Fleishigs Magazine Issue 030 - September_October 2021

Page 1








22

BUTCHER'S CUT

The wonders of corned beef 10

EDITOR’S LETTER

14 ESSENTIALS What you need and where to get it 19

52

TRADITION Kubbeh

ASK THE EXPERT Your pressing questions, answered

34 BREAKING BREAD Sweeten up your challah for the holiday season 40 SEASONAL Jerusalem market salads 62 PROFILE Sephardic Spice Girls 66 BACK POCKET Kasha

86 SUKKOT FEAST

An outdoor Sukkot feast

74 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Gathering at Wolf & Lamb to celebrate the launch of the new Fleishigs app 112 COOKBOOK Good Food by Sina Mizrahi 100 L’CHAIM Perfect wines for Sukkos 122 TRAVEL Mexico City 134 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Hagefen Cellars 138 FAMILY DINNERS Simple kid-friendly dinners 144 RECIPE INDEX 146 LAST BITE Hawaij Brownie Lava Cakes

102

SOMETHING SWEET Bundt cakes 101



THE SUKKOT ISSUE

EDITOR'S LETTER

This Sukkot we have you covered. a large part of Sukkot was spent walking up and down flights of stairs from our second floor kitchen to our Sukkah, which was in the front yard. As a young married couple, we had to transport the food three flights to and from our apartment and the building’s shared courtyard. The purpose? To eat in a temporary encampment that represents the Jewish experience leaving Egypt for Israel and the clouds that protected them on the arduous journey. Experiencing the holiday in such a physically symbolic way truly brings the holiday to life. This is what makes Sukkot so unique; despite the physical exercise associated with Sukkot, it’s an amazingly festive, joyous holiday that is largely focused on gathering with family and friends. In fact, if you stroll through some Jewish neighborhoods, you may see a sign in Hebrew saying, “Kol dichfin yeisei veyeichol,” which translates to mean, “Whoever is hungry, let him come and eat.” Much like the Pesach seder, which shares this sentiment, we are encouraged to invite guests to our Sukkah. There is also something magical about outdoor dining. We have all experienced its perks over the past year due to COVID-19 and the resulting expansion of outdoor restaurant dining — the fresh air and change of ambience are some of the reasons it has become so enjoyable (and sometimes even preferred)! This year, Sukkot falls out in the early fall; while some nights can get rainy or chilly on the East Coast, it’s the perfect temperature for a week of outdoor dining. Long before fall, we had our own outdoor feast with our old friends, Naftali and Anna Hanau (from Grow & Behold) and Chef Moshe Wendel. GROWING UP,

We put together a potluck feast that I will never forget and took so much inspiration from all the food we feasted on. I realized how perfect it was for Sukkot. Although our gettogether was impromptu, something we planned quickly without a lot of thought, it came together seamlessly. We spoke about how much has changed and evolved since we started out in the industry back in 2010 and came to realize how much has happened in our own “little” Fleishigs bubble over the last few months — photo shoots, dinners, a new podcast (keep posted!), a new newsletter and finally, our new app (available now to subscribers in the App Store or Google Play). We are really starting the year off with a bang and this issue reflects just that. We pulled plenty of inspiration from Israel and the shuk with some fresh market salads and a variety of warm and comforting kubbeh soups. There are also some easy, family-friendly dinners to carry you through those harder “in-between-days” when no one wants to cook again! And for the Sukkot feasts, we bring you new challah concepts, a multitude of corned beef recipes, new takes on kasha and Bundt cakes for days. Speaking of Bundt cakes, we picked Miriam Pascal Cohen’s brain and compiled a loaded Q&A centered around this cake that is ideal for hosting. We made almost a dozen cakes following her guidelines and all came out perfectly. We hope you have the same success! I’d love for you to use the recipes in these pages to celebrate with family and friends and make wonderful memories that will bring joy to your Sukkot holiday. Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Mushka Haskelevich Devorah Kahan CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Is there anybody out there? If you don't eat your meat, you can't have any pudding! So I've been doing this for a while and I'm just wondering if anyone ever reads this part. If you happen to be one of the chosen few, feel free to hit me up with some music suggestions @naftolimann on the insta. This issue was designed to the understated stylings of Conway Twitty, Blue Öyster Cult, The Bruce Dickinson, Elvis Costello, Lou Costello and Avromi Flam-Bshetzef. Design inspiration: Me and my little brain.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine





ESSENTIALS

NEW YORK SHUK HAWAIJ Hawaij, which literally means blend in Arabic, is popular in Middle Eastern cuisine. We use the sweet version in the Breaking Bread feature on page 34 and the Hawaij Brownie Lava Cakes on page 146. The savory version stands out in the IsraeliInspired Butternut Squash Soup on page 57. Both can be purchased from nyshuk.com/ shop. Certified kosher by OU.

BAKERS CHOICE PRALINE PASTE Praline paste, made with just roasted hazelnuts and sugar, is an indulgent product that delivers unparalleled and authentic flavor. Use it in desserts such as the Vanilla Praline Bundt Cake on page 107. Certified kosher by NSK and Star K.

DEEBEST BREADSTICKS These breadsticks are a pantry essential that dress up meat boards or appetizers. Certified kosher by Hisachdus and OU.

SADAF SEMOLINA Derived from durum wheat and slightly coarser than traditional flour, semolina is the key ingredient for making Basic Kubbeh (page 53), a unique Iraqi delicacy. Certified kosher by RCC.

TWIN MARQUIS LO MEIN NOODLES There is nothing quite like the chew and bite to authentic lo mein noodles, let alone the flavor. We highly recommend taking a trip to your local Asian market (Google H-Mart or other similar market) not only for the abundance and variety of inexpensive produce, but for the kosher products you may be surprised to find, such as this line of fresh noodles. We used the lo mein noodles for the Kasha Lo Mein on page 71. Certified kosher by OU.

14

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

SHILOH FARMS PETITE BLACK LENTILS Unlike most other lentil varieties, petite black lentils retain the best texture once cooked. They are easy to cook and have many health benefits. We used this variety for the Crunchy Black Lentil Salad on page 44. Certified kosher by Chof-K.

www.fleishigs.com


ESSENTIALS

H A N A U ' S M U S T H AV E S WE COMPILED A LIST OF KITCHEN EXTRAS INSPIRED BY THE DINNER WE HAD AT THE HANAU HOME.

MELLOW SOUS VIDE Once reserved for restaurants, sous vide cooking, which is praised for its precision and convenience, is now easily attainable for the home cook. The benefit of the Mellow (aside from being able to control it with an app) is that it’s a full setup and doesn’t require a pot or accessories. If you cook sous vide avidly, like the Hanaus do, it’s a worthy investment.

KING ICE CUBE TRAYS WITH LIDS Large ice cubes are ideal for a glass of whiskey and work well for cocktails too, such as the Cider & Amaro on page 94. This silicone set of two comes with lids, so they stack easily in the freezer.

williams-sonoma. com | $17.95

NORDIC ORIGINAL BUNDT PAN This Bundt pan is tried and true and the one that Miriam Pascal Cohen recommends the most. We used it many times while testing the recipes for this issue. Follow the guidelines on page 110 for a foolproof Bundt cake every time.

amazon.com | $22.99

MEVELL WALNUT CUTTING BOARD Not only is a sturdy board ideal for carving meat, the right one also doubles as a serving board. This darkstained butcher block walnut board, which is reversible, can be found in the Hanaus' kitchen and has lasted through many parties.

cookmellow.com | $399.99

ANTHROPOLOGIE PLATTER This stoneware serving dish (as seen on page 99) is available in three sizes — the perfect platter for serving in the Sukkah. Its rustic feel and neutral color allow it to be paired with almost any tablescape.

amazon.com | $129.99

anthropologie.com | starts at $38

LE CREUSET SIGNATURE 5½ QUART ROUND DUTCH OVEN Dutch oven sales have skyrocketed during the pandemic because they are the ideal vessel for sourdough baking, but a round Dutch oven has been a kitchen classic long before that trend. Use it for braising meats and making soups and stews. Unlike its solid cast iron counterparts, the durable enamel coating gives it zero maintenance, making it extremely easy to wash. A Dutch oven may be a (heavy) investment, but it will last years. Available in many colors and sizes.

bedbathandbeyond.com | $369.99

CAKE STAND WITH LID

ORGNISULMTE WHOLE PEELED BLACK GARLIC CLOVES

Look no further for a cake stand/lid set that is perfect for a hostess gift, with or without a cake — simple, sleek and affordable!

The Hanaus swear by the wonders of black garlic, which has easily become a kitchen staple. Moshe Wendel used it in his tableside Black Garlic Beef Tartare (page 96). While there are many black garlic spice mixes and powders on the market, there is nothing quite like the umami boost of flavor from the whole fermented cloves. Certified kosher by OK.

amazon.com | $12.58

ikea.com | $12.99

S I M I L A R R E S U LT S , L E S S E X P E N S I V E

STERILITE CAKE KEEPER This airtight cake keeper makes traveling with a cake (or storing it) effortless.

amazon.com | $17

BUTCHER BLOCK BAMBOO BOARD If you are not in the position to invest in an expensive board, this version, which is reversible as well, is a perfect option. Its bamboo surface is durable and easy to clean and when treated properly, it will last.

ikea.com | $19.99

LODGE 6-QUART CAST IRON ENAMEL DUTCH OVEN While Dutch ovens are available from many brands and in many shapes, sizes, colors and price points, Lodge is a well-respected brand with quality Dutch ovens at a more affordable price point. It’s a staple in our kitchen that we use for many meals, such as One Pot P’timim and Chicken (page 141) and Short Rib Mole (page 99).

target.com | $69.99 SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

15





THE FREG ZONE FOR THOSE THAT AREN'T AFRAID TO ASK

Miriam, can I freeze a Bundt cake? -Rachel S. Bundt cakes freeze really well (as do other cakes!). It’s fine to freeze a cake with a glaze, but I prefer to glaze it once the cake defrosts. The key to successfully freezing a cake in general is to make sure it’s wrapped well. For a Bundt cake, I usually wrap it in a few layers of plastic wrap or foil to ensure that it’s completely airtight. -Miriam Pascal Cohen @overtimecook

Shlomo, our Sukkah is located on the ground level, but our kitchen is upstairs. What is the easiest way to transport food to the Sukkah? -Chava M. Store essentials, like paper goods, serveware and drinks, in the Sukkah in a large weather resistant container. Plan on menus that can be transported easily in a large box (think supermarket style). Cooking in oven-totable dishes or serving in bowls with lids is another important element.

Naftali, what cut of meat can I buy as a nice Yom Tov treat? -Rachel R. A standing rib roast, cooked rare, is great hot or cold. The ribs are a special bonus treat. We love to serve it with a side of garlic aioli. -Naftali Hanau @growandbeholdfoods EDITOR’S NOTE: Check out Adina Schlass’ recipe for UmamiCrusted Ribeye in the Rosh Hashana issue or search for similar recipes in the Fleishigs app.

-Shlomo Klein @fleishigsmag

Shifra, I am hosting a lot of family over Yom Tov. What is the best way to cook meat for a crowd? -Naftoli M. When cooking for a crowd, meats that call for braising typically are your best bet. Cuts like chuck roast, minute roast and second cut brisket are nicely marbled, won’t dry out, freeze really well and can be served multiple times. They also make excellent leftovers for dinner — shred the meat and make sandwiches, tacos or meat pizzas. -Shifra Klein @shifraklein

Elisheva, I work full-time and am always trying to prepare for Yom Tov in advance. Are there any vegetable-based dishes that can be frozen? -Aviva H. Freezing vegetable-based dishes can be tricky, so frozen vegetables are a great thing to have on hand in a pinch — look for unique options, such as long-stemmed broccoli or tri-colored cauliflower; toss with extra-virgin olive oil and seasonings of choice and roast, straight from the freezer, at 425°F for 20-25 minutes. Soups are easy to make in bulk and can be frozen in airtight containers or Ziploc bags; I highly recommend a Dutch oven for soup, like the ones featured on page 15.

-Elisheva Taitz @thatswhatshemade

Have a question for a Fleishigs Foodie? DM us on Instagram @fleishigsmag.

The content of all submissions (including letters, recipes and photographs) should be original and becomes property of Fleishigs Magazine, which reserves the right to republish and edit all correspondence received. By making a submission, you guarantee that you possess all necessary rights to grant the material to Fleishigs Magazine.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

19




OUR TRADITION ABOUNDS with methods for noseto-tail cooking. Yes, steaks are easy, but what do you do with the other (tougher) parts of the steer? Braising is one answer – brisket, pot roast, etc. Pickling (curing or corning) is another and both are definitely secure in the Ashkenazi food canon. Corned beef is generally made from deckle, shoulder cap or brisket of the steer, which is a very lean and tough cut, tenderized through a process of salting, curing and seasoning. Corned beef may be sold ready to eat, raw or cooked. If the latter, it usually has already been cured

and cooked, but not long enough to be fully tender and may still require several hours of steaming. This can be done easily in a multicooker (such as an Instant Pot) or in a tightly-covered pot on the stovetop or in the oven. Corned beef that is sold raw needs to be cooked by either braising, steaming or pressure cooking for hours to tenderize. A popular finishing touch for a whole corned beef is a sweet mustard glaze – mix equal parts mustard and apricot jam, then spread over the corned beef after braising and broil for 3-4 minutes, until sauce is golden and caramelized.

A Little History Corned beef was first made popular in Ireland, where taxes on salt were lower and therefore the preserved beef made with large “korns” of salt was more affordable. Irish corned beef was eventually shipped worldwide and gained a strong following in New York City in the late 19th century, where Jewish and Irish immigrants settled in large numbers. Jewish butchers picked up the recipe to make the favorite meat of their Irish neighbors. This is why corned beef is at the epicenter of both Irish (corned beef and cabbage) and Jewish (corned beef piled high on Jewish rye) food culture. 22

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

Know Your Deli C O R N E D B E E F:

lean; mild; salty M O N T R E A L S M O K E D M E AT:

medium lean; cured with lots of garlic and spices PAST R A M I :

marbled; pungent exterior spice rub that includes coriander

www.fleishigs.com


Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

23


BUTCHER'S CUT

Cooking a Pickled Corned Beef We tried five methods of cooking corned beef and they were all successful. Corned beef is a cut that needs to be simmered or steamed for a few hours to achieve a tender consistency, so it can be somewhat forgiving. While all methods worked well, we highly recommend the Instant Pot and stovetop methods for perfectly cooked corned beef, resulting in the best flavors.

Sweet and Tangy Corned Beef Serves: 8

N OT E : For each method, remove

corned beef from packaging and rinse under cold running water. To minimize saltiness, soak corned beef in a bowl of cold water in the fridge for up to 24 hours.

STOV E TOP MET H O D:

IN STA N T P OT:

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

1. Put a rack in an Instant Pot and add 2 cups of water. Place rinsed corned beef (preferably 3-3½ pounds) on the rack.

2. Lower rinsed corned beef into boiling water and simmer for 3 hours. OVE N ME THOD: 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Place rinsed corned beef in a 9x13-inch baking dish and cover two-thirds with water. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours. SLOW COOK E R :

2. Secure lid, insuring the valve is sealed in place, and cook on high pressure for 90 minutes. SOUS V IDE: 1. Place rinsed corned beef in a sous vide bag. Tightly seal and cook at 175°F for 8 hours. 2. Transfer bag to an ice water bath to lower the temperature and stop cooking.

For this recipe, choose any of the corned beef cooking methods outlined above.

1

1 1 ½ 1

1

(4-pound) corned beef, cooked and sliced cup pineapple juice cup ketchup cup brown sugar tablespoon chili-garlic sauce tablespoon mustard

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place sliced corned beef into a 9x13-inch baking dish. 2. Combine pineapple juice, ketchup, brown sugar, chili sauce and mustard. Pour over corned beef and cook, covered, for 20 minutes 3. Uncover and cook for an additional 10 minutes.

1. Place rinsed corned beef in a slow cooker and fill halfway with water. 2. Cover and cook on high for 6 hours or low for up to 12 hours. The longer it cooks, the saltier the flavor.

24

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


BUTCHER'S CUT

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

25


BUTCHER'S CUT

Corned Beef Yapchik Serves: 10-12

Give yapchik – meat-stuffed potato kugel – a makeover using corned beef, making it even better than the classic. Although this recipe suggests 6 hours for the second cook time, it will taste even better if cooked overnight. 8 large russet potatoes, grated 1 Spanish onion, grated 7 eggs 1¼ cups oil 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 (2-pound) corned beef, cut into 2-inch cubes 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Grate potatoes and onion in a food processor, then pour mixture into a large mixing bowl. Add eggs, oil, 1 cup water and salt to the food processor fitted with an “S” blade. Mix until combined, then add to the potato-onion mixture. 2. Pour into a 9x13-inch baking dish, then add corned beef. Cook, uncovered, for 1½ hours. 3. Lower oven temperature to 200°F, then cover tightly with two layers of foil to lock in the moisture and cook for another 6 hours.

26

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


BUTCHER'S CUT

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

27


BUTCHER'S CUT

Loaded Tater Tots Serves: 8

1

1

(2-pound) bag frozen tater tots, cooked according to package instructions (2-pound) corned beef, cubed Pickled Jalapeños (recipe follows) Fleishigs Killer Sauce (recipe follows)

Arrange tater tots on a serving platter and top with corned beef and pickled jalapeños. Drizzle with Fleishigs Killer Sauce.

Pickled Jalapeños Yield: 3 cups

Add 1 cup water, 1 cup vinegar, 2 cloves smashed garlic, 3 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon salt to a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar and salt are dissolved. Let cool for 10 minutes. Pack 8-10 sliced jalapeños in a pickling jar and cover with pickling liquid. Once cooled, seal jar and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Fleishigs Killer Sauce Yield: 2+ cups

Ever since I created this sauce back in 2019, there is always a batch in our fridge to use on everything. It makes an amazing sandwich spread and multipurpose sauce. When Shlomo developed the loaded tater tots recipe, he only had to open our fridge to find the ultimate dressing to bring the dish together. N OT E : Feel free to substitute a heaping ⅓ cup of sweet pickle relish instead of the chopped dill pickles and pickle juice.

Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, ⅓ cup chopped dill pickles, ¼ cup chili sauce, ¼ cup ketchup, 2 cloves minced garlic, 2 tablespoons dill pickle juice, 2 tablespoons freshly grated onion and 2 teaspoons deli mustard. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

28

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

29


BUTCHER'S CUT

Corned Beef Unstuffed Cabbage Serves: 8-10

We cooked a small corned beef (see page 24) on the stovetop for this recipe, reserving 4 cups of cooking liquid to add to the braise. If preparing the corned beef in advance, you can use chicken broth instead. 1 1 2 3 3 1 1 7 4

1

1

1

⅔ ½ 3 2 1

1

tablespoon oil Spanish onion, diced large carrots, diced stalks celery, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoon kosher salt (2-pound) corned beef, cooked cups shredded cabbage cups reserved pickling liquid or chicken broth cup canned crushed tomatoes (8-ounce) can tomato sauce (6-ounce) can tomato paste cup basmati rice cup sugar tablespoons lemon juice tablespoons brown sugar teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon smoked paprika

1. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, carrots and celery and sauté until translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and salt and sauté for another minute. 2. Dice corned beef, then add to the pot with remaining ingredients. Cover and bring to a boil, then simmer for 1½ hours, until corned beef is tender.

30

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com



BUTCHER'S CUT

Corned Beef Burnt Ends Serves: 6

3 2 2 1

32

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

1

tablespoons deli mustard tablespoons coarsely ground pepper teaspoons liquid smoke (2-pound) corned beef, cooked and cut into 2-inch cubes cup barbecue sauce

1. Mix mustard, pepper and liquid smoke in a large bowl, then add cubed corned beef; toss to coat. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Broil for 2-3 minutes per side. 2. Mix barbecue sauce with 1 cup water, pour over the corned beef and broil for another 6 minutes.

www.fleishigs.com


BUTCHER'S CUT

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

33


BREAKING BREAD

34

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


BREAKING BREAD

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

35


BREAKING BREAD

Honey Hawaij Challah with Espresso Tahini Swirl Yield: 2 loaves

A few years ago, my parents traveled to Israel and could not stop talking about an amazing soup they tried at one of the local restaurants. The waiter told them that the secret ingredient was “Hawaii spice.” Determined to replicate this apparent delicacy, my search for “Hawaii spice” began. After much research, I discovered that it is actually called hawaij — a Yemeni spice blend, featuring cumin and cardamom, that adds a unique warm flavor to savory dishes.

• Omit the espresso-tahini filling and/or the hawaij-sugar topping for a simpler challah. FO R T H E C H A L L A H D O U G H :

1⅓ ⅓ 4 2 4¼ ½ 3 3

Aside from the aforementioned savory blend, there is also an alternate version of hawaij called “hawaij for coffee,” which is used in sweet applications and features cinnamon, cardamom and ginger. Now that we have officially entered honey and pumpkin spice season, I thought it would be a nice change of pace to bake this version of hawaij into challah. Not only is the challah dough itself delicious, but the added depth of tahini and espresso flavors swirled into the strands enhances it entirely.

1

cups water cup canola oil egg yolks teaspoons kosher salt cups bread flour cup honey tablespoons dark brown sugar tablespoons hawaij for coffee (see note) tablespoon instant yeast

FO R T H E E S P R E SSO -TA H I N I F I L L I N G :

⅔ ⅓ 2 1 ½

cup tahini paste cup dark brown sugar tablespoons instant espresso powder tablespoon hot water teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

1

egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water

N OT E S :

FO R T H E H AWA I J -SU GA R TO P P I N G :

• If you can’t source hawaij for coffee (see page 14), use 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 2 teaspoons cardamom, 2 teaspoons ginger, ½ teaspoon ground cloves and a pinch of nutmeg. Alternatively, use a store bought pumpkin or apple pie spice

2 1

Drunken Monkey Bread

¼ ½ ¼

Yield: 1 large or 2 small monkey breads

In this festive edition of monkey bread meets challah, I fold spiced rum raisins and honey bourbon glaze into a spiced challah dough. The bourbon sauce has so many layers of flavor baked throughout, resulting in this sticky delicious treat. Don’t let the alcohol scare you — it bakes out, so it is safe to serve to underage monkeys! N OT E : Instead of rolling the balls of challah in melted butter before coating them in cinnamon sugar (as is traditional for monkey bread), I roll straight in the cinnamon-sugar mixture. This works best if the dough is a little sticky, so avoid flouring your surface. FO R T H E H O N E Y B O U R B O N SAU C E :

3 ¼ 36

seasoning — just make sure it doesn’t have any added sugar.

tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute cup brown sugar

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

tablespoons turbinado sugar teaspoon hawaij for coffee (see note)

1. For the challah, add ingredients to a bread machine in the order specified by the manufacturer. Set machine for “dough”

cup bourbon cup honey teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E S P I C E D RU M R A I S I N S :

⅓ ⅓

cup raisins cup spiced rum

FO R T H E C H A L L A H :

½ 1

cup sugar tablespoon cinnamon Honey Hawaij Challah dough (recipe above)

1. Liberally grease a 10-inch Bundt pan and set aside. For the honey bourbon sauce, add all ingredients to a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and cook for 5-10 minutes, stirring regularly, until sauce thickens slightly. Transfer sauce to a bowl to cool and wipe saucepan clean. 2. For the spiced rum raisins, add raisins and rum to the saucepan over medium heat

cycle. If not using a bread machine, mix all ingredients in a large bowl, then knead for 5 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap or a towel and let rise in a dark place for 1½ hours. 2. For the espresso-tahini filling, mix tahini, brown sugar, espresso powder, hot water and salt to form a paste. 3. Once dough has risen, remove from the bread machine or bowl and divide into 6 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll 3 portions into long ropes and, using a rolling pin, roll each portion into a rectangle approximately 12 inches long and 8 inches wide. 4. Spread an equal portion of filling over each rectangle, leaving a ½-inch border all the way around. Roll from the long edge of the dough, jelly roll-style, then seal seam by pinching dough together. Repeat with remaining rectangles, then carefully braid together. 5. Place in a greased loaf pan or on a greased baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover with a towel and let rise for an additional 20-30 minutes in a dark place. 6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush with egg wash. Mix turbinado sugar and hawaij for coffee, then sprinkle a generous amount over each challah. Bake for approximately 40-45 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer challahs to a wire rack to cool. Serve slightly warm.

and cook until liquid is absorbed and raisins have plumped. Set aside to cool. 3. Mix cinnamon and sugar in a small bowl and set aside. Once dough has risen, use a sharp knife or dough cutter to divide it into 50-60 small pieces. Coat each piece in cinnamon-sugar mixture, then gently place in the prepared Bundt pan, layering the rum raisins between pieces, making sure to not pack the dough too tightly. Cover with a towel and let rise for an additional 30 minutes in a dark place. 4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Drizzle half of the honey bourbon sauce over the covered pieces in the Bundt pan. Using a spoon or spatula, gently separate the pieces of dough to allow the sauce to spread and seep further down into the pan. 5. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until golden and set. Let cool, then invert onto a plate. Serve with the remaining sauce. www.fleishigs.com


BREAKING BREAD

Mandy Silverman founded Mandylicious in 2013 in Sharon, MA. Since then, she has created over 300 unique challah and babka recipes and has developed a worldwide following. In addition to selling challah and teaching classes, Mandy loves sharing her recipes and tips, while supporting others who want to make their own challah too. Follow Mandy on Instagram @mandyliciouschallah.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

37






SEASONAL

FTER SPENDING EIGHT YEARS LIVING ABOVE THE STALLS OF JERUSALEM’S FAMOUS MACHANE YEHUDA MARKET, I WAS LEFT WITH A FEW IMPRESSIONS THAT WILL STAY WITH ME FOREVER — THE REPETITIOUS SONG OF “ESRIM PITOT B’ESER” (20 PITAS FOR 10 SHEKEL) AND A DEEP FONDNESS FOR MARKETS, PRODUCE, SEASONALITY AND CLOSE MERCHANT RELATIONSHIPS. THE FIRST TIME I stepped foot into the open air market of Jerusalem, I was 18 years old and enthralled by the fragrance of roasted almonds, the sweet smell of freshly baked rugelach and summer fruit basking in the potent August sun. The aromatic herbs were intoxicating, the perfumes of spices were addictive and I had just stepped into the experience that I would later call “shuk juice.” The sound of a single oud (a pear-shaped stringed instrument) playing quickly turned the scene into a fairytale. Soon after, I found myself a resident of the market, living, eating, working and cooking all within the small streets and tangled alleyways. I worked in local eateries

42

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

and restaurants, learning about the endless foods I never had growing up. My go-to comfort meal quickly became home cooked Iraqi or Turkishstyle stews and rice from my adopted Israeli family. The Mizrahis were pioneers of fine dining in Jerusalem and I was lucky enough to learn the basics of cooking — the fundamentals and execution of both simple and complicated dishes — from them. In 2002, they opened the first espresso bar in the shuk — the most charming French pastry shop nestled between the butchers and fishmongers. In 2016, Eli Mizrahi was honored with lighting a torch at the annual televised Israeli Independence Day celebration for playing an instrumental role in bringing tourism to Machane Yehuda, making it one of the most visited spots in Jerusalem. These salads are inspired by my time spent in the shuk, learning about Israeli agriculture and raw materials. The diversity of the shuk is reflected in these salads and they each have their own theme and personality. My only request is that you use very high quality olive oil, which will enhance the beautiful produce used in homage to such a wonderful, magical place.

www.fleishigs.com


SEASONAL

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

43


SEASONAL

Crunchy Black Lentil Salad Serves: 6-8

This salad is the essence of the shuk. Something that “shuk cooks” are excellent at is turning seemingly simple and unfussy ingredients into something impressive. That’s what this salad represents — humble lentils and root vegetables served with a few more stellar ingredients, simply dressed and served beautifully. N OT E :

• Petite black lentils, once cooked, retain the best texture out of all the lentils. Be sure to check them and taste for doneness, so as not to overcook. Mushy lentils are no good! • When shopping for produce, look for seasonal varieties, such as heirloom, watermelon or breakfast radishes. 1 ⅓

1

½

1 1

1 1 3 3 ½ ¼ ¼ ¼

cup petite black lentils cup olive oil Zest and juice of 2 lemons (about ⅓ cup juice) teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste teaspoon cumin cup fresh parsley, leaves only, finely chopped green apple, julienned shallot, diced small radishes, thinly sliced scallions, thinly sliced kohlrabi, julienned cup toasted pine nuts cup pomegranate seeds cup pitted Castelvetrano or Israeli olives, such as Tuscanini, smashed with the back of a knife

1. Add lentils to a saucepan over high heat and cover with water. Cover pan and bring to a boil, then simmer for 2025 minutes, until tender but not mushy. Strain, then rinse under cold running water. 2. Whisk olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, pepper and cumin. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. 3. Mix remaining ingredients with lentils, then lightly toss with vinaigrette.

44

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SEASONAL

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

45


SEASONAL

46

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SEASONAL

Steak Salad Serves: 4

One thing I learned during my time in Israeli restaurants is that every cook has traveled somewhere in Southeast Asia after their army service, returning with a burst of ideas on how to incorporate Asian cuisine into their repertoire. This salad is inspired by the shuk and by Japanese flavors, which, in my opinion, is the perfect fusion. It’s a great salad to serve on Shabbos because the steak is delicious at room temperature or even cold. N OT E : This recipe was originally developed using yuzu, a Japanese citrus. As it’s quite challenging to find, Meyer lemons (or even regular lemons) work perfectly as well.

1 1 1

1 1 2

1

head radicchio small head red leaf lettuce orange, supremed, or 2 plums, sliced cup fresh mint cup fresh cilantro red chilis, thinly sliced diagonally Grilled Skirt Steak (page 98), sliced Soy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette (recipe follows) tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1. Arrange radicchio and lettuce on a platter. Top with fruit, herbs, chilis and steak. 2. Drizzle with dressing, then garnish with sesame seeds.

Soy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette Yield: 2 cups

Mix 3 minced garlic cloves, 1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger, ¾ cup grapeseed oil, the juice of 2 Meyer lemons, ⅓ cup soy sauce, ¼ cup brown sugar, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

47


SEASONAL

48

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SEASONAL

Roasted Okra Salad Serves: 4-6

Okra is a versatile vegetable that Israelis love adding to their big stews, so its season in Israel is exciting and celebratory. I love stuffing okra with goat cheese or just roasting it until slimy and yummy, letting it speak for itself. If okra isn’t your thing or you can’t find it, use green beans or asparagus instead. S H I F R A’S N OT E : The basil vinaigrette was so phenomenal and versatile; I used the leftovers on a fresh corn salad, which was devoured in no time.

1 2½ 1 ½ 8 8 1 ¼

pound okra tablespoons oil, divided teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ounces red cherry tomatoes, halved ounces yellow cherry tomatoes, halved shallot, diced Basil Vinaigrette (recipe follows) cup sliced almonds

1. Rinse okra in a strainer under cold running water, then dry well with paper towels. 2. Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss okra with 1½ tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper and roast for 15 minutes, then broil for 1-2 minutes, until slightly charred. Alternatively, grill the okra for a similar effect. 3. Toss red cherry tomatoes with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and roast for 10 minutes. 4. Arrange roasted okra and tomatoes on a platter. Top with yellow cherry tomatoes and shallots. Drizzle with vinaigrette and top with sliced almonds.

Basil Vinaigrette Yield: 1½ cups

Blend 2 cups fresh basil, ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, ¼ cup canola oil, 3 minced garlic cloves, 1 minced shallot, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon red chili flakes, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Mushka Haskelevich grew up in Crown Heights, Brooklyn and always had a thirst for good food and quality ingredients. At the age of 18 she began working in restaurants such as Moses Wendel’s Pardes and Itta Werdiger’s Mason & Mug, honing the skills that would pave her career path. Mushka lived in Israel for eight years where she learned how to cook from the Mizrahi family, pioneers in the Jerusalem restaurant scene, and worked in many restaurants and eateries in various capacities. Currently, Mushka lives in Brooklyn, NY and works as a private chef, preparing the food she loves for a wide client base. In her spare time, you can find Mushka in the Fleishigs test kitchen or cruising and perusing the various markets of New York City. Follow Mushka on Instagram @mushkainthemarket or her website mushkainthemarket.com.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

49




TRADITION

52

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


TRADITION

Once exclusively made at home by members of the Iraqi and Kurdish communities, kubbeh, otherwise known as filled dumplings, has expanded to Israelis of many backgrounds since the early 20th century. Commonly served in restaurants across Israel, most notably in the Machane Yehuda market in Jerusalem, kubbeh can be served in a variety of ways and every family has their own tradition.

Basic Kubbeh Yield: 1 dozen kubbeh

FO R T H E F I L L I N G : By: Shifra Klein

Kubbeh, filled dumplings, are reminiscent of matzah balls and can be used interchangeably in any soup. Although matzah balls, classic Ashkenazi Jewish fare, are incredibly nostalgic, kubbeh is a culinary experience in its own right. The main difference is the convenience of a boxed matzah ball mix, whereas kubbeh can take an hour to prepare, so I recommend making a large batch and freezing to use as needed. N OT E : Freeze kubbeh after forming into balls — place in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze. Once frozen, transfer balls to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag and freeze for up to 2 months.

1 1 1½ 1 1

pound ground beef onion, shredded or puréed teaspoons baharat teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

FO R T H E D O U G H :

2 1 1 1 1 ½

cups semolina cup warm water tablespoon oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon baharat

1. For the filling, mix ingredients, then roll into teaspoon-sized balls. Set aside. 2. For the dough, mix ingredients until incorporated; dough will be wet and be elastic in texture. Let rest for 30 minutes. 3. Divide dough into small pieces, roughly the size of ping pong balls. With wet hands, roll each piece into a smooth ball. Use your thumb to make a hole in the middle of the ball and, with circular movements, stretch dough as much as possible without breaking it. Place a ball of filling in the hole and fold the edges around the filling, forming a ball. 4. Add balls to a pot of boiling soup or water and cook until they float to the top, about 20-25 minutes.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

53


54

1

2

3

5

6

7

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


4

9

8

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

55


TRADITION

56

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


TRADITION

Israeli-Inspired Butternut Squash Soup Serves: 10

By: Shifra Klein

This soup is inspired by one we ate at Azura in Jerusalem’s Machane Yehuda market. Hawaij (for soup — not to be confused with hawaij for coffee featured on page 14) is an incredibly flavorful Yemeni spice blend that commonly features coriander, cumin, turmeric and black pepper. The word hawaij literally means “blend” or “mixture” in Arabic and can include an array of spices depending on the culture. 2 1 3 1 1½ 1½ 1 1 1 2 2 2

tablespoons olive oil onion, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoon tomato paste, optional teaspoons hawaij for soup teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon baharat teaspoon paprika teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups cubed butternut squash carrots, diced stalks celery, diced Basic Kubbeh (recipe above), cooked, optional

1. Heat oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, about 10 minutes. 2. Lower heat to medium-low, add garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add tomato paste and spices and sauté for another 2-3 minutes. Add butternut squash, carrots and celery and stir to coat. 3. Add 8 cups water and bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Serve with kubbeh, if desired.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

57


TRADITION

Sweet and Sour Beet Soup (Kubbeh Shwander) Serves: 8

By: Sina Mizrahi

Make sure to pay attention to the timer when making this soup; the sweet spot is one hour — any longer and the beets will lose their vibrant color and the kubbeh balls will start sticking to each other.

58

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

5 1 5-6 4 4-6 1½ ¾

tablespoons oil large onion, diced stalks celery, sliced beets, peeled and sliced into half moons Juice of 2 lemons (about ½ cup juice) tablespoons sugar teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Basic Kubbeh (recipe above) Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add celery and beets and sauté for 1 minute. 2. Add 10-12 cups water and bring to a boil. Add lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-7 minutes. 3. Reduce heat, then lower kubbeh balls into the boiling soup and simmer, partly covered, for 1 hour. To serve, garnish with parsley.

www.fleishigs.com


TRADITION

Sour Chard Soup Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

This soup is perfect for fall. It’s warm, nurturing and packed with nutrients and immune boosting ingredients like lemon, turmeric, chicken stock and garlic — a Sephardic version of matzah ball soup. 2 1 1 6 1 1 ½

½ 2 8

tablespoons olive oil large Spanish onion, diced tablespoon vegetable oil cloves garlic, minced bunch scallions, chopped teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon turmeric bunches Swiss chard, chopped cups chicken stock (or 8 cups water + 2 tablespoons chicken soup mix) Juice of 2 lemons (about ½ cup juice) Basic Kubbeh (recipe above), cooked, optional

1. Heat oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add scallions, salt, pepper and turmeric and sauté for another 4 minutes. 2. Add Swiss chard and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 20-30 minutes, until chard is tender and cooked through. 3. Add lemon juice and cook for an additional 10-15 minutes. Serve with kubbeh, if desired.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

59


TRADITION

Okra Stew (Kubbeh Bamia) Serves: 10-12 By: Rachel Sheff and Sharon Gomperts

Kubbeh Bamia is a sweet and sour okra stew made with onions, tomatoes, butternut squash and lemon. It delights the palate with its complex flavors and the contrasting textures of crisp, juicy, okra and soft, sweet butternut squash. The stew itself is enhanced with a base of onions, garlic, celery and a judiciously placed marrow or neck bone. E D I TO R’S N OT E : Okra season is summer through early fall, but if you can’t find fresh, feel free to use frozen — no need to thaw it first. If buying fresh, look for smaller okras.

¼ 2 3 6 1 1 1 4

¼ 2 2 1 ½

2

1

1

cup avocado or canola oil Spanish onions, diced large tomatoes, chopped cloves garlic, minced teaspoon coriander teaspoon paprika teaspoon turmeric stalks celery, finely chopped Juice of 2 lemons (about ½ cup juice) cup tomato paste tablespoons chicken consommé tablespoons sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper pounds butternut squash, diced into 2-inch pieces pound marrow or neck bones, optional pound okra Basic Kubbeh (recipe above)

1. Heat oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent. Lower heat and add tomatoes, garlic, coriander, paprika and turmeric. Sauté until tomatoes and garlic soften, 5-7 minutes. 2. Add celery, lemon juice, tomato paste, consommé, sugar, salt, pepper, butternut squash and marrow bones. Cover with 10 cups water. Stir well and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Add okra and continue to simmer, covered, for another 20 minutes. 3. Lower kubbeh balls into the stew, making sure the liquid covers them completely, and simmer for 25-30 minutes.

60

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com



PROFILE

62

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


PROFILE

They were never invited back.

Rachel and Sharon would host people for Shabbat and holiday meals and everyone would have a wonderful time, but afterwards, their friends would say, “We aren’t good enough cooks to invite you back!” This inspired them to share their culinary skills and begin hosting community cooking classes.

THE MOROCCAN SPICE GIRL ,

Rachel Sheff and Sharon Gomperts have been writing the weekly food column for the Los Angeles Jewish Journal for the past 18 months. Follow them on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on the Sephardic Spice SEC FOOD Facebook page.

Rachel Sheff, was born in Casablanca and emigrated to Los Angeles in October 1973. The Iraqi Spice Girl, Sharon Gomperts, was born in Petach Tikva, grew up in Sydney, Australia and emigrated to Los Angeles in 1981. Rachel and Sharon met in high school and remained close friends through marriage and motherhood; their children are friends too. Over the years, they have worked on the Los Angeles Sephardic Educational Center Film Festival and other events to support the SEC campus in the Jewish Quarter in Jerusalem. When Rachel’s mother began spending less and less time in the kitchen, Rachel realized the importance of preserving the family recipes for the next generation. She spent as much time in the kitchen with her mother as she could and recorded recipes, tips and tricks. Aside from these Moroccan recipes, Rachel also practiced cooking the Sephardic specialties of her husband’s Rhodesli family. Along this culinary journey, she encouraged Sharon to tackle more complicated Iraqi recipes as well. Together, they mastered the complicated art of making kubbeh, a traditional Iraqi dish. Kubbeh, which literally means ball or dome in Arabic, is a specialty that can be traced back to the medieval kitchens of the Baghdadi caliphate. Every Middle Eastern country has their version — the Syrian kibbeh, Egyptian kobbebah, the Moroccan pastele. Growing up in her Iraqi grandmother’s kitchen, Sharon inevitably watched her preparing lots and lots of kubbeh for family meals. Sometimes there would be potato

kubbeh — mashed potatoes stuffed with ground beef, onion, Italian parsley, pine nuts and golden sultanas (raisins), then breaded and fried to golden perfection. Rachel’s Moroccan grandmother made pasteles, a similar combination of potato and ground beef, spiced with turmeric, nutmeg and garlic. Sometimes Sharon’s grandmother made kubbeh b’ruz, a rice shell stuffed with shredded chicken breast, then boiled and fried. Sharon’s great aunt, Auntie Naima, was famous for her kubbeh b’ruz stuffed with fish and Italian parsley. The Iraqi kubbeh bu’rul, a cracked bulgur wheat casing stuffed with ground beef, onion, parsley and pine nuts, is very similar to the Syrian kibbeh. Syrian kibbeh is flavored with allspice and shaped like a narrow torpedo, while Iraqi kubbeh is round and flattened and flavored with baharat spice blend, which includes cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, nutmeg and allspice. The Iraqi Kurds make kubbeh hamousta or hamuth, a sour soup made with Swiss chard, zucchini, celery, tomato paste and lots of lemon juice. Their kubbeh shell is made with fine bulgur wheat and stuffed with shredded slowroasted lamb and lamb fat. The Iraqi kubbeh made from rice flour or semolina and cooked in a stew are the most celebrated and flavorful of the Iraqi kitchen. The shell is thin, soft and creamy, gently encasing a delicious, delicately spiced meat filling. Kubbeh shwander is a vibrant purple sweet and sour beet soup that explodes with flavor and keeps your mouth puckering for more. Whatever the version, Sephardic food is deeply rooted in tradition and flavor.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

63




FAMILY DINNERS

66

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


FAMILY DINNERS

To me, it’s pure comfort food and I can never get enough of it. The pseudocereal buckwheat you either love or hate has a versatility unlike many other foods. When cooked right, it’s a perfect bite, but when it’s not, well … then I understand your current skepticism. While some think immediately of kasha varnishkes, the classic Jewish dish that combines kasha with bowtie pasta (and usually schmaltz!), I love drowning a bowl of fluffy warm kasha in cold milk. I can’t think of anything that waxes nostalgic more than that and best of all — my kids love it too! Kasha has a nutty flavor and is low in saturated fat and cholesterol. It’s gluten-free, easily digested and super hearty. It is a fruit seed and not related to wheat at all. I grew up in a kasha-loving home, where both of my parents deemed themselves experts, but it goes further back than that. Both of my grandmothers (one Russian-born living in Casablanca, Morocco and the other Polish-born living in Crown Heights, Brooklyn) grew up on kasha as well. Back in the day, it was a cheap, accessible, filling grain that was served with everything, from cereal to soup and even cholent. Back in Europe, kasha was sourced as the full buckwheat grain, whereas now kasha is typically roasted and granulated (my go-to brand is Wolff’s, which comes in a few varieties — whole, coarse and medium granulation), making it much more palatable and accessible. When we lived in Israel, I could not find Wolff’s brand of kasha anywhere! I bought whole buckwheat grains to roast and blend myself and let’s just say it was a major fail. I’ll never forget the look of panic on my husband’s face the first time I made kasha. His only prior experience had been the daily breakfast when he spent a month in Ukraine, which consisted of a bowl of bland, dry kasha and sliced tomatoes. All it took was one bowl of my family's traditional kasha and he was hooked — no comparison! Needless to say, I am on a mission to break the kasha stigma and make haters into lovers.

I’m just gonna say it — I love kasha!

Mom’s Kasha Yield: 4 cups

My favorite way to eat kasha is like oatmeal or cereal — just top a bowl of warm kasha with cold milk. My mom loves warm kasha with sliced avocado and a dollop of cottage cheese. Beyond that, kasha is excellent in any salad that might call for quinoa. N OT E : My preferred kasha variety is medium granulation. If using fine granulation, cook for 8 minutes.

1½ 1 1 2

teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon oil cup Wolff’s medium granulation kasha eggs, beaten

1. Bring 4 cups water, salt and oil to a boil in a large saucepan. In the meantime, mix kasha and eggs in a bowl until coated and well combined. Add kasha to boiling water, using a fork to break up any clumps. 2. Return to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 12 minutes. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. To reheat, add to a saucepan with 2 tablespoons water and reheat over a low flame until warmed through.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

67


FAMILY DINNERS

Hearty Kasha Salad Serves: 4

¼ 2 1 1½ ¼ 1 2 1

68

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

cup olive oil tablespoons apple cider vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice tablespoon maple or date syrup teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup Mom’s Kasha (recipe above) Roma tomatoes, chopped red bell pepper, diced

2 1 2 ½

Persian cucumbers, diced (15-ounce) can chickpeas scallions, thinly sliced cup chopped fresh herbs (such as cilantro, parsley or mint), optional

1. Shake olive oil, apple cider vinegar, maple syrup, salt and pepper in a jar until emulsified. 2. Mix kasha, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, chickpeas, scallions and herbs, if desired. Toss with vinaigrette.

www.fleishigs.com


FAMILY DINNERS

Kasha-Stuffed Capons Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

Kasha offers a hearty alternative to the more traditional rice stuffing. The tart cherry barbecue sauce complements the kasha perfectly. Feel free to make this recipe with any cooked grain you may have on hand (farro and rice work wonderfully). 2 1 ½ ¼

tablespoons oil small onion, diced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 3 1 1½ 8 ½ ½ 1 1

cup chopped mushrooms sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only cup baby spinach cups Mom’s Kasha (recipe above) chicken capons cup barbecue sauce cup cherry preserves tablespoon lemon juice teaspoon hot sauce

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease a 9-inch baking dish and set aside. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions, salt and pepper and sauté until translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add

mushrooms and thyme and sauté for an additional 10-15 minutes, until mushrooms soften. Add spinach and sauté until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in cooked kasha. Let cool. 2. Lay capons on a clean work surface and stuff each with ¼ cup kasha stuffing mixture. Roll to seal and place in the prepared baking dish. 3. Combine barbecue sauce, cherry preserves, lemon juice and hot sauce and pour over chicken. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook for an additional 30 minutes.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

69


FAMILY DINNERS

70

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


FAMILY DINNERS

UNQUESTIONABLY GOOD. Kasha Lo Mein Serves: 8-10

By: Shifra Klein

This is a wonderful lo mein recipe with or without the kasha, but I love the texture and nutritional value that it adds to this dish and the way it sort of mimics pieces of meat. I toast the kasha so that it adds an even better textural component and bite, but have made it with just cooked kasha too and liked both versions.

1½ ½ 1 2 1½ ½

3 1 2 2 1 1 1 1

cups Mom’s Kasha (recipe above) cup thick teriyaki sauce tablespoon rice vinegar teaspoons Sriracha tablespoons toasted sesame oil cup chicken stock (or ½ cup water + 1 teaspoon chicken soup mix) tablespoons oil or schmaltz bunch scallions, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced carrots, julienned cup sliced mushrooms cup shredded Napa cabbage cup snow peas pound ramen or lo mein noodles, cooked al dente

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread kasha on the pan in an even layer and toast for 5-10 minutes. Set aside. 2. Mix teriyaki sauce, rice vinegar, Sriracha, sesame oil and chicken stock. Set aside. 3. Heat oil in a large wok or sauté pan over high heat. Add scallions and garlic and sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add carrots, mushrooms and cabbage and sauté for 3-4 minutes. Add snow peas and sauté for another 1 minute. 4. Add noodles and sauce. Cook for about 3 minutes, tossing until noodles are fully coated and sauce thickens. Mix in toasted kasha.

Mushky Perlstein grew up in Canada and, once married, lived in Israel, South Africa and Tennessee before settling with her husband in the Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles. They currently serve as Chabad emissaries at NELA Chabad (Eagle Rock and Echo Park), a community built by young creatives and professionals. Mushky has become well known for her large, sought-after Shabbat meals and posts her menus and recipes on her website mymamenu.com and Instagram @mymamenu.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

71




RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

74

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

APP LAUNCH PARTY BY: DANIT SCHUSTERMAN AND ELISHEVA TAITZ

I

N A DIMLY-LIT ROOM at Wolf & Lamb steakhouse in midtown Manhattan, Shifra and Shlomo Klein warmly welcomed guests to celebrate the launch of their new app — an incredible new resource that includes every recipe ever published in the three years since the launch of Fleishigs Magazine.

For over 20 years, Wolf & Lamb has been serving high-quality kosher food in New York City and played an instrumental role in the revolution of fine kosher dining. The steakhouse continues to take pride in using the best meats, all butchered on premises and hand-selected for perfection. With an industrial aesthetic and unique modern art by Ephraim Wuensch adorning the walls, the restaurant is warm

and inviting. Guests of the launch party were seated comfortably in the private event room on the second floor, an ideal place to host a party. Printed menu cards, small floral arrangements, lit candles and Manhattan views set the tone for the evening. Guests were introduced to Wolf & Lamb owner Zalman Wuensch, a true mensch, who made sure the night began seamlessly.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

75


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

DIY Beef Tartare

with one of Fleishigs’ trademark recipes — beef tartare — but instead of serving it as a traditional appetizer, the ingredients were arranged on the tables and guests were encouraged to DIY, making it an interactive, fun activity. The components were freshly chopped kosher filet mignon (otherwise known as the eye of the ribeye), chopped capers, whole grain mustard, Dijon mustard, sliced radishes, cornichons, kosher salt, ground black pepper, extra-virgin olive oil, chopped fresh parsley, egg yolk and radish sprouts. Fleishigs editor Elisheva Taitz confidently dove right in and demonstrated by carefully folding the ingredients in with the meat, then spooning the mixture onto slices of toasted baguette and garnishing with radish sprouts, creating a perfectly balanced bite. “I guess we’re working for our food tonight!” she joked as she passed the tartare down the table. Guests marveled at the experience and were speechless, yet not surprised that editor-in-chief Shifra Klein came up with such a concept. Beyond the recipes in Fleishigs, many issues include an account of experiential dining, or THE DINNER STARTED

76

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

“live articles,” taking readers along on the journey. However, nothing like this has ever been done before at a Fleishigs event. “Shifra and Shlomo set the bar high and continue to raise it with each issue,” shared Fleishigs’ photographer Schneur Menaker. As appetizers were brought to the tables, Shifra expressed her excitement over the launch of the app, stating that it was a long time coming, but that it didn’t come without hesitation. Having been in the kosher magazine business with her husband Shlomo for over 10 years, Shifra was always determined to keep Fleishigs strictly in print. However, she eventually realized that an app would never replace print and would only be an added benefit for subscribers. Shlomo expressed gratitude to Mann Sales Co., the same company behind the magazine’s iconic design, for being huge players in making the app come to life. Babka baker extraordinaire and Detroit native Naomi Elberg was in town for business and was honored to be at the event. “You will always find me in the grocery store with either a cookbook or a Fleishigs magazine in hand,” she www.fleishigs.com


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

shared. “This app is huge and will now allow me to have 30 (and counting) issues at my fingertips.” Yoav Davis, founder of Davis Media and Jews of NY, and content creator Tal Gerber brought their signature flair to the event and videoed and documented everything. Yoav expressed his admiration for Fleishigs in bringing so many people together, from all walks of Jewish life. “This is more than just a magazine and more than just an app. It’s a community focused on inclusivity,” he said. The sentiment was echoed by CBS New York reporter Lisa Rozner. As guests enjoyed Wolf & Lamb’s signature pizzas (pulled beef with kale, pickled onions and crispy garlic; duck sausage with sautéed leeks, figs and watercress), spicy chicken fingers, two kinds of sliders and lamb merguez meatballs, makeup artist Gitty Berger expressed that, despite not being a “foodie,” she enjoys the aesthetic and modern take that Fleishigs brings to the kosher market. As fellow cookbook authors and food bloggers Danielle Renov and Chanie Apfelbaum fought over the last short rib slider, Chanie noted how everything nowadays is going

digital and that Fleishigs is headed in the right direction. “I used to text Shifra for a recipe from an old issue I either lost or couldn’t find. Being able to search on the app by keyword or contributor is remarkable,” she delighted. Next came the mains — coffee-rubbed filet mignon and ribeye steak (both cooked perfectly at medium-rare) and short rib gnocchi with butternut squash — and the sides — Wolf & Lamb’s famous giant onion rings, sautéed kale with mushrooms and roasted cauliflower steak with walnuts and pesto. Chef Rigoberto Mosso executed a wonderful meal and the service, overseen by Zalman, was attentive, swift and courteous. Before guests were preparing for dessert, Danielle delivered an impromptu and heartfelt toast to Shifra and Shlomo. “I think I can speak on behalf of everyone here. We love the magazine and we love what you’re doing for the SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

77


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

kosher world and for people in general. The way you run your business with such integrity and dignity makes me proud to know you both,” she shared. Pastry chef Roshel Yusupov created a breathtakingly beautiful dessert platter for each table, which consisted of warm chocolate lava cake, brûléed non-dairy cheesecake with fresh fruit, lemon meringue cake and non-dairy vanilla bean ice cream with a chocolate curl. Guests enjoyed cocktails, such as the espresso martini using Misceo coffee liqueur. In true Fleishigs style, each guest went home with a swag bag — a highquality canvas tote — that included a bottle of Misceo chocolate liqueur, a

78

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

“This is more than just a magazine and more than just an app. It’s a community focused on inclusivity.” -Yoav Davis Jews of NY

shot glass, a Fleishigs mug, a can of J. Folk or Bartenura rosé, two of Gaia’s artisanal coffee rubs, a jarred spice and package of seaweed snack from Natural Earth Products, Tuscanini cauliflower gnocchi and Grow & Behold beef jerky. The app, now available to magazine subscribers only, is only one of the many revolutionary plans on tap for Fleishigs. Shlomo thanked everyone for joining and expressed a final sentiment. “The future is bright for Fleishigs and the best is yet to come.”

Wolf & Lamb is located at 16 East 48th Street, NYC. For reservations, call (212) 317-1950 or visit their website wolfandlambsteakhouse.com.

www.fleishigs.com


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Sophia Azulay, Gitty Berger, Danielle Renov, Raquel Shapiro and Naomi Elberg

Danielle Renov and Tal Gerber

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

79


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Chef Rigoberto Mosso

80

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Wold & Lamb owner Zalman Wuensch

Rabbi Sholom and Danit Schusterman Avital Chizhik-Goldschmidt, Shifra Klein, Shlomo Klein and Rabbi Benjamin Goldschmidt Danielle Renov, Raquel Shapiro, Naomi Elberg and Elisheva Taitz

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

81


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Duck Sausage Pizza Serves: 2-4

2 1 2

1 2 4

1 1 ½ 1 1 ⅓ 2

By: Chef Rigoberto Mosso

tablespoons olive oil onion, sliced leeks, light parts only, thoroughly cleaned and thinly sliced tablespoon all-purpose flour tablespoons non-dairy milk ounces sliced duck sausage, such as Pelleh Poultry duck kielbasa tablespoon maple syrup teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, to taste prepared pizza crust heaping cup watercress cup dried figs, sliced tablespoons pickled chili peppers

1. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté until lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add leeks and sauté for another 2 minutes. 2. Add flour and toss to coat. Increase heat to high, then add non-dairy milk; stir until mixture thickens like gravy, 2-3 minutes. 3. Lower heat and add sliced sausage, maple syrup, salt and pepper; simmer for 2 minutes. 4. Preheat oven to 450°F. Spread mixture on pizza crust and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. To serve, top with watercress, dried figs and pickled chilis.

82

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Lamb Merguez Meatballs Serves: 2-4

1 1 ½ ¼ ¼ 1 3 1 ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2

By: Chef Rigoberto Mosso

pound ground lamb clove garlic, minced cup chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish cup chopped shallots cup panko breadcrumbs, plus more for garnish egg, beaten sprigs fresh thyme, stripped teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon cumin teaspoon paprika teaspoon cayenne pepper teaspoon kosher salt Olive oil, as needed cups marinara sauce

1. Mix lamb, garlic, parsley, shallots, breadcrumbs, egg, thyme leaves, oregano, cumin, paprika, cayenne pepper and salt. Form into balls, 1.4 ounces each. 2. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Sear meatballs until browned, about 2-4 minutes per side. 3. Add marinara sauce and cook, slightly covered, for 30 minutes. Garnish with fresh parsley and breadcrumbs.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

83






SUKKOT FEAST

HAT HAPPENS WHEN old friends potluck? 2010 was a year in which the kosher food world was transitioning to meet the demands of a growing number of kosher cooks looking to experience food that was on par with the rest of the industry. That’s when Shlomo and I launched the first kosher food magazine, Bitayavon; Naftali and Anna Hanau had launched Grow & Behold, a direct-to-consumer company dedicated to providing farm-to-kitchen, pasture-raised, antibiotic-free meat; and Moshe Wendel, a seasoned, classically-trained chef in Fresh cuisine had recently opened Pardes, the revolutionary kosher restaurant in Brooklyn, NY that has since closed. A lot took place that year that changed the course of the kosher food climate forever. Today, Naftali and Anna are still working their magic at Grow & Behold, Shlomo and I currently produce Fleishigs and Moshe Wendel works as a private chef and has some exciting new projects in the works. Back then, all of us shared a common thread of being new to the kosher food scene, without any real connections or business acumen. We remained in touch over the years as we have grown and adapted to the changing landscape — with the addition of a handful of new kids between us! We decided that we were overdue for a reunion, so on a stunning summer afternoon we got together at the Hanaus' townhouse in Crown Heights to feast and catch up on all things food. The meal we quickly put together ended up being so absolutely perfect for Sukkot (we even ate on the terrace!), so beyond sharing some highlights of our conversation, we compiled and shot the recipes that I would best describe as what happens when kosher food pioneers gather together.

88

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SUKKOT FEAST

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

89


SUKKOT FEAST

CHEFS DRIVING BMWS:

So much has changed in the culinary world over the last two decades. Between the rise of social media, the growing popularity of global cuisine and the sheer number of options available, being a chef has become a more respectable profession. “When I started cooking, there were all these dictatorial alcoholic chefs and everyone who worked in the kitchen was either an ex-convict or undocumented immigrant. It wasn't a glamorous environment,” Chef Moshe Wendel recalled. “Now I show up to cooking gigs and see chefs pulling up in BMWs.” According to Chef Moshe, the influx of private chefs (and the downfall of revolutionary restaurants like Pardes, with tailored seasonal menus using high-quality ingredients) in the kosher culinary world has to do with the changing labor laws, making it impossible to run a restaurant like Pardes and turn a profit — a simple reality. Conditions are better for the workers, but fine dining on that level is no longer attainable. Chefs of this caliber turned to full-time consulting or working for wealthy clients to create elevated, multi-course meals not available in any restaurant. MEAT ON THE SIDE:

You wouldn’t expect to hear this from a butcher, but Naftali and Anna expressed their preference to have their “meat on the side.” They see this more and more in many of their young customers who may not purchase the most expensive cuts, but focus on the quality of the foods they consume. It’s for this reason that they shop with 90

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

“I was always against sous vide in my kitchen because I felt it made the chefs lazy, but now it minimizes the time I need to spend training chefs.” -Chef Moshe Wendel

Grow & Behold and then focus on how the sides they prepare will bring just as much to the table as what was traditionally thought of as the main. “We’ve actually covered this topic in a past issue of the magazine,” Shlomo recalled. “Celeste Hackel wrote all about showcasing vegetables as a main course.” We went on to discuss our favorite vegetable dishes from various restaurants, like the Brussels sprouts from Barnea Bistro in NYC, the battered green beans at Soho Asian Bar and Grill in Aventura, FL and the various cauliflower dishes that have sprouted up on almost every single kosher restaurant's menu in recent years. Chefs are taking time to elevate vegetables with finesse and give them the spotlight they deserve. We spoke about the coal-roasted whole kabocha squash that we featured in our July 2021 issue, which was inspired by The Chef ’s Garden cookbook. Produce is truly having its moment and we are here for the journey.

POST COVID — IS DINING IN THE NEW DINING OUT?

When we all started out, everything new was a novelty. Nowadays, home cooks have endless resources and access to thousands of online cooking videos and recipes to expand their skills. During quarantine, when there wasn’t that much to do, home cooks started experimenting with different techniques and trends when takeout became overwhelming. In addition to cooking content, the advancement in technology has also offered home cooks easier and more precise ways to cook an expensive cut of meat without the risk of completely ruining it. An immersion circulator, once reserved for expensive, high-end restaurants, can now be purchased for about $100 and allows home cooks to cook any protein to perfection. Even the sheer ease of ordering such gadgets (without needing to go to a store) has contributed to the success of home cooks today. “I was always against sous vide in my kitchen because I felt it made the chefs lazy,” shared Chef Moshe. “But now it minimizes the time I need to spend training chefs.” Sous vide is great — set a precise low temperature and cook large amounts of meat for an event or dinner. It saves a lot of time and takes out all of the guesswork. For many home cooks, dining in offers some perks that restaurants do not, the biggest being the ability to splurge on a pricey cut of meat and a nice bottle of wine. Coupled with privacy, no risk of bad service and no travel or babysitting costs, dining in is a newfound way to celebrate with loved ones, whether you splurge for a private chef or cook yourself. www.fleishigs.com


SUKKOT FEAST

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

91


SUKKOT FEAST

TABLESIDE SERVICE:

As Chef Moshe mixed the beef tartare tableside, it sparked a conversation about how tableside service is actually something rare in the kosher restaurant world. Tableside service dates back to the Middle Ages and is considered to some as “old school.” While many non-kosher restaurants have become famous for various tableside experiences, from chopped salad, Caesar salad and guacamole to Parmesan cheese wheel pasta, seared duck and flambéed bananas foster, most kosher restaurants have yet to jump on the tableside bandwagon (though a few have). There is an art to tableside prep, which makes it challenging to execute. The balance of preparing all of the components perfectly, while staying clean and meticulous and being engaging with a friendly demeanor is not an easy task for a server. “You can prepare beef tartare up to four hours before your party,” explained Chef Moshe. “I like the steak to shine, so I don’t add too much to it.” Chef Moshe used black garlic in the tartare he prepared for this meal, which added an exciting new element without overpowering the meat. He served it on grilled sourdough, the perfect vessel. While we all dived right in, Naftali admired how delicious the tartare, which was made with shoulder steak, was. “I love using shoulder steak or leaner cuts for tartare,” he commented. Though Chef Moshe, who is not known for holding his opinion to himself, retorted that he definitely prefers ribeye! CLASSIC VS. NEW CUTS:

As we dug into the main course — richly-flavored, perfectly cooked short ribs prepared by Naftali with Anna’s punchy gremolata — we delved into the 92

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

topic of cuts of meat. I explained that English short ribs were a novelty back when we started Bitayavon. While flanken (cut from the short rib) is one of the most traditional cuts of meat in Ashkenazi cuisine, English-cut short ribs were not commonly found in kosher meat departments. Though the cut has now become more well known, it’s expensive and considered a more luxurious choice. I asked Naftali to share some cuts of meat that have remained steadily popular over the years and have defied trends. “There are some cuts, like chicken breast, brisket, ground meat, flanken and London broil that never go out of style,” he noted. “People know how to cook them, they are familyfriendly, inexpensive and work for a crowd.” Naftoli went on to laud one of the newer cuts of meat that Grow & Behold has introduced to the kosher market — Denver steak — which we

featured in the July 2020 issue. “I remember when people didn’t even know about second-cut brisket,” Shlomo shared. “Traditionalists only cooked the first cut and we really pushed the second-cut back then because it has so much more marbling, is easier to cook, leaves less room for error and is so richly flavored.” Anna explained that they are trying to bring back first-cut brisket. She shared that when it’s cooked properly, it can be super tender and delicious. Because of the lower fat content, it’s a healthier cut of meat as well. Shlomo ended off the conversation with a burning question, “So will there ever come a time where all kosher butchers will adhere to uniform, consistently-named cuts of meat?” A resounding “no” was heard around the table. Bottom line, support kosher butchers who know their meat and will guide your purchasing. www.fleishigs.com


SUKKOT FEAST

How to Potluck For this potluck, Anna really stepped up to the plate and graciously planned and hosted the meal. Every potluck needs an Anna, someone who will happily pull it all together in a stress-free manner. Here are some tips: a CONCEPTUALIZE. Before creating the menu and delegating tasks, ask guests for any allergy or dietary restrictions. a DIVIDE AND CONQUER. Create lists and menus and put each guest in charge of something else. a ORGANIZE Those not cooking can partake in setting up or extras such as paper goods or drinks. a BE STRATEGIC in choosing foods that will travel well. If traveling with a braised meat dish full of liquid, strain the liquid into a sealed airtight container. Pour it over the meat before reheating. a COMMUNICATE the theme or style to all participating guests.

COCKTAIL

Cider & Amaro STARTERS

Marinated Olives Citrus and Radicchio Salad Black Garlic Beef Tartare

MAIN COURSE

Short Rib Mole with Spicy Gremolata Braised Duck Legs with Fennel and Shallots

SIDES

Steak Salad with Beef Bacon and Salt-Roasted Potatoes Instant Pot Farro DESSERT

Hawaij Brownie Lava Cake (recipe page 146)

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

93


SUKKOT FEAST

Cider & Amaro Yield: 1 cocktail

By: Naftali Hanau

No shaker or fancy bar accessories are required for this delicious fallinspired cocktail! E D I TO R'S N OT E : See page 14 for the ice cube mold we recommend for large ice cubes. Alternatively, use three regular ice cubes.

Place 1 large ice cube in a glass. Top with 1 ounce herbal amaro (such as Ramazzotti). Fill with dry apple cider, then garnish with fresh mint or rosemary.

94

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SUKKOT FEAST

Marinated Olives Yield: 3 cups

By: Anna Hanau

This is a great way to elevate store bought olives as a perfect accompaniment to any holiday meal. ¼ 2 1 1 1 2

cup olive oil bay leaves Zest of 1 lemon clove garlic, minced sprig fresh rosemary sprig fresh thyme cups pitted Israeli or Castelvetrano olives, such as Tuscanini, drained

Add olive oil, bay leaves, lemon zest, garlic and herbs to a jar and stir to combine. Add olives, cover jar and let marinate at room temperature for 4 hours, shaking occasionally. Store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Citrus and Radicchio Salad Serves: 4

By: Anna Hanau

N OT E S :

• Do yourself a favor and master the technique of supreming citrus, whereby the peel and pith are carefully cut away and the segments are separated, resulting in beautifully intact pieces of citrus perfect for salads like this. Just make sure to use a very sharp paring knife. • Supreme the citrus over a bowl, then once fully segmented, squeeze out what’s left, reserving all the juice. 2-3 1 1 1

1

1 1 1 ¼

heads purple endive head radicchio, roughly torn orange, supremed, juices reserved grapefruit, supremed, juices reserved blood orange, supremed, juices reserved tablespoon olive oil shallot, diced teaspoon kosher salt chopped fresh dill or fennel fronds

1. Arrange endive and radicchio on a large platter and top with citrus segments. 2. Just before serving, combine reserved citrus juice, olive oil, shallots and salt. To serve, drizzle dressing over the salad. Garnish with dill. SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

95


SUKKOT FEAST

Black Garlic Beef Tartare Serves: 8

By: Chef Moshe Wendel

This tartare is all about the beef. Use good quality ingredients and fresh steak, with accompaniments that will enhance the flavor of the meat, not outshine it. Try freezing the steak for about 30 minutes before chopping to make it easier to work with. If you are wary of raw beef tartare, try searing the steak for just a few minutes per side until rare, then let cool and proceed with the recipe. 1¼ ½ 6 2-3 2 1 ⅓ 1

pounds ribeye, finely minced cup chopped fresh parsley tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons black garlic powder, plus more for serving teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Toasted Garlic Sourdough (recipe follows) Pickled Shallots (recipe follows) cup peeled black garlic, chopped tablespoon Maldon salt, for serving

Mix minced steak with parsley, olive oil, black garlic powder, salt and pepper. Serve on toast and top with pickled shallots, black garlic and Maldon salt.

Pickled Shallots Combine 3-4 thinly sliced shallots, ⅓ cup apple cider vinegar and ¾ teaspoon kosher salt. Let marinate at least 20 minutes before serving.

96

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

Braised Duck Legs with Fennel and Shallots Serves: 4

By: Anna Hanau

You don't need a laundry list of ingredients to accomplish great flavor. This dish is the perfect example of how aromatics and seared protein, braised in broth, can be so deceptively delicious. Use chicken legs in place of duck legs, if you prefer. This recipe is adapted from Mark Bittman. 4

1

1

1

4 2

duck legs, at room temperature tablespoon + 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, divided large bulb fennel, thinly sliced pound shallots, thinly sliced sprigs fresh thyme, divided cups chicken or vegetable broth

1. Nestle duck legs, skin-side down, in a cast iron skillet and set

over medium heat. Season with 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper. 2. Cook, undisturbed, for 1012 minutes, until skin is nicely browned and crisp. Flip and cook for another 3-5 minutes, until lightly browned. Transfer duck legs to a plate and pour off all but 2 tablespoons duck fat. 3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Return skillet to medium heat. Add fennel and shallots; season with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and sauté until caramelized and soft. Add reserved duck fat, if needed. 4. Return duck legs to the pan and nestle, skin-side up, into the vegetables. Arrange 3 thyme sprigs around the duck. Pour chicken broth around the duck legs. Bring to a boil, then cover and cook in the oven for 30 minutes. 5. Reduce heat to 325°F and cook for another 30-45 minutes, until duck is tender. Before serving, garnish with the leaves of the remaining sprig of fresh thyme.

www.fleishigs.com


SUKKOT FEAST

Toasted Garlic Sourdough Combine ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 finely minced garlic cloves, the leaves of 2 sprigs fresh thyme and 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Brush over bread and grill or toast for 3-4 minutes per side.

Farro

I N STA N T P OT: Combine 1

cup pearled farro, 1½ cups

S H I F R A’S T I PS : When planning a menu, you don’t need to include many complex foods. In fact, you may want to consider balancing the more involved dishes with some simpler ones, which will make your life easier. For example, Naftali’s full-flavored braised short ribs pack such a punch, you only need a vegetable purée, fresh greens or a hearty grain, like farro, to accompany it.

water and 1 teaspoon kosher

Either of these no-fuss techniques result in perfect farro every time and are perfect for those days when you are juggling a lot of cooking at once.

Bring to a boil, then simmer

salt. Cook on low pressure for 15 minutes. STOV E TO P: Combine 1 cup

pearled farro, 2 cups water and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain. SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

97


SUKKOT FEAST

Steak Salad with Beef Bacon and Salt-Roasted Potatoes Serves: 6

The combination of beef bacon and potatoes is magical. Salt-roasting fingerling potatoes results in the most amazing texture. The warm, lemony, bacon-infused dressing creates the best potato salad you’ll ever have. Top with sliced London broil for a full meal. 8 1 2 4 1

slices beef bacon bunch scallions tablespoons olive oil cups arugula or baby kale Lemony Beef Bacon Vinaigrette (recipe follows) Salt-Roasted Potatoes (recipe follows) bunch fresh parsley Grilled skirt steak (recipe follows), sliced Pickled Onions (recipe follows)

1. Add beef bacon to a cool pan over medium-high heat. Cook for 4 minutes or until beef bacon starts to crisp. Flip and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Let cool. Reserve fat for vinaigrette. 98

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

2. Toss scallions with olive oil. Grill until charred. 3. Toss arugula with a few spoonfuls of vinaigrette, then separately toss potatoes with remaining vinaigrette. 4. Layer salad by arranging charred scallions on the bottom of a platter, then top with parsley and dressed arugula. Top with potatoes, beef bacon and sliced steak, if desired. Top with pickled onions.

Lemony Beef Bacon Vinaigrette Whisk 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, reserved beef bacon fat (about 2 tablespoons) and the juice of 4 lemons. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

Salt-Roasted Potatoes N OT E : To reuse the salt, transfer it to a Ziploc bag and use it the next time you want to cook potatoes using this method.

salt to create a ½-inch layer on the bottom of the dish. Nestle 5½ pounds fingerling potatoes in a single layer over the salt. Slice the heads off 2 heads of garlic and place into the salt, cut side up. Add 10 sprigs fresh thyme and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Cover pan tightly with foil and cook until fork tender, 45-60 minutes.

Grilled Skirt Steak Soak 2 pounds skirt steak in ice cold water for 1 hour. Drain and pat dry. Heat 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil in a sauté pan or grill pan over high heat. Sear steak for 5-6 minutes per side. Let rest for 10 minutes. Serve with a sprinkle of Maldon salt.

Pickled Onions Mix 1 thinly sliced red onion, ⅓ cup red wine, ⅓ cup red wine vinegar, 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt and 1 ½ teaspoons sugar. Let marinate at least 30 minutes before serving.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Fill a 2-quart baking dish with enough Diamond Crystal kosher www.fleishigs.com


SUKKOT FEAST

Short Rib Mole Serves: 8

By: Naftali Hanau

Mole is a rich, chili-based Mexican sauce that is traditionally made with cocoa. This version uses flanken, offering the familiar braised texture, coupled with the intense flavors of mole. 1 2 1 5 ¼ 1 5 ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ ⅛ 2 3 3 2

dried chipotle chili pepper dried Ancho chili peppers dried Anaheim or other hot chili (optional) pounds plate flanken or English short ribs, at room temperature Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper cup grapeseed oil, divided tablespoon cumin teaspoons paprika teaspoon dried lemongrass teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon dried cloves medium onions, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoons cocoa powder tablespoons tomato paste

1

1

¼ ¼

quart chicken or vegetable broth, divided (14-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes cup golden raisins cup chopped parsley Spicy Gremolata (recipe follows)

1. Remove seeds from chilis and soak in hot water for at least 30 minutes. Remove and finely chop. Discard soaking liquid. 2. Pat flanken dry with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper on all sides. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and, working in batches, sear flanken until golden, about 2 minutes per side. 4. Combine cumin, paprika, dried lemongrass, cinnamon, allspice, ginger and cloves. Set aside. 5. Preheat oven to 300°F. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the Dutch oven and add chilis and spice mix. Sauté for about 1 minute to activate the spices. Add onions and sauté for about 10-15 minutes, until softened, adding more oil if needed.

6. Add garlic and cocoa powder and cook for 1 more minute. Add tomato paste and sauté for 30-45 seconds, until paste begins to caramelize. 7. Pour in 1 cup broth, using a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits. Lower heat and return meat to the pan. Add tomatoes, raisins and the remaining 3 cups broth. Cover pot and braise in the oven for about 1-2 hours, until meat is fork tender. To serve, top with fresh parsley and gremolata. M A K E I N A DVA N C E : This dish is best made a day in advance, just refrigerate meat separately from the sauce. Before serving, skim off the fat. Nestle meat in the sauce and reheat in a low oven, covered, for about 45 minutes. Alternatively, simmer over a low fire until warmed through.

Spicy Gremolata Carefully remove the peel and pith from 2 lemons and cut into segments. Finely dice segments and toss with 1 minced seeded jalapeño and 1 teaspoon kosher salt.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

99


L'CHAIM

HERZOG SPECIAL RESERVE METHODE CHAMPENOISE C H A R D O N N AY Herzog’s first Champagnestyle wine is a delightful way to celebrate Simchas Torah. The balanced lemony and yeasty notes coupled with mouthwatering acidity and sharp bubbles make it the perfect white for a light lunch.

100

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

NANA TETHYS 2019 Nana is a boutique winery located in Israel’s Negev Desert near Mitzpe Rimon. The mostly women-run estate grows high-quality grapes with innovative technology and produces, among other Tethys, a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend that delivers unique herbaceous notes. It’s a lovely wine to sip alongside a hearty beef stew.

C H ÂT E A U C L A R K E LISTRAC-MÉDOC 2018 Elegant, complex and concentrated, this wine can be put away for 15-20 years, though it’s quite approachable and enjoyable now. It’s an excellent pairing for a holiday roast.

www.fleishigs.com


L'CHAIM

VITKIN

RA ZI’EL SYRAH-

GEWURZTRAMINER 2018

CARIGNAN 2018

This Gewurz is one of my favorite white wines and possesses all the typical characteristics of this variety. However, unlike most, it’s dry and pairs well with salads, roasted chicken and many lighter dishes.

Razi’el is a new winery that is owned and operated by the Ben Zaken family of Domaine du Castel. This Mediterranean wine was awarded 97 points by wine critic James Suckling, the highest ever for an Israeli wine. Bold, refined and elegant at the same time, it has savory, earthy and spicy notes that blend together harmoniously. It’s another perfect choice for a holiday roast.

BA-DEE-YA, DANCING IN SEPTEMBER BY: GABRIEL GELLER

Almost every year, there is a bit of a dilemma around the wines to choose for Sukkos meals. When it falls out at the end of September or in October, it can be quite chilly on the East Coast. This year, however, Succos is in mid-September, which means it will likely still be warm, especially for the daytime meals. My suggestion is to plan ahead and serve heavier meals at night to pair with full-bodied red wines. The daytime meals are a good opportunity for lighter food and refreshing whites and rosés. Here is a selection of delicious wines to enjoy over Sukkos.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

101




Tiles from TileBar tilebar.com | @tilebar

SOMETHING SWEET

Brûléed Banana Bourbon Bundt Cake Bananas can be a pretty polarizing ingredient, but if you enjoy bananas, you will love this cake. It has the moist texture that you love from a banana cake, with tons of rich bourbon flavor. The brûlée element takes it to a whole new level! N OT E : If you don’t have a kitchen torch, skip the brûlée step and make a bourbon glaze instead (recipe follows). However, don’t do both or the cake will be far too sweet. FO R T H E CA K E :

1

cup mashed bananas (from 2-3 overripe bananas) 3 eggs ¾ cup oil ¾ cup sugar ¾ cup brown sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided ¾ cup bourbon ⅓ cup non-dairy milk FO R T H E B RÛ L É E :

½ 2

cup sugar tablespoons bourbon

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a Bundt pan and set aside. 2. For the cake, whisk bananas, eggs and oil until combined. Add sugar, brown sugar, vanilla, baking powder, baking soda and salt and whisk until combined. 3. Add 1 cup flour, then bourbon, milk and remaining 1 cup flour, whisking between additions, until just incorporated. Pour batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. 4. For the brûlée, mix sugar and bourbon and spread over the entire cake. Use a kitchen torch to brûlée the coating until caramelized. 5. Alternatively, drizzle with bourbon glaze (recipe follows) once cooled, if desired (see note).

104

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SOMETHING SWEET

Bourbon Glaze Mix 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon maple syrup, 1 tablespoon bourbon, 1 tablespoon oil, 2-3 teaspoons boiling water and 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract. Drizzle over cooled cake.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

105


SOMETHING SWEET

106

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SOMETHING SWEET

Vanilla Praline Bundt Cake Praline paste, the magical combination of hazelnuts and sugar, is a favorite ingredient of mine for baking. It adds richness and a delicious depth of flavor to all kinds of desserts. This incredibly moist Bundt cake is packed with praline flavor and best of all, is easy to make. FO R T H E CA K E :

¾ cup hazelnut praline paste 5 eggs ½ cup oil ¾ cup brown sugar ¼ cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 (3.2-ounce) package instant vanilla pudding mix 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1 cup non-dairy milk, divided FO R T H E P R A L I N E G L A Z E :

2 2 1 1

tablespoons hazelnut praline paste tablespoons boiling water cup confectioners’ sugar tablespoon light corn syrup

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a Bundt pan and set aside. 2. For the cake, whisk praline paste and eggs until mostly combined. Add oil, brown sugar and sugar and whisk well until incorporated and creamy. Add baking soda, baking powder, salt, vanilla extract and vanilla pudding mix. Whisk to combine. 3. Add 1 cup flour, ½ cup milk, then remaining 1 cup flour and ½ cup milk, whisking between additions, until just incorporated. Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. Let cool completely before glazing. 4. For the praline glaze, mix praline paste and boiling water until incorporated. Add confectioners’ sugar and corn syrup and stir until smooth. If glaze is too thick, add more water, 1 teaspoon at a time, to reach desired consistency. Drizzle over cooled cake. SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

107


SOMETHING SWEET

Marbled Peanut Butter and Jelly Bundt Cake If you’re nostalgic about the flavors of a PB&J, you’re going to go nuts (pardon the pun!) over this marbled Bundt cake, which has the flavors of peanut butter and jelly swirled throughout. N OT E : Feel free to substitute the peanut butter for any nut or soy butter. FO R T H E CA K E :

5 eggs ¾ cup oil 1 cup sugar ½ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups flour, divided 1 cup non-dairy milk, divided ½ cup creamy peanut butter ½ cup strawberry jam ½ teaspoon strawberry extract or 1-2 drops red food coloring (optional) FO R T H E P E A N U T B U T T E R G L A Z E :

1 2 2 ½

cup confectioners’ sugar tablespoons creamy peanut butter tablespoons warm water teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a Bundt pan and set aside. For the cake, whisk eggs, oil, sugar, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, vanilla and salt until incorporated and creamy. Add 1 cup flour, then ½ cup milk and remaining 1 cup flour, whisking between additions, until just incorporated. 2. Pour half the batter into another bowl. Add peanut butter and remaining ½ cup milk to one bowl and stir until smooth. Add strawberry jam and strawberry extract (if desired) to the other bowl and stir until smooth. 3. Spoon alternating spoonfuls of peanut butter and strawberry batter into the prepared pan to marble them together. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. Let cool completely before glazing. 4. For the glaze, mix ingredients together until smooth. Drizzle over cooled cake. M A K E I N A DVA N C E : All of these cakes can be wrapped well with plastic wrap and frozen for up to 1 month. Glazes should be added once thawed, before serving.

108

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


SOMETHING SWEET

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

109


SOMETHING SWEET

YOUR BUNDT QUESTIONS, ANSWERED

Q: What kind of Bundt pan do you recommend?

PASCAL SOLVES ALL YOUR COMPLICATED COOKING EQUATIONS.

The shape of the pan will also affect the cake and the ease of releasing it from the pan. While some of the funkier Bundt pans are really cool, the NordicWare original Bundt pan is the most foolproof when it comes to releasing the cake. My advice to bakers who are new or notyet-confident in Bundt cake baking is to start with an original Bundt pan, and once mastered, graduate to new shapes.

BUNDT CAKES ARE NOTORIOUS FOR KITCHEN FAILURES, BUT THEY DON’T HAVE TO BE! WE TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO PICK MIRIAM PASCAL COHEN’S BRAIN ON ALL THINGS BUNDT (SHE IS THE EXPERT AFTER ALL!), THOUGH MUCH OF THE ADVICE BELOW CAN BE APPLIED TO OTHER TYPES OF CAKES AS WELL.

110

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

A: All bundt pans are not created equal! The quality of the pan and the nonstick coating will have a big impact on your finished Bundt cake. My favorite Bundt pans are made by NordicWare.

Q: What’s the best way to grease a Bundt pan? Even when I use nonstick spray it still sticks. A: Firstly, many people don’t grease the pan well enough. Don’t just give it a quick spray, rather give it a good, long spray. Pay special attention to areas that might be overlooked, particularly the inner tube of the pan and any nooks and crannies the pan might have. Secondly, for the best and most foolproof results, I recommend greasing and flouring the Bundt pan, instead of just greasing it. While there are baking sprays that contain flour, I find that they can damage the pan’s nonstick coating, so I prefer to add the flour myself. It’s really simple — after greasing the Bundt pan well, sprinkle 1-2 teaspoons of flour over the pan. Place the pan on its side, then tap to disperse the flour throughout, rotating and tapping until flour is evenly distributed. Don’t use too much flour (you can always add more if necessary) or you’ll end up with clumps of flour on the outside of the cake.

Q: What can I do to prevent my Bundt cake from coming out dry? A: There are a number of things that can cause a cake to come out dry:

OV E R B A K I N G : Overbaking a cake by even a few minutes can cause it to dry out. If the top feels set and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, pull the cake out immediately. OV E N T E M P E R AT U R E : If your cakes are consistently coming out too dry, consider purchasing an oven thermometer to check your actual oven temperature. They run about $5-$10 and will help ensure that your oven is actually at the temperature it’s set to. M E AS U R E M E N T S : The most foolproof way to measure ingredients in baking is by weight, but that’s not so practical for most home cooks. Without weighing ingredients, the best way to measure flour is to whisk it lightly, then measure it without packing it. Flour that’s too densely packed can have a negative impact on a cake. When filling the measuring cup, use a knife or other straight-edged item to level off the flour — even just a little too much flour in the measuring cup can make a big difference to the cake’s texture.

Q: How can I fix a Bundt cake that came out dry? A: The best way to add moisture to a dry cake is to soak it in a simple syrup. To make simple syrup, stir together equal parts boiling water and sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved, then drizzle syrup over the cake. I find it easiest to do this with a plastic squeeze bottle. If the cake is very dense, you can poke small holes using a toothpick or skewer to help the syrup absorb into the cake.

Q: What can I do with a cake that fell apart when taking it out of the pan? A: The simplest answer is always a trifle! Crumble the cake and layer it with mousse, whipped cream, fresh fruit and any other dessert elements you choose. If you’re looking to do something more with a failed cake, try making cake croutons — cut the cake into small cubes, then bake at 350°F for 10-20 minutes (depending on the texture and size of the cubes), until crispy. Serve with ice cream, sorbet or fruit salad.

www.fleishigs.com


SOMETHING SWEET

Q: When is the best time to transfer a Bundt cake from the pan?

nonstick coating will start to wear off. Try purchasing a new Bundt pan and that should fix the problem!

can continue glazing. Another tip is to never glaze a cake that isn’t fully cool, as the glaze will melt right into the cake.

A: The ideal time to transfer a cake from the pan is while it’s partially cooled (so it has time to set), but still somewhat warm. Once it’s completely cooled, it will be more stiff and harder to remove. The sweet spot is generally 15 minutes after the cake comes out of the oven.

Q: Lately my cakes are coming out really dense. Any idea why this is happening?

Q: What’s the best way to glaze my cake?

Q: How can I transfer my Bundt cake out of the pan successfully? A: I created a foolproof guide for my first cookbook, Something Sweet, which includes a ton of Bundt cake recipes. Thousands of readers have told me that it transformed their Bundt baking and I’m confident it will work for you too. If you have used the correct pan, greased and floured liberally and waited until the cake was somewhat cool, you’re almost there! The next step is to loosen the cake from the pan and after testing many different tools, I came to the conclusion that the best is a semi-flexible plastic knife. Run the knife between the cake and the pan, letting the knife curve along the exterior of the cake and along the tube to loosen the bottom as well. Do this every half inch to an inch along the outside of the cake. Before flipping the cake over onto a serving dish, place your hand on the top. When you flip it, you should feel whether the cake is starting to slip out. If not, don’t bang it upside down to force it out; this will almost guarantee that the cake will break. Instead, pay attention to which area of the cake is still sticking. Flip it back over and run the knife again to loosen that area of the cake. Repeat as necessary.

Q: My cakes used to come out of the pan seamlessly, but lately they keep sticking. What’s going on? A: If this is a new problem, especially with an older cake pan, the culprit may likely be the nonstick coating on the pan. Over time and with use, the

A: If this is a new problem, but you’re making the same recipe in the same manner, it’s likely an issue with your leavening agents. Baking powder usually lasts 6-12 months, but it’s a good idea to replace it more frequently, especially if cakes are coming out on the denser side. Baking soda will also last for about one year, though it loses potency over time, so change it sooner. Old baking soda that is no longer good for baking can still be used for cleaning, so no need to discard it.

Q: Can I bake a Bundt cake recipe in a 9x13-inch pan? Or vice versa? A: While I would hesitate to give a blanket “yes” or “no” answer, in most cases, it will work, but with adjustments to the baking time. Because of the tube in the center, Bundt cakes often need less time than a 9x13-inch cake. Check the cake periodically and test with a toothpick to verify doneness. My general advice for making changes to a recipe is to try it as written first, then experiment with adaptations.

Use a spoon, fork or whisk to drizzle glaze over a cake. My preference is using a piping bag with a hole cut from the bottom (a Ziploc bag works as well). This gives more control over the drizzling and yields a picture-perfect cake every time.

Q: Do I need to use an electric mixer for my Bundt cake? A: Not at all! If your recipe calls for beating egg whites or another ingredient until stiff, definitely use an electric mixer. Otherwise, in most cases, a whisk is a perfect tool to use instead.

Q: Which mixer attachment should I use for making a Bundt cake? A: While you don’t need to use an electric mixer to make most Bundt cakes, make sure to choose the correct attachment if you are using one. My go-to attachment for cakes (that don’t require whipping or beating) is the paddle attachment, which I use for cookies as well. The whisk attachment can work for cake too.

Q: The texture of my glaze never looks right. How can I fix it? A: With a standard confectioners’ sugar glaze, the tiniest variance in quantity of liquid will make a huge impact on the texture of the glaze. The trick for a nice glaze is to make sure it has the thickest possible texture, while still thin enough to drizzle. If the glaze is too thin, add more confectioners’ sugar to thicken it up. If you’re not sure that the texture is right, test it by drizzling a small amount on the cake. If it rolls down and seems to melt into the cake or if it pools down at the bottom, it’s too thin — correct it by adding more confectioners’ sugar. If it holds its shape, it’s perfect and you

Miriam Pascal Cohen is a food blogger, brand ambassador, recipe developer and bestselling cookbook author of three Artscroll cookbooks — Something Sweet, Real Life Kosher Cooking and More Real Life Kosher Cooking. Miriam connects with her large following over simple, yet delicious, cooking. Follow Miriam on Instagram @overtimecook or check out her website overtimecook.com.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

111


112

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


FLEISHIGS X AJ MADISON COOKBOOK LAUNCH EVENT

B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y: M E M U S H A M I T SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

113


COOKBOOK

new cookbook, Good Food, Fleishigs threw a fun, interactive cookbook launch party at AJ Madison’s headquarters in Brooklyn, NY. Sina demonstrated some of her favorite recipes from the book, took questions from attendees and signed cookbooks. It was a fun night out of interacting and mingling. Jaqueline Elbaz catered the event and showcased 12 different recipes from the cookbook, including chicken tagine, za’atar salmon with pomegranate gremolata, fish keftas and meat arayes. The event was part of Fleishigs’ Culinary School series in collaboration with AJ Madison and appliance super powers Wolf, SubZero & Cove. The event gave readers an opportunity to come face-to-face with the latest kitchen appliances. (For more information visit ajmadison.com or visit their showroom at your convenience.) As with all Fleishigs events, each attendee went home with a swag bag that included the cookbook, Grow & Behold beef jerky, Bartenura Blue, Ossie’s fish seasoning and more — all nestled in a highquality canvas Fleishigs tote bag. Watch your email inbox for more amazing Fleishigs events and email us (hello@fleishigs. com) to share the city in which you would like to see our next event. TO CELEBRATE SINA MIZRAHI’S

The event was held at AJ Madison's premier showroom in Brooklyn, NY.

Za'atar Salmon with Pomegranate Gremolata (recipe page 118), one of the dishes prepared by caterer Jacqueline Elbaz (@stuffffed) for the event.

114

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


Guests of the public event enjoyed mingling and networking. Each paid ticket received a high-quality canvas tote that included a copy of Sina's cookbook among other swag.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

115


COOKBOOK

SINA MIZRAHI, Israeli-born and Canadian-bred, comes from a line of great cooks with an incredibly rich Sephardic background. Her popular blog, Gather a Table, became a place where she showcased her recipes, tablescapes and her moves from Los Angeles to Jerusalem and then onto New Jersey, where she currently resides with her family.

ASIDE FROM HER popular meal prep e-book (available for purchase on gatheratable. com), Sina is now the newly published author of Good Food, a cookbook inspired by her roots and the places she has lived and visited. From simple weeknight recipes that every busy parent needs to the recipes that require steps and patience (and ideally a Moroccan mother or grandmother a phone call away!), Sina truly weaves her heritage and love of food into each page. Every recipe has a story and, through this, Sina takes her readers on a journey through the inspiration behind each one. The robust cookbook begins with a Bread chapter, which features specialties like Jerusalem Bagel and Barbari Bread. In the Flavor Bombs & Salatim chapter, Sina focuses on recipes that will enhance your dishes like Toum, a creamy Lebanese garlic sauce, Amba-Pickled Kohlrabi, Moroccan Carrots, Hilbeh, a spicy Yemenite dip, and Techina, of course. In the Chicken chapter, you can find many simple dishes like Monday’s Grilled Chicken and Chipotle Chicken Tacos, as well as more involved recipes such as Chicken Tagine, Stuffed Onions in Pomegranate Sauce and Pastilla, a Moroccan delicacy. In the Meat chapter, find the ever-popular Arayes and a onepot Cozy Meat Pasta that screams busy weeknight. Recipes like Fricassée, a Tunisian tuna sandwich (with fluffy homemade fried rolls!) and Moroccan Fried Sole with

116

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

Tesremela Sauce in the Fish chapter will make your mouth water. In the Veg/Dairy chapter, the recipes span from hearty soups like Roasted Tomato Soup with Rice and stellar sides like Mejadara to dairy mains like Charred Eggplant Bourekas and Kadé, a Kurdish cheese pastry. The Sweets chapter ends off the book with simple delights like Skillet Brownie and Any Fruit Crisp, but the ethnic delicacies like Moroccan Sfinj (fried dough), Israeli Sachlav and Baklava truly stand out. Beyond the recipes, Sina includes a wealth of resources including 29 tips and tricks to promote success in the kitchen, a primer of over 20 favorite spices and herbs, as well as nine homemade spice blends. Additionally, Sina includes Instant Pot adaptation to many recipes, making them even easier to execute. Sina’s rustic and down-home aesthetic is evidenced by the styling and photography (which she did herself ). While the book is laden with dozens of recipes inspired by Sina’s Sephardic background, there are many other family- and kid-friendly recipes that run the cultural gamut. This book would delight home cooks of any level, particularly those who appreciate Middle Eastern cuisine and ingredients and have the desire to experiment and perhaps think a bit outside the box. Sina executed Good Food with a palpable passion, proving that one doesn’t have to work too hard to make good food.

www.fleishigs.com


COOKBOOK

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

117


Reprinted with permission from Good Food by Sina Mizrahi, copyright ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications, LTD COOKBOOK

Za’atar Salmon with Pomegranate Gremolata Serves 4

When my kids were little (not very long ago), the afternoons stretched out and I’d join them on the floor — building Lego towers and erecting forts. I miss that stage more than I wished for it to pass. (Take note, young mothers, it flies by.) Play time was all day and when dinner hour came along, I turned to easy, minimal recipes. This za’atar fish is nothing more than sprinkling some spices before the fish gets a short roast. We would eat it straight from the pan, flaking pieces of fish with our forks, swooping it into our mouths, like they were jet planes. The gremolata is a beautiful, fruity topping that adds brightness and contrast. I save it for when I’m particular about presentation. More often than not, I skip it, because some (many?) days, simplicity wins. SA L M O N

1 2 1 1 1 ½

(2-lb) center-cut salmon fillet Tbsp extra virgin olive oil Tbsp za’atar spice tsp granulated garlic tsp sea salt tsp black pepper

P O M EG R A N AT E G R E M O L ATA

1 ¼ 2 1 2 ½

cup parsley leaves, finely chopped cup pomegranate seeds cloves garlic, minced Tbsp finely chopped roasted, unsalted pistachios tsp lemon zest or chopped preserved lemon rind tsp flaky salt, such as Maldon

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Place salmon on prepared baking sheet. In a small bowl, combine oil and spices. Pat onto fish; roast for 12-15 minutes, or until the edges are browned and crisp and the fish flakes easily. 3. Prepare the gremolata. In a small bowl, toss together parsley, pomegranate seeds, garlic, pistachios, lemon rind, and salt. 4. Top salmon with gremolata and serve. T RY T H I S

Substitute za'atar with 1 Tbsp hawaij + 2 Tbsp maple syrup. N OT E

Za’atar is a blend that has many adaptations; look for one with hyssop leaves and sumac. 118

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


COOKBOOK Reprinted with permission from Good Food by Sina Mizrahi, copyright ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications, LTD

Fish Keftas Techina Platter Serves 6

In my opinion, fish keftas stand on their own vis-à-vis their meat counterpart. The tender, mild flavor of fish is a good backdrop for stand-out flavors. And here it gets them all. I serve them over a bed of techina, drizzle on a good dose of amba, and sprinkle with pine nuts; the presentation is striking even when simple. Warm pita is a must! E D I TO R'S N OT E : Find Sina's recipe

for preserved lemons on page 42 of Good Food or use store bought (such as Mina).

2 1 1 ½ ½ 1 ½ 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ 1 1 2

cloves garlic, minced small onion, peeled wedge preserved lemon rind, rinsed, or 1 tsp lemon zest cup parsley leaves cup cilantro leaves lb ground fish (your choice) cup breadcrumbs egg, lightly beaten tsp ground coriander tsp sea salt tsp cumin tsp sumac tsp black pepper Tbsp extra virgin olive oil Oil, for frying cup prepared techina, for serving Amba, for serving Tbsp roasted pine nuts, for garnish Chopped parsley, for garnish

1. In a chopper, process garlic, onion, preserved lemon, parsley, and cilantro until finely minced. In a mixing bowl, combine ground fish, herb mixture, breadcrumbs, and egg. Season with ground coriander, salt, cumin, sumac, pepper, and olive oil; knead together. With oiled hands, shape fish mixture into 3-inch kefta logs. Makes roughly 20 pieces. Rest in the fridge to firm and allow flavors to meld; 30 minutes. 2. Heat oven to 375°F. 3. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat; add 3 tablespoons oil. Brush keftas with oil; pan fry until golden, 2 minutes per side. Transfer skillet to the oven for 6 minutes until cooked through and temperature registers at 140°F. 4. To serve, spoon techina onto a platter, arrange fish keftas over, and drizzle with amba; garnish with pine nuts and parsley. SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

119




122

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


TRAVEL

ALWAYS VIEWED Mexico City as an annoying stopover on the way to my desired South American destinations and never paid it much attention. I had heard that it wasn’t the safest city and always assumed there wasn’t much to do there. That was until my husband visited Mexico City while we were dating and, while I still wasn’t convinced, we decided to travel there together one day. Fast forward to Summer 2021. My husband and I packed up our Brooklyn apartment and put everything in storage. We both have the ability to work remotely, so we decided on an extended trip, first to Mexico City, then to Peru. We stayed in Polanco, Mexico City for three weeks and I made it my mission to try out every kosher restaurant that I could in that time frame. After a few weeks of exploring, my view has completely changed and I’m here to change yours. Mexico City is a kosher food paradise and, beyond that, there is so much exploring to do! One of the reasons I fell in love with Mexico City is for the many trees that turned this concrete jungle into an urban forest. To combat the pollution problem, millions of trees were planted — everywhere you go, it's green. It’s also a city teeming with life. When they say New York City is a city that never sleeps, it’s a joke. Mexico City’s dinner rush doesn't start until 9 PM and restaurants and bars remain open well past midnight.

B Y: G I L A B A R D - W I G D O R

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

123


TRAVEL

Transportation It’s very easy to get around in Mexico City — Ubers are really affordable, similar to New York City subway prices. To get around Polanco, prepare to spend $2$3 per ride. We paid $17 to get from the airport to Polanco, which is a 40 minute ride. There's also a ride sharing app called Beat (sometimes cheaper than Uber), known for their Teslas, which is a fun way to be driven around. There is obviously a public transportation system, which is the cheapest, but we didn’t utilize it. There are several bike systems — I recommend using Dezba to rent a bike from the city for $5/month for 45 minutes per ride and 1 peso per minute thereafter. (Currently, the exchange rate is 1 Mexican peso = .05 American dollar.) In Polanco, there are designated streets with an entire car-width lane reserved for cyclists and you can easily use Google Maps.

Safety As far as safety, the majority of the stories you hear are just that — stories. Although taking a wrong turn in some neighborhoods at night can lead to trouble, you can say the same thing about parts of Chicago, New York City, Los Angeles or any major city in the United States. We found that the Jewish quarters of Mexico City are absolutely gorgeous and felt really safe. In fact, the Jewish community has a good relationship with the government and formed an organization to ensure the safety of the Jewish communities. There are patrol cops on every other corner and private security in front of most buildings. Even in Centro Mexico, where the crowds are large, there are cops patrolling every corner and you feel a sense of security when walking down the avenues. If you’re going to be out late, the security tends to dissipate in some areas, so take an Uber and be aware of your surroundings.

Jewish Communities Mexico City is the largest city in North America — bigger than New York City, Los Angeles and Toronto. There are four main areas with Jewish communities: Polanco, Tecamachalco, Bosques and Interlomas. When choosing where to stay, pick from these places. I highly recommend Polanco — it’s not as residential and has a thriving posh neighborhood with beautiful condo buildings, gorgeous malls, museums and parks. It’s also home to some really good kosher restaurants. Don’t worry, you can always Uber over to the next neighborhood to explore the kosher options there. Interior view of the historic Ashkenazi synagogue Nidje Israel, also known as Justo Sierra

124

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com



TRAVEL

Explore Centro Historico Start by Palacio de Bellas Artes and then walk down Avenue 5 de Mayo to Palacio Nacional. On the avenue there are a bunch of shops and street entertainers, which is a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Palacio de Bellas Artes is a hall and museum featuring murals by Diego Rivera and other notable artists. We didn’t feel like waiting in line to go in, but rumors say it's beautiful! There are also a ton of museums to check out, such as the Frida Kahlo Museum, Museo Soumaya and Museo Nacional de Antropología, to name a few.

Shul Tour I can write a whole article on this alone. Mexico City is so full of Jewish life! I was in awe of the JCCs and shuls we visited. I met a local named Yaakov on Instagram who offered to take us around. The center that stood out to me the most was Centro Maguen David. It has an indoor skate rink, fully kosher Starbucks, beautiful shul, kosher supermarket, wedding hall, soccer field and artwork everywhere. I recommend hiring someone to take you around, so you can see as many of these shuls and JCCs as possible. It made me feel so proud to be Jewish and I was so impressed with what the Jewish communities built here.

Experience a Lucha Libre Match Lucha Libre is a Mexican-style wrestling match that is comparable to WWE, but with way more personality and drama. This was quite an experience, one I’d describe as part wrestling, part gymnastics and part comedy! We had no idea what was going 126

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

on, but had a good time shouting random things and picking champions to root for. You can buy tickets on Ticketmaster. We paid for "the best seats" at $15 USD. The seats are socially distanced.

Explore Xochimilco Famous for its canals, this neighborhood is the last remnant of a vast water transport

system built by the Aztecs. Go for a boat ride, grab a beer and enjoy the view.

Go to the Chapultepec Park This is the second largest city park in Latin America. It has a castle, zoo, botanic garden, museums, roller coaster, market, lake and more. It receives an estimated 15 million visitors per year. www.fleishigs.com


WHAT TO DO

TRAVEL

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

127



TRAVEL

If you’re not really a city person and want to explore nature, don’t worry — there are so many places to explore outside of Mexico City.

Teotihuacán

Tepoztlán

Teotihuacán is an ancient Mesoamerican city of pyramids northeast of Mexico City. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. You can get there by bus, car or hot air balloon!

Tepoztlán is a village 1½ hours away from Mexico City and you can travel there via coach bus from Tazqueno bus terminal; it’s comfortable and costs about $6 per person. This mountain town is colorful and culturally rich with beautiful views. We had a peaceful Shabbat in an Airbnb with a great view for about $60 per night. The town square has a market where you can watch vendors make tortillas from scratch, along with many other cool vendors and shops to peruse and experience. N OT E : Most vendors do not accept credit cards here, so be sure to bring some pesos.

Go to Parque Lincoln on a Thursday Night Walk through Avenue Presidente Masaryk on a Thursday night towards Parque Lincoln. There are street musicians, outdoor seating for bars, fairy lights and a whole lot of charm! It’s a vibe. We got drinks and had a nice night. On the map it literally looks like a martini glass. Follow the noise — you can’t miss it. Even though there are so many bars and restaurants, tables fill up quickly, so go before 8 PM if you want drinks.

Grutas de Tolantongo Tolantongo is famous for its many hot pools, known as chapoteaderos. These semicircular structures are built to catch the hot waters flowing from the valley walls. Relax in the pools while enjoying the view of the green valley. Here you can find sporting activities like hiking, climbing, caving, swimming and ziplining. It’s 4 hours away from Mexico City. SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

129


TRAVEL

WHERE TO EAT We visited over 25 kosher restaurants and eateries — too many to list them all here, so visit my website kosherfoodworld.com for more. I divided the list by three most popular kosher neighborhoods; Polanco, Bosques and Tecamachalco. *NOTE: I don’t recommend ordering steak in the kosher restaurants in Mexico City. Most of it is imported, so it can be mediocre. There are some places where the meat is good, so take my recommendations below for the best dishes.

Auguri Trattoria I put this at the top of the list for the innovative dishes and excellent service. Auguri is owned by a Venezuelan-Turkish native whose restaurant captures the essence of fine dining and elegance one would be accustomed to in a high-end Italian restaurant. The delicious cocktails are beautifully presented and made in front of you from a bar cart. The chicken dynamite appetizer was creamy, crispy and tender all at once. The coconut rice was so simple, yet so good. There are three menus — an Italian one, a burger house one and a Chinese menu named Bamboo. I highly recommend the Bamboo menu.

POLANCO Quesadillas Ascension This hole-in-the-wall joint is not pretty at all, but the food is super tasty — it’s an incredible opportunity to try some authentic Mexican cuisine. The quesadillas (obviously), which are stuffed with cheese and a variety of other options. I recommend the mushroom or bean quesadillas. The tamales, cooked within a corn husk or banana leaf, are definitely an experience. The fillings vary. I highly recommend the sweet plantains drizzled with caramel and cinnamon for an excellent dessert. It's also incredibly cheap and you can get a lot for just $10. Bring cash, they don't take credit cards here.

Wendy’s Kosher Bakery We made a quick stop at this bakery/ grocery store for the pastries. We tried the halva rugguleh and they were delicious.

Emet Kosher Grocery Store Shop here for all your kosher grocery needs. They have multiple locations, but we went to the one in Polanco. All neighborhoods have local grocery stores you can rely on if you’d like to make your own food.

Sinai Kosher Bakery Here you can find a meat café, dairy café and a small grocery store with a meat takeout counter. We ordered a panini, pasta and a few drinks. Everything was tasty and well-priced.

130

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


From

to your

Table! Available Online!

ROSH HASHANA

& SUKKOS

Menu

WWW.BATYASKITCHEN.COM

Gaucho Grill I loved the interior of this Argentianian-style restaurant, which is ideal for meat lovers. There is a good selection of parilla (Latin American grill) and sushi and taco selections. We had a generous selection off the menu, all for under $100.

For a menu please call or text 917-525-FOOD (3663) batyaskitchen@gmail.com


TRAVEL

BOSQUES Tamar | Cocina de Jerusalem This Israeli-style restaurant features dishes from Middle Eastern cuisine. Some of the recipes are passed down from the owner's grandmother. We loved the delicious dishes, cool ambience and excellent value. The Yemenite soup, kibbeh and Moroccan cigars tasted like home. The lahmajin (meat pizza) is made with the owner’s grandmother’s recipe and was the best thing on the menu. We ordered so much food and our bill was only $63.

Dogs Bar This sports bar is a really fun place to spend a Saturday night after Shabbat. They have hookah (just make sure to sit in a smoking section) and serve excellent comfort food. We loved the beef carpaccio, the classic burger and delicious margaritas.

Makura Teppen House Like most hibachi restaurants, be ready for a fun, interactive experience and fresh food. We started off with fried green beans (called “sticky fingers”). We enjoyed watching the chef cook the Japanese chicken and rice on the hibachi.

El Carboncito Kosher We enjoyed some authentic Mexican food, such as tacos (quite spicy, so beware) with an array of sauces. La Churreria is down the block — a great option for dessert.

La Churreria This pareve churro shop was unexpectedly good. This caramel and s’mores churro were delicious!

132

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


TRAVEL

TECAMACHALCO Pan Y Canela

Ajla Gourmet

Sushiteca

The restaurant is located on a terrace in a JCC and the setup is absolutely beautiful. The bread and butter is so basic, but the bread, which is made with cream cheese, is made in-house. We also tried the cheese-stuffed fried olives, which was a hit. It’s served with olive dip. The beet carpaccio, a creative vegetarian rendition of a dish traditionally made with thinly sliced meat, was served with arugula and goat cheese. Everything we ordered was delicious and the service was excellent.

Ajla is a beautiful bakery and lunch spot that serves pastries and pizza. There is another location in Interlomas with a more expanded menu. A local recommended that we try the almond croissant, which did not disappoint. The fact that it was pareve made it even more impressive. We also ordered a babka for Shabbos.

We ordered authentic Mexican food, such as horchata (a blended rice milk drink), pozole (a textured Mexican soup) and chilaquiles de mole (a breakfast-style mole topped with cheese). We also enjoyed flautas (rolled tortillas filled with cheese) and an array of sauces. Overall, this was a great place to try out some dairy Mexican food.

I

Dragon Box This Asian restaurant has popular dishes, such as lo mein, fried rice, egg rolls and stir fry. We ordered takeout and it was quite good.

’m excited for the day when I can return so that I can explore Mexico City even more. I feel as though I only scratched the surface of what this city has to offer. I hope this guide helps you see Mexico City in a new light!

Ranch Burger This small burger joint has simple, tasty burgers for about $8 each. If you’re feeling adventurous, try your burger with a slice of pineapple — apparently they’re known for it!

Gila Bard-Wigdor (Rapoport) is a newly married social media manager from Brooklyn, NY who enjoys traveling the world and working on the go. She started her kosher food and travel blog, kosherfoodworld.com, as a passion project to showcase kosher food and travel from around the world. You can follow her journey on TikTok and Instagram @kosherfoodworld.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

133


THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

Hagafen THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

134

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

The Pioneer of California Kosher Wine

H

AGAFEN CELLARS holds a special place in my heart. When I was visiting California with some friends, driving up and down the coastal highway back in 2007, we decided to tour a kosher winery. I knew relatively little about wine or wineries back then, but I enjoyed learning and experiencing the beautiful views. We made our way up the Silverado Trail in our borrowed car to the tasting room at Hagafen. It was there I had my first sips of the Brut and Pinot Noir, which became two of my favorite wines to this very day. Founded in 1979, with the first commercial vintage sold in 1980, Hagafen Cellars’ head winemaker, Ernie Weir, has been making kosher wine since 1973. He is most likely the kosher winemaker with the most vintages produced in the world. Hagafen Cellars is located in Napa Valley, which is considered to be one of the most premier wine-growing regions globally, particularly in the United States. Hagafen's wines are internationally recognized and used for many occasions at the White House when kosher wines are needed. Hagafen recently celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2019 and aptly released the Winemaker's Reserve 40th Anniversary, a special wine to mark this momentous occasion. Like many winemakers we have discussed in the past, Ernie studied winemaking at UC Davis. He simultaneously accepted a job as vineyard and nursery manager with the prestigious Domaine Chandon, which is one of the subsidiaries of luxury group Moët Hennessy, the parent company of the non-kosher champagne Moët & Chandon. Ernie worked with Chandon until 2002, when Hagefen built their tasting room. Ernie has received many awards and recognition for his well-known wines. Hagafen wines were first served at The White House in 1981 under President Ronald Reagan and have since been served there many times at Chanukah parties, Pesach sedarim and ceremonies honoring Israeli government officials. The wines speak for themselves — Ernie’s

www.fleishigs.com


THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

meticulous care for the vines, grapes and process are obvious from the moment you take the first sip in that tasting room. I have strong associations with Hagafen wines and my true love for wine, especially sparkling wine, I owe to Ernie and his wife Irit. Ernie and Irit have owned the ranch on the Silverado Trail since 1986. The winery did not start out as an estate winery; rather, the grapes were picked and crushed elsewhere before being bottled and shelved. The ranch used to house over 12 acres of Pinot Noir and Chenin Blanc, but the vines were slowly replaced with a grafting method to grow Cabernet Sauvignon. Ernie has a lot of experience growing vines and was able to double the production of the vines using a special process called the double curtain method. The demand for Hagafen's award-winning wines continued to grow. In 2000, the dream took flight when the tasting room and winery were built. This allowed for the production of Hagafen's first-ever estate wines, made from grapes grown by the winery on its property, allowing the winemaker to fully control the production. Currently, Hagafen produces over 100,000 bottles of wine each year. Ernie's approach to winemaking and grape growing is pretty simplistic — let the land do the work and interfere as little as possible. In other words, let nature run its course. "Fine wine starts in the vineyard with careful vineyard management," Ernie shares. "I strive to take maximum advantage of Napa Valley's natural geology and climate to produce the best wine varietals. By using modern family techniques while maintaining a balance of traditional values and land stewardship, I interfere as little as possible with the soil, creating a balance that minimizes erosion and chemical impact.“ The last few years have been challenging along the Silverado Trail, as well as in other areas of wine country in California due to wildfires rapidly spreading and threatening the vineyards. Not only is burning vines a concern, but when neighboring areas burn it can affect the grapes and vines, which compromises the quality and integrity of the delicate product. The Atlas Peak wildfires in 2017 were particularly a tough blow to the vines at Hagafen. Some SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

135


THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

of Hagafen's vineyards were badly affected. However, in 2019, the team was able to replant over 7,000 new Cabernet Sauvignon vines. These new vines should soon be ready for their first harvest. Hagafen offers several lines of wines, a wine club and even virtual tastings thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic. The regular line of wines is offered commercially, which includes many different varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Riesling (my favorite — dry, off-dry and semi-sweet, depending on the year), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, two sparkling wines, Brut and a Rosé Brut. Their wine club (Prix) combines the aforementioned varieties and sometimes includes something special like the Melange or late disgorged Brut (another personal favorite). The winery is dedicated to sustainability and their certified organic estate wines (Wieruszowski Vineyard) conduct beefriendly farming, allowing the local bees to thrive with clean water, variation in vegetation for pollination and without the interference of pesticides. If you haven't yet dipped your toes into the world of Hagafen, there is no better time than now. There are two special wines that were recently released and are very much worth tasting — the Family Vineyard 2019 from the Wieruszowski Vineyard and the 40th Anniversary Winemaker's Reserve 2018. Both blends of primarily Napa Valley estate Cabernet Sauvignon, these wines are a beautiful representation of the Weir family and their dedication to the highest quality Napa Valley wines, which happen to be kosher and mevushal. I'll drink to that! L'chaim!

136

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com



FAMILY DINNERS

138

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


FAMILY DINNERS

Danielle Renov, food blogger and bestselling cookbook author of Peas Love & Carrots, shares two easy, kid-friendly dinners. Beyond her acclaimed cookbook, Danielle is a mother and famously cooks delicious homemade dinners almost every day. The following dinners will be ready before you know it and are flavorful and satisfying — perfect for Chol Hamoed.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

139


FAMILY DINNERS

140

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com


FAMILY DINNERS

Can’t-Believe-It’s-NotFried Fish Serves: 8

Beyond the fact that this is a healthier version of fried fish, no one actually wants to stand over a fire on a busy night. This is the perfect solution — no one will know the difference! Cut the pieces of fish as small as desired for nuggets or sticks. 8 ¼ 2 2 1

fillets skinless red snapper cup mayonnaise tablespoons Dijon mustard Juice of 1 lemon tablespoons Old Bay seasoning cup panko breadcrumbs Nonstick cooking spray Fleishigs Killer Sauce (page 28) or tartar sauce

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet and set aside. 2. Mix mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, Old Bay and lemon juice. Brush tops of the fish fillets with half of the mayonnaise mixture, then sprinkle with half of the panko breadcrumbs. Place fish, breaded side down, on the prepared baking sheet. 3. Brush top sides of each fillet with remaining mayonnaise mixture, then sprinkle with remaining breadcrumbs. 4. Spray with nonstick cooking spray. Cook for 12-15 minutes, until golden and crisp. Serve with Fleishigs Killer Sauce.

One Pot Chicken and P’titim Serves: 4-6

This one pot chicken dish is made with p’titim, also known as Israeli couscous. It’s super easy to prepare and kids love it. N OT E : Any brand of Israeli couscous works, but Osem is the OG. Every brand has slightly different instructions, so follow the quantities on the bag you’re using for the best results.

3 1½ ¼ 1 1

tablespoons oil pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded thinly or sliced into ½-inch pieces cup chicken soup mix, divided tablespoon tomato paste (8.8-ounce) bag Israeli couscous (such as Osem)

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Add chicken and 2 tablespoons chicken soup mix. Sauté for about 4 minutes until chicken is just cooked through. Add tomato paste and sauté for 1 minute. 2. Add Israeli couscous and remaining 2 tablespoons chicken soup mix. Add water and cook per package directions.

SEPTEMBER 2021

Fleishigs

141




CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 28 28 47 49 94 95 96 97 98 98 99 118

Pickled Jalapeños Q Fleishigs Killer Sauce FF Q Soy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette Q Basil Vinaigrette Cider & Amaro Q Marinated Olives Q Pickled Shallots M Q Toasted Garlic Sourdough M Q Lemony Beef Bacon Vinaigrette M Q Pickled Onions M Q Spicy Gremolata Pomegranate Gremolata Q

MEAT & POULTRY 24 24 24 24 24 24 26 28 30 32 47 53 69 82 83 96 96 98 98 99 141

144

Fleishigs

Stovetop Corned Beef M Oven Corned Beef M Slow Cooker Corned Beef M Instant Pot Corned Beef M Sous Vide Corned Beef M Sweet and Tangy Corned Beef FF M Corned Beef Yapchik FF Loaded Tater Tots FF M Corned Beef Unstuffed Cabbage Corned Beef Burnt Ends Steak Salad FF Q Basic Kubbeh Kasha-Stuffed Capons Duck Sausage Pizza Lamb Merguez Meatballs FF Black Garlic Beef Tartare Q Braised Duck Legs with Fennel and Shallots Steak Salad with Beef Bacon and Salt-Roasted Potatoes Grilled Skirt Steak Short Rib Mole One Pot Chicken and P’titim FF Q

SEPTEMBER 2021

FISH 118 Za’atar Salmon with Pomegranate Gremolata FF Q 119 Fish Keftas Techina Platter 141 Can’t-Believe-It’s-Not-Fried Fish FF M Q

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 44 49 57 59 60 67 68 71 95 97 97 98

Crunchy Black Lentil Salad Roasted Okra Salad Israeli-Inspired Butternut Squash Soup Sour Chard Soup Okra Stew (Kubbeh Bamia) Mom’s Kasha FF M Q Hearty Kasha Salad FF M Q Kasha Lo Mein Citrus and Radicchio Salad Instant Pot Farro M Q Stovetop Farro M Q Salt-Roasted Potatoes

SWEET TREATS 36 36 104 107 108 146

Honey Hawaij Challah with Espresso Tahini Swirl Drunken Monkey Bread Brûléed Banana Bourbon Bundt Cake FF Vanilla Praline Bundt Cake Marbled Peanut Butter and Jelly Bundt Cake Hawaij Brownie Lava Cakes FF

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

www.fleishigs.com



LAST BITE

Hawaij Brownie Lava Cakes Serves: 8

1

12 2 4 1

1

1¼ ⅔ 3

1

By: Shifra Klein

cup non-dairy butter substitute ounces chocolate, chopped cups confectioners’ sugar large eggs + 6 egg yolks tablespoon instant espresso powder, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water tablespoon + 2 teaspoons hawaij for coffee (see page 14), divided cups all-purpose flour cup halva, cut into 6 even pieces tablespoons toasted sesame seeds tablespoon sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease 8 (6-ounce) ramekins. Add non-dairy butter and chocolate to a saucepan over medium heat and cook until melted. Alternatively, microwave in 30-second increments, until fully melted. 2. Transfer chocolate to a mixing bowl and stir in confectioners’ sugar. Add eggs, egg yolks, dissolved espresso and 1 tablespoon hawaij for coffee and whisk to combine. Fold in flour and mix until just incorporated. 3. Divide batter evenly between prepared ramekins. Press a piece of halva into each ramekin. Mix sesame seeds, sugar and remaining 2 teaspoons hawaij for coffee and sprinkle on top of batter. Bake for 10 minutes, until the sides are set, but the centers are still soft. Serve immediately.

146

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2021

www.fleishigs.com




Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.