Fleishigs Magazine Issue 026 - April 2021 by Fleishigs Magazine

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BUTCHER'S CUT

The wonders of oyster steak 10

EDITOR’S LETTER

TRAVEL Visiting Meron on Lag Baomer

30 SOMETHING SWEET Homemade marshmallows

BACK POCKET Many ways to tofu

L'CHAIM Highlighting white wines for spring

PROFILE Ahuva Gottdiener of Homegrown Kosher

86 SEASONAL FEAST The young, hip chefs behind Sol Dining 98 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK The art of winemaking 104 COOKBOOK

SEASONAL

Utilizing seasonal produce and recipes inspired by the spring season

The Marblespoon Cookbook By Vera Newman 108 INTERVIEW Authoring a cookbook during the pandemic 110 GADGETS Tools to tackle the issue 111 PANTRY POPPERS Our favorite ingredients for cooking this issue 112 LAST BITE Tahini Rhubarb Galette 114 RECIPE INDEX

CULINARY SCHOOL

Gardening 101

EDITOR'S LETTER

THE SPRING ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

Get with the season. FORAGING IN CENTRAL PARK a few years ago opened up my eyes to the natural bounty that is available in the world around us, reflecting the changing seasons. As I drive down the Long Island Expressway and spot wild garlic sprouting up off the side of the road, I unequivocally know that spring is in the air. You may even spot me pulled over with the hazards on, pulling what looks like weeds from the ground. Now that Pesach is behind us, spring is officially here and there is an array of seasonal produce and ingredients that come along with this time of year. This issue is dedicated to celebrating the season and introducing some fresh ideas for spring — unique breakfasts, dinners and desserts grace the pages of this issue. Our editor Elisheva Taitz shares some creative ways to enjoy tofu, a vegan, protein-packed blank canvas that, when prepared properly, can really impress. Gardening expert Ahuva Gottdiener joins our culinary school column to share everything you need to know about gardening. Yes, now is the perfect time to start gardening; try starting with herbs — it couldn’t be easier. A few years ago, we planted a bunch of herbs, which have morphed into a mini

EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

backyard garden. We have tomatoes, carrots and jalapeños that usually last through November. It has been a really satisfying experience and the kids love getting involved. Due to COVID and restaurant restrictions, we invited the young, innovative private chefs behind Sol Dining to come cook in our kitchen and showcase what they have to offer. The best perk? Besides for a great story, there are some inspiring, creative recipes for the ambitious home cook. Personally, one of the coolest parts of the issue is the travel feature, where we gain a perspective on Lag Baomer, a unique Jewish holiday that we had yet to cover in previous issues due to timing. Danielle Renov shares her past experiences celebrating this holiday in Israel at the gravesite of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai. Bonfires and marshmallows play a big role in celebrating Lag Baomer, so we enlisted the help of Melinda Strauss, who has perfected homemade marshmallows. Trust me, it is well worth it. Wherever you are in the world, we hope that this season of renewal brings a renewed sense of growth and promise to your home. Bitayavon, Shifra

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Gabi Nachman CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Dear eater of meat, rejector of milk, words to you we bring and the ability to try a plethora of new things. Your kitchen skills we hone, allowing you to make dishes good down to the bone. Our pictures are fly, our recipes easy, our lemons squeezy. Our articles, like a good babka, are layered and juicy. You see, it’s all for you — the one who reads, makes, bakes and takes the cake. This issue was designed to the mellow and gentle stylings of Blink-182, Zohar Argov and Audioslave.

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BY:B-SH PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER LET’S TALK ABOUT oyster steaks. Like most cuts with interesting names, you will find one cut with different names in various butcher shops. Luckily, however, there are three main cuts you will find that can be called oyster steak. The most typical oyster steak traditionally sold in kosher supermarkets is the teres major, a torpedo-shaped muscle from the chuck primal, which is cut from the shoulder clod. These steaks are small, usually weighing 1-2 pounds each. They are also very lean and tender, so they

should not be cooked more than medium. Some butchers also sell flat iron steak labeled as oyster steak, or more correctly, oyster blade steak. The oyster blade steak also comes from the chuck primal and is cut from the top blade roast, which is sold in kosher markets as a minute roast. These 3-4 pound steaks typically have a decent amount of intramuscular fat, making them tender and forgiving of being cooked to higher temperatures. In this feature, we are focusing on the most typical 1-2 pound oyster steak.

TRADITIONAL OYSTER STEAKS This cut is usually not kosher and only eaten by those who consume treibored meat (meat slaughtered by a skilled shochet who is trained to slaughter the back half of the steer). It can be found between the hip bones and spine of the steer and is a tender, well-marbled cut that is not very well known. Similar to oysters found on chickens, these flavorful and fatty oyster-shaped muscles can be sourced from one or two kosher online vendors, but would not be found at your local butcher. It is recommended to ask your local rabbi to see if it suits your kashrut.

BUTCHER'S CUT

A LITTLE OF LOT’S WIFE CAN WORK WONDERS THE MAGIC OF A SALT CURE

A natural flavor enhancer, salt is in almost everything we eat and is also the only thing that penetrates into meat past the outer ⅛ of an inch. Given time, salt decreases water movement within a piece of meat and bonds to water molecules, resulting in a juicier steak. Salt also causes the proteins to loosen, which results in a more tender steak. That is why I recommend salt curing steak, especially leaner cuts. Because it is a more laborious, time intensive process, it may not be for everyone, but is a cool project for the adventurous cook to try.

HOW TO SALT CURE Weigh the steak and measure 1% of that weight in kosher salt. (For example, a 2-pound steak weighs 907 grams. 907 x .01 = 9 grams of salt, which would measure about 3 teaspoons if using Diamond Crystal kosher salt or 2 teaspoons if using Morton’s kosher salt.) Rub the meat with salt, seal in a Ziploc bag and refrigerate for three days. If time is an issue, one hour should be the minimum. The longer the steak sits in the cure, the further the salt can penetrate into the protein and the better the results.

B-sh was trained as a butcher at 16 years old by third generation butchers and worked for various caterers throughout college. He taught himself the art of smoking and charcuterie making and has consulted various high-end restaurants in the New York area on making charcuterie,

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building aging chambers and everything else related to meat. Currently, B-sh is learning shechita and nikkur from Rabbi Avidan Elkin of Bisra Meats and runs two Facebook groups entitled "What Kosher Cut is it Really" and "Kosher Sous Vide." Follow him on instagram @boshsmeat.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Sous Vide Oyster Steak with Blistered Fingerling Potatoes with Cilantro Chimichurri Serves: 4

This recipe has you cook the potatoes in the sous vide at a high temperature, adding the steak after about an hour at a lower temperature. This allows you to utilize the sous vide to accommodate the various cooking times and temperatures and end up with an impressive dinner of steak and potatoes. FO R T H E ST E A K:

2 2 2

(1-pound) oyster steaks teaspoons kosher salt tablespoons grapeseed or canola oil, for searing

FO R T H E P OTATO E S :

2 2 3 1 1

pounds fingerling potatoes tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for searing cloves garlic, minced tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Cilantro Chimichurri, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Rub steak all over with kosher salt, seal in a Ziploc bag and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. For best results, refrigerate for 72 hours. When ready to cook, preheat sous vide to 185°F. 2. Toss potatoes with olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. Seal in a Ziploc bag or with a vacuum sealer. Place in the sous vide and weigh down with sous vide weights or another bag with a heavy object, making sure not to block the flow of water around the potatoes. Cook for 1 hour. 3. After 1 hour, add ice water to the sous vide until the water cools down to 131°F. Add the bag of steak to the bath and cook for 2 hours. 4. Transfer bags to a bowl of ice water and shock for 30 seconds. 5. Remove meat from the bag and pat dry with paper towels. Heat a thin layer of oil in a cast iron pan over high heat and sear on both sides just until golden, about 1-2 minutes total. Transfer to a plate, then sear potatoes, adding more oil to the pan if necessary. Alternatively, torch steak and potatoes using a kitchen torch. Serve with chimichurri.

Cilantro Chimichurri Yield: 1½ cups

Blend 1 bunch fresh cilantro, 1 bunch fresh parsley, 5 garlic cloves, ½ tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes, ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil and 2 teaspoons kosher salt until smooth.

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T IL ES BY: T IL EBA R .CO M

BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Grilled Oyster Steak Sandwiches with Caramelized Mushrooms and Onions Serves: 4

You can serve individual sandwiches or create a make-your-ownsteak sandwich platter. 2 1 ½ 1 8

(1-pound) oyster steaks teaspoons kosher salt tablespoon grapeseed oil slices crusty sourdough bread, for serving Garlic Horseradish Mayo, for serving (recipe follows) Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms (recipe follows)

R VE NE

NE. ANYO RT HU

1. Rub steak all over with kosher salt and oil. Heat grill to high heat. Sear steak for 5-6 minutes per side, then let rest for 15 minutes. 2. Slice steak thinly against the grain. Spread mayo on sourdough and top with sliced steak and caramelized onions and mushrooms. H AV E M O R E T I M E ? T RY I N D I R ECT G R I L L I N G :

Heat a gas grill with a hot zone and cool zone (225°F). Grill steak over indirect heat until it reaches an internal temperature of 125°F, approximately 30 minutes per pound. Let steaks rest for 15 minutes, then sear on the hot zone for 30-60 seconds per side.

Garlic Horseradish Mayo Blend 6 garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ cup mayonnaise until smooth. If desired, add 1 seeded habanero pepper.

Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a cast iron skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add 3 sliced Vidalia onions, 8 ounces sliced baby bella mushrooms, 2 minced garlic cloves and 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Sauté, stirring constantly, for about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring every 10 minutes, until the onions and mushroom become dark and golden brown.

Smoked Oyster Steak Kebabs Serves: 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a main

While smoking the kebabs takes the flavor profile to another level, they are delicious grilled or broiled as well.

¼ ¼ 2 1½ 1

cup malt or apple cider vinegar cup olive oil teaspoons whole grain mustard teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon dried rosemary

1 1 1 2 1 1 1 8

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon dried basil teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon granulated garlic pounds oyster steak, cut into 1-inch pieces red peppers, cut into chunks yellow pepper, cut into chunks red onion, cut into wedges ounces baby bella mushrooms, wiped clean with a damp paper towel

1. Whisk vinegar, oil, mustard and spices. Add steak and vegetables and toss to coat. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. 2. Thread meat and vegetables onto skewers as desired. Heat smoker to 275°F and smoke kebabs for 30 minutes. APRIL 2021

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TRAVEL

(day of passing) of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai (also known as Rashbi), an esteemed disciple of Rabbi Akiva and author of the Zohar, is on Lag Baomer (the 33rd day of the omer — the seven week period between Pesach and Shavuos). While the omer is a relatively somber period (no haircuts, no celebrations, etc.), Lag Baomer, the midway point, is marked by celebration. Many have the custom to visit Rashbi’s grave in Meron on Lag Baomer, where it’s said that the souls of the righteous come to dance. We have been going as a family for over ten years, collecting many special memories. Just north of Naharia, south of Tzfat and a few hour drive from Jerusalem, Rashbi’s kever (grave) is set on top of Mount Meron.

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TRAVEL

Dovi, Meir and Leah Baila Renov roasting marshmallows over a Lag Baomer bonfire with Nicole "Meme" Gleitman

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TRAVEL

GETTING THERE

Many avoid Meron on Lag Baomer because of the traffic. Typically, it could take about 2.5-3 hours from Jerusalem, but on Lag Baomer it could take 4-4.5 hours. There is public transportation, of course. Parking used to be a nightmare, but in recent years, tons of parking has been conveniently set up along the highway in designated areas and buses shuttle you most of the way (the parking and shuttle is one small combined fee). The shuttle drops you off at the foot of the mountain and then you walk up, which takes about eight minutes. It’s pretty steep, but we have done it with strollers and kids. This has all made the experience infinitely easier. There also happens to be a hiking trail that runs from Tzfat to Meron, which takes a few hours — perfect for the adventurous hiker. THE FOOD

Here are a few strategies that I have amassed over the years to make the trip to Meron successful: HOW TO VISIT

You can go and return the same night in order to spend Lag Baomer day wherever you live. While the experience of being in Meron at night is unlike anything I’ve ever encountered, the volume of people and the crowds can be overwhelming. I would not recommend this option if visiting with kids. Others camp out to be there both for the celebrations at night and on Lag Baomer day itself. The final option, and the one we prefer the most, is leaving in the morning and spending the day there, which is the most familyfriendly way to visit Meron on Lag Baomer. To get there, we usually rent a coach bus with friends, which makes it very convenient. 26

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We bring burgers and hot dogs and make a big barbecue. Marshmallows to roast on the bonfire are a must! At the base of the mountain is a small market, a restaurant and bathrooms. On Lag Baomer, stands are set up that sell drinks, snacks and ices on the way up the mountain. However, I recommend bringing plenty of snacks and drinks. THE KEVER

The men congregate by the kever itself. The women’s section is located at the top of the kever, which has the best view of the big bonfire and it is the ideal location to be in for the concerts; some of the best singers have played in Meron and, in our family, Lag Baomer means the best music. It’s customary to daven and say tehillim, so as you are davening amidst a sea of people united in prayer, women are crying and the powerful, uplifting music plays simultaneously in the background. It seems funny to daven alongside music, but it truly ignites a fire inside your soul. As the day comes to an end, we light our own bonfire in the forest, make a barbecue and roast marshmallows. The singing and dancing is so inspiring. It’s one of my favorite holidays. www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

Danielle davening at Rashbi's kever

Dovi Renov (with uncle Benji Renov) on the way down the mountain after his upsherin

THE MEANING

Being at Rashbi’s kever on Lag Baomer is considered an extremely auspicious time, an eis ratzon (a time of favor). It’s said that the souls of all the previous tzadikim are at the kever on Lag Baomer, so the hope is that prayers are answered in their merit. Jews from all levels of religious observance make the trek — everyone is welcome. To see Jews from all over the world and all walks of life is just amazing and shows Rashbi’s influence and reach. The lighting of the main bonfire in Meron marks the start of Lag Baomer and it’s constantly re-ignited throughout Lag Baomer day by various Rabbis. There is a custom to hold an upsherin (a Jewish boy’s first haircut upon turning three years old, which marks their formal entrance into Jewish life) at Rashbi’s kever for Jewish boys with birthdays in the weeks leading up to Lag Baomer. We were fortunate enough to hold our son Dovi’s upsherin there, as his birthday is a few days before Lag Baomer. Jews from across the globe (literally) flock to the kever to partake in this mitzvah.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Last year, visiting Meron on Lag Baomer was largely forbidden due to COVID-19 restrictions. At press time, a decision had not yet been made about whether visitors would be allowed this year. We felt it was important to gather Danielle’s personal account regardless.

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The shloshim (30 days from burial) for our baby fell out on Lag Baomer and I was reluctant to go that year. However, our Rabbi insisted and told us that Yaakov Rafael, a”h, will be there dancing with all the tzadikim of our past. I was extremely hesitant to experience the joy, music and dancing while still being in a state of grief and mourning, but we went anyway and davened and cried our eyes out. The fact that joyous music and praying from a place of such pain can coexist in the same experience is something only Hashem could curate. In the zechus of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, we should all experience revealed blessings; while it’s amazing to physically be in Meron during that time, praying with such fervor can be done from anywhere.

Danielle Renov was born and raised in New York and brings her Moroccan and Mediterranean-inspired recipes to a worldwide audience out of her Jerusalem home. Danielle shares her love of cooking through videos, recipe developing and cooking demos with a huge smile and laughter. Danielle’s popular new book, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook, released in July 2020 by Artscroll, reflects her cooking style and infectious personality. Danielle can be reached through Instagram @peaslovencarrots and her website peaslovencarrots.com.

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THE KEY TO A successful s’more is the humble pillowy marshmallow. Sure, you can buy them pre-packaged from a store, but there is nothing like a homemade fluffy one. This recipe is extra special because there are no egg whites and no corn syrup. While the process of making them is easy and quick, having the patience to wait until they’re set is not. Here is my homemade vanilla marshmallow recipe and a few fun things you can do with the finished product, besides eating them straight up!

It’s crucial to have a candy thermometer when making marshmallows from scratch. Investing in a small kitchen torch is so worth it. What makes homemade marshmallows even better is toasting them with some fire!

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Homemade Vanilla Marshmallows Yield: 1 (9x13-inch) pan

2 ½ ½

cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted, divided tablespoons unflavored kosher gelatin powder (see page 111 for more information) cups sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking dish, line with parchment paper and dust all over with about ½ cup confectioners’ sugar. Set aside. 2. Add gelatin and ½ cup cold water to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set aside for the gelatin to bloom. 3. Add sugar, ½ cup water and salt to a pot fitted over medium heat. Attach a candy thermometer and stir occasionally until the temperature reaches 240°F. Remove from heat immediately. 4. With the mixer running on low, slowly pour the sugar syrup into the gelatin mixture. Mix until combined, then increase to high speed and beat until thick and fluffy, about 10-12 minutes. Add vanilla in the last minute. The mixture should resemble soft-serve ice cream. 5. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish, spreading evenly with a lightly greased spatula. Smooth out the top and dust with ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar. Allow marshmallows to sit at room temperature for 6-12 hours. 6. Once set, turn the pan out onto a work surface dusted with some of the remaining confectioners’ sugar. The marshmallows should come right out. Cut into even squares with a sharp knife dusted with more confectioners’ sugar, then lightly dust each marshmallow on all sides with more confectioners’ sugar. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

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SOMETHING SWEET

MOUNT VEYUMMINESS S’mores Brownie Lava Cake Serves: 8

This isn’t your everyday lava cake. The batter is thick like a brownie and filled with homemade marshmallows and graham cracker crumbs. And no one will say no if you add a dollop of peanut butter in there too. I know I wouldn’t! 1 12 2½ 4 2 1

cup non-dairy butter substitute ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped cups confectioners’ sugar large eggs + 6 egg yolks teaspoons pure vanilla extract cup all-purpose flour Homemade (recipe above) or store bought marshmallows, cut into bite-sized pieces cup crushed graham crackers

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease 8 ramekins and set aside. 2. Melt butter and chocolate in the microwave in 30-second increments or in a double boiler. 3. Transfer chocolate to a mixing bowl and stir in confectioners’ sugar. Add eggs, egg yolks and vanilla and whisk to combine. Fold in flour until just incorporated. 4. Divide half the batter between the ramekins. Top with a piece of marshmallow and crushed graham cracker pieces, then top with remaining batter. Bake for 10 minutes, until the sides are firm and the centers are soft.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Campfire Peanut Butter S’mores Cones Instead of traditional s’mores cooked over a fire, try these cones instead. They can be made in the oven, on the grill or over a campfire. Prepare the cones in advance or set up on a board and everyone can prepare their own.

Waffle cones Creamy peanut butter (alternative options: almond butter, sunflower seed butter, cookie butter) Homemade marshmallows, cut into bite-sized pieces, or store bought mini marshmallows Chocolate chips Additional fillings: bananas, strawberries, white chocolate chips

1. Preheat oven to 350°F or set up a campfire or grill. 2. Using a mini offset spatula, line each cone with peanut butter. Fill with marshmallows and chocolate chips and any additional desired toppings. Wrap each cone tightly with foil. 3. Cook for 5-7 minutes in the oven or on a grill or 3-5 minutes at the edge of a campfire. 4. Carefully unwrap, grab a spoon and dig in!

Melinda Strauss is a content creator focused on food, Jewish lifestyle, personal growth and health goals. The best places to find Melinda are on TikTok and Instagram @therealmelindastrauss. On her website melindastrauss. com you will find original recipes, food photography, health coaching and inspiring stories.

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BACK POCKET

B Y :

E L I S H E V A

GROWING UP, I don’t remember ever disliking any major food groups (unless bananas count!). Besides for some allergies in our family, no food was off limits. My mom was an amazing, inventive cook and “kid food” was rarely something we craved. We were eating all sorts of now “trendy” foods as early as I can remember — quinoa, kale, tofu — in all sorts of forms. I credit my parents for my palate and I’ve always been open to trying anything. Tofu, a true family favorite, is one 36

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T A I T Z

of those foods that you either love or hate. Let’s be honest — it doesn’t have the best reputation. I find (after having converted many a tofu hater) that if treated right and cooked properly, tofu, which has a very subtle taste on its own, simply absorbs the flavors of whatever you’re making. I am here to prove that tofu knows no bounds. It transcends your typical stir fry and can be used to make stellar breakfasts, lunches, dinners, desserts and everything in between. www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

OFU IS RUMORED to have originated in China over 2,000 years ago, as far back as the Han Dynasty. It slowly migrated and became a staple in many countries across Asia, with each region having its own method of production, cookery and usage. Tofu is a processed soybean product made of soybeans that are soaked, ground, boiled and coagulated. Similar to cheesemaking, the curds are then pressed into solid white blocks of varying textures: silken, soft, firm and extra firm. Silken and soft tofu varieties are extremely soft to the touch with a milky texture and can be used to thicken and add creaminess to soups, dressings and desserts (yes, really!). Firm and extra firm tofu are best stir fried or baked for savory applications. You can even buy packaged already baked or fried tofu, which is convenient to keep on hand for quick meals. Tofu is so lauded in certain Asian cuisines that even the tofu by-products are considered delicacies, such as “tofu skin” (otherwise known as “tofu bamboo”), which is often used as imitation chicken or meat or stuffed and fried. Tofu skin is also sometimes served with congee, a traditional rice porridge dish. Soy pulp is also used in Korean and Japanese cuisines in stews and even ice cream. Tofu benefits from being pressed to extract

IT IS LOW IN FAT A N D H A S N O CHOLESTEROL, MAKING IT A G R E AT A LT E R N AT I V E TO M E AT O R CHICKEN.

excess moisture. There are fancy gadgets on the market to aid this process, but some old fashioned plates and heavy cans do the trick. Put a block of tofu on a plate, top with another plate and a small pot; place some cans in the pot and let it sit for 10 minutes, then drain off the moisture. Repeat if necessary, then pat dry with paper towels and proceed with the recipe. The more firm the tofu, the less excess moisture there is. While tofu is high in protein and iron, it is still a processed soy product, so it should be avoided by anyone who doesn’t eat soy. It is low in fat and has no cholesterol, making it a great alternative to meat or chicken. A few years ago, my parents adopted a strictly vegan diet, which forced them to become even more creative in the kitchen than they already were. While I am not suggesting an entire tofu-based menu for one meal, the recipes that follow are inspired by them and will hopefully inspire you to go outside of your comfort zone and try some new things! NOTE: My favorite brand is Trader Joe’s organic sprouted tofu or Nasoya organic; both are a 15.5 ounce 2-pack. Sprouted tofu is easier to digest and higher in protein, calcium and iron. I typically drain it from the water, then just pat dry without pressing. APRIL 2021

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BACK POCKET

Breakfast Tofu Scramble Serves: 4-6

My father, who used to be able to “out meat” any of us, has been a strict vegan for almost five years now. While I still ask him to carve my meat for me (no one with just a knife carves a corned beef as precisely as he does), he won’t touch the stuff. He has, however, perfected the tofu scramble. Feel free to be creative here and treat it as you would any scrambled eggs — add in whatever vegetables you have on hand. 2 1 2 2 2 1 1 2 3 1

tablespoons unsweetened nondairy milk tablespoon smoked paprika teaspoons hawaij or turmeric teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil small onion, diced red bell pepper, diced (15.5-ounce) packages extra-firm tofu, pressed and/or patted dry tablespoons nutritional yeast cup baby spinach, chopped Sliced tomato and/or avocado, for serving Toasted bread, for serving

1. Whisk non-dairy milk, paprika, hawaij and salt; set aside. 2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add diced onion and pepper and sauté for 3 minutes, until lightly translucent. In the meantime, tear the tofu with your fingers to create uneven crumbles; alternatively, mash with a potato masher or fork. For very fine crumbles, grate on a box grater. 3. Add tofu to the pan, followed by nutritional yeast. Sauté, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes. Pour milk mixture over tofu and stir to coat. Sauté for another 5 minutes until tofu is lightly browned. 4. Add spinach and sauté until just wilted. Season with more salt, if desired. Serve with sliced tomato and avocado and toasted bread. APRIL 2021

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G E T B A C K TO Y O UR R O O TS

(DELICIOUS, DELICIOUS ROOTS)

Roasted Garlic Sunchoke Soup Serves: 4-6

Sunchokes, otherwise known as Jerusalem artichokes (but having no relation to Jerusalem or artichokes), are a tuberous root vegetable high in iron and potassium. While they resemble fresh ginger, sunchokes taste like a cross between a potato and an artichoke heart. They are delicious roasted, mashed and used in soups. When making blended soups, I often use canned full-fat, unsweetened coconut milk to add extra creaminess. One day, while making a non-dairy tomato soup, I didn’t have any coconut milk, so I decided to add some silken tofu. Once blended, the results were spectacular. While it would still be excellent without, it’s even creamier this way. N OT E : If you can’t find sunchokes, use Yukon gold potatoes.

2 1 1 ½ 2 1 1 ¼

tablespoons olive oil large onion, diced tablespoon + 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper small heads cauliflower, florets only, roughly chopped kohlrabi, peeled and diced pound sunchokes, peeled and diced cup white wine

15 2 4-5 8

cloves Roasted Garlic (recipe follows) bay leaves cups vegetable broth or water ounces silken tofu Crispy Sunchoke Chips (recipe follows) Freshly ground black pepper, for garnish Dill, for garnish Extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, about 5-7 minutes. Season with 2 teaspoons of salt and pepper. Add cauliflower, kohlrabi and sunchokes. Season with the remaining tablespoon of salt and sauté for another minute. 2. Deglaze the pan with white wine, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Sauté for another 3 minutes. Add roasted garlic cloves, bay leaves and enough broth or water to just cover the vegetables. Cover pot, bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Discard bay leaves. Add silken tofu, then blend using an immersion blender or high-powered blender. 3. Season with additional salt and pepper, if desired. Garnish soup with Crispy Sunchoke Chips, black pepper, torn dill and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Roasted Garlic

Crispy Sunchoke Chips

Preheat oven to 400°F. Place 15 peeled garlic cloves in a small baking dish and add enough olive oil to just cover. Add ¼ teaspoon kosher salt. Loosely cover and cook for 15 minutes, until golden.

Peel and thinly slice ½ pound sunchokes. Heat a thin layer of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the sunchokes and fry until golden. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle immediately with kosher salt.

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ET TU TOFU? Vegan Caesar Salad with Tofu “Croutons” Serves: 2-4

This ain’t no ordinary Caesar salad. Not only is it vegan, it’s gluten-free as well. My method for cooking tofu makes it super crispy, lending itself to serve as a crouton. The vegan Caesar dressing and vegan Parmesan are packed with flavor and might make it the best salad you’ve ever had.

1 1

head Tuscan, curly or purple kale, roughly chopped (discard tough stems) head romaine, cored and roughly chopped Vegan Caesar Dressing (recipe follows) Tofu “Croutons” (recipe follows) Vegan Parmesan (recipe follows) cup grape tomatoes, halved, optional

Lightly massage kale with some of the dressing, then add romaine and toss with additional dressing. Top with Tofu "Croutons," Vegan Parmesan and tomatoes, if using.

Tofu “Croutons” Serves: 2-4

Any oil will work here, I just love the nutty flavor that toasted sesame oil imparts into the tofu.

1 1 1

(15.5 ounce) container extra-firm tofu tablespoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon kosher salt

1. Place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 500°F. Once it reaches temperature, leave the pan in the oven for 10 minutes. 2. Cut tofu into planks, about ½ inch thick. If using the 2 pack, make sure the firmer side is facing up prior to cutting. Pat dry on both sides. 3. Carefully remove pan from oven and quickly drizzle on the sesame oil. Immediately put tofu planks onto the pan and use a pastry brush to brush any excess oil onto the top of the tofu. Sprinkle with kosher salt. 4. Return pan to the oven and cook for 20 minutes, then flip and cook for another 10 minutes. Let cool, then cut as desired.

Vegan Caesar Dressing Yield: ¾ cup

This vegan Caesar dressing is full of flavor from miso, nutritional yeast and Dijon mustard — you won’t miss the anchovies (though there must be a purist or two among us). The texture, however, comes from the silken tofu, which is the base, creating an irresistibly delicious mock Caesar dressing without the raw eggs. Serve over a salad or as a dip with crudité. I dare you to make it last! 8 2 2 1 ½ ¼ ¼

ounces silken tofu tablespoons white miso tablespoons nutritional yeast teaspoon whole grain mustard Zest and juice of 1 lemon cup avocado or grapeseed oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Using a high-powered blender, blend tofu, miso, nutritional yeast, whole grain mustard, lemon zest and lemon juice until smooth. With the motor running, stream in olive oil and ¼ cup water. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Thin out with additional water, if desired.

Vegan Parmesan Yield: Heaping 1 cup

The first time my mom made this vegan “Parmesan” about four years ago, I immediately hijacked the jar for myself. Needless to say, it didn’t last very long. I like to store it in a shaker jar in the fridge and use it to top salads, soup and pasta. Any combination of nuts can work, but pine nuts truly add a lot to the texture and flavor. N OT E : I use a mini prep food processor to make this; you don’t want to grind it into powder, rather it should still have texture.

Add ¾ cup raw unsalted mixed nuts (I prefer cashews, almonds and Brazil nuts), ¼ cup pine nuts, 3 tablespoons nutritional yeast, ¼ teaspoon garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika and ½ teaspoon kosher salt to a food processor; pulse until coarsely ground.

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Tofu and Eggplant in Basil Garlic Sauce Serves: 4

This recipe is largely inspired by Beverly Hills Thai, one of the best kosher restaurants that I’ve ever visited. The food is light, fresh and intensely flavorful. Feel free to replace the tofu with chicken or meat or simply make the vegetables for a stellar side. N OT E S :

• Eggplant benefits greatly from being treated before cooking, so don’t skip that step! • Instead of soy sauce, which I find to be overly salty and overbearing, I have been using San-J low-sodium tamari sauce for years. Since it’s made from fermented soybeans and not wheat like traditional soy sauce, it’s naturally gluten-free. It has a much deeper, sweeter flavor than soy sauce. Coconut aminos is a great option too. • Haricot vert refers to French green beans that are "stringless" and don't need to be trimmed, making prep much easier.

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• Japanese eggplants are much lighter in color and more slender than regular eggplant and can be found in most supermarkets. If you can’t find, use 1 regular eggplant instead. ¾ ⅓ ¼ 1

2 1 3 2 ½ ¼ 1 2

½ 8 1

cup tamari cup sweet chili sauce or ketchup (or a combination of both) cup honey tablespoon + 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoons rice vinegar tablespoon grated ginger Japanese eggplants, cubed teaspoons kosher salt, divided cup all-purpose flour cup cornstarch tablespoon ground ginger (15-ounce) packages extra-firm tofu, pressed or patted dry Oil, for frying pound haricot vert cloves garlic, finely minced bunch basil, chopped, for garnish

1. Combine tamari, sweet chili sauce, honey, sesame oil, rice vinegar and grated ginger and set aside. 2. Place the cubed eggplant in a colander

or on a cutting board. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and toss to coat. Let sit for 15 minutes, then pat dry. 3. Combine flour, cornstarch, ginger and remaining teaspoon of salt in a 2-gallon Ziploc bag. Cube tofu and add to the flour mixture. Shake to coat. 4. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add tofu (making sure not to add too much excess flour mixture) and fry until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. 5. Wipe out the pan and add another thin layer of oil. Fry eggplant in a single layer and cook (without disturbing) until golden on one side, about 3-5 minutes. Add haricot vert and garlic and sauté for another 3 minutes, adding more oil if necessary. 6. Add tofu back to the pan and pour in the sauce. Cook on high heat, tossing to coat until sauce thickens. Garnish with fresh basil. OV E N - F R I E D TO F U: Coat tofu as directed and arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer. Spray with nonstick cooking spray and cook in a 450°F oven for 25 minutes.

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Tahini Chocolate Mousse with Black Sesame Brittle

1. Melt chocolate over a double boiler or in 30 second increments in the microwave, until fully melted. Stir in maple syrup, tahini, vanilla extract and salt.

Serves: 6

2. Blend tofu in a high-powered blender until smooth. Add chocolate mixture and blend until fully incorporated.

Silken tofu is a magic ingredient and is credited for creating the creamiest vegan chocolate mousse out there. It’s a great option for those who crave a rich chocolate mousse without the raw eggs. This is my version, elevated with tahini, of course, and a crisp brittle for texture.

3. Transfer mousse into glasses, cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours. Before serving, top with brittle and shredded halva.

N OT E : To drive the chocolate flavor even further, use chocolate tahini (such as Soom).

2 2 1 2 ½ 1

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cups semisweet chocolate chips tablespoons maple syrup tablespoon tahini teaspoons pure vanilla extract teaspoon kosher salt (16-ounce) package silken tofu Salted Black Sesame Brittle, for serving (recipe follows) Shredded halva, for serving

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Salted Black Sesame Brittle Yield: 1 cup

My friend and fellow editor Chana Zelda Weiss had the idea of adding a sesame brittle to the otherwise single-textured mousse, which craves a crunch factor. She was not wrong. I prefer a thinner brittle, but to make a thicker version, which reminds me of the sesame candy my grandfather always had around, just add more sesame seeds, a little bit at a time. Of course, you can use white sesame seeds for this or a combination of both. ¾ ¼ ½

cup sugar cup black sesame seeds teaspoon Maldon salt

1. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and spray an offset spatula with nonstick cooking spray. Set aside. 2. Combine sugar and 1 tablespoon water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir with a rubber spatula until sugar starts to crystallize — be patient! Continue stirring occasionally until it reaches a dark golden color and the sugar is completely dissolved (about 300°F on a candy thermometer). 3. Quickly stir in ¼ cup black sesame seeds and immediately pour onto the prepared baking sheet. Using the greased offset spatula, spread the brittle into a thin layer and sprinkle with Maldon salt while still warm. 4. Let brittle cool at room temperature for 30 minutes, then break into shards.

THE MOUSSE IS LOOSE.

Elisheva Taitz is a wife and mother to three children, full-time Payroll/ HR Manager by day, food writer, recipe developer and Fleishigs editor by night. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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B Y: N AO M I R O SS

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THE BOX IS never the same. I lean over and peer in to find this week’s offerings — a head of green leaf lettuce, red leaf lettuce, parsley, peppery baby arugula, a colorful bunch of rainbow Swiss chard and a few salad turnips. The beginning of the spring season is always heavy on the greens. After 10 years of subscribing to my local CSA* farm share, I have learned to roll with the seasons and the changing landscape of the produce that is harvested. Being a member has also unknowingly helped me develop an awareness of what is being grown at different points in the season and what to expect. While it’s true that we live in a global market and one can pretty much get the same items all year round (there are no seasons in the supermarket!), that doesn’t mean it will taste or cost the same all year. Eating seasonally is essentially an agreement with nature

— nature dictates what’s on my menu as the year cycles through and I get to eat the freshest and most flavorful versions of what grows locally. That’s not to say that I don’t appreciate having access to mangoes (which will never grow in NY!), but it does mean that when tomatoes are at their ripest and sweetest, it’s the right time to showcase my best caprese salad or bruschetta. Timing and temperature play a crucial role in a farmer’s planning and planting of crops. Farmers plan a succession of crops that must be timed throughout the growing season and each planting must come to harvest during its optimal harvest period. Cool-season crops grow best when the air and soil temperatures average 60 to 75°F. That’s a big reason they start with greens that are “cool season crops,” which can be planted early and grow and yield quickly. After a long,

cold winter, you wouldn’t want to wait any longer than necessary to grow and harvest fresh food either! By the time farmers are harvesting the early spring plantings, they are already seeding the next batch of warmer-season crops. And so it continues… Cooking seasonally also means making the most of any surplus that the season has to offer. When the farmers’ market gives you too many peas, think about freezing them for a winter’s day. Pickling is a great preservation method for an array of vegetables like carrots or radishes or even lemons (preserved lemons are a delicacy in many cuisines). Compotes, conserves and dips not only preserve but also add special condiments or accoutrements to your table. In other words, in partnering with nature’s bounty, your cooking and eating will get better as a result. And that puts a spring in everyone’s step.

*CSA = Community Supported Agriculture, a system that connects local farmers with consumers. Consumers pay a fee to a farm and get a weekly share of the crop. Visit localharvest.org for more information or to find a CSA near you.

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SEASONAL

LE T T UCE SHOW YOU THE WAY RED AND GREEN LEAF LETTUCE

Perfect for salad, this variety is more tender and flavorful than romaine. It’s delicate, so dress right before serving.

S P I N AC H

SW I SS C H A R D

Sweet, delicate and mild and perfect raw or cooked. Best cooked right before serving.

Tougher than spinach with a more bitter flavor. The colorful stems are edible — cook stems separately to prevent overcooking leaves.

KALE

A RU G U L A

PA RS L E Y

Sturdy and tough darker green that benefits from a “massage” with dressing to be eaten raw. It can stand up to longer cooking times, so kale is great for soups and sautés.

Zesty, peppery and delicate. Best for raw salads or for sandwiches and pizzas.

An all-around herb for cooking and garnishing. Works well in pesto.

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T I PS FO R G R E E N S :

• Keep your greens crisp and dry! After thoroughly soaking, washing and checking your greens to remove any dirt and insects, use a salad spinner or clean dish towel to dry them. Once properly dried, wrap in paper towels and store in plastic storage bags in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. • Greens go limp and the edges darken if cut with a knife; instead of cutting, tear into bite-sized pieces with your fingers. Alternatively, use a serrated plastic salad knife (see page 110).

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SEASONAL

EAT Y ER V EG E TA B LE S P E AS

FAVA B E A N S

SCA L L I O N S

Peas come in many forms (snap, snow, garden) and are in season in the spring and continue in most areas well into summer. They are time consuming to shuck, but lovely to add to salads, pastas, stews and frittatas.

A Mediterranean favorite with a growing fan base in the United States, fava beans are large pods with meaty beans. Blanching the shucked beans helps to remove the outer skins.

Provides a fresh onion flavor to any dish. Use white parts for cooking and dark green parts for salads and garnishing.

AS PA R AG U S

KO H L R A B I

A quick roast or sauté is all that is needed. Cut off and discard ½-1” at the base of the stalks, which can be tough.

Crunchy like a radish when eaten raw and perfect paired with fresh herbs in salads. Can be used in purées when cooked and tastes similar to cauliflower.

R A D I S H O R SA L A D TURNIP

Sweet and crunchy with a slight kick. At their peak freshness in the spring season.

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SEASONAL

YOU ARE W H AT YOU E AT ST R AW B E R R I E S

R H U BA R B

LEMONS

Peak season is April through June. Due to their high water content, berries spoil quickly. Store with paper towels and do not wash until right before using.

The first fruit of spring in many areas — look for heavy red stalks with smooth skin. Also referred to as a “pie plant,” rhubarb is too tart to eat raw and best cooked with lots of sugar or paired with other sweet fruits like strawberries.

At their peak from winter into early summer.

Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor and food writer and the Culinary Director at Apron Masters Kitchen in Woodmere, NY. She teaches classes throughout the tri-state area and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. Follow her on Instagram @naomirosscooks or visit her website koshercookingconcepts.com

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B Y: S H I F R A K L E I N

After spending a year in Israel in my teens, I gained a new outlook on breakfast. What was once barely a meal became a feast in its own right. Starting the day with a filling, nutritious meal gives you just enough energy and helps keep your day on track. The following recipes accomplish everything I look for in a filling breakfast and the strata can even be made for brunch or dinner.

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SPRING BREAKFAST

Cardamom Chia Oatmeal Serves: 2

The sweet flavor of cinnamon and cardamom infuse the oatmeal with a wonderful aroma. A simple drizzle of tahini and silan (date syrup) enhances the flavors and elevates the oatmeal.

2 ¼ ¼ ¼ 1 ¼ 1 1

cups milk of choice teaspoon cardamom teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt cup old-fashioned oats cup chia seeds tablespoon pure silan tablespoon pure tahini paste Sliced bananas, sesame seeds and chopped nuts, optional

1. Add milk to a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add cardamom, cinnamon and salt, then reduce heat to low. 2. Whisk in oats and chia seeds and stir for about 10 minutes, on medium-low heat, until chia seeds plump up and oats are cooked to your liking. 3. Ladle oatmeal into a bowl and drizzle with silan, tahini, sliced bananas, sesame seeds and chopped nuts, if desired.

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Overnight Savory Challah Strata Serves: 8

A strata is a savory bread pudding made with bread and eggs and traditionally has cheese, meat or vegetables added in. This version makes an incredible Sunday brunch, but can be served on Shabbos or really any day of the week. The best thing about this dish is that all of the prep happens the night before. 2 3

tablespoons oil leeks, rinsed well and sliced in half moons 1 cup chopped salami 1 medium challah, cut into large chunks (about 6 cups) 8 eggs 1 cup soy milk 1½ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup baby spinach 1 cup sliced cherry tomatoes ½ cup chopped fresh parsley ½ cup chopped fresh basil ⅓ cup Vegan Parmesan (page 43) or ¼ cup nutritional yeast, optional 1. Add oil to a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add leeks and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add salami and sauté until golden, another 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. 2. Place challah in a greased 9x13inch baking dish. Whisk eggs, soy milk, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Fold in spinach and cooled leek-salami mixture. Pour over challah. 3. Cover the baking dish tightly with foil and refrigerate for 1-12 hours. 4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Nestle in tomatoes and top with herbs. Sprinkle with Vegan Parmesan, if desired. Bake, uncovered, until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

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SPRING BREAKFAST

Fruit Oatmeal Bake Serves: 8

The great thing about this recipe is that you can choose whatever fruit you have on hand as the base (peaches, berries, apples, pears), making this the ultimate seasonal breakfast option. It’s also a great way to use up leftover fruit and is a lighter version of a traditional fruit crisp, utilizing olive oil instead of butter or margarine. ¼ 3-4 5

2 ½ 2 ¼ 2 1 2 1 ¼ ½

cup + 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided cups fruit of choice tablespoons brown sugar, divided teaspoons cinnamon, divided teaspoon ground ginger, divided large eggs cup pure silan cups oat milk teaspoon pure vanilla extract cups old-fashioned oats teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt cup chopped pecans

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil, then scatter fruit on the bottom of the pan. Top with 2 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon ginger. 2. Whisk eggs, silan, milk, vanilla and remaining ¼ cup olive oil. In a separate bowl, combine oats, baking powder, salt, remaining 3 tablespoons brown sugar, remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon ginger. Add wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix until just incorporated. 3. Pour over fruit and top with pecans. Bake for 40 minutes.

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SPRING DINNER

S PR I NG DI N N E R S Cookbook author Amy Stopnicki and food bloggers Adina Silverman and Vanessa Haberman share their favorite family dinners that are perfect for spring.

Marinated Grilled Skirt Steak with Chimichurri

Lemon Asparagus Tagliatelle

Serves: 4-6

By: Amy Stopnicki

Skirt steak is an extremely flavorful cut of meat and comes together as a composed dish when served over pasta with an herbpacked chimichurri sauce.

2-3

N OT E S :

6 1 3

Make sure to take the time to thoroughly rinse the skirt steak — preferably soak and rinse a few times to diminish the inherent saltiness of skirt steak. Once skirt steak is cooked, cut into sections, then slice against the grain. Taking that extra step makes a huge difference in the texture of the steak. 2 ½ ½ ¼ 2

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lime teaspoon paprika teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon cayenne pepper (or more to taste) pounds skirt steak Lemon Asparagus Tagliatelle (recipe follows) Parsley Chimichurri (recipe follows)

1. Combine olive oil, lime juice, paprika, garlic powder and cayenne pepper in a large Ziploc bag. Add skirt steak and marinate for 30-40 minutes at room temperature or refrigerate overnight. 2. Heat a grill pan or gas grill to medium-high heat and sear steaks for approximately 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Allow steaks to rest for a few minutes before slicing. Serve over pasta and top with chimichurri.

By: Amy Stopnicki

tablespoons extravirgin olive oil bunches asparagus, finely sliced on a diagonal, woody ends discarded cloves garlic, chopped pound cooked tagliatelle pasta Juice of 1 lemon tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high. Add asparagus and sauté until tender, about 5-6 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another minute. 2. Add pasta, lemon juice and parsley. Toss to combine, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve topped with sliced skirt steak and chimichurri.

Parsley Chimichurri Yield: 1½ cups

By: Amy Stopnicki

Chimichurri is a delicious sauce that can be used as a dipping sauce or all-purpose marinade for chicken, beef or fish. It can also be frozen in small quantities and defrosted as needed. Blend 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 1 tablespoon kosher salt, 1 bunch fresh parsley, 6 garlic cloves, ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, ¼ cup red wine vinegar and ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, if desired. Thin out with water, if necessary. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Amy Stopnicki is a busy event planner, culinary instructor and recipe developer. Amy is also the author of Kosher Taste, which won the 2016 Gourmand Culinary Award. Amy lives in Toronto with her husband and four children. Follow Amy on Instagram @amyskoshertaste or on her website amystopnicki.com.

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SPRING DINNER

Crispy Chicken with Asparagus, Peas and Green Sauce Serves: 4-6

2 2 2 1 ½ ⅛

By: Adina Silverman

bunch asparagus, woody ends discarded cups shelled fresh or defrosted frozen peas tablespoons olive oil tablespoons maple syrup Juice of ½ lemon teaspoon curry powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Crispy Chicken (recipe follows), cut into 1-inch strips Green Sauce (recipe follows) Chopped pistachios, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss asparagus and peas with olive oil, maple syrup, lemon juice, curry powder, salt and pepper; arrange on a baking sheet in an even layer. Roast for 12-15 minutes, until crisp and vibrant in color. 2. To serve, arrange asparagus and peas on a large platter and top with sliced crispy chicken. Drizzle liberally with sauce and garnish with chopped pistachios.

Green Sauce Yield: 1 cup

By: Adina Silverman

Blend 1 cup fresh parsley, ½ cup fresh mint, 1 garlic clove, ½ cup olive oil, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon maple syrup, 1 teaspoon curry powder, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Crispy Chicken with Caramelized Onions and Apricots Serves: 4-6

By: Adina Silverman

If you can’t find apricots, feel free to use any stone fruit for this recipe, such as plums, nectarines or peaches.

1 4 ¼ 3 2 2

large onion, thinly sliced apricots, pitted and quartered cup olive oil tablespoons honey tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoons dry sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

2 1 ¼

tablespoons soy sauce teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Crispy Chicken (recipe follows) Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss onions and apricots with olive oil, honey, vinegars, soy sauce, salt and pepper. Arrange on a baking sheet with the apricots cut-side down. Roast for about 25 minutes, until onions and apricots are caramelized. 2. To serve, arrange chicken on a large platter and top with caramelized onions and apricots, pouring over any accumulated juices from the pan. Garnish with parsley.

Fennel Salad with Spicy Chicken “Croutons” Serves: 4-6

By: Adina Silverman

FO R T H E C H I C K E N :

¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼

cup fish-free Worcestershire sauce cup soy sauce cup maple syrup cup sambal oelek (chili garlic paste) cup ketchup Crispy Chicken (recipe follows), cubed

FO R T H E F E N N E L SA L A D:

¼ ¼ ¼ 1 1 ¼ 2 2

cup olive oil cup rice vinegar cup mayonnaise teaspoon maple syrup teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper shallots, thinly sliced fennel bulbs, thinly sliced, reserving fronds for garnish Thinly sliced radishes, for garnish Black sesame seeds, for garnish

1. Combine Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, maple syrup, sambal oelek and ketchup. Gently toss chicken in the sauce and set aside. 2. Whisk olive oil, rice vinegar, mayonnaise, maple syrup, salt, pepper and shallots until well combined; toss fennel with some of the dressing. 3. Arrange fennel on a platter. Top with chicken and garnish with radishes, black sesame seeds and reserved fennel fronds. Drizzle with additional dressing, if desired.

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SPRING DINNER

Crispy Chicken Serves: 4

By: Adina Silverman

This chicken recipe is the base to the preceding three recipes. To warm up the chicken without it getting soggy, reheat uncovered on a wire rack or baking sheet.

½ 2 ¼ 1 ½ ½

pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded thinly (about 4-6 cutlets) cup cornstarch eggs, beaten cup maple syrup teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups panko breadcrumbs Vegetable oil, for frying

1. Prepare dredging station with cornstarch in one bowl, eggs, maple syrup, garlic powder, salt and pepper in a second bowl and breadcrumbs in a third. Dredge chicken in cornstarch, then in egg mixture and finally in the breadcrumbs. 2. Prepare a wire rack set on top of a parchment-lined baking sheet and set aside. Heat ½ inch of vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, fry each cutlet for about 2-3 minutes per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Transfer chicken to the rack to cool.

Adina Silberman is a dentist by trade, but has always had a passion for food, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. Adina thinks outside the box and cooks with seasonal ingredients, substituting easily and as needed. She is currently working on a series called “Portion to Plate,” which pairs weekly insights into the Torah portion together with tasty, inspired recipes. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and daughter. She shares techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks transform their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion.

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BE A

Q U I N O A

W O R T H

ON E K E I N

AY I N

S T IC K H A R A - I N G

O V E R

P ON Y

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Spring Chicken Skewers Serves: 4

By: Vanessa Haberman

This is such a simple recipe, yet the marinade is packed with fresh flavor. While I prefer chicken thighs, feel free to use chicken breast, just adjust cooking time to 18 minutes. I often double the marinade — reserve half and blend with an immersion blender to serve as a dipping sauce alongside the chicken. ¼ ¼ ¼ 2-3 4 1 1 1 1½

cup olive oil cup chopped fresh dill cup chopped fresh parsley scallions, chopped cloves garlic, minced tablespoon honey teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed Oven-Baked Quinoa, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Combine olive oil, herbs, scallions, garlic, honey, salt and pepper in a gallon-sized Ziploc bag. Add chicken, seal bag and massage to coat. Let marinate in the fridge for 1 hour. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and set aside. Thread chicken onto skewers and cook until cooked through, about 25 minutes. Serve with quinoa.

Oven-Baked Quinoa Serves: 4

By: Vanessa Haberman

To turn this ordinary quinoa into something special, add in fresh or thawed frozen peas, chopped scallions (do yourself a favor and pick up purple scallions at the farmers market), roasted garlic (recipe page 40) and fresh herbs like parsley and/or dill. The great thing about oven-baked quinoa (and all grains in general) is that it is a blank canvas for whatever vegetables or herbs you have on hand.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Place 1 cup quinoa and 1 teaspoon kosher salt in an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish. Add 2 cups of boiling water and stir. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 22-25 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave covered for 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork.

Vanessa Haberman is a preschool teacher by trade with a passion for beautiful and fresh flavors. She shares easy cooking, menu planning and her love for all things tahini on Instagram @platesandpetals.

APRIL 2021

T IL ES BY: T IL EBA R .CO M

E D I TO R’S N OT E : For something different, use black quinoa (see page 111 for more on this unique ingredient).

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SPRING SALAD

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SPRING SALAD

Baby Spinach Salad with Balsamic Strawberries Serves: 4-6

By: Naomi Ross

Nothing says spring like this refreshing, sweet salad. Be sure to assemble immediately prior to serving to prevent the spinach from wilting. If serving a dairy meal, add crumbled goat or feta cheese. ¼ 2-3 1 ¼ ⅓ 1 ½ 5 1 1-2

cup balsamic vinegar tablespoons sugar quart strawberries, hulled and sliced teaspoon dried basil or 2 teaspoons fresh basil, chiffonade cup olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ounces baby spinach ripe avocado, pitted and thinly sliced tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

1. Whisk balsamic vinegar and sugar. Add sliced strawberries and turn to coat. Set aside to marinate for 20-30 minutes, turning occasionally. 2. Drain strawberries and transfer to a clean bowl, reserving balsamic marinade. If using dried basil, add to the balsamic marinade and slowly drizzle in olive oil, whisking continuously, until emulsified. (If using fresh basil, add to the salad once dressed.) Season with salt and pepper. 3. Place spinach in a large bowl and add half of the balsamic dressing, tossing until leaves are coated and dressing is distributed. Top with sliced avocado and balsamic strawberries, as well as basil, if using fresh. Drizzle with more dressing, if desired, and garnish with sesame seeds.

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SPRING SALAD

Springtime Green Salad Serves 4-6

By: Naomi Ross

A hearty, savory salad like this one needs fresh, crisp greens as its backbone. Romaine, red or green leaf work well – the fresher the lettuce, the sweeter, crunchier and more flavorful your salad will be. Don’t skip the anchovy croutons – they pack a wonderful umami punch.

2-3 1 ½ 3

small or ½ large head lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces Persian cucumbers, cut into small chunks pound cherry or vine tomatoes red onion, thinly sliced Lemony Mustard Vinaigrette (recipe follows) hard boiled eggs, peeled and sliced Anchovy Croutons (recipe follows)

1. Toss lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes and red onion with 2-3 tablespoons of dressing, until lightly coated. 2. Top with sliced hard boiled egg and croutons. Serve with additional dressing on the side, as needed.

Anchovy Croutons Preheat oven to 375°F and line a small baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Heat 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add 2 oil-packed anchovies and use a spatula or wooden spoon to gently break up the anchovies, until melted and dissolved into the oil, about 3 minutes. Season with ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add 2 cups cubed day-old bread and toss to coat well with the anchovy oil. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet, arranging in a single layer. Bake for about 15 minutes, until crisp and golden brown.

Lemony Mustard Vinaigrette Yield: ½ cup

Blend ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, the juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons), 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 1 garlic clove, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. 70

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L'CHAIM

Spring Wines B Y: G A B R I E L G E L L E R

This spring, we decided to highlight refreshing white wines for the season.

See page 90 for more of Gabriel's stellar white wine recommendations.

WEINSTOCK CELLAR SELECT

TABOR ADAMA SAUVIGNON

HAGAFEN DRY

CHARDONNAY 2018:

BLANC 2019:

RIESLING 2020:

This chardonnay is the perfect white wine for the beginning of grilling season. It’s full-bodied and rich with hints of citrus and apple, as well as creamy, buttery notes — perfect paired with rotisserie chicken and veal chops.

This wine is bursting with aromas of citrus and tropical fruits. It delivers a refreshing acidity and is perfect for chilling out on a mild spring night.

In all honesty, this wine is always amazing, regardless of the season, weather, food or company. It’s complex and layered, but so deliciously refreshing — it will be loved by casual drinkers and aficionados alike.

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MOST CHILDREN BEG their parents for a dog; for Ahuva Gottdiener, it was chickens that caught her fancy. At the age of 12, her brother brought home an adorable baby chick and Ahuva pulled out all the stops to try to convince her mother to keep it, even going as far as writing up a business plan to explain how she would build the coop and care for the chicken. While Ahuva’s wish may not have been granted at the time, her thirst for information on where our food comes from and passion for homesteading never subsided. “I loved watching Mr. Roger’s Neighborhood, because he would do things like taking you inside the factory to show you how peanut butter is made. But that wasn’t enough for me — I wanted to know how the peanuts were grown.” Sure enough, when she spotted an at-home peanut growing kit at the souvenir shop of a museum, she brought it home and

attempted to grow peanuts out of a pot in her home in Brooklyn. “It wasn’t exactly an ideal climate, so we only managed to get about five peanuts,” Ahuva confesses, “but I was fascinated by the process!” Ahuva’s passion has been largely inspired by her father, who was always trying to grow something new and interesting (including coffee beans, cotton, bananas and esrogim, aside from all the usual suspects), turning their house into a greenhouse when he brought all of his plants indoors in the winter. “It wasn’t just food you could grow,” Ahuva adds. “I still remember the excitement of going fishing with my father for the first time and experiencing the whole cycle firsthand — from seeing the fish swimming in the water, to catching, cleaning, cooking and eating it. This desire to connect to the source of our food has been in me ever since I can remember.”

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PROFILE

A NEW BREAD HAS RISEN THE BAKERY AHUVA’S FORAY INTO the world of sourdough bread began back in 2003 in much the same form. “I wanted to bake bread the original way, culturing my own yeast from just flour and water,” she explains. There was no readily available internet research back then, so Ahuva got her hands on a book on bread baking with just one little section on sourdough and began to experiment. Eventually, she started sharing photos of her bread and the baking process on Homegrown Kosher, her blog and Instagram page dedicated to educating consumers about the food they eat. “I didn’t even realize that sourdough was becoming a trend until people started asking me if I would sell it!” adds Ahuva. Just like that, the Homegrown Kosher bakery was born and quickly took off. Ahuva started selling a variety of sourdough loaves from her Monsey, NY home, wheeling industrial-sized equipment in and out of the kitchen each week. Eventually, she converted her playroom into a microbakery, from which she bakes loaves to sell in local grocery stores. Homegrown Kosher is a one-woman show — Ahuva does every step of the process herself, from prep to clean up, and she wouldn’t have it any other way. “I bake as much bread as I can possibly make on my own and I sell everything I bake, which is all I need. Having this little bakery in my house means I can fit my work into my day and still be able to do all of the other things I am passionate about, without having to worry about the stress or overhead costs of running a larger business with employees.”

MY BAKERY, MY BAKERY COME IN AND TRY MY RECIPE. AHUVA SAYS, MY ROLLS AND BREAD WILL KEEP THE JEWS WELL FED.

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THE NOT SO SECRET GARDEN 78

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know Ahuva as the sourdough baker, Homegrown Kosher is about so much more than just bread. “Baking is my day job and I love it,” she says, “but my mission is to educate and inspire people to connect to the source of their food. These days, our food is made available to us in a way that is completely detached from its origins — even the produce is uniform in size and color, stacked neatly in rows or shrink wrapped in plastic packaging. I’m here to bridge the disconnect, to tell the story of where our food comes from, how it’s grown and what happens to it after that.” There’s no better way to connect to the source of your food than to get your hands dirty — literally. “People think that seasonal eating is a new and trendy idea,” says Ahuva. “But when ALTHOUGH MANY MAY

you understand where your food comes from or grow it yourself, it just makes sense.” After watching and learning from her father all throughout her childhood, Ahuva set up her first small garden out of a few planter pots as soon as she moved into her first rental home and hasn’t stopped since. Once Ahuva determined the ideal spot with maximum sunlight throughout the season, she set up her raised beds in a fenced-in garden, which she eventually moved with her to her new home. “I live in Rockland County, where, as the name suggests, the soil is extremely rocky,” she adds. “Raised beds allow you to use good quality soil that will give you the best results.” With an extensive book collection on homesteading large enough to fill a library, Ahuva is constantly reading

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PROFILE

and researching to learn more. “I research everything very thoroughly, no matter the topic. Advance planning is the only way to succeed,” she says. Everything in Ahuva’s garden is grown from seeds, so she carefully maps out her garden every winter and then places a huge order of seeds for the spring. “Ahuva may have gotten her passion for gardening from her father,” adds her husband Yosef, aka Mr. Homegrown Kosher, “but her mother was always the one who would research and prepare for anything, with binders full of relevant information. When you combine that passion with careful research and attention to detail, you get a bakery and a garden!” Even when she’s not working on her garden, Ahuva always has a project underway. Aside from planning her garden and baking bread, winter is an opportune time for kitchen experiments, recipe development and fermentation, including homemade sauerkraut and pickles. “There’s always something you can do, no matter the season!” she says.

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AHUVA’S CHAYAS OF COURSE, WHAT would a homestead be without some livestock? Ahuva’s backyard is home to a few adorable rabbits, whose waste provides an incredible natural fertilizer — no composting needed, due to their digestive process. There are also the honeyproducing beehives, which had to be moved for the time being because of the influx of bears in the area. And 18 years after Ahuva first begged her mother to keep that baby chick, she got her very own chicken coop and first flock of chickens for her 30th birthday, providing her with a constant supply of free range eggs. If you’re wondering why a chicken is crossing her quiet suburban road, it’s simply because they love to wander. “They’ll always find their way back home by nightfall!” says Ahuva. “The moral of the story is, be careful what you tell your kids they can do when they’re older,” jokes Yosef. “Ahuva’s mother told her she could have chickens when she grew up —” Ahuva finishes his sentence with a laugh. “— And I didn’t forget!”

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CULINARY SCHOOL

GARDENING 101 with Ahuva Gottdiener

IT’S NEVER TOO L ATE TO GET STARTED ON

Fall is a great time to get your garden beds and fencing set up and it’s also the perfect time to plant garlic. Winter is the time for planning — figure out what you want to grow, which plant will go where and what seeds or plants you’ll need to buy, so when spring comes you’ll be ready to go. “Make sure to rotate where each plant goes from year to year, because different plants extract different nutrients from the soil. If you plant the tomatoes in the same spot year after year, they won’t grow as well,” advises Ahuva. During the winter you can also grow your own sprouts (see Ahuva’s Instagram highlights @homegrownkosher for a detailed tutorial) as well as herbs in indoor pots. A HOME GARDEN.

garden is, which might not be that perfect little corner you had in mind.” Once you’re equipped with that information, you can decide where the ideal place would be for your permanent garden. Keep in mind how much vertical space the roots of each plant will need when selecting a pot — one large planter might fit three cucumber plants but would only be enough for only one tomato plant, due to their larger roots — as well as making sure to leave sufficient space in between each plant. THE BULK OF THE GARDENING WORK WILL BE IN

PLANTING , but don’t rush to plant on the first warm day. Make sure to look up the right time for each crop — tomatoes need at least two weeks after the last frost date, while squash needs soil that is at least 65°F, which will obviously vary from year to year and based on your location.

THE SUMMER , when you’re watering, weeding and fertilizing the garden. “Watering properly is crucial,” advises Ahuva. “If you sprinkle a little bit of water every day, the roots are never getting the water they need. Once your plants are established, it’s better to water them thoroughly with at least half an inch of water only a few times a week, for a total of 1-2 inches per week.” Keep an eye on the rainfall as well — ideally with a rain gauge so you actually know how much water your plants are getting. If it rains a few inches in a week, you might not need to water your plants at all.

THE AMOUNT OF SUNSHINE IN DIFFERENT SPOTS

FINALLY, IT’S TIME FOR THE MOST ENJOYABLE

ONCE SPRINGTIME ARRIVES, IT’S TIME TO GET

will differ throughout the season, so if your plants are in pots, you can move them around as needed. “It’s always a good idea to start out with planter pots,” says Ahuva. “The most important key to success is sunlight, so you need to watch your space throughout a whole growing season to determine where the optimal place for your

PART OF GARDENING — harvesting your produce all summer long. Certain vegetables will keep producing even into the fall and some (like carrots and parsnips) actually benefit from being left in the ground until it gets very cold. Time to get the garden ready for next year!

Ahuva can be found on Instagram @homegrownkosher. Visit her blog homegrownkosher.com for more information and tutorials. Ahuva is also available for private in-person and virtual garden consulting.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

What to Plant Ahuva’s number one rule? “Plant what your family likes to eat!” Her garden includes carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, pumpkins, winter squash, zucchini, basil, potatoes, beets, radishes, lots of cucumbers (for making pickles), cantaloupe, string beans and garlic. Here are her top three picks for getting started:

BAS I L It’s fun to grow and you get nice big leaves that are easy to check for bugs. Plus, the plant will last into the fall.

TO M ATO E S The tomato plant is very productive and will continue to grow and produce throughout the growing season and into the fall as well.

C U C U M B E RS This vining crop loves to sprawl, so consider planting it on a trellis. The cucumbers get bigger very quickly, so it’s a lot of fun for kids to watch.

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Riesling Braised Chicken and Potatoes Serves: 4

By: Ahuva Gottdiener

This is my own interpretation of the classic French dish Coq au Riesling. This dish is the lighter cousin of the well known Coq au Vin. It's perfect all year long but especially welcome on those chilly April evenings after a day in the garden preparing for spring planting. Be sure to use a dry, not sweet, riesling for this. 1 1 1 ½

3 3 8 3 5

tablespoon olive oil chicken, cut into eighths teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (4-ounce) package beef fry, finely chopped leeks, white and light green parts only, halved and thinly sliced shallots, chopped cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a knife ounces mushrooms, halved stalks celery, chopped into ½-inch pieces Yukon gold potatoes, chopped into ¾-inch pieces

Spring Salad with Strawberry Vinaigrette Serves: 6

By: Ahuva Gottdiener

This is a great way to incorporate fruit into your salads when berries are not yet in season, but the first few mild days are spurring the anticipation of spring. Frozen strawberries (like all frozen fruit) are frozen at the peak of freshness, making them a great substitute in anything that will be cooked or puréed. N OT E : I like to store vinaigrette in plastic squeeze bottles so salads can be easily dressed easily as needed

6 ⅓

⅓ 1 ¾ ½ ¼

ounces frozen strawberries, defrosted (about ½ cup mashed) cup freshly squeezed lemon juice cup maple syrup teaspoon granulated onion teaspoon mustard powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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3 2 ¼ 1 ¼

cups (approximately 1 bottle) dry riesling cups chicken broth cup chopped fresh parsley teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon dried rosemary

1. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper and sear, skin side down, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate. Let Dutch oven cool down for 10 minutes. 2. Add beef fry to the Dutch oven over medium-low heat and cook until rendered, about 5 minutes. Add leeks, shallots and garlic, increase heat to high and sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring often. Add mushrooms, celery and potatoes and sauté for another 5 minutes. 3. Deglaze with wine, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 8-10 minutes until wine is reduced by half. Add broth, herbs and chicken. 4. Bring to a simmer and cook over a very low flame (with the lid slightly ajar) for 35-45 minutes until potatoes and chicken are tender.

¼ 5 1 1 1 ½ ½

cup neutral-flavored oil, such as canola or safflower cups mixed greens cup sliced sugar snap peas cup sprouts avocado, sliced cup sliced radishes cup almonds or pecans

1. To make the vinaigrette, add strawberries, lemon juice, maple syrup, granulated onion, mustard powder, salt and pepper to the bowl of a food processor and blend until combined, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and blend for another 1-2 minutes until smooth. 2. While the processor is running, slowly add the oil through the feed tube. Process for another 30-60 seconds until fully emulsified. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. 3. Arrange greens, snap peas, sprouts, avocado, radishes and nuts on a platter. Drizzle vinaigrette over the salad and lightly toss. www.fleishigs.com

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SEASONAL FEAST

B Y: S H I F R A K L E I N

year into COVID-19 and although many industries have been affected, we have seen devastating impacts on the restaurant industry. Chefs and restaurants have been hard hit and had to constantly pivot to face the challenges and ever-changing landscape and regulations thrown their way. Indoor dining had an obvious steep decline in 2020; it was the fine dining restaurants that had to make the biggest accommodations. WE ARE ONE

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OS E F

E PST E I N

GOLDBERG ,

AND

MEIR

two young sous chefs at Alenbi, the modern Israeli hotspot in Crown Heights, were experiencing the turmoil and instability of COVID-19 when Alenbi had to close its doors temporarily in the spring of 2020. While they did return temporarily in June 2020 to a revamped, fast casual menu that would make it practical and affordable for customers to order takeout, the uncertainty in the world of restaurants sparked these two young chefs to risk it all, quit their jobs at Alenbi to follow their dreams and launch Sol Dining — a private chef service that creates one-of-akind dining experiences not offered anywhere else. Sol Dining (sol, meaning salt in Polish, befitting for their Polish backgrounds and salt being the root of all flavor) offers them the ability to experiment, take risks and have fun without worrying about the overhead as much as their counterparts in restaurants do. “We are not just a plate of food,” Yosef shares. “We are in it for our passion and love

interacting with our customers and get to know their preferences.” From birthdays, anniversaries, cocktail parties or intimate sheva brachot, Sol Dining can cater a customized menu for up to 25 guests at your location of choice or at their space in Crown Heights. At a recent event, they served sweet pistachio macarons filled with a savory liver mousse and built a modern version of steak tartare on the gloved hands of diners, utilizing liquid nitrogen to create a cashew yogurt foam served with pickled beets. Yosef and Meir strive to bring a young, interactive and adventurous energy into the world of kosher private dining. That energy was brought into our kitchen as they seamlessly prepared a sample of a seasonal fourcourse menu that they would typically offer. Calm, cool and collected, the chefs executed their seasonal menu without breaking a sweat, all the while sharing their recipes, cooking tips and presenting the dishes to a small group of food bloggers who stopped by to sample the meal. “I was so impressed with the plating, creativity and how clean everything was,” shared Melinda Strauss. “My favorite dish was the halibut gazpacho. There wasn’t anything left in the bowl.” Malkie Gordon Hirsch likened the tasting menu to being a judge on a cooking competition such as Top Chef. “Except I’m a Jewish mom from Woodmere, NY and the guys behind Sol Dining are some supremely talented young men who have what it takes to compete in a nationally-ranked chef competition!” she gushed. “Their use of textures, flavors and garnishes (that corn cream!) really sets their food apart from anything I’ve ever had.” Look out for Sol’s future pop-up dinners, where limited seatings and tastings in surprise locations will be offered.

“We

are not just a plate of

food”

Yosef can be contacted on Instagram @foodie_man and Meir can be contacted @the_chef_life_. Together they can be contacted @soldining or via email info@soldiningnyc.com.

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SEASONAL FEAST

Elior’s C u l i n a ry School

Alenbi as a line cook with one year of culinary school under his belt. He worked his way up to sous chef under the tutelage of Chef Elior Balbul. Meir Goldberg joined the team after Yosef got married and couldn’t keep up the work hours he had committed to when single. Meir, also a passionate cook, was working at a warehouse at the time; with encouragement from family to pursue his culinary passion, he reached out to Yosef and asked if he knew of any openings. The stars aligned, the timing was right and Meir stepped in as second sous chef. Meir explained that Elior preferred to train chefs in-house versus hiring chefs from culinary school. This way, they were trained to perform to his standards without too much confusion. Meir and Yosef credit Elior with much of how they YOSEF EPSTEIN JOINED

operate Sol Dining. For instance, they came with every single piece of equipment needed to execute the dinner from start to finish. HERE ARE SOME OF YOSEF & MEIR'S TIPS:

Organization is key. If you are not organized, it will be reflected in the food. Plan out every step right down to cleaning up. We travel with our own small bucket and sponge (you never know what might be available where you are), ensuring that we can fully clean up without asking the hosts for anything. Discipline. At the heart of any good chef or entrepreneur is discipline, which is taught by practice. Small details such as cleanliness, organization and keeping to a schedule make all the difference between a chef and a cook. APRIL 2021

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Sol Dining’s Spring Menu with Wine pairings R E C I P E S B Y: YO S E F E P S T E I N A N D M E I R G O L D B E R G

SMOKED EGGPLANT

SEARED HALIBUT

C A S H E W YO G U R T

G R E E N P E A GA Z PAC H O

CHIVE OIL

CORN CREAM S H AV E D R A D I S H A N D A S PA R AG U S S A L A D P U F F E D Q U I N OA

T O O L S

P A I R I N G S B Y: G A B R I E L G E L L E R

SHARP KNIFE A high-carbon knife gets very sharp and is lighter than its counterparts, but can be brittle, causing it to

WINE PAIRING

Tzafona Riesling 2017

Netofa Tel Qasser White 2018

With its unique floral and lime aromas, this riesling enhances the savory flavors of the smoky eggplant and creamy yogurt.

This wine is made entirely from roussanne, a grape variety with herbaceous and summer fruit notes, which marries the flavors of this dish harmoniously.

CURED DUCK TA B B O U L E H C A S H E W YO G U R T D R I E D A P R I C OT S TO M ATO S A L A D

S A LT E D C A R A M E L A P P L E TA R T E TAT I N P R E T Z E L S TO U T I C E C R E A M PRETZEL TRAIL MIX GRANOLA WHIPPED CREAM

D E H Y D R AT E D TO M ATO SKINS

E S S E N T I A L

WINE PAIRING

edge easily. On the

D I N I N G

rust and lose its sharp

MANDOLINE

other hand, a stainless steel knife doesn’t get as sharp, but is heavier and more durable. Therefore, we recommend a blend — a high-carbon, stainless steel knife. TASTING SPOONS CUTTING BOARDS SQUEEZE BOTTLES

GOOD PEELER SHARPIES & LABELS KITCHEN TOWELS Opt for cheap and absorbent towels

S O L

VITAMIX

WINE PAIRING

JP Bailly Pouilly Fumé 2018

Chateau Piada Sauternes 2018

This white has great mineral and grapefruit

This is one of the most amazing kosher dessert

aromas, with pleasant bitterness and lively

wines, with notes of honey, dried apricots,

acidity.

candied ginger and orange peels, making it the

FOOD PROCESSOR

perfect match for this tarte tatin.

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SEASONAL FEAST

Black Garlic Eggplant Serves: 8

This dish is meant to mimic the flavor and look of a braised short rib. It is one of those vegan dishes that meat lovers obsess over. N OT E S :

• Badia minced black garlic, which is certified kosher by OU, is available at specialty markets. • While Sol Dining makes cashew yogurt from scratch, the process is laborious with ingredients that are hard to find. We recommend using store bought non-dairy yogurt with some added freshly squeezed lemon juice. 2 ¾ ⅓ 2

medium eggplants, peeled and cut into 2x3-inch rectangles cup black garlic paste cup canola oil teaspoons kosher salt Cashew yogurt, for serving (see note above) Chive oil, for serving (recipe follows) Puffed Quinoa, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange eggplant on a baking rack set over a parchment-lined baking sheet. Combine black garlic paste, oil and salt; brush half the mixture all over eggplant. 2. Cook for 20-25 minutes, flipping halfway through so all sides get golden and crispy. Alternatively, grill eggplant. After 20 minutes, brush with remaining black garlic paste. Heat oven to broil and broil for 1 minute per side.

Chive Oil Yield: 1½ cups

Blend ½ cup fresh chives, ½ cup canola oil and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a high-powered blender on maximum speed. Chill, then strain through a coffee filter.

Puffed Quinoa Puffed quinoa adds a wonderful nutty, crunchy element. If you don't want to make your own, Z Natural Foods, certified by Earth Kosher, makes a puffed quinoa that can be found in specialty markets or online. Alternatively, use finely chopped roasted almonds or pine nuts for a similar textural component. Cook quinoa according to package directions, then dehydrate for 12 hours in a dehydrator. Let cool, then heat 1-inch oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and fry until puffed.

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Seared Duck Breast Duck can be gamey, but curing the duck draws out some moisture, balancing out the rich flavor and creating a better sear. Simply combine equal parts salt and sugar; sprinkle over duck breasts. Let rest at room temperature for 30-45 minutes. Rinse, then pat dry. Heat a cast iron skillet over low heat and sear, skin side down, about 20-30 minutes, to slowly render the fat. After 20 minutes, increase heat to medium-high and cook until skin becomes crispy. Flip and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the skillet and let rest for 20 minutes before slicing.

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SEASONAL FEAST

Seared Halibut Scallops with Green Gazpacho Serves: 6

This dish has a few components, but the end result is worth it. If you want to simplify the dish but still retain its essence, the two key components are the halibut and green gazpacho, which can be served cold or at room temperature. 1½ 2 ⅓

pounds halibut teaspoons kosher salt Juice of ½ lemon cup canola oil Green Gazpacho (recipe follows) Stewed Spring Peas (recipe follows) Shaved Asparagus and Radish Salad (recipe follows) Corn Cream (recipe follows) Sliced jalapeños, for garnish

1. Use a 2-inch cookie cutter to cut round, scallop-like shapes from the halibut, reserving the rest of the halibut for fish cakes or ceviche. 2. Pat halibut scallops dry with paper towels, then season with salt and a squeeze of lemon. 3. Heat a sauté pan over medium-high heat; once the pan is hot, add oil. Sear halibut scallops for 4 minutes, then flip and cook for another 3 minutes. 4. Serve halibut scallops over green gazpacho and top with stewed spring peas and shaved asparagus and radish salad. Pipe some corn cream on top and garnish with sliced jalapeños.

Green Gazpacho Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add 2 sliced leeks, 3 crushed garlic cloves, ¼ cup chives and 1 teaspoon kosher salt; sweat until translucent and aromatic, about 12 minutes. Blend with 1 (16-ounce) package frozen peas, 1 peeled Persian cucumber, ⅓ cup water and the juice of 1 lemon until smooth. With the motor running, stream in ¼ cup canola oil until emulsified and thickened. Season with more kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Stewed Spring Peas Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil in a sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add 2 sliced leeks, 2 crushed garlic cloves and 1½ teaspoons kosher salt; sweat until translucent and aromatic, about 15 minutes. Add 1 (16-ounce) bag frozen peas (or fresh spring peas if you can find), 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium-low and cook, covered, for 20-30 minutes.

Shaved Asparagus and Radish Salad Peel 12 stalks asparagus into thin ribbons. Using a mandoline or sharp knife, thinly slice 6 radishes. Combine 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Gently toss with shaved asparagus and radishes.

Corn Cream Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add 2 sliced leeks and 2 crushed garlic cloves; sweat until aromatic, about 5 minutes. Add the leaves of 2 sprigs of fresh thyme, 1 (16-ounce) bag frozen corn and 1 cup non-dairy milk to just cover. Cook until corn softens, then strain, reserving liquid. Blend corn mixture, slowly adding reserved liquid back in until desired consistency is reached. Strain again, then blend one more time, adding in up to ¼ cup canola oil until emulsified and thickened.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y : YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

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WINEMAKING MAY SEEM

AFTER ALL , it is a process that begins with a form of agricultural farming of the vineyards. As with all farming, techniques, methods and technology have profoundly impacted the industry, but not necessarily for the better. Many naysayers are against genetically modified (GMO) farming and the use of pesticides. There are even some against the use of machinery near farms as they feel it can affect the product's overall quality and subsequently the health of the consumers. It has become very trendy to go organic and even vegan these days, trying to connect ourselves back to the literal roots that grow under the ground. Although closely related to the aforementioned issues, sustainability is another story and creating a sustainable model for vineyards is no easy feat. However, many kosher wineries are making changes to create a more efficient model.

LIKE ONE OF THE MOST

INHERENTLY NATURAL

PROCESSES.

I DISCUSSED A shift in the ecological practices of winemaking with two experts in the field — Michal Akerman, general manager and head agronomist of Tabor winery in Israel, and Dr. Moises Cohen, owner and agronomist of Clos Mesorah and Elvi wineries in eastern Spain. Michal has been working on the Tabor vineyards for many years and has brought all of their vineyards back to an ecologically sustainable model, although slow starting and difficult. It all started with the Ramat Sirin vineyard, where Tabor is growing Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli, Merlot, Petit Sirah, Shiraz, Barbera and Petit Verdot. Working together with the Society of Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI), Tabor took several years to overhaul its agricultural processes. Vineyards and grapes are particularly vulnerable to pests like bugs and diseases; it was essential to increase the biodiversity on and around the vineyards to keep the good and weed out the bad. Everything works in cooperation and each challenge has its remedy. Still, the return of many wild animals, including the barn owl that appears on all the new Tabor labels, signified that they were headed in the right direction. We don't always realize the impact our actions can have on the vineyards until we change the process. After implementing some new pest control techniques, they realized that the soil had changed dramatically for the better. They no longer had to worry about soil erosion or nutrient deficiency as they once did.

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M OVING WESTWARD TO SPAIN, Moises, his winemaker wife Anne and the rest of the Cohen family have been practicing sustainable, biodynamic processes for over 20 years. The process was intuitive as they learned and observed the surrounding nature. Dr. Cohen and his wife have extensive research backgrounds in agriculture. Their work includes measuring nature with biosensors they developed themselves and they understood very early on that there is a natural equilibrium in the world. Humans have a choice — they can either go with nature or against it. Aggressive viticulture negatively affects the grapes and wines, but also

the surrounding soil, plants, animals and natural habitats. Forcing the vines to overproduce is the opposite of the approach they wanted to accomplish. Creating a natural ecosystem where the insect, flora and fauna work in cooperation is ideal for achieving this equilibrium that the Cohen family always dreamed of. The process was lengthy, but after 12 years, the vineyards went from depleted to a beautiful equilibrium harmony. There used to be no worms or other insects in the soil, devoid of the natural process that brings oxygen and nutrients to the ground and subsequently to the vines. This is not the case anymore. The soil is now a rich building block that some of our favorite wines are a product of. Dr. Cohen cautions me that biodynamic is not to be confused with organic. It is very trendy, especially in Spain, for wineries

GOOd wine starts at the roOts

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to have organic certification, which bars them from using certain pesticides. Biodynamic equilibrium is much more than that — it’s the understanding that humans and vineyards must live together in natural harmony. Spain and Israel are not the only

countries interested in getting back to nature. The leader in this area is the Burgundy region in France and we will see many more regions going in this direction in the coming years as vineyards become more and more strained from human interference. The vines of a sustainable vineyard have much more strength to withstand the natural conditions thrown at it. For example, suppose there is less rain than expected in a given year. In that case, a sustainable vineyard will not suffer as much as its unsustainable counterpart. The measurement of the invisible is the most crucial point that Moises wanted me to stress. “It is about what a wine transmits to you, without technicalities, without knowing about its pH, acidity or any other parameter. Some wines transmit a special resonance, a tune that connects you to it almost immediately. You discover it, understand it, feel it and live it,” Moises explains. This message seems to convey that the “why” remains in the zone of mystery or invisible. He continues with the most powerful thought of all, “The vineyard integrates all of its surroundings and its fruit condensed in its interior. Everything that happens during its history is ingrained in the vineyard”. If this sentence did not convince you to drink sustainable wines, then I don't know what will! L'chaim!

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COOKBOOK

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COOKBOOK

B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

ERA NEWMAN, a Detroit-based food photographer and recipe developer, impressively weaves her multicultural background in the beautifully styled The Marblespoon Cookbook, which was released in November 2020 by Menucha Publishers.

Vera was born and raised in Panama City and drew inspiration from her Sephardic roots (including Moroccan, Syrian and Panamanian), her in-laws’ Eastern European background and various other cuisines and cultures to create this wonderfully wellrounded, family-friendly cookbook. Personal accounts of Vera’s childhood, including the food of her mother and grandmothers, can be found peppered throughout over 160 recipes. Vera styled and photographed the entire book herself, at home, during the pandemic. It was a challenge, to say the least, but readers would never know — a true reflection of Vera’s natural artistic talents and her resilience. Read more about her process on page 108. The book is broken out into 11 robust chapters: Starters & Dips; Dairy; Soups; Salads; Vegetables & Sides; Weeknight Suppers; Fish; Poultry; Meat; Sweets & Treats; and Baked Goods. What’s especially practical are Vera’s sections on creating a menu, composing a shopping list, time saving tricks, equipment and ingredient suggestions, pantry staples and sample menus, making this cookbook not just another collection of recipes, but rather a guide for cooks of all levels, whether novice or advanced. The recipes range from simple and familiar to ethnic and complex, yet achievable for the home cook. The Marblespoon Cookbook would make an excellent wedding or housewarming gift.

The Marblespoon Cookbook Author: Vera Newman

Published by: Menucha Publishers Price: $37.99 + Free Shipping

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Recipes reprinted with permission from The Marblespoon Cookbook by Vera Newman

Salmon Florentine Pareve | Yields 6 servings

This is definitely not your typical salmon recipe. Not only is it insanely delicious and beautiful, but it’s also the perfect weekday supper option when you’re in the mood for something different. You’ll feel like you’re dining in a fancy restaurant.

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2 5 1 1

Tbsp oil cloves garlic, finely minced medium onion, diced 13.5-oz can full-fat unsweetened coconut milk 1 tsp turmeric 1½ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 1 5–6 oz-package baby spinach

I N G R E D I E N TS

METHOD

1 5 ¼ ⅛ 6

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

pint (10 oz) cherry tomatoes Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided tsp salt, plus more to taste tsp black pepper, plus more to taste (1¼ inch-thick) skinless salmon fillets fresh parsley, finely chopped, for garnishing, optional

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2. Place cherry tomatoes in a baking pan. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat. Roast uncovered for 35 minutes and set aside. 3. Season salmon fillets with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper on both sides.

4. In a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Sear salmon for 4 minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Transfer to a plate. 5. To make the sauce: In the same pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, stirring often, about 1 minute. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. 6. Add coconut milk, turmeric, salt, and pepper and mix well. Bring to a simmer. Add baby spinach and allow to wilt in the sauce, stirring often. Add roasted tomatoes, mix well, and adjust seasonings if needed. 7. Add the salmon fillets, and use a spoon to cover the fillets with the sauce. Bring back to a simmer for 3 minutes and remove from heat. Transfer to a serving platter and top with parsley, if desired. www.fleishigs.com

COOKBOOK

Hashu-Stuffed Chicken Capons Meat | Yields 8–10 Servings

Hashu (a ground beef and rice stuffing) is used in many Syrian dishes, mostly as a stuffing for chicken, meat, and a variety of vegetables, but also served as a side dish on its own. For anyone ready to try Syrian food, this recipe is a great one to start with! I N G R E D I E N TS

8 3 1 ½ ½ 1 ½ ¼

deboned chicken thighs (capons), cut in half Tbsp oil tsp paprika tsp allspice tsp cinnamon tsp chicken soup mix tsp salt tsp black pepper Handful fresh parsley, chopped, optional

Vera nice

very good

H AS H U

1 ⅔ 1 1 1 ½ 1 ½ ¼

lb ground beef cup parboiled white rice Tbsp oil Tbsp water tsp allspice tsp cinnamon tsp chicken soup mix tsp salt tsp black pepper Handful fresh parsley, chopped, optional

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. In a medium bowl, combine all the hashu ingredients. 3. Fill each piece of chicken with some hashu and tuck in the sides. Arrange in a 9x13-inch baking dish. 4. Drizzle oil on the chicken. Season with paprika, allspice, cinnamon, chicken soup mix, salt, and pepper. Rub spices all over chicken, ensuring it’s covered on all sides. 5. Bake covered for 1 hour. Uncover and bake for another hour. Garnish with fresh parsley before serving, if desired. N OT E S

If you end up with any leftover hashu, you can wrap it in a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil like a log, and place it raw in the chamin or cholent right before Shabbat. Before serving, remove from the foil and serve sliced, as a side dish. Sometimes I make little balls with the mixture and place them around the chicken for an added bonus. VA R I AT I O N S

You can use the hashu to stuff a whole chicken or a Cornish hen for a more festive-looking dish. You can also add ¼ cup pine nuts to the hashu mixture. APRIL 2021

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Q + A V E R A

N E W M A N

We spoke with Vera Newman, author of The Marblespoon Cookbook, about her favorite recipes, kitchen tips, cooking advice and the process of writing a cookbook during a pandemic.

What inspired you to write a book? I started a private catering company in the fall of 2016, catering Shabbos and Yom Tov on a small scale for a number of clients. It evolved into birthday and anniversary parties, corporate lunches and intimate dinners for clients at home. I also have a floral and event planning business; I’ve always loved the idea of entertaining and expressing my art through food and flowers. After my Instagram account (@marblespoon) started to gain popularity and my recipes were becoming part of my followers’ weekly menus, I knew I had built something special. My husband suggested that I write a cookbook and I remember thinking he was completely nuts. Once I slept on it, I knew I could do it, so I announced it on Instagram. I literally had no plan and no idea how I was going to execute it, but I put it out there and the rest is history.

What was the most challenging part of the process? It was a pretty wild ride, especially since I started shooting the book right before the pandemic, in February 2020. My deadline was August, so most of the work was done during the peak of COVID-19. Grocery shopping with a mask was an overwhelming experience (though now it has become the norm), food sold out quickly, there were long lines to get into stores, my kids were home 24/7 and I had no one to help me cook the food, style or clean up. I couldn’t shop for props because houseware stores were closed, so I did most of that shopping online. As it is, the task of creating a cookbook from start to finish in six months is a daunting one, but the pressure quickly multiplied. Looking back, it was all a blur, but with the help of Hashem and my husband (who truly became the dad and the mom during this time), I accomplished what I thought was the impossible. I cooked, styled, photographed, edited and wrote the book. Not slowing down despite all the challenges was the most fulfilling thing I’ve ever done.

Are there any kitchen tools you can't live without? A million measuring spoons and cups — you can never have enough! Silicone spatulas for mixing and sautéing, a sharp chef’s knife, heavy-duty plastic cutting boards, large tongs and a good quality peeler are key as well.

What are some of your top cooking tips?

that needs to be made for each component. Then make a detailed grocery list broken down by store and aisles/categories. Cross off as you go, which really helps you stay efficient. I can’t stress enough to clean as you go. And most importantly, make sure you have some music, podcasts or a good shiur to listen to. Also, comfortable shoes are a must — I live in Crocs when I cook.

Do you have a favorite recipe from the book? It depends — for my catering business, my crispy schnitzel and pulled beef egg rolls are the most popular. My family loves the pesto baby chicken and the Mexican rice bowls.

What are some of the most popular recipes from the book? I receive multiple pictures of my funfetti pudding cookies every week. Another hit is my salami couscous, which I’m not surprised by — it’s so simple, but is a family-friendly crowd pleaser. People have also responded really well to the ethnic dishes in my book, such as bakhsh, a Bukharian rice and beef dish, which is in the weeknight suppers section of the book. It was a hit from my first time I made it on Instagram.

Anything that didn't make it into the book? I had developed an incredible sweet and spicy meatball and peas recipe right before the cookbook was set to go to print, and despite my begging, it was too late. I’m saving it for a special occasion or if I ever decide to write another cookbook — we’ll see!

What’s on your typical Shabbos menu? I love going back and forth between Ashkenazic and Sephardic cuisine, so it depends on my mood. One week you’ll find me serving gefilte fish, chicken soup, roasted chicken, a nice roast and kugels. The following week my menu may feature Moroccan fish balls, Yemenite soup, hashu-stuffed chicken capons, mechshi, stuffed artichoke hearts or eggplant roll ups and rice. For dessert we usually like to keep it simple and either have some fresh fruit or, if one of my kids insists, I’ll whip up a quick bundt cake right before Shabbos. If I have company, I opt for a more special dessert, like my caramel pecan ice cream pie, which always hits the spot.

Lists, lists, lists. After making a menu, break it down with a list of everything

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RESOURCE GUIDE

CUISINART MINI PREP® FOOD PROCESSOR A mini food processor is great for quickly blending pestos and dips or chopping vegetables and nuts. With a stainless steel base and 21-ounce capacity bowl, it’s compact and easier to operate than a standard food processor for small jobs. Use it to make Vegan Parmesan (page 43) or a variety of dips and dressings such as Garlic Horseradish Mayo (page 19), Lemony Mustard Vinaigrette (page 70) and Cilantro Chimichurri (page 16). B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

bedbathandbeyond.com | $34.99

YARKOR BAMBOO TOFU PRESS For the cook that appreciates — and has the space for — gadgets, a tofu press speeds up the process of draining tofu and is easier than using heavy pots and cans. This bamboo version has a removable strainer and easy-to-clean drip tray. See page 36 for more on tofu. amazon.com | $29.77

ZYLISS LETTUCE KNIFE Use a plastic serrated knife to maximize freshness of lettuce and greens. The knife is also a great option for kids in the kitchen. Read more about seasonal produce on page 50. bedbathandbeyond.com | $4.99

JUMBL STAINLESS STEEL BREADING SET This set comes in handy when making schnitzel or anything that requires a breading station, like the Crispy Chicken on page 64. The stainless steel set of three interlocking containers make dredging and clean up a breeze. amazon.com | $39.95

ACURITE RAIN GAUGE AND THERMOMETER A rain gauge is an important tool for a home garden, as recommended by Ahuva Gottdiener (read more on page 82). It allows you to see how much precipitation plants are receiving to determine how much more water, if any, is needed for the health of the plant. This durable, weatherresistant version, which has an accompanying thermometer, is easy to read and install into the ground. homedepot.com | $10.82

FREEZER-SAFE LABELS Key to organization, the chefs behind Sol Dining (see more on page 86) recommend keeping labels on hand. This 500-piece set allows you to conveniently date and label the contents of containers. Plus, the labels peel off easily, leaving no residue. amazon.com | $10.99

ROUND COOKIE CUTTER SET These brushed tin-plated steel cutters are such a versatile tool to have in the kitchen. Whether making cookies, pie or pizza dough, decorative fruit platters, sandwiches or scallop-like shapes from fresh halibut (see page 97), this set of 11 cutters will see multiple uses. williams-sonoma.com | $15 *Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

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RESOURCE GUIDE

COCONUT SECRET COCONUT AMINOS Coconut aminos is an excellent substitute for soy sauce for those on a gluten-free and/ or soy-free diet. It contains substantially less sodium than traditional soy sauce, thus making it less salty and overbearing in dishes. Made from the pure sap of coconut trees, it’s high in many vitamins and minerals. Use it in Tofu and Eggplant in Basil Garlic Sauce (page 44). Certified kosher by Star-K.

MODERNIST PANTRY One of the only kosher fish gelatins on the market, Melinda Strauss recommends Modernist Pantry gelatin, which is available from Amazon in various quantities. Use it to make her Homemade Vanilla Marshmallows (page 31). Certified kosher by OU.

GRAND EARTH BARN ORGANIC BLACK QUINOA Black quinoa, an ancient grain, has the same flavor and nutritional benefits as traditional white quinoa (used on page 67). With a nutty texture, it lends a visual contrast to dishes. Certified kosher by OU.

CENTO ANCHOVIES IN OLIVE OIL Anchovies packed in extra-virgin olive oil add a burst of umami flavor to the croutons on page 70. Melt into oil in a hot pan or blend into a vinaigrette for an unexpected, yet welcomed, addition to dishes. Opt for flat, as opposed to rolled, anchovies for ease of use. Wild Planet is another great, sustainablycaught choice. Certified kosher by OU.

DATE LADY PURE DATE SYRUP Silan, used in the sweet breakfast recipes on pages 55 and 59 (but delicious in savory applications as well), is a great replacement for honey or maple syrup as a natural sweetener. Opt for 100% pure silan as opposed to one that is sweetened with sugar. While any brand of pure silan is good, this organic brand comes in a convenient squeeze bottle. Certified kosher by Vaad of Kansas City (KCK).

BRAGG NUTRITIONAL YEAST Nutritional yeast is a savory, cheese-like sprinkle that is vegan, gluten-free and rich in B vitamins. It can be used in so many applications, from eggs and roasted vegetables to seasoning for popcorn or kale chips. We use it in Vegan Caesar Dressing (page 43), Tofu Breakfast Scramble (page 39), Vegan Parmesan (page 43) and Overnight Savory Challah Strata (page 56) to impart a unique cheesy flavor. Certified kosher by OU.

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LAST BITE

Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

Rhubarb is celebrated for its tart flavor and vibrant pink color. It comes in long stalks, similar to celery, and is most widely used in desserts and pastry. I combined the tart rhubarb with Israeli flavors to create one of the most flavor-packed and dynamic pastries I’ve yet to taste. N OT E S :

• Rhubarb has a short spring season; feel free to use frozen if you can’t find fresh. • Use whole stalks, trimmed to fit your dough, for a dramatic presentation. Alternatively, slice as desired. ⅓ + ½ cup sugar, divided ½ teaspoon cardamom ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground ginger Zest of 1 orange 8-10 stalks rhubarb, peeled ⅓ cup tahini paste 3 egg yolks, divided 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 roll store bought sweet pastry dough or puff pastry dough 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Combine ⅓ cup sugar, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and orange zest; toss in rhubarb. 2. To the bowl of a food processor fitted with an S-blade, add tahini, 2 egg yolks, remaining ½ cup sugar and vanilla extract; blend until combined. Alternatively, whisk well by hand or using a hand blender. 3. Roll out dough and spread tahini mixture in a thin layer, leaving a 1½-inch border. Top with rhubarb, then fold edges over. 4. Brush edges of the dough with the remaining egg yolk and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Bake for 35-40 minutes.

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CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 16 19 19 40 40 43 43 60 63 70 70 84 92 92 97

Cilantro Chimichurri M Q Garlic Horseradish Mayo M Q Caramelized Mushrooms and Onions M Roasted Garlic Crispy Sunchoke Chips FF M Q Vegan Caesar Dressing Q Vegan Parmesan M Q Parsley Chimichurri M Q Green Sauce M Q Anchovy Croutons Lemony Mustard Vinaigrette M Q Strawberry Vinaigrette FF Chive Oil M Q Puffed Quinoa Corn Cream

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 16 39 40 43 44 60 63 67 69 70 84 92 97 97 97 97 106

Blistered Fingerling Potatoes Breakfast Tofu Scramble FF Roasted Garlic Sunchoke Soup FF Vegan Caesar Salad with Tofu "Croutons" Tofu and Eggplant in Basil Garlic Sauce Lemon Asparagus Tagliatelle FF Q Fennel Salad Q Oven-Baked Quinoa FF M Q Baby Spinach Salad with Balsamic Strawberries Springtime Green Salad FF Spring Salad M Q Black Garlic Eggplant Seared Halibut Scallops M Green Gazpacho Q Stewed Spring Peas M Shaved Asparagus and Radish Salad M Q Salmon Florentine FF

POULTRY 63 63 63 64 67 84 94 107

Crispy Chicken with Asparagus, Peas and Green Sauce Crispy Chicken with Caramelized Onions and Apricots Spicy Chicken “Croutons” Crispy Chicken FF Q Spring Chicken Skewers FF Q Riesling Braised Chicken and Potatoes Seared Duck Breast M Hashu-Stuffed Chicken Capons FF

MEAT 16 19 19 56 60

Sous Vide Oyster Steak Grilled Oyster Steak Sandwiches FF Smoked Oyster Steak Kebabs Overnight Savory Challah Strata FF Marinated Grilled Skirt Steak FF M Q

SWEET TREATS 31 32 34 46 55 59 112

Homemade Vanilla Marshmallows M S’mores Brownie Lava Cake FF M Campfire Peanut Butter S’mores Cones FF M Q Tahini Chocolate Mousse with Sesame Brittle FF Q Cardamom Chia Oatmeal Fruit Oatmeal Bake FF Tahini Rhubarb Galette

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick