Fleishigs Magazine Issue 023 - January 2021 by Fleishigs Magazine

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BUTCHER'S CUT

This month, we explore the underrated cut of beef cheek with the help of some experts

EDITOR’S LETTER

GADGETS Chef Avner Guzman's tools of the trade

UNIQUE STAPLES Our favorite ingredients for

26 SHABBOS FEAST

Ahuva Schwartz of The Katamon Kitchen shares a #shabbattogo menu and tips

cooking this issue 46 L'CHAIM Choosing wines for

Shabbos 58 SEASONAL Highlighting the work of private chefs • Moshe Wendel: A Kosher Pioneer • Sruli Subar: A Logistics Expert • Aviva Friedman: Fine Dining at Home • Isaac Bernstein: Revolutionizing Kosher

CULINARY SCHOOL

Behind the scenes with Chef Avner Guzman

96 BACK POCKET Private chefs Hudi Riven and Hunny Khodorkovsky share their favorite versatile dishes 106 TRAVEL • Traveling in luxury with KPC Concierge • Miriam Wallach’s trip to Maui 120 INTERVIEW Mixology at home with Jazz Age Cocktails 124 COOKBOOK The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook by Paula Shoyer

116

SOMETHING SWEET

Bracha Arnold elevates classic desserts

128 RECIPE INDEX 130 LAST BITE

EDITOR'S LETTER

THE PRIVATE CHEF ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

We're taking private chefs public.

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

MY FIRST PRIVATE chef experience was back in 2012, when Chef Isaac Bernstein created a 15-course tasting menu at Pomegranate, Brooklyn’s upscale supermarket, where he took the helm as culinary director. I had never had a meal like that before — small, progressive bites from a light fish crudo and a creamy, sweet and savory liver mousse to various preparations of meat and three separate dessert courses. This experience opened my eyes to a new world of food but also to a world of kosher private dining that I didn’t really know existed. As my years in the food industry have gone by, I have come across countless talented kosher private chefs whose specialties range — including Shabbos meals, customized health plans, intimate family gatherings, sheva brachot, gourmet travel experiences and everything in between. It’s hard to believe that Pesach is a few months away. Cookbook author Naomi Nachman, one of my esteemed colleagues, actually began her culinary career as a private chef for Pesach 17 years ago. She still offers those services today. The May 2020 issue of Fleishigs Magazine was supposed to be the annual restaurant issue, but due to COVID-19 and widespread restaurant shutdowns, we had to cancel and rearrange our editorial calendar to accommodate the impact of the pandemic on our lives. At the time, I thought that January would be the perfect time to revisit the restaurant issue, but as the pandemic is not going anywhere, we knew that we would have to rethink our plans again. Scrolling through Instagram one evening, I was inspired by Ahuva Schwartz of The Katamon Kitchen

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss

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(@thekatamonkitchen), who was offering her signature #shabbattogo menus, as well as extending it to #dinnertogo for weeknights, in an effort to accommodate those stuck in Israel without any end in sight. Here was a unique, customized food service being provided by a private chef and it was thriving during the pandemic. In this issue, Ahuva shares some of her signature Shabbos recipes, like sweet and sticky roast chicken, sesame carrots, classic potato kugel and the most delicious apple cider cake. While there are chefs like Ahuva who provide homestyle meals, various private chefs worldwide bring a fine-dining restaurant experience to your home. The perk? The ability to customize a menu to suit the needs and preferences of you and your guests for an experience unlike any other. Looking to take a chef with you on your travels? Sruli Subar is the king of logistics and can create a 5-star dining experience anywhere in the world. He has traveled with families and small groups to Kenya, Maldives, Morocco and more and he has even done it safely during the pandemic. This issue was one of the most fascinating to plan because, beyond the incredible array of recipes shared, each chef’s story is truly a great read and provides tons of insight into this quiet world. Chef Hunny Khodorkovsky, for example, has cooked for such an elite group of clients that she cannot share most of what she does on social media. In other words, private chefs are some of the most under-the-radar and inspirational experts I know. Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Alana White CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Dear eater of meat, rejector of milk, words to you we bring, and the ability to try a plethora of new things. Your kitchen skills we hone, allowing you to make dishes good down to the bone. Our pictures are fly, our recipes easy, our lemons squeezy. Our articles, like a good babka, are layered and juicy. You see, it’s all for you — the one who reads, makes, bakes and takes the cake. This issue was designed to the eclectic dulcet stylings of the Folklore album, Skeeter Davis and L'chaim OG! Go Browns!

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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CHEF AV N E R'S K I TC H E N E SS E N T I A LS I N T H I S M O N T H 'S C U L I N A RY SC H O O L C O LU M N ( PAG E 4 6 ) , AC C L A I M E D C H E F AV N E R G UZ M A N S H A R E S H I S Y E A RS O F W I S D O M . H E R E A R E SO M E TO O LS H E D E E M S E SS E N T I A L TO B E SU C C E SS F U L I N T H E K I TC H E N .

Knives. Instead of those bulky (and pricy!) knife sets, choose a good paring knife, chef's knife and serrated knife as basic starting points. It doesn’t have to be the most expensive or most trendy, it has to work for you and feel comfortable. The most important thing is that they remain sharp.

Oven Thermometer. Chef Avner shares that over the years, he has come to realize how important an oven thermometer is for accuracy. “I was once cooking lamb confit at a restaurant. I put it in a 78°C (about 170°F) oven. After seven hours of cooking, the lamb was nowhere near done! After checking the oven with an oven thermometer, I noticed that my 78°C was really 60°C (140°F)! That difference changed everything.”

Mandoline. This is the secret to perfectly sliced vegetables. You eat with your eyes, so when everything looks uniform and precise, it changes the presentation. Beyond visual appeal, equal-sized vegetables will cook evenly and consistently as well. When caramelizing onions, for example, the more even the cuts, the more tender the onions will be.

High-Powered Blender. Purées and sauces accompany many dishes and a high-powered blender cannot be underestimated when creating these components. In some instances, it isn’t worth it to make a dish that needs a powerful blender if you do not have one as the texture just won’t be the same.

Squeeze Bottles. Being organized in the kitchen is key and having ingredients ready in squeeze bottles also allows you to be more efficient. Plus, they are an inexpensive, yet elegant, way to garnish plates with sauces.

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6 4

3 5 10

BADIA MINCED BLACK GARLIC IN WATER

Black garlic is garlic that has been aged, lending to its strong flavor. Make your own paste if you can find black garlic (page 93), but this readymade product is a great stand-in. Certified kosher by OU.

SAVANNAH BEE HONEYCOMB

A visual centerpiece, raw honeycomb is the perfect addition to any cheese or charcuterie board. Scoop out and eat straight up, eat with a piece of cheese on a cracker or caramelize it and serve alongside Salt-Baked Delicata Squash (page 70). It’s readily available online and should be stored in a dry pantry. Certified kosher by KSA.

MISO MASTER WHITE MISO

Miso is a fermented soybean paste that is packed with umami flavor and commonly used in Asian cuisine. Miso ranges in strength, with white being the most mild and red being stronger in flavor. While mostly utilized in savory applications (like Miso-Crusted Beef Carpaccio, page 90), it’s become trendy to use in desserts — and for good reason. Try it in the Miso-Glazed Brownies on page 118. Tip: Store miso in the freezer; because it’s fermented, it won’t freeze solid. Certified kosher by aKc.

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DEVASH APPLE CIDER

Apple cider (not to be confused with apple juice) is a quintessential ingredient to have on hand in the wintertime. Perfect for warm cocktails, braising meat and baking, we used it for Apple Cider-Braised Short Ribs (page 81) and Apple Cider Muffins (page 43).

CUMIN SEEDS

While ground spices are convenient, whole spices are great to have on hand for recipes that call for the seeds themselves (such as the Lamb Ribs on page 73). Grinding spices on your own also allows you to create as much (or as little) texture as you want. Whole dried spices do not require kosher certification.

DRIED CHILI PEPPERS

Dried chili peppers, used in the Birria Tacos on page 20, are shelf stable and a great ingredient to keep on hand for when the mood strikes. Available in many varieties, find them in Mexican, Asian or Indian markets. Whole dried chilis do not require kosher certification.

BADIA ANNATTO POWDER

Also known as achiote powder, annatto powder was traditionally used as a coloring agent for cosmetics, textiles and even cheeses like

cheddar. However, it’s also used as a spice itself and is popular in Caribbean and Latin American cuisines. Try it in the Birria Tacos on page 20. Certified kosher by OU.

RICE SELECT ARBORIO RICE

Arborio rice is an Italian short-grain rice used for making risotto. The higher starch content makes it the perfect choice for Chef Hunny’s risotto (page 103). Certified kosher by Star K.

NATURAL EARTH PRODUCTS RICE PAPER WRAPPERS

Once dehydrated in warm water, rice paper wrappers can be used with a multitude of ingredients to make summer rolls. Chef Avner Guzman shares another unique use for these wrappers on page 130. Certified kosher by OU. 10

GALIL ROASTED CHESTNUTS

This unique, shelf-stable product is fully cooked, shelled and ready to eat. It’s the star ingredient in the Chestnut French Toast on page 74, but can be used in many applications (soups, stews, desserts and dips). Certified kosher by OK.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BEEF CHEEKS B Y: N A F TA L I H A N AU P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y: S C H N E U R M E N A K E R MY FIRST ENCOUNTER with beef cheeks and your favorite fixing. When our kids happened on a trip with my Rebbe were little, beef cheeks were one of the when I was learning shechita (slaugh- first meats they enjoyed, cooked very ter). We had flown out to a red meat simply with onions and carrots. For plant in Colorado and arrived late. On Rosh Hashana, we enjoyed them with the way to our hotel, we stopped at the a rich, smoky mole sauce. While not plant where we’d be working the next nearly as popular as pot roast or brisday. We took a bag of beef cheeks from ket, there are only two cheeks per steer (obviously!), so they can be hard the previous week’s shechita and to come by; we definitely have added them to a slow cooker TIP customers who make sure to with beer, diced carrots and Don’t have order this cut as soon as it’s onions. We plugged it in, beef cheek? Try shin meat or available. locked the office and went baby kolichel You can sear the meat beto our hotel. When we came instead. fore braising, but you don’t back the next day before sunhave to. We certainly didn’t on rise, the office smelled amazing and we enjoyed a wonderful hot lunch that cold night at the slaughterhouse and that meal was one of the best workafter the day’s work was done. Like other braising cuts, after a ing lunches during my days in the field! long, slow cook in liquid, beef cheeks become tender and soft. The high Naftali Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, a level of collagen creates a silky tex- company that specializes in expertly-butchered premium quality kosher meats that are delivered ture, similar to shin meat, making beef nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him cheeks a wonderful option for tacos or to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, produces pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb other meat sandwiches. Just shred and which and poultry with no hormones or antibiotics. Find serve with hot sauce, crunchy lettuce out more at www.growandbehold.com. JANUARY 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Beef Cheek Pappardelle with Parsley Gremolata By: David Blum

Beef cheek is so versatile — it can be used in the humble chulent, but is also an excellent choice for more elevated dishes like this pasta. It has a rich mouthfeel that soaks in the braising juices after a few hours on a light simmer. While I urge you to try this super easy homemade pasta recipe (far superior to boxed pastas), you can easily use store bought. The whole dish is topped with a bright and fresh classic gremolata — a simple zesty condiment that you will soon find yourself using on everything! N OT E : Once you transfer the pot to the oven, start on the pasta, so that the dough can have enough time to rest and cook by the time the meat is done braising.

Braised Beef Cheeks

Parsley Gremolata

Serves: 6

Yield: About ½ cup

2 1

Combine ½ bunch finely chopped fresh parsley, the zest of 1 lemon, 1 finely minced garlic clove, 1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Let sit for at least 15 minutes before serving.

1 1 1 1 1

4 1

1 1

2 ⅓

pounds beef cheeks teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper teaspoon cumin teaspoon coriander teaspoon dried oregano tablespoon canola oil onion, peeled and cut into quarters cloves garlic, smashed (8-ounce) container whole cremini mushrooms cup dry red wine (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes tablespoons soy sauce cup frozen peas Homemade Pappardelle (recipe follows) or storebought Parsley Gremolata (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Pat beef cheeks dry with paper towels, then season generously with pepper, cumin, coriander and oregano. 2. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot or wide Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear beef cheeks for about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Increase heat to high and add onions, garlic and mushrooms; sauté for about 6 minutes. 3. Add wine to deglaze the pan, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Simmer until reduced by half. Add tomatoes, soy sauce and ¼ cup water. Bring to a boil, then return beef cheeks to the pot. Cover and cook in the oven for 3 hours. 4. After 3 hours, uncover and let cool for 10 minutes. Carefully break up the meat, tomatoes and onions and allow to macerate into a rich sauce. Stir in peas. Serve with pappardelle and top with parsley gremolata.

Homemade Pappardelle Serves: 4-6

This recipe uses 75% all-purpose flour and 25% semolina flour. The semolina allows the sauce to grip the pasta much better, resulting in a light and hearty bite each time. Fresh pasta cooks much faster than dried pasta, so make sure not to overcook it. It only needs about 3 minutes.

2 ½ 4 3 1

cup all-purpose flour cup semolina flour, plus more for dusting eggs + 1 egg yolk tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt

1. Add all ingredients to a food processor and pulse until a rough ball forms. Dust a work surface with semolina flour and knead until smooth, about 2 minutes. 2. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour or refrigerate overnight. 3. Once dough is rested, unwrap and cut into quarters. If you have a pasta roller, flatten the dough until thinness #7. If you don’t have a pasta roller, use a floured rolling pin and roll as thin as possible. 4. Roughly cut the sheets into 1-inch strands of pasta. Dust with semolina and let sit for a few minutes to slightly dry up prior to cooking. 5. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add pasta and cook gently over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes (fresh pasta cooks quickly). Strain and serve immediately.

Dave Blum grew up hearing impaired and received a Cochlear implant at two years old. With his heightened sense of smell and taste, something that is apparent in his delicious food today, Dave quickly climbed the culinary rankings. After completing his culinary studies in Toronto and Israel, he successfully turned his passion into a career, becoming an executive chef at an early age and opening his first restaurant at the young age of 22. Dave’s resume includes some of the top restaurants and catering firms in Tel Aviv, New York and Toronto. With over 20 years of experience in Japanese, Middle Eastern and French cuisines, Dave became a private chef and started By Dave, showcasing his culinary skills with the level of care and passion that his clients demand. His focus is on local, seasonally-inspired menus, treating each ingredient with the care that it deserves, creating dishes with true “wow factor.” There is no dish that Dave can’t tackle. He has delivered and executed 10-course tasting menus, Mexican-themed fiestas, parties big (think 500 people!) and small (due to the pandemic) and everything in between. With COVID-19, he has adapted to bring the elegance of a dining experience into one’s home. According to Dave, he hasn’t worked a day in his life. Today, Dave’s toughest critics are his wife and three beautiful daughters. Dave can be contacted on Instagram @eatbydave or through his website bydave.ca.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

ADD BEEF CHEEKS TO YOUR FOLD. Birria Tacos Serves: 4-8

By: Naphtali Sobel

These Mexican street tacos are extremely popular in food vendor stalls and food trucks in Mexico, Los Angeles and New York. Traditionally made with choice cuts of lamb, beef or goat, the meat is stewed in a sweet and savory sauce for hours and achieves the ultimate tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture. It is then shredded, stuffed into tacos, dipped into meat jus, topped with traditional fresh condiments and served with more meat jus on the side. This dish can be made with any cut that braises well, making it a perfect option for beef cheek. N OT E S :

• Dried chilis can be purchased in any Mexican market or the ethnic aisle at your local supermarket. Most pure, whole spices don’t require a kosher certification. • If you can’t find beef cheek, kolichel or deckle work well too. 6 Naphtali Sobel began his culinary journey in summer camps 15+ years ago, where he eventually became Executive Chef in a camp, serving 1,400 campers and staff members daily. He used that experience to catapult himself into some of the top kosher catering companies and Passover programs and worked as a food writer for a local publication as well. Naphtali is currently working as a private chef and culinary consultant in the greater New York area and still does occasional catering events to stay current. His reputation as a “yes man” makes him a most successful private chef. With a global approach, Naphtali has succeeded in giving his clients unique, internationally-inspired menus. His culinary knowledge comes from not only years of experience, but hours of nonstop, hands-on research, taking the best techniques and perfecting them. He is committed to constantly learning, practicing and growing in his craft. Naphtali is a co-founder of the Kosher Chef Alliance, a data network for sharing ideas and trade support to fellow colleagues. He can be contacted on Instagram @naphtalisobel.

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dried chilis (a combination of ancho, guajillo and pasilla) 2 cups hot water 2 pounds beef cheeks 2-3 marrow bones 10 cloves garlic 2 plum tomatoes, diced 1 large onion, cubed 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon cumin 1 tablespoon chipotle powder 1 tablespoon oregano 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 tablespoon annatto powder (such as Badia) 12-16 (4-inch) corn tortillas Avocado Salsa, for serving (recipe follows) Chopped onion, for serving

Fresh cilantro, for serving

1. Steep dried chilis in hot water and cover with plastic wrap. Let sit for 15 minutes until softened, then add all to a blender and purée until smooth. 2. Pour purée into a large pot with beef cheeks, marrow bones, garlic, tomatoes, onions, apple cider vinegar, spices and 16 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, for 3½-4 hours. Alternatively, cook in a 300°F oven for 5 hours. 3. Strain meat and let liquid reduce, uncovered, over high heat by about one-third. Skim fat and reserve. The corn tortillas are traditionally dipped into the fat and toasted in a pan, leaving the tortilla very red. 4. Take meat out and finely chop or shred. Serve on corn tortillas and top with Avocado Salsa, chopped onions and fresh cilantro. Serve the broth (aka consommé) alongside as a soup or dip for the taco. E L E VAT E I T: Fill taco with meat and fold in half. Heat some oil or reserved fat in a sauté pan over medium heat and fry tacos for 3

minutes per side until crispy.

Charred Avocado Salsa Yield: 1 cup

1 avocado 2 plum tomatoes 1 small onion 2 jalapeños 2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Juice of 1 lime

1. Working in batches, use metal tongs to carefully hold avocado, tomatoes, onion and jalapeños over an open flame until lightly charred. Alternatively, place on a baking sheet on the top rack of the oven and broil on high for 4 minutes, flipping halfway through. 2. Purée with the remaining ingredients until smooth using a food processor, blender or immersion blender.

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TURN THE OTHER CHEEK. YOU’LL LIKE IT. Mushroom Duxelles Beef Cheek

develops. Add the mushroom mixture and remaining wine. Bring to a boil to allow the wine to reduce slightly.

Serves: 2-4

4. Cover and cook in the oven for 5 hours, until fork tender. Alternatively, set a sous vide to 165°F and transfer beef cheek and mushroom mixture to a sous vide bag. Cook for at least 12 hours. Serve with Garlic Confit Sweet Potato Mash.

By: Yosef Schwartz

After a long braise, the mushrooms in this dish develop the most delicious savory flavor. It’s a perfect thing to make in the sous vide on Friday for lunch on Shabbos. N OT E : Umami seasoning blend is a spice blend unlike any other. It can easily be sourced from Target (Good & Gather brand) or Trader Joe’s. Both are certified kosher by OU. Alternatively, you can make your own using ground dried mushrooms and a bit of kosher salt instead.

2 2

¼ 1 12 2 1 ½

pounds beef cheek teaspoons umami seasoning (see note) cup grapeseed oil, divided onion, diced ounces mushrooms, diced sprigs fresh thyme teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup white wine, divided Garlic Confit Sweet Potato Mash, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Season beef cheek on all sides with umami seasoning and set aside. 2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add mushrooms, thyme, salt and pepper. Sauté for another minute, then add 2 tablespoons of wine. Cook for 5 minutes, until the liquid has mostly evaporated. Transfer to a plate. 3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the pot and sear beef cheeks for 4 minutes per side, until a golden crust

Garlic Confit Sweet Potato Mash There is something showstopping about serving a purple mash, but feel free to use sweet potatoes or yams. Bring a pot of water to boil with 1½ pounds peeled purple sweet potatoes. Lower heat to a simmer and cook, covered, for about 25 minutes, until fork tender. Strain and transfer to a blender. Add 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter, ¼ cup garlic confit (recipe follows), 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Blend until smooth. Serve warm. VARIATION: Preheat oven to 400°F. Spread sweet potato mash over a sheet of puff pastry. Strain beef cheeks from gravy, shred and place on top of sweet potato mash and top with some of the mushroom mixture. Seal tightly, then brush with egg wash and cook until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Serve with strained gravy.

Garlic Confit Add 1 cup peeled garlic cloves and 1 cup olive oil to a small saucepan over medium heat. Once simmering, reduce heat to low and cook until garlic is tender.

Chef Yosef Schwartz is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu and is currently a high-end private chef based in Miami, Florida. Yos specializes in both small and largescale events showcasing unique and elaborate kosher fine dining, from a romantic dinner for two or an intimate party of 24 to a destination wedding weekend for 250. He has also taken part in various pop-up restaurants in cool venues around Miami under his brand, Hassid+Hipster. Yosef can be contacted on Instagram @chefyos or via email hassidhipstermiami@gmail.com.

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B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z R E C I P E S B Y: A H U VA S C H WA R T Z

SHABBOS FEAST

Ahuva Schwartz grew up in Monsey, NY, with a fervent love for the State of Israel and knew she would eventually make Aliyah. 28

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SHABBOS FEAST

IN AUGUST 2011 , Ahuva took a job at a seminary in Jerusalem, then finalized her Aliyah the following year, joining a Nefesh B’Nefesh charter flight with her brother, sister-in-law and nephews. “The moment we touched down, the entire flight broke out in cheer,” Ahuva recalls. Ahuva moved to Katamon, a small neighborhood in Jerusalem, and began her blog, The Katamon Kitchen, which came as no surprise to anyone who knew her passion for cooking, having spent time in the kitchen with her mother from a young age. Throughout high school and into her year in seminary, Ahuva made and sold dinner to her fellow students and often took charge of the cooking for various events. Ahuva acclimated to her new life in Israel and continued holding various positions at the seminary. Simultaneously, she was doing small-scale catering and, through word-ofmouth and Instagram, The Katamon Kitchen took off. Always striving to learn and grow, in early 2017, having no prior restaurant experience, Ahuva was hired as a line cook at Crave, a popular meat restaurant in Machane Yehuda market. She began working the dinner shift after finishing her day job and somehow found the time to develop recipes and keep up her blog in between. After a week working the fryers at Crave, Ahuva quickly moved on to the flat top and also mastered expediting, a key position in a restaurant. After two years at Crave, Ahuva moved on to Al Dente, a dairy restaurant, where she learned techniques and skills for making pizza and pasta from scratch. Ahuva said, “When the chef asked

me why I cook, I said simply that it was to make people happy.” Those were the magic words that got her the job. Ahuva left the restaurant in December 2019 to focus on growing her business and has had Shabbat orders, which she dubbed #shabbattogo, every week since. Soon came #dinnerinabag, geared toward tourists, new parents, loved ones or anyone who just wants a Shabbos or night off. Ahuva provides everything from challah, dips, appetizers, soups, salads, sides, mains and desserts and accommodates allergies, dietary restrictions and custom requests. She has also become known for the wholesome recipes she develops for her blog, like “Muffin Mondays,” and sharing the perks of living in the center of Jerusalem, like in-depth tours of the shuk via Instagram stories, taking her followers on much needed adventures when visiting her beloved country simply isn’t a reality. COVID-19 has brought on something unprecedented — cooking for those in quarantine. Tourists given clearance to visit Israel (or locals who traveled abroad and back) have to quarantine, propelling a somewhat unexpected category for Ahuva’s services. She also used to do in-person cooking demos in Jerusalem, which soon became cooking classes anywhere in the world via Zoom, something that she could have never expected. The combination of Ahuva’s down-home upbringing and her professional experience is truly displayed in the food and service she delivers. Ahuva can be contacted on Instagram @thekatamonkitchen or via email thekatamonkitchen@gmail.com. Check out her blog thekatamonkitchen.blogspot.com.

Elisheva Taitz is a wife and mother to three children, full-time Payroll/HR Manager by day, food writer, recipe developer and Fleishigs editor by night. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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SHABBOS FEAST

Ahuva’s Cooking Tips Always make sure to read the recipe in its entirety — including the directions and any relevant notes. It’s important to have your equipment and ingredients prepared. In the restaurant we always make sure that all cooking equipment is heated to the right temperature and that we are fully stocked and prepared for service. It’s the same in the home kitchen — you want your oven to be waiting for you, not the other way around. For my Shabbat catering I always make sure that everything is ready to go; I have a list of what needs to be made on the stovetop and what goes in the oven and in which order. This helps make the process more efficient.

Moroccan Fish Rainbow Quinoa

Make sure you are working with sharp knives, which are far less dangerous than dull ones. If you’re slicing a vegetable with a dull knife, rather than cutting through the vegetable, it could slip and slice your finger. Salt is crucial for bringing out food’s natural flavors, so season as you go to build flavor. Don’t leave salt out of a recipe, especially in baking! Another key ingredient is acid, which wakes up the palate and brightens everything up. A sprinkling of flaky salt and/or a squeeze of lemon will elevate any dish.

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SHABBOS FEAST

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SHABBOS FEAST

Jalapeño Dip

A’

S TIP

Jala Yalla.

When I make Moroccan salmon for Shabbat orders, I cook it in individual tins in the oven, which clears up my stovetop. Follow the directions to make the sauce on the stove, then pour half of the sauce into a 9x13-inch pan. Add the fish in a single layer, then top with the rest of the sauce. Cover tightly with foil and cook in a 375°F oven for 20-25 minutes. Top with fresh herbs. 32

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Moroccan Fish Serves: 6

The aromatic, savory Moroccan-spiced tomato sauce can be used to impart flavor on any fish you have on hand — halibut, sea bass, cod, salmon and tilapia all work, which makes this recipe extremely versatile. Smoked paprika really does a lot to this dish and is a valuable spice to add to your pantry. 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 ½ ½ 1 2 ½ 1½ ¼

tablespoons olive oil small onion, thinly sliced bell pepper, thinly sliced jalapeño, sliced into rings (remove seeds for more mild flavor) teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste cloves garlic, minced tablespoon paprika teaspoon smoked paprika teaspoon cumin large tomato or ½ cup cherry tomatoes, diced tablespoons tomato paste Juice of ½ lemon (about 2 tablespoons) cup canned chickpeas pounds fish of choice, cut into 6 even pieces cup fresh parsley or cilantro, chopped Couscous or rice, for serving

1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add sliced onions, bell peppers and jalapeños and sauté for 5 minutes, until vegetables are slightly softened. Season with salt, then add garlic, paprika, smoked paprika and cumin; sauté until garlic is fragrant and spices are toasted. 2. Add diced tomatoes and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup water to deglaze the pan, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add lemon juice, chickpeas and additional salt to taste. 3. Nestle fish into the sauce so that the tops are just peeking out. Spoon some sauce over each fillet. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan and cook for 20-25 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through. Sprinkle with fresh herbs and enjoy over couscous, rice or with plenty of fresh challah to mop up all that sauce.

Jalapeño Dip Yield: ¾ cup

2 ½ 1 1 ½

jalapeños, stems removed (remove seeds too for more mild flavor) cup mayonnaise tablespoon lemon juice teaspoon sugar teaspoon kosher salt Handful of fresh dill

Purée all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender until smooth. JANUARY 2021

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Sweet and Sticky Roast Chicken

Rainbow Quinoa

Serves: 4

Serves: 6-8

This is the perfect crowd-pleaser chicken dish that balances both sweet and savory flavors. It can easily be doubled or even tripled. (Plus, it freezes well!)

This quinoa salad is so versatile and you can add any protein for a complete meal — chickpeas, feta or grilled chicken all work well.

1 4

½ ½ ½ 3 3 3

large onion, thinly sliced bone-in, skin-on chicken bottoms, split into leg and thigh teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup apricot jam tablespoons ketchup tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons brown sugar, silan or maple syrup tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Scatter the onions in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Top with chicken, then season with salt and pepper. 2. Combine apricot jam, ketchup, soy sauce, brown sugar and balsamic vinegar and pour over the chicken. Cook for 1 hour, basting halfway through. Baste again before serving.

Note: To mellow out the sharp flavor of raw onion, soak in ice water for 10 minutes. Alternatively, use red onion for a milder flavor — and more color! 1½ 2¾ 1 1 1 1 ½ ½ 3 3

cups quinoa, rinsed cups water teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon olive oil carrot, diced small onion, diced yellow pepper, diced red pepper, diced tablespoons olive oil Zest and juice of ½ lemon tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 ½ ¼ ¼

tablespoon chopped fresh dill clove garlic, minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon cumin

1. Add rinsed quinoa, water, salt and olive oil to a medium pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover pot and cook for 15 minutes, then turn off heat and let quinoa sit covered for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and transfer to a bowl to cool. 2. Once the quinoa is cool, add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

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Sesame Carrots Serves: 6

If you've been following me on Instagram, you know how much I love techina, but I didn't actually eat it until I moved to Israel. When I lived in America my only association was the watery stuff in the squeeze bottle at the falafel and pizza place. When I moved to Israel, one of my closest friends convinced me that techina is not just for falafel and this changed my life for the better! I now drizzle it on everything. Many view techina as exclusive to Israeli/Mediterranean cuisine. However, it’s actually just pure ground sesame seeds, an ingredient that is key in Asian cooking, so it makes a perfect accompaniment to any Asian-inspired dish. ¼ 3 1 1 ½-1 1 ½ 1

cup pure tahini paste tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon silan teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon Sriracha teaspoon rice vinegar teaspoon orange zest (1-inch) knob of ginger, peeled and grated 1 clove garlic, grated 1 scallion 6-8 medium carrots, peeled 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, for garnish 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Combine tahini, soy sauce, silan, sesame oil, Sriracha, vinegar, orange zest, ginger and garlic. Slice the dark green parts off the scallion and reserve for garnish. Finely chop the white and light green parts and add to the tahini mixture. 3. Slice the carrots in half horizontally, then cut vertically and then again to create thick matchsticks. Toss in the tahini mixture until well coated. Arrange in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet and roast for 20-25 minutes. 4. Place carrots on a platter and garnish with toasted sesame seeds and remaining scallions, sliced on the bias.

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O M

AT TE O R H W GO

YO U

T H I N K Y O U A R E AT K U G E LA CH, YO U W O

N’ T

BE AT TH

IS O

E .

Perfect Potato Kugel There's nothing tastier than a piping hot potato kugel fresh from the oven — with its golden brown top, crispy edges and a mouthwatering aroma that wafts through the whole house, it simply won’t make it to the table. Note: To make sure you have the right amount of potatoes, place the whole potatoes into a 9x13-inch baking dish; I prefer glass, but any pan will work. The potatoes should fill the pan in a single layer.

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¼ cup vegetable oil 6 eggs 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6-8 potatoes, peeled and grated 1 large onion, grated 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with non-stick cooking spray. Pour in the oil and place in the oven.

onions and stir to combine. 3. Carefully remove the pan from the oven and pour the hot oil into the potato mixture and stir to combine. Pour the potato mixture into the hot pan. Smooth out the top and return to the oven. Cook for 1-1½ hours until golden brown.

2. In a large bowl, whisk eggs with salt and pepper. Add grated potatoes and

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Parsley Pesto Serves: 6

Parsley is a great stand-in for basil in pesto, especially during the winter months when basil may not be as readily available in many regions. Pesto is an extremely versatile condiment to have around and can be used as a marinade for any protein, including chicken, meat, fish and tofu. N OT E S :

• Pesto can be made ahead of time and stored in an airtight container or jar in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. It also freezes great. Just pour it into ice cube trays, freeze, then pop the cubes into a Ziploc bag and keep it in the freezer so you always have some on hand. • If you don't have a food processor, this sauce can be made using an immersion blender. Just be sure to finely mince the garlic and parsley by hand, then combine with lemon zest, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Slowly stream in the olive oil and blend until combined. Alternatively, make the pesto by hand. It will be looser, but delicious nonetheless. 4 2 1½ ½ ½

cloves garlic, crushed cups fresh torn parsley, thick stems removed Zest and juice of 1 lemon teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup olive oil

1. Add garlic to a food processor fitted with an S-blade and pulse until minced. Add parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pulse until everything is finely chopped. 2. With the machine running, slowly stream in the olive oil through the feed tube. Check for seasoning and adjust if necessary. TO M A K E P E STO G R I L L E D C H I C K E N :

Place chicken in a Ziploc bag with some pesto. Seal the bag, removing any excess air, and spread the sauce around so it fully coats the chicken. • For boneless, skinless chicken breast: Marinate for 30 minutes, up to 2 hours. Heat a grill to medium and grill for 2-4 minutes per side, depending on thickness. • For bone-in or boneless, skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot): Marinate for 2 hours, up to overnight. For pargiyot, grill on medium for 5-7 minutes, depending on thickness. If you don’t have a grill, place on a baking sheet and cook in a 425°F oven until cooked through.

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Apple Cider Muffins Yield: 12 muffins or 24 mini muffins

The warm flavors of cinnamon, nutmeg and apple cider make this a favorite muffin this time of year. It’s perfect with a cup of coffee or tea for breakfast or served for dessert with a scoop of ice cream and caramel drizzle. 2½ 2 1¼ ¾ ½

cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated ¼ teaspoon baking soda ½ cup sugar ½ cup oil 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup apple cider or apple juice C I N N A M O N SU GA R TO P P I N G

⅓ ¼

cup sugar teaspoon cinnamon Non-stick cooking spray or ¼ cup oil or melted non-dairy butter substitute

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan with non-stick cooking spray. 2. Combine flour, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg and baking soda. Add sugar, oil, eggs, vanilla and apple cider. Mix until just combined and smooth. Scoop into the prepared muffin pan. Bake for 15-18 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 3. While the muffins are baking, combine cinnamon and sugar. Once cool enough to handle, but still warm, transfer muffins to a large bowl or 2-gallon Ziploc bag. Spray muffins with non-stick cooking spray or drizzle with oil or butter. Immediately sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and toss to coat.

Mini cake muffins, brushed with oil and doused in a cinnamon sugar mixture, mimics the flavor and texture of doughnut holes, without having to purchase any special equipment. Just use a mini muffin tin for a fun, family-friendly treat that is super easy to make. Don’t use liners for these muffins as they get fully coated in a cinnamon-sugar mixture once baked. You can pipe jam in the center of the mini muffins to further enhance that donut vibe.

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MAK E IT A CA KE 1. Prepare batter as instructed. 2. Preheat oven to 375Â°F. Grease a 9-inch round pan with 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute and 2 tablespoons cinnamon sugar mixture. 3. Thinly slice 3 Golden Delicious apples and arrange in concentric circles on top of cinnamon sugar mixture. 4. Pour cake batter over apples. Dust with remaining cinnamon sugar. 5. Bake for 40-45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 6. Allow to cool for 10-15 minutes and invert onto a cake platter.

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Y O S S I

SHABBOS WINE

L'CHAIM

P E R F E C T P OTATO KUGEL

S E S A M E C A R R OT S

MISO-GLAZED BROWNIES

W I N E . S H A B B O S S O M E Y O U

SWEET AND STICKY R OA S T C H I C K E N

Y O M

S H A B B O S

M E N U C H A

C O U N T R Y

Friday Night

DESSERT

Hagafen Cabernet Franc 2018 is a medium-bodied red with great berry notes and soft tannins that would work wonderfully with this meal.

Teperberg Essence Fortesse 2018 is a very well-made Port-style wine that would pair well with chocolate.

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W I T H S H A R E W I L L I A N D D I V I N E A N D H O L Y S O C U P , B R I M M I N G A M E P O U R

WHITE Carmel Appellation Gewürztraminer 2018 is a delightful, off-dry white wine with great aromatics. The acidity pairs well with the slightly sweet roast chicken dish and cuts through the kugel as well.

T H E

RED

S W E E T E S T

D R I N K

K N O W ,

M E ’ E I N

O L A M

H A B A ,

T H E

W I N E

O N

F R I D A Y

N I G H T ,

BY: GA B R I E L G E L L E R

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L'CHAIM

When choosing wines for Shabbos, there are several approaches. Most people will open whichever wine they picked up while shopping and some will open the wine brought by guests. My wife and I, however, enjoy pairing our wine to the food being served. Many people have the custom to eat the same dishes almost every week. We, on the other hand, like to vary, so depending on our mood and the food, we pick wines that we believe will pair best with each meal. On average, we open between two to three different wines at each Shabbos meal (although rarely for Seudat Shlishit). One white, rosé or sparkling wine for kiddush and appetizers and dips, then usually a red for the main course (unless the dish requires a different type of wine). Finally, a dessert wine to go with the dessert course, of course!

Shabbos Lunch

MOROCCAN FISH

JALAPEÑO DIP

R A I N B O W Q U I N OA SALAD

APPLE CIDER CAKE

Here is a proposed menu based on dishes within this issue, along with wine pairings for each meal. RED

W H I T E O R S PA R K L I N G

DESSERT

Moroccan fish is one of few fish dishes that pairs well with some red wines, such as the Segal Whole Cluster Syrah 2018, which has enough restrain and spicy, peppery notes to accompany the fish without overpowering it.

Matar Blanc de Noir is a Champagne-method sparkling wine from Israel, a fantastic choice for a more classic pairing.

An apple cider cake would be tremendously enhanced if enjoyed alongside a glass of Château Guiraud Sauternes 2017, one of the most sumptuous dessert wines.

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BY: SHIFRA KLEIN R E C I P E S B Y: C H E F AV N E R G U Z M A N

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CULINARY SCHOOL

AVNER GUZMAN IS a classically-trained French chef with an auspicious career. He graduated from Le Cordon Bleu and has since worked in various (even Michelinstarred) restaurants. On his journey to becoming more observant, he started to dedicate his talented voice to the kosher market. Shlomo and I personally witnessed Avner’s influence in the Parisian food scene during our trip to Paris in February 2020 (pre-COVID), where he took us on an epic food crawl. The warm welcome he received at Le Cordon Bleu was sign enough of his standing in the culinary world. Today, Avner is a private chef who travels the world cooking for various clients. He offers kosher cooking classes and food tours in Paris and consults for restaurants worldwide. I caught up with Avner in early November, when the United States was in a standstill about the election results and France was on official lockdown due to COVID-19. I had initially intended for Avner to share a composed menu, something he would serve at an upscale private dinner, but Avner quickly steered me in a much more practical and inspirational direction that turned out to be like the ultimate culinary school crash course.

Avner Guzman can be contacted on Instagram @guzmannerwin.

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Lesson 1 Technique The key to being a great cook and developing independence in the kitchen is all about technique. Knowing the background information — having the understanding of how and why a recipe works — allows you to be the ultimate cook. Once you master a technique, you can constantly create and adapt with the ingredients you have. Chef Avner explains how seasoned cooks spend the time to understand the process. “If you go to Le Cordon Bleu and give each student the same ingredients and instructions, the results will be different for each person. Everyone has their own way of interpreting technique,” he shares. “When I teach a technique, I expect students to have an understanding of the ingredients and that allows them to go on and create their own recipes independently.” Poached eggs is the perfect example of this. There is a basic technique that, once mastered, can be served in a multitude of creative ways for memorable, delicious and impressive dishes.

Perfect Poached Eggs

Tomato Tartare

Chef Avner’s Notes:

Serves: 4

I like to poach eggs 10 at a time in a large, wide pot — some may not survive, but that’s okay. It takes practice.

This is Chef Avner’s favorite dish to serve with poached eggs during tomato season, so hang on to this one — you won’t regret it! For an elegant presentation to mimic tuna tartare, pack into a ring mold.

Many chefs teach that you have to create a vortex and a swirl effect in the water as the eggs poach. I have found this to be an unnecessary step that doesn’t accomplish much. If your water is boiling and you have enough vinegar and space for the eggs to poach, you will have perfectly poached eggs.

Organic eggs 3 tablespoons vinegar

1. Bring a pot with 6 cups of water to a rolling boil. Line a baking sheet with a kitchen towel or paper towels. 2. Crack eggs into individual cups or ramekins. 3. Once water is boiling, add vinegar and let boil for 1 minute. Slowly drop the eggs into the water one at a time. Let cook for 4-5 minutes, until whites are set, but centers are still runny.

2 1 ¼ ¼ 1 1 1 ¼ ¼

large ripe tomatoes, finely diced shallot, finely diced cup fresh basil, finely chopped cup fresh parsley, finely chopped tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon balsamic vinegar teaspoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Perfect Poached eggs Parsley Panko, for serving (recipe follows) Red Pepper Panko, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Toss tomatoes, shallots and herbs. 2. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pour over tomato tartare and toss to combine. Serve with poached eggs and top with Parsley Panko and/or Red Pepper Panko.

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Mushroom Velouté Lesson 2 Quality Matters On the topic of eggs, Chef Avner is highly passionate about the quality of ingredients. Some think an egg is an egg, but high-quality, organic or pasture-raised eggs make a HUGE difference, even in baking. The higher the quality of ingredients, the more successful the results.

Lesson 3 Understanding Flavors Once you have an understanding of basic techniques and you utilize the best quality ingredients you can access (especially for the main component of your dish), it’s time to put together the flavors that work for your dish and your personal preference. To continue with the poached egg example, what will bring its creamy, fatty yolk to life? Chef Avner suggests something light and crunchy to complement the flavors and textures of the poached egg, like crispy parsley panko breadcrumbs or toasted croutons. You can go as far as battering your egg and deep frying if you are inclined to do so. A dish that satisfies all the taste and textural elements makes for an ideal eating experience. A dish also can always benefit from a combination of some of the key flavor profiles — acid, sweet, bitter, fat, savory/umami. Beyond flavor profiles, Chef Avner recommends thinking about seasonality as well. For the poached egg dish, for instance, during the winter or early spring months, a mushroom velouté with roasted mushrooms would be the ideal complement (as featured in the Pesach 2020 issue). During the summer and early fall months, a tomato tartare, full of plenty of acid and herbs, is the perfect accompaniment to the poached egg.

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Serves: 4

This velouté was originally published in the Pesach 2020 issue (#16), just in time for spring, and was accompanied by Chef Avner’s poached eggs that he cooked in the sous vide at 148°F for 1 hour. ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 6 shallots, diced 2 (8-ounce) packages assorted mushrooms 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided, plus more to taste 1-1½ cups non-dairy milk 1 (3-ounce) package enoki mushrooms 3 tablespoons potato starch Assortment of raw radishes and beets, for serving Sous vide or poached eggs Fresh parsley or dill, leaves only, for garnish

3. Lightly dust enoki mushrooms in potato starch and fry until golden. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and immediately season with remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. 4. Thinly slice beets and radishes on a mandoline. For an elegant presentation, use metal piping tips to cut circles out of the vegetables. 5. Divide the veloute into bowls and place an egg in the center. Arrange the raw vegetables, fried garlic slices and fried enoki mushrooms around the egg. Garnish with fresh herbs.

1. Heat ¼ cup oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and fry until golden brown and crispy. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, shallots and mushrooms and sauté until softened and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. 2. Transfer to a high-powered blender with 1 cup non-dairy milk and blend until creamy and silky smooth. Add up to another ½ cup milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired consistency is reached. Season to taste, if necessary. Set aside.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Lesson 4 Salad Making a salad is actually the best example for showcasing the above lessons. While it seems like the easiest task, creating a balanced salad is actually one of the most difficult techniques to master. To get the most out of all of the ingredients, choose ones that are high-quality and in season. Start with a base of greens, then add vegetables of varying textures and flavors, from sweet to bitter. Think of the balance that makes a Caesar salad so amazing. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a crisp bite from the lettuce, an umami saltiness from Parmesan, crunchy texture from the croutons and creaminess from the dressing. When composing a salad, remember that we eat with our eyes, so put vegetables together that have visual appeal. Finally, choose a vinaigrette or dressing that balances the flavors and brings everything together.

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Seared Endive Citrus Salad

Parsley Panko

Serves: 6

Yield: 2¼ cups

Citrus, which is in season in the winter

1 2

across Europe and the United States, is a great accompaniment to a salad. It can be segmented and tossed with greens or its juice can be added to vinaigrette for a pop of acidity. Or do both for a full citrus experience! To serve as an appetizer, place one endive leaf on a plate and lean a second endive leaf against it. Top with citrus segments and vinaigrette. Garnish with chives and chopped hazelnuts. Make it a main course by adding crumbled feta (vegan or dairy), shredded chicken or roasted salmon. Feel

cup fresh parsley cups panko breadcrumbs tablespoon olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Blend parsley in a high-powered blender until smooth. Toss with panko and oil. 2. Spread on a baking sheet pan and cook for 1 hour. 3. Remove from the oven and let cool. Store in an airtight container in the fridge until ready to use.

free to bulk it up with greens, such as arugula or baby kale.

tablespoon canola oil

whole endives, halved

oranges, segmented

grapefruit, segmented

Grapefruit Aioli (recipe follows)

Red Pepper Panko

bunch chives, chopped

Yield: 2¼ cups

cup fresh cilantro leaves

cup toasted hazelnuts, chopped

1. Heat oil in a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Sear endive halves until golden brown. 2. Arrange on a plate, then top with citrus segments. Drizzle with vinaigrette, then top with chopped chives, cilantro and hazelnuts.

Grapefruit Aioli Place 1 pasteurized egg, 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard and the zest of 1 grapefruit in the bowl of a food

2 1

large or 2 small red peppers, roughly chopped cups panko breadcrumbs tablespoon oil

1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Blend red peppers until puréed. Strain so only juice remains. Toss juice with panko and oil. 2. Spread on a baking sheet and cook for 1 hour. 3. Remove from the oven and let cool. Store in an airtight container in the fridge until ready to use.

processor. Alternatively, use an immersion blender. With the motor running, stream in ½ cup canola or grapeseed oil until thick and fully emulsified. Add in 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed grapefruit juice, 1 teaspoon sugar (optional), ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Blend for a few seconds until just incorporated. Use immediately.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Lesson 5 Creativity Once the above lessons are taken into consideration — you have mastered technique and understand the importance of quality ingredients and flavor profiles — you can then branch out and be creative in the kitchen, independent of cookbooks and recipes. If a recipe calls for chicken, and you understand the technique of cook times, you can substitute almost any protein, creating an entirely new dish. If a recipe calls for romaine, but all you have on hand is kale, as long as you understand how to treat that green, you can adapt without feeling the need to run to the grocery store. If all you have is balsamic for a recipe that calls for red wine vinegar, don’t sweat it. Being creative means not being so rigid and dependent on the confines of recipes. If a vinaigrette seems too salty, use less salt next time. If it’s not seasoned enough, use more. Trial and error is also an important skill to master! With a pool of techniques under your belt, you can start branching out and being creative.

S E E PAG E 1 3 0 F O R H O W TO B E C R E AT I V E W I T H T H I S U N I Q U E I N G R E D I E N T.

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SEASONAL

BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: MOSHE WENDEL

Many kosher restaurants have come and gone, but there are few that evoke as much nostalgia as Pardes. The now-closed progressive Frenchinspired bistro, featuring a constantly changing seasonal menu and a relaxed, rustic atmosphere, was the brainchild of Chef Moshe Wendel, perhaps one of the most innovative kosher chefs in the world.

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SEASONAL

After graduating from a culinary apprenticeship program in Pennsylvania at the start of his career, Wendel traveled to the south of France, where he spent time cooking and learning authentic French cuisine and honing his culinary skills, before returning to the Philadelphia area and making his way up to executive chef at some of the most prestigious non-kosher restaurants in the area. At 28, Wendel found himself returning to his roots and making the difficult decision to become fully kosher-observant, eventually leaving his position and making the move to the New York City area. 60

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During Wendel’s first stint at a kosher restaurant in New Jersey, he learned how to work with kosher meat and adapt the culinary training he had for the kosher consumer and quickly began to garner some attention. Soon after, he teamed up with a few partners to create the first-of-its-kind Basil Pizza & Wine Bar in Brooklyn and threw himself into the process of crafting the concept, design and menu. It wasn’t long before Wendel felt the itch to create something new — this time a solo project he could go all in on. The now-revered Pardes opened its doors in 2012 and immediately began shattering the expectations of anyone who thought they knew what to expect from kosher dining. Seemingly simple dishes like a tempura kale salad were elevated with advanced culinary techniques (in this case a shower of “sesame snow” that diners described as “melt-in-yourmouth delicious”). With an ever-evolving menu showcasing Chef Wendel’s fusion of classical French training with modern and eclectic influences, diners

never knew what to expect, only that a trip to Pardes meant an adventure in new flavors, textures and combinations. After six years of blood, sweat, tears and overwhelmingly rave reviews, Chef Wendel was ready to take a step back from the kitchen and sold the popular restaurant. He quickly jumped on to his next project, a short-lived barbecue joint in Monsey, NY. “It was a cool concept, but people weren’t ready for it and it just didn’t pan out the way we hoped,” he reflects. Working hands-on with the permits, construction and logistics aspects of the business reignited Wendel’s passion for creating something new. “Every experience I’ve had has been a huge learning opportunity,” says Wendel. “When something fails, it’s a crushing feeling at first and you wonder why you had to go through that. It’s only later that you realize that you needed that experience to grow.” That knowledge proved to be instrumental in the founding of Wendel’s largest project to date. Patis is an artisan bakery located in New Jersey, www.fleishigs.com

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specializing in European and American pastry, with multiple satellite locations in NYC and Brooklyn. The gut renovation of the massive Lyndhurst, NJ space gave Wendel an opportunity to flex his logistics skills, along with hands-on involvement in every detail from perfecting the croissants to nailing the takeout packaging. At the same time, he began to delegate the jobs that were less fulfilling to him, including hiring a social media manager, which he described as taking a huge burden off his shoulders. “At Pardes, I was always trying something new, with new ingredients, which was exciting,” comments Wendel. “But that also meant I didn’t have the opportunity to refine my technique in any particular dish. I’ve now come to appreciate the satisfaction in working with the same simple ingredients day after day. There’s a different kind of beauty in waking up before dawn every morning, constantly honing your skills to make sure those croissants come out perfect every time.” Recently, Wendel has moved on from his partnership with Patis, ready for the next chapter in his culinary journey, but he admits that he is not the same person he once was. After embarking on a mostly vegetarian diet, taking time to exercise regularly and losing 100 pounds a

few years ago, he now realizes that culinary aspirations are only one component of a healthy lifestyle. “When I was younger, I was brainwashed into thinking that you need to work 18-hour days, until you can barely stand on your own two feet. A marker of success was not being able to sustain a relationship outside of work,” says Wendel. “I don’t believe in that toxic message anymore — it’s not the kind of chef I want to be and it’s not the message I want to teach the next generation.” After taking the time to focus on his physical and mental health, Wendel says he feels younger and better than ever and his new philosophy has extended into the way he cooks as well. “I’ve learned to simplify the way I cook,” he adds. “I’m eating mostly vegetables, so I have learned to refine the way I cook with them. I used to look at a dish and think, ‘What can I add?’ but now, I’ll think about what I can remove.” Wendel still cooks for his loyal fans and customers, but primarily for private, small events, as well as short-term gigs like Pesach programs, which allows him to work as much as his newly-decluttered life allows, while still taking the time to go for a jog every

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morning. Private catering also gives him the opportunity to expand his horizons and dabble in different cuisines, giving clients a Pardes-like experience, but on his terms this time. “Every accomplished actor gets to the point when they want to get behind the camera and into the director’s chair,” says Wendel. “At Pardes, I was all in, but now I’m able to step back and see the bigger picture. I can be part of the recipe testing, figure out how much of the process I want to do myself and then train others to work with me.” With a dose of Wendel’s signature self-deprecating humor, he jokes that maybe he’s all out of new ideas, as he recreates a simplified version of his butternut squash soup with a smoky leek topping, an old Pardes staple. It may have been an old favorite, and yet somehow, this pared-down version has become emblematic of Wendel’s new philosophy on life and cooking — that sometimes, less is more. Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of 3, parttime program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook.

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Sweet Potato Soup

Corn Stock

Serves: 8-12

Yield: 4 cups

S H I F R A'S N OT E : When I reached out to Chef Moshe Wendel to share a recipe for our private chef issue, he debated between a few options, from very complex to somewhat complex, finally landing on this soup. He was focused on finding something interesting that was still approachable for the home cook. As it turns out, he chose one of our all-time favorite soups that we still remember from dining out at his beloved former Brooklyn restaurant, Pardes.

Add 5 cups of water to a pot with 4-5 ears of corn or 2 cups frozen corn, ¾ of a split vanilla bean and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. If using cobs, remove corn and vanilla bean from pot, slice the corn off the cob and place back into the pot. Purée using a high-powered blender or immersion blender. Strain stock until smooth.

This is obviously no ordinary sweet potato soup. What makes it unique is the simple techniques used to create layers of flavor. The secret stock, made from corn, is puréed with sweet potatoes that are roasted whole, a technique that deepens the natural sweetness of the sweet potatoes — an essential step. N OT E S :

• Simplify the recipe even further and use store bought vegetable broth instead of making homemade corn stock. • Chef Moshe suggests using frozen corn when fresh is not available, making the recipe accessible year round. Using frozen corn does not sacrifice flavor, as it’s frozen at the peak of freshness. • The leek-beef fry garnish is delicious and packed with flavor. We recommend doubling the garnish and topping everything from steak, roasted chicken, deli rolls and meat pizzas. 4 4 1-2 1 ½ 1

Leek-Beef Fry Topping 1 1 3 2-3 ¼ ¼

(4-ounce) package beef fry tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil cleaned leeks, white and pale green parts only tablespoons honey teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Place beef fry in a cold sauté pan over medium heat. Cook for 5-6 minutes, until beef fry is crisp, then remove from pan and set aside to cool. 2. Add olive oil and leeks to the same pan and sauté over medium heat, until leeks are lightly golden, about 8 minutes. 3. Chop beef fry and add to leeks. Stir in honey, salt and pepper. E L E VAT E I T: Cook a few extra strips of beef fry in the oven or in a pan and serve as an additional soup garnish.

medium sweet potatoes cups corn stock (recipe follows) or vegetable broth tablespoons honey teaspoon kosher salt cup full-fat coconut milk Leek-Beef Fry Topping (recipe follows) cup toasted chopped walnuts, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Arrange whole sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and roast for 40-45 minutes, until tender. 2. Once cool enough to handle, peel sweet potatoes and purée with corn stock, honey and salt in a high-powered blender until smooth. Working over a pot, strain soup using a fine mesh strainer, then add coconut milk. Reheat soup over a medium-high flame. 3. For a dramatic presentation, transfer soup to a teapot. Divide Leek-Beef Fry Topping and chopped walnuts in the center of the bowls, then pour soup around garnishes.

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BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: SRULI SUBAR

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“The first time I cooked for a client in Africa, we were camping on the safari in the middle of nowhere, with generators, a mobile kitchen and everything we would need to eat for the next few days,” recounts Sruli Subar, founder and owner of Subar & Co., a small catering company that specializes in private dining and special events.

late night snack for my client, I didn’t lock up the food tent properly, and as we were sleeping, the monkeys opened the tent and proceeded to eat every bit of produce that we had.” Subar and his team served foraged yucca soup with yucca chips and wild spinach that day, but he will never forget the experience. Just a few short years ago, kosher travel meant cans of tuna fish and cups of noodle soup, a tradeoff many were willing to make for the experience of seeing the world. With a new genre of traveling personal chefs like Sruli Subar, who has been to 71 countries and counting, clients can eat like they’re at a five-star restaurant, no “AFTER GRABBING A

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matter where on the planet their travels take them. Aside from Subar’s culinary expertise (he’s been in the food industry since the age of 15), clients rely on the traveling chef for his resourcefulness, logistical planning and extensive experience with sourcing kosher food around the globe. “Anticipate the obscure; expect the unexpected,” reads the mission statement on Subar’s website — something he has experienced time and time again. On one occasion, Subar was hired to cater a holiday vacation in Israel with little to no kitchen access, and after being assured that he would be able to import ready-made food, prepared 14 suitcases filled with

delicacies ready to serve at the holiday feasts. After all of his hard work was confiscated at the border, Subar was left to improvise, quickly connecting with industry contacts and vendors to get new ingredients, a rented kitchen and a local crew who could work through the night to have the food ready in time. On another occasion, a client made an unscheduled stop in Morocco and asked Subar, who had minimal food and equipment, if he could have a lavish lunch ready for that afternoon. By the time the client had finished enjoying the beautiful beaches of Morocco, Subar had kashered the restaurant kitchen of a local hotel, procured some local fish and produce and served the group a restaurantworthy spread. “I never say no to a client,” says Subar, who has been asked to achieve near impossible feats. “Sometimes that means bringing or procuring the right supplies, figuring out how to work with wide-ranging regulations in different countries or cooking over coal or firewood without any proper kitchen equipment.” Subar will do extensive research before traveling to a new location, and with so many years of experience, now has the knowledge and contacts needed to adapt easily in many foreign countries. “It’s not just the food,” he adds. “There are always a lot of logistics that you might not think of; if you’re planning an event, you have to think about bringing the tent, the heaters and the gas for the heaters, as well as the time it will take to set it all up. Other times, we need to work with companies to provide tables, chairs or even toilets!”

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AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 GRAZE

of kosher eating can sometimes make it hard to have a fully immersive cultural experience, Subar will go out of his way to include local cuisine whenever possible. Fresh fish, vegetables, fruits and herbs are always procured locally, giving travelers a taste of the best the country has to offer. Subar will often work together with local chefs to incorporate influences of their local culture into his menu. “We worked with a phenomenal chef in Sri Lanka, known locally as the curry master,” recalls Subar. “He took me out to the forest to forage curry leaves and then showed me how to use them. It was a whole new experience for me.” Sometimes, it’s not what you’re eating, but how you’re eating it. “In Ethiopia, for example, they’ll make a rich stew and then use their bread to mop up those incredible juices, instead of a spoon,” he adds. Although Subar’s cooking style is best described as a modernized fusion of cuisines, ultimately he says it comes down to putting thought and care into what the client will appreciate. Subar prides himself on his innate sense of anticipating his client’s needs, whether that means adapting a local dish to make it more palatable and visually appealing or packing extras to-go for day trips. His concierge services extend beyond the clients’ food needs as well — with a wealth of information, Subar can plan itineraries and activities almost anywhere. “I’ve been to Africa six times so far,” he explains. “At this point, I know where the animals will be based on the season and I know the best people to work ALTHOUGH THE LIMITATIONS

with as guides.” Although the genre of “kosher traveling chef” is relatively new, it’s one that is quickly expanding — something Subar sees as an asset, rather than competition. “The more people see that this is an option, the more we gain new clientele who are interested in these services,” says Subar, who often collaborates with other chefs in the industry, working together on projects or sharing contacts and information just to help each other out. As a kid who always wanted to cook and travel, Subar recognizes how incredibly lucky he is to have a career that he loves. “They say if you choose a job you love, you’ll never work a day in your life,” he says. “I do love it, but it’s still a ton of work, sometimes 18-20 hour days, which can be very mentally and physically exhausting sometimes. And yet, that work can be incredibly uplifting as well.” One of the most beautiful and memorable moments, Subar recalls, was the time he cooked for a group of 18 in Churchill, Canada, a northern town known as the polar bear capital of the world, only for his client to show up with 20 more guests — locals who had never experienced what it was like to be part of a Jewish community. Another time, Subar catered a historic Hachnasat Sefer Torah (dedication of a new Torah scroll) for 500 people in Oslo, Norway. “Every day on the job brings a new challenge,” concludes Subar, “but I feel very fortunate to travel the world and be able to give people a once-in-alifetime experience.”

Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of 3, parttime program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook.

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Salt-Baked Delicata Squash with Mayan Pumpkin Seed Salsa and Caramelized Honeycomb Serves: 4

This dish showcases how you can make a vegetable a main dish. The pumpkin seed salsa is unique, but also provides a wonderful source of protein. While this dish has three separate components, they can all be prepared in advance and the salsa and honeycomb take minutes to make, so don’t let that stop you from trying this incredible dish.

4 5 4 2

cups kosher salt egg whites sprigs fresh thyme, stripped delicata squashes, washed, split lengthwise and seeded cup assorted fresh herbs, chopped Caramelized Honeycomb (recipe follows) Mayan Pepita Salsa (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Combine salt, egg whites and thyme leaves, using your hands to incorporate the egg whites into the salt. 2. Spread half the salt mixture on the bottom of a baking sheet and arrange squash, cut side down, on top of it. Top with remaining salt and pack tightly. 3. Cook for 20 minutes. Let cool, then crack the crust and remove the squash, wiping away excess salt. Slice as desired. Heat grapeseed oil in a grill pan over medium-high heat and grill for 2-3 minutes per side. Serve with fresh herbs, honeycomb and salsa.

The delicata squash can be prepared without the salt crust. Slice in half lengthwise, then slice into semicircles and arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil and season with ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Roast in a 400°F oven for 30 minutes. Serve with salsa and honeycomb. To elevate it even further, serve with vegan feta (such as Violife) and fresh herbs. Can’t find honeycomb? While not the same, drizzle honey or silan over the completed dish for a pop of sweetness.

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Mayan Pepita Salsa Yield: 2½ cups

⅓ 1 1 4 ½ 1 1 ½ ¼ 1

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cup oil, plus more if needed cup chopped onion jalapeño, charred over an open flame cloves garlic, minced cup fire-roasted tomatoes cup cilantro cup parsley cup shelled pepitas, toasted cup + 1 tablespoon vinegar tablespoon honey Juice of ½ lemon

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1 ½

slightly chunky, adding some more teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black oil if needed. Combine with the rest pepper of the salsa.

1. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic and jalapeños and sauté until just translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add tomatoes and sauté for another minute. 2. Remove from heat and add herbs, pepitas, vinegar, honey, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Transfer half of the mixture to a high-powered blender and blend until smooth, but still

Caramelized Honeycomb Place a honeycomb on a metal baking sheet and use a kitchen torch to torch it until toasted and caramelized. Alternatively, broil until caramelized.

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Lamb Ribs with Persimmon BBQ Sauce Serves: 4-6

Lamb ribs can be difficult to slice, even once cooked, so ask your butcher to cut individual ribs for you. If you decide to cook as racks, the flavor will well be worth the potential mess! 1 2 1 1 2 4

tablespoon cumin seeds tablespoons brown sugar tablespoon white sugar tablespoon fresh or dried rosemary teaspoons kosher salt pounds lamb ribs Persimmon BBQ Sauce (recipe follows)

Persimmon BBQ Sauce Yield: About 3 cups

Hachiya persimmons work better for this recipe as they are naturally softer and riper, whereas fuyu persimmons are more firm. Feel free to blend the finished sauce with an immersion blender for a smoother texture.

2 2 1 2 2

2 2 1

teaspoons cumin seeds tablespoons grapeseed oil small onion, minced cloves garlic, minced ripe hachiya persimmons, peeled and finely diced tablespoons tomato paste tablespoons molasses (16-ounce) jar Bone Suckin’ Sauce or favorite BBQ sauce

1. Toast cumin seeds in a dry sauté pan over medium heat until just fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add oil, onions and garlic and sauté until translucent, about 3-5 minutes. 2. Add persimmons and cook until softened. Add tomato paste and molasses and cook for about 5-6 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of water and BBQ sauce, then lower heat and simmer for 20 minutes.

1. Toast cumin seeds in a dry sauté pan over medium heat until just fragrant, about 3 minutes. 2. Transfer to a bowl and combine with sugars, rosemary and salt. Rub all over lamb ribs and refrigerate for 6 hours, up to overnight. 3. Rinse mixture off and pat dry. Place in a resealable bag and cook in a sous vide at 135°F for 24 hours. Once cooked, chill the bag in cold water. 4. Remove from bag and slice into individual chops. When ready to eat, brush with BBQ sauce and grill or roast in a 400°F oven until caramelized.

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Chestnut French Toast Serves: 6

All good French toast recipes start with classic braided egg challah. Pick one up at the grocery store for convenience or use homemade — you simply can’t go wrong, but day old bread will be best. 1 braided egg challah 1 cup non-dairy creamer 2 eggs 1 cup Chestnut Purée (recipe follows), plus more for serving ½ vanilla bean, scraped ½ cup molasses ½ cup sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¾ teaspoon cinnamon Grapeseed oil Maple syrup, for serving 1. Slice challah into 1-inch slices. Remove crust, if desired. 2. Combine creamer, eggs, chestnut purée, vanilla bean seeds, molasses, sugar, salt and cinnamon. Soak challah slices for 5-8 minutes, flipping so each side saturates well. 3. Heat grapeseed oil in a griddle over medium heat. Cook challah slices until toasted on both sides, then transfer to a cooling rack. Serve with maple syrup and remaining Chestnut Purée.

Chestnut Purée Add 2½ cups roasted chestnuts, 1½ cups water, ⅓ cup grapeseed oil, ½ cup + 1 tablespoon maple syrup and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt to a high-powered blender. Blend until smooth and creamy.

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B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z R E C I P E S B Y: AV I VA F R I E D M A N

Aviva Friedman did not always plan to follow a career path in the culinary arts â&#x20AC;&#x201D; she had her sights set on becoming a lawyer. Something clicked in 2010, after dining with her mother at Basil Pizza & Wine Bar, Crown Heightsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; up-and-coming restaurant that played a great role in revolutionizing what kosher cuisine could be.

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VIVA HAD JUST graduated high school and decided to write a message to the chef on a napkin asking for an unpaid summer internship. Having no experience at all, Aviva jumped right in, shadowing the dessert and garde manger chef, eventually manning the dessert station on her own by the end of the internship. Aviva decided to pursue culinary arts and attended the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Poughkeepsie, NY. She commuted daily from Monsey and kept kosher throughout the entire two-year program by relying on her other senses to guide her through. “It was the hardest thing I ever did. I subsisted on nuts and fruit every day, but I am the chef I am today because of that persistence,” Aviva recalls. With no kosher restaurants on the CIA’s approved list, Aviva pushed to do her mandatory externship at Mike’s Bistro, a highly acclaimed restaurant on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. She gathered a wealth of knowledge from the owner and executive chef, Mike Gershkovich, and his staff. Being outnumbered by the men in the kitchen, Aviva was concerned, but pleasantly surprised by the experience. “Everyone was so patient and kind and I was never treated any differently for being a woman,” she shares. “As long

as you can hold your own, nothing else matters.” After culinary school, Aviva took a job as a line cook at Etc. Steakhouse in Teaneck, NJ, then worked as a sous chef at The Loft in Brooklyn, NY. By then, Aviva was married with a child. Whenever she needed to stay late at the restaurant, her husband would bring the baby for her to nurse. “I relished those rare moments with my baby,” she says. Ultimately, Aviva felt that she wasn’t able to give 100% of herself to either the restaurant or her family. She also had the urge to branch out creatively, so when she became pregnant with her second child in 2015, she decided it was time to leave the restaurant world behind. Aviva refers to the kitchen as “one of the most high pressure environments,” and yet, says there is nothing that can compare to the thrill of it. Though she truly misses it, Aviva realized that there was no easy way to juggle both restaurant life and having a family. AVIVA KNEW SHE wanted to start her own private chef company, but wasn’t sure where to begin. She soon came upon an opportunity to cater a 7-course monthly Rosh Chodesh dinner in Monsey, NY, which she has now been doing monthly for the last five years. “In all this time, I have

yet to repeat a dish for these monthly events. It pushes me to think outside the box and I appreciate all the feedback I get from the participants,” she says. She also accepts limited travel positions as a private chef, which has obviously halted due to COVID-19. Aviva recalls one such trip, early in her third pregnancy, where she accompanied a family on a ski vacation to Yellowstone National Park in Montana. Traveling to luxurious locations has its perks, but doesn’t come without its challenges. “I didn’t realize I would be trudging through the snow lugging boxes from the car to the house,” she says. “But watching the skiers whiz right by the kitchen windows while the aroma of Thai-inspired chicken soup wafted through the air reminded me why I do what I do.” While she does cater small events, such as Sheva Brachos or birthday parties, the majority of Aviva’s private chef work consists of intimate tasting menus, either for special occasions or small family gatherings. Her passion to bring curated restaurant-style experiences to clients’ homes has been extraordinarily rewarding. And while the pressure to deliver excellence will always be present, whether cooking in a restaurant kitchen or for her own children, right now, she wouldn’t have it any other way.

Aviva can be contacted on Instagram @gourmandatlarge.

Elisheva Taitz is a wife and mother to three children, full-time Payroll/HR Manager by day, food writer, recipe developer and Fleishigs editor by night. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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Salmon Crudo with Beets and Orange Serves: 6

(16-ounce) sushi-grade salmon loin Orange Cream (recipe follows) Beet and Orange Emulsion (recipe follows) Roasted Beets (recipe follows) Beet Chips (recipe follows) Dehydrated orange slices, for garnish (optional) Persimmon, sliced, for garnish Microgreens, for garnish

Freeze salmon for 30 minutes, then slice thinly. Arrange a few slices on one side of each plate, then add a few dollops each of orange cream and beet emulsion. Top with diced roasted beets, beet chips, blood orange chips, persimmon and microgreens.

Orange Cream

Beet and Orange Emulsion

Using a paring knife, poke several holes in 1 halved orange. Place in a small saucepan over low heat with 1½ cups water, 1½ cups sugar, 2 cinnamon sticks and 2 star anise pods and simmer for 45 minutes. Strain, discarding the spices and reserving the orange and simple syrup. Cut the orange into small pieces and blend in a high-powered blender with ¼ cup reserved simple syrup, adding more as needed, until it reaches a thick consistency. Season with a pinch of kosher salt.

Place remaining diced roasted beets in a high-powered blender with the zest and juice of ½ orange, 2 teaspoons kosher salt and ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Blend until smooth.

Roasted Beets Place 3 beets in a baking dish filled halfway with water. Cover and cook in a 350°F oven for 3 hours, turning halfway through. Let cool slightly, then rub the peels off with gloved hands. Dice beets, setting aside ½ cup for garnish and the remainder for the Beet and Orange Emulsion.

Beet Chips Carefully shave 1 peeled beet using a mandoline. Heat oil in a pot until it reaches 350°F and fry beet slices until crisp, about 2-3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and immediately season with kosher salt and spices of choice, such as coriander, cayenne or chili powder.

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Serve your favorite steak tartare in a fried cannoli shell for an outstanding presentation. Golden Cannoli brand sells kosher pareve cannoli shells in bulk online. Check out our prior steak tartare recipes in the January 2019 (#3) and September/October 2020 (#20) issues.

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Apple Cider-Braised Short Ribs

Fried Chicken Lollipops with Pomegranate Miso Glaze

Serves: 4

Serves: 6 as an appetizer

3 3 1½

For a fancier presentation, ask your butcher to French the bones of the chicken drumsticks. This creates a “lollipop.” It’s simple to do at home as well. Saw off the knuckle, then cut away the skin from the “handles” to expose the bone. Scrape until clean.

1 3

pounds short ribs or flanken roast teaspoons kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (4-inch) knob ginger, peeled and sliced large onion, quartered cups apple cider Apple Tarragon Purée (recipe follows) Parsnip Cream (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Place ribs in a baking dish or roasting pan and season with salt and pepper. Nestle ginger and onions around the meat and pour in apple cider. Cover tightly with foil and braise for 3-3½ hours, until meat is fork tender. Let cool. 2. Reduce the cooking liquid in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, until thickened and glossy and it coats the back of a spoon. Strain over meat. Serve with Apple Tarragon Purée and Parsnip Cream.

Apple Tarragon Purée To maintain the bright color, this purée is best made right before serving, as the tarragon and apple will oxidize from the acid and from exposure. Blanch ½ bunch of tarragon in lightly salted boiling water for 1030 seconds, then drain and shock in a bowl of ice water. Squeeze out excess water and drain on paper towels. Core and cube 2 Granny Smith apples and blend with tarragon and ⅛ teaspoon citric acid (or lemon juice) in a high-powered blender. Stream in olive oil, 1 teaspoon at a time, until mixture is emulsified, smooth and creamy. Season with kosher salt to taste.

1½ 2 1

cups all-purpose flour teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ½ teaspoon celery salt ¼ teaspoon ground coriander 6 chicken drumsticks 3 eggs Oil, for frying 1. Create a dredging station: Combine flour and spices in one bowl and whisk eggs in another bowl. Dredge chicken drumsticks in the flour mixture, then in the egg mixture and finally in the flour mixture again. Place on a baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to fry, if desired. 2. Heat about 2-3 inches of oil in a large pot until it reaches 350°F. Working in batches, gently lower chicken into the pot and fry for about 18 minutes, turning to ensure even browning, until a thermometer inserted into the chicken reads 165°F. Drain on a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and serve immediately with Pomegranate Miso Glaze.

Pomegranate Miso Glaze Yield: ¾ cup

Heat 4 cups of pomegranate juice in a saucepan over high heat and reduce until thickened to about ½ cup. Whisk in ¼ cup miso. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

Parsnip Cream Add 2 peeled and sliced parsnips, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 1 tablespoon olive oil to a medium pot over low heat. Cover with 1½ cups water and cook for 1 hour, until parsnips are tender. Drain water. Blend in a high-powered blender, adding water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until smooth and creamy. JANUARY 2021

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Aviva’s Tips Aviva has learned a lot along the way, from culinary school and working in various restaurant settings to working as a private chef, all while growing her family. Here are some of her tricks of the trade: If you work from home with kids who are still at home, give yourself the support you need to be successful, whether that be cleaning help or babysitting help. It’s so important to create boundaries for yourself.

Meringues with Lemon Curd and Grapefruit Gelée Yield: 5 dozen mini meringues

4 ¼ ¼ 1

egg whites, at room temperature (reserve yolks for curd) teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cream of tartar cup sugar Lemon Curd (recipe follows) Grapefruit Gelée (recipe follows) Grapefruit or orange segments Honeycomb Candy (recipe follows)

1. Add egg whites, salt and cream of tartar to the bowl of a stand mixer with a whisk attachment and whisk until soft peaks form. Alternatively, use a hand mixer. Slowly stream in sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. 2. Preheat oven to 225°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and pipe “kisses” in single rows; the meringues won’t spread, but will stick together if touching. Bake for 1 hour, until dried and crisp to the touch. Serve with Lemon Curd, Grapefruit Gelée, grapefruit segments and bits of Honeycomb Candy.

Lemon Curd Yield: 2 cups

Add 8 egg yolks, 1 cup sugar and ¼ teaspoon lemon extract to a small pot over medium heat. Whisk to combine, then

add ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, ⅔ cup lemon juice, 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 1 stick (½ cup) cubed non-dairy butter substitute. Cook, whisking constantly, until bubbles form around the edges. Transfer to a heat proof container. Place a layer of plastic wrap directly onto the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Cover container and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Grapefruit Gelée Add 1½ teaspoons kosher gelatin powder and ¼ cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice to a bowl and set aside to bloom. Heat ¾ cup grapefruit juice and 2 tablespoons honey in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the bloomed gelatin mixture and heat until the edges start to bubble. Pour onto a parchmentlined baking sheet and refrigerate to cool. When set, cut into the desired shape.

If there are material things that will help you be more efficient at your job, don’t agonize about justifying the purchases (unless, of course, it’s out of your means). Whether it is a larger computer screen, a new appliance or, in my case, a wireless, wearable breast pump — splurge — the benefits might outweigh the cost. Organization is the key to success. I am an avid list maker and meticulous planner, which ensures smooth sailing both at home and at events. Disposable piping bags and squeeze bottles are essential. They allow you to store sauces and purées and effectively dress up your plate of food with little effort.

Honeycomb Candy Grease a baking sheet or line with parchment paper and set aside. Add 1 cup sugar, ¼ cup honey, 2 tablespoons corn syrup and ¼ cup water to a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until the temperature reaches 300°F. Remove from heat and add 1 tablespoon baking soda and ½ teaspoon kosher salt, whisking until just incorporated, then quickly pour onto the prepared baking sheet; let cool at room temperature. Once cool, break into chunks. JANUARY 2021

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BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN

HAWAIIAN KAMPACHI with sea vegetables and jalapeño sorbet; pastured lamb chop with black cumin and apricot fennel purée; crescent steak with smoked potato, broccoli rabe and charred leek. These were just a few of the dishes you would find on the menu of the extravagant, 17-course dinner thrown by the Bay Area-based Epic Bites kosher catering company under the helm of New York-native Chef Isaac Bernstein.

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ISAAC ISN’T BOUND TO ANY PARTICULAR INGREDIENTS.

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started out under the moniker Adequate Catering, a reflection of its humble roots, but it quickly became clear that the dishes they were serving at these lavish dinners were anything but adequate. At the time, feasts like these were almost unheard of in the kosher world, but the idea came to Bernstein one day in 2012 as a way to donate his services to his synagogue’s annual fundraising auction and soon turned into a full-fledged business. Wine aficionados would spend hundreds, if not thousands, to attend incredibly lengthy and elaborate dinners, with course after course of unique locally-sourced dishes paired with rare and exotic wines. “The majority of our business was standard-fare catering, like platters of wraps for shul functions, so a tasting dinner was an opportunity for me and my staff to get creative,” says Bernstein. “We’d start by looking at what was in season and spend a lot of time working with local farms and foragers to source these unique ingredients, then make everything ourselves, from the bread to the charcuterie — all out of this tiny shul kitchen.” Everything (except the meat) was from within 100 miles of the area, creating a true farm-to-table experience, before that became a ubiquitous slogan. Bernstein pushed the boundaries of kosher dining, using duck and goose fat in place of butter and creating bacon and hamlike dishes out of kosher meat like veal, lamb and duck. Even as Bernstein spent his high school and college years supporting himself with various jobs in the food industry, he says he wasn’t quite sure what he wanted to do with his life. “Growing up in the suburbs, working in the local bagel shop or Chinese takeout joint is just what you do at a certain age,” he comments. After being rejected for a prestigious apprenticeship in Northern California, Bernstein gathered his courage and showed up at the front door anyway, where they acknowledged his boldness and decided to give him a chance. It was there that he had the opportunity to work with well known pastry chefs and bakers, opening the door to many more career options in the years to come. After a few years with Epic Bites, Bernstein made the move across the country in 2015 for a THE COMPANY ORIGINALLY

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role as culinary director of Pomegranate, Brooklyn’s premier kosher supermarket. “When I first joined Pomegranate, my peers laughed at me. All my dreams and philosophies seemed to clash with working in a ‘deli,’ as they referred to it,” he reflects, but he spent the following years proving those assumptions to be profoundly misplaced, pioneering new ideas and redefining what a supermarket deli counter could be. Every week, Bernstein would debut his fully cooked, upscale “Pom Prime” menu, including dishes like preserved lemon-marinated whole grilled chicken; gochujangglazed duck breast with a turnip-pear purée and duck fat-roasted radishes; and grilled aged boneless short ribs with charred scallions and soy pickled vegetables. Bernstein relished the challenge of creating and implementing a menu that would work in a takeout format, so customers could bring home these delicacies for an epic Shabbat dinner feast in their own homes. OVER TIME, INTERACTING directly with customers on such a large scale impacted Bernstein’s cooking style, as he found himself creating menus based more on what people wanted and less on his own desires. “It gave me an opportunity to learn and progress in the field so I could be a lot more successful,” says Bernstein, “but at the same time, there were times that I felt like it was stifling my creativity.” After a trailblazing few years of redefining the kosher supermarket deli, the self-described “peaceful hippie” decided it was time to redefine and reclaim his own identity and

move on to the next chapter in his life. “I wanted to figure out who I was,” says Bernstein. “I’ve spent the last two years rediscovering myself, trying to figure out what I wanted to do next.” He now spends a large portion of his time as a consulting culinary director for various companies, using his experience and scientific knowledge in research and development to help them improve their product or service. Together with a few partners, Bernstein has also opened Grüit, a neighborhood eatery and beer garden in Brooklyn that serves unique modernized versions of “old world” Jewish comfort food, a cuisine known as one of his specialties. At the same time, Bernstein has had the opportunity to allow his creative side to flourish, providing private catering for the clients who want the unique experience he has to offer. “My skill is my creativity,” he adds. “I’m not looking for the clients who will call me and tell me what they want me to serve — you can hire any good chef to do that. If you’re hiring me, it’s for the experience.” Due to the pandemic, many people are pivoting towards smaller, more intimate events, hiring private chefs

like Bernstein to create memorable experiences in their own homes. “The kosher landscape has changed a lot in recent years,” says Bernstein, “and there’s no single chef who can take credit for any of that. The shift might be chef-led, because we are always trying to introduce people to new ingredients and cuisines that they aren’t familiar with yet, but ultimately, it’s householddriven, because it’s the home cooks who seek to buy those items in the grocery store, leading to a huge expansion in the availability of unique kosher products in the world today.” Bernstein now has the multi-faceted culinary career that he enjoys, but when asked what brings him fulfillment, his answer is entirely non-food related. “Playing a lot of music, being in a loving relationship, hanging out with my kids — that’s what’s fulfilling to me. Nobody was put on this earth just to cook food. Although I love the creative side of my job, at the end of the day, the part of my work that is most rewarding is feeding and nurturing people; creating dishes that will evoke nostalgia and give them that feeling of nourishment.”

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Everything Bagel Salmon Crudo Serves: 8

Shifra’s Note: Chef Isaac has been serving up a form of this dish for the past 12 years. It is an elegant take on a classic that always goes over well. The salmon loin is the center part of a side of salmon. You can cut it out yourself by slicing across salmon lengthwise and cutting out the flat/thinner edge of salmon, which yields an even-sized, rectangular piece that makes the perfect crudo. Chef Isaac uses a smoking gun and glass dome to truly elevate the presentation of this dish. While it’s not the most practical idea for the home cook, you can also use smoked Maldon salt to achieve a smoky finish. 2 1 1½ 2

tablespoons kosher salt tablespoon sugar teaspoons everything bagel seasoning pounds salmon loin Avocado Mousse (recipe follows) Red Wine Pickled Onions, finely diced (recipe follows) Fried Capers (recipe follows) Bagel Chip Crumbs (recipe follows)

Smoked Maldon salt, for garnish (optional)

1. Combine salt, sugar and everything bagel seasoning with 1 cup of water in a large Ziploc bag or large dish with a lid. Add salmon loin and let sit for no longer than 40-45 minutes. 2. Remove from water and pat dry with a paper towel. Place on a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and refrigerate for 1 hour, then thinly slice. 3. For individual servings, arrange 2-3 slices of salmon crudo in the center of each plate. Pipe avocado mousse on one corner and top with pickled red onions, fried capers, bagel chip crumbs and smoked Maldon salt, if desired. Alternatively, plate it family-style by spreading avocado mousse on a platter and topping with salmon crudo, pickled onions, fried capers, bagel chip crumbs and smoked Maldon salt, if desired.

Avocado Mousse Blend the flesh of 4 ripe avocados, 2 tablespoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons oil, 4 ice cubes, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper until very smooth.

Red Wine Pickled Onions Bring 1 cup red wine, ½ cup sugar, 1 tablespoon kosher salt and ½ small red beet to a simmer. Pour over 3 thinly sliced red onions. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Fried Capers Drain ½ cup capers and pat dry with paper towels. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a pan and fry just until capers begin to burst and crisp up.

Bagel Chip Crumbs Thinly slice 2 bagels, then toast in a 400°F oven until dry and crisp. Lightly crush until coarsely ground. 88

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Miso-Crusted Beef Carpaccio Serves: 8

3 ¼ 1½

pound whole center rib eye (also known as “kosher filet mignon”) tablespoons miso paste Artichoke Confit, thinly sliced (page 94) cup thinly sliced kalamata olives cups baby arugula or baby greens Chive oil (recipe follows) Maldon salt Freshly ground black pepper

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1. Coat meat with miso and refrigerate, uncovered, overnight. 2. A half hour before plating, freeze meat to allow for easy slicing. Using a sharp knife or mandoline, cut meat into paperthin slices and arrange on a plate or platter.

Chive Oil Yield: 1½ cups

Blend ½ cup fresh chives, ½ cup canola oil and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a high-powered blender on maximum speed. Chill, then strain through a coffee filter.

3. Top with sliced artichoke confit, olives and baby arugula. Drizzle with chive oil and sprinkle with Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper.

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Sous Vide Boneless Flanken Roast Serves: 4-6

This is a complex recipe with many steps, but results in a glorious, high-end braised meat dish that is packed with layers and layers of umami flavors. Reading the recipe can serve as inspiration to see what is involved in creating dish of this level and inspires a deep respect for what chefs bring to the table (no pun intended!). On that note, however, I have included a streamlined version of the recipe at the end so that you can make an easier version of this dish at home.

1 1 1

(4-pound) boneless short rib roast (flanken roast) tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon oil Black Garlic Paste (recipe follows) Black Garlic Demi-Glace (recipe follows) Mushroom Purée (recipe follows) Crispy Maitake Mushrooms (recipe follows)

1. Season meat with salt and pepper. Place on a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and refrigerate for 6-24 hours. This allows the moisture to evaporate, which helps create a crust when searing. 2. Heat oil in a cast iron pan over high heat and sear meat until a beautiful dark crust develops. Let cool, then refrigerate until chilled. 3. Rub meat with Black Garlic Paste, then transfer to a sous vide bag and cook for 24 hours at 158°F. 4. Place a heavy pan on top of the bag and allow it to cool at room temperature for up to 1 hour. This enhances the texture of the meat and helps make cleaner portions. Refrigerate until cold. 5. Preheat oven to 500°F. Remove meat from the bag, pat it dry and trim into 4-6 even rectangular portions. Place on a wire rack set on top of a baking sheet and cook for 15 minutes. Glaze with Black Garlic Demi-Glace. 6. Place Mushroom Purée in the center of a plate and top with a short rib. Serve Crispy Maitake Mushrooms alongside and finish with additional Black Garlic Demi-Glace.

Black Garlic Paste Yield: ⅔ cup

Purée ¼ cup black garlic cloves, ¼ cup water and ¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce until smooth.

Black Garlic Demi-Glace Add ¼ cup Black Garlic Paste and 2 cups of Veal Stock Reduction to a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Whisk until incorporated.

Veal Stock Reduction Toss 5 pounds veal bones, 5 chopped carrots, 16 celery stalks, 2 chopped onions, ½ cup tomato paste and ¼ cup oil. Roast at 375°F for 1 hour until golden brown. Transfer to a multi-cooker with 2 sprigs fresh thyme and 2 bay leaves. Cover with water and cook at high pressure for 1½ hours. Strain, then reduce by half.

Crispy Maitake Mushrooms Cut 2 large maitake mushrooms into 4 pieces each. Bring a pot of neutral oil to 350°F and fry until crispy, about 5 minutes. Immediately season with kosher salt and truffle powder or truffle oil.

Mushroom Purée Heat ¼ cup oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add 2 pounds sliced white mushrooms, 1 pound sliced maitake mushrooms and 1 pound sliced shiitake mushrooms; sauté until golden brown, about 7-10 minutes. Add 5 cloves garlic confit (page 23) and ¼ cup caramelized onions. Transfer to a high-powered blender with 3 cups veal stock and blend, adding more veal stock if necessary. With the motor running, stream in 2 tablespoons truffle oil and ¼ cup grapeseed oil. Press mixture through a fine-mesh strainer until smooth. MAKE IT SIMPLE:

1. Season meat with salt and pepper and refrigerate as per step 1. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Add 2 halved heads of garlic, 1 sliced onion, 3 chopped carrots, 1 cup sliced mushrooms and 2 chopped stalks of celery to the bottom of a pan, then set seasoned roast on top of vegetables. Mix 2 tablespoons of tomato paste into 1 cup of chicken stock, then pour into the pan. Cover tightly with foil and braise in the oven for 3 hours. 3. Toss 1 cup sliced mushrooms with 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Roast for 25 minutes. 4. Remove roast from oven and uncover. Let cool. Strain liquid into a medium pot, adding back only the onion and garlic, removing any excess peels. Blend with an immersion blender, then continue to cook on low for 5 minutes. To help thicken the gravy, dissolve 2 teaspoons of cornstarch with 1 tablespoon warm water and add to the pot. 5. Raise heat to 500°F. Slice roast into even rectangular portions. Place on a wire rack set on top of a baking sheet and glaze with gravy. Cook for 15 minutes. Serve with roasted mushrooms and gravy.

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Artichoke Confit Serves: 8

Combine 1 (14-ounce) bag frozen artichoke bottoms, 1 cup canola oil, 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 sprigs fresh rosemary, 3 sprigs fresh thyme, 5 garlic cloves and 4 halved lemons in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook for 1Â˝ hours, mostly covered, until artichokes are fork tender. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

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RECIPES BY: HUDI RIVEN

S H I F R A' S N O T E :

When I asked expert private chef Hudi Riven for his go-to fish recipes, he sent me a wonderful seared sea bass dish and his technique for making gravlax at home. Had I not made the recipes myself and seen the results, I would have been too intimidated to tackle these recipes. But after making both his dishes, I now have two very different fish recipes in my back pocket as a go-to when looking to make something easy, yet elegant.

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Seared Sea Bass with Maple Onion Cream and Fennel Radish Slaw Serves: 6

Searing the sea bass takes minutes and results in the most buttery, flaky fish you’ll ever try. 6 1 ½ 1½

(4-6 ounce) sea bass fillets teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons oil Maple Onion Cream (recipe follows) Fennel Radish Slaw (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Pat seabass fillets dry with a paper towel, then season with salt and pepper. 2. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Sear fish for 3-4 minutes, until it releases easily with a spatula. Flip, then transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 8-12 minutes. Serve with Maple Onion Cream and Fennel Radish Slaw.

Maple Onion Cream Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add 2 large sliced onions, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, about 25-30 minutes. Add ⅓ cup full-fat coconut milk, 2 teaspoons maple syrup, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and the leaves from 2 sprigs of thyme and stir to combine. Pureé until smooth.

Fennel Radish Slaw Julienne 1 bulb of fennel and 1 large watermelon radish. Add 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Toss to combine.

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Gravlax Serves: 8

Gravlax is very versatile and easier than you may think to make at home. The gravlax can go from casual Sunday brunch to an elegant canape. The ingredients can be switched up based on what you have on hand or the flavor profile you are in the mood for. • Any combination of sugar: White, light brown, dark brown, muscovado, turbinado • Any combination of acid: Vinegar (white, apple cider, red wine, rice, balsamic), citrus juice (orange, lemon, grapefruit), alcohol (gin, vodka, scotch, bourbon) • Extras: Add spices (coriander seeds, fennel seeds, peppercorns, sumac) or herbs (dill, thyme, rosemary). Grated beets make a statement and impart a beautiful color to the gravlax. 3-4 3-4 1

cups kosher salt cups sugar Zest and juice of 1 lime Zest of 1 grapefruit + 2 tablespoons of juice side of salmon Caper Remoulade, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Combine salt, sugar, citrus zest and juice and mix until it reaches the consistency of wet sand. Place salmon on top of a large piece of plastic wrap. Cover salmon completely with the cure, then wrap tightly. Refrigerate for at least 2 days, but not more than 3 or the gravlax will be too tough and salty. 2. Rinse cure from the fish, then pat dry. Slice on the bias as thinly as you can. Serve with bagels and spreads like Caper Remoulade.

Caper Remoulade Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup chopped capers, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Chef Hudi Riven was trained in French technique and pastry at the St. Pius Culinary Institute in Montreal. He currently works as a private chef based out of Brooklyn, NY and has worked across the globe from the age of 16 for prestigious restaurants, caterers, bakeries and pastry shops. He has held impressive roles, including sous chef at the renowned former Brooklyn restaurant, Pardes. Hudi started Riven Gourmet to bring a fine-dining experience to the comfort of one’s home or vacation getaway. Each experience is unique, tailored to each customer’s specific needs. Hudi can be contacted on Instagram @riven_gourmet or through his website rivengourmet.com.

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DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T

SM SIA

RB ENTHU CU

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M U

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RISOTTO IS EASIER TO MAKE WITHOUT AN ANGRY BRITISH CHEF YELLING IN YOUR FACE.

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SHIFRA’S NOTE:

RISOTTO IS ONE of those dishes that needs attention. To do it right, you are required to hang out by the stove, stirring, tasting and adjusting until the rice reaches the perfect texture and balance of flavor. It isn’t difficult to make and is the ultimate technique-based dish to master. A basic risotto requires very little beyond a few simple ingredients — arborio rice, some basic vegetables, white wine and water or stock. Once you have those things on hand, put on a podcast or play your favorite tunes and you are good to go. The awesome thing about this dish is that it can be easily dressed up and is a great way to utilize leftovers. Hunny’s go-to risotto recipe below utilizes squash purée, which is especially great in the fall and winter months, but you can use any vegetable purée (spinach, corn, mushroom — the options are endless). Make it dairy by adding butter and folding in a generous amount of grated Parmesan cheese at the end. Make it meat by using chicken or beef stock and serving it with sliced meat or chicken.

Butternut Squash Risotto Serves: 6-8

¼ 2 ½

10 1 1 1 1½ 5 ½ 4

large butternut squash, halved and seeds removed cup olive oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste sage leaves onion, finely diced shallot, minced clove garlic, minced cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice dates, chopped cup dry white wine cups vegetable, veal or chicken stock

Optional garnishes:

Kale chips, fried sage leaves, toasted pumpkin seeds, candied hazelnuts, orange zest, extravirgin olive oil, balsamic reduction

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush butternut squash with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with ½ teaspoon salt. Lightly press sage leaves into flesh and roast, skin-side up, until tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Once cooked, discard sage and let cool. Scoop out flesh and purée. Set aside. 3. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions, shallots, garlic, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt and pepper. Sauté for 2 minutes, then add rice and toast until aromatic. 4. Add dates and white wine and stir until liquid is absorbed. Begin adding stock, 1 cup at a time, and stir continuously until liquid is absorbed. This process should take about 35 minutes in total. Fold in puréed squash and season to taste. Taste the rice; it should be slightly al dente when done. Top with your choice of garnishes and serve warm. L E F TOV E RS :

Leftover risotto can be made into arancini, which are irresistible Italian fried risotto balls. Simply roll cold rice into 3-ounce balls. Working one at a time, dredge risotto balls in flour, shaking off excess, then into egg and finally into panko breadcrumbs. Transfer to a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for 1 hour or freeze for 20 minutes. Fry for about 4-5 minutes, until golden brown and crispy.

Hunny Khodorkovsky grew up in Montreal, Quebec in a family with strong Moroccan roots. As a young girl, Hunny spent time cooking and baking with her mother and began to develop a love for the kitchen. In 2012, Hunny and her family moved to Michigan, where she enrolled in culinary school for fun, graduating with honors and a 4.0 GPA. It was a hobby that quickly grew into a passion. Hunny took advantage of all the extra programming at school, never turning down an opportunity even if it meant working for free. Hunny’s thirst for knowledge and experience led her to become a sous chef for Michelle Bommarito, a chef and Food Network star. Shortly thereafter, she was hired as the executive chef of a kosher café and catering company. Without ego or pretense, Hunny gained a tremendous amount by learning from those around her; the restaurant ended up earning the Best Vegetarian Restaurant in Metro Detroit award while she was the chef. After a few years, Hunny was hired by one of Michigan’s hottest restaurants, where she worked alongside James Beard award winners and a phenomenal pastry chef who recently won Food & Wine’s Best New Chef. She chose to surround herself with the best in the industry, even if it meant working in nonkosher kitchens with the inability to taste any of the food. Her heightened sense of touch and smell helped her when taste was simply not an option. Recognizing a niche within the Jewish community, Hunny and her business partner, Stephanie Friedman, started a professional personal chef service, offering cooking classes, demonstrations, events and vacation chef services abroad. It is no surprise that the pandemic halted most of their business. Therefore, Hunny and Stephanie pivoted and continue to offer delicious food in smaller, more unique settings. It is hard to know what the future may bring, but Hunny is confident that her career as a chef has given her incredible opportunities, the ability to step outside her comfort zone and challenge herself to create unforgettable culinary experiences. Hunny says, “There is no end in sight as I continue to master my craft and welcome whatever comes my way. The hustle is real!” Hunny can be contacted on Instagram @hunnythechef.

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ADVERTORIAL

AY AND SHARON BECK

started KPC Concierge over 20 years ago in an effort to fill a void in the luxury kosher market, providing gourmet chefs and vacation dining to clients worldwide. It has since evolved from a high-end catering company to an all-encompassing, full-service business model, providing clients with everything they need from A to Z, ranging from travel services including mansion rentals, yacht charters, hotel bookings, gourmet food deliveries and chef services to full event planning including catering, decor, entertainment, excursion itinerary building and more. COVID has profoundly changed the way people think about travel and now more than ever these services can help families book intimate — and safe — family vacations without worrying about the details. “A private mansion rental provides the added safety precautions that many need to consider nowadays. KPC completely sanitizes the

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home in accordance with our client’s needs,” says Sharon. To go along with the rental, KPC provides experienced chefs to cook meals or fully stock the fridge and freezer with prepared food and groceries. “With everyone being so busy dealing with life during a pandemic, one call and KPC does it all,” Jay says. KPC is not just a private chef service, but rather a service-based company with expansive resources. This allows them to be in tune to the particular needs of their clients; no request is too big and no location is off-limits. Last summer, KPC received a call about a group traveling to the French Riviera. In less than six hours’ notice, they sent one of their acclaimed chefs and all the extras needed to create a spectacular experience in Monaco. Another example is when all of the Pesach programs shut down last year due to COVID-19. A few days before Pesach, a high-profile client called in desperate need of last minute arrangements for a large family. KPC was able to secure a mega mansion in Orlando with chefs, food and

amenities to recreate the program experience, complete with Chol Hamoed activities in compliance with the new restrictions. While KPC is known as the premier provider in the luxury sector for private planes, yacht charters, mansion rentals and high-end event planning, a big part of KPC is still rooted in its original foundation, which is providing the highest caliber of kosher food on Earth — no exaggeration! As soon as clients return from winter break at the end of January, KPC jumps right into full Pesach mode, providing a more intimate alternative to a big Pesach program. And for those who prefer to stay in the comfort of their own home, KPC delivers entire gourmet meal packages to New York, New Jersey, Miami, Orlando, Los Angeles, Chicago and more. KPC can be contacted through their website www.kosherprivatechef.com, via email info@kosherprivatechef.com and on Instagram @kosherprivatechef.

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M AU I 2020 W R I TT EN BY: M IR IAM L . WAL L AC H

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TRAVEL

OR WEEKS BEFORE our trip to Maui, the question above was the most common response when someone heard we were going on vacation. In equal proportion to their level of shock that we were going anywhere during a pandemic, for all that it mattered, I could have answered “Mars.” While it was inconceivable to many that we were going away, it was even more unfathomable that our destination was Hawaii. My husband, always prepared, checked the New York State travel website frequently for the latest information, had a handle on Hawaii’s requirements for visitors and understood the demands for our return home. After spitting into tubes during a telehealth appointment before we left and identifying locations on Maui for our return COVID test, it was time for us to fly. Maui lives up to the hype and does not disappoint. With 30+ miles of majestic beaches, incredible sunsets and quintessential island life vibe, everything you dream about Maui is true. You leave wondering when your next visit will be, because Maui gets under your skin in the best possible way and doesn’t let go. Hawaii is an archipelago of nine islands (Maui being one

of them) and many travelers choose to visit a few islands during their stay. Island hopping is complicated during COVID and we therefore chose to stay on Maui. (Check before planning your trip to see if island hopping is permitted. If it is, I highly recommend it.) Having been to Maui before, we enjoyed the benefits of previous experience. Our first stop after landing is always Costco, located less than 10 minutes from the airport. (It's good to note that Instacart is available for this location.) We bought frozen Empire chicken, salmon, cheese and many other kosher items. Between Safeway and Walmart, also close by, we picked up most other basic necessities including bread, wine and household supplies. No matter where you’re staying on the island, it’s best to get these stops out of the way before heading on. Oahu Kosher is a catering company based in Oahu, a great resource for delicious prepared kosher meals (i.e. sweet and sour meatballs; sesame chicken; salmon). They were shut down during the peak of COVID, but are operational once again, delivering to all the Hawaiian islands, should you choose to take that route. (www.oahukosher.com)

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THE TWO GENERAL areas in Maui with the best hotel accommodations are Lahaina/ Kaanapali and Wailea/Makena. Both areas have advantages and provide incredible snorkeling and deep sea diving opportunities. Brilliant coral reefs, marine life and some of the clearest and calmest water you will ever see await you there. The area known as Upcountry encompases much of the remainder of the island. The town of Hana and the glorious tourist attraction known as the Road to Hana (aptly named, as it is the actual road to Hana) as well as the Haleakala National Park are all located there and should not be missed. Heading out on the Road to Hana is an all day event. Pack plenty of food and drink and make sure you have a full tank of gas before beginning. The road is beautiful, with the Pacific Ocean (including black sand beaches) on one side and rainbow eucalyptus trees, waterfalls and lush fauna on the other. Park and make stops along the way to experience all of this and more. Visit your hotel’s concierge or research various travel blogs (a quick Google search will do the trick) for the most popular stops. Be prepared ahead of time with an idea of which stops, and how many, you want to make. The speed limit in many

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IT’S HIGH TIME YOU ENJOYED HIGH TIDE

areas is anywhere between 15-25 mph and that’s not merely a suggestion. The road is incredibly circuitous and not for the inexperienced driver. Most guidebooks caution tourists to finish the road before sundown — heed that advice. Haleakala National Park is an incredible experience and words do not do it justice. At its tallest peak, the volcano is over 10,000 feet high. At this elevation, spectators who drive to the top rise above the cloud cover and enjoy not only the best sunrise or sunset ever seen, but also the brightest stars and views of constellations as well. Admittedly, I am not an astrology buff. Planetariums, in my opinion, are great places for naps. Even I, however, enjoy watching the stars come out at night while on top of Haleakala. God puts on one incredible light show and it is worth every second. There are tour groups that you can join with options to bike down from the summit. Ziplining courses are popular in that area as well. Of course, check availability before booking. Before you head back home, after you think you’ve seen and done everything, there is one more stop you need to make, which won’t be found on any “Top 10 Things to do in Maui” list.

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TRAVEL

VISITING CHANI AND MENDEL ZIRKIND

at Maui Kosher Farm comes with a wonderful tour of their livestock, fruit trees and sustainable farm. In addition, as Mendel is a trained chef with restaurant experience from Le Marais in Manhattan and Wolf & Lamb in Brooklyn, book your visit in advance and you will enjoy a first class meal unlike anything else available on the island. (Meals are also available for Shabbat.) With great appreciation to their landlord from whom they rent the land, Chani and Mendel provide tours of their farm, their brand new mikvah and explain what first brought them to Maui. There are between 3,000-5,000 Jews on the island and the Zirkinds are always ready and willing to host the next simcha on the island. “We are always prepared for a wedding,” said Chani — she isn’t kidding. The Zirkinds gave us a tour of their fully stocked freezers, filled with products they have shipped to the island as well as the shechitah that Mendel performs on the farm. In the months prior, they staged a wedding, hosted a bar mitzvah and had 100 guests for Sukkot.

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They also hosted a three week camp for teen girls over the summer. And like all good — and classic — Jewish experiences, it took about five minutes to play an intense game of Jewish geography to learn just how many people we know in common. It was pretty much over when Chani said, “You work for Nachum Segal? My brothers are 8th Day.” Game. Set. Match. We had already felt like we belonged way before the Jewish geography had commenced. Warm and inviting, the Zirkinds make you feel at home, even if it is thousands of miles from where you live. Sitting on their swing, playing with their dog Matza Ball and holding a papaya picked fresh off their tree, it is a pretty remarkable way to spend your time. Like I said, Maui does not disappoint. The sunsets do not get old and you do not tire of the vibrant rainbows that seem to be a mile wide. “Mah Rabu Ma’asecha Hashem” (“How great and many are your deeds, Hashem”) fell from my lips a number of times this trip. Already back under my skin, I cannot wait to get back.

AMAZING KOSHER FOOD? YOU CAN BET THE FARM ON IT.

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Maui Kosher Farm, a nonprofit organization, is run by Chani and Mendel Zirkind. They offer private chef services, cottages for Shabbos, farm tours, a mikvah on-site and more. Visit mauikosherfarm. com or contact them via email mauikosherfarm@gmail.com.

Miriam L. Wallach, M.S.Ed., M.A., is the General Manager of the Nachum Segal Network (NSN) and host of “That’s Life” (Thurs 10:30am ET) on NSN.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Miso-Glazed Brownies Serves: 12

8 6½ ¾ ¼ 3 1 ½ ¼

ounces good quality dark chocolate chips or chunks tablespoons oil (or ½ cup non-dairy butter substitute) cup sugar cup packed light or dark brown sugar large eggs teaspoon vanilla extract cup + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt

Optional add-ins:

Bracha Arnold was raised in Toronto, a city that, when she was growing up, had little to offer in the way of kosher food. After dabbling in photography, music and art, Bracha realized that food was her calling and she began catering Shabbat dinners for young adults in Toronto. She eventually moved to Israel and started working as a private chef for a family that hosted large Shabbat and holiday meals, events and parties. Her Jerusalem home became the go-to destination for fun, delicious and creative Shabbat meals, where she showcased new cooking techniques and high-quality ingredients. Bracha worked for a kosher travel company, planning exciting vacations all over the world and catering them as well. Many summers were spent criss-crossing the globe, kashering villas and hotels and creating three meals a day, showcasing local cuisines and produce. After spending a few years in that role, Bracha craved a change and began working in a few restaurants throughout Jerusalem, eventually making her way back to private chef work, helping clients with weekly meal prep or holiday catering. Unfortunately, COVID-19 has halted a lot of Bracha’s work, but opened up smaller scale avenues, such as catering intimate family dinners and parties. While Bracha’s cooking style has evolved and shifted through the years, she recently had a return to simplicity as the world craves more comfort. However, her food is always beautifully plated, touching on her art background, as she firmly believes that food is an art expression. Bracha believes that every home cook and budding chef should focus their time on learning the basics, like knife skills, and invest in highquality ingredients, like olive oil and salt. Most importantly, enjoy the process! Bracha can be contacted on Instagram @the_bracha or via email bracha.arnold@gmail.com

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Chocolate chunks, white chocolate, toasted nuts, caramel sauce, tahini, pink peppercorns, lavender blossoms, Maldon salt Miso Glaze (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 9x9-inch baking pan with parchment paper. 2. Add chocolate and oil to a heatproof bowl and melt over a pot of simmering water, stirring constantly, until fully melted. Alternatively, melt in a microwave-safe bowl in 20 second increments, stirring in between, until fully melted. 3. Once chocolate is melted, transfer to a mixing bowl. Whisk in the sugars and set aside for 10-15 minutes to cool. Add eggs, one at a time, and whisk until fully incorporated before adding the next egg. Whisk in the flour and salt and mix until just combined. Add any optional mix-ins.

Caramelized Pineapple Tarte Tatin Serves: 6-8

1 2 1 1

whole pineapple Scant ½ cup sugar tablespoons rum, optional tablespoon oil or non-dairy butter substitute sheet puff pastry Zest of 1 lime Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Set aside a 9-inch oven proof frying pan or skillet. 2. Cut out a circle of puff pastry the size of your pan, prick with fork and place on lined sheet pan in fridge. 3. Peel and slice pineapple into ¾-inch slices. Punch out the core of each slice with a small cookie cutter or paring knife. 4. Add sugar to a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Once the sugar starts melting and turns a light golden brown, add the pineapple rings. Pour in rum and oil. Give the pan a little swirl to prevent any sugar from burning. 5. Cook pineapple rings for 2 minutes per side, until nicely caramelized. 6. Remove puff pastry from fridge and place round over pan of pineapples. 7. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool slightly before inverting the tarte tatins onto individual plates. Top with lime zest and serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

4. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 25-35 minutes. Let cool, then glaze.

Miso Glaze I use shiro/white miso, which is very mild. You may need to add an additional ½ tablespoon in order to get the perfect sweet-salty balance. The ideal texture of the glaze is thick, but still runny; you may need to adjust the sugar or hot water to get the perfect desired texture. 1½ 2-3 1

tablespoons light miso tablespoons hot water cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Dissolve miso in 2 tablespoons of hot water by whisking until smooth. Add powdered sugar and continue whisking until incorporated. Add more water and/or sugar if needed to achieve the desired consistency.

BRACHA’S KITCHEN SAFETY TIP Before cutting the pineapple, or anything for that matter, set up a safe station. Dampen a kitchen towel, fold it in half and place it under a heavy cutting board. This will ensure that the board doesn’t slip as you cut the pineapple, giving you more control and minimizing risk of injury.

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SOMETHING SWEET

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INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

How did Jazz Age Cocktails begin? Before COVID, Jazz Age Cocktails was just my personal Instagram page, where I would post date nights, speakeasy outings with my wife, Kayla, and some of my own homemade craft cocktail concoctions. Once the speakeasies closed and date nights were limited, Malkie Hirsch (@kissthekoshercook), knowing my background in bartending and mixology, started throwing my name out there. Since people couldn’t go out to bars, at-home mixology courses seemed like a great way to adapt — learning to create drinks as a fun activity from the comfort of your own home. The concept has taken off. What makes the Jazz Age Cocktails Mixology experience unique? What type of events are you geared towards?

Avi J. Pusateri is based in New York and can be contacted via email Avi.Joseph. Pusateri@gmail.com, by text 516-880-3627 or on Instagram @jazzagecocktails.

The Jazz Age Cocktails Mixology course is an immersive experience that includes all the fun of going to a bar, with an education on how to make your favorite (or new favorite) cocktails in the comfort of one’s own home. Each mixology course is specifically tailored towards the taste profiles of you and your guests, whether it’s sour, sweet or boozy. You even get to take home the cocktail shakers, jiggers, muddlers, bar towels and recipes so you can recreate your favorite drinks again and again. What is your favorite cocktail and why? If I had to narrow it down to two, I’d pick the French 75 and the Old Fashioned. The French 75 is a well-rounded cocktail from the Prohibition era that has a crisp and clean taste. The Old Fashioned is a pre-Prohibition era cocktail. The recipe, which hasn’t changed since the 1800s (hence the name), has the perfect balance of booziness and sweetness. (See recipes below.) Unlike many businesses negatively affected by COVID, yours began. Can you elaborate? The inability to socialize in a bar setting and a newfound interest in exploring new hobbies and crafts during quarantine sparked this drive to learn mixology. With intimate in-person events, everyone has their own cocktail station. With virtual events, everyone is in the comfort of their own home. I truly enjoy watching people open their eyes to the growing and amazing world of craft cocktails.

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INTERVIEW

French 75 Yield: 1 cocktail

1½ ¾ ½

ounces gin ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice ounce simple syrup Prosecco, chilled Lemon twist, for garnish

Shake gin, lemon juice and simple syrup. Strain into a flute, top with Prosecco and garnish with lemon twist.

Old Fashioned Yield: 1 cocktail

2 ½ 3

ounces bourbon or whiskey ounce simple syrup dashes Angostura bitters Orange twist and lemon twist, for garnish

Stir whiskey, simple syrup and bitters with ice. Strain into a rock glass over a large ice cube and garnish with orange and lemon twist.

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A LO O K I N TO PAU L A S H OY E R'S R E VO LU T I O N A RY N E W C O O K B O O K , T H E I N STA N T P OT ® KO S H E R C O O K B O O K. BY: S H I F R A K L E I N

HIS IS THE FIFTH book from beloved cookbook author Paula Shoyer. Her first two cookbooks (The Kosher Baker and The Holiday Kosher Baker) were centered around Jewish desserts and baking. She has since ventured into savory cookbooks with The Healthy Kosher Kitchen, dedicated to healthy Jewish food, and The Passover Menu. Her latest creation, The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook, includes 100 recipes — all kosher — that utilize the popular multicooker. Like all of Paula’s work, this book, the first kosher cookbook officially endorsed by the Instant Pot® brand, is thorough, well-researched and will take the guesswork out of Instant Pot® cooking.

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The book starts off with everything you need to know about the appliance. In Paula’s view, the Instant Pot® is the modern replacement for the slow cooker, as it allows cooks to achieve the soft, flavor-filled stews of their ancestors with shorter cooking times and without compromising on flavor. The book includes a nice balance of Jewish favorites — stuffed cabbage; corned beef; brisket; cholent; chicken soup; apple cake (yes, you can make a cake in the Instant Pot®!) — and modern recipes with plenty of ethnic flare — Asian noodle soup; risotto; everything bagel chicken wings; orange chicken; and rice lentil dal. The chapters are divided by categories including Breakfast & Brunch; Salads, Dips, Apps; Soups; Meat Mains; Vegetarian Mains; and Sides & Desserts. This book is best for those who have an Instant Pot® already or are thinking about getting one. This collection of detailed, clear and easy-tofollow recipes is the perfect guide for everyday dinners, weekly Shabbos meals and Jewish holidays. There are also wonderful tips and guides throughout the book. Some impressive features are the guide on cooking rice in the Instant Pot®, menu suggestions for the Jewish holidays and the array of baked goods and desserts that can be made in this modern all-in-one cooking appliance.

Q + A

P A U L A

COOKBOOK

S H O Y E R

How did this cookbook come to be?

Fans would constantly ask me for Instant Pot® recipes, so I bought one. After using it maybe three times, I heard about the Kosher Instant Pot® Facebook group (which had 8,700 members at the time). I read the comments and heard people’s frustrations about adapting non-kosher Instant Pot® recipes to kosher. I decided there needed to be a kosher cookbook. Now there are 13,900 members of that group, reflecting the growing number of kosher cooks passionate about the Instant Pot®.

When did you start writing the book? I started that cookbook around January 2019 and completed it in September 2019. There were delays in its release due to COVID but it’s finally being released in February! The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook: 100 Recipes to Nourish Body and Soul Author: Paula Shoyer Published by: Sterling Publishing Page Count: 200 pages Recipe Count: 100 recipes Release Date: Feb 2, 2021 Price: $22.95* *Price on Amazon as of press time. Prices, especially on Amazon, can vary.

How often do you use your Instant Pot® now? I use it almost daily, at least five times a week. I have three — one for dairy and two for meat. I make steel cut oatmeal every week for breakfast, rice a few times a week and stews, beans and other mains regularly. Don’t forget about cholent for Shabbos!

What’s your favorite thing about the Instant Pot®? I have many favorite things! I don’t have to stand over a pot checking anything while it cooks and the cleanup is so easy — I hate washing dishes!

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COOKBOOK

Reprinted with permission from The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook by Paula Shoyer

Everything Bagel BBQ Chicken Wings Years ago I tested recipes for two of Susie Fishbein’s cookbooks and learned that the best way to make chicken wings was to boil them first and then bake them. The Instant Pot® makes the process faster. GLUTEN-FREE, MEAT Hands-on time: 1 minute Time to pressure: 15–17 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes, plus broil for 10 minutes Button to use: pressure cook Release type: quick release Advance prep: may be made 2 days in advance Serves: 6

1 cup (236ml) water 3–4 pounds (1.3–1.8kg) chicken wings 1 cup (236ml) barbecue sauce ½ teaspoon black pepper 3–3½ tablespoons Everything Bagel spice, divided 1. Place the water into the inner pot and add the steam rack. Pile the wings on top. 2. Secure the lid, ensuring that the steam release handle is in the Sealing position. Press the Pressure Cook button and set the cooking time for 5 minutes. When the cooking time is complete, turn the steam release handle to the Venting position to quickly release the pressure. Preheat the oven to broil. Press Cancel and open the lid. 3. Remove the wings to a baking pan. Pour the barbecue sauce and pepper on top and toss to coat. Sprinkle half of the Everything Bagel spice on top. Place the pan into the oven on a rack in the top third of the oven, but not on the oven rack closest to the heat. Broil for 5 minutes. Turn the wings over, and add the remaining Everything Bagel spice and broil for another 5 minutes, or longer until desired browning.

Reprinted with permission from The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook by Paula Shoyer

Honey Cake With Coffee And Honey Glaze It’s not Rosh Hashanah without honey cake and even I, The Kosher Baker, was surprised with how moist this cake was. Japanese and Chinese bakers have steamed cakes for centuries. PARVE Hands-on time: 5 minutes, plus cooling time Time to pressure: 7 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes Button to use: pressure cook Release type: natural release for 15 minutes

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½ ⅓ 3 2 1¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ½ ¼ ¼

GLAZE

Serves: 6–8

½ 2

1 Fleishigs

cup (118ml) prepared strong coffee or espresso cup (118ml) honey cup (79ml) oil tablespoons dark brown sugar large eggs cups (140g) all-purpose flour teaspoon cloves teaspoon ginger teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt

Advance prep: may be made 3 days in advance or frozen

CA K E

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Spray oil to grease pan cup (236ml) water

cup (63g) confectioners’ sugar teaspoons prepared hot espresso or coffee teaspoon honey www.fleishigs.com

Reprinted with permission from The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook by Paula Shoyer

1. Spray a 6- or 7-inch (15cm or 18cm) round pan with oil and set aside. Place the water into the inner pot and insert the steam rack. 2. In a medium bowl place the hot coffee, honey, oil, and brown sugar and whisk well. Add the eggs and mix in. Add the flour, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, and salt and mix well. 3. Pour into the prepared pan. Take a piece of aluminum foil large enough to cover the pan and spray oil on one side. Cover the pan with the greased side facing the cake batter. Cover tightly. Create an aluminum foil sling. Place the pan on top of the foil. 4. Lift the sides of the foil to place the pan onto the rack. Secure the lid, ensuring that the steam release handle is in the Sealing position. Press the Pressure Cook button and set the cooking time for 40 minutes. 5. When the cooking time is complete, let sit for 15 minutes to naturally release the pressure. Turn the steam release handle to the Venting position to release any remaining pressure. Press Cancel. Use the sides of the sling to lift up the cake and remove to a cooling rack. Let cool for 10 minutes and then turn the cake out of the pan onto the cooling rack to cool completely. 6. While the cake is cooling prepare the glaze. Place the confectioners’ sugar into a bowl. Add the coffee and honey and whisk well. Let sit for 5 minutes to thicken. Either spread the glaze on top or use a whisk drizzle lines over the cake.

L’orange Chicken I happened to buy blood oranges by accident the first time I made this chicken, but it is just as good with navel oranges. You can also buy an extra blood orange to garnish the serving platter, as the color is so vibrant. GLUTEN-FREE, MEAT Hands-on time: 20 minutes Prep time: 10 minutes Time to pressure: 13 minutes Cooking time: 12 minutes Buttons to use: saute and pressure cook Release type: quick release Advance prep: may be made 2 days in advance Serves: 4–6

1 1 1

1½ 6 ¼ 2 2

2 1 1 ¼ ¼ ½ 3

tablespoon oil chicken, cut into 8 pieces tablespoon zest of 1 blood or navel orange cup (236ml) fresh orange juice, from 3–4 blood or navel oranges tablespoons chopped fresh ginger; from a 3-inch (7.5cm) long chunk cloves garlic, crushed cup (55g) light brown sugar tablespoons white wine or white grape juice teaspoons Sriracha or other hot sauce tablespoons soy sauce teaspoon toasted sesame oil tablespoon honey teaspoon salt teaspoon black pepper cup (118ml) water tablespoons cornstarch

1. Press Saute and when the display reads “Hot,” add the oil and 3 or 4 pieces of chicken to the inner pot. Brown for about 3 to 4 minutes per side, until golden. Remove to a plate. 2. Meanwhile, in a bowl or measuring cup, place the orange zest and juice, ginger, garlic, brown sugar, wine, Sriracha, soy sauce, sesame oil, honey, salt, and pepper and whisk well. Brown the second batch of chicken as you did the first. Remove to the plate. 3. Add the water to the pot and use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the pot clean. Press Cancel. Return the chicken to the pot, first the dark meat pieces and then the white meat pieces on top. Pour the sauce over the chicken. 4. Secure the lid, ensuring that the steam release handle is in the Sealing position. Press the Pressure Cook button and set the cooking time for 12 minutes. When the cooking time is complete, turn the steam release handle to the Venting position to quickly release the pressure. Press Cancel and remove the lid. 5. Remove the chicken to a serving platter. Press Saute. Scoop up ½ cup (118ml) of the sauce and place into a small bowl. Add the cornstarch, mix well, and return to the pot. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes to thicken the sauce. Taste for salt and pepper and add more if needed. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve. JANUARY 2021

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FEATURE PAGE

Purple yams, popular in many cuisines and referred to by a variety of names, have a smooth, creamy texture when cooked. Not to be confused with Japanese yams, which have a purple skin and white flesh, a purple sweet potato is just that — intensely colored and makes a statement. Purple sweet potatoes can be mashed (see page 23), roasted

or even used in desserts, as is popular in Asian cuisine. While you may be a creature of habit, gravitating towards the traditional produce choices in the market, stop for a minute to peruse the offerings. You may be surprised by the varieties available. Don’t wait for Rosh Hashana to venture outside the box.

R EC I PE IN D E X CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 19 19 20 23 33 41 55 55 55 62 72 72 73 79 79 81 81 81 88 88 88 88 90 93 93 93 93 93 94 98 100 122 122 130

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Parsley Gremolata M Q Homemade Pappardelle FF M Charred Avocado Salsa M Q Garlic Confit M Jalapeño Dip FF M Q Parsley Pesto FF M Q Grapefruit Aioli Q Parsley Panko M Red Pepper Panko M Leek-Beef Fry Topping FF M Q Mayan Pumpkin Seed Salsa Q Caramelized Honeycomb M Q Persimmon BBQ Sauce Orange Cream Beet and Orange Emulsion Apple Tarragon Purée Parsnip Cream M Pomegranate Miso Glaze M Avocado Mousse Red Wine Pickled Onions Fried Capers M Q Bagel Chip Crumbs M Q Chive Oil M Q Black Garlic Paste Black Garlic Demi-Glace Veal Stock Reduction Crispy Maitake Mushrooms M Q Mushroom Purée Artichoke Confit M Maple Onion Cream Caper Remoulade French 75 M Q Old Fashioned M Q Chef’s Top Secret Edible Bowl M Q

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FISH

MEAT

33 Moroccan Fish 79 Salmon Crudo with Beets & Orange 88 Everything Bagel Salmon Crudo Q 98 Seared Sea Bass M Q 100 Gravlax

19 20 23 73 81 90 93

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 23 35 36 40 50 50 52 55 62 62 68 79 79 93 98 105

Garlic Confit Sweet Potato Mash Rainbow Quinoa Q Sesame Carrots FF Perfect Potato Kugel FF M Perfect Poached Eggs M Q Tomato Tartare Mushroom Velouté Seared Endive Citrus Salad Sweet Potato Soup FF Corn Stock Salt-Baked Delicata Squash M Roasted Beets M Beet Chips M Q Crispy Maitake Mushrooms M Q Fennel Radish Slaw M Q Butternut Squash Risotto

Braised Beef Cheeks FF Birria Tacos Mushroom Duxelles Beef Cheek Lamb Ribs FF Apple Cider-Braised Short Ribs FF M Miso-Crusted Beef Carpaccio Sous Vide Boneless Flanken Roast FF

SWEET TREATS 43 43 74 74 83 83 118 118 126

Apple Cider Muffins FF Apple Cider Cake FF Chestnut French Toast Chestnut Purée Meringues with Lemon Curd and Grapefruit Gelée Honeycomb Candy Miso-Glazed Brownies FF Caramelized Pineapple Tarte Tatin Honey Cake With Coffee And Honey Glaze

POULTRY 35 41 81 126 127

Sweet and Sticky Roast Chicken FF Pesto Grilled Chicken FF M Q Fried Chicken Lollipops FF Everything Bagel BBQ Chicken Wings FF M Q L’orange Chicken

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

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LAST BITE

Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Top Secret Edible Bowl You can use this technique to create edible dessert bowls (which work wonderfully for fruit salad, as pictured, or sorbet). Alternatively, break up the rice paper once fried to serve alongside any savory or sweet dish. Heat 2-3 inches of canola oil in a large pan over mediumhigh heat. Working one at a time, gently lower a rice paper wrapper into the hot oil and, using tongs, create a bowl shape by gently pressing into the center of the rice paper. Fry for about 30 seconds until puffed and crisp. Transfer to paper towels to drain and cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Rice paper wrappers are sold dried and can be used for summer rolls once rehydrated in water. They are not the same as egg roll or spring roll wrappers. Look for the Natural Earth Products brand (certified kosher by OU).

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