The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767 - 1780 Volume IV by SeaWatch Books

Fully Framed Model Swan IV DJ 295.qxp

12/22/10

2:26 PM

Page 1

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, RIGGING A SIXTH RATE SLOOP OF 1767-1780 Volume IV

David Antscherl

His principal activities at present are stage design, writing, teaching theater arts and fine arts, conserving paintings and other artifacts, and commissioned model making. In 2000 David won the Howard I. Chapelle Memorial Award and a Silver medal for Polyphemus at the Nautical Research Guild annual conference. As a result of meeting Greg write The Swan Class Practicum on which this book is based. SEAWATCHBOOKS LLC

David is an “empty-nester” with one daughter

19 Sea Watch Place, Florence, OR 97439 USA

and two stepchildren. He lives in Waterloo,

Phone (541) 997-4439 • Fax (541) 997-1282

Ontario with his wife Carol and friendly feline

E-mail: seawatchbooks@gmail.com • Web: www.seawatchbooks.com

Kit Kaboodle.

VOLUME IV

SEAWATCHBOOKS LLC

DAVID ANTSCHERL was born in London, England in 1944. When he was very young, his father took him to the annual Model Engineer Exhibitions. What he saw there inspired him and he became a life-long modeler. David’s first completed ship model was the Mayflower II, built while the prototype was being constructed in 1954 at Brixham, Devon. The teenaged David was encouraged by the National Maritime Museum’s Len Tucker to join a ship-modeling club. The youngest member of the Greenwich and District Ship Model Society, David received much encouragement from its members, and in 1962 won a bronze medal for his model of Nimble, a Revenue cutter of 1812.

DAVID ANTSCHERL

Herbert at that time, David was encouraged to

The Fully Framed Model, RIGGING A SIXTH RATE SLOOP OF 1767-1780

The Fully Framed Model, RIGGING A SIXTH RATE SLOOP OF 1767-1780 VOLUME IV

David immigrated to Canada in 1968, and began work on his model of Polyphemus. For many years David worked as a corporate

David Antscherl

graphic designer, but gradually took on increasing amounts of theatrical design work. (Continued on back flap)

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL Rigging a sixth-rate sloop OF 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR by David Antscherl with photographs & illustrations by the author

SeaWatch Books LLC

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL Rigging a sixth-rate sloop OF 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR by David Antscherl with photographs & illustrations by the author

An illustrated guide to masting and rigging a British naval sloop of the 1770’s. Following the instructions step by step, the experienced model-maker may use this book as a primer for rigging models of most square-rigged naval vessels of the 1760-1800 time period.

Published by SeaWatch Books LLC

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the publishers.

Published and distributed by SeaWatchBooks LLC 2040 Milburn Ave., Suite 102 #109 Maplewood, NJ 07040Web: www.seawatchbooks.com Email: info@seawatchbooks.com Tel: 201 292 4262 ISBN 978-0-9820579-8-8 Manufactured in The United States of America

CONTENTS

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

Drafting a typical mast Drafting a typical yard Preparing to make masts & spars

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

5 11 12

CHAPTER FOURTEEN

Making a lower mast spindle Lower mast cheeks Lower mast head Bibs Wooldings Standing rigging color Woolding hoops Lower mast caps Lower mast trestle trees Lower mast cross trees Chocks Bolsters Mast head battens Fore and main topmasts Mizzen topmast Topmast caps Topmast trestle & cross trees Topgallant masts Mast trucks Bowsprit Bees Bowsprit woolding Jibboom saddle Spritsail yard sling cleat Bowsprit cap Bowsprit running rigging saddle Gammoning cleats Finishing the bowsprit Jibboom Addendum to hull fittings

15 16 17 17 18 18 18 19 19 20 20 20 20 21 24 24 24 25 25 26 26 27 27 27 27 28 29 29 30 30

Ropewalk Materials for spinning rope Anatomy of rope Laying right-hand rope Laying left-hand cable Lower mast standing rigging Bowsprit gammoning Preparing bowsprit collars Inner bobstay collar and heart Serving lines Inner bobstay collar, continued Bowsprit shroud collars Fore stay collar Outer bobstay collar Fore stay preventer collar Bowsprit horses Thimbles Bobstays Bowsprit shrouds Fore tack blocks Boomkin shrouds Burton pendants Mizzen shrouds Fore and main shrouds Mizzen stay Mizzen stay collar Main stay collar Main stay Main preventer stay collar Main preventer stay Fore stay Fore preventer stay Futtock staves

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 39 40 41 42 43 43 43 44 44 45 45 46 46 46 50 50 52 52 52 53 53 54 54 55

iii

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Ratlines 55 Catharpins 56 Futtock plates 57 Tops 58 Buntline blocks 63 Leechline blocks 64 Spritsail yard brace blocks 64 Futtock shrouds 64 Euphroes 65 Euphroe tackle 65 Crowsfeet 67 CHAPTER SIXTEEN

Burton pendants Fore and main topmast shrouds Mizzen topmast shrouds Sister blocks Topmast futtock staves Topmast ratlines Fore and main topmast backstays Mizzen topmast stay Main topmast preventer stay Main topmast preventer stay collar Main topmast preventer stay tackle Jibboom crupper Fore topmast stay Fore topmast preventer stay

69 69 70 70 70 70 71 71 73 73 74 75 76 77

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

Jib traveler Bowsprit horses Fore topmast staysail netting Jibboom horses Main topgallant shrouds Main topgallant backstay Fore topgallant shrouds Fore topgallant backstay Main topgallant stay Main topgallant stay span Jibboom guy pendants Fore topgallant stay & bowline collar

79 80 80 81 82 82 83 83 83 84 84 84

Spritsail yard lift collar Fore topgallant stay Sprit topsail bowline collar

85 85 86

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Spritsail yard 87 Spritsail yard halliard block & strop 88 Spritsail halliard 88 Spritsail yard clueline blocks 88 Jib guy pendant thimbles & strops 89 Spritsail yard stirrups 89 Spritsail yard horses 89 Spritsail yard standing lift 90 Spritsail yard slings 90 Spritsail yard lifts 91 Spritsail yard brace pendants 91 Spritsail yard braces 91 Jib guy falls 92 Jib stay 92 Fore yard 93 Main yard 93 Studdingsail irons 93 Blocks for the fore yard 95 Blocks for the main yard 95 Lower yard stirrups and horses 98 Lower yard tackle pendants & blocks 98 Topsail sheet & lower yard lift blocks 98 Lower yard truss pendants 99 Fitting studdingsail irons 99 Lower yard studdingsail booms 99 Crossing lower yards 100 Lower yard jeer tye blocks 100 Lower yard jeer tye block strops 100 Lower yard jeer tyes and tackle 102 Faking down 103 Truss pendant tackle 104 Nave lines 104 Lower yard slings 104 Lower yard lifts 105 Cross-jack yard fittings 106 Cross-jack yard slings 107 Cross-jack yard truss 108

CONTENTS

Cross-jack yard lifts 108 Main stay tackles 108 Lower yard tackle falls 109 Outer tricing lines 110 Inner tricing lines 111 Fore yard braces 111 Main yard braces 111 Cross-jack yard braces 112 Gaff: preparatory work 112 Gaff brail blocks 113 Peak halliard block 113 Throat halliard blocks 113 Gaff parrel 113 Gaff throat halliard 114 Gaff peak halliard 114 Mizzen topsail yard brace blocks 114 Ensign halliard block 114 CHAPTER NINETEEN

Mizzen topsail yard 115 Mizzen topsail yard horses 115 Mizzen topsail yard sheet blocks 115 Mizzen topsail yard clueline blocks 116 Mizzen topsail yard brace pendants 116 Mizzen topsail yard truss parrel 116 Mizzen topsail yard tye & halliard 116 Mizzen topsail yard lift blocks 117 Mizzen topsail yard lifts 117 Mizzen topsail yard braces 118 Vangs 118 Ensign halliards 118 Ensign 119 Jack 119 Fore topsail yard 122 Main topsail yard 122 Fore topsail yard tye block 122 Main topsail yard tye block 122 Fore topsail yard buntline blocks 122 Main topsail yard buntline blocks 122 Fore topgallant sheet blocks 123 Main topgallant sheet blocks 123 Fore topsail clueline blocks 123

Main topsail clueline blocks 123 Fore topsail yard stirrups & horses 123 Main topsail yard stirrups & horses 123 Fore topsail yard brace pendants 123 Main topsail yard brace pendants 123 Fore topsail yard lift blocks 123 Main topsail yard lift blocks 123 Topsail yard boom irons 123 Flemish horses 124 Upper studdingsail booms 124 Fore topsail yard tyes 124 Main topsail yard tyes 124 Fore topsail yard tye falls 125 Main topsail yard tye falls 125 Fore topsail yard parrels 126 Main topsail yard parrels 126 Fore topsail yard lifts 127 Main topsail yard lifts 127 Main topsail yard braces 128 Fore topsail yard braces 129 CHAPTER TWENTY

Topgallant yard clueline blocks 131 Topgallant yard jewel blocks 131 Topgallant yard horses 131 Topgallant yard tyes 132 Topgallant yard parrels 132 Topgallant yard tye halliards 133 Fore topgallant yard braces 133 Main topgallant yard braces 134 Shroud cleats 134 Fore topgallant yard lifts 135 Main topgallant yard lifts 135 Mast trucks 135

CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE

Fish davit 137 Fish tackle block 137 Fish tackle hook and pendant 138 Fish tackle 138

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Fish back 139 Cat blocks 139 Cat falls 140 Cat backs 140 Anchor stowage 140 Bower anchor stowage 141 Kedge anchor stowage 141 Nun buoy 141 Shank painter chains and ropes 143 Entering ropes 143 Stern ladders 144

Fore topsail cluelines 159 Fore topsail leechlines 159 Fore topsail buntlines 159 Fore topsail bowlines and bridles 159 Fore topsail sheets 159 Fore topsail reef tackles 160 Mizzen topsail 160 Mizzen topsail cluelines 161 Mizzen topsail buntlines 161 Mizzen topsail bowlines and bridles 161 Mizzen topsail sheets 161

CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO

CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR

Main course 145 Reef points 148 Head earings 149 Lacings or rope bands 149 Gaskets 149 Main course cluelines or cluegarnets 150 Main course leechlines 150 Main course buntlines 151 Main course bowlines and bridles 151 Main sheet 151 Main tack 152 Fore course 152 Fore course cluelines or cluegarnets 152 Fore course leechlines 153 Fore course buntlines 153 Fore course bowlines and bridles 153 Fore sheet 154 Fore tack 154

Main topgallant sail 163 Main topgallant cluelines 164 Main topgallant bowlines and bridles 164 Main topgallant sheets 164 Fore topgallant sail 164 Fore topgallant cluelines 165 Fore topgallant bowlines and bridles 165 Spritsail 165 Spritsail cluelines 166 Spritsail buntlines 166 Spritsail sheets 167 Lower studdingsail rigging 167 Main lower stunsails 168 Fore lower stunsails 168 Stunsail robands and earings 169 Stunsail inner halliards 169 Stunsail sheets 170 Stunsail tack blocks and tacks 170 Main topmast stunsails 170 Fore topmast stunsails 171 Topmast stunsail halliards 172 Topmast stunsail sheets 172 Topmast stunsail tacks 172 Topgallant stunsails 172

CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE

Main topsail 155 Main topsail cluelines 157 Main topsail leechlines 157 Main topsail buntlines 158 Main topsail bowlines and bridles 158 Main topsail sheets 158 Main topsail reef tackles 158 Fore topsail 159

CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE

Jibsail 173 Jibsail halliard 175

CONTENTS

Jibsail sheets 176 Jibsail outhaul 176 Jibsail downhaul 176 Fore topmast staysail 176 Fore topmast staysail stay 178 Fore topmast staysail halliard 178 Fore topmast staysail sheets 179 Fore topmast staysail downhaul 179 Fore staysail 179 Fore staysail halliard 179 Fore staysail sheets 179 Fore staysail downhaul 180 Fore staysail tack 180 Main staysail stay 180 Main staysail 180 Main staysail halliard 180 Main staysail sheets 181 Main staysail downhaul 181 Main staysail tack 181 Middle staysail 181 Main topmast staysail 182 Main topmast staysail halliard 182 Main topmast staysail sheets 182 Main topmast staysail downhaul 182 Main topmast staysail tack 184 Main topmast staysail brails 184 Main topgallant staysail 184 Main topgallant staysail stay 185 Main topgallant staysail halliard 185 Main topgallant staysail sheets 185

Main topgallant staysail downhaul Main topgallant staysail tacks Mizzen staysail Mizzen staysail stay Mizzen staysail halliard Mizzen staysail sheets Mizzen staysail downhaul Mizzen staysail tacks Mizzen staysail brails Mizzen topmast staysail Mizzen topmast staysail halliard Mizzen topmast staysail sheets Mizzen topmast staysail downhaul Mizzen topmast staysail tacks Mizzen sail or mizzen course Mizzen sail earings Mizzen sail lacing to the gaff Mizzen sail tack Mizzen sail sheets Mizzen sail brails

185 185 186 186 186 186 187 187 187 187 188 188 188 188 189 190 191 191 191 191

CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX

Rudder pendants 193 Anchor cables 193 Cable stoppers 194 INDEX 197 Color photographs

207

All photographs in this book are of the author’s model of Resolution, 1772-3. This model was built at a scale of 1:48 for a private collection between 2003 and 2010.

vii

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

viii

FOREWORD

F OR EWOR D

olume IV of the Swan series of books marks a major accomplishment. David Antscherl has created a body of work in this book that is both a conclusion to the entire Swan project as well as a major stand-alone book on the art and practice of masting, rigging and providing sails for an eighteenth century model. But first, a little background on the history of this immense project that has stretched over ten years. The collaboration between David Antscherl and Greg Herbert has resulted in the publication of four books on the Swan Class Sloops of 1767-1780, a full set of plans for one of the ships, Pegasus, a subscription practicum and available fittings packages, as well as a continuing series of handson seminars. And, all of this began innocently enough with a conversation between the two men at a Nautical Research Guild annual meeting. The concept that was created from that meeting is easily stated: Could a master modeler and draftsman, David Antscherl, teach and mentor a relative newcomer, Greg Herbert, how to build an accurate plank on frame model of an eighteenth century ship? The answer to the question, as shown in the pictures of Greg’s completed model in Volume III is a resounding “yes”! The model was to be built in an upright manner, mirroring the methods used by the original shipwrights. This modeling technique was a next logical step in the recent progression of plank on frame modeling reintroduced with Harold Hahn’s stylized inverted jig method. Once the project was started, teacher and student worked hand-in-hand so that David’s instructions and plans were tested, put into practice, and revised before being finalized. The archaic practices of shipwrights of the period melded with modern technology as hundreds of e-mails and files passed back and forth and, once the work was completed, all four volumes were digitally transmitted for final production into books. Today ship modelers have a treasure trove of sources in the form of books, plans, electronic media and internet sources to aid them in their work. It is a far cry from when I started to build ship models fifty years ago. In those days, there was very little instructional material available. I am very glad to have played a part in filling that void. I believe that David’s work in creating and authoring three of the four volumes of the Swan series will provide inspiration, guidance and instruction for all levels of ship modelers for many generations to come. Well done, David! Bob Friedman, Florence, OR

July 2010

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

PREFACE

Volume IV: Masting and rigging the ship-rigged sloop, 1767-1780

t is with some trepidation that I embark on this, the fourth and final volume in the series on building a ship-rigged sloop. Since publication of the earlier volumes I have had many requests to write a companion book on masting and rigging. My response until now has been that there are many other books readily available covering the subject. I have finally been persuaded that there is, in fact, a gap that has not yet been filled. Therefore, this is my attempt to meet that need.

I should point out that I have no pretensions to expertise on this particular subject. In the past I have restored rigging piecemeal on museum models, but had never attempted completely rigging a model until recently. The subject of this book is Resolution of 1772-1773, one of Captain Cook’s exploration vessels. Although she began life as a merchant collier, when taken into the Navy she was re-rigged as a sixth rate sloop. The rig is virtually identical to other ship-rigged sloops of the era, including the Swan class described in previous volumes. A sixth rate, ship-rigged sloop is a small warship, square-rigged on three masts. "Sloop" in this context refers to the vessel’s small size (14 to 18 guns) and not to its rig. In the sources used, notably Steel, reference is made to instructions and tables for "ships", and not to those for (single masted) "sloops, cutters and hoys". This can be confusing, because in the masting tables, the ship size referred to is that of “Sloops of 300 Tons.” Whilst rigging the model and writing this volume, I have discovered numerous grey areas for which I was unable to find definitive answers from the other literature. In some cases conjecture and "best guess" have been employed; I have tried to clearly flag such instances. In reality I am sure that there were variations in rigging practice and, of course, developmental changes over the time-period from 1760 to 1800. First, a word about the process of building a ship. It is not until one has had the experience of building a detailed model hull and then masting and rigging it that one begins to understand the enormous complexity and variety of skills required to built an 18th century wooden ship. The administrators, designers, draftsmen, master shipwrights, carpenters and sawyers, metalworkers and smiths, caulkers, coopers, victuallers, carvers, painters, ropemakers, blockmakers, sailmakers and riggers that needed to coordinate their efforts to produce a highly sophisticated machine capable of sailing around the world when “requested and required” were truly remarkable.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

I should like to thank my new publishers SeaWatch Books and, in particular, Bob, who, like a friendly Hound of Hell, has patiently pursued me for years to write this additional volume. Also appreciated is Cathy, who spent hours correcting my very Canadian punctuation. I should like to acknowledge my long-time friend and business partner Dr. Greg Herbert again, who set this whole project in motion in 2002. My gratitude and heartfelt thanks is due, once more, to my critical reader David Hill. He has spent many tedious hours questioning and correcting me. He has pointed out numerous items that, had they been published, would have undermined the credibility of this volume. He also cross-referenced all the Sweetman and Steel pages, see below. This book is much enhanced by his diligence. My dubious thanks too, to all who have requested, wheedled, cajoled and twisted my arm for this book. I should also like to acknowledge Alexander C. Robinson, who has kindly allowed me to publish photographs of the model of Resolution seen in these pages. Further thanks are due to all those, past and present, who have written, preserved and published information on which I was able to draw. Their names appear time and time again in the footnotes. Sincere gratitude goes to my loving wife Carol, whose encouragement and gracious indulgence have given me time to write and illustrate this volume. Any remaining errors and omissions on these pages are entirely mine. So, for better or worse, here it is. October 11, 2010

43° 27' 40" N

80° 31' 20" W

A note on references to Steel: David Steel, The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship, in two volumes, was originally published in London in 1794. A facsimile reprint, also in two volumes, was published by Sim Comfort Associates in 1978. Equivalent tables from this work are also available in the annotated edition entitled, Steel’s Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging, arranged by Claude S. Gill, published by W & G Foyle, 1932, London (referred to as the Foyle edition), and the facsimile reprint of that edition by Edward W. Sweetman, 1955, New York (the Sweetman edition). Used copies of these works are frequently available through used book vendors on the internet, such as abebooks.com The Sweetman edition is more affordable and most readily available. There is now an electronic edition of the original 1794 work available which may be viewed online at www.hnsa.org/ doc/steel/index.htm Citations from this are consistent with the Sim Comfort reprint of the 1794 work (though these should agree with both original and electronic editions of the same). Where applicable, the corresponding page or pages from the Sweetman edition is also noted, i.e. “Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 11, (Sweetman, page 13)”.

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

CHAPTER THIRTEEN 1

he first task the neophyte mast-maker and rigger faces is to calculate the dimensions of all the masts and spars that will be required for his or her ship model. Rarely are these available. Suitable tables of dimensions may be found in David Steel’s Rigging and Seamanship of 1794.2 Although this date is some fifteen to twenty-five years after that of the Swan class, there were very few changes in masts and spars over that period. The most obvious was the introduction of the driver boom. This spar held the foot of the mizzen course or driver boomsail. In the era of the Swan class, the mizzen course was loose-footed. (As new terms are introduced, they are given in italics and a definition provided with their first use.) Alternatively, masting and sparring plans are commercially available. One of these is published and distributed by Admiralty Models.3 Once one has found the principal dimensions of the masts and spars for the particular rate of ship, proportional tables in Steel’s text enable one to calculate tapers and proportions for each and every mast and spar required. For those who either need or choose to do this work themselves, I will give examples of developing drawings of masts and spars. Please note that, as in Volumes I and II, I have tried to present items in the order that they are made and assembled on a model, rather than in the sequence used in full-sized practice.

13.1 Drafting a typical lower mast First, I will describe drafting the fore mast of a sixth rate. All mast and spar lengths are derived from proportions based on the principal dimensions of the ship to which they are fitted. That said, often spars for a particular ship did not match these ideals, particularly in time of war.4 The main mast’s given length, on which all other spar dimensions are derived, is half the length between perpendiculars plus extreme breadth. Given length is the overall length of a mast or spar. In the following example, the fore mast is eight-ninths of the main mast’s given length (Steel, Volume I, page 39). For those who do not possess the previous books, the first twelve chapters appear in Volumes I and II. Chapter and section numbers are designed to prevent duplication or confusion in cross-referencing.

David Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, see the note opposite.

David Antscherl, Sparring plan for sixth rates including Swan class sloops c.1775, available through the web site www.admiraltymodels.com 3

Sometimes tables of spar dimensions are noted on ships’ draughts, showing that "close enough" was good enough.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The relevant column in Steel’s tables, page 50, Volume I, has made all the necessary calculations. It gives the overall length of this mast as 56' 0" with a given diameter of 16⅜". Given diameter is the maximum diameter of a mast or spar. In the case of a lower mast, this is at the level of the uppermost continuous deck in the ship, at the partners. (For information on the partners, see Volumes I and II.) You will need to measure, on either the profile draught or your model, the distance from the top of the mast step to the upper deck. This determines the point of given diameter along its overall length of 56' 0". Above and below this point, the mast tapers. To this overall length must be added the square tenon at the foot of the mast that will sit in the mast step mortise. The next step in drafting the mast is to determine the length of the masthead. This is the length of mast that sits above the level of the trestle-trees. Trestle-trees are the supports for the platform or top that is situated near the upper end of the lower masts. This length is, again, a proportion of the overall length. Steel gives this as 5" for every yard in length. (A yard in this context is a unit of linear measurement of 3' 0" or 36".) In about 1770 this proportion was increased from the former 4" per yard in length. The length of the masthead is calculated as follows: 56' 0" divided by 3 = 18.67 yards. Multiply this by 5" = 93.3". This, divided by 12 and rounded off, gives a measurement of 7' 9". Mark this length off along your base line as shown (illustration 1). The distance between the partners and the lower end of the masthead is now sub-divided into four equal distances known as quarters. The distance from partners to the heel (the lower end of the mast) is also subdivided into equal quarters. At each quarter, the diameter of the mast is given as a proportion derived from the given diameter. The proportions are as follows: At the first quarter: Second quarter: Third quarter and heel:

60/61 14/15 6/7

In addition, the mast head, rectangular in section at the lower end, is 3/4 of the given diameter in a fore and aft direction, and 6/7 athwartships at the lower end. At the upper end it is 5/8 square. Calculating these fractions based on the given diameter of 16⅜" gives the following:

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

At the first quarter:

60/61 16⅛" Second quarter: 14/15 15⅜" Third quarter and heel: 6/7 14⅛" Masthead, fore & aft: 3/4 12⅜" Masthead, athwartships: 6/7 14⅛" Upper end: 5/8 11" Of course, if one has a copy of Steel, all these measurements have already been calculated for you and tabulated on page 45 in his original Volume I (Sweetman, page 50). In fact, I simply copied out the relevant figures above, rather than calculate them for myself. These measurements may now be applied to the drawing (illustration 2, previous page); to the nearest half-inch is more than sufficiently accurate! Half the diameter is marked off on each side of the centerline at each quarter mark. It is now a simple matter to take a flexible curve or ships’ curve to draw a smooth line through all the points that you have plotted. The next step is to complete the mast head. At the top is a tenon for the mast cap. The mast cap is a rectangular block of wood with two holes through it; one is square for the tenon and the other, forward of this, is circular for the topmast to pass through. The thickness of this cap, and therefore the depth of the tenon, is again a proportional exercise. Steel states 5 that the cap’s length is to be four times the given diameter of the topmast plus 3 inches, its breadth to be twice that diameter plus an inch, and its depth to be 4/9 of the breadth. To determine this, one has to go back and find the length and then the diameter of the fore topmast. Annoyingly, in order to determine this, one first has to calculate the length of the main topmast! Of course, when drawing up a complete set of spars, one will need to do this anyway. The formula given by Steel 6 is: Main topmast, 3/5 of the main mast; fore topmast, 8/9 of main topmast. The calculation gives a result of 33' 4" long. The given diameter of one inch to every yard in length works out to 11¼" in diameter. Applying this figure to the proportions of the cap, its length will be 48" or 4' 0", a width of 1' 11½" and a depth of 10½".

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 26 (Sweetman page 32), item beginning ‘CAPS are next...’

Ibid, Volume I, page 39 (Sweetman page 45).

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

You can now draw the tenon (illustration 3, previous spread). The tenon slopes backwards as shown. This was intended to counteract the tendency of the cap to droop under its own weight. In large ships this measure was considered insufficient, so a supporting pillar was installed under the fore end of the cap, forward of the topmast, as additional security. For model-making purposes one could simplify things and make the tenon a plain one. As noted, the cap was also proportional to the size of the topmast. To quote Steel: 7 The holes are set off on the centre of the underside of the cap at equal distances; the substance left between the holes to be two-fifths the diameter of the round hole, and half the tapering of the masthead in length. The round hole is the foremost one, and is swept round with compasses three quarters of an inch larger than the diameter of its topmast, (to allow for leathering,) and is square from the underside to the cap’s length and breadth, and parallel to its thickness. The square hole is set off a little less than the lower part of the tenon on the masthead, and tapered from a square to the size of the upper part of the tenon upon the upper side of the cap, to fix on tight.

As you can see, Steel is very clear but wordy in his descriptions. From this information one can draw the cap accurately (illustration 3, previous spread). Its corners are rounded, and all angled edges chamfered off. There are also four strong eyebolts fixed through the cap as illustrated. To complete the details of the mast head, set off the depth of the trestle trees above the lower limit of the masthead. Steel 8 states this depth is half the given diameter of the top-mast. However, the trestle-trees will be much too flimsy if this was so, and I believe that this is a misprint. It should read "...half the diameter of the lower mast." That being the case, this depth is calculated to be about 8¼". Five iron bands about 3" wide are driven on between the trestle trees and cap at equal distances, the corners of the masthead having been first chamfered (illustration overleaf ). Eight battens are attached over the hoops 3/5 of the way up the mast head as shown. Their width is 1/8 the given diameter of the mast and half as thick. Their upper ends are snaped. Snape is a term that means angled off. This completes drafting of the mast head.

Ibid, Volume I, page 27 (Sweetman page 32).

Ibid, Volume I, page 24 (Sweetman page 29), item beginning ‘trestle-trees are sawed…’

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Below the mast head, on each side, are two cheeks. These are additional timbers that give lateral strength to the mast. The length of the cheeks changed during the time period 1750-1800, becoming progressively longer over time. In practice these were coaked to the mast spindle, but obviously this detail can be omitted in model work. Coaks are oblong pieces of wood set into shallow mortises or scores in both mating surfaces to be joined. For details on the lengths of cheeks, refer to Lees’ book (footnote opposite). He gives all the proportional information and changes in masting and rigging for over a 200 year time period. My illustration shows cheeks with lengths appropriate to about 1770 (illustration at right). The upper ends of the cheeks are called the hounds. The length of the hounds is 2/3 that of the mast head. In this example it works out to 5' 2". The hounds are rectangular in section, with brackets, the bibs or bibbs, attached to it. Two bibs support the trestle-trees. Proportions of each bib are 4/5 the length of the hounds, its breadth 2/5 of the length and thickness half that of the trestletree. There is a zig-zag score cut into the hounds to attach the bib. If the mast is raked (fore masts are usually not), the upper edge of the bib will need to be drawn at the appropriate angle, so that the trestle trees will be horizontal. Next to be drawn are wooldings. These are the turns of rope acting as reinforcement around the mast above deck level. Iron hoops replaced these in about 1800. There were five to eight wooldings on the fore mast, depending on the size of ship. A sixth rate would have had five of these. Hoops or bands of wood are nailed to the mast above and below the wooldings to keep them in position.

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

A front fish was added after about 1773, to be superseded by a rubbing paunch in 1800. These were additional lengths of timber attached to the fore side of the mast. As time went on, filling pieces were added between the cheeks and rubbing paunch to smooth the external contours of the lower mast. Again, Lees provides details of these changes.9 This description and illustrations should give you sufficient information to draft your own masts.

13.2 Drafting a typical yard As an example, I will describe drafting the fore yard for a sixth rate. Again, all dimensions are proportional and may be obtained from Steel or Lees. The principals of developing the drawing are similar to that of a mast, other than the yard is symmetrically tapered on each side of the centerline. The fore yard’s length is 7/8 that of the main yard which, in turn, is 8/9 the length of the main mast.10 The diameter of the fore yard is calculated to be 7/10" for every yard (3' 0") in length. The given dimensions of the fore yard are 48' 5" long and a given diameter of 11¼". Set off the center or baseline to this length and mark the center point. From this, mark off quarters on each side of center. Their diameters are in the following proportions: Given diameter 1/1 11½"* First quarter: 30/31 11" Second quarter: 7/8 10" Third quarter: 7/10 8" Yard arm: 3/7 5"

*This is the closest diameter to the given measurement of 11¼" taken from Steel’s tables, page 46.

As before, set half of these diameters off on either side of the centerline and join the points in a smooth curve. The first quarter each side of center is octagonal or eight-square in cross-section. This is drawn using the 7:10:7 proportionate rule (see page 281, Volume I). The rest of the yard is circular in cross-section (illustration overleaf, upper figure). However, after about 1790, the aft side of the yard was left flat for two quarters each side of center. Also, at about that time, thin protective battens of wood were added over the octagonal faces. James Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, Conway/Naval Institute Press, 1979 and later editions, page 2. 9

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 40 (Sweetman page 46).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

There are various cleats located on the yard. There are sling cleats either side of center to retain the suspending rope slings. These are, once again, proportional to the yard that they attach to. They are 1¼ the given diameter in length, and the shoulder is 1/3 along the length of the cleat. The shoulder to the outer end is hollowed. The horn of the cleat is 1/3 the length, the horn being the finger at the inner end. Breadth is 1/4 of the length; the width (thickness) is 2/3 the breadth. The sling cleats are spaced the equivalent of one diameter apart. The stop cleats at the yard-arms are placed in from the ends by 1½" to every yard (i.e. three feet!) in length. They are half the given diameter of the yard in length. Their breadth is 1/4 of this, and thickness is 2/3 of the breadth. They are nailed to the fore and aft sides of the yard. These are shown added to the drawing (illustration above, lower figure). For those interested in drafting up their own set of spars, either Steel or Lees is invaluable. However, Lees is more helpful when dealing with ships outside the 1780-1800 time period, as he describes the changes and evolution of rigging practice. I hope that the foregoing description gives the reader some idea of the work and calculations involved in producing a sparring plan.

13.3 Preparing to make masts and spars There is very little required that the model maker will not already have in the workshop. The one item that is invaluable is a holder that will take a blank "stick" and hold it at a 45° angle to square (illustration opposite). It is easily constructed from workshop scrap. A supply of stable, fine and straight-grained wood is required for the spars. If lancewood, lemonwood or degame are available, these are ideal. Maple with an unobtrusive grain pattern might make a good substitute.

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

CHAPTER FOURTEEN

his chapter describes the process of making masts and spars. The methods used to transform squared wood into accurately tapered and round spars is very similar to that used by the old-time craftsmen in the shipyards.

14.1 Making a lower mast spindle The central portion of the mast is called the spindle. Note that for model work the construction of the mast is much simplified from full-size, but the external appearance will be authentic. Cut the blank a little longer than the finished mast, but square in section to its given diameter. The first step is to lay out the drafted pattern on one face of the stick. This done, the two faces at right angles to the marked face are cut to shape. The same layout is now transferred to one of the shaped faces and the other two faces cut to the marked lines. This will give you a foursquare tapered mast. Mark the lower limit of the masthead clearly on your four-square stick. Below this, mark out the faces for cutting an octagon (eight-square) using a 7:10:7 scale (photograph at right). It is not necessary to mark the lines all along the mast. Mark them at the various quarters, transferring the quarter division points from your drawing to the mast. Place the stick on the diagonal in your spar-holder. The first octagonal face can now be cut. I use a very well-honed chisel, held bevel down, to "plane" the face down to the marks. I find that I have good control of the tool this way. You may prefer to use a small instrument-makers’ plane, although you will still need to use a chisel at the upper end near the masthead. If you begin to see any tearing out of the wood grain, cut from the opposite end of the stick. Different faces of the same stick may require reversing the stick and your direction of cut. With first octagonal face shaped, turn the stick 90° and cut the next octagonal face. Repeat this process until you have a nicely shaped octagonal stick with a square head (photograph overleaf ).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

To round off the stick, there are several options. One is to make the stick sixteen-sided, as was done in the shipyard, then smooth it off. However, I found that this not really necessary. Holding the stick in a vise, take a strip of coarse (80-grit) garnet paper and work it back and forward across the stick. Rotate the stick every few passes until there remains only a very narrow strip of "flats" all the way around (photograph opposite). Change to 100-grit and then progressively finer grits to smooth off the mast (photograph below). You will now have a round mast spindle with a square head.

14.2 The lower mast cheeks The next step is to mark the lower limit of the cheeks on either side of the mast spindle. In order to fit the cheeks, it will be necessary to cut down the sides in a taper. I cut this taper so that it stops just above the lower end of the cheek, to simplify the junction of the cheek and spindle (illustration below right and photograph opposite). Again, I use a chisel to cut the tapered faces almost down to the line. The final step is achieved by rubbing the tapered surface, face down, on a sanding board to achieve a perfectly flat face. Alternatively one could also use a set-up in a mill. Two tapered cheek blanks are cut to length and the "stop" at their lower ends marked in. The fore and aft edges of each cheek piece are then taper-planed until the cheek width matches the planed faces on the sides of the spindle. The lower ends of the cheeks are rounded off and

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

their under-surfaces made concave to fit the mast spindle. I use a gouge of an appropriate radius for this operation. The cheeks may then be glued to the spindle. The outer surfaces of the cheeks are then rounded off, remembering to leave the upper ends at the hounds square for the moment. The lower ends of the cheeks are finally shaped to the characteristic duckbill contour (also see section 13.1).

14.3 The lower masthead The masthead now needs to be built up again to its athwartships dimensions by adding two side pieces. Cutting and fitting them is a fairly straightforward job. If you are not painting or staining the mastheads, you could "tar" the joint with marker or thin black paper. You can also show the bolts that were used in full-sized practice. Make sure that their positions are correct relative to the masthead hoops (also see section 13.1). The iron hoops around the masthead can be made from chemically blackened copper or painted card. Each needs to be carefully shaped and fitted equidistantly, as drawn on your plan.

14.4 Bibs The next task is to cut scores into the cheeks for the bibs (sometimes spelled bibbs). A bib is a form of inverted knee or standard that supports the trestle tree above it. The score is a two-step tapered one that needs careful marking out and cutting first. The bibs can then be cut and fitted to these scores. Again, you may wish to show tarring in the joints and the heads of the drift bolts that fix them. Note that there is a very slight outward angle to the bibs as seen from above. Don’t make the mistake of exaggerating this angle, or the bibs will protrude sideways from under the trestle trees when you come to fitting them! The forward edges of the bibs are

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

rounded off and transition smoothly into the hounds. Anywhere where lines (ropes) may rub against wood or metal, they are rounded off and smoothed. The photograph shows my own version of the masthead with all its bolts and iron hoops. Steel11 specifies all these features, so refer to this if you wish to add details.

14.5 Wooldings The wooldings are next. These consist of turns of 2½" line wrapped around the mast at intervals. (2½" is the line circumference, not diameter.) Their depth is 1' 0", and they are retained by wood hoops, 1½" wide, above and below. There is a trick to securing the wooldings neatly, as shown here.

14.6 Standing rigging color Wooldings are considered part of the standing rigging. Standing rigging, as the name implies, are ropes and cables that are not usually shifted. They are normally protected from the elements by tarring. There has been much discussion on the color of tarred line. The tar used was Stockholm tar, a vegetable product (not pitch, which is mineral in origin). Pitch is black in color but Stockholm tar, derived from pine resin, is brown. Many model-makers opt to show standing rigging in black. However, I use a dark brown similar to burnt umber in color. It is a matter of personal preference as to whether you wish to imitate the real thing or show a more stylized appearance to your rigging. However, you will need to make that decision at this early stage.

14.7 Woolding hoops Woolding hoops are awkward to make from wood. I used strips of card instead, painted with acrylic to match the wood used on my masts. Wrap the strip more than once around the spar and, using a very sharp scalpel blade, make an almost invisible butt joint by cutting through the two overlapping layers together. After gluing down, a small dab of paint will conceal any slight imperfection at the joint line. 11

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, pages 22 to 26 (Sweetman pages 26-31).

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

14.8 Lower mast caps The mast caps can be made next. These are quite straightforward. In the full-sized ships, particularly large ones, the caps were often made in two halves dovetailed vertically together along the centerline. If your caps indicate this, they should be bolted through athwartships fore, aft and between the holes for the masts. Careful marking out will take care of the sloping mortise for the lower mast tenon. Make the circular hole slightly oversized to allow for fine adjustment of the topmast later on. A refinement not usually shown on models is the leathering of the circular hole for the topmast. I did this by cutting a circle of suitable diameter in a piece of Scotch® brand Magic tape to act as a mask. I then painted tan-colored "tabs" on the upper surface of the cap to represent the leathering, using acrylic paint (photograph above right). If you are going to fully rig your model, make sure that the eyebolts on the cap are firmly secured. However, do not fit the caps permanently to the masts until the lower standing rigging is completed!

14.9 Lower mast trestle trees Trestle trees are straightforward to make. Their shape is shown in Steel’s Plate 5.12 If you do not have a suitable sparring plan, their size can be calculated for your own ship using Steel’s proportions. Note that the trestle trees are scored on their inner surfaces to fit around the base of the masthead. Their distance apart is equal to that of the given diameter of the topmast. Make sure that, if the mast rakes, the trestle trees are horizontal when viewed from the side. You can add the iron plates that take the weight and wear of the topmast and its fid. A fid is an iron bar or key that is passed through a slot in the topmast heel, retaining the mast in its raised position. There are two bolts securing the trestle trees to the mast. Refer to section 17.7 about installing a span between the foremast trestle trees now. It will be very difficult to add this later on, as I discovered! Another span is needed for the gaff throat halliard on the mizzen trestle trees (see section 18.48). Again, I would suggest that you make and install this now. Begin with about a 12' 0" length of served 2" strop. For details, refer to section 18.48.

Ibid, Plate 5, top, center (Sweetman Plate VI, rear pocket).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

14.10 Lower mast cross trees These are scored into the trestle trees and are quite straightforward to make. However, make sure that when assembled with the trestle trees that everything is perfectly square and accurately made, or you will have difficulty later on when fitting the tops. The top is a large platform resting on the frame formed by the trestle and cross trees. There is a bolt through each joint of the cross and trestle trees.

14.11 Chocks Chocks are rectangular blocks of wood acting as spacers between the lower and top masts at the level of the trestle and cross trees. The topmast will pass through the remaining gap, which should be square (photograph below right). If forgotten, chocks will be very awkward to add later on.

14.12 Bolsters Bolsters are quarter round lengths of wood fitted over the trestle trees. These soften the angle that the shrouds would otherwise take as they turn downward towards the channels. The bolsters are slightly wider than the trestle trees, so that the shrouds will not rub against the latter (photograph opposite right).

14.13 Masthead battens There are eight battens to each masthead, two on each face. These battens ease the bend of the shrouds and stays as they loop over the masthead. It is fussy work to cut or file grooves into the underside of each batten to fit around the iron head hoops. The upper ends of the battens are snaped off , i.e. cut at an angle (photograph top opposite). This completes the work on the lower masts, unless you wish to blacken the mastheads. One can use paint, but I used black shoe dye. Mask

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

off the mast at the lower end of the hounds. If the grain of the wood you are using is suspect, knife in a line at the limit of the black area to act as a stop. Apply the dye by brush or Q-tip® and allow it to dry. Repeat this two or three times until the degree of blackening you wish is acquired. Buff with a soft cloth. Delay installation of the tops until the lower mast standing rigging has been completed. One more item! The collar for the main topmast preventer stay (section 16.10) is more easily fitted to the fore mast now than later in the rigging process.

14.14 Fore and main topmasts Topmasts are an interesting challenge to make. They are raised by passing them up through the lower trestle trees and cap, so the topmast in its entirety must be smaller than the hole in the trestletrees. They have, from the lower end up, an octagonal section, a square, an octagon again, a round section, another tapered octagon and, finally, a square upper section with a tenon on top. Part of the challenge is to make the transitional areas sharp or gradual as required. The other part of the challenge is to cut several sheave holes neatly through the mast. Unlike the lower masts, allowance does not need to be made for a tenon at the foot. All the dimensions are, again, proportional. Many ships carried spare topmasts in the waist, so you may wish to make two extra topmasts, the size of the main topmast, to add to your model. The main topmast is 3/5 the length of its lower mast.13 The fore topmast’s length is 8/9 of that of the main topmast. The given diameters of both fore and main topmasts are calculated at 1" for every yard (3' 0") of the fore topmast’s length. The length of the fore and main topmast heads are 4" for every yard in length. The hounds are 3/5 of this length. The diminishing diameters of the topmasts, given as fractions of the given diameter, are as follows:

All dimensions quoted are from Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 39 (Sweetman page 45).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

st 1 quarter 2nd quarter 3rd quarter Lower end of head Upper end of head

60/61 14/15 6/7 9/13 6/11

Once again, an accurately drafted drawing is the basis for a good result. One of my dictums is, if you can’t draw it, you can’t make it. From the drawing, determine the length and maximum square dimension for your stick. Cut the blank to size. As before, mark out the profile of the mast on one face and cut it to shape. Turn the stick 90°, re-mark the profile and cut it out to four-square shape. Next, mark the eight-square and round sections using your octagonal 7:10:7 scale.The transition from octagon to square at the base of the topmast is tricky to cut. Place the stick in your jig on the diagonal and carefully cut along the line down to the octagon, but not beyond it, with a razor saw (photograph at left). Then, using your chisel, pare down each diagonal of the octagon until you reach the mark-out line (photographs at left). Using a similar technique, cut the transition point from round to octagon at the hounds with the razor saw. Cut the tapered octagonal hounds first. You should find that, if you’ve been accurate, the diagonal faces of the octagon should meet the corners of the masthead. Next cut the octagon below the hounds, being careful to scoop the cut up at the transition point where the octagon meets the square section near the base of the mast (photographs opposite, top).

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

Mark in the junctions of the round section of the mast with the octagonal ones again. Before rounding off, drill and cut the sheave holes. It is easy to clamp the mast in its jig and drill the holes using a drill press at this stage. Once rounded off, securing the mast accurately at 45° to drill it would be very difficult. There are two sheave holes that run diagonally through the mast in opposite directions, one above and one below the square section, plus a rectangular hole that runs athwartships for the fid (photograph at right). The hole for the fid may be filed out or broached to its rectangular shape after drilling. Check carefully to mark out the correct diagonal orientation of each sheave. You can either drill two holes at the extremities of the sheaves and then fake the actual sheaves by carving and filing them or drill several holes through the mast and open them up into slots. Subsequently you can make and fit working sheaves. The rounded section of the mast can now be completed in the same way as the lower masts. Be particularly careful where these sections transition into the octagonal ones to make them symmetrical on all sides (photographs above and overleaf ). To complete the topmasts, cut the tenons for the caps as you did for the lower masts. If you are not leaving the masts in natural wood, the appropriate sections of the topmast may be blackened. Either paint them or use leather dye. The advantage of using dye is that there is no build-up of paint and hiding of any detail. Mask and knife in the limits of the black section at the lower end of the hounds carefully. You can be less fastidious about the lower end, as the lower mast cap will conceal the transition line. Make, but do not yet fix, the cheek blocks that will be attached to the sides of the main and fore topmast heads after the topmasts are in place (see section 18.15).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

14.15 Mizzen topmasts The mizzen topmast is similar to the others, except that there is no octagonal section below the heeling. The mizzen topmast’s length is ¾ that of the main topmast. The diameter is 7/10 that of the main topmast. The length of the head is 3½" for every yard in length. Small ships usually carried no mizzen topgallant mast; instead the upper end of the topmast was extended above the hounds in a pole head. The pole head may be thought of simply as a flagpole. If this is the case, the pole section is 3⅔ times the length of the hounds.14 The pole tapers at the top to 2/3 of the diameter at the stop. The upper end is tenoned to fit the truck (see section 14.19). There are two sheave holes cut through the pole fore-and-aft.15 The first is cut one and half times its diameter above the stop. The staysail halliard will run through this sheave. The other sheave, for the topsail tye, is located half its diameter below the tenon at the pole head. The sheave diameters are equal to the diameter of the pole at that point.

14.16 Topmast caps These are simply smaller versions of the lower mast caps and can be made in the same way. They were made in one piece and are therefore not bolted. Do not permanently secure these until the topmast standing rigging is complete!

14.17 Topmast trestle-trees, cross-trees and bolsters These are somewhat different from their lower mast counterparts in that there are three crosstrees and that they curve aft. Their outboard ends are drilled for the topgallant shrouds to pass through. The dimensions of all the components may be taken from a suitable drawing or calculated. When assembled, the cross-trees sit slightly proud of the trestle-trees (photograph above).

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 16 (Sweetman page 36).

Ibid, page 30 (Sweetman page 36).

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

There are also bolsters fitted for easing the shrouds. Their undersides are scored for the crosstrees, so that they sit flush on top of the trestle-trees. There are also iron plates fitted to the trestle-trees to take the fids for the topgallant masts. Remember to add the angled sheaves in the aft ends of the fore topmast trestletrees (see section 24.3) and fore ends of the main topmast trestletrees.

14.18 Topgallant masts Proportions of topgallant masts were half the length of their respective topmasts and 1" in diameter for every yard in length. The mast head length, if royal masts were fitted – although unlikely in this time period – was 3½" per yard of overall length. The hounds’ length is 3/5 the length of the mast head. The various diameters at different quarters and of the mast head are similar to those of the topmasts; refer to the table in section 14.14. The only complication is the length of the pole head. This is the portion of the topgallant mast above the hounds. There were three different lengths; the stump pole, common pole and long pole heads respectively. The stump pole head is the length of the mast head below, the common pole is 7/18 the length of the topgallant mast as measured from heel to stop, and long pole is 2/3 the length to the stop.16 I imagine most ships carried either a stump or common pole head. Once again, an accurate drawing from which to construct the masts is a necessity. Topgallant masts are cut and shaped by the same methods as topmasts, which they somewhat resemble. Remember to drill the sheaves while the stick is still eight-square. There is a small square tenon cut in the mast head for the truck (photograph below right).

14.19 Mast trucks The top of each pole carries a truck. This is elegantly described by Steel as an “oblate spheroid” – in other words, a flattened ball. This truck has a square mortise to fit the tenon on the top of the pole. On either side of the truck are two very small sheaves for the flag halliards. These are best drilled and filed at such a small size, rather than trying to fit real sheaves.

Ibid, Volume I, page 16 (Sweetman page 36).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Important: Do not permanently fix the trucks until you have assembled the masts, threaded the topgallants through the topmast caps and completed all the rigging, as the truck will be too wide to pass through the hole in the cap or to loop the shrouds, stays or strops over! If you were to make the shroud and stay bights (loops) large enough to pass over the trucks, they will slip down past the stops of the hounds.

14.20 The bowsprit The bowsprit was considered a mast too, although it differs in many ways from the other masts that you have already made. Study a drawing of it and make sure that the given diameter is marked at the point where the bowsprit passes between the bollard timbers. Note that the spar is not round in section all the way to the outer end, but the upper surface is flat, as are the sides at right angles to it, down to the maximum diameter. The tenon at the heel will need to be modified in shape to fit the step on your model. Start with the usual four-square shaping of the stick. Very carefully mark the outer end where the squared section begins. Eight-square the stick from this point down. Be very careful at the transition points from round to square. Chamfer off only the lower square edges. Test-fit the bowsprit to your model until it is an easy fit between the bollard timbers and beds all the way into its step. With the bowsprit in place, mark the tenon at its outer end, taking care that the shoulders are absolutely vertical. This will ensure that the bowsprit cap will sit straight up-and-down later on. A bowsprit cap and jackstaff that are at an angle as viewed from the side are not a pretty sight! The jackstaff is a pole attached to the cap that the Union flag, often called the Jack, is raised on. When you are satisfied that all is as it should be, remove the bowsprit. Carefully cut the tenon for the cap. Make sure that the tenon is square to the upper surface of the outer end of the bowsprit. If it is not, the cap and jibboom will slew to one side, and the jackstaff will also be off-vertical, as seen from ahead. The jibboom is a spar analogous to a topmast and extends forward from the bowsprit.

14.21 The bees To complete the bowsprit, there are several cleats and fittings to take care of. The largest and most visible of these are the bees. Originally shaped like a capital "B" in plan view in the 16th and 17th centuries – hence the name – the bees are horizontal planks fitted either side at the outer end of the bowsprit (photograph opposite, top). Each has two slots cut through, so that lines can pass through to the sheaves fitted below. These slots form the bowls or counterspaces of the letter "B".

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

In earlier days the bees were fitted at an angle to form a shallow "V" as seen from ahead. However, by the time period of the Swan class, the bees were set horizontally. On each side below the bees is a block of wood that forms the bee block (photograph below right). Essentially, this is the shell of a sister block. Curiously, only one sheave hole on each side is actually fitted with a sheave. The port side sheave is under the foremost slot, and the starboard side has a sheave under the aft slot. Note that the forward ends of the bees and bee blocks are cut to the same angle as the shoulder of the bowsprit tenon. The inner part of the forward faces of the bees will abut the bowsprit cap once this is made and fitted.

14.22 Bowsprit woolding, sling cleat and jibboom saddle Aft of the bees is a woolding, which is fitted in exactly the same way as those on the lower masts. Aft of this is a small semi-circular cleat or stop for the spritsail yard slings. The slings are the rope suspension for the spritsail yard that is rigged below the bowsprit. To prevent wear on the bowsprit, a sheet of lead is nailed to the upper half-circumference of the spar immediately forward of the stop. Moving further aft, the next fitting is the saddle for the heel of the jibboom to rest on. The saddle top is cut to accommodate the eight-square section of the jibboom. These items are usually detailed on spar plans. All these features can be seen in the photograph above.

14.23 The bowsprit cap This item needs to be marked and cut out very carefully. Unlike the mast caps, where everything is at right angles, the holes, upper and lower surfaces are all angled. The first step is to measure the angle or steeve of the bowsprit to the vertical. If you have a drill press and adjustable angled sub-table, set this angle on the table. If not, cut an angled block of wood to fix to the drill press table instead. Cut out an oversized piece of stock the thickness of the cap. Mark the aft face for the two holes. Fix this to the jig or sub-table so that the long axis is parallel to the slope. Drill the jibboom hole first. Use a center punch so that your drill bit will not deflect or "wander" down

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

the slope. Drill the hole in increasing sizes until you reach the diameter you need. Don’t attempt to drill it in one pass! Now drill a pilot hole in the same way for the mortise. After removing the drilled blank, cut the long sides parallel to width. Remember that both holes are offset from center so that there is more wood to starboard. This is to accommodate the jackstaff. Turn the piece on edge and carefully mark out the mortise. Carry these lines across fore and aft faces of your workpiece (illustration at right). Now mark the vertical limits of the mortise. You can carefully chisel out the hole using a very narrow mortising chisel or file. Repeatedly test-fit the mortise to the tenon on the bowsprit until it fits snugly down all the way to the shoulder of the tenon, the bees and bee blocks. Double-check to ensure that the cap sits exactly vertically as seen from both the side and ahead. Mark the fore face of the cap on the bowsprit tenon and trim it back to the appropriate angle. Once satisfied that all is as it should be, carefully gouge or file out the semi-circular hollow groove for the jackstaff on the aft face of the cap. File a corresponding semi-circular hole in the fore end of the starboard bee. This will form the step for the jackstaff. All that remains to be done to complete the bowsprit cap is to fit it with the various eyebolts and a capsquare to retain the jackstaff. Finally, trim off the bowsprit tenon vertically just ahead of the cap. I should tell the following anecdote against myself. I was somewhat dissatisfied with my bowsprit cap, but had decided that "it would do." However, my conscience kept nagging me that the cap was less than perfect. One day I had a photographer come to the workshop. While setting up he accidentally brushed the end of the jibboom with his elbow. There was a resounding "snap". The man almost fainted. The jibboom fortunately remained intact, but the imperfect cap had split completely in half, the two pieces flying off into the corners of the room. He was completely mystified and confused when, instead of becoming upset or angry, I thanked him profusely for having done this. The replacement cap, needless to say, is perfect!

14.24 The saddle There is a semi-circular fairlead, the saddle, which sits across the bowsprit a little way ahead of the gammoning. This allows rigging controlling the spritsail and jib to run inboard without fouling. There are seven or more holes through this fitting. All run at the appropriate angle parallel to the long axis of the bowsprit. The block that you cut for drilling the bowsprit cap can be used again

CHAPTER FOU RTEEN

to drill holes at the correct angle. However, first cut the lower face of the saddle on an oversized blank of correct thickness so that it sits snugly on the bowsprit. Ensure that is vertical as viewed from the side. Next, mark and drill the holes in the blank. Roughly shape the upper surface, remembering that it is angled, then fix the saddle permanently to the bowsprit. It is much easier to finish shaping this once it is in place, using sanding sticks.

14.25 Gammoning cleats To position the cleats correctly, fit the bowsprit in place. Take a length of thread and pass it through the gammoning slot in the knee of the head. Make sure it sits at the aft end of the slot. Pass the thread through the headwork and loop it over the bowsprit, keeping the thread vertical as viewed from the side. Carefully mark the elliptical line of the thread over the bowsprit. This line defines the fore ends of the cleats. Although the first turn of gammoning will run from the fore end of the gammoning slot to wrap around the bowsprit at the cleats (see section 15.7), subsequent turns will push the line tightly against the cleats, as seen in the photograph above. There are always an odd number of cleats: from five to nine, depending on the size of bowsprit. The outermost ones are set at about 9 and 3 o’clock to the uppermost one, as viewed axially along the bowsprit. Make the central cleat first. As you add cleats progressively on either side, you will see that the fore faces are cut at increasing angles that correspond with the elliptical layout line. The idea is that the aftermost turn of gammoning sitting against the cleats is not cut into by the edge of any cleat (photograph above).

14.26 Finishing the bowsprit All that remains to be done is to fit an iron hoop to the heel of the bowsprit. Once again, the hoop can be made of blackened copper, softened brass or card. As the heel of the spar tapers from the partners, the additional thickness of the hoop should easily clear the bollard timbers as you slide the bowsprit home.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

14.27 The jibboom This spar is octagonal at the heel and tapers to its outer end, where there is an angled stop with a shoulder. There are two sheave holes; one near the head and the other near the heel. There is also a round hole for the heel lashing or crupper at the lower end of the spar. The heel lashing, which passes around the bowsprit, prevents the jibboom from sliding inboard. This spar may be laid out on a stick from a suitable drawing and shaped in the usual way. The construction of yards, booms and flagstaffs will be discussed later on.

14.28 Addendum to the hull fittings If you have followed the sequence of construction in Volumes I and II, mention of eyebolts fitted to the fore sides of the catheads were omitted. There are either two or one per side, depending on whether a sprit topsail yard is fitted to the jibboom. These eyebolts are mounted parallel to the long axis of the cathead. It will make things easier if you make and fit these before proceeding. I made the eyebolts from ¾" diameter blackened brass wire with an inside diameter of 2". Also required is a small cleat fitted to the upper surface of each cathead, close to the planksheer rail. It will also be helpful to add five small cleats on each side of the bowsprit, inside the bulwark, for the various running rigging lines to the sails to belay to. (See the belaying plan in the rear pocket of this book.) Additionally, three or four eyebolts in the deck on either side of the foot of the mizzen mast will be required for belaying purposes.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

aving completed the lower masts and spars, the lower standing rigging can be begun. In order to rig, suitable line in various diameters must be laid up. To do this, one will require some form of rope-making machine or ropewalk. There are various designs of ropewalk on the market. I have also seen some very ingenious and incredibly complicated machines made by inventive model-makers. However, a simple set-up will also produce first-class line. For many years I used a set-up made from my childhood Meccano set and an 0-gauge Hornby railway wagon. I have recently upgraded this ropewalk to include sleeve bearings and other refinements, but the original brass Meccano gears are still working well and show little signs of wear.

15.1 The ropewalk There are two major components to a ropewalk. The first is the headstock (photograph at right). If one is right-handed, this is fixed to the right hand end of the workbench. It contains three or four whorls: These are hooks that spin on horizontal shafts. They are geared together in such a way that all the hooks rotate in the same direction at the same speed. The intermediate gearing is a step-up one. The central "sun" gear has many more teeth than the smaller "planet" gears attached to the whorls. The shaft of my sun gear attaches directly to a small reversing, variable speed electric drill. This allows for the necessary clockwise and anticlockwise motion. A small refinement is a tension equalizing device. Each hook is attached to a collar containing a grub-screw. These collars ride on the whorls’ shafts. This allows adjustment of the hooks along the axis of the shaft to increase or decrease the tension on different yarns as necessary. The extra fourth whirl is parked, out of gear, below. You can see the sleeve bearings for the four-whirl arrangement that the machine can be adapted to, when required. The second major component is a tailstock (photograph overleaf ). The tailstock unit is free to slide on its waxed lower surface along the bench from the left-hand end. (Many ropewalks run the tailstock on tracks, or have other refinements that I have found unnecessary.) The tailstock has a

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

single, central hook in line with the sun wheel shaft of the headstock. This hook rotates on a shaft carrying a small gear wheel. In turn, it is connected to a large gear on a secondary shaft attached to a handle. The handle can be locked or allowed to turn as required. The tailstock also incorporates a small platform for brass blocks that act as weights. The other essential component of the ropewalk is a top. This is a small, conical piece of wood. It has either three or four smooth longitudinal grooves, well waxed, depending on whether one is making three or four-stranded rope. Originally I used a bullet-shaped top as described by Longridge,17 but this never worked well. Later I came across an old photograph of a real ropewalk in action (it was either at Chatham or Portsmouth). The top in use was clearly conical in shape and the grooves deepen to almost meet at the narrow end (illustration below). After replacing the top with one of similar design, I had no more difficulties as friction was presumably reduced. Some designs show the top suspended from an overhead wire or cable, but mine is simply mounted at the height of the axis of the ropewalk on a wooden rod. The rod is attached to a light wooden base to prevent the top from rotating. With such a set-up one can produce line of any kind needed to rig a model. The only disadvantage is the limited length of line one can produce. I can make about 5' 0" of line without an assistant. Othewise the limit is the bench length. There are other more complex machines that can spin almost unlimited lengths of line,18 but these involve a greater complexity and sophistication of engineering than the design described above.

15.2 Materials for spinning rope There are several choices available to the model maker. The traditional material is linen thread. This has the advantage of longevity but comes undyed. Also, recent sources of linen thread are C.N. Longridge, The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships, Percival Marshall, London 1955, and more recent reprints, page 207 and Plate 67. 17

An example is a prototype by the late Tom Nance, Ships in Scale, Vol. XIV, No. 5, September 2003, pages 50-54.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

very inconsistent in quality, having slubs or lumps at irregular intervals. Slubs will make your rope lay up unevenly and render the length of line useless. However, if you can find a source of quality vintage linen thread, this will be ideal. Another choice is silk. Like linen, high quality silk will last for hundreds of years, but inferior silk can rot fairly quickly. Therefore, unless certain of the quality, it is probably better to avoid this material. Also to be avoided are synthetic threads. The most readily available material is cotton thread. It comes in many colors and different weights, ready-dyed. This avoids the lengthy and messy process of dying one’s own line. Cotton will lengthen and contract with changes in humidity, but waxing the line can minimize this. The traditional wax used for this is beeswax. However, some authorities object to beeswax, as it is not pH-neutral and may hasten deterioration of the rigging. A microcrystalline conservators’ or museum wax will obviate this drawback. A variety of waxes of different consistencies are available from conservators’ supply houses.

15.3 The anatomy of rope In order to understand the process of spinning rope, it is necessary to know how rope is made up (illustration at right). A rope is formed from three or four strands. Each strand is composed of fibers. These fibers are twisted in one direction to make yarn and the yarns then twisted in the opposite direction to form strands. Strands are then twisted in the opposite direction again to form rope. These twists in opposing directions counteract each other. If the rope’s torsional energy is well balanced, the rope will not unravel when cut. Cable is made of three or four strands of rope. Again, it is laid up or twisted in the opposite direction from the component ropes’ lay. Usually the yarn strands are laid up left-handed, rope right-handed and cable left-handed. Thread from the reel is usually laid right-handed (Z) rather than left-handed (S), where the middle stroke of the letter represents the twist. This means, that to make right-handed rope from this material, you will have to begin by un-laying and re-laying the thread. I will describe the stages of making a basic right-hand laid rope.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

15.4 Laying right-hand rope Depending on the diameter of rope required, the number of strands will vary. You will therefore need to make up rope with differing numbers of threads – the yarns – in each strand. I recommend that you build up a sample library (photograph at right). To begin, make up your first sample using two threads per strand. Prevent the tailstock from moving by placing a weight in front of it or temporarily clamping it near the left end of the bench, assuming that you are right-handed. Tie the end of the thread to the hook on the tailstock. Run the thread up to one of the headstock hooks, around it, and back to the tailstock hook. Repeat this around the other two headstock hooks (assuming that you are making a three-strand rope), then cut and tie off the thread securely around all the other threads at the tailstock hook. Next, to adjust and equalize the tension in all the threads, release the tailstock and tug it gently against the resistance of the threads a few times. This maneuver will only work with even numbers of threads on each whorl; for odd numbers you will need to tie off each set of threads. In the latter case you will need to adjust tension by moving the hooks and collars along their shafts at the headstock. Now insert the top at the tailstock end with its narrow end facing the tailstock. Make sure that each set of threads sits nicely in its respective groove. Load some weight on the tailstock platform. The load will depend on the number of threads; the greater the number, the more weight will be required. Now start the headstock motor, turning in the direction that will lay up the threads lefthanded. If the thread has a right-handed lay, it will un-lay at first and then re-lay left-handed. In the latter case, put some tension on the tailstock by hand so that the threads do not slacken and sag as they initially unwind. As the threads begin to lay up, they will begin to shorten. You will see the tailstock begin to move towards the headstock. The weights should be sufficient to keep the threads under tension but not so much as to either prevent the tailstock from moving or from snapping the threads. Allow the threads to "wind up" as the tailstock moves forward, dragging the top with it. Run the headstock until the threads have shortened by about 10 to 12% of their original length. I have a tape mark on the bench to show me when the tailstock reaches that point. If the tailstock hook has a tendency to turn during this operation, lock it in position.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

Now switch off headstock motor and move to the tailstock end of the ropewalk. Unlock the tailstock if necessary; then begin to turn it. Make sure you keep a good tension on the rope. Check that you are winding the hook to form rope in a right-handed direction! As you turn, the top will begin to move toward the headstock, the rope forming in its wake. If the top does not move smoothly, wind the handle a few turns and move the top along manually, repeating as necessary. Eventually the top will be expelled at the headstock end. Fix the tailstock from moving. Now, holding the rope at the point where the three strands separate, cut the threads loose from their whorls. Tie all the threads together over one of the headstock hooks. Although the rope is formed, it will still tend to unravel if cut loose at this stage. It needs further treatment. The rope now requires the final process of hardening. (Note: for making up cable, do not harden the ropes you will use.) Hardening requires placing considerable tension on the rope, stretching it out to its elastic limit. This is done by pulling steadily on the tailstock until the rope stops extending. Hold the tension for a few moments and then gently release. The rope should sag to the bench in a soft curve. When cut loose from the hooks at both ends, if properly made and hardened, rope will not "snake" and twist, nor will the cut ends unravel. You have produced your first sample of rope.

15.5 Laying left-handed cable To make cable, you need three or four lengths of right-handed rope. The process of laying it up is similar, but not identical, to rope-making. As you did for the threads, attach the ropes to the head and tailstock and insert the top at the tailstock end. This time run the headstock motor for a few revolutions to tighten the lay of the rope. Now release the tailstock hook and wind it to form left-handed cable. More tension is required to spin cable than rope. When the top has reached the headstock and been expelled, the remaining steps are the same as for rope, with one suggested modification. Stretch the cable to its elastic limit and fix it there. Take a damp rag and wet down the cable while it remains on the stretch. Let it dry thoroughly before cutting it loose. You should now have a length of cable that will not unravel. Make up a sample set of lines, as suggested, with different numbers of threads. Table I, following page, gives a conversion table from line circumference to diameter. In old documents and books, line (the generic term for rope) was always measured and specified by circumference, not diameter. The third column of the table indicates the circumference of a cable when made from three strands of rope of the diameter given in the second column. The second to last column is

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

an approximate diameter of cable for the circumference quoted. The last column is the clearance drill size for a given diameter of line to reeve through a block. Table I Rope circumf. Rope diameter

Cable circumf. Cable diameter (3 strands of rope)

# drill size for blocks (rope only)

1" ⅜" - - 78 2" ⅝" 4½" 1⅜" 76 3" 1" 5½" 1¾" 70 4" 1¼" 7" 2¼" 65 5" 1⅝" 9½" 3" 57 6" 1⅞" 11" 3½" 55 7" 2¼" 14⅛" 4½" 8" 2½" 15¾" 4⅞" 9" 2⅞" - - 10" 3¼" - - -

15.6 Lower mast standing rigging Having mastered the art of rope-making, you are now ready to begin the process of rigging the lower masts. Steel describes a progressive method of rigging ships,19 the sequence that he recommended a real ship be rigged. We will follow this scheme, but with some deviation from full-size practice, as this will facilitate rigging a model. Most of the sizes of line and blocks are taken from Steel’s extensive tables in Volume II,20 which specify size, quantities and hardware required for every line in every class of ship, both naval and merchant vessels. If you have no experience of basic knots and splices, please familiarize yourself with them as a number of these are used in the rigging process. Even if you do not use a specific knot or splice, you will still need to know their appearance in order to simulate them. There are many resources available, either on the Internet or in library books, such as Ashley. 21 19

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, pages 194-208 (Sweetman pages 150-193).

Ibid, Volume II, tabular pages 121 to 130 pertain to 14-gun and 16-gun ship-rigged sloops (Sweetman, pages 233258, for 18 to 14 guns, with some variations). Line lengths in Steel’s tables are always quoted in fathoms. A fathom measures 6' 0". Particularly for running rigging, this is where the line lengths quoted in the text are derived from. 20

Clifford Ashley, Ashley’s Book of Knots, New York, 1944, and many reprintings.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

15.7 Bowsprit gammoning Please note that all line sizes quoted in this volume are for a sixth rate ship-rigged sloop. For specifications of rigging for other rates or classes of ship, you will need to consult a copy of Steel’s tables.22 Also, the sequence of rigging is one I have found suitable for myself. It differs somewhat from that given by other authors and is not the same sequence as used in full-sized rigging practice. The gammoning is of 4½" tarred line. (Remember this is the line circumference; its diameter is about 1½". Refer to Table I, previous page.) You will need a good length of this. About 56" (actual length) is required for a 1:48 model. As for other standing rigging, this line is tarred. Begin the gammoning by making an eye splice in one end of the line. You can either make a real splice in miniature, or fake it. One way to fake an eye splice is to cut the end of the line at an acute angle using a very sharp scalpel blade. Tease the ends of the yarns apart. Using white glue, the diagonal end of the line is turned back on itself and worked into the line to simulate the splice. Roll the joint between your fingers to set it. After a little practice you will be able to produce reliable faux splices. This strategy works best in small sizes of line. In larger sizes, particularly where stress will be exerted on the splice, a real eye splice may be more reliable. Pass the line through the eye of the splice so that the line hangs down on the port side of the bowsprit (illustration at right, left side). If the headwork of the ship is in place, you will need to thread the line down through this and then pass it through the gammoning slot from port to starboard. The angle of this slot allows the line to slide to its forward end. Let it do so. Thread the line upward though the headwork and pass it over the bowsprit from starboard to port. The second turn will lie over the bowsprit forward of the first turn, the loop of which should be snug against the cleats (illustration at right, right side). The line will cross itself on each succeeding turn.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II, tabular pages 1-147 (Sweetman pages 233-258).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Continue for as many even-numbered turns as will fill the slot. Pass the line over the bowsprit and begin the frapping turns. These are turns of the line around the center of the turns that you have already made. They pull the gammoning in, increasing the tension that is exerted downward on the bowsprit. When actual ships were rigged, a heavy weight such as a ship’s boat was suspended from the outer end of the bowsprit before the gammoning was put on. Much of the ship’s standing rigging, pulling upward on the bowsprit, will depend on the stability provided by the gammoning. To begin the frapping turns, take the line downwards then pass it between the two sides of the gammoning from forward to aft. Put a half hitch around the port side gammoning turns, about halfway down, and continue around the starboard side from forward to aft. Continue making cross-turns, pulling in the sides of the gammoning toward each other. When you have the same number of cross turns as vertical turns, finish off by passing the line down through the last two turns and pulling it tight in a half-hitch. Trim the line to complete things neatly.

15.8 Preparing collars for the bowsprit The next order of business is to prepare the various collars that go around the bowsprit for the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds and fore stays. The bobstays, as well as the gammoning, exert a downward pull on the bowsprit; the shrouds give it lateral stability. The fore stays will support the lower fore mast. Collars consist of either hearts or deadeyes retained by loops of rope. A closed heart is a block of wood shaped somewhat like a stirrup with a central hole and a groove around the outer periphery (illustration at right). An open heart is U-shaped, as also shown (far right). The rope loops that encircle the blocks are called strops or straps and are usually served. Serving is a process where the rope is wound all over with small diameter line as a covering to prevent chafing and to protect the rope from the elements. The collars around the bowsprit are (from the inner end of the bowsprit forward): inner bobstay collar, starboard bowsprit shroud, port bowsprit shroud, fore stay collar, outer bobstay collar and the fore preventer stay collar.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

15.9 Inner bobstay collar and heart Start with the inner bobstay collar. This holds a 6" closed heart. The collar is of 5" line that is served all over. It has an eye splice at each end, the heart seized in the center of this line. There is a lashing that runs between the two eyes that secures the collar around the bowsprit (illustration at right). Hearts, as every other item, are made to specific proportions. Their thickness is usually twice the diameter of the stay. In this case, the bobstays are of 5" line with a diameter of 1⅝" (see Table I). Therefore the heart will be 3¼" thick. If its given dimension is 6", it will be 6" long and three quarters of this in width, i.e. 4½" (illustration, lower right). I cut my blocks and hearts from boxwood. After shaping them, I chose to dye them. I use a mid-brown shoe dye; this works well for me. This dye is alcohol-based and does not raise the grain of the wood. Once dyed and dried, I polish the blocks with a little conservators’ wax. This deepens the color and gives a slight but pleasing sheen to the blocks. Spin a length of 5" line for the collar. Take a piece of thin string to find out the length you will need to form the collar in such a way that when wrapped around the heart and the bowsprit, the two eyes do not quite meet. Take your 5" line and mark this length on it a few inches from the end. Do not cut it to length yet! You will need to serve the line first.

15.10 Serving lines To efficiently serve all the lines on a ship that require it, a serving machine of some kind is required. You can either make your own, or there are several commercial ones available.23 I use a ready-made serving machine.

One such machine is available from Ship Ahoy Models and Miniatures, Boston, MA, (781) 231-0212.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

You can easily construct one using four gears of equal size (illustration at right). The principal is that a length of line can be held at both ends and that the holding fixtures rotate at the same speed. As the line rotates, the serving is wound on, preferably in a direction opposite to the lay of the line. It is helpful to have hollow shafts to the machine so that for long lengths of line one can feed it though, section by section, as serving progresses.

15.11 Inner bobstay collar, continued Secure the marked line for the collar on your serving machine. To serve it, use thread of suitable size and color. Wrap one end of the thread around the line at the beginning mark and fix it with a spot of white glue. Leave the end of the thread long for the moment; it will be useful later on. When the glue has set, begin turning the line. To feed the serving on neatly, keep slight tension on the thread (I let it run between my finger and thumb) and let the thread ‘trail’ behind the point where it winds on by about 5° to the line. This ensures a tight and even lay. Wind until you reach the second mark. Again, a small dab of glue will secure the last couple of turns. Cut the thread, leaving the second end long. Remove the line from the machine and, with a very sharp scalpel blade, cut the line on the diagonal just beyond the serving at each end. Bend one end of the served line around to form the first eye. Wetting the line and its serving at the bend will help make it pliable. Glue the diagonal cut end to the side of the strop. Once the glue has set, you can wrap the long end of the serving around the joint, applying a little glue as you go. This trick will be almost invisible if neatly done, and the eye will be surprisingly

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

strong. Repeat this at the other end of the collar. (For a strop without service, cut the ends of the line to be "spliced" and fray open the ends slightly. Cut across the yarns diagonally and whiteglue the ends, rolling the joint between your fingers. This should result, with a bit of practice, in a neat tapered false splice). Note that the open heart shown (photographs opposite) is for the fore stay collar and has a double strop. Next, secure the heart in the collar. Bend the collar in half to find its center and wrap the collar around the groove in the heart (lower photograph, previous page). Again, wetting the collar will help make it pliable. Using a slightly thicker thread for the seizing (Steel specifies ¾" line 24), wrap a number of round turns on just under the heart. It is helpful to use a small needle for this operation. Complete the seizing with two cross turns, hitch and glue the end, then trim off the excess thread. The heart should now sit securely in the bight (loop) of the collar. All that remains to be done is to lash the collar between its two eyes around the bowsprit. The inner bobstay collar sits about halfway between the figure and the bowsprit cap. To prevent it slipping down, two small stop cleats are fixed to each side of the bowsprit (photograph at right). The lashing is of 1" line 2 5 and is begun with an eye splice around one eye of the collar. Several turns are taken through each eye in turn (using a needle makes this easier to do) and finished with a number of cross turns. The lashing should sit on top of the bowsprit with the heart beneath it. The other collars required for the bowsprit will be made in a similar manner.

15.12 The bowsprit shroud collars These are similar to the bobstay collar. They are oriented one with a closed heart to starboard (aft) and the other to port (forward). These abut the inner bobstay collar and each other, so do not require cleats (see photograph above). In some ships, both hearts were seized to a single collar, starboard and port. The choice of method is up to the master rigger.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II table, page 121 (Sweetman page 236).

Ibid, Volume II table, page 121 (Sweetman page 236).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The hearts are 6" in size and the collar line 3½". The collars are served as usual. Each heart is seized so as to orient it diagonally out and down. This means that, if the hearts are seized to separate collars, one leg of the collar will be longer than the other for the lashing to sit on top of the bowsprit. Seizings are ¾" and the lashings 1" as before. These items are made up and applied to the bowsprit in the same way as the bobstay collar.

15.13 The fore stay collar Moving forward, this is the next collar to be applied to the bowsprit. This is a 13" open heart with a 5" four-strand cabled collar that is doubled (photographs on previous spread). The purpose of an open heart is to spread the collar wide enough for the jibboom to slide between its legs. As the fore stay is 9½", the heart’s thickness will work out to be 6" (refer back to section 15.9), and its width about 9". It is shaped as shown (illustration at right). Note that this heart has two semicircular grooves filed in around its sides. In this instance, the collar is a closed loop with its splice sitting on the back of the heart. There are seizings around the legs of the open heart and the collar. The grooves in the sides of the heart retain these seizings. To make the collar, take a length of line of the correct circumference and measure out 27' 0". (Steel specifies 4½ fathoms, a fathom is 6' 0" long.) Serve this length of line as you did before. This time, once released from the serving machine, cut the ends ona long diagonal. Glue the ends of the line together to form a continuous ring. Wind the long ends of the serving, one over the other, gluing them down as you go to strengthen the "splice". Squeeze the ring so that the mocksplice is in the center of one side (photographs on previous spread). Wetting the line at the bends will help here. Ease the collar into the grooves of the heart and seize the heart and collar together, leaving a looped long leg on either side. The seizings are of 1" line. The collar is lashed to the bowsprit with 1½" line 26 that is worked through the ends of the loops in the same way as before. This collar is positioned adjacent to and forward of the port bowsprit shroud collar.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II table, page 122. Unless otherwise stated, all specifications cited in this volume are from this source, tabular pages 12 to 129 (Sweetman pages 233-258). 26

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

15.14 The outer bobstay collar This is next in the sequence working forward. It is identical to the inner bobstay collar in size and construction (see sections 15.9 to 15.11). It is located about 1' 0" forward of the fore stay collar and will also need four cleats fitted to the bowsprit to prevent it moving aft.

15.15 The fore preventer stay collar This is a slightly smaller version of the fore stay collar. In this instance, the heart is 10" long, 7½" wide and 4" thick. The collar is made of 4" four-stranded cable, served as before. Both the seizings and lashing are of 1" line. It sits immediately forward of and against the outer bobstay collar. This is the last collar for the bowsprit.

15.16 The bowsprit horses These are hand-ropes that run parallel to the bowsprit from eyebolts in the top of the bollard timbers to eyes in the upper part of the aft face of the bowsprit cap. They are of 3" line (photograph at right). I made the mistake of knotting these at intervals, as erroneously shown by Lees.27 I later replaced them with regular line. (Only the jibboom horses, acting as angled footropes rather than handropes, are knotted.) The inner ends of the horses have an eye splice worked in them that contain a thimble. Thimbles are grooved rings of iron (see following page). I would recommend delaying fitting these particular lines until later, as there is a netting attached to them. On the real ship the horses were rigged first to facilitate the riggers' work on the bowsprit. The bowsprit horses and their associated netting are described in detail in section 17.2.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 51.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

15.17 Thimbles There are various methods of forming thimbles. My preferred method is as follows. For small ones, such as are required for the bowsprit horses, I take 1/16" diameter brass tubing. Drill a piece of scrap brass plate about 1/16" thick with a hole of the same diameter. Clamp this to a metal surface. Soften the brass tube by heating it to redness and allowing it to air-cool. File the end square and smooth, then insert the tube into the hole in your plate. Make sure that the tube has "bottomed out" on the metal surface below. Cut off the tube flush with the top of the plate using a fine metal-cutting saw blade. File smooth. Extract the ring of brass formed and set it on a steel surface. Place the tip of a center punch into the ring and, keeping the punch vertical, push the plunger two or thee times. This will spread the metal. Turn the ring over and repeat. A flange will form on the outer edges of the ring, creating a semi-circular groove around the outer surface (see illustration, section 15.21). Blacken the brass in the usual way. This method will work for thimbles of any size. You will need to experiment with the calibration of the punch spring to deliver the degree of impact to form even flanges.

15.18 Bobstays The inner and outer bobstays are doubled. They attach between their hearts and the bobstay holes in the knee of the head. Again, the hearts are 6" ones, seized into the loops of the stays, which are of 5" cable (illustration at right). Use a piece of thread to determine the length of each stay. Each should be short enough to allow a laniard to be taken through the hearts and then have cross-turns put on over it. A laniard (or laniard) is a light line that reeves through two hearts or deadeyes. It is used to tighten the stay or shroud in line with it. The bobstays are served all over, so make them up in the same way as you did the forestay collar. Note that one must thread the bobstays through their holes in the knee of the head before splicing their ends together. Seize the hearts into the outer loops of the stays in the usual way with ¾" seizing line. The laniards, of 2½" line, are attached to one heart with an eye splice (real or faux – your choice) and an

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

odd number of turns laid side by side through the eyes of both hearts. Then half-hitch the line around the standing part, make the cross-turns, pass the line through the last two turns and tighten it up. Trim off any excess line. Bobstay legs were usually seized together just forward of the knee of the head in order to clear the figure and minimize wear against the knee (photograph at right). This completes the bobstays.

15.19 Bowsprit shrouds The bowsprit shrouds are added next. There is one each side of the ship. Each is of 4½" line and has a 6" heart eye-spliced in its outer end and a thimble and hook eye-spliced on the inner end (photographs above and below right). Again, use a piece of thread to find their length. The shrouds are served throughout their length. Laniards between the hearts on the collar and shrouds are used to tighten the latter. The laniards hook to eyebolts that were installed above the outer ends of the athwartships arms of the upper cheeks. This completes the standing rigging to the bowsprit. You now have had some experience in most of the basic rigging techniques needed.

15.20 Fore tack blocks The ends of the boomkins carry the fore tack blocks. These are single-sheaved shoulder blocks (illustration at right). For a sixth rate, these blocks are 14" in length. For a description of a method to make blocks, please refer to section 15.38. The strops (Steel calls them straps) of the fore tack blocks are made of 3½" line and are officially 5' 4" long (see Table II, page 66). These need to be long enough to be seized under the block and leave sufficient loop to just be able to pass over the end of the boomkin and sit against its shoulder. The strops are served and spliced in the usual way.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

15.21 Boomkin shrouds There are two boomkin shrouds per side. The fore ones attach by means of laniards to the triangular ringbolts below the figure in the knee of the head. The after ones attach, by thimbles and hooks, to eyebolts in the bow in the wake of the lower cheeks. Eye-splices in the outboard ends of the shrouds are looped over the outer ends of the boomkins. They also secure the strops of the fore tack blocks in place. The boomkin shrouds are of served line. I cannot find any reference in Steel aa to their size, but 3½" line seems about right. Make the thimbles as described in section 15.17 and fit them with hooks shaped as shown (illustration at right). Make eye-splices around the thimbles on the aft shrouds and the 5" hearts on the fore shrouds. Form eye-splices in the other ends of the shrouds just large enough to slip over the outer ends of the boomkins. The aft shrouds are fitted first, passing the eye over the end of the boomkin ensuring it is snug against the strop of the fore tack block. You will need to press the boomkin end slightly aft to slip the hook over the eyebolt in the bow. Now fit the fore shrouds over the boomkin, and eye-splice a 1" laniard to the heart. Pass the laniard through the triangular ringbolt on the knee of the head to place a little tension on the shroud, then complete it in the usual way. This completes standing rigging to the boomkins.

15.22 Burton pendants Burton pendants are served lines that were slipped over the mastheads prior to stepping the lower masts in full-sized practice. Blocks and tackles were then attached to them for hauling up the tops and other items of rigging. They are fitted with thimbles at either end and have a long cut/cont/ cunt splice in the middle that slips over the masthead. (I have given the variations on the name of this splice that you may come across in different texts. Usually the bowdlerized versions are used!) The pendants are of 7" served cable for the fore and main masts and 3½" for the mizzen. The size of the thimbles is not given, but I estimate them to be about 4" or 5" in diameter.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

For a cut splice, I place two lengths of line together as shown (illustration below left). The glued "joints"are hidden under the serving, as shown in the photograph below. The splice should be long enough to comfortably slip over the masthead. These, and all the shrouds, should be rigged before the mast caps are permanently fitted. The pendants should be long enough to hang down about 2' 0" below the hounds.

15.23 The mizzen shrouds The next task is to make up shrouds for the mizzen mast. These are of 4½" cabled line. They were made four-stranded but once made up, it is difficult to distinguish between three- and fourstrand cables, so this is your choice. Mizzen shrouds are made up in pairs. In most Swan class ships there are four shrouds (two pairs) per side, but some ships have an odd number of shrouds per side. If the latter is the case, the foremost shroud is a single one, cut-spliced over the masthead and installed first. Leave the shrouds over-length for the moment. Assuming an even number of shrouds, the first pair is put on to starboard. Before installing the shroud, it will need to be served. The foremost leg of the gang of shrouds is normally served over its full length, except for the mizzen shrouds. A gang is a set of shrouds for a particular mast. The serving protects the shroud from chafing by the lower courses. A course is the large square sail (mainsail or foresail) attached to a lower yard. The mizzen shrouds are excepted as no sail is spread on the cross-jack yard. This serving is also applied to the center quarter of every shroud pair’s length. Shroud gangs were occasionally also wormed for their full length. However, some captains objected to this practice as they felt that it retained moisture in the cable, thus leading to premature rotting. Worming is the process of filling in the grooves between the lines comprising a cable with smaller lines. This was certainly carried out under any serving. There were also canvas strips, applied like a bandage, over the wormed cable and under the serving. This process was called parcelling. These hidden refinements may be omitted on a model. An old rhyme goes: “Worm and parcel with the lay, turn and serve the other way.” A throat seizing (illustrated on the previous spread) is put on below the masthead just below the bolster on that side. This seizing consists of six to ten turns, depending on the rope size, covered with riding turns (one less in number), then two turns between the ropes and crossing over all.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The second pair of shrouds is put over the masthead to port. As each pair is added, wet the bights or loops to assist in molding them around the masthead. Clipping small weights to the loose ends of the shrouds may help. Ensure that each succeeding bight sits above the one below it. Do not let a loop slip down over the one beneath it. Each shroud pair has a round seizing just below and aft of the seizing on the previous pair. When a gang of shrouds has been installed, its appearance at the masthead should resemble that shown (photograph at right). Note that, unlike the photographs, at this stage of rigging neither the top nor the cap should yet be fitted. Mark the end of each shroud at the point where you want to seize in the deadeye. The distance between upper and lower deadeyes varies on contemporary models, but about two to three deadeye diameters apart is about right. After marking the shrouds – allow for some stretching later here – remove them, making sure to label each pair clearly. The deadeyes may now be seized in. I find turning in deadeyes a difficult task. It can be made a little easier by wetting down the shroud in the area of the loop to be formed and molding the line to shape while it is pliable. There are three seizings for each deadeye. The first is applied immediately above the deadeye where the line crosses itself and is called a crossseizing or throat seizing. A number of turns are applied over the crossing. Use a needle to apply the seizing. Note the direction that the shroud crosses itself in (illustration at lower left). If the line is rope-laid this crossing is reversed, or mirror-imaged.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

Make the loop slightly smaller than the deadeye, which will be inserted after the cross-seizing is applied. The line will stretch to accommodate the deadeye. If you do not do this, the deadeye will end up by being too loose in the bight. Turn the end of the shroud up so that it is parallel with the standing part. You can now mark off the point at which to trim the shroud end. This can be about twice to three times the diameter of the deadeye above it. The end of the shroud was either seized with light line or capped with leather. I brush on dilute white glue around where the shroud will be cut and let it dry. I then trim the shroud end using a sharp chisel. I use burnt umber acrylic paint to simulate the leather end-cap. Paint fills up the conts (grooves) of the cable. The photograph (below) shows the "caps" before the acrylic paint was dulled with matt medium. When the paint has dried, a middle seizing – a round seizing – is applied to the two parts of the shroud and finally an end seizing, also a round seizing, just below the cap (see illustration opposite). Repeat this process on the other leg of the shroud. When you have completed the whole gang, replace them in correct sequence over the masthead. The shrouds are now ready to attach to the lower deadeyes. The laniards for the mizzen shrouds are of 2½" line. As shroud tension needed frequent adjustment, I believe that laniards would be considered running rigging. They would therefore be a natural hemp color rather than tarred line. Begin by making a knot in the end of the laniard. In full-sized practice, this would be a wall knot. Thread the laniard through the upper deadeye from inboard to outboard through the hole on the side opposite the tail of the shroud, as seen from inboard. Thread down through the corresponding hole of the lower deadeye from the outboard side, back up though the center hole of the upper deadeye in to outboard, and so on. Leave the laniard well overlength for the moment. After threading it through for the last time, bring it around behind the lower deadeye strap and put a clip on the excess line (photograph above).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Once all the laniards have been reeved, successively tighten them to align the upper deadeyes. When you are satisfied with their tensions and alignment, put a spot of dilute white glue on the laniards where they turn into the deadeye holes and let this set. Next, unclip the laniard end, take the laniard up, inboard of the upper deadeye, and thread it through the gap between the top of the deadeye and the shroud. Shroud tension will have opened up a triangular space here. Feed the line over the shroud, behind and under the laniard in a half-hitch. Now expend the laniard by wrapping it around the shroud above the deadeye. Secure by passing the end through the last turn in a half-hitch. Trim the end to length (photograph above).

15.24 Fore and main shrouds These are dealt with in a similar manner as the mizzen shrouds. These shrouds are of 10" cable and their laniards are 3½" line. The foremost shrouds of both fore and main gangs are "singles" that are cut-spliced over the masthead. They are served for their full length. Otherwise, the process for setting them up is as described above.

15.25 The mizzen stay I prefer to rig the stays from aft forward. The mizzen stay is therefore the first to be dealt with. All the lower stays are composed of cabled line. The mizzen stay is of 5½" cable. Take a length of thread to determine its length. The upper end of the stay passes around the masthead and the shrouds from port to starboard. The end of the stay has an eye splice worked into it, and the line passes back through this eye. As a stop to prevent the loop from closing completely, a mouse is worked into the stay. A mouse is a pear or conically shaped swelling that is raised on the stay. In the real ship this was a composite structure of rope and yarn. For models a simplified method may be used. Longridge describes one method of making a mouse.28 My own method is to turn a small cone of wood on the lathe. First I true the stock to a cylinder, then drill it axially to be a tight sliding fit over the stay after it has been served. I set the compound 28

C.N. Longridge The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships, pages 220-221.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

slide over to 18° and cut the taper (photograph top right). The maximum diameter of the mouse is three times the diameter of the stay. In this instance the mouse is 6" across. Mark the cone at this diameter, then cut or file a radius from that diameter and part off the mouse. To complete the mouse, I painted mine with burnt umber acrylic paint. Keeping the paint mix thick, I work up a texture to suggest the woven appearance of a real mouse. When dry, it is threaded on to the stay and glued into position (photograph center right). Make sure that the conical end is directed away from the eye splice! You will need to determine the position of the mouse on each stay by eye: they seem to be about level with the bottom of the hounds on contemporary rigged models. Once the position of the mouse on the stay is determined, serve the stay from the eye to a distance 6' 0" beyond the pointed end of the mouse. The lower end of the stay is fitted with a 5" heart. This heart is held in place by a throat seizing and two round seizings, similar to the deadeyes. To determine the position of the heart, fit the stay to its mast. Take the eye end of the stay up outside the trestle trees on the starboard side, loop it over the masthead and around the stack of shrouds, then back down the port side. Pass the stay through its own eye and feed it through until the conical end of the mouse engages the eye. Adjust the loop over the shrouds so that it sits behind them on top of the bolsters. Wet the stay to mold it into position. Next, seize in the heart so that it is about 3' 0" from the aft side of the main mast, about 7' 0" above the deck.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

15.26 The mizzen stay collar There is a second 5" heart lashed around the main mast about 7' 0" above the quarter deck. Its collar is of 4" line. The lashing holding the collar to the mast is of ¾" line. A 2½" laniard between the hearts is used to tension the stay (photograph on previous page).

15.27 The main stay collar Fitting this can pose a problem if all the headwork is in place on your model. You will need to thread a light line through the hole in the standard, now buried deep in the headwork, and then attach it to the collar. Pass it down through the head grating on the starboard side, through the hole and up again on the port side (photograph at right). Because a knot to join the end of the light line and the collar will be too large to pass through the grating, I made a connecting wire staple, like the link of a chain. This can be seen in the photograph. The collar itself is of 8" cable, 36' 0" long, served all over, fitted with a 15" heart. The usual proportions apply to this heart. One end of the main stay collar is fitted with an eye splice. The heart is then seized in with 1" line. The collar passes through the hole in the standard, then the eye, doubles back, then is seized to itself on the port side with three seizings (photograph at right). Wetting the collar where you need to bend it will help make it more pliable.

15.28 The main stay The main stay is a 10" four-stranded cable. Again, the upper end is fitted with an eye splice and a mouse and is served in a similar manner to the mizzen stay. Comments about the location of the mouse apply here also. The size of the mouse is proportionate to the stay.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

The lower end of the stay is fitted with a 15" heart. This stay passes to the starboard side of the fore mast. Although not mentioned by Steel, the stay would have been served where it passes the mast, to prevent premature wear on the stay itself. Occasionally a vertical cleat was nailed to the mast below the stay to support it, or a larger cleat with a diagonal hole through it for the stay would be added to the mast.29 This was apparently in vogue circa 1805; however, I do not recall seeing this feature on earlier contemporary models. The lower end of the main stay has a 15" heart seized into it with a 1½" throat seizing and two round seizings (these are middle and end seizings, in the same way as for the deadeyes and shrouds). A 2" laniard is reeved between this and the heart on the collar. Once tightened, the laniard end is seized to itself in a similar way to that of the main stay collar.

15.29 The main preventer stay collar This is a smaller version of the main stay collar. It is lashed to the fore mast about 6' 0" above forecastle deck level (photograph above). Its exact level is determined by the main stay; the preventer stay collar is secured about 2' 0" below the main stay at the fore mast. The collar is of 4½" cable and an 11" heart is seized into it by 1" line. The ends of the collar are eye-spliced and lashed around the fore mast with 2" line. This was often done in the form of a rose lashing. Any standard book of knots will show you how this is done.

15.30 The main preventer stay This is a scaled-down version of the main stay. The preventer stay is of 7" four-strand cable. The upper end is fitted as the main stay, the mouse being proportionate. Once again, this stay is served to 6' 0" below the mouse. One point to note is that, although the preventer stay loops over the masthead above the main stay, it was frequently passed through the loop of the main stay to run below the main stay. The lower end of the stay is fitted with an 11" heart. The laniard between this and the collar heart is of 3" line.

Darcy Lever, The Young Officer’s Sheet Anchor, 1808, Algrove Publishing facsimile edition, Ottawa, 2000, plates facing page 29 and 30.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The preventer stay is only snaked to the main stay if you are showing your model in time of war. Snaking was a zigzag line seized alternately between the two stays. If one stay were shot through, it would hold the other until repairs were made.

15.31 The fore stay The collar for the fore stay has already been made and installed (section 15.13) so that it is ready to receive the fore stay. It is similar to the main stay, but of 9½" four-strand cable. Once again, the upper end has an eye splice and a mouse worked into it. The upper end of the stay is served to 6' 0" below the mouse. The stay is passed over the masthead in the same way as before. There is a 13" heart seized into the lower end of the stay with 1" line. This is done in the same manner as for the main stay. The laniard between the hearts is of 3½" line and has two or three lashings of 1½" line around it.

15.32 The fore preventer stay Once again, this is a slightly smaller version of the fore stay. It passes above the fore stay to the fore preventer stay collar (section 15.15). It is made of 6" cable. The upper end is eye-spliced, moused and served as before. The lower end has a 10" heart seized in with 1" line and a 3½" laniard passed between the hearts. The laniard is lashed with 1" line.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

15.33 Futtock staves These were of served rope and were seized across the shrouds at the same distance below the trestle trees that the top of the masthead was above them (photograph at right, just above the ratlines). For additional rigidity in model work, I made mine of bamboo drawn down to the appropriate diameter using a treenail drawplate. The serving was applied to the bamboo using dilute white glue. A dab of burnt umber paint on the ends, to represent the leather caps, completed the staves after they were cut to a length slightly wider than the shrouds that they span. The fore and main futtock staves are of 4" line and the mizzen ones are 2½" line.30 I was puzzled as to whether the futtock staves were seized to the shrouds on their outboard or inboard sides, as various illustrations showed either method. I eventually decided to place them on the outboard side of the shrouds. I used 1" line to seize them to each shroud, a foot above the uppermost ratline.

15.34 Ratlines The next task is to “rattle down” all the lower shrouds. This is a very repetitive job but, done well, can be a rewarding one. The fore and main ratlines (or ratlings) are of 1½" and the mizzen ones of 1" line. These lines are tarred and should match the color you have chosen for the other standing rigging. In reality there was an eye splice in each end of line that was then seized to the end shrouds, and the line clove hitched around each intermediate shroud. For model work, unless you are an absolute purist, this can be simplified by omitting eye splices and seizings.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II, page 129 (Sweetman page 256). Lees, Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 310, states that they are the same size as the futtock shrouds. 30

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

A common problem when rattling down is that the progressively increasing tension across the shrouds tends to deflect and pull them into an hourglass shape. To avoid this, carefully tie every fourth or fifth ratline first, checking that the outer shrouds stay straight. Then fill in the remaining ratlines. The old-time riggers lashed either oars or spars across the shrouds at five feet intervals. These were used as steps and kept the shrouds from pulling inward. As ratlines were applied, the spars were removed as the riggers worked downward, hence the expression “rattling down.” First take a piece of card and draw a series of parallel lines 13" apart. Various texts quote anywhere from 12" to 15" spacing, so make your own choice. This card will act as a gauge when tying the ratlines. If you are right-handed, begin on the left side of the gang of shrouds. Tie the line to this shroud. A small spot of dilute white glue on the knot will secure it. Take the line across, putting a half-hitch in at each shroud. I find threading the line to a needle is helpful for this operation. At the right end shroud, tie the line off. Moisten the line with a wet brush and adjust the ratline until it lies straight with a degree of sag between each shroud that is to your taste. A touch of white glue at each half-hitch will fix it in position. As mentioned earlier, tie every fourth or fifth ratline first. Place the card gauge inboard of the shrouds to give you the correct spacing. Having set up every fourth or fifth ratline, add the remaining ones. You will find that as you go, your speed and dexterity will improve. You will have plenty of opportunity to refine your technique! The lowest "regular" ratline will pass across just above the short ends of the shrouds and the uppermost one about 1' 0" below the futtock stave. You will also need to add one or two ratlines passing across the shrouds above the deadeyes, where the shrouds are doubled and seized. Some texts specify that the ratlines were omitted across from the second to the foremost shroud except at every sixth ratline. Steel, in Volume I, page 198, says to omit ratlines on the fore and aftermost shrouds for the first six ratlines at top and bottom of the lower shrouds. Not all contemporary models show this feature. However, their rigging may have been restored and altered.

15.35 Catharpins Catharpins, pronounced “cat-harpins,” are lengths of rope that span between the fore and main shrouds at the level of the futtock staves. Each is eye-spliced or seized both ends, (illustration opposite). Catharpins were either served overall or covered with oiled leather. I opted for the latter as they can then be made of copper wire. They are also easier to fit as rigid items. I softened and formed the wire, then used burnt umber acrylic paint to simulate the leather covering (photograph opposite). I built up the paint just beyond the eyes of each catharpin to simulate the eye splices.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

There are four catharpins to both fore and main masts. There were no catharpins on the mizzen shrouds. I assume this was to leave the area unencumbered for the mizzen gaff. Measure the lengths of the catharpins carefully so that, when fitted and seized, they just draw in the shrouds very slightly. Seize them so that the foremost one runs across just aft of the mast. Try to space the others out as equally as possible. The seizings are put on as shown. It is surprising how rigid the shrouds become once the catharpins are in place (photograph below right). As an aside, the cross catharpins mentioned in Patrick O’Brian’s Aubrey/Maturin novels are later than this period. This tackle runs from the foremost shroud on one side to the aftermost shroud on the other side, allowing the foremost shroud to be bowsed in (tensioned) along with the other shrouds. Lever describes them in The Young Officer’s Sheet Anchor of 1819.

15.36 Futtock plates For a long time I puzzled about how to make futtock plates. They are square-sectioned rings encircling the topmast deadeyes. They have flat tails attached that pass through the edge of the rim of the top. It would be easy to either silver solder the ring to the tail or to saw each unit from sheet copper, but the problem was inserting the deadeye into the ring. I finally realized that the originals were not plates, but made from square-sectioned iron bar analogous to the preventer plates on the hull (see Volume II, page 264). I found no proportions for futtock plates in any texts, but, judging from contemporary models, their length seems to be three times the diameter of the deadeye they hold. In the case of a sixth rate, this makes them approximately 2' 0" long for fore and main masts and 1' 6" for the mizzen futtock plates.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

I was fortunate to have some square-sectioned brass wire in stock of the correct dimension, about 1¼" square. It first needed to be softened. It was heated to cherry-red and allowed to air-cool. A length of wire was squeezed round a drill shank whose diameter was about ⁄₆₄" smaller than the nominal diameter of the deadeye it was to be fitted to. The tail ends were then straightened out parallel to each other (photograph below). Each tail was silver soldered near its far end, then drilled for the futtock shroud hook to engage (see section 15.42). The end was trimmed and filed to a half-round shape and the plate thoroughly cleaned. It was then blackened in the usual way. The upper part of the tail was prised apart to open up the ring, a deadeye inserted and the legs of the tail closed up again in a small machine vise. This gave a very satisfactory result.

15.37 Tops It is a good time to turn attention to making the tops. These are the platforms at the upper ends of the lower masts that sit on the trestle and cross trees. These need to be made as light but as rigid as possible. In older models the tops often become distorted due to pull of the rigging. The real tops were made of 2" planks rabbeted together (2½" plank in 4th and 5th rates and 3" in larger ships). In the fore and aft sections, the planks ran athwartships and were cut to half their depth to take the side planks. The latter ran fore and aft, as seen from above. I opted to make the basic shape from three layers of �₆₄" thick model aircraft ply, making sure that the middle layer was oriented at right angles to the outer layers. These were glued up with aliphatic (yellow) glue under strong clamping pressure and left for 12 hours (photograph below right). The centers were cut out and then the outer edge shaped. Planking was simulated with a sharp scalpel blade. As my tops were to be painted, I filled grain and slight defects with automotive body putty. Note: if showing rigging after about 1775, there is an additional small square aperture in the front of the top for the slings to pass through. However, please refer to section 18.32 now.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

The rim was made in two layers. The first layer is continuous, but constructed in sections to accommodate the grain of the wood (photograph top right). It runs around the sides and front of the top. It is easier to shape the inner edges of the pieces before gluing them on, then finish the outer edges after by sanding them flush to the basic top. The next step is to turn the top upside-down and mill a 3" wide rebate into it around the sides and front curve. The depth of the rebate should be such as to leave at least one ply of material intact to support the overhanging rim pieces. Turning the top over, the various radiating battens or ribs on the upper surface are next. Their undersides need to be rebated to fit neatly over the rim pieces (photographs at right). Carefully mark out and install all the battens for the sides and rear of the top. They are nominally square in cross-section. Next to be made is the upper level of the rim at the curved front of the top. This is shaped concave in section, with a hardto-describe shape where it transitions into the sides. I made my front upper rim in sections, with spaces for the battens to fit into. The remaining battens can now be installed and the upper surfaces carefully contoured to a hollow and the edges chamfered.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

There are a number of holes to be drilled through the top (photograph at right). The first group is for the crowsfeet lines. These run around the front curve of the top and are always an odd number with one hole centrally placed. Curiously, Steel, in Plate 5, does not show the very necessary central hole in the engraving. The holes need to be large enough to pass a ¾" line through later on. There are also six holes to be drilled (fore and main tops only) on either side of the central hole and six more near the aft edge of the top for the strops of the buntline blocks (see section 15.39) to pass through. Make sure that these will clear the cross and trestle trees beneath! File these holes into rectangular athwartships slots. This will ensure that the loops of the strops will orient the blocks with their sheaves facing fore and aft. Buntline blocks are only fitted to the fore and main tops; there is no course (sail) set on the yard below the mizzen top, so no blocks will be required there. A flat plank, the gunwale or gunnel, ¾" thick, runs along the rear edge of the top. Incidentally, the plate in Steel is difficult to read; the aft elevation is immediately below the plan view and appears to be part of the plan, which it is not.31 The gunwale is drilled to take the pegs for the stanchions of the top rail, which runs across above it. Note that the gunwale sits on top of the battens. There is a small eyebolt in the gunwale above the starboard trestle tree (fore and main tops) for the topgallant yard tye fall block to hook to (see section 20.6). Also, there are two small eyebolts in the aft side of the rim (fore top only) about halfway between the trestle trees and corners for the fore topgallant yard brace blocks to hook to (see section 20.7). There are also slots in the sides of the rim for the futtock plates to pass through. These are about 1½" wide and 3" long (photograph above). They are cut through the rim so that the inner edges of the slots are flush with the vertical side of the rebate 31

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, Plate 5 (Sweetman Plate VI, back pocket).

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

under the top’s edges. There are four slots located on each side of the fore and main tops and three a side on the mizzen. Note that their spacing is not even. This will allow more room between first and second shrouds for the sister blocks (see sections 16.2 and 16.4). There is an additional timber, about 8" or 9" square in section, for the fore and main tops and about 6" for the mizzen, topped with an iron plate, set over the battens along each side of the top. It has three square mortise holes for swivel gun mounts that are set between the positions of the topmast shrouds. There are a number of blocks to hang below both the fore and main tops to take care of before installing the tops over their trestle and crosstrees. Make and fit them now. I did not do this until much later when the tops were on the model, which added difficulties that could have easily been avoided. For a description of these blocks, see the section below. The stanchions and railings may also be made now, but I would strongly advise fitting them later on when the rigging is further advanced. They are delicate and too easily broken. The last details that I forgot to make at this point and had to add later on the fore and main tops were small cleats for belaying the outer tricing lines (see section 18.40) and a small eyebolt on the gunwale near the starboard trestle tree (section 20.6). I strongly suggest adding these now! I made these cleats 8" long, 2" thick and 4" high. They attach athwartships on the first transverse plank forward of the square hole.

15.38 Making blocks and their proportions There are many different methods of making blocks. I shall describe my admittedly labor-intensive method; however, it will give you excellent results. Begin with a length of stock cut to the width and thickness of the finished block. On this, mark out the length of the blocks allowing 1/16" (actual) spacing between each block. On one edge, mark out the position of the holes that will need to be drilled. It will be easiest to use a mill or drill press with an x-y table fitted to drill holes accurately at the desired intervals (photograph at right).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

After drilling, notch between the blocks (photograph at right). I used my scroll saw for this. Use a very sharp chisel to take off the corners of the block (refer to the photographs). Refine the profile of the block using Swiss files. Make sure that the shape is truly ovoid, not just a rectangle with rounded corners. That is the commonest error seen on blocks, whether commercial or hand-made. Using a jewelers' round file, groove the sheave hole along each side between the holes you have drilled. If the block is a large one, use a micro-sized round gouge for the next step. If it is small, use a cut-down hypodermic needle that has the end honed at about 45°. Using the appropriate tool, cut in the sheave as shown. Next, begin to shape the side profile of the block. Once the free end is shaped, file in the groove for the strop. Shape the fixed end so that a small stalk remains, then file and sand the edges of the block off into smooth curves. Use a triangular or knife-edge Swiss file to undercut the attached end of the block. (If one attempts to part the blocks off before shaping, especially in small sizes, they tend to escape into another dimension, never to be seen again.) The block can then be easily snapped off at the stalk, smoothed off and the second end grooved for the strop. A very convincing impression of a block with working sheave is the result (lowest photograph at right). The examples in the photographs above demonstrate the making of a 8" single common block and those in the lower photograph are of 12" double blocks.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

Blocks are made to specific proportions. Steel describes these as follows:32 The proportions for single, double, treble, fourfold, and other blocks, are as follows; viz. the length is eight times the breadth of the sheave hole, which is one sixteenth of an inch more than the thickness of the sheave; the thickness of the sheave is one-tenth more than the diameter of the rope it is intended for, and the diameter of the sheave is five times the thickness. The breadth of the block to be six times the thickness of the sheave, and the thickness to be one half the length, or nearly so. Flat thin blocks are three-eights of the length thick; but all blocks having more than one sheave, encrease (sic) their thickness more than the above proportion, by the additional number of sheave-holes, and middle parts or partitions; the thickness of each partition to be one-sixth less than the breadth of the sheave-hole. These are the general dimensions, but sometimes vary, according to the use intended for. Very large treble and fourfold blocks are formed of separate pieces, as the cheeks, middle parts, or partitions, &c. when made thus, they are termed made blocks.

The proportions given above are shown in graphic form in the illustration below.

15.39 Buntline blocks The fore and main tops are fitted from below with four 8" and 7" double-sheaved blocks respectively. My earlier remarks on the proportions and shape of blocks apply here as well. Their strops pass through the two middle holes, fore and aft, on each side of the top. As the top has thickness, I would add 6" to the length of the strop (see Table II, section 15.43) to provide a sufficiently long loop to pass up through the top and be able to peg it in position. Cylindrical wooden pegs passed through the strop from above secure them to the top. Don’t make the strop so long that the block hangs any distance below the underside of the top. Once the blocks are stropped, they can be mounted to the tops. Pass a thread through the loop of the strop. Pass both ends of the thread up through the appropriate (center) hole in the top. This hole may need to be filed out athwartships to accommodate the strop. Pull the strop through by the thread. 32

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 153 (no reference in Sweetman).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Once in position, withdraw the thread and secure the block in place with its wooden peg oriented fore and aft through the protruding strop loop (see photograph, end of section 15.45). Make sure that the correct size of blocks are mounted in the appropriate positions!

15.40 Leechline blocks Similar to the buntline blocks, these are four 7" double blocks, fitted below the outer holes in the fore and main tops. Install these as you did the buntline blocks.

15.41 Spritsail yard brace blocks There are also four single blocks fitted below the inner holes in each side of the fore top for the sprit topsail braces. Steel does not specify the size of these blocks, but about 6" would be about right. Again, wooden pegs are used to secure them as for the leechline and buntline blocks. I would advise delaying fitting the stanchions and rail until later in the rigging process. It is too easy to knock and break off a railing. I speak from experience. Now you can finally set the tops permanently onto their cross and trestle trees. Each top should sit so that the fore edge of the central hole aligns with the aft side of the fore cross tree, leaving a square gap for the topmast to pass through.

15.42 Futtock shrouds The first step in dealing with futtock shrouds is to insert the futtock plates through their slots in the tops. The tails will need to be bent to align with the futtock shrouds below the top, down to the futtock stave. They also need to follow the line of the topmast shrouds above. To establish the latter, temporarily fit the mast caps and slide the topmasts (see Chapter Sixteen) up through their caps. Fit toothpicks fids to hold the topmasts in position for now. A thread from the hounds and stop of the topmasts will show how much you need to rotate each deadeye in its loop so that it aligns with the shroud.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

The fore and main futtock shrouds are 4½" rope-laid line and the mizzen ones are of 3½" line. Their upper ends are eye-spliced around thimbles to which hooks are attached. These fit into the holes at the lower ends of the futtock plates (photograph, previous page). The lower ends pass under the futtock staves, in and up, then over, out and down again. The tails of the futtock shrouds are taken down and seized to the lower shrouds with two round seizings. The tail of each futtock shroud is secured to the closest convenient lower shroud. The ratlines to the fore and main shrouds are 1" line and the mizzen of ¾" line. These are rigged in the usual way.

15.43 Euphroes Euphroes (pronounced “you-frows”) are specialized wooden blocks that spread the crowsfeet. Crowsfeet are a system of radiating light lines that protect the stays from abrasion by the lower edges of the topsails. They also prevent the lower edges of the topsails from catching the rim of the tops. The lines and euphroes are surprisingly small when made to scale (photograph below, quarter inch squares). The largest euphroes, for the fore and main stays in a sixth rate, are only 16" long and are drilled with 11 holes each. The smaller one for the mizzen stay is 12" long and has 8 holes. Calculate the holes by the number of them counted off on one side of the top rim (see section 15.37). It is difficult to make these blocks without a drill press equipped with an x-y table, as the #78 drill holes are spaced at 0.7mm on center. It can be done, however, as the old-time ship model-makers demonstrated. However, modern machinery simplifies the task considerably. Each euphroe is about 2½" thick, 3" wide at the wider end and about 2" at the narrow end. Cut a long piece of stock 2½" thick and 3" wide. Mark one edge out for the holes and drill them in an appropriate set-up. Score the two faces of the stock longitudinally for the strop. Taper the block, shape the ends and separate it from the strip to complete the euphroe.

15.44 Euphroe tackle The euphroe is secured to its stay and the crowsfeet tensioned by means of tackle. This consists of two small single blocks and a laniard. The smallest blocks in a ship were 4" ones. I would make them this size, although Steel does not specify them. By 1800 these blocks had been replaced by thimbles, which Steel does mention. All blocks were made to strict proportions (see section 15.38). A total of six 4" single blocks will be required for the euphroe tackles.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

These blocks attach to the stays with strops that are 1' 6" long. Steel 33 gives a table, transcribed below, specifying the length and diameter of strop for each size of block. Stropping such small blocks is an exercise in patience. A "third hand" to hold the block while applying the strop is a great help here. Note that the strops for the euphroe need to be long enough at one end to make a loop to attach the end of the crowsfoot line to, plus more at the other end to strop in the other 4" block and a loop for attaching the tackle (see photograph at right). You will need to measure the strop length by trial and error to fit your own euphroes. Below is the table from Steel given the standard lengths of strop for various sizes of single blocks. Obviously double and triple blocks would require longer strops. Use these measurements as a guide as they may be a little shorter than you need, depending on the the overlap of your splices. Table II Block size

Strop circumf.

Length

Block size

Strop circumf.

Length

4" 5" 6" 7" 8" 9" 10"

¾" 1½" 2" 2½" 2½" 2½" 3"

1' 6" 1' 9" 2' 6" 2' 9" 3' 0" 3' 4" 3' 9"

11" 12" 13" 14" 15" 16" 17"

3" 3½" 3½" 3½" 4" 4½" 5"

4' 2" 4' 6" 4' 11" 5' 4" 6' 0" 6' 8" 7' 4"

One single block is seized about 4' 0" below the mouse to the mizzen stay. On both the main and fore stays the blocks are seized 6' 0" below the mouse. Before reeving the tackle line through this block and the one attached to the euphroe, secure one end of the crowsfoot line to the other end of the euphroe strop (photograph above, right side). Make sure that you have enough line to complete the crowsfoot; you will need at least 56" (actual length for a 1:48 model) of ¾" line to do this. I used 6/0 brown fly-tying silk. It looks far too thin compared with crowsfeet on most models but it is, in fact, scale size. I double-checked this using a micrometer.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 153 (Sweetman page 148).

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

Secure one end of the tackle line to the strop of the 4" block/euphroe combination (photograph at left, left side). To assist feeding lines, stiffen their ends with either white or cyano-acrylate glue. I do not recommend using the latter for any other purpose in rigging, as cyano-acrylate will eventually make the line brittle. Reeve the crowsfoot line down through the central hole at the edge of the top. Now reeve the tackle line through the other single block on the stay, back through the first single block sheave and down to the stay. Half hitch the tackle line to the stay temporarily (photograph at right).

15.45 Crowsfeet Pass the crowsfoot line underneath the top rim and up through the next hole to port. Take care not to let the line snag on a hull fitting, as there is such a long length hanging loose. It is all too easy to catch the line on a port lid or other item, either damaging it or, worse, snapping the line. Feed the line down to the euphroe on its port side and pass it through the uppermost hole to the starboard side. Lead the line up to the first starboard side hole on the rim, down through it and up again on the next outer hole to the one now full. Lead the line down to the next hole in the euphroe, passing through from starboard to port. Repeat this sequence until all the holes in top rim and euphroe have been filled (photograph at right). The last leg should lead the line down the outermost hole in the top rim from above. The end of the line can be passed through the previous adjacent loop below the rim and given a couple of half hitches to tie it off. It can then trimmed, after the tension in the line has been adjusted and equalized.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Complete the job by adjusting tackle line tension if necessary, and then snug down the tackle half hitches. Seize the end of the line to the stay and trim the long end. This completes the lower mast standing rigging. In preparation for running rigging, there are some items that are more conveniently added now. This is out of the sequence that was used for full-sized work, because access to parts of the model’s rigging becomes difficult later. Please refer to the following sections:

17.7 for the main topgallant stay span 18.42 for the span for the fore yard braces 19.28 for the span for the main topsail yard braces 19.29 for the span for the fore topsail yard braces

CHAPTER SIX TEEN

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

his chapter covers manufacture and setting up of the standing rigging for the topmasts and jibboom. Before beginining work, slide the topmasts up into position and secure the fids.

16.1 Burton pendants Set the cross and trestle tree in place. As for the lower masts, the first items to slip over the masthead are the Burton pendants, sometimes called pendants for the tackles. These are similar to those on the lower masts but on a smaller scale. They are of 3" line, served all over, and have thimbles and a cut splice worked into them. They are fitted to the fore and main topmast only. Their length should be such that the thimbles hang slightly below the hounds. It is advisable to delay fitting the topmast caps or topgallant masts until later.

16.2 Fore and main topmast shrouds From my reading, it appears that the topmast shrouds were four-stranded right hand laid rope, not cable laid. The fore and main shrouds are 4½". Their deadeyes are 7" in diameter. The laniards are of 2½" line and the fore and main ratlines 1". All these items are rigged in the same manner as the lower shrouds. In all the references that I have, none specifically states where servings are applied. They merely state that the shrouds are similar to the lower ones. My assumption is that the foremost shroud is served all along its length and all the others around the masthead. It is logical that one would want to protect the foremost shroud from chafing by the topsail. On the other hand, not all contemporary models show served topmast shrouds.34 There are two pairs of shrouds for each side of the fore and main topmasts. Seize a pair of sister blocks (see section 16.4) between the first pair of shrouds halfway down the hounds (photograph at right). Remember to seize in the deadeyes the opposite way to those of the cable-laid lower shrouds. Reeve the laniards the opposite way as well (refer to the illustration in section 15.23).

James Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860. For an example of this see plate 23; Medway, 60 guns, of 1742. 34

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Now is a good time to make and install the shroud cleats (see section 20.9). These are usually secured to the second, third and fourth shrouds between the lowest and next ratline up.

16.3 Mizzen topmast shrouds The mizzen topmast shrouds consist of 2½" four-strand rope with 5" deadeyes. Their laniards are of 1½" line and the ratlines are ¾". The foremost shroud is served all-over. As there are an odd number of shrouds, the aft leg of the aftermost pair continues down as the standing backstay. This is a permanent stay rather than either a shifting or breast backstay. The lower end of this stay has a deadeye seized into it and is hove down (tightened) by its laniard to the appropriate deadeye on the mizzen stool. If the backstay passes close to the mizzen top, it is served in this area to prevent it chafing against the rim. You may need to add a small backstay stool aft of the quarter badge at drift rail height to accommodate this backstay.

16.4 Sister blocks A sister block is a specialized thin block consisting of two narrow sheaves, one above the other, mounted in the same shell. I cannot find a reference in Steel as to their size, but as the lines that are reeved through them are 2½" in diameter, their sheaves should be no more than 1" wide. I would make the fore and main sheave blocks equivalent to a 7" block and the mizzen ones 6" (illustration at right). I have estimated the proportions of these blocks in this drawing from Steel’s engraving of different varieties of blocks.

16.5 Topmast futtock staves Although Steel omits any mention of them, futtock staves were lashed to the topmast shrouds. They should be placed as far below the trestle trees as the cap was above them. My staves are of 2½" served line for fore and main masts. If a mizzen topgallant mast is fitted, the stave is of 1½" line. Futtock staves are made and attached as before (see section 15.33).

16.6 Topmast ratlines The fore and main topmast ratlines are of 1" line, and the mizzen ratlines are ¾" line. They are tied exactly as were the lower mast ratlines, except that they extend across all shrouds. The uppermost ratlines are about 1' 0" below the futtock staves (photograph on opposite page). The rigging will now be at the stage shown in the photograph opposite.

CHAPTER

SIX TEEN

16.7 Fore and main topmast backstays As for the lower masts, rig the stays from aft forward. The main and fore topmast backstays are of 4½" line. These are permanent standing backstays. Unlike on larger ships, these are single stays – there is only one on each side of the ship – so a short length of line is spliced into the center of the backstay to secure it around the topmast head. This is known as a tongue. It is served all over when completed and looks similar to a cut splice (illustration & photo below right). However, in this instance one side of the splice is longer than the other. Sometimes it is referred to as a horseshoe splice, for its resemblance to a barred horseshoe. For a sixth rate, I would make the tongue about 1' 3" long, exclusive of the "spliced" portion. Attach it in a similar manner to the cut splices of the first lower shrouds. When installing the stay, the tongue should be on the aft side of the masthead. (In large ships the backstays are paired so, if this is the case, treat them in the same way as you did for the first shroud pairs over the lower masthead.) The main and fore backstays have 7" deadeyes turned into their lower ends. Reeve 2½" laniards through these and the corresponding 7" deadeyes in the aft ends of the channels.

16.8 The mizzen topmast stay The mizzen topmast stay, which is of 3" line, runs forward and down from the mizzen topmast head, counterbalancing the backstay and shrouds. It is fitted over the shrouds and backstays. If your model is fitted with a mizzen topgallant mast, the upper end of the stay is fitted with an eye and mouse. The mouse is made and fitted in exactly the

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

same way as for the lower stays. However, there is an exception. In contemporary models 35 without a mizzen topgallant, the mizzen stay is simply fitted with an eye that slips over the masthead. Remember to serve the line for a few feet beyond the mouse or eye. The lead of the mizzen topmast stay is problematic. There are several possibilities, as this was a time of change in rigging fashion. One possible way is to strop a small block, say an 8" one, so that its strop can be lashed around the main masthead above the shrouds and stays. The strop is of 2" line, which is served as usual. The stay is led through the block, down the lubbers’ hole to the foot of the main mast at the deck. Here either a thimble is fitted and a 1½" laniard is used between the thimble and an eyebolt in the deck aft of the mast, or two single blocks are used with the laniard to tension the stay. In parenthesis, a useful method of determining the length of a strop is to take a thin slip of paper and mark the diameter around the masthead or hounds on it. Then it is easy to make up the strop to the length needed. I seized the thimble into the line that will become the strop before marking off its length for the eyes, allowing room for the laniard to be reeved between the eyes. Another possibility is for a thimble to be stropped and attached to the aft side of the mainmasthead, instead of a block, to lead the line. Another thimble is spliced into the end of the stay, after it has been passed through the leading thimble. The laniard is passed through this second thimble, eye-spliced to it, reeved through an eyebolt on the aft side of the main top and secured in the usual way. Yet another variant – which is what I have done – is to strop the thimble below the main mast hounds. In the case of my own model, this gives a more diagonal than horizontal lead for the stay. I think that this angle is a determining factor as to where the leading block or thimble is fitted. The stay is then led down between the catharpins to the deck. The thimble in the end of the stay is secured to a ringbolt in the deck aft of the main mast by the 1½" laniard already mentioned.

An example of this is the rigged model of Atalanta in the National Maritime Museum. I do not believe that mizzen topgallant masts were normally fitted to small ships during this time period.

CHAPTER SIX TEEN

16.9 The main topmast preventer stay The preventer stay is rigged over the topmast head first, before the main topmast stay. This stay is of 4" line. Steel specifies four-strand "fine" cable,36 but my reading leads me to believe that, at least in small ships, regular right-hand line was used. It is fitted with an eye and mouse in the same manner as the lower mast stays. Make the mouse proportionate to the stay, as before. The stay is served for a distance several feet below the mouse. The stay loops around the masthead over the shroud and stays. It then passes under the first and second cross-trees. Steel’s table in Volume II, page 125, is missing some figures and type for the main topmast preventer stay. Perhaps some pieces of lead fell out while the printers' forme was being made up and this omission was not caught on the proofs. It is also possible that the proof-reader had nodded off, because there is an obvious typographical error a few lines further down! It must have been exacting work to proofread page after page of numbers. Checking with other classes of ships, I found that the required sizes are exactly the same as for the fore preventer stay.

16.10 The main topmast preventer stay collar The stay leads forward and down through an 11" single block whose strop encircles the fore mast just below the hounds. Make up a long strop for this block in a similar manner to the thimble for the mizzen topmast stay (section 16.8). The strop for this block is of 3" served line. One end of the strop has a small eye splice in it. In order to get the tight bend required and not have an excessively large eye, wet the strop in order to shape it. Seize the block in to the strop on a short leg, again helping by wetting the strop to mold it to the block (photograph below). This shows the block seized in and the eye of the short leg formed. There is no eye for the long leg in this instance. Either use white glue or acrylic matt medium on the end of the long leg to prevent the serving from unravelling. In actual practice, a seizing was applied around the end of the strop. The long leg of the strop passes around the mast, through the eye, then doubles back and is seized to itself. In hindsight, (see section 14.13) this was one of those tasks better accomplished before the mast was set up! A small needle helps to apply the seizings once the strop is in place and fed through its own eye. Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II, page 125 (Sweetman page 158). "Fine" refers to cablets, i.e. cables under 9" in circumference. 36

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

16.11 The main topmast preventer stay tackle The preventer stay leads down through the 11" block to end in a 14" long tackle block. A long tackle block is a double block where the sheaves, one smaller than the other, are in line rather than side-by-side (illustration 26). It is also sometimes referred to as a fiddle block for its resemblance to the body of a violin. Like other blocks, it is made to a strict scheme of proportions. One can scale the illustration for other long tackle blocks that will need to be made. The long tackle block, larger sheave uppermost, is seized into the end of the stay. A 7" single block with a 3" strop is hooked to the eyebolt on the port side aft of the fore mast. The tackle between these blocks is of 2½" line. Making this tackle is tricky. First, unless you’ve already made a supply, make up hooks about 5" to 6" long from annealed brass wire and blacken them. Take some 3" line and thread a hook on to it. Wet a spot on the line and make a sharp bend in it preparatory to making a loop for the hook. Take fine fly-tying silk and tie the hook into the line. Make the eye of the line around the hook as small and tight as you can. To make this up, the "third hand" is very helpful. Now wet the line on both sides of the seizing and spread the legs of the line. Put a small spot of glue at one end of the 7" block to hold it and position the block into the line. Moisten the line, mold it around the block. Seize the two legs together at the other end of it. The strop should run tightly around the block and seat in its grooves. Take a length of 2½" line for the tackle and form a small eye in one end. Thread this on to one leg of the strop. Moisten the strop and bend it around the eye of the tackle. Cut the other leg of the strop as short as you can and glue the bent end of the other leg to it. Seize around this joint with fly-tying line, making sure that the joint is secure. The finished assembly should look like the photograph (right). Hook this assembly to the port side eyebolt, just aft of the foremast. The laniard reeves up through the small sheave in the sister block, down through the 7" single block, then up again around the larger sheave and finally hitches around itself (photograph on following page).

CHAPTER SIX TEEN

16.12 The main topmast stay, collar and tackle This stay is of 5½" line. Again, Steel specifies four-strand "fine" cable. It is fitted with an eye and mouse in the same manner as the preventer stay you have just fitted. This stay is also served for a distance several feet below the mouse. The stay loops over the preventer stay at the masthead, then leads forward and down through a 14" single block stropped to the fore masthead just above the fore stay. The strop or collar for this block is of 4" line. It is made up in the same way as the preventer stay collar (section 16.10). If rigging staysails, read section 25.28 and add the necessary brail blocks now. The main topmast stay leads down through the 14" block to end in another 15" long tackle block, in a similar manner as the preventer stay. A 7" single block with a 3" strop is hooked to the eyebolt on the starboard side, aft of the fore mast. The tackle is also of 2½" line.

16.13 The jibboom crupper This quaintly named line – reminiscent of horse harness – is next. The jibboom crupper is the heel lashing for the jibboom to keep it from moving inboard. Steel does not specify it, but Lees 37 states that it is the same size line as the bowsprit shroud laniard, namely of 2" line. Begin by passing one end of the line through the horizontal hole in the heel of the jibboom. Make an eyesplice in this end. (It was possible that this may have a wall knot worked in the end of the line instead.) Assuming that there is an eye splice, pass the other end of the line through the eye as you did for the gammoning. Take seven turns around both bowsprit and jibboom, then several cross-turns to snug it tight (photograph at right). This secures the jibboom for the topgallant stays and other rigging.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860, page 186.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

16.14 The fore topmast stay The fore topmast stay is fitted with an eye and mouse and loops over the topmast head. This stay is of 5" line. Steel specifies four-strand "fine" cable, but I used right-hand line on my model. Remember to serve about 20' 0" of the line at the standing end. The stay leads forward and down to the bees, through the starboard side aft slot, around the sheave below it, then back along the bowsprit to end with a 14" sister block. This block is seized in so that it is approximately opposite the gammoning. A 7" single block is stropped and hooked (similarly to the main topmast stay tackle) with a 2½" tackle line eye-spliced to the strop. The tackle line reeves through the blocks as before. However, according to Steel,38 the running end of the line – the fall – is then taken through the eyebolt in the bow and then through the arse end of the 7" single block repeatedly and finished off with two half hitches around itself. Taking the line though the 7" block was impossible on the model, as the fall obstructed threading it. Therefore after taking the fall through the eyebolt in the bow, I half hitched it back to itself, made several turns and half-hitched it again before trimming off the excess line (photograph below).

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship Volume I, page 201, (Sweetman page 158).

CHAPTER SIX TEEN

An alternative method used was to eye-splice a thimble in the end of the stay and seize the stay to the eyebolt in the bow. In this case, the stay needs to be a little longer so that the seizing will not be excessively long. Petersson 39 shows this method. My reading suggests that this method was used on smaller ships,40 so it is quite possible this was the method used on sixth rates. There were probably other ways that this stay was set up, so I leave it to your master rigger to decide.

16.15 The fore topmast preventer stay This stay is set up similarly to the fore topmast stay, but is of 4" line. This loops over the preventer stay and reeves through the port side forward slot of the bees, around the sheave below, and ends with a 14" sister block. The tackle arrangement to the port side eyebolt in the bow is otherwise the same as for the previous stay. (See the photograph on opposite page; this tackle is the one nearer the viewer.)

Lennarth Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, page 18.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860, pages 56-57.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

n this chapter, the jibboom and topgallant standing rigging will be dealt with. This effectively completes the balance of the standing rigging. Take particular care while working on the upper rigging. It is only too easy to snag a tool, a loose line or finger on a projecting item and snap it off. I broke one of the main topmast crosstrees in an unguarded moment. Repair was difficult to carry out without un-rigging the topmast. However, before continuing the rigging process, a piece of metalwork for the jibboom and one other item for the bowsprit have to be completed first.

17.1 The jib traveler The jib traveler is a rather interesting ring that slips over the jibboom. Its form is similar to that shown illustrated below. There are variations of this design illustrated by different sources. The one shown here seems to be a typical form of the fitting. The ring itself should be made to be a loose fit over the jibboom; I made mine with an internal diameter of 1' 0". I could not find a reference to the diameter of the metal used for this ring, so I used brass wire 2" in scale diameter. Two other items are fitted to this ring. The first is a large hook that was used to attach to the tack cringle of the jib sail. This is a loop of rope formed at the lower forward corner of this sail. The other fitting is a shackle for attaching the jib outhaul. This is the line that moves the traveler outboard when the jib sail is set. Note the space on the ring between the shackle and hook. There needs to be sufficient space left to attach the jib stay and jib downhaul lines in the gap. The shackle and hook, made from 1½" wire, were threaded on to the ring. The ring was then soldered closed and blackened. The traveler was covered in rawhide leather, except at the shackle, to protect the jibboom. This is similar to a modern, covered steering wheel with the leather stitched on. The covering was simulated with acrylic paint. I chose raw sienna to imitate leather. The ring is threaded on to the jibboom so that the point of the hook faces outboard.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

17.2 Bowsprit horses and fore topmast staysail netting Now would be a good time to make and fit the bowsprit horses. (Also refer to section 15.16.) There are some details that are easier to make before fitting them to the model. The first of these is a netting attached to the horses for stowing the fore topmast staysail on (see section 25.6). This is a triangular fore-and-aft sail. The netting is formed between two short stretchers or staves that run athwartships. These stretchers have a hole at each end that the horses pass through. Make them from 3" square stock. They should be about 2' 6" long. Drill holes to a size that the 3" horses will pass through easily. To determine the correct distance between the holes, temporarily run thread from the eyebolts in the top of the bollard timbers to the eyebolts on the aft side of the bowsprit cap. After drilling the holes, reduce the square stock to a round section and smooth off the ends about 2" outside the holes. Thread the line for the horses through and temporarily secure the completed stretchers on a holding jig, spacing them about 5' 0" apart. Form the netting by zig-zagging light ¾" or 1" tarred line between them. Seize the line neatly to each stave in turn. I used 8-0 fly-tying thread. The illustration in Darcy Lever 41 is unfortunately misleading. This is repeated in Lees’ book 42 as well as Petersson 43 and elsewhere. These illustrations show only this first stage of forming the netting. There is a second step, where alternate pairs of lines are seized together and also to the bowsprit horses to form a diamond-shaped netting (photograph at right). If one reads the text in Lever, he makes this clear. This point was kindly brought to my attention by Rob Napier.44

Darcy Lever, The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor, page 25, figure 181.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 126.

Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, page 91.

Personal e-mail communication, 26th April, 2009.

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

In order to form the netting, one stretcher needs to be loose enough to move toward the other. Some simple device may be rigged to provide moving resistance. I tied a length of line around the "far" stretcher (at the top of photograph) and attached a small weight to the end of it. To form the diamond-shaped netting, alternate pairs of threads are seized together. Again, I used 8-0 fly-tying thread for the purpose with small dabs of white glue and, when dry, sealed with burnt umber acrylic paint. I also used wire hooks to keep the horses from bowing inward under tension, as seen in the photograph. This was a very awkward and tedious process, so I advise you to do this on the workbench, off the model. According to Lees, a span for the bowsprit horses is appropriate for ships before about 1765.45 After this date it was dispensed with. This span is a length of line that acts as a lift or support so that the horses do not droop under the weight of the net or the jib sail when stowed in it. Aft of the netting, the horses pass through thimbles at the ends of a short span attached to the fore stay. I would make the span from 3" line, clove hitched around the fore stay above the heart. All this has to be done before completing the horses themselves. Thread the horses through the span, if fitted, from fore to aft. Splice in the thimbles on the inboard ends of the horses, so that the stretchers carrying the netting will be located correctly above the heel of the jibboom and space will be left between the thimbles and bollard timber eyebolts for the laniards. Next, form eye splices on the horses’ outboard ends around the eyebolts in the sides of the bowsprit cap. Reeve laniards of 1" line between the thimbles and eyebolts on the bollard timbers, tension them, and then hitch them off in the usual way.

17.3 The jibboom horses These are the footropes rigged on either side of the jibboom. Unlike the bowsprit horses, which are hand-ropes, these are knotted at 2' 0" intervals. The jibboom horses are of 2½" line. The outer end of the horse is made fast around the jibboom, against the stop at its outer end. I could not determine exactly how this was done, but a reasonable method would be to form an eye at the end of the line, pass the line around the jibboom tip and then back through the eye. Make sure that this eye is large enough for the knots in the line to pass through! For a sixth rate, the distance from the eye to the first knot is about 5' 0". Rig the horse to the starboard side first.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 51. However, the illustration is inaccurate; it shows knots along the bowsprit horses.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The horse is taken aft of the bowsprit cap. It should be long enough to hang in a bight, the center of which lies about 3' 0" below the jibboom. The inboard end of the line fastens with a round turn around the jibboom, inboard of the bowsprit cap. The end of the line is seized to itself with two or three seizings of spun yarn. This was done for security to prevent the line from being accidentally cast off. Repeat this process for the port side horse. In some ships the forward face of the bowsprit cap had additional eyebolts on each side for fastening the horses to. It is a little tricky to get the horses to hang equally on both sides. Moisten the lines and mold them into curves that hang naturally (photograph above). If necessary, temporarily weigh the lines down slightly. Also see section 18.7 for a technique to facilitate this.

17.4 Main topgallant shrouds and backstays Before fitting the fore and main topmast caps and topgallant masts, it is easier to make and fit the topsail yard tye blocks described in section 19.24. I did not anticipate this, which made fitting these at a later stage unnecessarily difficult. These can be seen suspended below the trestle trees (photograph at right). The topgallant shrouds are of 2½" line. The first pair is rigged to starboard, as usual. Serve the middle for about 8' 0" and fix a seizing around the center. Make the bight or loop just large enough to slip over the masthead and sit on the stop. Pass the lower ends of the shroud through the holes in the cross trees. Theoretically the shroud should also be served for a short distance on each side of the cross tree, but I found that the additional diameter of the serving in a scale model makes it impractical to enlarge the holes as there is so little wood at the ends of the cross trees.

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

The ends of the shrouds were simply seized to the topmast futtock staves in a similar manner to the topmast shrouds below. The method of taking the shrouds down inside the topmast shrouds was a nineteenth century innovation that we need not deal with here. Then it was usual for shroud cleats to be lashed to the topmast shrouds for this purpose. (See section 20.9 for details.) This was done so that the weather and lee side shrouds could be easily slackened off or re-tensioned as required from the comparative comfort of the tops. Make and rig the port side fore pair in the same way. The aftermost pair of shrouds’ aft legs – there are always an odd number of them – extend down as the topgallant backstays, so ensure that the line is long enough to seize in a 6" deadeye. A 1" laniard is used between this and the aftermost deadeye in the main channel. Be careful as you tension the shrouds and backstays so as not to pull the masts out of vertical. The topgallant masts are thin so that it is easy to deflect them. Ratlines to the topgallants were dispensed with after about 1745, so that is one less task to carry out.

17.5 Fore topgallant shrouds and backstays All these are identical to those for the main mast, so refer to the descriptions in the previous section and rig them in exactly the same way. Again, read section 19.24 first.

17.6 The main topgallant stay The upper end of this stay is eye-spliced and passed over the main topgallant masthead and slid down to sit on the backstays above the stop. It is made of 3" line, served over the eye and for the first few feet below it. The stay runs forward and down through a small block or thimble stropped to the fore topmast head above the fore topmast shrouds. If you elect to use a block here, a 9" single with a 2½" strop would be the correct size for this. Lees 46 states that the stay leads down to the strop of the main topmast stay leading block, which it is then hitched to. However, run as described, this line will foul the lower mast cap. Other authorities 47 describe a span (see section 17.7) between the aft ends of the lower mast trestle trees that straddles the main topgallant stay lead block. This seems an eminently more practical solution. However, this presents the difficulty of installing the span at this stage of rigging (see the end of section 15.45). 46

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 62.

Longridge, The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships, page 224; R. J. Collins, Model Engineer, Myrmidon (series), 1st August 1957, pages 162-163; Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, page 17. 47

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Make sure that the strop of the lead block is long enough for the line to clear the mast cap below. After passing the stay through the lead block, seize a thimble into the end of the line a little below the cap. The laniard is of 1" line and is eye-spliced to the upper thimble. Pass several turns through the thimble in the span (see section 17.7, below) and frap the line around itself in the usual way.

17.7 The main topgallant stay span This span is a length of line that forms an inverted "V" with a thimble seized into the peak of the line. The ends of the legs are eye-spliced around the aft part of the foremast trestle trees. If you did not install this span earlier, as suggested (section 15.45), the eye splices will need to be faked. One possible way is to make the span of served wire and drill holes into the trestle trees. The correct way would be to eye-splice the ends of the span around the trestle trees between the edge of the top and the bolsters. This can only be accomplished before the top is fitted permanently. Make sure that the span is long enough to straddle the topmast stay and lead block. The thimble in my span is about 4' 0" above the top. There is no specification given in Steel, so I used a 3" line. I had to drill and feed the legs of the span down through the trestle trees, and then wrapped the ends around them to give the impression of eye splices.

17.8 Guy pendants for the jibboom The fore topgallant stay (section 17.11) cannot be installed until other items, including guy pendants for the jibboom, are partially rigged. The eye splices for the guy pendants are 2½" lines that slip over the jibboom end next to the horses, starboard side first. The guy falls (section 18.13) will pass though thimbles on the spritsail yard and be attached to tackles in the bow, so cannot be completed until the spritsail yard is slung (section 18.9). Leave the ends of the lines long enough to reach the bow and hitch them out of the way for the time being.

17.9 Collar for the fore topgallant stay and fore topgallant bowlines In addition, before rigging the fore topgallant stay, there is a collar to be made that will fit over the jibboom end. It sits against the guy pendants. This collar, of 2½" served line, has three small thimbles seized into it at the 10:30, 12:00 and 1:30 o’clock positions (photograph at right). The central thimble will be used to direct the fore topgallant stay through. I would

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

cheat a little by cutting the collar in such a way as to be able to glue the ends of it together under the jibboom. To mold the collar to the tight curves required, wet the served line first; it will make the task much easier.

17.10 Spritsail yard lift collar The spritsail yard lift collar is similar to the collar just made. However, this collar has only two thimbles seized into it at 3:00 and 9:00 o’clock. The lifts for the spritsail yard (section 18.10) will reeve through these thimbles when the yard is installed. This collar slips over the end of the jibboom and snugs up against the collar that has just been installed (photograph at right).

17.11 The fore topgallant stay The upper end of the fore topgallant stay is eye-spliced. It is made of 3" line. The upper end and eye are served. The eye is passed over the fore topgallant masthead and slid down to sit on the backstays above the stop. The stay runs forward and down. It passes from fore to aft through the central thimble in the collar that you have just made and installed at the jibboom end. The stay then runs aft, ending in a thimble. This is seized to another thimble whose strop is attached to the starboard side of the gammoning. Some books describe this line rigged to the knighthead, but it may run foul of other lines. Alternatively, the second thimble and collar are seized to the starboard side of the fore preventer stay collar heart (photograph at right). Whichever method works best on your individual ship is the one to adopt. In the case of Resolution, the latter method gave the line a clear run between the fore topmast and fore topmast preventer stays.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

17.12 Collar for the sprit topsail bowlines There is yet one more collar to fit over the end of the jibboom. Note that some small ships, including Resolution, did not carry a sprit topsail yard. If this is the case, this collar can be omitted. This additional collar also consists of served 2½" line with two small thimbles seized in at 3:00 and 9:00 o’clock. Make it up in a similar manner to that described in section 17.9. This last detail completes the standing rigging, unless one includes the horses to the yards which, technically speaking, are also considered standing rigging and are of tarred line. These will be described in the next chapter (section 18.7). If you require details for the sprit topsail yard and its rigging, consult Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 18 and pages 103 to 104.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

n this chapter the construction of the yards and their rigging will be described. Much of the work is similar on each yard, but there are variations that will be noted as we progress. It will be convenient to begin with the spritsail yard.

To make a yard, the procedure is similar to that for making masts. However, in this case the yard is symmetrical about its centerline. Again, an accurate drawing and the diameter at the different quarters are prerequisites for marking out and shaping the yard.

18.1 The spritsail yard This yard is suspended below the bowsprit. It is the only yard that is round in section along its whole length. Other yards are eight-square for the center quarters. Saw a foursquare stick to the given diameter and length. Mark out the plan on one side and plane or chisel down to the marks. Turn the stick 90°, repeat the mark-out and trim the yard to its foursquare shape. Mark out the yard, using the 7:10:7 rule, preparatory to cutting it eightsquare. Place the stick in your 45° jig and trim it to the marks. Next, round off the spar in the usual manner. There is a sling cleat attached to each side of the center of the yard. Sling cleats retain the suspension lines or slings in place. These cleats can be marked out and cut to the size and shape shown on your plan. The under surfaces of the cleats should be hollowed to match the diameter of the spar. Glue and pin the cleats in place. The sling cleats on the spritsail yard are oriented so that the cleats face downwards when the yard is completed and hung. (Note that on all the other yards, the sling cleats face forwards.) Stop cleats are much smaller than the latter and prevent the braces and lifts from sliding inward from the yard arms. Braces are control lines that turn the yard, and lifts are lines that help to suspend and trim the yard. Some model makers prefer to tenon these cleats into mortises cut into the yard for security because they are too small to pin. As they will not be under much stress, glue alone should hold, provided that the convex and concave surfaces match. Yards were usually blackened. You may paint or stain them as you wish. I stained mine with leather dye. Longridge used black shoe polish on his yards after dyeing them; but I did not, as it would interfere with glue adhesion.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

There is a considerable amount of preparatory work required before slinging the yard. The first order of business will be to attach the various blocks, stirrups and horses to the yard. In full-size practice, the stirrups and horses were usually rigged first. For model work, it is much easier to attach items in a different sequence. I would recommend proceeding in the order described below.

The rigged spritsail yard. Stirrups and horses are slung beneath the yard, the halliard block and strop at the center, the clueline block suspended outside of that, and the yard pendant and jib guy thimbles outermost. Read the text for full details of these features.

18.2 Spritsail halliard block and strop This block is stropped to the center of the yard between the sling cleats. A strop with an eye splice in each end has a thimble seized into the center of it. The strop should be lashed to the yard so that the thimble faces forward and upward, to compensate for the steeve of the bowsprit. A hook is stropped to a 7" single block with a 2½" strop. The hook, once engaged through the thimble on the yard, is moused. Mousing is a small lashing across the tip of the hook, recurved for that purpose, to prevent it from slipping off the thimble.

18.3 The spritsail halliard The spritsail halliard, in a small ship, consists of a single 7" block stropped with a thimble and hook. A 2" laniard is spliced into the strop at the other end of this block. The hook engages the eyebolt under the bowsprit cap. The laniard reeves down through the block on the yard, up through the block at the cap, then down and aft to belay on the first starboard timberhead. Delay rigging this halliard until you have slung the yard (see section 18.9).

18.4 Spritsail clueline blocks and strops The clueline blocks are for some of the tackle controlling the sail. The clue is the outer lower corner of a sail. The clueline blocks on the spritsail yard are 6" single ones with 1½" served strops. They are placed below the yard about 3' 0" outboard of the slings, one on each side. The strops are worked with an eye at each end and are lashed so that the seizings sit on top of the yard.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

18.5 Jib guy pendant thimbles and strops The jib guys are guided through thimbles on the upper sides of the spritsail yard. I would guess the strops to be of 2" served line, as Steel does not specify them. They are placed at the third quarter of the yard. I suspect that the stropped thimbles were slipped on over the yard arms before the stop cleats were nailed on. It may be possible to wiggle them over and past the cleats but, if not, either fake splice the strops under the yard or glue them to the yard with a simple butt joint.

18.6 Spritsail yard stirrups Stirrups are the vertical suspension lines to which the horses are attached. These are of 2" tarred line. In the full-sized ship the end of the stirrup that attached to the yard is unlaid and plaited into a flat, tapering tail. This is unnecessary for model work. The pendant end of each stirrup has a small thimble worked into an eye splice or is simply eye-spliced. The "tapered" end is wrapped around the yard three times so that the pendant part hangs from the aft side of the yard. In the real ship these turns would be nailed to the yard, but glue will suffice for model work. The thimble or eye should be positioned to hang 3' 0" below the yard. Allow at least 14' 0" of line per stirrup. There are two each side of the spritsail yard. Some method of stiffening the line will help it hang vertically.

18.7 Spritsail yard horses The horses are of 2½" tarred line. The outer ends have an eye splice that slips over the end of the yard arm. They are prevented from moving inward by the stop cleats. This part of the line is usually served. The line is then threaded through the stirrups and the inner end eye-spliced around the opposite side, three feet outside the slings. Alternatively the horses are attached to the eyes of the stirrups by lashings. The turns of the stirrup nearest the center of the yard on the opposite side will prevent the eye from sliding inward. Drape the horses between their suspension points in realistic catenary curves. Some modelers use dilute white glue to set the line, but I have found that this leaves an objectionable white deposit. Perhaps this depends on the brand and formula used. I have obtained better results with diluted acrylic matt medium. To shape the line, I use bent lengths of brass or copper wire in various diameters as micro-weights (photograph at right).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

18.8 The spritsail yard standing lift A standing lift was fitted as well as a running lift. The standing lift was a more permanent part of the rig, so I suppose that one could argue that this is part of the standing rigging! The lift consists of a 2½" line eye-spliced around the yard at about the third quarter (photograph opposite, dark lines running to the bowsprit cap). Delay completing the lift until the yard is slung (see section 18.9). Then take the lift up toward the bowsprit cap where a thimble is fitted into another eye splice. A second thimble is stropped with a hook. This hook is attached to the eyebolt at the side of the bowsprit cap and a ¾" laniard seized between the pair of thimbles. I opted to make these all of "tarred line". Another description of standing lifts, by Lees,48 describes a similar arrangement, except that the thimbles are replaced by small deadeyes. A pair of deadeyes, one each side, are stropped to the bowsprit a few feet forward of the slings. In large ships sometimes knots were made at intervals, as on the jibboom horses (see section 17.3). Delay tying off these lines until they all are rigged and their tensions adjusted.

18.9 The spritsail yard slings It is now time to sling or hang the yard under the bowsprit. Slings for a sixth rate are 18' 0" long and of 3½" served line with ¾" seizings. The line has an eye splice in one end and is run as indicated in the illustration (below right). The line is confined between the two sling cleats. The other end of the line is passed through the eye and doubles back to seize to itself. A difficulty that I found, once the various lifts, halliard and braces were fitted, was for the sprit yard to move forward in its slings from the combined pull of these lines. The weight of the yard would counteract this tendency in a full-sized ship. I drilled and fitted an unobtrusive wire peg under the bowsprit, just forward of the yard, to ensure that the sprit yard would hang as it should and not ride up the bowsprit.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 100.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

18.10 Spritsail yard lifts While these running lifts (not to be confused with the standing lifts that you have just completed) are rigged with blocks and tackle in larger ships; in a sixth rate they are more modestly attached by eye splices that slip over the ends of the yard arms to abut the horses. Lifts function as their name describes. They are made of 2" line. The lifts run forward from the yard arms through the thimbles at the end of the jibboom. They are then taken aft through the outer holes in the saddle on the bowsprit. They then belay to the bollard timberheads. Make sure that the lines do not foul other gear already rigged as you run them aft to the bollard timbers. Take several turns around the neck of the timberheads and then finish off neatly with a half-hitch.

18.11 Spritsail yard brace pendants Brace pendants are suspended from the yard arms. They are, in effect, long strops that are eyespliced around the yard arm, fitting against the horses on the stop cleats. 9" single blocks are stropped into the ends of the pendants . The pendants are part of the braces that control turning movement of the yard. The strop consists of 3" served and tarred line. I would make the pendants about 8' 0" long, once the eye and block are spliced in. Begin with about 11' 0" of line. The pendants slip over the ends of the yard next to the lifts (photograph, section 18.1, previous spread).

18.12 Spritsail yard braces These are of 2½" line. A very long length will be needed for this. The center of the line is clove hitched around the fore stay, just below the mouse. Each end passes through the 9" block at the end of the brace pendant (see section 18.11) and returns upward to run through the inner sheaves of the outermost blocks, both fore and aft, that hang below the fore top. From there, they run down to belay at the timberheads nearest the belfry (light lines, photograph above).

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Here drape the excess line over the rail in naturally hanging loops. Delay tying off anything until all lines on the spritsail yard have been rigged. Quite a bit of adjustment in tension will be needed in order for the yard to hang both horizontally and square.

18.13 Jib guy falls The jib guy pendants (see section 17.8) can now be fitted with their running rigging. These are the falls. For a sixth rate, eye-splice an 8" single block into the the pendant at a distance of about two-thirds the way between the spritsail yard and the cathead. Now splice the end of the 1½"fall line into the pendant at the far end of this block. Take another 8" single block and strop it with a hook and thimble at one end. This hooks into the eyebolt on the fore side of the cathead. Run the fall line in the usual way between the blocks. Repeat on the other side of the ship; then adjust the tensions both sides until equal. The end of each fall belays at a suitable timberhead along the forecastle, trying to get as direct and clear run as possible. Apart from a little tidying up, this completes the rigging to the bowsprit and sprit yard. Next is the running rigging to the jib traveler (see section 17.1).

18.14 Jib traveler outhaul This line attaches to the jib traveler ring shackle with an eye splice. It is of 2" line. The jib outhaul runs forward along the jibboom, through the sheave at the end and back inboard to belay to a suitable forecastle timberhead on the starboard side. In larger ships two single blocks and tackle, or a long tackle arrangement, augmented this. However, according to Lees,49 this was unnecessary in a small ship. For details of long tackle blocks, refer back to section 16.14.

18.15 The jib stay The jib stay also attaches to the jib traveler with a thimble and eye splice. It attaches inside the shackle adjacent to the hook on its starboard side. The stay is of 3" line. It runs up to the starboard side of the fore topmast head. Here you will now need to fit the cheek blocks, if you have not already done so (see section 14.14). Cheek blocks are fitted to both fore and main topmast heads, both port and starboard sides. You can get their dimensions and details from mast and spar drawings.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860, page 126.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

The stay runs through the upper sheave of the starboard cheek block, then down to the aft end of the starboard fore channel, or the stool if fitted. Larger ships have a block and tackle arrangement, with a single block stropped to one of the lower deadeyes. However, for a sixth rate it would be correct to tie off the line directly around the neck of one of the backstay deadeye bindings. Which deadeye you select depends on a clear run for the fall.

18.16 The fore and main yards These yards are very similar to each other, except in their dimensions. The center quarters are eight-square. At this period, the yards were not battened over the eight-square section. This was instituted at the end of the century. There are sling cleats either side of the center, located on the fore side of these yards, plus stop cleats at the yard arms. A typical yard is shown on the following page. Again, take the dimensions from your own drawing and progressively four-square, then eight-square the spar and round off as usual. All yards are blackened.

18.17 Studdingsail irons* *For ease of reading, "studdingsail" is abbreviated to "stunsail" in the following text.

There is some metalwork required for these yards. Studdingsail is pronounced "stun-sil" and often written as "stun’s’l" or "stunsail" to represent this. The outer irons fit over the ends of the yard arms and the inner irons are fixed to the yards a little inboard of the third quarter. This ironwork is best made of brass or copper. The details (illustration overleaf ) show their shape and size. You can cut sections from tubing of an appropriate diameter, rather than bending up these rings. I found it convenient to chuck a tube of the correct diameter in my lathe with a tube of the next size down fixed in the tailstock. This supported the tubing for turning and parting off. As each ring is parted off, the tube in the tailstock captures the ring. A drop of oil reduces friction between the two tubes. Remember to de-grease the rings before attempting to solder them! The arms of the irons are square in section. I made the inner iron’s arm 4" long and the outer one 10½" so that the boom will lie parallel to the long axis of the yard. Check the dimensions and geometry of your own yards before making the irons. I did not have square wire of suitable size, so had to cut the stock for these from brass sheet and then file them to the correct section.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Remember to make the first joint in the assembly with "hard" silver solder, and the next with "medium’"and the final joint with "easy." It is helpful to use a heat sink to protect the alreadysoldered joints. The irons are fitted to the yard 45° forward of vertical, as seen from the side. The outer irons at this time period were not fitted with rollers, as was the case a few years later. The inner irons are simpler and are also oriented at a 45° forward angle. I made the various straps separately and drilled them to take the stems of the irons. Blacken the completed assemblies as usual. Wait until the other fittings have been added (see below and ahead as far as section 18.24) before attaching the irons to the yards.

18.18 Blocks for the fore and main yards There are quite a number of blocks to be made and stropped for the fore and main yards (see the illustration opposite). A list of blocks required is given below. Table III 6 4 4 8 4

20" single 14" single 12" shoulder 12" double 11" double thin

Jeer blocks* Quarter blocks Topsail sheet blocks Jeer falls Yard tackle blocks

8 9" single 12 8" single 4 7" single 8 6" single

Clueline & lift blocks Buntline & brace blocks Leechline blocks Tricing line blocks

*Double stropped

I recommend following the sequence described here as easiest to manage. The quarter blocks should be rigged first. Quarter blocks are 14" single-sheaved blocks that carry the 4" topsail sheet falls. Drill the sheaves with a #66 drill. The strops are of 3½" served line with an eye formed at each end. The legs of the strops are uneven, so that the 1" seizing between the eyes will lie on the fore side of the yard. I know of no easy way to calculate the length of the strop. One has to take a length of line and experiment. As a starting point, the strops for my main yard quarter blocks were 6' 9" long, excluding the length needed to form the eye splices. Those for the fore yard were about 6' 6". Once you have seized each stropped block to the yard, slide the strop under the sling cleats.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Next are the 20" single jeer (sometimes spelled jear) blocks. Each yard has a single, central jeer block. It was only in larger ships that these were double-sheaved and paired. These are the blocks used for the tackle to raise and lower the lower yards. The jeer tyes are of 7" line, so use a #55 bit to drill the blocks. The jeer tye or tie is a particular arrangement of tackle line that will be detailed when it comes to raising the yard. Note that jeer blocks are double stropped, so file two grooves into the sides of these blocks (photograph on previous page). I decided to make the jeer blocks for the mast head (section 18.27) at the same time as those for the yards. These are also 20" single sheaved, double stropped blocks. A total of six blocks are required. Fitting the blocks for the tops will be described later.

The jeer block strops to the yard are of served line. You will need to begin with a length of line spliced into a loop. Again, some experimentation may be needed to determine the length of strop required. I found that, in this case, the main yard strop was 19' 0" long and the fore yard 18' 0" in length. This included about 6" of overlap for the splice. These strops are formed with a long and short leg ending in eyes that lie on the fore side of the yard. I found that by placing the block on the loop as shown, (illustration above) it gave the correct position to form the strop properly. The seizing of the strop is of 1" line. There are seizings that form the eyes at the ends of the strops’ loops. The seizing between these eyes is of 2" line. Moving outward along the yard, next are the clueline blocks. Clue lines run from the clue or clew of the main and fore courses or sails. The clues are the outer lower corners of a sail. The clueline

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

blocks are 9" single blocks carrying a 2½" fall. Their single strops, this time with even length legs, are of 2½" served line with an eye at each end. Strops 6' 0" between the eyes are about right for clueline blocks on the main yard and 5' 3" for the fore yard. Steel does not specify the seizing, but ¾" line is logical. Four blocks are needed, two each for the fore and the main yards. These blocks are placed just outside the sling cleats. To put adequate tension on the strops, seize them at a point further out along the yard and then slide them inboard to their correct position. The tricing lines are used for hauling up the yard pendant tackles. The latter are for hoisting casks, boats and other supplies from alongside to bring them inboard. When not in use, the tackle is hauled up against the yard by means of the tricing lines. The blocks for these are 6" singles attached to the aft side of the yard in the positions shown (illustration on previous spread). Tricing lines are 1½" in circumference. Their strops are also 1½" served line. A strop length between the eyes of 5' 6" is about right for the inner tricing blocks on the main yard and about 6" less for the fore yard. The outer blocks will need strops about 4' 0" long for the main yard and proportionately less for the fore yard. The legs of all these strops are equal in length. A total of eight blocks will be required for the two yards. I would rig the inner blocks now and the outer ones after seizing on the buntline and leechline blocks. Buntline blocks are next to be fitted. These are 8" single blocks in the positions shown (illustration on previous spread). I used a #76 drill bit for these blocks. The buntlines are of 2" rope that attach to the buntline cringles. Buntlines haul up the foot of the sail for furling. Buntline cringles are rope loops in the footrope that are sewn into and across the lower edge of the sails. These blocks are fitted with 2½" strops. Those on the main yard will be about 5' 0" between eyes and 6" less for the fore yard. These strops also have equal length legs. Leechline blocks are 7" single blocks with 2½" strops. The strops are about 4' 6" long between the eyes for the main yard and 6" less for the fore yard. For the blocks’ location on the yard, refer to the plan on the previous spread. Leechlines are of 2" line and attach to cringles in the leeches – the side edges – of the sail. Use a #76 drill for these blocks. Leechlines serve a similar purpose to the buntlines. The use of both these sets of lines is well illustrated in Petersson’s book.50 If you are interested in the handling of sails, I highly recommend the authoritive book by John Harland.51 50

Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, pages 70 and 72.

John Harland & Mark Myers, Seamanship in the Age of Sail, Naval Institute Press, 1984, ISBN 0-87021-955-3.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

18.19 Lower yard stirrups and horses Before proceeding to rig fore and main yard brace pendants, it is a good time to add the yard stirrups and horses. These are similar to those for the spritsail yard (see sections 18.6 and 18.7), other than the size of line used. The position of the stirrups along the yard can be taken from the plan drawing. The four stirrups are of 3½" line and the horses of 2½" line. Use the same techniques as you did before to rig them and to shape the catenary curves.

18.20 Lower yard tackle pendants and pendant blocks The yard pendant tackle blocks are 11" double thin ones. The description "thin" means that, proportionally, such a block is narrower than a standard or common block of the same size. In this instance they are about 3" thick instead of about 6". I was confused by Steel’s description into thinking that the blocks were conventional double ones. In fact, these are long tackle blocks, so I made mine 15" long. Their falls are of 2½" line, so drill with a #76 bit. The pendant of these tackles is of 4½" served line. Their length should be about 13' 0" before splicing in the eyes and blocks. The pendant is slipped over the yard arm and butts against the outboard end of the horse (see page 94). The function of yard tackles has already been described.

18.21 Lower yard brace pendants and pendant blocks Brace pendant blocks are 8" single common blocks attached to the yard by pendants of 3½" served line. I would make these pendants between 14' 0" and 18' 0" long before the eyes are spliced in. Lees 52 suggests that the pendants were between a quarter and a third the length of the yard on which they were carried. The block is spliced into one end of the line, and an eye splice is made at the other end. The falls of the braces are 2½" line so, again, use a #76 drill for the blocks. The brace pendant fits over the yard arm and rests against the yard tackle pendant.

18.22 Topsail sheet and lower yard lift blocks The topsail sheet blocks are 12" shoulder blocks and carry 4" falls. This line pulls the lower outer corners of the topsail, the clew, downward. I used a #66 drill for these blocks. You will need to use a slightly wider piece of stock than usual to cut the shoulder blocks from, as their shoulders protrude by a couple of inches (refer to the illustration in section 15.20, page 45). Their long strops are of 4½" served line. This strop also carries the lower yard lift blocks.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 188.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

The lower yard lift blocks are 9" single common blocks that carry a 3" line. These are stropped together with the topsail sheet blocks as shown in the illustration on page 94.

18.23 The truss pendants Both the fore and main yards have truss pendants attached. These prevent the yard from swinging away from the mast. A thimble, large enough to pass the line through, is eye-spliced into one end of each pendant. The pendants are of 4" line, 24' 0" long each. One pendant is then seized to the yard inside the sling cleats (illustration at right) with ¾" line. I would advise doing this now. I secured my truss pendants to the yard once it was in position, which was unnecessarily difficult to do. The falls for the pendants will be described in section 18.30.

18.24 Fitting the studdingsail irons Stunsail irons are the next items to be fitted. If you have not yet made them, refer back to section 18.17. Drill the yard and epoxy the inner irons and their straps in place. Their stems and rings are set at a 45° angle forward and above the yard. See the illustration on page 94 for their position along the yard. Wait until the epoxy has set before proceeding to fix the outer irons. These are also set at the same angle and have two iron hoops driven over their straps. These straps are pinned to the fore and aft sides of the yard. When you pin and epoxy the outer irons, slide the stunsail booms into position. If necessary, rotate the outer irons to ensure that the booms are in a straight line when viewed from abeam. Substitute small diameter dowel for this operation if the booms have not yet been made.

18.25 Lower yard studdingsail booms If not already made, these spars should be constructed and added now. Much simpler in shape than the yards, they are round in section and tapered along the outer two-thirds of their length. Their inboard ends are lashed to the yard. There is a hole bored through the inboard end of the booms to reeve the 2½" lash line through. This is rigged in a similar manner to the jibboom heel lashing (see section 14.27). However, I imagine that a stopper knot was used on the end of the line rather than an eye-splice, so that the line could easily be cast off.

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Some contemporary models 53 show the whole boom blackened, on others only the outer quarter of the stunsail booms are black,54 others have a few feet either end blackened. Other models show all booms in just natural wood.55 Any of these choices is appropriate. I imagine “Captain’s fancy” applies here. My stunsail booms were all made with a natural wood finish.

18.26 Crossing the fore and main lower yards Here a small "cheat" is in order. I drilled the fore side of the mast for a 1/16" diameter (actual size) short length of brass rod. I also drilled the aft side of the yard and pegged mast and yard together. This helps keep the yard at the correct height and will provide additional security in later years when rigging becomes fragile. If your model is fitted with slings (see section 18.32), then such a pin will be visible and will need to be removed later (see section 18.28).

18.27 Jeer tye blocks, strops and lashings The lower yards, in their raised position, are level with the futtock staves and catharpins. It is time to rig the jeer tye blocks to the tops now. These 20" single blocks are double stropped and have very long strops. I was puzzled by some of the visual references, including G.F. Campbell’s superb perspective drawing of Victory’s foretop.56 This, as well as other references, illustrate the double strop to the jeer block, but show a single strop and eye to the lashing around the mast head. This seems illogical. It apparently shows the heavy load from the yard distributed through two strop bights beneath the block. This load is then transmitted through a single bight and eye above. There is no explanation given as to how this transition is achieved, even were it mechanically sound. An example of this, although a little earlier, is seen on the National Maritime Museum model of Balchen’s Victory of 1737, old ref. no. 1737-1.

National Maritime Museum model of a 64-gun ship circa 1775, ref. SLR 0534.

NMM, model of Atalanta, 16 guns, circa 1775, ref. SLR 0340.

C.N. Longridge, The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships, Percival Marshall, London 1955 and more recent reprints, Plan No. 8, after page 212, and also Plate 76, facing page 261. 56

100

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

After much discussion on one of the Internet sites for ship modelers,57 I have come to the conclusion that the long leg should, in fact, be doubled as shown (illustration opposite). Although referring to a model of St George, a first rate of 1701, R.C. Anderson shows exactly this arrangement with a double strop.58 A much later example of the same arrangement, but with short bights, is also illustrated in Darcy Lever.59 The upper jeer blocks should sit below the top by about their own length; this appears to be the case on contemporary rigged models. They are suspended from lashings around the lower mast heads, which are retained by specialized cleats (illustration at right). I made these cleats in two pieces for ease of rigging the lashings. As they are stained or painted black, the joint is virtually invisible when the second piece is added after the lashing is complete. The double strop is very long; about 32' 0" of 7" line is about right for a sixth rate. The finished strop will be about 8' 0" long. Make the loop with its splice, then spot-glue the splice to the arse end of one of the grooves in the block. Put a piece of thin rod vertically in your vise, make a double loop around it and spot-glue the strop in the second groove of the block. This ensures that both loops and legs will be of equal length. Seize the strop to the block in the usual way with 1" line, and then seize the far ends of the loop together to form an eye. Ensure that this eye is large enough to take seven turns of 3" line, or you will have difficulty lashing the strop to the mast head.

Modelshipwrights, Yahoo Groups, correspondence with Rob Napier, Wayne Kempson, David Hill, Joel Sanborn and Neb Kehoe, July 2009.

R.C. Anderson, The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritmast Topsail, 1600-1720, The Marine Research Society, 1927, Fig. 164, page 139. 58

Darcy Lever, The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor, 1808, Algrove facsimile reprint, plate facing page 34, fig. 224.

101

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Beginning with the starboard tye block, pass its long strop up through the top from below. Make sure that it feeds up inside the stays. A fish is useful here. It is simply a length of wire with a hook at the end of it. You can hook the strop up under the stays with this. Loop the 3" lashing around the mast head and seize the end of the line to itself. Next, pass the line through the double eye of the strop, over the cleat on the opposite side, and around again (photograph at right). Adjust the turns of the lashing so that the tye block hangs at the correct level under the top. It is helpful to hang a small weight from under the block while you do this. The lashing is taken around a total of seven times before tying off. Repeat for the second block on the opposite side of the mast head. Make sure that both blocks hang at the same level. Finish by gluing in the closing pieces of the cleats above the lashings.

18.28 Jeer tyes and tackle For the fore yard tyes, take a 60' 0" length 60 of 7" line and splice a 12" double block into one end of it. Feed the line through one jeer block under the top, through the jeer block at the center of the yard and then through the other jeer block under the top. This line now forms the letter "M" (photograph at right). Splice in another 12" double block into the other end of the tye. Adjust the line so that both legs are of equal length and the yard hangs at the correct height. The pin securing the yard to the mast is helpful here. The main yard jeers requires 72' 0" of line. This length and others given in this book are taken from Steel’s tables in Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II, and tabular pages 121-129 (Sweetman page 236). In the original book lengths are quoted in fathoms, each fathom being equivalent to 6' 0". The foremast tye is quoted as 10 fathoms long. Also note that the length given by Steel (54 fathoms) is the total for both foremast tye falls described on the next page. 60

102

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

If rigging a model from after 1775, slings also suspend the lower yards (section 18.32). I suspect slings were fitted at a later date to smaller ships than large ones, but not to sixth rates. If the yard is pinned to the mast, the pin should now be removed, as slings move the yard forward, away from the mast. Take another 12" double block and strop it with a hook on one end and 2½" line for the tye falls or tackle on the other. Tackle is a generic term that refers to both the blocks and line in a system that gives mechanical advantage. This line should either be about 160' 0" long (fore yard falls), or at least long enough to reeve through the double blocks, through the jeer bitt sheave and to belay on the jeer bitts. One could add the rest of this line – about 40' 0" – separately as a coil that belays to the jeer bitts. Hook this block to a convenient eyebolt at the foot of the mast. Repeat this for the other side. Reeve the lines through the double blocks above and the ones below, making sure that the line does not cross or foul itself. After adjusting the system, secure the running ends to the jeer bitts. Steel calls for another 9" single block, presumably on deck, to lead the line to the bitts. However, I think that he is referring to the sheaves in the jeer bitt pins that are used for this purpose. Coil and drape the excess line over the top of the bitt pins, if not making the fall in two parts, as described below. The main yard will require 180' 0" of line.

18.29 Faking down Fakes are the turns or coils of line made when stowing excess line. Faking down is the process of doing this. There are many instances of falls where there is excess line to be neatly stowed. For model work it is much easier to make the belayed part of the line as a separate piece and then add it at the belaying point. My own method is as follows. Start with a length of line that is commensurate with the length required to work the fall. Wrap this around a tube or dowel of appropriate diameter for the location of the line. For instance, on the quarter deck rail, I used a ½" (actual size) diameter tube. To this I taped a needle longitudinally. Over this I wrapped the line around until almost expended. I then took one end and passed it under the coils beside the needle and tied them off with two half hitches. A dab of acrylic matt medium secured the hitches. The next step was to hang the coil, hitches uppermost, over a small diameter rod about 1/16" (actual) diameter. A length of 1⁄8" rod was suspended inside the coil to shape it. Dilute acrylic matt medium was then applied

103

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

to the loops. After setting, the coil was removed and placed over another jig to allow the lower part of the coil to be bent, as if draped over a rail, and set with the acrylic medium. I completed the job by cutting off one loose end of the coil and hiding it inside the loops and setting the other end to hang down naturally. The fall of the line was then threaded through the coil and belayed to the rail. The coil was then arranged over the fall and rail, secured with acrylic medium. A drill bit placed through the lower end of the coil helped weight and set the fake in a natural position (photograph, previous page).

18.30 The truss pendant tackle Pass the ends of each truss pendant behind the mast, around to the opposite side, and through the thimble of its opposite number (illustration in section 18.23). The ends of the truss pendants can now have 8" double blocks spliced or seized in. Drill these with a #76 bit. Their falls are smaller versions of the jeer falls (see the previous section). Another 8" double block with a 2½" strop hooks into a ringbolt on deck beside the mast. The tackle is of 2" line, each one 96' 0" long. Reeve the lines and secure the falls by several turns around themselves, finishing off with two half-hitches.

18.31 The nave line The nave line is a hitch that attaches to the truss pendants aft of the mast to prevent them droopping downward. Curiously, this small item of tackle is omitted from Steel’s tables for a sixth rate sloop. That is to say, the entry "nave line" is there, but all the columns succeeding it are blank. Either Steel’s proofreader overlooked the omission, or the pendants are light enough not to droop significantly in a small ship. The smallest vessel that this item is specified for is in a 20-gun ship. I chose not to fit nave lines in my model. In larger ships a span is eye-spliced around one pendant aft of the mast (illustrated in section 18.23). The span then passes through a thimble eye-spliced in the end of a second line. The other end of this span is eye-spliced around the other pendant. The thimbled line runs up to a single 6" or 7" block hung under the aft part of the top, then down toward the deck to belay on a small cleat attached to the aft side of the mast.

18.32 Slings Slings were fitted as standard after about 1775. That said, slings are not specified by Steel for any ship below 32 guns. They are described here merely for completeness. At first, slings were rigged as a safety measure. Chain slings were used in time of war. If the jeers and lifts were shot through, the yard was prevented from falling.

104

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Slings consist of a heavy served line, rather like a collar. An eye is spliced into one end. A thimble is seized in a little way along the sling from this eye (see the illustration at right). The line passes down through the small aperture in the front of the top so that the thimble is at the lowest point of the sling. The line then leads up through the hole in the top. It passes around the lower mast head on the port side. To prevent the loop from slipping down, a small cleat is nailed to the aft side of the mast head above the stays. The line is then taken back down and seized back to itself after passing though its own eye (illustration at right). Another shorter served line also has a thimble seized in and is spliced into a loop. It is taken around the center of the yard as shown, forward of the jeers. A laniard then connects the two thimbles. In practice, the jeers were eased off so that the slings supported the weight of the yard.

18.33 Lower yard lifts You have already fitted lift blocks to the yard arms in tandem with the topsail sheet blocks (section 18.22). There are also 9" single blocks fitted to the lower mast caps. There were two different ways in which this was done. When slings were fitted, they moved the yard further forward of the mast so that the lift line would clear the foremost topmast shroud. In this case, the blocks at the cap were fitted to a span around the cap between its holes. Prior to this, with the yard closer to the mast, the lift line would have fouled the foremost shroud. In this instance the block was fitted with a thimble and hook. This attached to the eyebolt on the fore part of the cap. I rigged the lifts on the Resolution model this way (photograph above).

105

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

As an aside, with slings fitted, the yard could be braced around more sharply when necessary before touching the foremost shrouds. Fit the single lift blocks with 3" strops, a thimble and hook on one end and a 3" fall line on the other. Allow 180' 0" of line for the fall. Attach the hook to the fore eyebolt on the cap. Reeve the line through the lift block at the yard arm from its inboard side, back though the block at the cap, down through the lubbers’ hole in the top to belay at a forecastle timberhead opposite the mast (fore mast) or quarter deck rail (main mast). An additional single purchase was added in larger ships. This hooked into the eyebolts in the channels opposite the mast before belaying. I had often wondered why the lift tackle was so slight. I finally realized that the "lifts" were, in fact, merely the means to trim the yard horizontally. The main weight of the yard was borne by the jeer tye or, as previously mentioned (section 18.32), by the slings if and when fitted. The illustration here shows the action of the various lines controlling the lower yards. Braces, sheets, and other lines will be dealt with later in the rigging process.

18.34 The cross-jack yard fittings The cross-jack yard (pronounced "crow-jack") is much simpler to fit out than the main and fore lower yards (illustration, opposite at top). By comparison, it seems quite bare! This is because the yard never carries a sail. Sometimes cross-jack yards were fitted with stirrups and horses. Whether or not to rig these, I leave to your discretion.61 I omitted them. The first block to attach is the 10" sling tye block at the center of the yard. (Steel specifies 11" for this block.) It is a single sheaved, single stropped block. The strop is of 3" line. Again, one will have to experiment to find the length of strop needed. Start with about 6' 6" of line. The seizing is ¾" line. This and the other 10" blocks were drilled with a #72 bit to take 3" line.

Three contemporary rigged models in the NMM (whose rigging may not be entirely original) do not have horses on their cross-jack yards. These are a 32-gun ship of c.1761, (possibly Lowestoffe, SLR 0339), a 64-gun ship of 1765, (SLR 0313) and Atalanta 1775 (SLR 0340). 61

106

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Next are the 10" quarter blocks. These are stropped with 3" line and lashed at the fore side of the yard with ¾" line in the same way as on the other lower yards. Moving out to the yard arms, there is a 2" brace pendant about 12' 0" long. One end of the pendant is eye-spliced over the yard arm and rests against the stop cleats. The 6" single brace block is spliced into the other end. Unlike the fore and main lower yards, this brace leads forward and across the ship. To improve the braces’ lead, the pendant is taken across in front of the yard for a distance of about 4' 0" and secured by a lashing around the yard. The only other blocks to populate the cross-jack yard are the 10" topsail sheet shoulder block and 6" lift block, attached to each other with a 1½" strop. This assembly goes on over the yard arm in the usual manner.

18.35 The cross-jack yard slings At this time period there were changes occurring in rigging practice. Until 1773 the crossjack yard was suspended by a sling. This 3" sling, 24' 0" long, had an eye-spliced into one end. The line was reeved through the block from port to starboard, up through the top, around the lower mast head above the shrouds, back down again, passed through the eye, doubled back, then was seized to itself. After this date, the slings were arranged in a similar way to that shown in the illustration and description in section 18.32.

107

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

18.36 The cross-jack truss Until about 177362 the cross-jack truss was rigged in the same way as that of the spritsail yard (see illustration in section 18.9). After this date a similar but slightly different arrangement to that of the fore and main lower yards was adopted. A thimble was seized into a length of line that was taken around the yard to port of center, inside the sling cleat. The end of a long line was seized around the yard, starboard of center, also inside the sling cleat. This line was then taken behind the mizzen mast, through the eye to port, then down. The line will then clear the gaff. A single block was seized into the end of this line. A single block and tackle was hooked to an eyebolt aft in the port mizzen channel. This being said, Steel omits the cross-jack truss from his tables in ships under 22 guns. (For these ships, Steel specifies a 3" truss, 2" falls and 7" blocks.) I would leave fitting a truss to your discretion. I opted to do so, as it controls the yard from moving fore and aft. However, I omitted the tackle and simply secured the truss fall to the rail.

18.37 Cross-jack yard lifts The lifts are rigged in exactly the same way as those for fore and main lower yards. The lift block at the lower mast cap is a 6" single one with a 1½" strop thimble and hook. The fall is of 1½" line. It belays inside the mizzen shrouds, either to the rail or a timberhead below the rail in earlier ships, or to the pin rail in the quarter deck bulwark in later ones.

18.38 Main stay tackles This is probably a good time to make and install the tackle used for lifting stores in and out of the hold and for hoisting the ship’s boats in and out of the waist. There were several possible arrangements for these tackles. There are two sets. The aft one, over the main hatch, called the main hatch stay tackle, has its pendant seized to the main stay (photograph, opposite page). This pendant is of 5" line, 21' 0" long. It has a small eye-spliced into the upper end for the seizing, which is of 1½" line. A 12" thin double block is spliced into the lower end of the pendant. Many illustrations show this block to be a long tackle block, but some models that I have seen show a regular thin double, as specified by Steel, which is what I opted to make. The lower block, a 12" thin single, (Steel specifies 13") has a 3½" strop with a thimble and hook.

108

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 81.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

The other end of this block has an eye for the standing end of the fall, which is of 3" line. Its running end belays to a cleat in the waist, starboard side.63 However, if led this way, the fall will foul the edge of the gangway. To avoid this, I belayed the line to the starboard side of the main topsail sheet crosspiece. The fore hatch stay tackle is similar to the main one, except that there is no pendant (photograph at right). The strop of the upper block is seized directly to the main stay above the fore hatch. The fall is belayed to the starboard side of the forecastle breastwork. The block, strop and fall sizes are identical to the main hatch stay tackle, although Steel specifies the lower block as an 11" single thin one. I decided to attach the hooks of the tackle to the pinnace in the waist, as if ready to hoist the boat off the spare spars. I then hooked the yard tackles (see next section) to the stay tackle, preparatory to swinging the boat outboard. Here I compromised slightly. In reality the fore yard would be braced around to starboard and the main yard to port to effect this operation. As I did not want to show the yards slewed, I justified this by imagining that the order to brace the yards around had not yet been given, so showed the main yard tackle slack and the fore yard tackle not yet attached.

18.39 Lower yard tackle falls In conjunction with the stay tackle, the yard tackle falls help swing loads in or outboard. The pendants and pendant blocks have already been described in section 18.20. The falls are 180' 0" long each, of 2½" line. There is a 9" single block stropped to a thimble and a hook at the lower end of the fall. The standing end of the fall is attached to the upper end of this block.

Ibid, page 175.

109

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The yard tackle fall then reeves through the smaller sheave in the pendant block from outboard to inboard, down through the single block, up through the large sheave in the pendant block, and down again (upper arrow, photograph opposite). The fore yard tackle fall belays to the second fore shroud (lower arrow, below) and the main to the third main shroud close to the deadeye 64. It seems that when not in use, the pendant was secured to the yard and the tackle unroved. This is what I showed on the port side of my model. In the photograph above, the port side pendant has not yet been secured.

18.40 The outer tricing line This is a 1½" line that is hitched to the yard tackle pendant at the block. The line is passed through the outer tricing line block (see section 18.18) and up to the top. This line is just visible in the photograph above. There is a small cleat on the fore part of the top to which the line belays. This cleat was a detail that I annoyingly omitted to add when making the tops. It was awkward to retrofit. The set-up is similar for both fore and main yards. However, Lees describes the fore yard outer line as belaying to the fore topsail sheet bitts "next to the upright" and the main yard one to the third main lower shroud.66 A word about making 1½" line. Unless you can find unusually fine thread for making this up on the ropewalk, you will need to improvise. My own method is to take regular thread and set it up as you would for spinning a 2½" line. Check the direction of twist on the thread, then run the headstock so that the threads untwist. Examine the threads carefully until they are fully unraveled. There should be three yarns per thread. Carefully cut one yarn and strip it out so that two yarns remain on each hook. Continue to make up the line in the usual way and a 1½" line should result.

18.41 The inner tricing line This 1½" line hitches around the tackle, close to the single block, when the tackle is not in use. If fitting this item, after the line is hitched around the tackle, it reeves through the inner tricing line block on the yard. It then passes down to belay on the first shroud near its deadeye. Lees describes the 64

110

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 175.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

fore yard inner line belaying to the third fore lower shroud and the main yard one to the gallows next to the upright.65 Again, when the yard tackle was not in use, the tackle was secured to the yard and the tricing line struck.

18.42 Fore yard braces It is now time to fit the lower yard braces. Beginning with the fore yard braces, two 9" single blocks are attached to the main stay. A block attaches to each end of a long span that is then clove hitched at the center around the stay. This span is longer than one might expect. I started with 14' 0" of 2½" line. By the time the blocks were spliced in and the clove hitch around the stay made, there was less than 4' 0" of line remaining on each side. The span is hitched just below the crowsfeet tackle. The brace is of 2½" line. The standing end of this line is hitched to the main stay just below the mouse. It runs forward to the single block on the yard pendant, through this, back through the block in the span on the stay, then down to the outer sheave of the main sheet bitts. The fall belays to the bitt crosspiece.

18.43 Main yard braces These braces are also of 2½" line. The standing end of each is hitched to an eyebolt in the ship’s side aft, above the quarter gallery or quarter badge. The line reeves though the single block on the brace pendant and back down through the fixed block at the aft end of the quarter deck (photograph at right, lower arrow). The line then belays to a cleat in the bulwark. If the rail is open, it belays to a timberhead forward of the fixed block or to the rail itself. Make sure that the belaying point is far forward enough so that the mizzen topsail braces and vangs (sections 19.10 and 19.11) have room to belay aft of the main brace, forward of the fixed blocks. This distance should not be less than 6' 0" to 8' 0" forward of the fixed block. 65

Ibid, page 175. The description of belaying points is of a model of Medway, 60 guns of 1742.

111

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

18.44 The crossjack yard braces These lead forward instead of aft. They cross each other (photograph previous page, upper arrow). The line is of 1½" rope. The standing end is hitched to the aftermost lower main shroud so that it is about level with the crossjack yard. The line is taken aft, through the block of the pendant on the opposite side, then across again. A 6" single block is lashed to the shroud by its strop a few feet below the standing end of the line. The line then reeves through this block and is taken down to belay at the quarter deck rail just aft of the main shrouds. I found that 2' 9" was about the correct length for stropping the 6" blocks. The lashing to the shroud was of ¾" line. Make sure that the line and block on one side are attached about one ratline lower than on the other. This ensures that the braces do not foul each other as they cross.

18.45 Preparing to raise the gaff There is some preparatory work required before raising the gaff. There are a number of blocks to be made and installed first. There is a parrel to be constructed. The parrel, in the case of the gaff, is a series of oval wooden beads threaded on a line that encircles the mizzen mast between the jaws of the gaff. Also, a block for the throat halliard needs to be installed on the mizzen trestle trees. The throat halliard is the equivalent of the jeers on a regular yard. These items will be described in their sequence of installation.

18.46 Brail blocks The brails are lines for hauling up the gaff sail to its yard. Three pairs of 6" blocks are attached to the gaff and hang below it (illustration above). Each pair is roughly equidistant from each other along the gaff. Use 2" line for the strops. Each pair of blocks is attached to the same strop. It will

112

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

be an exercise in patience to get the two blocks stropped just a few scale inches apart from each other. I recommend starting with a strop that is considerably longer than you will actually need, then trim it down after the blocks are stropped on.

18.47 The peak halliard block This 6" block is stropped with 2" line above the center of the gaff. The peak halliard holds the aft end of the gaff up.

18.48 The throat halliard blocks The throat halliard is the equivalent of the jeers and is used to haul the fore end of the gaff up the mizzen mast. A 7" single block is stropped to a thimble and hook. The strop is of 2" line. This hooks to the eyebolt in the top of the gaff jaws. A second 7" block is stropped with a long 2" span to the aft part of the mizzen trestle trees through the aft side of the lubbers’ hole (photograph at right). This is awkward to do now. I had recommended installing this earlier, in section 14.9. Don’t forget to eye splice the 2" halliard line to the lower end of the span under the block.

18.49 The gaff parrel The parrel is strung along a line between the jaws of the gaff. A hole needs to be bored through the sides of the jaws. A groove for this line is required on the inner side of the jaws so that it does not wear against the mast. The line has a wall knot in one end and is threaded through one hole from outside to in. A number of parrel beads called trucks are then threaded on to this line, which is taken around the fore side of the mast, threaded through the second hole in the jaws and knotted. In order for the trucks not to slip off the parrel while taking it around the mast, a dab of glue on the line temporarily holds the last truck until the line is threaded through the hole in the jaws. The parrel was kept somewhat loose to allow the gaff to be lowered down the mast. Trucks for parrels can be either turned (see section 19.26) or small beads of suitable shape found. The trucks are about 3" in diameter and slightly longer along the axis of their hole. Only five or six trucks will be required.

113

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

18.50 The gaff throat halliard The gaff is now almost ready to be raised. Reeve the throat halliard line as follows. Take the line down through the lower block, up again through the block under the top and down to the foot of the mizzen mast. Leave the line loose for the moment. Next, rig the gaff peak halliard.

18.51 The gaff peak halliard The standing end of this 1½" line is eyespliced around the aft end of the gaff just forward of the sheave. Take the line up through the double block on the aft side of the mizzen mast cap, down through the single block at the center of the gaff, up again through the second sheave and down the port side lubbers’ hole in the cap. Gradually hoist the gaff by alternately hauling on the throat and peak halliards until the jaws of the gaff are about 2' 0" below the level of the cross jack yard and the gaff is at an angle of about 35° to 40° from the horizontal. This operation was trickier than I thought it would be. A small weight (I used a Bulldog clip) on the end of the gaff will help when trimming, as the vangs, (section 19.11) which act as downhauls and braces, have yet to be fitted. Belay each halliard to a cleat at the foot of the mizzen mast.

18.52 Mizzen topsail yard brace blocks Next to go over the end of the gaff are the pair of 5" blocks for the mizzen topsail yard braces. These are stropped on a single 1½" strop in a similar manner to the brail blocks (see section 18.46), but on either side of the gaff (illustration on previous spread).

18.53 The ensign halliard block There is a small block attached to the sprig or eyebolt at the end of the gaff. Steel does not specify its size, but a 4" or 5" single block seems about right, as the halliard is of ¾" line. Seize the strop to the eye of the sprig with a fine line. Before completing rigging to the gaff, it will be necessary to cross the mizzen topsail yard. This item and its fittings properly belong in the following chapter.

114

CHAPTER NINETEEN

his chapter will cover the rigging to, and of, the topsail yards. As completion of rigging to the gaff cannot be carried out until the mizzen topsail yard is fitted (and, in the case of ships carrying a mizzen topgallant, that yard as well), this spar will be discussed first. As you proceed through this chapter, you will find that the descriptions are quite repetitive and similar in many ways to the rigging of the lower yards.

19.1 The mizzen topsail yard This is a special case where no topgallant mast is carried. The topsail yard is dealt with as if it were a topgallant yard. However, if there is a mizzen topgallant above, it is rigged in a similar manner to the fore and main topsail yards; see section 19.14 onwards.

19.2 Mizzen topsail yard horses and stirrups The first items to rig on this yard are the horses and stirrups. Both are of 2" line. According to Steel, there are two stirrups on each side. However, I treated this yard as a topgallant and installed only one a side (illustration below). Rig these in the usual way.

19.3 Mizzen topsail yard sheet blocks These are 10" single blocks stropped with 3½" line. They are fitted just outboard of the sling cleats in the same manner as for the lower yards, the lashing to sit on the fore side of the yard.

19.4 Mizzen topsail yard clueline blocks There are 5" single clueline blocks stropped near the inboard sides of the first quarters of the yard. The strops are of 1½" line.

115

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

19.5 Mizzen topsail yard brace pendants The brace pendants go on over the yard arms next. They are about 8' 0" long and of 1½" line. Each pendant has a 5" single block spliced into its end. The brace itself is also 1½" line, so drill the blocks with a #76 bit for adequate clearance.

19.6 Mizzen topsail yard truss parrel This was fitted to topgallant yards as an alternative to parrels. However, the mizzen topsail yard was treated as a topgallant on ships without a mizzen topgallant mast. Parrels, more usually fitted, are described in sections 19.26 and 20.5. The truss parrel arrangement is more easily shown than described (illustration at right). There are two 2½" served strops, one short and the other long. The short leg lies to port. These are lashed together around the topmast as illustrated. About a 5' 0" length of line for the long strop and another of 4' 0" for the short one is about right. Steel does not specify them, however, ¾" or 1" lashings would be appropriate once the yard is crossed. It is not easy to thread and bowse (tighten) the lashing, as it is hard to reach at this stage of rigging.

19.7 Mizzen topsail yard tye and halliards To cross the yard, the tye, of 3" untarred line, is hitched directly to the center of the yard (see also illustration, section 20.4). Alternatively, make an eye splice in the end of the line and pass the line through its own eye. The tye is taken up the front of the topmast and through the sheave below the hounds. It passes down aft of the mast and an 8" single block is spliced into the end of the tye. To determine the length of the tye, see the following paragraph. There is another 8" single block stropped to the starboard trestletree aft of the mast. Alternatively a hook and thimble are attached to an eyebolt in this position. The strop for this block is of 2½" line. The 2" halliard fall is eyespliced to the strop of the upper block. It is taken down and through the lower block, up around the upper one, then down through the top to belay near the deck to a cleat on the starboard side of the mizzen mast (photograph opposite page).

116

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

Unless you are planning on adding sails, the topsail and topgallant yards should be shown in their lowered positions a few feet above the mast caps. The height of the yards should be such that the horses should just clear the mast caps below them. Adjust the lengths of the tye and halliards accordingly. Again, you will find it helpful to secure the yard to the front of the mast with a hidden pin. Otherwise, when rigging the lifts, there is insufficient weight to prevent the yard from rising and the tye will slack off. The angle of the braces here will be too horizontal to pull the yard downward, unlike the lower yard braces. However, if you are planning on fitting sails, the yards will be raised and the pull of the braces will be directed downward, so this will not be an issue.

19.8 Mizzen topsail yard lift blocks The model of Medway, 1742 has no mizzen topgallant mast or yard. There appear to be topsail yard lift blocks fitted.66 However, single lifts without blocks at the yard arms are also a distinct possibility for a ship of this size. If fitting lift blocks, they should be 5" ones with 1½" strops, otherwise the standing ends of the lifts should be simply be eye-spliced over the yard arms. I opted for the latter method. However, if your model has a mizzen topgallant mast, both lift and topgallant sheet blocks should definitely be fitted.

19.9 Mizzen topsail yard lifts The lifts are of 1½" line. Assuming that you are fitting single lifts, make an eye splice at one end of the line and slip it over the yard arm (photograph above). The line passes through the lower sheave of the sister block in the topmast shrouds, then down through the top to belay at the rail inside the mizzen shrouds. Repeat on the other side.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, photograph 15, between pages 39 and 40.

117

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

19.10 Mizzen topsail yard braces The brace lines are also of 1½" line. The standing end of each brace is eye-spliced around the aft end of the gaff. It is then taken forward through the block on the brace pendant, aft again through the single block on the gaff, then down. It passes through a lead block hooked to the outer eyebolt on the quarter piece, (photograph at right) then through the second sheave of the fixed block that you reeved the main brace through, and finally belays inboard to either a small cleat, if the bulwark is a solid built-up one, or to the quarter deck rail if not. I would advise not to adjust or belay these lines until the vangs to the gaff have also been rigged; see the following section.

19.11 The vangs The vangs control the swing of the gaff. There is a pendant each side of the gaff peak of 3" line with a 6" single block spliced into each end. (In larger ships a long tackle block would have been used, thereby increasing the purchase.) Make the pendant 42' 0" long and clove hitch it at its center over the end of the gaff. Make sure that the blocks at the ends are at the same level (photograph on opposite page). The falls are of 1½" line. There is another 6" single lead block, stropped with 1½" line, with a hook that attaches to the second eyebolt in the quarter piece. The fall attaches to the upper end of this hooked block. It runs upward, through the block at the pendant, down again through the lead block and then inboard through the third sheave in the fixed block aft. The fall is belayed to the rail or to a cleat if the bulwark is solid. Once the vangs are rigged, you can adjust the tension of the vang and mizzen topsail yard brace falls until the yard is squared and the gaff in a fore-and-aft position. The lines can then be secured and faked down.

19.12 Ensign halliards The last item needed to complete the mizzen rigging is the means to raise and lower the ensign. There is a small sprig or eyebolt on the end of the gaff, to which a 4" single block is stropped. At this size, I found it easier to use a piece of fine soft wire than to attempt to splice a strop through the eye and around the block. If you are going to show a hoisted ensign, you will need to give some thought to the method of making a natural looking flag that drapes realistically.

118

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

19.13 Ensign and jack There are many possible methods of making flags and ensigns. Mr. Gus Agustin of Illinois has produced the most effective flags I have seen. He uses plain bond paper for his exquisite miniatures. I would be a little concerned about the acid content in bond paper for longevity. I would recommend using thin, acid-free paper. There are many excellent references on the subject of flags and ensigns, both on the Internet (check "vexillology") and in published form. It was difficult to determine the method of hoisting an ensign during this time period. I had overlooked a description given by Steel. However, a correspondent helpfully supplied the following: Flags and pendants are hoisted by haliards (sic) which reeve through sheaves in the trucks at the mastheads or small-blocks, seized where wanted. The two ends of the haliards splice together, and reach down to the tops, or down upon deck, and belay; one part of the haliards is bent to the upper part of the tabling, to the lower end, and to several places between; and, in proportion as one is hoisted upon, the other is eased away, until the flag is hoisted. The haliards are then belayed.67

There are a number of questions concerning the size and proportions of historical flags. The proportion 2:3 is often quoted, as is 11:18. An actual surviving jack from the battle of Trafalgar measures 7' 4" by 11' 7", which is very close to the former ratio.68

Steel, The Art of Rigging, 1818 edition, page 115. Internet correspondence with Wayne R. Kempson, December 2009. Also in Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 231, item Flags (Sweetman page 254). 67

As reported by the BBC, October 29, 2009. The jack from Spartiate, 74 guns, documented as flown at Trafalgar, was sold by Miller Auctions, England, on this date. 68

119

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The colors of this flag were relatively unfaded, having been stored in the dark. The red is still bright, the white is an unbleached cotton color, while the blue is a very dark ultramarine, close to an indigo shade. Although this flag is that of the Union of 1801, I decided to use these colors, but obviously not the design, on my own flags. While studying historical paintings, I observed that the white diagonal St Andrew’s cross was consistently shown as very narrow, unlike on modern Union flags. The white outline around the red St George’s cross, the fimbriation, was actually a little wider than the St Andrew’s cross. These features are conveniently shown on the cover of Alec A. Purves’ book.69 The other point about flags and ensigns is that the material used had a very light, loose weave. In old marine paintings the flags often appear translucent. I had thought that this was due to the age of the painting and that the paint film had become transparent, but this is not so. The color photograph of the auctioned jack mentioned above shows that it is, in fact, somewhat translucent. The weave is coarse and loose and looks somewhat like burlap. I decided to try to emulate this translucency with my own flags. I experimented with various Japanese rice papers. Some are as thin as tissue. Rice paper also has good strength when wet, something to be considered when painting and arranging the flag. A selection of papers is available from better fine art stores. I began by laying out the proportions of the jack and ensign to scale size. I decided on a jack that was 5' 0" by 7' 8" and the ensign 12' 0" by 18' 4", exclusive of the reinforcing hoist cloth (photograph at right). The hoist is the reinforcing canvas along the side that attaches to the halliard. Judging from contemporary paintings, the depth of flags and ensigns were about two thirds of the length of the staff on which they were flown. I based the sizes of my flags on this rule of thumb.

120

Alec A. Purves, Flags for Ship Modelers and Marine Artists, Conway Maritime Press edition, 1983.

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

The paper was laid over the pattern and the design lightly traced, as it was clearly visible through the paper. The piece was then taped to a piece of board and carefully painted (photograph at right). A word about painting on paper: when wet, paper expands, but usually more in one direction than the other. This results in buckling. In order to obviate this problem, the paper will need to be pre-stretched. In order to do this effectively, the paper is first wetted and laid out on a flat surface. As it begins to dry, the paper first expands, then contracts. Wait until it begins to dry. In other words, watch until the shiny wet appearance of the surface just begins to dull. Then it is ready to tape down. The most effective tape is brown, gummed paper tape. Once commonly available, it is still obtainable by the roll from art supply stores. Water colorists use this to stretch their paper. Dampen the tape and smooth it down, allowing a fair overlap on the paper. Leave everything until thoroughly dry, when the paper surface will be smooth and taut. Provided it has been stretched properly, it will not buckle now if wetted. I used fine watercolor brushes and acrylic paint to color the flags. Because the paper is so thin, I painted the "white" areas as well. I found that otherwise, when wetting the flag to shape it, the paper tended to tear along the unpainted strips. Incidentally, I used toned paint, as pure white looked visually obtrusive. When dry, the paper was released and turned over, re-taped and the second side painted. It was easy to see the boundaries of the different colors through the paper. When dry again, the flag was carefully trimmed out and held in a clip along its hoist. It was then wetted with a brush, draped and left to dry again. It took several attempts to get a flag with a drape that looked aesthetically pleasing. To hoist the jack, the halliard is specified as 48' 0" of ¾" line. I used white line, although this was not clearly specified. One end is either seized to the staff, belayed to the small cleat near the foot of the jackstaff, or the two ends seized as Steel describes after the line is taken up through one of the sheaves in the truck. The jack is bent to the halliard by "rope bands" of 2lb white marline.70

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II, tabular page 129. Standard marline weighed only 1lb per 40 fathom length, so this would be more substantial (Steel, Volume I, page 65, no Sweetman reference). 70

121

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Marline is defined by Steel as made up of two rather than three strands.73 I would space these lines about 9" apart, which appears to be the case on the jack from Spartiate. At 1:48 scale I opted to paint the bands on along the hoist for neatness (photograph previous page; also see the color section). The ensign is similarly hoisted on the ensign staff with 72' 0" of ¾" line. The flag is then carefully glued to the halliard before raising it.

19.14 Main and fore topsail yards These yards are similar to the lower yards but proportionately smaller. There are some minor differences, though. At the outer end there are sheaves cut vertically through the yard (illustration below). The outermost ones are for the reef tackle falls; they are part of the gear controlling the topsails. The inner ones are for the topgallant sheet and clueline. As the reef tackles are of 1½" line, drill with a #76 bit. The inner sheaves need to accommodate 2" line, so use a #72 bit. It is easiest to drill and shape these sheaves while the yards are eight-square. I did not fit real sheaves, but shaped mine in the same way as I did the sheaves for the blocks (see section 15.38).

19.15 Tye block and buntline blocks At the center of the yard is a 14" single block for the yard tye. It is attached with a 4" strop 6' 0" long. The strop is eye-spliced at each end and the block lashed in. A 1" laniard is passed through the strop eyes and around the yard. Before tightening the lashing of the strop around the block, two 7" single buntline blocks are stropped together with a 2" strop, end to end. The buntline blocks are then held in the tye block strop as shown above. 73

122

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, pages 65 and 169, item Lines (Sweetman page 123).

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

19.16 Topgallant sheet blocks A 6" single block in a 2" strop is lashed to the yard just outside the sling cleats. The strop is eyespliced and secured to the yard in the usual way with a ¾" lashing.

19.17 Topsail clueline blocks An 8" single block is stropped with a 2½" strop to the yard a little inside the first quarter on each side. The lashing is of ¾" line.

19.18 Topsail yard stirrups and horses The stirrups, of 2" line, are identical to those on the lower yards (see sections 18.6, 18.7 and 18.19). The horses are of 3" line. The inner ends are eye-spliced outside the slings of the opposite side and the outer ends eye-spliced over the outer ends of the yard arm.

19.19 Brace pendants The brace pendants to the topsail yards are of 3" line, each 18' 0" long. An 8" single block is spliced into one end. The other end is eye-spliced to fit the yard arm. It snugs up to the eye splice in the outer end of the horse at the stop cleats.

19.20 Lift blocks The lift blocks at the yard arm are 8" single ones held by a 2½" strop. The strop slips over the end of the yard arm and fits up against the brace pendant just fitted.

19.21 Boom irons to the topsail yards The inner irons are smaller versions of the lower yard irons, but the outer irons are different (illustration at right). The stem of the iron projects in line with the yard. It is square in section except for the outer end, which has a square shoulder and is threaded. The iron itself is slipped onto the end of the stem and secured by a square nut.74 Of course, this arrangement could be simplified for model purposes. Two iron hoops secure the arms of each boom iron (illustration opposite). 74

Ibid, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, Plate 5 (Sweetman Plate VI, back pocket).

123

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

19.22 Flemish horses These are additional horses rigged to the outboard ends of the yard. They run from the tip of the yard arm to about the same distance inboard of the stop cleats (illustration on previous spread). They have eye splices at each end. The outer end was sometimes lashed to a stropped thimble around the end of the yard. I rigged mine so that the outer eye splice abuts the outboard side of the outer hoop of the boom iron. The Flemish horses should be of 3" line, as are the other horses.

19.23 Upper studdingsail booms These are smaller versions of the lower stunsail booms. They are lashed to the yard at their inboard ends. Use 2" line. Thread the lash line through the hole in the inboard end of the boom. Tie a stopper knot in the far end of the line and pull it through until the knot engages. Take five turns of the line around the yard and boom followed by two or three cross-turns and hitch off.

19.24 Topsail yard tyes The arrangement for the fore and main topsail yards consists of two tyes. There are 14" single blocks, port and starboard, suspended on long strops from the topmast head. The strops are of 4" line. The starboard strop is fitted first, just above the stack of shrouds and stays, then the port strop. The length of these is such that the blocks are suspended about a block’s length below the under side of the trestle trees. The strop passes down between the middle and aft topmast cross-trees, then inside the stays (photograph at right). There should be just enough space to pass the strop through. If you have already fitted the mast cap, topgallant masts and shrouds, you will have to cheat in order to loop these strops around the mast head. I used about 13' 0" of strop for each starboard tye and about 6" longer for the port one. The best place to hide a joint in the strop will be between the topmast and topgallant mast. The legs of the strop are also seized together around the topmast head, similarly to the shrouds. A distance of 3' 0" between the two seizings will be about right. The tyes themselves are of 4½" line. The standing end of the port tye is suspended from the starboard side of the mast head. Make a small eye splice in one end of the tye. Take the line around the mast head just above the tye strops and thread the free end through this eye. The line passes down between the fore and middle topmast crosstrees and inside the stays. Take the line through

124

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

the aft sheave of the double tye block on the yard. The line passes up through the port side single block below the trestle trees from forward to aft. It passes down again to end with a 14" double thin block spliced into the end. The length of the tye is such that this double block is at about the height of the mast cap when the yard is in its lowered position. 72' 0" of line for the fore topsail yard and 78' 0" for the main topsail yard were required for my model. The starboard tye is the mirror image of the port one just described, with the exception that the line passes through the fore sheave of the double block on the yard. Incidentally, the illustration of these in Lees’ book 75 is somewhat misleading, as the standing ends of the tyes are omitted, and his description is rather sketchy.

19.25 Fore and main topmast yard tye falls The falls to the tyes are of 2½" line. There are both a double and a single 14" thin block to each tackle. The double has already been spliced into the running end of the tye. The single has a thimble and hook attached with a 3½" strop. This hook attaches to the ringbolt in the after end of the channel. Petersson 76 shows the strop to this block as a long one, long enough for the block to clear the bulwarks or timberheads (photograph at right). These appear to be about 5' 0" long, so that the lower block is above the level of the deadeyes. I found that each fall required 240' 0" of line. However, Steel 77 specifies only 36 fathoms or 216' 0". The standing end of the fall is eyespliced to the strop at the upper end of the single block, then is taken up through the double, down through the single, up once more through the second sheave of the double block, and down to the deck again to belay to the rail (main topsail yard tye) or convenient timberhead or cavil cleat (fore topsail yard tye). Make sure that this line does not foul any of the backstays.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 83.

Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, pages 39 & 40.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume II, tabular page 123, no Sweetman reference.

125

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

19.26 Fore and main topmast yard parrels The parrels consist of trucks (as for the gaff) and ribs. The parrel ribs are thin "B" shaped pieces of wood that separate the trucks. For the fore and main topsail yards the ribs are 14" long. Their shape and size is given on the scale drawing in section 19.14. The parrel ribs have a maximum width of 4" and are just over an inch thick. The trucks have a diameter of 4" and are 5¾" long. You will need six ribs and ten trucks per parrel, as there are two rows of trucks. I cut strips of wood to the width and thickness of the ribs and white-glued 14" lengths together to form a sandwich (photograph above, top). These were drilled with a #76 bit, shaped, and then separated by immersion in isopropanol. The trucks were turned on my lathe. In order not to lose them while parting off, the center of the stock was drilled first and then the truck shaped. The bit was partially withdrawn before parting off the truck. The completed truck then remained captured on the tip of the drill bit (photograph middle right). This saved much frustration, bad language and time! I then stained and polished the trucks in the same manner as the blocks. There are two parrel ropes for each parrel. These are of 2" line and are each 24' 0" long. As this is standing rigging, I used "tarred" dark-colored line. Make a small eye splice in one end of each line. Attach a lash-line to one eye (lower photograph above). Thread the other end of each line through a rib, then a parrel alternately. Once six ribs and five trucks have been threaded onto each line, pass the assembly behind the topmast at the level of the yard. Take one eye-spliced end and pass it over the yard to port. Pass the other under the yard and lash the eyes together in front of the yard. Pass the loose ends of the parrel ropes above and below the yard on the starboard side.

126

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

In order to secure the parrel, I found it helpful to use some dilute acrylic matt medium to arrange and hold the parrel ribs and beads in position around the topmast. Take the ends of the parrel ropes and pass them behind the parrel so that the lines lie in the hollow of the ribs, around the yard to port and back again. Continue alternating the lines until you have expended them. Complete by lashing the ends neatly to earlier turns of the line. You will find this exacting work to carry out inside the rigging already in place (photograph at right). According to Lees, there was some slack in the system to enable yards to be sharply braced.

19.27 Fore and main topsail yard lifts The next items of rigging are the topsail yard lifts. The blocks for these at the yard arms are already in place. The lifts are attached to a span around the topmast caps. A span is a short piece of rope with a block or thimble spliced into each end. In this case, thimbles are used. The span is clove hitched athwartships around the center of the cap, between the topgallant mast and the tenon of the topmast. The span is 30' 0" long and is of 2½" tarred line. Eye splice in the thimbles at each end and hitch the span as described. Each 2½" lift is eye-spliced to a thimble. It is taken down between the first and second topgallant shrouds, through the block at the yard arm, inboard through the topgallant futtock shrouds around the lower sheave of the sister block in the topmast shrouds and down through the hole in the top to belay at the rail (main) or timberhead (fore topsail yard lift). However, if rigging topgallant sails, please read section 24.4, as the run of the lifts is somewhat different in this case. There was some variation in the way the lifts were rigged and belayed. Occasionally, instead of using sister blocks, single 8" blocks were substituted. These were suspended either side of the topmast head by 2½" pendants. The pendants were just long enough for the blocks to clear beneath the trestle trees inside the stays. Lees 78 suggests that this latter method was used until about 1790. The lifts could alternatively be belayed at the fourth main shroud and third fore shroud respectively instead. Although not specified, I assume that shroud cleats were used for this purpose.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, illustrations on page 85.

127

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

19.28 The main topsail yard braces The pendants have already been made and fitted (section 19.19). The falls are of 2" line. Before fitting the falls, a span of 3½" tarred line needs to be made up with an 8" single block eye-spliced into each end. This span is 21' 0" long. It is clove hitched around the mizzen mast just below the hounds. Petersson 79 shows this span in the wrong position; it would foul the crossjack yard and gaff if either were to be lowered. In fairness to Petersson, I suspect it is the model he has used as his subject that is incorrectly rigged, as there are other anomalies on his drawings that are definitely later than 1785. The plate of running rigging in Steel 80 clearly shows the braces leading above the crossjack yard, as does Sutherland.81 The span needs to be positioned only just above the cross-jack yard. If placed any higher, the fall will foul the mizzen crowsfooting. In my model I placed the span just below the single woolding under the hounds (photograph at right, arrowed). To thread it around clear of the gaff throat halliard and other lines is tricky. In retrospect, it would have been better to hitch this span much earlier on in the rigging process. (See the notes at the end of Chapter 15). The falls are 150' 0" long each, according to Steel. The standing end is hitched around the span on its own side between the block and the mast. (By the 1790’s this had changed, and the standing ends of the line were fastened to the collar of the mizzen stay. This was now possible as crowsfooting had been abandoned. Otherwise, run in this manner, the falls would have fouled the outermost lines of the crowsfeet.) The fall line reeves through the block in the pendant, then back through the block in the span, and down to the deck where it is belayed to either one of the cleats at the foot of the mizzen mast or to the mizzen topsail sheet bitts, if fitted. In the case of Resolution, the former method was used. 79

Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, page 43.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, plate facing page 209, The Running Rigging of a Twenty Gun Ship (Sweetman page 168). 80

128

Sutherland, Ship Building Unveiled, 1711; reproduced in Lees, photograph 86, section IV.

CHAPTER

NINETEEN

19.29 The fore topsail yard braces These are rigged in a similar manner to the main topsail yard braces. The span is clove hitched around the main stay below the fore yard brace blocks. Steel does not provide a specification for this span. 10' 0" of 3" line will be sufficient, as photographs of contemporary models 82 show a foot or so of span on each side of the stay. I found that if it was any shorter, it made it impossible to thread the blocks through the loop in the span to make the hitch. The standing end of each halliard is hitched to the main stay just below the standing ends of the fore braces. The lines pass forward up to the blocks on each pendant, down to the blocks on the span, then forward along the main stay to a second, similar, short span. This span is also fitted with two 8" single blocks, one on each side of the stay. It is located above the belfry. The lines then belay near the inner ends of the forecastle breastwork rails. This completes work on running rigging to the topsail yards.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, photograph 3, section I, and photograph 41, section II. This example is of a model of Medway of 1742.

129

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

130

CHAPTER T WENT Y

CHAPTER TWENTY

t is finally time to rig the fore and main topgallant yards. As for the other yards, there are a number of blocks and lines to be attached to them first. However, unlike the lower and topsail yards, there are comparatively few items to be made and fitted, so the work will proceed much more quickly.

20.1 Topgallant yard clueline blocks These are 5" single blocks that are stropped with 1" line with eye splices at each end of the strop in the usual way. One block is lashed to the topgallant yard on each side, 3' 0" outside the sling cleats (illustration at right). This is about the point where the eight-square transitions into the round portion of the yard. It will be a challenge to eye splice and seize these small blocks into their strops. I used 8/0 fly-tying silk to lash the block and strop assembly to the yard.

20.2 Topgallant yard jewel blocks These are fitted to the ends of the yard arms only if topgallant studdingsails are carried. Steel does not specify these, but 5" single blocks seized to the sprigs (eyebolts) at the end of the yards would be appropriate (illustration 43).

20.3 Topgallant yard horses These are of 1½" tarred line and are eye-spliced around the yard arm and outside the clueline block of the opposite side. There are no stirrups required for the topgallant yards.

131

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

20.4 Topgallant yard tyes The tyes to the topgallant yards are hitched to the center of the yard. They are of 2" (untarred) line and are 57' 0" long for the main topgallant and 54' 0" long for the fore topgallant. The tye is taken up the fore side of the topgallant mast, through the sheave in the hounds, and down the aft side. A 5" single block is then eyespliced into the end of the line. A 1" fall line for the halliard eye is spliced at the lower end of the block (see section 20.6). With the yard lowered, the block should be at a level of about one-third the way down the topmast (photograph at right). It will be far easier to rig this line in reverse. Eye splice the halliard line to the tye and then splice in the single block. Pass the other end of the line through the sheave in the topgallant mast head from the aft side. Now hitch the line to the center of the yard. I had to search many sources to determine the type of hitch used. I finally came across a diagram that clarified this (illustration at right).83 Once again, I used a brass pin between mast and yard to assist rigging and trimming the yard at the height that I wanted.

20.5 Topgallant yard parrels These are smaller versions of the ones fitted to the topsail yards. The parrel ribs are 6" long, 2¼" wide and ½" thick. Use a similar technique as for the topsail yard trucks to make these. The parrel trucks are 2" in diameter and 2½" long. They are quite a challenge to turn and part off without losing them at this size. Take very fine cuts to prevent the stock from disintegrating.

After R. J. Collins, Model Engineer, September 5, 1957, Volume 17, No. 2937, illustration 118 on page 327. 83

132

CHAPTER T WENT Y

The parrel ropes are 7' 6" long and of 1" tarred line. The assembly of the parrels and seizing the ropes is identical to those for the topsail yards (section 19.26). To make rigging them easier, use longer lines and then cut them to length after seizing them.

20.6 Fore and main topgallant tye halliards Each tye is fitted with 1" line for the halliard (see section 20.4). These lines are about 140' 0" long. There is a 5" single block stropped and hooked to a small eyebolt on the aft side of the fore top (see section 15.37). This eyebolt should have been installed earlier. (I had omitted to do this, which introduced a new difficulty at this stage.) The halliard to the fore topgallant yard passes through this lower block, through the upper one at the end of the tye, and down through the top to belay at the fore jeer bitts. In the case of Resolution, no such bitts were indicated on the draughts nor is there space for them aft of the fore mast. It made sense for me to belay the line where there was space on the forecastle breast rail, starboard side. The main topgallant yard tye falls are rigged in a similar fashion, except that the fall line passes through the hole in the top, between the second and third catharpins, and belays to the main jeer bitt cross piece.

20.7 Fore topgallant yard braces The braces in a small ship are single and do not have pendants. 162' 0" of 1½" line is eye-spliced at one end. This is slipped over the yard arm. The line is taken aft to one of a pair of 6" single blocks attached to the ends of a 1½" span clove hitched around the main topmast stay near the mouse. This span should be somewhere between 8' 0" and 10' 0" long. Each fall is then taken forward and down to the aft side of the fore top. The fall passes through another 6" single block hooked to an eyebolt on each side of the aft edge of the top (see section 15.37 and photograph at right, left side), then down to belay at the cleat on the appropriate side of the belfry.

133

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

20.8 Main topgallant yard braces Similar to those of the fore topgallant yard, these are single braces. The end of a 1½" line is eye-spliced and slipped over the end of the yard arm. The line is led aft through one of two 6" single blocks eye-spliced on a span around the mizzen topmast head just above the stays (photograph at right). The line then leads down through the mizzen top to belay at the quarter deck rail opposite the second mizzen shroud. Alternatively, the line is belayed to a shroud cleat at the fourth mizzen shroud, a little above the deadeye lashings. These are wooden cleats lashed vertically to the third and fourth shrouds about 4' 0" to 5' 0" above deck level (see next section). In practice, I had to belay the line aft of this, on the last shroud, to clear other lines. The important thing is to make sure that the lines have a clear run and do not foul each other.

20.9 Shroud cleats Make these cleats from 2½" thick stock. I estimate that they would be about 1' 0" long. Glue together a number of pieces to shape their profiles for consistency and economy of effort, similarly to the parrel ribs. I use white glue, so that the pieces can be separated by immersion in isopropanol. Once the profiles are cut and the pieces separated, file a groove in the back edge to fit against the shroud and another around each limb for the lash line (illustration at right). Steel shows an additional score, omitted from others’ illustrations, at the center of the cleat.84 I have interpreted this engraving in my illustration. This center lashing is the most useful for model work. By gluing a lashline to this score before installing the cleat, it will be much easier to position and secure the cleat on the shroud, particularly with limited access at later stages of rigging (photograph opposite page).

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, following page 151, Blocks Pl. 1, bottom left (Sweetman Plate XLII, facing page 137). This is shown again in Rigging, Pl. 3, opposite page 181, where the middle seizing is also snaked. 84

134

CHAPTER T WENT Y

Round off all the other edges and corners of the cleats, otherwise you will be sure to catch some line on them later on. So that the shroud cleats would not "jump" visually, I dyed the natural wood to the same color as the blocks and parrel trucks.

20.10 Fore and main topgallant yard lifts The lifts are single and are eye-spliced around the yard arms. They are of 2" line and are 80' 0" long for the fore and 84' 0" long each for the main topgallant yards. The lift passes in and up to the topgallant mast hounds. There it reeves through either a 6" block, or a thimble suspended on a short pendant. Steel does not specify the size of line for the pendant, but I would suggest it would be the same size as the lift at 2". I opted to use thimbles rather than blocks here. I used an 8' 0" length of strop and spliced it. I then seized in the two thimbles and seized the strop around the mast head. If you opt to use 6" blocks instead, start with a 10' 0" strop. Alternatively one could use a shorter length of line, eye splice a block or thimble into each end and make a cont splice in the center to slip over the mast head. The fall then passes down to belay at the cleat on the fourth topmast shroud. Again, ensure that the fall does not foul any other line on its path to the cleat.

20.11 Mast trucks It is finally time to install the mast trucks that you made so long ago. They should fit back nicely on their tenons at the upper ends of the topgallant masts. In full-size practice, the tenon was slightly tapered so that the truck was retained by friction. This completes running rigging to the topgallant yards.

135

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

136

CHAPTER T WENT Y-ONE

CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE

his chapter deals with the various necessary ropes, as Steel terms them. The ones that would be seen on a model are the cat falls, fish tackle and other lines associated with the anchors and buoys, entering ropes and ladders, and other miscellaneous lines.

21.1 The fish davit This is a substantial baulk of squared timber that was used on the forecastle for fishing the anchors up the ship’s side. Steel defines this as: DAVIT. A short beam of fir…used as a crane whereby the flukes of the anchor are hoisted to the Gunwale without injuring the planks of the side.85

It was deployed to port or starboard as required and fitted through specialized square ring bolts called spanshackle rings. For details, see Volume II, sections 12.8 and 12.9 (photograph above). Sometime around 1780 it was replaced by a shorter davit rigged from the fore channel. The descriptions below only refer to when the fish davit and tackle were rigged. Normally these would be stowed. The davit would probably be laid above the waist with the spare spars. I thought it would be more interesting to show these items in use.

21.2 Fish tackle block If you wish to show the davit in action, the first item is the single 15" block suspended by a 3½" served strop on the outboard end. I found that 8' 6" was the right length for the strop. Once the block is seized into the strop, the remaining loop just passes over the end of the fish davit. Mold the strop snugly against the outboard stop of the davit (photograph at right).

Steel, Naval Architecture, page 25.

137

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

21.3 Fish tackle hook and pendant To rig the fish davit there are a number of necessary ropes required. The first is the fish tackle pendant. It is of 5½" untarred line, 36' 0" long. However (see the following description) this may be shorter in practice. Splice the fish hook and its thimble to one end of the pendant with ¾" untarred seizings. This hook is a very large one, as it is used to literally fish for the inner arm – not the shank – of the anchor as it is hauled up.86 The hook is passed from the outboard side. Note its recurved shape and tapering diameter which Falconer 87 shows clearly. Pass the pendant through the 15" single block on the end of the davit and splice in a 24" long tackle block on its free end (photograph below). Make sure that this block is spliced in the correct way around – larger end towards the hook! There is also a lashing around the neck or narrow of this block.

21.4 Fish tackle Also required is a 14" block with a 3½" strop. Steel specifies a 42' 0" length for this. According to Lees,88 the far end of the strop should carry a thimble and hook. It is hooked to the eyebolt near the fore end of the main chains (the strop is shown arrowed, below). However, if the strop were indeed this length, the tackle would shorten to "block on block" long before the anchor shank was raised to the horizontal. Accordingly, I made the strop about half that length. Alternatively, the fish tackle pendant would need to be cut shorter than 36' 0". The fall consists of a 90' 0" length of 3" line, spliced to the strop of the 14" block. It belays at the fore end of the quarter deck rail. A word about the illustration cited above from Falconer, (shown opposite, top). It is a little misleading in that the tackle, numbered 29 in the illustration, appears to be hung from the fish davit. This is not so. The illustration is a sort of perspective along the ship’s side. Once one realizes that the pendant to the tackle is receding from the artist’s point of view to the main chains (hidden from sight beyond the fish davit), the engraving will make sense. My reconstruction of this tackle can be seen (photograph below). It is very workable when rigged in this fashion.

138

Harland & Myers, Seamanship in the Age of Sail, page 268.

Falconer, Dictionary of the Marine, 1780, Plate II, (to face Capstern) figure 29. See top of page opposite.

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, page 128.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-ONE

21.5 The fish back This item is not usually seen on models. The fish back is a small line that is seized to the fish hook to enable it to be swung and hooked around the anchor arm from inboard. This is well illustrated in Harland and Myers.89 The fish back is a 2" line with ¾" seizings (lower photograph, page 137). The line is secured to a convenient timberhead on the forecastle.

21.6 The cat blocks The cat block is a 15" double iron-bound, coaked block. This means that the stropping is in the form of an iron strap, rather than of rope. A coak is a simple form of bearing or bushing. It was usually a cylinder of brass or bronze. The pin of the sheave was a close fit with the bearing, only used on heavy duty blocks. There are excellent photographs of coaked blocks in an older monograph on blockmaking machinery.90 The cat block is fitted with a large hook integral with the strap. This hook is about the same length as the block itself and is recurved and tapered at the tip, similar to the fish hook (photograph at right). Two are required, one for each cathead. I started by making a regular double block without the usual scores. Instead, I made shallower, flat, wider scores at each end of the block. Each score was the width of the strap, which I made 2½" wide. The strap itself is not a simple strip, but has a widened portion on each side of the block that retains the coak and is drilled for the pin. The only way to make this strap (other than by photo-etching) is to file it from a brass strip about 4½" wide. It is actually easier to file the strap with the brass in a hardened state and anneal it after shaping. Make a card or paper pattern first to determine how far apart the two wider portions of the strap will be.

Op cit., Seamanship in the Age of Sail, illustration lower left, page 268.

K. R. Gilbert, The Portsmouth Blockmaking Machinery, Science Museum monograph, HMSO, London 1965.

139

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Rather than try to silver solder the hook to the strap, I drilled one end of the cat block for it. Once the strap was shaped around the block, I file the strap ends to fit around the shank of the hook. Then I epoxied the pieces together. Some blocks also had a small eyebolt on the side to attach the cat back (see section 21.8).

21.7 The cat falls These are of 3" line. The standing end of the line is eye-spliced to an eyebolt on the aft side of the cathead just aft of the sheaves. If you do not have this eyebolt already fitted on your model, it is an easy job to drill and install it now. The line is taken down to the first sheave in the cat block, around and up through the aft sheave of the cathead, then down again through the second cat block sheave. It is again brought up through the fore sheave of the cathead, around the snatch block on the forecastle rail, and belays to a convenient timberhead aft of the block.

21.8 The cat backs Similar to the fish back lines in size and function (section 21.5), there were sometimes two cat back lines. The first was lashed to the back of the hook as for the fish back. The second line, if fitted, attached with an eye splice to the small eyebolt on the side of the fish block. The lines run up to belay to suitable timberheads on the forecastle.

21.9 Anchor stowage Normally on smaller ships there were four anchors that needed to be secured (Volume II, section 12.11). Occasionally a fifth, the stream anchor, was added. In the Northern hemisphere, the small bower (or starboard bower) and sheet anchors were carried to starboard and the best bower (or port bower) to port.91 The kedge anchor was lashed to the starboard bower anchor (photograph at right). 91

140

Harland & Myers, Seamanship in the Age of Sail, page 237.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-ONE

For non-native English speakers, the word bower is derived from the word "bow" (the front of a ship) and is pronounced "b-ow-er", not "b-oh-er."

21.10 Starboard bower and kedge anchor stowage The first item to take care of is closing the kedge anchor stock against its shank and lashing it to the starboard bower anchor. There is a 1½" lashing around the kedge’s stock, high up the shank. Next are two 2" lashings securing the kedge to the starboard bower (photograph below opposite). There are several shank painters to be made. These are of 4½" untarred cabled line. Two will be required for the stowed bower and kedge anchors. Exactly where these anchors will be positioned against the fore chains is partly determined by the anchor stocks not blocking a port. The arms and flukes of the anchors will lie almost horizontally on the planksheer and gangboards with the stocks more or less vertical. Take a 24' 0" length of cable and seize their ends, so that there is no tendency for them to unravel. Seize one end of this line around the neck of a fore chain between a suitable deadeye and the channel. Pass the painter over the anchor shank, under and around the chain, up again and so on until the line is expended. Seize the end to the standing part. Seize the turns together with a ¾" lashing. Select another convenient point along the shanks of the anchors to place a second shank painter, also 24' 0" long. Repeat the process outlined above to complete securing the anchors together.

21.11 The nun buoy This curiously named object has nothing to do with religion! Nun, variously spelled nunne or nunn, was an old word for a child’s spinning top (Florio 1598),92 which the buoy resembles in shape. To the modern eye, it resembles an American football or Rugby ball. It was hard to find a reference for the size of this buoy, and I could not locate a primary source in Steel or other authors. However, Harland 93 states that it is one quarter the length of the anchor shank and an eighth the shank length in diameter. This works out to 3' 3" long and 1' 7½" in diameter for a sixth rate. Turn the body of the buoy on the lathe. The original buoys would have been made up as pointed-end barrels with staves and hoops. They were then then parceled with canvas, served and tarred over. 92

This is the earliest citation given in The Oxford English Dictionary.

Harland & Myers, Seamanship in the Age of Sail, page 241.

141

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The method of rigging the buoy is more interesting to carry out. First two circlets or hoops of 2½" served, tarred line are placed around the buoy, one on each side of the point of maximum diameter. Then two lengths of similar line called slings are eye-spliced to each circlet across the buoy’s equator at 180º intervals. The result is 4 slings crossing the center at 90º intervals, two extending to each end. Begin with an 8' 0" length of line, before forming the eye splices. Note that each sling passes under the opposite circlet. The looped ends of each pair of slings are then round-seized together to form eyes at each end of the buoy. The eye at one end often held a thimble. For the model, I drilled two small holes in the buoy body, in line with the two circlets. I then glued one end of each circlet into its hole (photograph above). It was easier to thread the eye splices of the two slings onto the circlet lines before inserting and gluing the free ends of the circlets into their respective holes. Leave just enough slack in the circlets to feed the opposing sling lines under. A buoy laniard is eye-spliced to the upper end of the buoy. It is of worn 2" line, 12' 0" long. The buoy rope is attached to the other end with the thimble. Occasionally the thimble was omitted, and the buoy rope was spliced to the eye (photograph at right). The buoy rope is of 4" cabled line 120' 0" long. It is attached to the anchor by a clove hitch around the arms and shank. The standing end is laid along the shank with ½" tarred seizings. There is also a knot in the end that lashes to the anchor, the buoy rope knot. It is more of a raised bump on the uppermost side of the rope than a conventional knot. As this is difficult to do at scale size, I simulated it with suitable colored acrylic paint. The purpose of this knot was that, should the rope slip or a seizing fail, it would catch one of the remaining seizings or clove hitch. Recovering a lost anchor was a tricky and uncertain operation.

142

CHAPTER T WENT Y-ONE

When the anchor was stowed, the buoy was hung on the foremast shrouds by its laniard and the buoy rope neatly coiled and seized to the shrouds below the buoy. Some models show the buoy on the foremost shroud and in others it is seen on the aft shrouds. Presumably it was placed as convenience dictated. I placed my buoy as shown (photograph at right), clear of any other lines.

21.12 Shankpainter chains and ropes The chains were installed on the model some time ago (Volume II, section 12.2). Short lines of 4½" untarred and cabled line are seized to the ends of these chains. Once the sheet anchor is catted and fished, the shankpainter chain is passed around either the shank or arm of the sheet anchor. It is then taken up and inboard where the rope portion is belayed around a suitable timberhead.

21.13 Entering ropes These lines attach to the stanchions at the head of the entry steps installed while completing the hull (section 12.17, Volume II). They are of 3" line and are long enough to reach to about 3' 0" above water level. The upper ends pass through the eyes of the stanchions and have a wall and crown knot made in them. Along their length, every nine inches or so, is a diamond knot.94 As a series of diamond knots are all but impossible to produce at scale size,95 I stretched a length of 3" line and painted small dots of acrylic paint on, of the same color as the line, at 9" intervals. This created the impression of diamond knots at the appropriate spacing (photograph at right).

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 234, (Sweetman page 198).

Darcy Lever, The Young Officer’s Sheet Anchor, 1808, plate facing page 6. A diamond knot is made by first opening the line, making the knot and then laying it up again. The wall and crown knot is shown in the plate facing page 5, figures 21 to 23. 95

143

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

21.14 Stern ladders These were features that I deliberately omitted. I think that they clutter up the view of the stern too much. I’m not sure whether they were deployed regularly, or only as occasion demanded. Contemporary models of ships show two ladders; one either side of the stern.96 The rope around each ladder was of 4", four-strand "worn" cabled line, spliced together at the ends. It was made long enough for the ladder to reach to about water level. The middle rope or concluding line was of 1" worn rope. The rungs were “treenails, thrust horizontally through the strands of rope on each side sixteen inches asunder, and a score cut around the middle, for the concluding line, or middle rope, which is fastened around every step with a clove hitch in the score.” 97 The upper and lower ends of the ladder had an eye seized in. The upper eye of each ladder was lashed to an eyebolt in the tafferel (taffrail) on each side using 1" line. These items conclude the usual standing and running rigging shown in a model without sails. I chose not to try to emulate sails as they are seldom convincingly done on models. Either they hang limply as if in a dead calm, which I find unpleasing, or they belly out from a non-existent breeze inside the glass case. The only convincing representations that I have seen that appear to draw nicely are on small-scale waterline scenic models, heeling naturally in a seaway. However, I shall describe sails and their associated running rigging in the next chapter for the sake of completeness.

Some examples from the Rogers’ Collection are model 1, St George, 1701 and model 23, formerly identified as Shannon, among others. Examples in the NMM (illustrated in Ship Models by Brian Lavery and Simon Stephens), include a model of a 50 gun ship, c.1710 (SLR0396/D6997-C) and a 20 gun ship of c.1720 (SLR0411/D4075-C). 96

144

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, pages 234-235 (Sweetman page 199).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-T WO

CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO

ship-rigged sloop carried a number of both square sails and fore-and-aft sails. The bolts or lengths of canvas from which these were constructed was a standard 24" in width. Canvas came in several different weights; that is to say, thicknesses. No. 1 canvas was the strongest and heaviest and No. 6 the lightest. Needless to say, the higher up the masts, the lighter and smaller the sails were.

Like every other aspect of shipbuilding, sails were dimensioned and cut to specific proportions, every detail of which is described by Steel.98 The descriptions and dimensions that follow have been derived from that source. However, before commencing, there are several terms that need to be defined. Each length of canvas comprising a sail is referred to as a cloth. Seams are where adjacent cloths are overlapped and sewn together. The hem around a sail formed by folding over the cloths and sewing them down is called the tabling. If the edge of a sail is angled rather than parallel to the cloths, it is termed gored. Linings are reinforcing cloths to strengthen certain areas of the sail. A hollow or rounded lower edge to a sail is referred to as a sweep. There are also many other specialized terms that will be introduced as we proceed.

22.1 The main course The sail attached to the main yard is called the main course. It is made of heavyweight No. 1 or No. 2 canvas. Its size and proportions for a sixth rate are as follows. The width across the head of the sail is 3' 0" less than the distance between the cleats at the yard arms. Its depth is such that the foot of the sail clears the boat on the booms in the waist. For a Swan class ship, this makes the sail about 51' 0" wide and 27' 0" deep at the center. Translated into cloths, the sail is 29 cloths wide.99 (Each cloth, once seamed together, is 21" wide). This gives a width of 50' 9", very close to the span required in whole widths of cloth. The main course can be vertical along the leech, or gored so that the foot of the sail is a little wider. The leech is the side of the sail. A suitable amount of gore is about one cloth’s width in the depth of the sail.

Ibid, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, pages 92 to 142 (Sweetman pages 67-105).

Ibid, tabular pages 149* and 150*. These give the width of the main course for a sixth rate as 25½ cloths wide at the head, 28½ cloths at the foot and a depth of 9½ yards (28' 6"). (Sweetman, pages 110-111, column for Sloops.) 99

145

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The foot of the sail – its lower edge – is gored so that the curve makes the sail lower at its outer corners, which are called the clues (also spelled clews). The amount of gore was determined by the sailmaker’s experience, but something approximately 3' 9" is proportionate to that indicated by the engraving in Steel.100 Steel’s information states that the increase in depth of each successive cloth begins at the second cloth inside the outer buntline cringle (see illustration at right). It increases by one inch per cloth as one moves outward. In other words, there is an arithmetic progression in depth as follows: 1", 3", 6", 10", 15", 21", 28", 36" and 45". This information gives the basic shape of the sail. Now that the shape and layout of the cloths has been established, there are a number of reinforcements that need to be added to the fore side of the sail.101 The first is the tabling, mentioned already. This is the hem, about 9" wide, along the head and foot of the sail. To each side is added a lining, one cloth wide. This takes care of the periphery of the sail. There are two reef bands added across the sail as shown (illustrated). These are each one-third of a cloth wide (8") and are placed at one-sixth and one third the depth of the sail down from the head, as measured at its center. The next horizontal reinforcement is a cloth wide, the top edge which is two-thirds of the way down the sail. This is called the middle band. Four vertical reinforcing cloths, each one cloth wide, placed equidistantly, run from the foot of the sail to the middle band. These are the buntline cloths. There are a number of holes through the sail, reinforced by either sewing or rope around their periphery, which acts like the finishing of a buttonhole. These reinforcements are called grommets, also spelled gromets. This is a small circlet of thin line sewn around a hole in a sail. An example of a grommet is illustrated on page 175. At the head of the sail there are holes at intervals, two through each cloth, for the laceing (also spelled lacing) or rope bands (see section 22.4 for details). This is a means of attaching the sail to the yard. Similarly, there are holes in both reef bands for the reef points, the short lines used to reef up the sail. Some sail-makers offset these holes, alternately placing them in the middle of each cloth and in the seams joining the cloths.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, Sails Pl. 1; A 20 Gunship’s Main Course, opposite page 98 and page 98 (Sweetman Plate VIII facing page 75 and page 75). 100

For those requiring even more detail than is provided here on sailmaking, particularly cringles and earings, Lees’ descriptions in his book in Section III from page 134 on will be found extremely useful.

101

146

CHAPTER T WENT Y-T WO

147

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

There are reinforcing ropes sewn around the edge of the sail. Boltrope is the generic term for these lines. Specifically they are the leech rope along the leeches and foot-rope along the foot of the sail. Both are of 3½" line. The head-rope, on the upper edge, is of 1½" line.102 At their junction, the head rope splices into the leech rope, and then the end of the leech-rope is spliced back into itself to form a loop, the head cringle. In the real sail, a certain amount of slack in the sailcloth was specified for sewing on these ropes. For a main course, for instance, there had to be 2" of slack allowed per yard at the head and foot of the sail and 1½" per yard along the leeches. (Some sailmakers accomplished this by stretching the boltropes the specified amount, then sewing the cloth on without slack.) Other sails had different allowances, but these need not concern the model maker. At the lower corners of the sail there are lengths of line worked into the leech-rope/foot-rope junction with a loop, called the clue cringles. These loops are not spliced, as one might expect, but are marled, that is to say, sewn to the boltrope. The loops are about 2' 0" long with 3' 0" long legs, judging from Steel’s plate and description. The bolt-rope is of tarred line, and the clue cringles are served all over. There are other rope loops placed at various points along the leeches and foot of the sail. These loops are called cringles or cringle ear-rings, also spelled earings. There is one at each end of the reef bands, the upper and lower reef cringles respectively. Between the lower reef cringle and the clue of the sail are three bowline cringles, placed equidistantly. There are also four buntline cringles, one at the foot of each buntline cloth. Cringles are of line ½" less in circumference than the bolt-rope they attach to. For the main course, therefore, 3" line is used. They are spliced or interwoven into the bolt-ropes.

22.2 The reef points The reef points are short lengths of tapered, plaited rope threaded through the holes in the reef bands and used for reefing, i.e. shortening, the sail under adverse weather conditions. It would be very difficult to imitate this exactly at scale size. There are 116 of these required for the main course alone; yet another reason why I would not attempt to make sails. The points of the main course are about 7' 6" long. They are threaded through the hole in the reef band and a knot put in on either side of the sail to keep the point in place. A little less of the point hangs in front of the sail than behind it. Needless to say, the points were tied around the bundled canvas and yard using reef knots (today also called square knots). 102

148

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, Sails, tabular pages 148 and 148* to 151* (Sweetman page 109).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-T WO

22.3 Head earings There were two head earings at the upper corners of the sail, attached to the head cringles for bending the sail to the yard. These earings pulled the head of the sail taut before the rope-bands (see below) were passed. The earing was a line with one end spliced to the head cringle. Each earing was of 1½" line, 27' 0" long. The line was heaved around the stop cleat and the various strops outboard of the cleat, back in, then twice through the cringle. This was done at each yard arm simultaneously to stretch the head of the sail along the yard. The line was then expended by passing it repeatedly through the cringle and around the yard and securing it with two half-hitches. The head of the sail should be hove high enough to sit above the centerline of the yard.

22.4 Lacing or rope bands This is the rope or ropes that hold the sail to the yard along its length. There seems to be two methods used to do this. One is the laceing (as spelled by Steel); a continuous line that spirals along the yard, passing through the holes in the head of the sail. The other method is the use of rope-bands or robands. These are short pieces of plaited cordage knotted around the yard at each grommet along the head of the sail. I cannot find a reference stating the size of line required for the lacing. I imagine that a 1½" line would be about correct. Lacing appears to be shown in Steel’s plates; however, I believe it was only the engraver’s attempt to show perspective, though the text implies that robands were used. Certainly lacing is an earlier method, but it seems that robands had superseded these well before the 1770’s. Each roband was taken twice through the grommet and around the yard, then half-hitched around itself and reef knotted on the aft side of the yard. Again, make sure that the head of the sail sits above the centerline of the yard along a fair, straight line.

22.5 Gaskets Gaskets were lengths of line used to secure the sails when furled (raised and stowed along the yard). These were of plaited line, with an eye-spliced into one end or eyespliced around the yard. There were apparently two gaskets to each quarter of a lower yard plus one at each yard arm, for a total of 14 gaskets.103 According to Falconer they were long enough to wrap six or seven times around yard and furled sail.104

103

Petrejus, Modelling the Brig-of-war ‘Irene’, page 249.

104

Falconer, Dictionary of the Marine, 1780 edition, page 614.

149

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

In addition there were two-tailed bunt gaskets on the lower yards, one each side just outside the quarter blocks. Again, I could find no reference to the size of these gaskets, but something of the order of 1½" line would be about right. Later versions of bunt gaskets were in the form of triangular netting. For more details on the deployment and use of gaskets, refer to Harland.105

22.6 Lines controlling the courses There are several sets of lines that control the courses. These consist of the sheets, tacks and cluelines attached to the clues of the sail. In addition are the leechlines and bowlines along the leech of the sail and buntlines along the foot. Each of these will be described below.

22.7 Main course clue lines (or cluegarnets) Cluelines pull the clues of the sail up and inward. These should be rigged first, as the lower clueline blocks attach to the clue of the sail before the tack and sheet go on. The 9" lower clueline block is a specialized one. Its 2½" strop passes though bored holes on either side of the arse end of the block (illustration at right). The strop is attached to the clue of the sail (illustration below). The clueline is also of 2½" line. The standing end is timber hitched around the yard a few feet outside the clueline block already lashed to it. It is then taken down through the lower block, up through the upper block, then down again to belay at the main topsail sheet bitts through the outer sheave there.

22.8 Main course leechlines Leechlines, as their name implies, attach to the leeches of the sail. In a sixth rate, there was only one leechline per side. In large ships there were two. Their purpose was to assist in lifting the sail in order to furl it. The standing end of this 2" line hitches to the leech of the sail at the upper bowline cringle. The line runs up through the 7" leechline block on the yard, then to the outer sheave of the outer block under the fore part of the top.

Harland and Myers, Seamanship in the Days of Sail, pages 32-33.

105

150

CHAPTER T WENT Y-T WO

It then runs aft through the aft block hanging under the top, then down to belay at the main topsail sheet bitts after passing through the sheave of its cheek block (see section 8.42, Volume II).

22.9 Main course buntlines Buntlines serve a similar purpose to leechlines except that they attach to the foot of the sail to haul it up. Their action is nicely illustrated in Petersson’s book.106 Two lines per side, they hitch to the buntline cringles (see section 22.1). The 2" buntlines are taken in front of the sail, up through the buntline blocks on the yard. The lines pass through the fore blocks under the top. They then pass through the aft blocks and down to belay on the quarter deck breastwork after reeving through one of the sheaves in the uprights.

22.10 Main course bowlines and bridles Bowlines, as their name implies, lead forward from the sail. Perversely, the word is pronounced "bowe-line", not "b-ow-line"! They attach, not directly at one point, but by a system of "V" shaped ropes called bowline bridles, to the cringles along the leech of the sail. The bowlines and bridles are of 3" line. The first bridle attaches to the upper bowline cringle. The next bridle has an eye splice in one end through which the first bridle passes before attaching to the middle bowline cringle. The bowline itself also has an eye splice in one end. The second bridle passes through this before hitching to the lower bowline cringle. The running end of the bowline leads forward to belay at the fore topsail sheet bitts (see section 10.30, Volume II).

22.11 The main sheet The main sheet block is a 14" single block with a 4½" strop. (In Steel’s tables the piece of type with the numeral 4 has dropped out of the printers’ forme, but this number can be implied from the specification for the fore sheet block, which is the same size.) The clue cringle of the sail is passed through the strop (illustration opposite). The main sheet is of 4½" cabled line and 150' 0" are required for this. The standing end of the sheet is either seized or hitched to the eyebolt in the side of the ship aft, below the aft fixed block in the waist. The line passes forward, through the main sheet block, and aft again through the fixed block in the side. It then belays either to a cleat, if the quarter deck bulwark is fitted with one, or to a timberhead forward of the fixed block. The action of the sheet is to control the lower corners of the sail.

106

Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, page 72.

151

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

22.12 The main tack The last control line to fit to the main course is the main tack. This line acts in opposition to the sheet and is also attached to the clue of the sail. It is of 5½" cabled line, the running end of which is tapered. This is to make passing it inboard and belaying it easier. The standing end has a substantial tack knot worked into it. This knot is a double wall knot, double crowned. The knot is passed through the bight of the clue in the corner of the sail from aft forward (lower illustration on previous spread). It secures the sheet block and clueline block from detaching. The line passes forward through the chesstree sheave (see section 10.8, Volume II) and then through the fixed block in the side. Inboard, it belays to the cleat aft of the block in the waist. This completes the lines for the main course. The lines and details of the fore course are very similar, and only any differences will be described in the following sections.

22.13 The fore course This sail is similar to the main course in all its features except size (illustration opposite). The width of this sail is about 47' 0" or 27 cloths. The depth of the sail at its center should just clear the main stay. I recommend that you measure this distance on your own model. The leech of the sail was vertical. Alternatively, each leech was gored by half a cloth to be narrower at the clues than the head. The method of goring the foot of the sail is slightly different than that for the main course. The gore is calculated as between 5" and 6" per cloth gored. There will be seven cloths gored each side, starting from the second cloth within the outer buntline cringle. The gore will then be between 35" to 42" in total. The progressive amount of gore for each cloth (or accumulated increase in depth) moving outward is 1", 3", 6", 10", 16", 25" and 37" for a total of 37". This is only a guide; each sailmaker used his experience in shaping the gore. However, the curve should be sharper than that for the main course. Again, the sail is of No. 1 or No. 2 canvas with tablings, reef bands, middle band and buntline cloths as before. The bolt-rope sizes are also the same. The arrangement of cringles, reef points, and robands is almost identical as well. There are, however, only two bowline cringles each side.

22.14 Fore course cluelines (cluegarnets) Each clueline block is set up exactly as for the main course (see section 22.7). All the control lines to the fore course are identical to the main course. The only difference is that the line belays to the fore topsail sheet bitts after passing through the outer sheave in the cheek block (see section 10.30, Volume II).

152

CHAPTER T WENT Y-T WO

22.15 Fore course leechlines Again, these are set up similarly to those on the main course. They belay to the forecastle breast rail close to the belfry.

22.16 Fore course buntlines These are analogous to those for the main course, except that they belay outside the leechlines on the forecastle breast rail.

22.17 Fore course bowlines and bridles Once again, see the description of those for the main course. Here there is only one "V". Each bowline leads forward to reeve through an 11" single block with a 3" strop lashed to the bowsprit aft of the forestay collar. It then leads inboard to belay at the first cleat inside the forecastle bulwark, just outside the heel of the bowsprit.

153

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

22.18 The fore sheet The fore sheet block is a 14" single block, stropped and attached in the same manner as the main sheet block to the clue of the sail (section 22.11). Each fore sheet is of 4½" cabled line, as before. 140' 0" of line are specified. It is either seized or eye-spliced to the eyebolt in the side below the fixed block in the waist. The line is taken forward through the sheet block, then aft again through the aftermost fixed block in the waist. It belays to the range cleat inside the bulwark, forward of the fixed block (see section 9.24, Volume II).

22.19 The fore tack The fore tack is of 5½" cabled line as was the main tack, the running end of which is also tapered. The knot is passed through the clue of the fore course and the line led forward. It reeves through the tack block at the end of the boomkin that was installed some time ago (see section 15.20). The fore tack belays to the cleat fitted on the upper side of the cathead. This completes all the controlling lines to the lower square sails. The mizzen course, a fore-and-aft sail attached to the gaff, will be described with the other fore-and-aft sails. Topsails are considered in the next chapter.

154

CHAPTER T WENT Y-THREE

CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE

his chapter deals with the square topsails and their associated gear. Many of the descriptions are very similar to those pertaining to the courses outlined in the previous chapter. If some of the details appear to be skimmed over, it is because they are identical to those already described. Reef bands and points are examples of this.

23.1 The main topsail This sail is quadrilateral but, unlike the courses, has considerable gore to the leeches (illustration on following page). It is square at both at head and foot and is made of No. 2 or No. 3 canvas; either of which are a little lighter in weight than the courses. The width of the head of the sail spans to about 1' 6" inside the stop cleats of the topsail yard. Its depth is such that when the yard is hoisted to the topmast hounds, the lower edge of the sail comes down to the main yard. This gave me dimensions of 32' 0" or 18 cloths wide by 39' 0" deep. However, it is safer to measure these distances on your own model. The gore is designed so that the width of the sail at the foot spans between the stop cleats of the main yard. This is about the same width as the head of the main course, so it is 49' 0" or 28 cloths wide. Therefore, the gore on each leech is half the difference of 28 and 18, which works out to 5 cloths. Note that the leech of the sail is cut with a slight concave sweep. The purpose of this is that when the sail is close-reefed, the width at the third reef band is less than the distance between the topsail yard arm stop cleats. The cloths are seamed and tabled at the head and foot of the sail as previously described (section 22.1). Additionally, linings are applied to the leeches, tapering from half a cloth wide at the head to 1½ cloths at the foot. Three reef bands are placed one-eighth the depth of the sail apart and one-eighth below the head. A middle band is sewn on halfway between the lowest reef band and the foot of the sail. However, read three paragraphs ahead; the buntline cloths run up under the middle band. There are also reinforcements against wear applied to the back of the sail. The first of these is the top-lining, to take the wear of the sail against the brim of the top. It extends from the foot to middle band. Steel specifies that it "covers one-fifth of the cloths in the foot" of the sail.107 Divide the total number of cloths across the foot by five; the result is the width of the top-lining. In round figures this works out as six cloths wide across the center of the sail. 107

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 101 (Sweetman page 78).

155

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The next reinforcements are the mast cloths. These pieces of canvas take the wear of the sail against the topmast. The mast cloths are two cloths wide and are sewn on the aft side between the middle band and lower reef band, extending under the middle band. Two buntline cloths are added to the front of the sail, applied to either side of the top-lining and running up and under the middle band. There are head, leech, and foot-ropes as for the courses, sewn around the periphery of the sail. The head-rope is 1½" line, leech rope of 2½" line and foot-rope of 3" line. The foot-rope is protected from wear by worming, parceling and serving it in

156

CHAPTER T WENT Y-THREE

the area of the lower mast cloth. The clues are treated in the same way. There are two rope-band grommets per cloth, as for the courses. The numerous reef points required are also as described earlier (section 22.2). There are a number of cringles to be attached. There is one at each end of every reef band: the upper, middle and lower reef band cringles. There are three bowline cringles on each leech (four in large ships). The first, the upper bowline cringle, is placed halfway along the leech. However, leave room above it for the reef tackle pendant cringle, described below. The other two cringles, the middle bowline cringle and lower bowline cringle, are equidistantly spaced between the upper one and the clue. There are cringles at each corner of the sail. There is yet another cringle to be applied to each leech; the reef tackle pendant cringle. It is placed between the lower reef cringle and upper bowline cringle. To complete the quota of cringles, there are two more to be added along the foot of the sail, the buntline cringles. These are situated at the middle of the foot of each buntline cloth. The sail can now be attached to the yard with its earings of 1" line and robands.

23.2 Main topsail cluelines The 8" clueline blocks with their 2" strops are attached to the clues as described for the courses. Each clueline, of 2" line, is hitched to the topsail yard about 2' 0" outside the clueline block there. The line is taken down through the clueline block at the clue and up again through the block on the yard. The line then passes down through the main top to belay either to a free eyebolt at the foot of the main mast or to the quarter deck rail opposite the mast.

23.3 Main topsail leechlines Although listed by Steel in his tables, these appear not to have been rigged on a sixth rate. Lees does make mention of them,108 but other sources do not describe these lines. I am uncertain whether they should be shown on a vessel of this size. If you wish to rig them, proceed as follows. A 6" single block is seized to the yard about halfway out. A 7" double block is substituted for the single block hung below the crosstrees (see section 23.4 below). The standing end of a 1½" line is hitched to the upper bowline cringle. It reeves through the single block on the yard, up through the outer sheave of the double block,109 then down to the deck through the top. The leechline belays at the second eyebolt at the foot of the mast. 108

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 87.

Ibid, page 87, reads inner sheave (my italics), the outer reserved for the buntline, but this seems illogical as the leechline runs outboard of the buntline.

109

157

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

23.4 Main topsail buntlines There is a topsail buntline on each side attached to the appropriate cringle in the foot of the sail. The 2" line is carried up through the 7" buntline block just above the tye block (see section 19.15). It then passes up to another 7" single block suspended by its 2" strop from the middle topmast crosstree. Alternatively, if the leechline is rigged (see above), it reeves through the inner sheave of the double block. The line then descends to deck level to belay either to a free eyebolt at the foot of the mast or to the quarter deck rail opposite the mast.

23.5 Main topsail bowlines and bridles The arrangement for the bridles is similar to that for the courses, except for an extra bridle worked into the arrangement on large ships where there are four bowline cringles per side. The bridles and bowline are of 2" line. The bowline is taken forward to a 9" single block stropped and seized to the aftermost fore shroud. (As a general rule, the strop is the same size as the line carried by the block.) This block is located several feet below the futtock staves. The line then belays to the forecastle breast rail.

23.6 Main topsail sheets The main topsail sheets each require 102' 0" of 4½" line. The standing end is wall and crown knotted, as for the other sheets, and is passed through the clue. The line is then taken through the shouldered sheet block on the lower yard arm. It passes inboard through the quarter block, aft of the sail and yard. It then passes down to belay to the main topsail sheet bitts (see section 8.42, Volume II) after passing through the inner sheave of the bitt stanchion.

23.7 Main topsail reef tackles These are required as the sail is heavy and would generally be reefed under adverse weather conditions. This gear assists manpower working on the yard. The tackle each side consists of a pendant and falls. The pendant consists of 90' 0" of 2½" line. The standing end is hitched to the reef tackle cringle. The line is taken up and reeved through the sheave in the topsail yard arm. A 7" single block is spliced into the inner end of the pendant. The fall requires 114' 0" of 1½" line. To rig the reef tackle, a second 7" block is required, not specified by Steel. This block has a 1½" long strop suspended below the topmast crosstrees. The standing end of the fall is either hitched or eyespliced to the eyebolt on the center of the topmast cap. The line is then reeved through the block on the pendant, through the block under the trees, and then down. The line belays to either the aftermost eyebolt at the foot of the main mast or to the quarter deck breast rail.

158

CHAPTER T WENT Y-THREE

This completes the lines for the main topsail. The details of the fore topsail rigging are very similar, and only any differences will be described in the following sections.

23.8 Fore topsail This sail is identical to the main topsail except for its dimensions. The sail is 28' 0" wide at the head and 47' 0" at the foot, which translates to 16 cloths and 26½ cloths. The gore on each side is therefore 5¼ cloths. The depth of the fore topsail is about 34' 0". Once again, check these measurements against your own model. The leech lining tapers from half a cloth at the head to 1½ cloths at the foot, as on the main topsail. Add the various reinforcements, cringles and robands as before.

23.9 Fore topsail cluelines These are rigged as the main topsail cluelines (section 23.2). The cluelines belay to the fore jeer bitts.

23.10 Fore topsail leechlines Again, I am not certain whether or not these were rigged. If you wish to show them, follow the scheme described in section 23.3. They belay at the second eyebolt at the foot of the foremast.

23.11 Fore topsail buntlines Follow the description given in section 23.4. Each line belays to one of the eyebolts at the foot of the foremast.

23.12 Fore topsail bowlines and bridles These are prepared as the others were. The 2" bowline leads forward to an 8" single block attached to the eyebolt on the aft side of the bowsprit cap. The line then reeves through the bowsprit saddle for the running rigging (section 11.27, Volume II) and belays to a cleat in the bulwark beside the bowsprit.

23.13 Fore topsail sheets These are 96' 0" long and of 4½" line as for the main topsail sheets. They belay at the fore topsail sheet bitts (section 10.30, Volume II) after reeving through the inner sheaves.

159

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

23.14 Fore topsail reef tackles These are similar to the main topsail reefing gear. First seize the 7" blocks below the fore topmast crosstrees. 78' 0" of pendant and 90' 0" of fall line are required. The fall belays at the aftermost eyebolt at the foot of the fore mast. This completes the fore topsail rigging.

23.15 The mizzen topsail This is a smaller version of the other topsails. It is lighter than the fore and main topsails; it is cut from No. 5 or No. 6 canvas. The width at the head comes to within about 1' 0" of the topsail yard cleats. The sail is 23' 0" wide at the head, and 33' 0" wide at the foot. This translates as 13 cloths and 17½ cloths wide. The gore each side is 2¼ cloths. The sail is about 31' 0" deep. Again, measure off depth against your own model. There are a few differences compared to the other topsails. There are only two reef bands, placed at 1/7th and 2/7ths the way down the sail, and the foot is gored to form a curve 2' 0" deep. This gore begins at the second cloth out from the buntline cringles. Reinforcements at the head are proportional, at an inch wide per 5 cloths in the foot; in this instance the head lining is 4", although the engraving in Steel 110 shows this as about an inch or two wider. The leech tabling tapers in width from half a cloth wide at the head to 1½ cloths wide at the foot. The middle band, which is shown as half a cloth wide on the engraving, but in the text is one cloth wide, is sewn on half way between the lower reef band and center of the foot. On the back of the sail, the top-lining is five or six cloths wide and continues under the middle band. The buntline cloths are sewn on the front of the sail to meet the outermost top-linings. The mast cloth on the back of the sail, extending from the middle band to the lower reef band, is two cloths wide. No reef tackle was fitted on ships under 44 guns, so there is no cringle for this, and three bowline cringles plus two reef cringles are required along the leech. There are two buntline cringles in the foot of the sail. The various head, leech and footropes are put on with the usual earings and clues. The headrope is of 1¼" line, the leechrope of 1¾"line, and the footrope of 2¼" line. Reef points are as before, two to a cloth. The robands and earings, also as previously described, are of ¾" line.

110

160

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, Sails, Pl. 6, opposite page 103 (Sweetman page 80).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-THREE

23.16 Mizzen topsail cluelines 120' 0" of 1½" line are required. The 5" clueline block is attached to the clue of the sail as before. The run of the line is similar, except that it belays to an eyebolt beside the foot of the mizzen mast.

23.17 Mizzen topsail buntlines 60' 0" of 1½" line are specified for each buntline. They are rigged as the other topsail buntlines and belay to the quarter deck rail inside the mizzen shrouds.

23.18 Mizzen topsail bowlines and bridles These are also of 1½" line. The arrangement consists of two "V"s. The bowline leads forward and across the ship to a 5" single block seized to the aftermost main shroud on the opposite side just below the catharpins. It then leads down to belay on the quarter deck rail by the aftermost main shroud. Make sure that the blocks on the shrouds are at different levels so that as the bowlines cross, they do not foul each other.

23.19 Mizzen topsail sheets The sheets each consist of 75' 0" of 3" line. The standing end has the usual wall and crown knot worked into it and the line passed through the clue of the sail. It then follows the same path as the other topsail sheets, belaying at one of the cleats near the foot of the mizzen mast. As no reef tackles are fitted, this concludes rigging the topsails. It is time to move on to the topgallant sails.

161

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

162

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FOU R

CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR

his chapter will deal with the two topgallant sails, spritsail, and then the studdingsails. This will conclude the complement of square sails carried by a sixth rate.

24.1 The main topgallant sail This sail is made of No. 6 or No. 7 canvas, in other words, very light-weight material. The sail is quadrilateral with no gore along the foot (illustration below). The head extends to within 6" of the yard arm on each side, and the foot is wide enough to span to the sheet blocks below. The depth is the distance between the topsail and topgallant yards when they are hoisted. This width in my example is 21' 0" at the head, 33' 6" at the foot, and 21' 0" deep. Therefore with 12 cloths at the head and 19 cloths at the foot, the gore on each side will be 3½ cloths.

Much of the detail is similar to the other sails, but there are significant differences. Tablings are made as usual, but there are only small triangular linings, one cloth or so wide at the foot placed at the clues of the sail. These are actually the outermost cloths folded back on themselves. The other reinforcement is a piece of cloth "a quarter of a yard" at the head cringle. (This appears to measure about 1' 3" deep on Steel’s engraving). No reefbands or points are fitted.

163

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

There are also the usual boltropes: the head, leech and footropes are all of 1¾" line. The cringles are of 1½" line ("of a Tar’line") as shown on the drawing (previous page). There are three bowline cringles.The uppermost is placed halfway down the leech and the others equidistant between that and the clue. Earings and robands are not specified but were probably of 1½" line. They are rigged as for the other sails.

24.2 Main topgallant cluelines Unlike the other square sails, the standing end of the clueline is hitched directly to the clue. Each 1" clueline reeves through the clueline block on the topgallant yard, then passes down to belay at a shroud cleat above the main top.

24.3 Main topgallant bowlines and bridles These are also of 1" line. Rigged to the cringles as usual, the bowline is taken forward and down through the angled sheave in the aft end of the fore topmast trestletree (see section 14.17). The line belays at one of the shroud cleats above the fore top.

24.4 Main topgallant sheets The main topsail lifts act as sheets in this instance. This was the method used until about 1790, when the topgallant sails were given their own sheets.111 To quote Lees: Topsail lifts also acted as topgallant sheets up to 1790…. The lifts ran from the clues of the topgallant sail, through the blocks stropped to the topsail yard arms, up through the pendant blocks and down to the deck.112

The standing end of the line was hitched to the clue of the sail outside the clueline hitch. This method of rigging applies to the fore topgallant sail as well.

24.5 The fore topgallant sail Similar in all details to the main topgallant sail, its dimensions are slightly smaller. I calculate these to be 17' 9" at the head or 10 cloths wide; 28' 6" or 16 cloths at the foot and 17' 0" deep. The gore for each side will then be 3 cloths.

164

111

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 97.

112

Ibid, page 84.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FOU R

24.6 Fore topgallant cluelines These are rigged similarly to their counterparts for the mail topgallant sail. Each line belays at a shroud cleat in the fore top.

24.7 Fore topgallant bowlines and bridles Again, the bridles are similar to those of the main topgallant sail. The bowline leads down and forward to pass through the unoccupied thimble on its own side at the end of the jibboom (see section 17.9). The line then leads aft to belay at the outermost cleat inside the forecastle bulwark. This completes rigging to the square sails on the masts. A mizzen topgallant sail was not carried by a sixth rate.

24.8 The spritsail Also called the sprit course, this sail is quadrilateral in shape. It has no gore along the leech. There are also several differences from other square sails, which are detailed below. It is made of No. 2 or No. 3 canvas. Its width extends to about 9" within the yard arm cleats (illustration below). In my example this is 30' 0" or 17 cloths wide. The depth is not specified by Steel in the text, but the tables give this as 15' 0", i.e. half its width.113

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, tabular page 150* (Sweetman page 111). Steel’s pages here are marked with an asterisk.

113

165

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

There is tabling all around the sail. The head, leech, footropes, earings and clues are of 1" line. There are two reef bands sewn on diagonally which cross each other. Each is one-third of a cloth wide and runs from the second seam inboard from the leech at the head of the sail to the leech on the opposite side, about 2' 3" above the clue. Steel states that instead there is sometimes a single reef band across the sail, one-fifth of the depth down from the head of the sail.114 The usual two reef points per cloth are applied. However, note the pattern of reef points at the center of the sail where the bands cross each other (illustration previous page). The reason for this diagonal reefing pattern was that, if the ship was heeled in a fresh breeze, reefing up the lee side of the sail would prevent it dipping underwater and creating drag. Cringles are applied at the ends of the reef bands. Buntline cringles are placed at one-third the way across the foot of the sail. The last details are the water holes. These drain any seawater that might otherwise gather in the bag or belly of the sail. Water holes are 4" to 6" in diameter, cut through the second cloth in from the leech opposite the reef cringles near the foot. Needless to say, the edges of these holes are reinforced by sewn grommets. This sail has the usual earings to spread it across the spritsail yard and two robands per cloth along the head.

24.9 The spritsail cluelines These attach to the clues of the sail. They are of 1½" line. A 6" clueline block attaches by its 1½" strop to the clue in the same manner as for the other courses. The standing end of the line is hitched to the spritsail yard about two-thirds the way in from the yard arm. The line then reeves through the clueline block and up to another 6" block on the yard, inboard from the standing end of the line. It then leads in to the forecastle to belay at a cleat there.

24.10 Spritsail buntlines It seems that for small ships the buntlines were rigged in a similar manner to the bowlines. An inverted "V" of line was formed, about half the depth of the sail, between the cringles in the foot of the sail. The center of this was either hitched to the buntline proper or a passed through a thimble eyespliced at its end. The line was taken up through another thimble seized to the slings of the yard, or around the bowsprit, and led in to belay at the forecastle.

114

166

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 117 (Sweetman page 91).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FOU R

24.11 Spritsail sheets The sheets are of cabled 3" line. The standing end of each line is hitched to the clue of the sail, and the running end belayed to the same cleat as the clueline (section 24.9). This item concludes rigging to the regular square sails.

24.12 Rigging the lower studdingsails* *For ease of reading, "studdingsail" is abbreviated to ‘"stunsail" in the following text.

The studdingsails or studding sails (pronounced "stuns’ls") are extensions of the main and fore courses and topmast yard sails. These are rigged in light airs. It was very unlikely that a sloop would have carried topgallant stunsails. The lower stunsail booms were made and fitted to the model some time ago (section 12.3, Volume II). The upper stunsail booms have also been fitted to the irons on the main and fore yards (section 18.25). Before beginning to rig, the lower stunsail yards have to be made.115 These small spars hang from the ends of the upper stunsail booms and spread the head of the stunsail. (illustration next spread). The following description, unless otherwise specified, applies to both main and fore lower stunsails. To suspend the lower stunsail yard from the boom, a 9" single block is seized to the upper stunsail boom inside the outer stop cleats. The standing end of the outer stunsail halliard, of 2½" line, is hitched around the center of the stunsail yard, reeves through this block, then up through one of a pair of 9" single blocks attached by a span to the lower mast cap. In larger ships there was a long pendant to the block on each side from the topmast crosstrees. The halliard then passes down through the top to belay at a suitable point at the foot of the mast. The upper boom is run outboard so that its center is at the boom iron; then the lashing on the inboard end is re-secured. To rig the lower stunsails, the lashing of the lower boom is cast off and the boom swung out from the ship’s side. Two lines hitch to the middle of the boom to stabilize it. These boom guys or swinging boom guys are secured to the fore and mizzen channels respectively for the main stunsail boom. For the fore boom, the after guy is belayed to the main channel. The fore guy reeves through a block in the spritsail yard arm and leads in to belay at the forecastle. I have no reference as to the line size, but imagine 2" to be about correct.

115

Detailed scale drawings of these spars are given on the Sparring plan for sixth rates including Swan class sloops, c.1775 by David Antscherl, available at the www.admiraltymodels.com web site.

167

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

A topping lift, presumably also of 2" line, is hitched to the center of the lower boom to support it. This line is taken up though either an available sheave in one of the blocks below the top or to a block hooked under the cap. The lift belays to a convenient point at the foot of the mast. In larger ships there is a more complex tackle rigged.

24.13 The main lower stunsails These sails are rectangular and made of lightweight No. 6 or No. 7 canvas. Their depth is two yards, or 6' 0", deeper than the main course. In large ships this formula is increased to 9' 0". This gives a depth of 33' 0". The width is proportional to depth. According to Steel,116 this is one less cloth wide than the number of yards deep for a small ship. In large ships this is increased to two cloths more. In this instance, it gives a width of 10 cloths, or 17' 6". The sail is tabled all round, as usual (illustration opposite). A reef band is put on the front of the sail one-eighth the depth of the sail down from the head. The usual two points per cloth are put in. There are reinforcements of between 9" and 18" deep, one cloth wide, applied to each corner of the sail. The boltrope is of 1½" and the headrope of 1" line. There is a cringle on each upper corner of the sail, a reef cringle at each end of the reef band, and clue cringles at the lower corners of the sail. Note that the roband grommets do not extend across the complete head of the sail. Remember that stunsails are asymmetric. You will need to make a port and starboard pair. The inner third of the sail is not attached to the stunsail yard, so no grommets or robands are required there. If setting stunsails on your model, do not make the error of placing the inner edges aft of the courses; they are usually set forward of the courses’ leeches when the wind was aft. In some wind conditions only one stunsail might be set, and in others one would be set forward and the other aft of the course. For a full, well illustrated and enlightening discussion on rigging and setting of stunsails, read Harland and Myers.117

24.14 The fore lower stunsails The fore stunsails are very similar to those described above. The size is the depth of the main course or slightly more. The width is one cloth less than the main stunsail; see the previous paragraph. Otherwise they are identical in all other respects.

168

116

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 113 (Sweetman page 87).

117

Harland and Myers, Seamanship in the Age of Sail, pages 155-172.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FOU R

24.15 Stunsail robands and earings Both fore and main lower stunsails are attached to the stunsail yards by the usual robands and earings. Although not specified by Steel, I imagine that 1½" line was used for these. The earing attaches to the outer cringle of the sail and is hauled up to the outer end of the stunsail yard (see illustration above).

24.16 Stunsail inner halliards The standing end of this 2" line is hitched to the inner cringle of the sail. It is taken through two 9" single blocks stropped to the outer and inner quarters of the lower yard. It then belays at a convenient point on deck.

169

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

24.17 Stunsail sheets The sheet is of 2" line and is middled. This means that the center of the line, rather than the end, is hitched to the inner clue of the sail. One leg leads either forward and the other aft. All my references are delightfully vague on the run of these lines. I will leave you to work out how the lines run without fouling any others and where they might conveniently belay to. Your own solution, with the experience you have gained so far, will be as good as any able seaman’s.

24.18 Stunsail tack blocks and tacks There is a 9" single block stropped with 2½" line attached to the outer end of each lower stunsail boom. The standing end of the 2½" tack line is hitched to the outer clue of the stunsail. The line is reeved through the block and led aft. The main lower stunsail tack leads to another 9" single block hooked to an eyebolt aft in the quarter piece and then belays to the quarter deck rail. The fore lower stunsail tack leads aft to a similar block in the main chains. It then belays on the quarter deck rail near the fore end. This concludes details of the lower stunsails.

24.19 The main topmast stunsails These sails are quadrilateral, but not rectangular, in shape. They are made of lightweight No. 6 or No. 7 canvas, the cloths running parallel to the inboard side – the leech. The leech edge matches the angle of the adjacent topsails. The outer edge of the sail has a greater angle (illustration opposite). In order to establish their shape, you will need to measure the inner side angle from that of the topsail once it is rigged. Nominally, the angle is equivalent to 4" of gore per cloth. Put another way, each cloth is cut across at the foot at an angle so that the outer edge of each cloth is 4" deeper than the inner edge. This angle may need to be adjusted to match the topsail of your own model. The depth of the main topmast stunsail along the leech is one yard more that that of the main topsail. This is nominally 42' 0", but you will need to measure this from your own topsail. The formula for the width at the foot of the sail is that the number of cloths wide is equal to the number of yards deep the sail is, less two. In this example it is: 42 ÷ 3 = 14 - 2 = 12 cloths, or 21' 0" wide. The outer leech of the sail is also gored by four cloths, making it 8 cloths wide or 14' 0" at the head. There are no reinforcing cloths applied, other than the usual tabling all the around the sail. A reef band 6" wide is added one-eighth the depth from the top of the sail. The boltropes are of 1½" line except for the headrope, which is 1" line. The usual cringles, clues, reef points and bands are applied and provision made for robands along the whole width of the sail’s head.

170

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FOU R

24.20 The fore topmast stunsails These are similar to the main topmast stunsails, other than in size. The depth of the leech is one yard more than the fore topsail 118 and one cloth less in width. There is no reef band fitted to the fore topmast stunsails. Otherwise, all other details are the same as before. Although Steel’s text states “…more than the main-topsail…” (my italics), the plate clearly shows a smaller sail than the main topmast stunsail beside it. This is most likely a proofreading error. Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 114 and facing plate, Sails Pl. 14 (Sweetman page 88 and facing Plate XXI.)

118

171

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Both fore and main topmast stunsails are attached to the yards by robands. In the time period of the Swan class, the sling cleats of this yard were placed one third of the way out along the yard.

24.21 Topmast stunsail halliards Topmast stunsails, laced to their yards at the head, are hoisted by halliards to the arms of the topsail yards. The foot of each stunsail is spread by running the stunsail boom out on the lower yard. The halliards for fore and main topmast stunsails are of 2" line. The standing end is hitched to the yard between the cleats. It is then taken though an 8" single block whose strop, of 2" line, was seized to the topsail yard outer boom iron. The line then passes up to one of a pair of 8" single blocks attached by a 2" span to the topmast cap and reeves through this. It then is taken down through the top to the deck and belays to a suitable point.

24.22 Topmast stunsail sheets The sheets, of 1½" line, are middled as for the lower stunsails. They attach to the inner clue, one end leading forward and the other aft. The fore topmast stunsail sheets lead forward to belay at the fore end of the forecastle. The aft sheets belay to the break of the forecastle. Space will need to be found among the now crowded belaying points to secure the sheets. The main topmast stunsail sheets belay as you decide and circumstances dictate.

24.23 Topmast stunsail tacks The tacks, of 2" line, are bent to the outer clues of the stunsails and reeve through 8" single blocks seized to the outer ends of the lower stunsail booms. Each tack for the fore topmast stunsails leads aft, reeving though an 8" single block seized by the gangway and belayed there. The main topmast stunsail tack also leads aft through an 8" block seized to the quarter deck rail a little aft of the mizzen shrouds. It belays at a convenient point on the rail close to this block.

24.24 Topgallant stunsails It was highly unlikely that a sixth rate would have carried these at this time period. According to Lees, they were only introduced in about 1773.119 I would imagine that larger ships would have carried these at a much earlier date than the smaller rates and, therefore, I would omit them. If required, consult Lees’ book for details. It is still readily available. This concludes details of square sails carried by ship-rigged sloops. 119

172

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 118.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE

inally it is time to describe the fore-and-aft sails. Working from bow to stern, the jibsail, various staysails and gaff sail will be described, as well as the lines that work them. Much of this chapter will be found quite repetitive in nature.

25.1 The jibsail The jibsail (Steel spells this gibb) was the foremost sail carried by a sixth rate prior to the introduction of the flying jibboom. It is triangular in shape, made of lightweight No. 6 or No. 7 canvas. It is carried on the jib stay (see section 18.15). To find its dimensions is a somewhat convoluted process. According to Steel, the depth of leech is “…about twice the depth of the leech of the fore-staysail…” 120 This, in turn, seems to be about 3' 0" less than that of the main staysail (see section 25.17). The depth of the main staysail is such that the foot should clear the boats in the waist. Therefore, you need to work back from the depth of the main staysail, as measured on your model. Terminology for triangular sails is a little different to that of the square sails. The head of the sail, where it attaches to the stay, is also confusingly called the stay. The aft vertical edge is the leech, and the lower edge is the foot of the sail. The width of the foot is such that it is one more cloth wide than the leech is yards in depth. In the case of Resolution – had I rigged sails – the leech would be about 45' 0" long. This is the equivalent of 15 yards, so the jibsail will be 16 cloths wide. While the cloths run parallel to the leech of the sail, the foot is not square to this. It has a gore of 3" per cloth, making an obtuse angle at the clue (illustration next page). According to Steel, the stay edge of the sail is cut with a roach curving downward. The engraved plate does not show this feature.121 I assume this curve approximates the sag or catenary of the jib stay above. Steel’s engraving specifies that the stay edge has 3' 0" of gore per cloth. There is a reinforcement at the peek or peak of the sail. This is 3' 0" long and a cloth wide. At the leech is another reinforcing cloth 6' 0" long. The foremost cloth at the tack is cut long so as to fold back on itself to act as reinforcement as well. Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 116 and facing plate, Sails Pl. 16 (Sweetman page 288 and facing Plate XXI).

120

Ibid, Sails, Pl. 16 facing page 116 and also text, "Rule for finding the quantity of canvas in this sail", page 116 (Sweetman pages 74 and 90). 121

173

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Tabling is applied all around the periphery of the sail. Boltropes are of 1¼" line and the headrope (which should really be called the stayrope!) is a 2¼" line. Boltropes are always sewn to the port side of all fore and aft sails. The usual cringles are worked at all three angles of the sail. There are no reef bands on the jibsail or other staysails. The jib and staysails are suspended from the stays by hanks. These are described by Steel as bent wood hoops, of a diameter a little larger

174

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

than the stay, with a notch in each end.122 However, Lees 123 states that he has never seen a model with wooden hanks, only metal ones. These are somewhat different in shape, with a hook worked into each end. Copper wire about 1" in diameter can be easily worked into the form required (illustration below). Iron hanks are slipped over the stay. The hooked ends are seized around the stay rope to the grommet as shown. If you decide to simulate wooden hanks, painted brass wire will work best. File notches as shown on each end of the length of wire. Remember that the notches are on opposite sides of the diameter! Bend the hank over a suitably sized mandrel. If you leave a little spring in the wire it will be easier to rig to the stay. Slip the hank over the stay, then spring the ends past each other to interlock the notches. The crossed ends are then seized to headrope and grommet.

25.2 The jibsail halliard There are a number of lines controlling the jibsail. The first of these is the jibsail halliard. The halliard consists of 2½" line, 156' 0" long. Hitch the standing end to the peak cringle. The line runs up parallel to the stay and reeves through the lower sheave of the starboard cheek block at the fore topmast head. From there it descends on the starboard side to belay at a timberhead by the aft end of the foremast shrouds. In larger ships the halliard ran double with a block attached to the peak cringle.

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 87: hanks. A sort of wooden rings (sic), formed by the bending of a piece of tough wood, which are confined to the stays by notches cut in the ends (Sweetman page 121).

122

123

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 37.

175

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

25.3 The jibsail sheets The jibsail sheets are also of 2½" rope. 144' 0" of line is required for each. The sheet pendant has a single 9" block spliced into each end. I cannot find a reference as to its length but between 20' 0" and 24' 0" would seem about right. It is attached at its center by a bight through the clue cringle. The running parts of the sheet, equivalent to the falls of the square sails, are called whips or whipfalls. The standing end of the whip on each side is hitched to either an eyebolt on the forecastle opposite the fore mast or in the bulwark. The running part reeves through the block and belays to a timberhead close to the standing end.

25.4 The jib outhaul This is the jib traveler outhaul described in section 18.14. The tack cringle is hooked to the traveler and the hook moused to prevent it accidentally disengaging. A mouse is a lashing of spun yarn applied across the mouth of the hook, its recurved tip preventing the lashing from slipping off.

25.5 The jib downhaul Sometimes also called the jib inhauler, this is 132' 0" long and of 1½" line. A 6" single block is lashed to the jib traveler by its strop. The standing end of the downhaul attaches to the peak cringle. The line runs downward, threading through a couple of the hanks along the stay of the jib to prevent it sagging. It then reeves through the block on the traveler and runs inboard to belay to a timberhead on the starboard side of the bow. It works in opposition to the jib halliard. This completes the rigging to the jibsail. A similar pattern of lines is seen for the remaining staysails: a halliard to raise the sail, a downhaul to lower it and sheets to control the clue of the sail. In the case of quadrilateral staysails, a tack is added to the cringle at the lower forward corner.

25.6 The fore topmast staysail This is similar to the jibsail in that it is triangular in shape and of No. 5, 6 or 7 canvas (illustration opposite). The leech of this sail has the same dimension as that of the fore topsail which, in the case of Resolution, is 39' 0" deep. The width of its foot is given by Steel as "…and 2 or 3 cloths are allowed in the foot for every yard in the depth of the leech."124 By measuring the engraved drawing in Steel’s Sails Pl. 11, Volume I, facing page 109, I understand this to mean the number of cloths in width to be one for every yard in depth of the leech, plus two or three cloths. In practical terms, this works out in my example to 15 cloths. 124

176

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 109 (Sweetman page 84).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

The slope of the stay is given as a gore of 30" per cloth. In other words, the fore edge of each cloth is 30" shorter than the aft edge. This is also indicated on Steel’s engraving. As a matter of interest, if one uses considerable magnification, one is to be able to see a tiny inscription within the sail that reads: F 2 Gore per Cloth i " 6

This translates as two feet and six inches of gore for each cloth. Once I had spotted this detail, I noticed that all the other staysail engravings had similar inscriptions.

177

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The tablings, reinforcements, boltropes and earings, all of 2" line, are similar to those of the jibsail. The hanks – that is to say, the grommets – are spaced at 27" intervals. The sail is attached either to the fore topmast preventer stay or a separate fore topmast staysail stay. This stay is described below.

25.7 The fore topmast staysail stay This additional stay was used from about 1745 to 1815.125 I am unsure if smaller ships were always rigged with this line. However, Steel specifies a 2½" line with 2" tackle and 8" single blocks. On the other hand, this stay is not shown in the engravings on page 208* et seq., Volume I. If you decide to rig this stay, it is done as follows: Attach the standing end of the stay around the bowsprit between the topmast stay collars and spritsail yard truss. Make an eye splice in the end of the line, then pass the line around the bowsprit and through this eye. The line is then threaded through the hanks of the sail. It then reeves through the upper sheave of the cheek block at the fore topmast head, port side. The running end has an 8" double block spliced in. (Steel specifies a single block in the tables, but his description calls for a double block here). The fall consists of a 2" line. An 8" single block is attached by a long strop to the port side trestle tree, aft of the fore mast. As a general rule, the strop of a block is the same size as the line reeving through it. The standing end of the fall is attached to the upper end of this block. The line passes up through the double block, down through the single, up again though the second sheave of the double, then down through the fore top to the deck. It belays to the fore jeer bitts.

25.8 The fore topmast staysail halliard As is the case for the jibsail, there are analogous lines that control the sail. The first of these is the fore topmast staysail halliard. In small ships it is single and is hitched to the peak cringle. The halliard consists of 150' 0" of 2" line. The line runs up through the lower sheave of the port side cheek block at the fore topmast head. It then passes down through the fore top to belay either at the foot of the fore mast or to a timberhead opposite the after fore shrouds, port side. If the halliard is double, then a single block is seized to the peak cringle. The standing end of the halliard is seized to the stay collar at the mouse, then runs down through the block and back up to the cheek block. It then belays as described above.

125

178

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 121.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

25.9 The fore topmast staysail sheets The fore topmast staysail sheets consist of 120' 0" of 2½" line. As for the jibsail, there is a long pendant middled to the clue cringle. Again, there are single 9" blocks attached to each end. The standing end of each whip is hitched to an eyebolt just aft of those for the jibsail sheets. The running ends belay to the timberhead just aft of the ones used for belaying the jibsail sheets.

25.10 The fore topmast staysail downhaul The downhaul is similar to that of the jibsail. It consists of 102' 0" of 1" line. A 5" single block is seized to the fore topmast staysail stay just above the bowsprit. The standing end of the downhaul is hitched to the peak cringle, taken down through one or two hanks, then through the block and inboard to belay at a timberhead on the starboard side of the forecastle.

25.11 The fore staysail Not to be confused with the fore topmast staysail, the fore staysail is raised aft of the former on the fore stay. This sail is also triangular and made of fairly heavy canvas; No. 1 to No. 3 weight. Curiously, Steel does not specify how the size of the sail is arrived at. I estimate that the length of the sail’s stay edge will extend from just above the fore stay heart to a little below the mouse. In the case of Resolution this is about 28' 0". The gore is given by Steel as 21" to 23" per cloth. By simple geometry, this gives a depth along the leech as 20' 0". The width of the sail will, therefore, be 11 cloths. The usual tablings, reinforcements, boltropes and cringles of 2" line are applied. Grommets for the hanks are spaced at 27" intervals along the stay edge of the sail. It follows the same style of construction as the fore topmast staysail (refer to the illustration, previous spread).

25.12 The fore staysail halliard This and the other ropes follow the usual pattern of control lines to this sail. 132' 0" of 2" line are required. The standing end is hitched to the peak cringle as usual. An 8" single block is hooked to an eyebolt under the fore part of the starboard trestle tree. The line is reeved through this block, then taken down to belay at the fore topsail sheet bitts. If the halliard runs double, the standing end is hitched to an eyebolt under the port trestle tree, down through a block hitched to the peak of the sail, then continues as described before.

25.13 The fore staysail sheets These are similar to the other sheets. 132' 0" of 2½" line is specified. Two 8" blocks on a long pendant are middled to the clue. The standing end of each whip is hitched to an eyebolt on the deck near the fore end of the fore shrouds and the running end belayed to the fore topsail sheet bitts.

179

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

25.14 The fore staysail downhaul This is a 1½" line, 90' 0" long. A 6" single block is seized to the preventer stay collar or laniard. The line is bent to the peak cringle, taken down through one or two of the hanks, and through the block. It then runs inboard to belay on the port side at a timberhead close to the bowsprit.

25.15 The fore staysail tack This tack holds down the fore corner of the sail. It is 9' 0" long and of 1½" line. One end of the line bends to the tack cringle and the other either to the fore preventer stay heart, or directly to the bowsprit.

25.16 The main staysail stay There are several staysails rigged between the fore and main masts. The lowest of these is the main staysail. Above this are the main topmast staysail, possibly a middle staysail (however, see section 25.22) and the main topgallant staysail. These will be described in sequence. The main staysail stay is of worn 3" line and has a 1" laniard. It is rigged similarly to the main stay and preventer stay. However, instead of a mouse, the upper end of the stay is worked with an eye. It is set up above the other rigging at the main mast head. The lower end is set up with a luff-tackle around the fore mast. The luff tackle consists of a single and double block arrangement, each block having a thimble and hook. The laniard is used to tension the stay. Steel does not specify sizes, but a 7" or 8" block length should be adequate here. Do not set up the stay with the laniard until it is threaded through the hanks of the sail!

25.17 The main staysail The main staysail is triangular and, as its name implies, is carried on the main staysail stay. The sail is of sturdy No. 1 to No. 3 weight canvas. Its depth is such that it should clear the boats in the waist. In Resolution, this measures about 30' 0". The gore along the stay is cut at between 17" and 19" per cloth. Grommets for the hanks are at spaced at 27" intervals. Tablings, reinforcing pieces, 2" boltropes and cringles are as for the other staysails.

25.18 The main staysail halliard This follows the pattern established. As this sail is of heavier canvas, I would make the halliard double. The halliard is of 2" line. 138' 0" will be required. The standing end is hitched to the first port side main shroud just below the top. Alternatively, it is hitched to the mast head above the standing rigging. An 8" single block is attached to the peak cringle of the sail. The line reeves

180

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

through this, then back through another 8" single block attached to the starboard side first main shroud at the same level as the hitched standing end. The line passes down, and an 8" double block is spliced into its end. This is described by Steel.126 However, a double block is not specified in his tables. An 8" single block stropped with a hook and thimble is hooked to an eyebolt in the bulwark opposite the main mast, starboard side. The fall is eye-spliced to the strop of this block. This line is taken up through the double block, down through the single, up again through the second sheave of the double, then down once more to belay at the rail above the single block.

25.19 The main staysail sheets These are similar to those previously described. They are of 2" line, 48' 0" long. The blocks are 8" single ones, as before. The standing ends of the whips are fastened to eyebolts in the spirketting below the quarter deck rail, opposite the main mast. The running ends belay to the quarter deck rails above.

25.20 The main staysail downhaul The downhaul is of 1½" line, 78' 0" long. There is a 6" single block seized to the preventer stay, close to the foremast. The standing end of the line hitches to the peak cringle, is taken through one or two of the hanks, then through the single block to belay at the fore jeer bitts.

25.21 The main staysail tack This is of 2" line, 12' 0" long. One end is bent to the tack cringle and the other to the fore mast or fore jeer bitts.

25.22 The middle staysail According to Lees,127 this sail was introduced in about 1773. I suspect that it may never have been carried on the smaller rates. This sail was rigged immediately above the main staysail. Middle staysails were abolished in 1815. If you require information on this particular sail, please refer to Lees’ book.

126

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 214 (Sweetman page 176).

127

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 123.

181

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

25.23 The main topmast staysail This sail is quadrilateral in shape and of No. 5 or No. 6 canvas. Steel states that the length of the leech is four or five yards deeper than the main topsail. This calculates as approximately 17 yards or 51' 0". The width is one or two cloths wider than the depth in yards, or 18 cloths. The bunt of the sail – its fore edge – is 2/5 the depth of leech, or about 20' 0" in my example (illustration opposite). The bunt is gored by two cloths’ width, tack corner forward. The stay is gored 22" per cloth with holes for the hanks spaced at 27". There are a number of reinforcements. The bunt has a lining half a cloth wide. The clue piece is two yards long and the peak piece one yard. The usual tablings are also applied. The boltrope is of 1¼" line and headrope of 2" line. Cringles are also added at each corner of the sail. Unlike the main staysail, the main topmast staysail did not require a separate, dedicated stay after the introduction of the preventer stay. If you have not rigged a preventer stay, you will need to add a staysail stay before proceeding.

25.24 The main topmast staysail halliard The halliard is 156' 0" long and of 2½" line. An 8" single block is attached to the peak cringle, as usual. The standing end of the halliard is eye-spliced. The line is then passed around the main topmast head above the cheek blocks, then back through itself. Next, the line reeves through the single block, back up through the lower sheave in the starboard cheek block, then down to belay at the main jeer bitts.

25.25 The main topmast staysail sheets These follow the same pattern as before: two 8" single blocks are attached to a pendant, which is middled to the clue earing of the sail. The whips, of 2½" line, have their standing ends hitched to eyebolts on the outer ends of the quarter deck breast beam. The running ends are taken through the blocks and belay to the fore ends of the quarter deck rails. In later ships, the standing ends of the sheets attached to the aftermost skid beam and the running ends secured around iron pins thrust horizontally through holes in the same skid beam.

25.26 The main topmast staysail downhaul This is 90' 0" long and of 1½" line. A 6" single block is also required. The block is seized to the preventer stay just aft of the fore mast. The standing end of the downhaul is bent to the peak cringle, carried through one or two hanks, through the 6" block, then down to belay either at the fore jeer bitts or an eyebolt at the foot of the fore mast.

182

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

183

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

25.27 The main topmast staysail tack According to Steel, 12' 0" of 2" line are needed for the tack. However, Lees states that two tacks are required on a quadrilateral sail; one at the nock and the other at the tack. The nock of a sail is the upper corner between the stay and bunt edges. One end of the first tack line is bent to the nock cringle. The other end is made fast to the stay just above the lead block. The second tack is rigged as follows: The line is taken through the tack cringle and the ends taken through again. Each end is then led through a thimble attached to the first or second fore shroud each side, and then belayed to a shroud cleat below that, a few feet above the deadeye.

25.28 The main topmast staysail brails Brails are lines rigged to gather in a fore-and-aft sail in much the same manner as buntlines and leechlines on square sails, except that they act in a horizontal direction. Steel’s tables list these lines for a sloop, but give no details. For a 20-gun ship, the specifications are for 186' 0" of 1½" line, two thimbles and two 6" single blocks. I would use these figures as a guide. A cringle is fitted two-thirds of the way down the leech of the sail (see illustration previous page). The brail is middled and bent to this cringle. The ends of the brail pass forward on each side of the sail. The two single blocks are seized to the topmast stay collar, one on each side (see section 16.12). The brails lead through these and down to belay at the now-crowded fore jeer bitts.

25.29 The main topgallant staysail This sail is also quadrilateral, of lightweight No. 7 canvas and rigged on the topgallant staysail stay (see section 25.30). It is similar in construction to the main topmast staysail. For this sail, the depth of the leech is given as "nearly of the same depth as the leech of the middle staysail."128 The middle staysail’s depth is calculated as four to seven yards deeper than the main topgallant sail. The latter (section 24.1) is 21' 0" deep. I would add the minimum number of yards to something less than this, giving a leech of approximately 30' 0" deep. According to Steel, there are six to eight cloths more than the depth in yards. Minimally, this is 10 + 6, or 16 cloths wide. However, the engraving shows the width to be only 13 cloths. The stay is gored at 24" per cloth, with grommets at 27" intervals. The length of the bunt is not specified, but, proportional to the engraving,129 it will be about 7' 0" deep.

184

128

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 112 (Sweetman page 86).

129

Ibid, Sails Pl. 12, facing page 111 (Sweetman Plate XIX, facing page 86).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

Tablings and cringles are as usual with a boltrope of 1¼" all around. There is reinforcement half a cloth wide along the bunt, a 6' 0" piece at the clue and a 3' 0" one at the peak, as before.

25.30 The main topgallant staysail stay This stay is 144' 0" long and of 2" line. There is either a thimble or 7" single block needed to rig the stay. The upper end of the stay is spliced into the topgallant stay below the serving. Seize the block or thimble to the center of the aft fore topmast crosstree. The stay reeves through this and belays in the fore top.

25.31 The main topgallant staysail halliard This consists of 168' 0" of 1½" line. The standing end of the line bends to the peak cringle. The line passes up through the sheave in the main topgallant mast above the hounds. It then leads down to the deck to belay to the bitts aft of the main mast.

25.32 The main topgallant staysail sheets These are double, as all the others. Steel lists two 6" single blocks for whips, as before. However, Lees 130 and Petersson 131 both show the running ends of the sheets leading directly down to belay to the quarter deck rails.

25.33 The main topgallant staysail downhaul 120' 0" of 1" line are required, plus a 5" single block. The standing end is attached to the peak cringle and the line taken through one or two hanks. The 5" block is seized to the strop of the thimble that the topgallant stay runs through. The downhaul reeves through this block and down to belay at the fore jeer bitts.

25.34 The main topgallant staysail tacks Again, two tacks are required. The short tack attaches to the nock cringle. The other end is secured to the staysail stay just above the block or thimble. The longer tack is middled to the tack earing. The ends belay on the quarter deck rails aft of the main topmast staysail tacks.

130

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 124.

131

Petersson, Rigging Period Ship Models, page 95.

185

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

25.35 The mizzen staysail Once again, this sail is quadrilateral, made from medium weight No. 2 or No. 3 canvas. It follows the pattern of the other similar staysails. The depth of the sail is such that the foot is about 6' 0" to 7' 0" above the quarter deck. This, for Resolution, works out to a leech of about 27' 0" long. The width of the sail is 15 cloths. Steel does not give the width proportionality, but it seems to be about equal to the depth of the leech in the engraving.132 The bunt is gored over two cloths, similarly to that of the other quadrilateral staysails. The gore along the stay is 10" to 12" per cloth. Adjust this to fit your model. Grommets for the hanks are spaced at 24" intervals. The reinforcing cloths are applied as before. The one on the bunt is half a cloth wide, the peak piece 3' 0" long and clue piece 6' 0" long. Tablings, a 2" boltrope, and cringles are all applied as usual. A brail cringle is added to the leech of the sail just above the clue reinforcing cloth.

25.36 The mizzen staysail stay A dedicated stay is rigged to hoist the sail. This consists of 60' 0" of worn 3" line. The upper end is eye-spliced and taken around the mizzen mast head. A collar of 2½" line is lashed around the main mast about halfway between the deck and trestle trees. Before doing this, a thimble is seized into the collar and placed so that it faces aft. Another thimble is turned into the end of the stay, then the two thimbles lashed using a 1" laniard to tension the stay.

25.37 The mizzen staysail halliard Bent to the peak cringle, the mizzen staysail halliard consists of 132' 0" of 2" line. Three 7" single blocks will be needed. The standing end of the halliard is eye-spliced, taken around the mizzen mast head and through its own eye. One 7" block is seized to the peak cringle. The line reeves through this block, then up to a second block either lashed to or suspended from an eyebolt under the fore part of the port side mizzen lower trestle tree. The halliard then descends to the port side of the quarter deck, reeves through the third block which is hooked to an eyebolt, and belays at the rail.

25.38 The mizzen staysail sheets The sheets consist of a 2" line, 60' 0" long. This line has a short and a long leg secured at the clue cringle. The arrangement of these sheets differs from the others. First a thimble is worked into the end of the short leg. The long leg passes through a 7" single block hooked to an eyebolt near 132

186

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, plate facing page 107, Sails Pl. 9 (Sweetman Plate XVI, facing page 83).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

the side of the deck on the windward side, then back through the thimble. The line then belays to a timberhead at the quarter deck rail close to the block on deck. When the sail is set on the other side, the block is unhooked and moved to the windward side again.

25.39 The mizzen staysail downhaul This consists of 72' 0" of 1" line. The standing end is bent, as usual, to the peak cringle. The line passes through one or two hanks. A single 6" block (not specified by Steel) is lashed to the mizzen staysail stay just below the tack. The downhaul reeves through this block, then down to belay at the main jeer bitts.

25.40 The mizzen staysail tacks Again, two tacks are required for this sail. The shorter tack, of 2" line, is bent to the nock cringle. The other end is secured to the stay close to the thimble. The longer tack, single this time, is bent to the tack cringle and secured to an eyebolt in the deck aft of the main mast.

25.41 The mizzen staysail brails The brails run on each side of the sail. They are also of 2" line. The line, 96' 0" long, is middled and seized to the brail cringle. Two 7" single blocks are lashed to the stay collar on the main mast. Each part of the brail passes on either side of the sail, through these blocks, then down to belay at the main jeer bitts.

25.42 The mizzen topmast staysail This is the last of the staysails fitted to a sixth rate. (Larger ships with mizzen topgallant masts also carried a mizzen topgallant staysail. For details of the mizzen topgallant staysail, consult Lees.133) The mizzen topmast staysail is quadrilateral and of lightweight No. 7 canvas. Its size is determined as follows: The leech is a yard or two deeper than the mizzen topsail. In Resolution, the mizzen topsail is 31' 0" deep. Therefore, the leech will be about 34' 0" deep. The width is 2 to 5 cloths more than the leech’s depth in yards. This gives a width of 13 cloths. The bunt is given as either 3/7ths or 1/3rd the depth of the leech, or between 11' 4" and 14' 6". Steel states that the stay is gored 24" per cloth, so this will determine the actual length of the bunt. The bunt is also gored by one cloth in its length.

133

Lees, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, pages 124-125.

187

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The usual tablings and reinforcements are applied to the peak, bunt, and clue of the sail. The boltrope is of 1¼" line with the customary cringles worked in. Steel’s engraving of this sail shows the grommets for the hanks to be about 29" apart.134 However, this is not specified in the text.

25.43 The mizzen topmast staysail halliard 102' 0" of 1½" line are required for the halliard. The standing end is bent, as usual, to the peak of the sail. The line is carried up to a block that is seized to the mizzen topmast on the starboard side above the rigging at the hounds. It then leads down to the deck to belay aft of the mizzen mast.

25.44 The mizzen topmast staysail sheets These are the usual arrangement of double sheets. Again, 102' 0" of 1½" line are required. The line is middled to the clue cringle. Two thimbles or 6" blocks are seized to the foremost mizzen shrouds, port and starboard, below the crossjack yard. The lines reeve through the thimbles or blocks, then belay to the quarter deck rail by the foremost mizzen shrouds.

25.45 The mizzen topmast staysail downhaul The downhaul is 66' 0" long and of 1" line. The standing end bends to the peak cringle. A 5" single block is seized to the stay near the tack. The line is taken through one or two hanks, then reeved through the block, and belayed at the main jeer bitts aft of the mast.

25.46 The mizzen topmast staysail tacks As the sail is quadrilateral, two tacks are needed. They are of 1½" line. The upper one bends to the nock of the sail and secures to the collar of the mizzen topmast stay. The lower one is middled and bends to the tack cringle. Each leg of the tack is taken through a thimble seized to the second main shroud about halfway up the inboard side. The running ends are then belayed at the rail below. This concludes the rigging of the staysails.

134

188

Steel, Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, plate facing page 111, Sails Pl. 12 (Sweetman Plate XIX facing page 86).

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

25.47 The mizzen sail or mizzen course No driver boom was fitted until about 1790, so the mizzen sail, also called the mizzen course, was loose-footed. In looking at photographs of contemporary models, the lateen-like longer mizzen yard was still carried by some ships in around 1775.135 Both the pre- and post-restoration photographs of Atalanta, 1775, show no driver boom.136 A sailor-made model of Seahorse, 38 guns of 1794, has a driver boom fitted.137 Unfortunately, there seem to be few contemporary models from this time period that were rigged or that have not had extensive "restoration" carried out to their rigging. Annoyingly, I cannot say with any certainty, between these dates, exactly when the driver boom was first introduced. The mizzen sail was quadrilateral and made of No. 5 or No. 6 canvas. In this case, the foot is cut in a curve, convexity down. This curve or roach was dictated by the sailmaker’s experience (illustration on following page). The depth of the after leech is such that the foot of the sail clears the deck by six feet or a little more. Measure this on your own model because, depending on the angle of the gaff, individual results will vary. In the case of Resolution, this works out to about 38' 0". The width of the mizzen sail will be about 16' 0", equivalent to 9 cloths. Again, you will need to tailor the sail to your model. The gore of the cloths along the head of the sail will need to match the gaff angle. This will also dictate the length of the fore leech or mast leech of the sail. This is the edge running parallel to the mizzen mast. I would make the roach along the foot of the sail between 1' 0" and 1' 6" deep. The usual tablings are added. There is a reinforcing band one cloth wide and 9' 0" long at the clue and one, each 3' 0" long, at the peak and nock respectively. The boltrope is of 2" line, (the headrope is 1¼") with various cringles added. There are three brail cringles along the after leech, spaced at approximately equal intervals. Also cringles are spaced every 30" along the mast leech for the lacing that attaches the sail to the mizzen mast. Grommets are worked along the head of the sail for the lacing to the gaff. There are two to each cloth, similar to reef points. The corners of the sail may have either the usual cringles or thimbles worked in instead, as shown overleaf. A reef band was fitted one-fifth of the distance up from the foot of the sail, as measured along the mast leech. Cringles were fitted at the ends of the reef band as usual. 135

NMM model of a 64 gun ship, c.1775, catalog number 1775-2.

136

NMM negatives 7579 (stern quarter) and 7577(A) (broadside). Catalog no. 1775-3, new ref. SLR0340/D7826.

137

NMM negative 7408 (broadside). Catalog number 1794-5.

189

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

25.48 The earings to the mizzen sail The earings are the lashings of the mizzen sail to the gaff as well as to the thimbles at the corners of the sail. The lashings, or earings, are of ¾" line. There is one earing at the peak and another at the nock of the sail. Each is 30' 0" long. One end of the line is eye-spliced and the line taken around the gaff and through itself. Pass several turns around the gaff and through the peak thimble, then expend the end of the line in cross-turns around itself, and complete with a hitch. Repeat this at the nock thimble of the sail. In practice, the sail would be bent to the gaff with earings and lacings (see next section) before the gaff was raised. Therefore, a halliard was not required.

190

CHAPTER T WENT Y-FIVE

25.49 The mizzen sail lacing to the gaff 132' 0" of ¾" line is needed to lace the mizzen sail to the gaff. The lacing is applied in a continuous spiral. Begin by splicing one end of the line to the peak earing. Once laced, the other end is fastened to the nock earing.

25.50 The mizzen sail lacing to the mast For this, 90' 0" of worn 2" line is used. One end of the line is spliced to the nock thimble. It is then taken back and forth around the front of the mizzen mast and is passed through each cringle in the mast leech in sequence as it descends (illustration opposite, far left). This enables the sail to slide up and down the mast freely. The far end of the lacing is made fast to the tack earing.

25.51 The mizzen sail tack This consists of 12' 0" of 1½" line. It is set up as a laniard through the tack cringle and to an eyebolt in the deck below.

25.52 Mizzen sail sheets The sheets are 96' 0" long and are of 2½" line. Two 9" single blocks are needed to rig this line. One block is hooked to the clue of the sail. The other block attaches to an eyebolt on the fore side of the tafferel, clear of the ensign staff, or to a horse. A horse is an iron rod, cranked down at each end with a flattened foot which is bolted to the deck. The block is hooked to an iron traveler ring on the horse. This enables the sheet block to slide from side to side as required. I have no dimensions for the horse, but 1" in diameter seems reasonable. The horse might, in the case of a Swan class ship, be between 6' 0" and 8' 0" long and placed aft of the rudderhead cover. The sheet is rigged as follows: The standing end of the line is eye-spliced to the single block on the horse. It then reeves through the block hooked to the clue, back through the block on the horse, and the running end made fast to either a cleat at the side of the deck or on the quarter deck rail.

25.53 The mizzen sail brails There are three pairs of brails attached to the mizzen sail. These are, from top to bottom, the peak brail, middle brail, and throat brail. All are of 1½" line. The peak brail is middled to the peak brail cringle – the uppermost one on the aft leech of the sail. Each side is led forward and up through the aftermost pair of blocks stropped to the gaff (see section 18.46). The lines lead down to belay at the quarter deck rails.

191

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

The middle brail is also middled to the middle cringle. The lines lead up to the middle pair of brail blocks on the gaff, then down through thimbles lashed halfway down the aftermost mizzen shroud. 7" single blocks were sometimes substituted here. The brails then belay to shroud cleats near the deadeyes of the same shroud. The throat brails, after being middled to the throat cringle, lead to the foremost pair of brail blocks and then down to belay at a cleat at the foot of the mizzen mast. This concludes the normal running rigging for a sixth rate of the 1760-1780 time period. There were, I’m sure, incremental changes and improvements as well as individual variations in rig. However, I believe that I have described the usual practice for this time span to the best of my ability.

192

CHAPTER T WENT Y-SIX

CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX

his concluding chapter describes the last of the miscellaneous necessary ropes. Most of these items, such as entering ropes, anchor buoys and ropes, and stern ladders, have already been described in previous chapters.

26.1 Rudder pendants These lines are used as emergency steering gear. The rudder pendants are each 24' 0" long and of 4" cabled line. The standing end of each has a hook and thimble worked in. The hook is attached to the ring at the end of the rudder chain and moused. I can find no reference to the length or link size of the chain in either Steel or The Shipbuilder’s Repository. My supposition is that the links are of 1" iron, 3" or 4" long. The chain itself is long enough to attach with a shackle to the spectacle plate (section 7.35, Volume II). This chain spans the width of the counter and around to the side of the ship. 14' 0" of chain should meet this requirement. A tackle attaches to the pendant by a thimble eye-spliced into the running end. Steel’s tables do not specify the sizes of tackle or tackle blocks for any ship below 36 guns. Proportionately, about a 2" fall, 120' 0" long, a 20" long tackle block, and a 10" single block each side will be close to correct. Strops to the blocks should be 3½". These tackles would only be fitted when required. Usually the chain was looped over two or three hooks along the tuck rail (see the illustration in section 12.29, Volume II. A third hook at the outer end of the tuck rail is not shown). Allow enough scope in the chain for the rudder to turn freely each way. There is an eyebolt in the mizzen chains for the tackle to hook to when deployed. The running end of the tackle will lead up to the quarter deck.

26.2 Anchor cables Some model makers may wish to show anchors being stowed at a point in the process where the cable is bent to the anchor ring. Normally, while at sea, cables would be unbent and sent below. The bend used to attach the cable is shown at the right. The cable end is first taken through the anchor ring, then once around itself. Three seizings are then applied, as shown. A standard cable’s length was 120 fathoms or 720' 0".

193

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

For a sixth rate, the bower and sheet anchor cables’ size is 13". This measurement is derived from the proportion that the circumference should be half an inch for every foot of the ship’s beam.138 Six or seven of these cables were carried by a sixth rate. In addition, one smaller cable of 7" or 8" was carried for the stream anchor. When the ship was moored, the cables came inboard via the hawse holes and secured as follows. Each cable laid aft to the riding bitts (see sections 8.29 & 8.30, Volume II). The cable passed around the outer side of the pin under the crosspiece. It was then taken diagonally in and up to take a turn around the pin above the crosspiece. It then ran aft to the main hatch (illustrated below). The cable on the starboard side is said to be turned "with the sun," the port side being its mirror image or "against the sun."

26.3 Cable stoppers In addition to the turn around the bitts, the cables were given additional security by means of the stoppers. These were short lengths of rope, double wall knotted at one end (marked "e," illustration above). The opposite end of each was spliced to a ringbolt in the deck aft of the bitts, there being two or more stoppers used on a cable. The cable was secured to each stopper by means of a 2" laniard. The stoppers acted as a kind of additional shock absorber. For a sixth rate, stoppers were of 7" cabled line, 13' 0" long before knotting and seizing with 1" line. Ten stoppers were carried by a sixth rate. There are six stopper ringbolts each side of the upper deck in a Swan class ship (see the deck plan on pages 76-77, Volume II). If you wish to show an anchor being hauled up using the capstan, there are detailed descriptions in other readily available references, such as Lavery.139 Although I cannot find a reference to cable size in Steel, other authors including Brian Lavery make this assertion. See Lavery, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600-1815, page 44.

138

139

194

Ibid, pages 47 to 49.

CHAPTER T WENT Y-SIX

26.4 Conclusion This last detail for mooring concludes our voyage of discovery in masting and rigging a typical sixth rate of the 1770’s. Now that we have dropped anchor, I hope that I have covered everything adequately, clearly and with a minimum of mistakes. For any errors or omissions, mea culpa. Many thanks to you, the reader, for following the course of this narrative through to its bitter end.140

F I N I S , D.G.

“Every book is going to be corrected because that is the process of history. No one person writes the definitive account. It moves forward by debate and correction.” – Peter Hart, historian, 1963 - 2010

This expression derives from when a cable was let out to its full length. The end still aboard ship and turned around the riding bitts was referred to as the bitter end. It has no association with the sense of taste.

140

195

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

196

IND EX

INDE X A Addendum to hull fittings Anatomy of rope Anchor cables Anchor stowage

30 33 193 140

B Backstay, fore topgallant Backstay, main topgallant Backstays, fore topmast Backstays, main topmast Battens, mast head Bees Bibs Block, ensign halliard Block, fish tackle Block, fore topsail yard tye Block, main topsail yard tye Block, peak halliard Block, spritsail yard halliard Blocks for the fore yard Blocks for the main yard Blocks, brail for gaff Blocks, buntline Blocks, clueline for fore topsail Blocks, clueline mizzen topsail yard Blocks, leechline Blocks, lower yard jeer tye Blocks, lower yard lift Blocks, main topgallant sheet Blocks, main topsail clueline Blocks, main topsail yard lift Blocks, mizzen topsail yard brace Blocks, mizzen topsail yard lift Blocks, mizzen topsail yard sheet Blocks, main topsail yard buntline Blocks, sister Blocks, spritsail yard brace Blocks, spritsail yard clueline Blocks, stunsail tack

83 82 71 71 20 26 17 114 137 122 122 113 88 95 95 113 63 123 116 64 100 98 123 123 123 114 117 115 122 70 64 88 170

Blocks, throat halliard 113 Blocks, topgallant yard clueline 131 Blocks, topsail sheet lift 98 Bobstays 44 Bolsters 20 Boom irons, topsail yard 123 Boomkin shrouds 46 Booms, upper studdingsail 124 Bower anchor stowage 141 Bowline collar & stay, fore topgallant 84 Bowlines & bridles, main topgallant 164 Bowlines & bridles, main topsail 158 Bowlines & bridles, mizzen topsail 161 Bowlines and bridles, fore course 153 Bowlines and bridles, fore topgallant 165 Bowlines and bridles, fore topsail 159 Bowlines and bridles, main course 151 Bowsprit 26 Bowsprit cap 27 Bowsprit collars, preparing 38 Bowsprit gammoning 37 Bowsprit horses 43, 80 Bowsprit saddle 28 Bowsprit shroud collars 41 Bowsprit shrouds 45 Bowsprit woolding 27 Bowsprit, finishing the 29 Brace blocks, mizzen topsail yard 114 Brace pendants, fore topsail yard 123 Brace pendants, main topsail yard 123 Brace pendants, mizzen topsail yard 116 Braces, cross-jack yard 112 Braces, fore topgallant yard 133 Braces, fore topsail yard 129 Braces, fore yard 111 Braces, main topgallant yard 134 Braces, main topsail yard 128 Braces, main yard 111 Braces, mizzen topsail yard 118 Braces, spritsail yard 91

197

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

198

Brail blocks, gaff Brails, main topmast staysail Brails, Mizzen sail Brails, mizzen staysail Bridles and bowlines, fore topgallant Bridles and bowlines, fore topsail Buntline blocks Buntline blocks, fore topsail yard Buntline blocks, main topsail yard Buntlines, fore course Buntlines, fore topsail Buntlines, main course Buntlines, main topsail Buntlines, mizzen topsail Buntlines, spritsail Burton pendants

113 184 191 187 165 159 63 122 122 153 159 151 158 161 166 46, 69

C Cable stoppers Cable, laying left-hand Cables, anchor Cap, bowsprit Caps, lower mast Caps, topmast Cat backs Cat blocks Cat falls Catharpins Chains, shank painter Cheeks, lower mast Chocks Cleat, spritsail yard sling Cleats, gammoning Cleats, shroud Clueline blocks, fore topsail Clueline blocks, main topsail Clueline blocks, mizzen topsail yard Clueline blocks, spritsail yard Clueline blocks, topgallant yard Cluelines (cluegarnets), fore course Cluelines (cluegarnets), main course Cluelines, fore topgallant Cluelines, fore topsail

194 35 193 27 19 24 140 139 140 56 143 16 20 27 29 134 123 123 116 88 131 152 150 165 159

Cluelines, main topgallant Cluelines, main topsail Cluelines, mizzen topsail Cluelines, spritsail Collar, fore stay Collar, inner bobstay Collar, inner bobstay, continued Collar, main stay Collar, main topmast preventer stay Collar, mizzen stay Collar, outer bobstay Collar, sprit topsail bowline Collar, spritsail yard lift Color, standing rigging Course, fore Course, main Course, mizzen Cross trees, lower mast Cross trees, topmast Cross trees, topmast Cross-jack yard braces Cross-jack yard fittings Cross-jack yard lifts Cross-jack yard slings Cross-jack yard truss Crossing lower yards Crowsfeet Crupper, jibboom

164 157 161 166 42 39 40 52 73 52 43 86 85 18 152 145 189 20 24 24 112 106 108 107 108 100 67 75

D Downhaul, fore staysail Downhaul, fore topmast staysail Downhaul, jibsail Downhaul, main staysail Downhaul, main topgallant staysail Downhaul, main topmast staysail Downhaul, mizzen staysail Downhaul, mizzen topmast staysail Drafting a typical mast Drafting a typical yard

180 179 176 181 185 182 187 188 5 11

E Earings, head

149

IND EX

Earings, Mizzen sail Earings, stunsail Ensign Ensign halliard block Ensign halliards Entering ropes Euphroe tackle Euphroes F Faking down Falls, fore topsail yard tye Falls, jib guy, Finishing the bowsprit Fish back Fish davit Fish tackle Fish tackle block Fish tackle hook and pendant Fitting studdingsail irons Fittings, cross-jack yard Flemish horses Fore and main shrouds Fore and main topmast backstays Fore and main topmast shrouds Fore and main topmasts Fore course Fore course bowlines and bridles Fore course buntlines Fore course cluelines or cluegarnets Fore course leechlines Fore lower stunsails Fore preventer stay Fore sheet Fore shrouds Fore stay Fore stay collar Fore stay preventer collar Fore staysail Fore staysail downhaul Fore staysail halliard Fore staysail sheets Fore staysail tack

190 169 119 114 118 143 65 65

Fore tack Fore tack blocks Fore topgallant backstay Fore topgallant cluelines Fore topgallant bowlines and bridles Fore topgallant sail Fore topgallant sheet blocks Fore topgallant shrouds Fore topgallant stay Fore topgallant stay & bowline collar 103 Fore topgallant yard braces 125 Fore topgallant yard lifts 92 Fore topmast preventer stay 29 Fore topmast stay 139 Fore topmast staysail 137 Fore topmast staysail downhaul 138 Fore topmast staysail halliard 137 Fore topmast staysail netting 138 Fore topmast staysail sheets 99 Fore topmast staysail stay 106 Fore topmast stunsails 124 Fore topsail 50 Fore topsail bowlines and bridles 71 Fore topsail buntlines 69 Fore topsail clueline blocks 21 Fore topsail cluelines 152 Fore topsail leechlines 153 Fore topsail reef tackles 153 Fore topsail sheets 152 Fore topsail yard 153 Fore topsail yard brace pendants 168 Fore topsail yard braces 54 Fore topsail yard buntline blocks 154 Fore topsail yard lift blocks 50 Fore topsail yard lifts 54 Fore topsail yard parrels 42 Fore topsail yard stirrups & horses 43 Fore topsail yard tye block 179 Fore topsail yard tye falls 180 Fore topsail yard tyes 179 Fore yard 179 Fore yard braces 180 Fore yard, blocks for the

154 45 83 165 165 164 123 83 85 84 133 135 77 76 176 179 178 80 179 178 171 159 159 159 123 159 159 160 159 122 123 129 122 123 127 126 123 122 125 124 93 111 95

199

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

200

Futtock plates Futtock shrouds Futtock staves Futtock staves, topmast

57 64 55 70

G Gaff brail blocks Gaff parrel Gaff peak halliard Gaff throat halliard Gaff: preparatory work Gammoning Gammoning cleats Gaskets Guy falls, jib Guy pendant thimbles & strops, jib Guy pendants, jibboom

Horses, lower yard Horses, main topsail yard Horses, mizzen topsail yard Horses, spritsail yard Horses, topgallant yard

98 123 115 89 131

113 113 114 114 112 37 29 149 92 89 84

I Inner bobstay collar and heart Inner bobstay collar, continued Inner tricing lines

39 40 111

H Halliard block, spritsail yard Halliard, fore staysail Halliard, fore topmast staysail Halliard, gaff peak Halliard, gaff throat Halliard, jibsail Halliard, main staysail Halliard, main topgallant staysail Halliard, main topmast staysail Halliard, mizzen staysail Halliard, mizzen topmast staysail Halliard, spritsail Halliards, ensign Halliards, stunsail inner Halliards, topgallant yard tye Halliards, topmast stunsail Head earings Heart, inner bobstay Hook and pendant, fish tackle Hoops, woolding Horses, bowsprit Horses, Flemish Horses, fore topsail yard Horses, jibboom

88 179 178 114 114 175 180 185 182 186 188 88 118 169 133 172 149 39 138 18 43, 80 124 123 81

J Jack Jeer tye block strops, lower yard Jeer tye blocks, lower yard Jeer tyes and tackle, lower yard Jewel blocks, topgallant yard Jib guy falls Jib guy pendant thimbles & strops Jib stay Jib traveler Jibboom Jibboom crupper Jibboom guy pendants Jibboom horses Jibboom saddle Jibsail Jibsail downhaul Jibsail halliard Jibsail outhaul Jibsail sheets

119 100 100 102 131 92 89 92 79 30 75 84 81 27 173 176 175 176 176

K Kedge anchor stowage

141

L Lacing, mizzen sail to the gaff Lacings or rope bands Ladders, stern Laying left-hand cable Laying right-hand rope Leechline blocks Leechlines, fore course

191 149 144 35 34 64 152

IND EX

Leechlines, fore topsail Leechlines, main course Leechlines, main topsail Lift blocks, fore topsail yard Lift blocks, main topsail yard Lift blocks, mizzen topsail yard Lift collar, spritsail yard Lifts, cross-jack yard Lifts, fore topgallant yard Lifts, fore topsail yard Lifts, lower yard Lifts, main topgallant yard Lifts, main topsail yard Lifts, mizzen topsail yard Lifts, spritsail yard Lines, serving Lower mast caps Lower mast cheeks Lower mast cross trees Lower mast head Lower mast spindle, making a Lower mast standing rigging Lower mast trestle trees Lower studdingsail rigging Lower yard jeer tye block strops Lower yard jeer tye blocks Lower yard jeer tyes and tackle Lower yard lift blocks Lower yard lifts Lower yard slings Lower yard stirrups and horses Lower yard studdingsail booms Lower yard tackle falls Lower yard tackle pendants & blocks Lower yard truss pendants

159 150 157 123 123 117 85 108 135 127 105 135 127 117 91 39 19 16 20 17 15 36 19 167 100 100 102 98 105 104 98 99 109 98 99

M Main course Main course bowlines and bridles Main course buntlines Main course cluelines or cluegarnets Main course leechlines Main lower stunsails

145 151 151 150 150 168

Main preventer stay Main preventer stay collar Main sheet Main shrouds Main stay Main stay collar Main stay tackles Main staysail Main staysail downhaul Main staysail halliard Main staysail sheets Main staysail stay Main staysail tack Main tack Main topgallant backstay Main topgallant bowlines and bridles Main topgallant cluelines Main topgallant sail Main topgallant sheet blocks Main topgallant sheets Main topgallant shrouds Main topgallant stay Main topgallant stay span Main topgallant staysail Main topgallant staysail downhaul Main topgallant staysail halliard Main topgallant staysail sheets Main topgallant staysail stay Main topgallant staysail tacks Main topgallant yard braces Main topgallant yard lifts Main topmast preventer stay Main topmast preventer stay collar Main topmast preventer stay tackle Main topmast staysail Main topmast staysail brails Main topmast staysail downhaul Main topmast staysail halliard Main topmast staysail sheets Main topmast staysail tack Main topmast stunsails Main topsail Main topsail bowlines and bridles

53 53 151 50 52 52 108 180 181 180 181 180 181 152 82 164 164 163 123 164 82 83 84 184 185 185 185 185 185 134 135 73 73 74 182 184 182 182 182 184 170 155 158

201

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Main topsail buntlines 158 Main topsail clueline blocks 123 Main topsail cluelines 157 Main topsail leechlines 157 Main topsail reef tackles 158 Main topsail sheets 158 Main topsail yard 122 Main topsail yard brace pendants 123 Main topsail yard braces 128 Main topsail yard buntline blocks 122 Main topsail yard lift blocks 123 Main topsail yard lifts 127 Main topsail yard parrels 126 Main topsail yard stirrups & horses 123 Main topsail yard tye block 122 Main topsail yard tye falls 125 Main topsail yard tyes 124 Main yard 93 Main yard braces 111 Main yard, blocks for the 95 Making a lower mast spindle 15 Mast head battens 20 Mast head, lower 17 Mast trucks 25, 135 Masts & spars, preparing to make 12 Masts, topgallant 25 Materials for spinning rope 32 Middle staysail 181 Mizzen sail (mizzen course) 189 Mizzen sail brails 191 Mizzen sail earings 190 Mizzen sail lacing to the gaff 191 Mizzen sail sheets 191 Mizzen sail tack 191 Mizzen shrouds 46 Mizzen stay 50 Mizzen stay collar 52 Mizzen staysail 186 Mizzen staysail brails 187 Mizzen staysail downhaul 187 Mizzen staysail halliard 186 Mizzen staysail sheets 186 Mizzen staysail stay 186

202

Mizzen staysail tacks Mizzen topmast Mizzen topmast shrouds Mizzen topmast stay Mizzen topmast staysail Mizzen topmast staysail downhaul Mizzen topmast staysail halliard Mizzen topmast staysail sheets Mizzen topmast staysail tacks Mizzen topsail Mizzen topsail bowlines and bridles Mizzen topsail buntlines Mizzen topsail cluelines Mizzen topsail sheets Mizzen topsail yard Mizzen topsail yard brace blocks Mizzen topsail yard brace pendants Mizzen topsail yard braces Mizzen topsail yard clueline blocks Mizzen topsail yard horses & stirrups Mizzen topsail yard lift blocks Mizzen topsail yard lifts Mizzen topsail yard sheet blocks Mizzen topsail yard truss parrel Mizzen topsail yard tye & halliard

187 24 70 71 187 188 188 188 188 160 161 161 161 161 115 114 116 118 116 115 117 117 115 116 116

N Nave lines Netting, fore topmast staysail Nun buoy

104 80 141

O Outer bobstay collar Outer tricing lines Outhaul, jibsail

43 110 176

P Parrel, gaff Parrels, fore topsail yard Parrels, main topsail yard Parrels, topgallant yard Peak halliard block Peak halliard, gaff

113 126 126 132 113 114

IND EX

Pendant and hook, fish tackle Pendants, Burton Pendants, guy jibboom Pendants, rudder Pendants, spritsail yard brace Plates, futtock Preparing bowsprit collars Preparing to make masts & spars Preventer collar, fore stay Preventer stay, fore Preventer stay, fore topmast R Ratlines Ratlines, topmast Reef points Reef tackles, fore topsail Reef tackles, main topsail Rigging, lower studdingsail Robands, stunsail Rope bands (robands) Rope, anatomy of Rope, laying right-hand Rope, materials for spinning Ropes, entering Ropewalk Rudder pendants S Saddle, bowsprit Saddle, jibboom Sail, fore topgallant Sail, main topgallant Sail, mizzen Serving lines Shank painter chains and ropes Sheet & lower yard lift blocks, topsail Sheet blocks, fore topgallant Sheet blocks, main topgallant Sheet blocks, mizzen topsail yard Sheet, fore Sheet, main Sheets, fore staysail

138 46, 69 84 193 91 57 38 12 43 54 77

Sheets, fore topmast staysail Sheets, fore topsail Sheets, jibsail Sheets, main staysail Sheets, main topgallant Sheets, main topgallant staysail Sheets, main topmast staysail Sheets, main topsail Sheets, mizzen sail Sheets, mizzen staysail Sheets, mizzen topmast staysail Sheets, mizzen topsail Sheets, spritsail 55 Sheets, stunsail 70 Sheets, topmast stunsail 148 Shroud cleats 160 Shroud collars, bowsprit 158 Shrouds, boomkin 167 Shrouds, bowsprit 169 Shrouds, fore 149 Shrouds, fore topgallant 33 Shrouds, fore topmast 34 Shrouds, futtock 32 Shrouds, main 143 Shrouds, main topgallant 31 Shrouds, main topmast 193 Shrouds, mizzen Shrouds, mizzen topmast Sister blocks 28 Sling cleat, spritsail yard 27 Slings, cross-jack yard 164 Slings, lower yard 163 Slings, spritsail yard 189 Span, main topgallant stay 39 Sprit topsail bowline collar 143 Spritsail 98 Spritsail buntlines 123 Spritsail cluelines 123 Spritsail halliard 115 Spritsail sheets 154 Spritsail yard 151 Spritsail yard brace blocks 179 Spritsail yard brace pendants

179 159 176 181 164 185 182 158 191 186 188 161 167 170 172 134 41 46 45 50 83 69 64 50 82 69 46 70 70 27 107 104 90 84 86 165 166 166 88 167 87 64 91

203

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Spritsail yard braces Spritsail yard clueline blocks Spritsail yard halliard block & strop Spritsail yard horses Spritsail yard lift collar Spritsail yard lifts Spritsail yard sling cleat Spritsail yard slings Spritsail yard standing lift Spritsail yard stirrups Standing lift, spritsail yard Standing rigging color Standing rigging, lower mast Staves, futtock Stay & bowline collar, fore topgallant Stay collar, main preventer Stay collar, mizzen Stay span, main topgallant Stay, fore topmast Stay, mizzen staysail Stay, fore Stay, fore topgallant Stay, fore topmast staysail Stay, jib Stay, main Stay, main preventer Stay, main staysail Stay, main topgallant Stay, main topgallant staysail Stay, main topmast preventer Stay, mizzen Stay, mizzen topmast Staysail, fore Staysail, fore topmast Staysail, main Staysail, main topgallant Staysail, main topmast Staysail, middle Staysail, mizzen Staysail, mizzen topmast Stern ladders Stirrups, spritsail yard Stowage, kedge anchor

204

91 88 88 89 85 91 27 90 90 89 90 18 36 55 84 53 52 84 76 186 54 85 178 92 52 53 180 83 185 73 50 71 179 176 180 184 182 181 186 187 144 89 141

Strops, jib guy pendant Strops, lower yard jeer tye block Studdingsail booms, lower yard Studdingsail irons Studdingsail irons, fitting Stunsail inner halliards Stunsail robands and earings Stunsail sheets Stunsail tack blocks and tacks Stunsails, fore lower Stunsails, fore topmast Stunsails, main lower Stunsails, main topmast Stunsails, topgallant

89 100 99 93 99 169 169 170 170 168 171 168 170 172

T Tack blocks, fore Tack blocks, stunsail Tack, fore Tack, fore staysail Tack, main Tack, main staysail Tack, main topmast staysail Tack, mizzen sail Tackle falls, lower yard Tackle pendants, lower yard Tackle, euphroe Tackle, fish Tackle, lower yard jeer tyes Tackle, main topmast preventer stay Tackle, truss pendant Tackles, main stay Tackles, reef for fore topsail Tacks, main topgallant staysail Tacks, mizzen staysail Tacks, mizzen topmast staysail Tacks, stunsail Tacks, topmast stunsail Thimbles Thimbles, jib guy pendant Throat halliard blocks Throat halliard, gaff Topgallant masts

45 170 154 180 152 181 184 191 109 98 65 138 102 74 104 108 160 185 187 188 170 172 44 89 113 114 25

IND EX

Topgallant stunsails Topgallant yard clueline blocks Topgallant yard horses Topgallant yard jewel blocks Topgallant yard parrels Topgallant yard tye halliards Topgallant yard tyes Topmast caps Topmast cross trees Topmast futtock staves Topmast ratlines Topmast stunsail halliards Topmast stunsail sheets Topmast stunsail tacks Topmast trestle trees Topmast, mizzen Topmasts, fore Topmasts, main Tops Topsail sheet lift blocks Topsail yard boom irons Topsail, fore Topsail, main Topsail, mizzen Traveler, jib Trestle trees, lower mast Trestle trees, topmast Tricing lines, inner Tricing lines, outer Trucks, mast Truss parrel, mizzen topsail yard

172 131 131 131 132 133 132 24 24 70 70 172 172 172 24 24 21 21 58 98 123 159 155 160 79 19 24 111 110 25, 135 116

Truss pendant tackle Truss pendants, lower yard Truss, cross-jack yard Tye & halliard, mizzen topsail yard Tye block, fore topsail yard Tye block, main topsail yard Tye falls, fore topsail yard Tye falls, main topsail yard Tyes, fore topsail yard Tyes, main topsail yard Tyes, topgallant yard

104 99 108 116 122 122 125 125 124 124 132

U Upper studdingsail booms

124

V Vangs

118

W Woolding hoops Woolding, bowsprit Wooldings

18 27 18

Y Yard, fore Yard, fore topsail Yard, main Yard, main topsail Yard, mizzen topsail Yard, spritsail

93 122 93 122 115 87

205

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

206

COLOR SECTION

The author's 1:48 scale model of Resolution. It is at the stage almost ready for crossing the topgallant yards. The main and fore topsail braces & lifts have to be fitted first. The rigging on this model is identical to that for a Swan class ship-rigged sloop.

207

The Fully Framed Model, The HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780 Volume Four

Above: the fore top. A point of interest to note is the fore jeers with its 'M' shaped arrangement of the line through the jeer blocks. The double strops to the jeer blocks are clearly shown.The topmast shroud laniards are well seen in this photograph, as well as the futtock plates and shrouds. The blocks suspended just under the top are also visible, as is the serving on the lower shrouds. Right: a view from above the fore top. Note the cleats for the tricing lines and the pegs retaining the strops of the blocks suspended under the top. Cleats on the topmast shrouds can also be seen in this photograph. Prominent in this view are the lower yard lifts and their blocks at the cap. The arrangement at the main top is identical.

208

colour section

Above: the main yard in the process of being fitted out with its stirrups, horses and blocks. It is much easier to do all this work off the model and while held by a set of "third hands." The catenary curves of the horses have been fixed with matt acrylic medium as described in the text. Left: the fore topsail yard. The Flemish horses can be seen in this view, as well as the parrel around the topmast. The topsail yard tye block and buntline blocks at the center of the yard are visible through the topmast shrouds. The thin tye double blocks and tye falls can be seen aft of the shrouds. Note the lashing at the inboard end of the studdingsail boom. The positions of the stirrups and horses have yet to be adjusted. Left: a view of the starboard forecastle. In this photograph the cat block and falls are seen on the right, as well as the inboard end of the cat beam in its spanshackle at the upper left of the picture. Note the lines in the foreground that are belayed around the timberheads.

209

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Above: the port stern quarter of Resolution. The lower shrouds, chains and ratlines are well shown in this view. Note the lines that belay to the quarter deck rail. Belaying pin racks replaced rails when the quarter deck bulwarks were closed in and built up. Right: a view of the stern of the model. The rudder chains can be seen. Also visible is the method of mounting the ship's 19' 0" longboat (left) and 16' 0"cutter at waterline level.

210

COLOR SECTION

Above: a starboard view of the bow of the ship. The bowsprit shrouds and fore tack block can be seen in this view. Also seen are the bobstays below the bowsprit, the gammoning, fore stay, fore preventer stay, and the main stay collars. Rigging is incomplete in this photograph; the fish davit is temporarily mounted to starboard. Left: the jackstaff and jack. The author has tried to drape the jack in a naturallooking position. The halliard for the jack can be seen belayed to a small cleat near the base of the staff. Note the bees and bee block with the fore topmast and preventer stays. The fore topmast staysail netting and jibboom horses are also seen in this photograph.

211

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Above: a view looking down on the forecastle and waist of the completed model. The anchor stowage on the starboard bow with the nun buoy hung in the fore shrouds are well demonstrated. The bowsprit horses, correctly shown without any knots at intervals, pass though the stretchers of the fore topmast staysail netting.

Right: the stay tackles are deployed, about to hoist the pinnace from the spare spars in the waist. This overhead view shows the tackles hooked to the ringbolts in the pinnace. A number of running rigging falls can be seen belayed to the forecastle breastwork and the timberheads on the forecastle. The 26' 0" pinnace is more fancy that the other workboats. It has panelled, mitered moldings between gunwales and the thwarts. Note also the leathered oars lying across the thwarts and the tin reinforcements on the ends of their blades. Their details were simulated with paint.

212

COLOR SECTION

213

THE FULLY FRAMED MODEL, THE HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 VOLUME FOUR

Completed rigging on the author's model of Resolution, 1772-1773. 214