Scuba Diver #39

OFF TO HONDURAS

BACK TO THE FREEZER

Q&A: DAVID ALLEN

MICHELE WESTMORLAND EXPLORES THE BAY ISLANDS ABOARD A LUXURY YACHT

BYRON CONROY EXTOLS THE VIRTUES OF ICELAND AS THE ULTIMATE LONG-WEEKENDER

WE FIND OUT WHAT GOES INTO DAVID ALLEN'S STUNNING B&W DRAWINGS

JASON BROWN DOSES UP ON VITAMIN 'SEA' WITH A TRIP TO DORSET'S CHESIL BEACH #39 | £1

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EDITOR’S NOTE IT FEELS GOOD TO BE BACK POST-COVID-19!

Times are changing, and to keep the magazine free, we’re asking dive stores to cover their own postage costs. If you enjoy reading the magazine, think about helping out your centre with a small donation to help cover their costs.

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Mark Evans Tel: 0800 0 69 81 40 ext 700 Email: mark.evans@scubadivermag.com

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com

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MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTORS

Jason Brown, Stuart Philpott, Byron Conroy, Michele Westmorland

I think that it is safe to say that was the longest enforced ‘surface interval’ I have endured in more than 35 years of diving! I simply cannot remember the last time I was out of the water for over three months!

Living in land-locked Shropshire, I was miles away from any diveable coastline when England reopened for shore diving, so that wasn’t a sensible option, but my gills were getting so dried out, I was eyeing up the local river for a swift dip!

Normally, when I want to hit the salty stuff, I head west to Anglesey and mainland North Wales, but as I write this, sadly the border is still closed, and I just have to sob quietly into a comforting beer as I gaze longingly at the tantalising images of Trearddur Bay looking like the Mediterranean.

This was probably the best weather from Easter that we have had in a long time, which made the lockdown from COVID-19 even more frustrating, as we all knew what awesome diving conditions we were missing out on.

But diving - and life in general - is slowly but surely heading towards some semblance of normality.

Shore diving is now taking place in England, Scotland and Wales (though in the latter two, you presently have to live in-country and be within a few miles of the sea), and hopefully boat diving won’t be far behind.

When travel will get back up and running is anyone’s guess at the moment, but that means it is a prime time to explore the offerings within our own country, even if you maybe have never been tempted to dip your toe in before.

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Copyright for material published remains with Rork Media Limited. Use of material from Scuba Diver is strictly prohibited unless permission is given. All advertisements of which the creative content is in whole or in part the work of Rork Media Limited remain the copyright of Rork Media Limited.

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OFF TO HONDURAS

BACK TO THE FREEZER

Q&A: DAVID ALLEN

MICHELE WESTMORLAND EXPLORES THE BAY ISLANDS ABOARD A LUXURY YACHT

BYRON CONROY EXTOLS THE VIRTUES OF ICELAND AS THE ULTIMATE LONG-WEEKENDER

WE FIND OUT WHAT GOES INTO DAVID ALLEN'S STUNNING B&W DRAWINGS

JASON BROWN DOSES UP ON VITAMIN 'SEA' WITH A TRIP TO DORSET'S CHESIL BEACH #39 | £1

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26/06/2020 10:53

REGULAR COLUMNS

FEATURES...

10 News

24 First UK dive after COVID-19 pandemic

New seagrass nursery, Fellowship of The Explorers Club for Nick Lyon, protection for a German battleship, body found in search for Dorset snorkeller, and an offer from Scubapro.

36 Divers Alert Network

The DAN Europe team offers advice on diving with diabetes, looking at the latest research and guidelines.

48 Underwater Photography

Mario Vitalini continues his series looking at particular photographic subjects, in this instance, the humble moray eel.

66 OWUSS Scholarship

Part two of Kim Hildebrandt’s epic trip to Antarctica.

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We have all been going a little stir-crazy during the COVID-19 pandemic and its associated lockdown, but now that restrictions are slowly being relaxed and we can get out and about more, Jason Brown wasted no time in heading to his favourite South Coast dive spot - Chesil Beach - for his first dive in months. To say he was a little bit excited is an understatement.

30 Honduras

Michele Westmorland heads to the southern Caribbean to explore the Bay Islands of Honduras, particularly Roatan, aboard the Roatan Aggressor luxury yacht and finds a rich blend of healthy coral reefs, diverse wildlife and intriguing shipwrecks.

38 South Coast shore dive overview

As we go to press, UK dive charter boats are still not allowed to operate, so to get you all out diving, Stuart Philpott provides an overview of some of the most-popular - and some lesser-known - shore dives along the South Coast, from Dorset, through Devon and into Cornwall.

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CONTENTS

...CONTINUED

GEAR GUIDE

44 Q&A: David Allen

Due to COVID-19 restrictions severely limiting the ability to travel, until a couple of days before press day, we had been unable to venture out and get into the water to go diving with the latest test products. Group Tests will resume next month, but in the meantime, here is a What’s New of products released on to the market in the last few months, and a Test Extra.

We speak to talented artist David Allen, who is inspired by creatures that he encountered during several years of working as a diving guide and instructor. He specialises in producing exquisitely beautiful black-andwhite drawings of marine life which are so strikingly life-like they are often mistaken for actual photographs.

52 Iceland

Iceland seemingly dealt with the COVID-19 pandemic in a timely manner, and as Byron Conroy explains, this island wilderness promises the perfect adventurous escape for a long weekend, combining unique dive sites with amazing topside activities.

58 Papua New Guinea

Australasian Our-World Underwater Scholar Joanna Smart heads to the wild, untamed island nation of Papua New Guinea, and finds it visually arresting both topside and underwater.

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62 What’s New

We take a look at new products to market, including the Fourth Element summer collection, and KUBI’s Icelandic wool gloves.

64 Gear Guide: Test Extra

Editor-in-Chief Mark Evans takes the Scubapro MK25 EVO / D420 regulator for a spin, and is impressed by the smooth breath, comfort and build quality of this top-end reg.

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WHERE IT ALL BEGINS WWW.EGYPT.TRAVEL

SHARM EL SHEIKH THIS IS RUSH HOUR

ASK YOUR TRAVEL AGENT

Each month, we bring together the latest industry news from right here in the UK, as well as all over our water planet. To find out the most up-to-date news and views, check out the website or follow us on our various social media (@scubadivermag) www.scubadivermag.com/news

REPORT ON NEW CALEDONIA’S

CORAL REEFS OFFERS A GLIMMER OF HOPE FOR THE FUTURE

S

cientists on the Global Reef Expedition have surveyed and mapped New Caledonia’s most remote coral reefs – some for the first time.

A new report from the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation (KSLOF) provides a promising assessment of the status of coral reefs in New Caledonia. The Global Reef Expedition: New Caledonia Final Report summarizes the Foundation’s findings from a research mission to study the health and resiliency of the coral reefs of New Caledonia, part of KSLOF’s larger efforts to study the reef crisis unfolding around the world. They found many of the coral reefs to be in surprisingly good health, even in unexpected places.

This research initiative was conducted as part of the Global Reef Expedition, a five-year scientific mission that circumnavigated the globe to collect valuable baseline data on the state of the reefs and the threats they face. Of the 22 research missions, the Foundation conducted in the western Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans, the reefs of New Caledonia stood apart as some of the most beautiful and well-preserved.

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“The reefs of New Caledonia are simply spectacular.

Incredible diversity. Remarkable morphology,” said Dr Sam Purkis, KSLOF’s Chief Scientist as well as Professor and Chair of the Department of Marine Geosciences at the University of Miami’s Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science.

“But in New Caledonia, as elsewhere, the reefs are gravely threatened by local impacts and climate change. The Living Oceans Foundation achieved two important objectives in the country – first, they mapped, using satellite, many of the remotest reef systems in New Caledonia for the first time.

Second, the field data collected by the Foundation set a baseline condition for these reefs which can be tracked into the future to understand change.

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“We hope that future change takes the form of an improving condition of the reefs, as new conservation initiatives are sparked by the Living Oceans dataset.”

Working closely with local experts, researchers from the Institut de Recherche pour le Développment (IRD), and marine scientists from around the world, scientists at the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation spent more than one month at sea conducting comprehensive surveys of the coral reefs and their fish in New Caledonia, as well as creating detailed seabed maps. In October and November of 2013, these scientists conducted over 1,000 surveys of corals and reef fish and mapped over 2,600 km2 of shallow-water marine habitats in 10 locations throughout the country, including reefs in the Entrecasteaux Atolls, Cook Reef, Ile des Pins, and Prony Bay. On the Global Reef Expedition mission to New Caledonia, scientists found most of the reefs to be relatively healthy, with abundant and diverse coral and fish communities. Reefs far from shore, or protected in Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), were in particularly good condition, but many nearshore reefs showed signs of fishing pressure with few large and commercially valuable fish. One notable exception was Prony Bay, which had the highest live coral cover observed in New Caledonia.

“One of our most surprising findings from New Caledonia was coral reefs thriving in unexpected locations, such as Prony Bay,” said Alexandra Dempsey, the Director of Science Management at KSLOF and one of the report’s authors, who was shocked to find such high coral cover in the bay’s murky waters. This was unexpected given the nutrient and sediment runoff from nearby copper mines and the presence of hydrothermal vents in the bay.

New Caledonia is a global leader in marine conservation.

Home to the second largest MPA in the world, New Caledonia has already made great strides to protect their reefs and coastal marine resources. The report released today provides new information on the status of coral reefs and reef fish in New Caledonia, including baseline information on reefs inside Le Parc Naturel de la Mer de Corail, an MPA established in 2014.

“This report provides government officials, marine park managers, and the people of New Caledonia with relevant information and recommendations they can use to effectively manage their reefs and coastal marine resources,” said Renée Carlton, a Marine Ecologist with the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation and one of the authors of the report. “ n

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The wreck of a pre-World War One German battleship, SMS Grosser Kurfürst, which sank off the Kent coast in 1878, along with a Folkestone memorial which pays tribute to the 284 men who lost their lives, have been granted protection by the Department for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport on the advice of Historic England.

The wreck of the ‘ironclad’ has been scheduled and added to the National Heritage List for England. Scheduling means that recreational divers have permission to dive the wreck, but its contents are given a level of protection. The associated war memorial at Cheriton Road Cemetery in Folkestone has been listed at Grade II. In May 1878, while preparing for annual summer training sessions in the English Channel, SMS Grosser Kurfürst was accidently rammed by another German warship Konig Wilhelm while it was turning to avoid colliding with a pair of sailing ships. The Konig Wilhelm’s strengthened ram bow, designed to sink enemy ships, ripped away armour plating and gouged a huge hole in the side of SMS Grosser Kurfürst. It sank rapidly with the loss of 284 men. Many of the recovered bodies were interred in Cheriton Road Cemetery in Folkestone. The large memorial there is in honour of those who lost their lives on board the ship, which has been protected today. Heritage Minister Nigel Huddleston said: “The listing of the SMS Grosser Kurfürst and the memorial plaque is a fitting tribute to the 284 men who died when the ship sank more than 130 years ago. I hope that the increased protection for both sites will ensure that the ingenuity of the early ironclad ships and their influence on modern navy vessels is not forgotten.”

Duncan Wilson, Chief Executive of Historic England said: “This historic shipwreck tells the story of Germany’s increasing naval strength in the late19th century at a time when Britain and Germany were on friendly terms. The SMS Grosser Kurfürst is important as the only non-Royal Naval warship recorded as wrecked in English waters for the period 1860 – 1913. The listing of the associated memorial in Folkestone with its German inscription is a poignant reminder of the loss of nearly 300 crewmen on board. It is right that we continue to remember them.”

SMS Grosser Kurfürst was one of only three Preussen-class ironclad warships authorised under the naval programme of 1867, which had been approved by the Reichstag to strengthen the North German Federal Navy. This happened in the wake of the Second Schleswig War (February to October 1864).

As an ‘ironclad’, the ship was built durinwg an experimental period in naval warfare when they moved from wooden to armoured ships and which also saw the brief return of the ancient ram, used to cause damage to enemy ships, but ended with the dominance of armour-plated warships that had large-calibre heavy guns.

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SCOTTISH SALMON FARMERS TO BE BANNED FROM SHOOTING SEALS

In a move that will be welcomed by conservationists, the implementation of stricter wildlife protection laws will see salmon farmers in Scotland banned from shooting seals, and face more-robust controls on using acoustic devices to scare them away.

The Scottish government has been under pressure for years from animal welfare groups to prevent fish farmers from shooting seals to stop them breaking into salmon pens.

Data shows 31 seals were shot under licence between January and March this year. The Scottish Salmon Producers Organisation (SSPO) has claimed that seal predation and net breaches led to 500,000 lost fish annually.

As well as the ban on shooting seals, Scottish Natural Heritage told ministers there was significant scientific evidence the acoustic deterrent devices (ADDs) used to scare off seals can cause hearing damage in dolphins, porpoise and whales, breaching legislation to protect cetaceans.

Scottish ministers voted through the new measures yesterday, and courts will be able to jail offenders for up to five years, as well as impose unlimited fines. A main driving force behind the measures was a fear the US could ban Scottish salmon imports because harming seals will breach regulations on marine mammal welfare.

LIVING COASTS CLOSES DOWN DUE TO COVID-19 PANDEMIC A Devon zoo where you could dive with penguins has closed its doors for the final time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Living Coasts, which was located right on the seafront in Torquay, has been owned and run by Wild Planet Trust since 2003, but now, the WPT has said that closing other zoos in the same network for lockdown – it also owns Paignton and Newquay Zoo – meant they could not afford to keep Living Coasts open.

Living Coasts hosted more than 6,500 school visitors a year since it opening, and focused on the conservation and protection of many of the marine species it looked after, including penguins, otters and seals.

Living Coasts was also one of the few places in the world where you could dive with penguins, which was an amazing experience.

Thankfully, homes have been found for all of the animals at the zoo, and they will be rehomed at ‘specialist facilities’ which are part of the ‘world-wide network of zoos and aquariums’.

Dr Kirsten Pullen, director of conservation and education said: “We needed to ensure that their new home is the right habitat, the right social grouping and has the right experienced staff working with them.”

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BUY A SCUBAPRO HYDROS PRO BCD – GET A PAIR OF GO SPORT FINS FREE! From the beginning of June, Scubapro is rewarding every diver that purchases an innovative Hydros Pro BCD with a pair of free Go Sport fins. As everyone looks forward to getting back in the water after the COVID-19 pandemic, divers looking at buying some new kit can save money with Scubapro’s summer promotion!

With every purchase of the renowned Hydros Pro BCD (SRP: £645), Scubapro is giving away a pair of Go Sport fins – which have an SRP of £93! Divers can choose their free Go Sport fins in any size or colour. The Men’s Hydros Pro comes as standard in black, and the Ladies version in white. However, with a choice of nine colour kits (SRP: £39.50), divers can create their perfect colour combination!

The free Go Sport fin promo runs from the beginning of June until 31 August 2020 at participating authorised Scubapro dealers, while stocks last.

NB: Offers may not be available in all regions, while stocks available. All authorised Scubapro dealers can be found on: www.scubapro.eu

MISSING DORSET SNORKELLER – BODY FOUND OFF PORTLAND A body was found in the water off Portland, some three weeks after a teenager went missing while snorkelling off the Dorset coastline. Seventeen-year-old Oscar Montgomery, who was from the Birmingham area, disappeared around 5pm on 27 May, while snorkelling off Church Ope Cove on Portland.

After the alarm was raised, there was a massive air and search for Oscar involving helicopters from the Coastguard, Royal Navy and police, as well as RNLI lifeboats and two naval warships. The search had been significantly scaled back, but the local police had still been making enquiries. As we went to press, the body had yet to be formally identified, but it was believed to be Oscar, and his family had been informed.

Ch Insp Neil Wood, of Dorset Police, said: “Our thoughts are with Oscar’s family and loved ones at what must be a tremendously difficult time for them, and we will support them in any way we can. “I would like to thank all those who shared our appeal and everyone involved in the search.”

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NICK LYON AWARDED FELLOWSHIP OF THE EXPLORERS CLUB Acclaimed author, adventurer and explorer Nick Lyon has been awarded Fellowship of The Explorers Club. Nick, who is currently up in the Orkney Islands at the helm of one of the Valkyrie fleet, will be returning to his native Cornwall at the end of the diving season – the lure of traditional Cornish pasties just proved all too great…

He has been diving for nearly 40 years and, among other things, is a BSAC instructor trainer and a Nautical Archaeology Society tutor. His books The Diver’s Tale and The Forgotten Shipwreck are available now, and he is hard at work on a third one.

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OCEAN CONSERVATION TRUST OPENS UNIQUE SEAGRASS LAB AT NATIONAL MARINE AQUARIUM The Ocean Conservation Trust is opening a seagrass lab at the UK’s National Marine Aquarium as part of a new £2.5m habitat restoration project led by Natural England.

The Ocean Conservation Trust laboratory, the first of its kind in the world, was unveiled on 8 June 2020 – World Oceans Day – a day celebrated around the world, in honour of the oceans that connect our blue planet.

The three-year restoration project, the ‘LIFE Recreation ReMEDIES project’, aims to protect vital seagrass meadows located in Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) around the UK’s coasts by providing environmentally friendly moorings, voluntary boating codes, targeted training and habitat restoration.

As part of the project, the Ocean Conservation Trust will be cultivating up to 25,000 plants a year in the new laboratory, to help restore up to four hectares of lost seagrass meadows.

The laboratory will be open for public viewing once the National Marine Aquarium reopens later this summer in accordance with guidance from the UK government on easing lockdown.

Seagrass is one of the ocean’s most-important habitats, providing a nursery ground for many commercial fish stocks and acting as a haven for many marine animals, including rare seahorses, stalked jellyfish, and rare seaweeds.

It also stabilises sediments and prevents coastal erosion, as well as having the capacity to absorb at least as much carbon per hectare as UK forests – making it an important ally in the fight against climate change.

CONTRACTOR SOUGHT FOR POTENTIALLY EXPLOSIVE SS RICHARD MONTGOMERY OPERATION To find out more, why not visit us for Aptitude Day? Experience a Surface Supplied Dive, view the Facilities and meet the Training Team Please visit the website for more details 2019 Course Dates available www.commercialdivertraining.co.uk info@commercialdivertraining.co.uk 01726 817128 | 07900 844141

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A contractor is being sought to carry out the removal of the masts from the SS Richard Montgomery, a cargo vessel which sank in shallow water in the River Thames near Sheerness, Kent, in 1944 with 1,400 tonnes of explosives onboard.

The SS Richard Montgomery – and its potentially explosive cargo – is montiored 24/7 by port authorities, and is subject to a 500-metre exclusion zone.

The masts, which are visible above the water line, are thought to be placing undue stress on the rest of the vessel’s structure, and thus the plan to cut them down in height.

Concerns about the SS Richard Montgomery and its cargo were raised in Westminster last year, when Labour peer Lord Harris of Haringey asked why the government was ‘so relaxed about thousands of such bombs and shells deteriorating together in an unstable environment, unguarded and unprotected’.

However, Conservative front bencher Baroness Barran said that because most of the explosives in the SS Richard Montgomery cargo holds were TNT, it was likely to be inert because ‘the fuses will have degraded over time’. This theory was reinforced by the Maritime and Coastguard Agency, which said the chance of a major explosion were ‘remote’.

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Dr Oliver Firth is a diving doctor with over 22 years of diving experience. He is an Approved Medical Examiner of Divers for the UK HSE and a medical referee for the UK Diving Medical Committee, performing many hundreds of diving medicals a year. As the senior doctor at London Diving Chamber for the last 13 years, he has supervised the treatment of hundreds of cases of decompression illness. He has now set up Hyperdive (www.hyperdive.co.uk) to continue his diving medical work with a global audience. With his accumulated experience, he has seen most things a diver might come across, but remains eager to hear from anyone with a medical conundrum they need a solution to! divingdoctor@scubadivermag.com Q: I have been told to get in touch with you over an issue I am having with my own doctor about an angiogram I had early this year. I had a pain in my chest and both arms and was taken to hospital for three days, had blood tests done, was told that I had a heart attack, then it was angina, then I was told that I was not going to have a treadmill test as I had angina, then I was told again that I was going to have a test.

After all that I signed myself out of hospital as I had had enough of all the mucking around. The surgeon who did the angiogram told me I did not have angina, but I will have to keep on taking aspirin. But my doctor says that I do have angina and for this reason cannot learn to scuba dive. I just no longer know what to do - should I give up the idea of diving, or was the surgeon wrong?

A: Seems to be some confusion in the ranks here, and as you say, plenty of mucking around. I’ll try to clear it up a bit. First of all, the difference between angina and a heart attack. Imagine your heart like any other muscle. Most of us know that the heart pumps blood around the body, but what supplies blood to the heart muscle itself? The answer is the coronary arteries. If they get blocked, the heart muscle quickly runs out of oxygen, and this causes a tight constricting chest pain – angina.

If this state continues for too long, the heart tissue gets damaged and may die off – this is a heart attack.

It’s sometimes difficult to tell where someone is on this spectrum when you see them in A&E, hence the reason you were kept in hospital for all those blood tests. Eventually they should be able to work out whether any heart muscle has died or not. The treadmill

test gives your heart a bit of a workout so the docs can see how much it can do. Bottom line is that you need to be able to be able to do at least nine minutes on the treadmill test, without your heart showing any signs of strain.

If you can do this, then there’s no reason you can’t learn to dive.

Q: We are due to go on a diving holiday, which was booked prior to finding out that I was pregnant.

I have since had an incomplete miscarriage and am due to have an ERPC (Evacuation of Retained Products of Conception). I have been told that I will not be able to swim for four to six weeks after the procedure due to the potential for infection but would it be okay to dive in a drysuit?

A: You poor thing, this must be a very difficult time for you. These situations do arise tragically often, so this goes out to all other women in a similar predicament. Basically, when a miscarriage occurs, remnants of the pregnancy can be left in the womb, and these need to be removed at some point to stop further bleeding or infection developing. The ‘retained products’ are either scraped out with a curette, or sucked out via a plastic tube. This sounds awful, but in reality is usually a five to ten minute procedure and greatly reduces the risks of miscarriage complications.

Normally you’re in and out of hospital in a day, and most women are back to their usual activities within 72 hours.

I guess diving ain’t usual though.

Light bleeding can occur for up to a fortnight afterwards, so sanitary towels are advisable. I think that once the bleeding has ceased, diving in a drysuit would be fine.

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BACK IN THE SADDLE

Don’t live near the coast? Never fear, the inland sites have reopened, so dust off your dive kit and head out to get wet!

BACK ON ‘THE ROCK’

Malta and Gozo are back on the tourist trail after reopening their borders mid-July - we show why you should head to the Med.

Q&A: DR LAURA WALTON

We chat to the diving instructor and clinical psychologist and find out how she combined the two at www.scubapsyche.com

HIGHTAIL IT TO HAWAII

Need some inspiration for a future longhaul trip? Look no further than Michele Westmorland’s liveaboard trip to Hawaii.

TECH: SULAWESI CAVES

Maria Bollerup, Rasmus Dysted and Pete Mesley go on expedition in Sulawesi to find new, unexplored cave systems.

GROUP TEST: MID-PRICE REGS

Bunaken National Marine Park

After a forced hiatus from group tests due to COVID-19, we are back, and rating and reviewing mid-price regulators.

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09/10/2019 09:04

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s surface intervals go, it’s fair to say that lockdown was the longest period of time I’d ever stayed dry. Back in January, few of us could have foreseen what was heading down as the tracks as we made plans for the year ahead. Back then it all looked so rosy, with some genuinely exciting diving giving me much to look forward to. Plans were made, boats were booked and deposits paid - yes indeed, 2020 was going to be a cracker of a year.

And then, Coronavirus happened. Literally overnight, everything stopped - airlines around the globe grounded their fleets, businesses large and small battened down the hatches, and every man, woman and their dog found themselves on lockdown. Sadly, diving didn’t escape either, with dive centres around the globe closing their doors. Even the trusty inland dive sites padlocked their gates and closed shop as the UK Government gave us the order to stay at home, get fat and watch far too many TV boxsets. You really couldn’t make it up – all felt quite surreal in a Tarantinoesque way.

Thankfully, we got through it and things are looking brighter.

At the time of writing, it’s late-May and the lockdown is just starting to ease. As Boris does his best to get us used to the ‘new normal’, divers have finally been given the green light to take their first tentative fin kicks back into the water. In truth, it all feels a bit surreal - something we all took for granted now seems like a forbidden fruit. Can I honestly go diving? Is it too good to be true? Inspired by Dominic Cummings’ spirit of wandering misadventure, the day that I’d waited three months for had finally arrived - I was going diving!

Of course, it was never going to be that straight forward.

Guidelines released by the British Divers Safety Group (BDSG) in mid-May had placed some restrictions on what we could do. Diving off a boat was sadly out of the question, so a shore dive seemed the only option. For me, that gave the perfect excuse to return to one of my favourite shore dives along the South Coast - Chesil Cove. Site of my very first open water dive back when I still had hair and a few less kilos, I’ve always had a soft spot for this beautiful location.

After three months of diving ‘cold turkey’, Jason Brown thinks he has discovered the perfect antidote for the lockdown blues…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON BROWN

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Nestled at the sheltered base of Portland on the southernmost edge of Chesil Beach, Chesil Cove is a wonderful shore dive packed with an abundance of marine diversity in all its many shapes and colours. It can be dived in any state of the tide as the tidal currents that run parallel to the beach don’t really affect Chesil Cove and the large, imposing rock that is Portland shields the site from easterly winds. Arguably the biggest challenge that Chesil poses are the steep pebble banks that must be tackled on your way back up the beach - no mean feat on a hot day in full dive kit!

If you’re going to dive Chesil Cove, there’s no one better to dive it with than ‘Mr Chesil’ himself, Colin Garret. A resident of Weymouth and self-confessed Chesil addict, Colin has spent the last few years documenting the marine life off Chesil through his superb photography and online videos.

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Colin has become a bit of a dab-hand with a camera – this year he was the winner of the ‘British Waters Compact’ category in the prestigious Underwater Photography of the Year competition with his breath-taking shot of a bottlenose dolphin in Portland Harbour. Suffice to say he’s the perfect dive buddy for anyone wanting to get the most out of this popular dive spot.

Days before we hit the water, Colin and I had discussed the changes we’d need to put into place to follow Government health advice. The need to maintain ‘social distancing’ meant that we would have to modify many of the procedures divers take for granted to minimise any form of direct contact. I’d already spent quite some time thinking through ways to mitigate much of this - carrying a side-slung bottle filled with breathable gas, for example, would provide full redundancy should either myself or Colin run out of air. Instead of having to donate gas via an octopus (or, in my case, long hose), I could simply donate the regulator on my stage and then hand off the bottle. This regulator was fully disinfected to allow either one of us to breathe from it without fear of infection.

Normally I’d never consider taking a stage into the water on a shallow shore dive, but these are strange times we live in.

Sadly, some things were beyond our control. Getting air fills was a good case in point – with no dive centres open, we needed to be completely self-reliant. Thankfully, both of us had full cylinders sat gathering dust, so that wasn’t going to be an issue. What could be an issue, however, was the lack of loo facilities – with all pubs and cafes in the area closed to visitors, answering the call of nature could be a problem.

Thankfully, my Otter Atlantic drysuit is fitted with a pee-valve, so relief would need to be held off until I was in the water.

Finally, the day of our dive had arrived and even the journey down to Chesil was strangely therapeutic. The closer I got to the coast, the more I felt a genuine sense of renewal.

Spending so long away from the sea had clearly had a greater effect than I’d realised. The long spell of great weather we’d experienced during most of May really helped too. When I finally arrived at Chesil Cove early in the morning, the conditions just couldn’t have been better. With no wind to speak of, the sea was millpond flat and the sky was a brilliant blue with not a cloud in sight. We really couldn’t have wished for better conditions.

The need to maintain ‘social distancing’ meant that we would have to modify many of the procedures divers take for granted to minimise any form of direct contact 26

CHESIL COVE...

...is a shallow shore dive with an interesting selection of South Coast marine life, as well as an abundance of flora and fauna. Although there have been many shipwrecks in the cove, few significant divable remains exist close to the beach due to its exposure to strong waves!

Many of the beaches along the South Coast had been swamped by visitors but I was pleasantly surprised to see Chesil still relatively quiet in comparison. While the odd day tripper had set down blankets on the pebbled beach, they were few and far between – social distancing was not going to be a problem. Not surprisingly, Colin and I were not the only divers to target Chesil Cove for a much-needed post-lockdown dive. Scanning the beach, I spotted a few divers making the most of the conditions. After ferrying our gear down to a

Prepping for the dive

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Tompot blenny

Shore diving, socially distanced of course

Edible crab

suitably distanced spot on the beach, I took it upon myself to go chat with some of them.

While it’s fair to say not everyone was taking the social distancing thing quite as seriously as others, there were some exceptions. Divers Mark Pepper and Steve Coe from Westland Sub-Aqua Club had travelled down from Yeovil to enjoy Chesil.

I found them assembling their kit and asked them what they were doing differently post-lockdown. “We made a conscious decision to kit up independently and even buddy-check independently. When we’re on the surface, we plan to keep our distance. Normally we’d be diving off the club RIB but there’s a good chance that it won’t get any use this year – there is simply no way to effectively isolate on a RIB. Shore diving is the way to go at the moment,” commented Mark.

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The perfect way to enjoy the sunset

After what felt like an eternity of lockdown, my return to diving was therapeutic on so many different levels - mind, body and soul felt rejuvenated, and I was ready for more

Chesil looking inviting in the evening sun

Common lobster

Later in the day I encountered husband-and-wife diving duo Lisa and Richard Frew from DiveSouth making their way down to the water’s edge. I asked Lisa what changes they’d made to their diving to properly observe government health guidelines.

“As a husband-and-wife buddy team, social distancing for us means avoiding crowded areas, and opting to choose quieter times. We agreed beforehand that if it looked too busy, we would turn around and go home. Limiting to one dive each visit, we not only minimise coming into contact with others, but avoid issues with limited facilities open.

“The kit is less of an issue for us as we live together, but we are experimenting with long hose and short hose procedures ready for when we are teaching again.

We sanitised tank valves before and after filling, as well as masks and regs at the dive site. We also used defog as opposed to good old spit. Plus, we made sure we had a flask of hot soapy water for washing hands and rinsing water. Once back at home, everything was thorough sanitised again.”

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So how did it feel to finally be back in the water? “It was epic! There was hardly anyone on the beach - we felt very excited and lucky to be go diving for the first time in what felt like forever! It was great to just get in and float. Just to be able to escape the madness for a while and be totally in the moment among the cuttlefish, lobster and a sea of floating nudibranchs. We surfaced to see the beautiful sun starting to set over the cove – it was a perfect evening. It’s just a shame we can’t enjoy it with our students and dive buddies just yet.”

The vis may not have been quite as good as I had hoped for and the marine life seemed to be keeping its distance, but I couldn’t help but agree with everything Lisa had said. They say absence makes the heart grow fonder but the experience of simply being back in the water didn’t disappoint. After what felt like an eternity of lockdown, my return to diving was therapeutic on so many different levels - mind, body and soul felt rejuvenated, and I was ready for more. A generous dose of vitamin sea was clearly just what I needed. n

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F

lying into Roatan off the coast of Honduras, the reasoning behind the name of the country becomes clear. Honduras means ‘the depths’ in Spanish, and there is deep blue water everywhere you look.

Roatan and the other Bay Islands of Guanaja and Utila are part of Honduras and less than an hour from the mainland.

Roatan, once the territory of Spanish conquistadors and pirates, sits on the southernmost point of the second largest barrier reef in the world. These extensive reef systems draw in divers from all across the globe, and the islands are bustling with dive activity.

After organizing gear and getting a good night’s sleep on board the Roatan Aggressor, we made our first dive off Roatan’s far western point at a location called Eel Reef. Upon arrival at the site, I was surprised to observe a platform surrounded by several small boats. The Honduran flag was flying above the few people who were clearly preparing for an event. When I asked about what was taking place, I learned it was the Freediving World Championship. Teams and individuals from five continents were on this small island to participate in a sport that pushes the limits of the human body. I cannot imagine what it would be like to freedive to depths over 100m without fins and hold my breath for over four minutes. There is nothing like the

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thought of that to make me feel grateful to have a tank of air on my back and scuba gear at the ready. It made me smile to know that I would be able to take my time to truly soak in the reef scenes and marine life below.

WALLS, WRECKS AND REEFS

Depending on the weather conditions, the Roatan Aggressor’s itinerary includes well-known sites around the island of Roatan, and then crosses to Utila, Cayos Cochinos and an extraordinary seamount just off this small island. Over the two weeks I was aboard the boat, we dodged two big bullets – Hurricanes Harvey and Irma. The weather was still respectable

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Michele Westmorland was captivated by the underwater delights around Roatan, in the Bay Islands of Honduras PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHELE WESTMORLAND

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for us and although we could not cross to Utila, we still had plenty to explore.

Tavianna’s Wall, our first stop, is a place to look at small subjects as well as the bigger reef system and fish life. This variety makes it difficult to choose which lens to put on the camera, but I was lucky – I had more than just the one dive at the wall. I planned to shoot macro on my first experience here because I heard there were some tiny creatures that snaked in and out of the reef structure. It took patience to find them and rest near a tiny little hole in a rock to watch for the male sailfin blenny to appear. It took even more patience to wait for him to come entirely out of his protected space to flare his pectoral fin in a territorial display.

The next dive on Tavianna’s, we left the little creatures and headed for the larger corals, sea fans and marine life that form a winding pattern of structure and colours throughout them. What is actually a school of fish was, in my opinion, a ‘herd’ of blue tang. They moved over the reef, quickly stopping to munch on algae on the coral, then tromping on to the next mound providing the food source for a hungry mass of blue. It is a beautiful scene to watch but must be done hastily as it is challenging to keep up with these reef cleaners.

The signature location in Roatan is Mary’s Place. Divers can remain shallow or explore the cracks that formed when a peninsula broke apart in a powerful earthquake. The cracks are anywhere from three to ten feet in width and are full of coral. With good timing, divers can not only enter and exit the swim-through, but they might find it filled with thousands of silversides. If that doesn’t pan out, maybe a free-swimming moray eel out for a day of hunting will surprise you.

We had more than one dive to look for creatures and the highlight for me was the discovery of a small frogfish who chose a picturesque location to settle in – a purple vase sponge. There he was, perfectly perched with antennae out to lure in a nice dinner morsel.

Half Moon Bay, located on the north side of the island, displayed a variety of interesting fish life – and behaviour.

Angels and eels were present in large numbers but what I wasn’t expecting was to come across a red-lipped batfish. This is a species I have only seen once in the deep waters of Cocos Island off Costa Rica. I had no idea they could be found here in Roatan and in only 20m of water no less.

What was even more humorous than the fish with lipstick was a Nassau grouper, which appeared to like the attention

Silversides swarm inside the wreck superstructure

Frogfish

The spacious external dining area Wall diving

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Divers above a healthy reef

It is a multi-level ship with lots of ladders, a large bridge area and plenty of holds to explore

The Roatan Aggressor

ROATAN AGGRESSOR YACHT SPECS Length: 40 metres Beam: 7 metres Passengers: 18 Staff: 6 1 Master Stateroom with queen-sized bed 8 Deluxe Staterooms

Green moray eel

of divers. He nudged, prodded and came right up to our dive masks as everyone admired the frogfish seemingly trying to tell us ‘Hey! Pay attention to me!’

Since the weather was not co-operating for traveling to Utila, heading south from Roatan to the small island grouping called Cayos Cochinos was a welcomed diversion from Roatan.

It is a peaceful location made up of two tiny islands away from the hubbub of Roatan. The surrounding reefs are in a Marine Protected Area managed by the Honduran Coral Reef Foundation and part of the well-known Meso-American Barrier Reef. No wonder we had the opportunity to experience the reef shark population! Cara A Cara, which is Spanish for

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All guest rooms come with private heads and showers, individually controlled air conditioning, monitor with media player USB/110 v outlet and hair dryer.

There is a generous salon area, an upper sun and bar deck that is well laid out and also is complimented with a hot tub.

The dive deck has ample space for dive equipment, including bench storage, camera table and plenty of dive suit hanging areas conveniently placed.

Fill stations, which includes nitrox, are delivered to individual diver stations. www.aggressor.com

‘face-to-face’, is just that. Divers are face-to-face with many predators coming in close including sharks and grouper.

My personal favourite was a dive site named Toon Town.

Want to guess where the name was derived from? Certainly not from any cartoon characters, but instead from the enormous numbers of tunicate colonies. At first, I did not see much in the way of these purple colonies until I rounded a corner on the reef. The little bunches of them looked like patches of flowers blooming across the reef.

Honduras and the Meso-American Reef is also known for many pirate stories and sunken ships. Divers do not have much chance of seeing remnants of the wooden ships of the

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Caribbean reef shark

The wreck of the Odyssey

Roatan’s wrecks are heavily encrusted with marine growth

past, but there is certainly a fabulous selection of vessels, large and small, that are used today as artificial reefs. I found diving three of the most-known sites on my list of favourite diving experiences on this trip.

El Aguila is the remains of a 70-metre ship that was originally used as a concrete carrier. In 1997 she was sunk as an artificial reef and although now broken up a bit from a hurricane in 1998, she is still a dynamic home to many species from morays and grouper to the smallest of critters. Since we had the chance to make multiple dives, all the divers on our boat came to the surface completely satisfied with the experience. This was especially true for Chris and Patricia. I had a confused look behind my mask when I saw a little sign brought out that said ‘Will You Marry Me?’. Even better was the confused look on the bride-to-be’s face when she saw the sign from Chris and a ring in his hand.

While the other wrecks were dived on several occasions, The Odyssey only gave us one chance. Sitting in 33m, she is a large 100-metre freighter and Roatan’s largest wreck dive. The ship was sunk as an artificial reef in 2002, but already hosts plenty of large predator fish and has good sponge coverage.

It is a multi-level ship with lots of ladders, a large bridge area and plenty of holds to explore. Because of the depth, it does

With good timing, divers can not only enter and exit the swim-through, but they might find it filled with thousands of silversides 34

require a more-experienced diver to investigate the massive wreck. The one dive I made was exciting and had me wishing I could get back to it again. It will just have to wait until another trip to Roatan.

That brings me to the smallest but mightiest of the wrecks in Roatan – Mr. Bud. It is sometimes listed as an old shrimp boat, but many say it was a small cargo vessel at a mere 25 metres in length. It sits in 20m of water while the bridge is only at 15m. It sounded rather boring at the initial dive briefing, but I can tell you that I was never bored the multiple times I explored its small spaces. I discovered anemones on the hull hosting a species of shrimp I had not seen before, then turned to watch sergeant majors make circular patterned egg nests. Toward the end I had a great time in the wheelhouse with thousands upon thousands of silversides inhabiting the interior. What a great time trying to photograph my dive buddy swimming through and being encircled with the massive school of tiny fish.

When we passed the location of the freediving competition on our way back to port, I wondered ‘Who won? What depth?

From what country?’ Those thoughts quickly faded as I looked back on the magical creatures and underwater habitats my air supply had allowed me to see in the water around Roatan. Sometimes being slow and steady really does feel like winning. n

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A SAFE RESTART A DECALOGUE FOR RUSTY DIVERS

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fter a long winter - and an even longer coronavirus lockdown - nitrogen abstinence reached its peak. During this very special spring, only divers with private pools or private access to sea/lakes/puddles were able to practice diving. If you don’t belong to this lucky category, you need some advice before taking nitrogen again in order to avoid overdosing and other hiccups.

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Dive suits, both wet and dry, tend to shrink during periods of inactivity. (Ed. note - check your clothing as well. Mine seems to be shrinking). You can try to lose a size by walking to the dive site with bags on your shoulders, but only if you live at least 300km from destination.

Alternatively, you can rent a well-sanitised dive suit at your local dive shop, or purchase a new one. You’ll find that offshore factories continue to make mistakes on European sizes. Be cautious when predicting when you’ll get back into shape - you could spend years renting.

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If dive suits shrink, batteries tend to run out. You surely noticed this when your scooter didn›t start back up in April. Keep in mind that, unlike the scooter›s batteries, which charge while moving, the batteries in your dive computer will NOT recharge during the descent. Get new ones where you›re sure you can find them. Another shameless tendency of batteries: in addition to discharging during the dive, there are many different types, and you may not find the ones you need in the shop right near the dive site.

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The waterproof briefcase with your beloved save-a-dive kit is probably where you’ve last stored it. Did you do any housework in the meantime? No, I didn’t think so.

Then try looking behind the paint buckets: if you live with a non-diver, it’s likely to have been mistaken for a drill case and not a crochet set. Found it?

You’ll get your precious collection of O-rings and Allens, your half-a-kilo DIN adapter and the hard-to-find mignon tube of silicone. Is there a strap missing? It broke on the dinghy last September, remember? Now check if that spare mask is still in your BCD pocket.

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Unpleasant creatures tend to gravitate to damp, uncrowded cavities. Dive suits and second stages offer maximum comfort for spiders, scorpions and cockroaches. The story of the divemaster who got a cockroach out of his bronchi is NOT an urban legend. So, check the mouthpiece before you use it and turn the dive suit inside out.

Avoid transporting pests to places where they don’t belong.

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It doesn›t look bad if you start over with a simple dive.

Macho divers claim that there’s no fun in easy dives.

However, if you don’t want to become the attraction, avoid starting back in with a challenging dive. If possible, make an easy dive from the shore. Rest assured that the ones who are pushing you into a complicated dive will be the first to complain about your less-from-perfect buoyancy, trim and consumption rate. A refresh is never dishonourable.

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Rest assured that the ones who are pushing you into a complicated dive will be the first to complain about your less-from-perfect buoyancy

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You already know this year’s novelty, it’s called COVID-19. In the name of social distancing, it would be good if you fill in a questionnaire about your (hopefully very distant) relationship with the virus, before going diving.

Remember to maintain a physical distance of at least one metre (two metres are recommended in some countries) and wear a protective mask while at the dive centre, outside and on the boat or dinghy. Now breathe easy: underwater you can finally forget about it!

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Three dives a day are probably too many, even for those who have already resumed diving.

Make a maximum of two, and you will be at peace with your residual nitrogen, your ears, and your energy. Unlike computer batteries, human energy reserves increase with practice. For mysterious reasons, physical performance and concentration tend to drop with stress and fatigue, even when diving. And remember, your proper social distancing from DCI is 5m depth, for at least three minutes!

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The buddy check is not an outdated habit, but a rule which is too often ignored. Due to the new C-19 prevention rules, of course, you are not allowed to touch your buddy›s equipment, but you can ask them to do it on their own under your watchful eye, while instructing them to check their BCD, weight belt, regulators, inflators, computer, gas reserve and valves (the valve should ALWAYS be accessible to the diver). Ask your buddy to do the same with you, and you›ll have brought back a safe habit.

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Your DAN membership doesn’t last for life: it must be renewed every year!

Now you can finally relax: your diving license has no expiration date! It’s just your diving skills that need a refresh, and what better way to do that than go diving!

PS: Ah, you haven’t replaced that mask strap? According to Murphy, the tendency of a specific part to break is inversely proportional to the availability of spares for that part.

Remember to call George: your spare mask is still in his BCD pocket! n

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s I write this, UK dive charter boats are still unable to operate due to current regulations, but that doesn’t mean you can’t go diving. Shore diving is an attractive alternative, but where are the best places to go and what, if any, are the drawbacks?

The South West coast offers many exciting and adventurous shore-diving sites. The problems are usually associated with ease of access, sea entries and exits, and car parking. It also makes life easier if there are public conveniences close by, a local dive centre for air fills and any last-minute equipment needs, as well as somewhere to sit down and eat, all in keeping with social distancing guidelines, of course.

When shore diving, basic common sense rules prevail. If you are not sure about anything, ask another diver on site, or pop into the local dive centre to get more information on entries and exits, tidal flows and safety related issues. The internet is obviously a good starting point when planning a trip. Most of the popular sites have daily social media feeds describing weather conditions, underwater visibility, marine life encounters, etc. Better still, join one of the local dive clubs.

Swanage Pier in Dorset is probably the most-popular shore-diving site in the South West. The pier should have re-opened for divers on Saturday 4 July. It’s a site that ticks all the boxes. Facilities include car parking, Divers Down dive centre, 1859 pier café and toilets. Swanage town centre is also within walking distance. Entries can either be via the steps or giant stride from the end of the pier. Maximum depth is approximately 6m at high tide. This site caters for nearly every need, including training courses, underwater photography, night dives or just easy pleasure dives. There is also Swanage old pier as an alternative site. Marine life sightings include velvet swimming crabs, edible crabs, spider crabs, black-faced blennies, lobster, wrasse, pollock, sea bass, cuttlefish and more. The pier also acts as a staging post for Swanage Boat Charters and Divers Down running out to the deeper offshore favourites.

On the far side of Swanage Bay (Ballard end) where Shore Road meets Ulwell Road, next to the Waterfront café, there is another shore-diving site which is not so widely known. Car parking is on the road and entry via the sand/shingle beach. Underwater scenery is made up of a rocky reef at a max depth of around 8m-9m inhabited by mostly the same marine life as the pier.

Arguably Chesil Beach rates a close second in the popularity stakes. There are some top-notch shore-diving sites stretching along the whole 29km length of Chesil Beach from Chiswell Cove on Portland past Abbotsbury all the way to West Bay. The infamous beach entry up and down Chesil Bank in full kit can make even the hardiest diver tremble. The pebbles give way underfoot making the experience very similar to walking up an escalator moving downwards! The better sites seem to be located at the Portland end. Facilities at Chiswell Cove include free limited car parking, toilets and on-site Quiddles café. Underwater Explorers and Dive Beyond dive centres are located close by for air fills, equipment needs and local knowledge.

All but a whiff of predominant south westerlies will make entries and exits difficult. Conditions can easily deteriorate during a dive, so be very careful. If it looks dubious don’t risk it. Keep your regulator in place at all times and crawl out

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on all fours if necessary! The seabed varies from sand and shingle to massive car-sized boulders. Kelp is prevalent during the summer months. Maximum depth at Chiswell is around 16m. Usual marine life encounters include dogfish, cuttlefish, john dory, pollock, lobster, velvet swimming crabs, conger eels as well as the more-exotic angler fish, thornback rays, crayfish, squid and octopus.

Travelling along the A354 Causeway Road past Ferry Bridge, there is a large pay and display car park next to the Fine Foundation Chesil Beach Centre. On-site facilities include a café and toilets. Divers get kitted up in the car park before experiencing a five to ten minute trudge up and over Mount Chesil to the entry point for the Royal Adelaide and Nor wreck sites, maximum depth 16m. The shelving pebble seabed is littered with large metal plates, winches, boilers and propellers. The most-prominent section of the Adelaide, the starboard bow, can be difficult to find but it’s worth persevering. Marine life sightings include shoals of sea bass, pouting and pollock, ballan wrasse, lobster, edible crabs, john dory, cuttlefish and congers.

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As divers emerge from their forced hiatus due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Stuart Philpott provides an overview of some of the best shore-diving sites on the South Coast to whet the appetite PHOTOGRAPHS BY STUART PHILPOTT

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Common lobster

Barrel jellyfish

This site is more susceptible to strong currents, waves and surge, which will undoubtedly effect entries and exits.

The far end of the car park is a good spot to kit up for the World War Two landing craft. Sitting two to three metres proud of the seabed at a depth of around 12m, this little wreck is often overlooked by divers. There are one or two small overhead sections as well as a huge winch and twin engines on display. Same marine life encounters as the Adelaide. At the end of August, it’s possible to encounter grey triggerfish at both of these wreck sites, although numbers have dwindled due to too many anglers.

If the beach sites are blown out, there are a number of alternatives available, although on-site facilities aren’t so good. It’s possible to dive underneath the Ferry Bridge. Turn off the A354 onto Ferryman’s Way and there should be an area for parking. Access to the water’s edge is under the bridge itself, but watch out for the slippery concrete blocks. The sand and shingle seabed is littered with colourful anemones and small bottom dwelling marine life, maximum depth 3m-4m.

Be aware that the narrow channel can be subjected to strong tidal streams.

Newton’s Cove in Weymouth is another option. Use the Brewers Quay car park. This is quite a shallow dive site, max depth 3m-4m. Bottom composition is mainly sand and shingle, but a few hundred metres out from the shoreline there is a rocky reef teeming with marine life. The beach at Castletown can also be used for entries/exits to the Mulberry harbours, but they are classed as Grade II Listed structures and certain restrictions apply. Seek advice from local dive centres before attempting this shore dive.

Moving around the coast to Bournemouth, the old Victorian pier would make a great shore-diving site but sadly it is out of bounds unless divers have special permission from local authorities. Close by there are a number of disused sewage outlet pipes that actually make interesting dive sites. Poole Diving dive centre, based at New Quay Road near Poole lifting bridge, regularly dive at the outlet pipe located next to Shore Road, Sandbanks. There is an on-site car park, toilet facilities and Jazz café, but during the summer months this popular beach area can get very busy. Resident Course Director Ian Craddock has adopted the dive site under the latest PADI Project Aware initiative – Dive Against Debris -

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Divers will be back out on dive boats soon

which encourages divers to get involved with maintaining and protecting a local site, clearing away rubbish, ghost nets, etc.

The pipe is located about 100 metres from shore. It’s roughly 500 metres long by three metres wide and fringed by rocks.

Marine life sightings include hundreds of spider crabs, edible crabs, wrasse, lobster, congers, dogfish, plaice and juvenile fish. Maximum depth is approximately 4m-5m. Ian said: “I often spend a good 1.5 hours exploring the site”.

Kimmeridge Bay is the ideal place for barbeques, has onsite parking and toilets. It’s also just a short walk down to the water’s edge. There are two slipways. The slipway furthest away from the road is best for entries. This is a great scenic dive, max depth 3m-4m. Contact the Fine Foundation Wild Sea Centre located on site, where they can tell you all about the local marine life and the best areas to explore. Chapman’s Pool would also be on the list if it wasn’t for ease of access.

The steep path leading down to the seashore is far too extreme for the average diver.

Lulworth Cove doubles up as a popular tourist attraction

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Shore divers return to land

Bottom composition is mainly sand and shingle, but a few hundred metres out from the shoreline there is a rocky reef teeming with marine life and a shore-diving site. There is a large car park, toilets and Further along the coast, Brixham in Devon is another popular a selection of cafes. The single-track road leading down to shore dive site. Brixham Dive Shack, owned by Baz Drysdale, the beach front is usually closed off during the day, but open supplies equipment and gas needs. There is a nearby car park, early mornings. Divers drop kit off at the beach and then toilet and the Breakwater Bistro caters for food. Divers usually park up. The toilets are next to the car park, so do any loo kit up by the breakwater wall and enter via the beach. There are stops beforehand as it’s at least a 200 metre walk back to three different routes. Either left along the wall, where scenery the beach! The best areas to explore are near the entrance mainly consists of giant boulders covered in kelp, straight out to the horseshoe-shaped bay. The east side is mainly sand into the bay or right to Ladybird Cove, which is a seagrass area and shingle seabed with a good chance of finding scallops. perfect for nudibranchs and the odd seahorse.

The west side, predominantly made of rock, is probably more Final stop is Porthkerris Dive Centre located in deepest interesting. There can be strong currents outside the cove. darkest Cornwall, who offer everything a diver could possibly Studland Bay near Swanage rounds off the area. There need on one site (except maybe beer?), from accommodation is a National Trust Car park next to the Bankes Arms Inn. A and camping to dive shop and beach side café. On the diving public toilet is also at the end of the road. Divers can either side they offer excellent shore diving, charter boats, basking kit up in the car park or carry equipment down to the beach. sharks, blue sharks, thornback rays and probably more. The This seagrass area is well known for spiny seahorse sightings shore dive site is currently open but other facilities are closed. but they are a protected species and divers are not allowed to specifically go looking for seahorses.

Maximum depth is around 6m. Beware of boats Thornback ray passing overhead and anchoring. The Bankes Arms makes the perfect après dive spot. There is a large beer garden overlooking the sea, with Old Harry Rocks as a backdrop.

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Tompot blenny

Common lobster on the move

Charter boats should soon be back in operation

Grey triggerfish

Check for updates. There is plenty of on-site parking down by the beach. Divers just kit up and walk straight into the sea.

The cove is pretty much diveable in most wind directions.

Underwater topography includes big boulders, walls and gullies swathed in anemones and kelp, all at a respectable max depth of 20m. Marine life sightings include all the regulars as well as red gurnard, john dory and possibly a passing basking shark. Currents on the outward reef can be strong at times.

That completes my South West shore-diving line-up. I haven’t mentioned all of the sites, the idea was to give a general overview. I have also included some of lesser-known sites that are not usually on the radar. Please respect the

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surrounding countryside and take away any rubbish with you.

It would be a shame to see the sites spoilt by carelessness.

I’m not sure that all of the car parks are open yet, same goes for the toilets and cafes, but this information is being updated on a regular basis. When parking on the road and kitting up near residential areas, don’t upset the natives!

With gyms and leisure centres all being tied up by the same restrictions, fitness levels may well be suffering - I know mine is! Shore diving requires more walking and carrying heavy kit, so make sure you pace yourself and watch out for any back strains and pains.

Dehydration can also be an issue over the summer months, so try and plan your dives during the cooler morning periods. I hope you enjoy shore diving! n

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Q&A: DAVID ALLEN

David Allen specialises in stunning black-and-white drawings of marine life, from tiny porcelain crabs to mighty great white sharks. Scuba Diver chatted to David about how he got started, what drives his creative passions, and why he chose to stick with black-and-white as a medium IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID ALLEN

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Q: You spent many years working as a dive professional in the UK and abroad, how did those experiences set you up as a marine-orientated artist?

A: I guess all that time has given me a head full of memories and experiences. I have been lucky enough in my diving career to see so many amazing things. All of that is still there for me to draw inspiration from. The majority of my artwork so far has come from the Maldives and other tropical seas, but I spent a fair few years diving the UK and there are great wreck dives and marine interactions that I would love to produce on paper. Also I think without the photography and video, I probably wouldn’t have started drawing again. When you are filming and taking photos, you are thinking in artistic terms - composition, lighting, scale, they are all going through your mind, whether you realise it or not. So the combination laid the groundwork for a step into another medium.

Q: You were an avid underwater photographer. What made you move into the art world, or have you always had an artistic flair?

A: As a liveaboard dive guide, I was seldom in the water without a camera, filming the safaris was part of the job and as an artistic medium I loved it. When I finished in the industry I missed the camera work a lot and needed to do something both artistic and to keep myself in touch with the underwater world. In some ways it was a small step as I studied fine art for my degree, but I also hadn’t touched a pencil in 20 years. The catalyst to doing it was my wife. I had promised her a drawing of a manta when we first met and after a fair bit of cajoling, she got her wish - ten years late!

Q: You currently work exclusively in black and white, using white pencils on various black papers. Why did you

Working white on black was a little trickier to get the hang of, as essentially it’s the opposite of morerecognised drawing techniques 45

choose this medium to create your artwork?

A: I guess it’s unusual as the marine world can be so colourful.

There are not that many artists specialising in marine life and those that do, produce some amazing colourful work. I wanted to do something different. I’m a big fan of black and white photography for the simplicity and timeless look it can create.

I wanted to bring those same elements to my view of marine life. I am also interested in showing individual animals, isolating them from background distraction to highlight their characters.

Pencil drawing had always been a favourite in the past, so it felt like an easier step having not produced any art for so long. Working white on black was a little trickier to get the hang of, as essentially it’s the opposite of more-recognised drawing techniques. You are creating highlights instead of shadows.

Q: The black-and-white is certainly visually arresting – when I first saw them I thought they were black-andwhite photographs! Do a lot of people mistake your artwork for photographic prints?

A: They certainly do. The GO Diving 2020 show in Coventry was the first time I have publically displayed my work and throughout the weekend, people would comment how they liked my photos, so I was constantly explaining they were drawings. It was a nice to see the surprise on their faces. It really made people take a better look.

Q: Unlike a photograph, your art is painstakingly created by hand. How long does it take you to create a single piece of art?

A: They do vary, but somewhere between 30 and 50 hours. The porcelain crab was the longest, at least 50 hours, probably more, but to be honest I don’t really count.

Black paper is very unforgiving if you make a mistake, so I

DAVID ALLEN

To see more of David’s amazing work, or to purchase your own prints, check out his website: www.davidaallen.co.uk

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start very slowly. Once I have the image very lightly drawn out, it’s a process of building up layers to achieve the right result.

The more detail and the larger areas of highlight, the longer it takes. Knowing when to stop is also tricky, so close to the end I tend to put a drawing away and come back to it several days later for a fresh look. I might do that several times until I convince myself it’s finished.

Q: Your prints are a good size, which really shows off the workmanship of your artwork. How large are the originals that you create?

A: The originals are pretty close to the largest print size I do, so somewhere around A1 paper size, or 24 x 33 inches in old money. Any smaller and its hard to capture the detail I’m looking for. The maximum size I can work to is really only limited by the paper I can buy. At the moment I work with a paper called Fabriano black, which is great, it’s the deepest black I have found and can take a lot of layers of pencil. So far I haven’t found it any larger than A1 size, but if I could I probably would try drawing on a bigger scale.

Q: What is your most-memorable diving experience?

A: Oh crikey! There are so many to choose from, Darwin Arch in the Galapagos, seals at the Farne Islands, the Thistlegorm without another diver. But there’s one that still gives me goose bumps - Hani Faru lagoon in the Maldives, August 2010!

For several weeks that year it was the most-insane experience. At its peak there were over 300 mantas feeding on

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the thick plankton soup trapped in the lagoon by the current and the tide. The sheer mass of animals in this small lagoon, including at one point five whalesharks, was intimidating enough for some of our guests to get out of the water. I particularly remember an afternoon dive where several guests and myself were being pushed backwards across the sand by the current the mantas were producing. It was a privilege to witness such an amazing spectacle.

Q: On the flipside, what is your worst diving memory?

A: I think anyone who has dived for long enough or worked in diving will have had some bad experiences - in general, I’ve been fortunate. What often sticks in the memory is poor diving behaviour. Some things are understandable due to a lack of experience or poor training. But on one beautiful site, I particularly remember seeing some large porites coral heads, which divers had carved their names into! I couldn’t for the life of me understand why anyone who has spent the time and effort learning to dive would do something like that.

Thankfully, I haven’t seen the same thing again.

Q: What does the future hold for David Allen?

A: Certainly more drawing, there are many more subjects on my mind. I’m also interested in exploring other media, so possibly sculpture and heaven forbid maybe even colour.

On the diving front I’m looking forward to a Socorro Islands trip early next year, which I’m sure will give me plenty of inspiration for artwork. Bring on the giant mantas! n

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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY

THAT’S A MORAY

Our resident photo pro Mario Vitalini continues his series looking at specific photo-friendly critters, this time focusing on the humble moray eel PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARIO VITALINI

S

ome of us might not be able to go diving at the moment, however we can use this ‘dry’ time that has been forced upon us to look at a great subject that can be sometimes overlooked. Plan what to do when we next encounter them, or even revisit old images and re-edit them with a different perspective.

I look at a moray sticking its face out of a hole on the reef and the image of a witch always comes to mind. With their green skin and a big nose, morays have beady little eyes, long faces and generally look a bit miserable. They are not the prettiest creatures we encounter, but without a doubt, they do have a lot of personality. These are super subjects for photographers. Here are my tips and tricks to get the best shot of a moray on your next dive.

Ribbon eels can be hard to photograph as they live in messy areas with loads of rubble. A shallow depth of field will help with this problem

THE CHALLENGE

Morays come in different sizes and colours. Species like the pretty coloured ribbon eel are constantly moving, others are easier to spot at night when they patrol the reef in search of an easy prey. But for the most part, the vast majority of morays stay in their holes or around the same area day after day, poking only their face out. This can make them simple to locate and shoot.

For spins, use a very slow shutter speed (around 1/10 of a second), pull your strobes back and use inward lighting. This will light only the face of the moray freezing the movement while the rest of the photo gets the spinning effect

Best of Bunaken

A relatively stationary subject is a gift to us underwater snappers. Morays have a tendency to pull back into their holes if you get too close, especially when using a wide-angle lens.

Getting close enough to fill the frame can be challenging.

The next problem to solve, is how to get a good separation between the background and the subject. This is essential because most of the time you find morays hiding in areas of the reef that are not very photogenic.

Finally, remember, a lot of morays are dark coloured. They suck in light, especially juvenile ribbon eels and older giant morays. You may have to be more creative with the lighting (snooting or cross lighting) to sculpt texture and shadows. Eye contact becomes even more important.

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TIPS FOR SUCCESS

Giant morays are some of the most commonly encountered morays and probably the most photographed. They can grow up to over two metres and can look very grumpy. This just adds to their character. That’s the personality you are trying to convey in your image. When shooting them, try to get below the moray and if possible, try to get them against some blue background and not the reef (unless it is colourful). This will help strengthen the image. Occasionally you can find two or more morays together. Even better!

Old individuals have a very textured face, cross lighting or a black and white with strong contrast treatment in post-production can enhance this wizened characteristic.

If you are shooting with a wide-angle, try to A white eyed moray include divers in your shot, this will give a sense of in his hiding place scale and add depth to your picture.

If the area of reef where you see the moray is not particularly interesting, try to fill the frame George is a famous with the face and point your strobes toward yourself (inward moray at The Barge, lighting). This will minimise the amount of light that reaches in the Northern Red Sea. He’s been the background. Using a snoot to channel the light into the living in the area subject’s face is another option. This way of lighting can be for more than 20 Morays at the barge

years and has a face only a mother could love. None the less, he’s a brilliant subject

trickier so be patient and take lots of pics, repositioning your strobes as you go to refine the effect.

Peppered morays are very cute and one of my favourite morays to photograph. They are a bit more mobile than their giant cousins, but I find them quite co-operative for the most part. I love the effect of back and top strobe lighting with their white, almost-translucent skins. Using a fast shutter speed will help you get a very dark or even black background, making the moray really pop.

Ribbon eels, as I mentioned early, move their head constantly, and nearly always have their body buried in the sand or rubble. These have to be one of the hardest morays to make work for you. Try to shoot from a safe distance and get very low on the ground to avoid getting the sand and rubble on your picture. Give yourself some time so the eel gets

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For nearly 30 years, Mario has sailed the globe and dived the seas, working as a PADI instructor and dive guide. Today, he shares his passion for underwater photography.

His students love his real-world expertise and patient approach. He has an extensive working knowledge of most underwater camera systems, having spent several years at the UK’s largest photo retailer. Mario’s images have won several awards and he has featured not once, but twice, among the top categories at the prestigious Underwater Photographer of the Year, including Most Promising British Underwater Photographer in 2015.

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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY used to you. I have found that inward lighting or snoots work very well with these little guys. By using a wide aperture and a shallow depth of field, you can blur the background. This will help to hide the messy reef.

A yellow edged moray looking into the camera

LOOK OUT FOR…

Often you will see cleaning wrasses getting to work inside the moray’s mouth or around their faces. This is always a very interesting behavioural opportunity.

WHY NOT TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT?

When you find a subject that does co-operate, I like to try different techniques. I have found that with giant morays, swirls can yield very fun pictures. For this, you should use a very slow shutter speed (around 1/10 of a second), pull your strobes back and use inward lighting. This will light only the face of the moray, freezing the movement while the rest of the photo gets the spinning effect.

A snoot gives this peppered moray the impression of glowing in the dark

WORD OF ADVICE

Morays are generally speaking gentle creatures. They do look mean and aggressive as they open and close their mouth, but that is only them breathing. There are however some species such as the masked moray that are very territorial and won’t hesitate to bite your hand if you get too close to their burrow.

I experienced this behaviour first hand in the Maldives.

Thankfully these guys are not big and even if they do land a bite, the effects are nothing more than a small cut.

Big or small, morays are very common creatures and will always be a great addition to your portfolio. Next time you are swimming along the ref and spot one of these guys, give it a chance. You could finish the dive with a cracking shot in the bag. n

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In a time of social distancing and people seeking their own space and nature, this may be the best country in the world to live in. Iceland has also been one of the most-successful nations in the world for tackling the coronavirus

Weekend As the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown and travel restrictions start to ease, Byron Conroy extols the virtues of embarking on a long weekend of diving and adventure in Iceland PHOTOGRAPHS BY BYRON CONROY 52

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ver the last ten years or so, I have travelled the world far and wide, going to some of the world’s best diving locations and also travelling for work, often moving between continents.

Some years I would take 50 flights, but with the recent COVID-19 pandemic that has swept the globe, travel has never been so difficult in my lifetime. Dream destinations have become harder and harder to get to, if possible at all.

We are finally seeing a lifting of restrictions and now people are looking to travel - nobody more so than me.

However, for the last five years, I have called the small Scandinavian nation of Iceland my home. With its low population of just 365,000 inhabitants and over 100,000 sq km of land, it has one of the lowest population densities of any developed countries.

In a time of social distancing and people seeking their own space and nature, this may be the best country in the world to live in. Iceland has also been one of the most-successful nations in the world for tackling the coronavirus, the island has completed more tests per capita than any other country, developed its own tracking App and is now antibody testing all previous positive results. The data captured in Iceland has been used by many other countries to help formulate their own strategies.

As a result of this great reaction by the government, the island is now pretty much corona-free, and has now decided to open up its borders for international

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travel again. The border to Europe was officially opened up on 15 June and from America was opened on 1 July. For anyone looking for a remote, exciting and socially distanced long dive and adventure weekend, this may just become the best country in the world to travel to this summer.

I have been running dive expeditions all over Iceland for five years, combining the very best diving with sightseeing to create action-packed trips for those with an adventurous spirit. At this time of year, we are lucky enough to have 24-hour daylight, so for those searching for adventure, it’s paradise. My company Magmadive (www.magmadive.is) is all about private, customised packages to suit our clients’ needs.

So here’s a run down of how to plan the best long weekend dive trip to Iceland.

So on arrival to Iceland, it’s best to use the transfer to Reykjavik from the airport. This takes you on a beautiful drive through the lava fields surrounding Reykjavik, and on the way from the airport to the city you can start your day in the most-relaxing way, at the Blue Lagoon Spa. Famous across the world, it’s amazing to relax in the silky geothermal water and kick back with a local Icelandic beer served ice cold while you are bathing in the 38 degree C water.

Once you get to the city and to downtown Reykjavik, you will find it to be a charming city. Lots of interesting architecture, colourful houses and a very interesting food and drink scene. Local restaurants serve food for all budgets and tastes, but you should enjoy the local dishes - lamb and lobster are some of the best products form Iceland.

Day two is where the adventure begins, and the diving in Iceland is unique. There are sites like nowhere else in the world. On this day we aim to dive two sites, Lake Kleifarvatn first. This is a geothermal lake, situated in a volcanic crater.

The scenery is amazing, driving through a lava field to arrive, then having to cross the black volcanic sand beaches before arriving on the far side of the lake. There will be nobody for miles around, a picturesque setting, and it’s entirely your own to enjoy. The dive itself is pretty special.

After following the guide along the bottom of the lake, you gradually start to see bubbles appearing in small trickles from the sandy bottom. It’s at this point the guests always get excited, but the guide knows what’s about to come.

As you come into the main area, the first thing that gets your attention is the noise in the distance, then it comes into view. The bottom of the lake is dancing and millions of bubbles of sulphur dioxide gas streams from the ground. As you dive into the area you are also hit by the smell of the gas.

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COMPUTERS • O2 CELLS • GAS ANALYSERS CABLES & CONNECTORS • REBREATHER PARTS PATHFINDER STROBES • SENSORS TOOLS • SOLENOIDS The Silfra fissure

Now there’s a sign you don’t see anywhere else...

You can feel the lake vibrating your body and can put your hand down towards the ground and feel the heat coming from the bottom. After a short swim back to the shore, it’s time for some hot chocolate and biscuits before heading to the next stop. Bajangja is a fissure located on the land but close to the ocean, so it’s tidal, with the ocean coming in from underneath. The fissure used to be used as a holding pen for cod in order to keep them fresh, but this has now been abandoned, leaving a pretty interesting dive site.

Iceland is stunning above water as well

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It’s a small and narrow crack around 100 metres long, and 20m in depth. About two years ago, a movie was filmed there and a wreck was sunk, the Ramona. Now the wreck is suspended in the middle of the fissure, giving the illusion of a ghost ship.

After checking out the wreck for some time, it’s time to head to the far end of the fissure where it gets deeper and darker.

After heading through the halocline caused by the tide changes, some bones emerge from the darkness. Your guide will light these up for you. They are the skeleton of a whale, you can see the vertebrae and the ribs leaning up against the side of the fissure. A very spooky and surreal experience.

For the rest of the afternoon, it’s some sightseeing on the Reykjanes peninsula, checking out the lava tunnels formed thousands of years ago when the volcanoes erupted. We will head to a lava tunnel, where your guide will teach you about the geology and history of Iceland.

You are then dropped off in Reykjavik that evening for dinner, before being picked again later in the evening for a very unique dive. Silfra fissure is the most-famous dive in Iceland, ad is often voted in the world’s top 10 dive sites. It’s a fissure, or crack, in the Earth’s surface, located in-between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The glacier melt water that flows into it from Llangjokull glacier is filtered through the volcanic fields for 30 years before arriving at the mouth of the fissure. The slow filtration of glacial water gives it some pretty interesting features for diving. The first is the temperature, Silfra is cold, no two ways about it.

Water temperature ranges from 2 to 4 degrees C depending on the time of year.

But the real thing is the visibility - it’s usually at least 100 metres. There is no point in Silfra where you can’t see the other end, even when it’s 100 metres away. It’s hard to describe how clear it is. I have dived lots of interesting places, such as the cenotes in Mexico, but this visibility is on a whole new level.

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www.narkedat90.com And what better time to dive the fissure than the middle of the night, under the midnight sun - a truly unique experience.

There are not many places on Earth where we get the midnight sun, and certainly not where you can dive in crystalclear mineral water with 100 metre visibility. I have dived Silfra many times and taken hundreds of people there. We’ve had people who have researched Silfra for years and know all about it, but yet when they actually see it for themselves, they are speechless. I have also worked as an underwater photographer for some time, and people always ask me about the Silfra photographs – ‘that’s not real, you used Photoshop’, etc. But then they see it for themselves, and realise that’s just how it looks.

In underwatwer photography we say, when you think you are close enough, get closer. Silfra is the only place I’ve ever photographed where you need to get further away! It’s like shooting through air, and the only place I know where you can take a landscape photo underwater. I’ve even taken 12-shot panorama photos there and stitched them together.

After seeing the amazing site yourselves, it will be a dive to remember forever. Coming out of the water just after midnight, with the sun still in the sky and the whole of the area completely to yourself, is an unforgettable experience.

After heading back to Reykjavik late at night, it’s time for a later start the next day. We will be heading to the ocean for our morning dive. For those from the UK, they will be well aware of Iceland’s ocean diving characteristics. Visibility can be up to ten metres, but usually six to eight. However, it’s the marine life we are here for. We will dive in Gardur on the harbour wall. The dive site is up to 12m deep, but has a wealth of different marine life. Shoals of mackerel, cod and pollock are often seen. But the macro is where the site really shines - nudibranchs, crabs, isopods, lumpsuckers and butterfish are all on the dive site, making beautiful subjects.

Snowmobiling to an ice cave

Butterfish

The northern lights

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COMPUTERS • O2 CELLS • GAS ANALYSERS CABLES & CONNECTORS • REBREATHER PARTS PATHFINDER STROBES • SENSORS TOOLS • SOLENOIDS The ice cave at the Llangjokull glacier

Wolf fish

The star of the show is the resident wolf fish, one of the meanest-looking fish in the ocean. Bright blue in colour, it has large and powerful teeth that it uses to break open shellfish.

After a salty dive we head back inland for the final dive of the trip. Where better to wash off your drysuit than in the purest water on Earth, Silfra fissure. An afternoon dive in the summer offers the best lighting of the whole year. From around 3pm, the sun is low in the sky, and perfectly in line with the famous Silfra Cathedral. This offers an incredible backlight to the deepest part, making for some incredible photography options. Your guide will also take some shots of you as you swim through the Cathedral in 100-metre visibility.

There is really no better way to end a dive trip to Iceland.

After the dive and scenic drive back to Reykjavik, the Magmadive team will take care of any equipment you may have bought with you and ensure it’s dried overnight. We have all equipment needed here for any dive trip, but many of our guests prefer to bring their own drysuit. We will arrange for the equipment to be dropped off at your accommodation the following morning.

Super Jeep

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The world’s largest ice tunnel, it is incredible to walk hundreds of metres down into the glacier itself For your final day, a dry day, there are many options in Iceland.

The famous Golden Circle is the most touristy of all days out, focusing mainly on the Geysir, Gulfoss and the Thingvellir National Parks. While famous for good reason, this is also the most touristy activity you can do. There are many other options. The south coast of Iceland is a little more dramatic, offering huge waterfalls and black sand beaches, but this is still very much a sightseeing day out.

For this looking for more action, going snowmobiling to the ice cave at the Llangjokull glacier is a great option. Using a heavily modified Super Jeep to get to the glacier, you’ll then make a snowmobile journey over the top of the glacier before reaching the ice tunnel. The world’s largest ice tunnel, it is incredible to walk hundreds of metres down into the glacier itself. Your guide from the diving will also be able to help you with picking out any activities for your final non-diving day and will have tried them all to give you a personal opinion.

As you head back to the airport after a weekend of relaxation, action and some of the world’s most-unique diving, Iceland will have left a special mark on you.

Iceland is the ultimate place for social distancing this summer. I feel blessed to call it my home, and believe it’s one of the best countries on Earth to live at the present time. n

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Wild waters of

PAPUA NEW GUINEA Joanna Smart makes the trek to Papua New Guinea, and discovers this wild, untamed country is simply awe-inspiring both topside and underwater PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOANNA SMART

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apua New Guinea is one of the world’s last great wild places. It’s a place where towering mountains, luscious green rainforests, remote coral reefs and sunken volcano craters combine to create an environment beckoning for exploration. However, paradise here has a sense of rugged, untameable wilderness, where nature still rules unequivocally.

I am struggling to find the words to do this country justice. Pristine is one of the first that comes to mind. Until recently, Papua New Guinea’s contact with the outside world has been limited. A land of towering terrain, dense jungle and a labyrinth of islands, communication was often limited by geographical means. Even today, only 18 percent of the population live in urban centres. For these reasons, travelling around Papua New Guinea compares to no-where else on earth.

Papua New Guinea is a diverse place, both ecologically and culturally.

There are over 850 known languages, representing a staggering 12 percent of the world’s languages. Culturally, it is estimated that more than 1,000 distinct groups exist in the country, each with their own customs, language, art, weaponry and architecture. It is also a place with a tumultuous history.

Having been ruled by several changing external powers, the country gained independence in 1975. To this day, one of the main challenges of New Guinea is governing hundreds of diverse and isolated communities.

Papua New Guinea contains five percent of the world biodiversity, on only one percent of the world’s landmass.

The country is rich in endemic species both above and below the surface with countless species of mammal, bird, fish and invertebrates found nowhere else on Earth. New species are frequently discovered in the area, most recently by an Australian expedition, who discovered three new species of mammal in the country’s interior.

Such discoveries are an incredibly rare occurrence in the modern world.

Underwater, Papua New Guinea resembles a figurative garden of Eden. Part of the coral-triangle, this ecoregion contains more than 75 percent of the world’s known coral species and 37 percent of the world’s fish species. Towering seamounts, sunken volcanoes and stunning coral lagoons await any diver who is willing to explore the region.

My journey into Papua New Guinea’s wild places took place in the province in New Britain, 560 kilometres north of the country’s capital, Port Moresby. The largest island in the Bismarck archipelago, this region is volcanic, green and mountainous. Known for its palm oil plantations, the island is flanked to the north by the Kimbe Bay, a globally renowned diving hotspot.

I was in New Britain to join the new liveaboard, MV Oceania, for a ten-day trip around Kimbe Bay, the Witu Islands and Fathers Reef. After being collected from the rural

The experience left me with a taste of what pristine reefs truly look like and a new appreciation for the importance of effective marine conservation

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Hoskins airport, transport to the boat involved a scenic ride through small towns, tropical rainforest and palm oil plantations. I arrived at one of the most impressive liveaboards I have seen.

MV Oceania is a 27-metre catamaran with accommodation for 16 guests. Lovingly renovated by Captain Dan Johnson and his local crew, the boat is spacious, modern and provides the perfect platform for comfortable diving. All cabins have ensuites, air conditioning, windows and power outlets, and I can safely say the beds are some of the most comfortable I have ever slept on, be it on land or at sea.

After a briefing and introduction to the friendly and superlative crew, we departed for our first destination, Vanessa’s Reef. Unsure of what to expect, I jumped in the water ready for anything. As I descended into the warm, blue water, my world was transformed into a backdrop of shimmering colour. Schools of fish glinted in the sunshine and soft corals, larger than me, covered the seafloor. As I swam through the jungle of life, I knew that my trip to Papua New Guinea was off to a cracking start.

Our next two dives of the day provided just as much excitement. Joelle’s Reef and Anne Sophie were characterised by giant sea whips, giant sponges and schools of jack and barracuda, which swam around divers like a living river. It was a photographer’s paradise, providing opportunities for the macro enthusiast and wide-angle pro alike. A new opportunity presented itself at every turn. I was quickly beginning to understand why world-renowned underwater photographers list the region as one of their all-time favourite dive sites.

For the next leg of our journey, it was time to make the overnight motor to the remote Witu Islands, to the North West of Kimbe Bay. As the gently rocking of the boat over the choppy seas lulled me to sleep that night, my dreams were of galaxies of silver fish and forests of coral, showing the diversity of life at its finest.

Vibrant soft corals

MV Oceania

Awaking the next morning I found ourselves anchored off a picture-perfect tropical island, where lush green rainforest met sandy beaches and azure blue seas. As I prepared for the day of diving, a pod of dolphins swam past and I felt myself in a scene from a Blue Planet documentary.

The next three days diving at the Witu Islands proved just as fascinating as the first. A variety of seamounts, walls and drift dives kept providing a plethora of life. Highlights included the creatively named Krackafat, where schools of barracuda, tuna and jacks are so dense they almost block out the sunlight and witnessing two eagle rays mating at the wall dive, Swamp-Tinny.

At night, Captain Dan would take us into a large bay, the remnants of a sunken volcano crater where we were able to explore the sloping crater depths at night. All manner of critters from moray eels to alien-like shrimps could be found on the crater’s edge. Such diving provided an addictive treasure hunt.

After several days of non-stop diving, we pulled anchor and set sail for the remote Father’s Reefs, on the eastern side of Kimbe Bay, where we were to spend the remainder of our journey. Arriving just before dawn, we anchored in mirror-calm water and prepared for our first dives.

Fathers Reefs lie offshore and are made up of several coral pinnacles rising up from several hundred metres. As such, they are known for large inquisitive pelagic species, which can be seen on almost every dive. Friendly turtles, schools of tuna and the healthiest shark population in Papua New Guinea ensure these dive sites are actioned packed and memorable.

We spent our days on seamounts, watching the daily lives

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Turtle

Anemonefish Barracuda

Crinoid feeding in the current

of fish, sharks and turtles pass by. Following the standard set in the rest of Papua New Guinea, the corals were healthy and plentiful, adjourned with large sponges, soft corals and sea whips. The seamounts and pinnacles conjured images of large underwater cities, buzzing with highways of sparkling fish.

The reefs remain this way in part due to their remoteness and in part due to the conservation efforts of local organisations who value the importance of such a unique, untouched environment. Upon returning to land, I spent several days at the beautiful Walindi Plantation Resort, whose tropical gardens and beautiful bungalows provide the perfect base for exploring the surrounding region.

Walindi not only introduces tourists to the Kimbe Bay region but also plays an incredibly active role in conserving the underwater environment of New Britain. Founded by the owners of Walindi Resort, Max and Cecilie Benjamin, Mahonia Na Dari is a not-for-profit organisation based in the grounds of the resort who work with local school children, scientists and communities to understand and conserve the natural environment of Kimbe Bay and Papua New Guinea for the benefit of present and future generations. Having reached more than 150,000 school children, the organisation is an exceptional advocate for marine conservation and education within Kimbe Bay and New Britain.

Diving in Papua New Guinea changed my opinion of what is truly wild. The experience left me with a taste of what pristine reefs truly look like and a new appreciation for the importance of effective marine conservation. My ten days at sea left me wanting more - and Papua New Guinea quickly cemented its way into my psyche. n

I was quickly beginning to understand why worldrenowned underwater photographers list the region as one of their all-time favourite dive sites WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU

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FOURTH ELEMENT SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION (SRP: £29.95-£59.95) Fourth Element has released its Summer 2020 Collection so we can emerge into the sunlight looking cool.

In a statement, Fourth Element explained: “For Summer 2020, there are messages of hope for the environment and celebrations of unity, splashed by a colour palette that is anything but gloomy. For divers, freedivers, conservationists and ocean lovers alike, it’s time to come together and tell the world what we believe the future should look like.”

They added: “All our designs are printed in water-based inks, these are free from harmful chemicals and therefore more gentle on the environment. Each T-shirt in this collection is made from 100 percent organic cotton, traceable from farm to factory, GMO-free and grown without the use of chemicals. They all come packaged 100 percent plastic-free too!” The Summer 2020 Collection is available to buy online now! Many designs come in male and female cuts, but there are some women-only designs as well. www.fourthelement.com

SHARKSKIN CHILLPROOF TITANIUM RANGE (SRP: £40-215) Australian brand Sharkskin have always been at the cutting edge of exposure protection, and with their new Chillproof Titanium, they claim this is ‘a gamechanging new fabric that will revolutionise the way you dive’.

The Chillproof Titanium offers unprecedented warmth in a neutrally buoyant trilaminate garment due to far infrared captured, generated and radiated by titanium nanoparticles in the fabric.

Sharkskin Chillproof Titanium retains all the features of traditional Chillproof – neutrally buoyant, breathable, windproof, water-repellent, flexible and lightweight.

While being incredibly warm, the Sharkskin Chillproof Titanium looks incredibly cool with a stylish new outer fabric, complimented by a chunky stainless steel zip and Titanium-look reflective graphics. www.sharkskin.com 62

GOOD TO DIVE (SRP: £2.50-£14) Fourth Element has joined forces with The Diver Medic to create an ocean-friendly disinfectant and labelling system which shows when a piece of dive kit has been cleaned and is ready to use.

The world is going to be a very different place in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. Thankfully, diving as an activity is naturally socially distant, but it is the kit side that can pose an issue.

Personal gear is not such a problem, as it is only used by the owner, though the octopus element needs dealing with, but for dive schools and dive centres, where students and those renting equipment will be coming into contact with different pieces of kit, it is more of an issue.

That’s where Good To Dive comes in. Available in a powdered form, it dissolves and is effective in fresh or salt water, and can be used to safely disinfect masks, regulators and BCDs. The Good To Dive system also includes paper-based tape, which can be applied to regs, masks and their boxes to show that they have been treated with a disinfectant.

Good To Dive is available in 1kg tubs, and just 15g prepares a gallon of sterilising fluid. www.goodtodive.com

KUBI DRYGLOVES ICELANDIC WOOL INNER GLOVES (SRP: £25)

Drygloves are becoming an increasingly familiar sight on cold-water divers, and the KUBI dryglove system is one of the most-popular, thanks to its ease of use and robust construction. Now KUBI has launched a new thermal inner glove made from 100 percent Icelandic wool. Designed with a thinner cuff, they are available in three sizes – small, large and extra-large. www.kubistore.com WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM

APEKS MARINE EQUIPMENT CLOTHING RANGE (SRP: £27-£45) Just in time for the summer, Apeks Marine Equipment has launched an eye-catching new clothing range, including T-shirts and hoodies.

The Manta Heritage Collection is in memory of the first-ever Apeks Marine Equipment regulator. These retro-inspired T-shirts, hoodies and jumpers celebrate both the produce and the product logo, which was actually hand-painted on to the regs during production!

‘Designed for life after your safety stop’, the entire Apeks Marine Equipment range is made from 100 per cent high-quality organic cotton, made in wind and solar-powered factories, printed in the UK, printed using water-based inks, and shipped in plastic-free packaging. They are printed on-demand, so there’s no overstock or wasted material. www.lifestyle-apeksdiving.com

SANTI DIVING CUBE PACKPACK (SRP: £60) Drysuit and exposure protection supremos Santi Diving have added this nifty backpack to their line-up.

According to Santi Diving, the Cube is ‘designed to meet the needs of every user with its multi-tasking’.

It is made from 100 percent waterproof PVC, and has a unique rectangular shape to maximise its load space. There are side clip straps for attaching additional items, and a small mesh pocket inside the top flap. Inside there is a padded compartment for a laptop, along with pockets for smaller items. The wide padded shoulder straps are comfortable for extended use, and there is a chest strap for greater stability. www.santidiving.com

SEALIFE MICRO 3.0 (SRP: £570)

SeaLife is introducing the new Micro 3.0 underwater camera, the latest and third generation of its popular permanentlysealed Micro camera series. The camera is leak-proof with no O-rings to lube or maintain, so there is never a worry about flooding the camera.

Like its forerunners, the Micro 3.0 features an ergonomic, compact design with easy-to-use controls and menus. The camera has a 16-megapixel Sony CMOS image sensor and offers 4K ultra-high definition video. Since it’s permanently sealed, the Micro 3.0 has a large three-plus hour battery good for a full day of diving and built-in 64GB of memory to store thousands of photos and hours of video.

The camera’s ease of use starts with the three wide piano key type buttons that are easy to locate and control, even with dive gloves on. The intuitive camera’s Easy Set-up feature quickly guides you through the correct settings based on the shooting environment, depth and lighting accessories used.

While the Micro 3.0 takes away the fuss and fiddling with WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM

camera controls that plague most underwater cameras, the Micro 3.0 does have an easy option for fine-tuning underwater images with manual white balance adjustments and the ability to capture images in RAW format, for those that want to edit their images later.

The built-in wide angle 100° lens allows the diver to get close to the subjects while still keeping everything in the picture.

The Micro 3.0 offers WiFi sharing ability, so you can wirelessly preview, download and share pictures and videos to a smart phone or tablet with the free Micro 3+ app available at Google Play or Apple App stores.

The larger 260K high-resolution 2.4” TFT colour LCD display makes capturing and reviewing photos and video easy.

The Micro 3.0 includes the Micro 3.0 camera, wrist strap, USB adapter, 3’/90cm USB cable and camera pouch. The optional ‘Screen Shield’ is available for the camera’s display window to protect it from fingerprints and scratches. www.sealife-cameras.com 63

SCUBAPRO MK25 EVO / D420 | SRP: £695

Mark Evans: Apart from a few notable exceptions over the years, such as Poseidon’s offerings and the Oceanic Omega/ Hollis 500SE, the basic design of regulator second stages has remained pretty much the same. However, Scubapro’s D-series certainly stepped away from the norm, and the D420 continues this unique heritage.

The new D420 features a brand-new balanced valve inside a housing supported by a full metal structure. Scubapro refers to this as the ‘Progressive Flow Control Valve’, able to deliver abundant airflow for the best breathing performance, with a natural smoothness comparable to what you might experience breathing on the surface.

The uniquely shaped fibreglass-reinforced nylon casing is ultra-durable and allows the low-pressure hose to be connected on either the right or the left side for maximum rigging flexibility. It is not just all looks, though - the odd shape of the D420 means the diaphragm is located in the lower section of the casing to take advantage of the pressure gradient in the upright position, making breathing even easier.

A new dive/pre-dive system includes a switch on the top

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of the casing with a thumb tab for adjusting the direction of airflow right out of the valve.

The highly efficient purge button is what Scubapro describes as ‘a technical jewel’ which is based on a new concept that gives the D420 its unique ‘face’.

The exhaust tee is compact, but is designed to efficiently deflect bubbles away from the diver’s view while enhancing ease of exhalation. Inner winglets in the casing direct airflow towards the exhaust valve. The super-flow hose features an oversized bore that allows more air to flow on each inhalation, and the compact mouthpiece is designed to improve airflow while also being very comfortable.

The D420 second stage is paired up with the tried-andtested MK25 EVO air-balanced flow-through piston design first stage, which delivers consistent and effortless airflow regardless of depth, tank pressure or breathing rate.

The patented XTIS (Extended Thermal Insulating System) fully insulates the inner mechanism from the environment, improving cold-water resistance by 30 percent and delaying ice formation in extreme cold-water conditions.

Two opposing high-pressure ports allow the first stage to

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be positioned either up or down, and the five high-flow and one axial super-high-flow low pressure ports on a swivel turret maximise hose routing options.

So, what’s it like to dive? I remember back in the day diving on an older D-series regulator when I was in Italy for the launch of a new Scubapro product and we all went for a dive in the Portofino marine reserve. The second stage did feel a little weird in your mouth, mainly because there was no much reg to see out of your mask compared to a more-traditionalstyle second stage. However, it breathed sublimely. Fast forward to now, and I finally got to play with a D420 that had been sitting in my office since March. I was all set to go diving with it as the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown went into place, so it has been tantalising me ever since. The first thing to mention is the breathe. It is so smooth, regardless of position in the water, and what depth you are at. Scubapro makes a big deal out of the inhalation effort being as close to on land as possible, and it is ever so smooth.

As with my first experience of a D-series, I was taken by how little of the reg you can actually see through your mask. Most of the main workings are situated in front of

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your chin, so all you can see is the very top of the casing.

The thumb tab on the casing here is easy to locate and operate even wearing neoprene gloves, and this acts like a venturi, directing the airflow out of the valve.

The purge is simple to locate and operate, again when wearing gloves, and it is more of a pivoting design rather than a push button. It works well and is very efficient.

The Scubapro mouthpiece is one of the most-comfortable on the market, and you get no jaw fatigue when diving the regulator. The exhaust is quite small, but as long as you have even a small bit of forward motion, it efficiently gets rid of the bubbles up either side of your head.

The look of the D420 will not be to everyone’s taste, as it is truly unique and looks like nothing else on the market, but it breathes exceptionally well, the controls can all be found and used even while wearing gloves, and at the end of the day, it is the performance that counts. If you are in the market for a high-end regulator and don’t mind standing out from the crowd, the MK25 EVO / D420 combo is well worth checking out. www.scubapro.com

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SCHOLARSHIP DIARY

The Our World-Underwater Scholarship Society is a non-profit, educational organisation whose mission is to promote educational activities associated with the underwater world. It has offered scholarships for over 35 years. owuscholarship.org

EXPLORING THE DARK AND THE ICY PHOTOGRAPHS BY KIM HILDEBRAND

W

e were also lucky enough to encounter seven different penguin species throughout the trip - gentoo, king, Adelie, rockhopper, Magellanic, Macaroni and chinstrap penguins, some of them we even saw diving underwater!

One of the highlights of our time in South Georgia, known as the Galapagos of the Southern Ocean because of its incredible richness in wildlife, was the visit to the world´s largest king penguin breeding colony at St Andrews, and the second-largest at Golden Harbour. At these sites, we could not only experience the curiosity of the majestic king penguins, but also we could find quite some southern elephant seals hauled out on the beach to moult.

Witnessing some of the world´s largest seals roar at each other and occasionally fight for the best haul-out spot was truly impressive.

As we then sailed southbound along the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula, through the imposing Gerlache Strait and finally across the Antarctic Circle, there was no other feeling than pure awe and fascination for the landscapes of the seventh continent. With the breath-taking mountains in the background, covered in snow and with glaciers pushing through the valleys all the way to the sea, we watched Adelie

penguins and crabeater seals as they hauled out on floating ice sheets, and saw the blows, backs and flukes of orcas, humpback and minke whales between the bright white and blue icebergs.

Despite the beauty we saw in this landscape, we could unfortunately of course also see the effects of the warming global climate - this year´s summer had been the warmest ever in the history of temperature recordings in Antarctica, and this was ubiquitously mirrored in the icy landscapes.

With glacier fronts breaking and retreating, and many of the penguins trying to find the last snowy spot on the stony beach and eating pieces of snow to keep themselves from overheating, this trip has really opened my eyes in many ways.

I feel so incredibly privileged that I have been able to see both the awe-inspiring beauty, but also the vulnerability of this very special place, and I hope, that we together as humans will take responsibility for our actions more and understand, that everyone´s contribution, little or big, counts to conserve our planet and the oceans with all their wonders. n

Kim Hildebrandt

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