M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E
BATTLE OF THE BULGE.
ISSUE DEC. 2020
CHANUKAH, OOH NA-NA: A CELEBRATION OF JUBAN COOKING.
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LET THERE BE LIGHT! AN EASY, FRY-FREE SHABBOS MENU.
EDITOR'S LETTER
THE CHANUKAH ISSUE
The festival of lights just got a little brighter. AS A KID ,
Chanukah was at the top of my list of favorite Jewish holidays. It is a holiday where you can still go about weekday activities and it centers around parties, presents and Chanukah gelt (aka money). At the end of eight days of different — yet somewhat similar in the fried latke smell that leaves with you — parties, we always ended off on a high note, counting our Chanukah gelt and keeping tabs on which relatives were our new favorites (obviously based on who gave us the most). Beyond the money, food and parties, I grew up celebrating Chanukah in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, where celebrations were all about the “mitzvah tank” parades and rallies with the Lubavitcher Rebbe, of blessed memory, which were so impactful. Today, my appreciation for Chanukah goes beyond Chanukah gelt (I am now the one shelling out the cash) and fried foods (I am the one frying all those latkes); I now deeply understand the rooted meaning and inspiration behind our beloved Festival of Lights. Chanukah signifies the power of light and how even a small amount of light can have immeasurable effects. We translate the light to mean good deeds that each and every one of us has the potential of spreading, far beyond our own personal reach. The tremendous role that the oil played in the miracle of Chanukah has made it the shining star of our food traditions. This year in the Fleishigs Magazine test kitchen, we decided to inject some adventure into our fried foods by celebrating international flavors — beyond the classic latkes and donuts. Our resident feast expert Reena Goldberger shared some of her Cuban favorites, like tostones (twice-fried plantains) served with ropa vieja and two different salsas. Her bunuelos (Cuban donuts) with guava glaze did not last very long in the kitchen! Culinary expert Naomi Ross brought some Indian flavors
to the table with her addictive (and gluten-free!) fried pakoras with tangy tamarind chutney. Fried chicken king Yehuda Joffre gave us the secret to the perfect fried chicken nuggets, along with various spice rubs and dips, which would make a great chicken nugget bar for your Chanukah party. I share a few fun ways to elevate some Jewish deli for Chanukah, including a fried spring roll inspired by the classic pastrami sandwich. In order to gear up for our International Fried Chanukah feature, I decided to create a lightened up Shabbos menu utilizing olive oil in lighter ways. One such recipe is our well-received lentil beet salad, which was already sent out to email subscribers as a sneak peek. I highly appreciate the use of olive oil in non-fried preparations, like the pumpkin olive oil cake from Yossy Arefi’s new cookbook, Snacking Cakes. We featured that book in our epic gift guide, alongside some other fantastic new cookbooks and loads of gift ideas for the upcoming Chanukah season. This issue aims to bring some unexpected ideas and recipes to help make this Chanukah one that is special and unique, leaving 2020 with a bang. Bitayavon, Shifra
Foolproof Latke Recipe Peel and grate 4 Yukon Gold potatoes and 1 onion, then squeeze absolutely dry with paper towels or a kitchen towel. Whisk 1 egg, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, a pinch of freshly ground black pepper and 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour. Add grated potatoes and onion. Heat 1 inch of canola oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Scoop out latkes to desired size and fry for about 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with sea salt. Serve hot or at room temperature. Yield: about 10 latkes.
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Alana White COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Dear eater of meat, rejector of milk, words to you we bring, and the ability to try a plethora of new things. Your kitchen skills we hone, allowing you to make dishes good down to the bone. Our pictures are fly, our recipes easy, our lemons squeezy, our articles like a good babka are layered and juicy, you see, it’s all for you, the one who reads, makes, bakes, and at the end of every day takes the cake. This issue was designed to the raucous musical stylings of Band of Horses, Nancy Sinatra and Yehuda! Go Browns!
TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine
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BUTCHER'S CUT
This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of deckle roast
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BACKPOCKET Donut guide: Everything you need to know to make the best donuts at home, every time.
82 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Fireside: Where the meat pizza was born 92 TRAVEL Colorado
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SEASONAL
International Fried Chanukah: Travel the globe and fry beyond latkes and donuts
104 CULINARY SCHOOL Bagel making 112 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Terra di Seta winery 118 GIFT GUIDE Something for everyone this Chanukah season 123 COOKBOOK Exclusive recipes from some of the seasons hottest new cookbooks 126 L'CHAIM International wines to gift 128 RECIPE INDEX
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130 LAST BITE The Red Herring
CHANUKAH FEAST
Chanukah in Havana with Reena Goldberger GUEST EDITOR: NAOMI ELBERG @NAOMI_TGIS
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Lighten up your Shabbos meal
NAOMI ELBERG , originally from Montreal and now living in Michigan, found her true calling for baking after working in early childhood education for nearly 10 years. In 2014, TGIS Challah was born (aka Thank Goodness it’s Shabbos), offering homemade challah, babka and more to locals. Naomi started doing cooking and baking demonstrations nationwide and grew her following and passion for all things baked. Naomi can be reached at TGIS.challah@gmail.com or on Instagram @naomi_TGIS.
DONUT GUIDE BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ
Guest editor Naomi Elberg provided us with her go-to list of everything you’ll need to make donuts. Be sure to check out Naomi’s tried-and-true method on Instagram, and together with this master list, you’ll become a pro just in time for Chanukah.
HIWARE STAINLESS STEEL SPIDER
A spider is truly a multi-purpose tool, but is especially useful to have on hand to remove donuts from hot oil. The stainless steel material makes it heat resistant and extremely durable. $10.99 | amazon.com
*Prices listed are based on press time; prices, especially on Amazon, change often.
CARLISLE CAFÉ FAST FOOD TRAYS Cafeteria trays are totally underrated. They are inexpensive, dishwasher safe and come in a variety of colors (which is great for the kosher cook). Arrange portioned out balls of dough on the trays and cover with plastic wrap to freeze — the dough balls will keep their shape. $1.99 and up, prices vary based on size | amazon.com
SUR LA TABLE EXPANDABLE COOLING RACK Don’t transfer freshly fried donuts to paper towels — use cooling racks instead. Whether you are preparing a small batch of donuts or enough to feed a crowd, this rack will come in handy. It’s also useful for glazing donuts. Before glazing, place parchment paper underneath the rack to catch the drips. Wait until the donuts are cool enough to handle before glazing. $25 | surlatable.com
OXO GOOD GRIPS GLASS CANDY AND DEEP FRY THERMOMETER Accurate oil temperature is crucial to a fried donut’s success — not hot enough and the donuts will end up soggy; too hot and the donuts will end up browning before cooking in the center. This thermometer clips onto any pot and has both Celsius and Fahrenheit markers. $19.99 | bedbathandbeyond.com
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VICTORINOX CLASSIC 4.5” SERRATED UTILITY KNIFE Use a serrated knife to portion dough. Do not rip or tear it, as those motions will deflate the dough. This classic, multipurpose knife comes in a variety of colors. $9.10 | amazon.com
RACHAEL RAY LIL’ HUGGERS 2-PIECE COOKING TONGS When frying donuts on parchment squares, tongs are the safest way to remove the parchment once the dough is in the oil. These tongs have the perfect grip, are heat resistant and dishwasher safe and lock for easy storage. $24.99 | target.com
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ROUL ‘PAT SILICONE PASTRY MAT This extra-large non-slip mat is essential when working with dough and will allow you to use less flour when kneading. Available in two large sizes (31½ x 23 and 24½ x 16½). $54.95-$69.99 | surlatable.com
NORPRO CUPCAKE INJECTOR DECORATING ICING SET This inexpensive, easy-to-use cupcake injector can be used for filling donuts of any kind. You can even fill it with two different fillings side by side (i.e. jelly + buttercream) for a swirl effect. The kit comes with eight different tips for a variety of decorating effects.
To get all these deals in one spot, hover your phone's camera over this smart code. (If you don't know how this works, please consult your youngest child.)
NAOMI'S Store Bought Fillings Resource Guide
$9.36 | amazon.com
CHEF GIANT STAINLESS STEEL 5-CUP ROTARY SIFTER Sifting flour and confectioners’ sugar makes such a difference in the end result and a large rotary sifter is perfect for the job. The 5-cup capacity allows you to sift a lot of flour or confectioners’ sugar instantly and with little mess. $11.49 | chefgiant.com
WORTHY LINERS 4X4-INCH PRE-CUT PARCHMENT SHEETS (200 PACK) Place portioned dough balls onto 4x4-inch squares of parchment paper to rise and fry perfectly. These sheets are kosher certified and available in a variety of sizes and quantities. $5.99 | amazon.com
ATECO DISPOSABLE DECORATING BAGS (100 PACK) Disposable pastry bags are an easy way to transfer filling into piping syringes and allow you to pipe without the mess of a reusable bag. Available in a variety of quantities. $16.95 | amazon.com
SUR LA TABLE FLEX CORE SILICONE SPATULA
MY WEIGH KITCHEN SCALE A kitchen scale is the ultimate must-have for accurately weighing ingredients, portioning even balls of dough and many other daily uses. This particular scale has a sturdy stainless steel base and a hinged shield over the display, making for super easy cleanup. $48 | amazon.com
Silicone spatulas are heat resistant and last much longer than wood or bamboo ones. Use to transfer cream into piping bags, melt chocolate in a double boiler or mix a glaze. $12 | surlatable.com
Henry & Henry brand of fillings is a favorite shortcut of mine. The various fillings (Bavarian cream, lemon, chocolate, strawberry, raspberry, etc.) come in 2-pound clear plastic sleeves. Available on Amazon or from Kitchen Caboodles (@kitchencaboodles). Certified kosher by the OU. The Peppermill in Brooklyn has a wide variety of fillings that I order every year. Some of my favorites include halva, dairy white chocolate, Belgian chocolate, Bavarian cream, caramel, Rosemarie chocolate, imitation hazelnut chocolate and more. Order on Instagram (@thepeppermill) or at thepeppermillinc.com. I keep LorAnn flavoring oils handy for glazes because a little goes a long way and the flavor is great without tasting too artificial. Since they are not water based, they won't cause glazes and melted chocolate to seize when added. My favorites are cake batter, cookies and cream, butter rum and Irish cream. Certified kosher by Star-K. Available on Amazon and www.lorannoils.com.
BACK POCKET
Classic Sufganiyot Yield: 2 dozen donuts
By: Naomi Elberg
Note: Start with 7 cups of flour and add more as needed. The temperature and humidity level of your environment plays a role in how the dough will come together. 2½ ½ 2
cups warm water cup sugar tablespoons active dry yeast 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon vanilla sugar 4 large eggs ½ cup canola oil 2 tablespoons brandy or vanilla extract ½ teaspoon pink Himalayan salt or fine sea salt ¼ cup bread/high-gluten flour 7-10 cups all-purpose flour Canola oil, for frying Fillings and/or glaze of choice 1. Add warm water, sugar and yeast to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Let yeast proof until bubbles begin to form. 2. Add vanilla sugar, eggs, oil and brandy or vanilla and mix until combined. Add salt, bread flour and 7 cups of all-purpose flour, adding more flour as needed, until the dough becomes one smooth ball.
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3. Let dough rest in the bowl for 2-3 minutes, then knead again on medium/high speed for 6-7 minutes, until the dough is soft, smooth and elastic. 4. Turn the dough onto a non-slip mat or lightly floured work surface. 5. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut the dough into equal portions (30 grams for mini sufganiyot, 60 grams for regular) and place each portion onto a 4x4-inch square of parchment paper. Spray the tops of the balls with non-stick cooking spray or brush lightly with canola oil to prevent the dough from drying out. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise for 1-1½ hours. 6. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Heat approximately 2 inches of oil in a pot or Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat to 360-375°F. Working in batches of 4, place dough balls carefully in oil with the parchment paper square (hold the sides of the parchment square as you lift it up and drop it in). Once in the oil, remove paper with tongs. The donuts should separate easily from the paper after a few seconds. Fry for 2 minutes per side, then transfer to the prepared cooling rack with a slotted spoon or spider.
HOW TO FREEZE DOUGH & FRY FRE SH Place portioned dough balls on a greased tray or baking sheet and freeze. Once frozen solid, transfer balls to freezer-safe Ziploc bags. When ready to fry, let thaw on a baking sheet under parchment squares. To keep the dough from drying out while thawing, spray with non-stick cooking spray and cover loosely with plastic wrap. It can take about 4 hours at room temperature to thaw fully. Dough is ready when it feels soft to the touch and bounces back when you press gently.
7. Let cool, then fill with desired fillings and top with glaze or dust with confectioners’ sugar.
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TO MAKE DONUT HOLES Portion dough into 30-gram (1-ounce) balls and place onto parchment squares. Let rise for 30-45 minutes. Fry in batches until golden, then transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Once all donut holes are fried, coat in glaze, if desired, while still warm.
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BACK POCKET
By: Naomi Elberg
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BACK POCKET
Chocolate Glaze
Rosewater Pistachio Glaze
Yield: 2 cups
Yield: 1 cup
cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute ½ ¼ cup non-dairy creamer 1 tablespoon light corn syrup 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 cups confectioners’ sugar ½ cup chocolate chips
1¼ 1 1 ¼
1. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Add non-dairy butter, non-dairy creamer, corn syrup and vanilla extract to a medium saucepan over medium heat; stir until smooth and fully incorporated. Add confectioners’ sugar and chocolate. Remove from heat and stir until melted and silky. 2. Dip donuts in glaze, then transfer to the prepared cooling rack to set.
Vanilla Donut Glaze
1. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Whisk sugar, non-dairy creamer, rosewater and a few drops of food coloring, if using. 2. Dip donuts in glaze, then top with chopped pistachios. Transfer donuts to the prepared cooling rack to set.
“Donut Shop” Glaze Yield: 1 cup
Yield: 1 cup
1¼ 2 1 ½
cups confectioners’ sugar tablespoon non-dairy creamer teaspoon rosewater syrup Pink food gel, optional cup raw unsalted pistachios, finely chopped
I recommend using this glaze for donut holes, aka munchkins.
cups confectioners’ sugar tablespoons canola oil tablespoon light corn syrup teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Whisk all ingredients together until smooth. If necessary, add a drop of water to thin glaze. 2. Dip donuts in glaze, then transfer to the prepared cooling rack to set.
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
¼ cup milk
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Whisk sugar, milk and salt until smooth. If you prefer a thinner glaze, add more milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, until desired consistency is reached. 2. Dip donut holes in glaze, one at a time, then use a fork to flip until fully coated. Carefully transfer the donut holes to the prepared cooling rack to set.
S H O RTC U T G L A Z E S :
Cookies and Cream Glaze
NO
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USING SIFTED C O N F ECT I O N E RS’ SU GA R M A K E S I T E AS I E R TO I N C O R P O R AT E I N TO T H E G L A Z E .
Microwave a container of vanilla frosting (I prefer Pillsbury) for 30 seconds or until melted. Transfer ½ cup of frosting to a bowl and stir in 1 crumbled chocolate graham cracker crust. Mix until fully combined. Use this concept with other flavors of frosting and your favorite candies or crushed cookies.
Lotus Cookie Butter Glaze Microwave a jar of Lotus cookie butter for 30 seconds or until melted. Transfer to a bowl and stir, then dip donuts in glaze. Top with crushed Lotus cookies.
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We’ve talked about pot roast before — that broad category of braising meats that is one of the home cook’s best secrets. How can a recipe that is so simple taste so delicious? Here’s another secret: you have more options than just chuck roast or brisket from which to choose. Meet deckle, a lean braising roast that is worth adding to your repertoire. It’s the perfect balance of lean and marbled and falls somewhere between first and second cut brisket. It’s often more economical, being less famous than brisket or short ribs, which tend to steal the show in this category. As with other pot roasts, it can be sliced or pulled. However, beware: as with other kosher cuts, other parts of the steer get this name, especially in non-kosher butchery. Deckle is a Yiddish and German word meaning “cap” or “cover,” and considering how many muscles overlap each other, it’s not surprising that it gets used to describe multiple cuts. The most common non-kosher use for the term deckle is what we, in kosher, call second cut brisket. Also called the “point” of the brisket, it sits on top of the whole brisket, hence the name “deckle.” Other cuts that are sometimes called a
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“deckle” in non-kosher are what we call crescent steak or even top of the rib roast. In kosher butchery, deckle is generally used to describe a braising roast cut from the outer shoulder/chuck (sometimes called chuck deckle). At Grow & Behold (and most kosher butchers), we cut our deckle from the outer muscle that covers the joint, where the shoulder and brisket meet. However, if you are using a non-kosher deckle recipe, make sure it calls for braising, since the kosher deckle needs long cooking to become tender. Follow the same braising techniques for deckle as you would any brisket or pot roast — plenty of liquid, onions and herbs, tightly covered, at a low temperature. Cook until a fork can be easily inserted into the meat and pulled gently from side to side. Let the roast cool in its juices, refrigerate overnight, then slice it cold. Or cook it a little longer and the meat will pull apart completely, giving you long strands that can be piled on a bun or taco. Either way, when braising in liquid at a low temperature, the strong connective tissues are able to break down into silky collagen, which yields lean, tender, flavorful meat that your family will love.
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SAVORY DECKLE WITH INSTANT GRAVY
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BUTCHER'S CUT
Savory Deckle with Instant Gravy
Corned Beef Deckle
Serves: 6-8
Serves: 6-8
This is the perfect roast to serve with mashed potatoes with its delicious, rich meat gravy. The meat freezes wonderfully too.
Corned beef refers to a curing method for large cuts of beef, traditionally done using brisket. Butchers everywhere are utilizing this method for various cuts from top of the rib to tongue.
1 ¼ 1 1 3 1 2 2 1 2 2
(4-pound) deckle roast cup canola oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper large onions, sliced tablespoon tomato paste tablespoons flour tablespoons onion soup mix cup wine cups chicken stock or water bay leaves
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(4-pound) corned beef deckle cup chili sauce cup apricot jam tablespoons white wine vinegar tablespoons spicy brown mustard tablespoons brown sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Season meat with salt and pepper, then sear for 4 minutes per side, until a golden crust forms. Transfer to a 9x13-inch baking dish.
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Remove corned beef from packaging and rinse off in cold water.
2. Add onions to the pan, reduce heat to medium and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and sauté for another 4 minutes. Add flour and onion soup mix and stir until flour is incorporated.
2. Add corned beef, then lower to a simmer and cook, covered, for 3 hours. Drain and let cool, then slice thinly against the grain.
3. Add wine to deglaze the pan, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add chicken stock and bay leaves and bring to a boil; cook for 5 minutes. Pour over roast, cover tightly and cook in the oven for 3 hours. Let cool, then slice thinly against the grain. Reheat to serve.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over corned beef. Cover tightly and cook for 30 minutes. Serve as is or broil for 3 minutes, until sauce thickens into a glaze.
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Asian Sticky Glazed Deckle
Serves: 6
2 1 1 ½
By: Shifra Klein
1
(2-inch) knob of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced cloves garlic, thinly sliced teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes cup beer cup thick sweet soy glaze (such as Kikkoman or Sushi Maven) cup apple sauce tablespoons ketchup tablespoons brown sugar orange, thinly sliced
utes per side, until a golden crust forms. Transfer to a 9x13-inch baking dish. 3. Add ginger, garlic and red pepper flakes
While developing this issue, I was introduced to deckle roast by Mendy Herz, the manager of Kol Save, one of our local kosher supermarkets. Mendy is a meat connoisseur and makes homemade sausages and cured meats on the side. He suggested I use deckle to achieve the ribs-like quality that I was going for, but at a much lower price point. The results were amazing and I knew we had to feature deckle for our Butcher’s Cut column.
½ 2 2 1
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut deckle into 4x2-inch pieces to mimic boneless spare ribs.
cook in the oven for 3 hours.
1 3
2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and sear meat for 4 min-
liquid to a saucepan and reduce until thick-
(4-pound) deckle roast tablespoons canola oil
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to the pan and sauté for 3 minutes. Add beer to deglaze the pan, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil, then add soy glaze, apple sauce, ketchup, brown sugar and orange slices. 4. Pour over the meat, cover tightly and
5. Optional: After meat is done, transfer ened, then glaze the meat. www.fleishigs.com
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CELEBRATE CHANUKAH 2020 WITH INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE. TAKE IT A STEP FURTHER AND CREATE AN INTERNATIONALLY-THEMED DINNER EACH NIGHT TO ADD SOMETHING EXTRA SPECIAL TO THIS ILLUMINATING TIME OF YEAR. DECEMBER 2020
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chicken The hottest is taking trend today d nuggets perfectly frie them in and dousing of sauces a selection om tangy that range fr icy and to sweet, sp between. everything in kah, whip This Chanu f chicken up a batch o ri e d o r n u g g e ts (f e got you baked — we’v her way) covered eit nugget bar and create a of with a variety fun dipping sauces.
More-Than-Basic Chicken Nuggets
chicken cubes, a few at a time, in the panko mixture, then arrange on a parchmentlined baking sheet. Cook at 375°F for 12-15 minutes.
Serves: 6
Marinating the chicken in this unique brine will enhance the flavor and texture of the chicken and is well worth the effort. Pro Tip: Use this method to make awesome fried chicken, just use chicken legs and thighs and fry a bit longer, until an internal temperature of 165°F is reached. 1 cup unsweetened soy or rice milk ½ cup pickle juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 egg 3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cubed Canola, grapeseed or peanut oil, for frying 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon celery salt 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1. Whisk milk, pickle juice, lemon juice and egg until combined. Add cubed chicken, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 hours to tenderize. 2. When ready to fry, add oil to a deep pot or Dutch oven and heat to 375°F. 3. Add flour, cornstarch and spices to a large Ziploc bag and mix. Transfer cubed chicken from the brine to the flour mixture. Close and shake until chicken is coated. 4. Fry chicken for approximately 5 minutes, until golden brown, then transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Serve with your choice of rub, dipping sauce or glaze. FO R BA K E D N U G G E TS : Replace the flour with panko breadcrumbs. Coat marinated
Judd's Lemon Pepper Rub This is a great spice mix to have on hand for anything, but it’s especially delicious when sprinkled over fresh nuggets, immediately after frying. N OT E : Grinding fresh peppercorns makes a huge difference in the flavor.
2½ 3 2 1 1 2
tablespoons whole black peppercorns tablespoons lemon zest tablespoons garlic powder tablespoon onion powder tablespoon kosher salt teaspoons dried basil
Judd's Alabama White Sauce and Glaze Toss freshly fried nuggets in this tangy, ranch-style dressing or use as a dipping sauce for any protein. It also works wonders when brushed on grilled chicken in the last 10 minutes of grilling. In other words, it’s addictive and super versatile!
2 2 ½ ¼ ¼
Yield: 1 heaping cup
These ingredients are all basic, but when combined together, they make a flavorpacked sauce. ½ ¼
cup mayonnaise cup barbecue sauce (such as Mendel’s or Sweet Baby Ray's) cup honey tablespoons yellow mustard tablespoon lemon juice
Combine all ingredients and whisk until smooth and creamy. Toss with freshly fried nuggets or use as a dipping sauce. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Judd's Memphis Hot Sando Sauce Yield: 1½ cups
Yield: 3 cups
2 ½ ¼ 2 2
Judd's Signature Sauce
¼ 2 1
Crush the black pepper in a pepper mill using a coarse setting. Combine with remaining ingredients. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 months.
Combine all ingredients and whisk until smooth and creamy. Toss with freshly fried nuggets or use as a dipping sauce. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
cups mayonnaise cup apple cider vinegar cup jarred horseradish tablespoons lemon juice teaspoons freshly ground black pepper teaspoons spicy brown mustard teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon cayenne pepper teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon paprika
This VERY HOT sauce is based on my famous Memphis Hot Sando, the first Tennessee hot-style chicken to be brought to kosher dining a few years back. 1 ¼ 1 1 1 1 2
cup vegetable oil cup cayenne pepper teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder tablespoon barbecue sauce tablespoon maple syrup tablespoons hot sauce
Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat until hot. Add remaining ingredients and whisk until smooth. Toss with freshly fried nuggets or use as a dipping sauce. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
S H O RTC U T Use store-bought nuggets and a combination of homemade and store-bought sauces to create a similar experience. You can also combine some store-bought sauces for a semi-homemade vibe:
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1 cup barbecue sauce + ¼ cup Sriracha ½ cup barbecue sauce + ½ cup honey mustard ½ cup barbecue sauce + ¼ cup amba ½ cup sweet chili sauce + 2 tablespoons teriyaki sauce + 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
PARTY ACTIVITY
Inspired by the popular “Hot Ones” show on YouTube, drizzle chicken in an array of hot sauces from mild to mega hot and see who can handle the heat.
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Yehuda (Judd) Joffre, originally from Memphis TN, is the founder of Judd's Memphis Kitchen. Judd began his culinary career as a boutique caterer and popup specialist in the NY/NJ area. Judd then opened a restaurant in Cedarhurst, NY, which has since closed, specializing in Southern comfort foods. Currently, Judd can be found hosting pop-ups and consulting with chefs and restaurants, such as Elite Cafe and Bravo Pizza in Queens, on new concepts and techniques. He has recently collaborated with The Rebbe’s Choice on their Southern BBQ Smoked Salmon, which can be purchased nationwide. Judd is also part of the @trippingkosher crew with CW Silverberg and Tzvika Tal. Together they travel the country to highlight kosher restaurants and more and provide insightful kosher media content. Judd lives in Crown Heights, Brooklyn with his wife and two children. He can be found on Instagram @juddsmemphis.
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Whole Fried Fish with Italian Salsa Verde Serves: 4
By: Shifra Klein
Cooking a fish whole leads to a beautiful presentation, but it is also super easy to prepare. Ask your fishmonger to butterfly the fish for you, which means that the bones and center are removed, but the rest of the fish remains whole and intact. If you do not like serving whole fish, you can use fillets instead.
½ ¼ ¼ 1 2
cup vegetable oil cup cornstarch cup rice flour teaspoon kosher salt whole red snappers or bronzinos, butterflied Salsa Verde, for serving (recipe follows)
1. Heat oil in a deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. 2. Combine cornstarch, rice flour and salt on a large plate. 3. Cut 3 diagonal ¼-inch slits into the skin of the fish on each side (skip this step if using fillets), then dredge fish in cornstarch mixture, dusting off any excess. 4. Fry for 6-8 minutes per side, until golden brown and fish flips easily. 5. Transfer to a cooling rack. Serve with salsa verde.
Salsa Verde Yield: 1½ cups
Blend 1 cup fresh parsley, ⅓ cup olive oil, ¼ cup drained capers, 6 anchovies, 2 garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 1-2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes and the zest and juice of 1 lemon. Season with kosher salt to taste.
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BY: NAOMI ELBERG PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER
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Beaver Tails are a famous Canadian dessert — sweet yeast dough that is shaped to resemble a beaver’s tail, fried and topped with a dusting of cinnamon sugar and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Over the years, the tails have gone from basic to gourmet, similar to sufganiyot. The dough is easy to make, either by hand or with a mixer, and contains simple ingredients. Unlike sufganiyot, there’s no “pocket” to fill — the fillings go on top instead, making it extra fun for the entire family. All you need to do is set out frostings and various toppings, give each toddler, kid or adult their own mini offset spatula and you’re good to go.
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No piping, stuffing or sticking. Beaver Tails Yield: 2 dozen
• You can use half whole wheat flour, if desired. Since whole wheat flour absorbs water at a slower rate than white flour, the dough may feel stickier to the touch, but that will subside as it rises.
2. Once proofed, add to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add remaining ⅓ cup sugar, oil, eggs and vanilla and mix until combined. Add 3 cups flour and knead on medium speed, gradually adding the remaining flour until all has been incorporated. Turn off the mixer and let dough rest for 2 minutes. Resume kneading for about 3 minutes or 5 minutes if kneading by hand. The dough may be sticky, but try not to add more flour; the stickiness will subside as it rises.
• For extra flavor, feel free to use vanilla-flavored non-dairy milk, but make sure it’s unsweetened.
3. Transfer dough to a greased bowl and cover with a clean dish towel. Let rise until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.
• The dough can be made entirely by hand, no mixer necessary.
4. Lightly deflate dough and form golf ballsized pieces (roughly 2-3 ounces each). On a floured surface, use a rolling pin to roll out each ball of dough into a thin oval shape, about 2x4-inches long. Place on a lightly floured baking sheet and cover with a towel while you make the rest of the beaver tails.
The best part about this dough is how versatile it is. Even though it is slightly sweet, it can still be used for savory toppings (see ideas below). N OT E S :
• I prefer pink Himalayan sea salt in yeast dough recipes, but kosher salt or regular sea salt will do. 1 cup non-dairy milk 4½ teaspoons active dry yeast ⅓ cup + 1 teaspoon sugar, divided ⅓ cup oil 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 6 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1½ teaspoons kosher salt Oil, for frying
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1. Combine non-dairy milk, ½ cup water, yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar and set aside until slightly foamy, about 5 minutes.
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5. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Heat 4 inches of oil in a heavybottomed pot or Dutch oven to 375°F. Gently stretch beaver tail to flatten and place in oil. Fry, turning once, until golden brown, about 30 seconds to 1 minute per side. Transfer to the prepared cooling rack to drain.
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Topping Ideas
Cinnamon Sugar + Squeeze of Lemon Lotus Butter + Crushed Lotus Cookies Hazelnut Butter + Strawberries + Bananas Marshmallow Cream + Crushed Oreo Cookies Sliced Chicken Nuggets + Sweet Chili Sauce + Garlic Mayo + Chopped Chives Hummus + Flaked Tuna + Mina Harissa + Olives + Parsley Crispy Beef Fry + Fig Preserves
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Better be a tail to beavers than a head to squirrels.
- Gordon Ramsay (maybe).
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Pakora: Fritters that Pack a Punch BY: N AO M I ROSS A COOL, RAINY DAY MIGHT send you looking for a cup of warm hot cocoa in North America. But in India, some hot pakoras and a steaming chai tea would fit the bill. Popular throughout the Indian subcontinent and well into Pakistan, these savory batter-fried fritters are a beloved street food as well a welcome appetizer in restaurants. Chickpea flour and fragrant spices are the basis for a flavorful batter that yields a perfectly crispy crust — think tempura, but sturdier and less prone to the “soggies.” Virtually any vegetables can be used, but the ingredients and traditions do vary depending on the region. In Northern India, the vegetables are dredged in this thick batter and deep fried. South Indian regions commonly use julienned veggies with fresh herbs and chilis; these are tossed with the dry ingredients, only to be held together loosely with a few drops of water before being fried (think an Indian latke!). Across the subcontinent, pakoras go by many names — pikora, pakoda, pakodi, fakkura, bhajiya, bhajji, bhaji or ponako. No matter what they’re called, they’re always served with a classic green herb chutney brimming with cilantro and mint or a sweet and sour tamarind chutney to temper the satisfyingly spicy kick. I call ‘em addictively delicious. 46
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Pakoras
Tamarind Chutney
Serves: 4
Yield: 1½ cups
I recommend par-boiling firm vegetables like cauliflower and potatoes prior to frying in order to ensure they are cooked through and tender once fried.
Serve the chutney as a sweet and sour accompaniment to the pakora.
N OT E : Red Kashmiri chili powder is brighter in color and spicier than cayenne or American chili powder spice blends. It can be found in Indian markets. You can use hot paprika in place of Indian chili powder.
1 2 ¼ 1½ ½-1 ¾ 1 2
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cup fine chickpea flour tablespoons sweet rice flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon Indian red chili powder teaspoon Ajwain (carom) seeds or cumin seeds Canola or peanut oil, for frying head cauliflower, cut into florets, parboiled for 4-5 minutes Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds, parboiled for 2-3 minutes Japanese eggplant, sliced into ¼-inch rounds Tamarind Chutney, for serving (recipe follows)
1. Add chickpea flour, rice flour, baking soda and spices to a bowl. Whisk in about ⅔ cup water until a thick batter forms. Set aside.
N OT E : Adjust consistency of the sweet chutney to your liking by altering the amount of water. Adjust the amount of sugar to taste depending upon the sourness of the tamarind paste.
2 ½ ½ ¼ ¾ ½ 1
teaspoons oil teaspoon cumin seeds teaspoon ground ginger (saunth) teaspoon Indian red chili powder cup tamarind paste cup light brown sugar teaspoon kosher salt
1. Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add cumin seeds and let them crackle, then add ginger and chili powder. Add tamarind paste, 1 cup water, brown sugar and salt. 2. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, for 6-8 minutes, until mixture thickens slightly. It will thicken more as it cools. 3. Once cooled, refrigerate chutney in an airtight jar or container for up to 6-8 weeks.
2. Heat 3 inches of canola or peanut oil to a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Oil should reach about 350-365°F. 3. Dredge each vegetable piece in batter and allow excess to drip off. Working in small batches, carefully drop vegetables into the hot oil and fry for about 3-4 minutes (depending on size) or until golden brown. 4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a cooling rack set over a baking sheet to drain. Repeat with remaining vegetables and batter. Serve warm with chutney.
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Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor, food writer and the Culinary Director of Apron Masters Kitchen in Woodmere, NY. She teaches classes throughout the tri-state area and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. Follow her on Instagram @naomirosscooks or visit her website koshercookingconcepts.com.
IT’S SAFE TO SAY THAT AFTER DAY TWO, EVERYONE IS PRETTY MUCH OVER THE STANDARD JELLY OR CUSTARD DONUT. MIX IT UP A LITTLE AND SERVE SOMETHING FRESH, SOMETHING NEW, SOMETHING FRIED. BY: S H I F R A K L E I N
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It’s all comin' up gimmel. What do you do when you want to fulfill the tradition of eating fried foods on Chanukah, but you’re simply not in the mood to grate potatoes for latkes or channel a pastry chef and whip up a batch of sufganiyot? The following deli-inspired fried treats take minutes to prepare and bring something new to the Chanukah food scene.
Pastrami Spring Rolls Serves: 12
Imagine the flavors of a classic hot pastrami sandwich wrapped up in a spring roll. You can easily bake them instead of frying or use egg roll wrappers, if you prefer. Keep in mind that egg roll wrappers are a bit thicker and need a bit more cooking time. 1 2
1
¼
(8-ounce) container deli coleslaw (6-ounce) packages sliced pastrami, finely chopped (11-ounce) package spring roll wrappers cup deli mustard, plus more for serving Oil, for frying
⅓
Oil, for frying (9-inch) round or square potato kugel cup flour Chrayonnaise, for serving
1. Heat 3 inches of oil in a deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. 2. Cut potato kugel into 2-inch squares and dust with flour. Fry for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown. Serve warm with chrayonnaise.
Fried Matzah Balls Serves: 8
Matzah balls are the quintessential addition
1. Drain excess dressing from coleslaw. Combine coleslaw with pastrami.
to chicken soup, but frying takes them to
2. Lay spring roll wrapper on a work surface in a diamond shape. Place 2 tablespoons of pastrami-cabbage mixture at the bottom of the spring roll wrapper and drizzle a bit of mustard on top.
welcome crispy addition to any soup.
3. Fold the bottom corner over the filling. Brush exposed edges with water and bring the right and left corners into the center of the roll. Finish rolling to seal tightly. Repeat with remaining spring roll wrappers.
2 eggs 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 packet matzah ball mix ⅓ cup chopped chives or parsley Oil, for frying
4. Heat 3 inches of oil in a deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. Fry spring rolls for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper towels and serve warm with deli or honey mustard. TO BA K E : Preheat oven to 400°F. Brush oil over spring rolls and cook for 10-15 minutes, flipping halfway through, until golden brown.
Potato Kugel Bites Serves: 8
These kugel bites are the perfect alternative to making latkes.
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a whole new level. The added texture is a Note: The matzah ball batter can be made a day in advance and kept refrigerated until ready to fry.
1. Whisk eggs and oil until smooth, then add matzah ball mix and herbs and stir until incorporated. Refrigerate batter for at least 20 minutes to set. 2. Heat 3 inches of oil in a deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. 3. Form batter into small balls and fry for 5 minutes, until golden brown. Serve hot.
Fried Pickles Follow Judd’s technique for fried chicken nuggets (page 34) and replace chicken with pickles. Fry until just golden brown.
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LUCITE DRIEDLE AND CHANUKAH NAPKINS: @CAZENOVEJUDAICA
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BY SHIFRA KLEIN
There's nothing more party-friendly than a huge plate of fresh tortilla chips and guacamole. I’ve always craved a creamy cheese dip to go alongside this dynamic duo, so I set out to create a non-dairy version that would delight even skeptics! Cashews, when blended with a few other ingredients, yield the creamiest, richest cheeseless cheese sauce you’ll ever try.
Homemade Corn Tortilla Chips
Cashew "Queso" Dip
Serves: 8
Note: You will need a high-powered blender (like a Vitamix) to get the best results. We tested the recipe using a food processor and it did not achieve the ideal creamy consistency.
Homemade tortilla chips are simpler to make than you might think and the results are far superior to bagged chips. 16 1
Oil, for frying corn tortillas teaspoon kosher salt Pinch of cayenne pepper, optional
1. Heat 2 inches of oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. 2. Slice tortillas into 6 triangles (pile up and cut to save time). Working in batches, fry until golden, about 3 minutes. 3. Transfer to a paper towellined plate using a slotted spoon. Immediately season with salt and cayenne or your favorite seasoning blend.
Yield: 2½ cups
1¼ cups raw unsalted cashews 1 cup hot water 1 clove garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast 2 teaspoons tomato paste 1-2 teaspoons Sriracha 1 teaspoon chili powder ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon cumin Add all ingredients to a high-powered blender and blend until creamy. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days.
Chunky Guacamole Yield: 1½ cups
Mash 1 ripe avocado and add ½ cup sliced cherry tomatoes, the juice of 1 lime, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes.
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GROWING UP AS A JUBAN (aka Jewish Cuban) in Miami, most of our family gatherings involved countless cousins squeezed around a small dining room table eating the classic aroz con pollo y plátanos. We’d revisit treasured family stories from Havana — summers spent on the tropical beaches of Varadero sipping coco frio (coconut water out of a just-picked coconut with a straw) and eating conqletin (mini meatloaf ), my grandmother Sarita’s trademark, a fusion of her European childhood and her new life in Cuba. My parents were the first and only generation of Jews born in Cuba, but so much of who they are is embedded within the happiness of the childhood that they experienced there. They always talk about it as a paradise lost, only 90 miles from Miami, a capsule in time they will always cherish. My brothers and I can recreate their memories through the narratives they have shared and the flavors they have enriched our palates with.
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CHANUKAH FEAST
Sofrito
¼
Yield: 4 cups
3 4 1 1 1 ½
Sofrito is the humble beginning to most dishes. Many cultures have their own version of sofrito, such as the French mirepoix and Italian battuto, infusing character into dishes. Whereas most people assume that all Latin fare is spicy, Cuban food is actually fairly mild in comparison.
2 4 2 6 2
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tablespoons olive oil medium onions, diced green bell peppers, diced cloves garlic, minced heaping tablespoons tomato paste teaspoon cumin teaspoon dried oregano bay leaves
1. Heat oil in a sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions, peppers and garlic and sauté for 10-15 minutes, until translucent. 2. Add remaining ingredients and stir well to incorporate. Cook for an additional 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Mojo Yield: 1½ cups
Cuban mojo is a delicious combination of citrus juice, oil, herbs and spices and can be used as a condiment or marinade for just about anything. ½ ½
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cup olive oil cup loosely packed cilantro
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cup lime juice (from about 2 limes) tablespoons orange juice cloves garlic teaspoon cumin teaspoon oregano teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend for 20-30 seconds until well combined. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Arroz con Pollo Serves: 8
This one pot chicken and rice recipe is full of delicious flavor. 1½
pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon cumin 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups sofrito (recipe above) 3½ cups short grain rice (such as Valencia or Arborio) 2 cups light beer 2½ cups apple juice 3½ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 loosely packed teaspoons saffron threads 3½ cups boiling water 4-5 tablespoons lime juice (from about 2-3 limes) ½-¾ cup pimento-stuffed olives ½ cup chopped cilantro ¾ cup frozen peas
1. Rub chicken with cumin. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sear chicken for 1-2 minutes per side. This is just to create a golden crust, not to cook the chicken through. Transfer to a plate. 2. Lower heat to medium and add sofrito and rice; stir to combine. Add beer and stir continuously for 2-3 minutes, then add apple juice and stir for another 2-3 minutes. 3. Pour boiling water into a measuring cup, then add salt, pepper and saffron. Stir, then add to the pot, followed by lime juice and olives. Stir to combine. 4. Return chicken to the pot and top with cilantro. Reduce heat to low, cover tightly and cook for 40 minutes. Add peas and cook for another 5 minutes.
Avocado Salsa Combine 2 diced avocados, 1 diced mango, 6 diced hearts of palm, 2 tablespoons minced red onion, ¼ cup Mojo (recipe above), 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro.
Tomato Black Bean Salad Combine 1 (15-ounce) can drained and rinsed black beans, 1½ cups halved cherry tomatoes, 3 tablespoons minced red onion, ¼ cup chopped cilantro, 2 tablespoons minced jalapeño (optional), 5 tablespoons Mojo (recipe above), 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
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The two most important items in Cuban cooking are sofrito and mojo. Once you master these two building block staples, you can make almost anything. DECEMBER 2020
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Slow Cooker Ropa Vieja Serves: 4
Ropa Vieja is known as Cuba’s national dish, brought to Cuba by Spanish settlers. Translated to mean “old clothes,” the name comes from an old legend about a poor man who shredded his own clothes and cooked it. While it stewed, he prayed and the clothes wondrously turned into a meat stew! This tale definitely has a miraculous ending and so does this simply delicious dish. Note: You can stretch this dish to serve 8 as an appetizer.
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teaspoons cumin teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper pounds second cut brisket or deckle tablespoons olive oil cups sofrito (recipe above) cup light beer
1. Combine cumin, salt and pepper in a small bowl and rub all over meat.
CUSTOM WOODEN BOARD: @IMPRESSIONJUDAICA
2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and sear meat until a crust forms, about 3-4 minutes per side. 3. Transfer to a slow cooker, then top with sofrito and beer. Cover and cook on low for 6-8 hours or high for 4 hours. Shred with two forks and serve warm. Serve with mojo and tostones.
Tostones The first time I cooked with Shifra was on Chanukah in my home a few years ago. We went live on Facebook to make “Cuban latkes” with plantains. I thought it was most appropriate to feature them in this Cuban-inspired Chanukah celebration. Tostones, aka twice fried plantains, produce a savory, almost potato-like texture. And much like a fried potato, they are irresistible. Traditionally, a wooden tostonera (plantain smasher) is used to smash each round into a flat disk. You can also place rounds between two pieces of parchment paper and smash down with a flat-bottomed glass. Don't press down too hard or they will fall apart. 62
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green plantains Olive oil, for frying Flaky salt Lime wedges Avocado Salsa (page 58) Tomato Black Bean Salad (page 58)
1. Slice the ends off the plantains, then score the peel lengthwise from top to bottom on both sides, making sure not to cut through the flesh. Peel away the skin, then slice plantains into 1-inch rounds. 2. Heat ½ inch oil in a Dutch oven or large sauté pan over medium heat. Add plantains in a single layer and fry for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and raise heat to medium-high. 3. Using a tostonera or a flat-bottomed glass, lightly smash each plantain round. 4. Add flattened plantains back into the oil and fry again for 1-2 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and immediately sprinkle with salt. Serve with lime wedges, Avocado Salsa and Tomato Black Bean Salad. N OT E : You can prepare the tostones in advance. Fry once and smash, then fry the second time right before serving.
PLANTAINS vs BANANAS Although they might look similar, plantains and bananas are not the same. Plantains have a much higher starch content and are not edible raw. They become sweeter as they ripen and range in color from green (least ripe), which are used for tostones, to yellow and black (most ripe), which are used to make sweet maduros.
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Bunuelos with Guava Glaze In order to perfect this recipe, I enlisted the help of my daughter Sarale (my in-house baker) for her exacting mathematical skills. The end result was worth all the effort! The dough has a cake-like consistency with a crisp exterior. The cinnamon sugar and guava glaze are the perfect finishing touches for this addictive Cuban donut. 1 cup + 6 tablespoons sugar, divided 2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon cinnamon, divided 4 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 3 eggs 3 tablespoons rum or pineapple juice 2 teaspoons lime zest 1½ cups coconut milk Coconut oil, for frying Guava Glaze, for serving (recipe follows) 1. Combine 6 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons cinnamon and set aside. 2. Add flour, remaining 1 cup sugar, baking powder, remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and salt to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low until combined. 3. Add eggs, rum and lime zest and knead at medium-low speed while slowly adding coconut milk. 4. Cover and let dough rest for 30 minutes, preferably in a warm spot away from any drafts. 5. Heat 3 inches of coconut oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. 6. Using a small 1-inch triggered ice cream scoop, scoop a small mound of dough and turn over onto the pot. When the dough starts to release, use the trigger to release the dough into the hot oil. When the dough starts turning a dark golden color, flip using a slotted spoon, until crisp on all sides. 7. Transfer bunuelos directly into the cinnamon sugar and toss. Serve with Guava Glaze.
Guava Glaze Guava paste can be found in almost any large national supermarket in the ethnic aisle. Look for guava paste with no added sugar, as guava is already pretty sweet. 14 ¼
ounces guava paste Juice of 3 limes (about 6 tablespoons) cup rum or pineapple juice
1. Add all ingredients to a heatproof bowl and microwave in 30-second increments, stirring in between, until completely melted. Alternatively, add all ingredients to a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water and stir until melted. 2. Drizzle over donuts or serve alongside. For the adventurous baker, pipe into the center of each donut hole for a decadent filling.
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Pineapple Mojitos Serves: 4
Since Cuba is known for its sugarcane and rum, it's no surprise that the mojito was born there. ½ ¼
cup pineapple juice cup fresh lime juice (from about 2 limes) ¼ cup white rum 1 0-12 mint leaves, plus more for garnish 1½ tablespoons cane sugar 2 cups seltzer Lime wedges and sliced pineapple, for garnish 1. Blend pineapple juice, lime juice, rum, mint and sugar in a food processor or blender for 30-40 seconds, until mint is chopped finely and mixture is foamy. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. 2. When ready to serve, fill glasses halfway with ice, then pour mojito mixture halfway and top with seltzer. Garnish with lime wedges, mint leaves and sliced pineapple.
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CafĂŠ Cubano The Cubans have been whipping their coffee way before it was a trend; no meal is complete without a cafecito. These coffee shots are intensely sweet and enjoyed in small shot glasses. Less is more with this drink. Âź 1
cup sugar cup hot brewed espresso, divided
Add sugar and 1 tablespoon brewed espresso to a bowl. Whisk vigorously for 1 minute until sugar dissolves. Pour in the remaining coffee; the foam will rise to the top. Immediately pour into small shot glasses or espresso cups.
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Pictured here are Reena's relatives in Cuba, 1934. The man in the center is her great grandfather, Reuben Eisen, and the baby is her father, Joseph Perelis.
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shut the borders of the United States to immigration and Jews fleeing the chaos, poverty and anti-semitism following World War I were forced to find other safe havens. This led Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe and Sephardic Jews from the former Ottoman Empire to places like Cuba and other Latin American countries. For many Jews, Cuba, only 90 miles from Miami, was an appealing option and potential stepping stone for future passage to America. The community quickly grew to almost 15,000 in Havana alone. However, “Hotel Cuba,” as it was phrased, lasted only 40 years, until Castro came to power and 95% of the Jews left. Most went to Miami, where I grew up, and a percentage went to Israel. Havana was a cosmopolitan city in the 1900s, welcoming a mix of races, languages and nationalities. This allowed the Jews to assert their own identity without discrimination. Cuban Jews enjoyed religious freedom and a beautiful way of life centered around family and community. They built a Jewish community center — the Patronato — along with thriving schools, where children studied in Spanish, Yiddish and Hebrew. There was a fervent love for Israel as reflected in the wide range of Zionist groups like the Jewish National Fund and Hashomer Hatzair. THE IMMIGRATION ACT OF 1924
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Newsletters from the Jewish Community Center (aka Patronato) in Havana, where Reena's parents were married weeks before leaving Cuba for Miami.
WHEN MY PATERNAL great grandfather, Reuben, arrived in 1924, he became a founding member and Rabbi of Adat Israel, the first Ashkenazi shul, which is still operational today in Old Havana. He was also the butcher, providing kosher meat and chicken for the community. While the meat was sold in a butcher shop, the chickens were sold separately in pollerías (chicken houses). My mother always recounts how she would leave the house whenever my grandmother would kasher the chickens; it was a full day process. They would first take the chickens to Reuben der Schochet (the butcher) and then bring them home to complete the salting and cleaning process. My grandmother’s gentile housekeeper became so fluent in the laws of kosher that when she got married, she insisted on buying two separate sets of dishes for milk and meat. There was also a kosher bakery, a few kosher restaurants and a caterer. The Jews quickly found a love for Cuban cuisine, fusing their familiar flavors with Latin flare in dishes like arroz con pollo and ropa vieja, adapting the recipes to be in line with kosher standards. My mother is famous for her flan recipe, utilizing coconut milk instead of heavy cream, which is the perfect non-dairy option to serve after a meat meal. My parent’s fondest memories are of their midday siestas, where children would come home for lunch, stores would close and the country would take two hours off in the middle of the day to enjoy lunch with family. They understood the value of hard work, but also knew how to pause, be present and cherish each day. I carry these values from my ancestry with me always. It deeply influences how I view my food and cooking — not just as fuel, but as a means of connecting people and cultures through the universal language of food, one bite at a time.
6th grade class picture, 1955 (Reena's mother, Dorita Perelis [née Rosen], is seated second from left in the second row from the bottom).
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Chanukah is all about fried food. Many families gather on Saturday night after Shabbos for a fun-filled Chanukah party, so I figured Shabbos Chanukah would be a perfect time to enjoy a lighter menu that — trust me — will not feel healthy, if you know what I mean. Besides focusing on light, good-for-you food, this menu is super simple to execute and is surprisingly stunning at the same time.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Spice-Rubbed Salmon Serves: 6
When roasting a whole side of salmon, I prefer baby salmon. It is thinner and therefore easier to cook evenly. I like to keep the skin on as it adds moisture and makes transferring from the pan to a platter easier.
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2 1
(3-pound) side of baby salmon, skin on tablespoons Dijon mustard tablespoon agave or honey Barbecue spice rub
Preheat oven to 425°F. Combine mustard and agave and brush over salmon. Sprinkle with spice rub. Roast for 25 minutes.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Chimichurri London Broil Serves: 6
I'm a huge fan of meat dishes that can be served at room temperature for Shabbos lunch as an alternative to cholent. It is crucial to bring London broil to room temperature before searing to ensure that it cooks evenly. ¼ 1 2 1 2
cup canola oil (2-pound) London broil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper red onions, cut into wedges Chimichurri, for serving (recipe follows)
1. Heat oil in a large cast iron pan or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Season meat with salt and pepper and sear for 8 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and let cool for 10-15 minutes before slicing against the grain. 2. Increase heat to high and add red onion wedges. Sauté until onions are just cooked through, about 4 minutes. Let cool. 3. When ready to serve, arrange onions on a platter and top with sliced meat. Drizzle chimichurri over meat and onions.
Chimichurri Yield: 1½ cups
Combine 1 cup chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, ¼ cup finely diced red onion, juice and zest of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil and ½ teaspoon kosher salt.
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Roasted Eggplant Salad Serves: 6
This is a recipe that my husband Shlomo has perfected. He made it a few times before Sukkos and it was gone within two days. It’s a real crowd pleaser and a lighter option than the classic Shabbos staple babaganoush. 1 1 1 ½ 2 1
whole eggplant tomato, diced small red onion, diced Juice of 2 lemons cup chopped parsley tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt
1. Preheat oven to broil. Place eggplant on a baking sheet and broil for 6 minutes per side. 2. Reduce temperature to 400°F. Cover eggplant with foil and cook for another 15 minutes, until fully cooked and very tender. Allow eggplant to cool, then peel. 3. Place eggplant in a bowl with remaining ingredients. Stir to combine. Serve cold or at room temperature.
Beet Lentil Salad Serves: 6
This salad is a meal in a bowl. Beyond Shabbos, you can top it with feta cheese for a meatless weeknight dinner. For a vegan option, we enjoyed Violife vegan feta cheese. N OT E : I love using pre-cooked packaged
beets (such as Gefen or Love Beets).
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bulb fennel (reserve fronds for garnish), thinly sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided tablespoons white balsamic vinegar Zest and juice of 1 lemon tablespoon honey tablespoon Dijon mustard teaspoon freshly ground
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black pepper cups baby arugula cups cooked lentils medium beets, cooked and diced Fresh mint, for garnish, optional
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss fennel with 1 tablespoon olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt. Arrange on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast for 25 minutes, until golden. Set aside to cool. 2. Whisk remaining ¼ cup olive oil, balsamic vinegar, lemon juice and zest, honey, mustard, pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. 3. Arrange arugula on a platter and top with lentils, beets, roasted fennel, fennel fronds and fresh mint. Drizzle dressing over salad.
Pineapple Salad Serves: 6
There’s no better way to end a light meal than with fresh fruit. The sweetness of the agave balances the acidic fruit perfectly.
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pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into semicircles grapefruit, peeled and segmented (reserve juice) pomelo or orange, peeled and segmented tablespoons agave or sugar tablespoons reserved grapefruit juice Fresh mint, for garnish
1. Arrange pineapple on a platter and top with citrus segments. 2. Combine agave nectar and grapefruit juice, then pour over fruit. 3. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1-12 hours before serving. When ready to serve, garnish with fresh mint.
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Make Vegetables the Star minimalistic, clean menu, great quality ingredients make all the difference. In an era where we can sometimes get carried away making too much food, simplifying our menus can seem daunting. Will there be enough? Will the food be exciting and satisfying? We have found that investing in better WHEN PLANNING A
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quality produce can make all the difference. This vegetable platter does highlight more expensive vegetables, but it serves as our entire second course side dish. The platter is composed of sweet rainbow carrots for a welcome crunch; edible carrot tops, rinsed well and soaked in ice water, for added color and nutrition;
bitter radicchio, which can easily be replaced with romaine leaves or endive; and sliced radishes, elevated with some flaky salt and extra-virgin olive oil for more flavor. Feel free to make it your own celebration of winter produce based on whatever you have on hand.
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TUCKED INSIDE A brightly lit, bustling shopping center in the heart of Monsey, NY, lies a hidden gem — an upscale, modern restaurant, where the cozy, dimlylit interior transports you to another world entirely. Founded in 2016, Fireside Kosher sought to bring a new experience to a community filled with heimish, oldschool eateries, but it was the introduction of their signature meat pizzas that really put them on the map. “You’ll find a version of a meat flatbread on the menu at every restaurant now,” says the owner of Fireside, “but at the time it was an entirely new concept and people were blown away.” The first-ofits-kind offering was the brainchild of former chef Alexander Remer, who developed the original recipe, including all handmade components — from the unique dough to every topping and aioli. The pizza was launched at the 2016 Kosher Food & Wine Event (KFWE) to rave reviews, landing on “Best Of ” lists and garnering incredible interest in the new restaurant. After the passing of the torch to current chef Michel Abramson, the menu at Fireside continued to evolve. The original
meat pizza, with roasted mushrooms and onions, ground beef, smoked beef bits and a maple aioli is still on the menu, alongside new options, like the vegan “Vegetable Lover’s Pizza” loaded with creamed spinach and balsamic roasted tomatoes. “We’ve added new options with new toppings to the menu, but the dough and the base have always remained the same,” the owner adds. With a hearty deep dish crust and flavorful fillings, the pizza can serve as a great main dish, especially for those dining on a budget. The generous portion size makes it the perfect shareable option to order with a group for a fun and filling entrée without breaking the bank. Aside from the plethora of kosher restaurants taking inspiration from Fireside’s hit pizzas, many home cooks have come up with their own versions as well, for easy, crowd-pleasing party favorites. A little goes a long way here — all you need to make your own is a pre-made dough or crust and a relatively small amount of protein, from budgetfriendly options like deli meat, pulled chicken or ground beef to more indulgent options like short rib or beef cheek, plus some fun toppings or sauces to finish it off.
BY: Chana Zelda Weiss PHOTOGRAPHY BY:SCHNEUR MENAKER
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
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AS THE WORLDWIDE LOCKDOWNS (AND RESTAURANT SHUTDOWNS) BEGAN, PEOPLE EVERYWHERE WERE EAGER FOR A RETURN TO NORMALCY, WHEN WE COULD FREELY GATHER IN RESTAURANTS FOR FUN EVENINGS OUT.
All da people, All around me Feelin Hot Hot Hot!
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UNFORTUNATELY, AS THE weeks turned to months, it became more and more apparent that there was no “after this is all over” on the horizon. Navigating this new reality means finding new and creative ways to gather and celebrate, whether that means over Zoom, outdoors or in socially-distanced settings. Although guests at the first Fleishigs restaurant-based live article dinner in more than half a year arrived masked, with friendly waves replacing the customary hugs, and seated themselves at small, distanced tables, the feelings of warmth and camaraderie were palpable. Many hadn’t eaten inside a restaurant for months. “In times like these, it’s nice to just get out and socialize a bit; to talk food with other foodies,” commented the exuberant Malky Knopfler (@the_comic_cook). To say Malky missed dining out is an understatement: “Fireside is the reason I moved to Monsey!” The night began with a spread of unique Fireside appetizers (one per table of four instead of the usual
take-and-pass), including crispy fried veal sweetbreads with a mango purée, pan-seared duck fingers with an artful rose plum glaze and crispy pulled beef spring rolls. The next round of appetizers included Fireside’s signature steak salad (with seasonal greens, pepitas, smoked beef bits and a soy vinaigrette) and a massive beef board with candied beef bacon, hasselback kielbasa, seared duck breast, thinly shaved Denver steak and blistered tomatoes. Next up was the array of pizzas that Fireside is famous for, including the original and vegetarian versions, as well as a pulled pastrami and brisket pizza topped with crispy shallots and garlic aioli, ensconced in an incredible chewy crust. “This is what we came for,” said Fleishigs editor Elisheva Taitz, as she reached for a slice. Finally, although some guests said that they simply could not eat another bite, waiters served a round of perfectly cooked steaks, including a hanger steak special served with a tiny stuffed pumpkin, a 30-day aged crusted ribeye and a massive showstopping bone-in
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Tomahawk. “We can cook delicious food at home,” said Ahuva Gottdiener (@homegrownkosher), “but we still go to restaurants; not only for the tasty food, but also for the pageantry — we want to be entertained! Fireside checked all those boxes.” “It means so much to me to have a small moment of normalcy in these crazy times,” added Cami Bouskila (@themommydictionary). “When the restaurants take the proper precautions, it allows you to sit down for a meal with just a few friends or family and have a nice night out. It’s important to embrace those moments and support the establishments that help make that happen.” Though we may not know how or when we’ll get to the other side of the strange time we are in right now, at least in the meantime, we know that while we may be kept physically apart, we can still find ways to come together.
STEAK SALAD
Sarah Encaoua-Guigue @hassidic.hipster.girl Cami Bouskila @themommydictionary
SPRING ROLLS VEAL SWEETBREADS
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CHICKEN FINGERS WITH A FLIGHT OF SAUCES
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SEASONAL DONUTS WITH DESSERT SAUCES
MEAT PIZZA
PULLED BEEF NACHOS
WARM PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ WITH MARSHMALLOW CREAM
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Meat Pizza Serves: 8
By: Shifra Klein
This is our version of the amazing meat pizza we all enjoyed at Fireside.
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(4-ounce) package beef fry, roughly chopped pound ground beef clove garlic, minced teaspoon freshly ground black pepper pound store bought pizza dough tablespoon oil cups marinara sauce cup caramelized onions (recipe follows) cup garlic mayonnaise (recipe follows)
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1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Add beef fry to a cold sauté pan, then heat to mediumhigh. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until crisp. Transfer to a plate.
Caramelized Onions
2. Add ground beef to the pan with garlic and pepper. Cook meat until browned, about 10 minutes.
ions and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Sauté until
3. Brush a 10-inch round pan with oil. Roll pizza dough until thin and place in pan, pushing dough up the sides over the edge of the pan. Spread marinara sauce over the dough, then top with the cooked ground beef and crisped beef fry.
additional 25-35 minutes, stirring occasion-
4. Top with caramelized onions and drizzle with garlic mayonnaise. Cook until
naise, 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar,
the dough is crisp, about 18 minutes.
honey.
Heat ¼ cup oil to a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add 2 thinly sliced Spanish ononions start to develop some color, about 10 minutes. Lower heat and cook for an ally, until onions are tender.
Garlic Mayonnaise Blend 5 cloves garlic with ½ cup mayon½ teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon
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Esty Wolbe @cookingwithtantrums Malkie Knopfler @the_comic_cook Ahuva Gottdiener @homegrownkosher
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
HANGER STEAK SPECIAL seared hanger steak, stuffed mini pumpkin, sautĂŠed greens and a maple-cinnamon glaze
Chana Zelda Weiss is a fulltime mom of 3, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook.
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C LO C K W I S E F RO M TO P L E F T:
JACK SHELBY @SHELBYSGOTTAEAT BUFFALO CHICKEN POPPERS 72-OZ BONE-IN COWBOY STEAK PAN SEARED DUCK TENDERS
VISITING VAIL , COLORADO
this past summer with the kosher travel group KMR was one of the most surprising trips I’ve taken yet. We stayed at the Grand Hyatt in Vail and were astounded by the sheer beauty surrounding us. Vail (and Colorado as a whole) is an ideal destination for those who love nature, outdoor sports and activities. It is also packed with a rich history dating back to the mid 1800s, when Colorado became part of the Gold Rush that expanded Western United States. As such, you will be met with a lot of gold mines and themed activities.
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Denver, Colorado WHERE TO EAT
to T travel to Vail and other surrounding mountains HE QUICKEST WAY
is via Denver. From New York, for example, there are no direct flights to Vail (unless you charter a private plane) and it becomes quite expensive and time consuming to purchase a stopover ticket. Therefore, we recommend flying into Denver, renting a car and driving to your final destination. Denver itself offers what a typical, vibrant American city has — parks, shops, museums and markets abound. For the kosher traveler, it is a great place to stock up on kosher products on the way to the mountains of Vail, Boulder or Aspen.
Rosenberg’s Bagels & Delicatessen
This is a classic bagel shop that makes New York-style bagels and homemade lox and smoked salmon. The fact that the lox is made inhouse makes a huge difference in taste and quality — have fun and try their different varieties. We met with culinary director Nick Severino, who took us on a tour of how the bagels are made. The most fascinating aspect of their process is that they have a specialized filtration system to achieve the same type of water that New York has, based on the well-known theory that the water in New York is what makes the bagels, pizza and bread so superior. This is Rosenberg’s not-so-secret secret. Another key aspect to their baking is the consideration of Denver’s high altitude, something that can change a recipe. If a recipe works in Miami, it won’t necessarily work well up in the mountains of Colorado. “We didn't reinvent the wheel, we just figured out best practices for baking at a high altitude,” Nick shared. He also discussed that quality control plays a huge role at Rosenberg’s and they are constantly churning out bagels and removing any that are not fresh. Keep in mind that the cream cheese is not chalav yisrael. For kashrut purposes and to keep the rest of their products fully pareve, they keep their cream cheese in a separate refrigerator.
East Side Kosher Deli
This is the place that makes kosher travel to Denver so convenient — it’s a fully functioning supermarket, butcher, deli and restaurant (read more on page 102). High Point Creamery
This is a popular ice cream chain known for its unique, artisanal flavors. Bear in mind that while it’s not chalav yisrael, there are many non-dairy (though made on dairy equipment) offerings. The Berkeley and Hilltop locations are kosher certified. Supermarkets & other kosher resources
Grapevine Wine & Liquors has a large variety of kosher wine options. Pete's Market is a supermarket chain with a lot of kosher options and King Soopers is a small market that also has kosher options. Kashrus is ever-evolving. Visit scrollk.org for up-to-date details on the kosher status of the locations listed.
Due to the pandemic, their hours can vary, so call in advance to find out when they are open.
Brooklyn Pizza
The pizza dough is crispy and thin and the options are endless. The menu also has a variety of pastas, salads, falafel and fries. We
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particularly loved the vegan meat options, the Park Slope pie and the Crown Heights pie (we’re biased!). Other standouts were the calzones (outrageously flavorful
and huge) and the zeppoles (Italian donuts served in a large paper bag hot out of the fryer, dusted with generous amounts of confectioners’ sugar).
We recommend calling in advance, especially if you are planning to take food to go. Order time averages 15-20 minutes, so keep that in mind.
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TRAVEL
TRAVELING IN THE TIMES OF COVID-19 With the everchanging guidelines we recommend visiting colorado.com/ whats-open-colorado before making any plans. When we were there, some unexpected places were closed due to COVID-19. Air travel was very calm, quiet and relaxing. JetBlue leaves the middle seats empty and we highly recommend flying with an airline that executes that policy. It reflects a care for the customer’s health and also makes for a more comfortable flying experience.
Plan well, and the only rocky thing you’ll experience is the mountains.
Come prepared with whatever you may need. We were handed out a snack package during the flight, but make sure to either bring what you need or buy food and drinks in the airport just in case. Bring comfortable masks. You are required to wear a mask for the entire flight and while walking around the airport.
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ROSENBERG'S MOTTO NICK SEVERINO Culinary director of Rosenberg's Kosher BROOKLYN PIZZA Park Slope pizza; cheese pizza with vegan pepperoni EAST SIDE KOSHER DELI Wine selection
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TRAVEL
The altitude isn’t the only thing that will take your breath away.
WHERE TO STAY We stayed in Downtown Denver for two nights, but after visiting the entire city, we would recommend staying in Cherry Creek. It is conveniently located, close to the airport and shopping and has many upscale, affordable hotel options. The Jacquard Hotel is a stunning boutique hotel in the heart of Cherry Creek. It offers clean, sleek rooms for an average of $300 per night, a rooftop pool and bar (kosher wine is available upon request). The Jacquard is part of Marriott, so you can use points for your stay.
what to do
Tour a brewery Colorado has become a hub for beer brewing facilities and many breweries offer tours and/or tastings. Cherry Creek Shopping District More than 500 department stores, boutiques, galleries, spas, hotels and one-of-a-kind shops make Cherry Creek the largest concentration of stores between St. Louis and San Francisco. Across 1st Avenue, Cherry Creek North boasts tree-lined streets with cafés and more shopping, amidst fountains and public art. We also enjoyed a brief coffee break at Aviano Coffee, which has excellent quality coffee in a beautiful setting.
Denver Broncos Stadium Visiting in the right season may allow you to catch a football game at this famous stadium. There are limited seats available for the current season, which ends in the middle of January. Tattered Cover Book Shop With four locations throughout Denver, this book shop is one of the most famous indie bookstores in the United States. A visit to one of the shops, in business since 1971, is a fun experience for book lovers and history buffs. Hot Air Balloon Ride There is no better way to experience Colorado’s breathtaking views than in a
hot air balloon ride. Though pricey ($225 per person), it is a once in a lifetime experience.
picnic and trails to walk and bike. This is great if you are looking to relax or entertain kids for a few hours.
Union Station A 100-year-old landmark in Downtown Denver, Union Station offers various shops and accomodations. You can catch a 40-minute train ride to the airport from Union Station as well.
Denver Zoo Modeled after a Kenyan nature preserve, the 80-acre Denver Zoo is home to more than 4,000 animals, including tigers, black rhinos, kangaroos and orangutans.
Denver Mint Though tours are currently closed to the public due to COVID-19, the Denver Mint is one of Colorado’s oldest institutions. Washington Park Known as the Central Park of Denver, this 165-acre park has two lakes, acres of land to
Denver Museum of Nature & Science The museum has many fascinating exhibits for the whole family as well as IMAX and Planetarium shows. Here you will find one full floor dedicated to the Gold Rush Era, transformed into a replica mineshaft. Due to COVID-19, online timed ticket reservations are currently required.
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A smile from the vail, Wish you were here.
SUSHI COUNTER AT EAST SIDE KOSHER DELI
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SHLOMO KLEIN GOING UP IN A GONDOLA WITH HIS BIKE, READY TO RIDE DOWN ONE OF VAIL'S FAMOUS MOUNTAINS.
Pie (and much more) in the sky.
I’d like to extend a personal thank you to Zeldy Engel, the Rebbetzin of Chabad of Cherry Creek, who spent the day taking us around Denver and giving us an inside look into all the kosher options in her community. It is always helpful to reach out to a resident or a Chabad house for information when planning a trip to a new city. Chabad of Cherry Creek also offers Shabbat-to-Go packages. www.jewishcherrycreek.com
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vail.com is an amazing
Vail, Colorado
resource, so check it out for updated information.
VAIL IS ONE of the most beautiful, pristine mountains we have ever seen. During the summer, the weather is perfect and the skies are clear, making the views completely stunning. Even though winter is a typical time for skiing and snowboarding, the quieter summer season is great for those sports as well.
Snow season starts at the end of September and ends in April.
COLORADO GOLD TRAIL
MOUNT EVANS SCENIC BYWAY
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WHERE TO STAY W H E R E TO E AT
THESE STOPS IF DRIVING FROM DENVER TO VAIL Mount Evans Scenic Byway Outside of Denver, this is an easy way to see mountains without the hike by driving miles through scenic mountain roads, reaching over 14,000 feet above sea level. The road, which is the tallest paved road in all of America, is only open at certain times of the year. Visit www.denver.org for more information and to find other hiking or driving trails that work for you. Visit a Casino Casinos began to open after gambling was legalized in the 1990s. Three towns known for their casinos are Black Hawk, Central City and Cripple Creek. Colorado Gold Trail Visitors can follow the Colorado Gold Trail — a scenic tour of gold rush towns and gold and silver mines that flourished in the late 1850s. Towns on the trail include Boulder, Black Hawk, Central City, Idaho Springs, Breckenridge, Fairplay, Alma, Como and Leadville. Visit colorado.com for more information.
Chabad of Vail is a great option for Shabbos meals and minyanim. They offer special menus for Shabbos and Yeshiva break. Visit jewishvail.com for more information.
what to do
CONSIDER
There are no kosher restaurants or stores in Vail, but you can visit any supermarket for kosher groceries. There are also local Starbucks shops for coffee and oatmeal.
Vail Village This quaint shopping area is a wonderful locale to walk around on a relaxed afternoon. Some of the shops include Fuzziwigs Candy Shop, a unique confections store that has some kosher options; Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, which also has some kosher chocolates (not chalav yisrael); Starbucks; ski equipment and gear shops and bike rental shops. Parking is available and free during the summer months. Seasonal Biking and Gondola Rides During spring through September you can take a gondola up and down the mountains to see the
House or apartment rental Prices will vary depending on the season and what type of property you are looking for. Rentals on Airbnb start at about $100 per night, depending on size and location.
Grand Hyatt Resort and Spa This is a stunning resort with beautiful views of the mountains. There are a few pools, hot tubs, a
stunning views. You can also take the gondola up the mountain and ride bikes down. There are various trails with different levels to choose from. Eagle’s Nest Snow Tubing A wonderful family-friendly way to enjoy the snowcapped mountains. Ski Biking This is for anyone who is at least on an intermediate skier level and is an awesome way to ski down a mountain. In place of skis, you use a bike equipped with skis instead of traditional wheels. It’s a real adventure.
spa and bar. The hotel offers bike rentals and can guide you on various biking or walking paths. We highly recommend upgrading to a room with a view of the creek. The property borders a river and walking path and the first floor rooms have an outdoor seating area with direct access to the trails. Prices vary per season, with summer rates averaging $200 per night, while winter rates go up to $500+ per night.
Rockies on a snowmobile. (Nova Guides comes highly recommended for their snowmobile tours and also offers other tours like ATV.) Skiing There are various mountains and skiing options. Check vail.com or get information from your hotel concierge. Fishing Try ice fishing in winter and fly fishing in the summer with Vail Valley Anglers. Dog Sledding Mountain Musher has the best dog sledding rides in Vail.
Snowmobile Tours Experience the top of the
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TRAVEL
in telecommunications, West Hempstead, NY native Shua Horowitz moved to Denver and bought East Side Kosher Deli in late 2014. As a self-taught cook with a tremendous passion for food, Shua brought fresh energy to this supermarket-delirestaurant with a new focus on customer service. After taking over, Shua launched a complete rebranding of the market. He introduced branded boxes, which have been used in New York since the early 2000s and have since become standard, but were unique in Denver at the time (so much so that a hotel once called the deli to ask if they wanted their boxes back!). This rebranding provided a new sense of pride and identity that helped propel East Side Kosher’s growth. East Side Kosher Deli is now the primary kosher resource available to the thousands of kosher-keeping Jews traveling to Denver. It is amazing to see one person bring so much value to the kosher community with a single establishment. A one-stop shop for everything you need kosher, East Side offers a full service supermarket (with a very nice selection of chalav yisrael yogurt, cheese, meat, produce and grocery items), on-site bakery, sushi counter, deli, takeout, catering and wholesale, as well as a restaurant open for lunch and dinner. East Side Kosher also provides delivery to areas outside of Denver, providing a helpful service to travelers in the nearby vicinity. Shua's motto is, “If a car will drive there, we’ll send it!” They’ll even send dry goods via overnight UPS, if requested. This is a golden resource for kosher travelers, as well as for the 550 religious families living in Denver. While visiting Denver, we stopped in to try out the restaurant, which has a homey, out-of-town vibe. The restaurant is located in the back of the deli, which means you can see inside the deli for a first-hand view of the operation. The menu is extensive, with plenty of affordable options. Our favorites included the fully-loaded burgers and AFTER DECADES WORKING
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melt-in-your-mouth Korean short ribs, as well as a sizzling fajita platter served with flour tortillas, refried beans, guacamole and Spanish rice — a hearty and unique feast on its own. Other specialties on the menu include house-made deli, including corned beef and pastrami and dry aged meats. Shua’s latest passion is old-school coal and wood smoking, using a variety of wood to offer unique and authentic slow-smoked meats. The restaurant offers a full breakfast menu as well, including pancakes, blintzes and eggs, as well as a large selection of salads, smoked fish, bourekas and artisanal sandwiches.
Shua prides himself on the aged beef program East Side Deli offers.
AS AN OWNER-RUN establishment, East Side Kosher has the ability to stay true to their mission of providing comprehensive kosher services by working with customers directly to meet their needs, whether that is catering for small events (up to 400 people) or custom menu matching to provide a kosher option for religious attendees at otherwise non-kosher events. Orders can be customized as needed, from raw goods to prepare on your trip to fully cooked meals, as well as gluten-free, vegetarian or other specialty options, all available through their website for convenient ordering and pickup. Every kosher traveler knows what a challenge it can be to plan food for a trip, but no matter what your needs may be, East Side Kosher’s got you covered.
www.eastsidekosherdeli.com
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S H I F R A’ S NOTE
OUR SEARCH FOR THE PERFECT BAGEL LANDED US IN H O T WAT E R After our trip to Rosenberg’s Kosher Bagel Shop in Denver, Colorado this past summer, we were inspired to learn the art of making bagels at home. Making bagels seems so intimidating and is something I have never personally attempted. However, COVID-19 has sparked the hidden baker in many of us and summer 2020 was the perfect time to tackle this feat. The kosher world is filled with many talented bakers, chefs and recipe developers. Naomi Elberg, who runs the popular Instagram account @naomi_tgis, is one such individual and has mastered the art of yeast baking. I reached out to Naomi for guidance on bagel making and learned that she had two varieties to share — classic New York and Montreal style. As a New York native, the concept of Montreal bagels was new to me. Montreal-style bagels are sweeter and have a lighter bite, whereas New Yorkstyle bagels are more dense and chewy. I had mixed feelings about which version I’d feature but ultimately decided to share both so that you can choose your preference … or be extra like us — make both and enjoy a bagel tasting.
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CULINARY SCHOOL
Montreal-style bagels are sweeter and have a lighter bite, whereas New York-style bagels are more dense & chewy.
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CULINARY SCHOOL
BAGEL BOARD RESOURCES
Affordable wooden boards can be found in stores like Marshall's, Home Goods, TJ Maxx, Target, etc. Beet-cured gravlax and other smoked fish: Ossie’s Fish ossiesfish.com
BAGEL BOARDS BY SHIFRA KLEIN
Boards of any kind are a go-to for entertaining. They are super trendy, so inspiration is bountiful for almost any theme. Simply check out your favorite food Instagram account or do a quick Google or Pinterest search and you’ll be inundated with thousands of stunning boards like meat, deli, fish, vegetables (see page 80 for our
crudité platter), cheese, bagels, hummus and so much more. It’s a glamorous way to create a crowdfriendly, show-stopping buffet item, even utilizing humble store bought ingredients. Whether or not you are making your own bagels, no one is going to be disappointed when you serve them with lox, smoked fish and accoutrements of choice.
Add fresh elements like lemon, sliced cucumbers and fresh herbs. Spiralized beets make a statement as well. Find small, tasty bites to fill in gaps. We used gourmet olives, grape tomatoes and capers. Cornichons work well too. Have a star ingredient. In this case, beet gravlax will leave people talking. Include something creamy. We used hummus and avocado wedges, but cream cheese (dairy or vegan) is another great option. Offer a variety of textures to help guests create the ultimate bite.
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THE CROSSBORDER RIVALRY
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Montreal-Style Bagels
New York-Style Bagels
Yield: 15 bagels
Yield: 8 bagels
Once you try this recipe, you’ll understand why Montreal-style bagel shops are popping up all over the place. Montreal-style bagels are boiled in honey water, then baked in a wood-fired oven to give them their classic charred characteristic. You can easily recreate that environment by using a pizza stone, baking steel or a metal baking sheet.
Note: This recipe happens to be vegan, which is great for those who are following an egg-free diet or have an allergy.
2¼ 1¼ 2 3½
teaspoons active dry yeast cups warm water, divided tablespoons + 1 teaspoon sugar, divided cups bread flour (or a combination of all-purpose and bread/high-gluten flour) 1 teaspoon pink Himalayan or fine sea salt 1 egg ½ cup + 2 tablespoons honey, divided 2 tablespoons oil Sesame seeds, poppy seeds and everything bagel spice, for topping 1. Add yeast, ½ cup water and 1 teaspoon sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Let yeast proof until bubbles begin to form. 2. Add flour, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and salt to the yeast mixture. Knead on low speed. With the mixer running, add egg, 2 tablespoons honey, remaining ¾ cup warm water and oil. 3. Knead on medium speed until the sides of the bowl are clean and the dough has gathered on the hook in one ball. If the dough seems dry, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time. If the dough seems too wet, add a bit more flour. 4. Let dough rest in the bowl for 2 minutes, then knead again for 3-5 minutes. The dough should be smooth and elastic. Remove dough from the hook, cover and let rest for 10 minutes. 5. After 10 minutes, divide dough into 15 even portions. Roll each portion into a snake 8-10 inches long and ¾-inch thick. Attach the ends and roll under the palm of your hand to secure them together to ensure they don’t fall apart in the water. Let bagels rest for 15 minutes. Prepare a greased cooling rack set over a baking sheet.
BATTLE OF THE BULGE
6. Preheat oven to 450°F and place a pizza stone, baking steel or baking sheet in the oven. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add remaining ½ cup honey and stir until dissolved. Reduce heat to low. Add bagels and boil, 3-4 at a time, for 30 seconds per side, then transfer to the prepared cooling rack using a slotted spoon or spider. Carefully remove pizza stone from the oven. While still slightly wet, dip bagels in seeds of choice and place on the hot stone. 7. Bake for 10-12 minutes, then flip bagels and bake for another 5-10 minutes, until both sides are blistered and golden.
1¼ 4½ 2 3½ 1½ 3
cups warm water teaspoons sugar teaspoons yeast cups bread/high-gluten flour teaspoons pink Himalayan or fine sea salt tablespoons dark brown sugar, optional Sesame seeds, poppy seeds and everything bagel spice, for topping
1. Add warm water, sugar and yeast to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Let yeast proof until bubbles begin to form. 2. Add flour and salt to the yeast mixture. Knead on medium speed for 5-7 minutes, until the sides of the bowl are clean and the dough has gathered on the hook in one ball. If the dough seems dry, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time. If the dough seems too wet, add a bit more flour. Dough should be smooth and elastic, but dense — it will soften as it rises. 3. Cover dough and let rise in a greased bowl at room temperature until doubled in size. Once risen, gently press out the air and divide into 8 (roughly 4-ounce) portions. Roll into balls and let dough rest, covered, for 5 minutes. 4. On a lightly floured surface, gently reshape balls if needed and using your index finger, poke a hole through the center. Stretch to form a hole. Cover bagels to rest. Prepare a greased cooling rack set over a baking sheet and another baking sheet lined with parchment paper. 5. Preheat oven to 425°F. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add brown sugar, if desired (this will sweeten the bagels and is one of the differentiating markers of New York-style bagels). Once sugar is dissolved, reduce heat to a simmer. Add bagels, 3-4 at a time, and boil for 1-2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cooling rack using a slotted spoon or spider. While still slightly wet, dip in seeds of choice, then place on the lined baking sheet. 6. Bake in the oven for 22-25 minutes, until golden.
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WINE TO DI FOR
THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H
TERRA DI SETA, THE JEWEL OF TUSCANY 112
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isn't e a s y to quantify the rich history and vast wine culture in Europe. Most of us are intimately familiar or at least somewhat aware of the expansive collection of kosher French wine out there, but what about other countries? Italians have been making fine wines practically as long as the French and kosher wine from Italy is a relatively newer revelation in the wine world. Operating as wine growers and small producers since 2001, the Della Seta family had dreamed of bringing a fully kosher winery to Tuscany for many years. In 2008, Terra di Seta winery finally became the first fully kosher winery in Italy. DANIELE DELLA SETA and his wife Maria Pellegrini-Della Seta
have a fascinating background in Italian culture, viticulture and biology. Daniele holds a PhD in biology and Maria comes from three generations of winemakers and restaurateurs. The couple has the perfect background to harmoniously foster the growth and development of a successful winery along with a new restaurant in the heart of Italy’s premier wine country. DECEMBER 2020
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Kosher castle on the hill.
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and potatoes. Each part of Italy has its strengths for the types of wines made in the region. We divide the Chianti region into several designations or sub regions — Chianti Classico is the most prestigious one, which is broken down into four levels: the “regular” Chianti Classico; Superiore; Riserva; and Gran Selezione. Terra di Seta winery offers three wines of these four levels. Similar in many ways to the many regulations in place in France and Spain's wine-growing regions, the restrictions on each wine classification coming from each area are quite complex. A Chianti Classico must be aged for at least six months, the Superiore for 12 months, the Riserva for 24 months and the Gran Selezione — the highest and most sought after — for a minimum of 30 months. I've always wanted to visit TERRA DI SETA MESHI TOSCANA ROSÉ
D
aniele hails from an ancient Roman family, which he can trace back 2000 years! Maria hails from an old Tuscan family with deep roots in Pitigliano, known in Italy as “Little Jerusalem.” Wine culture in Italy and across most of Europe is very similar. Many Americans and Jews reserve their wine consumption for Shabbat or other holidays and special occasions. Daniele appreciated wine’s appearance on Shabbat and Chagim. Still, it was not until he met Maria that his love and passion for fine wines grew. The Pellegrini family’s Italian roots are deep, with a powerful connection and knowledge about wine for many generations. They also operate many restaurants across the region. The restaurant at the Terra di Seta winery is their ninth family restaurant! In Italian culture, wine is always on the table, with or without rich Italian foods made with excellent olive oils, homemade tomato concoctions and either delicious cheese or rich meat dishes. Daniele shares his favorite way to enjoy Chianti wines by selecting aged cheeses like Pecorino Romano or Parmesan or with a simply roasted leg of lamb with olive oil, rosemary
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OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK
Tuscany, and for now, this trip is on a temporary hold. Still, we hope to experience Italy in all its glory soon! Since Tuscany has such a rich history, with wine, food, art, architecture and nature available to its residents and tourists, it is known worldwide to be a wonderful place to visit. It is a unique place that has it all, similar to Chianti wines — they are rich without being too powerful, they have a clear, beautiful hue and the flavors are drool-worthy and herbaceous. Cherry and leather notes are typical of a young Chianti with robust tannins, which may indicate how long these beautiful wines can age. The Chianti Classico region includes different geophysical areas, which is reflected in the wine's chemical and organoleptic characteristics. Terra di Seta is located in the southernmost part of the Chianti Classico territory, characterized by well-exposed and sunny vineyards, which enjoy the breeze coming from the coast. Terra di Seta is one of the highest wineries in the region, perched on a hill almost 500 meters above sea level, with an amphitheater of vineyards overlooking DECEMBER 2020
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Siena. The soil is also very rocky with percentages of “Galestro” (clay soil) and “Alberese” (limestone), perfect for the cultivation of Sangiovese grapes. This is a very favorable combination for the production of full-bodied, fruity, complex and elegant wines, which often distinguishes this winery from others in the area. I asked Daniele and Maria to explain the different subtleties between each wine they make. They remarked about the Chianti Classico, which they call “Annata.” “It is a wine that plays a lot on the typical acidity of Sangiovese, which gives great freshness, with intense and
seductive notes of cherry and violets,” explains Daniele. The Chianti Classico “Riserva” corresponds to a more complex and structured wine that becomes more elegant, velvety and harmonious through a more extended period of aging. Finally, the Assai Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is the newest top-level wine in the appellation, making up only about 8% of the total Chianti Classico wine production. Because of the regional regulations, this wine is produced only from selecting the estate’s best grapes and must be aged for a minimum of 30 months, including three months of bottle aging. To be a Gran Selezione, this wine is produced following the strictest standards of chemical parameters, reaching outstanding appearance, aroma and mouthfeel, recognized and approved only after a blind tasting by a
special committee of expert winemakers. From the organoleptic (taste, sight, smell) viewpoint, the Gran Selezione has an impressive structure, superior balance, harmony, depth of flavor and aromatic complexity. It is unmistakably a signature Sangiovese wine. On the palate, it combines a burst of fruit with the fascinating complexities typical of wines that take a long time to develop. Gaining richness from oak aging, this full-bodied wine is an excellent expression of a wine made only with Sangiovese grapes. It is an intense wine and is extremely pleasurable to drink because of the balance of fruit and spice and a delicious, delicate, rich mouthfeel. I don’t know about you, but I am ready to open some Chianti Classico tonight! L’chaim!
Daniele & Maria Extraordinaria
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COOKBOOKS
THE CHICKEN SOUP MANIFESTO BY JENN LOUIS
Written by a James Beard Award nominee, this true manifesto highlights over 100 iterations of one of the world’s most beloved foods — chicken soup. With a version of chicken soup in almost every cuisine, this book is perfect for readers who love history, culture and researching new ingredients. Though not fully kosher, most of the recipes naturally are or are easily adaptable. See exclusive sneak peek recipe on page 124. $22 | amazon.com
THE MARBLESPOON COOKBOOK BY VERA NEWMAN
The author weaves her multicultural lineage with modern influences in this beautifully photographed kosher cookbook. The 160+ recipes that showcase multiple cuisines, coupled with tons of valuable information, make this a welcome addition to any cookbook collection. See exclusive sneak peek recipe on page 125. $34.99 | menuchapublishers.com
SNACKING CAKES BY YOSSY AREFI
DINNER DONE BY LEAH SCHAPIRA, VICTORIA DWEK, RENEE MULLER, ESTI WALDMAN AND SHAINDY MENZER
This book, released by the team behind the popular website Between Carpools, contains over 150 easy-toprepare, family-friendly dishes that you'll come back to over and over. In addition to all the new recipes, there are many Between Carpools classics, like a full chapter on recipes prepared entirely in a 9x13-inch pan in minutes.
This easy-to-follow cookbook devoted to the simple single-layer cake will delight both novice and expert bakers. All 50 recipes are no-fuss — think one bowl and a whisk. While many of the recipes are dairy, most can be adapted for pareve baking with simple substitutions like non-dairy milk and butter. See exclusive sneak peek recipe on page 123.
$28 | amazon.com
$18.79 | amazon.com
KITCHEN ACCESSORIES PREPARA SIMPLY MIST OIL SPRAYER
With its sleek design and glass base, this oil sprayer is a healthier alternative to aerosol cooking sprays. It has two different spray settings, is compatible with any oil and is dishwasher safe for easy cleaning. $19.95 | surlatable.com
CHIC WRAP
This is truly the gift for the person who has everything. These decorative storage boxes (in a multitude of designs) house rolls of parchment paper, plastic wrap and aluminum foil and have a sliding cutting mechanism for clean, perfect cuts every time. Each refillable box comes loaded with one roll and has four rubber “feet” for stability. Gift box sets available as well. prices start at $11 and vary by style chicwrap.com
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GIFT GUIDE
MIYABI HIBANA 8-INCH CHEF’S KNIFE
BENRINER JUMBO JAPANESE MANDOLINE
This Japanese chef’s knife is as beautiful as it is practical and sturdy. It may be a splurge, but a quality chef’s knife will stand the test of time.
Japanese mandolines are sleeker and take up much less space in the kitchen compared to their bulkier counterparts. This jumbo version makes it easier to slice larger fruits and vegetables. With knobs to adjust thickness level, a safety guard and a fixed, straight-edged blade for precision-like cuts, this mandoline is a great addition to any kitchen.
$149.96 | surlatable.com
$65.99 | amazon.com ANNEVIEVE ROLLING PIN
This stoneware rolling pin is a piece of art. Its beautiful illustrations lend a pop of color to any kitchen.
KITCHEN METRICS DIGITAL KITCHEN FOOD SCALE AND MEASURING CUP
$20 | anthropologie.com
This two-in-one four cup measuring cup serves as a digital scale as well, making it great for small spaces. $22.98 | amazon.com
LODGE CAST IRON REVERSIBLE GRILL/ GRIDDLE
Nothing can compare to cast iron cooking and this 20x10½-inch two-sided pan is extremely versatile — one side is a griddle and the other side is a grill pan. It’s pre-seasoned and with proper care, can last a lifetime. $44.99 | target.com
M A K E -YO U R OWN KITS THE BETTER HOUSE BAMBOO MAGNETIC BAR
This multi-purpose magnetic bar is great for knives and utensils in the kitchen or for craft and gardening tools. It’s eco-friendly, sturdy and easy to hang.
BUTTER CHURNER
This charming gadget allows you to churn your own butter in a few simple steps. It even includes a few recipes for different varieties of butter. $39 | uncommongoods.com
$29.99 | thebetterhouse.com
FARM STEADY LACTO PICKLE MAKING KIT
BICYCLE PIZZA CUTTER
Available in three colors, this pizza cutter is perfect for the avid cyclist and foodie. $9.98 | amazon.com
Pickles are the ultimate meal accompaniment and this reusable kit takes the guesswork out of making your own pickles at home. The kit can also be used to make kraut, kimchi and more. $40 | anthropologie.com
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OVALWARE COLD BREW ICED COFFEE MAKER
This sleek glass carafe with removable stainless steel filter allows you to make your own cold brew at home. The airtight seal keeps coffee fresh for up to two weeks and the rubber base will keep it from slipping. Holds approximately 6½ cups of coffee. $35.99 | amazon.com
MICROGREENS
Grow your own microgreens easily with this starter kit. It comes with three seed quilts that can be customized to your liking with 10 different microgreen options such as kale, daikon radish, broccoli, wheatgrass, cabbage and more. Each kit comes with a reusable grow tray, but ceramic and bamboo grow trays are available for purchase as well. $49 for the basic starter kit | hamama.com
MASON JAR INDOOR HERB GARDEN
These individual jars are perfect for someone who wants to grow herbs off-season or who doesn’t have any outdoor space. Self-watering jars promote a foolproof indoor system and the tinted, vintageinspired mason jars fit with any style.
KING ARTHUR SOURDOUGH STARTER & CROCK SET
If creating a sourdough starter from scratch seems intimidating, this sourdough starter and crock set is the perfect solution. King Arthur’s live starter originates from a 100-year-old starter and is not dried like some other sourdough starter offerings on the market. The stoneware crock is the perfect vessel to house your sourdough starter as it grows. Certified kosher by OU. $32.90 (starter alone is available for purchase for $8.95) kingarthurbaking.com
$20 | uncommongoods.com
BACK TO THE ROOTS OYSTER MUSHROOM GROWING KIT
You don’t need a green thumb to grow these mushrooms — simply pop open the box filled with organic soil, water as directed and within 10 days, gourmet oyster mushrooms will grow right on your countertop. $19.99 | bedbathandbeyond.com PATIOPTION SOURDOUGH KIT
This 21-piece kit includes everything one would need to jump on the bandwagon and make sourdough at home. Items include banneton proofing basket, cloth liner, scoring lame with additional blades, dough whisk, bench scraper and 16 stencils. $23.99 | amazon.com
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GIFT GUIDE
FOOD GIFTS TROPICAL FRUIT BOX
ALONSO EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
A tropical fruit box is a wonderful gift for someone who appreciates quality produce. The offerings vary by season, but there are a variety of options available, from classic choices like pineapple, banana, mango and avocado to more exotic fruits like mangosteen, dragon fruit and rambutan. There is even a create-your-own box option.
This extra-virgin olive oil, which is made in Chile, is the perfect gift for any lover of high-quality products. Available in three different varieties — Coratina, Koroneiki and Arbequina. Certified kosher by OU. $14.99 | theolivetradingco.com SARABETH’S PRESERVES GIFT BOX
Known for their use of simple ingredients (fruit, sugar and water), this gift box includes six (4-ounce) jars of preserves — plum cherry, strawberry raspberry, mixed berry, pineapple mango, peach apricot and orange apricot marmalade. Perfect for both sweet and savory applications, preserves are a must-have pantry item for any home cook. Certified kosher by OU.
prices vary from $49-$189 tropicalfruitbox.com
GROW & BEHOLD SAUSAGE SAMPLER
Sample some of Grow & Behold’s homemade sausages or choose the deluxe sampler for the ultimate gift. The sausages are made with high-quality beef and lamb, with no additives or growth hormones, and would delight any meat lover. prices vary | growandbehold.com
$35 | sarabeth.com
FLEISHIGS SUBSCRIPTION
If you are reading this guide, congrats — you are probably the proud owner of your very own subscription to the best kosher magazine on the market (we’re biased, of course). Fleishigs Magazine makes a great gift for anyone — whether young or old, homecook or professional chef or simply an admirer of all things food and travel. The best part is that it can be shipped internationally, so you can share with loved ones anywhere in the world. $66 for one year, $130 for two years | fleishigs.com
MINA MOROCCAN FISH TAGINE SAUCE
This gift box includes all of Union’s unique spice blends — Apple Crisp; Cholent; Hot Stuff, Mediterranean; and Rosemary Garlic. Made with simple ingredients, these blends are the perfect addition to any pantry. Certified kosher by Star-K and CRC.
Mina’s authentic tagine sauce has a rich depth of flavor and is made with high-quality ingredients like extra-virgin olive oil, herbs, tomatoes, lemon and spices. When pressed for time, it’s a great shortcut for Moroccan fish, without compromising on flavor. Check out the other varieties of tagine sauce — purchase a few bottles and package it nicely for a unique gift. Certified kosher by Chof-K.
$34.99 | unionspiceblends.com
$7 | casablancafoods.com
UNION SPICE BLENDS GIFT BOX
UNPRECEDENTED THYME SPICE BLEND
Brought to you by the Fleishigs Magazine team during quarantine, this spice blend made with quality herbs and spices like thyme, sumac and Himalayan sea salt (among others) will surely elevate any dish. Plus, 10% of proceeds are donated to the Masbia Soup Kitchen Network, which provides food packages to New York residents in need. Certified kosher by Star-K. $9.99 | unprecedentedthyme.com
DS TAYMAN SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY (SECOND EDITION)
This brand new whisky is aged in hand-picked Israeli wine barrels from the renowned Flam winery and is the only one on the market with three widely accepted kosher certifications. Currently, there are two single cask varieties — Linkwood, which is sweet and smooth; and Caol Ila, which is smoky and peaty, so there is something for everyone. Visit “where to buy” on dstayman.com for a list of shops and online retailers where the whisky is sold. DECEMBER 2020
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SPLURGES BOSCH UNIVERSAL PLUS MIXER
Bosch’s newest improved model of its popular mixer has a 6½ quart capacity stainless steel bowl, four speeds and pulse feature and suction cups at the bottom for stability. Any avid baker will attest to the Bosch being a workhorse. $459 | boschmixers.com
VITAMIX EXPLORIAN BLENDER
One of the lower priced options in the Vitamix series, the Explorian model is extremely powerful and very easy to clean. With 10 speed settings and a pulse feature, it creates the smoothest, silkiest purées. $349.95 | williams-sonoma.com
STAUB 4-QUART DUTCH OVEN
This 14-cup food processor is a powerful, all-purpose machine. Equipped with a shredding disc, slicing disc and chopping blade, the uses are endless.
A Dutch oven, while a splurge, will last for years with proper care. It has endless uses, from stews to roasts and even sourdough. Heat resistant up to 500°F, it can be used for stovetop cooking (induction too) or oven/ convection cooking. The enamel coating lends to its durability and comes in a variety of colors.
$229.95 | surlatable.com
$299.99 | bedbathandbeyond.com
CUISINART FOOD PROCESSOR
T R AV E L GA D G E T S
CRUNCH CUP
This handy gadget is perfect for the cereal lover in your life. Pour the milk into the outer cup and add the cereal into the insert. Snap on the lid and either eat straight from the cup on-the-go (the cereal and milk don’t touch until they reach your mouth) or pour into a bowl simultaneously and enjoy. The cup, which is available in three colors, is crack resistant and includes a 2-year warranty.
INSTANT POT
If you don’t already have an Instant Pot, now is the time to buy one or gift one — the latest 8-quart model is Chanukah-friendly with an air fryer attachment, making this multi-cooker even more versatile. $179.95 | amazon.com
$18.95 | thecrunchcup.com
BETTY CROCKER PIZZA MAKER
While marketed as a pizza maker, this device can also be used for chicken, paninis, pancakes, nachos, burgers, shakshuka, omelettes and more. It’s fairly compact, making it an excellent travel piece. It also works for reheating food. $29.99 | walmart.com
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BLENDJET ONE BLENDER
This powerful, compact single-serve blender works for smoothies, shakes, dressings, baby food and more. It charges via USB port and you can drink it straight from the container, so it’s especially great on-the-go or for the office. Available in 10 bright colors. $39.95 | blendjet.com
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COOKBOOK SNEAK PEEK
Pumpkin Olive Oil Cake with Maple Olive Oil Glaze Serves: 10
Reprinted with permission from Snacking Cakes by Yossy Arefi, copyright © 2020. Photographs by Yossy Arefi. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC. Pumpkin cake isn’t just for the fall, and this version, spiked with a bit of allspice and black pepper, has a hit of warmth that makes it more exciting than your average pumpkin spice mix. The glaze has a sweet and savory thing going on that pairs beautifully with the spices. If you prefer your pumpkin cake unadorned, feel free to skip the glaze and just sprinkle a few tablespoons of untoasted pepitas over the top of the cake batter before it goes into the oven.
1 2 1 ½ 1 ½ ⅛
cup (200g) light brown sugar large eggs cup (230g) pumpkin purée cup (120ml) olive oil teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cardamom teaspoon ground allspice
½ 1 ½ 1 ½ 2
A few grinds of black pepper teaspoon kosher salt cups (190g) all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda tablespoons chopped toasted pepitas (optional)
Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter or coat an 8-inch square baking pan with nonstick spray. Line the pan with a strip of parchment paper that hangs over two of the edges. M A K E T H E CA K E 1. in a large bowl, whisk the brown sugar and eggs until pale and foamy, about 1 minute. Add the pumpkin purée, olive oil, cinnamon, cardamom, allspice, pepper, and kosher salt. Whisk until smooth and emulsified.
4. Bake until puffed and golden, and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 25 to 25 minutes. Set the pan on a rack to cool for about 15 minutes. Then use the parchment paper to lift the cake out of the pan and set it on the rack to cool completely.
Maple Olive Oil Glaze
1 2 2 1
cup (100 g) confectioners’ sugar tablespoons olive oil tablespoons maple syrup to 2 tablespoons hot water Pinch of kosher salt Chopped pepitas (optional) Flaky salt (optional)
MAKE THE GLAZE
2. Add the flour, baking powder, and baking soda and whisk until well-combined and smooth.
1. Combine the confectioners’ sugar, olive oil, maple syrup, 1 tablespoon of the hot water, and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium bowl. Whisk until smooth, adding more water as necessary to make a thick but pourable glaze.
3. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, tap the pan gently on the counter to release any air bubbles, and smooth the top of the batter with an offset spatula. Sprinkle the pepitas over the top if you are not going to glaze the cake.
2. Pour the glaze over the cooled cake and sprinkle with the pepitas and flaky salt, if desired. Let the glaze set for about 20 minutes before slicing the cake. (Store the cake, well wrapped, at room temperature for up to three days.)
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COOKBOOK SNEAK PEEK
Yakhni Reprinted with permission from The Chicken Soup Manifesto by Jenn Louis Serves: 4
My friend Asya Ghafarshad’s parents immigrated to the US from Afghanistan in the 1960s. Asya was born in the US and her mom tells her stories of growing up in Afghanistan. Her parents own an iconic restaurant in Claremont, California, the town where I went to high school and college. It is called Walter’s and serves delicious continental cuisine, as well as Afghan favorites. This is her father’s chicken soup. Asya likes to cook the chicken breasts on the bone to make the broth, then shred the cooked chicken and add it back to the soup just as it is nearly done. She does not peel the carrots and the vegetables are cut into larger chunks, just the way her dad made the soup. 0 ml (3 fl oz/⅓ cup) olive oil 9 1 large yellow onion, cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes 2 roma or plum tomatoes, cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes 1.9 liters (64 fl oz/8 cups) water or chicken stock 150g (5½ oz/1 cup) yellow or red lentils or 200 g (7 oz/1 cup) basmati rice 900g (2 lb) skinless chicken breast, bone in 2 large carrots, cut into 5 cm (2 in) pieces 2 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 4 cm (1½ in) half-moons 80g (2¾ oz) cilantro, leaves and stems roughly chopped, plus sprigs to garnish 1 tablespoon ground turmeric 1 tablespoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon ground cardamom 55g (2 oz) fresh spinach 1 lemon, to serve 1. Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium–high heat. Add the onion and cook for 3–4 minutes until it begins to become translucent. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes until the tomatoes release their juices. Add the remaining ingredients, then bring to the boil. 2. Immediately reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender, the soup has thickened and the chicken is cooked – a thermometer will read 74°C (165°F) when inserted into the thickest part of the breast and the juices of the chicken will run clear. 3. When the chicken is cooked, remove from the pot and leave until cool enough to handle. Using your hands, shred all the meat and discard the bones. Add the meat back to the soup and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Squeeze the lemon juice into the soup, adding as much tangy flavor as possible without it becoming sour, and garnish with cilantro sprigs.
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COOKBOOK SNEAK PEEK
Crispy Polenta with Spicy Kani Reprinted with permission from The Marblespoon Cookbook by Vera Newman Pareve | Yields approximately 18 servings
If you were to ask my husband what’s the best dish I’ve ever created, he’d immediately respond, “Crispy Polenta with Spicy Kani.” It’s surprisingly easy and quick to put together, but the outcome and the combination of flavors is truly spectacular. This is a five-star-restaurant type of appetizer.
2 1 1
Oil, for frying 18-oz logs precooked polenta avocado, quartered and thinly sliced watermelon radish, quartered and thinly sliced (see note) Microgreens, for garnishing, optional Black sesame seeds, for garnishing
K A N I SA L A D
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kani sticks, defrosted Tbsp mayonnaise tsp Sriracha sauce tsp rice vinegar
1. In a large non-stick frying pan, over medium heat, pour enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. 2. Using a serrated knife, slice each polenta log into 10 slices, about ½-inch thick.
3. Fry for 5 minutes per side, until crispy and golden. Do not overcrowd the pan. Transfer to a paper towel-lined tray. 4. To prepare the kani salad, unwrap the kani and roll on a clean cutting board to release the strings. Once all of the kani is shredded, cut into threes. 5. Transfer kani to a mixing bowl, then add mayonnaise, Sriracha sauce, and rice vinegar. Mix well to combine. 6. To assemble, top each crispy polenta round with a small amount of kani salad, a slice of avocado, and a slice of watermelon radish. Finish off with microgreens, if using, and black sesame seeds. N OT E S : Watermelon radishes are a seasonal vegetable and sometimes hard to find. Substitute with regular radish if you’re unable to find. The person who tested this recipe for me suggested drizzling some sushi-style sweet sauce for serving. I think that’s brilliant!
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SPECIAL WINES FOR SPECIAL GIFTS
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B Y: GA B R I E L G E L L E R
KEEPING WITH THE theme of international flavors, I chose some exceptional wines this month that would please the most discerning wine lover. Wines and spirits are a rather classic gift choice, whether for Chanukah or in general, and a bottle of wine presented in a gift box always makes a strong impression. However, the box or the label does not necessarily guarantee the quality of the contents. Here is a selection of five great wines that also come in a beautiful gift package:
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TABOR LIMITED EDITION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016
This is an elegant Cabernet Sauvignon from grapes harvested in a single vineyard that showcases big, bold black fruit aromas with layers of depth and complexity. Tabor is a winery that was established 20 years ago on a very small scale with about 30,000 bottles. It has grown to be one of Israel’s largest wineries, producing more than 2 million bottles a year. Not only have they not compromised on the quality, but they have also increased it ten-fold, and this bottle is an excellent example of that. It comes in a beautiful gift package as well.
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ELVI HERENZA RESERVA RIOJA 2014
One of the best kosher Spanish wines, the Elvi Reserva is an incredibly complex Tempranillo from the Rioja region. It features black plums, black forest berries with notes of herbs, spices and vanilla. This type of wine constantly evolves, developing secondary and tertiary notes over two decades or more. I would recommend picking up at least two bottles, one to drink now and one to open in 5-10 years, as it will reward your patience. The uniqueness and high quality make it a great gift, but it also comes wrapped in an elegant, chic, gold net that makes it stand out at first sight.
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HERZOG SPECIAL RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON LAKE COUNTY 2017
I like to say that Lake County is the Golan Heights of California. Indeed, they both are comparable in altitude — both regions are known for their volcanic soil — yielding wines with remarkable precision and focus, as well as a rich
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mineral core. The Herzog Lake County is an opulent, multi-layered Cabernet and it also has the potential to cellar for a decade. Ask for the gift box!
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CHAMPAGNE BARONS DE ROTHSCHILD MAGNUM (1.5 LITER)
The House of Rothschild has been known for nearly 200 years for three outstanding branches of wines produced throughout the world. This Champagne, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, symbolizes that benchmark quality, resulting from the family’s combined knowledge and experience. A magnum contains 1.5 liters, the equivalent of two regular-sized 750ml bottles, making it ideal for a family party. It is also mevushal, which can be a significant advantage on such occasions. Gifting a magnum of any wine makes an immediate effect, even more so when it’s Champagne!
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NETOFA DOR 2017
Netofa is a boutique winery located between Tzfat and Tiberias in the Galilee. The Netofa Dor is the winery’s flagship wine, a single varietal wine produced from the variety that showed best in any given vintage. For 2017 it was Syrah, which is a grape that has been thriving and producing unique and delightful wines ever since it was first planted in Israel about 25 years ago. This wine shows a full body, with black and red berry fruit and a spicy aroma of black pepper and nutmeg. It is an Israeli wine, but the winemaking style takes its inspiration from France’s Rhône Valley. It is available in a beautiful individual gift package. While it is tremendously enjoyable now, it will also benefit from a few years of further bottle aging.
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KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients
CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 34 Judd’s Lemon Pepper Rub M Q 34 Judd’s Alabama White Sauce and Glaze Q 34 Judd’s Signature Sauce M Q 34 Judd’s Memphis Hot Sando Sauce M Q 38 Italian Salsa Verde Q 46 Tamarind Chutney 53 Cashew “Queso” Dip Q 53 Chunky Guacamole FF M Q 58 Sofrito M 58 Mojo M Q 58 Avocado Salsa 64 Pineapple Mojitos 65 Café Cubano M Q 76 Chimichurri M Q 88 Caramelized Onions 88 Garlic Mayonnaise Q
Q Quick
MEAT 27 27 28 50 62 76 88
Savory Deckle with Instant Gravy FF Corned Beef Deckle FF Asian Sticky Glazed Deckle FF Pastrami Spring Rolls FF Slow Cooker Ropa Vieja Chimichurri London Broil M Q Meat Pizza FF
POULTRY 34 More-Than-Basic Chicken Nuggets FF 58 Arroz Con Pollo FF 124 Yakhni
SNACKS
BAKED GOODS
46 Pakoras 53 Homemade Corn Tortilla Chips FF M Q 50 Potato Kugel Bites FF M 50 Fried Matzah Balls FF M 50 Fried Pickles FF 62 Tostones M Q FF
111 Montreal-Style Bagels FF 111 New York-Style Bagels FF 123 Pumpkin Olive Oil Cake with Maple Olive Oil Glaze Q FF
VEGETARIAN & FISH 38 58 74 78 78 80 107 125
Whole Fried Fish M Q Tomato Black Bean Salad Q Spice-Rubbed Salmon FF M Q Roasted Eggplant Salad FF M Q Beet Lentil Salad Winter Vegetable Platter FF M Q Bagel Board FF Crispy Polenta with Spicy Kani
SWEET TREATS 16 17 19 19 19 19 19 19 42 63 78
Classic Sufganiyot FF Donut Holes FF Chocolate Glaze Q Vanilla Glaze M Q “Donut Shop” Glaze M Q Rosewater Pistachio Glaze M Q Cookies and Cream Glaze FF M Q Lotus Cookie Butter Glaze FF M Q Beaver Tails FF Bunuelos with Guava Glaze FF Pineapple Salad FF M Q
LAST BITE
JULY 23, 2020 VOLUME 1 ISSUE 7 BUSINESS
JEWISH NEWS, 24/6, AND EVEN LESS DURING HOLIDAYS
Webster’s “Stunning” Sues Jewish Instagrammers for Textual Misconduct BROOKLYN, NY - In what experts deemed as a long time coming, Webster dictionary’s “Stunning” officially filed a lawsuit against several Instagrammers on 8,934 accounts of 1st degree textual misconduct and lack of providing any real value to a comment section. Multiple reports revealed the felonies could be traced back to countless offenses beginning in 2010, with more recent violations that included sliding into DMs and Question Stickers. The tired adjective described the case as a “giant burden lifted off its chest.” “At first, I was stoked,” said the popular modifier. “As an 8-letter word in the world’s largest lexicon, it felt good to have a place I could actually call home. But then foodie accounts got big and I felt like I was just being used. I remember hanging out in a brisket post, and within minutes, I was tossed around like a Jus By Julie feta salad. That’s when I knew I had to put a stop to it.” Highlights of the initial hearing included the prosecutor referencing Section 15a of the Generic Comments Act, which states that one may not publish a predictable comment that serves absolutely no purpose, like seriously. “I just hope I’ve done enough to encourage more victims to come forth and bring these abusers to justice.” At press time, several more hackneyed adjectives, including Yum, Gorgeous, Amazing, Delicious and OMG took to the stand to testify. When broached about a potential piggyback investigation, the Commenting Robots for Influencers, Noobs and Gamers Everywhere (C.R.I.N.G.E.) declined to comment, via an automated reply. <*}}}<
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