Fleishigs Magazine Issue 029 - August 2021 by Fleishigs Magazine

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BUTCHER'S CUT

The wonders of chuck steak

TRADITION

Syrian simanim

EDITOR’S LETTER

ESSENTIALS What you need and where to get it

ASK THE EXPERT Some pressing questions, answered

PROFILE A breakdown of honey

BACK POCKET One vinaigrette, three ways

SEASONAL Grilled vegetables 2.0

32 BREAKING BREAD Challah with the flavors of the season 52

CULINARY SCHOOL Koji 101

72 L’CHAIM New wines for the new year

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

An elegant feast fit for a king

98 TRAVEL Kenyan safari 109 KIDS IN THE KITCHEN Highlight on 13-year-old baker Nina Schottenstein 112 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Covenant Winery 118 COOKBOOK Now for Something Sweet by Monday Morning Cooking Club 122 TREND Online shopping 126 LAST BITE Savory Fig Jam Chicken

SOMETHING SWEET New apple desserts for the holiday table

128 RECIPE INDEX

THE ROSH HASHANA ISSUE

EDITOR'S LETTER

New Year. New App. New Food Traditions.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

typically encompasses both Rosh Hashana and Sukkot. This year, however, Rosh Hashana falls out during the first week of September, allowing us to separate the two. I couldn’t be happier to give each holiday the space it deserves. What I love most about Rosh Hashana is the tremendous amount of symbolism that is incorporated throughout. Even as adults, there is something inspiring about tangible, physical representation of spiritual, lofty concepts. For those of us whose love language is food, it is even more meaningful to celebrate this holy time with foods that bring life and meaning to the holidays - apples and honey, pomegranates, new fruits and simanim all show up in this packed issue. Starting with this issue and beyond, we’ve begun to focus on strategic cooking - making something once, but finding ways to use it multiple times and in various ways. Whether this means making extra sous vide steaks (the most foolproof method for cooking steaks, in our opinion) for dinner to have leftovers for a stellar steak salad, preparing our honey vinaigrette and using it many ways or grilling extra vegetables to use for dips and spreads. For a fresh new take on simanim, Mozelle Goldstein shares a Syrian twist on the tradition. Many Jews of Sephardic (particularly Syrian, in Mozelle’s case) descent enjoy an OUR

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appetizer course of various foods that symbolize blessings for the year ahead. Even though I grew up without this tradition, incorporating it into my family's Rosh Hashana feast is something I am looking forward to. For a more modern, upscale Rosh Hashana feast, Adina Schlass shares her chef-inspired cooking tips and recipes to inspire our cooking for the holiday and the year ahead. Because of the calendar and the fact that we are still in summer mode, we showcase seasonal produce that we are taking full advantage of while it lasts. This is the opportune time to enjoy the height of tomato season - they are sweet, firm, juicy and pure perfection. When paired with juicy steak, kale, sliced onions and a balsamic glaze, you have the most indulgent end-of-summer salad. To start the Jewish New Year off in appreciation of our incredible Fleishigs subscriber base, we have launched an app that includes all previously published recipes from every issue of Fleishigs. This was the most consistent request from our subscribers and we are more than happy to finally introduce you to this exclusive resource, available to magazine subscribers. (Available in the app store now!) From our family to yours, we wish you all a happy, healthy and sweet New Year full of blessings and growth. Bitayavon, Shifra

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Mushka Haskelevich Devorah Kahan Aaron Zanger CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Dear eater of meat, rejector of milk, words to you we bring and the ability to try a plethora of new things. Your kitchen skills we hone, allowing you to make dishes good down to the bone. Our pictures are fly, our recipes easy, our lemons squeezy. Our articles, like a good babka, are layered and juicy. You see, it’s all for you — the one who reads, makes, bakes and takes the cake. This months cover brought to you by democracy and those with good taste, murica. This issue was designed to the understated stylings of Warrant, Billy Idol, Quiet Riot and Tzlil Vzemer Vol 2. Design inspiration: Dan Flashes.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine 10

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KOJI

6. ROSLE KITCHEN TORCH

1. COLD MOUNTAIN KOJI This Japanese fermented rice product, kosher certified by Star K, is the key ingredient used in the koji fermentation process, whereby meat is aged far more quickly than traditional methods. Koji rice can be purchased online or at Asian specialty markets.

2. CUISINART SPICE & NUT GRINDER This powerful grinder can withstand rice, nuts and whole spices like cloves and cinnamon sticks. It has a ½ cup capacity and sharp stainless steel blades, making it the perfect gadget for grinding rice for koji fermentation and can be used for grinding rice for kibbe (page 68) as well.

williams-sonoma.com | $39.95

3. ULTRA CUISINE BAKING PAN & RACK SET Among their many uses, wire cooling racks and baking sheets are essential for holding meat for koji fermentation, allowing air to circulate on all sides. This durable aluminum baking pan and stainless steel rack set is dishwasher safe and oven safe, making it extremely versatile. Wire racks can be found in all sizes, but half sheets are the perfect size for koji fermentation since it doesn’t take up as much room in the refrigerator.

amazon.com | $24.99 See page 52 for more on this fascinating process.

DESSERT 4. TNUVA FROZEN ROLLED SWEET SHORT DOUGH This sweet pie dough, certified kosher by OU and Badatz, can be found in the freezer section of many kosher supermarkets. It’s a quick shortcut when making pie, pastries or other desserts, truly tastes homemade and has an endless number of uses. Certified kosher by OU and Badatz. Apple Berry ‘Pop-Tarts’ (page 96); Apple Slab Pie (page 92)

5. DEEBEST SEA SALT CARAMEL CHIPS These non-dairy caramel chips add a unique sweet and salty flavor to desserts, such as cakes, brownies or crumble/topping for ice cream or fruit. It lends an unexpected, yet delicious, pop of flavor. Certified kosher by CRC and OU. Apple Crumb Cake (page 94)

Nothing beats torched meringue and the easiest way to do that is with a kitchen torch. This version is small, compact and easy to use. Lemon Meringue Cake (page 111)

crateandbarrel.com | $49.95

SOUS VIDE 7. ANOVA PRECISION COOKER Cooking sous vide was once a foreign concept for the home cook, but has quickly taken off for its guarantee of accurate results every time. The immersion circulator method heats water to a precise temperature and cooks food low and slow. Sous Vide Chuck Steaks (page 45); Sous Vide Lamb Chops (page 82)

crateandbarrel.com | $199.99

8. WILLIAMS SONOMA SOUS VIDE ACCESSORIES A sous vide rack and bag clip set makes the process easier by keeping everything submerged in the water. Upgrade to the Sous Vide Ultimate Set, which also contains plastic bags and a hand pump to ensure as tight a seal as possible. The bags and hand pump can also be purchased as a set, without the rack and bag clips, for $34.95.

williams-sonoma.com | $19.95 - $49.95

SEASONAL 9. ZAZOLYNE MINI WOODEN HONEY DIPPERS A honey wand is a great addition to tablescape decor or an apple-and-honey themed gift, but is also the easiest and cleanest way to serve or dish out honey all holiday season long. With this set of 22 (3-inch) wands on hand, you won’t feel guilty discarding the ones that get too sticky. Honey Vinaigrette and accompanying recipes (page 22)

amazon.com | $5.99

10. WILLIAMS SONOMA PREP TOOLS ADJUSTABLE APPLE SLICER & CORER A combination apple slicer/corer is a basic kitchen tool that you either use every day or is collecting dust at the bottom of your drawer. This upgraded version of the classic is adjustable, allowing you to cut two sizes of apple wedges while coring the apple as well. Perfect for the apple desserts in the Something Sweet feature on page 91. It’s apple season after all!

williams-sonoma.com | $26.95

SPICES 11. Hailing from the berries of the allspice tree (a plant in the myrtle family), allspice has very warming qualities, reminiscent of the flavors and scents of cinnamon, cumin, cloves and nutmeg. Contrary to what you might think, allspice is actually not a blend, rather a single spice that resembles peppercorns. It can be used in both sweet and savory applications (baking and cooking) and is popular in Caribbean, Latin American and Middle Eastern cuisines to bring a wonderfully warm flavor to dishes. Allspice is available in whole or ground form wherever spices are sold. See Tradition feature on page 58 for Syrian simanim recipes using allspice. 12. Chinese five spice is a bold blend traditionally made from cinnamon, fennel seeds, cloves and star anise. The fifth spice varies, depending on region/ household/brand, between ginger, white pepper and Sichuan peppercorns. When shopping for spice blends, look for all natural ingredients with no preservatives. If you are an adventurous cook, Chinese five spice can easily be made at home using whole spices and a spice grinder (see above recommendation), allowing you to control the flavor — just be sure to toast the spices first to maximize flavor and store in an airtight jar to preserve freshness. We prefer Frontier Co-Op brand (KSA). See page 45 for Asian-Style Chuck Stew recipe using Chinese five spice. 13. Umami seasoning blend has been the hottest trend to hit the spice market. Umami, otherwise known as the “fifth taste,” can be found in foods like soy sauce, miso, Parmesan cheese and mushrooms. This spice blend combines a few simple ingredients into one stellar seasoning blend that can be used on any protein, in vinaigrettes and as seasoning for popcorn or kale chips. Not to be confused with pure mushroom powder, umami seasoning contains salt, so be aware of that when using it to season food. It can be found under many brands, such as Trader Joe’s (OU), Simply Organic (Whole Foods; KSA), among others. See page 78 for Umami-Crusted Ribeye recipe using umami seasoning blend.

*Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

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THE FREG ZONE FOR THOSE THAT AREN'T AFRAID TO ASK

Adina, I love grilling, but #apartmentliving. Can you achieve the same results indoors on a grill pan? -Rachel S. You will achieve similar grill marks and the same Maillard reaction (a chemical reaction that gives browned food its distinctive flavor) using a grill pan as you would an outdoor grill. The one crucial difference is the flavor from using an outdoor gas or charcoal grill. - Adina Schlass (@the_chefs_wife_)

Mozelle, how can I elevate my roasted potato game? -Chava M. Whenever I make my grandmother’s recipe (page 67), there are never any leftovers. The secret? Use a real pan, not disposable, which makes the potatoes the ideal crispy texture. And don’t be shy with the kosher salt — potatoes need salt. - Mozelle Goldstein (@sy_in_li)

Yehuda, we are going on a road trip this summer and plan on bringing a disposable grill. Any tips for success?

Shifra, I love grilling for Shabbos, especially in the summer. How do I effectively reheat grilled food on Shabbos?

-Aviva H.

-Rachel R.

Nancy, if you were stuck on a desert island for the rest of your life and could only have one dish with you, what would it be? -Naftoli M.

How fun! To maximize your disposable grill experience, follow these three simple tips: Place the grill flat on bricks or pavers, NOT on grass. Use indirect heat by keeping coals or briquettes on one side of the grill and the meat on the opposite side to maintain even heat. Bring along a quick read thermometer, which is inexpensive and keeps things accurate.

Plan on making recipes that will taste good at room temperature. Most food that is grilled doesn’t reheat very well, so be sure to take the food out of the fridge an hour before serving so that it could come to room temperature. Think about rare meat (see Butcher’s Cut feature on page 42), grilled chicken breasts or grilled vegetables (see Seasonal feature on page 27).

- Yehuda Joffre (@juddsmemphis)

- Shifra Klein (@shifraklein)

Have a question for a Fleishigs Foodie? DM us on Instagram @fleishigsmag.

I like mugs because they are very comfortable in your hand and they hold the hot things that you don't have to touch, so, umm... you know, coffee or hot tea. Specifically, my favorite mug of all mugs is my Fleishigs mug*, which is the best mug to put hot stuff in. - Nancy B. Fry (@nancy_b_fry)

*Editor's Note: Purchase this mug online at shop.fleishigs.com.

The content of all submissions (including letters, recipes and photographs) should be original and becomes property of Fleishigs Magazine, which reserves the right to republish and edit all correspondence received. By making a submission, you guarantee that you possess all necessary rights to grant the material to Fleishigs Magazine.

AUGUST 2021

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PROFILE

By: Jonathan Chodosh

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PROFILE

AUGUST 2021

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PROFILE

ery few foods are as contradictory as honey. It’s made by a sometimes aggressive, non-domesticated insect, yet is one of the sweetest natural substances on the planet. Thankfully, we don’t need to chase a local swarm of bees to forage for this sticky goodness, but may experience confusion amongst the labels plastering the golden jars at the grocery store. Here is a guide to help you comb through and clarify some local varieties.

RAW & UNFILTERED HONEY This refers to honey that is taken directly from a beehive and jarred straightaway through a process that involves carefully slicing the honeycomb open and scraping the honey away from the inside. Raw honey has some antibacterial and health properties and is easily recognized for its less-than-uniform, sometimes crystalized look. It’s never pasteurized (heated) or filtered. If your honey is crystallized, drop the whole jar into a small saucepan of water and simmer, covered, until the honey returns to its liquid state.

PROCESSED HONEY Processed honey is honey that has been pasteurized and filtered, which gives it a consistent look, prevents crystallization over time and increases shelf life. If you don’t use much honey, the pasteurized stuff is the way to go. If honey doesn’t say “raw,” it’s safe to assume that it’s pasteurized (cooked). Processing honey also removes the majority of its natural health benefits.

CLOVER, BLUEBERRY, ORANGE BLOSSOM & BUCKWHEAT HONEY Each of these varieties results from hives that create honey from the nectar of their respective plants. Clover honey comes from the clover plant, blueberry honey from the blueberry plant, etc. Clover honey can be easily found in the common honey bear container in the supermarket. Buckwheat honey

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PROFILE

is considered to be a gourmet variety, recognized by its deep molasses color and full-bodied flavor.

WILDFLOWER HONEY One of the most common types of honey found in the supermarket, wildflower honey comes from nectar from a variety of flowers. This is done either by combining different pure floral classifications of honey or bees’ access to a multitude of flowers, resulting in the amber liquid we all recognize and love.

MANUKA HONEY Manuka honey is made by European honey bees using nectar from flowering manuka trees native to Australia and New Zealand. It has incredible antibacterial properties and can be used to treat different ailments, especially for topical uses. It comes with its own unique flavor and high viscosity.

HONEY POWDER Honey powder is the result of mixing real honey with some other ingredients (usually corn maltodextrin) and then spray dried. It tastes exactly like honey and will lend a true honey flavor to any dish, but is more convenient for some uses (and not sticky!).

BEE POLLEN Nectar is not the only thing forager bees gather from flowers. They gather pollen and pass it off to hive worker bees who then store it to be used as

LOCAL HONEY the primary food source for bee larvae. This process of passing from one bee to another changes the composition of the pollen into something very special. It’s biodiverse, containing many bacteria and fungi along with the expected floral biomass. It’s suspected, but not yet substantiated, that bee pollen has great health benefits.

HONEYCOMB Honeycomb is another bee product that contains the physical hexagonal shells where bees store their honey, pollen and larvae. It’s primarily constructed from beeswax and contains bee propolis, a mixture of plant sap, beeswax and bees’ natural enzymes (saliva). The propolis acts as the “glue” for the hive, connecting the chains of honeycomb, and is said to have immense health benefits. Honeycomb may also contain small amounts of royal jelly, which is a bee byproduct that queen bees use to nourish their larvae. Royal jelly is not kosher, but the majority of honeycombs that are available for purchase are actually cleaned and refilled with raw honey, making them a kosher delicacy.

Different regions of the world enjoy different types of honey, which is partly why local honey is such a hot commodity. In the Southeastern and Midwestern United States, you may be able to find a jar of sourwood, which you can’t find on the Eastern Seaboard. In California, you should be able to find sage honey, which doesn’t exist in the Northeastern United States. In Europe, you can find linden and heather honeys, which are nearly impossible to find in America. Lastly, if you’re in Canada, you might find fireweed honey, which is nearly clear and looks more like light corn syrup than honey. There is such a demand for local, raw honey that private beekeepers have become creative when it comes to harvesting straight from the source. In cities, beehives dot the rooftops of tall buildings and backyard beekeepers grow honey in apiaries as well, some as simple as a wooden box. There is anecdotal science to support that raw, local honey can be used as an allergy treatment for individuals who suffer from bad seasonal allergies. Will that convince me to support my wife in her quest to build an apiary in our backyard? Maybe!

Jonathan Chodosh is the owner of Nerdy Dad Foods, a gourmet food company that delivers the best pestos, dips and more directly to your door. You can learn about his products at nerdydadfoods.com. In addition to creating allergen friendly foods, Jonathan, who resides in Bala Cynwyd, PA, is a practicing food scientist, private chef and dad to three humans and one dog. He actually reads his Instagram messages, so message him with your food conundrums @nerdydadfoods.

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TTE: ENDLE

B Y: S H I F R A K L E I N

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BACK POCKET

A multi-purpose sauce or vinaigrette is often the secret to the success of many meal prep plans, an industry that has exploded in recent years. This strategy is particularly great for Yom Tov season as well because of the sheer number of meals. This versatile honey vinaigrette checks the boxes of marinade, vinaigrette and sauce while simultaneously nodding to honey’s significance to Rosh Hashana.

Honey Vinaigrette Yield: ⅔ cup

The honey flavor in this vinaigrette really comes through without being too sweet. You can easily double or triple this recipe. ⅓ ¼ 2

cup honey cup lemon juice tablespoons chopped fresh herbs or

2 1 1 1 1 1 ¼

Whisk ingredients until combined. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Honey Roasted Salmon with Savory Pistachio Crumble Serves: 8

A while back I shared a pistachio-crusted salmon recipe on Instagram and a friend asked me how it stays crispy for Shabbos lunch. My answer? It doesn’t. I was determined to come up with a solution and this savory pistachio crumble is it. Roast the salmon separately, then top with the pistachio crumble right before serving. 1 1 ½ 1½

(4-pound) side of salmon or 8 (8-ounce) fillets teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups Honey Vinaigrette, divided Savory Pistachio Crumble, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Place salmon on a parchmentlined baking sheet. 2. Season salmon with salt and pepper and pour ½ cup vinaigrette over salmon, brushing to coat sides. Roast for 30-35 minutes. For individual salmon fillets, roast for 15-18 minutes. 3. To serve, brush some more vinaigrette over the salmon, reserving the remaining vinaigrette for serving. Top with crumble. 22

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scallions, optional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoon vegetable or grapeseed oil shallot, finely diced, optional clove garlic, minced teaspoon Dijon mustard teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Savory Pistachio Crumble Yield: 3 cups

This is an all-purpose savory topping that is excellent on chicken, fish or even steak. We can’t get enough of it. Feel free to customize the crumble to your taste with the addition of spices, herbs or crushed garlic. Any flaky cracker would work here, but Lieber’s Snackers are not only delicious, but nostalgic too. Preheat oven to 375°F. Pulse 1 sleeve non-dairy butter crackers in a food processor until coarsely crushed. Alternatively, put in a resealable bag and crush with a rolling pin. Mix cracker crumbs with ½ cup panko breadcrumbs, ½ cup finely chopped pistachios, ½ cup chopped fresh parsley, 3 tablespoons olive oil, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Spread on a baking sheet and toast for 5-8 minutes, until golden. Once cool, store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

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BACK POCKET

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BACK POCKET

Honey Roasted Vegetables Serves; 8

This recipe works with any vegetable that can be roasted. The flavor of the vinaigrette intensifies during the roasting process and helps the vegetables caramelize.

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4 2 ½ 1 1 3 ¼ 1

sweet potatoes, cut into wedges pounds baby turnips, halved cup Honey Vinaigrette teaspoon turmeric teaspoon kosher salt tablespoons tahini paste cup pomegranate seeds, for serving tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. 2. Toss sweet potatoes and turnips with vinaigrette, turmeric and salt. Arrange in an even layer on the baking sheet, using a second baking sheet if necessary. Roast for 25-35 minutes, until vegetables are just golden and tender. 3. To serve, drizzle with tahini and top with pomegranate seeds and parsley.

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BACK POCKET

Fruity Green Salad Serves: 8

8 1

½ ⅓

cups mixed greens grapefruit or 2 limes, segmented large Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced large bulb fennel, thinly sliced, fronds reserved for garnish cup dried cherries cup Honey Vinaigrette

Combine all salad ingredients and toss with vinaigrette. Garnish with fennel fronds, if desired.

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SEASONAL

S HLO MO

am all about utilizing leftovers and can always be found gathering leftover herbs and vegetables from parties or photo shoots to create soups, purées and dips. After a Thursday night summer barbecue, we were left with a surplus of grilled vegetables. We could have served them on Shabbos, but I decided to

KL E IN

try repurposing them into a few spur-of-the-moment dips — the results were such a hit that I now grill extra vegetables specifically for dips. The charred quality of the vegetables lends such an unexpected smoky flavor to the dips. If dips are not your thing, a grilled vegetable board is always a hit for a crowd.

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SEASONAL

Grilled Zucchini Serves: 3-6

⅓ 1 ½ 3

cup olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper large zucchinis, cut into 1-inch planks

Preheat a grill to medium heat. Whisk olive oil, salt and pepper and brush onto zucchini planks. Grill for 4 minutes per side.

Fire Roasted Zabaganoush Yield: 3 cups

If you can’t tolerate eggplant, you will love this version of babaganoush, which is traditionally made with eggplant. It provides the same smoky experience of babaganoush, using zucchini instead. Keep the dip chunky or smooth per your taste preferences, adding more mayonnaise as desired. Blend 2 grilled zucchinis (recipe above), 2 crushed garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon kosher salt until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.

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SEASONAL

Grilled Sweet Potatoes Serves: 3-6

⅓ 1 ½ 3

cup olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper medium sweet potatoes, halved

Preheat a grill to medium heat. Whisk olive oil, salt and pepper and brush onto sweet potatoes. Grill for 8 minutes per side.

Sweet Potato Hummus Yield: 2½ cups

This is an unexpected twist on hummus that will blow your guests away. Beyond a dip, it works well as a spread for sandwiches or wraps. Blend 1½ cups grilled sweet potatoes, ¼ cup tahini paste, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1-2 teaspoons lemon juice and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. With the motor running, stream in ¼ cup ice water, adding more as needed to reach desired consistency. To serve, drizzle with silan for extra sweetness or extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of za’atar for extra savoriness.

Grilled Tomatoes, Onion and Peppers Serves: 3-6

⅓ 1½ ½ 2 2 3

cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper red peppers, cut into thirds red onions, cut into quarters plum tomatoes, halved

Preheat a grill to medium heat. Whisk olive oil, salt and pepper and brush onto vegetables. Grill for 4 minutes, then flip peppers and onions and grill for another 4 minutes. Remove peppers and grill onions and tomatoes for another 4 minutes.

Fire Roasted Matbucha Yield: 3-4 cups

This matbucha recipe is not spicy at all, making it more family friendly. Feel free to add in a grilled jalapeño if you prefer your matbucha with some heat. Blend 1 grilled red pepper, 1 grilled red onion, 1½ grilled plum tomatoes, ¾ cup chopped fresh parsley or cilantro, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add ⅛ teaspoon cumin, if desired.

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BREAKING BREAD

Honey Challah Yield: 2 challahs

This is one of my favorite challah dough recipes and the use of honey makes it perfect for the holiday. FO R T H E C H A L L A H :

• Consistency of the challah dough is key! Dough that is too wet will be hard to shape and won’t bake properly, whereas dough that is too dry will not rise well and will taste dense and floury. • The goal is to create a cohesive ball of dough that is not floury to the touch. Dough consistency can vary from kitchen to kitchen based on weather, humidity levels and type of flour used. • To reach proper consistency gradually, simply add flour or water, 1-2 tablespoons at a time, as the dough comes together before the first rise. • If you live in a particularly humid area or are finding that you are having to add a lot of flour, try using ¼ cup less water at first and adding more as needed. • The recipe calls for instant yeast, which does not need to be proofed first and is added in with all the other ingredients. Instant yeast and bread machine yeast may be used interchangeably. While “rapid rise” and “quick rise” yeasts are forms of instant yeast, I don’t recommend them in this recipe. “Active dry” yeast may be substituted for the instant yeast measure for measure, just be sure to proof it first.

1 1 4¼ ⅓ ⅓ 2 4 2

tablespoon active dry yeast teaspoon sugar cups bread flour cup canola oil cup honey tablespoons brown sugar large egg yolks, beaten teaspoons kosher salt

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

egg yolk, beaten with 1½ teaspoons water

1. For the challah, mix yeast, sugar and 1 cup water in a large bowl. Set aside to proof until yeast bubbles. 2. Add remaining ingredients and mix until well combined. You can do this in a mixer, in a bread machine or by hand. If kneading by hand, knead for 10-15 minutes, until dough is smooth. If using a mixer, use a dough hook attachment and knead for 6-8 minutes, until dough is super smooth and pulls away from the bowl. If using a bread machine, follow manufacturer’s directions. 3. Cover with a towel and let rise in a dark place for 1½ hours. 4. Once dough has risen, remove from the bread machine or bowl and divide into 6 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll 3 portions into long ropes, then carefully braid together. 5. Place in a greased loaf pan or on a greased baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover with a towel and let rise for an additional 20-30 minutes in a dark place. 6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush with egg wash and bake for approximately 30-40 minutes, until golden brown.

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Salami and Apple Pull Apart Challah Roses Yield: 12 challah roses

It sounds like a strange combination, but it works so well. The savory salami and the sweet apple marry beautifully in this stunning one-of-a-kind centerpiece! N OT E : Be sure to dry apples and salami thoroughly; any extra moisture may cause the dough to not bake through.

1½ 18

honeycrisp apple, cored and sliced into ¼-inch thick pieces pounds (half recipe) Honey Challah dough (recipe above) Spicy brown mustard or honey mustard (¼-inch) slices salami, cut from a whole salami egg yolk, beaten with 1½ teaspoons water

1. Grease a 9-inch pie pan and set aside. Microwave sliced apples on a plate for 1 minute or until apples have softened and can bend easily. Place softened apples on a towel and dry completely. 2. Divide dough into 12 (2-ounce) portions. Using a rolling pin, roll each piece into a rectangle that is 8 inches long and 2 inches wide. Spread a thin layer of mustard on each portion of dough. Cut the slices of salami into semicircles. 3. Starting slightly away from the edge, place an apple slice along the top edge of the dough. Layer a piece of salami about halfway across the piece of apple (the rounded side up) so that the top edges stick out over the edge of the dough. Repeat with 2 more layers of apples and salami. 4. Fold up the bottom half of the dough, covering the bottom half of the apples and salami and pinch. Starting from one end, carefully roll up, being sure to keep the salami and apple slices in place. Seal dough at the end of the roll. 5. Place in the prepared pie pan and repeat with the remaining ingredients. Cover with a towel and let rise in a dark place for 20-30 minutes. 6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush with egg wash and bake for 30-35 minutes, until golden.

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BREAKING BREAD

AUGUST 2021

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BREAKING BREAD

Moroccan Beef and Date Stuffed Challah Yield: 1 challah

Honey and dates are classic Rosh Hashana ingredients, but sometimes I run out of ways to make them new and exciting. Adding them to this Moroccan-spiced beef and stuffing it into a sweet challah dough challah is a unique and delicious way to add these ingredients to your meal. N OT E : Soaking the dates before chopping them allows them to melt into the beef as they cook down.

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6 1 ½ 1 1 2 1½ 1 ¾ ¾ ½ 1 ½ 1½

pitted dried dates tablespoon oil red onion, diced clove garlic, minced pound ground beef tablespoons tomato paste teaspoons cumin teaspoon coriander teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon turmeric teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper pounds (half recipe) Honey Challah dough (recipe above) egg yolk, beaten with 1½ teaspoons water

AUGUST 2021

1. Soak dates in ½ cup warm water for 15 minutes. Chop once softened and set aside. 2. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add chopped dates and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add ground beef, tomato paste and spices and let brown until cooked through. 3. Divide dough into 3 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion into a long rope, then roll into rectangles approximately 10 inches long and 5 inches wide. 4. Place a third of the beef mixture down the center of each portion, leaving a ½-inch border all around. 5. From the long edge of the dough, gently bring both sides of the dough over the beef, pinch and seal. Repeat for the remaining strands. 6. Carefully braid together, then place in a greased loaf pan or on a greased baking sheet. Cover with a towel and let rise for 20 minutes in a dark place. 7. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush egg wash all over challah and bake until golden brown, approximately 45-55 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.

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BREAKING BREAD

AUGUST 2021

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BREAKING BREAD

Carrot Cake Babka Yield: 1 babka

My secret weapon in creating my recipes is my kind and patient sister. Her favorite dessert is carrot cake, so obviously when creating a babka perfect for the holidays and the fall season, I had to try a carrot cake version in her honor. N OT E S :

• To create a light and fluffy yeast babka dough that packs the same flavorful punch as a carrot cake, I recommend using a combination of melted margarine and shortening, which is not nearly deserving of the negative reputation it once had. Canola or vegetable oil can be used instead. • Freshly grated carrots make the dough extra soft as well. • While golden raisins and walnuts are optional, they do add wonderful texture and taste to each bite.

FO R T H E BA B K A D O U G H :

FO R T H E C I N N A M O N -VA N I L L A F I L L I N G :

½ 1

¼ 3 3 2 1 1 1½

1½ ¾ ½ ½

cups bread flour, plus more as needed cup vegetable shortening or canola oil tablespoons margarine, melted tablespoons dark brown sugar carrots, grated (about 1½ cups) large egg + 1 egg yolk tablespoon instant yeast teaspoons pure vanilla extract teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cloves

3 1 1 2-4 2-4

cup sugar (3.4-ounce) packet instant vanilla pudding mix tablespoons cinnamon tablespoon canola or vegetable oil egg yolk tablespoons golden raisins, optional tablespoons chopped walnuts or pecans, optional

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water

FO R T H E SW E E T G L A Z E :

cup confectioners’ sugar Pinch of kosher salt

1. For the babka dough, combine all ingredients in a large bowl with ½ cup water and knead well for 5 minutes. Add more flour or water, one tablespoon at a time, as needed, until desired consistency is reached. Cover with a towel and let rise in a dark place for 1½ hours. 2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide in half. Using a rolling pin, roll each portion into a rectangle, approximately 10 inches long and 5 inches wide. 3. For the filling, combine ingredients together with ¼ cup water. Spread half of the mixture over each dough rectangle, being sure to leave a ½-inch border all around the edges. Sprinkle raisins and walnuts on top of the filling, if using. 4. From the long edge of the dough, gently roll, jelly roll-style, then pinch the edges down the length of the strand to seal. Repeat with the second rectangle, then twist the strands together. Place into a greased 9x5-inch loaf pan. Cover with a towel and let rise in a dark place for 20-30 minutes.Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush babka with egg wash and bake for 35 minutes until golden. Let cool completely. 5. For the glaze, whisk confectioners’ sugar and salt with 1-2 tablespoons water until thick. Pour over the completely cooled babka right before serving.

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BREAKING BREAD

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DENVER STEAK, chuck eye roast, French roast and flanken are some other popular cuts from the chuck. We add trimmings from the chuck to our Premium Burger Blend for flavor as well. Chuck is the beefiest, most flavorful of the beef primals, with more marbling than the shoulder and a mix of medium-tender to chewier cuts that benefit from longer cooking or braising.

Chuck steaks are cut from a group of four different muscles, varying in size and shape from steer to steer. The variation in marbling and texture means that every bite is a little different. Our chuck steaks are boneless, about 1½-2 inches thick and 4-5 inches wide. Here’s another tip — our Delmonico steak, a butcher’s cut steak that is especially well-marbled and tender, is cut from the ribeye end of the chuck. So while a regular chuck steak may not have that special top-shelf badge, it’s still going to bring you some of the incredible beefy flavor found in a Delmonico.

AT THE HANAU HOUSE , you’re more likely to find chuck steak on the menu than any other steak. It’s one of our favorites for its great flavor and personality. While ribeye steaks are known for their tenderness and marbling, they are also relatively mild, which might be your thing. For us on the other hand, the flavor, fat and marbling are what make chuck steaks so great.

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We like to sear chuck steaks over high heat, then move them to indirect heat to finish cooking. Cook to your desired doneness, but please don’t overcook! Because of the connective sections, super-rare is not necessarily the best here. If you have an immersion circulator, chuck steaks do very well when cooked sous vide at 132-135℉ for a few hours (recipe follows). For seasoning, use a dry rub or season simply with salt and pepper before searing. Serve small steaks individually or slice and serve on a platter family-style.

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Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertlybutchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

AUGUST 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Asian-Style Chuck Stew Serves: 8

This stew is similar to braised short ribs. It’s unctuous, beefy and has a wonderfully tender texture. Serve with rice or add more vegetables, if desired. N OT E S :

• You can easily substitute flanken or short ribs for the chuck. • Zucchini is in season through the end of the summer and into early fall. Feel free to use any vegetable in its place, such as broccoli. • If you prefer firmer vegetables, add them in the last 15 minutes of cooking. ¼ 4 2 1

2 2 1 1 1 ¼ 1½ ½ 2

cup vegetable oil chuck steaks (2 pounds) teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper large onions, thinly sliced cloves garlic, thinly sliced (2-inch) piece ginger, thinly sliced teaspoon Chinese five spice teaspoon cumin seeds (optional) teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes cups white wine cup teriyaki sauce large zucchinis, sliced into 1-inch half moons

1. Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Pat steaks completely dry, then season with salt and pepper. Sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. 2. Add onions and sauté until deeply golden, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, Chinese five spice, cumin seeds (if desired) and red pepper flakes. Sauté for another 2 minutes, until fragrant. Add wine and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes, until wine is reduced by half. 3. Return meat to pot and add teriyaki sauce. Add just enough water to cover ¾ of the meat, then bring to a boil. Lower heat to low and cook, covered, for 2 hours. 4. Add zucchini and cook, covered, for another 30 minutes.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Sous Vide Chuck Steaks Serves: 4

This method makes ideal steakhouse copycats. If you follow the exact directions below (don’t skip the details, like patting the steak dry), you will end up with the best steak ever. N OT E : This method works well with rib steaks too.

4 2 1 3

chuck steaks teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons oil Extra-virgin olive oil and Maldon salt, for serving

1. Set an immersion circulator in a water bath and heat to 132-135°F. Place steak into sous vide bags, seal tightly and cook in the water bath for 3 hours. 2. Remove steaks and pat completely dry. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Heat a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add oil, then sear steaks for 2 minutes per side, just to develop a deep golden crust. 4. Let cool slightly, then slice. To serve, drizzle with extravirgin olive oil and a sprinkle of Maldon salt.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Israeli-Inspired Grilled Chuck Steak Serves: 4-8

This steak is perfect served at a summer barbecue and can even work served at room temperature on Rosh Hashana. To grill indoors, use a grill pan set over high heat. N OT E : This method is similar to the reverse sear method, but on the grill, and would work well with London broil too.

4 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ½

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chuck steaks (2 pounds), at room temperature tablespoons olive oil teaspoon cumin teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon coriander teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon sumac teaspoon sugar teaspoon turmeric Pomegranate Glazed Onions (recipe follows) AUGUST 2021

1. Pat steaks completely dry with paper towels. Mix olive oil, cumin, garlic powder, coriander, salt, pepper, sumac, sugar and turmeric. Rub all over steaks. 2. Heat a grill to medium-high on one side, leaving the other side off. When the grill reaches 250-275°F, grill steaks over indirect heat (the cooler side of the grill), increasing or decreasing grilling time to achieve desired doneness. 3. Move steaks to the hot side and grill for 1-2 minutes per side, until golden. 4. Let steaks rest for 5-10 minutes, then slice against the grain. OV E N M E T H O D: Cook steaks in a 250°F oven for about 25-30 minutes for medium-rare, then sear in a grill pan or cast iron pan over high heat until golden.

Pomegranate Glazed Onions Yield: 2½ cups

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add 4 sliced onions and ¼ cup brown sugar. Sauté, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes, until caramelized and sticky. Add ¼ cup pomegranate molasses and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and cook for 2-3 minutes, until thickened. Keep warm. www.fleishigs.com

Tablecloth from Loom & Table @loomandtable | loomandtable.com

AUGUST 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Summer Steak Salad Serves: 4-6

This salad is a simple celebration of steak and summer tomatoes, bursting with tons of flavor. Find the best, in-season tomatoes — heirloom tomatoes this time of year are particularly delicious. Since the kale is already dressed with a light vinaigrette, a little drizzle of balsamic glaze is all you need. 2

Basic Kale Salad (recipe follows) large heirloom tomatoes, sliced small red onion, thinly sliced Leftover steak, sliced Balsamic glaze (such as Tuscanini)

Arrange kale on a large platter. Top with sliced tomatoes, onions and steak. Drizzle with balsamic glaze.

Basic Kale Salad Serves: 4

The nutritional yeast is what truly makes this kale salad delicious. The key is to massage the kale with the dressing to soften it, making it much easier to eat. Mix 6-8 cups chopped kale with the juice of 2 lemons, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 2 teaspoons nutritional yeast. Massage kale until tender and fully coated. Taste and adjust seasoning to your liking.

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AUGUST 2021

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CULINARY SCHOOL

BY: SH I F RA KLEIN

WE HAVE BEEN hearing whispers in our circle of meat lovers about koji, a magical ingredient that works at super speed to create results similar to that of aging meats. Aging meat is a process of air drying and curing meat to result in a unique, one-of-a-kind texture and taste. We covered this topic during our first publication year, where we showcased The Ridge Steakhouse in Monsey, NY, with thousands of dollars worth of equipment dedicated to aging meat. Aging meat is a true art and takes a lot of practice, but isn’t too practical for the home cook. This is where the magic of koji enters the scene. Koji is a Japanese word that refers to the process of inoculating rice or barley with the mold aspergillus oryzae. Rice is the most common substrate that koji is grown on. The rice is then fermented and can be used as a vessel to further inoculate the mold into proteins and vegetables. The most elementary way to break into the koji game is using it to ferment, or age, meat.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

AUGUST 2021

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Chef Yehuda Joffre (of Judd’s Memphis fame) visited the Fleishigs test kitchen to share his love of koji and gave us a step-by-step guide to making a koji-cured steak in your home. In honor of this month’s Butcher's Cut, we cured chuck steak, but Judd truly recommends any cut of meat. It was a surprisingly simple technique that required some inexpensive tools and just a few days of air drying the meat in the fridge.

WHAT YOU NEED:

• Spice grinder • Wire cooling rack • Baking sheet • Koji rice (see page 12 for details) • Cast iron pan or heavy skillet

1 Grind koji in a spice grinder, until it reaches the consistency of a dry spice rub.

2 Pat steak dry completely.

3 Crust steak all over with koji.

4 Set a cooling rack atop a baking sheet to allow air to circulate evenly around the meat and create a consistent texture all around.

5 Refrigerate steak uncovered for 2-3 days.

6 Rinse steak with cold water, then pat dry.

7 Cook as desired. We seasoned the steak with kosher salt and black pepper, then seared in a scorching hot cast iron pan in 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil for 3 minutes per side. Koji-fermented steak is best cooked rare or medium-rare.

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AUGUST 2021

Looking to learn more about koji fermentation? Judd highly recommends Koji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation by Rich Shih and Jeremy Umanski. The book delves into what you can do with koji beyond steak, going so far as creating deli-like cured carrots and beets. It’s an amazing resource for those who are interested in experimenting with new ingredients and techniques. www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Yehuda Joffre, born and raised in Memphis, Tennessee, is the founder of Judd's Memphis Kitchen, a brand and former restaurant specializing in Southern comfort foods. Judd is also part of the Tripping Kosher (@trippingkosher) crew and, alongside CW Silverberg and Tzvika Tal, has been traveling the country and beyond, highlighting kosher restaurants, factories and establishments to create insightful and unique kosher media content. Judd consults with chefs and restaurants all over the country and recently partnered with The Rebbe’s Choice on their Southern BBQ Smoked Salmon, which can be purchased nationwide. Judd currently works as a food consultant and lives in Crown Heights, Brooklyn with his wife and two young children. Judd can be found on Instagram @juddsmemphis.

AUGUST 2021

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As a Syrian Jew growing up in Brooklyn, my entire extended family lived within walking distance. Holidays were always spent surrounded by aunts, uncles and cousins. Meals were split evenly between my maternal and paternal grandparents. When my husband and I decided to move to Long Island (more gasp-worthy than the fact that I married an Ashkenaz!), I was committed to keeping my Syrian traditions alive in our home. Food was my answer — though I always cooked basic dinners and Shabbat meals, it was only when we moved that I decided to really challenge myself and conquer the most complicated Syrian cooking. My great-grandmothers, grandmothers and mother are all huge influences in my cooking. In fact, my late maternal great-grandmother, Grandma Sarah Benun, was a matriarch in the Syrian community and famous for her kaak (savory crackers) and sambusak (cheese pastries). My paternal greatgrandmother, Grandma Rae Dayan, wrote a cookbook called For the Love of Cooking, which has become my bible. At 98 years old, she still inspires me to this day. The following recipes are inspired and adapted from many traditional Syrian dishes that have been passed down from generation to generation. For Rosh Hashana, we focus on sweet ingredients to have a Shana Tova U’metuka — a happy and sweet New Year!

Black Eyed Peas — Lubyeh with Flanken

Leeks — Leek Edgeh

Apples & Honey

Gourd — Candied Spaghetti Squash

Tongue — Sweet & Sour Tongue

Dates

Swiss Chard — Braised Swiss Chard with Chickpeas

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AUGUST 2021

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Pomegranate Seeds

TRADITION

s a Syrian Jew growing up in Brooklyn, my entire extended family lived within walking distance. Holidays were always spent surrounded by aunts, uncles and cousins. Meals were split evenly between my maternal and paternal grandparents. When my husband and I decided to move to Long Island (more gasp-worthy than the fact that I married an Ashkenazi!), I was committed to keeping my Syrian traditions alive in our home. Food was my answer — though I always cooked basic dinners and Shabbat meals, it was only when we moved that I decided to really challenge myself and conquer the most complicated Syrian cooking. My great-grandmothers, grandmothers and mother are all huge influences in my cooking. In fact, my late maternal greatgrandmother, Grandma Sarah Benun, was a matriarch in the Syrian community and famous for her kaak (savory crackers) and sambusak (cheese pastries). My paternal great-grandmother, Grandma Rae Dayan, wrote a cookbook called For the Love of Cooking, which has become my bible. At 98 years old, she still inspires me to this day. The following recipes are inspired and adapted from many traditional Syrian dishes that have been passed down from generation to generation. For Rosh Hashana, we focus on sweet ingredients to have a Shana Tova U’metuka — a happy and sweet New Year!

The typical Syrian simanim platter will include some or all of the following: Apples & honey • Leeks • Swiss Chard • Dates • Gourd Black eyed peas • Pomegranate seeds • Tongue

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Leek Edgeh Serves: 6-8

The Hebrew word for leek is related to the Hebrew word for “cut.” Therefore, we pray for God to cut down our enemies. While there are many ways to prepare leeks, my family’s preference is called edgeh, which is comparable to a latke. This recipe is from For the Love of Cooking by my great grandmother, Rae Dayan. My grandmother (and namesake) Mozelle serves a version of edgeh bulked up with meat and potatoes, sort of like a baked casserole. Either way, it’s delicious! N OT E : To prevent the oil from getting too hot, try the trending frying trick — place a piece of carrot in the oil; it picks up the burnt bits so they don’t end up in the food.

4 ⅓ 1 ¼

large leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and finely chopped eggs, beaten cup matzah meal teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Oil, for frying

1. Mix leeks, eggs, matzah meal, salt and pepper. 2. Heat a thin layer of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Once hot, place heaping tablespoons of the leek mixture into the oil and fry for 1-2 minutes per side, until crispy and golden brown. Let cool on a wire cooling rack.

Braised Swiss Chard With Chickpeas Serves: 6-12

The siman for swiss chard (krefsiah in Arabic) is very similar to the blessing for the leeks, beseeching God to remove our enemies. Served in small portions as part of simanim, this dish goes a very long way. It’s also an incredibly nutritious, filling and flavorful side dish that can accompany any meal. It can even stand on its own as a vegan meal over a bed of rice. 1 1 3 2 1

½ ⅛ 1-2 62

tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil onion, diced stalks celery, diced teaspoons kosher salt, divided bunch red or green Swiss chard, cleaned and chopped (12-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed teaspoon sumac teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoons lemon juice

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1. Heat olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery and 1 teaspoon salt and sauté until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add swiss chard, chickpeas, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, sumac and pepper. Stir until incorporated, then cover pot and simmer over low heat for 1 hour, stirring every 15-20 minutes. 2. Remove from heat and immediately stir in lemon juice.

Candied Spaghetti Squash Serves: 12

The word gourd in Hebrew is related to the word "to rip," so we ask that God “rip up” any evil decrees against us. Spaghetti squash is one of my favorites and this application combines the siman of the squash with the tradition of sweetness for Rosh Hashana. This dish is called helou kusa sha’riyya, or helou, which means candy in Arabic. It also helps that Rosh Hashana coincides with gourd season! 1 ¼ 1 ½

spaghetti squash cup sugar teaspoon lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add tongue, lower heat and simmer, covered, for 2½ hours. 2. Remove tongue from water and let cool for 15 minutes. Peel off the outer layer of the tongue, then let cool completely in the fridge. 3. To serve, thinly slice the tongue and serve as is with mustard. Alternatively, thinly slice the tongue and place in a baking dish. Cover with sauce and cook, covered, for 2030 minutes at 350°F.

Lubyeh with Flanken Serves: 6-10

This black eyed pea dish can be made with or without flanken, but my family loves it with meat, making it a full meal. The siman for black eyed peas is asking God to increase our merits. Everyone always comes back for seconds!

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Place whole spaghetti squash in a glass baking dish with 1 cup water. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 45-60 minutes, until fork tender. Let cool.

1 3 ¾

2. Once cooled, cut in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and, using a fork, string the flesh to resemble spaghetti.

3. Heat sugar, lemon juice and 1 cup water in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Stir until sugar dissolves completely, about 5 minutes. 4. Add spaghetti squash and stir well to coat. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 2-3 hours, until water is absorbed. Remove from heat and stir in salt.

Sweet and Sour Tongue Serves: 8-12

The blessing for tongue, one of the most underrated proteins, is for us to ask God to help us lead (“be as a head”) instead of follow (“be as a tail”). Many butchers give beef tongue a corned beef-like treatment by vacuum sealing the tongue with pickling spices. This helps tenderize the tongue and adds great flavor and texture. You can buy it fully cooked and ready to eat at a deli counter or cured in pickling spices (cooking needed) at your local butcher or in the meat section of most kosher supermarkets. Tongue benefits from being simmered in water, then cooled, sliced and served with sauce.

pickled tongue Mustard, for serving Sweet and sour sauce of choice (such as the Kibbe Cherry sauce on page 67), optional

1 2

1 1 1

pound bone-in flanken teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided onion, chopped (12-ounce) bags frozen black eyed peas tablespoon tomato paste teaspoon allspice teaspoon cinnamon

1. Season flanken on both sides with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. 2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear flanken for 5-7 minutes per side, then transfer to a plate. 3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in the pot over medium heat. Add onions and 1 teaspoon salt and sauté until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add black eyed peas, tomato paste, allspice, cinnamon and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Lower heat to medium-low and Sauté for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. 4. Return flanken to the pot with 3 cups water and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 3 hours, stirring every so often. 5. Let cool, then remove meat from the bones and add back to the pot. Season with more salt and pepper, to taste. www.fleishigs.com

TRADITION

Saucy Green Beans Serves: 8-12

I always have allspice in my spice cabinet, as most Syrian cooks usually do. I love the subtle flavor it lends to all kinds of dishes — a little goes a long way — and I especially love it in this green bean dish. I use haricot vert, which are French green beans that are thinner and don’t require trimming, making this stellar side dish a breeze. N OT E : Use fish-free Worcestershire sauce if

serving this dish with meat.

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1 1 4 1 2 1 1 2 2

1 1 1

tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil onion, thinly sliced into half moons cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste pounds haricot vert or green beans, trimmed (25-ounce) jar crushed tomatoes (8-ounce) can tomato sauce tablespoons tomato paste tablespoons tamarind paste or prune butter tablespoon Worcestershire sauce teaspoon allspice teaspoon cinnamon

1. Heat olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic and salt and sauté until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and stir well, adding water, 1 tablespoon at a time, as needed. 2. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally for about 15 minutes. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Season with salt, to taste.

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TRADITION

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AUGUST 2021

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TRADITION

Kibbe Cherry Serves: 6

Grandma Lillie’s Potatoes Serves: 8

These potatoes have always been a staple on my grandmother Lillie’s Shabbat and holiday table. When I asked her for the recipe, in good Syrian fashion, she told me, “a lot of oil, a lot of paprika, a lot of salt and a little onion.” My sisters and I still debate over whether she uses basil or oregano. I shied away from making these potatoes for years because of the amount of oil, but they have easily become one of my kids’ favorite side dishes. 7-9 ½ ½ 1 2 2 ½

Yukon Gold potatoes, cubed onion, chopped cup extra-virgin olive oil heaping tablespoon paprika teaspoons smoked paprika (or more plain paprika) teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon dried basil

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a large glass dish. 2. Toss all ingredients together in the dish and cook, uncovered, for 1½-2 hours, until golden and crispy.

Kibbe, which means ball in Arabic, is a staple in Syrian cuisine. It’s traditionally made from a mixture of ground meat, ground bulgur (or rice) and spices, which is wrapped around more meat and spices and formed into iconic teardrop shapes or one long roll. The kibbe balls are then used as a blank canvas and served in a multitude of ways. Kibbe cherry is my favorite because of the combination of sweet and savory flavors. This recipe is inspired by the version my mom, Sari Tawil, makes. If you are fortunate enough to live near a kosher supermarket with an ethnic section, packaged kibbe balls can be found frozen (I source mine from I&D Glatt in Long Island). If not, make a basic meatball recipe instead (recipe follows) or make your own kibbeh roll (step-by-step instructions follow). N OT E S :

• If you can’t find tamarind paste, also known as oot in Syrian cooking, prune butter, which I use in many Syrian dishes, is my favorite substitute. • I use Oregon canned dark sweet cherries, which is certified kosher by OU. If using frozen cherries instead, add a few tablespoons of brown sugar, to taste, as frozen cherries have no added sweetener, whereas canned cherries do.

1 2 1

2 2 1

kibbe roll (recipe follows) tablespoons oil (15-ounce) can dark sweet cherries (such as Oregon) (12-ounce) jar chili sauce (such as Heinz) tablespoons tamarind paste or prune butter teaspoons lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place kibbe roll in a glass dish, drizzle with oil and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. 2. To make the sauce, combine cherries, chili sauce, tamarind, lemon juice and salt. Pour over kibbe roll, lower oven to 350°F and cook, covered, for another 45 minutes. 3. Transfer kibbe roll to a cutting board, slice, then return to sauce, making sure every piece is immersed. Cover and cook for another 30 minutes. CLASSIC MEATBALLS: Mix 1½ pounds ground beef with 1 egg, ⅓ cup flavored breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon onion powder, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ¼ teaspoon allspice until just incorporated. Form meatballs and lower into simmering sauce in a pot or Dutch oven. Cover and simmer for 50-60 minutes.

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TRADITION

Kibbeh Roll Serves: 12

This recipe is adapted from For the Love of Cooking by my great-grandmother, Rae Dayan. S H I F R A’S N OT E : If you’re adventurous in the kitchen, try making kibbe roll from scratch. It’s not as hard as it seems! FO R T H E K I B B E H ST U F F I N G :

1 ⅓ 2 1 1 1

pound ground beef cup chopped walnuts cloves garlic, minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon allspice teaspoon cinnamon

FO R T H E K I B B E H RO L L :

7 1¼

ounces rice pounds ground beef

1. For the kibbeh stuffing, mix ground beef, walnuts, garlic, salt, allspice and cinnamon until just incorporated. Divide into 2 equal portions. Set aside. 2. For the kibbeh roll, finely grind rice in a spice grinder (it should almost resemble powder). Mix with ground beef until well combined. 3. Lay a piece of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a work surface and place one of the portions of kibbeh roll mixture on it. Top with another piece of parchment paper or plastic wrap, then roll into a (11x8-inch) rectangle. 4. Remove the parchment and spread half of the kibbeh stuffing evenly over the surface of the rectangle. Roll up, jelly roll-style. Repeat with the remaining kibbeh roll and kibbeh stuffing to make another roll. Cook according to the Kibbeh Cherry recipe above.

When she isn’t perusing the aisles of Trader Joe’s or strength training, Mozelle Goldstein is a pediatric hematology/oncology nurse by day and recipe developer and baker by night. She sells baked goods like sourdough, challah, cookies and Syrian specialties on a weekly basis out of her home in Woodmere, NY, where she lives with her husband and three children. Find her on Instagram at @sy_in_li. 68

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L'CHAIM

TA B O R , C A B E R N E T S A U V I G N O N ,

C H Â T E A U M E Y N E Y,

J U D A I C A V I N E YA R D , 2 0 1 7

SA I N T- E ST É P H E , 2 0 1 8

While Tabor winery is known for its Galilean wines, they were able to source special Cabernet grapes from Judaica, a small vineyard located in Emek Bracha (Blessed Valley), which is situated in the southern Judean Hills between Jerusalem and Hebron. The unique terroir has yielded a powerful and layered wine with notes of ripe black fruit and roasted Mediterranean herbs, accentuated by hints of toasted oak and vanilla. This wine would pair well with hearty dishes like braised brisket and beef or lamb stew.

For the Bordeaux lovers (and for those who have yet to jump on the bandwagon), this wine is from one of the most respected estates in the appellation of Saint-Estèphe. As the first kosher wine from this winery, we are blessed that it comes from the stellar 2018 vintage. Rich, complex and concentrated, this wine is an elegant blockbuster of ripe black and purple fruit notes with earthy and smoky undertones. This is the wine to drink with a standing rib roast or shelve it to age for the next 15 years or so.

D O M A I N E VA L L O N D E S G L A U G E S , C Ô T E A U X D 'A I X EN PROVENCE , 2020 One of my favorite rosés of the year, this newcomer from the Provence region of France showcases a complex array of mineral notes with bracing acidity and a long, mouth-watering finish. It’s a great kiddush wine to enjoy after many hours of davening at shul and can accompany light dishes like sashimi and even beef tartare.

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L'CHAIM

BA RO N H E R ZO G,

C H Â T E A U D E R AY N E

P I N OT G R I G I O,

V I G N E AU, SAU T E R N E S,

2020

2018

The Baron Herzog line has been completely revamped with wines that look and taste even better than ever! This Pinot Grigio features tart and juicy fruity notes, such as peach, Meyer lemon and hints of honeydew. Its bright acidity and slightly sweet finish make it the perfect pairing for salads and fish appetizers.

After the superb inaugural 2014 kosher release, the 2018 managed to outdo it. This is the ultimate dessert wine, the wine that will make your year as sweet as honey. With notes of orange marmalade, caramel, almonds and ginger, this sophisticated wine can handle almost any dessert, but I would love to drink it with a piece of hot apple strudel and some (pareve) vanilla ice cream.

NEW WINES FOR THE NEW YEAR BY: GABRIEL GELLER This Rosh Hashana, perhaps more than ever before, we all want a fresh new start. After over a year of repeated lockdowns and all sorts of restrictions (depending on where you live), we are all looking forward, God willing, to a healthy and happy year ahead, one that is much more normal than the last two. To symbolize renewal, we like to wear new clothes, try new recipes and taste new — or vintage — wines. Therefore, I have selected some new wines to pair with your Yom Tov meals.

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BY: SHIFRA KLEIN RECIPES BY: ADINA SCHLASS PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER

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A D I N A SC H L ASS G R E W U P in Sydney, Australia in a family of dedicated cooks. Her grandmothers were Hungarian and Russian, so she grew up eating a lot of traditional food, such as chicken paprikash, braised meats and kugels. Cooking aside, Adina truly made her mark in the kitchen from a young age, helping plate and serve the Shabbos and Yom Tov meals that her parents often hosted. “I’d slice the lemons and arrange the herbs — I loved plating and garnishing from very early on," she explains. It was her passion for both food and plating that influenced her Instagram page, @the_chefs_wife_, which began as a hobby four years ago and quickly grew into a career as a lifestyle influencer and food stylist. When Adina married Juda Schlass, a chef and owner of Alenbi Kitchen in Crown Heights, she was already pretty comfortable in the kitchen. However, being “the chef ’s wife” taught her the nuances of elevating a dish and making it shine. “I learned how to use produce in a way that maximized flavor and depth in a dish,” she shares. “I moved away from pre-made sauces and condiments and started using fresh herbs and spices the way they were intended.” It was this drive that guided Adina to further think outside of the box from the mundane “heimish” food that she was used to. "I was hesitant to try different cuisines. But the first time I made a ramen bowl, I learned that once you understand certain flavor components

of Asian cuisine, it’s easy to apply them yourself, whether you have a recipe or not," Adina shares. She also began appreciating a lighter, purer form of cooking. “I always loved cooking, but I was super traditional and my palate had not matured,” she says. Slowly but surely, with Juda’s influence, Adina began understanding the importance of layering flavors and textures. Dishes were no longer one dimensional, rather they became composed and thought out. Adina showcases this daily on her Instagram page and in the work she puts out, topping fresh fish with chopped herbs, adding greens to her vegetable soups and garnishing meat and chicken with flaky salt, proving that good quality ingredients are transformative and easy to use. Once Adina expanded her horizons and developed a deep understanding and love for ingredients, her talent for entertaining flourished, which Adina explains to be “more than just good food.” Much like a restaurant, successful entertaining is like a symphony — atmosphere, aesthetic, ambiance, music, the host — it all comes together to create a harmonious experience beyond just the food. Adina further explains that putting a small amount of effort into the decor and overall vibe of the event, whether intimate or larger scale, is infinitely more chic than something visibly opulent. Adina’s simple, understated, effortless (and often inexpensive) ideas and aesthetic make a lasting impression.

New for

the

new year

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Farro Risotto

A D I NA ’ S TI PS :

Serves: 8

Risotto can seem intimidating, but by starting with cooked farro, it becomes simple and foolproof.

• A creamy vegetable

purée is a wonderful staple to have during the holiday season and even for a mid-week dinner. It serves not only as a satisfying side dish alongside any protein, but as a sauce as well.

• Having fresh herbs on hand is key and

allows you to put together a quick gremolata (such as the one on page 83) in minutes to elevate any dish.

• Master techniques so that you don't always need to rely on recipes. • Before cooking, think about the big picture, such as plating and serving, which will help you create balanced flavors.

• Sous vide cooking is a

lifesaver when cooking for a crowd. You don’t want to mess up expensive lamb chops or spend a lot of time and effort babysitting meat. This is where the sous vide comes in — precise cooking every time.

2 3 3 1½ 4½

Umami-Crusted Ribeye Serves: 8

This recipe can be made with Delmonico, French roast, standing rib roast or chuck roast. A hint of truffe makes it feel rich and decadent in the simplest way possible. Umami spice can be found by Trader Joe’s or Simply Organic brands.

2-3 3 ¼

2 1

(5-pound) rib roast, at room temperature tablespoons umami seasoning cloves garlic, minced cup non-dairy butter substitute (such as Earth Balance), at room temperature teaspoons freshly ground black pepper teaspoon kosher salt Farro Risotto, for serving (recipe follows) Truffle Mushroom Sauce, for serving (recipe follows) Microgreens, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Mash umami spice and garlic with non-dairy butter to form a paste. 2. Season roast with pepper and salt, then rub paste all over roast until evenly coated. 3. Place in a roasting pan and cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Lower oven to 350°F and cook for 1½ hours. Let rest, then slice. Serve with risotto and mushroom sauce. Garnish with microgreens. M A K E I N A DVA N C E : Cook for 1½ hours in a 450°F oven, then reheat in a 300°F oven for 20 minutes before serving. Let rest, then slice.

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tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute shallots, minced teaspoons kosher salt, divided cups cooked farro (cook al dente according to package instructions) cups homemade (page 80) or store bought chicken broth, divided sprigs fresh thyme

1. Heat non-dairy butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallots and 1 teaspoon kosher salt and sauté until tender, about 10-15 minutes. 2. Add cooked farro and sauté for 15 minutes, until toasted slightly. Add half the broth, thyme and 1 teaspoon salt. Lower heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring every few minutes until broth is absorbed. 3. Add remaining broth and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Simmer for 35-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until farro is creamy and all liquid is absorbed. 4. Cover and remove from heat to steam for 5 minutes. Season with more salt, if needed. M A K E I N A DVA N C E : To reheat on Yom Tov, place in a very low-temperature oven, adding some chicken broth as needed to avoid drying out. Stir again before serving.

Truffle Mushroom Sauce Serves: 8

Heat 1 tablespoon truffle oil and 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 cup torn trumpet or king oyster mushrooms and 1 tablespoon truffle zest; sauté for 15 minutes, until mushrooms soften and develop some color. Add 2-3 sprigs thyme, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and sauté for 3 minutes. Add 1 cup white wine, bring to a soft boil and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add 1½ cups homemade (page 80) or store bought chicken broth and simmer for 15 minutes. www.fleishigs.com

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Roasted Heirloom Tomato and Fennel Broth Serves: 8-12

Late August and early September is peak tomato season and this soup makes great use of the sweet flavors of these tomatoes. It’s also a great way to use up any tomatoes that are past their prime. N OT E : To keep this broth fully vegetarian, simply use vegetable broth, either homemade or store bought.

3 ¼ 1 1 1 5 1 3 3 2 1 1 1

pounds heirloom tomatoes, quartered cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided tablespoon whole fennel seeds medium Vidalia onion, chopped bulb fennel, chopped (reserve fronds for garnish) cloves garlic, minced tablespoon tomato paste quarts homemade (recipe follows) or store bought chicken broth sprigs thyme bay leaves sprig rosemary tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss tomatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil on the baking sheet and roast for 20-30 minutes, until lightly golden yet still firm. 2. While tomatoes are roasting, heat fennel seeds in a small pan over medium heat and toast for 3-4 minutes, moving the pan constantly so as to not burn them. Transfer to a plate. 3. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and fennel and sauté until softened, about 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for another 2 minutes. Add tomato paste and toasted fennel seeds and sauté for another minute.

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4. Add roasted tomatoes, making sure to scrape everything from the baking sheet into the pot, including the juices. Stir, smashing the tomatoes slightly. 5. Add broth, herbs, salt and pepper. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes. Let cool. 6. Pour soup through a fine mesh strainer, discarding the solids (or discard the herbs and purée the solids for a delicious roasted tomato dip). To clarify the broth even more, run it through a cheesecloth 1-2 times. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed. S E RV I N G SU G G E ST I O N S :

• For a clean look, garnish with reserved fennel fronds. • For a traditional take, serve with HERBED MATZAH BALLS: Follow directions on the back of a box of matzah ball mix, adding 1 cup chopped parsley. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, then form into balls and simmer as directed. • For a bit of a kick, add a drizzle of chili oil. • For a modern take, add a dollop of pesto. • For a more hearty soup, add a small portion of pulled chicken or pulled short ribs in the center of the bowl and ladle broth around it. Garnish with fennel fronds or microgreens.

Homemade Chicken Broth Yield: 6-8 cups

Soup is only as good as its broth, so here's a quick homemade version. Add 1 celery stalk, 1 pound carrots, 1 sweet Vidalia onion, 1 fennel bulb, 3-4 beef marrow bones, 2 pounds chicken bones, 1 pound chicken necks and 4-6 peppercorns to a large stock pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 4-5 hours. Strain well and refrigerate once cooled, then skim fat.

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Sous Vide Lamb Chops with Sunchoke Cream and Braised Leeks Serves: 4-6

Sous vide meat can be made ahead of time and then seared fresh before the meal on Yom Tov. Just take the meat out of the fridge and bring to room temperature before searing.

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4 2 1 3-4 2

double or 8 single lamb chops teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper sprigs fresh thyme tablespoons olive oil, divided Sunchoke Cream (recipe follows) Braised Leeks (recipe follows) Mint Gremolata (recipe follows)

1. Set an immersion circulator in a water bath and heat to 133°F. Season lamb chops with salt and pepper, place into sous

vide bags with thyme and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Seal tightly and cook in the water bath for 1 hour. 2. Remove lamb chops and pat completely dry. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Sear lamb chops for 2-3 minutes per side, until golden. 3. To serve, spread sunchoke cream on individual plates or a serving platter, then top with braised leeks and lamb chops. Garnish with gremolata.

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Sunchoke Cream Serves: 4-6

This cream only has a few ingredients, but packs tons of flavor. Its smooth texture makes it the perfect accompaniment to any protein. Even if you’re not making lamb, this is a wonderful basic purée to have in your fridge to serve alongside vegetables, meat or chicken. If you can’t find sunchokes, feel free to use white cabbage, cauliflower or fennel. NOTE: Sunchokes are also called Jerusalem artichokes, though they have no relation to Jerusalem or artichokes. They are, in fact, a tuberous root vegetable high in iron and potassium that resembles fresh ginger but tastes like a cross between a potato and an artichoke heart. 15-20 sunchokes, peeled 3-4 cloves garlic, sliced 6 sprigs fresh thyme, divided 2-3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided ⅓ cup olive oil

1. Add sunchokes, garlic and 3 sprigs thyme to a pot and fill halfway with water. The sunchokes should not be completely submerged. Generously salt the water. Bring to a boil and cook, covered, until sunchokes are fork tender. Discard thyme. 2. Drain and transfer to a high-powered blender or food processor with the leaves of remaining 3 thyme sprigs. With the motor running, drizzle in olive oil. Blend for at least 8 minutes, until creamy and velvety.

Braised Leeks Serves: 4-6

8 2 3-4 2 2 ¾ 3

small leeks (or 4 large), white and light green parts only bay leaves sprigs fresh thyme cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced cups homemade (page 80) or store bought chicken broth cup dry white wine tablespoons olive oil

2 ½

teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Cut leeks in half lengthwise, then slice into thirds. Rinse thoroughly to remove any dirt. Arrange leeks in a large, shallow sauté pan over medium heat. Add bay leaves, fresh thyme, garlic, broth, wine, olive oil, salt and pepper. 2. Gently simmer, covered, for 30-60 minutes, turning leeks a few times, until leeks are fork tender.

Mint Gremolata Combine 1 cup finely chopped fresh mint, ⅓ cup chopped pine nuts, the zest of 1 lemon and a generous pinch of Maldon salt.

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Tuna Carpaccio with Apple, Fig & Pomegranate Mostarda Serves: 8

Using a sharp knife is imperative to getting thin, even slices. Take care to slice the fish in one smooth motion instead of rocking back and forth. NOTE: If you are wary of raw fish, sear the tuna in a hot pan for 2-3 minutes per side. Thinly slice, then proceed with the recipe. 2

pounds sushi-grade tuna, thinly sliced Sriracha Honey (recipe follows) Apple, Fig & Pomegranate Mostarda (recipe follows) Pomegranate seeds, microgreens, Maldon salt and extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish

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1. Using a sharp knife, slice the tuna into a rectangular block, saving the trimmings for snacking or tartare, then slice thinly against the grain. 2. Arrange tuna slices down the center of a chilled platter. Drizzle with Sriracha honey and top with mostarda. Garnish with pomegranate seeds, microgreens, Maldon salt and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Apple, Fig & Pomegranate Mostarda Heat ½ cup dry vermouth or white wine, ½ cup sugar, 1½ tablespoons mustard seeds, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 2 bay leaves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Simmer, stirring until the sugar

dissolves, about 7 minutes. Add 2 peeled and diced Granny Smith apples, 8 dried figs, ½ cup pomegranate juice and 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender and liquid is reduced and syrupy. Remove from heat and stir in 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Sriracha Honey Mix 2 tablespoons honey, 2 teaspoons Sriracha and 1 teaspoon hot water and stir well until incorporated. Adjust quantities as desired.

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Rhubarb Compote with Pecan Crumble Serves: 8

I'm not a baker, so when it comes to dessert I want the easiest, simplest recipe — something I can throw together at the last minute without thinking. N OT E : Rhubarb can be quite tart, so taste the compote and adjust the sweetness to your family’s preference.

2 1 -½ ⅓ 1

(16-ounce) packages frozen rhubarb cup fresh or frozen strawberries cup sugar (2-inch) knob fresh ginger, peeled and halved Vanilla ice cream, for serving Pecan Crumble (recipe follows)

1. Add rhubarb, strawberries and sugar to a large saucepan and set aside for about 10 minutes to macerate. 2. Add ginger and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until rhubarb has broken down, but some pieces remain, about 5 minutes. 3. Remove from heat. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream and sprinkle crumble on top.

Pecan Crumble Yields: 1⅔ cups

This is a wonderful topping to have on hand all holiday season long. The best part is how versatile it is — use any nut, such as almonds or walnuts. You can freeze it raw, then bake fresh as needed. It makes a great topping for ice cream, sorbet or baked apples. Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix ⅓ cup whole wheat flour, ⅓ cup all-purpose flour, 3½ tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute, ¼ cup brown sugar and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, using your fingers to incorporate. Stir in 1 cup chopped candied pecans and mix to combine. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes, until dried and golden. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for 1-2 days or in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Adina is the creative mind behind the popular lifestyle Instagram account @the_chefs_wife_, where she showcases her creativity from tablescapes and recipes to home styling and interior design. Adina is known for her minimal and effortlessly simple aesthetic and has been featured in many publications and online platforms. Adina lives in Brooklyn, NY with her children and husband Juda, the owner and creative mastermind behind Alenbi Kitchen in Crown Heights.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Apples hold spiritual significance on Rosh Hashana, which also coincides with their peak season. To celebrate this tradition, I came up with three simple apple desserts that will impress guests of all ages. AUGUST 2021

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Apple Slab Pie Serves: 8-10

This galette is really easy to make and is a true crowd pleaser. The creamy filling tastes dairy and provides just enough richness to balance the tart apple flavor. 1 ⅓ ¾ 2 1 3

egg + 2 egg yolks, divided cup sugar cup non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich’s) tablespoons apple liqueur (such as Calvados) sheet pie dough Gala or Granny Smith apples, cored and thinly sliced (peel if desired) tablespoon raw or muscovado sugar

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Whisk egg, 1 egg yolk and sugar until combined, then add whipping cream and Calvados; whisk until thoroughly combined. Set aside. 2. Place pie dough on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Arrange apples in three rows on the dough, leaving a 2-inch border around the edge. Bring the borders in over the apples, creating a rectangular galette. 3. Brush exposed dough with remaining egg yolk, then sprinkle with raw sugar. 4. Gently pour custard over apples and bake for 25-35 minutes, until set.

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Apple Crumb Cake Serves: 12

Crumb cake and apple cake meet in this easy-tomake, delicious cake that requires only one bowl — after pouring the batter into the pan, use the same bowl to prepare the crumbs. N OT E : Granny Smith apples retain the most texture and have a tart flavor that pairs perfectly with the sweet crumbs. Want something firm, but sweeter? Use Golden Delicious apples. For a softer, custardlike apple texture, go with Cortland or McIntosh apples. FO R T H E CA K E :

½ cup oil ½ cup apple cider 1½ cups sugar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 apples, peeled and chopped into 1-inch chunks ½ teaspoon cinnamon FO R T H E C RU M B TO P P I N G :

1 6 ½ 2 ½ 1 ½ ¼

cup all-purpose flour tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute, melted cup dark brown sugar tablespoons sugar cup sea salt caramel chips (such as DeeBest), optional teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch pan and set aside. 2. For the cake, mix oil, apple cider, sugar, eggs and vanilla. In a separate bowl, mix flour, baking soda and salt. Add wet ingredients to the dry, then pour into the prepared pan. 3. Toss apples with cinnamon and pour onto the cake batter. 4. For the crumb topping, combine ingredients until crumbly, then sprinkle all over the cake. 5. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 45-50 minutes. Let cool before slicing.

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Apple Berry ‘Pop-Tarts’ Serves: 8

2 1 ⅔ 2 1 1½ 1 2 ½

Cortland or McIntosh apples, peeled and chopped cup frozen strawberries cup sugar Zest and juice of 1 lemon sheets pie dough egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water cups confectioners’ sugar tablespoon almond milk teaspoons apple cider teaspoon apple pie spice

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Add apples, strawberries, sugar, lemon zest and lemon juice to a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer until thickened, about 25 minutes. Set aside to cool. Purée mixture if a smooth consistency is desired. 2. Cut each sheet of pie dough into 8 (2x5-inch) rectangles. Fill each rectangle with about 1 tablespoon jam, then top with another rectangle and crimp the edges. 3. Brush with egg wash and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool. 4. Whisk confectioners’ sugar, almond milk, apple cider and apple pie spice until smooth. Drizzle onto cooled pastries.

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TRAVEL

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TRAVEL

etting up before 5:00 AM every morning and spending hours driving over dusty, unpaved roads under the hot sun may not sound like everyone’s ideal vacation, but allow me to convince you why an African safari should definitely be at the top of your bucket list.

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EARING THE ROAR of a lion while lying in your tent at night, catching a glimpse of a famously elusive leopard, sitting quietly in the shadow of an enormous elephant and watching wild buffalo graze for food — a safari guarantees some of the most breathtaking and diverse wildlife encounters you could ever imagine. Having enjoyed our first safari in South Africa in 2017, my mother and I decided to take our annual trip to one of the most iconic safari destinations — the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Our trip was a fly-in safari to two lodges in Kenya — one located in the dry, rocky scrubland of the Samburu region of Northern Kenya and the second in the sweeping savannahs of the Maasai Mara. The internal flights were aboard tiny, 12-seater Cessna aircrafts that operate almost like a bus service, dropping passengers off at different airstrips. Landing on a narrow dirt airstrip was particularly nerveracking (for me — the pilots seemed fine!) because there is no air traffic control to guide your descent, just a ranger

100

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employed to clear the runway of giraffes and zebras. Our tiny plane bumped down on the remote landing strip, which served our safari lodge, and we were greeted by Joseph, our driver, guide and a Samburu warrior. The Samburu are a nomadic pastoralist tribe related to the Maasai, and like the Maasai, they retain their traditional dress, eschewing modern clothing. The men are known as “peacocks of the north” due to their beautiful and intricate finery. Joseph’s arms were adorned with multicoloured beaded bangles that the women in his village had made for him. The safari started right away on the drive to the lodge as we spotted some giraffe and zebra subspecies, endemic only to this region of Kenya. Saruni Samburu is a remote luxury lodge set up high on a giant rock face with spectacular views towards Mount Kenya. It is the only lodge in the Kalama Conservancy, so guests have sole access to almost 500,000 acres of wilderness. The six villas are perched on the edge of the rocky slope, giving 360° views of the valley below. Whether in bed, the living room or taking a bath, guests can watch elephants and giraffes ambling across the sprawling savannah beneath them. Any downtime between game drives can be spent at one of the two www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

infinity pools or having a massage in the spa tent. Saruni is an unfenced camp, so our visit began with a lengthy safety briefing and signing several disclaimers. During the day you are allowed to walk around the camp, but at night you must remain inside the villa at all times unless accompanied by an Askari. Askari are local Samburu warriors who are paid to guard the camp at night from any marauding wildlife. If you want to leave the villa, you have to shine your torch out of the door to summon an Askari to escort you. This is the case at any unfenced lodge, but at Saruni it is especially advisable to be on guard, as Ugali the leopard has made her home right next to the lodge. The majority of the staff come from the local Samburu community and the lodge pays a per-bed, per-night fee to the community, as they are renting their land. The conservancy model in Kenya aims to provide the local tribal communities with an income to help engage the tribes in wildlife conservation. Game drives take place in open jeeps, which allow guests to come very close to the animals. We were within touching distance of lions, elephants and even a leopard. In addition to

being some of the most beautiful animals on earth, African animals are also some of the most dangerous. Despite this, an open vehicle is very safe if you stay seated and quiet within the vehicle. Most animals only perceive the outline of the jeep and can’t distinguish what is inside it unless you shout or stand up, which breaks the silhouette. Animals are habituated to the jeeps and thus don’t see humans as prey. After a very early wake up call on our first morning, it was time to set off for the Samburu National Park. Although temperatures soar into the nineties during the day, early morning in Africa is surprisingly cold, so Joseph had prepared blankets and hot water bottles for us in the jeep. This area of AUGUST 2021

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Kenya is renowned for its large herds of elephants, so we went straight to the Ewaso River to see if we could catch a glimpse of any. Breakfast was enjoyed sitting by the river under the shade of a doum palm tree watching hundreds of elephants stream down to the water to drink and bathe together. Animals are more active in the morning and late afternoon as they tend to retire to the shade during the hottest part of the day, so safari game drives usually take place early in the morning and then again later in the afternoon when it starts to cool down. The afternoon game drive always ends with a “safari sundowner” — watching the sun set over the horizon with a drink in hand. One afternoon between game drives we spent a few hours at the local Samburu manyatta (village). There was separate dancing for men and women while they sang us welcome songs — the women formed a circle and danced while the men performed the iconic tribal jumping dance where two dancers compete to see who could leap higher as the others chant. It was fascinating to hear about daily life in the village; there is no running water, so the villagers walk to the river to bathe and wash their clothes. One child excitedly explained to us that before they jump in the coffee-colored river to bathe, they throw stones in to make sure there are no crocodiles lurking underneath. The villagers’ diet consists mainly of blood and milk drawn from living cows; they don’t kill the cows, as they are very valuable to them. As a nomadic tribe, they eat almost no fruit or vegetables, but despite this, studies show them to be very healthy. The manager at the lodge was an expert on scorpions and had even discovered a new species at Saruni. After dinner one evening he offered the opportunity for an impromptu night scorpion safari. Scientists aren’t sure why, but scorpions glow under ultraviolet light. We set off with ultraviolet torches to shine on the ground and on tree trunks to see how many scorpions we could find. After finding several next to the path back to our villa we swore off wearing flip flops for the rest of the trip! Our few days in Samburu went by quickly and it was time to go back to the landing strip to take our next flight to the Maasai Mara. Once we arrived, we drove to our tented camp on the highway, Ol Seki Hemingways Mara. It quickly became evident why the Maasai Mara is one of the most celebrated safari destinations in the world. Quite often on safari you scan the horizon searching for wildlife, but here, everywhere you turned the flat endless plains were absolutely teeming with animals. The abundance of wildlife was like a scene straight out of a documentary — giraffes gracefully crossing in front of our jeep, cheetahs on the lookout for their next meal and herds of zebra grazing all around us. Our new camp consisted of a small number of spacious tents set up high on a rocky ridge in the Maasai-owned Naboisho Conservancy adjacent to the Maasai Mara National Park. Although staying in a conservancy is more expensive, the

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experience, like the one at Saruni, is much more exclusive and provides sustainable income to the Maasai while contributing to wildlife conservation. Only guests from the lodges inside the conservancy have access, although the animals are free to roam everywhere — there are no physical fences. Sightings are closely restricted to stop the animals from being hounded. In the National Park it is not unusual to see hundreds of jeeps at one sighting, which is very stressful for the wildlife. Our guide at Ol Seki was Mike, a Maasai moran (warrior). Maasai warriors grow up protecting their families and flocks from wild animals. In the past, as a rite of passage, they had to kill a lion to prove their bravery, but this practice is dying out and the Maasai are now at the forefront of tourism and conservation. As they have an unrivaled knowledge of the wildlife, we were in safe hands on a walking safari led by Mike, armed with a traditional Maasai spear and knife. When venturing out on a walking safari, the first rule you are told is not to run. Even if your sprinting skills rival those of Usain Bolt, a lion can run at 50 miles per hour, which is definitely much faster than any human. As soon as you turn your back and run, you trigger the animal’s predator instinct, so even if they weren’t previously interested in you, the chase will now be on. As the old safari joke goes, “you don’t have to be able to outrun a lion, just the slowest member of the group.” Luckily, we didn’t have any close encounters with any dangerous predators and Mike’s spear wasn’t required! One day we opted for a full day trip to the Maasai Mara National Park. While we were there we saw the famous

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TRAVEL

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cheetah brothers known as the “Five Musketeers.” There have been several documentaries made about this coalition of five cheetah brothers, as it was previously unheard of for so many cheetahs to hunt together (they are usually solitary or hunt in pairs). These five brothers have banded together to form an extraordinarily successful partnership. While we were watching them, our guide noticed a warthog family in the distance and told us that the cheetahs had found their lunch. Before I had a chance to start recording a video, the cheetahs had darted off and caught three of the five warthog babies. Although it was exciting to see our first kill, it was sad to see the desperation of the warthog parents powerless to defend their young. We stopped for lunch on the banks of the Mara River. During the Great Migration, this river is the scene of epic crossings where thousands of zebras and wildebeest attempt to cross the river without falling prey to the crocodiles lying in wait. We were not there at the right time of year to see any crossings, but we did see a river heaving with hippos and crocodiles. It’s quite an assault on the senses — the awful smell of hippos and the sound of their almost constant grunting. It was so entertaining to watch the baby hippos splashing about in the shallows. On safari you spend up to twelve hours a day with your guide, so you hear a lot about their personal life and family. When we visited the Maasai village we had no idea that it was Mike’s home village (he wanted to surprise us) and it was lovely when his daughters, who we had already heard so much about, ran out to greet us. Unfortunately we didn’t meet his 6-year-old son, who was out herding the goats when we visited. The village is surrounded by a fence of thick acacia bushes with sharp thorns to ward off wild animals. In case any animals manage to push their way in, warriors sleep out in the open by a fire each night to keep guard. The women make their own huts out of mud, sticks and cow dung. As the huts are quite small, I had to duck down to enter. It took a while for my eyes to adjust to the darkness as the huts have no lighting or windows (this helps keep them cool). There is a fireplace in the middle so it is smoky — there is some suggestion that this is done to ward off mosquitos (malaria is prevalent in this region and most of the locals catch it at least once a year). Although the villages do not have electricity or running water, there are solar-powered generators to ensure that the ubiquitous mobile phones can be charged. Throughout our stay on safari we became very aware that we were guests in the animals’ domain. The safety briefings and alarms in the rooms reinforce the fact that we are in the presence of some potentially incredibly dangerous predators. One evening we came far too close to the wildlife for comfort. As we were settling into bed we found something absolutely terrifying in our tent — not a lion or one of Africa’s deadliest snakes, rather an enormous spider on the bed. As my mother and I both suffer from arachnophobia, we made the decision

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to call for help. We tried attracting the attention of the night watchmen with a torch, to no avail. We decided to press the emergency alarm button in the tent. Sirens immediately went off and three armed Maasai warriors, clubs in hand, burst into our tent looking around for the lion that surely must have precipitated the alarm. When we pointed out the cause of our distress they were completely incredulous at the behaviour of these spoiled Western tourists. As one unwrapped his shuka (shawl) to capture the spider, the head guard shook his head in disbelief and said, “You summoned three warriors for one spider!” To add to our humiliation, it turned out that it wasn’t even a poisonous spider. I suppose for tribesmen who have fought lions it was just a cultural leap too far for them to understand how we could be scared of a harmless spider! WHILE KOSHER SAFARIS do exist, I opted to take food with me to not restrict my choice of lodge. All safari lodges are fullboard, in the middle of the African savannah, with the nearest shop often several hours away. I took some frozen meals for the lodge to heat up for me (although it’s a long flight to Africa from London, the plane hold is very cold so everything stayed frozen). At mealtimes, the lodge provided whole fruit and vegetables that I was able to cut with my own knife. The majority of meals on safari are communal, which is a chance to mingle and compare sightings of the day. It also provided an opportunity for the other guests to learn a lot about kashrut — everyone is always very curious as to why I was forgoing the four-course meal in favor of some tomatoes and cucumbers! The lodges were so helpful and accommodating — one of them even sourced me some Israeli wine from Nairobi. Rule number one about taking food on safari is to lock it away in the chest in your accommodation to keep it safe from monkeys. When we traveled to Tanzania, I learned this the hard way when at the beginning of my trip baboons broke into the tent and managed to steal most of my food, even though it was stored high up in tightly sealed bags. They managed to rip open the bags, leaving me with just a few noodle soups for the rest of my stay. I can testify that the monkey-enforced diet of fruit and vegetables is very effective! “Safari” is a Swahili word meaning journey and I can confirm that a Kenyan safari with its incredible wildlife and humbling encounters with the Maasai was a journey of a lifetime (and definitely justified the early morning alarm calls!).

Noa Levy is a mortgage broker with a passion for world travel, having visited over 30 countries. Noa lives in London with her husband, three sons and rabbit. Follow Noa’s adventures on Instagram @sunseasand_andasheitel.

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KIDS IN THE KITCHEN

nina

S C H O T

T E N S T E I N

At only 13 years old, Nina Schottenstein is a baker and entrepreneur at heart.

She started baking chocolate babka when she was a mere three years old (with the help of her mother, of course!) and has launched a business called Sweet Nina’s based out of her home in Bal Harbour, Florida, where she makes anything from French macarons to custom cakes and cupcakes.

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Q: How did you take your passion for baking and turn it into a business? A: When I was starting out, I sold to a few people here and there. After a while, with more and more requests, my part-time hobby turned into a business. I used Instagram to reach out to people and created online order forms that I posted to Instagram. I hustled! Before long, I was selling out every time. My business is constantly evolving and changing for the better! Q: What is your best seller? A: For sure my lemon meringue cupcakes. Everyone loves them — the subtle sweetness from the cupcake and meringue pairs perfectly with the tart lemon curd. Q: How do you balance school, a social life and a small business? A: Balancing everything was hard in the beginning, but eventually I was able to work up a schedule that made it more manageable. For example, I limit the number of orders I take and try not to overwhelm myself, so that I could maintain a healthy balance. Q: What are some of your essential baking tips? A: Always read a recipe super carefully — triple check if you need to! If it doesn’t turn out right the first time, that’s okay. I failed at least times while perfecting my process for French macarons. Another tip I live by is to always have a backup plan in case something doesn’t go as planned. I speak from experience! Q: Can you elaborate on some of these experiences you’ve learned from? A: I’m a self-taught baker. Baking is a science, so there is bound to be a disaster here and there. When I was just 10 years old, I received an order for three dozen French macarons for a party. I was already confident in macarons as I had made them dozens of times before. However, for this order, I rushed to make them as quickly as I possibly could. After all that hard work, they all cracked completely! It was definitely a difficult learning process for me, especially being so young, but I’ve learned from every mistake I made along the way.

Nina Schottenstein is a 13-year-old self-taught baker who sells gourmet baked goods out of her home in Bal Harbour, Florida. Find her on Instagram @sweetninas_.

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Lemon Meringue Cake Serves: 8-10

We created a cake inspired by Nina’s bestselling lemon meringue cupcakes. The cake, while involved, is worth every step. To set yourself up for success, take Nina’s words to heart — read the recipe a few times before starting and prepare all of the ingredients in advance. N OT E : Adapt the recipe to make cupcakes, just reduce baking time by 10-15 minutes, depending on your oven, until a toothpick inserted comes out clean.

FO R T H E CA K E :

1¼ 1 1½ ½ ½ ¼ 1 2 1

cups all-purpose flour cup sugar teaspoons baking powder teaspoon kosher salt cup soy milk cup vegetable oil teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoons lemon zest large egg

FO R T H E C U R D:

6 ½ 6 1 ¼

large egg yolks (reserve 4 whites for meringue) cup sugar tablespoons fresh lemon juice tablespoon grated lemon zest cup (4 tablespoons) non-dairy butter substitute

FO R T H E M E R I N G U E F ROST I N G :

1 ½ 1 4

cup sugar teaspoon cream of tartar teaspoon pure vanilla extract large egg whites, at room temperature

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan and line with a 9-inch circle of parchment paper. Grease again. 2. For the cake, add flour, sugar, baking powder and salt to the bowl of a stand mixer and mix on low until combined. Set aside. 3. Mix soy milk, vegetable oil, vanilla extract, lemon zest and egg in a separate bowl. 4. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, then beat until well combined. 5. Slowly add ½ cup water to the batter and mix on low speed until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed to make sure everything is well combined. 6. Fill cake pan with batter and bake for 30-35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Set on a cooling rack to cool for 30 minutes, then remove from the pan. 7. For the lemon curd, add egg yolks, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and nondairy butter to a medium saucepan. Whisk constantly until mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. If using a candy ther-

mometer, it should reach 160°F. 8. Strain curd through a fine mesh strainer over a bowl, then place a layer of plastic wrap directly on top of the curd to prevent a film from forming. Alternatively, place in an airtight container with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate until completely cool and firm, about 3½ hours. 9. For the meringue frosting, add sugar, cream of tartar, vanilla extract and egg whites to the bowl of a stand mixer and place over a saucepan of simmering water. Whisk constantly, until sugar is dissolved and egg whites are warm (160°F on a candy thermometer), about 5 minutes. 10. Remove from heat and transfer to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat on low, gradually increasing to high, for 5-7 minutes, until stiff, glossy peaks form. 11. Slice cake in half and spread curd on top of one half. Top with the other cake half, then pipe or dollop the meringue frosting on top. Use a blowtorch to crisp meringue or place under the broiler, keeping a close eye on it so it doesn’t burn. If making in advance, refrigerate cake until ready to serve. AUGUST 2021

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A M S L I G H T LY embarrassed that it has taken me so long to write about the legendary Covenant Winery in California. With great pride, I finally had the THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK opportunity to have Jeff and Jodie Morgan address B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H all my burning questions about the winery, their history and what the future holds. Recently, I was fortunate to taste some aged Covenant Napa Cabernets from the 2013 and 2011 vintages. Both were so incredibly structured and elegantly restrained that I decided I needed to let go of my obsession with European old world wines and revisit my roots from the other side of the pond. I call myself a wine imposter because, although the primary language spoken in our home is French and I can only claim to be a second-generation American on my mother’s side, ever since discovering how much I enjoyed the antiquated old world taste of an aged European wine, I cannot seem to let it go. However, my recent encounter with Covenant’s two vintages made me realize that I should give them a chance and continue to open some adequately aged "new world” wines. I put new world in quotes because the 2011 Covenant offers something unique; it combines new world notes (robust, fruit flavors) in early tastings but, once aged, brings forth old world stylistic flavors and finesse.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

EFF AND JODIE MORGAN grew up in New York and were both raised as secular Jews with no Jewish education or synagogue affiliation. Although their families knew each other and gathered for dinner parties on occasion, Jeff and Jodie officially met at Jodie’s father’s 60th birthday party. Like all good stories, it was love at first sight. Fast forward to 2005, after writing ten cookbooks together, Jodie joined Jeff in the wine business at Covenant. Jeff was originally trained as a musician in France where he lived from 1973-1978. Aside from music education, Jeff learned to appreciate real food and wine, as well as how to eat and drink properly. After a major saxophonist performance while leading Monaco’s Prince Rainier III jazz orchestra at the Monte Carlo Grand Casino, Jeff had an awakening about his interest in the wine he drank after the show rather than what he had played at the show. After his return to America, Jeff had several wine-related stints, including working in a wine cellar in a Long Island, New York winery, working as the West Coast editor of the esteemed Wine Spectator magazine for over 8 years and acting as a wine director at the gourmet food store Dean & DeLuca, which is now defunct. After tasting thousands of wines in his previous two positions, Jeff developed an extremely discerning palate, which was important since he was already living with his family in Napa Valley, the mecca of wine production in the United States. It was there that Jeff founded Solo Rosa, a (non-kosher) winery dedicated to making rosé — clearly Jeff was way ahead of the rosé wine boom! In 2002, Jeff had a chance encounter in Napa with the legendary Eli Ben Zaken of Israel’s Domaine du Castel winery. At the time, Castel was not fully kosher yet and made a side-by-side kosher and non-kosher 2002 vintage before going fully kosher in 2003. Jeff assumed the whole production was kosher since the wines were made in Israel. Jeff and Jodie Morgan became business partners with the late Leslie Rudd, owner of Dean & DeLuca and Rudd Vineyards in Napa Valley; together they founded Covenant. They decided that it was time for them to make an equally as magnificent kosher wine from Napa Valley. The first five vintages from Covenant were made at Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard for logistical and kosher supervising reasons. By 2004, there were 25 barrels of amazing kosher Napa Valley Cabernet with no name or brand sitting around. It was not until a religious pal from New York suggested the name Covenant for the winery.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

The name fit perfectly and the label for the bottle, designed by artist Susanne Ortega, was inspired by Chagall paintings, with imagery of the luchot, shofar and the 12 tribes represented by 12 candles. The original piece of art that graces the label of the Napa Lot 70 Lavan Chardonnay is displayed in the winery. The Cabernet Sauvignon is from Napa, while about 75% of Covenant's grapes are grown in other wine regions, including Sonoma County, Lake County, Lodi and the Central Coast. In addition, Covenant started producing a brandy called Double-Edged Sword about four years ago. Jeff hopes to expand that program and begin producing other distilled spirits in the near future. He also expects to double the production in the next five years with some estate vines being planted in Berkeley. After making the wines in Napa Valley for five years, the Morgans decided it was time to move to a more religious community. In 2014, they moved to Berkeley and acquired a new 7,000-square-foot facility for the winery. Their new home was only a few short minutes walk from a shul. The Morgan family’s spiritual journey continues, as does the Covenant journey.

In 2011, Jeff traveled to Israel for the first time in his life and visited numerous wineries. That trip was a homecoming for Jeff and he could not shake the feeling of needing to make wine in Israel. In 2013, Covenant Israel was launched with three barrels of Syrah. Today, over 100 barrels are made per year, sourcing grapes from the Galilee and the Golan Heights. Since that first visit, Jodie and Jeff knew their calling was to be in Israel. Finally, after many delays due to COVID-19 and months of planning, they successfully made aliyah this past April. As new immigrants, they can also travel between the wineries when needed. While their parents did not grow up in a wine-oriented home, Jeff and Jodie’s daughters, Zoë and Skye, have had quite a different upbringing, completely immersed in wine culture. Zoë left Napa Valley seven years ago to live in Israel and became a wine professional. She works closely with winemaker Ari Erle, managing Covenant Israel's marketing, sales and hospitality program. Skye is a wine and food publicist and works for a very prestigious firm called the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group. She has recently relocated back to the West Coast after a seven-year stint in New York City. Jeff explained to me that his religious re-birth was brought on by kosher wine. It brought him and his family back to their Jewish roots. In 1992, Wine

Spectator Magazine assigned him to write about kosher wine. At the time, he had no information or experience with kosher, let alone kosher wine. He decided to contact Herzog’s Royal Wine Corp., which was then located in Brooklyn, New York and he was put in touch with the company’s EVPs, Nathan Herzog and Jay Buchsbaum. These two men held the key for the spiritual door that led Jeff and his family to where they are today. After maintaining a relationship with the Herzog family and meeting other kosher winemakers, Jeff's interest in Judaism continued to blossom. He felt very strange making kosher wine without knowing much about his own religion. He recently taught himself Hebrew and, at age 60, finally paid his first shul membership fee. He had his very own Bar Mitzvah ceremony only fifty years late and read a portion from the Torah. It was only appropriate that Jeff ’s portion was Parshat Noach, the Torah’s first mention of vineyards and winemaking, as well as the rainbow being the very first covenant that God made with humankind. Covenant’s mission is to share Jewish culture and history through the holiness of the average. Wine is a reflection of who we are and where we come from. I couldn't agree more and I’ll drink to that! L’chaim!

Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com.

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COOKBOOK

Now for Something Sweet By: Monday Morning Cooking Club Published by: Harper Collins Photography by: Alan Benson Styling by: David Morgan Design by: Evi-O.Studio Price: $29.99

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COOKBOOK

B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

behind the Monday Morning Cooking Club (MMCC) comes their fourth — and sweetest — book, Now for Something Sweet, which highlights all things pastry. MMCC was established in 2006 by Lisa Goldberg, Merelyn Frank Chalmers, Natanya Eskin and Jacqui Israel — four Jewish women with a penchant for sisterhood and cooking good food. Over the years, the women have collected recipes and stories from cooks throughout Australia’s Jewish communities and beyond. Along with Now for Something Sweet, which was released in November 2020, their former books Monday Morning Cooking Club (2011), The Feast Goes On (2014) and It’s Always About the Food (2017) all have the same thing in common — weaving heartwarming, nostalgic stories into the culturally-diverse recipes, which is a combined passion for Lisa, Merelyn, Natanya and Jacqui and has become a trademark of the MMCC books. Reading and learning about the origins of both the recipes and the stories of the cooks behind them is what makes the MMCC collection truly unique. What also sets this cookbook apart is the vast range of Jewish recipes from all over the world. ROM THE LADIES

Now for Something Sweet is split into the following chapters, each one beginning with a “People + Stories'' section, which delves into the authors and stories behind the featured recipes — The Biscuit Tin (i.e. Persian Shortbread; Viennese Ishla Biscuits; Alfajores); The Everyday Cake (i.e. Spiced Honey Cake; Passover Pear Cake); The Chocolate Cake (i.e. Flourless Chocolate Brownies; Chocolate Coconut Milk Cake); The Occasion Cake (i.e. Russian Sour Cream Smetna Torte; Dobos Torte [Hungarian Layered Sponge]); The Chiffon Cake (i.e. Glazed Honey Chiffon; Poppy Seed Chiffon); Squares and Bars (i.e. Dutch Ginger Squares; Linzer Torte); Pastries and Tarts (i.e Hamantashen; Apricot Rugelach; Fishuelas); Yeasted Dough (i.e. Sufganiyot; Chocolate Tahini Babke); Sweet Cheese (i.e. Traditional Cheese Blintzes with MMCC’s Blueberry Compote; South African Cheesecake; Knafeh); Dessert Table (i.e. Hungarian Fruit Soup; Malva Pudding); An Extra Something (i.e. Almond Buttercrunch; Moroccan Almond Cigars); and A Drink and a Nut (i.e. Knäckebröd; Frojalda [Turkish Cheese Bread]; Jerusalem Kugel). While all of the recipes are written in Australian metric measurements, there are American equivalents conveniently listed for each ingredient. The book is rounded out with kitchen notes and some step-by-step diagrams, as well as dairyfree, gluten-free and Passover-friendly lists of recipes. Now for Something Sweet is a wonderful addition to any baker’s cookbook collection, from beginners to those who enjoy experimenting with more complicated pastry. It’s also perfect for those who love to read and learn. With the stories and backgrounds, there is so much more than the over 100 thoughtfully curated recipes. Now for Something Sweet represents the best of the Jewish diaspora, because nothing waxes nostalgic more than a piece of Bubbe’s cake with a hot cup of tea.

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COOKBOOK

Carrot Loaf Cake Serves about 10

Nachas is the inexplicable joy one gets from something, often one’s children. Well, that’s how we felt when, in 2016, the Sydney Morning Herald judged Angelique Lazarus’s carrot cake, featured in our first book, the best in Australia. We’ve modified the best carrot cake ever to become the best carrot loaf cake ever, something to slowly slice away, day by day, till every crumb is gone. Angelique Lazarus and MMCC D RY I N G R E D I E N TS

190g (1¼ cups/6¾ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon bicarb soda (baking soda) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon allspice 1 teaspoon salt W E T I N G R E D I E N TS

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/ Gas 4). Grease a large (25 x 13 cm/10 x 5 inch) loaf (bar) tin. 2. Sift the dry ingredients together into a bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the wet ingredients together until frothy. Mix together the dry, wet and fruit ingredients. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 35 minutes. 3. While the cake is baking, mix the glaze ingredients together in a small saucepan over medium heat until just combined. 4. Remove the cake from the oven and pour the glaze over the top while it is still hot. Return to the oven for a further 15 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. 5. To make the icing, using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese, sour cream, icing sugar and vanilla. When the cake is completely cool, turn it out of the tin and set it on a serving plate, glazed side up. Spread the icing generously over the cake.

1 70g (¾ cup/6 oz) caster (superfine) sugar 180ml (¾ cup/6 oz) oil 2 eggs F RU I T

250g (1½ cups/9 oz) coarsely grated carrot 70g (¼ cup/2½ oz) drained canned crushed pineapple 100g (¾ cup/3½ oz) chopped pecans GLAZE

1 tablespoon oil 55g (¼ cup, firmly packed/2 oz) brown sugar 1 tablespoon milk 20g (¾ oz) chopped pecans CREAM CHEESE ICING

250g (9 oz) cream cheese, at room temperature, chopped 125g (½ cup/4½ oz) sour cream 100g (⅔ cup/3½ oz) icing (confectioners’) sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

E XC E R P T E D F RO M N OW FO R SO M E T H I N G SW E E T BY T H E M O N DAY M O R N I N G C O O K I N G C LU B , P U B L I S H E D BY H A R P E R C O L L I N S P U B L I S H E RS.

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TREND

T’S NO SECRET that the world of e-commerce exploded in 2020. With consumers all over the world stuck at home in one lockdown after another, the ease and convenience of one-click shopping with contactless home delivery drove a $50 billion surge in online sales from the first quarter of the year to the second, representing a 44% increase from the same quarter of 2019. Aside from the frenzy to purchase all kinds of non-essentials to keep busy while at home, consumers turned to online ordering for even the most basic of essentials, from groceries to toilet paper (if you could get your hands on some!). With lockdowns, social distancing and personal health precautions in place, most, if not all, brick-and-mortar stores have taken their businesses online to survive the pandemic and countless new direct-to-consumer online shops have sprung up to fill this demand.

DS BY :C

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KOSHER KART , a kosher grocery delivery service, is just one of the many premium table linens primarily to hotels, to new online businesses that was established this past year. Founder create a new direct-to-consumer brand. “We’ve and CEO (and former corporate lawyer) Rebecca Grafstein had been been in this industry for years,” says brand working on developing the concept since 2019 and was just getting manager Yadin Koschitzky, “so we had everything ready to launch when the pandemic hit. With much of the business in place already. Since we manufacture the already ready to go, she realized that although she could not products ourselves, we can oversee every step launch as a shop-and-deliver service as she had intended, she of the process, from the dyeing and weaving to had the infrastructure in place to set up an online store with the cutting and sewing.” A convenient and easyits own inventory to help get kosher groceries to the newly to-use website tool allows customers to input quarantined residents of New Rochelle, NY. their table shape and dimensions, as well as the “Buying groceries online is all about convenience,” desired finished look, then provides the perfect says Grafstein. “You can easily see what’s available, size recommendation for a custom, cut-tocompare prices, pay for your items, schedule a order tablecloth. delivery and communicate with customer service “Working directly with our customers in real time, all on the phone.” The idea was allows us to give them exactly what they sparked one day when Grafstein spent hours want,” adds Koschitzky. Aside from custom trekking around the city to get the lamb orders, it means that the company receives chops she had planned to make for dinner direct feedback from their customers on that night. “We are already used to that product improvement and potential new level of convenience when it comes to offerings, like the recently added table obtaining so many of the other basics runners and soon-to-come placemats. we need, so it was about time that The direct-to-consumer model doesn’t just we brought that experience to mean better pricing (although that is often the world of kosher groceries the case) and the ability to receive direct as well,” she added. It was a bet customer feedback; it also allows that paid off. “We’re growing like crazy,” the brand to communicate directly with says Grafstein, who is constantly adding new their customers, creating the message specialty products to her store, including hard and aesthetic that suits their product. For to-find products imported from Israel. DEKŌ COCKTAILS , one of the first kosher ready-to-drink For some businesses, like LOOM & TABLE , bottled cocktail brands, this model was part of the vision since this new reality represented an opportunity the creation of the brand several years ago. to leverage the manufacturing capabilities “I would often host cocktail parties in my home, mixing great of their wholesale business, which sold drinks for my friends,” says co-founder Dan Rabinowitz. “The

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“BUYING GROCERIES ONLINE IS ALL ABOUT quality of a drink you could get from a bartender was just not available for purchase and I wanted to create that same premium experience for people in the comfort of their homes.” Working together with a small, bespoke distillery in Long Island, Dekō uses mostly locally-sourced ingredients to create high-end cocktails such as the Bee’s Knees, which features gin, fresh lemons, pure wildflower honey, foraged juniper berries and lavender, packaged in a beautifully designed glass bottle. Unlike most brands in the industry, Dekō remains a ship-to-home experience because, as their mission statement reads, “We believe our cocktails are the perfect pairing for your dinner parties, movie nights, catch-up phone calls and all the other beautiful moments you enjoy in those small, intimate groups we’ve learned to love this past year.” While some of the businesses catering to the surge in e-commerce have cropped up in the past year, others have been around long before the pandemic and have spent years exploring the unique aspects of what an online business can offer its customers. With eight years of online sales and over 1,000 different varieties of wine available, KOSHERWINE .COM is the largest single retailer of kosher wine in the world. “Our selection is by far the biggest advantage that being an online retailer provides,” says Director of Marketing Eric Golman. “Customers who live in remote towns

would otherwise have access to only a handful of kosher wine options. By shopping online they can choose from as many, if not more, varieties as you’d find in a kosher wine store in the heart of Brooklyn.” Aside from offering an extensive collection of wines, including exclusive kosher runs from mainstream wineries, one of the fundamental aspects of KosherWine.com’s direct-to-consumer model is the ability to provide their customers with an education on wine. “Just a little bit of education can really help you enjoy the wine you drink so much more,” explains Golman. “There are so many different varietals and regions in the world. We believe that if we teach the consumers what’s out there, the demand for more interesting wines will grow, which will drive the whole industry forward.” Like many online retailers, KosherWine.com has the option to chat with a customer service representative — trained wine consultants who get to know their customers’ palates, making personalized recommendations and more importantly, helping customers learn their own palates so they can feel more confident in their selections. Additionally, the site has launched the Kosher Wine Academy, a six-week educational course taught by wine consultants to provide a fundamental understanding of how wines are made, how to make informed choices about the wine you buy, what will pair well with your menu and how to taste and evaluate wine on your own.

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While these online brands are seeing huge success in today’s e-commerce world, selling online directly to consumers is not without its own challenges. “It's easier for a brick-andmortar store to get foot traffic; we have to work a lot harder to get the word out that we exist and that we are doing such a great job,” says Rebecca Grafstein of Kosher Kart. “Many people like to touch the fabric in a physical store before they purchase a new tablecloth,” adds Yadin Koschitzky of Loom & Table. “Those limitations present some difficulties, but we find ways to address those challenges, like adding a low-cost option to receive swatch samples of our fabrics before you make your selection.” AS THE WORLD begins to move toward a new, post-pandemic existence, many expect that the conveniences we’ve grown accustomed to will be hard to part with. Aside from the ultimate comfort of ordering all of your needs without ever having to change out of your pajamas, the world of online shopping expanding to include every facet of our lives has offered some incredible benefits that are here to stay. AUGUST 2021

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LOOM & TABLE Loom & Table linens (tablecloths, napkins and runners) are available online at loomandtable.com. To contact customer service, email hello@loomandtable. com, text (332) 244-8667 or visit them on Instagram @loomandtable Sign up for the newsletter on their website to activate 10% off your first order.

KOSHERKART

KOSHERWINE.COM

Visit kosherkart.com for a large variety of groceries, produce, fresh meat, poultry and fish. Though expanding soon, shipping is currently available within some parts of New York State only. All orders require a $50 minimum and ship free.

Visit kosherwine.com for the largest online variety of kosher wine and kosher wine education, like the Kosher Wine Academy’s 6-week online interactive course. Shipping available nationwide.

To stay informed of weekly specials, subscribe to the newsletter online or visit Facebook or Instagram @kosherkart.

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To contact customer service, call or text (845) 203-0150, chat online with a wine expert or visit them on Facebook or Instagram @kosherwinesite.

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DEKŌ COCKTAILS Dekō Cocktails, available in three flavors (Bee’s Knees | Rosemary Vodka Gimlet | Gold Rush), can be found online at dekococktails.com. Each 375ml bottle is $25 and certified kosher under Star K. Shipping currently within New York State only. To contact customer service, visit Facebook or Instagram @dekococktails.

You already know us, but we’ll introduce ourselves anyway.

For over 13 years, we’ve provided you with unmatched customer service, a premium shopping experience, and unparalleled knowledge and expertise of every baby gear product we sell. We are proud to introduce PishPosh Points, our loyalty program - where you can earn points toward discounts on future purchases. We now also offer a financing option through Affirm. (And like our first customers who are now teens, we thought it was time to update our look.)

Meet the new PishPosh Baby.

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

877-pish-posh | www.pishposhbaby.com 1915 swarthmore ave, lakewood, nj | hours: s: 10-5 | m-th: 9-5 | f: 9-1

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Savory Fig Jam Chicken Serves: 8

By: Vanessa Haberman

I often ask the butcher to french the chicken legs, which is a step that removes the skin and exposes the bone of the chicken leg. It’s a simple extra step that completely elevates the presentation of the chicken. N OT E : This recipe calls for whole chicken bottoms (legs + thighs), but feel free to use parts instead.

8 1 1 1 2 1 ½ ¼

skin-on whole chicken bottoms, frenched tablespoon garlic powder tablespoon smoked paprika teaspoon kosher salt tablespoons olive oil Onion Fig Jam (recipe follows) (5.2-ounce) bag Gefen roasted chestnuts, chopped cup chopped fresh parsley cup toasted pistachios, chopped

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange chicken bottoms in a roasting dish. 2. Mix garlic powder, paprika, salt and olive oil and rub all over chicken, working the mixture under the skin as well. Pour ⅓ cup water around the chicken, then cover tightly with foil and cook for 30 minutes. 3. Brush chicken generously with fig jam and sprinkle in chopped chestnuts. Cook, uncovered, for an additional 20-30 minutes, until chicken is cooked through. 4. Immediately baste the chicken with its juices, then brush on some more fig jam. To serve, top with parsley and pistachios.

Onion Fig Jam Yield: 1¾ cups

Using a high-quality prepared fig jam, such as Tuscanini, is a shortcut for this delicious jam that lends a delicious sweet and savory flavor to roasted chicken. I prefer to blend it for a smooth consistency, but it can be served chunky as well. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add 2 chopped Vidalia (or 3 yellow) onions and sauté for about 5 minutes, until translucent and lightly golden. Add 3 minced garlic cloves and sauté for another 1-2 minutes, until soft and fragrant. Add ½ cup fig jam, 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 4 sprigs fresh thyme, 2 tablespoons water, 1 teaspoon honey and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Simmer until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Let cool, then discard herbs. Blend, if desired.

Vanessa Haberman is a preschool teacher by trade with a passion for beautiful and fresh flavors. She shares easy cooking, menu planning and her love for all things tahini on Instagram @platesandpetals.

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CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 22 22 28 29 29 34 48 78 80 83 84 84 127

Honey Vinaigrette M Q Savory Pistachio Crumble M Q Fire Roasted Zabaganoush M Q Sweet Potato Hummus FF M Q Fire Roasted Matbucha FF M Q Honey Challah FF Pomegranate Glazed Onions Truffle Mushroom Sauce Herbed Matzah Balls FF M Mint Gremolata Apple, Fig and Pomegranate Mostarda Sriracha Honey M Q Onion Fig Jam

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 24 25 28 29 29 50 50 62 62 62 64 67 78 80 83 83

Honey Roasted Vegetables Fruity Green Salad Grilled Zucchini FF M Q Grilled Sweet Potatoes FF M Q Grilled Tomatoes, Onion and Peppers FF M Q Summer Steak Salad FF M Q Basic Kale Salad M Q Leek Edgeh FF M Q Braised Swiss Chard With Chickpeas Candied Spaghetti Squash Saucy Green Beans FF Grandma Lillie’s Potatoes FF M Farro Risotto Roasted Heirloom Tomato and Fennel Broth Sunchoke Cream Braised Leeks

FISH 22 Honey Roasted Salmon FF M 84 Tuna Carpaccio Q

MEAT & CHICKEN 34 36 45 45 48 54 62 62 67 67 68 78 80 82 127

Salami and Apple Pull Apart Challah Roses FF Moroccan Beef and Date Stuffed Challah Asian-Style Chuck Stew Sous Vide Chuck Steak Israeli-Inspired Grilled Chuck Steak Koji Steak Sweet and Sour Tongue Lubyeh with Flanken FF Kibbe Cherry FF Classic Meatballs FF M Kibbeh Roll Umami Crusted Ribeye Homemade Chicken Broth FF M Sous Vide Lamb Chops M Savory Fig Jam Chicken FF

SWEET TREATS 38 87 92 94 96 111 121

Carrot Cake Babka Rhubarb Compote with Pecan Crumble M Apple Slab Pie FF M Q Apple Crumb Cake FF Apple Berry ‘Pop Tarts’ FF Lemon Meringue Cake Carrot Loaf Cake

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

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