Fleishigs Magazine Issue 032 - December2021 by Fleishigs Magazine

USA $6.99 CAN $9.99 / UK £6 SA R90 / ISR 25₪

BUTCHER'S CUT

The wonders of chicken breast

EDITOR’S LETTER

FOOD FOR GOOD Moss Café in Riverdale, NY

16 ESSENTIALS What you need and where to get it + our favorite Ikea finds 18 LEFTOVERS Taco night

20 DINNER BASICS Tips and techniques to make dinner a breeze 21

GLOBAL FLAVORS Sumac

BACK POCKET One meat sauce endless ways

40 L’CHAIM The art of wine pairing 42 GLOBAL FLAVORS Sumac 50 SEASONAL Soups to warm up to 72

56 DINNER FEAST

Prep & Rally

CULINARY SCHOOL Sous vide

80 HEALTHY HOT TAKE Utilizing the freezer section 84 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Mama Kitchen 91 COOKBOOK The Weekday Vegetarians by Jenny Rosenstrach 94 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Celler de Capçanes 98 BREAKING BREAD Challah breadcrumbs 102 TRAVEL Key Largo

106 SOMETHING SWEET Epic cereal cookies

112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE

THE DINNER ISSUE

EDITOR'S LETTER

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

Dinner’s in the bag. I found myself aimlessly wandering our local supermarket, Gourmet Glatt, deeply contemplating what to make for dinner for a friend who just had her seventh child. I was surprised at my predicament. Honestly, I develop, edit and conceptualize recipes for a living and have cooked many more recipes than the average person. Yet the “what’s for dinner” conundrum loomed large. I ended up making Ahuva Schwartz’s Sweet and Sticky Roast Chicken (from the Private Chef issue #23 — recipe on the Fleishigs app), rice, a salad with roasted vegetables dressed with a simple balsamic vinaigrette and peanut butter cereal bars for dessert. Thanks to a quick search on the app, it all worked out easily. Coincidentally, I was also in the planning stages of this issue and was doubting the need for a dinner issue at all. But this personal experience made me realize that there are never enough ways to make dinner and everyone can always use new and fresh inspiration. Because we are all about “unGoogleable content” here at Fleishigs, this issue offers a lot more than just a collection of new dinner recipes. We decided to focus a lot on tips (knife essentials, cooking in advance) and techniques (sous vide), along with base recipes that work many ways and how to utilize leftovers without ONE FALL SUNDAY

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss

any recipe on hand. Each column is dedicated with dinner in mind. Even our Butcher’s Cut feature highlights chicken breasts — one of the most popular and more inexpensive proteins available for dinner. We explored its different varieties and some exciting new ways to cook it, such as poaching. We even tackled ground chicken, which doesn’t tend to have the best reputation when compared to meat. As winter sets in, we have soups to keep you warm and cereal cookies the whole family will love. We visited Mama Kitchen’s new location, a unique restaurant dedicated to serving homestyle Israeli food with an elevated vibe — perfect for dinner inspiration. This issue is the start of what I am referring to as the “Fleishigs winter trilogy” — three consecutive non-holiday issues, beginning with this Dinner Issue, followed by the Restaurant Issue (January), then the Kiddush Issue (February). This allows us to think outside the box (more than usual!) and draw inspiration beyond the time of year and holiday that may be upon us. I look forward to the challenge and always welcome your feedback! Bitayavon,

Shifra

ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Claudia Hopkins CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Chapter 6: In which we have reached the inevitable yassification of my column. In large part to Toby™, the public's conciousness of my column has now been altered. Does this please please me? oh yeah! Cause I get by with a little help from my friends. In fact, I've been waiting for this moment, for all my life, oh lord (insert air drum solo here). Sidenote: When Collins starts throwing it down on Tarzan, I just lose it. Is it not the greatest soundtrack of all time? In closing, if anyone wants to send me a DM to acknowledge their presence here. Cause I want to know, can you show me, I want to know about these strangers like me. (@naftolimann on insta, I'll be there don't you cry.) This issue was designed to the melodious sounds of GAYLE, David Gilmour, Dewey Finn & No Vacancy, Del Shannon, Dov Shurin and the original Oif Simches albums. Visual stimuli: The Wheel of Time and HANNA Season 3.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine 10

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Food for Good

Food for Good is a monthly column highlighting people, brands and food businesses that are committed to repairing the world through their generous actions. We hope their stories are illuminating and inspiring.

BY: LIZ RUEVEN

MOSS CAFÉ 3260 JOHNSON AVENUE BRONX, NY KOS H E R C E RT I F I CAT I O N : R I V E R DA L E VA’A D, C H O LOV STA M

HE STORY: Moss Café is committed to daily community engagement in their neighborhood and beyond. When Emily Weisberg, who co-owns the café with her husband Alex, wanted to create a kosher community space, she realized that she may not get to know others in their community if they weren’t eating in the same restaurants or sending their kids to the same schools. She wanted Moss to proudly represent Am Yisrael to the larger community, so she committed to weaving food and social justice projects into the ethos of the café. To that end, Tess Watts, a team member since 2017, has been deeply involved in

these neighborhood initiatives. She is now fully focused on these projects as Director of Community Outreach. PRODUCT: Moss Café is located in Riverdale, NY and is committed to community, sustainability, quality and creativity. They offer vegetarian, pescatarian, vegan and allergy-friendly options. DESCRIPTION: Moss Café offers sidewalk dining, indoor dining (when safe), family meals, delivery, prepared food and holiday catering. Seasonal ingredients are sourced from small, local farms and preparations are all made from scratch and in-house.

ACTION There are numerous ongoing community outreach projects that Moss Café participates in, including actively gathering food donations for neighborhood pantries. As a “no-waste” restaurant, they compost food waste and coffee grinds in partnership with local community gardens. Moss Café delivers much needed food to community refrigerators by partnering with Moms Feed the Bronx. They also offer postpartum meal sponsorship to local families in need. HOW TO HELP: Visit the “Community Engagement” section under the “Order” tab on the Moss Café website (mossprovisions.com) to find the various initiatives that Moss Café currently partakes in. For as little as $12.00, order a generous tray of mac n’ cheese and a hearty green salad or salmon cakes and minestrone soup from Moss Café to be delivered to a local pantry/refrigerator LIZ’S FAVES Tofu Banh Mi is a delectable vegan take on a classic Vietnamese sandwich. Each bite builds flavors with perfectly marinated tofu, pickled carrots, thinly sliced daikon, vegan mayo and hoisin. Imagine it all elegantly layered and sandwiched into their house-made sesame baguette — perfection!

Liz Rueven has been writing about the intersection of seasonal recipes, local foodways and Jewish lifestyle since 2011. She’s passionate about supporting small farmers, food creatives and tending to her vegetable garden and grandkids. Follow Liz on instagram @kosherlikeme and on her blog kosherlikeme.com. 12

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ESSENTIALS

BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ

HERE ARE SOME OF THE MORE UNIQUE INGREDIENTS HIGHLIGHTED THROUGHOUT THE ISSUE.

INGREDIENTS GOOD & GATHER GARLIC INFUSED EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Chef Isaac Bernstein recommends using garlic oil to infuse extra flavor into meats and vegetables when cooking sous vide (see more on page 72). This can be accomplished with the oil from homemade garlic confit, but there are many quality infused oils on the market. Look for cold-pressed varieties, like this one from Target, for best results. Certified kosher by OU

FRONTIER CO-OP GARAM MASALA This earthy South Asian spice mix lends a punch of flavor to the Herbed Chicken Meatballs and Spiced Tahini on page 39. Its ingredients vary based on brand, but commonly includes fennel, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, chili powder and cumin. Certified kosher by KSA

LIEBER’S COCONUT CREAM Unlike cream of coconut, which is a highly sweetened product commonly used in piña coladas, coconut cream is a pure, unsweetened coconut product that can be used in both sweet and savory applications like the Carrot and Lentil Soup with Collard Greens on page 51. For a lighter option, use coconut milk. Certified kosher by Weissmandl

GALIL FROZEN ARTICHOKES Follow the recipe on page 82 for Lemony Garlic Artichoke Bottoms, which uses these frozen artichoke bottoms — a fantastic freezer shortcut. Certified kosher by OU

HAKUBAKU ORGANIC JAPANESE SOBA NOODLES Soba (buckwheat) noodles are super hearty in flavor and high in fiber. When dressed in a delicious sauce, as in the Poached Chicken and Soba Noodle Salad with Peanut Dressing on page 28, it can be served at room temperature or even cold. Certified kosher by Kosher Australia 16

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ESSENTIALS

FUN FINDS

MANY THINK OF IKEA as an inexpensive warehouse to get furniture and home accessories, but the kitchen section is where it truly shines. Stock up on unexpected and affordable kitchen basics like knives, flatware, serveware, utensils, mixing bowls, dishes and more. For those obsessed with Home Goods, Ikea will become your next best destination to peruse.

HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE IKEA FINDS:

ARV BRÖLLOP CAKE STAND WITH LID Look no further for a cake stand/lid set that is perfect for a hostess gift, with or without a cake — simple, sleek and affordable! $12.99

CHOSIGT ICE POP MAKER If you have kids, chances are you’ve purchased many similar expensive sets and the pieces end up lost or in the garbage (or in between the couch cushions if we’re being honest). At this affordable price point, stock up on a few sets. Fill with orange juice, grape juice or homemade smoothie, freeze and have an after school or after dinner snack at the ready. $1.99

PRUTA FOOD CONTAINER SET This set of 17 airtight containers is perfect for dinner prep or holding leftovers in the fridge. Plus, they stack for easy storage. $5.99

365+ CHOPPING BOARD SET These are not only durable enough to use as cutting boards, but are compatible with some of the glass dishes in the 365 set as lids. A set comes with three boards in different colors. $4.99

365+ STAINLESS STEEL VEGETABLE KNIFE This sleek stainless steel vegetable knife has a similar feel to the renowned Global brand for a fraction of the price. It’s light, sharp and the ribbed handle makes it easy and safe to grip. $14.99

UPPHÖJD FLATWARE SET This fun, colorful flatware set (service for four) adds character to the table, is familyfriendly, easy to grab (especially for kids) and dishwasher safe. At this price point, you won’t feel guilty replacing it. $9.99

KAVALKAD FRYING PAN You can’t go wrong with a basic 9-inch frying pan, perfect for eggs, sautéing vegetables or toasting nuts. $3.49 *Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

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LEFTOVERS

YOU'VE GOT TO KNOW WHEN TO HOLD 'EM, KNOW WHEN TO FOLD 'EM.

BASE: Soft or hard taco shells BULK: Protein

CRUNCH: Slaw or pickled vegetables

TACO SUNDAY, MONDAY AND EVEN TUESDAY.

COOL: Creamy and rich condiment

BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

HEAT: Salsa or hot sauce

ACO NIGHT IS our go-to Sunday night dinner, a night that tends to be “leftovers night” for many families. The after Shabbat, clean-out-yourfridge scenario can sometimes feel redundant and stale. This is why we naturally lean towards tacos as a vehicle to incorporate leftovers in a fresh way. I recommend preparing a fresh element to go along with the leftovers, such as roasting fish to use with leftover salads and roasted vegetables, or elevating a leftover protein, such as chicken or beef, by shredding it and reheating in a favorite sauce. Tacos are a much beloved food experience due to the explosion of flavors and textures it brings to the table. There is always a crunchy element of the taco (or chewy — depending if you are team soft or hard shell), a creamy element like a rich condiment and crisp elements in the form of slaw or pickled vegetables that perfectly accompany the protein. We always have an array of hot sauces, fresh herbs and plenty of lime wedges to squeeze over. Taco night is always a fun, interactive, hands-on food experience for all ages. Tacos give us the ability to stretch protein quite far, so while your two leftover chicken breasts won’t necessarily feed a family of four, once shredded and served alongside many other taco accoutrements, they go a long way. With the art of customization, kids (or picky eaters) feel part of the process. The goal is to use the guidelines below and “fill in the blanks” with whatever you may have on hand and whatever your family preferences are.

s e k a m t a Wh l t i mate u e h t di n n e r? tac o

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FRESH: Limes and fresh herbs When planning the photo shoot for this issue, I decided to implement the above strategy (leftovers) and not purchase anything extra or specific for this feature. To be honest, we are never lacking ingredients during shoot week, but I dug deep in the fridge to make the case for why tacos are so great for leftovers. BASE: I warmed corn tortillas on the stovetop to give them a slight char, then wrapped in foil and kept in a warm oven. COOL: We had an ample amount of Chef Isaac’s creamy Caesar dressing (page 78) on hand, which was leftover from our sous vide feature. On other occasions, I’ve used mashed avocado or leftover dips from Shabbos, such as olive dip. BULK: For the protein, we had some leftover raw salmon from the family pack that was purchased for Dini Klein’s salmon (page 62). We brushed it with Dijon mustard, sprinkled on some Old Bay seasoning (any favorite seasoning would work) and roasted in a 400°F oven for 25 minutes. We also utilized some extra black beans that we had from the meat sauce, which added another element of protein and nutrition. CRUNCH: We utilized coleslaw from Shabbat and pickled onions that we always have on hand in the fridge. In a pinch, canned pickled jalapeños or green chilies work wonderfully and last for a while in the fridge. Check out the Fleishigs app for various condiments from prior issues. HEAT: Hot sauce always! If your family doesn’t like spicy flavors, use a mild salsa or another bold, smoky element, such as leftover babaganoush. FRESH: Chopped cilantro and lime wedges. www.fleishigs.com

LEFTOVERS

DECEMBER 2021

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DINNER BASICS

CRUCIAL FACTORS FOR DINNER SUCCESS WHY DO KNIVES MATTER? WHAT KNIVES ARE ESSENTIAL FOR DINNER PREP? WITHOUT PROPER kitchen knife technique, you can still get prep done. However, having proper knife skills can make the job easier and quicker. Proper knives are the most essential tools in the kitchen. They help with preliminary cuts, such as peeling, stabilizing and squaring off vegetables or fruit. They also help create cuts that encourage even cooking, which subsequently results in great taste, texture and overall visual appeal. There are many knives to choose from, but when it comes to dinner prep, the ones you really want in your collection are the following: chef’s knife, serrated knife and paring knife. Purchasing a knife is a very personal thing and not all knives work for everyone. Shop around and physically hold the knives to get a feel for how they sit in your hand. A chef’s knife will do almost every job in the kitchen and if you could only invest in one, it should be this one because it provides the best value. However, there are few things that it cannot do. If you want to build a collection but are on a budget, splurge on a good-quality chef’s knife and spend less on the rest because they won’t be used as frequently. A serrated knife is a great sidekick (especially the flexible ones) for cutting through large fruit peels like pineapple and watermelon as well as bread, of course. Tomatoes tend to cut really well with a serrated blade as well. A paring knife is more comfortable to handle for some smaller jobs where a larger chef’s knife would be cumbersome. Think segmenting citrus and peeling shallots, tomatoes, mangoes, artichokes and strawberries. 20

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6 MEAL PREP TIPS TO TURN ANYONE INTO A DINNER PRO BY: SANDY LEIBOWITZ

PREPARE

This means bringing your workspace back to neutral. Many hear the idea of “cleaning as you go,” but that can sound too vague. Every time you take an action, reset. After spices are used, put them away and put unused dishes in the sink. Once the protein is on the fire, wipe down the counters. I also like to utilize the time when cleaning to pull out the protein that I will need for the following night, so that it can defrost in the fridge (bottom shelf, in a bowl). Anchoring one habit to the next is a great way to fall into routine.

If you know me and my philosophy, great cooking is not really about the recipes, but if you do read one to garner some inspiration, make sure to read it in its entirety. You don’t want to be caught without an ingredient or realize halfway through that you needed to prepare something ahead of time.

GAT H E R TECHNIQUE

When it comes to preparing food, mise en place is where it has to start. Mise en place is a French term that means “everything in its place” and that includes ingredients and tools. Visualize the steps before you start cooking, which will help organize the process.

SIMPLIFY

RESET

As mentioned above, having proper knife skills not only makes prep much more enjoyable and efficient, it keeps the process much safer as well. Don’t forget to take care of your knives with proper cleaning and regular sharpening.

ORDER

Whenever a process has multiple steps, break it down into smaller steps. For example, with onions — you have to peel, make vertical cuts and then dice. If you are working with six onions, first peel all six, then make vertical cuts on all, then dice. This keeps you in a state of flow and your brain can focus on one task at a time (which it really thrives on, by the way!). This is how restaurants train their cooks; while you may not have 50 onions to do, I still very much believe that it makes a difference in efficiency in a home kitchen.

When you think about where everything will be cooking (stovetop versus oven), you can plan the rest of the meal around it. Don’t rely on needing the stovetop for everything or you’ll feel like a short order cook! Instead, during the Prepare and Gather (see above) phases, think about what heat sources you will utilize and when. Having everything go into the oven is ideal for “hands off” cooking, but usually the trade off is longer cook time. Think about what you can cook first and what can “hang out.” Rice can typically stay warm with the lid on and some roasted vegetables are fine to serve at room temperature. All of these things can help you get a handle on your cooking so that weeknights are more bearable.

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BACK POCKET

S H I F R A’S N OT E : Once you master certain techniques, you can customize seasonings and spices to your taste. This attitude provides you with freedom in the kitchen and results in a more adventurous approach to cooking. Inspired by Sandy's technique on making meat sauce; we tested and developed an all purpose meat sauce and came up with three completely different dinner ideas using the same sauce. The sauce freezes very well; so we recommend making a large batch which can easily be defrosted for an easy, quick dinner. It is fascinating how one sauce can be taken in so many different directions with a simple swap of spices.

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BACK POCKET

M A I L L A R D R E ACT I O N

If you follow Sandy on Instagram, one of the core lessons she teaches is the importance of achieving a Maillard reaction on everything you cook. The Maillard reaction refers to a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that gives browned food its distinctive flavor. When making a meat sauce, make sure that the meat has a chance to develop a rich, golden brown color, which truly improves the end result.

Sandy Leibowitz graduated from The Culinary Institute of America and cooked professionally for over 12 years. Now, a mom of two, she empowers home cooks with techniques for confidence in the kitchen. Find Sandy on Instagram @plantainsandchallah. 22

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BACK POCKET

1 1½ 1 2 2 3 1 1

2 ½

All-Purpose Meat Sauce Serves: 6

NOTES: • Chop vegetables as finely as possible (you can use a food processor for this step) and they will practically melt into the sauce. Keep the vegetables bigger if your kids are open to the texture. • Make sure the wine is mainly reduced before adding crushed tomatoes. This allows the raw wine flavor to evaporate, resulting in a deeply rich flavor base that doesn’t taste of alcohol. • Use any seasoning of choice depending on your preference — make meat lasagna with Italian seasoning, nachos with taco seasoning or season with baharat and serve over roasted eggplant.

1 1

tablespoon oil pounds ground beef onion, diced carrots, diced stalks celery, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoon tomato paste tablespoon seasoning of choice (see headnote) teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup wine (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add meat and brown, undisturbed, for 5 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to break up the meat and sauté for another 3 minutes, until mostly browned. Transfer meat to a plate using a slotted spoon, reserving any fat in the pan. 2. Add onions, carrots and celery and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another minute. Add tomato paste, seasoning of choice, salt and pepper and sauté until tomato paste coats the vegetables and spices are fragrant. 3. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. 4. Add crushed tomatoes and return beef to the pan. 5. Cook, covered, for 45-60 minutes on low heat.

Meat Lasagna Preheat oven to 400°F. Pour ½ cup marinara sauce in the bottom of a 9x13-inch pan. Arrange no-boil lasagna noodles on top and top with Italian seasoning-spiced meat sauce. Repeat with a few more layers of noodles and meat sauce. Spread ½ cup marinara sauce on top and top with 2 cups non-dairy shredded cheese, if desired. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 35 minutes. Sprinkle ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs on top for some extra crunch and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

Meat Nachos Add 1 (15-ounce) jar salsa and 1 (15-ounce) can black beans to taco-spiced meat sauce. Add 1 tablespoon chili powder, if desired. Pour over tortilla chips and top with pickled onions, guacamole, Roasted Garlic Caesar (page 76) and fresh herbs.

Eggplant with Meat Sauce Preheat oven to 425°F. Slice 1 eggplant in half lengthwise and score in a crosshatch pattern. Place cut-side down on a baking sheet drizzled with ¼ cup olive oil and roast for 20 minutes. Flip and roast for another 10-15 minutes, until eggplant is fork tender. Roughly mash eggplant, leaving the skin intact, and top with baharat-spiced meat sauce. Sprinkle ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs or sesame seeds on top and cook for an additional 5-8 minutes. Top with ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley and a drizzle of tahini or marinara sauce. DECEMBER 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

H I C K E N B R E AST is popular and versatile, but tends to have the same bad reputation as first cut brisket — dry and tasteless. We’re here to let you know that it doesn’t have to be that way. Start with the best quality chicken you can find (it really does make a difference), choose a cooking method that will build flavor without drying out the meat (more on that later) and the possibilities for a delicious dinner will be endless. Some anatomy: There are two breasts per bird — the larger, “white meat” muscles on either side of the carcass above the thigh and drumstick. The wings come out of the breast and are usually removed from breast fillets; they may still be attached if you buy chicken breast quarters. Most poultry these days is bred to be larger, since white meat is popular, leaner and can be cooked in so many ways. Since meat is muscle, the more the muscles move, the more developed they will be. Breasts don’t move as much as legs, so they’re generally more tender than thigh and drumstick meat, but that lack of connective tissue found in the legs also means that the breasts can dry out if cooked too long or allowed to reach too high a temperature. Chicken breast fillets are easy to find, but

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you can also make your own from a whole chicken should you happen to have one around (or want to use, say, the carcass and legs for stock). Start with the backbone up and, using a long, sharp knife, slice downwards, following the curve of the rib bones. Next, remove the wishbone at the neck end — it’s easy to miss, but unpleasant to discover as you take a bite of your dinner. If you’re filleting your own, leave the skin on. It browns beautifully and adds flavor, moisture and color to the finished dish. Alternatively, remove the skin by gently pulling it away from the meat. Finally, remove the wings. There are a few ways to ensure that chicken breasts will be tender. If roasting, keep the skin on and don’t cook past 155°F (the temperature will continue to rise to the recommended 165°F out of the oven. If you cook to 165°F, the carryover cooking out of the oven will take you way into the tough zone). If frying schnitzel or making stir fry, use tenders, thincut breasts or small pieces of chicken, so that you can get it in and out of the heat quickly. Poaching or cooking sous vide are two other options for low-heat methods that gently cook the proteins without causing them to toughen up. The recipes on the following pages will steer you in the right direction.

You may find chicken breasts butchered in a variety of ways: • Chicken Breast: skinon and bone-in • Boneless Breast or Breast Fillet: skinless and boneless (often available thinly sliced) • Skin-On Breast Fillet: skin-on and boneless • Airline Breast: “fancy” cut often served at weddings, which is a skin-on breast with the first joint of the wing attached • Chicken Tender: a thin, boneless, skinless fillet cut that is a distinct muscle within the breast. On a full breast fillet, you may notice what looks like two lobes, one larger and one smaller. The smaller lobe is the tender and may be sold separately. www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com. DECEMBER 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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DECEMBER 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

HICKEN BREAST IS

often described as the little black dress of the culinary world — infinitely adaptable and perfectly neutral, it’s the reliable base you can dress up however you like. But can we normalize admitting that chicken breast is actually really hard to cook well? Grilling is tricky — undercook it and it isn’t safe to eat, overcook by even a few minutes and it’s dry and tough. Breading and frying is messy, takes forever and is still prone to the same undercooking and overcooking worries. Plus, it tastes best hot out of the pan — not the following day reheated on the hot plate. (And yes, some prefer skinless, boneless chicken thighs, but I actually prefer the clean flavor and texture of the chicken breast, provided it’s cooked perfectly.) Enter poaching — it may sound like some kind of bland diet food method from the 1970s, but poaching chicken is actually the easiest, most foolproof and most delicious method I’ve found for preparing chicken breast, especially for advance preparation. Poaching simply means cooking an ingredient gently in a flavored water bath. The key word here is gentle — you don’t want to vigorously boil the life out of that poor piece of chicken. I prefer poached or sous vide chicken breast for use in salads, noodle dishes or sandwiches — any dish where the chicken is served

mixed with a dressing, covered in a sauce or disguised in some way. The thing about poached chicken is that it’s, well, pretty ugly. That gentle cooking method doesn’t give you any of the Maillard reaction browning on the surface, so even a delicious piece of chicken is going to be pale and not that appetizing looking. (An easy way to fix this if you want to serve chicken simply sliced on a platter is to brush it with your favorite sauce and broil for a minute or two after poaching.) TO POACH: Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add a palmful of kosher salt and your aromatics of choice — I like a few smashed garlic cloves, black peppercorns and half a sliced lemon, but you can also add ginger, soy sauce, bay leaves, fresh rosemary, dry white wine or a halved onion. Add boneless, skinless chicken breasts (no need to pound them thin), making sure they are submerged. Bring back to a boil and boil gently, covered, for three minutes. Then remove from heat and let it stand for 18-20 minutes, flipping the chicken halfway through. Cut into one breast to make sure it’s opaque and white all the way through, but don’t slice or shred it right away — store the chicken whole for the juiciest result.

When you’re ready to serve, slice, cube or shred the chicken and serve as desired. Poaching will easily become your favorite method for preparing this underrated protein.

MORE WAYS TO USE POACHED CHICKEN • Cooked pasta + grape tomatoes + cubed poached chicken + pesto • Toasted baguette + sliced poached chicken + pickled carrots and cucumbers + cilantro + spicy mayo • Massaged kale + leftover roasted root vegetables + cubed poached chicken + nuts + Dijon vinaigrette • Soft buns or challah + shredded poached chicken tossed with BBQ sauce + coleslaw + pickles • Heirloom tomatoes + torn sourdough cubes + roughly chopped poached chicken + balsamic vinaigrette

EDITOR'S NOTE: See page 74 for Chef Isaac Bernstein's sous vide chicken.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Poached Chicken and Soba Noodle Salad with Peanut Dressing

(8-ounce) package soba noodles, cooked according to package directions

cup finely shredded red cabbage

bell pepper, julienned

Serves: 4-6 as a main, 8-10 as a side

carrot, julienned

Feel free to substitute any of the vegetables below with other crunchy, colorful options, such as cucumber, edamame, daikon radish or bok choy. If you can’t find soba noodles, use another Asian noodle like lo mein or ramen or even just regular spaghetti. Any nut butter would work here, but to make it nut-free, substitute tahini for the peanut butter and omit the peanuts. This salad makes excellent leftovers — the longer it sits in the dressing, the better. N OT E : In keeping with the Asian theme, feel free to add soy sauce, ginger and fresh garlic to the poaching liquid. FO R T H E D R E SS I N G :

⅓ ¼ ¼ 1 1

1-2 1-2 2

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cup natural (no sugar added) smooth peanut butter cup soy sauce cup lime juice clove garlic, minced cube frozen ginger (such as Dorot), thawed or 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger tablespoons Sriracha, or to taste tablespoons honey tablespoons neutral oil

cup sugar snap peas, thinly sliced on the bias

scallions, thinly sliced on the bias

radishes, thinly sliced

mango, julienned or 1 cup fresh pineapple, cubed

cup mixed soft herbs such as mint, cilantro and basil, divided

tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

cup roasted salted peanuts, chopped

1. For the dressing, combine peanut butter, soy sauce and lime juice in a wide-mouth jar, then add a splash of hot water and whisk or shake vigorously to incorporate the peanut butter. Once smooth, add garlic, ginger, Sriracha and honey. Shake again until fully incorporated. Add oil and shake again until smooth. If dressing is too thick to pour, add water, 1 teaspoon at a time, as needed. 2. For the salad, slice or shred the chicken, then add to a very large bowl with soba noodles. Add vegetables, mango and half the herbs. 3. Pour dressing over the salad (you may have more than you need) and toss very well with

FO R T H E SA L A D:

tongs or a gloved hand to incorporate the dress-

ing and vegetables into the noodles. Top with

chicken breasts, poached (see method above)

remaining herbs, sesame seeds and peanuts. www.fleishigs.com

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Devorah Backman has two children, lives in Teaneck, NJ and works as a publicist in the kitchenware and book publishing industries. Devorah and her sister Chana Z. Weiss showcase their love of cooking and entertaining on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

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Sabich Chicken Salad with Tahini Amba Dressing Serves: 4-6 as a main, 8-10 as a side

An Israeli sabich sandwich typically consists of fried eggplant, fresh vegetables and hard-boiled eggs, but this salad version is bulked up with poached chicken. For perfectly hard-boiled eggs, plunge eggs into boiling water and boil for exactly 8 minutes, then immediately transfer to an ice bath. The beauty of this recipe is that most of it can be done in advance (poach the chicken, fry the eggplant and boil the eggs). N OT E : Add 1 tablespoon shawarma seasoning to the poaching liquid to enhance the Israeli flavors. FO R T H E D R E SS I N G :

¼ ¼ ¼ 2 1 1 ½

cup mayonnaise cup pure tahini paste cup extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons amba tablespoon chopped preserved lemon (such as Mina) Juice of 1 lemon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

FO R T H E SA L A D:

1 2 2 6

3 4 2 1 ¼ 1 ½

1 1

Japanese eggplant, thinly sliced into rounds teaspoons kosher salt, divided tablespoons neutral oil cups shredded romaine lettuce or other greens of choice, such as shredded cabbage, red leaf lettuce, baby kale or spinach chicken breasts, poached (see method above) hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered Persian cucumbers, diced beefsteak tomato, diced red onion, diced tablespoon olive oil Juice of ¼ lemon cup pickled red onions, canned Israeli pickled eggplants or canned Israeli pickles cup pita chips (homemade or store bought), crushed tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1. For the dressing, combine all ingredients and whisk well. If dressing is too thick to pour, add water, 1 teaspoon at a time, as needed. Set aside. 2. For the salad, arrange eggplant on a cutting board and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt; set aside. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Pat eggplant dry with paper towels, then fry, working in batches, until golden brown on both sides. 4. To build the salad, add greens to a large, shallow bowl. Slice chicken breast and arrange on top of the greens with eggplant and hard-boiled eggs. 5. Toss cucumbers, tomatoes and red onions with olive oil, lemon juice and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Add it to the salad. Top with pickled onions. 6. Drizzle dressing over salad, then top with pita chips and parsley. DECEMBER 2021

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The Ultimate Roasted Chicken Breast Serves: 4

By: Shifra Klein

I have made this recipe so many times and used the chicken in so many different applications. It always results in the most succulent, juicy chicken breast — every time. This version uses lemon pepper, but you can use any spice rub and aromatics you have on hand. N OT E S :

• Bone-in, skin-on chicken breast will give you the best results. • I can’t stress enough how important freshly ground black pepper is for recipes like this that rely on only a few ingredients, which act as flavor bombs. Store bought ground black pepper in a shaker simply doesn’t cut it. It’s worth grinding your own black pepper with a simple pepper mill (most have a few settings, allowing you to choose coarse, medium and fine, such as the OXO Contoured Mess-Free Pepper Grinder. 4

2 2 1 2

bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts red onion, sliced or cut into wedges lemons, sliced tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place chicken on a baking sheet and surround with onions and lemons. 2. Drizzle oil over the chicken and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Rub into the chicken and roast, uncovered, for 40 minutes. For extra crispy skin, broil for 2-3 minutes.

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Bran-Crusted OvenBaked Schnitzel Serves: 4-6

By: Shifra Klein

Whether oven-baked schnitzel is ever as good as fried is a constant debate. Whatever side you take, however, it is undoubtedly easier and healthier to bake schnitzel instead of frying. There are tons of recipes out there, but I constantly come back to this timeless recipe that I wrote for Bitayavon magazine back in 2010. As we were planning the dinner issue, I knew I wanted to bring it back to the public. The bran flakes lend a wonderful hearty texture. N OT E : Pound the chicken breasts as thin as you’d like for schnitzel or use thinly sliced chicken cutlets if your butcher offers that option.

½ 2 1-2 2 ½ 4 3-4

cup mayonnaise tablespoons Dijon mustard tablespoons honey teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded thinly cups bran flakes cereal, lightly crushed

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Mix mayonnaise, mustard, honey, salt and pepper. Place chicken on a greased baking sheet. 2. Brush both sides of chicken with the mixture, then dip each side in crushed bran flakes. Cook for 18-20 minutes.

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By: Adina Silberman With its lighter flavor and lower fat content, ground chicken is arguably not as flavorful on its own as other ground meat options. While that may be the case, it is a true blank canvas that takes on whatever flavor profiles are added to it and, when cooked properly, results in a juicy and flavorful meal that may rival its counterparts. With its cheaper price point, ground chicken is a great choice for weeknight dinner. These recipes will change the way you feel about the power of simple ground chicken. The best part about them is that they require only one pan, making weeknight dinner a breeze.

Spiced Chicken Meatballs and Rice with Dill and Roasted Tomatoes Serves: 6

The fresh flavors of dill and lemon balance perfectly with the light flavor of ground chicken. It’s a whole new take on the ever popular chicken-and-rice dish. FO R T H E M E AT BA L LS :

1 pound ground chicken 1 egg ½ cup panko breadcrumbs 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes ¾ teaspoon allspice ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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FO R T H E R I C E :

½ 2 1 1 2 1 2-3 2 ½ 1

cup olive oil large yellow onions, thinly sliced tablespoon nutritional yeast tablespoon kosher salt teaspoons garlic powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups whole grape tomatoes cups chopped fresh dill, divided cup jasmine rice Zest and juice of 1 lemon, divided

1. For the meatballs, mix ground chicken, egg, breadcrumbs, lemon juice and spices until just combined. Form about 20 (1½inch) meatballs. Set aside. 2. For the rice, heat olive oil in a deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, nutritional yeast and

spices and sauté until browned and softened, about 12-15 minutes. 3. Add tomatoes and cook until they burst, about 8-10 minutes. Add 2 cups dill, rice, 2½ cups water and half the lemon zest and lemon juice and stir to combine. Bring to a boil. 4. Return meatballs to the skillet, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes, until rice is cooked through and liquid is absorbed. If there seems to be too much water and the rice has already cooked through, uncover and allow the remaining liquid to boil out. 5. Garnish with remaining lemon zest, lemon juice and dill.

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P RO

T I P

For either of these recipes, feel free to use ground beef, lamb or veal. You can even mix half ground chicken with half of any of those options. Vegan ground “meat” (i.e. Beyond Meat; Impossible Foods) also works well!

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Herbed Chicken Meatballs with Caramelized Vegetables & Spiced Tahini Serves: 6

This dish brings something slightly new to the table, while still utilizing familiar ingredients and flavors. The creamy spiced tahini takes it over the top. FO R T H E C H I C K E N M E AT BA L LS :

1 1 ½ 2 1 ¾ ¾ ½

pound ground chicken egg, beaten cup panko breadcrumbs teaspoons nutritional yeast teaspoon paprika teaspoon garam masala teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons olive oil

FO R T H E CA R A M E L I Z E D V EG E TA B L E S :

¼ 4 2 1 3 3 2 2 ½

cup olive oil cups cubed butternut squash large red onions, thinly sliced teaspoon kosher salt tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoons maple syrup tablespoons sherry cooking wine tablespoons nutritional yeast Spiced Tahini (recipe follows), to serve cup chopped fresh mint, to serve

1. For the meatballs, mix ground chicken, egg, breadcrumbs, nutritional yeast and spices until just combined. Form about 20 (1½-inch) meatballs. Set aside. 2. Heat olive oil in a deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear meatballs for 1-2 minutes per side, until browned. Transfer meatballs to a plate and set aside. 3. For the caramelized vegetables, heat olive oil in the skillet. Add butternut squash, red onions and salt and sauté until lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar, maple syrup, sherry and nutritional yeast and sauté until vegetables are soft and browned and most of the liquid has reduced, about 12-15 minutes. 4. Return meatballs to the skillet, then lower heat. Add ¼ cup water and simmer, covered, until squash is tender and meatballs are warmed, about 10 minutes. Serve with tahini and fresh mint.

Spiced Tahini Yield: 1 Heaping cup

Mix ½ cup tahini, the juice of 1 lemon, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon garam masala or baharat. Slowly add ⅓ cup ice cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing vigorously until tahini loosens and comes together into a creamy sauce.

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L'CHAIM

R A M O N C A R D O VA

VITKIN GRENACHE

BARON HERZOG CHENIN BLANC

RIOJA CRIANZA 2018

BLANC 2018

2020

SABICH CHICKEN SALAD WITH TAHINI AMBA DRESSING (PAGE 31); POACHED CHICKEN AND SOBA NOODLE SALAD WITH PEANUT DRESSING (PAGE 28)

POACHED CHICKEN (PAGE 27)

THE ULTIMATE ROASTED CHICKEN BREAST (PAGE 33)

Yes, chicken can also be enjoyed with a red wine. This option is medium-bodied with fruity, earthy and herbaceous notes that complements both of these dishes perfectly.

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This complex, flavorful white wine is medium to full-bodied with a nice viscosity. The natural savoriness of the chicken, which is further highlighted by poaching, is elevated by the textures and layers of flavors characterized by this wine.

A great QPR, retailing under $10, this is an iconic choice. It is light to medium-bodied with refreshing acidity, citrus fruit notes and a subtle touch of sweetness. That combination is perfect to match the weight of this dish and the lemony, slightly spicy flavors. SUMAC ROASTED CHICKEN AND SWEET POTATOES (PAGE 44)

Juicy chicken and warm sweet potatoes make for an excellent match with this fruity, vibrant wine.

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L'CHAIM

E LV I C AVA B R U T HERBED CHICKEN MEATBALLS WITH CARAMELIZED VEGETABLES AND SPICED TAHINI (PAGE 39); BRAN-CRUSTED OVENBAKED SCHNITZEL (PAGE 34)

Butternut squash with tahini is a delightful savory and sweet pairing. The fruity and sour notes of the Cava pair well with the creaminess of the tahini and the bubbles will make the dish pop even more! Breaded chicken is a natural choice for sparkling wine, especially a fruity and yeasty one like this.

LES LAURIERS DE ROTHSCHILD ROSÉ 2020 SPICED CHICKEN MEATBALLS AND RICE WITH DILL AND ROASTED TOMATOES (PAGE 36)

The combination of dill and tomatoes goes quite nicely with the herbaceous and grapefruit notes present in this rosé, which has good body to match the meatballs. SOUS VIDE CHICKEN BREAST (PAGE 74)

The freshness and tenderness of the chicken in this elevated Caesar salad enhance this French rosé, which in turn enhances the dish.

WINE & FOOD PAIRINGS 101 A WINE EXPERT'S THOUGHT PROCESS ON THE PERFECT WINE PAIRINGS FOR CHICKEN.

BY: GABRIEL GELLER

Wine pairings are growing quite popular in the kosher community. One question I am asked frequently is how I know how to pair a given dish with a specific wine. Good news, folks. The answer is much more straightforward than you may think. The basics of wine and food pairing are not red with meat, white with fish and sweet with dessert. What matters most is that the wine does not overpower the food and vice versa. To achieve that, it is important to match the “body” of the food with the “body” of the wine. For example, chicken breast is light to medium-bodied in terms of heaviness, texture and flavor. Therefore, it requires a wine that is light to medium-bodied. Red or white? That depends on how it’s prepared and the spices, herbs and/or sauce accompanying the dish. With a nice ribeye steak, a full-bodied dry red wine will be the starting point. From there, play around with matching the spices or the sauces. To balance out spicy notes, I advise going for a slightly sweeter or fruitier wine; and for savory dishes, an earthy wine. A relatively fatty dish will require a wine with higher acidity to cut through the fat and keep it from cloying the taste buds. Having said all of this, I highly encourage you to play around with various pairings and experiment with different types of wine with your food. Here are some of my suggestions based on the chicken dishes throughout this issue.

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GLOBAL FLAVORS

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GLOBAL FLAVORS

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GLOBAL FLAVORS

moved to Israel over 14 years ago and the first flavor I explored, learned about and finally gave a permanent home to in my kitchen was sumac. Its deep, dark pink hue is what called to me at first, but the second I tasted its deep acidic flavors, I was hooked for life! Being the acid lover that I am — give it to me through vinegar, wine, citrus, buttermilk (literally in any form) — sumac truly spoke to my soul. Growing up in a Moroccan home, the spice cabinet was a heavily trafficked area when it came to cooking. Proteins were spiced liberally, but it didn’t stop there. Salads, both cooked and raw, grains and vegetables were all given the royal pinch-and-dash treatments. Adding a spice that could incorporate those tart and citrusy notes was the perfect Middle Eastern influence to my new Israeli kitchen. WHAT IS SUMAC?

For the most part, spices come from seeds, bark or vegetables that are ground (sometimes dried first). Sumac is actually a small pink berry that is grown in many countries. In some regions of the world, it’s in fact poisonous and therefore just beautiful trees that adorn the roadsides. In the Middle East region, however, the berries are absolutely edible and delicious! HOW DOES IT GO FROM BERRY TO SPICE?

The large clusters of pink berries are usually ground to separate the outer part of the berry from the inside hard seed. The part we enjoy is actually the outer layer (the skin) of the berry. The seed is much more mild in flavor and color. If your sumac is not a dark, deep crimson pink, beware — you probably purchased a low-grade version that reincorporates the more mild ground seed into the outer flesh that we prefer! The berries are harvested just before they fully ripen and are dried in the sun, then ground to create the spice. Most large supermarkets with a well-stocked spice aisle will likely have sumac. I always recommend reading the back of the label to make sure the only ingredient in your spice bottle is sumac! I will say that there is nothing like spices directly from the Shuk. I was recently gifted the best sumac I’ve ever had in my life from my friend, cookbook author and Tel Aviv resident Adeena Sussman, which was slightly wet (versus 100% dried) — so fresh, vibrant and flavorful! HOW DO I USE IT?

Experimenting with new flavors and techniques allows me to explore the world through my kitchen. I hope to send a little bit of that wanderlust and some delicious food your way.

Sumac Roasted Chicken and Sweet Potatoes Serves: 6

This seemingly simple sheet pan chicken recipe was devoured by everyone who tried it. The spices create magic and the sweet potatoes are the perfect balanced pairing. N OT E S :

• I like to put on a pair of gloves and really get in there to make sure the spice rub is evenly distributed on the chicken. • This chicken reheats really well. We cooked it Friday afternoon on the baking sheet as directed, then transferred it to a 9x13-inch baking dish, covered it 44

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tightly and kept it in a 200°F oven until the Friday night Shabbos meal — it was completely devoured! 12 2

2 4 ⅓ 5 2 2 1

chicken drumsticks large sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed yellow onions, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoons sumac teaspoons onion powder teaspoons coriander teaspoon paprika

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange chicken, sweet potatoes, onions and garlic on a baking sheet. Mix olive oil and spices and rub onto chicken. 2. Cook, uncovered, for 50-60 minutes. www.fleishigs.com

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Mediterranean Chopped Salad with Sumac Vinaigrette Serves: 6

This is the perfect chopped salad that will complement almost any meal and can even be made slightly in advance. It is packed with fresh flavor and tons of crunchy vegetables, just chop everything roughly the same size for uniformity. N OT E S :

• You will have more vinaigrette than you need for this salad recipe, so keep it in the fridge for up to three weeks for when the mood strikes again — and it will! • Removing the seeds from the cucumbers is an extra step that you don’t want to skip! It makes all the difference, in my opinion. • Bulking up a salad with protein is always a good idea. For a dairy option, think Bulgarian or feta cheese. For a vegan option, consider adding chickpeas or some cooked lentils. For a heartier option, I love adding thinly sliced grilled chicken or even a Moroccan-style kefta chopped up right into the salad. FO R T H E D R E SS I N G :

2 1 1 1 ½ ⅔ 1

Juice of 1 lemon (about ¼ cup) tablespoons white wine vinegar tablespoon sumac clove garlic, minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper cup extra-virgin olive oil tablespoon honey (optional)

FO R T H E SA L A D:

4 1 1 1 1 1 4 ½ ½

Persian cucumbers, halved lengthwise, seeded and finely diced kohlrabi, finely diced bulb fennel, thinly sliced head endive, thinly sliced shallot, minced green apple, finely diced fresh mint leaves, finely chopped cup fresh cilantro, leaves only cup fresh parsley, leaves only

1. For the dressing, add all ingredients to a jar and shake vigorously. 2. For the salad, mix everything in a bowl and toss with dressing to combine.

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Sumac and Sesame Cookies Yield: 26-28 cookies

You wouldn’t expect to use a spice like sumac in a dessert recipe, but its slight sweetness balances wonderfully with tahini in this shortbread-style cookie. S H I F R A’S N OT E : This recipe was originally dairy (made with butter) and when we tried it, it blew our minds — it was the best shortbread cookie we’ve ever had. We particularly loved the sweet-and-savory notes the sumac brought to the table. However, we are Fleishigs after all, so we adapted it into a non-dairy version, but highly recommend the dairy version as well.

FO R T H E C O O K I E S :

¾ 2 2 1 2¼ 1 ½

cup (227g) non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature cup (170g) sugar tablespoons (32g) pure tahini paste teaspoons pure vanilla extract large egg cup (341g) all-purpose flour tablespoon sumac teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E C OAT I N G :

3 3 1

tablespoons sesame seeds tablespoons (45g) sugar tablespoon + 1 teaspoon sumac

1. For the cookies, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter and sugar on medium speed for 2-3 minutes, scraping down the sides once or twice to incorporate evenly. 2. With the mixer on low speed, add tahini and vanilla. Add egg and beat on medium speed until incorporated. Add flour, sumac

and salt and mix on low speed until just incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Once flour is mostly combined, continue folding dough using a rubber spatula, which eliminates over-mixing. 3. Scoop dough onto the center of a 15inch piece of parchment paper. Roll the parchment over the dough and use your hands to smooth the dough into a 2x13-inch log. 4. For the coating, mix sesame seeds, sugar and sumac. Unwrap the log of dough and sprinkle the coating all over, on all sides, making sure it’s fully coated. 5. Wrap log in parchment paper and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. 6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove the log of dough from the refrigerator and cut ½-inch thick slices. Arrange on parchmentlined baking sheets about 1-inch apart. Bake for 10 minutes, then let cool on the baking sheet for another 10 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack.

Danielle Renov was born and raised in New York and brings her Moroccan and Mediterranean-inspired recipes to a worldwide audience from her Jerusalem home. Danielle, a wife and mother, shares her love of cooking through videos, recipe developing and cooking demos with a huge smile and laughter. Danielle’s popular new book, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook, released in July 2020 by Artscroll, reflects her cooking style and infectious personality. Danielle lives in Israel with her husband and children can be reached through Instagram @peaslovencarrots and her website peaslovencarrots.com. DECEMBER 2021

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SEASONAL

BY: ADINA SILBERMAN HEARTY SOUPS ARE A WELCOME ADDITION TO THE WINTER

DINNER

TA B L E ,

WHETHER FOR A LIGHT MAIN OR A SIDE DISH. IT’S EXCITING TO PL AY WITH TEXTURES AND FLAVORS AND SOUP IS THE PERFECT WAY TO EXPERIMENT. 50

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Carrot and Lentil Soup with Collard Greens Serves: 8 E D I TO R’S N OT E : Be sure to use unsweetened coconut cream and not cream of coconut, which is highly sweetened. See page 16 for our favorite brand recommendation.

¼ 1

2 2 1½ 2 1 1 ½

cup olive oil large yellow onion, thinly sliced large leek, white parts only, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced tablespoons nutritional yeast tablespoons freshly grated ginger teaspoons kosher salt teaspoons cumin teaspoons coriander teaspoon turmeric

3-4

¾ ⅓ 3

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon chili paste (optional) carrots, thinly sliced (about 2 cups) (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes cups red lentils cup coconut cream (optional) Juice of ½ lemon cups chopped collard greens

1. Heat oil in a deep stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and leeks and sauté for about 10 minutes, until tender. Add garlic, nutritional yeast, ginger, spices and chili paste, if using. Sauté for another 5-7 minutes, until softened and golden. 2. Add carrots, tomatoes, lentils and 10 cups of water. Bring to a rolling boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until lentils are tender, about 25 minutes. 3. Stir in coconut cream, if using. Add lemon juice and collard greens and cook, covered, until greens wilt, about 10-12 minutes.

N E W T EC H N I Q U E

Faux Soup Mix Instead of soup mixes, which are often overly salty and hard to balance with other flavors, creating a base of onions sautéed with salt, various spices and nutritional yeast accomplishes similar results and allows you to keep tabs on the flavor.

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SEASONAL

Roasted Tomato Basil Soup with Crispy Rice Serves: 8-10

The best part about this recipe is its versatility. Not only is it an excellent soup, but it serves as a delicious sauce for pasta or even shakshuka. Roasting the tomatoes gets rid of any sharp acidity and enhances their natural sweetness. S H I F R A'S N OT E : We purchased cooked sushi rice from the sushi counter at our local supermarket and appreciated the added flavor it lended to the soup, as sushi rice is often seasoned with a rice vinegar and sugar mixture. FO R T H E ROAST E D TO M ATO E S :

3 3 ¼ 2 2

pounds Roma tomatoes, halved lengthwise cloves garlic cup olive oil tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoons maple syrup

FO R T H E SO U P:

¼ 2 1 1 ½ 1

cup olive oil large yellow onions, thinly sliced tablespoon nutritional yeast teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup fresh basil

FO R T H E C R I S PY R I C E :

¼ 1½

cup oil cups leftover white rice

1. Preheat oven to 450°F, Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss tomatoes and garlic with oil, balsamic vinegar and maple syrup. Arrange on the baking sheet, cut side up, and roast for 40-45 minutes, until golden. 2. Meanwhile, prepare the soup by heating olive oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, nutritional yeast, salt and pepper and sauté until softened and golden, about 12-15 minutes. 3. Add basil and 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, until tomatoes are ready. Add tomatoes with accumulated pan juices and boil, covered, for 10 minutes. 4. Remove from heat and blend using an immersion blender or food processor until smooth. 5. For the crispy rice topping, heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Once hot, add rice and use a spatula or wooden spoon to press evenly into a single layer. Cook undisturbed for 3 minutes, until browned, then break rice into large pieces, flip and continue cooking until browned, an additional 3 minutes. To serve, top soup with crispy rice. DECEMBER 2021

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Pea Soup with Fluffy Drop Dumplings Serves: 8 N OT E : The soup freezes well, but the dumplings are best fresh, so make them right before serving. FO R T H E SO U P:

¼ 2 1 1 1 ½

1 1

cup olive oil large yellow onions, thinly sliced tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon nutritional yeast teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish (16-ounce) bag frozen peas cup chopped celery

FO R T H E D U M P L I N GS :

1 2 ½ ½

cup all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon kosher salt cup warm water

1. For the soup, heat oil in a deep stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and salt and sauté for about 10 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add nutritional yeast, garlic powder and black pepper and sauté for another 5-7 minutes, until softened and golden. 2. Add frozen peas, celery and 6 cups of water. Bring to a rolling boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, make the dumplings by mixing all ingredients with a fork until combined. Set aside. 4. Remove soup from heat and blend using an immersion blender or food processor until smooth. Return to low heat. 5. Use 2 spoons to drop dumplings into the soup, about 2 tablespoons each in size (it should yield 8-10 dumplings). Cover and simmer dumplings for 10-12 minutes. Serve immediately. Garnish with additional freshly ground black pepper.

Adina Silberman is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking, with a simple food philosophy — she cooks backwards, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks turn their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and two daughters.

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TH E RE I S SO M E TH I N G so thrilling about using staple dishes in various ways throughout the week. It's truly the essence of the Prep + Rally meal prep plan, which helps save so much time, effort and even food waste! We prep staple items on Sunday and then rally throughout the week by quickly assembling them into unique and delicious dinners with zero stress. I love creating these menus because each meal is its own little puzzle that's

built in a very specific way to make your time in the kitchen as efficient and enjoyable as can be. In this brand new, exclusive menu, roasted garlic is the star of the show and finds its way into three different meals. Rice and broccolini are used twice in two totally different dinners. I'm taking you around the world with this menu and you'll want to buckle up for the ride because these recipes are bursting with flavor!

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DINNER FEAST

M E N U

Grocery List

(Numbers in parenthesis indicate which recipe will use that particular ingredient)

PRODUCE 2 heads garlic (#1) 1 onion (#2) 4 stalks celery (#2, #6) 1 red bell pepper (#2) 1 green pepper (#2) 1 bunch cilantro (#2 + some for Rally) 1 knob fresh ginger (#4) 4 bunches broccolini (#5) 2 bunches large bok choy (not baby) (#6)

Paprika (#2) Oregano (#2) Garlic powder (#2) Cumin (#2) Long grain white basmati rice (#3) Low-sodium soy sauce (#4, #7) Barbecue sauce (#4) Toasted sesame oil (#4. #9) Honey (#4, #7, #8) Rice wine vinegar (#7) Dijon mustard (#7, #8) Dark brown sugar (#8)

1 bunch scallions (#6 + some for Rally)

Natural unsalted peanuts (#8)

THAI PEANUT CRUSTED

1 English cucumber (#6)

Hot sauce, optional (Rally)

SALMON WITH ROASTED

1 bunch chives (#7)

1 pound fusilli pasta (Rally)

4 limes (Rally)

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas (Rally)

GARLICKY BROCCOLINI

2 avocados (Rally) 2 lemons (Rally)

PERISHABLES

STICKY KOREAN BBQ CHICKEN WITH RICE

PANTRY

Eggs (#2)

AND BOK CHOY SALAD

Olive oil

Grated Parmesan (Rally)

WITH SOY VINAIGRETTE

Kosher salt

MEXICAN MEATBALL AND RICE SOUP

Freshly ground black pepper

PROTEINS

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste (#2, #4)

1½ pounds ground beef (#2)

2 (32-ounce) cartons vegetable or beef broth (#2) Bay leaves (#2)

ONE POT LEMONY

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (#4) 4 (6-8 ounce) skin-on salmon fillets

Panko breadcrumbs (#2, #8)

BROCCOLINI FUSILLI NOTE: All the recipes below serve 4-6. Feel free to adjust as needed for your family.

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PREP

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1. WHOLE ROASTED GARLIC

5. GARLICKY BROCCOLINI

2 . MEXICAN MEATBALL SOUP

6. BOK CHOY SALAD

3 . RICE

7. SOY VINAIGRETTE

4 . STICKY KOREAN BBQ CHICKEN

8. THAI PEANUT CRUSTED SALMON

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1. Whole Roasted Garlic Preheat oven to 425°F. Slice the tops off of 2 garlic heads, exposing the cloves. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Wrap tightly in foil to seal. Place directly on the oven rack and roast for 45-55 minutes. You know it’s ready when the garlic cloves are super soft and can be squeezed out easily. Unwrap and let cool; set aside to use later in your prep.

2. Mexican Meatball Soup FO R T H E SO U P:

2 1 2 1 1 1 6 2 1

tablespoons oil onion, diced stalks celery, diced red bell pepper, diced green bell pepper, diced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste tablespoon tomato paste cups vegetable or beef broth bay leaves bunch fresh cilantro or parsley

FO R T H E M E AT BA L LS :

1½ pounds ground beef 1 egg ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder ¾ teaspoon cumin ¾ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon oregano ¼ teaspoon pepper 1. For the soup, heat oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery and peppers and season with a liberal pinch of salt and pepper. Sauté for 5-8 minutes, until caramelized and vegetables have softened. 2. Add tomato paste and mix for an additional 1-2 minutes to incorporate. Add broth, bay leaves and cilantro and season with more salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. 3. For the meatballs, mix ground beef, egg, breadcrumbs and spices until just incorporated. Roll into roughly 25 meatballs and carefully lower them into the simmering soup. Let cook, covered, for 35-40 minutes. 4. Discard bay leaves and taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. 62

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T I P: If you prefer a thicker and creamier soup, feel free to remove the meatballs, blend soup with an immersion blender or food processor, then add the meatballs back in.

3. Rice In a large saucepan, bring 3½ cups water and 2 teaspoons kosher salt to a boil. Rinse 2 cups long grain white basmati rice in a mesh sieve until the water runs clear; shake to drain off any excess liquid. Add rice to the pot, stir briefly and bring back to a boil. Immediately lower heat and simmer, covered with a tight-fitting lid, for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and keep covered, allowing rice to steam for an additional 10 minutes.

4. Sticky Korean BBQ Chicken ⅓ 3 3 1 2 2 8

cup barbecue sauce tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce tablespoons honey tablespoon tomato paste teaspoons toasted sesame oil teaspoons minced fresh ginger bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Mix barbecue sauce, soy sauce, honey, tomato paste, sesame oil and ginger until combined. Set aside. 2. Line a 9x13-inch baking dish with parchment paper and add chicken thighs. Season both sides of the chicken liberally with salt and pepper. 3. Pour sauce over the chicken and roast for 45 minutes, until sauce has become sticky and chicken is cooked through.

5. Garlicky Broccolini 4 2-3 4-5

bunches broccolini, bottoms trimmed and stalks halved tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cloves roasted garlic (recipe #1)

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Toss broccolini with oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 minutes, until tender.

2. Squeeze garlic cloves onto the roasted broccolini and massage to coat.

6. Bok Choy Salad 2 3 2 ½

bunches bok choy (not baby), thinly sliced scallions, thinly sliced stalks celery, thinly sliced English cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced Soy Vinaigrette (recipe #7)

Combine salad ingredients in a large storage bowl with a lid. When ready to serve, toss with vinaigrette.

7. Soy Vinaigrette 6 ½ ¼ 2 2 1 1

cloves roasted garlic (recipe #1) cup rice vinegar cup olive oil tablespoons honey tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce tablespoon chives, finely minced teaspoon Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Mash garlic cloves to form a paste. Add to a jar with remaining ingredients, cover and shake vigorously. Alternatively, blend with an immersion blender.

8. Thai Peanut Crusted Salmon 2 1 1 5 ½ ¾ ½ 4

tablespoons dark brown sugar tablespoon honey tablespoon Dijon mustard cloves (or all remaining) roasted garlic (recipe #1) teaspoon toasted sesame oil cup natural unsalted peanuts, finely chopped cup panko breadcrumbs (6-8 ounce) skin-on salmon fillets Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. In a small bowl, mix brown sugar, honey, mustard, garlic and sesame oil. In a separate bowl, mix peanuts and breadcrumbs. 2. Place salmon in a 9x13-inch baking dish and season liberally with salt and pepper. 3. Coat each piece with the sauce mixture, then top with peanut-panko mixture. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or foil and store in the fridge to cook fresh prior to serving. www.fleishigs.com

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Thai Peanut Crusted Salmon with Roasted Garlicky Broccolini R A L LY I N G R E D I E N TS :

Thai Peanut Crusted Salmon Garlicky Broccolini (reserve 1-2 cups for One Pot Lemony Broccolini Fusilli)

A D D I T I O N A L I N G R E D I E N TS :

1-2 tablespoons oil 2 limes 1 handful cilantro, roughly chopped Hot sauce (optional) D I R ECT I O N S :

Preheat oven to 375°F. Uncover salmon and drizzle with oil. Cook for 25 minutes, until golden and flakes easily with a fork. Reheat the broccolini in the oven, uncovered, for 15 minutes, until warmed through. Serve salmon with lime wedges, cilantro and hot sauce, if desired. Serve broccolini on the side. 64

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Mexican Meatball and Rice Soup R A L LY I N G R E D I E N TS :

1½

Mexican Meatball Soup cups reserved rice

A D D I T I O N A L I N G R E D I E N TS :

2 1

avocados, cubed handful cilantro, roughly chopped 2 limes Add rice to the soup and heat over medium heat. Serve hot. Garnish with avocado, cilantro and lime wedges.

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Sticky Korean BBQ Chicken with Rice and Bok Choy Salad with Soy Vinaigrette R A L LY I N G R E D I E N TS :

Bok Choy Salad Soy Vinaigrette Sticky Korean BBQ Chicken Rice (reserve 1½ cups for the Mexican Meatball Soup)

A D D I T I O N A L I N G R E D I E N TS :

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Preheat oven to 300°F. Heat chicken, covered, for 30 minutes, until warmed through. Add a splash of water to the rice and heat, covered, in the same oven for 25-30 minutes, until warmed through. Meanwhile, toss salad with vinaigrette (reserve half of the salad and vinaigrette for another night, if desired). Serve salad alongside chicken and rice. Garnish with thinly sliced scallions.

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Dini Klein is a food host, recipe developer, former private chef and founder of the Prep + Rally family meal prep plan. Prep + Rally was Dini’s solution to getting a wholesome dinner on the table on those busy weeknights when juggling mommy-ing and work life felt almost impossible. Her system now helps thousands of busy families with her unique, stress-free meal plan structure designed to save time and money. Dini is currently in the process of writing her own cookbook, due to be released in the Fall of 2022. Dini has been featured in the Wall Street Journal and Goop and is on a mission to help every busy family enjoy more and stress less with the Prep + Rally system. Dini and her husband Mike live in Los Angeles with their three kids. Follow @prepandrally and visit prepandrally. com for lots more meal prep inspiration, cooking tips and oodles of unfiltered family fun.

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One Pot Lemony Broccolini Fusilli R A L LY I N G R E D I E N TS :

1-2

cups reserved Garlicky Broccolini, cut into bite-sized pieces Leftover Bok Choy Salad with Soy Vinaigrette (optional)

A D D I T I O N A L I N G R E D I E N TS :

1 1 1 ½ ½

pound fusilli pasta cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed Zest of 1 lemon Juice of 2 lemons teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste cup grated Parmesan* Chives, finely minced

1. Add broccolini, pasta, 5 cups water, chickpeas, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt and pepper to a 6-quart stock pot and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes, until pasta is cooked through and most of the water has absorbed. 2. Stir in the Parmesan and season with additional salt and pepper as needed. Garnish with chives. Serve immediately alongside leftover bok choy salad, if desired. *See page 112 for a non-dairy option.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

We recently hosted a Fleishigs Culinary School special with Chef Isaac Bernstein at the AJ Madison / Sub-Zero / Wolf / Cove showroom in Midtown Manhattan (watch the live on Instagram @fleishigsmag). The topic was sous vide and Chef Isaac addressed viewers’ questions live. His answers were so informative that we decided to compile it into a sous vide 101.

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WHAT IS SOUS VIDE? Sous vide (literally “under vacuum”) is the process of cooking under controlled temperatures with an immersion circulator that sets water to a precise, steady temperature. Food is sealed in plastic bags, immersed in water and then, depending on what you are cooking, can take anywhere from a few hours up to 1-3 days for perfect results every time.

IS IT WORTH THE HYPE? The short answer is yes. Cooking this way allows you to “set it and forget it” with guaranteed results — the main reason people love it. There are so many resources out there to figure out times and temperatures for whatever you are cooking. For instance, Anova, one of the leaders in sous vide cookery, provides a wealth of information online. Practice truly makes perfect and while it does take experimentation and patience, it has a quick learning curve and the process itself is not very complex. A large part of cooking in general is effort; with sous vide, the effort is in learning precision. It won’t take more than a few uses to master the basic techniques.

WHY SOUS VIDE? This method allows amateur cooks to cook on a more professional level and takes a lot of the guesswork out of perfectly cooking meat. It is also a great way to cook expensive cuts ahead of time or cook batches of food in advance. You can sous vide a big batch of salmon, for example, then freeze it and defrost as needed.

WHAT TOOLS ARE NEEDED? • Immersion circulator. The machine itself is the biggest investment, although relatively inexpensive for an appliance (about $130 for a standard model) and takes up

as much room as an immersion blender. • Tub or large pot. I recommend a large plastic dough bucket or a Dutch oven — it all depends on the size of the food you’re cooking. • Cover for the pot to prevent water from evaporating. Food-grade plastic wrap works well too. • Sous vide bags. Ziploc bags work as well, but make sure to use freezer-safe bags, which are thicker and safer for sous vide cooking. • Vacuum sealer. This is not required, but recommended if you plan to use the sous vide often. Alternatively, use the water displacement method with Ziploc bags — place the food into a Ziploc, then lower it into the water bath (keeping it open). The pressure of the water will force the air out of the bag. Once you see that most of the air is out of the bag, seal it.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PROTEIN TO COOK SOUS VIDE? Cooking short ribs at 156°F for 24 hours or 140°F for 48 hours results in the most tender meat without needing to babysit it. Sous vide cooking also elevates cheaper cuts of meat, like chuck roast or a lamb shoulder, which is about a third of the price of lamb chops, yet just as decadent when prepared this way.

in NYC, demonstrated how to make soup by gently cooking vegetables with aromatics and cream in the sous vide, then puréeing to silky perfection (recipe follows). Sous vide cooking definitely goes beyond meat!

IS SOUS VIDE COOKING CONDUCIVE FOR WORKING PARENTS? An immersion circulator is actually a great tool for advance cooking when you want dinner to be ready when you get home. Choose cuts of meat, such as London broil, that need at least 6-8 hours in the sous vide. Add it to the water bath in the morning, then come home to perfectly cooked meat that needs no more than a quick sear. Check out the Fleishigs app for the recipe for Sous Vide Shoulder London Broil from issue #1!

WHAT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO COOK VIA SOUS VIDE? Rib roast is so good cooked in the oven. There is something about cooking meat with fire that sous vide cooking simply cannot replicate, since cooking over fire is one of the oldest techniques we have. Also, never use raw garlic when cooking sous vide because of the risk of botulism. Alternatively, use garlic confit, which is already cooked, or garlic oil to impart a garlic flavor

BESIDES PROTEIN, WHAT ELSE WORKS BEST?

ARE THERE ANY OTHER SPECIFIC TIPS FOR SUCCESS?

Vegetables like eggplant, onions and cabbage (recipe follows) are completely transformed when cooked sous vide, resulting in molten centers. Just a quick char on the grill will then give it a smoky flavor. Chef Phillip Raspanti, Corporate Chef at the Sub-Zero / Wolf / Cove headquarters

If freezing the cooked food, make sure to cool it completely first. To prevent carryover cooking, place the bag directly from the water bath into a bowl of ice water. If searing meat after being cooked via sous vide, always pat it dry completely to achieve the perfect sear.

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Sous Vide Chicken Breast Serves: 4

This method guarantees perfectly cooked chicken breast every time. 4 3 1

boneless, skin-on chicken breasts tablespoons garlic oil teaspoon kosher salt

1. Set sous vide to 141°F. Place chicken breast in a sous vide bag with garlic oil and salt. Seal tightly and cook for 90 minutes. Let cool completely. 2. Heat grill or grill pan over medium-high heat and sear chicken until golden brown.

Sous Vide Brick Roast Serves: 10

This roast feeds a crowd and can be used in so many ways. It’s even better the next day served at room temperature, making it a wonderful recipe that can transition from Friday night to Shabbos lunch. See how we served it up on page 114. 2 1 2 1 ⅛ 2-4 1

tablespoons smoked paprika tablespoon brown sugar teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) tablespoons oil, for searing (4-pound) brick or French roast

1. Set sous vide to 135°F. Mix paprika, brown sugar, salt, pepper and cayenne, if using. Rub all over the meat, then place in a sous vide bag. Seal tightly and cook for 24 hours. 2. Pat meat dry with paper towels. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sear meat for 6 minutes per side, until golden brown.

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Roasted Garlic Caesar

Garlic Breadcrumbs

Yield: 3 heaping cups

Yields: 1½ cups

This all-purpose dressing is packed with flavor elevated with the addition of fresh herbs.

These breadcrumbs add a flavorful crunch and an alternative to the classic crouton. They are addictive and may become your new favorite salad topper.

2⅓ ¼ 5 2 2 1 1 ½ 2 ⅓ ⅓

cups mayonnaise cup garlic confit (drained of oil) cloves garlic tablespoons capers tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoon Dijon mustard teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon cup chopped fresh chives cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Blend mayonnaise, garlic confit, garlic, 3 tablespoons water, capers, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper in a high-powered blender until combined. 2. Fold in fresh herbs. Taste and season with more salt and pepper, as needed.

Garlic Confit Preheat oven to 300°F. Place 2 cups garlic cloves in an oven-safe dish. Cover garlic completely with oil. Cook, covered, for 1 hour. See Fleishigs app for Chef Isaac’s recipe for microwave garlic confit ("Garlic Confit + Oil" from March 2019 / issue #5).

N OT E : Garlic flavored olive oil is a wonderful ingredient to have on hand to infuse extra flavor into almost anything. Look for it wherever oils are sold (i.e. Good & Gather garlic-infused extravirgin olive, see page 16) or use oil from garlic confit.

Toast 1½ cups challah breadcrumbs (page 99) or panko breadcrumbs in a dry pan over medium heat until golden, about 3-5 minutes. Toss with 3 tablespoons garlic oil, 1½ teaspoons flaky sea salt and the leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme.

Sous Vide Cabbage Serves: 4

Sous vide cabbage is a wonderful way to enjoy this humble vegetable, which is growing in popularity. By cooking it in a sous vide, its hearty interior melts and is completely elevated. All it needs is a char on the outside for that perfect balance of flavor and texture. 1 2

head green cabbage, quartered tablespoons duck fat, schmaltz or olive oil sprig fresh thyme

1. Set sous vide to 196°F. Brush cabbage with duck fat. Place in a sous vide bag with thyme. Seal tightly and cook for 1 hour. Let cool completely. 2. Heat grill or grill pan over medium-high heat and sear cabbage until slightly charred.

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Sous Vide Butternut Squash Soup Yield: 1 quart

By: Chef Phillip Raspanti

Chef Phillip’s job as the Corporate Chef at the Sub-Zero / Wolf / Cove headquarters in NYC allows him to constantly try new cooking techniques and experiment with new equipment. This recipe is a perfect example of merging his fine skills with approachable techniques like cooking with a sous vide. 78

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2 1¾ 1 ⅓ 1 1

cups water or vegetable stock cups coconut cream pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced cup diced Spanish onion clove garlic, smashed (½-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste Toasted pepitas, for garnish

1. Set sous vide to 185°F. Place all ingredients, except pepitas, in a sous vide bag. Seal tightly and cook until squash is tender, about 60-75 minutes. 2. Transfer contents to a blender and purée until smooth. Taste and season as needed. Garnish with toasted pepitas.

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HEALTHY HOT TAKE

As much as we plan, it often feels like an unexpected surprise in the middle of a busy day (it’s already 4:00pm?!). How many times have you opened your freezer or pantry to find plenty of food, but nothing to make? Over the years, I've come to rely on a few freezer and pantry staples to keep my cooking easier, faster and more enjoyable and spare me that dreaded feeling of needing to run back to the supermarket in order to get a healthy meal on the table. INNER TIME:

FROZEN PRODUCE MYTHS Frozen fruits and vegetables are so underrated and really a game changer on so many levels. They are key, at least for me, in keeping the well in wellness and make healthy cooking easy and attainable. Here’s why: Having already been washed, peeled, cut and ready to go, frozen fruits and vegetables are the ultimate time saver, requiring minimal prep. They last for months in the freezer, allowing you to stock up in just one supermarket trip. 1. Frozen fruits like berries, peaches and mangos are often sweeter than fresh and are easy to use in smoothies, sorbets, pies and crumble desserts. 2. Frozen fruits and vegetables can be more budget friendly than fresh equivalents and reduce waste — how many times have you opened a carton of blueberries just a few days too late and have to toss them? 3. Frozen fruits and vegetables are available all year round, so you don’t have to worry about seasons. 4. More complicated recipes are much more attainable when utilizing frozen fruits and vegetables. Therefore, you are likely to cook that way more often. For example, unlike frozen green greens, fresh green beans may require blanching — an extra step. I use frozen riced broccoli often to make a pizza crust that my family loves and it beats taking out the food processor to start ricing fresh florets. I used to avoid making fruit desserts that required washing, chopping, peeling or pitting of fruit. But frozen fruit is a dream, since all of that is already done.

MYTH #1: One of the most common misconceptions about frozen produce is that it’s not as “healthy” as fresh. In reality, it’s just as nutritious, if not more so. Since fruits and vegetables are flash frozen within hours of harvest at peak ripeness, they actually retain more nutrients than their fresh counterparts with long transport times to supermarkets.

MYTH #2: Another concern is that frozen vegetables will taste frozen and soggy. It may take some experimentation to find which dishes you like to use certain vegetables in and which may not work. 1. You usually can’t go wrong with soups and stir fries or when combined with other ingredients. 2. You can also roast frozen vegetables beautifully with a few tips: • Don’t thaw first, rather roast straight from the freezer. • Toss with oil and desired spices, spread in a single layer without overcrowding the pan. You want the vegetables to roast and get brown, not steam. • Roast at a higher temperature than you might fresh so they get crispy, not soggy. You’ll find that they even cook faster than their fresh counterparts (perk!). To maximize your comfort with frozen produce, be flexible, creative and unafraid to experiment to find your favorite methods and occasions for using them. In the summer months, there’s nothing like farm fresh produce. But in the cooler months, or whenever you’re making soups, stir fries, purées or roasted vegetables, frozen varieties can yield similar and tasty results. In fact, I’ve found that I prefer the consistency of some frozen vegetables to fresh, such as cauliflower rice or Brussels sprouts that roast a little softer and aren’t as dry and bitter since they hold on to some moisture. Frozen artichoke bottoms roast, sauté and air-fry beautifully in a fraction of the time as fresh. You might find that you prefer the consistency of freshly roasted butternut squash for a Shabbos or Yom Tov meal or when having company. But on an average Wednesday night, the next best (and in fact, really delicious) option is to pull out a frozen bag and have a great, easy veggie made in minutes. As much as I enjoy cooking, finding ways to make it smoother, quicker and easier allows me to spend less time in the kitchen and more time doing other things I love as well. I hope you find that too! DECEMBER 2021

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Asian-Style Green Beans

Lemony Garlic Artichoke Bottoms

Serves: 4-6

Serves: 6

Hemp hearts are a great source of plant protein and are excellent on salads, roasted vegetables and stir fries. Add some to smoothies or sprinkle some on top for added texture.

These artichokes are a wonderful anytime side — weeknight or Shabbat — and are enjoyed hot, room temperature or even cold.

E D I TO R'S N OT E : Look for hemp hearts at

Trader Joe's or online from Manitoba Harvest or Bob's Red Mill. Alternatively, use roughly chopped sunflower seeds. 2 2 1 1 ½ 2 1 1 2

tablespoons olive oil shallots, thinly sliced (10-ounce) bag frozen green beans teaspoon pink Himalayan salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided tablespoons coconut aminos teaspoon granulated garlic tablespoon hemp hearts teaspoons nutritional yeast (optional) teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

E D I TO R'S N OT E : See page 16 for our favorite brand recommendation.

1 1 1 1 1 ½

tablespoon non-dairy butter substitute (such as Miyokos or Earth Balance) tablespoon olive oil Juice of 1 lemon tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or 3 cubes frozen parsley clove garlic, minced, or 1 cube frozen garlic (14-ounce) bag frozen artichoke bottoms, defrosted at room temperature for 1½ hours teaspoon pink Himalayan salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Once nearly melted, add lemon juice, parsley and garlic and stir to combine, about 2 minutes. 2. Quarter the artichoke bottoms, then add to the skillet, stirring to coat well in the sauce. Low heat to medium-low and cook, covered, for 10-12 minutes, until just about fork tender. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Increase heat to high and cook, uncovered, for another 2 minutes.

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and sauté for 2-3 minutes, until translucent. 2. Add green beans and season with half the salt and pepper. Sauté, stirring occasionally, for 2-4 minutes, until green beans are vibrant and most of the water has evaporated. 3. Add coconut aminos, garlic and remaining salt and pepper. Sauté, scraping the bottom of the pan, for another 3-4 minutes. 4. Remove from heat and top with hemp hearts, nutritional yeast, if desired, and sesame seeds.

Celeste Hackel has a health coach certification from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition, M.A. in Organizational Psychology from Columbia University and a lifelong passion for health and wellness. Her mission to simplify healthy living, cooking and nutrition inspires her recipes, various products, e-book and contributions to various publications. Follow Celeste on Instagram @healthy.to.the.core for more easy, nutritious recipes and health tips.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

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S SOON AS you step foot into the new location of Mama Kitchen in Queens, NY, you can’t help but be transported into another world. Upbeat IsraeliMoroccan music immediately sets the mood. The walls are tiled with a distinctive geometric Moroccan motif, with wicker-style light fixtures hanging from the ceiling and an assortment of soft velvet pillows adorning the cozy dining booths. An abundance of greenery cascades from open shelving tucked alongside classic Moroccan tea glasses and rows upon rows of intricately-patterned tagines (conicallyshaped Moroccan cooking vessels) imported directly from Casablanca. Large clay bowls and baskets feature produce like lemons, eggplants, tomatoes and chili peppers and heavenly smells waft from the kitchen — making you feel as if you have ambled into a Middle Eastern market where a local might pluck some of today’s freshest vegetables and 86

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turn it into a delicious meal on the spot. The restaurant’s unique design and ambiance is immediately reminiscent of an elevated version of the original Mama Kitchen location, as well as the dairy sisterspot Almah Café (both in Brooklyn), all owned and run by husband-and-wife team Shira and Shai Asias. Born in Hadera, Israel to a Libyan-immigrant family, Shira spent her childhood learning to cook classic North African and Israeli dishes from her mother and grandmother and developed a love for the art and the cuisine. Shira traveled to the US on vacation where she met her husband Shai (also an Israeli native) and settled down in New York. When a friend mentioned that there was a growing demand for high-quality kosher takeout food in Brooklyn offices, Shira jumped at the opportunity. She quit her job and began waking at 5 AM to start cooking, making Moroccan plates and Israeli-style sandwiches to deliver to offices around Brooklyn at lunch time. www.fleishigs.com

Shira and Shai Asias, founders of Mama Kitchen, where Shira serves as head chef.

“The feedback was amazing,” says Shai. “People would literally tell us this was the best pita and chummus they had ever had.” When a brick-and-mortar location became available in 2018, Mama Kitchen was born, expanding into the space next door just months later to provide additional seating space. “I thought people might come for a sandwich and leave,” adds Shira. “But they wanted to come in and sit down, to be part of that environment. And they didn’t just want the sandwiches — they wanted to sit with a plate of Moroccan stew or slow cooked chicken and couscous.” Just two years later in 2020, Shai and Shira opened Almah Café just a few blocks away, where you can order a classic Israeli breakfast spread (the “Jaffa breakfast”) or an evolving assortment of sweet and savory pastries, like potato bourekas stuffed with hard boiled eggs, feta, tomatoes and greens. “As someone who wants to be very involved in every detail of the restaurant, it’s not easy to have more than one location,” says Shira. “That’s why it was so important for

me to spend a year or two primarily at each new location to make sure the staff was trained in every detail, from the food to the customer service. Even if I’m not there all day, I’ll make sure to get dinner from Mama Kitchen to take with me and eat later, so I know exactly what the customers are getting and can make adjustments if needed.” With breakfast and lunch covered, Shai suggested they take the concept one step further with a dinner location near their home in Queens. When asked what inspired them to open a third restaurant, Shira explained, “There are many options in the kosher industry for quick takeout food, as well as high class restaurants where you can splurge for a nice anniversary date. We wanted to create DECEMBER 2021

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

“

with harissa, almonds and somewhere you could go fresh mint for the perfect on a regular weeknight — a combination of classic place with a more affordable Middle Eastern flavors. A menu and a warm, inviting Mediterranean-inspired atmosphere that is lighter and more casual, where you A restaurant tuna ceviche offered a burst of freshness, served can get excellent food with is not just over noni toki, a classic excellent service but feel about a bite Bucharian matzah-like more relaxed.” flatbread that is baked As Mama Kitchen’s new to eat; it is on the back of a wok to Queens location was about about the create a crispy bowlto open its doors to the experience. shaped bread. “Wow, I public, Shira and Shai were could keep eating that excited to host a small group ceviche by the spoonful,” of food friends, including commented kosher travel the team of Fleishigs blogger Dani Klein, while Magazine, to experience the Melinda Strauss nodded new restaurant and menu. in agreement. “Definitely The tables were set with clay dishes in pastel hues, flickering one of the highlights of the night!” she candles and simple pitchers of water added. with fresh nana (mint), just a few of In classic Israeli fashion, Shai poured the many small touches that add up to shots of arak in Moroccan tea glasses create an experience. The menu began and everyone raised a toast and said with warm Jerusalem bagel coated in l’chaim. The main course was brought sesame seeds, which was immediately out in beautiful Moroccan tagines torn into and devoured with dips like (they’re not just for show!), which were tahini, s’chug, skordalia (a traditional opened to reveal melt-in-your-mouth Greek purée made with garlic, oil and braised chicken alongside caramelized nuts) and the most incredibly smooth fennel, spiced chickpeas and couscous. chummus, leaving just confetti-like Another had braised beef with couscous remnants of sesame seeds behind. “This and cabbage salad, yet another had the chummus is just insane,” commented most tender lamb shanks with wheat food blogger Chanie Apfelbaum as she berries. Warm coconut sachlav (a licked the plate clean. “I’ve never had classic Israeli pudding-like delicacy) topped with cinnamon served as the anything like it!” The appetizers were next, somehow perfect simple, sweet note to end the striking the perfect balance between meal. comforting homestyle and an A restaurant is not just about a bite elevated presentation. Cabbage three to eat; it is about the experience — the ways (charred and braised cabbage ambience, the music, the food, the drink over cabbage purée) presented a and most importantly, the people — sophisticated use of the humble which somehow adds up to more than ingredient. The Baharat-spiced ground the sum of its parts. In Mama Kitchen, beef and fennel slaw was served atop Shira and Shai have gifted us with a pillowy Moroccan frenna bread, which small slice of the Moroccan-Israeli was the real star of the dish. Pulled experience that is sure to keep people beef over eggplant cream was topped coming back for more. 88

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Tuna ceviche served over noni toki Moroccan frenna bread with pulled beef and fennel salad

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Chagit Leviev, Dani Klein, Melinda Strauss, Malkie Gordon Hirsch, Jordana Hirschel and Chanie Apfelbaum

Jerusalem bagel with dips

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook. DECEMBER 2021

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IS THE CREATOR behind Dinner: A Love Story, a book, website and newsletter dedicated to bringing families together around the table. Jenny’s brand and what she is most beloved for is her success in simplifying dinners. As an award-winning author of the books Dinner: A Love Story (2012); Dinner: The Playbook (2014); How to Celebrate Everything (2016); and most recently The Weekday Vegetarians, Jenny’s mission is to wrap up the family dinner experience with real strategies, tips and recipes. In The Weekday Vegetarians, Jenny focuses on making vegetableforward, meat-free dinners in a simple way, allowing families to “cut back on meat and not eat cornflakes every night,” as written in the book’s forward. Jenny makes it clear that she still does enjoy meat, but pledged to limit its consumption to weekends only for a plethora of reasons, such as environmental implications and health benefits. This inspired the shift in how she cooks for her family and is reflected in the family-friendly recipes shared in The Weekday Vegetarians, a compilation of her success in accomplishing this somewhat daunting task. The book begins with Seven Rules to Remember When Going Vegetarian and is then divided into four parts, veering from the traditional cookbook setup with chapters. Part One is The New Regulars: Recipes for Everyday Dinners, with pizzas; bowls & salads; soups; pastas & noodles; tacos, tortillas & enchiladas; sandwiches & pies; and skillet mains. Part Two is Small Plates Night: A Liberating Way to Think About Assembling Vegetarian Dinners, where Jenny goes beyond just recipes and focuses on lifestyle tips for making vegetarian dinners fun. Part Three is The Vegetarians' Very Special Bag of Hooks & Tricks (or as Jenny describes as “Recipes that cast a glow of excitement”), a collection of great pantry staples to have on hand, from salad dressings and high-protein bites like crispy chickpeas that elevate almost any meal to breads and pantry staples. The book finishes with part four, Mix-&-Match Meal Chart, which encourages the “use what you have” formula for creating new and exciting dinner. The book offers a combination of vegan and vegetarian recipes and is the perfect addition to anyone’s collection, particularly those who lean towards a more vegetarian diet. Aside from the book being a pleasure to read with colorful, attractive photos and a fun design, Jenny’s success with the process offers inspiration for anyone contemplating eating less meat.

The Weekday Vegetarians: 100 recipes and a real-life plan for eating less meat Author: Jenny Rosentrach Publisher: Penguin Random House Photographer: Christine Han

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E D I TO R'S N OT E : See page 112 for non-dairy options.

Tagliatelle with Corn, Tomatoes, “Onion-Bacon” & Basil

Serves 4

1 4 16 3 4

Kosher salt to taste medium red onion, sliced tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ounces tagliatelle or spaghetti tablespoons unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, minced Freshly ground black pepper to taste Pinch of dried red pepper flakes cups corn kernels (from about 4 medium ears)

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to 3½ cups roughly chopped ripe tomatoes (from about 3 medium tomatoes) and their juices cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces) fresh basil leaves, chopped

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a separate large pot or Dutch oven set over medium-low heat, combine the onion and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and stir every few minutes. 2. Cook the tagliatelle in the boiling water according to the package directions. When the pasta is just about done, reserve 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and toss it right in the strainer with the

remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to prevent sticking. 3. Add the butter to the red onion, which should be caramelly and slightly shriveled by this point, along with the garlic, salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook for another minute. 4. Add the corn and tomatoes and cook until the vegetables release a lot of liquid, another 4 to 5 minutes. It should look like a bright, chunky sauce. 5. Add the pasta and Parmesan to the vegetables, tossing to distribute and coat the pasta with the sauce. Add a drizzle of pasta water as needed to help the cheese distribute evenly. Top with basil and serve. www.fleishigs.com

WHEAT BERRIES WITH CRISPY TOFU, GRAPES, ARUGULA & FETA Serves 4

Twice a week I brave the hour-and-a-half commute from the suburbs of New York to Brooklyn to work at Cup of Jo, the lifestyle website run by enthusiast extraordinaire Joanna Goddard. I look forward to these days for the camaraderie and creative collaboration, etc., etc., but also because her office is in Boerum Hill, with access to the kind of coffee and take-out food that just doesn’t exist where I live. Even the chains are better: When plantbased Honeygrow (a Northeast DIY salad chain) opened up a few blocks away, I became obsessed with a magical combination of firm-but tender wheat berries, sweet grapes, salty feta, and spicy nuts. I ate the salad so often my office mates started ordering it, too, calling it “The Jenny Salad.” I talked about it so much that I ended up creating a—dare I say— even better version for my family back in the burbs. I always make extra so I have leftovers for lunch. H O N E Y- G I N G E R V I N A I G R E T T E

1 ¼ ¼

⅓ 1 1

3 2 1 3 1 1 1

tablespoon honey cup white balsamic vinegar teaspoon ground ginger, or 1 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste cup extra-virgin olive oil cup uncooked wheat berries Kosher salt (14-to 15-ounce) block extra-firm tofu, pressed, drained, and cut into ½-inch cubes tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon cornstarch cups arugula cup crumbled feta cup halved red seedless grapes medium carrot, shaved into ribbons with a vegetable peeler bunch scallions, white and light green parts only, minced (about ⅔ cup) cup whole shelled pistachios (I often throw in store-bought cayenne-spiked pistachios; look for the Wonderful brand)

E D I TO R'S N OT E : Trader Joe's recently came out with a vegan feta, which is certified kosher under OU. It's a great alternative option for a pareve or meat meal. See page 112 for more tips.

M A K E T H E D R E SS I N G :

1. In a small jar or measuring cup, combine the honey, vinegar, ginger, salt, and pepper. (N OT E : If you don’t have white balsamic, use white wine vinegar with a splash of regular balsamic. But don’t fully swap in regular balsamic, which will be too overwhelming.) Cover the jar and shake vigorously to combine, or whisk the ingredients together thoroughly in the bowl. Add the olive oil and shake (or whisk) again until it is creamy and emulsified. Set aside until ready to use. Keeps in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. 2. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 3. Add the wheat berries to a medium pot, covering them with water by 2 inches. Add

some salt and simmer, stirring every 6 to 8 minutes, until the grains are tender, not tough. The cook time varies and can take up to 1 hour for the grains to become tender; I always start checking after 30 minutes. Drain the wheat berries in a colander and rinse under cold water, then drain again. Transfer them to a large bowl. 4. While the wheat berries are cooking, toss the tofu with the olive oil, soy sauce, and cornstarch. Place the tofu on the prepared sheet pan and bake until golden and crispy around the edges, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. 5. Add the cooled tofu to the wheat berries, then toss in the arugula, feta, grapes, carrots, scallions, pistachios, and vinaigrette and serve. DECEMBER 2021

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK CELLER DE CAPÇANES, BY YAEL E. GELLER, MPH

SOMETIMES , Israeli and French wines are at center stage in the kosher wine world and leave no room for other players. However, there are other regions in Europe, specifically Italy and Spain, that boast burgeoning markets of robust, delicious kosher wines. This time, our journey takes us a few miles north of the Clos Mesorah Estate to the Capçanes winery located in the province of Tarragona in northeastern Spain, part of the Priorat municipality. This region is exceptionally antiquated and established as one of the best terroirs in the world. The Celler de Capçanes cooperative winery was founded by the local families of Capçanes, the name of the town, in 1933. The size of the village is relatively small, with almost 400 residents. In the 1990s, the winery was struggling to survive, so roughly 80 members of the community pitched in and tried to invest their best efforts to boost their local economy in this heavily Catholic region, but it was not enough. Finally, in 1995 the winery was approached by the Jewish community of Barcelona, which is located about 160 kilometers south, headed by Rabbi Cohen, who had a complex but straightforward request. He asked that they make kosher wine for the community, which was growing and had no access to quality kosher wines; in turn, he would invest in the winery. Ultimately, this marriage was a success and the winery thrived from this investment in a niche market. Today, roughly 10% of their production of wines is kosher. From time to time, we get to catch up in the States with Jurgen Wagner, marketing and sales director and associate winemaker. However, several years ago, my family and I had the pleasure of meeting him at the winery to see this fantastic estate from the inside. Celler de Capçanes is located in the namesake village of Capçanes. The smell of fermentation wafts through the hallways of the gift shop through the barreling area, which resembles an underground crypt or cave. The kosher production is strictly locked up behind bars (yes, literally) and closed with special tape by the mashgichim after they leave. The barrels are never seen or touched by a gentile due to the strict nature of the authorizing kosher agency. Once we finished a short tasting in the conference room, we went to see the vines. We offered to follow Jurgen in our little rental car, but he explained that a truck was needed to get up there safely. We grabbed our toddler and his car seat and, per Jurgen's detailed instructions, secured him in the backseat of the 4x4 and headed up the mountain. To be honest, I love Jurgen and fully trust his wine knowledge, but I did not realize we would be driving up a cliff on a dirt road! I closed my eyes most of the time and held my little boy's hand, wondering if he was the first 16-month-old to head up the mountains of Priorat on an

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exclusive tour of 110-year-old Garnacha vines. The fear and trip were well worth the views we got from the top! The clay and limestone soil is visible from under your feet. At the edge, the first few rows of vines were full of fall colors, but the layers of vines get progressively thicker. The scenery is filled with luscious green leaves, letting you know that the terroir and elevation significantly affect the seasonal changes we expect in different climates. Intertwined with the vines are various other vegetation, including wild herbs, almond trees and cherry trees. Biodiversity is super important when you are creating organic wines from the soil. Diversity keeps the land, vegetation and fruit production stable and healthy. Jurgen personally owns several of the vineyards, which shows his dedication and investment in the area. The current head winemaker, Anna Rovira, studied winemaking in Dijon, which is located in Burgundy. Jurgen, a native of Germany, studied winemaking at the Geisenheim University's Grape Breeding Institute, along with some foreign exchange internships in Italy and Spain. Both Jurgen and Anna work cooperatively, blending their unique training and experiences into one freeflowing philosophy. The most important thing for both of them is to respect and “listen” to what the vines offer. What I like the most is knowing how the variety actually is and trying to enhance its best traits, doing only as much as necessary — giving time, being patient and working clean and conscientiously. This philosophy works beautifully with kosher wine production. Anna comments that she has never seen wine with less human intervention than kosher wine. Jurgen has been working with the rabbis from Barcelona for over 25 years and has become accustomed to the laws of kashrut. His first exposure to kosher wine was in 1996, reading about the kosher wines of Capçanes. “As I never had a kosher wine in my life before, it awoke my curiosity. I visited Capçanes for the very first time because of the kosher Peraj Ha'abib. Two years later, they made me a job offer – and I am still living and working for this gorgeous place.” Capçanes is 96

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one of the pioneers in Montsant in organic grape growing. All 40 hectares at Capçanes have been organic certified since 2006. Thanks to low humidity and light rainfalls during summer, they can use less natural pesticides and fertilizer. Slowly, as the older farmers retire, the cooperative of the village is taking over, working their land. All these “new” vineyards use organic farming. The kosher wines of Capçanes are certainly among our most unique offerings with three main labels. The La Flor del Flor Primavera series is easily distinguished by its beautiful purple label and includes two wines – the Garnacha and the Samso, which is Spanish for Carignan. Both are delicious, top-tier wines and can be aged for many, many years. Next is the more famous series, Peraj Ha’abib, or spring flower, which has two wines – the original wine is a blend of several varieties, mainly Garnacha and a newer wine composed of Pinot Noir grapes, which was introduced in 2015. All of these wines are a beautiful expression of the vineyards belonging to Capçanes. Finally, there is the Peraj Petita, or little flower, series, which includes two

wines annually and is a budget-friendly pick not meant for a very long aging period (although we have seen some vintages of the red Petita in the last 7-8 years). The Petita red is usually made in both a mevushal and non-mevushal version, making it an excellent choice for celebrations. Petita red is made from a blend of grapes, while the Peraj Petita Rosado blend, the rosé, can vary; this year, it was created as a blend from mostly Garnacha grapes. Next time you’re in the wine shop or gathering with a group of friends, go out of your comfort zone and try a wine from Spain. Put down the Israeli or French bottle and imagine you’re reeling the vineyards in the mountains of Spain with Jurgen with an open mind and an open palate. The Capçanes wines never disappoint and they come in at almost every price tier. I’ll drink to that! L’chaim! Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com.

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BREAKING BREAD

PICKChallah UP THE PIECES. Crumbs BY: MANDY SILVERMAN L E F TOV E R C H A L L A H I S a rare occurrence, but if the stars align and you do end up with some leftover challah, don’t you dare feed that golden goodness to the birds! (I’m looking at you, Shlomo!) Those leftovers can elevate so many of your weeknight dinners with a nod to Shabbos. Breadcrumbs are simple to prepare, can be made out of any amount of leftover challah and can be frozen for up to one month. Best of all, since challah is the superior form of bread, it certainly will create superior tasting breadcrumbs! Use challah breadcrumbs wherever a recipe calls for traditional or panko breadcrumbs. They make a fabulous topping for casseroles, quiches and gratins or a binding agent in meatballs or turkey burgers. My personal favorite is to use them as breading for fried food, such as schnitzel and breaded cauliflower or zucchini (recipe follows) — the sky’s the limit.

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work as well. Olive oil burns fairly quickly, so I always recommend against using it for frying. •

HOT HOT HOT: This is the most important part of frying. Heat oil over medium heat and make sure the oil is heated (but not too hot!) before adding anything. If the oil isn’t hot enough, you risk the coating becoming soggy or worse — falling off entirely! Check the temperature by inserting the end of a wooden spoon into the oil; if bubbles form around, the oil is ready. You can also sprinkle a bit of water into the oil to see if it sizzles, but be careful with this approach as the oil may splatter. The safest and most accurate option is to use a thermometer to check if the oil is at the recommended temperature for the recipe you are making.

•

S PAC E O U T: Be sure not to overcrowd the pan. If items are too crowded, the coating may come off. Plus, the food will fry unevenly.

•

BE GENTLE: Only flip the food once. The more you flip, the more likely the coating is to come off.

•

KEEP COOL: Drain fried foods on a paper towel, preferably over a cooling rack. This allows the excess oil to absorb into the paper towel and not back into food.

THREE STEPS ARE BETTER THAN ONE:

Using a 3-step process to coat your item will also contribute to a more successful result: 1. Coat entirely in flour 2. Coat entirely in beaten egg 3. Press gently into challah crumbs, then shake off any excess.

•

FLAVORFUL FLOUR: Be sure to season the flour portion of the dredge. For a basic savory seasoning blend, I recommend a mixture of seasoned salt and garlic powder; for sweet, a little cinnamon goes a long way!

•

THE NOSE KNOWS: Don’t know the amount of seasoning to add to your flour? Smell it! If you can smell the seasoning, you have added enough.

•

Adding a few tablespoons of cornstarch to the flour mixture will enhance the crispiness.

•

DRY BEFORE YOU FRY: Always be sure to thoroughly dry any item you are about to fry. From chicken to zucchini, taking the time to pat your food dry with a paper towel before you begin coating will make a tremendous difference in the coating’s ability to stick.

C O R N STA R C H :

OIL MATTERS: While avocado oil and peanut oil are popular deep-frying options, canola and vegetable oils

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BREAKING BREAD

Challah Breadcrumbs Preheat oven to 300°F. Toast leftover sliced challah on a parchment-lined or greased baking sheet. Bake for at least 20 minutes, flipping halfway through. Let cool completely. Using a food processor or blender, pulse to desired crumb size. Do not overprocess. For extra crunchy breadcrumbs, return to the same baking sheet and bake at 350°F for an additional 5-10 minutes, stirring halfway through. Store breadcrumbs in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 1 month.

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Breaded Zucchini “Schnitzel” Serves: 4

Oil, for frying large zucchinis, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch strips 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 eggs 2 cups challah breadcrumbs (recipe above) or panko breadcrumbs Kosher salt, for sprinkling Hot sauce or Roasted Garlic Caesar (page 76), for serving 1. Heat 2 inches of oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. 2. Pat zucchini dry with paper towels. Create a dredging station: Dip in flour, then egg and finally in breadcrumbs. 3. Working in batches, fry zucchini for 4 minutes on one side and 2-3 minutes on the other. 4. Transfer to a wire rack set over paper towels and immediately season with salt. Serve with hot sauce and Caesar dressing.

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TRAVEL

LOW KEY AMAZING BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

IAMI BEACH HAS become the hot spot destination for kosher travelers looking for sunny weather with the conveniences of synagogues and restaurants. The drawback to its popularity is that it does in fact get quite crowded; for those looking to truly get away, the large crowds can tend to feel overwhelming, from long wait times at dining establishments to crowded beaches. On a recent trip to Miami for my niece’s Bat Mitzvah, I had less than 24 hours of extra time and decided to embark on a journey in search of a more discreet, relaxed vacation hub and I found just that in Key Largo — the perfect escape within driving distance to kosher food. Key Largo is an hour and a half drive from Miami International Airport and is part of a 125-mile stretch

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of islands known as the Florida Keys. Key West, the southernmost point of the United States just 90 miles from Cuba, is the most well known of the Keys, but is a much further drive from Miami, which can be quite a distance, especially for those traveling with families. Key Largo, however, is much closer to Miami, offering a real escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. In fact, upon leaving Key Largo, there is a sign that says “Leaving the Florida Keys back to reality.” There is a sense of escape that you immediately feel as you drive the scenic route from Miami into the Keys. Key Largo is really an ideal spot if you are looking for a Caribbean-style vacation experience and love water sports and activities, but don't want the hassle of flying too far or dealing with international travel. www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

WHERE TO STAY: I stayed at the Baker's Cay Resort Key Largo, Curio Collection by Hilton for the clean, modern aesthetic and all-inclusive resort perks. This waterfront hotel has a luxe Caribbean vibe with most rooms overlooking the water. With access to two different beaches from the hotel, I didn’t even have to leave the property. I recommend finding a spot at Hammock Beach, which has lots of private beachfront space. The water at Key Largo is uniquely calm and warm — a result of facing the waters of Florida Bay contrast to the beaches I am used to visiting in Miami. The hotel faces the waters of Florida Bay. The other side of the Keys faces the Atlantic and those waters are similar to the beaches in Miami Beach. Beach chairs, towels, tubes and other floating devices are available at the beach as well as kayaks, paddle boards and fishing rods. You can also book jet skis in advance that are available directly on the hotel property. The hotel has a game room, large green spaces for kids to play as well as bikes that are available for use — there is an easy bike path along Route 1 right outside the hotel. Even more unique are the floating tiki bars that go out at sunset. The full bar plays music and offers a wide range of drinks and floats along the bay, which is a fun experience. Another nearby hotel that also comes highly recommended as the perfect hotel for couples looking to splurge is the adultsonly Bungalows Key Largo, which has an exclusive, tranquil and private feel. Book a garden bungalow for a water view, with a private outdoor tub, shower and garden. Similar to the Baker’s Cay resort, the Bungalows Key Largo faces the Florida Bay and offers an array of water activities. The hotel concierge can also book any other outdoor activities for you. DECEMBER 2021

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WHAT TO DO: KAYAKING

Beyond lounging on the beach, Key Largo is the diving capital of the United States and has a multitude of water activities. Even if you just come for the day and don't stay overnight, there are many water activities you can do that are unique to this area. While basic water sports, such as jet skiing and kayaking, are available through most hotels, they are also available with individual vendors throughout Key Largo. Florida Bay Outfitters has a mangrove kayak tour through the crystal clear waters of Key Largo and teaches about mangroves that frequent the area and their importance to the ecosystem. This is a great option for beginners or intermediate paddlers. FISHING

Book a charter boat and go deep sea fishing or inshore fishing to fish for gorgeous and sizable grouper, snapper, hogfish, cobia, barracuda, king mackerel and shark and view shipwrecks, artificial reefs and patch reefs. Key Largo Fishing Adventures is ideal for passionate fishermen. Tours start at $700 and take a whole day. SWIM WITH DOLPHINS

Swimming with dolphins at Dolphins Plus Marine Mammal Responder is a true experience. There are various options — the most popular is the flagship, personalized swim experience tailored to each guest. Following an educational briefing, you meet up with a private trainer to plan a custom session, where you can choose a slowerpaced program, a high energy one or a combination. No matter what program you pick, you will swim with dolphins, feel their heartbeat, listen to their vocalizations and hug them, making it an unforgettable and unique experience. DIVING

Key Largo boasts the third largest reef system in the world; its waters are protected and therefore has become a world famous diving destination. Rainbow Reef has a wide variety of 104

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scuba diving options (starting at $85) that include tanks, weights, bottled water and a dive guide. If you want to explore the famous reefs, but don’t want to dive, snorkeling is a great alternative and Sundivers Tours has many options available. There are over a dozen different reefs that the tour includes and the average water depth is 6-8 feet, making it very family friendly and great for beginners. A glass-bottom boat tour is another fun family-friendly activity. Key Largo Princess has daytime or sunset tours to view the exciting and beautiful underwater world of the

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and the Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary. SEAPLANE ISLAND HOPPING

The higher-end hotels offer this service, so you can book it through your hotel concierge for a once-in-a-lifetime splurge. Keys Seaplanes offers custom island hopping day trips. The tours for two start at about $3600 and include an itinerary that is customized to your needs with various excursions, such as swimming with dolphins, snorkeling and simply enjoying the aerial views of The Keys. www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

is always a good sign. We ordered the baby chicken platter and shawarma platter and requested that the salads and sauces all be packaged in separate containers, which kept everything fresh. We opted for choices that would taste good eaten at room temperature.

WHERE TO EAT: There are no kosher establishments in Key Largo, but there are quite a few on the way from Miami or Ft. Lauderdale to Key Largo. Depending on your plan, purchase the food you need before heading to Key Largo for the amount of time you will be staying at Key Largo. We made a few stops on the way to Key Largo to stock up on some essentials as we didn’t plan to leave Key Largo once there. You can also rely on going out for dinner in Miami (many restaurants are open till 2 a.m.) if you don’t mind the one and half hour drive each way. We decided to pre-order kosher food that we knew would travel well. Since we would only be gone for 24 hours, without any kitchen (aside from the hotel fridge that we stored everything in), we relied on some strategic planning to bring along food that would still make it feel like a vacation. 1. We stopped at Pita Plus in Fort Lauderdale, a short 12-minute drive from Fort Lauderdale International airport and a very popular spot among locals, which

2. Café Noir, a wonderful dairy restaurant, is in the same Fort Lauderdale area and we stopped there for a quick coffee and super affordable Israelistyle breakfast. We also ordered a few things togo with lunches in mind, including the crispy sweet potato salad (dressing on the side), kale salad (egg and dressing on the side), smoked noir sandwich and caprese sandwich. Everything we ordered was still delicious when we ate it the next day for lunch. 3.

There are also a few Starbucks locations in Key Largo, as well as two large supermarkets — Publix and Winn Dixie. You can definitely find enough basics to eat for breakfast including instant oatmeal, fruit, coffee and bread. DECEMBER 2021

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SOMETHING SWEET

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SOMETHING SWEET

Triple Chocolate Cereal Cookies Yield: 20 cookies

These cookies are for the ultimate chocolate lover! Chewy chocolate cookies studded with chocolate chips and chocolate cereal are the perfect decadent treat for that chocolate craving.

WHILE I AM an avid baker, I’m admittedly

not much of a cook, which means I often offer cereal to my kids for dinner (they’re fine, don’t worry!). I decided to combine my love of baking and my goto dinner with these spectacular cereal cookies! The cereal adds the perfect crunchy texture to a classic chewy cookie for a surprising bite. 108

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⅓ cup oil ½ cup sugar ¼ cup brown sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup all-purpose flour ⅓ cup cocoa powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup chocolate chips 1 cup chocolate puff cereal (or similar chocolate cereal)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat oil, sugar and brown sugar until combined. Add egg and vanilla and beat for 3 minutes. 2. Add flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt and beat until just incorporated. Gently fold in chocolate chips and cereal. 3. Scoop cookies onto parchment-lined baking sheets using a medium-sized cookie scoop. Bake for 9-10 minutes, then let cool on the baking sheet for about 10 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Corn Flakes & “Milk” Cookies Yield: 20 cookies

Personally, Corn Flakes is one of the most iconic cereals out there, so when I was dreaming up ideas for cereal cookies, I knew I wanted to incorporate it. The clusters add so much, but they’re addictive on their own as well and can be used as a dessert topper for fruit or ice cream. The white chocolate drizzle is reminiscent of the “milk” factor and adds an extra level of visual pizazz. Don’t skip the pretzels — they add the perfect balance to the otherwise sweet cookie. N OT E : Feel free to drizzle additional cookie

butter over the cookies instead of white chocolate, just loosen in the microwave before drizzling. Take it over the top with another sprinkle of Maldon salt or more crushed pretzels.

FO R T H E C E R E A L C LU ST E RS :

½ 2 1

cup cookie butter (such as kosher Lotus) cups Corn Flakes teaspoon Maldon salt

FO R T H E C O O K I E S :

6 ½ ½ 1 ½ 1½ ½ ¼ ½ ½ ¼

tablespoons oil cup sugar cup brown sugar large egg teaspoon pure vanilla extract cups all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt cup mini salted pretzels cup sea salt caramel chips (such as DeeBest, optional) cup white chocolate chips (optional)

1. For the cereal clusters, add cookie butter to a microwave-safe bowl and melt for 30 seconds. Add Corn Flakes and mix until cereal is completely coated. Spread onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, sprinkle with Maldon salt and refrigerate for 30-40 minutes until set. Break into small clusters. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. For the cookies, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat oil, sugar, brown sugar, egg and vanilla until combined. 3. Add flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and beat until just incorporated. Gently fold in two-thirds of the cereal clusters, reserving the rest to top cookies before baking. 4. Scoop cookies onto parchment-lined baking sheets using a medium-sized cookie scoop. Press remaining cereal clusters, pretzels and caramel chips, if using, into the cookies. Bake for 9-10 minutes, then let cool on the baking sheet for about 20 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack. 5. Once cookies are completely cooled, add white chocolate chips to a small piping bag or Ziploc bag. Place the bag in a cup of very hot water for a few minutes to melt the chocolate. Once melted, cut the corner off the bag to form a small hole and drizzle the white chocolate over the cookies.

Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes for busy parents who enjoy baking but may not have the time. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a food photographer and food stylist for various brands, with a focus on video content. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_lilyrose or on her website lilyrosebakersblog.com.

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CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 39 Spiced Tahini M Q 62 Whole Roasted Garlic M 62 Rice 62 Soy Vinaigrette Q 76 Roasted Garlic Caesar FF Q 76 Garlic Confit M Q 76 Garlic Breadcrumbs Q 99 Challah Breadcrumbs M Q

VEGETARIAN 62 62 62 71 78 82 82 92 93 100

Garlicky Broccolini M Q Bok Choy Salad Thai Peanut Crusted Salmon Q One Pot Lemony Broccolini Fusilli FF Q Sous Vide Cabbage M Asian-Style Green Beans Q Lemony Garlic Artichoke Bottoms Q Tagliatelle with Corn, Tomatoes, “Onion-Bacon” & Basil Wheat Berries With Crispy Tofu, Grapes, Arugula & Feta Breaded Zucchini “Schnitzel” M Q

SOUPS 51 53 54 78

Carrot and Lentil Soup with Collard Greens Roasted Tomato Basil Soup with Crispy Rice FF Pea Soup with Fluffy Drop Dumplings FF Sous Vide Butternut Squash Soup FF

CHICKEN 27 28 31 33 34 36 39 44 47 62 74

Poached Chicken FF M Q Poached Chicken and Soba Noodle Salad with Peanut Dressing Sabich Chicken Salad with Tahini Amba Dressing The Ultimate Roasted Chicken Breast FF M Bran-Crusted Oven-Baked Schnitzel FF Q Spiced Chicken Meatballs & Rice with Dill & Roasted Tomatoes FF Herbed Chicken Meatballs with Caramelized Vegetables Sumac Roasted Chicken and Sweet Potatoes FF M Mediterranean Chopped Salad with Sumac Vinaigrette Sticky Korean BBQ Chicken FF Sous Vide Chicken Breast FF M

MEAT 18 23 23 23 23 62 74

The Perfect Taco FF All-Purpose Meat Sauce FF Meat Lasagna FF Meat Nachos Eggplant with Meat Sauce Mexican Meatball Soup FF Sous Vide Brick Roast

SWEET TREATS 49 Sumac and Sesame Cookies 108 Triple Chocolate Cereal Cookies FF 110 Corn Flakes & “Milk” Cookies FF

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

FOR A NON-DAIRY ALTERNATIVE to the cheese used in the One Pot Lemony Broccolini Fusilli (page 71), Wheat Berries with Crispy Tofu, Grapes, Arugula & Feta (page 93) and Tagliatelle with Corn, Tomatoes, “Onion-Bacon” & Basil (page 92), check out Elisheva Taitz's Vegan Parmesan recipe in the Fleishigs app (from April 2021 / issue #26). Alternatively, (carefully!) grating macadamia nuts with a Microplane fine zester delivers a delicious flavor similar to Parmesan.

LAST BITE

Cooking a spice-rubbed brick roast in a sous vide is a foolproof way of preparing this popular cut of meat. It can easily feed a crowd and can be served hot or at room temperature, making it the perfect menu item for Shabbat lunch. For the recipe and instructions, turn to page 74.

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