RRP £15.99 www.gsgroupuk.com

Sharon Baker has found that clients like to create a wishlist for their friends and family, so they can receive a gift they want and would use. “It’s a great way to add additional income when you are too busy to add new clients to the salon,” she says. “Gift sets that sell well in my experience are things like nailcare sets such as oils and hand creams, as well as scrubs and rich moisturisers to combat dry winter skin,” comments Zaara King. “Sets that people can easily gift to others are also a great idea too, like foot pamper gifts.”

Mii Luxe To Last Gift Set in Mixed Blessings + Mostly Modest £12.25 + VAT/RRP £24.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

Nourish London Lemon & Black Pepper Handcare Duo £11.46 + VAT/RRP £25 www.nourishskinrange.com

SEASONALIDEAS CND Vinylux™ Merry Manicure Bauble £7.45 + VAT/RRP £14.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Noble Isle Botanist’s Bouquet Gift Set £POA/RRP £27 www.nobleisle.com

Jessica Phenom But First Coffee Gift Set £27 + VAT/RRP £54 www.gerrardinternational.com

OPI Nail Lacquer 10-piece Mini Icons Set £17.80 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Nimue Power Resurfacing Duo Gift Set £34.45 + VAT/RRP £69 each www.sweetsquared.com

Light Elegance Christmas Gift Set £6.45 + VAT/RRP £12.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Festive displays

Retailing in the run-up to Christmas can attract prospective clients – if your window display catches the eye and draws them into your premises. If you have a glass front, spruce it up with some decorations and clear signage to promote your retail offerings. Famous Names Dadi’Oil

“In my opinion, the £7.50 + VAT/RRP £15 nicest gift sets are www.louellabelle.co.uk products of the same brand that you are already using in the Joanna Figasinska salon,” comments Joanna Figasinska, trainer & Magnetic Nail Design distributor for Ireland. “It looks professional and customers appreciate that you are sharing some of the goodies that you are using for treatments. “I find putting together little pamper kits sell really well, like a hand kit with cuticle oils, a hand scrub and a hand cream,” says Sharon Baker. “I use the Dadi’Oil or Footlogix range which come in different sizes, so I offer a minis set and then put a more luxury set together. I tend to use products in the gift sets that we use in the salon so that way we carry on using anything we don’t sell. Other items that do not have a shelf life, I put away for the following year, run a January offer or run little competitions throughout the year.”

Once the client is inside, consider a glass closed cabinet in the salon to display products near reception, or near the entrance and exit. “These cabinets are great to keep product clean and free of dust,” comments Elissa Newton. “Nail salons harbour so much dust it’s difficult to maintain open cabinets. It might also be nice to offer a few on display near the nail desk so you can talk about the products within the kits as you’re using them on your client.” “Choose a visible area to position your items, but make sure it’s not in the client’s way,” Joanna Figasinska advises. “Place near the checkout, or use shelves or glass cabinets. I prefer to display something for add-on sale on the salon shelves (all year round, not only at Christmas) instead of an entire collection of polishes.” Sharon Baker finds that having a little Christmas tree in the salon with gift sets around the bottom of the tree works well. “It looks lovely and is in view for all clients to see! Having clear prices on display helps also, as not everyone feels comfortable asking without feeling they then need to purchase. I have definitely sold more sets this way, along with sharing everything on my social pages all the way through the Christmas season.” “You need to decide on the key areas where clients’ eyes focus. Think about how you want the client to act,” adds Susan Routledge, esteemed salon & spa business consultant. “You may choose one area or a selection of smaller display areas. Do you want them to test the products, touch and feel the packaging, or view from afar? Look to your suppliers for nice imagery and display stands for a professional feel.”

Overstock issues

“I usually gift overstock to my family and friends, break down for freebies to use in my loyalty programme, or put back on sale in the New Year with a small discount,” comments Zaara King. “If you think you have overstocked, then pro-actively link sell the products with treatments or gift vouchers before Christmas rather than panicking in the New Year,” suggests Susan Routledge.

“Consider a flash sale in which you add value to popular products with a special package price. This way you aren’t hampering regular sales by deep discounting, just enhancing and encouraging more sales with an added value offer.” Jane Dickinson adds: “In regard to overstock, break gift sets down for normal stock holding. Not all Christmas retail gift sets will be branded as Christmassy, so you could also keep these for a short period of time to sell as gift sets anyway.”

Susan Routledge

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

SEASONALIDEAS

Stocking fillers

Encourage last-minute sales by the till with bowls of stocking filler sized items; the perfect takeaway after a mani/pedi treatment. Pop a few in your window display to catch the eyes of passers-by. OPI Nail Lacquer 4-piece Mini Cracker £10.90 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Kinetics Professional Rich Cream Hand Cream £9.50 inc VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk Mii Eyes To Envy Gift Set in Hidden Treasure £15 + VAT/RRP £30 www.gerrardinternational.com

Jessica Custom Colour Meet For Drinks Box Set £33 + VAT/RRP £55 www.gerrardinternational.com

INK London Fresh Cuticle Oil £2.08 + VAT www.inknails.com

CND™ Christmas Detox Duo £13.95 + VAT/RRP £29.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Top retail tips

By Tammy Koslowski, NAF! Stuff & NAF! PRO founder • Showcase your retail offering at your workspace by using products during your Tammy Koslowski treatments, and have plenty of stock by your till (or wherever you take payments) or on a shelf behind you, so your clients look directly at them throughout the treatment. • If you have a waiting area, it’s a great place to pop testers and have some info cards as conversation prompts. • Ensure you don’t just have one item on your shelf, as it doesn’t look shoppable. You should have at least three of the same item on the shelf so that clients feel comfortable removing the item to look at it. • Incorporate your retail items into your services, as it gives you the golden opportunity to show your clients how the products feel and smell, as well as showing them how to use it and explaining the benefits.

How to retail as a mobile tech Morgan Taylor Sing 2 Nail Lacquer Shades in Coming Up Crystal & Miss Crawly Chic £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 each www.louellabelle.co.uk

By Jo Tompkins, founder, Nail Business Success Club

Salon System NaturalLash LashLux in 006 £4.75 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Spongellé Holiday Stars Body Buffers in & Peace (Lychee Ice) £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Mad Beauty Retro Christmas Wind-Up Hand Cream £2.99 + VAT/RRP £5.99 www.madbeauty.com

Keysie Nail Savers Pastels (4pk) from £3.33 + VAT www.clubtags.co.uk

STEP 1: BEFORE THE APPOINTMENT

You won’t be able to carry around a huge selection of items when working mobile, so try out a selection of about five items to start with. Write out a list of each product, the RRP, the features of the product and the benefits to the client. The more you know about each product, the easier it will be to chat to your client about it and it will seem less like a sales pitch. Jo Tompkins

STEP 2: DURING THE TREATMENT

Talk about your products and offerings to clients during the treatment in a relaxed, non-pushy way. Do not push products on to those who do not need them. Keep samples of retail-friendly hand and nail products in your kit so clients can look, feel and smell the products before they purchase.

STEP 3: PAYMENT

HairGain Hair Mask (3pk) £46.79 + VAT/RRP £96 www.gerrardinternational.com 46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAF! PRO Autumn Nail & Cuticle Oils £5.50 + VAT/RRP £8 each www.nafprofessionals.com

‘ Skin ManiPedi Cream Peacci £6.50 + VAT/RRP £10 www.peacci.com

If the client hasn’t advised you by this stage whether they would like to purchase the products you’ve recommended, then you’ll need to ask for the sale. It may seem a little awkward to start with but just remember you’re not pushing anything on anyone; you are trying to help them. I simply ask ‘Would you like to get the XYZ today?’ To build your confidence, start with one small retail item and once you have mastered selling that, move on to the next.

Professional Training Nails, Beauty & Holistic Venues available across the UK Online training still available Visit our website to see our extensive course list and training dates. u u u,l _gjaf ck w,am,s i

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST COLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT…

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owing to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry.

For a full nail art video tutorial of Chan’s design and to gain access to over 210 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

“All our dreams can come true, if we have the courage to pursue them.” Walt Disney 48 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

ey you, I hope you’re well? I can’t believe it’s November already. This year has flown by! I really enjoy speaking to you each month via Scratch, and I’m honestly so grateful for every single message you send saying that you enjoy my articles. If you are reading this right now and have things in life you want to do but keep putting off, this is your time to go for it. Book that course, plan that dream nail space or get your insurance in line – just go for it. With only two months left of 2021, I want this article to be your reminder that you still have time to make this year a great one. All of the goals you set in January are still possible. If you’ve started putting wheels into motion, you are well on your way – or if you haven’t even started yet, there is still time for you to make some bold and exciting moves that your future self will thank you for. If you haven’t got any goals so far.... set some. So much can change in two months! Think about the results you’d love to see for yourself by the end of the year. Do you want to seriously open your own salon in the New Year? Maybe you want to train with a nail brand you’ve been following for ages, do a one-toone class with a nail technician you admire, or consistently keep practicing your skills so you can excel in an area of your career. One of my favourite quotes is ‘one day, or day one?’. You are in charge of your destiny. It’s truly never too late to start something, set that intention and make yourself proud. I know that life can get in the way sometimes. The day-to-day tasks we need to do take over, and the list of things we wrote about doing during lockdown when we had spare time has fallen to the bottom of the pile – with the things we have to do taking over again. However, I truly want you to know that your dreams matter,

your goals are achievable and that it’s never too late to start or complete something that you want or that is important to you. • Decide what you want. Go big and be bold! • Write it down. See it and re-read it. This will help you stay focused. • Tell someone you trust what your plans are so that you have a sense of accountability. This is a really good way to keep motivated. • Break it down into manageable chunks and daily tasks. This will help you not to feel overwhelmed. • Plan your first steps so you have a starting point. • Get going… and keep going! It’s great to make other people proud, but it’s so important to make yourself proud too. I’m rooting for you!

Love always, Chan x TECH TALK

Chicago-based Aiste aka @heygreatnails is an artist that I’m always excited to watch. Her work is phenomenal and the designs that she comes up with are so precise and detailed. The way she films and creates her content is something I truly admire; she is one of my biggest inspirations. Tell me about your nail industry journey… “I always loved getting my nails done and have adored nail art since I was a child. I started my Instagram nail art page in late 2019/early 2020 and used time brought on by the pandemic to practice the craft.”

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP-BY-STEP: FIREWORK FANCIES I have fallen in love with the reflective glitter trend and had a flashback to a striking design by nail artist, Learnah Starbuck, from November 2020. I just had to recreate it, and it’s fitting for Bonfire Night. Thank you for always inspiring me Learnah! Step 1 Apply gel polish base coat from your chosen system and cure, followed by two coats of a dark gel polish shade, curing between each coat. Apply a blooming gel or in this step-by-step, I have applied a coat of Magie Beauty’s Rubber Up to work in the same way. Do not cure. Step 2 Mix a small amount of a loose reflective glitter (such as Eclipse from Magpie Beauty) with some base coat and a small amount of coloured jelly polish to create coloured reflective sparkles. You can also use a ready-mixed reflective gel polish range, such as the Brillbird Hypnotic range, if desired.

Step 4 Using a highly pigmented white gel polish and a nail art brush, apply a dot in the centre of the glitter bloom and pull out four lines to create a star. Cure and then apply top coat.

“I use nails as a tiny canvas to tell my stories. I love sharing my knowledge and inspiring people, but not everyone has the confidence to share their work. It’s not easy to overcome your fears of being exposed, aware of your imperfections like skin textures, finger length, nail shapes, or even the fact that people will be judging your creative abilities and ideas. I’m self-conscious too and I doubt myself sometimes just like we all do in our moments of weakness. Seeing people be

Full credit for this month’s look goes to @polishedbylearnahstarbuck. She is a nail queen; her nail art looks are always incredible and unique.

Nails by Learnah Starbuck @polishedbylearnahstarbuck

Step 3 Add a drop of the mix created in Step 2 to the uncured blooming gel layer. Then use a different colour to add a second dot inside the dot you just created so you get two colours in each firework. Leave for a few seconds to ‘bloom’ and then cure.

What do you love about being a nail technician? “It’s such a creative and rewarding career. Nail art allows me to express myself; I can be ‘me’ and get creative, which is almost like a therapy. I can lose track of time when I’m creating nail designs and love that nail art allows you to make a statement, show who you are or just complement a look or accessory. Through nails, you can connect with like-minded people or people who you never knew would appreciate your art. You can raise awareness, educate, or share a story through nail design.

inspired by me and watching them follow their own creative journeys, improve their skills, build confidence, and empower themselves through nail art is something that keeps me going. It’s really rewarding and I absolutely love it.” What are your favourite looks to create? “I absolutely love modern and abstract designs. I usually like experimenting with new things I haven’t tried before and creating something that looks trendy.” What advice would you give to fellow techs? “Believe in yourself and practice. Skills don’t just happen overnight and there are no shortcuts. It’s the process and invested time that matters the most. You can’t build something of quality without a good foundation. My advice is to challenge yourself to things that scare you and you think you can’t achieve. You will surprise yourself! This will only help to improve your

skills and everything will just get easier every time you try.” If you could only have one nail style forever, what would it be and why? “A nude builder gel. I love colours and fun designs, but these are heavily influenced by trends and fashion and a trend is not a style. I truly believe that the real beauty and artistry lies in simplicity and that is the hardest thing to achieve. Simplicity is timeless and also a key to true elegance. “A nude builder gel means that you won’t be distracted by the real art of a healthylooking nail. Less is more.” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 49

PATCH INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

k r o W

Are you seeking to embrace career freedom or utlilise an empty nail desk? YASIN ALIMAM, founder of HotPatch, reveals how the space renting platform can support your needs with ease…

asin (Yas) Alimam’s idea for HotPatch began when he was working on a similar concept in the fitness and wellness arena. He realised that many working professionals find the method of finding and renting a space awkward and timeconsuming. “I started thinking, if companies can deliver food to your house in 10 minutes, and you Yasin Aliman A nail bar to can get a cab through a quick swipe of an app on your rent in London Victoria phone, why can’t we make accessing the space you need just as easy for professionals?” Just like that, HotPatch was born. nail Patch booking Easy-to-use, the platform connects owners of space with people through the site last who need space. “We want these owners (we call them ‘hosts’) to year,” she reveals. Ruth get the maximum value out of their space, at all times,” explains uses HotPatch as she likes Yas. “So, if your nail desk is not being used every day, don’t let it to rent a nail table once sit there being unused – post it on HotPatch and connect it to a a month to cater for her professional who is searching for it!” London-based clients who on ns, Lond don’t want to travel to her y Garde in Abbe l ta n re tion HotPatch isn’t just for the nail and beauty space either. “We say yes Essex based salon. “Many Pedi sta to ‘Patches’ of all kinds, from beauty salons, nail bars, gyms, gardens, places only rent for longer karaoke rooms, air-hangers, everything you can imagine,” Yas terms and are not so easy to find, but with HotPatch I can easily comments. “We want to make these Patches easy to find and easy rent by the day, which is perfect for me.” to rent for nail, beauty and all kinds of professionals, everywhere!” HotPatch is all about space made simple. “The nine-to-five, one Yas explains the meaning behind the office, one-fit work model is dead, and we’re “Many places only rent for company name, describing a ‘Patch’ as looking to be part of the generation that a working space which can be defined by longer terms and are not so leads in rebuilding a more modern version of whichever purpose it is being used for. “We work that works for everyone,” Yas explains. call them Hot, because when they are always easy to find, but with HotPatch being used, your Patch is like a ‘hotspot’ or I can easily rent by the day, If you’re looking for a Patch, Yas reveals that ‘hot-desking’ – and a popular commodity.” the process is simple. “Visit HotPatch.com which is perfect for me.” and click ‘Find a Patch’, and all Patches are Ruth White, nail tech The HotPatch team is steadily growing, and Yas listed and categorised. If you’re looking to enthusiastically describes his team members. “Colist, click ‘Sign Up’, and follow the short listing founder, Farrell Sheridan, helps make sure our strategic process. Add the Patch title, the description, some planning is always on track and that we are delivering images and the process is complete.” maximum value to the industries in which we operate. Our community and customer service team is led by The business isn’t restricted to the UK, with Yas Cagla Cesur, who ensures customers are satisfied, wanting to add Patches all over the world. “Our and that their Patches are listed in the right way so vision is that any user would be able to log on to we can maximise bookings for our hosts. the platform, and be spoiled for choice in “Andy Watts leads the team in charge of creating any category that they’re fun and engaging content, and finds new ways for searching for. So right customers to discover us. Our listings director, Nick now, we are working hard Nails by Ruth White Waggott, focuses on outreach through establishing to get more Patches listed, new connections, and making sure all of and getting them in front of our our new hosts are signed up properly and wonderful community of professionals enjoying every moment of their journey.” who are looking for their next space.” Nail technician, Ruth White of Fleuri Nails, met Yas when she rented a Patch. “He wanted to come and meet me and my host in person, as I think I was the very first Ruth White

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NAILEVENT

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TREND Techs got creative in a bid to win the OPI TrendVision Award 2021 for their artistic nail efforts. Here, Scratch reveals who came out on top… The annual TrendVision competition, run by Wella, is famed in the hairdressing world for recognising incredible stylists and colourists – and with OPI part of the Wella family, recent years have opened up a category for nail pros to honour their talent, passion and trend-led nail skills. Entry for eager techs was open from 1-16 September, during which time they were invited to create nail styles using OPI products alongside a step-by-step, before uploading to social media and tagging OPI’s UK account. Over 60 entries to the competition were then judged by a specially selected panel and six images shot their way to the final. Finalists were invited to attend a glamorous ceremony at The Roundhouse, Camden on 11 October, hosted by renowned hair stylist, Patrick Cameron, and TV and radio personality, Fearne Cotton. OPI finalists were seated at a table front and centre alongside Belinda Price, education manager for OPI UK & Ireland, and Scratch’s Helena Biggs and Callie Iley. The group indulged in a three-course meal and watched four inspirational catwalk shows, which showcased a variety of hair trends, before the winners in the OPI and hair categories were announced.

WINNER: Dani Bailey

Bridgend-based Dani Bailey rose from second place in 2020 to scoop the OPI UK & Ireland TVA Nail Artist of the Year gold award 2021 with her bee-themed nail design. “The winning nails were inspired by a story from fellow nailist, Learnah Starbuck. She posted on Instagram about a bee she had tried to save whom she named Brenda, who unfortunately didn’t make it but lives on in my nail look,” Dani reveals. The talented tech, who qualified in July 2019, used OPI’s Alpine Snow, Lady in Black, Never A Dulles Moment and Ray-Diance alongside Gold Digger chrome powder. “After placing second in the TrendVision awards last year, I knew I had to try again this year,” Dani smiles. “The experience has been amazing and a great way to challenge myself and I really enjoyed meeting fellow nailists at the awards evening. I didn’t expect to win; the work by the other finalists was incredible. I was happy to attend for dinner and a dance! “My clients have nicknamed my trophy ‘The Golden Dumbbell’ as it is so heavy,” Dani laughs. “It’s displayed in my home salon next to last year’s second place trophy and a photo of my Scratch Snap win in April’s competition; it’s definitely in a place of pride!” Alongside her trophy, Dani received a 12-piece OPI Powder Perfection Kit, Pink & White Kit, one-to-one education day, OPI GelColor Starter Kit and OPI merchandise. @nailsbydanibailey 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

THE OPI NAIL ARTIST FINALISTS

Dani Bailey @nailsbydanibailey Delia Turville @scratchdollface Marta Nagorska @furiousfiler Emma Brock @emmab_opinailboss Khadine Coleman @nailnv_khadine_coleman

THE OPI TRENDVISION JUDGES

Helena Biggs – Managing editor, Scratch Sue Davies – Industry expert & FNP deputy chair Suzanne Clayton – Founder, Nail Tech Awareness Facebook group Belinda Price – OPI UK & I education manager Cheryl Cooke – OPI New Zealand educator Elisha Micallef – OPI UK & I educator

RUNNER UP: Emma Brock

Emma Brock of Haverhill, Suffolk, had two images that made the finals – and scooped the runner up accolade with a nature-themed design. “My entry was inspired by OPI’s Nature Strong collection, and I incorporated the range with a GelColor manicure,” she reveals. Emma, who works at The Nail Dresser, has always been a fan of OPI products and works as an OPI Nail Boss, creating content for the OPI Professional Community Facebook page. “Becoming an OPI Nail Boss gave me the push to enter the TrendVision Awards,” she reveals. “The awards are a great introduction to the competition world without the stress of competing live. “I loved meeting the other finalists at the awards evening and it’s great to know that there is so much love and support in the industry. It’s been an amazing experience!” Emma received a trophy and Champagne at the awards night, and her prize includes an OPI Powder Perfection class and five-piece Kit, OPI GelColor Starter Kit and OPI merchandise. @emmab_opinailboss @emma_naildresser

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Feast your eyes on DANNY MANCHIP’S nail designs & get to know his future plans & favourite products

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Danny Manchip Age – 32 years Business name – Beau’s Beauty Box

Fav nail design – I love a tortoiseshell nail and there are so many ways you can incorporate the print into a design. I enjoy line work, too, as perfectly painted lines look so striking. Also, I dabbled in character work over lockdown and aim to book some courses to enhance my skills in that area later this year.

Location – Exeter Time in nails – Three years Trained with – Magpie Beauty. It’s an incredible brand with amazing educators and brand ambassadors. What do you love about working in the nail industry? Mainly the people; from my amazing clients to the amazing techs I’ve had the privilege to cross paths with. Also, I love the freedom that this industry offers. You can be your authentic self, show your work to the world and be celebrated for it. The creativity, passion and kindness shown in this industry makes me proud to be a part of it. Fav products – My top three products are my Magpie Beauty nail art brushes, Magpie Gel Paints and Magpie GMS (Give Me Strength). I love hand painting designs and the gel paints are my go-to for nail art. GMS is a great structure gel and is also perfect for encapsulating glitter and shapes and mixing with pigments, chromes and flakes. I am a huge Magpie Beauty fan! Fav nail technique – Hand painted, intricate nail art designs. Even simple detailing can have a big impact.

Career ambition & vision – I would love to be able to have my own salon one day so that I can have the space to offer other treatments. I want a salon space that has positive vibes and makes clients feel as if they can pop in for a cuppa when passing by. I would also love to work with Magpie Beauty in some capacity and dip my toes into education, as I love helping others and have a passion for positive and correct education. My vision is to be a brand of quality, passion, positive education and kindness. Lastly I would love to make press-on nails for drag queens. It would be fabulous! Who do you admire in the industry? Sophie Hudd at Rainbow Nails creates incredible nail art designs and I love the L&P acrylic work by Amanda Byrne. Sarah Shakespeare, founder of Magpie Beauty, is a wonerful lady and her brand excites me every day. I love its values, community and passion! I also admire Scratch columnist, Chan from Clawgasmic, who is a fabulous nail technician and so supportive, positive and kind. Beau’s Beauty Box @BeausBeautyBox

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

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NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H

Get to know the names behind companies & brands that are attracting attention across the nail & beauty scene PAMPERBOOK Founded by Jody Riley, PamperBook is a booking app for salons and freelancers which works as a pocket personal assistant, meaning users can manage client bookings from anywhere and at any time. Jody created the app after owning her own salons and wasting hours of her day trying to organise her paper diary and dealing with having to manually book clients mid-service while with another client. “I have tailored the app to the target market,” reveals Jody. “It’s pretty in pink and very affordable. We want to make booking simple for both businesses and clients and PamperBook offers a digital diary, social booking link, deposits, booking reminders, push notifications and dedicated account managers.” PamperBook aims to stand out with its commitment to customer service. “We know how frustrating it is not being able to get hold of anyone so we have closed that gap and made our account managers accessible 24/7 to our users,” Jody adds. Since launching just over a year ago, PamperBook has weathered three lockdowns but is continuing to go from strength to strength, with thousands of businesses on board and over 300,000 appointments made. “The pandemic has definitely been our biggest challenge. However, we have worked incredibly hard to adapt during the lockdown and have worked alongside our users as a support system,” Jody continues. “PamperBook is more than a booking system; it’s a community.” www.pamperbook.co.uk

/pamperbookuk

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NAIL & BEAUTY EXCELLENCE Founder of Nail & Beauty Excellence, Jade Barber, is a multi-award-winning nail technician who has been working in the industry for eight years. With over 50 trophies under her belt, she has competed in both online and live competitions and has also been an international judge – but found herself exploring another side to the industry in 2019. “It was never my plan to create nail products, but I was approached to partner with someone who was already in the beauty supply industry and my role was to test products and be the face of the business,” Jade reveals. “This business adventure was short-lived due to Covid-19 and they wanted to fold the business. However, after I had spent so much time researching, testing products and writing manuals, I couldn’t let it go overnight.” While the world was in the middle of a pandemic, Jade made a big decision to purchase the business and used the time her salon was closed to develop the Nail & Beauty Excellence brand. The product offering includes acrylic, acrygel and gel polish systems, a wide range of glitters, nail art products, e-files, lamps, tools and accessories. Jade also offers training both in person and online, along with VIP training days that can cater to a nail tech’s individual requirements. The brand has hired three educators and has a team of ambassadors to support. “Nail & Beauty Excellence strives to create the next generation of nail techs, offering them a wide range of products that have been created by a working nail pro with every tech in mind,” Jade adds. Her plan is to continue to add to her range, hire additional educators to expand the course offering and offer more employment opportunities. www.nailandbeautyexcellence.com 60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/nailandbeautyexcellence

@nailandbeautyexcellence

NAILSCENE SCARLETT SENTER Scarlett Senter is a familiar face in the UK the nail scene, with over 10 years in the industry, 70 competitions and three Scratch Stars Awards under her belt. The businesswoman juggles her time between running her salon and academy, being an educator for Nailchemy, judging competitions and working on her product range. “The nail industry is honestly the best thing I’ve stepped into. I get to do what I love every single day!” she comments. Creating a nail brush line had always been a dream of Scarlett’s and she sought to create small acrylic brushes. Allowing increased ease and precision of application and product control, the three brushes have proved a hit since their release in June 2021. She didn’t stop there – Scarlett has launched a Crystal Pro tool and a glitter range, with new collections being released each month to keep up with current trends and demands. However, her success didn’t come without challenges, as Scarlett shared with us how production was hit hard by the pandemic. “Getting samples and communicating was extremely hard and there were points I thought maybe it was best to wait, but my drive made me focus and keep going.” This drive motivated her next venture; the launch of a website exhibiting her accredited courses, workshops and glitter and brush ranges, and she prides her company on professionalism. “I offer customers high quality products and amazing customer service,” she reveals. “I have many aims for the future including growing the product range, acquiring new customers, and showcasing ‘how-to’ tutorials.” www.scarlettsenter.co.uk

/scarlettsenternailartist

@scarlett_senternailartist

KINDR Kate Thompson decided to create her own range of alcohol-free, Covid-19 effective sanitisers after suffering with dry, sensitive skin. “The start of the pandemic left my hands cracked and painful with the overuse of alcohol-based sanitisers,” she reveals. “My youngest daughter also has sensitive skin and I had noticed a difference in both my childrens’ skin with the effects of hand sanitising gels.” It was at this point that Kate started having discussions with some chemical engineers who were already making alcohol-free sanitising solutions, and during the development of Kindr, they received the official accreditation that the solution was also effective against Covid-19, so The Kindr Company was born. Kindr provides a range of alcohol-free, Covid-19 effective sanitisers. Kind to skin and nails, the products can also be used to disinfect surfaces, including fabrics and electronics. “Our sanitiser spray, Flairosol, uses patented technology to deliver a fine mist similar to ‘fogging’ to disinfect large areas quickly, from door handles to nail bars. Entire treatment areas can be sprayed and left for 30 seconds, without a need to wipe away,” enthuses Kate. The name Kindr was born from the brand ethos – to be kinder on skin and in turn, be kinder to the environment and planet by being refillable. “As a society we are far too quick to use single-use plastic products for convenience, but we know we need to change our behaviour by making small but significant adjustments in our routines to refill and reuse items instead of throwing them away.” Since the launch in October 2020, the company has received incredibly positive and supportive feedback and Kindr is already working on the next range of products, which includes protective hand balms and refillable foaming liquid soaps. www.kindr.co.uk

/thekindrcompany

@the_kindr_company

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Roses Nails

Location: Newtown, Mid Wales

After working in the construction industry for six years, Katy Rose found herself reconsidering her career during the coronavirus lockdowns. She decided to take the leap and quit her job, using the time that lockdown afforded to build a career in the nail sector. “I have always been creative and never had a chance to express it,” Katy reveals. “I worked from my conservatory before moving into a salon space and then moving to mobile appointments, before my boyfriend let me take over one of the spare rooms in his house in October 2020. Luckily for me he’s a decorator, so we transformed the unused room and I’ve worked there ever since. We’ve recently had a baby, so being able to work from home is so convenient.” Katy’s pretty pink nail space is the perfect reflection of her personality. “I’m a ‘girly girl’ so the space is feminine and fun. I try to keep the colour theme consistent throughout my marketing and on my Instagram page too,” she observes. “Almost every client who has walked through the door has commented on how much they love how the studio is decorated. It’s more than just a workspace for me, it’s a private environment in which my clients can relax and have a one-to-one experience. “My favourite part of my setup is my Star Of Fame award from my boyfriend. It says ‘From your biggest fan.’ Both he and my family have been so supportive of my venture.” /nailsbykatyrose

@nailsbykatyrose

Fabu Lou’s Beauty

Location: North Lanarkshire, Scotland

Louise Bradshaw rented rooms in hairdressing salons from 2010, until September 2020 served up an opportunity. “I was offered a deal on a damp, dark and dusty unused unit, but I had a vision and I knew what I wanted the end result to be; my own salon space. “I’ve since gone from working alone to having a team of eight, offering nails, brows, lashes, hair, make-up and aesthetics,” Louise reveals. “I am also the CJP educator for central Scotland and run classes and one-to-ones in the salon on a regular basis. Education for me is the key to success. Even after 10 years in the business, I’m still learning and now being able to pass on my knowledge to see others thrive and become better is the best feeling.

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“My salon is a one-stop-shop for everything, which my clients love. They can come for a quick gel polish or spend all day being pampered head to toe. It’s such a cool, welcoming and relaxed vibe,” Louise enthuses. “It’s a pink paradise, decorated with a huge flower wall and neon sign, with cool white flooring and blush touches. It’s such an airy, feminine space. The flower walls bring a pop of colour and the white and blush furniture keeps it looking fresh.” /fabulousbeauty85

@fabu_lous_beauty85

@fabu_lous_beauty

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Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Richard Lambert as the chief executive, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-forprofit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

A focus on bullying in the nail space ullying and harassment in the workplace can have far-reaching effects, not only for the person being bullied but for you, other employees, clients, and your business.

Bullying can happen at all levels, whether someone senior is bullying someone junior or one colleague is intimidating another. Bullying behaviour is never right and is the wrong way to get the best performance out of an employee. It can have a significant effect on the physical and mental health of the workforce as it can be a major cause of work-related stress. Given that 40% of all sickness absence relates to stress, this can have a staggering effect on your nail business. Workplace bullying is often more psychological and verbal, rather than physical. Younger staff in particular may find it hard to judge the subtle line between banter and bullying, so to tackle this, include concrete examples of bullying and harassment in your staff handbook, induction materials and bullying policy. Bullying and harassment may include: • Spreading malicious gossip • Insults • Excluding or ignoring someone • Victimisation • Mistreatment • Deliberately undermining someone by unfairly criticising them • Unfairly blocking promotion or training • Ridiculing or demeaning someone • Unwelcome sexual advances or behaviour Bullying and harassment can be face-to-face, on the phone, via email or social media, through written or visual communications, or any combination of these. It may involve one person bullying another or a group of people bullying one person.

www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial

/nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

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A report by the Chartered Institute of Personnel & Development (CIPD) found that the most

common form of bullying or harassment was ‘being undermined or humiliated in my job’, with the majority of cases reported by women (55%). Although there are no specific laws for bullying, under health & safety legislation employers have duties to assess risks to staff, including work-related violence, and introduce policies and procedures to control any risks identified.

What can business owners do? According to the CIPD report, a quarter of employees think their company turns a blind eye to workplace bullying and harassment. A risk assessment should take place, and a bullying and harassment policy drawn up. In line with all health & safety policies, the policy should be monitored and reviewed regularly to achieve its objectives and remain effective. You must have zero tolerance for bullying or harassment in your nail salon. Your team must understand that such behaviour is unacceptable and will not be tolerated. In your nail salon, you should encourage a speakup culture with a well-publicised complaints procedure. Access to an independent, professional counselling service provided by trained counsellors should be available. NHBF members have 24/7 access to our free legal helpline, which can offer information and advice on dealing with bullying in the workplace via www.nhbf.co.uk/join, and can download our free staff handbook for use with our free contracts and apprenticeship agreements. The staff handbook includes: • A statement of commitment to protecting the health, safety and welfare of employees • A statement that bullying and harassment are unacceptable • Clear examples of bullying and harassment • A definition of stress • The employer’s responsibilities • The employee’s responsibilities

Mobile Moves BUSINESSMATTERS

Are you considering making the move from salon, home or session work to mobile tekking? CHLOE RANDALL reveals key points to note… Transitioning from working in a salon or home-based setup to a mobile mani lifestyle isn’t just as easy as popping in your car and getting on the road. From having to carry around your kit bag to managing your own finances and ensuring you have the correct insurance, there is a lot to consider before you can fully enjoy the freedom that often comes with working on a mobile basis. For many technicians, moving to a mobile way of working means a reduction in monthly overheads and commitments, and the opportunity to work around other responsibilities or a busy home life. It means you have control over your diary – and embark on a different adventure every day. However, with benefits comes challenges, so read on to find out advice about stock, insurance and marketing your services…

Did you know…?

If you take out the Nails, Tanning & Make-up insurance with ABT, an annual print subscription to Scratch magazine is included! Find out more via www.abtinsurance.co.uk

ü Create a kit checklist.CHECK IT ü

When starting ou t, a kit list can he lp to avoid forgett This will help yo ing any items yo u to be more orga u may need. nised and prepar ed for your appo in tments. Plan ah

ead.

Make sure you ar e familiar with th e location of an journey, includi y new clients an ng parking, to pr d plan your event late arrival.

ü Ask in advance.

If you have a lar ger kit, it can be time consuming entire nail shad and a strain to ca e collection arou rry your nd with you. To in advance abou help with this, as t the nail shades k your client or sty les you can bring a they desire at th smaller selec tio eir ap pointm en n to suit. t so

ü Be respectful.

You are workin g from your clien t’s home or work you need to be co space and not yo nscious of the en ur own so vironment and Offer to take yo respec t the clien ur shoes off on t’s prop er ty. entry and wear keep a clean and appropriate PPE. tidy workstation Make sure you so you can minim could cause dam ise any potentia age and bring a l spills that bag to take any waste home with you.

ü Check your insurance.

Invest in approp riate insurance to cover your wo offices. ABT insu rk at client’s ho rance provides mes and nail technician liability, produc insurance, inclu t liability and tre di ng public atm ent risk cover fo whether you are r up to £6 millio working from ho n, me, a salon or on a mobile basis.

ü Consider your car.

It’s likely that yo u’ll use your ca r to travel from cli your car insuranc ent to client, so e policy, insurin reassess g it for business car is off the road use. Remember at any point, you – if your wo n’t be able to re income, therefor ach clients – so e consider adding will lose the option of a co Understand that urtesy car to your there will be co policy. sts for the increa vehicle as you us sed wear and tea e it for work, as r on your well as regular m aintenance.

ü Payment solutions. The car of Nikol Nikolova, Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year 2021, featuring her business branding.

66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Avoid any awkw ardness and don’ t fall short of fu investing in a po nds post-treatm rtable card read ent by er. We’re liv ing where many pref in a ‘contactless er to pay via debi culture’ t or credit card, parti of the pandemic, cularly since the so check out the start options available in one app – wh and keep your tra ich is handy wh nsactions en presenting to tax and nationa your accountan l insurance paym t or calculating ents.

BUSINESSMATTERS

TECH TALK Abigail Garvey, Pure Nails ambassador, reveals her journey from salon to mobile tech…

Why did you transition to mobile tekking?

“Before I started as a mobile nail tech, I was working in a salon and had to spend at least an hour and a half commuting, as well as having to take my eldest daughter to nursery and pick her up. Every day was a long day, and when I returned from maternity leave after my second child, I found that the dynamics within the salon had changed. “I began to look for jobs and salons closer to home, but I was finding that the mix of the working hours and childcare was even more stressful, so my husband suggested that I work for myself on a mobile basis. I am now able to work around school drop-offs and pickups, have days off with them while they aren’t at school and have a brilliant work/life balance.”

What do you need to consider now that you didn’t have to in a salon environment?

“In a salon, my setup was permanent and I could ensure that everything was ready for every treatment. For example, I would have the desk and chairs set to the correct height and positions, the lighting would be perfect, and there wouldn’t be any wires trailing as I’d know exactly where the plug sockets were! “Working mobile means that all of these factors become a little harder to control, as the nearest plug could be on the other side of the room, the client may not have a suitable workspace and you could be working in near darkness without any natural light. To combat these issues, always ensure you have an extension lead, portable table, and light in your kit. It is important to be flexible and adapt to any environment.”

How do you work out what stock you need to buy/take on each visit?

“I always like to treat my mobile kit as though it is a fully stocked salon, and take everything with me regardless of the treatment. My client could be booked in for a simple gel polish treatment, but when I get there I could notice they have a split in their nail. By having my full kit, I am able to repair the nail. I always know where everything is and that I have everything I could possibly need – it also gives the opportunity to upsell on treatments by offering nail art.”

SAFETY FIRST

Speak to any new clients on the phone prior to their appointment. Trust your instincts; if something doesn’t feel right, it may not be. Be sure to share your appointment schedule with a loved one or turn on a tracker on your mobile phone so they can check where you are while working. Be clear on your route to each appointment and arrange parking in advance to avoid getting lost in an unfamiliar area. Also, ensure you always carry a charged phone and spare charger.

TOP TIP

When you first become a selfemployed mobile nail tech, register with HMRC as a self-employed sole trader. It will send reminders for you to complete your self-assessment tax return. Scan here to get started

Handy product picks

What methods do you use to market your services?

“At the start, a lot of my clients came to me through social media. I made sure to post regularly on local selling sites and I began to do introductory offers or asked for models to build my portfolio for a discounted price. I also would do the nails of family members and gave them business cards to hand out when anyone noticed their nails. For example, my sister works at a petrol station, and I have had several new clients who had commented on her nails while at work. I also keep my social media accounts up-to-date and tag my clients in any posts to reach more people on their timeline.” @abi.g.beauty

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CND™ Towel £6.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

INK Pump Dispenser £POA www.inknails.com

Gelish & All That Jazz Trolley Bag £49.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 67

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

THE FIBER Get to grips with Fiber Gel, a super-strong base that helps aid enhancement longevity & support the natural nail

Creating magical nails is Nailchemy’s goal – and the ever-innovative Bridgwaterbased brand has pulled a product from its hat to strengthen nails and support your Prophecy gel polish services. Prophecy Fiber Gel has swooped in as a super-strong base for gel polish overlays, and can be used with Nailchemy’s Fiber Gel Tips to create a long-lasting, strong enhancement for gel polish application. “The product has a hypoallergenic formula, free from Hema, Di-Hema, HPMA and IBOA,” comments Sophia Williams, Nailchemy brand Sophia Williams ambassador and educator. “It is great for gel polish clients that require added strength and is also suitable for short extensions when combined with the Nailchemy Fiber Gel tips.” Available in clear, Prophecy Fiber Gel is vegan-friendly, non-yellowing and can be used to infill. The soak-off formula is made in the EU and offers exceptional adhesion. “The product is so versatile and the feedback from my clients has been great,” Sophia continues. “They love the strength it provides, which supports the growth of their natural nails, and I love that both my natural nail clients and those who seek short extensions are able to benefit from use of the product.” Prophecy Fiber Gel 15ml is £12.99 + VAT and available via www.nailchemy.co.uk /nailchemy @nailchemy

s e l i F Application tips GEL POLISH OVERLAY 1. Prep the nail and apply Prophecy Fiber Gel in thin layers directly onto the natural nail. Cap the free edge. 2. Cure in the Nailchemy High Performance UV-LED Lamp for 60 seconds. 3. Apply additional coats as desired, remembering to cap the free edge. Cure. 4. Apply Nailchemy Prophecy gel polish as desired and cure. 5. Finish with an application of Tack Free Top Coat and cure. 6. Remove with acetone.

TIP & OVERLAY 1. Prep the nail and remove all dust from the nail plate. 2. Apply a small amount of Nailchemy Nail Glue to the base of your chosen tip. Angle it at 45-degrees and make contact with the nail. Press the tip on, ensuring full contact has been made. 3. Shape and tailor the length of the tip as per the client’s request. Note: Blending of the tip is not required. The Nailchemy Fiber Gel Tips are pre-etched for better adhesion. 4. Apply a coat of Nailchemy Prep Deyhdrator to the nails. 5. Apply Prophecy Fiber Gel over the nail in two to three thin coats, depending on the nail length, curing and capping in between. 6. Remove the inhibition layer and refine using a buffer if desired. 7. Apply your chosen colour over the cured Prophecy Fiber Gel layers and tip. Cure. 8. Complete the service with an application of Tack Free Top Coat. Cure.

“The product is so versatile and the feedback from my clients has been great. They love the strength it provides, which supports the growth of their natural nails.” 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Tip & overlay and natural nail overlay with Prophecy Fiber Gel

BUSINESSMATTERS

Charging your Scared to raise the price of your nail services? Fellow techs & business experts reveal how to take action without the risk of losing clients

worth

he pandemic, fuel saga and energy crisis have thrust a number of issues on businesses affecting income and altering overheads. Our industry is still getting back on its feet after losing wages – and clients – to the knock-on effects of Covid-19, and trying to make up for losses while being hit with increased costs for PPE and electricity. So, take charge and assess how much you need to be charging to be comfortable; it’s likely you’ll discover that you need to put up your treatment prices. Instead of looking to your competition when pricing your nail services, understand that every nail business will need to charge completely different prices due to different considerations, concerns, and variables. Make sure you put aside the time to ensure you are charging your worth and making a profit.

Vicki Boddice

“Currently, energy price hikes are a major prompt to review the current prices for all techs, but other things can include noticing less money in the bank at the end of each month, or on a more positive note, any achievements made or new services added,” comments Vicki Boddice of Boddice Accounting. “The one thing not to do is compare yourself to other nail businesses and try

70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

to match their prices, as this can cause a ‘race to the bottom’ with everyone slashing prices, and no one surviving.” But is there a problem with pricing in the nail industry as a whole? Essex-based nail technician, Lianne MacLellan, believes that the sector is undervalued. “The nail industry needs to increase its pricing to bring it in line with the rest of the beauty industry. We research what others are charging and put Lianne MacLellan ourselves somewhere in the middle. I have learnt that this is completely the wrong way to go about it! “Everyone’s cost per service will be different, as will their insurance, training, rent, PPE, materials and more,” she adds. “People are happy to pay £60 and over for lashes, £40 and over for make-up, so why not nails? It is a luxury service, and it has come a long way in terms of application, cuticle care, nail art, and quality of product.” Indeed, your clients may not realise the countless hours you spend researching and buying the best products and equipment, investing in education, booking systems and a professional website, as well as time spent experimenting with new nail art designs.

BUSINESSMATTERS Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert and owner of Sketched by J-A Nails, advises that by implementing a small increase every year, your customers will know to expect it, and if they are happy with your services they will pay the new price. “You are one year more experienced, your Julie-Anne Larivière overheads may have gone up, you would have done more training, purchased new products, and all of this comes at a price, and shouldn’t be disregarded,” she says. If you’re worried about receiving backlash from clients when raising your prices, Ruth Munro comments that she explains the real ‘hidden’ costs of running her business to these clients. “I created a grid image and video to explain my business costs and help clients understand why I raised my prices post-lockdown. Often, clients assume the treatment price only covers products and your time – they don’t tend to consider any other factors.”

Lianne MacLellan’s treatment price list

Magpie Beauty educator, Ruth Munro, also believes that the nail industry has an underpricing issue. “Many nail techs make the mistake of pricing based by location, rather than by their own business costs and ideal earnings. Charging based on location and competition causes the industry to go round in Ruth Munro circles of underpayment and undervalue of nail technicians and their services,” she comments. “Nail technicians are business managers who are in charge of their customer care, marketing, research, admin, stock, health & safety, training and so much more, which deserves far more than minimum wage per hour.” Salon System expert, Jaz Moger, agrees. “As much as we are lucky do a job we love, it is a job, and it pays our bills so always make sure you are charging your worth. If you are making under minimum wage and working at full capacity, then it’s got to change.” In addition, nail techs deserve to take their wealth Jaz Moger of knowledge into pricing consideration and the cost of training to get to their current role. The advice from Magda Gniewek, expert educator at Magnetic Nail Design, is to think of a price increase as something that builds the image and character of your company. “Raising prices is a natural process, such as increases in prices in shops, or increases in Magda Gniewek petrol prices or salaries. I advise you to raise your prices regularly – at least once a year, and definitely when you have a full customer base; then you can raise your prices by 30%,” Magda advises. “Make sure you inform clients about the price raise two to three months in advance, and set a new price list in a clearly visible place, like your desk or waiting room, with information about when the new prices come into place. Share it on social media, too. “Raising prices often brings negative emotions, but you need to change your thinking. The raise is for you and your company, and it will raise your value. When you tell people, say it with a smile, pride, and a sincere belief that it will be good for you – only inform; do not apologise!”

However, Julie-Anne wants you to know that you can’t please everyone. “If someone isn’t happy with the increase, thank them for their custom and let them move on. They will be replaced by someone who values your work and who will be more than happy to pay the higher price.”

TRAINING SPOTLIGHT

If you’d like to learn more about pricing, Lianne MacLellan recommends the free Maddi Cook Boss Your Salon webinar, available at www.bossyoursalon.com. “Maddi’s webinar was a game changer for me. It helps nail techs work out their own pricing based solely on themselves, and not what other salons are charging. We are forgetting to factor in our rent, insurance, training, PPE, cleaning materials, holiday pay, sick pay, cost per service, right down to tissues used! Then you have to factor in your time and what you’d like to earn per year, per hour and her calculator works out what you should be charging per service. I was so shocked at how much I’d been undercharging.”

TOP TIPS

Ria-Jaine Lincoln

Ria-Jaine Lincoln, aka The Beauty Accountant, reveals that pricing for business survival takes planning, control and review. Here are her five top tips for getting it right:

Robust bookkeeping processes are key to working out quickly if a business is running at a loss. If it is loss making, the sales pricing could be the issue, so action is needed as soon as a loss starts to accumulate. Without regular bookkeeping this is almost impossible to measure.

Cash flow planning is crucial for survival, as cash flow helped me to rebuild my life when starting over in the refuge via Women’s Aid. It will help a tech work out the gaps and how to fix them for survival.

3 4

Always upsell before discounting, as this can damage the hard work put into sales pricing. Research the competition.

Review prices at least once a year, and in line with inflation each year. Holiday seasons are another good time to plan increases, but do give existing customers notice as a gesture of goodwill.

Plan and plan again but remember business survival is not reliant on sales pricing alone. If a business is struggling to survive, all of the above must be made a priority while also reviewing the business expenses.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 71

SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros… @_by_shell

S T A T S

THE MASK-ARA EFFECT

Sales of prestige mascara increased 20% in the first half of 2021, compared to the same period in 2020, according to The NPD Group. Consumers streamlined their make-up bags post-pandemic, putting more emphasis on products that focus on the eye area. In the first half of 2021, mascara accounted for 43% of all eye make-up volume sales compared to 36% in the first half of 2019.

Most loved...

This stunning stripy nail design by @_by_shelley scored the most amount of likes on our Instagram feed when we reposted it last month. Who’s in the mood for a colourful horizontal striped mani?

IN THE PINK

FAB FOLLOWERS

The top locations for Scratch’s Instagram followers are:

United States – 16.1% Mexico – 3.8% Canada – 1.8% Argentina – 1.7% Are you following us yet? Check us out at @scratchmagazine!

Top on TikTok Beauty videos featuring essential oils have had over 140 million views on TikTok. Pass us the cuticle oil!

SLOWLY BUT SURELY

➙

United Kingdom - 47.9%

In 2011, female-founded companies accounted for just 2.5% of the European total, a number that has slowly but gradually risen every year to reach 4.6% in 2021, according to research by organic period care provider, Yoppie. At the same time, the number of businesses that have both female and male co-founders has risen from 10.3% in 2011 to 16.9% in 2021.

Over half of women in the UK (55%) haven’t heard of the 'Pink Tax' and don’t know how it could impact their bank balance, according to VoucherCodes.co.uk’s latest Overpriced Index. The report, which looks at exorbitantly priced goods in the UK, also measures the impact of Covid-19, Brexit, and the 'Pink Tax’ on everyday items. Key data from the research includes: • Haircuts, razors, and car repairs are some of the items women feel have inflated prices compared to the same products marketed to men. • Nearly three quarters (70%) of women feel angry at the difference in prices between men and women’s products. • People in York and Scotland are the most clued up about the impact of the 'Pink Tax’. Due to the price disparity, two in five (41%) women buy products aimed at men because they are cheaper. However, over half (54%) still buy products marketed towards women, knowing they cost more, because they prefer the scent or think they work better. For the full report, visit www.vouchercodes.co.uk

/scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

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SCRATCHPADS

SCRATCH PADS Delightful decadence Team spirit & a drive to succeed are the secret ingredients for success at a start-up salon nestled quietly amongst the chaos of central London. CHLOE RANDALL takes a peek…

manda Lee had been immersed in the nail and beauty realms from a young age via her family’s business and had a burning desire to run her own salon. Her dream became a reality when she and her partner, Edward, decided to relocate from Toronto, Canada to the UK, to delve into a new business venture and build a new career path. Energised and excited for their new chapter, the pair was hit with the hurdle of the Covid-19 pandemic, which delayed plans and prevented the opening of their own salon.

Amanda Lee

However, this didn’t stop the power couple as the time in lockdown was used by Amanda and Edward to perfect the décor, treatments, team and quality at Iris Avenue. Following a lot of time and dedication and after finding a team to suit, the venue opened its doors in May 2021. 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A peaceful haven, Iris Avenue resigns in a quiet street off Tottenham Court Road in London, allowing clients escapism from the hustle and bustle of the city for a much-needed pamper. The number of offices surrounding nearby make it the ideal location for commuters seeking a manicure during their lunch break, or a massage at the end of a long week. The global circumstances gave Amanda and Edward the opportunity to work together to open Iris Avenue, which was not the original plan – but worked out for the best. “Working as a pair allowed us to merge our two influences together,” Amanda reveals. “I have experience in the salon world and Edward has experience in the entertainment industry, and we discovered that our skills really complemented each other when setting up the salon.” Upon entering the space, clients are greeted with a fully licenced and stocked coffee shop and bar which adds an element of luxury to every service. Amanda and Edward’s intention is to allow guests to escape from the chaos of London and feel as if they are on holiday.

SCRATCHPADS

“The aim of our salon is to provide an incredible experience for clients and offer a multitude of beauty services to suit their needs.” Careful planning and an eye for home comfort led Amanda to choose furniture that puts the client’s comfort first, while also fulfilling the dual-toned style she set out to create. “Comfort is key for our customers and creating a homely feel was really important to us,” adds Amanda. “Going to a salon should be a comfortable and relaxing experience.” The duo worked with an interior designer during lockdown to achieve the desired look. “Designing our salon was very much a collaborative project,” Amanda continues. “We told our interior designer what we needed and liked and we then worked together during the lockdowns to complete our ideal salon look.” Comprising two treatment rooms, five pedicure stations and five manicure stations as well as a swinging chair, a lounge area and outside seating, the goal of the salon is to radiate a spa-like atmosphere. “Adding colour took away a clinical feeling that can often be found in spas and we wanted to put our own spin on it,” says Amanda. Keen to grow Iris Avenue in these early stages since opening, Amanda and Edward have embraced each aspect of running the salon themselves to fully understand each element of the business before expanding their team to fulfil some of these duties. “At this stage, we are both wearing all the hats. From ordering and HR to payroll and marketing and even working as a barista at the salon bar, we’ve really got stuck in with every aspect so we can understand everything,” admits Edward. After managing various salons in the UK and Canada, Amanda has used these skills to become the team leader, planner and scheduler, while also formulating the team’s service menu.

Team spirit It’s apparent on arrival that a happy team is key to the relaxed and chilled atmosphere created. “The Iris Avenue team creates happy vibes which are felt by our customers, adding to their experience,” adds Edward. Currently home to nine employees, each team member has helped Amanda and Edward curate their services and ideas to constantly innovate the premises. By hosting weekly social nights with the team and discussing ideas they would like to bring to the salon, a level of buzz and excitement surrounds what the future holds for the London-based venue. “Everyone brings a different element and perspective,” says Amanda. “As a new premises, Edward and I invite our team members to share what they love about the industry so we can incorporate it into the salon’s offerings.” The variety of skills the team possesses means that all areas of the beauty menu are covered and no nail art request is too big. A positive, calming energy radiates from Iris Avenue and on speaking to one of its nail technicians, Carla Olivera, it seems that the space really is an example of ‘happy vibes, happy life.’ Vouching for Amanda and Edward’s perspective, I found the team to be bright, warm, welcoming and friendly which made me relaxed and ready for my gel polish manicure. My treatment started with a >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 75

SCRATCHPADS thorough consultation and Carla made nail art suggestions based on my colour and style tastes. With music playing, relaxing cents surrounding the salon and a delicious smoothie in hand, I was ready for my treatment. I opted for a delicate marble nail art design with each nail showcasing a different CND Shellac™ shade. The treatment was finished with a delightful, moisturising hand massage.

Community spirit After opening in such a pivotal time, Amanda and Edward have really felt a strong sense of community and hope to launch various initiatives to continue to bring the industry together. “The Covid-19 pandemic really made the industry unite and we want to strengthen this unity,” they reveal. The first initiative from Iris Avenue is ‘Braille My Nail’, a charity drive launched in a bid to raise money for the Royal National Institute of Blind People. The salon is asking fellow salons and mobile technicians nationwide to join them to provide a ‘Braille My Nails’ manicure for their clients and in turn, donate 10% of the sales of these manicures to the RNIB. Nail professionals can join the initiative by scanning the QR code and on signing up, will receive a Braille My Nails kit containing everything needed to perform the service. Salons and nail technicians involved with the initiative will also be added to a salon finder so clients can find their nearest Braille My Nails professional. While Braille My Nail is proving to be successful, it is only the beginning in terms of bringing the industry together. Amanda and Edward see this as the first of many initiatives to be launched by the team, and are eager to continue the unison felt in the industry during the pandemic. We want to continue to bring the industry together,” Amanda comments. “After all, we don’t see other salons as competition, we see it as each of us being part of an eco-system.” The drive to include and unite the community doesn’t stop there, as the salon has a commitment to inclusivity. Treating clients of all ages and genders, the luxurious getaway that Amanda and Edward set out to achieve has been fulfilled and radiates a wholesome, peaceful energy. “We strive to be inclusive to all ages in the salon as each age group brings such a nice energy to the place. Our clientele ranges from 21, due to the universities in the area, right up to our oldest client who is 93. Our salon suits everyone.”

The art of nails After speaking with Amanda, it appears nail art was never a core focus but is proving to be a huge attraction to clients. The gel polish manicure with nail art is the most popular service and nail treatments make up 70% of bookings. “When we first started the salon, the plan wasn’t to be a ‘nail art salon.’ However, the team we happened to attract is so gifted and talented at nail art so we decided to go for it. Over lockdown, nail 76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHPADS

art has really grown as a trend on social media and we wanted to jump on that,” reveals Amanda. Amanda has also found an unexpected aspect by focusing on nail art in the salon. “Nails bring a really social aspect to the business. Friends can come together to get their nails done and catch up,” says Amanda. “Nail services are people pleasers; you look at nails every day and every time you use your hands, and I think that is what makes nail art such a special service. “For a lot of things in the salon, we very much have to see how it goes and what feels right and right now, nail art feels so right because everyone enjoys it and it creates a more collaborative manicure experience.” With a plan to grow the salon and to continue to offer the chilled, at-home feeling the salon presents to its clients, Amanda reveals that the secret to creating such a wonderful atmosphere comes courtesy of her grandmother..

“Instead of feeling like you are working, feel like you are dancing.” Named after Iris, the Greek goddess of the rainbow, the name Iris Avenue also has a personal meaning for both Amanda and Edward. “Iris is the goddess of the rainbow and when you are in a salon, we always talk about colour when it comes to having our nails done so

it just made sense. We have lived on avenues our entire lives so ‘Avenue’ was a personal touch from us.” Keen to grow, develop and nurture, the future is looking bright for the London-based salon. With a young, talented, innovative and happy team behind them, Amanda and Edward will continue to focus on customer service, creating experiences for more clients while developing relationships with existing ones. “Our goal for now is to grow the team and to learn more about what works and what doesn’t in the salon. We want to continue to offer a welcoming and friendly atmosphere and we are looking forward to seeing what the future holds.”

www.irisavenue.com

/irisavenueldn

@irisavenue_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77

Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

re you missing your mojo? A number of nail techs have told me that they have lost their confidence, energy and enthusiasm for the craft. How are you feeling? Are you struggling? Do you feel despondent? Are you fed up of the emotional rollercoaster you have found yourself riding? You’re not alone!

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness.

I believe that those working within nails and beauty are generally positive and motivated. They provide a fun, calm and relaxing atmosphere and a safe haven for clients to offload and indulge in some ‘me time’. However, an increasing number are questioning where their work mojo has gone and how they get it back. Here’s my advice:

Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments in which employees can enjoy working. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

Be kind & be honest with yourself

How I can help

Let me give you an analogy. You’re on a road trip with your partner. You mention to them that you think you are not going the right way. Your partner then gets a little frustrated insisting they are not lost and keeps going around in circles, causing more tension in the car and the relationship. Then, they pull out a map and admit defeat, turning to you and accepting that they are lost.

I offer a range of services, from informal phone calls to regular, structured coaching and hypnotherapy sessions. If you’d like to find out more about me, visit my website www.daveheffernan.com or feel free to call me for a chat on 07824 513120. Check out Dave’s Facebook group, which offers FREE weekly hypnosis and coaching sessions tackling issues such as anxiety, stress, confidence and self-esteem.

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

@daveheffernanltd

78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Often, the default reaction to feeling demotivated tends to be: pull yourself together, brush everything under the carpet and resist what is actually happening. Many try and keep busy but end up being unproductive just so they can avoid their thoughts and feelings – but this is where being honest is key. There is no shame in feeling low or lethargic when it comes to work. We have just gone through something that none of us have ever been through before. It’s OK not to be OK.

We can only move forward and get to our desired destination when we finally admit we are lost. And when we lose our mojo, it tends to mean, at some level, that we are lost. Embrace this and accept it. Once you have acknowledged your thoughts and feelings, some clarity will come and you will feel lighter. No good decision was ever

made while stressed. Once we relax, we can start looking for solutions.

Change your energy & lose all expectations Now you have a little clarity, summarise what is driving your behaviour. Is it work? Relationships? Finances? Once you have figured out the cause(s), look at how you view this. If your self-talk is consistently negative, it’s time for change. The brain delivers more of what it perceives you want, so negativity breeds negativity. By focusing on the things you don’t want, the brain is quite simply giving you more opportunities to feel that way. Start doing more things that make you happy. Do simple things like walking, dancing or put on some music. This will trigger the brain to start opening up opportunities to feel more positive. Do you remember the moment you qualified? Can you go back to that moment in time? Feel the emotion and remember the scene and the sounds. Now, do you remember your first customer? Can you feel the nerves and excitement? Can you remember your first positive review? How did that make you feel? When we lose our mojo, we constantly put a negative story in front of our minds that manifests more negativity. So, reflecting on positive times within your nail business and consistently reliving those moments will rewire the brain and motivate you to reconnect with your business. Even though we all say we are grateful for our customers, I still hear many people complaining about the lack of them. Focus on the ones you do have, make a point of looking at their eyes once you have finished doing their nails and seeing how happy you have made them. The more you remain present with each and every customer and focus on how you are making them feel, the quicker and easier it will be to reclaim that missing mojo. Said with love,

The Heff

WWW.MAGNETICNAILS .UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The business of

BEAUTY Nail expert, salon owner, educator & mentor, LIZA SMITH, shares her wisdom & advice to benefit your business

DO YOU HAVE A VISION FOR YOUR BUSINESS? 20/21 WINNER

What is a vision? A vision is the mental picture of the future you desire. More than a goal, a vision is the embodiment of our hopes and dreams; the picture of what has not yet happened but what you want the future to hold. In business, it is an extremely powerful tool to help you achieve the results you want. Visions are driven by passion and dreams, but they are reflected and achieved through real efforts to create real results. In my Business Of Salons membership aimed at salon professionals, ‘Vision’ is the first module we work through. Below is an extract of the first lesson in that module; questions that help you to unpack what your visions and goals are and find out if you need to change your business model. This part is going to be uncomfortable, but to loosen the screws on your business and assess it fully, you need to be honest with yourself and try to answer as instinctively as you can. Do not over-think, as there are no right or wrong answers.

How do you feel about your business model? Here are just a few questions that you should ask: • How much do you love it? • How easy it is for you? • How much money is it making for you right now (in your pocket)? • What part of your business would you like to do more of to achieve more money, and how much work would you need to do to reach that? • Who do you want to serve and how do you want to serve them? • Where do you need to fill any gaps? • What change do you want to see in yourself in the next 12 months, and what would stop you getting it? • If you could focus on just one goal, which one would you commit to? • How would achieving or getting that one thing make you feel? • What can you do today to take the first step in that direction? • How would reaching that goal impact your life/your family/your loved ones? • What drains your energy in your business? • From where or what in your business do you seek validation that it is succeeding? • What simple thing could you do to make a change in your business?

“Visions are driven by passion and dreams, but they are reflected and achieved through real efforts to create real results.”

Your business • In one sentence, describe what your business does. • What part of your business makes you glow inside? • What do you really want to happen in the next 12 months? • What things are you glad to see the back of? • What part of your business would you happily get rid of to do more of what you love? Which of the following apply to your business? Tick all that apply: ❏ Home salon ❏ Freelance professional ❏ Rent a chair/room ❏ Salon owner with no team ❏ Salon owner with self-employed team ❏ Salon owner with employed team ❏ Multiple salon owner

I understand that there are a lot of questions there – but if you want to really nail your vision, then you need to deal in the detail. When you have your answers, take a good look at them. These will help you to format your mission statement and to define your core values. A mission statement is a navigational tool to keep you on track. It will be like your North Star, pointing the way forward. It is a short summary of why your business exists; its essence, and it will help to shape your business strategies and give a clearer message to your clients. Your core values or beliefs are a central part of who you are and are unique to you. These values will be instrumental in forming the culture and the personality of your brand and your business.

www.thebusinessofsalons.com / www.bodylines.biz /thebusinessofsalonsacademy & /liza.smithnails

80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@thebusinessofsalonsacademy & @lizasmithnails

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Experts

BUSINESSMATTERS

ASK THE

Scratch pitches your pressing questions to those in-the-know…

How do you empower your employees & why is this so important? LUCY PASTORELLI Founder, LP Tools

“When someone feels empowered, it means that they have the confidence to accomplish something they may not have thought they could do. It’s important to establish a mutual trust, and allow for a comfortable environment in which ideas can be expressed.

“I’ve employed nail techs who were quite shy when they joined the team, but with the right support and encouragement they are now confidently running their own training courses and telling me how they think they can be improved. I like to listen and encourage their views, and then we work together to make it happen.” www.lpnails.com /lucypastorellinails @lucypastorellitools_

www.lizmckeon.com /liz.mckeon.9 @lizmckeonbizliz

“Empowerment is the degree of autonomy and self-determination in people, communities and businesses. It enables them to represent their interests in a responsible and self-determined way, acting on their own authority. It is the process of becoming stronger and more confident, especially in controlling your own life and claiming your rights.

“In order to implement a strategy of employee empowerment, you need to be able to trust your employees. Instead of micromanaging them, provide them with the tools and support necessary for success and trust them to manage their own column.

My top tips for empowering employees:

“Recognise employee achievements to help improve confidence levels and engage with your team to establish clear expectations and guidelines. Share your objectives and vision so that your team understands how its role contributes to overall salon success.

1. Include everyone

“You will see benefits such as an increased trust in leadership, improved motivation levels, increased creativity and higher levels of employee retention. All of this increased performance and productivity will also improve the bottom line of your business.”

“We all have an opinion, and so I make sure that each member of staff has a platform – whether they’ve been employed at LP for five weeks or five years. Every point of view is valid, and I encourage the team to share its ideas. I also like to get thoughts from the salon team on each and every product we launch, as our tools are created by nail techs for nail techs, so this is important.”

2. Promote equality “We’re all equal in the nail bar; there’s no hierarchy. I love sitting in the nail bar with the team to do my clients’ nails too. We’re like a big family – if someone is double-booked or running late, the team works together to help them out.”

3. Create a pleasant environment “As a team, we create a friendly environment for each other and for our clients. There’s always a great buzz in the salon and I can personally say I enjoy going into the salon every day. Providing team snacks in the kitchen for everyone definitely helps too!”

4. Boost morale “We like to do things as a team away from the salon, and I feel this really helps to keep spirits high. I have also gifted the team an LP tote bag and Champagne – just a little something to let them know they are appreciated.” 82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

LIZ MCKEON Salon business expert

My top tips for empowering employees: 1. Be encouraging “Recognise great work and celebrate employee achievements. This will help them feel more empowered and push them to continuously improve their performance. Support, encourage and praise your employees and show that you are invested in them.”

2. Ask for feedback “Show your staff members that what they say matters and encourage your employees to provide regular and honest feedback. Continuous performance monitoring establishes open channels of communication and transparent dialogue.”

3. Provide learning & development “Help your staff to develop professionally and continuously encourage them to improve their skills and knowledge. Reward exceptional workers and design a clear path for development so that they strive to achieve their next goal.”

4. Offer support “Make sure your team knows that you are there to support them because you care about their contribution to the overall success of the business.”

BUSINESSMATTERS SUSAN ROUTLEDGE Beauty business expert

“I consider staff empowerment as helping to identify an individual’s true potential and then helping them to grow and develop within a company. This in turn keeps them focused, motivated and feeling valued, with a definite career path, while staying true to the company’s shared goals and values.

www.susanroutledge.com /SusanRoutledgeConsultancy @susan_routledge

“It has been proven that the most important factor and motivator of a staff member is feeling that they are an important part of the company and that they are valued. This consistently sits higher in surveys than any monetary gain.”

My top tips for empowering employees: 1. Establish team culture “Empowering your team needs to be built into the culture of the business, from official systems in place, right through to a simple ‘thank you’ and recognition for small tasks well done.”

2. Create a plan for each employee “Each member of a team is an individual with different wants and needs, therefore it is essential to have an individual plan with each employee to develop them through your company. They should always be able to understand your vision of the company’s bigger picture and how their input is an essential part of not only their own development, but as a huge part of the business’ progression.”

3. Give employees your time

“Help your staff to develop professionally and continuously encourage them to improve their skills and knowledge. Reward exceptional workers and design a clear path for development so that they strive to achieve their next goal.”

“Empowerment is taking your employee on a journey with you, where they can develop to be their best version of themselves and to achieve both career and personal goals. It is very important to take the time to find out what motivates each individual and to help develop their aspirations and dreams for the future.”

4. Consider different motivators “Great motivators can be having a training programme, regular individual and team meetings, consistent praise for a job well done and involving your team in company decisions. Paint the bigger picture for a positive long-term culture, instil job security and flexibility when necessary and create a safe, positive, professional, proactive work environment.”

#FABFOLLOW

Check out five empowering Instagram accounts you need to follow… @makerswomen accelerates the women’s movement through stories of real-life experiences, inspiring speeches and enlightening interviews. Be prepared to be seriously inspired. @ladiesgetpaid offers career advice and resources to help grow your career and climb the career ladder, or get that job you really want. The account holds weekly webinars on how to level-up in a male-dominated field. @femalecollective is a platform where ‘women are celebrated, uplifted, supported, and empowered every day.’ It provides motivational quotes about self-love, feminism, and mental health. @girlboss serves up funny and relatable daily memes and videos about life and work, and we’re sure you’ll be tagging your friends and colleagues in posts. @clawgasmic is founded by our fab Scratch columnist, Chan Vermont, and partner Jouvan, and helps nail techs worldwide learn new skills, build their confidence and grow their businesses. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

Haute Couture

s e hu

Scratch puts the focus on the high fashion brands dipping their toes into nail colour lines…

DOLCE & GABBANA

Named ‘The Nail Lacquer’, D&G’s enamel line ‘fuses fashion and beauty to create the perfect colour-rich manicure’. Shoppers can choose from 43 shades and textures, from vibrant brights to delicate neutrals, inspired by runway looks. The round brush has been designed for smooth, streak-free application and eight of the shades have been precisely matched to the brand’s Classic Cream Lipstick shades.

Instagram.com/louboutinbeauty

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

From stiletto red soles to stiletto shaped nail bottles; Louboutin’s much talkedabout lacquer line features classic hues, from Rouge Louboutin to the black Khôl and the more recently launched matte finishes. The iconic eight-inch stiletto cap tops the weighted glass bottle and is inspired by the ‘Ballerina Ultima’ – Christian Louboutin’s tallest heel. The luxury lacquers in the matte collection retail at £44 per bottle and a Matte Base Coat and Top Coat are also available as part of a kit. 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Instagram.com/yslbeauty

Another luxury nail line? Y-yes-L! Yves Saint Laurent has dipped into the nail-verse with its La Laque Couture Nail Polish. The rose oil-infused, long-lasting and moisturising formula has gained the luxe approval, earning a 4.4 star rating on the brand’s website. Packaged in a glass rectangular bottle and finished with a gold logo engraved cap, the polish is available in 24 shades.

CHANEL

Facebook.com/Dior-Beauty

Birkin owners can match their manis to their handbags, as Hermès has become the latest luxury brand to serve up a nail line. Les Mains Hermès launched on 15 October with a collection in which ‘care and beauty echo each other’. Joining 24 nail polish hues is a hand care cream, nail and cuticle oil, a protective base coat, top coat and a set of nail files. The bottle boasts a sophisticated round shape and the renowned Hermès Paris logo sits proudly in the centre. A gold and white two-toned lid ensures the lacquer range lives up to luxe expectations.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

Instagram.com/chanel.beauty

HERMÈS

Facebook.com/DolceGabbana

Instagram.com/hermes

BY LILLY DELMAGE

DIOR

Available in vibrant, refined shades to make a statement, Dior nail lacquers are inspired by designer Christian Dior’s, favourite colours and those that feature in the world of couture. The formula of the 25 Dior Vernis shades offers an ultrashiny look. Alongside the staple shades are limited edition products; a Color Games scented nail lacquer, a trio of gel effect finishes and two shades in a round couture bottle, as well as glitter top coat.

Chanel’s ‘Le Vernis’ (French for ‘the nail polish’) range retails from £24 per bottle, and is described as ‘longwear nail colour’. Twenty-seven shades are available, with the recent Fall/Winter 2021 collection featuring four complementary mini bundles – Khaki Harmony, Silver Grey Harmony, Brownish Red Harmony and Champagne Harmony. Each includes a nail polish, 3-in-1 eye pen and liquid eyeshadow for a colour co-ordinated result. Also in the nail range is Boy De Chanel – a matte nail lacquer, Le Dissolvant Douceur – nail enamel remover, La Base, Le Top Coat and Le Gel Coat, a longwear top coat.

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STYLE&DESIGN

r u o l o c

See the world in EMMA HOBDAY explores the rules of colour theory & how it can support your nail artistry

o your clients take an age to choose a nail shade? Selecting a nail hue or style is based on intuition – and the colour they’re most drawn to in that exact moment. Enter the world of colour theory: how to use the colour wheel and choose colours in a mindful way to produce designs that don’t clash or conflict.

Nail aficionado and artist, Sam Biddle, says that colour theory is the simple formulation of combining colours that work well together ‘in harmony’, using the colour wheel to give you a visual reference. “According to this theory, these combinations use any two colours opposite each other on the colour wheel, Sam Biddle any three colours equally spaced around the wheel to form a triangle, or any four colours to form a rectangle,” reveals Sam. “Any of these colour combinations are called ‘colour schemes’ and will remain harmonious, regardless of the rotation angle.” Colour theory only looks at the relationships of pure colours and does not take colour lightness and saturation into account, but you can use any tints, shades, and tones of the colour selected. “My advice is that if you’re choosing three colours, keep the shades the same; all bright, or all pastel for example, to make the nail less busy,” reveals Sam. 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Primary colours are red, blue and yellow, and you can mix any of these colours to reveal another colour, called a secondary colour. For example, blue and red to make purple, red and yellow to make orange, and blue and yellow to make green. The exact shade or hue of the secondary colour will depend on which shade of red, blue or yellow you have mixed, and what quantities you have used. Holly Schippers, known in the industry as The FingerNail Fixer, explains that the best nail colours for certain skin tones generally follow the same rules, with warm colours being red, yellow, and orange, and cool colours being blue, green and purple. “Some exceptions can occur Holly Schippers when polish has a shimmery undertone, for example, gold shimmers would be warm and silver based shimmers would be cool,” comments Holly. “There are also exceptions like olive green, which is warm (it has a yellow undertone) and royal purple (it has a red undertone) which tends to be cool. Neutral skin tones have the best of both worlds as they look great with everything!” Sam expresses the importance of using colour to create a harmonious nail design – but what does this mean? “It is a nail design that is balanced and pleasing to the eye,” she reveals. “I always say ‘does the nail sing?’ Does your nail design engage the viewer and create an inner sense of order and balance?”

STYLE&DESIGN COLOURS & CHAKRAS

Chanel Marie

Nail design by Holly Schippers

“It is important to create a harmonious balance of colours on your nails,” she continues. “When something is not harmonious, it’s either boring or chaotic. The human brain will reject understimulating information, in other words, boring nails! Or are the nails so overdone and chaotic that the viewer can’t stand to look at them? The human brain rejects what it can’t organise and what it can’t understand.” The educator advises to choose a colour on the colour wheel, with the two colours on either side reinforcing your colour and giving you more scope for your design. The colour directly opposite your chosen colour will complement it. “While the shades may vary, try and keep the colour combinations in your chosen colour scheme to one tint, shade or tone,” Sam affirms.

“When something is not harmonious, it’s either boring or chaotic.” Sam Biddle

HUES, TINTS & TONES: THE LOWDOWN A hue is any colour on the colour wheel. Tints, tones, and shades are variations of the hues found on the colour wheel when white, black or both are mixed in, which lightens or darkens the colour.

“Tints are created when you add white to any hue on the colour wheel,” explains Sam Biddle. “This will lighten and desaturate the hue, making it less intense. Tints are often referred to as pastel colours, and many feel they are calmer, quieter colours. “Tones are created when you add both black and white to a hue. Depending on the proportions of black, white and the original hue used, tones can be darker or lighter than the original, and will also appear less saturated or intense.” Shades are created when only black is added to a hue, resulting in a rich, darker colour. “Due to the overpowering nature of many black pigments, adding black to a hue is a tricky and sometimes frustrating exercise when mixing colours,” Sam continues. “Many blacks will change the character of a hue even in small amounts, so they should be used sparingly – or you can use another dark hue rather than black.” Holly loves colour theory for the reason that no colour is off limits to anyone. Contrary to popular opinion, she believes anyone can wear any colour. “For example, every single client could wear red if they wanted to – you just need to choose the correct red for their skin tone; whether it’s a yellow based ‘warm’ red, more of a neutral red, or a blue based ‘cool’ red,” she smiles.

Psychic healing teacher and nail tech, Chanel Marie, uses the body’s chakras to make choices about nail colour. “Our body has seven main chakras that run along the spine, as the spinal cord is the main channel for our nervous system to power our entire body through signals and messages from the brain,” Chanel reveals.

“Each chakra resonates with an area of your body, emotions, colours, thoughts and actions. However, as you go through the ups and downs of life, your chakras can become unbalanced or blocked; for example, a blocked heart chakra can manifest as not being unable to forgive, feeling jealous or lacking selflove. Working with colour is a good starting point to balance your chakras,” she smiles. So what are the meanings behind different colour choices, and how do they support chakra balancing and healing? Chanel explains all: RED is the root chakra, found at the base of the spine. “This chakra develops in the first seven years of our life and relates to survival, safety and stability. When this chakra is out of balance, you can feel anxious, unsafe and disconnected from yourself or others.” ORANGE is the sacral chakra, found above the pelvic bone. “The sacral chakra relates to sexuality, emotions, creativity and co-creation. Imbalances can manifest as neediness, emotional imbalances, being judgemental or having a low libido.” YELLOW is the solar plexus chakra, which resides in the abdomen. “It’s the home of confidence, willpower and boundaries, and connecting and awakening the realest version of you. If this chakra is out of balance, it can link to digestive issues and being demotivated, with a lack of self-confidence or self-esteem.” GREEN is the heart chakra, located in the centre of your chest. “This chakra relates to your ability to give and receive unconditional love. Imbalance can manifest as seeking validation, or feeling jealous or unworthy.” BLUE is the throat chakra which is found in the neck. “The throat chakra relates to communication, including how you speak to yourself. Throat chakra imbalances can provide fear of expressing your true self, lying, gossiping or unable to speak your truth.” INDIGO is the third eye chakra, found at the centre of the forehead between the eyebrows. “The third eye chakra connects you to your intuition and inner vision. An imbalanced third eye chakra can manifest as a lack of imagination, a lack of clarity and vision, or creative blocks.” VIOLET is the crown chakra, found at the top of your head. “It relates to your connection with your higher self. Imbalance can manifest as lack of vision, feeling disconnected from yourself and others, or feeling lonely.” Chanel recommends inviting your clients to deviate from their usual colour choices and to tap into their own intuition, to see what colour they become drawn to. “However, balancing the nail set or design with nude or brown shades will always bring in a grounded energy, while black brings in a vibe of protection. But whatever colour you choose, working with chakra colours is about being guided, intentional and allowing freedom of expression.” @_iamchanelmarie

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 87

Bright Sparks PRODIY

Remember, remember – Bonfire Night & party season call for flashes of colour & sparkle. Here, Pure Nails techs showcase designs that will make clients ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’…

FABULOUS FIREWORKS

By Tina Bell, head of education for Pure Nails Step 1 Prep the nail, apply a coat of Halo Gel Polish Base Coat and cure. Apply two coats of Halo Gel Polish in Black, curing in between each coat for 30 seconds. Apply one coat of Halo Gel Polish Sparkle Top Coat and cure for 30 seconds.

COLOURFUL CATHERINE WHEELS By Luci Goodyear, Pure Nails educator Step 1 Following nail prep, apply Halo Gel Polish Base Coat and cure for 30 seconds. Next, apply a thin coat of Halo Gel Polish in Spellbound and cure. Step 2 Apply a thin coat of Halo Gel Polish in Black Magic and cure, followed by Non Wipe Top Coat. Cure, then select a variety of Halo Create Chrome shades. Step 3 Use the Halo Create Silicon Nail Art Tool to burnish your chosen chrome shades across the nail. Step 4 Use a fine liner brush to paint Halo Foil Transfer Gel in circular shapes across the nail. Cure for 45 seconds. Step 5 Apply gold Halo Create Foil onto the Foil Transfer Gel and rub on for even coverage. Step 6 Use a fine liner brush to paint a broken line around the foil in Halo Gel Polish French White to show the movement of a Catherine Wheel. Cure.

Step 2 Choose a selection of bright Halo Create Chrome Powders, and mix each on a palette with a small amount of Halo Gel Polish Base Coat. Step 3 Using a striping brush and two shades from Step 2, paint lines on the nail in the shape of fireworks. Flash cure. Step 4 Continue across the nail using different shades of the chrome mix, starting with the bold colours and using gold and silver to add accents to the design. Flash cure in between the application of colours to avoid colour mixing. Once finished, cure for 30 seconds. Step 5 Use a dotting tool and Halo Gel Polish in French White to paint small stars and dots onto the nail to add depth and dimension. Cure for 30 seconds. Finish with an application of Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat and cure for 30 seconds.

Step 7 Apply Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat to finish and cure for 30 seconds.

Halo Gel Polish Sparkle Top Coat £5.49 + VAT

Halo Gel Polish in Black £5.49 + VAT

Halo Create Chrome Powder in #BeRegal £2.49 + VAT

88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Halo Create Silicone Nail Art Tools £5.99 + VAT

Halo Create Foil Transfer Gel £7.95 + VAT

Halo Create Chrome Powders in #BeDetermined & #Be Empowered £2.49 + VAT each

Pure Nails & Halo Gel Polish products are available via www.purenails.co & associated stockists. /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

LET’S TALK ABOUT MATERNITY

ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

s I prepare for maternity leave, I have started to notice more requests for guidance around maternity pay for employers and self employed workers. I’m not sure if it’s the algorithm that has changed since I started reading more about each stage of my own pregnancy, or if we are in the middle of a postpandemic baby boom. There are different types of maternity leave and pay so it is important to know which one is available as the employer or the expectant mother. Employers are required to make statutory payments to staff including maternity pay.

Statutory Leave & Pay Introduction • Up to 52 weeks’ leave and a minimum of two weeks must be taken after birth. • There are conditions to qualify for statutory maternity pay [SMP] and this is paid for up to 39 weeks during the maternity leave. • To qualify, an employee must have at least 26 weeks’ service before what we call the ‘qualifying week’ in pregnancy and still be employed during the qualifying week. Income must also be above the lower earnings limit to qualify

(currently £120 per week for 21/22) and the correct notice must be given. • SMP is 90% of average weekly earnings [AWE] for the first six weeks of maternity leave and then this changes to the lower of 90% AWE and £151.97 each week (21/22 rates).

Statutory Adoption Leave & Pay • Generally up to 52 weeks. • There are conditions to qualify for statutory adoption pay [SAP] which is paid for up to 39 weeks. • To qualify, an employee must have at least 26 weeks’ service before being matched with a child. Income must be above the lower earnings limit in an eight-week period (currently £120 per week for 21/22) and the correct notice and proof of adoption must be given. • SAP is 90% of average weekly earnings [AWE] for the first six weeks of maternity leave and then this changes to the lower of 90% AWE and £151.97 for the next 33 weeks (21/22 rates).

Statutory Paternity Leave & Pay • Available for employees who have partners having a baby or adopting a child. This leave can be taken in blocks of one or two weeks paid leave.

“If employees do not qualify for maternity pay, there is an alternative option known as the maternity allowance (MA) and this can be claimed from 26 weeks’ gestation with payments starting up to 11 weeks before the birth date.” 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

• There are conditions to qualify for statutory paternity pay [SPP]. The leave cannot start before the birth or due date. The rules vary if you adopt so check out gov.uk for more information. • To qualify, an employee must have at least 26 weeks’ service before the qualifying week, employed up to the birth date, earn above £120 per week before tax (for 21/22) and the correct notice and proof of adoption must be given. • SPP is the lower of 90% AWE and £151.97 (21/22 rates).

Shared Parental Leave This is something that I had not heard much about in practice until speaking at an event @thestack.world hosted by Sharmadean Reid. A fellow panellist shared their story on this type of leave. It gave me plenty to think about and is something that I will be considering myself. • An alternative to the previous options. To use shared leave, maternity leave of SMP/SAP must be ended early. • Pay is available as Shared Parental Pay (SHPP) and can be shared between both partners. If eligible for SMP or SAP, then employee will be eligible for SHPP. • Leave can be taken in three separate blocks per partner and can be taken at the same time. • Several conditions must be met such as; shared responsibility for child, 26 weeks’ continuous employment up to the qualifying week.

Maternity Allowance If employees do not qualify for maternity pay, there is an alternative option known as the maternity allowance (MA) and this can be claimed from 26 weeks’ gestation with payments starting up to 11 weeks before the birth date. • Available for those that do not qualify for other maternity pay schemes and were employed or registered as self-employed. • The earnings limit to qualify is £30 a week or more in at least 13 weeks. • The allowance is £151.97 (21/22 rates) or 90% of average weekly earnings, if employed and between £27 and £151.97 per week if self employed. There are further qualifying criteria for the self employed so get in touch for more information, but as a start you must be

registered and have paid enough class two National Insurance. • MA is paid for up to 39 weeks. One of the biggest fears among employers is affording maternity pay. Employers can recover 92% of maternity pay back from HMRC and ‘small employers’ can recover the full amount PLUS a supplement, currently 3%. For more details on managing maternity pay, the recovery of maternity pay and reporting, get in touch. Remember - these rates will change each tax year.

www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /thebeautyaccountantuk @thebeautyaccountant_uk Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group

“One of the biggest fears among employers is affording maternity pay. Employers can recover 92% of maternity pay back from HMRC and ‘small employers’ can recover the full amount PLUS a supplement.”

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 91

TECHTALK

Meet the talented nailist who scooped a Scratch Star for her stunning polish & paint skills…

MINUTES WITH…

SARAH KAY ABBOTT

irkaldy-based nail stylist, Sarah Kay Abbott, scooped the Scratch Stars Polish & Paint Artist of the Year title at the Scratch Stars Party 20/21 owing to her passion for the craft, incredible artistic skills and keen focus on client care. “I wasn’t initially going to apply, but I saw it advertised one day and I had this feeling that I should just go for it,” Sarah reveals. “I wanted to apply to see if my skills were as good as the other amazingly talented techs and nail artists that I had seen previously at the Scratch Stars Awards.” Scratch magazine launched the Scratch Stars Awards in 2012 to highlight fantastic techs, salons, teams and businesses across the UK nail sector, with Sarah choosing to enter two artistic categories; Polish & Paint Artist of the Year and Mixed Media Artist of the Year. Sarah was thrilled to be selected as a finalist in both, as this was one of the most important things on her bucket list that she wanted to accomplish, in addition to going one step further and winning one of the categories.

“Sarah humbly admits she never thought she would win on her first time entering the competition, and that being handed the golden star trophy felt surreal.” 92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

20/21 WINNER

While in previous years, the judging process for both awards has taken place in person at LCBT, London, challenges brought on by the pandemic saw the competition move over to Zoom. Both categories required a design to be created over the video platform in just 60 minutes, with the theme for the Polish & Paint Artist category being ‘I Have A Dream’. However, the pressure of choosing a design was palpable, and Sarah kept changing her mind about what to create. “I sketched out a few ideas, but I just couldn’t decide what I wanted to create,” she reveals. “I would paint Martin Luther King’s face, then add a quote. But I really wasn’t happy with how it looked, so a week before the judging process I changed my entire design,” Sarah comments. Sarah nailed the look, and before she knew it, she was excitedly travelling to the

Scratch Stars Party with her best friend. “I was so looking forward to meeting new people and to enjoy the night, as it was the first time I’d had an evening out since the pandemic began,” says Sarah. When the categories were announced and the finalists’ names read out, Sarah felt honoured to see herself on screen besides other very talented techs. “When it was time to announce the winner, I was getting ready to clap and cheer, until I heard my name read out! I couldn’t believe it, little old me from Scotland, and not very well known, had won!” Sarah humbly admits she never thought she would win on her first time entering the competition, and that being handed the golden star trophy felt surreal. Sarah was hugely congratulated by her friends and immediately FaceTimed her partner and children to proudly show off her trophy. “Hearing my children saying how proud they are of me makes it all worth it,” Sarah smiles. Her trophy is now sat in prime position beside the gifted tech’s other accolades. What does the future hold for this award winner? “I plan on continuing my education within the nail and beauty industry, so that I can offer up-to-date courses and increase my knowledge in my teaching subjects. I would also love to take part in more competitions!” /s4r4habbott @sarahabbott_nailartist /sarahabbott1000

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

Back to the 90s

Singer, Lizzo, was seen sporting a look that couldn’t be more 90s! Showing off a shoulder-length bob, she paired her outfit with a long, square-tipped manicure featuring Burberry plaid nail art. We are getting Clueless vibes and we are here for it!

Instagram

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Team Scratch is lusting over marble nail art; a popular trend that stands the test of time and continues to dominate our Insta feed.

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...

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CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

Mark Wahlberg… the nail art model

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American actor, film producer and businessman, Mark Wahlberg, has added another job to his ever extending resume as a nail art model. Taking to Instagram, Wahlberg posted a video of his 10-year-old daughter Grace, giving him a manicure with pink nail polish. Scan here to watch the video...

MARY J VIBES

96 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

udinecoo .com/cla

British make-up artist and brand founder, Charlotte Tilbury, was spotted wearing Magpie Beauty’s Build Me Up Builder Gel in Blush courtesy of Claudine Cooke Beauty.

kebeauty

BLUSH ME UP

Instagram

Instagram.co

m/nickyhausn

ails

Celebrity nail artist, Jenny Bui, embraced autumnal nail styling for her client, singer Mary J Blige. She used OPI GelColor shades Como Se Llama and Marigolden Hour and added some dazzling crystals to complete the look.

Instagram.co

m/theestallio

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SCRATCHMEDIA

‘

READY TO PARTY WITH JLO

OUT OF THIS WORLD NAILS

Actress and singer, Jennifer Lopez, was papped sporting CND™’s deep red nail shade, Signature Lipstick, from the Party Ready collection at Global Citizen Live, courtesy of her go-to manicurist, Tom Bachik. The Party Ready collection is available via www.sweetsquared.com

Instagram.co

m/kourtneyka

Instagram

rdash

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nailslond

American rapper, Megan Thee Stallion, debuted a fresh set of galaxy themed nails on her Instagram feed featuring a medley of planets and stars on each nail.

ock

NAIL ROCK

Dwayne Johnson, aka The Rock, took to Instagram to show off his nail art skills as he gave his daughter a manicure with his ‘dinosaur hands.’ The Rock was seen using a file and applying a silver, sparkly polish.

.com/ther

ased nail Los Angeles-b uong aka artist, Kim Tr , created @kimkimnails egative n a slick black ith w n space desig e ap sh an oval ey n rt for Kou d Kardashian an g n vi we are lo t the minimalis sed u g on look. Tru e tl ot B The Gel Inc shades in Au Jet Black and ble via Naturel, availa ottle.com www.thegelb

Instagram

MANI SPOT!

Holly & Rose Turning to her resident manicurist, Anne Rose of Ann Nails London, This Morning star Holly Willoughby chose OPI’s Tickle My France-y shade for her autumn nail style on almond-shaped nails. The OPI shade is available via www.opiuk.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97

NAILDESIGNS

Shades of pink and black paired with iridescent foil dominate this eye-catching design by @kirisklaws.

@nessasnails9 upgrades the classic French mani with this oh-so colourful design using glass-like decals.

@sooshpaint adds plenty of shimmer and sparkle to this stylish and sophisticated kaleidoscope-inspired nail style.

Fingernails in Get lost in a whirl of shapes and colours with CALLIE ILEY’S roundup of kaleidoscopic nail styles…

Focus

This striking design by @luxe_by_lynnette is offset with delicate lilac feature nails and plenty of glitz.

Gold foil, stars and lots of colour capture attention in this nail look by @ashleys.esthetics1.

We could stare at this rainbow nail artistry by @pressedbyvirgo all day – and we adore the sparkly additions.

This mesmerising design by @nailed_by_alina is perfect for party season and looks chic with an ebony feature nail.

These enchanting and enhanced kaleidoscopic nails by @brezyynails feature all the shades of the rainbow.

@kimloveznails serves up this gorgeous glittery nail look using shades of green, blue and purple with flecks of sparkle.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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