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VITTORIA CERETTI Miuccia,Raf and The Future of Prada THE PLAN FOR Off-WHITE After Virgil Abloh
WHERE DOES YOUR T-Shirt Really come From?
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A Booklet with YE and The Sehgal
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june Miuccia,Raf and The Future of Prada
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The Plan for Off-White After Virgil Abloh
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Where Does Your T-Shirt Really come From?
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By Tim Blanks
By Vikram Alexei
By Sarah Kent
Julia Pacha in LSM
ALEXANDRA BIRCKEN:
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Bodyrevolt.
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BTS:
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Billie Eilish World Tour2022 By Vitali Gelwich
Bottega Veneta:
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Honey Dijon x Stefano Pilati By Davit Giorgadze
Miuccia,Raf and The Future of Prada
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ar looms in Eastern Europe. “This is not the time for pure fantasy,” Miuccia Prada sagely observed during our Zoom call on Sunday. It seemed an appropriate moment to revisit the question she posed two years ago, as the pandemic first made its presence felt in fashion. How can fashion be meaningful at a time like this? Miuccia and her co-conspirator Raf Simons were seated at a desk against a blank screen, looking a little like newsreaders. She wore a sensible grey sweater and white shirt. He sported a black hoodie, branded
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“ANTWERP.” She had a sheaf of papers on which she would occasionally scribble, keeping on top of what she wanted to say. Occasionally she’d tap the papers on the desktop, again like a newsreader. There was the banter, too, the verbal to- and froing that suggested a duo who have settled into a comfortably contentious working relationship, co-hosts as much as co-creative directors. It could have been a network broadcast, bar the short break Miuccia took for a glass of champagne. But back to the topic of the day: fashion’s meaning.
MILAN — In 2017, Virgil Abloh, Davide De Giglio and Andrea Grilli all got the word “WOLF” tattooed on their right arms. “We were like a pack, we were like brothers,” said De Giglio, the quiet mastermind behind New Guards Group, the Milanese company that co-founded luxury streetwear sensation Off-White with Abloh, a trained architect turned Kanye West creative director. “Virgil was a legend, but first he was a friend,” said Grilli, Off-White’s CEO since 2019. Piloted by Abloh, De glio and Grilli, Off-White became one of the fastest growing brands in fashion. But in November 2021, less than polymathic Abloh four years after the polymathic Abloh was recruited to luxury’s big leagues as men’s artistic director of Louis Vuitton, he died suddenly, at 41, after a private battle with cardiac angiosarcoma, a rare heart cancer.
Now, Off-White is gearing up for its first show since the death of its founding designer, to be held tonight at Paris Fashion Louis Vuitton chief Michael Burke, who hired Abloh in 2018, has compared him to Karl Lagerfeld. “I saw the same visionary approach to life, the same attraction between designer and audience — not intellectual, but popular. They were both absolutely Karl Lagerfeld. “I saw fearless about doing things differently, tireless in their work ethic, identical in their curiosity and equally plugged into the zeitgeist.”
“The Plan for Off-White After Virgil Abloh” •
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Where Does Your Shirt Really come From?
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or brands, it imposes a burden of traceability that has just become much more pressing. Fashion companies do not want forced labour in their supply chains. But the unpleasant truth is that few of them have enough insight into where they source from to credibly guarantee their products are free of any taint. This is true even of the industry’s biggest and best-resourced businesses. Nearly a third of the companies assessed in The BoF Sustainability Index 2022 do not provide sufficient public information to suggest they have a full understanding of even
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their direct suppliers. A similarly limited number publish information indicating they are assessing human rights risks across their full supply chain. None indicate an ambition to achieve full supply chain traceability. Tackling the opacity within fashion’s supply chains that enables human rights.
“The reg crackdow both h •
that enables human rights abuses to go undetected and challenges efforts to establish accountability or track progress on environmental goals is one of the key levers of change identified in the report. The regulatory crackdown in the US has boththird-party intermediaries that effectively “launder” the material, according to a study published in December by Sheffield Hallam University’s Helena Kennedy Centre for International Justice. H&M declined to comment. Nike and Ralph Lauren did not respond to a request for comment. On the flipside, the Uighur Forced Labour Prevention Act that came into force on Tuesday steps up the onus on companies to prove their supply chains are free of forced labour. helped prompt action to establish more ur Forced Labour Prevention Act that came into force on Tuesday steps up the onus on companies to prove their supply chains are free of forced labour. helped prompt action to establish more ur Forced Labour Prevention Act that came into force on Tuesday steps up the onus on companies to prove their supply chains are free of forced labour. helped prompt action to establish more robust traceability in fashion’s supply chains and revealed the inadequacy of the current systems.
gulatory wn in the helped.” •
More than 100 well-known brands, including H&M, Nike and Ralph Lauren, remained at risk of sourcing cotton from Xinjiang via third-party intermediaries that effectively “launder” the material, according to a study published in December by Sheffield Hallam University’s Helena Kennedy Centre for International Justice. H&M declined to comment. Nike and Ralph Lauren did not respond to a request On the flipside, prevention Act that came into force on Tuesday steps up the onus on companies their supply chains are free of forced labour. supply chains are free.
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