Fleishigs Magazine Issue 031 - November 2021 by Fleishigs Magazine

BUTCHER'S CUT

The wonders of veal chops

46 SHABBAT FEAST

A pared down Shabbos

EDITOR’S LETTER

ASK THE EXPERT Your pressing questions, answered

FOOD FOR GOOD Meet My Kneads

20 GIFT GUIDE What you need and where to get it 25 L’CHAIM Wines worth celebrating 26 RECIPE INDEX 36 BACK POCKET Pumpkin 62 BREAKING BREAD Challah fit for Chanukah 68 FOOD TALK Marc Murphy

CHANUKAH FEAST

Syrian maza party

72 SEASONAL Savory donuts unlike any other 93 PROFILE Poopa Dweck — the modern queen of Syrian cuisine 110 TRAVEL Guatemala 121 COOKBOOK Simply. Simply Gourmet, Every Day by Rivky Kleiman 128 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK All about the cork 130 LAST BITE Pie Dough Churros

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Breaking barriers and starting trends at Brooklyn’s MEAT NY

THE CHANUKAH ISSUE

EDITOR'S LETTER

So much funukah, to celebrate Chanukah. THE POWER OF INSTAGRAM.

Back in July, we found ourselves journeying to Deal, NJ (not for the sparkling, inviting Jersey coast) to shoot an impromptu Chanukah feature. The idea was initiated by a lively conversation Shlomo had on an Instagram Live with Jenine Shwekey and Chaya Bender while they were making kibbeh to raise money for The Special Children’s Center. (Read more about the story on page 78.) When the conversation turned to chopped liver, Shlomo suggested merging the Syrian delicacy of kibbeh (meat stuffed into bulgur shells and deep fried until golden) with the Ashkenaz delicacy of chopped liver (broiled livers mixed with hard boiled eggs and fried onions). This sparked instant inspiration and became the theme for the Chanukah issue — a fried feast surrounding Syrian maza (small bites of food). Who better to guide us than Jenine, who enthusiastically jumped on board and arranged for Esther Arking, “the queen of maza,” and legendary cookbook author Poopa Dweck to show us how it's done. The warm welcome we received from everyone in Deal was beyond words. When I say this was an impromptu shoot, I mean it — we brought nothing more than a few of our favorite wooden boards. Once I realized how much maza the ladies were preparing, Shlomo and I decided to turn it into a proper party scene, which ended up as the issue’s cover! Esther’s daughter brought me across the street to her aunt's house, who graciously allowed us to take whatever else we needed for the photo shoot. To keep it simple and clean, I opted for blue, silver and white accessories and

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even snagged a beautiful backgammon board, which I found out is a signature Bar Mitzvah gift and can be found in most Syrian homes. Esther pulled out her beautiful silver menorah, I set up the food and our photographer Schneur worked his magic. The experience as a whole was the true definition of what it means to work together, the power of women and how positively powerful social media can be. This speaks to the message of Chanukah, which celebrates the miracle of how a small quantity of olive oil, found somewhere amidst the destruction of the second Temple, managed to light the menorah (an integral part of Temple life) for eight days and nights. The light of the menorah has spiritual significance that the Lubavitcher Rebbe speaks about in many of his teachings, particularly how a tiny flame can banish a roomful of darkness, both physically and spiritually. Moreover, a flame is compared to a person's soul, which is referred to as a “candle of God” and has innate goodness and endless potential to bring positive change and influence to the world around us. Social media does not always feel like the most positive place and can be a place where negativity festers. However, there still is so much good when utilized correctly and I personally experienced this in the making of this issue. I hope this message and story inspires you as well to focus on the positive light of the Chanukah miracle (through food, of course, but also with action). Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Claudia Hopkins CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Roses are red, violets are red, but evidently this blurb isn't read. As of this issue going to print, I got just four responses to my cry for attention. Despite the deafening sound of silence (I was hoping for ten thousand people, maybe more), I will persevere, no mann no cry, I will survive, hey hey. So please tell your friend Malkalah it's time to celebrate Hanukkah and also to send me some music inspo @naftolimann on insta or just to acknowledge that you were here. (How I wish, how I wish you were here.) This issue was designed to the stylings of Eli Nathan, Haim Moshe, R.E.M & Vancouver Sleep Clinic. Oh and Bobby Vinton. Rip player 001.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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THE FREG ZONE FOR THOSE THAT AREN'T AFRAID TO ASK

Jacqueline, What is the best oil to use for frying? Can it be reused? -Rachel S. Oil with high smoke points are crucial for frying — peanut, vegetable or grapeseed work best. Feel free to reuse oil as long as it doesn’t reach its smoke point during the frying process. Allow it to cool, then strain into an airtight container. Store in the fridge for up to one month and reuse the oil only one or two more times. If the oil foams when reheated, do not use it.

Shifra, What is the best way to drain fried foods?

Naomi, Can I freeze fried foods?

-Chava M.

-Rachel R.

Setting freshly fried food on a wire cooling rack set over a sheet pan (see page 26) helps maintain ultimate crispiness. This is also the best way to reheat fried foods. It allows air to flow throughout and gives space for oil to drip below. You can also line a baking sheet with paper towels for easy clean up. -Shifra Klein @shifraklein

Fried foods are truly best enjoyed fresh. In the case of schnitzel (see page 34 for method), bread completely, then freeze in a single layer on a baking sheet, then fry fresh. Schnitzel can also be frozen once fried — let cool, then freeze in a single layer. -Naomi Nachman @naominachman

Vanessa, How can I prevent oil from splashing while frying? -Yanky P. Use a deep pot or Dutch oven, instead of a shallow frying pan. Another great tool for frying is a splatter screen. They are inexpensive and come in various sizes to fit the shape of your pan. An 11-inch round splatter screen by Lodge retails for about $9 on Amazon. -Vanessa Haberman @platesandpetals

-Jacqueline Elbaz @stuffffed

Naomi, What is your best frying tip? -Naftoli M. It’s important for the oil to be at the perfect temperature when frying — 350-375°F is typical for most foods. If the oil is too hot, the food will burn on the outside before the inside fully cooks and if the oil is not hot enough, it won’t yield golden, crispy results. When heating oil, start over medium heat, ensuring that the oil slowly comes to temperature. While a thermometer is an ideal tool for precise temperature readings, a foolproof way to test the oil safely is to insert the end of a wooden spoon into the oil. If bubbles form and float around the wood, the oil is ready for frying. If the oil bubbles rapidly, it may be too hot to work with. -Naomi Elberg @naomi_tgis

BONUS QUESTION

Have a question for a Fleishigs Foodie? DM us on Instagram @fleishigsmag. The content of all submissions (including letters, recipes and photographs) should be original and becomes property of Fleishigs Magazine, which reserves the right to republish and edit all correspondence received. By making a submission, you guarantee that you possess all necessary rights to grant the material to Fleishigs Magazine.

Nancy, Do you realize (oo-oo-ooh) that happiness makes you fry? -Naftoli M. Yes, although it's hard to make the good things last.

-Nancy B. Fry @nancybfry

Food for Good BY: LIZ RUEVEN

Food for Good is a new monthly column highlighting people, brands and food businesses that are committed to repairing the world through their generous actions. We hope their stories are illuminating and inspiring.

PRODUCT: MEET MY KNEADS® JARRED SPICE BLENDS

Susie Fishman, an industrial engineer turned California-based entrepreneur, had a dream to unite Jewish communities and repair the world from her kitchen. With three college-aged kids navigating their next steps in life, Susie began learning about food insecurity on university campuses. As an industrial engineer, she thought this was a solvable issue, albeit a complex one. She had her first “aha moment” as she was braiding her challah one Friday morning. Suddenly, she envisioned weaving strands of dough, spices, action and solution into a plan. Inspired by the bold flavors of the HE STORY:

shuks of Israel, Fishman merged her love of experimentation with her determination to help eliminate food insecurity on college campuses. After blending over 1,000 combinations, Fishman landed on the winning flavor profiles and launched Meet My Kneads, an impact-driven, spice blend start-up. The dried spice blends contain bright and complex flavors in each jar. Their names are Yiddish-isms that playfully hint at the contents, with names like Ungapatchke Challah® and Meshuga for Mexican®. There are currently nine blends on the market, four sweet and five savory.

ACTION Fishman donates 100% of the proceeds from her spice blend sales to studentdriven organizations that address food insecurity on college campuses. Challah For Hunger and Swipe Out Hunger were the primary beneficiaries in 2020-2021. CERTIFICATIONS Spices are all kosher certified under the Vaad of Northern California, nonGMO, vegan and gluten-free. LIZ’S FAVES Cinnamon Shtik® and Bubbe’s Bakery® for holiday challah, honey cake and apple cake; and Zayde’s BBQ® for perfectly seasoned grilled chicken and fish. NEW AND COMING SOON Meet My Kneads’ newest spice blend, A Shtikl Pickle®, is a pickling spice blend for cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes. A new spice blend is launching just in time for holiday cooking – Chutzpanit®, a bold and spicy blend intended for homemade schug. LEARN MORE AND SHOP meetmykneads.com

Liz Rueven has been writing about the intersection of seasonal recipes, local foodways and Jewish lifestyle since 2011. She’s passionate about supporting small farmers, food creatives and tending to her vegetable garden and grandkids. Follow Liz on instagram @kosherlikeme and on her blog kosherlikeme.com.

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TRAVEL

BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

HOT SAUCE Hot sauce is the hottest condiment on the market and has become a cultural phenomenon thanks to shops that sell it exclusively as well as shows like Hot Wings. From our perspective, hot sauce makes a perfect gift and is the perfect pairing for crispy fried latkes. Hot sauce also makes for a fun, interactive activity for those willing — choose a variety and have a tasting session at your Chanukah party.

Most of the products listed in this guide are available for purchase on each company’s website, Amazon or at various retailers. If you are unable to source a particular product, speak with the manager at your local grocery store — they might be excited to start carrying a new product!

NANDO’S PERI-PERI SAUCE

TATTOO HOT SAUCE

The popular fried chicken joint (which actually has a kosher spot in Johannesburg, South Africa) makes a mean line of hot sauces. Try the mild variety, a perfect starter hot sauce. Available in individual jars or variety packs. Certified kosher by OU

These hot sauces have inventive flavor combinations and vary in heat level (with a handy indicator on the back). Currently, the Japanese Togarashi, Polynesian Sweet & Sour, Avocado Serrano and Nashville Hot are kosher. Certified kosher by OU

MIKE’S HOT HONEY

ELLA JOLIE BY MIKEE TRUFFLE HOT SAUCE

This popular brand of chili-infused honey recently became kosher. It brings a perfect balance of sweet heat to dishes. Certified kosher by chof-k

HUY FONG SRIRACHA One of the most popular “original” hot sauces, Sriracha is mild and has a thicker texture than most hot sauces, making it very desirable as a topping. Certified kosher by RCC

The popular sauce brand’s line of truffle-infused hot sauce combines the earthy flavor of truffles with punchy hot sauce — trust us, it works! Available in original, habanero and cilantro tomatillo. Certified kosher by chof-K

SUPER HOT HEIRLOOM CHILI PEPPER HARVEST BOX Gift this ultimate box of hot peppers to the ultimate aficionado. With six different varieties, you can test your heat tolerance with some of the hottest peppers in the world.

uncommongoods.com | $60

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GIFT GUIDE

TRUFFLES Fresh truffles, otherwise known as prized fungus, are one of the world’s priciest ingredients and can sell for upwards of $100 an ounce! The reason for the high price tag is due to the fact that they are perishable, seasonal and extremely hard to source. Truffles are hunted by highly trained dogs in areas in Europe, Australia and North America. Freshly shaved truffle on dishes like pasta, rare steak and beef tartare is a true delicacy that can’t be replicated. However, truffle-infused products have taken the world by storm, serving as more approachable and attainable alternatives to the flavor of fresh truffles. When using truffle-infused products, it’s important to not overdo it — a little truly goes a long way!

SABATINO TARTUFI TRUFFLE ZEST Sabatino Tartufi is a family-owned company that has been producing high-quality, non-GMO truffle products since 1911. This black truffle zest provides a robust and authentic truffle flavor that is second to none. It is extremely versatile and can be used on roasted vegetables, popcorn and all kinds of protein. Certified kosher by OU

FRESH BLACK WINTER TRUFFLES Fresh truffles are typically purchased by the ounce (or even in smaller quantities due to their perishability) — a real luxury reserved for a special occasion. Available from many online retailers such as sabatinotruffles.com, bloomingdales.com, trufflin-nyc.com and markys.com (prices range depending on the season and truffles available).

BOOKS

SABATINO TARTUFI TRUFFLE SEA SALT This is the most inexpensive way to enjoy a more subtle flavor and aroma of truffle. Use it for almost any savory recipe that calls for finishing salt. Certified kosher by OU

SABATINO TARTUFI TRUFFLED STEAK SAUCE This steak sauce, made with a few quality ingredients, is infused with black truffles and natural truffle flavor. It’s a true savory sensation that pairs well with anything grilled, roasted or seared and is a perfect finishing or dipping sauce that will elevate your dish. Certified kosher by OU

TRUFFLE SHAVER Splurging on fresh truffles requires the proper tool to slice them paper thin. This stainless steel version has an adjustable blade and can also serve as a tool for shaving chocolate and cheese.

williams-sonoma.com | $19.95

KETTLE BRAND KRINKLE CUT TRUFFLE & SEA SALT POTATO CHIPS Ridged and kettle cooked for texture, these savory chips are packed with just the right amount of truffle essence, allowing you to snack in style. Certified kosher by chof-K

THE HOUSE OF FAITH & FASHION: WHAT MY WARDROBE TAUGHT ME ABOUT G-D Tobi Rubenstein’s collection of essays and conversations fuse together two seemingly opposing subjects — faith and fashion — in an easy, inspiring read. Tobi’s experience in the fashion world sparked her desire to bring spirituality into the fashion space.

thehouseoffaithandfashion.com | $24.95

PLATTERS AND BOARDS: BEAUTIFUL, CASUAL SPREADS FOR EVERY OCCASION Boards of every variety are the latest trend in hosting. Learn how to create a perfectly balanced board with this book by Shelly Westerhausen and Wyatt Worcel, which also makes a wonderful gift or coffee table book. It’s full of edible inspiration.

amazon.com | $15.38

*Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

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LEKOVID SHABBOS KODESH: FOR KIDS & KIDS AT HEART Raizy Fried's second Shabbos-themed cookbook is geared towards the entire family. With approachable recipes, table setting tips, a special chapter on the parsha and lots of inspiration for preparing for Shabbos, this book will make a wonderful gift for kids and kids at heart.

DESSERT PERSON

THE KOREAN VEGAN COOKBOOK: REFLECTIONS AND RECIPES FROM OMMA'S KITCHEN

Claire Saffitz’s new dessert book is the perfect gift for those who love to bake. It expertly and precisely offers 100 new dessert recipes along with tips and guidelines on troubleshooting while baking.

This newly released vegan cookbook by TikTok sensation Joanne Lee Molinaro is a perfect way for the kosher cook to experiment with Korean cuisine. Aside from being a wealth of valuable information, the book features beautiful photography and unique, memorable recipes.

amazon.com | $28.49

amazon.com | $24.77

raizyfried.com | $33.99

THE MOSAICA PRESS PLANNER

MILK STREET VEGETABLES

This sleek, leather-bound annual planner is available in three colors and starts with August 2021 and ends with October 2022. Most unique to this compact planner is the inclusion of the Jewish holidays and a convenient QR code feature that enables you to access accurate halachic times for your location — anytime, anywhere.

Vegetable side dishes are among our most requested categories, especially during the Jewish holidays. With over 250 vegetarian recipes, James Beard award winner Christopher Kimball elevates vegetables into stellar sides and main dishes in this newly released cookbook.

amazon.com | $39.95

amazon.com | $28.49

GIFT GUIDE

CHARCUTERIE ARTISAN KOSHER CHARCUTERIE Artisan Kosher, a high-end, small-batch charcuterie company based in New York, is revolutionizing the market with surprising, elevated and outrageous flavors, such as watermelon beef jerky, peppery veal porchetta, beef tongue and Korean beef bites. Every item on an Artisan Kosher platter exceeds all expectations, with a fine attention to detail, down to the packaging. Even the board accompaniments, such as boozy blueberries, blue truffle chips, pastrami jam, housemade pickles and kichel, make this charcuterie platter a real experience. To find out more or to order, email ephraim@ artisankosher.com or WhatsApp (845) 6824923. Prices start at $175 for small boards (feeds 4-6) and $275 for large boards (feeds 8-10). Available for delivery in the tri-state area. Certified kosher by Rav Ephraim Mordechai Friedman

BAMBER BLACK WALNUT WOOD RECTANGULAR SERVING TRAY When creating meat boards or serving store bought charcuterie, use a sturdy board that has a lip, which prevents anything from falling off. This mediumsized black walnut tray, available on Amazon for under $30, is a great size (9x13.4-inch) and cleans easily.

MAJESTIX STUDIO CUSTOM WALNUT RESIN BOARD Customize a wood-resin board (like the one below, which was custom-made for Fleishigs) by choosing your desired shape, color and personalization. Visit Instagram @majestixstudio or majestixstudios.com to order. Prices for live edge wood boards start at $95. Wood-resin boards start at $350.

CHALKBOARD MARKERS This set of six markers is the perfect rustic way to label various items on any charcuterie board. Compatible with soapstone chalk; sold separately.

crateandbarrel.com | $14.95

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L'CHAIM

C H ÂT E A U R O U B I N E I N S P I R E C R U

FAU ST I N O V I R I OJ A

CLASSÉ ROSÉ 2020

2020

This is a top-of-the-line wine from Château Roubine, a certified organic and biodynamic estate and arguably one of the finest rosé wine producers in the world. Sip, hum, swirl and contemplate while comfortably watching the menorah’s candles.

It’s hard to believe that this is a kosher wine, but the word “kosher” is prominently printed on the front label. It’s a juicy, fruity and spicy rioja made from 100% tempranillo (a grape variety native to Spain) and pairs wonderfully with slow-roasted meat like brisket.

YA T I R F O R E S T 2 0 1 8 This is one of Israel’s most iconic flagship wines grown in a man-made forest in the Southern Judean Hills, bordering the arid, hot Negev Desert. It’s a bold, fruit-forward yet multi-layered and complex blend that can evolve for over a decade in the cellar and pairs well with red meat.

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L'CHAIM

S E GA L N AT I V E M A R AW I 2019 This wine is even more special than most Israeli wines in that it’s made from marawi, a native, indigenous grape variety used to make wine more than 2,000 years ago at the time of the Beit Hamikdash. It has a restrained, austere and elegant profile with high acidity and would be an original pairing option with some fried latkes.

E P H O D E B I ATA R CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 Ephod is a relatively new winery in the Judean Hills. The name is in tribute to the artifact that the Kohen Gadol wore on his chest in the Beit Hamikdash, which featured 12 gemstones representing each of the 12 Tribes of the Jewish people. This is a powerful, rich and fruitforward wine, which should be paired with equally rich dishes like steak.

TOP 5 WINES TO GIFT THIS CHANUKAH BY: GABRIEL GELLER

Not only are the following wines perfect to serve at your Chanukah parties or on Shabbat, they are wonderful, quality choices to gift as well.

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ESSENTIALS NEW YORK SHUK HARISSA SPICE BLEND Use one of the three harissa spice blends (signature, rosey and fiery) on roasted vegetables (such as the Roasted Harissa Cauliflower on page 56) for an added punch of flavor. Available online at nyshuk.com. N OT E : While the spice blends are certified kosher, the harissa pastes are not. Certified kosher by OU.

TUSCANINI GNOCCHI This new line of gnocchi makes dinner a breeze and boils in only three minutes. Try the cauliflower gnocchi or the mini potato gnocchi in Meat NY’s Gnocchi with Roasted Cauliflower and Sunchoke Cream on page 108. Certified kosher by OU, Weissmandel and EUK

GOYA FINE BULGUR WHEAT Bulgur, otherwise known as cracked wheat, is typically found in fine or medium grind, lending that familiar texture and flavor to Syrian kibbeh. Use in the kibbeh recipes found on pages 87-88. Certified kosher by OU

SAMUEL ADAMS JACK-O PUMPKIN ALE Once the weather turns, pumpkin spice products show up on store shelves everywhere.

BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ It tends to have a polarizing reputation, but in actuality, pumpkin products are seasoned with warm spices like cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and allspice — reminiscent of the fall season. The flavors in this seasonal ale truly elevate the Beer-Battered Delicata Squash on page 41. N OT E : Flavored beers require kosher certification. Certified kosher by Star-K

CAZENOVE CHANUKAH COOKIE CUTTER CUBE We love this festive 3D cookie cutter for its unique shape and the fact that it’s one piece, which makes it easy to keep track of from year to year. Use it to make the Pie Dough Churros on page 130. Cazenove products are available in many kosher supermarkets and judaica stores.

judaica.com | $7.00

WILDONE BAKING SHEET WITH RACK SET Among their many uses, wire cooling racks and baking sheets are essential for holding food once fried to keep it crispy and fresh (i.e. Beer Battered Delicata Squash [page 41]; Veal Milanese [page 34]; donuts [Seasonal feature page 72]; and more). These heavy duty sets, which come in three sizes, are dishwasher safe and oven safe and are extremely versatile.

amazon.com | $24.99

RECIPE INDEX CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 33 41 108 108 126 126

Mushroom Gravy Hot Maple Syrup M Q Sunchoke Cream M Garlic Breadcrumbs M Q Sizzling Grapefruit Spritzer Hot Chanukah Michelada

42 Stuffed Acorn Squash with Jeweled Rice 56 Herb-Grilled Frenched Chicken FF 56 Grilled Italian London Broil FF M 87 Kibbeh Nabelsieh 87 Laham B’Ajeen FF 88 Tadbileh Filling M Q 88 Tadbileh Empanadas 89 Chaya’s Liver

FISH

124 Sesame Chicken FF

52 Lemon Pepper Miso-Glazed Salmon M Q 122 Batter-Dipped Tilapia FF

DOUGH

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 34 38 41 51 52 56 60 89 86 108

Arugula Salad M Q Kabocha Squash Soup FF Beer-Battered Delicata Squash Rings FF Roasted Vegetables FF M Q Eggplant Caponata Roasted Harissa Cauliflower Peach and Tomato Gazpacho Q Syrian-Inspired Kale Salad Salata Banadoura M Q Gnocchi with Roasted Cauliflower & Sunchoke Cream

CHICKEN & MEAT 30 Broiled Veal Chops with Grapes FF Q 33 Sous Vide Veal Chop M 34 Veal Milanese M Q 26

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SAMPLE THANKSGIVING MENU

64 Schnitzel and Beef Fry Stuffed Challah 64 Mandylicious Challah Dough 74 Basic Donuts FF 76 Orange Chicken Sufganiyot with Crispy Chicken Skin 76 Sticky Sesame Sufganiyot 76 Chili Ginger Peanut Sufganiyot 76 Sweet and Sour Pineapple Sufganiyot

SWEET TREATS

BEER-BATTERED DELICATA SQUASH RINGS HERB-GRILLED FRENCHED CHICKEN STUFFED ACORN SQUASH WITH JEWELED RICE SYRIAN-INSPIRED KALE SALAD ROASTED VEGETABLES PUMPKIN BAKLAVA

44 Pumpkin Pie Baklava 58 Dressed Up Chocolate Cake FF M Q 66 Strawberry Elderflower Babkaniyot 66 Chocolate Babkaniyot FF 109 Strawberry Sabayon M Q 109 Strawberry Compote FF M Q 130 Pie Dough Churros FF M Q

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

What is Veal? Veal comes from calves, as opposed to beef, which comes from fully grown cows. The age of veal varies and is usually labeled (or ask your butcher) to signify how young it is. Most veal is butchered between 2-3 months of age. The color of the flesh and bones is an indicator of the age of the calf — lighter flesh indicates a younger calf and darker, pinker flesh indicates an older calf. Unlike beef, veal doesn’t have a lot of marbling, as the muscles have not been used as much. On one hand, veal is tender, but needs a careful, gentler approach to cooking than traditional beef.

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ROS E V E A L

W H AT TO LO O K FO R

Grow & Behold (available online at growandbehold. com) is currently the only kosher company that offers rose veal, which comes from young steer that graze and nurse naturally from their mother for 8-12 months. They roam freely on pastures (their farm also includes 150 acres devoted to wildlife management) and are never confined, isolated or fed a diet that encourages anemia. Because the calves are older, rose veal is not as tender as traditional veal, but is still considered to be an ethical variety.

When purchasing veal

V E A L C H O PS

Tender, highly-prized rib cuts are called chops and, just like lamb chops, are the same cut as a rib steak on a steer. Chops are bone-in, meaty and delicious and are best cooked to medium (130°F-135°F) over high, dry heat via grilling, broiling or pan-searing. The ideal thickness of a veal chop is 1½-2 inches thick, which allows you to achieve both a wonderful sear and a medium center.

chops, look for the following: 1. Bright color that isn’t graying 2. Minimal sinew and inner marbling 3. White fat, but not too much outside fat, which is a sign that the calf has been overfed SU B ST I T U T I O N S

For veal milanese, you can use any boneless cut of meat or chicken.

F R E N C H E D V E A L C H O PS

For all other grilled,

Frenched simply means that the butcher cut away excess fat and meat on the bone part of the chop to create a cleaner look. It will cost a bit more, and while it doesn’t taste any different, does offer a more gourmet presentation.

sous vide, seared or broiled recipes, try lamb chops, rib steaks or a well marbled 1½inch thick London broil.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Broiled Veal Chops with Grapes Serves: 4-6

This is the quickest and easiest way to cook veal chops. 3 2

1 1 1 1 6 3 3 2

tablespoons grapeseed oil tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper tablespoon whole grain mustard tablespoon Dijon mustard tablespoon minced fresh rosemary teaspoon kosher salt (1-inch) bone-in veal chops cups red grapes tablespoons red wine vinegar teaspoons sugar

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1. Preheat oven to broil. Mix oil, pepper, mustards, rosemary and salt; rub all over veal chops. Arrange on a baking sheet or broiler pan. 2. Toss grapes with vinegar and sugar. Arrange around the veal chops. Broil on the top rack (6 inches from heat source) to desired doneness, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. 3. Transfer veal chops to a serving platter with any accumulated pan drippings. G R I L L I T: Heat grill to medium-high heat. Grill veal chops for 6 minutes per side. Serve with broiled grapes.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Sous Vide Veal Chop Serves: 1-2

This is more of a method than a recipe, so you can adjust the quantities to meet your needs. 1 1 ½

(16-ounce) bone-in veal chop teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon grapeseed oil

1. Set an immersion circulator in a water bath and heat to 134°F. Place veal chop into a sous vide bag, season with salt and pepper, seal tightly and cook in the water bath for 3 hours. 2. Remove veal chop from bag and pat dry with paper towels. Heat oil in a cast iron skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Sear veal chop until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. 3. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve as is or with your favorite sauce.

Mushroom Gravy Yield: 3 cups

Heat 2 tablespoons duck fat in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add 2 minced shallots and sauté for 2 minutes. Add 16 ounces chopped baby bella mushrooms and sauté until golden, about 12 minutes. Add 2 sliced garlic cloves and 3 sprigs fresh thyme. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and sauté for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour and mix until fully coated. Increase heat to high and add 1 cup white wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until wine is mostly reduced. Add 2 cups chicken stock and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes. Thin with more stock, if needed.

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Veal Milanese

Serves:

2 1 1 1

This take on the classic Italian delicacy is all about achieving the crispiest coating, which is enhanced by panko breadcrumbs. What makes this recipe unique is the combination of frying and oven baking to achieve a super crunchy exterior. This recipe is best made to order. N OT E : Although this recipe calls for bone-in veal chops, the same method can be followed using boneless veal or chicken cutlets. It would even be great with boneless shoulder steak.

4 4

(1-inch) bone-in veal chops extra-large eggs

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teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups seasoned breadcrumbs cup plain panko breadcrumbs tablespoon Italian seasoning Grapeseed oil, for frying Maldon salt, for serving Arugula Salad (recipe follows) lemon, sliced

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Place each veal chop between 2 sheets of plastic wrap (or inside a large Ziploc bag) and pound to ¼-inch thickness using a rolling pin or the flat side of a meat mallet. 3. Create a dredging station by beating eggs and pepper in one deep plate and mixing breadcrumbs, panko breadcrumbs

and Italian seasoning in another deep plate. 4. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and fill with ½ inch oil. Dredge veal chops in eggs and then breadcrumbs. Fry for 4 minutes per side, until golden brown. 5. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and cook in the oven for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with Maldon salt immediately and serve with salad and sliced lemon.

Arugula Salad Whisk 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Toss with 4 cups baby arugula or baby salad greens and 1 cup cherry tomatoes.

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BY: CHANIE

APFELBAUM

HARVEST SEASON IS just about my favorite time of year — the smell of the brisk autumn breeze, roasted chestnuts, pumpkins, cranberries and maple, oh my! There are so many varieties of pumpkin; the irony is that the one pumpkin you shouldn't really be eating is the one you'll find at almost every pumpkin patch. Carving pumpkins are for Jack-o’-lanterns, not cooking — they're quite bland, watery and very stringy. The best pumpkins for baking and cooking are ones that are sweet, flavorful and have smoothtextured flesh, such as sugar pumpkins and Japanese kabocha squash, which have a velvety texture and nutty sweet flesh. Some of my other favorite

squashes include acorn, delicata, butternut and its baby cousin, honeynut squash. I've never quite hopped on the spaghetti squash train, especially not as a spaghetti replacement, because who are we kidding? Pumpkin is naturally sweet and a blank canvas for both sweet and savory applications. I love a savory pumpkin curry on meatless Mondays and I never turn down a good old-fashioned slice of pumpkin pie. If you really want to be economical, save those pumpkin seeds — they make a wonderful snack. Rinse in a strainer, pat dry and toss with some extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast on a baking sheet at 375°F until golden and crisp, about 15 minutes.

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Kabocha Squash Soup Reprinted with permission from Millennial Kosher by Chanie Apfelbaum (Artscroll Mesorah Publications) Yield: 6-8 servings

I've never been one for blended soups (I'm a texture gal!), but this is handsdown my favorite soup of all time. Sweet, salty and spicy with a velvety texture, it's just pure comfort in a bowl. The best part is, you roast the kabocha squash whole, so no need to take out that jackhammer to break it apart! 1 3 1 2 3 1

2 1

(3-4 pound) kabocha squash cups vegetable stock tablespoon brown sugar tablespoons maple syrup tablespoons white miso paste teaspoon Sriracha, plus more for garnish cup coconut milk, plus more for garnish Kosher salt, to taste scallions, thinly sliced tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place squash onto a baking sheet. Cut a few slits into it with a sharp knife. Roast the squash for 1 hour, flipping it over after 30 minutes. Test for doneness using a skewer or fork, the squash should be fork tender. Cook for an additional 10-15 minutes, if necessary. 2. Remove squash from the oven; set it aside to cool. Once cooled, slice the squash in half and remove the seeds. Scoop out all the flesh (you should have about 3 cups); place it into a 6-quart pot. 3. Add stock, brown sugar, maple syrup, miso, Sriracha and coconut milk to the pot; bring the mixture to a simmer. 4. Cook for a few minutes; purée with an immersion blender. Adjust consistency by adding more stock or coconut milk, if desired. 5. Ladle the soup into serving bowls; drizzle with coconut milk and Sriracha. Garnish with scallions and sesame seeds. 38

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Beer-Battered Delicata Squash Serves: 6

With Chanukah and Thanksgiving so close together this year, these fried squash rings make the perfect nosh for either feast. They even kind of look like donuts, and since there's a vegetable inside, we can call them healthy, right? N OT E : These are best enjoyed immediately, but can be made 1-2 hours in advance. Once fried, drain on a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and keep in a warm oven.

1 ½ 1 ½ ½ ½ ⅛ 1

cup all-purpose flour cup cornstarch teaspoon baking powder teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon onion powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cayenne pepper (12-ounce) bottle pumpkin beer (see page 26) delicata squashes, sliced into ½-inch rings, seeds removed Canola oil, for frying Hot Maple Syrup (recipe follows)

1. Mix flour, cornstarch and spices. Slowly pour in the beer and whisk until a thick batter forms. 2. Heat a few inches of oil in a skillet to 350°F. Working in batches, dip squash rings into the batter, then fry until golden, about 1-2 minutes per side. Remove with a slotted spoon or spider and drain on paper towels. 3. Drizzle with hot maple syrup and serve immediately.

P RO

T I P

Use this recipe and method with any of your favorite vegetables (such as onions, zucchini and mushrooms) or protein (chicken and flounder) for endless ways to enjoy this savory fried treat beyond just Chanukah.

H OT M A P L E SY RU P

Heat ½ cup maple syrup and 1 tablespoon bourbon in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed. Stir in ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper.

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Stuffed Acorn Squash with Jeweled Rice Serves: 10

If boots are made for walking, then acorn squash is made for stuffing! When cut from root to stem, they have the prettiest bowl shape that is perfect for filling. Fill them with soup or stuff with any grain or vegetable dish. This fragrant jeweled rice with ground beef makes a beautiful and festive appetizer for holiday meals. Plus, it’s a whole meal in a neat little package. 1. To toast pine nuts, spread on a baking sheet and toast in a 350°F oven for 6-8 minutes, until golden brown. Be careful — they can burn quickly! 2. The rice may yield a bit more then you will need for the acorn squash. While not a bad thing at all, we'd like to offer you the chance to plan ahead and use any remaining rice as a side dish for dinner or Shabbat.

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FO R T H E SQ UAS H :

5 ¼ ¼ 2 1 ½

(1½ pound) acorn squashes cup olive oil cup honey teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon cinnamon

FO R T H E R I C E :

2 1 1

3 1½ 2 2 1 ½ ¼ 3 4 ½ ⅓ 1 1

tablespoons olive oil cup shredded carrots leek, white and pale green parts only, sliced lengthwise and thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced pounds ground beef teaspoons allspice teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon ground cloves cups basmati rice cups chicken stock cup golden raisins cup toasted pine nuts (see note) cup pomegranate seeds cup fresh parsley, roughly chopped

3. For the squash, preheat oven to 425°F. Cut squashes in half from root to stem and scoop out the seeds. Place, cut sides up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. 4. Brush with olive oil, drizzle with honey and season with salt, pepper and cinnamon. Roast until fork-tender, about 35-45 minutes. 5. For the rice, heat olive oil in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat. Add carrots, leeks and garlic and sauté until softened, about 3-5 minutes. Add ground beef and cook until browned. 6. Add allspice, salt, cinnamon, pepper, cloves and rice and stir until coated, then add stock and ½ cup water. Lower heat to a simmer and cook, covered, until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. 7. Add raisins and cook, covered, for another 10 minutes. To serve, stuff roasted acorn squash halves with rice mixture. Top with toasted pine nuts, pomegranate seeds and fresh parsley.

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Pumpkin Pie Baklava Serves: 8

If pumpkin pie, pecan pie and baklava had a baby, then this would be it. Although it’s a bit labor intensive to work with delicate phyllo dough, it’s definitely worth the effort. N OT E : Make sure to buy pure pumpkin purée, not pumpkin pie filling, which is sweetened. FO R T H E P U M P K I N F I L L I N G :

1 ½ ⅓ 1 ½ ⅛ ⅛

cups pumpkin purée cup brown sugar teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cardamom teaspoon nutmeg

⅛

teaspoon cloves

TO ASS E M B L E :

½ 2 ¼

(16-ounce) box phyllo dough, thawed (such as Athen’s) cup non-dairy butter substitute, melted cup maple syrup tablespoons brown sugar teaspoon kosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix ingredients for pumpkin filling in one bowl and ingredients for pecan filling in another bowl. 2. Remove the phyllo dough from the package and cover with a damp paper towel as you assemble.

FO R T H E P ECA N F I L L I N G :

3. Grease a 9-inch round pie dish. Place a sheet of phyllo dough into the pie dish and brush with butter. Repeat with 9 more layers, placing each one at a bit of an angle from the previous one. Spread half the pumpkin mixture and sprinkle with half the pecan mixture.

1 ¼ ½ ½

4. Top with another 6 sheets of phyllo, brushing with butter in between each layer. Spread remaining pumpkin mixture and sprinkle with remaining pecan mixture. Fin-

cup pecans, chopped cup brown sugar teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt

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ish with 10 more sheets of phyllo, brushing with butter in between each layer, placing each one at a bit of angle from the previous one. 5. Using a very sharp paring knife, score diamond shapes into the phyllo dough. Fold the overhanging phyllo over itself, creating a crust. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. 6. In the meantime, combine maple syrup, ¼ cup water, brown sugar and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Heat until sugar dissolves and mixture thickens slightly. Let cool completely. Drizzle syrup over the baklava while still warm.

Chanie Apfelbaum is a food blogger, recipe developer and food photographer who shares her love of food, family and tradition on her popular Instagram platform @busyinbrooklyn, as well as on her blog, busyinbrooklyn.com. She is the author of the best-selling cookbook, Millennial Kosher (Artscroll Mesorah Publications) and is currently working on her second book, to be released by Clarkson Potter, Fall 2022.

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FOR MOST FAMILIES, hosting guests around their Shabbat table is filled with joy and meaning, bringing a social and spiritual connection to their otherwise hectic lives. For Avital Chizhik-Goldschmidt and many other rebbetzins (“the rabbi’s wife,” or as Avital describes it, the “spiritual First Lady”) around the world, it goes beyond that, holding a place as a sacred obligation and call of duty as a community leader. Born to ba’al teshuva (returnee to Judaism) immigrant parents from Soviet Russia, Avital spent years feeling like an outsider, trying to find her place in the religious community. “It’s like a dual immigration into both American and religious society,” she describes. By 21, Avital’s journalism career was flourishing, writing for Haaretz and The Forward about women’s issues and the challenges of daily religious life. After her marriage at 23 to a young, but already well-known rabbi of the Upper East Side Jewish community, Avital

BY: CH AN A Z. WEISS R ECI P ES BY: SHIFRA K L EIN

By: Chana Z. Weiss Recipes by: Shifra Klein

found herself no longer on the margins, but suddenly thrust into the limelight as a community leader with all of the accompanying societal expectations. “I embraced it,” writes Avital in a recent article for Vogue magazine. “I tried my best to be a gracious hostess; I baked challah and I cooked elaborate Ottolenghiinspired meals with a side of Ashkenazi delicacies. I ironed table linens and laid out my precious wedding china.” Avital would plan her Shabbat menus far in advance, filling pages and pages of notebooks with new ideas to outshine the last. The challahs were home-baked, as were the fresh biscotti for dessert. Each meal had multiple courses, including decadent dishes like brisket, short ribs, numerous fresh salads and side dishes. “Maybe it was coming from a place of insecurity because I was such a young rebbetzin,” Avital reflects, “but I felt like I had to be the ‘hostess with the mostest,’ always offering a wide variety to my guests.”

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N TRUTH, AVITAL was racing on a treadmill that only kept moving faster. “I was working full-time as a journalist, and on Friday afternoons, I would race home from the office, pregnant and with a toddler at home, my anxiety peaking as the subway got delayed, my mind racing through all the food that I needed to cook before sunset, before the clock would strike and Shabbat would begin and nothing could be done,” she writes. Aside from the pre-Shabbat pressure, guests started to notice that as they sat around her beautifullydecorated table, Avital’s seat was empty as she frantically plated the next course in her tiny New York City kitchen. “There was a particularly smart young man we had at our table who had read much of my work and spent time discussing intellectual topics with me. He reached out after Shabbat to express his surprise that at home, I seemed like a different person — more of a housewife than a participant and leader.” This was a wake-up call for the truth that had already been settling into Avital’s consciousness. “I want to be sitting at the table; to be part of the conversation,” she adds. “I want to give a d’var Torah (thoughts on the weekly Torah portion) or engage in discussion on the thoughts someone else has shared.” After COVID halted their community Shabbat meals, Avital found herself relieved to have a break from the mounting pressure of hosting, but as the months went by, she found herself craving that community connection again. She knew that they would have guests at their table again as soon as they were able to, but this time would be different. “I realized that my guests are not coming to my home for restaurantquality, home-cooked meals, but for the social and spiritual connection that we have all been craving,” she says. Although at first she balked at the idea, Avital’s husband Benjamin encouraged her to purchase at least some of the food for each meal, including challah and dessert from a local bakery as well as a few catered dishes and dips.

We are not courses, we are human

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AVITAL’S SHABBAT MENU now stays fairly consistent from week to week, cutting down significantly on the stress of menu planning. Guests (no more than 12, for a more intimate and cohesive setting) are booked by Tuesday and orders from the caterer, baker and butcher are placed on Wednesday for Thursday delivery. A typical Friday night meal now includes store bought challah and dips, followed by a grilled chicken or steak board alongside some simply prepared roasted vegetables, like eggplant carpaccio, grilled portobello mushrooms and roasted carrots or cauliflower. A far cry from the laborious recipes of Avital’s past, these fresh and easy recipes are thrown together quite easily on Friday afternoon. For Shabbat lunch, multi-course meals with complex and heavy meat dishes have given way to a lighter and less

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SHABBAT FEAST

labor-intensive pescatarian menu. After challah and gazpacho, Avital often serves a fish board using lox or other store bought smoked fish that can be easily assembled before the meal. It’s often served alongside grilled or roasted vegetables (some of which might pull double duty for both Friday night and Shabbat lunch), with homemade sangria to round out the menu. Besides lightening the load of the one preparing the meal, guests appreciate the lightened up menu as well. “We both feel strongly about modeling a healthy lifestyle in every aspect, which includes taking care of our bodies as well as our souls,” says Avital. “Rav Kook speaks about the holiness of the flesh and how it’s part of our spiritual obligation to pay attention to and take care of our bodies as well.” With a new frame of mind, Avital now finds herself back at the table — more relaxed, participating in the conversations with her children and guests and enjoying hosting once again. The meal is set up buffet-style to minimize time in the kitchen (no individually plated meals here!) and served on disposable plates for quicker clean up. “With the social isolation that we have collectively experienced over the past year and

a half, it's even more important than ever that we preserve the quality of our community bond and connection. As a woman, it’s crucial to engage with the young women who come to my home and for them to see that I have a role at that table,” says Avital. After the publication of Avital’s thought-provoking Vogue article (entitled “How the Pandemic Helped Me Embrace Being a Rabbi's Wife”), she was inundated with comments of support from women who, while holding various different roles in their respective communities, related to every word and felt inspired to do the same. “All the pretenses of hosting, which we had previously felt compelled to offer— the multi-courses and Bloomingdales’ china—have faded; now the focus is less on the show and more about the guests themselves. And unlike in past years, when I fussed over an elaborate menu, shuffling back and forth from the kitchen with endless platters—I now sit back, Benjamin and I at opposite heads of the table, he pours the wine; we talk, ask, sing, listen.”

F R I D AY N I G H T BAKERY CHALLAH ROLLS GRILLED VEGETABLES ROASTED HARISSA CAULIFLOWER HERB-GRILLED FRENCHED CHICKEN GRILLED ITALIAN LONDON BROIL WITH STEAK SAUCE BAKERY CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH FRESH BERRIES

S H A B B AT L U N C H BAKERY CHALLAH ROLLS PEACH & TOMATO GAZPACHO MOROCCAN FISH (FIND THE RECIPE FROM ISSUE #23 IN THE FLEISHIGS APP) LEMON PEPPER MISO-GLAZED SALMON EGGPLANT CAPONATA GRILLED VEGETABLES BAKERY CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH FRESH BERRIES

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

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R OA S T E D V E G E TA B L E T I P S When it comes to roasting vegetables, there really isn’t anything much to it. Toss vegetables of choice in good quality olive oil, season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a metal baking sheet and roast at 425°F until tender, about 20-30 minutes. There are a few things to keep in mind when roasting vegetables to ensure success every time:

ALWAYS USE A METAL BAKING SHEET. THE SIZE OF THE VEGETABLES SHOULD BE CONSISTENT FOR EVEN COOKING. IF YOU ARE ROASTING VEGETABLES WITH VARYING COOK TIMES, ROAST ON SEPARATE PANS (SUCH AS BEETS OR SWEET POTATOES, WHICH WILL TAKE MUCH LONGER THAN FENNEL OR ASPARAGUS). BEYOND JUST SALT AND PEPPER, GET CREATIVE WITH THE SEASONINGS — EVERYTHING BAGEL SPICE MIX, HAWAIJ, HARISSA OR HERBS DE PROVENCE WILL ADD A BOOST OF FLAVOR. SERVE ROASTED VEGETABLES AS IS OR USE AS A TOPPING FOR SOUPS, SALADS OR HUMMUS PLATTERS.

In keeping with the theme of a pareddown Shabbos, we used a combination of real and disposable platters for this family-style spread. We love perusing retailers such as Crate & Barrel and Home Goods for affordable finds, in addition to local housewares stores.

These unique My Drap cocktail napkins (available online at mydrap.com) come in a roll and tear to size. The napkins are 100% cotton and are available in many sizes, colors and patterns, from casual to formal. They are single use or machine-washable (up to 6-9 times) and can even be personalized.

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2 2 2

(6-ounce) salmon fillets lemons, divided tablespoons olive oil teaspoons freshly ground black pepper tablespoons miso tablespoons honey teaspoons soy sauce

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Arrange salmon on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cut 3 lemons in half and arrange, cut side down, around the salmon. 2. Mix olive oil, black pepper and the zest and juice of the remaining lemon; brush over salmon and roast for 12 minutes.

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MENU. OH, ITS TIME TO

S AY

GOOD

3. Combine miso, honey and soy sauce. Increase oven to broil. Brush salmon with miso mixture and broil for 2-3 minutes. Serve with roasted lemons.

D AY T O G E T H E R W I T H A V I T A L ’ S

6 4 3 2

SPEND THE

DONE,GONNA

Serves: 6

Lemon Pepper Miso-Glazed Salmon

SHABBOS, 'CAUSE ALL YOUR WORK

SHABBAT FEAST

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Eggplant Caponata Serves: 8

Caponata is a classic dish that simply goes with everything. Serve it alongside roasted or grilled chicken or fish. It’s even delicious on its own as a dip with challah. O P T I O N A L : Salt sliced eggplant

to release any bitterness. Arrange eggplant slices on a kitchen towel and sprinkle with salt. Allow to sit for a half hour. Flip. Repeat and pat dry. Proceed with the recipe. ½ 2

1 2 2 ½

3 1 ¼ ¼ ¼

½ ½

cup extra-virgin olive oil pounds Chinese or Japanese eggplant, cut on the bias into 1-inch slices large red onion, thinly sliced stalks celery, thinly sliced teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons tomato paste cup canned crushed tomatoes teaspoon cumin teaspoon cinnamon, optional teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, optional cup pitted green olives, roughly chopped cup red wine vinegar

tablespoon sugar

cup fresh basil chiffonade, for garnish

Toasted pine nuts, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a large sauté over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add eggplant and fry, tossing occasionally, until browned on both sides, about 3–4 minutes per side, adding more oil if necessary. Transfer eggplant to a baking sheet lined with paper towels. 2. Add onions and celery and sauté until beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add tomato paste and sauté until caramelized and vegetables are coated. 3. Add crushed tomatoes, cumin, cinnamon and crushed red pepper, if desired, and continue to sauté for 10 minutes. Stir in olives, vinegar, sugar and stir until thickened, about 15 minutes. 4. Add eggplant back to the pan and stir to combine. Cook for about 5 minutes just to heat through. To serve, garnish with fresh basil and toasted pine nuts. www.fleishigs.com

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Herb-Grilled Frenched Chicken Serves: 8 E D I TO R’S N OT E : While this recipe works wonderfully using pargiyot (skinless, boneless chicken bottoms), we were inspired by Vanessa Haberman’s use of Frenched chicken legs in the Savory Fig Chicken recipe featured in the most recent Rosh Hashana issue. Frenched chicken legs (sometimes known as chicken steaks) refer to boneless, skinless chicken legs with the drumstick bones left intact and Frenched. It truly makes for a beautiful presentation.

⅓ 1

Roasted Harissa Cauliflower Serves: 6

Harissa is a Tunisian pepper paste and can range in heat from mild to spicy. Harissa can also be found in the form of a spice blend, putting a new spin on the classic “popcorn cauliflower,” which is always a hit at the Shabbat table. If you can’t find harissa seasoning (see page 26), use ⅓ cup harissa sauce (such as Mina, which is available in mild and spicy). 2 ⅓ 1 2

heads cauliflower cup extra-virgin olive oil tablespoon harissa spice blend (see headnote) teaspoons kosher salt

Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss cauliflower with olive oil, salt and harissa. Roast for 25-35 minutes, until golden brown. D R E SS I T U P: To serve, drizzle with

silan and tahini. Top with chopped parsley, pistachios and pomegranate seeds.

¾ ½ ½ 3 1 ½

cup extra-virgin olive oil lemon (zest and juice) or preserved lemon cup chopped fresh parsley cup chopped fresh dill cup chopped fresh cilantro cloves garlic, minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Frenched chicken legs (see headnote)

1. Mix olive oil, lemon, herbs, garlic, salt and pepper. Add chicken steaks and marinate for 1 hour. 2. Heat grill to medium-high heat and grill for 15 minutes on one side and 10 minutes on the other. Alternatively, roast in a 425°F oven for 35-45 minutes.

Grilled Italian London Broil Serves: 6-8

Italian dressing is one of our favorite pantry staples — though you will never find it on one of our salads! In fact, it is delicious as a marinade and works on almost any protein. We especially like using it when grilling, so our pantry is always stocked with a few bottles for impromptu barbecues or dinners. 1 2 2

(3-pound) London broil cups Italian dressing large red onions, sliced Steak sauce, for serving

1. Marinate London broil in Italian dressing for 4-12 hours. 2. Arrange onions on a half sheet pan and place London broil on top. Broil for 6 minutes per side. 3. Let cool, then slice. Serve with steak sauce.

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PA R E D D OW N D E SS E RT We purchased our favorite chocolate Bundt cake at the bakery counter of our local kosher supermarket (Gourmet Glatt) and dressed it up with whipped cream and fresh fruit. We typically serve it with hot coffee (or espresso) and rosé, proving that a pared down Shabbat can be elegant.

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T I P Don’t have a local kosher bakery or want to make your own chocolate cake? Yes, you can easily look online for a chocolate cake recipe, but we happen to love the one on the back of Hershey’s cocoa! It comes together quickly and is delicious every time. Just use non-dairy milk to keep it pareve.

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Peach and Tomato Gazpacho Serves: 12

Gazpacho is a great solution for produce, such as tomatoes and cucumbers, that may be reaching the end of its fresh life. Just blend together with a few other ingredients for a stellar side that can be served cold. To make it a more interactive experience, set out small bowls with extra sliced peaches, chopped almonds, diced cucumbers, fresh mint and even diced jalapeños so that everyone can garnish their own gazpacho based on their preferences.

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2 1

¼ ½ 5 1 ½ 1 ½

cups cherry tomatoes cup frozen sliced peaches, plus more for garnish cup unsweetened coconut milk cup marcona almonds hothouse cucumber sprigs fresh mint tablespoon agave nectar teaspoon hot sauce Juice of ½ lime teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste cup ice

1. Add tomatoes, peaches, coconut milk, almonds, cucumber, mint, agave, hot sauce, lime juice, salt and ½ cup ice to a highpowered blender. Blend until very smooth, then season with more salt to taste. 2. Pass through a fine mesh sieve and add water, as needed, to achieve desired consistency. Refrigerate to chill. 3. To serve, pour into margarita glasses. Garnish as desired (see headnote).

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BREAKING BREAD

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Schnitzel and Beef Fry Stuffed Challah Yield: 1 challah

This challah, stuffed with schnitzel and crispy beef fry, reminds me of the most epic schnitzel sandwich ever. And what would Chanukah be without fried and crunchy foods? While I have successfully deep fried challah before (the results were amazing), like most fried foods, it has to be eaten pretty fresh. To get the fried quality without the rush, I created a crust using panko breadcrumbs — the large pieces retain their crunch throughout the baking process, making every bite crispy. N OT E S :

• I prefer using the microwave to cook the beef fry, not only for how quickly it cooks and how crispy it gets, but for the easiest clean up. • Don’t let the apple butter intimidate you. Its mildly sweet flavor does a perfect job balancing out the strong savory flavors of the schnitzel and beef fry. I tried this challah recipe both with and without the apple butter and it makes a tremendous difference. • Store bought schnitzel works well here (such as Meal Mart), but see page 34 for a method for homemade. FO R T H E C H A L L A H :

½ ½

3 1½ ½ ¼

pound beef fry recipe (1½ pounds) Mandylicious Challah Dough (recipe follows), after its first rise pound schnitzel (homemade or store bought), cooled and sliced into 1-inch strips tablespoons apple butter cups panko breadcrumbs teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

whole egg, beaten

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1. Cover a microwave-safe plate with 4 paper towels and arrange beef fry in a single layer on top (you may need to work in batches). Microwave on high for 3 minutes, until crispy. Let cool, then chop into small pieces. 2. Gently knead beef fry into the dough, being sure to incorporate it equally throughout. 3. On a lightly floured surface, roll into three long ropes. Using a rolling pin, roll each rope into a rectangle approximately 10 inches long and 6 inches wide. 4. Leaving a ½-inch border, spread about 1 tablespoon apple butter over each rectangle, then top with strips of schnitzel. From the long edge, gently bring both sides of the dough over the schnitzel, pinch and seal all the way down the strand. Repeat for remaining strands. 5. Mix panko breadcrumbs, salt and garlic powder. Brush each strand liberally with beaten egg, then coat in panko mixture. 6. Gently braid strands together, then place in a greased loaf pan or on a lined baking sheet. Cover with a towel and let rise for 20 minutes in a dark place. 7. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake challah for 45-55 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from pan and let cool on a wire rack.

Mandylicious Challah Dough Yield: 2 challahs N OT E : This recipe calls for instant yeast, which does not require proofing and is added together with the rest of the ingredients. Instant yeast (also known as bread machine yeast) may be used interchangeably. Active dry yeast may be substituted for instant yeast, just be sure to proof it first. While rapid rise and quick rise yeasts are forms of instant yeast, they are not recommended for this recipe. FO R T H E C H A L L A H :

1⅓ 4¼ ⅓ ½ 4 2 1

cups water cups high-quality bread flour cup canola oil cup sugar large egg yolks teaspoons kosher salt tablespoon instant yeast

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water

1. For the challah, add ingredients to a bread machine in the order specified by the manufacturer. Set machine for “dough” cycle. If not using a bread machine, mix all ingredients in a large bowl, then knead well for 5 minutes. Be sure to check that the dough is the right consistency by adding flour or water, one tablespoon at a time, as necessary. Cover with plastic wrap or a towel and let rise in a dark place for 1½ hours. 2. Once dough has risen, remove from the bread machine or bowl and divide into 6 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll 3 portions into long ropes, then carefully braid together. Place in a greased loaf pan or on a greased baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover with a towel and let rise for an additional 20-30 minutes in a dark place. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush with egg wash and bake until golden brown, 30-40 minutes.

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CONSISTENCY OF CHALLAH DOUGH IS KEY! Dough that is too wet will be hard to shape and won’t bake properly. Dough that is too dry will not rise well and taste dense and floury. The goal is to create a cohesive ball of dough that is not floury to the touch. Dough consistency can vary from kitchen to kitchen based on weather, humidity levels and type of flour used. To achieve the proper consistency, simply add flour or water, one or two tablespoons at a time, as the dough comes together before the first rise. If you live in a particularly humid area or find that you have to add a lot of flour, try using ¼ cup less water at first, adding more as necessary.

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BREAKING BREAD

Strawberry Elderflower Babkaniyot

FO R T H E BA B K A D O U G H :

Yield: 12 babkaniyot

Making individual sufganiyot-inspired babkas might be the best Chanukah dessert. Not only are they sensational, but you don’t have to worry about all the frying. Additionally, by having the filling swirled evenly throughout, you don’t have to worry about that unfortunate ooze of filling that is classic to the sufganiyah experience. Instead, you end up with a beautiful, fruit-filled pastry that is coated in a donut-style glaze. N OT E S :

• Feel free to use fruit preserves or chocolate spread as the filling, but this simple elderflower filling lends a unique floral flavor. Elderflower syrup is alcohol-free and can be found in some liquor stores or on Amazon. • To ensure a soft pillowy texture, this babka dough is made using vegetable shortening, but you can use margarine, butter or even oil instead. • Even though the filling is delicious, be sure to use it sparingly. If the dough is filled too much, the strands will not seal properly and will leak.

1¼ 1 ¼ ½ 1 1½ ⅓ 4 2

cup water (may need up to an additional ⅓ cup water if dough appears too dry) teaspoons kosher salt large egg + 1 egg yolk cup margarine or butter, softened and cut into cubes cup vegetable shortening, cut into cubes tablespoon oil tablespoons pure vanilla extract cup sugar cups high-quality bread flour tablespoons instant yeast

FO R T H E ST R AW B E R RY E L D E R F LOW E R F I L L I N G :

1½ 1½ 3½ ¼

tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute pounds fresh or frozen strawberries, sliced tablespoons elderflower syrup, divided Zest and juice of 1 lemon teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water

FO R T H E D O N U T G L A Z E :

2 ¼

cups confectioners’ sugar cup non-dairy milk

1. For the babka dough, add all ingredients with 1 cup water to a bread machine in the order specified by the manufacturer. Set machine for “dough” cycle. If not using a bread machine, mix all ingredients in a large bowl, then knead well for 5-7 minutes. Be sure to check that the dough is the right consistency by adding flour or water, one tablespoon at a time, as necessary. Cover with plastic wrap or a towel and let rise in a dark place for 1½ hours. 2. For the strawberry elderflower filling, add butter to a large saucepan over medium-high heat and cook until melted. Add sliced strawberries and cook until the juices just start to release. Add 2 tablespoons elderflower syrup, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt. Cook down until the strawberries have broken down and become slightly syrupy. Let cool for 5 minutes. Stir in remaining 1½ tablespoons elderflower syrup. Let cool completely. 3. Once dough has risen, remove from the bread machine or bowl and divide into 12 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion into a rope, then using a rolling pin, roll into a rectangle approximately 10 inches long and 4 inches wide. 4. Leaving a ½-inch border, spread a thin layer (about 1½ tablespoons) of filling over each rectangle. From the long edge of the dough, gently roll the dough over the filling, pinching edge to seal. 5. Using a sharp paring knife, cut each strand in half lengthwise (freezing the dough for 10 minutes prior will make this step easier). Lay the halves next to each other, cut side up. Lift one side over the other, twisting the two strands together. Loop the twist and attach it to the other end, pinching to seal into a circle. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough. 6. Cover with a towel and let rise for another 20-30 minutes in a dark place.

Chocolate Babkaniyot - A Shortcut: Follow the recipe above, using chocolate spread instead of the strawberry elderflower filling, for delicious chocolate babkaniyot.

7. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush with egg wash and bake for 20-25 minutes, until set. Let cool for 15 minutes. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. 8. For the glaze, whisk confectioners’ sugar and milk until incorporated. Dip each pastry into the glaze to coat both sides. Place on prepared cooling rack to allow excess glaze to drip off. Let sit for 20 minutes.

Mandy Silverman founded Mandylicious in 2013 in Sharon, MA. Since then, she has created over 300 unique challah and babka recipes and has developed a worldwide following. In addition to selling challah and teaching classes, Mandy loves sharing her recipes and tips, while supporting others who want to make their own challah too. Follow Mandy on Instagram @mandyliciouschallah.

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FOOD TALK

MARC MURPHY

IS A CHEF and restaurateur who has been cooking for over thirty years. The son of a globetrotting diplomat, Marc started his career working in some of the most highly esteemed kitchens in the world, from Paris to Monte Carlo. Today, Marc is one of New York's most celebrated chefs and a judge on Food Network’s top-rated shows — Chopped and Chopped Junior — and has appeared on Guy’s Grocery Games, Guy’s Ranch Kitchen, Beat Bobby Flay, The Rachael Ray Show, Today Show, Good Morning America and more. He is also the author of the cookbook Season with Authority: Confident Home Cooking. Marc’s involvement in the industry moves beyond the kitchen and television. He is both a food council and board member of City Harvest, New York City’s largest food rescue organization and sits on the leadership council for Share our Strength and participates in their No Kid Hungry campaigns. In 2012, he joined the U.S. Department of State’s Diplomatic Culinary Partnership.

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FOOD TALK

How did you get into the food industry?

amazing back note of flavor. Red wine vinegar and good-quality olive oil are both staples as well.

I was a well fed child, surrounded by food. My grandparents were French and I spent many summers with them doing what French retirees do — eating. Dyslexia held me back in school, so after high school, I had no real direction. I ended up crashing on my brother’s couch and repaid him by being his resident handyman and chef. He encouraged me to go to culinary school. Later on, when I opened my first restaurant, Landmarc, I built a lot of the interior myself. The first time I entered a professional kitchen, I felt as though I’d arrived. I loved everything about it, especially that I would never have to wear a suit and tie again! It was the first time I truly succeeded at anything.

What is your favorite brand of olive oil?

Your cookbook title, Season with Authority, is brilliant. What was the inspiration?

What is it like to be a judge on the popular show Chopped?

Inspiration is a strange thing. Someone who reviewed my restaurant wrote, “He seasons with authority.” I loved it, but I had to convince the publishers. I had to push for it because it really describes what defines good dishes. The truth is, if you don’t season pasta water enough, pasta will be bland. When you don't season with authority, there is simply no going back.

What makes a winning recipe? Balance — when the acidity and unctuous levels play together, much like a symphony, the dish will be a success.

What are your top pantry staples? Dijon mustard and anchovies go into everything I cook. Both give an

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I actually get my olive oil from a guy in Umbria, Italy near the town where my brother lives. I buy 150 liters at a time!

Do you have any cooking wisdom to share? Season with authority, of course, and remember that cooking isn’t brain surgery. Don't be afraid to just do it. Also, take a knife skills class!

I started at Chopped in the infancy of Food Network, 12 years ago, which was truly the beginning for me — the exposure was tremendous. I keep in mind that it’s a game show, with the purpose of entertaining, so I don’t care what people think of me. I never rewatch episodes! The great thing about the show is that it educates people to use unique ingredients. The stories of the many cooks who competed on the show are so inspirational.

What are some of the biggest impacts of COVID-19 on the industry? There is this phenomenon of people who never stepped into the kitchen before COVID-19, but after being home for so long, began cooking at home, like a guy I know who works in finance and found it extremely rewarding to cook his own food.

This resulted in diners who are now more discerning about what they eat — many friends now tell me, “I can make it better than a restaurant.” I've also seen a deeper appreciation for restaurants and going out to eat.

How do you handle social media? Personally, social media is a tool that I have to use because of the industry that I am part of. I think of it as part of my job, but I am all about living in the moment, so I don’t get too caught up in it. I used to have someone to do it for me, but it doesn’t work too well and I don't want someone so close to me all the time!

You recently visited Israel — tell us about it! The 10-day trip was organized by Herb Karlitz of Karlitz & Co., the leaders in memorable experiences. The trip was dubbed the “celebrity chef Birthright” that I joined with some esteemed colleagues. You gain such a deep appreciation for people when you eat their food, something I experienced on the trip. I actually visited Israel when I was 12 years old and my most prominent memories from that trip were floating in the Dead Sea and seeing tanks driving by. This time, however, it was all about the food! Israel is a melting pot of cuisine and the produce is strikingly beautiful — peruse the market and you’ll encounter stacks upon stacks of fresh fruits and vegetables.

If you were to create a “Chopped basket,” what would be inside? I would choose non-dairy yogurt, lemon popsicles, canned chickpeas and Italian sausages.

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FOOD TALK

" â

MARC MURPHY

CHOPPED

Challenge

COOK AN ORIGINAL DISH USING THE INGREDIENTS IN MARC’S BASKET FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A SIGNED COPY OF MARC’S COOKBOOK AND A SIGNATURE FLEISHIGS SWAG BAG. Post your creation on Instagram (post or stories) with a description. Be sure to tag @fleishigsmag and @chefmarcmurphy and use #fleishigschoppedchallenge. If you dont have Instagram, email us at hello@fleishigs.com to be entered. May the best creation win!

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By: Adina Silberman ph oto g r aph y BY: S ch n e ur M e nak e r

These sweet and savory donuts are reminiscent of the flavors of my favorite Chinese takeout dishes. Though out-of-the-box, they are worth the effort!

SEASONAL

Basic Donuts Yield: 12-15 donuts

For best results, use an inexpensive thermometer for the oil. If you don’t have one, make sure that the donuts are gently bubbling, but not browning quickly. 2¼ 3 1 ½ 1 1 ½ 3

cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading tablespoons sugar teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon Himalayan pink or kosher salt egg, beaten (¼-ounce) package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons) cup unsweetened non-dairy creamer, slightly warmed tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute, melted Vegetable oil, for kneading and frying Glaze or toppings, as desired (recipes follow)

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, mix flour, sugar, ginger and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk egg, yeast, non-dairy creamer and melted butter. 2. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and mix for 2-3 minutes. Alternatively, mix by hand with a spatula until combined. Dough will be very sticky, but do not add more flour. 3. Pour about 2 tablespoons vegetable oil onto a clean work surface and oil hands as well. Turn dough onto the oiled surface and knead for 8-10 minutes. If it starts to stick to the surface, use a bench scraper to help lift the dough and continue to knead. Alternatively, knead for 8-10 minutes in a mixer fitted with a dough hook. 4. Place dough into a lightly oiled bowl. Cover tightly with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let rise for 1½-2 hours in a warm place until doubled in size. 5. Once dough has risen, turn it onto a lightly floured work surface. Punch down to release any air bubbles. Flour the top of the dough and, using a rolling pin, roll to ½-inch thickness. 6. Set a cooling rack on top of a baking sheet and set aside. Set aside 15 (4x4-inch) squares of parchment paper. 7. Cut donuts using a donut cutter or two cookie cutters (3½-inch for the outer ring and 1-1¼-inch for the inner ring). Place each donut on a square of parchment paper. Use scraps to roll out again and cut more donuts with remaining dough. 8. Cover donuts loosely with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let rise again in a warm place for 20-30 minutes. 9. While donuts are rising, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil in a large pot or Dutch oven to 320°F. Working in batches, slide each donut, with the parchment paper square, into the oil. Gently push the donut into the oil and discard the parchment paper. Fry donuts on both sides until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer donuts to the prepared cooling rack. 10. Glaze donuts while still warm.

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SEASONAL

STICKY SESAME SUFGANIYOT

CHILI GINGER PEANUT SUFGANIYOT

ORANGE CHICKEN SUFGANIYOT WITH CRISPY CHICKEN SKIN

SWEET & SOUR PINEAPPLE SUFGANIYOT

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Orange Chicken Sufganiyot with Crispy Chicken Skin Yield: 12-15 donuts FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

pound chicken skin

FO R T H E D O N U TS :

recipe Basic Donuts (page 74)

FO R T H E G L A Z E :

2 ¼ 1 1 ½ ¼

cups confectioners’ sugar Zest of 1 orange cup + 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice tablespoon soy sauce teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. For the chicken skin topping, wash chicken skin thoroughly and, using kitchen shears, cut into pieces about 3 inches wide. 2. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and side aside. 3. Place chicken skin in a large non-stick skillet, then turn on heat to low. Cover and cook undisturbed for about 15 minutes. Uncover and cook for an additional 45-60 minutes, stirring every 5-10 minutes, until completely crisped and browned. Transfer chicken skin to the prepared cooling rack to cool. 4. Once cooled, place crispy chicken skin into a Ziploc bag and seal. Using a rolling pin, crush into small pieces; set aside. 5. Fry donuts according to the recipe above. 6. For the glaze, whisk ingredients until smooth. While still warm, dip each donut into glaze, flipping with two forks to coat both sides. Place onto the cooling rack and top with crispy chicken skin. Serve immediately.

Sticky Sesame Sufganiyot Yield: 12-15 donuts FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

1 ¼

cup crispy rice cereal cup sesame seeds

FO R T H E D O N U TS :

recipe Basic Donuts (see page 74)

FO R T H E G L A Z E :

2 3

cups confectioners’ sugar tablespoons honey, dissolved in ¼ cup hot water

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2 1 2 1

tablespoons toasted sesame oil tablespoon ketchup teaspoons apple cider vinegar teaspoon kosher salt

7. For the topping, preheat oven to 350°F. Spread cereal and sesame seeds on a parchment-lined baking sheet and toast for 3-5 minutes, until lightly golden. Transfer to a bowl. 8. Set a cooling rack on top of the baking sheet and set aside. 9. Fry donuts according to the recipe above. 10. For the glaze, whisk ingredients together until smooth. While still warm, dip each donut into glaze, flipping with two forks to coat both sides. Place onto the prepared baking sheet and top with rice cereal and sesame mixture. Serve immediately.

3. Place 1 cup of nuts into a Ziploc bag and seal. Using a rolling pin, crush into small pieces; set aside. Remaining nuts can be stored in an airtight container for 2-3 weeks. 4. Fry donuts according to the recipe above. 5. For the glaze, whisk ingredients until smooth. While still warm, dip each donut into glaze, flipping with two forks to coat both sides. Place onto the prepared baking sheet and top with crushed peanuts. Serve immediately.

Sweet & Sour Pineapple Sufganiyot Yield: 12-15 donuts

Yield: 12-15 donuts

E D I TO R’S N OT E : Homemade dehydrated pineapple is such a delicious treat and allows you to create beautiful flower shapes for the topping. However, it can be time consuming. Feel free to substitute with store bought dried or dehydrated pineapple, such as Fruits by Pesha (fruitsbypesha.com).

FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

1 1 1 ½ 1 2

Chili Ginger Peanut Sufganiyot

cup sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon cayenne pepper egg white cups dry roasted peanuts

FO R T H E D O N U TS :

recipe Basic Donuts (page 74)

FO R T H E G L A Z E :

2 3 2 1 2

cups confectioners’ sugar tablespoons honey, dissolved in ¼ cup hot water tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon creamy peanut butter teaspoon Sriracha or other hot sauce teaspoon ground ginger

1. For the topping, preheat oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Mix sugar, salt, ginger and cayenne. In a separate bowl, whisk egg white with 1 tablespoon water until frothy. Add peanuts and spice mixture and toss to coat. Spread in a single layer onto the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 2 hours, tossing every 20 minutes, until nuts are dry and crisp. Once cool enough to handle, break into small pieces, then let cool completely. 2. Set a cooling rack on top of the baking sheet and set aside.

pineapple, peeled but not cored

FO R T H E D O N U TS :

recipe Basic Donuts (page 74)

FO R T H E G L A Z E :

2 ¼ 2 1

cups confectioners’ sugar cup + 1 tablespoon pineapple juice tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon ketchup

1. For the topping, preheat oven to 200°F. Set a cooling rack on top of a baking sheet and set aside. 2. Using a mandoline or very sharp knife, slice pineapple into paper thin slices and pat dry with paper towels. Place sliced pineapple on the prepared cooling rack. Bake for 2-3 hours, until pineapple is dried and crisp on the edges. 3. While still warm, place each pineapple slice into the well of a muffin cup. Let cool completely, until pineapple holds its shape. 4. Fry donuts according to the recipe above. 5. For the glaze, whisk ingredients until smooth. While still warm, dip each donut into glaze, flipping with two forks to coat both sides. Place onto the prepared baking sheet and top with pineapple flowers. Serve immediately.

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SEASONAL

Adina Silberman is a dentist by trade, but has always had a passion for food, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. Adina thinks outside the box and cooks with seasonal ingredients, substituting easily and as needed. She shares techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks transform their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and daughter.

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CHANUKAH FEAST

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CHANUKAH FEAST

WHEN A PAIR OF 16-year-old girls from New Jersey began visiting the homes of

children with special needs in their community, they could never have imagined the colossal organization it would become. Jenine Shwekey and Chaya Bender simply knew that there was a need and that they could help fill that need. It began with volunteering for one neighbor who had twins with Down syndrome and was struggling to care for the babies along with their older children. Soon the girls were being contacted by families who had been suffering quietly for years, buckling under the pressure of caring for their children without any respite, all while feeling unable to ask for the help they desperately needed due to the deeply ingrained stigma attached. It wasn't long before Jenine and Chaya realized the need was far greater than anything these two high school girls could provide alone. “If we somehow could get an apartment and have the kids come to us instead, we could quadruple the amount of families we can help!” thought Jenine. After finding an apartment that had been on the market for a while, the pair was connected with a wealthy donor who they hoped would help finance the expense. “We were psyched, we couldn’t wait,” recalls Chaya. “We thought all our dreams were about to come true.” The girls sat down in the donor’s stately study and described the desperate need they had seen and all of their grand ideas to help those families, only to be told to come back as adults with degrees in hand in order to be taken seriously. “We walked out of there so embarrassed, so upset and so full of fire,” says Jenine. “So we decided that instead of trying to raise money, we’d go straight to the owner of the property and just ask him. Once we explained what we wanted to do with the apartment, he took out the keys, handed them to us and said, ‘Girls, it’s all yours.’”

BY: CHANA Z. WEISS

25 years later, The Special Children’s Center has blossomed into a multipronged operation with a $12 million annual budget, serving over 500 families. Hundreds of children with special needs attend after school programs in Lakewood, Deal and Brooklyn, where they experience music, art and games, then are given dinner, showered and prepared for bed before returning home for the evening in their pajamas. A day care for babies and toddlers as well as a preschool provides a warm and loving place to receive care and sometimes hours and hours of therapy. There is also a Sunday program, a Shabbat house, a day camp and a residential facility where children can spend a few nights or a weekend to provide some much-needed respite or even a few months upon the birth of a new baby in the family. After years of back-and-forth with the state, The Special Children’s Center was the first to open a full-time kosher residential group home, which now includes five locations. “What sets us apart is not just the services we provide, but the energy we bring to everything we do,” says Jenine. “We have hundreds of volunteers and many, many more on the waiting list who want to join. We’ve changed the whole face of what working with the special needs community can look like when you infuse it with love, energy and fun. You have to experience it to understand the magic we create.” A fashion show fundraiser last year had the children getting their hair and makeup done by professionals and then walking the runway, an experience they would not soon forget. “Our organization may have grown,” NOVEMBER 2021

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CHANUKAH FEAST

Chaya Bender, Jenine Shwekey, Poopa Dweck and The Special Children's Center member Olivia Amos

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CHANUKAH FEAST

adds Jenine, “but our values have never changed. We’re not a business, we’re just some women looking to do chesed (kindness) for the community and help as many people as possible.” To this day, Jenine and Chaya are the powerhouse founders who keep the organization running, along with the support of their families and community. Jenine’s husband, international superstar Yaakov Shwekey, has spent countless hours singing with the children and released a smash hit titled “I Can Be” as an anthem and fundraiser for the center, with lyrics epitomizing their inspiring mantra: “I can be stronger, I can be braver, I can be anything, anything I wanna be. I have the power, I have the courage, I am a hero. Everything I need is inside of me.” A sold-out concert this past August drew over 6,000 people to the beach in Deal, NJ, featuring the debut of Shwekey’s new song “Fighter,” which was written together with Yaakov Neuman, a young man from the center, echoing the message that with courage and belief, we all have the inner strength to be fighters and never give up. The Special Children’s Center is primarily supported by generous friends and community members who have built a relationship with the organization and its founders. As a gesture of appreciation, Chaya often delivers her signature homemade chicken liver to many of their friends and donors — while the community is made up of mostly Syrian Jews who ordinarily would never have such a classic Ashkenazi dish on their table, “everyone goes crazy for Chaya’s chopped liver,” says Jenine. One Friday morning, a friend and generous donor named Jack joked, “Thanks, but you know, what I really want is kibbeh. When you make me kibbeh with your own two hands, I’ll give you $50,000.” It may have been intended as a joke, but Chaya took it seriously, enlisting the help of Jenine and “the queen of maza” Esther Arking. “Asking an Ashkenaz to make kibbeh is almost impossible,” laughs Jenine. “But Chaya was determined to get it done and to do it with her own two hands, just as Jack had requested.” They picked up the ingredients and immediately got to work, documenting the process on Instagram Live and quickly garnering viewers who wanted to join in the fun. Since Chaya’s famous chopped liver was already on hand, Fleishigs founder Shlomo Klein dropped a suggestion in the comment box: What about stuffing kibbeh with chopped liver (a delicacy Shlomo is known for) for the ultimate fusion of Sephardic and Ashkenazi cuisine? Half an hour before Shabbat, Chaya was at Jack’s

door with fresh liver-stuffed kibbeh, made with her own two hands. “I may have meant it as a joke, but a word is a word! The moment I hung up the phone, I knew you would take me seriously,” said Jack as soon as he saw the freshly-fried delicacies. News of the $50,000 liver-stuffed kibbeh spread like wildfire, with everyone clamoring for a taste, including businessman Harry Adjmi, who conducted a taste test and rated it 100/100. “It became such a hype — wherever we went, someone asked about the liver kibbeh,” says Jenine. After connecting with Fleishigs over the livestream, Jenine and Chaya knew they had to celebrate the success of the liver kibbeh collaboration by joining forces for a maza party, featuring an assortment of fried Syrian appetizers like lachmagine and multiple types of kibbeh, perfect for Chanukah. Of course there was a showdown between Chaya’s and Shlomo’s versions of chopped liver. “It was a true meeting of cultures — the old and new, the Sephardic and the Ashkenazi,” says Chaya. Renowned Syrian cookbook author Poopa Dweck joined to demonstrate the authentic method her grandmother used to form kibbeh back in Syria (see more on page 87), using her hands to form the oblong shape instead of a stick. (While maza is usually made from scratch, you can easily replicate the results by purchasing frozen pre-made kibbeh to fry fresh at home.) Jenine’s husband Yaakov Shwekey stopped in to sample the fried treats as well and shared his favorite accompaniments — tahini (an essential!) and avocado. Also on the maza-making team was Olivia, a young woman who started attending The Special Children’s Center as a child and now works with the organization. “As children with special needs become adults, employment can become a big challenge. It’s so important to give adults with special needs a place to work, where they can feel like a valuable part of society.” True to that mission, the new state-ofthe-art facility will feature a café that will employ many of the adults in their program, creating a meaningful place for so many to finally feel like they belong. To learn more about The Special Children’s Center or to donate, visit thecenternj.org. Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

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International superstar Yaakov Shwekey and The Special Children's Center member Meir Rosenthal

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CHANUKAH FEAST

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CHANUKAH FEAST

Salata Banadoura (Fresh Tomato Salad with Allspice Lemon Dressing)

MAZA Excerpted from Aromas of Aleppo by Poopa Dweck

Serves: 4-6 Recipe reprinted with permission from Aromas of Aleppo by Poopa Dweck

This recipe celebrates the essence of the tomato — the fruity juiciness and deep earthy tones that helped this New World fruit forever transform the cuisines of the Mediterranean. The best tomatoes are seasonal, plump yet firm and locally grown (if you have some in your garden, even better). The preparation is exceedingly simple and accentuates the beauty of the fruit. Allspice, the principal flavoring accent in the dish, is called b’har helous in Arabic, meaning “sweet pepper,” because its subtle flavor suggests the spiciness of cloves and the sweet notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. 4-6

tomatoes, cored and cut into 2-inch chunks

D R E SS I N G :

MAZA DISHES RANGE from cold salads such

as saltit banjan (smoky eggplant salad with garlic and parsley) and bazargen (tangy tamarind bulgur salad) to hors d’oeuvretype foods, such as kibbeh niye (raw beef bulgur patties) laham b’ajeen (miniature tamarind minced meat pies) and kuaisat (pistachio-filled ground meat shells). Some of these dishes, such as saltit batat (lemony allspice-cumin potato salad), are very simple to prepare, whereas others, such as kibbeh nabelsieh (golden ground meatfilled bulgur shells), require the skill of an artisan to perfect. Two or three maza dishes can serve as a prelude to a meal or you can combine many of them for a complete meal. These dishes are best served family-style in a casual setting with several loaves of warm Syrian flatbread and a bottle of high-quality arak (Syrian anisette). For Aleppian Jews, maza dishes achieve their greatest glory during the sebbit, the festive Sabbath luncheon held in the home or the synagogue to celebrate a life cycle event with family, friends, and fellow congregants. The hungry and exuberant celebrants typically encounter ten to twenty maza dishes throughout the course of the sebbit. Although these recipes include an approximate yield, it is difficult to quantify the yield for many maza recipes because there is no standard portion size for most of these dishes. A given recipe can feed anywhere from four to fourteen guests, depending on each guest’s appetite and the composition of the rest of the meal. 86

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1 ½ ½ 1 ½

Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons) tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon Aleppo pepper or ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper teaspoon kosher salt small red onion, sliced (optional)

1. Put the tomatoes in a medium mixing bowl. 2. To make the dressing, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, allspice, Aleppo pepper and salt in a small mixing bowl and mix thoroughly. Pour the dressing over the tomatoes. Add the onions, if desired. Toss until the tomatoes are coated with the dressing.

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Kibbeh Nabelsieh (Meat-Filled Bulgur Shells) Recipe reprinted with permission from Aromas of Aleppo by Poopa Dweck Yield: 3-4 dozen

Laham B’ Ajeen (Tamarind Minced Meat Pies)

DOUGH:

Yield: 4 dozen

4 1 2¾

Recipe reprinted with permission from Aromas of Aleppo by Poopa Dweck

In Aleppo, the pies were originally prepared on 10-inch rounds of bread and taken to the furn — the local communal oven. These large pizzalike meat pies were prepared as a wrap and were considered a traditional fast food snack. In Aleppo, the blessings over bread was always said over a large laham b’ajeen because of its greater dough content. The bite-sized laham b’ajeen in this recipe were introduced by the Brooklyn Aleppian Jewish community and were never prepared in the old country. Nowadays, laham b’ajeen may be as small as 2-inches in diameter with one lone pine nut in the middle. Laham b’ajeen freezes nicely raw or cooked and is a staple in every Syrian woman’s freezer, especially Grandma’s. Children from the age of one are introduced to laham b’ajeen and love its tangysour flavor, which makes it a favorite for life.

cups all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt teaspoons active dry yeast, dissolved in ¾ cup warm water tablespoons vegetable oil

M E AT TO P P I N G :

2 3

1 ½

pounds ground beef onions, finely chopped and squeezed of excess liquid (6-ounce) can tomato paste Juice of 2 lemons (about 6 tablespoons) cups tamarind concentrate (homemade or store bought) tablespoon ground allspice tablespoon kosher salt cup vegetable oil Pine nuts, for garnish (optional)

1. To make the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the dissolved yeast and mix well. Add the vegetable oil and mix again. Gradually add 1 cup of warm water, kneading until a soft dough is formed.

4 pieces. Roll each piece of dough until

2. Cover with a clean towel and let rest in a place warmer than room temperature for 1 hour.

6. Place the rounds on greased baking

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

tablespoon of meat filling on each round,

4. To make the topping, combine the beef, onion, tomato paste, lemon juice, tamarind, allspice and salt. Mix well.

7. Bake the pies for 15-20 minutes, until

5. Retrieve the dough and separate into

Kibbeh nabelsieh is one of the great classics of Syrian cuisine: crisp, toothsome, golden torpedo-shaped bulgur shells filled with delicately spiced ground beef (tadbileh) or other savory fillings. The word kibbeh or kubeba means "dome" in Arabic. These rounded delights are a staple of the maza table. Some sebbits, which are festive Sabbath luncheons, do not truly begin until the tray of kibbeh is passed around. Do as the sebbit revelers do: bite off the top of the kibbeh and squeeze the juice of a lemon wedge into the filling or swipe the kibbeh into a bowl of tehineh. While eating kibbeh is a simple pleasure, making it from scratch is a difficult skill to master. In fact, a certain mystique is attached to the art of kibbeh-making. The women of Aleppo were renowned throughout the Middle East for their skill in shaping the delicate shell. In the olden days, it was said that a woman could not marry unless she could make kibbeh and women with especially long, slender fingers held much promise as kibbeh-makers. A woman's kibbeh-making ability was the touchstone by which she was evaluated as a hostess and homemaker; a praiseworthy “kibbeh finger” represented the highest form of refinement and elegance.

it is as thin as possible, without tearing it. Using a cookie cutter, or anything similar, cut dough into small rounds, 3-4 inches in diameter. sheets that have been brushed generously with vegetable oil. Spread a heaping pressing it in firmly. the crust is golden brown. Garnish with pine nuts, if desired.

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Though the busy women of today are able to use food processors instead of pounding the meat and rice with a mortar and pestle, they are still devoted to making kibbeh in all its variations. Grandmothers, mothers and daughters stand together by a work surface, communing with one another and sharing family news as they each play their part in the kibbeh-making process. In earlier times, it was a mark of achievement to make the biggest kibbehs possible (some could be as long as 6-10 inches), but nowadays they are generally bite-sized (3-4 inches). One "kibbeh line" of two to three expert women can make about 300 stuffed shells in an hour. Because kibbeh merely refers to the shape of a food, you will encounter more delicious renditions of kibbeh in Aromas of Aleppo, such as kibbeh niye (Raw Beef Bulgur Patties), kibbeh neye w’khidrawat (Vegetarian Bulgur Patties), kibbeh hamdah (Lemon-Mint Broth with Mixed Vegetables and Syrian Meatballs), kibbeh b'fettair (Mushrooms and Sautéed Meatballs), bizeh b'kibbeh (Green Peas with Allspice and Meat), kibbeh b'garaz (Sweet Cherry-Stuffed Beef Slices), kibbeh kabir (Aleppian Soup Meatballs) and kibbeh yahniyeh (Beef-Bulgur Dumplings). Yes, that's quite a lot of kibbeh, but what can we say? Syrians are crazy about their meat and want it every which way! 2 1 3 2 3 1 ½ 3

tablespoons ground cumin tablespoon kosher salt cups fine bulgur (cracked wheat), rinsed in cold water and drained teaspoons paprika tablespoons vegetable oil, plus additional for frying cup unsalted matzah meal tablespoon Aleppo pepper or ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper pounds tadbileh filling (spiced meat filling, recipe follows) cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the work surface

stirring the mixture to form a moist but firm dough.

Tadbileh Filling

2. Shape the dough into small balls about 1 inch in diameter. Burrow your index finger into the middle of each ball and, with your other hand, shape the dough into a long, hollow torpedo-like shape, about 3 inches long. Keep a small bowl of water nearby to moisten your hands to prevent sticking. Cover dough with a towel while working. Add additional water in small increments, if needed, to maintain a moist, firm dough.

E D I TO R’S N OT E : Kibbeh stuffings vary from meat to vegan (using mushrooms). Once you master the technique of stuffing kibbeh, you can get creative with the fillings. See page 78 for the story on the “$50,000 kibbeh,” which we stuffed with liver, to raise money for The Special Children’s Center.

3. Using a narrow spoon, such as an icedtea spoon, fill the bulgur shell with the tadbileh filling. Pinch the rim of the filled shell closed, forming a blunt point. Make sure that no meat is attached to the outside of the shell, as it is a mark of an inelegant kibbeh. At this point, you can freeze the kibbehs in a dish or plastic container for later use. 4. In a deep fryer or a hot pan filled with 2-3 inches of oil, fry the kibbehs over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes or until golden, turning to cook evenly. If pan frying, use a splatter guard to prevent hot oil from burning your skin. 5. If there is any leftover dough, do not throw it away. You can simply add a chopped onion and flatten the pieces into silver dollar-sized pancakes. These are called urus. Fry these in the same oil for delicious bite-size treats that kids go crazy for.

1 1 1 1 ¼ 1

large onion, chopped tablespoon vegetable oil pound ground beef teaspoon ground allspice cup pine nuts teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a medium skillet, sauté the onions in the vegetable oil over mediumhigh heat until the onions are soft, about 3 minutes. 2. Add the meat and continue sautéing, constantly breaking it up with a fork, for about 9 minutes, or until all but 1 teaspoon of liquid has been absorbed and the meat has fully browned. Let cool. 3. Add the allspice, pine nuts and salt. TA D B I L E H E M PA N A DAS : Fill empanada dough rounds (3 inches in diameter) with 1 tablespoon tadbileh filling. Fold and crimp, then deep fry until golden brown.

1. Combine the bulgur, matzah meal, flour, cumin, paprika, Aleppo pepper, salt and vegetable oil in a large bowl. Mix by hand or with a spatula. Gradually add 2-3 cups lukewarm water in a thin stream as needed,

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Chaya’s Liver Yield: 2 pounds

Syrian-Inspired Kale Salad By: Chaya Bender

Chaya Bender, one of the founders of The Special Children’s Center (see more on page 78), graciously shared her liver recipe that was used to fill the “$50,000 kibbeh.” N OT E : Chaya’s liver is a rustic, chunkier style. However, feel free to blend it to reach the desired consistency.

1 2 1½ 3 2-3

cup vegetable oil onions, chopped pounds broiled chicken livers, finely chopped hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.

Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

The addition of allspice seasoned green beans adds something unique to a classic kale salad. N OT E : Blanching vegetables is a basic skill that quickly cooks vegetables, while still retaining their bright color; it only takes a minute or two. Just be sure to have a bowl of ice water on hand and immediately transfer the vegetables to stop the cooking process. Alternatively, you can steam the green beans.

¼ 1½ ½ 1 1 ¾ 1 ¼ 1 1

cup + 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided Juice of 2 lemons teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon Aleppo pepper bunch kale, stems discarded tablespoon nutritional yeast pound green beans, blanched clove garlic, minced teaspoon allspice cup grape tomatoes small beet, julienned

2. Add onions and fry until deeply golden brown, about 20 minutes.

1. To make vinaigrette, whisk ¼ cup olive oil, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and Aleppo pepper. Massage kale with 2 tablespoons vinaigrette and nutritional yeast.

3. Mix in chicken livers, eggs and salt. Taste and add more salt as needed.

2. Toss blanched green beans with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, remaining ½ teaspoon kosher salt, garlic and allspice. Add to kale with tomatoes and beets. 3. Drizzle more vinaigrette over salad.

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BY: SHI F RA KL EI N

CAPTURING THE RICH HERITAGE

and recipes of Syrian Jews was a task that Poopa Dweck didn’t take lightly. After six years of compiling historical data, researching the spiritual significance of Syrian Jewish customs and diligently testing each recipe so that it would be approachable and reliable, Aromas of Aleppo: The Legendary Cuisine of Syrian Jews was published in 2007 by Ecco, an imprint of HarperCollins. Beyond the fact that the book is well researched and written, it is also beautiful and provides readers a window into the unique flavor, stories and customs of Syrian Jews.

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PROFILE

SYRIAN

Jews date back to the days of King David and have settled in three different cities throughout various times in Syria — a small minority in Qamishli and large populations in both Damascus and Aleppo. Each city is vastly different in culture, location and language and has resulted in subtle differences amongst recipes from the ‘Old Country.’ For example, tamarind is a staple in Aleppo cuisine for its tangy and sour flavor, but in Damascus pomegranate molasses is used instead. Poopa’s roots go back hundreds of years to Aleppo. Therefore, the cuisine and customs of Aleppo were the primary influences of the book. After Poopa’s parents were married, they moved to Italy, where Poopa and her sister were born. From there they moved to Paris, then New York. Growing up, Poopa had a firsthand view of her mother’s cooking and developed a tremendous amount of love and awe for the food and traditions her mother demonstrated in her daily life. “My mother was renowned as a phenomenal cook and she taught me everything. All the women from the Old Country were phenomenal cooks,” Poopa shares. While cooking was in the DNA of those who grew up in the Old Country, it was a challenge to hand down the recipe to the newer generation growing up outside of Syria. A grandmother's “handful of this and pinch of that” was hard to follow precisely and, outside of Syria, women didn’t spend as much time in the kitchen as they used to. Poopa was motivated by a desire to document not only the recipes of her mother and grandmothers, but also to chronicle the traditions of each holiday. Beyond recipes, you will find blessings and their meanings for holidays like Passover, Sukkot and Rosh Hashana, making Aromas of Aleppo more than just a compilation of recipes that provides physical sustenance but also one filled with spiritual sustenance as well. The book is also full of facts and details -- like how the Jews of Syria were the ones who introduced eggplant to Italy and how candied eggplant was used as a way to preserve eggplant for years or decades -- that make it a fascinating read. When asked how her book was received, however, Poopa doesn’t mention that it was featured in the New York Times Magazine or that it was the winner of the National Jewish Book Award in 2007. Rather, she speaks of how the grandmothers in her community “crushed her with gratefulness” due to its accurate portrayal and living archive of Syrian Jews’ rich supply of recipes. “I don’t own this cuisine,” Poopa humbly states, “I feel blessed that God gave me the opportunity to be the messenger.” Documenting and preserving the food of Syrian Jews is a huge way of preserving traditions through generations. Many businessmen purchased a few copies of the book and gifted them to colleagues as an expression of sharing who they were. Due to her work, Poopa has been featured in a film put out by The Sephardic Heritage Museum, entitled The Syrian Jewish Community: Our Journey Through History, 94

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PROFILE

Poopa’s Cooking Tips: STAPLE INGREDIENTS:

• • • •

Tamarind Allspice berries Cracked wheat/bulgur Semolina

TIPS:

It’s most important to use fresh ingredients, something I am a stickler about. I prefer to grind my spices fresh, such as allspice berries and toasted cumin seeds. I use a dedicated coffee grinder for grinding my spices. I'm all about pickling and preserving foods. When hard-to-find ingredients like quince or fava beans are in season, I peel and freeze a whole bunch. Sometimes I’ll steam the fava beans first and then freeze.

Future of Syrian Cuisine:

which premiered in Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall. Poopa was presented The Women of Honor Award by Shaare Zedek Medical Center in Jerusalem at Sotheby’s in New York. In 2004, a stunning hardcover Hebrew-language edition of the book was published and garnered great success. Poopa’s resume of cooking demonstrations and lectures include universities such as Yale and UCLA. She has been interviewed on NPR and London’s BBC with Claudia Rodin, among others. “We have different Syrian communities dispersed around the world,” Poopa shares. “I was

fortunate to travel around the globe to communities in Shanghai, Beijing, Istanbul, Colombia, Israel and Panama, for example, and I cooked for hundreds of people at their synagogues and fundraisers. They are so grateful to have the book because it keeps them all connected no matter where in the world they are. When I cooked in Bogota, I had men come over with tears in their eyes explaining how they were reminded of the dishes their mothers made. It helped the community globally,” she expressed. Out of all her success with Aromas of Aleppo, that’s the most important aspect of all.

Syrian cuisine is adapting to new health outlooks, such as replacing some of the ingredients with more nutritional ones without changing the traditional aspect. For example, we make a pudding called almosia; instead of using cornstarch, I replace it with arrowroot, which is more nutritious. I also tend to use more nutritious flours instead of white flour in some applications and maple syrup or raw honey instead of white sugar. I am currently working on my second book, which will focus a lot more on these updates. NOVEMBER 2021

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Every month we celebrate the making of the next issue with a group of likeminded guests. It’s an opportunity to gather, socialize, eat and talk about new topics in food, while simultaneously receiving instant feedback on the recipes and stories that make it into Fleishigs. In late August, we spent a memorable evening at MEAT NY, located in the Crown Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn, to discuss the latest trends in kosher fine dining.

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EAT NY was spearheaded by famed kosher restaurateur Danny Branover, who revolutionized the kosher dairy dining scene with the opening of Basil Pizza & Wine Bar in 2011. Between the menu (developed by original Executive Chef Moshe Wendel), design, location and overall ambiance, Basil introduced a whole new concept of dairy dining to the kosher audience. MEAT NY, which took five years from conception to opening, was designed to do for meat what Basil did for dairy. THE INNOVATIVE MENU was created by Executive Chef Reem Look. Originally from Jerusalem, he worked as a chef in some of Israel’s finest restaurants, from the Herbert Samuel Hotel to King’s Garden at the King David Hotel in Jerusalem, among other five-star restaurants. Chef Reem explains that while the menu at MEAT NY inevitably has a lot of Mediterranean influences, it is mostly a compilation of his favorite flavors and dishes that are aimed at creating a memorable fine dining experience. W H AT M A K E S F I N E D I N I N G “ WO RT H I T ?”

When spending money on a good night out, there are many factors that, pooled together, ensure a successful evening out. This was a hot topic around the table and everyone agreed that there are at least three essential elements that need to come together: good food, ambience and great service — a trifecta that, if achieved, is sure to make the night “worth it.” On top of that, if the restaurant also manages to offer something memorable and unique, perhaps a surprise factor, that’s an added benefit.

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Finding a high-end kosher restaurant on the outskirts of Crown Heights may seem unexpected, but when Basil opened, it was considered off the beaten path. Today, like most expanding Orthodox neighborhoods in Brooklyn, Basil is now very much a part of the Jewish neighborhood. Time will tell if the Jewish neighborhood will expand as far as MEAT’s location — Kingston Avenue and Bergen Street.

This private dining room sports an exposed brick accent wall with living ivy and historic Brooklyn influences in a modern glass ceiling. Every part of the restaurant was designed with intention, from the lighting and decor to the dishes and tables. Even the bathroom is worth a look — the custom black and white wallpaper that adorns the walls is in perfect contrast with the red marble sink. The whole vibe at MEAT is a celebration of the past moving into the future.

AMBIANCE AND DESIGN

C O C KTA I LS A N D BA R

Guests are greeted by the maître d', Soom, whose demeanor makes everyone feel welcome. The front of the restaurant is outfitted with a modern, elegant bar and intimate lounge with seating. A narrow walkway leads into the first main dining room that has floor-to-ceiling windows. Within the dining room is a staircase leading down to the open kitchen and aging room — we highly recommend that you request a tour, they would be happy to accomodate. Our guests were led into MEAT’s back dining room, which acts as a party room or extra seating on busy nights.

MEAT dedicated a large portion of the space to a full bar and there is a dedicated mixologist on staff, which further enhances the fine dining experience. The cocktail menu uses fresh and interesting, sometimes seasonal, ingredients. Fleishigs contributor Chana Z. Weiss is passionate about cocktails and enjoyed the Pomegranate Molasses, made with pomegranate molasses, vodka, lime, grenadine and fresh basil. Another popular choice of the evening was the Lady in Red, made with honey whiskey, muddled strawberries, strawberry purée and lime. There is also an extensive wine list available.

LO CAT I O N , LO CAT I O N , LO CAT I O N !

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M E N U A N D FO O D

W E T AG E D VS. D RY AG E D

The starters were already set on the tables as the guests arrived and included platters of homemade charcuterie; beef carpaccio; flaky sambusak filled with top of the rib, chickpeas and hummus; kubenia (a Mediterraneaninspired spiced beef tartare with bulgur); succulent lamb tongue; marinated olives; various dips; and fresh heirloom tomato salad with soft boiled egg and kalamata olives. Ilana Carmili of popular Instagram blog @nycfood declared, “If you think all kosher food is boring or bland, you’re eating at the wrong places! Restaurants like MEAT show how far kosher dining has come and how amazing it can be.” The kubenia was truly phenomenal; while tartare shows up on the menu of many high-end kosher restaurants, this one was unique in its texture and flavors — very finely chopped meat mixed with bulgur for texture, sweet and sour tamarind for balance, set on a pool of tahini and extra-virgin olive oil for richness, show the potential of what a beef tartare can be. The waitstaff were attentive, friendly and present, which only enhanced the experience. The mains arrived, which included homemade gnocchi with roasted cauliflower, charred tomatoes and sunchoke purée; homemade pappardelle with pulled lamb and butternut squash sauce; and some incredible steaks (see following section) served with house-made ketchup and crispy fingerling potatoes. A simple, but well executed, salad made with mixed greens, endive and red quinoa tossed with a light vinaigrette accompanied the mains. Cookbook author Miriam Pascal Cohen shared how the salad, though simple, impressed her the most. “It’s the finer details in a restaurant that show its true colors,” she expressed.

MEAT is famous for their wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, which are both served with a side of bone marrow. It was fun to compare the flavors and textures of the two different methods of prime rib. Wet aging is when the meat is covered entirely in tallow (beef fat) and left to age for 45 days. All of the flavor from the fat absorbs into the meat, giving it a distinct juicy flavor from the inside out. The more common dry aging is when meat is left uncovered in a temperature-controlled aging room, resulting in a condensed beef flavor. The fat becomes richer and the meat becomes more tender. While we enjoyed both preparations, the room was split between the two preparations.

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V EG E TA B L E FO RWA R D C O O K I N G

“If you think all kosher food is boring or bland, you’re eating at the wrong places!” -Ilana Carmili @nycfood

Recently, Eleven Madison Park, one of the most expensive (non-kosher) fine-dining restaurants in the United States, announced that they are transitioning to an entirely plant-based menu. Eleven Madison Park is known in the mainstream culinary world as a “teaching restaurant” and many chefs look to it to determine the trajectory of their own establishments. Eleven Madison Park has predicted many trends in the past; with this news, they have officially declared that meat as a focus is out and vegetables are in. While this doesn’t mean that meat is off the menu, it does speak to the shift in the focus on what occupies the majority of our plates (as discussed in the Sukkos issue). Vegetables are taking a stronger stance and playing a larger role on our menus. It was interesting to experience this trend at MEAT, as we were served many vegetables-centric dishes with precision and elegance. The gnocchi, a big hit of the night, was completely vegan. The balance between the fluffy potato gnocchi, the rich purée, roasted www.fleishigs.com

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SA M B U SA K

L A M B TO N G U E

ROAST E D CAU L I F LOW E R W I T H S M O K E D EG G P L A N T

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MEAT NY's aging room

cauliflower and charred tomatoes created a perfectly balanced dish. The fresh heirloom tomato salad was another vegetarian dish that showcased how inventive produce can be. Even the pulled lamb pappardelle had a butternut squash sauce that was sweet and savory and pulled the dish together beautifully. This vegetable-centric approach is actually of tremendous value to the kosher cook. Keeping kosher at a basic level involves not combining milk and meat. Meat restaurants have the challenge (most chefs’ worst nightmare) of cooking without butter and cream, which provide a richness to sauces that is hard to match from other sources of

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“It’s the finer details in a restaurant that show its true colors.” -Miriam Pascal Cohen @overtimecook

fat. Utilizing vegetables to replace the butter and cream is a surprisingly ideal option. Cookbook author Naomi Nachman summed it up well. “The name MEAT truly represents the restaurant, with the unique wet-aged steak at the forefront. However, tonight’s dinner showed that MEAT is capable of so much more than that — the fresh tomato salad was outrageous and I kept going back for more. The balance was one of the best I’ve seen from a kosher restaurant.”

MEAT NY is located at 123 Kingston Ave, Brooklyn, NY. For reservations, call (516) 888-1730 or visit their website at meatny.com.

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C H A RC U T E R I E B OA R D

B R E A DS & S P R E A DS

Shlomo Klein and David Mosberg digging into the wet-aged ribeye

Manager Bryan Camacho

BEEF KU B E N I A

TO M ATO SA L A D

B E E F CA R PAC C I O

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Elisheva Taitz, Malkie Hirsch & Naomi Nachman

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GNOCCHI W I T H ROAST E D CAU L I F LOW E R & SU N C H O K E C R E A M

D RY-AG E D RIBEYE

B U T T E R N U T SQ UAS H TAG L I AT E L L E W I T H PULLED LAMB

HOUSE GREEN SA L A D

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MEAT NY's aging room

Lillian Beyda, Adele Massry & Jenine Shwekey

Ilana & Michelle Carmili

Miriam Pascal Cohen

Gabriel Boxer

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Sunchoke Cream

Gnocchi with Roasted Cauliflower and Sunchoke Cream Serves: 8

Yields: 3 cups By: Shifra Klein

It’s ironic that one of the hits of the night was actually a vegetarian dish that I knew I had to recreate. Make no mistake, the wet- and dryrubbed steaks were outrageous and unique, but the beauty of MEAT NY is the menu’s balance, as evidenced by this delicious side dish. Use prepared, pantry-stable gnocchi (such as Tuscanini) for convenience. 3 ¼ 2 1 2

beefsteak tomatoes, cut into wedges cup + 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided head cauliflower, cut into florets (or a 16-ounce bag frozen) (16-ounce) packages gnocchi, such as Tuscanini Sunchoke Cream (recipe follows) Garlic Breadcrumbs (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to broil. Toss tomatoes with 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil for 3-5 minutes, until slightly charred on the outside. 2. Turn oven to 400°F. Toss cauliflower with 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, until tender. 3. In the meantime, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook gnocchi for 3 minutes (or according to package directions). Drain well. 4. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and pan fry boiled gnocchi for 2-4 minutes, tossing halfway through, until lightly golden brown. 5. Toss gnocchi with warmed sunchoke cream. Transfer to a platter and top with roasted cauliflower, broiled tomatoes and garlic breadcrumbs. 108

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By: Adina Schlass

This cream only has a few ingredients, but packs tons of flavor. Its smooth texture makes it the perfect accompaniment to any protein or a sauce for vegetarian or vegan dishes. If you can’t find sunchokes, feel free to use white cabbage, cauliflower or fennel. N OT E : Sunchokes are also called Jerusalem artichokes, though they have no relation to Jerusalem or artichokes. They are, in fact, a tuberous root vegetable high in iron and potassium that resembles fresh ginger but tastes like a cross between a potato and an artichoke heart.

Add 15-20 sunchokes, 3 garlic cloves and 3 fresh thyme sprigs to a pot; fill halfway with water (sunchokes should not be completely submerged). Generously salt the water. Bring to a boil and cook, covered, until sunchokes are fork tender. Discard thyme. Drain and transfer to a high-powered blender or food processor. With the motor running, drizzle in ⅓ cup olive oil. Blend for at least 8 minutes, until creamy and velvety. Season with salt to taste.

Garlic Breadcrumbs Yield: 1 cup

Mix 1 cup panko breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 2-3 minced garlic cloves, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Toast in a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat, tossing frequently, for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown. Alternatively, spread on a baking sheet and toast in a 350°F oven for 5-8 minutes, tossing halfway through, until golden brown. www.fleishigs.com

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Strawberry Sabayon Serves: 4

By: Shifra Klein

By the end of the night, everyone was so satisfied. I was pleasantly surprised to be served such a light dessert — a delicious warm sabayon served with a simple compote. It was the perfect ending to the meal. The contrast between the warm custard and the cold compote was delightful. N OT E : Cooking the custard gently and patiently over a water bath (also known as bain-marie) allows the hot water to gently cook the contents of the bowl.

4 ⅓ ¾

egg yolks cup sugar cup semi dry white wine Strawberry Compote (recipe follows)

1. Create a water bath by simmering about 2-3 cups of water in a medium pot and placing a heatproof bowl over the pot of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. 2. Mix egg yolks, sugar and wine in the bowl until smooth. Place bowl over pot of simmering water and using a whisk, mix for 8-10 minutes until custard like consistency develops. Serve over fresh fruit or strawberry compote. Serve immediately. D R E SS I T U P: Serve in individual ramekins and lightly toast the surface with a blowtorch.

Strawberry Compote Yield: 3 cups N OT E : If using frozen fruit, you may need to add a little more cornstarch to help it thicken. Stir well and remove from heat. While the compote is delicious with the sabayon, it’s also wonderful on its own or served over ice cream and crunchy granola.

Add 1 pound frozen or fresh strawberries, 3 tablespoons sugar and 3 tablespoons lemon juice to a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer until strawberries soften and liquid thickens, 5-10 minutes. Dissolve 2 tablespoons cornstarch in 1-2 tablespoons warm water and add to saucepan. Stir and let thicken for another minute. Remove from heat. Taste and add sugar, 1 teaspoon at a time, as needed. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. NOVEMBER 2021

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BY: GIL A & MEN AHEM RAP OP ORT

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h TRAVEL

HAVING VISITED GUATEMALA three times has given me the opportunity to travel throughout this amazing country. Our most recent visit was in February, where my husband and I went for three days following our wedding in Orlando. Due to my obvious obsession with this country, it was mandatory to take him the first chance I could. Guatemala has a pleasant climate year-round, with temperatures between 72°F and 90°F. However, it also has a rainy season, which spans from May to October. The best time to visit is during the dry season, from November to April, so if you are an adventure buff, book now for an unforgettable experience. Guatemala has one main airport in Guatemala City and although it has an established Jewish community, I don’t recommend spending any time there. It’s not the safest area and the simple city doesn’t have much to offer. The rest of the country is a complete contrast — perpetual culture, luscious landscapes, volcanos and views for days. After landing in Guatemala City, we took an inexpensive shuttle (about $12

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ANTIGUA per person) to Antigua without getting ripped off like many South American airport shuttle or taxi systems (we’re looking at you, Cancun!). A lot of countries in Central America will try to rip off American tourists left and right, but that’s not as prevalent in Guatemala. Know your prices and currency differences before you go and make sure to haggle! We always download a currency app when traveling, which is always very helpful. While on the topic of transportation, we recommend using Uber as frequently as possible. It’s safe, convenient and for the price of a full-course meal in any kosher restaurant, you can practically travel halfway across the country. If you’d rather travel on more of a budget, use shuttles, which will also provide a more authentic experience.

STOP AT Chabad of Antigua, because you’ll probably be very hungry. The Chabad house has a restaurant and a magnificent Moroccan-inspired hotel on premises. There is a prolific, lush garden in the center square that is teeming with various flowers, fruit trees and the perfect place to lie down on the grass and relax in paradise. The Rabbi is extremely knowledgeable and willing to suggest at least two weeks worth of activities and sightseeing in Antigua alone. He will even help you schedule a day trip across the borders to Belize or Mexico. Like most Chabad houses, you can arrange to be hosted for Shabbat meals, which is sure to provide an uplifting spiritual experience.Visit their website chabadantiguaguatemala.com or Instagram @chabadantigua for more information. www.fleishigs.com

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If you’re looking to experience more of the local culture, we recommend staying at various hostels across the city. There are so many boutique hostels and hotels that you’ll probably have a harder time choosing where to stay than what to eat and do. No matter your decision, make sure to check out the local communities and bar scenes. Antigua’s main square is packed with stores that will entertain you for days.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’RE A traveler like we are, then we both know you’re looking for souvenirs or something to hoard, I mean “fill,” your home with. If that’s the case, I highly recommend perusing Antigua’s boutiques and home decor shops. The quality of the weavemasters is unparalleled and the vibrancy of patterns, colors and overall aesthetics is good enough to, well, fill your homes with. We purchased a brilliant blue and white handmade table runner for our future home. Take time to visit the Santa Catalina Arch, which was built in the 17th century as a bridge between a convent and a school. Although the history of this Arch can be intriguing, nothing will do it justice like the breathtaking backdrop of the Agua Volcano in the background. If you want the perfect shot, I recommend visiting on a clear day or early in the morning when there’s less foot traffic and a more tranquil photo-op. It's worth visiting the Casa Santo Domingo Hotel. There are not many hotels that have survived an earthquake and have housed guests since 1538. We decided to take a self-guided tour of the property and the hotel lobby, which also houses museums and art galleries. Since it’s completely free to enter and within walking distance from the city square, it was the perfect activity for Shabbat afternoon. If you’re up for a local adventure, we recommend renting ATVs or quad-bikes to ride along one of the many routes up to Cerro de La Cruz, which has a beautiful viewpoint of Antigua. You can also trek down to

other viewpoints and see glimpses of the multiple mountains in the Antigua area. Have you ever met someone who doesn’t like chocolate? Neither have we. That’s why it would be a disservice to mankind if you didn’t stop by a chocolate museum to make your own chocolate bar. Due to time constraints, we went to ChocoMuseo (the chocolate museum), which offered both dark and milk chocolate creations. We had the opportunity to make an authentic cocoa drink crafted by the Mayan civilization. We learned about the history of how the Spanish conquistador introduced milk to the Mayan cacao drink, thus transforming it to the first modern chocolate milk drink we have come to know and love today. Though the ingredients at the chocolate factory we visited are

technically kosher, it’s not certified. Chabad of Antigua has connections to a farm with a kosher certified chocolate factory, which is a bit of a trek. Contact Chabad for more details. When we were doing research on things to do near Antigua, we found a resort called Hobbitenango, a Lord of the Rings hobbit-style village that was established by an American. The resort sits on top of a hill and overlooks a few NOVEMBER 2021

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volcanoes, some of which are active, so on a clear day you can see smoke rising from the peaks of the mountain. The views are absolutely breathtaking and worth every penny. Since they only have a few rooms on premises, their vacancy, even during the peak of COVID, was none; be sure to book well in advance and expect to pay $100 per night. During our stay, the kitchen was accommodating and provided us with raw vegetables to make modest salads. We were lucky enough to meet the owner Dan and hear his story on how he built this tiny village. Prior to his involvement in the local community, the average child only went to school through 8th grade. Dan’s company helps students gain further education and remain in school through high school, then upon graduation, assists in securing jobs. His philanthropic work, social impact and overall mission is remarkable and quite admirable. You can learn more about Hobbitango and book directly on their website hobbitenango.com If you are visiting Antigua and don’t do the Acatenango volcano hike, did you even go to Guatemala? This trek is an hour away from Antigua and can be booked by any tour group or guide. This hike is not for the faint of heart — it’s a very intense 24-hour ordeal, but delivers on some of the most insanely beautiful views you will ever experience. The hike to the campsite on Acatenango, an inactive volcano, is about six hours, then you camp out under the stars. The tour groups provide tents, but make sure to ask just in case! Take a minute to stargaze and marvel at the beautiful night sky — it’s unlike anything else. At dusk, you are awakened and continue hiking until you reach the summit, which overlooks the very active erupting volcano called Fuego. This view is one that you simply cannot capture on camera and must experience in person. If you are not up to the entire hike, there is an option to rent horses to trek the majority of the 114

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climb. However, walking is part of the journey! The way down is fairly easy. I’d describe it as sliding and jumping down instead of “hiking” down and can take less than two hours. Waking up at 4 AM to begin the remainder of the climb to the peak for sunrise is exhausting, especially after the strenuous hike the day before, but extremely rewarding. Some choose to not finish the hike, which is about another hour of steep climbing in near darkness, but reaching the top and experiencing aerial views feels glorious. A walking stick, toilet paper and hand sanitizer are all necessary — don’t skip them! Good hiking boots will help tremendously. Most people save this hike for last, because you’ll likely want to rest for at least 24 hours afterwards.

SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA is nestled on Lake Atitlán, a historic volcanic crater. It’s a vibrant town with endless lake and mountain views. Interestingly, there are so many Israeli backpackers 116

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that visit the various towns around Lake Atitlán, that some of the locals actually speak Hebrew! San Pedro is a town where you'll end up meeting people from various backgrounds, rich with culture, colorful personalities and warmth. By the end of your visit, your inner adventure junkie will be filled with love and joy. Chabad of San Pedro is located along the main strip by the water and is overflowing with backpackers, a jubilant Rabbi and his staff. There are two restaurants — a falafel and shawarma joint and a cafe-style restaurant called Espresso Bar, which is relatively new and serves dairy fare like paninis, pancakes and waffles. You can also book Shabbat meals easily on their website chabadpedro.com. There are several towns along the lake, each with their own personality, architecture and history. Take a boat ride for no more than $7-$20 to visit the other towns situated on the lake. There are also kayak rentals, horseback riding and several painting and weaving classes within the shops on the main street. You can

trek the Indian Nose hike, which leaves very early in the morning so you can catch sunrise. Book with Chabad and the tour guide will make a kosher shakshuka breakfast on the mountaintop after the hike up! If you’re a coffee lover, take a coffee tour and learn about the plantation and history of coffee in Guatemala. The best part of San Pedro is the vibe and nothing is more blissful than sitting along the coastlines of the lake and enjoying the views with a drink in hand! If you’re looking for a place to stay in San Pedro, we recommend Casablanca, a gorgeous hostel that sits upon the lake and has a view that left us speechless. As a bonus, it's a very short walk to the Chabad house. The hostel has a cute patio with mats on the floor and hammocks to lie on that overlook the lake and mountains. Across the street from the hostel is a laundromat and juicery where we purchased freshly squeezed juices daily. If Casablanca has no availability, there are several other hostels along the street. If you’re feeling “fancy,” www.fleishigs.com

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there’s a boutique hotel called Sababa Hotel, which is absolutely gorgeous and run by an amazingly kind and eccentric Israeli. If you’re looking to tap into your spiritual persona and live out your inner hippy, the best stop is none other than the bohemian village of San Marcos, a paradise for any freespirited individual looking for drum circles, yoga classes and a meditative environment. Take a 20-minute hike towards the Yoga Forest, which is a yoga oasis with very peaceful views. We recommend staying at the Eagles Nest Atitlán or some other lodgings available on Airbnb. There is also a great spot for cliff jumping, which was terrifying and exhilarating at the same time. Panajachel is the cosmopolitan center for Lake Atitlán with lots of shopping opportunities. Buy a homemade hammock for under $40, home decor products, woodwork and literally anything and everything Guatemala has to offer. We walked into an art shop and purchased a hand-crafted blue vase with a beautiful NOVEMBER 2021

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hummingbird design. We also rented jet skis and rode the waves of the lake. We opted for a 30 minute time frame, which was perfect for us.

SEMUC CHAMPEY LYING NORTH OF Guatemala is the natural wonder of Semuc Champey, which consists of a natural limestone bridge that sits atop the Cahabón River. There are natural pools and falls that gather to create a beautiful wonder. The entrance fee to get to the pools is under $10. Getting to Semuc Champey is a journey in itself, with a total travel time of eight hours; we booked the trip from Antigua to Lanquín through Chabad. Once we arrived, we chose to hike the mountain, a very elevated climb. Alternatively, you can take a more direct path. We didn’t book with a tour guide and hitched a ride back to Antigua from Lanquín city center on the back of a truck, which took us through the scenic jungles on a very bumpy and windy dirt road. If you prefer a more comfortable method of transportation, almost every hotel in the area offers their own private shuttle and tour guides. If you want to continue exploring the Semuc Champey area, visit the underground caves to see some of the natural ecosystems, but beware — you will walk and swim through very cold waters. While Semuc Champey is beautiful and noteworthy, it is very much out of the way. We only stayed for two nights in Lanquin and that was more than enough for us. Visiting Antigua and Lake Atitlán can easily keep you busy for 2 weeks, so take the information that excites you and plan your ideal Guatemalan trip!

Gila Bard-Wigdor (Rapoport) is a newly married social media manager from Brooklyn, NY who enjoys traveling the world with her husband Menahem and working on the go. She started her kosher food and travel blog, kosherfoodworld.com, as a passion project to showcase kosher food and travel from around the world. You can follow her journey on Tik Tok and Instagram @kosherfoodworld.

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Simply. Simply Gourmet, Every Day Author: Rivky Kleiman Photographer: Chay Berger Food Stylist: Renee Muller Publisher: Artscroll Release Date: October, 27, 2021 Page Count: 320 Recipe Count: 140

IN HER DECADES as a food writer, Rivky Kleiman has cemented a reputation for offering approachable, reliable and delicious recipes, while simultaneously bringing something new to the table. She is a regular contributor at Mishpacha’s Family First food magazine and coauthor of The Bais Yaakov Cookbook (2011) and The Bais Yaakov Cookbook 2 (2017). In 2019, Rivky published her first independently written book, Simply Gourmet, which was met with smashing success. Rivky’s newest work, Simply Gourmet Every Day, is aimed at simple, even more approachable recipes without sacrificing elegance.

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WAS

SKIMMING

through the cookbook, I marveled at the beautifully photographed and styled recipes and immediately earmarked a whole bunch of recipes — a sign of a good cookbook! Everything I made from the cookbook came out exactly as expected, a sign of recipes well tested.

THE BOOK IS divided into chapters with a generous number of recipes within each, along with a picture of every recipe. The book starts off with Starters, such as Baked Kani Bites and Cubed Firecracker Salmon. The Dairy chapter has goodies such as Lemon Tarragon Quinoa Bowls; Onion Board with Herbed Butter; and French Toast Churros. The Salad chapter begins with the requisite dressing section followed by exciting unique salads like Honey Lime Nut Salad; and Upper Crust Sweet Potato Salad (hailing from the popular café with locations in Lakewood, NJ and Cedarhurst, NY). The Soup chapter has warm and comforting options including Quick Broccoli Bisque; Velvety Mushroom Leek Soup; and Chunky Root Vegetable Soup. The Fish chapter includes dishes such as Sea Bass with Mango Peach Chutney; Cauliflower Crusted Salmon; and Batter-Dipped Tilapia (recipe follows). The Poultry section has standouts like Cranberry

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Chicken Bake; Hot Honey Wings; Sweet Heat Chicken Subs; and Sesame Chicken (recipe follows). Find dishes like Savory Beef Crostata; Saucy Burgers; and Beef and Broccoli Ramen Bowls in the Meat section and sides like Brittle Topped Sweet Potato Pie; Oven Baked Spanish Orzo; and Sticky Green Beans in the Sides section. The book ends with a delicious Desserts chapter with treats like Plum Galette; Boston Cream Pie Cups; and Salted Caramel Pecan Pie and a Baked Goods section with delicacies like Babka Bundt Cake; Snickerdoodle Sticks; Red Velvet Chocolate Chip Cookies.

Rivky includes a great feature at the end of the book with sample dinner menus from recipes throughout the book and guidelines on how long it will take to complete the dinner. It’s a wonderful resource that allows you to tie recipes together in a practical way and assist readers in navigating the book, allowing them to enjoy a few recipes at a time. While the book is called “Simply,” not all the recipes are super simple, but they all are approachable and accessible in terms of ingredients, tools and cooking level. That leaves some recipes for every day and some for special occasion cooking. This book would be perfect for cooks of all levels and will appeal to those who appreciate familiar recipes with some ethnic influences peppered throughout.

Batter-Dipped Tilapia Yields 4 servings

Need dinner in a pinch? This quick fish dish with its pillowy exterior and lemony tartar sauce will still taste delicious even the second time around. 1 -1½ ½ ½ 1 1 1 ½ ½

lb skinless tilapia fillets cup flour cup cornstarch tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp garlic powder tsp sea salt tsp coarsely ground black pepper ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 1 egg ⅔ cup cold beer oil, for frying Tartar Sauce ½ cup mayonnaise 1 Tbsp lemon juice 2 Tbsp chopped capers or chopped dill pickles 1 Tbsp fresh dill or 1 tsp dried dill ½ tsp Dijon mustard kosher salt, to taste black pepper, to taste 1. Prepare the tartar sauce: Combine tartar sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk well. Set aside. 2. Prepare the fish: In a large bowl, whisk together all dry ingredients. Add egg and beer; whisk until combined. Set aside. 3. Add 2 inches oil to a small saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat until oil reaches 350°F. Lower heat to medium to maintain temperature at 350°F. 4. Meanwhile, cut fish into strips or nuggets; add to prepared batter. Stir to completely coat fish pieces. Place a few batter-dipped pieces of fish into the hot oil; do not crowd pan. Fry until lightly golden, about 30-60 seconds per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined cooling rack to drain. Continue with remaining fish. 5. Serve alongside tartar sauce. VA R I AT I O N

Tilapia can be substituted with turbot, fluke, or flounder. Reprinted with permission from Simply. Simply Gourmet, Every Day by Rivky Kleiman Author head shot: Moshe Oiknine

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Chay Berger took these pics btw, good no?! you should probably follow her on insta. Just saying. @chayphotography

COOKBOOK

Sesame Chicken

Yields 6 servings

S E SA M E SAU C E

This sesame chicken is seriously so delectable, you’ll be tempted to toss those take-out menus. These crispy chicken pieces coated in a sweet and savory honey sesame sauce are perfectly delicious. I think this homemade version is even better than what I’ve had at many restaurants. My kids most definitely agree.

1½ ¼ 3 ⅛ 2

lb dark chicken cutlets cup nondairy milk cloves garlic, crushed tsp crushed red pepper flakes canola oil, for frying tsp sesame oil chopped chives, for garnish

BAT T E R

½ ½ ½

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cup cornstarch cup flour cup cold seltzer

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¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 1 ⅓ 1 1

egg whites cup low sodium soy sauce cup rice vinegar cup dark brown sugar cup honey cup ketchup Tbsp cornstarch cup water tsp garlic powder Tbsp black and white sesame seeds + more for garnish

1. In a large resealable bag, combine nondairy milk, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Add chicken tenders. Coat chicken tenders; marinate and soften for 15-20 minutes. 2. In a large bowl, combine and whisk together batter ingredients. Add marinated chicken tenders. Discard remaining marinade. Mix to completely coat with batter. 3. Heat 3 inches oil in a 2-3-quart

saucepan over medium heat. Add a few pieces of chicken at a time, taking care not to crowd the pan. Fry for 2 minutes, until lightly golden. Turn chicken; fry until lightly golden. Transfer fried chicken to a paper towel-lined cooling rack or pan. Repeat until all chicken is fried. 4. Prepare the sesame sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together sauce ingredients until smooth. Set aside. 5. Heat sesame oil in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add sesame sauce. Bring to a boil; cook until thickened, whisking occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add fried chicken; toss to coat with sauce. 6. Before serving, sprinkle with additional sesame seeds and chopped chives. N OT E : White chicken cutlets also work here, but dark cutlets are a bit juicier. Reprinted with permission from Simply. Simply Gourmet, Every Day by Rivky Kleiman

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L'CHAIM

Sizzling Grapefruit Spritzer Serves: 2

2 2 ½ 1 1 12 6 1 4 2

tablespoons kosher salt tablespoons sugar teaspoon cayenne pepper lime, cut into wedges Ice, for serving jalapeño, seeds removed and thinly sliced, divided ounces freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice ounces vodka or gin tablespoon maple syrup ounces grapefruit flavored seltzer grapefruit slices, for garnish

BY: ADINA SILBERMAN This Chanukah, delight your guests with something new — sweet and savory cocktails.

1. Combine salt, sugar and cayenne pepper. Run a lime wedge along the rim of 2 highball glasses, then dip into salt mixture. Fill with ice and set aside. 2. In a cocktail shaker, muddle 4 jalapeño slices with grapefruit juice, vodka and maple syrup. Strain into glasses, then top with seltzer. 3. Garnish with sliced grapefruit and remaining sliced jalapeños.

Hot Chanukah Michelada Serves: 2

2 1½ 1 4 4 1 1 1 1 12 6

tablespoons kosher salt teaspoons chili powder, divided lime, cut into wedges Ice, for serving ounces tomato juice ounces pineapple juice ounce lime juice teaspoon Worcestershire sauce teaspoon soy sauce teaspoon hot sauce ounces light lager beer (1-inch) pineapple chunks

1. Combine salt and 1 teaspoon chili powder. Run a lime wedge along the rim of 2 highball glasses, then dip into salt mixture. Fill with ice and set aside. 2. In a cocktail shaker, combine tomato juice, pineapple juice, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce and hot sauce. Shake lightly to mix. Pour into glasses, then top with beer. 3. Sprinkle pineapple chunks with remaining ½ teaspoon chili powder and divide onto 2 mini skewers. Garnish each glass with a pineapple skewer. Adina Silberman is a dentist by trade, but has always had a passion for food, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. Adina thinks outside the box and cooks with seasonal ingredients, substituting easily and as needed. She shares techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks transform their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and daughter.

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L'CHAIM

SIPS THAT’LL TAKE YOU FOR A SPIN

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y: YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

USUALLY, THE FOCUS OF my articles is on the wine inside the bottles. Still, I thought it would be interesting to discuss the actual bottle and what goes into the process. Everyone knows that most wines are closed and sealed with a cork, but what is a cork? There are primarily two different types of corks on the market used to seal bottles of wine. Natural cork has been in use since the 1600s, when glass bottles became a popular vessel to store wine, replacing the traditional amphorae-clay container or wooden barrel. Around 80% of wines produced in the world are closed with corks. Corks are made from a layer of bark from cork oak trees primarily grown in Europe and Africa that has been used to seal containers for thousands of years. Aficionados consider natural cork the top tier of wine closures since there are many benefits to using a natural cork. It allows the wine to breathe and age for a long time without spoilage, is easy to remove and makes a “popping” sound that consumers know and love. Regular wine corks are also compostable, recyclable and sustainable, since cork trees are not cut down to make corks. The bad news for natural corks is something referred to as TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole),

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also known as cork taint. This occurs when the natural cork is infected with the aforementioned compound and can ruin the wine’s taste. The flavor imparted by an infected cork reminds me of an old closet in Grandma’s basement. Most natural corks come from Portugal where, in the past, the harvest of the material took place once every nine years. However, as wine production increased, so has the demand for cork materials. Producers started to strip the trees more often, leading to the declining health of the trees and the popularization of synthetic corks. There are a few subcategories of cork, like hermetic cork, which looks like a mushroom when popped out of the bottle. This cork is used to seal sparkling wines such as Champagne, Brut, Cava and Prosecco, to name a few. These wines are not meant to be resealed with this type of cork as it almost always expands beyond the size of the bottle opening. Drink up all the sparkling wine if you open it! In the 1990s, synthetic corks became more popular to avoid TCA contamination and lower prices for wineries. Synthetic corks eliminate the risk of TCA infection, which usually affects roughly 3-15%

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of wine bottles. Wineries are currently experimenting with these types of corks made from ethylene-vinyl acetate, which don’t offer the same kind of breathability that natural corks offer. They do, however, offer more sterile conditions since they are not a natural product. They also do not dry out or allow less oxygen to seep in, which sometimes occurs with natural corks, thus ruining the wine. Most wineries are trying them out slowly on white wines, which are ideally consumed younger than red wines. Therefore, consumers are not as picky with their white wine closure materials. A technical cork, also known as micro-agglomerated cork, is where cork dust is bound by glue or a plant-based binder and put under pressure. A prevalent brand name of this type of cork is Diam. They are free from the risk of TCA, have no flavor and control the addition of oxygen or amount the cork can breathe. They are an excellent natural cork alternative. We see more and more wineries in the kosher market that utilize this product, including high-end ones such as Château Haut Condissas and Château Guiraud. Screw top wines such as, for example, Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc and Mt. Tabor Chardonnay, are slowly making their way into the mainstream market and in the kosher market as well. They do not require a corkscrew; they are TCA-free, recyclable and come in various sizes. The problem is that screw cap wines are not ideal for long-term storage since they can cause the wine to reduce, making the wine less intensely flavored and acidic. Whichever type of cork you choose to seal your wine with, it is essential to remember that the quality of the wine makes or breaks the experience of tasting. Store wines at the optimal temperature, away from light and enjoy them with family and friends. L’chaim!

N AT U R A L

C O L M AT E D

T WIN-TOP

CHAMPAGNE

MICRO

AG G LO M E R AT E D

SYNTHETIC

CONICAL

WOODEN BAR-TOP

PLASTIC BAR-TOP

Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com

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LAST BITE

Pie Dough Churros Serves: 8-12 By: Miriam Pascal Cohen

This is a great way to use leftover pie dough scraps! In honor of Chanukah, I used fun cookie cutters and fried them — they were addictively delicious. N OT E : Use any store bought sweet pie dough or even puff pastry.

⅓ 2

Pie dough or puff pastry cup sugar tablespoons cinnamon Oil, for frying

1. Cut pie dough into strips or use a cookie cutter to create shapes. 2. Mix sugar and cinnamon and set aside. 3. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Working in batches, fry dough for about 30 seconds, until golden brown. 4. Transfer to a paper towellined baking sheet and immediately toss with cinnamonsugar mixture.

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