Fleishigs Magazine Issue 033 - January 2022 by Fleishigs Magazine

USA $6.99 CAN $9.99 / UK £6 SA R90 / ISR 25₪

The Green Gold of Puglia

talian olives have ancient roots in Puglia, a region known for its ideal subtropical climate. Woven into the groves are the traditions of a thousand generations. Discerning coltivatore select only the finest, ripest olives. Once combed from the trees, the day’s yield goes directly to the mills, where they’re processed the traditional way using granite wheels to press them whole. In every drop of this green gold you can taste the passion of the craft and the fealty to tradition.

Taste Tuscanini. Know Italy.

WATCH THIS SCENE COME TO LIFE

BUTCHER'S CUT

Lamb Ribs

EDITOR’S LETTER

FOOD FOR GOOD Sage Kitchen and Me for We

12 ESSENTIALS Restaurant edition 34 TRAVEL Food crawl — a new way to eat out 36 SEASONAL Bringing the restaurant home 52

66 TRENDS

Restaurant quality at your doorstep

ISRAEL ROW Recipes inspired by some of Miami’s best Israeli spots

60 BREAKING BREAD Bread from the Middle East 88 L’CHAIM Herzog house wines 90 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Sen Sakana — NYC’s only kosher Nikkei experience plus some more unique kosher experiences 99 NEW KOSHER New innovative kosher restaurants across the globe

SUPERMARKET EATS Restaurants with supermarket origins

100 HOW TO ORDER Maximizing the restaurant experience 103 RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022 140 COOKBOOK Thali: A Joyful Celebration of Indian Home Cooking by Maunika Gowardhan 145 INTERNATIONAL KOSHER Best international kosher restaurants 146 INTERVIEW Lee Schrager 150 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Freixenet — the Cava experts of Spain

154 SOMETHING SWEET

Desser spring rolls

159 UNIQUE KOSHER Kosher restaurants that are pushing boundaries 160 RECIPE INDEX 162 LAST BITE Condiments for days

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

EDITOR'S LETTER

Check out what we’ve been checking out. ONE OF MY earliest restaurant memories is waiting in line with a group of friends on a Sunday afternoon at the original Dougie’s on W. 72nd Street in New York City. After working up an appetite shopping at Gap (peak 90s when Gap was the place to shop), we put our names down at Dougie’s and waited in the freezing cold for a table at the hottest restaurant in town. Back then, there was always a line at Dougie’s. It was such a vibe sitting in the crowded restaurant, coloring on the paper tablecloths, filling up on their signature salsa and chips and sharing a huge platter of their famous sweet and spicy wings. Dougie’s brought new flavors to kosher — buffalo wings, racks of ribs, amazing spicy fries and the unbelievable blooming onion. It had everything going for it and exemplified why going out to eat was so much more than eating. We go to restaurants to eat the food we can’t easily make at home. We go out to celebrate occasions with family and friends. We go out to have a good time. We go out to draw inspiration. Restaurants offer so much more than just good food and we are very grateful to all the chefs and restaurant owners, entrepreneurs and waitstaff that keep these insitutitions going. While a pandemic was raging, restaurants trekked on; as I was planning this issue and reflecting on this past year, I was surprised at the growth 2021 brought to the kosher restaurant industry. While there are still a few more kosher restaurant concepts we’d love to see (like Indian food; or chefdriven restaurants similar to Moshe Wendel’s former Brooklyn restaurant Pardes), so many new restaurants had the guts to open this year, against all odds. We held a live article (page 90) at 8

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one such new restaurant, Sen Sakana, which is dedicated to bringing Nikkei cuisine to the kosher market. We cover all of that and more in the pages before you. Recognizing that many don’t have the ability to enjoy a diverse kosher restaurant scene in their hometown (or that many are still not comfortable with dining out), we share two full restaurant-style meals that you can make at home (page 36). We noticed many new, interesting trends blossoming at restaurants (see page 66), such as the expansion of online ordering, chain restaurants and the evolution of dessert menus. Beyond these trends, we also share how to pull off a successful food crawl as a new way of going out to eat (page 34), advice on how to order (page 100) and loads of delicious new recipes inspired by our favorite dining experiences this year. The issue is overflowing with inspiration. After making it through another year of the pandemic, restaurants have become a commodity I value more than ever. I want to use this space as a way of saying “thank you” to those who work tirelessly to afford us the opportunity to dine at dynamic spaces with family and friends. May we all always have reasons to celebrate! Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Claudia Hopkins CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Hello, Goodbye. I'm back. Yes, I'm back. Well, I'm back. Yes, I'm back from watching all 8 hours of The Beatles: Get Back in about two sittings. Yes, I'm still waiting for some of those tenacious Dm's (@naftolimann on insta). It's hard to believe that there's nobody out there, it's hard to believe that I'm all alone. Winter, spring, summer or fall, all you have to do is call and I'll be there, yes, I will. Thank you to Sir Charles Zelmanowitz® for initiating my fundraising drive for The Jake™. This issue was designed to the prodigious and at times raucous sounds of Get Back™, Pat Benatar, Sugar Ray and Nancy Sinatra.

Restaurants and their chefs play a big role in Fleishigs. Each issue features a different restaurant, their recipes and stories. Email us hello@fleishigs.com for a story suggestion, idea or general feedback. We love hearing from you!

Visual Stimuli: The Beatles: Get Back.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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Food for Good

Food for Good is a monthly column highlighting people, brands and food businesses that are committed to repairing the world through their generous actions. We hope their stories are illuminating and inspiring.

BY: LIZ RUEVEN

HOLOCAUST SURVIVOR MEAL PROGRAM AND ADI HEYMAN AT ME FOR WE DESCRIPTION: The Holocaust Survivor Meal Program was initiated in the early weeks of the COVID-19 pandemic to provide support for food-insecure seniors. When the pandemic shuttered NYC restaurants, Chef Jasmine (“Jazzie”) Einalhori, co-owner of Sage Kitchen, pivoted almost immediately and began cooking meals for essential workers. Adi reached out and Chef Jazzie agreed to prepare meals for 20 isolated Holocaust survivors. As the numbers increased, she partnered with Adi Heyman, founder of Me for We, to schedule, coordinate and help fund ongoing Shabbat and holiday meals. THE STORY: When Adi Heyman recovered from COVID-19 in March 2020, she was inspired to find meaningful ways to impact both local and global communities. Tapping into her journalism and fashion backgrounds helped her to connect with individual funders and volunteers in order to launch Me For We. With over 65,000

followers on her personal Instagram page and that of the Jewish Fashion Council combined, she was perfectly positioned to inspire others with her “stronger together” attitude. An ongoing group of partners, volunteers and sponsors has enabled the Holocaust Survivor Meal Program to grow from dropping off 20 weekly meals to delivering 60-80 Shabbat food packages in the New York area. They have since expanded, adding new catering resources, such as Alenbi Kitchen in Brooklyn. Sage Kitchen remains committed to providing Shabbat meals for the Holocaust Survivor Meal Program. A typical meal delivery can look like: Sesame honey challah, slow simmered chicken soup or farmers’ market vegetable soup, oven-roasted chicken, roasted seasonal veggies, mashed potatoes and babka, sponge cake or cookies. Fresh fruit is always provided.

HOW TO HELP: Consider sponsoring a weekly meal at $36.00 per individual, per Shabbat. Celebrating an occasion? Think about a donation that reflects a larger number. How about a number that memorializes a special year? You can also donate meals in honor of each guest at a wedding or other simcha. VOLUNTEER: Volunteer to deliver meals in Manhattan or Brooklyn. It takes at least 20 volunteers each week to keep this program running. PARTNER Offer your services in partnership. Past donations have included flower deliveries, coordinating handmade cards with youth programs and adding gift items to packages. To explore these opportunities, email info@meforwe.org

EDITOR’S NOTE:

We highlighted Sage Kitchen in issue #17. Check out Chef Jasmine’s featured recipes in the Fleishigs app.

Liz Rueven has been writing about the intersection of seasonal recipes, local foodways and Jewish lifestyle since 2011. She’s passionate about supporting small farmers, food creatives and tending to her vegetable garden and grandkids. Follow Liz on instagram @kosherlikeme and on her blog kosherlikeme.com. 10

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ESSENTIALS THIS MONTH, WE ASKED SOME RESTAURANT CHEFS TO SHARE THEIR FAVORITE KITCHEN ESSENTIALS.

BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ

THERMOMIX Although pricey, this smart machine replaces many appliances (slow cooker, sous vide, rice cooker, kettle, etc.) with its multitude of uses. I use it to achieve textures of French cuisine. — Chef Avi Azuley (NuNuNu: Sunny Isles, FL)

thermomix.com | $1,499

OXO CHERRY PITTER This device is life changing when working with cherries, either in sweet or savory applications — it makes it so easy, quick and fun to pit them. — Chef Seth Warsaw (ETC Steakhouse: Teaneck, NJ)

bedbathandbeyond.com | $12.99

KUNZ SPOON My favorite tool in the kitchen is this multi-purpose spoon that chefs obsess over. It’s made from heavy-duty stainless steel with a comfortable handle that makes saucing plates a breeze. — Chef Joey Paulino (Wall Street Grill: NYC)

amazon.com | $24

ELECTRIC SESAME SEED GRINDER Sen Sakana’s signature cucumber dish, served with crispy quinoa, aji amarillo and sesame oil, is garnished with toasted sesame seeds that are freshly ground using this handy, inexpensive gadget. It makes all the difference on this deceptively simple appetizer. — Chef Mina Newman (Sen Sakana: NYC)

amazon.com | $12.99

BRIX REFRACTOMETER Degrees Brix (°Bx) refers to the sugar content in an aqueous solution, which can be measured with a refractometer. It can be used in wine and beer making and when working with fruit — it allows you to measure the sugar content to determine how much to add. — Chef Isaac Bernstein (Gruit: Brooklyn, NY)

amazon.com | $18

WARING STICK BLENDER This super powerful stick blender makes aioli and homemade mayonnaise quickly and efficiently. It’s a workhorse and contains the mess, so there is minimal clean up needed. — Chef Gabe Garcia (Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars: Oxnard, CA)

amazon.com | $95

PACOJET Intended for hotels and restaurants, this professional Swiss kitchen appliance creates ultra-fine, silky smooth purées from frozen foods, without needing to thaw first. It makes the most amazing mousses, sauces and sorbets. — Chef Tal Abaov (Rothschild TLV: NYC)

hotelrestaurantsupply.com | $7,999 12

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BUTCHER'S CUT

LAMB RIBS

Similar to beef, the rib section of lamb offers some of the most flavorful, marbled and delicious meat on the animal, but takes considerably more time and effort to enjoy than cooking lamb chops or ground lamb. Ribs are generally cut in racks – several bones together with meat on top and in between. It’s best to cook it as a rack, then slice between the bones to serve. LAMB RIBLETS

Riblets bring the most intense lamb flavor and are also the most marbled. They’re delicious, but if you don’t like fatty meat, this cut is not for you. They’re best braised or smoked a day before serving so that the fat can render out (there will still be a lot of fat left though). Deboned, these ribs are called lamb breast or lamb belly and are

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ideal for charcuterie – where lamb bacon and lamb porchetta are made from. In addition, because of their high fat content, lamb riblets add wonderful flavor to braised dishes such as Chagit Leviev’s oshsvo (find the recipe in issue #28 or on the Fleishigs app). Because lamb riblets have so much fat, they are forgiving to cook and can easily be made in advance and reheated. This makes them great for braising at home and they are also a popular choice at restaurants. Wall Street Grill in NYC serves a sweet, savory and tangy version glazed with a homemade sino sauce (see page 16). Chef Gabe Garcia at Tierra Sur cooks his in the sous vide, then finishes with a smoky peach barbecue glaze (see page 19).

L AMB SHORT RIB S are the meatiest and (relatively) leanest part of the lamb ribs, but are not widely available. They’re cut from the same section as rainbow lamb chops, so when butchering a lamb, it can either be cut into short ribs or rainbow chops, but not both. Lamb short ribs can be braised or smoked. BABY BACK LAMB RIBS are the same cut as beef back ribs – the tender, inner rib meat that is found near the rack. There isn’t very much of this very special and delicious meat. Baby back lamb ribs can be seared quickly over high heat, then smoked or slow cooked.

In our opinion, all lamb pairs well with strong flavors, such as curry, rosemary, garlic, chili and mint.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertlybutchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

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Sino Lamb Ribs Serves: 6

By: Chef Joey Paulino (Wall Street Grill, NYC)

Not only does this marinade help tenderize the lamb, it works as a glaze as well, imparting sweet and savory flavors into the lamb. S H O RTC U T: Use 2 cups of Mikee Authentic Chinese Rib Sauce (certified kosher by Chof-K) instead of making your own. E D I TO R'S N OT E S :

• If you are feeling adventurous, make the kecap manis sauce from issue #28 or on the Fleishigs app. • Don’t be turned off by the red food coloring — it can surely be omitted, but adds a bright color. ⅓ cup grated fresh ginger ⅓ cup hoisin sauce ⅓ cup sweet soy glaze (such as Kikkoman) or kecap manis (see head note) ½ cup low-sodium soy sauce ½ cup honey ½ cup mirin 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon red food coloring, optional 3 pounds lamb belly ribs 1. Add ginger, hoisin, sweet soy glaze, soy sauce, honey, mirin, garlic, Chinese five-spice and black pepper to a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-high and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let cool. Stir in red food coloring, if using. 2. Pour sauce over lamb ribs and marinate in the fridge for 4-12 hours. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange ribs in a baking dish in a single layer and pour remaining marinade over ribs. If necessary, use 2 (9x13-inch) pans. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours. 4. Increase temperature to 450°F and roast, covered, for 20-30 minutes, basting ribs once or twice during this final cooking stage. Slice ribs before serving. G R I L L I T:

Grilling lamb ribs over indirect heat allows them to cook low and slow, allowing the fat to render without burning. Because lamb ribs have a lot of fat, this method does take some time. Marinate lamb as directed. Preheat half the grill to medium heat (about 275-300°F) and lightly oil the grates. Grill lamb ribs over indirect heat, covered, for about 45 minutes. Brush with marinade and flip. Cook on the other side, covered, for another 45 minutes. Flip again, brush with more marinade and cook for another 45 minutes. Transfer ribs to a dish and let rest for 20 minutes. Serve warm.

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Sumac Spiced Lamb Ribs with Peach Barbecue Sauce Serves: 4 By: Chef Gabe Garcia (Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard, CA)

Both components of this recipe happen to be delicious on lamb, but are such versatile recipes to have on hand. See below for a few recipes using both the rub and the sauce on chicken. N OT E S :

• When peaches are not in season, use frozen peaches. Do not use canned, as they are typically sweetened with syrup. • If using a Ziploc bag, use the water displacement method to seal — lower it into the water bath (keeping it open). The pressure of the water will force the air out of the bag. Once you see that most of the air is out of the bag, seal it. FO R T H E L A M B R I B S :

2 2 1¼ 1¼ 1 1 2

tablespoons sumac tablespoons fresh thyme leaves teaspoons garlic powder teaspoons onion powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper racks lamb ribs

FO R T H E P E AC H BA R B EC U E SAU C E :

2-3 2 1 4 ⅓ ½ 1½ 1 ⅔ ¼ 1 1 ½ ½

peaches, halved and pitted tablespoons olive oil onion, chopped cloves garlic, minced cup brown sugar cup peach-flavored whiskey (such as Zachlawi) cups tomato sauce cup ketchup cup apple cider vinegar cup molasses tablespoon garlic powder tablespoon onion powder teaspoon cayenne pepper cup water

1. Using a sous vide machine, preheat a water bath to 134°F. 2. For the lamb ribs, mix sumac, thyme, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and pepper. Add lamb ribs to a large Ziploc or vacuum bag and season on both sides with the rub. Seal the bag (see head note) and lower it into the water bath. Cook for 18 hours, making sure the bag is submerged the entire time. Be sure to cover the water bath with plastic wrap to minimize water evaporation. 3. For the barbecue sauce, heat a grill pan over mediumhigh heat. Grill peaches, cut-side down, until well marked and semi-soft. Set aside. Alternatively, broil peaches until charred. 4. Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, 4-6 minutes. Add garlic and grilled peaches and continue sautéing for another 2 minutes. Stir in brown sugar and mix until melted. 5. Add whiskey and cook on high for 3 minutes to burn off the alcohol. Add tomato sauce, ketchup, apple cider vinegar, molasses, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne pepper and water. Lower heat and simmer for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally. 6. Using an immersion blender, purée sauce until smooth. Return to heat and simmer for 3-5 more minutes. 7. Remove ribs from the bag and arrange on a cooling rack set over a baking sheet. Pat dry with a paper towel. 8. Brush with sauce on both sides. Heat grill pan over high heat and sear until sauce begins to caramelize, 4-5 minutes per side. SW I TC H I T U P:

Sumac Roasted Chicken: Sprinkle a whole chicken cut into eighths with sumac spice rub. Roast in a 425°F oven for 45 minutes, until juices run clear. Peach Barbecue Chicken: Pour 1½ cups Peach Barbecue Sauce over a whole chicken cut into eighths. Roast in a 425°F oven for 40 minutes, until juices run clear, then broil for 3-5 minutes. Sumac Roasted Barbecue Glazed Chicken: Sprinkle a whole chicken cut into eighths with sumac spice rub. Roast in a 425°F oven for 40 minutes. Pour 1¼ cups Peach Barbecue Sauce over chicken and roast for another 10-12 minutes. JANUARY 2022

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Slow-Roasted Lamb Riblets Serves: 4-8

By: Naftali Hanau

This recipe can be prepared up to four days in advance. Once cooked, let cool completely, then cover and store in the fridge. Reheat, uncovered, in a 170-200°F oven until warm. N OT E : If preparing lamb ribs for only four people, you can either halve the spice rub recipe (the quantities can easily cover ribs for eight) or store the remaining rub in a spice jar for a later use.

2 2 2 2 1 2 1½ 4-8 ½

tablespoons turmeric tablespoons cumin tablespoons curry powder tablespoons chili powder tablespoon black pepper teaspoons garlic powder teaspoons baharat pounds lamb riblets cup water Green Tahini, for serving (page 71)

1. Mix spices until combined. Pat riblets dry with a paper towel and season generously with spice rub. Refrigerate overnight. 2. Preheat oven to 200°F. Arrange riblets in a single layer, bone-side down, in a large roasting pan. Add water to the pan. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and cook for 1 hour. 3. Uncover riblets and cook for another 4-5 hours. Increase temperature to 450°F. Baste riblets with the rendered fat, then roast for 10-20 minutes. Serve with tahini.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Lamb Belly “Porchetta” Serves: 4

By: Chef Isaac Bernstein (Gruit, Brooklyn, NY)

Chef Isaac Bernstein began his illustrious career as the founder and chef of Epic Bites, a catering company that revolutionized the kosher scene with progressive tasting menus that could compete with the most critically acclaimed restaurants in the world. This recipe comes from his vast collection and was part of a 24-course tasting menu many years ago.

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This dish is inspired by porchetta, a delicacy in the nonkosher world — pork belly wrapped around a pork roast and slow roasted. The fat in the pork belly flavors the lean protein in a porchetta and the rich lamb belly here brings similar qualities to this dish. In the kosher world, lamb belly, which is actually deboned lamb ribs, is used often for charcuterie or as a flavor base in braised dishes. Once seared, these medallions are wonderful served over a simple arugula and olive salad or added to a charcuterie board. HA VE

LI T

N OT E S : In order to make this dish, you need to either debone and butterfly a lamb breast yourself or order one from your local butcher. We used a lamb breast from Grow & Behold and butterflied it at home. Check out our stories on Instagram (@fleishigsmag) for a how-to video.

M B .

1 2 2 1 1 1

lamb breast, deboned and butterflied tablespoons garlic oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper sprig fresh rosemary, stripped sprig fresh thyme, stripped Zest of 1 lemon

1. Drizzle lamb breast with garlic oil and season with salt and pepper. Finely chop rosemary and thyme and mix with lemon zest. Rub all over the lamb. 2. Roll up the lamb belly, then wrap in plastic wrap as tightly as possible and twist the ends tightly. Wrap in a second piece of plastic wrap. Alternatively, tie tightly with twine every few inches, then wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight, if possible. 3. Using a sous vide machine, preheat a water bath to 156°F. Add lamb to a large Ziploc or vacuum bag. Seal the bag and lower it into the water bath (see displacement method tip on page 19). Cook for 24 hours, making sure the bag is submerged the entire time. Be sure to cover the water bath with plastic wrap to minimize water evaporation. 4. Remove lamb from the water bath and let cool for 30 minutes. Working over a dish, discard plastic wrap and reserve the juices, then rewrap it in new plastic wrap as tightly as possible. Refrigerate until completely cooled. 5. Heat a cast iron pan over medium-high heat. Slice the roulade into medallions and sear for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown.

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TRAVEL

GO CRAWLS TO THE WALLS. THE HOWS AND WHYS OF A FOOD CRAWL BY: DEVORAH BACKMAN

“crawl” brings to mind tipsy crowds stumbling from one bar to the next or well-dressed influencers snapping photos of their food and then leaving without taking a bite — well, think again. A food crawl can be a fun, adventurous and totally accessible way to dine out, whether you’re staying in your own hometown or traveling somewhere new. On a breezy fall morning, Shlomo and Shifra Klein did exactly that. “We had a free day and wanted to go out to eat,” says Shifra, “but we weren’t looking to spend $300 at a steakhouse.” Instead, they headed to Teaneck, NJ, a quiet suburban town with some 20+ kosher establishments — the perfect place for an all-day foodie adventure. Turns out, you don’t have to be an influencer to food crawl like a pro — all you need is an appetite, a plan and a sense of adventure. A food crawl can be as simple as heading out with a partner to a restaurant-heavy neighborhood and walking from stop to stop or as involved as gathering a group of friends and F THE WORD

making reservations with each restaurant in advance. (Or take a cue from my local shul sisterhood and book an entire party bus to visit every kosher café in Brooklyn!) For Shifra Klein, a food crawl in a new town offers a few major advantages over a typical restaurant dinner. “You get to see everything the town has to offer and actually get to know the area and the vibe more than if you just sat down in one restaurant,” she says. “Many restaurants have one or two specialty dishes that they’ve perfected, ones you can’t get anywhere else.” Do some social media research, ask the staff for recommendations and don’t be afraid to order adventurously — even if you don’t love one dish, you’re soon on to the next! Planning is key — especially if you want to fit both meat and dairy establishments into your trip. For the Kleins, that meant starting their day at Patis Bakery. The Teaneck location of this quickly-growing kosher patisserie chain offers an upscale coffee shop ambiance with a thoughtful selection of soups and sandwiches as well as authentic French pastries and breads. Over iced lattes and a caramel kouign-amann

You don’t have to be an influencer to food crawl like a pro.

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TRAVEL

HEADED TO TEANECK? HERE ARE MY PICKS FROM SOME OTHER LOCAL EATERIES:

LOUISIANA SPICY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH FROM

(think over-the-top flaky croissant with a crispy, caramelized sugar underside, stuffed with dulce de leche and topped with vanilla whipped cream and caramel drizzle), they used Google Maps to plan the route for the rest of the day. In many towns (Teaneck included), kosher establishments tend to be clustered on popular streets — marking your destinations on a map can help cut down on travel time and save parking hassles. Before they left, the Kleins had to try an affogato, an espresso poured over Patis’ house-made ice cream. To take a break between meat and dairy, stop for a pareve treat. Sometimes these overlooked spots are the hidden gem of the neighborhood — the fresh juice bar, the authentic hole-in-the-wall falafel spot, the vegan bakery, the sushi bar with the creative rolls or just a place to get artisanal popsicles. In Teaneck, you might stop at Jus by Julie for a Spicy Pomegranate Juice or head to neighboring Englewood to check out the handcrafted chocolates at Coco Jolie. In other towns, this would be the perfect time to stock up at the local kosher specialty shop, visit a microbrewery or — and this might sound radical, so stick with me — take a break from food and visit a local housewares shop, museum or park. For lunch, the Kleins simply walked down quaint Cedar Lane to Narruto Bowl, a creative casual spot that specializes in Asian and Latin American-inspired bowls and street food. “Another benefit of a daytime food crawl is taking advantage of lunch specials,” says Shifra Klein. Not sure which restaurants offer specials for lunch? Check their social media or even message them in advance to make sure. At Narruto Bowl, the Kleins opted for the “Crispy AF Korean Hot Chicken” with kewpie (a Japanese-style mayo) on a squishy bun and the Matzah Bowl

SENDER’S SMOKE JOINT ISRAELI-STYLE BOUREKA AT BREAD BOUTIQUE FROM TENAFLY FLAVORED BLENDED COFFEE DRINKS FROM LAZY BEAN CAFÉ AUTHENTIC LAMB SHAWARMA FROM YALLA SZECHUAN DUMPLINGS AND PAD THAI FROM WOK18

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Banging on your restaurant door, My rice pilaf spilled on the floor. My hands and knees are bruised and I’m crawling back to you. Begging for a second plate, Are you gonna let me in? I know you’re in there and you can make me a reservation. But I’m not gonna wait, It’s the least that I can do, just to tell you face to plate. I was lying to myself, now I’m hungry on the belt. Patis I know you’re mad, I can’t blame you for being mad. But Narruto here I am. -MATT GRAY

Devorah Backman has two children, lives in Teaneck, NJ and works as a publicist in the kitchenware and book publishing industries. Together with her sister Chana Z. Weiss, she showcases her love of cooking and entertaining on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

— an entrée-sized bowl of Narruto’s signature broth loaded with vegetables, meat, a soft cooked egg and the star of the show — a perfect duck fat matzah ball. Shifra Klein counts this as one of her favorite dishes of the day. “It’s like the best matzah ball soup you’ve ever tasted, just a totally different expression of the Jewish classic we all know.” Staying in the Asian-food theme and just a little farther down Cedar Lane is the kosher-dining stalwart Estihana. On a typical evening, the Estihana dining room tends to be raucous, with Sheva Brachos celebrations, family birthday dinners and date nights, so lunch is the perfect time to try some of their tried-and-true dishes without the crowds. The Kleins opted for what is perhaps Estihana’s best known dish — shredded crispy beef. With food prices increasing across the industry, a crawl is a creative way to have a fun night out while keeping costs under control. The image of a food crawl is sometimes one of excess and overabundance, but if you share dishes, stick to appetizers and opt for mid-range or café-style eateries, you can have all the adventure and delicious cuisine at a reasonable price point. Don’t forget that takeout-only joints can often have the best deals in town. If budget is important to you, planning ahead will help you stay on track and not end up with sticker shock at the end of the day. Before the Kleins headed back over the George Washington Bridge, they took a break to hike in a nearby park and work up their appetite one last time. Their last stop was Tavlin, a classic Mediterranean eatery on a picturesque restaurant row in Tenafly, just outside of Teaneck. There they enjoyed a creamy bowl of hummus served with warm, house-made pita — a perfect light ending to a day of good eats. JANUARY 2022

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SEASONAL

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oing out to eat can be wonderful, but is not always practical. Whether your budget doesn’t allow for it or finding a babysitter is proving to be impossible, creating a restaurant experience at home can feel just as satisfying, if not more. This guide will walk you through the process from start to finish, leaving no questions unanswered and no guesswork. Two menu options are provided here, but feel free to take inspiration and create your favorite experience from scratch. STEP 1: MAKE A “RESERVATION”

Set a date and time in advance, whether it’s just you and a spouse or friend or a whole crowd of guests. Making plans ahead of time is what will really make this dinner special. STEP 2: SELECT A THEME

Ask yourself what kind of vibe you’re going for — are you trying to recreate a dining experience you’ve already had with dishes that you loved or travel somewhere you’ve never been? STEP 3: DECOR AND AMBIANCE

Draw inspiration from platforms like Instagram or Pinterest to conceptualize your theme. Simple bargain store finds like a new set of glassware or cloth napkins can really set the mood. Create a playlist with restaurant-style music and flood your table with lots of candles. STEP 4: MENU AND GROCERY LIST

Working within your theme, create a menu complete with appetizers, entrées, desserts and drinks, then create a grocery list. Print menus to place on each place setting. STEP 5: PREPARATION AND COOKING

Come up with a scheduled plan to prepare, cook and serve the dishes. Read through the recipes and decide what can be prepped the day before, morning of, hour before and right before serving. Writing out the game plan in outline form will help keep you organized. STEP 6: GET DRESSED AND HAVE FUN

Get dressed as if you were going out — shoes included — and have fun! There are no restaurant critics here, just a chance to try something new and enjoy yourself. STEP 7: SERVING

Keep in mind that restaurant meals are not all served at once. Allow for some time between courses for plating, good conversation and some digesting! This is your house, so you can have guests join you in the kitchen to watch you prepare the next part of the menu if you’d like or have them sit back and relax while you prepare the next course. JANUARY 2022

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To give your home the vibe and ambiance of an upscale steakhouse, set the table with a crisp white tablecloth and black cloth napkins. Line a basket with a cloth napkin for the bread basket, light some tea lights, dim the lights and put on soft instrumental piano music for the perfect mood.

MENU APPETIZER

Warmed Baguette with Oil and Maldon Salt Avocado Egg Rolls with Tangy Dipping Sauce COCKTAIL

Zesty Lemon Drop Martini ENTRÉE

Skillet Ribeye with Confit Garlic and Vine Tomatoes 15-Hour Potatoes DESSERT

Family-Style Chocolate Molten Cake with Ice Cream and Strawberries Nana Tea

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Zesty Lemon Drop Martini Serves: 2

This cocktail tastes like an elevated lemonade — refreshing, tart and chilled, with a kick of alcohol! To take it over the top, rim the glasses with turbinado sugar, which adds a sweet and crunchy touch to the experience. To make simple syrup, add ¼ cup water and ¼ cup sugar to a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave for 1 minute, then stir until sugar is dissolved. Set aside to cool. Run a lemon wedge along the rims of two martini glasses. Place ¼ cup turbinado sugar in a shallow dish or plate and dip each glass into sugar. Pour 8 ounces vodka, 2 tablespoons triple sec, zest of 1 lemon, juice of 2 lemons and 2 ounces of cooled simple syrup into a cocktail shaker. Add a handful of ice and shake vigorously. Strain into prepared glasses. 40

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Avocado Egg Rolls with Tangy Dipping Sauce Yield: 8

To bake these egg rolls instead of frying, arrange on a baking sheet, spray the tops and cook in a 400°F oven for 15 minutes, then flip and cook for another 5 minutes, until golden and crispy. FO R T H E D I P P I N G SAU C E :

2 ¼ ¼ 2 ½ ¼

shallots, thinly sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil cup fresh lime juice tablespoons sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro or basil

FO R T H E EG G RO L LS :

2 avocados 1 Roma tomato, finely chopped 1 shallot, minced 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro or basil 1 tablespoon lime juice 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes or chili paste, optional 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper ½ teaspoon garlic powder 8 egg roll wrappers Water, for brushing Vegetable oil, for frying

juice, oil, red pepper flakes (if desired), salt, pepper and garlic. 3. Working one at a time, place an egg roll wrapper on a surface with a corner pointed to the bottom. Place ¼ cup filling on the lower third portion of the wrapper. Fold the bottom over the filling and tuck it underneath, pressing down on the wrapper on either side of the filling. Fold each side inward, then brush water on the exposed edges and corner of the wrapper and continue folding tightly until completely sealed. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.

1. For the dipping sauce, whisk all ingredients until combined. Set aside.

4. To fry, heat about 2 inches of oil in a deep pan until it reaches 350°F. Fry a few egg rolls at a time to the pan, being mindful not to overcrowd the pan. Cook until golden brown and bubbled, about 1-2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cooling rack or paper towel.

2. For the egg rolls, mash avocados with the back of a fork, leaving some chunks for texture. Add tomatoes, shallots, herbs, lime

5. Once cool enough to handle, use a sharp knife to slice egg rolls in half diagonally. Serve immediately with dipping sauce. JANUARY 2022

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Skillet Ribeye with Confit Garlic and Vine Tomatoes This is the ultimate steakhouse experience. All of the elements can be prepared the day before and finished just before the meal. E D I TO R’S N OT E S :

• Using the reverse sear method (cooking in the oven and then finishing with a sear, as opposed to the other way around) takes a lot of the guesswork out of a perfectly cooked steak. • Rather than relying on exact quantities for the salt and pepper, be generous with the seasoning and be sure to season from high up for even distribution. FO R T H E C O N F I T GA R L I C & V I N E TO M ATO E S :

12 1 ½ 1 ½

cloves garlic, peeled pound vine tomatoes cup vegetable oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

FO R T H E S K I L L E T R I B E Y E :

2 ¼

(1½-inch) boneless ribeye filets, at room temperature Kosher salt Coarsely cracked black pepper cup oil from confit garlic and vine tomatoes

1. For the confit garlic and vine tomatoes, preheat oven to 250°F. Add garlic and tomatoes to an 8x8-inch oven safe baking dish. Cover with olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. 2. Bake for 1½-2 hours, until garlic is soft and golden and tomatoes begin to blister. If preparing in advance, store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two weeks. Gently reheat before serving. 3. For the steak, preheat oven to 250°F. Prepare a cooling rack on top of a parchment-lined baking sheet and set aside. Pat steaks with a paper towel to remove any excess moisture and generously season on both sides with salt and pepper. Place steak on the prepared rack. Cook for about 45 minutes to 1 hour for mediumrare, until internal temperature reads 118-120°F, which is about 10-15 degrees cooler than desired final temperature (steaks will continue cooking as they rest).

4. Heat confit oil in a cast iron skillet over high heat. Sear steaks for 1-2 minutes per side, until a golden crust forms and the internal temperature reads between 128-132°F for medium-rare. Final temperature for rare: 120°F Final temperature for medium/rare: 130°F Final temperature for medium: 140°F Final temperature for medium-well: 150°F Final temperature for well done: 160°F

15-Hour Potatoes This dish requires advanced planning, but the restaurant-quality result is so worth it. It can also be made a few days in advance, just fry right before serving or when the timer for the steak has 15 minutes left to time the meal just right. 4 ⅓ 2

large Russet potatoes, washed and peeled cup olive oil teaspoons kosher salt Vegetable oil, for frying Maldon salt

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Line a loaf pan with parchment paper and set aside. Using a mandoline, slice potatoes very thinly. Toss well with oil and salt. 2. Layer potatoes in the loaf pan. Cover top with a piece of parchment paper and cook for 3 hours. 3. Once cooked, place a few cans on top of the parchment paper to weigh down and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. 4. Turn potatoes out onto a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, slice into 1½-inch wide pieces to yield a total of 10 slices. 5. Preheat 1½ inches vegetable oil in a heavybottomed pot. Fry for 5-7 minutes on each side, until golden and crisp. Transfer to a cooling rack or paper towel and immediately sprinkle with Maldon salt.

Warmed Baguette with Oil and Maldon Salt Preheat oven to 300°F. Place a baguette on a baking sheet and heat for 10 minutes, until warmed. Pour high quality extra-virgin olive oil onto a plate or shallow dish and sprinkle with Maldon salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste.

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GLOBAL FLAVORS

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Family-Style Chocolate Molten Cake Serves: 6

½ ¾ 2 ½ ½ 1 ½

cup non-dairy butter substitute cup bittersweet chocolate chips eggs + 2 yolks cup sugar cup all-purpose flour teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoon kosher salt Non-dairy vanilla ice cream, for serving Sliced fresh strawberries, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 325°F and grease an 8-inch round cake pan or pie dish. Set aside. 2. Add butter and chocolate to a bowl and melt over a double boiler. Alternatively, microwave in 30-second increments until melted. Set aside to cool. 3. Whisk eggs, yolks and sugar until frothy. Add chocolate

mixture and fold to combine. Add flour, vanilla and salt and gently fold in. 4. Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake for 18-20 minutes, until the edges are firm and the center is still runny. 5. Serve immediately with ice cream and sliced strawberries.

Nana Tea Serves: 2

EDITOR’S NOTE: There is nothing better than a hot glass of tea to round out a delicious meal. The fresh mint tea served at Noi Due Carne in New York City is so simple, yet so perfect. Add 4 cups water, 1 cup fresh mint, 3 bags mint tea, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 2 tablespoons honey to a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and allow to steep for 5 minutes. Strain. To serve, pour into two tea cups over additional fresh mint.

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Homemade Chinese Takeout This menu is an elevated, upscale version of the classics we all know and love. To set a cohesive vibe, set chopsticks at each place setting and use melamine or acrylic takeout boxes as centerpieces for floral arrangements or for napkins and extra cutlery.

Menu APPETIZER

Hot and Sour Soup DRINK

Jasmine tea ENTRÉE

Vegetable Fried Rice Beef and Broccoli Chicken Lo Mein DESSERT

Sweet Oranges and Fortune Cookies

NOTES While a wok is recommended and can be found at inexpensive price points, all recipes can be made in a large sauté pan. Keep in mind that all these recipes are quite simple to make, but the key is proper mise en place — having everything chopped, prepped, lined up and ready to go.

Hot and Sour Soup Serves: 8

This soup is like nothing you’ve ever tasted. It is rich, comforting and bursting with spicy and sour flavors. If you plan to make this soup in advance, it does refrigerate and freeze well without the eggs — plan to add eggs into the soup just before serving.

8 8 ½ ½ 3 2 1 ½ ⅓

3 16 1 6 ½

cups chicken or vegetable broth ounces shiitake mushrooms, sliced cup low-sodium soy sauce cup rice vinegar tablespoons grated fresh ginger tablespoons chili paste or Sriracha tablespoon maple syrup teaspoon white pepper cup cornstarch, dissolved into 2 cups water eggs, beaten ounces firm tofu, patted dry and cut into ½-inch strips tablespoon toasted sesame oil scallions, thinly sliced cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro, optional

1. Add chicken broth, mushrooms, soy sauce, rice vinegar, ginger, chili paste, maple syrup and white pepper to a pot over high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes, until mushrooms soften. 2. Add cornstarch slurry and mix vigorously until soup begins to thicken. (If preparing in advance, refrigerate or freeze at this point.) 3. Slowly pour in the beaten eggs, mixing continuously. The eggs will cook and resemble ribbons. Add tofu, sesame oil, scallions and cilantro, if desired. Serve immediately.

Jasmine Tea E D I TO R’S N OT E : A steaming hot pot of tea is a mainstay at Chinese restaurants in America. In fact, Jasmine tea is one of the most popular tea varieties in China and is packed with antioxidants and linked to many health benefits. It is lightly fragrant and typically has white, black or green tea added to it. A cup of tea is the perfect antidote to round out a somewhat heavy meal.

Steep jasmine tea bags in water according to personal preference with sugar or honey. Serve in tea cups.

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Vegetable Fried Rice Serves: 8

Fried rice is a wonderful way to use up leftover rice. Feel free to finely chop any of your favorite vegetables and mix them into the rice in step four.

⅓ 2 6 2 1 1 ¼

½ ¼ 2 1 1 1 3 4 ¼

cup vegetable oil, divided eggs, beaten cloves garlic, minced tablespoons grated fresh ginger large onion, finely chopped teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup low-sodium soy sauce cup maple syrup tablespoons Worcestershire sauce tablespoon toasted sesame oil tablespoon chili paste, optional (12-ounce) bag frozen carrots and peas cups cooked rice scallions, thinly sliced cup toasted sesame seeds

1. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add eggs and leave undisturbed for about 30 seconds, then use a spatula to break the egg up into pieces and continue to cook through. Once cooked, transfer eggs to a plate. 2. Add remaining oil (approximately ¼ cup) to the wok and add garlic, ginger, onions, salt and pepper. Sauté for 5-7 minutes. Add soy sauce, maple syrup, Worcestershire sauce, sesame oil and chili paste, if desired. Stir to combine. 3. Add carrots and peas and sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add cooked rice and eggs and toss to coat. Increase heat to high and brown the rice by pressing it up and against the sides of the wok, leaving it undisturbed for about 5 minutes. 4. Mix in scallions. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Beef and Broccoli Serves: 6

Marinating meat with sauce and cornstarch is called “velveting” and will recreate the succulent and soft texture of the meat you find in Chinese takeout. Blanching the meat in water further tenderizes it. FO R T H E B E E F:

1 1 1

tablespoon cornstarch tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce tablespoon rice vinegar

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1 1 1 1 1

tablespoon vegetable oil tablespoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon baking soda egg white pound London broil or hanger steak, thinly sliced against the grain

FO R T H E C H I C K E N :

1 1 1 1 1

FO R T H E B RO C C O L I A N D SAU C E :

4 ½ ¼ ¼ 2

1 ¼

4 2 6 2 4 ¼

cups broccoli florets cup low-sodium soy sauce cup maple syrup cup rice vinegar tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved into 2 tablespoons warm water tablespoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups water tablespoons vegetable oil cloves garlic, mined tablespoons grated fresh ginger scallions, thinly sliced cup toasted sesame seeds

1. For the beef marinade, whisk cornstarch, soy sauce, rice vinegar, oil, sesame oil, baking soda and egg white until combined. Add sliced meat and toss until well coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. 2. Add broccoli to a large microwave-safe bowl. Seal tightly with plastic wrap and microwave for 5 minutes on high. Alternatively, steam in a steamer basket. The broccoli should be a bright green color and still have a crunch to it. 3. For the sauce, mix soy sauce, maple syrup, rice vinegar, cornstarch slurry, sesame oil and black pepper. Set aside. 4. Bring water to a boil in a wok. Once boiling, add marinated meat and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until meat is nearly cooked through. Using a slotted spoon, transfer meat to a plate. Empty wok and wipe clean. 5. Heat vegetable oil in the same wok over medium-high heat. Add garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Lower heat and add sauce, mixing until thickened. 6. Add meat and broccoli and toss to coat over high heat, about 30 seconds. To serve, garnish with scallions and sesame seeds.

Chicken Lo Mein Serves: 8

It’s worth seeking out fresh lo mein noodles, such as Twin Marquis, available in many Asian markets. If you can’t find, use any packaged Asian-style lo mein noodles.

tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce tablespoon rice vinegar tablespoon sesame oil tablespoon cornstarch pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, thinly sliced

FO R T H E LO M E I N :

½ ⅓ ½ 2 2

1 1 ⅛ 2 3 1 2

1 ½ 6 1

cup raw cashews cup maple syrup cup soy sauce tablespoons Worcestershire sauce tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved into 2 tablespoons warm water tablespoon toasted sesame oil tablespoon chili paste, optional teaspoon white pepper tablespoons vegetable oil cloves garlic, minced tablespoon freshly grated ginger heads baby bok choy, cut into 2-inch pieces cup trimmed snow peas cup shredded carrots scallions, divided (16-ounce) package fresh lo mein noodles, such as Twin Marquis

1. For the marinade, whisk soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and cornstarch slurry until combined. Add sliced chicken and toss until well coated. Set aside. 2. Toast cashews in a wok over medium heat until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Set aside. 3. For the sauce, mix maple syrup, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cornstarch slurry, sesame oil, chili paste and white pepper. 4. Heat vegetable oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chicken and cook until opaque, but not cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add bok choy, snow peas, carrots and ⅔ of the sliced scallions and sauté for 1 minute, until vegetables soften. Lower heat and add sauce, mixing until thickened. 5. Add lo mein noodles and toss to coat. Cook over high heat for about 2 minutes. To serve, garnish with remaining scallions. Adina Silberman is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking, with a simple food philosophy — she cooks backwards, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks turn their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and two daughters.

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Sweet Orange Slices Serves: 4

At our local Chinese restaurant, the meal ends off with a plate of orange slices, fortune cookies and vanilla ice cream. The oranges are always super sweet and such a treat with the ice cream and fortune cookies — a delicious and simple way to end a sometimes heavy meal. We replicated the experience by purchasing store bought fortune cookies, macerating oranges in sugar and serving with ice cream and jasmine tea. Sprinkle ¼ sugar over 4 oranges sliced into wedges. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Serve chilled.

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ISRAEL ROW

BY: SHIFRA KLEIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER

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ISRAEL ROW

WITH OVER 20 Israeli restaurants throughout South Florida, it’s safe to say that the area is not lacking in this cuisine. After dining at many of the hot spots in Miami in recent years, we made it our mission to find some new — less trendy — places in North Miami Beach. Over on an inconspicuous, humble side of Aventura lie a few Israeli establishments that bring the shuk experience to South Florida. While the experiences are far from glamorous, the flavors and vibe of the Israeli marketplaces truly shine.

IL NUTS — YOSSEF ROASTING is a small shop that sells roasted nuts and every spice you would find in any shuk in Israel. The variety of nuts spans from sweet (halva and lotus crusted pecans) to savory (fried salted fava beans) and everything in between. Beyond the nuts and spices is an array of Israeli staples and candy, truly rounding out the shuk experience. 19098 W Dixie Highway (786) 916-5141 MAMA PIZZA is a simple, nofrills pizza store with ample outdoor seating that is known for their bourekas. The pizza is Israeli-style — thin crust, Israeli shredded cheese and a spiced tomato sauce. There is also an affordable breakfast option as well as Israeli-style toast sandwiches. 19200 W Dixie Highway Miami Beach (305) 901-1502 HATEMANIA is located right next door to Mama Pizza and is the only dedicated Yemenite kosher restaurant in the United States. The ambience is simple, with just a few tables in a small space. If you love a hearty bowl of soup, this place is for you — the chicken soup is spiced to utter perfection and filled to the brim with hearty potatoes, carrots and chicken, served with a side of freshly made kubaneh (bread), schug and hilbeh (traditional Yemeni dip). The falafel, packed with fresh green herbs, is also noteworthy, boasting a crispy exterior and fluffy interior.

MS. DIXIE is a simple sandwich shop with great Israeli touches. Aside from the delicious homemade buns and the variety of salads, the Israeli-inspired appetizers make it stand out from other sandwich shops. We loved the sweet potatoes with chickpeas and blackened cabbage. Another interesting appetizer was the corn ribs, a trending menu item available in a few South Florida restaurants. The space inside is small, but there is generous outdoor seating. 21000 W Dixie Highway Miami Beach (305) 933-3305 NUNUNU, the brainchild of Chef Avi (from the former restaurant Sami & Susu), is located about a 10-minute drive from these few casual spots. Chef Avi simplified his approach and created a fast casual restaurant that serves perfectly-executed Israeli classics. The hummus is super creamy and flavorful and the pitas are fluffy. We visited on a Thursday night and were lucky enough to try the evening sandwich special — schnitzel in a sesame roll (also known as a lachmania) with all the fixings (hummus, matbucha, fried eggplant, roasted peppers or pickles). Their baklava spring rolls inspired this month’s Something Sweet column (page 154). 17066-B Collins Ave, Sunny Isles Beach, FL 33160 (305) 705-2276

19202 W Dixie Highway Miami Beach (786) 802-3149

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Lachmania Schnitzel Sandwich

Roasted Eggplant

Serves: 6

Serves: 4-8

This is less of a recipe and more of a guide. These are our favorite components and include a bit of everything — creamy, crunchy and spicy — but feel free to adjust based on your personal preferences.

6 1 1 6

Lachmaniot (recipe follows), split cup Shortcut Hummus (page 59) cup Sheet Pan Matbucha (recipe follows) pieces Super Crispy Schnitzel (recipe follows) Oven-Roasted Eggplant (recipe follows) Israeli pickles, sliced

¼ 1½ ½

large globe eggplant (about 2 pounds), sliced into 1-inch rounds cup olive oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 450°F. Brush both sides of eggplant with olive oil, then season with salt and pepper. Arrange on a baking sheet and roast for 25-30 minutes, until golden brown. Flip and roast for an additional 15-20 minutes.

Spread hummus on lachmaniot, then drizzle with matbucha. Top with schnitzel, eggplant and pickles. Serve immediately.

Super Crispy Schnitzel

Sheet Pan Matbucha

To make in advance, bread chicken, then freeze raw in freezer-safe Ziploc bags between layers of parchment paper. Fry straight from the freezer (since the cutlets are so thin, they don’t require much defrosting time).

Yield: 1½ cups

This method for making matbucha is my personal favorite. To control the spice level, omit the cayenne pepper or seed the jalapeño. To increase the heat, add another jalapeño or two to the sheet pan. 4

2 1 1 5 ¼ ½ ⅛ 1½

ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped, or 1 (14½-ounce) can diced tomatoes jalapeños, halved green or red pepper, halved and seeded small onion cloves garlic cup oil tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon cayenne pepper tablespoons tomato paste

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. On a baking sheet, toss tomatoes, jalapeños, peppers, onions and garlic with oil, salt and cayenne. Roast for 25 minutes. Let cool. 2. Transfer to a food processor with tomato paste and pulse until chunky. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Serves: 6

N OT E : Pound the chicken breasts between pieces of parchment paper for easy clean up.

1 1 3 4 ½ 6

cup all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt eggs, beaten cups panko breadcrumbs cup toasted sesame seeds boness, skinless chicken breasts, butterflied and pounded thinly Oil, for frying Flaky sea salt, for serving

1. Create a dredging station by adding flour and salt to one plate, beaten eggs to another plate and panko and sesame seeds to a third plate. Dredge chicken in flour, then eggs and finally in panko mixture. 2. Heat 1 inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and fry schnitzel for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a cooling rack to drain and season immediately with flaky sea salt. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Yemenite Soup Serves: 12

This soup is devoured every time we make it as a welcome change to the classic Friday night chicken soup. It’s packed with flavor, easy to make, perfect for winter and makes enough to freeze extra. E XT R A ST E P: To develop even more flavor,

roast the chicken necks and bone marrow in a 500°F oven for 25 minutes before adding to the soup.

2 1 3 3 2 1

½ ¼ 1 1 1

tablespoons olive oil onion, diced carrots, diced stalks celery, roughly chopped tomatoes, chopped teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste cup hawaij chicken, cut into eighths pound chicken necks pound marrow bones 10-12 cups water, to cover

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions, carrots and celery and sauté until tender, about 15 minutes. Add tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and

sauté for another 8 minutes, until tomatoes soften. Add hawaij and sauté for 3 minutes. 2. Add remaining ingredients and enough water to cover everything; bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 2 hours. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper, as needed.

Hilbeh Yield: ⅓ cup

Hilbeh is a bitter condiment made from fenugreek and is popular in Yemenite cuisine. Add ¼ cup fenugreek powder to a bowl and cover completely with water. Stir powder into water, cover and refrigerate overnight. Strain any excess water, then stir until smooth. The mixture will be slightly gelatinous. Pour into a blender with ¾ cup cold water and blend on high for 1-2 minutes. Mix in 2 tablespoons schug (recipe follows).

Schug Yield: 1 cup

Blend 3 halved jalapeños, ½ cup packed fresh cilantro, ½ cup packed fresh parsley, ¼ cup olive oil, 3 garlic cloves, 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 1½ teaspoons kosher salt and 1 teaspoon ground cardamom until desired consistency is reached.

Recipes Inspired by Israel Row 56

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Shortcut Hummus Yield: 2½ cups

The secret to really good shortcut hummus is outlined in Israeli Soul by acclaimed chef Michael Solomonov. Simmering canned chickpeas with baking soda gives the hummus a similar result to the more laborious (worth it, undoubtedly) process of making hummus with raw chickpeas. 1 ½ ¼ 1 1 ½ 2-4 ½ 2

(15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed teaspoon baking soda cup lemon juice (from 1-2 lemons), plus more to taste clove garlic, roughly chopped teaspoon fine sea salt cup tahini tablespoons ice water, plus more as needed teaspoon ground cumin tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Add chickpeas and baking soda to a saucepan over high heat. Cover with a few inches of water. Bring to a boil and cook for 20 minutes, until the chickpeas soften and the skins start falling off. Drain. 2. Meanwhile, add lemon juice, garlic and salt to a food processor or high-powered blender and process until garlic is finely chopped. Add tahini and process until creamy. With the motor running, add cold water and blend until smooth. 3. Add cumin and chickpeas. With the motor running, drizzle in olive oil. Blend until desired consistency is reached, scraping down the sides of the processor as necessary, about 2 minutes. Add more ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to achieve a super creamy texture.

Stewed Chickpeas Serves: 4-8

Inspired by a dish we had at Mama Kitchen, these stewed chickpeas are the ultimate topping for hummus. The serving size varies depending on how you plan on serving it. As a topping, it can feed up to eight.

1 2 1 1 ½ 2 ½

tablespoon olive oil cloves garlic, thinly sliced (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed tablespoon hawaij teaspoon kosher salt cups chicken broth cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley, for serving

1. Heat olive oil in a small pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté for 2 minutes, until fragrant and tender, but not browned. 2. Add chickpeas, hawaij and salt and sauté for 1 minute. Add chicken broth, lower heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes. To serve, top with fresh herbs.

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BREAKING BREAD

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BREAKING BREAD

There is nothing quite like freshly baked bread and these Middle Eastern varieties have stood out in a few of our recent restaurant experiences. Baking fresh bread for dinner elevates at-home dining to restaurant level.

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BREAKING BREAD

One Bowl Lachmaniot

Lachuch

Yield: 12-16 rolls

Yield: 8 pancakes

By: Naomi Elberg

Airy, light and made with minimal ingredients, these all-purpose rolls are perfect for any sandwich and even serve as the perfect hot dog buns. You can use any combination of flour, but for the fluffiest results, I recommend using a high-gluten (bread) flour. If using all-purpose flour, increase kneading time to 5-10 minutes. N OT E : To rest the dough balls, I highly recommend plastic (reusable) cafeteria trays, which can be found on Amazon in many sizes and colors. FO R T H E L AC H M A N I OT:

2½ cups water ¼ cup sugar 2 tablespoons yeast 2 eggs ¼ cup neutral oil 6-8 cups bread flour, divided 1 tablespoon fine Himalayan sea salt

By: Shifra Klein

6. Mix yeast and sugar with ½ cup water; stir and let sit until mostly dissolved.

Lachuch is a unique spongy Yemenite pancake — a great vehicle to soak up the rich flavors of Yemenite stews and soups. The secret is to keep tabs on the temperature of the pan; as you only cook the pancake on one side (no flipping), it’s important that the pan doesn’t get too hot. If it does (you’ll know if the pan smokes or the lachuch gets too dark), remove from the heat and run cold water over the bottom of the pan.

7. Mix flour, remaining 3 cups water, oil and salt, then add to yeast mixture. Mix until well combined and smooth. Let rest for 1 hour.

10. Store lachuch between layers of parchment paper in a Ziploc bag. Refrigerate for up to 2 days.

1 3½ 3 ¼ ½

packet (2¼ teaspoons) active-dry yeast tablespoon sugar cups warm water, divided cups all-purpose flour cup oil teaspoon kosher salt

8. Grease a cold frying pan. Pour ½ cup batter into the pan, then turn on the fire to medium-high. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then lower heat and cook for another 2 minutes. 9. Transfer lachuch to a paper towellined plate. Repeat with remaining batter.

FO R T H E EG G WAS H :

egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water Toasted sesame seeds, optional

1. Add water, sugar and yeast to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Mix on low speed until combined. Let rest until bubbles appear on the surface, 5-10 minutes. 2. Add eggs, oil, 5½ cups flour and salt and mix on medium speed, adding remaining flour as needed, until dough comes together and pulls away from the sides of the mixing bowl. Once dough collects around the dough hook, let rest for 3 minutes. 3. Resume kneading until smooth and elastic, about 3 minutes. Let rest for 1 minute, then transfer to a lightly floured work surface or silicone mat. 4. Divide dough into equal (4-ounce) balls and place on a greased cafeteria tray or baking sheet. Lightly grease the tops and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 3-4 hours, up to 24 hours. 5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush with egg wash, then top with sesame seeds, if desired. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden brown.

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BREAKING BREAD

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BREAKING BREAD

Fluffy Pita Yield: 10 pitas

By: Shifra Klein

There is nothing that rounds out Israeli comfort food quite like a fresh fluffy pita. We value restaurants that always have fresh pita on hand, whether outsourced or made in house. We knew we had to create our own version for when the mood strikes. 1½ 1

cups lukewarm water, divided tablespoon instant or active-dry yeast 2½ ablespoons sugar, divided 500 grams (about 3¾ cups) bread flour 1 tablespoon olive oil 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1. Mix ½ cup water, yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar and set aside to foam, about 15 minutes. 2. Add flour, yeast mixture, remaining water, olive oil and remaining sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Mix on low speed until combined, then add salt. Once dough collects around the dough hook, cover and let rest for 3-5 minutes. 3. Resume kneading until smooth and elastic, 8-10 minutes. Transfer dough to a greased bowl, cover and let rise until doubled in size. 4. Preheat oven to 500°F. With floured hands, divide dough into equal (85gram) portions and place on a greased cafeteria tray or baking sheet. Lightly grease the tops and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let rest at room temperature for 15-20 minutes. 5. Line a metal baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. On a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, roll the portions of dough into flat circles (not too thick, otherwise the dough will tear and pita won’t puff up). 6. Working in batches (about 3-4 at a time), bake pitas on the baking sheet for 5-7 minutes. Transfer to a 9x13inch pan or second baking sheet and cover with a clean kitchen towel to seal in moisture. Repeat with remaining dough.

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TRENDS

5 ONLINE ORDERING One convenient outcome of COVID was that many restaurants upgraded their online ordering systems out of necessity. Until the stay-athome sanctions, restaurants were not motivated to invest in website overhaul. However, once online ordering became more popular, it allowed restaurants to stay in business even when they were closed for indoor dining; we are still reaping the benefits and many restaurants even order curbside delivery for convenient pickup. Something to consider — while many food delivery services like UberEats, GrubHub and Seamless are often available at local restaurants, take the extra step to contact the restaurant and find out if you can order from the restaurant directly. This will eliminate added costs for both yourself and the restaurant.

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RESTAURANT QUALITY AT HOME

WAGYU STYLE BEEF , truffles and gourmet jams are just a few items that, for a long time, were only available to restaurants, caterers and chefs “with connections.” As the palate of the kosher consumer continues to expand, there is a growing interest to think — and taste — outside the box. Due to increased resources and time at home during the pandemic, home cooks have honed their skills and become experts in the culinary arts, including at-home charcuterie and sourdough baking. As a result, companies and services have blossomed to bring quality, harder-to-source ingredients directly to kosher consumers, which has been especially exciting for those who live outside of the tri-state area, where access to gourmet ingredients and obscure cuts of meat is more readily available. KOSH ,

a new online marketplace spearheaded by our friend and acclaimed chef Yos Schwartz, has the single goal of bringing gourmet products and premium meats direct to consumers from their own farm. Sourcing products directly from the producers allows Kosh to offer incredibly unique items that don’t always make it to market. After years of attending Kosher Fest, we’ve been repeatedly surprised when a product we thought had so much potential never hits supermarket shelves. As small as the kosher market is (comparatively), the market for gourmet kosher products is even smaller, which means distributors have to weigh the pros and cons of large-scale supermarket distribution for each new item.

Duck Breast with Raspberry Mostarda Serves: 8

By: Chef Yos Schwartz

The sweet and savory qualities of the raspberry mostarda lend perfectly to the flavor of the duck breast. Mostarda is a classic Italian condiment made from fruit and mustard and is typically served alongside meat or as an accompaniment on a charcuterie or cheese board. Blake Hill Preserves Raspberry Mostarda, which is certified kosher by OU, is available on kosh. com (along with the duck breast), but our homemade (shortcut) version follows as well. 3 1½ ¾ 1

duck breasts teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (10-ounce) jar Blake Hill Raspberry Mostarda or Shortcut Raspberry Mostarda (recipe follows)

1. Score the skin of the duck breasts, being sure not to go all the way through to the flesh. Season with salt and pepper, then rub generously with raspberry mostarda. Transfer to a Ziploc bag and let marinate in the fridge for 6 hours and up to overnight. 2. Let duck breasts come to room temperature for 1 hour. 3. Place duck breasts, skin side down, in a cold cast iron pan or heavy-duty skillet. Turn on heat to mediumhigh and cook for 12-15 minutes, until fat renders and skin is crisp. Flip duck, lower heat and cook for 2-5 minutes. Let rest for 8 minutes before serving. S H O RTC U T R AS P B E R RY M OSTA R DA

Mix 1 cup raspberry jam, ⅓ cup whole grain Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon vinegar and 2 teaspoons honey.

Having decades of experience cooking for kosher consumers, Chef Yos Schwartz has true intuition into what chefs and gourmet cooks are looking for and sources ingredients that he once only dreamed would be available to industry chefs like himself. Specialty jams, cheeses, Wagyustyle steaks and high-quality fish are just some of the gourmet items available from Kosh. For their launch party, which took place at a loft in the Tribeca area of New York City, Chef Yos teamed up with meat aficionado Bosh Boshnack to create simple party bites showcasing Kosh’s offerings. Some new brands, such as Marble & Grain, were highlighted; the approach in the food offered speaks to Kosh’s mission and philosophy of “better ingredients, better outcomes.” Here we highlighted some of our favorite bites from the launch party, with most of the ingredients available on their website, kosh.com. JANUARY 2022

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Tuna Saku with Tomatillo Jalapeño Jam Serves: 8

By: Chef Yos Schwartz

This is another easy and fun dish that can be thrown together at the last minute for a party. Tuna saku is a special cut of tuna available on kosh.com or from your local fishmonger. It comes as a brick versus the traditional tuna steaks, which allows you to cut perfectly even slices. Traditional tuna steaks work as well. 1 ½ ½ ¼ ½ 1

(1-pound) block tuna saku teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon garlic powder cup mixed toasted black and white sesame seeds tablespoon grapeseed oil Water crackers, for serving Blake Hill Tomatillo Jalapeño Savory Jam, for serving

1. Slice the tuna saku in half lengthwise. Season with salt, pepper and garlic powder, then press into the sesame seeds on all sides. 2. Heat grapeseed oil in a skillet over high heat. Sear tuna for 1-2 minutes per long side and 15 seconds per short side. Transfer to a plate to cool, then slice. 3. Serve on crackers with jam.

2. Cauliflower is a popular starter in most kosher restaurants today, whether roasted, fried or battered. People can’t seem to get enough of it and for good reason — even carnivores delight in its blank canvas quality, taking on whatever flavors it’s paired with. 70

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CAULIFLOWER Lenny's Cauliflower Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

We love the cauliflower at Lenny’s Casita in Los Angeles — a flavor explosion of herbaceous tahini, sweet and tart craisins, toasted spiced nuts and tangy silan. This is our version. 2

2 1½ ½

(24-ounce) bags frozen cauliflower (or 2 heads fresh cauliflower) tablespoons olive oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ ¼ ⅓ ½ ⅓

teaspoon ground turmeric Green Tahini (recipe follows) cup silan cup Chimichurri (page 76) cup chopped candied pecans cup dried cranberries or cherries

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange cauliflower on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets and toss with oil, salt, pepper and turmeric. Roast for 30 minutes. 2. Spread tahini on a platter. Top with roasted cauliflower, then drizzle with silan and chimichurri. Top with pecans and dried cranberries. www.fleishigs.com

TRENDS

Green Tahini Yield: 2 cups

Pulse 2 garlic cloves, ½ cup fresh parsley, ½ cup fresh cilantro, 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon ground cumin and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper in a food processor. Add 1 cup tahini paste and ¼ cup lemon juice. With the motor running, gradually drizzle in ¾ cup water and mix, adding more water, as needed, until creamy.

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3 FINE DINING OR PLAYING IT SAFE WHEN IT COMES to fine dining, there is nothing like the classic steakhouse model. Chef Moshe Wendel, owner of former acclaimed Brooklyn restaurant Pardes, explained that executing a creative, avant-garde menu is not very sustainable when it comes to profits. While some do it better than others, there are standard dishes on most steakhouse menus and for good reason — sliders, flatbreads, gnocchi, carpaccio or tartare, steaks, sushi and burgers are good sells. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. We appreciate the restaurants that take these classics up a notch with fine details, such as Chef Joey Paulino’s tuna pizzette from Wall Street Grill.

Tuna Pizzette

cups grapeseed oil, for frying

Serves: 4

flour tortillas

Spicy Mayo (recipe follows)

(8-ounce) sushi-grade tuna steaks, thinly sliced

3. Drizzle spicy mayo over tortillas, then top with sliced tuna and avocado. Garnish with daikon cress and black truffle pâté, if

avocado, thinly sliced

desired.

The tuna pizzette at Wall Street Grill is finished with truffle essence, lending a subtle and delicious flavor to the otherwise simple tuna. We love the Black Truffle Pâté from La Rustichella, which has a more pronounced flavor (and texture) than truffle oil. It is certified kosher by OU and available on Amazon.

Daikon cress, for garnish

Black truffle pâté (see headnote), optional

1. Heat oil in a pot or Dutch oven over

E D I TO R'S N OT E : Opt for smaller tortillas,

medium-high heat. Deep fry tortillas for 2-3

such as Mission 6-inch flour tortillas (certi-

minutes, until crisp and golden. Transfer to

fied kosher by CRC).

a paper towel-lined plate to cool.

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2. Once cool enough to handle, but still warm, cut fried tortillas into quarters.

Spicy Mayo Yield: 1¼ cups

Mix 1 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons Sriracha, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. www.fleishigs.com

TRENDS

COCKTAILS ARE HAVING A MOMENT

MANY KOSHER RESTAURANTS have recently improved and expanded their alcohol offerings with modern bars and specialty cocktail menus to match. The Smoked Sour at Barnea Bistro (NYC) is a unique combination of bourbon, chamomile, fresh lemon juice, cane syrup, apple-wood smoke and bitters that delivers not only a perfectly balanced and refreshing drink, but a show as well — it’s served under a smoke-filled glass cloche. The Bazooka Joe at the brand new Salt Steakhouse (Long Branch, NJ) combines bubble gum-flavored arak, fresh lime juice and cranberry juice, resulting in a beautiful ombré effect. Soho Asian Bar & Grill (Aventura, FL), Wall Street Grill (NYC), Shiloh’s Steakhouse (Los Angeles, CA), Noi Due Carne (NYC) and Doma Land + Sea (Cedarhurst, NY) are more examples of restaurants dedicating time and efforts to this growing trend.

5 TABLESIDE SERVICE SOME RESTAURANTS are embracing tableside service to add a fun element to their dining offerings. Tabernacle, one of the latest kosher steakhouses to open its doors in NYC, has a few tableside experiences, including Caesar Salad, Hot Pot and Steak in Hay, which have become very popular among diners. Reserve Cut (also in NYC) offers some tableside services as well, including their most expensive steak, which is wheeled to the table on a special cart and seared tableside. They also offer hot stones to sear thin slices of beef, making the experience fun and interactive.

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EXPANDED FOCUS ON DESSERTS

Mandarin Shortbread Eclair with Earl Grey Pastry Cream and Grapefruit Curd Serves: 4

By: Chef Aviva Friedman

FO R T H E M A N DA R I N S H O RT B R E A D:

1 5

cup all-purpose flour tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature, cubed ⅓ cup sugar 1 egg 1 tablespoon full-fat coconut milk 2 teaspoons mandarin orange zest ¼ teaspoon kosher salt FO R T H E E A R L G R E Y PAST RY C R E A M :

2 4 4 ½ 5 ¼

cups full-fat coconut milk bags earl grey tea egg yolks cup sugar tablespoons cornstarch teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E G R A P E F RU I T C U R D:

⅔ Zest 8 1 ¼ 2 ¼ ½

cup grapefruit juice of 1 grapefruit egg yolks cup sugar cup cornstarch tablespoons lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature, cubed

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GONE ARE THE days where your only dessert options in a steakhouse are chocolate lava cake, apple cobbler and an assortment of sorbets and ice creams. Recently, restaurants have been rethinking their dessert menu and dedicating resources so that it matches the dinner menu and overall ambiance of the restaurant. Some standout experiences are the desserts at restaurants like Rothschild TLV (NYC), such as the “breakfast in bed” with carrot cake, coconut panna cotta, mango yolk and biscuit “bacon,” cleverly resembling a plate of breakfast; the chocolate experience at Alenbi Kitchen (Brooklyn, NY); and the house Napoleon with basil mojito compressed watermelon at Lamppost Bistro Bar & Lounge (Pine Beach, NJ). These desserts are all made with high-quality ingredients, have complex flavors and showcase interesting elements. The plating is top notch, of course. We invited Aviva Friedman (@gourmandatlarge), one of the best kosher private chefs, to our test kitchen to share a fine dining dessert experience. What she created was phenomenal and exemplifies what we deem “worth it.”

BAS I L T U I L L E :

Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking

65 15 40 10

continuously, for another two minutes,

grams extra-virgin olive oil grams basil grams water grams all-purpose flour Pinch kosher salt

until thickened. Strain into a bowl through a fine mesh strainer, then transfer to a piping bag immediately. Let cool in the fridge.

FO R S E RV I N G :

6. For the grapefruit curd, whisk all ingre-

½ 2

dients, aside from the butter, in a small

cup toasted pistachios, crushed mandarin oranges, segmented

1. For the shortbread, fold ingredients in a bowl until just combined. Chill in the freezer for 1 hour. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out dough between 2 pieces of parchment to ¼-inch thickness. Remove the top piece of parchment paper and transfer the dough, with the bottom piece of parchment paper, to a baking sheet. Bake for 8-10 minutes. Cut into desired shapes while shortbread is still warm.

saucepan. Once combined, add cubed butter and whisk over medium heat until tiny bubbles form. Cook for 2 minutes, whisking continuously, until thickened. Strain into a bowl through a fine mesh strainer, then transfer to a piping bag immediately. Let cool in the fridge. 7. For the basil tuille, blend ingredients together in a high-powered blender. Let sit for 15 minutes, then strain into a bowl through a fine-mesh sieve. Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add small

3. For the pastry cream, heat coconut milk in a saucepan until tiny bubbles form around the edges. Add tea bags and steep for 20 minutes.

spoonfuls of batter to the pan and cook

4. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and salt. When the tea is finished steeping, gently squeeze the bags into the milk, making sure not to rip them.

and grapefruit curd on a mandarin short-

5. While whisking continuously, slowly temper the eggs by adding some of the warm coconut milk into the egg mixture. Pour the whole mixture back into the saucepan and set over medium heat.

until moisture has evaporated. Transfer to paper towels. 8. To serve, pipe earl grey pastry cream bread cookie, then repeat with two more layers of cookies, cream and curd. 9. Peel and segment the mandarin oranges, then peel away the thin skins, exposing the flesh. Break into smaller pieces. Garnish dessert with basil tuille, crushed pistachios and mandarin segments. www.fleishigs.com

TRENDS

INCREASED PRICES INFLATION, SUPPLY CHAIN issues and workforce shortages have contributed to the recent increase in prices in most industries, causing restaurants to increase their prices all around. Therefore, it is important to keep this in mind before going out to eat — and don’t take it out on the waiters or restaurant staff! (See more in our Food Crawl [page 34] and How to Order [page 100] guides.)

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OVER THE PAST two years, a few hit restaurants have expanded and the concept of kosher restaurants becoming chains is quite exciting. Chimichurri Charcoal Kitchen, a fast-casual restaurant centered around Portuguese-style charcoal chicken, first opened in Cedarhurst, NY in 2015 and has become so popular that it attracts many customers who do not keep kosher or even realize it’s a kosher joint. The menu is relatively small and known for charcoal and fried chicken, a stellar array of sides and rice bowls. The food is always fresh and wholesome, family-friendly and executed extremely efficiently. Once the concept proved to be wildly successful, owner Tzvi Ben Yosef decided to expand to other areas on Long Island, including Garden City and Oceanside. Franchise opportunities are available. In that same vein, Izzy’s Smokehouse has revolutionized the kosher barbecue scene with a spot in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, specializing in authentic wood-smoked brisket, ribs and chicken. Izzy expanded to the Upper West Side and just opened a third location in North Miami Beach. In the last issue we wrote all about Mama Kitchen who opened a second location in Queens, NY after the success of their Crown Heights location. Other notable restaurants with multiple locations include Foozo and Bash (the same concept by the same owners), specializing in artisan pizza. Dixie BBQ (also from the same owners as Foozo and Bash), a restaurant all about burgers and fried chicken has three locations — Miami, FL; Hollywood, FL; and Brooklyn, NY. Chickies is a fast food joint that started in Teaneck, NJ. They are known for their family friendly meals, chicken sandwiches, and fried chicken buckets. Their famous sauces were so popular that they are now available in kosher supermarkets nationwide! After the success of their original location, Chickies expanded with kiosks in Mall of America in Minnesota and Six Flags Great Adventure in New Jersey. They recently opened a sprawling location in American Dream Mall in New Jersey and their newest location in Cedarhurst, NY. Fuego, located in North Miami Beach, is currently building a second location in Cedarhurst, NY, set to open December 2022. While still under wraps, the Cedarhurst, NY hotspot Cork & Slice (from restaurateur brothers Boris and Ed Safaniev, who also own Doma and Streats will likely expand as well. While these restaurants expanded organically once they saw success with their concepts, Patis Bakery was initially designed to have multiple locations. The flagship location is housed in a huge facility that produces large quantities of bread, pastries, chocolate and ice cream to distribute to all their locations. They currently have two locations in Manhattan, two in Brooklyn, two in New Jersey and their newest one on Long Island, in the Five Towns. There are restaurants that have found success with multiple locations for decades (popular Chinese restaurant Chosen Island, located in Lawrence, NY, with its sister location, Chosen Garden, in Forest Hills, Queens; and Colbeh, a Persian restaurant with locations in Manhattan, Roslyn and Great Neck) and have likely paved the way as newer, trendier restaurants take the plunge into new markets.

GROWTH OF CHAIN RESTAURANTS

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Portuguese Rice Bowl Serves: 6

Chimichurri Charcoal Chicken (see above) is known for their Portuguese rice bowls. The contrast of ingredients — both cold and hot — and textures — creamy, savory and spicy — is a magical combination. Rice bowls, also the perfect vehicle for leftovers, are not hard to make and, once the components are prepared, come together in no time. N OT E : This is a great way to utilize leftover chicken or even store bought rotisserie chicken.

3 ½ 1 1 ½

(8-ounce) package yellow rice, cooked according to package directions cooked skinless, boneless chicken breasts, diced cup sliced roasted red peppers large avocado, cubed (16-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed Pan-Roasted Corn (recipe follows) Pico de Gallo (recipe follows) cup Chimichurri (recipe follows)

Arrange rice in bowls and top with chicken, peppers, avocado, black beans, corn and pico de gallo. Drizzle with chimichurri.

Pan-Roasted Corn Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 (7-ounce) cans of corn, drained, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon sugar and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Sauté for 10-15 minutes, until slightly golden brown. Serve warm.

Chimichurri Yield: 1½ cups

Mix 1 cup chopped fresh parsley, ¼ cup finely diced red onion, ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, juice and zest of 1 lemon, ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes and ½ teaspoon kosher salt.

Pico de Gallo Yield: 1 cup

Combine 2 diced beefsteak tomatoes, 1 small diced red onion, ½ cup chopped fresh parsley and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. www.fleishigs.com

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The Greeky Serves: 8

Aside from the array of artisan pizzas at Foozo in North Miami Beach, their classic Greek salad is elevated with roasted sweet potatoes and artichokes. We knew we had to recreate it. N OT E : The new vegan feta from Trader Joe’s has transformed our salads and works perfectly here.

5 1½ 2 1 2 4 1 1 ½ 1

large sweet potato, peeled and diced tablespoons oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided cups frozen artichoke hearts, defrosted and quartered small eggplant, diced heads romaine lettuce, chopped cups mixed greens cup cherry tomatoes cup diced cucumbers cup black olives small red onion, diced Non-dairy feta cheese (such as Trader Joe’s vegan feta) Creamy Balsamic Dressing (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss sweet potatoes with 1 tablespoon oil and ½ teaspoon salt on a baking sheet and roast for 35 minutes. 2. Toss artichoke hearts and eggplant with remaining ¼ cup oil and 1 teaspoon salt on a baking sheet and roast for 25 minutes. 3. Arrange lettuce and mixed greens in a bowl and top with roasted vegetables, tomatoes, cucumbers, black olives, red onions and feta cheese. Toss with dressing.

Creamy Balsamic Dressing Yield: 1 cup

Mix ⅓ cup balsamic vinegar, 3 tablespoons mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons honey, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 clove crushed garlic, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

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Izzy’s Sweet Potato Serves: 4

This recipe is inspired by the sweet potatoes at Izzy’s Smokehouse, something you may not expect out of a barbecue joint. Feel free to customize the sweet potatoes to your preferences.

4 ½ 3 3 2

sweet potatoes cup chopped pecans tablespoons brown sugar tablespoons maple syrup tablespoons non-dairy butter

¼ 1 ½

substitute teaspoon sea salt teaspoon cinnamon, optional teaspoon vanilla extract, optional Pinch of cayenne pepper, optional

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Place sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and bake for 40-50 minutes, until fork tender. Alternatively, microwave on high heat for 12 minutes, turning halfway. 2. Meanwhile, toast pecans in a dry

sauté pan over medium heat for 3-4 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer to a plate. Add brown sugar, maple syrup and non-dairy butter to the pan and cook until melted and bubbly. Add salt and seasonings of choice — cinnamon, vanilla and cayenne pepper. Turn off heat and add pecans; toss to coat. Set aside. 3. Make a slit across the top of each cooked sweet potato. Fluff it to open, then add pecan mixture. Serve immediately.

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OUTDOOR DINING THERE IS SOMETHING unique and refreshing about “al fresco” dining (dining in open air), weather permitting, of course — an experience that used to be somewhat limited in kosher dining. However, when indoor dining was banned in many cities due to COVID-19, restaurants had no choice but to adapt and expand their outdoor dining options in order to survive.

Many restaurants were creative in how they achieved this, including adding heaters and other elements to extend the dining season through colder months, and some restaurants actually benefited from outdoor spaces that were larger than their indoor accommodations.

ONLINE ORDERING

10 80

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ONE CONVENIENT OUTCOME of COVID was that many restaurants upgraded their online ordering systems out of necessity. Until the stay-at-home sanctions, restaurants were not motivated to invest in website overhaul. However, once online ordering became more popular, it allowed restaurants to stay in business even when they were closed for indoor dining; we are still reaping the benefits and many restaurants even order curbside delivery for convenient pickup. Something to consider — while many food delivery services like UberEats, GrubHub and Seamless are often available at local restaurants, take the extra step to contact the restaurant and find out if you can order from the restaurant directly. This will eliminate added costs for both yourself and the restaurant. www.fleishigs.com

SUPERMARKET EATS

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SUPERMARKET EATS

there is one thing we’ve learned about the restaurant industry these past two years, it’s how restaurateurs can be savvy, adaptable and creative to meet the practical challenges in serving good, fresh food to their communities. But outside of the kosher Meccas of New York, Miami, and Israel, creativity and ingenuity have always been essential to keeping a kosher restaurant alive and thriving. In smaller Jewish communities, which lack the crowds needed to fill those seats night after night, restaurant owners have to think outside the box to keep their eateries profitable — whether that means appealing to a non-kosher-observant clientele, partnering with other Jewish institutions such as the local JCC, or sometimes, forgoing the traditional restaurant space for a takeout spot located inside the local supermarket. What these supermarket restaurants lack in ambiance and service, they can make up for in accessibility, affordability and the ability to delight customers with something delicious and unexpected. Often, seating is limited to a few simple tables in front of the deli counter. Some of these eateries offer unique cuisine or creative, chefinspired dishes. More often, they simply provide a kosher bite to eat for the traveler, party host or busy family.

CHAI PEKING KROGER: ATLANTA, GA

TUCKED INTO AN ordinary all-American Kroger in an ordinary all-American shopping center in suburban Atlanta, Georgia, Chai Peking is a neighborhood institution. For over 21 years, Chai Peking has been serving classic Chinese takeout dishes to the local community. Despite a tiny dedicated space measuring only 500 square feet, the restaurant offers both a steam table buffet as well as made-to-order wok dishes, with a robust menu to rival any full-size Chinese restaurant, from General Tso’s and sesame chicken to udon noodles and egg rolls.

SHOP DELIGHT GREAT NECK, NY

T H I S F U L L-S E RV I C E grocery store directly across from the Great Neck train station stocks everything from produce and Sadaf specialty spices to a full bakery. However, they are best known for their Persian takeout counter. At the deli, Persian-style marinated chicken and beef kebabs are lined up in neat rows, ready to be grilled to order. At

the bakery, sangak, a traditional Persian sourdough flatbread, is piled high next to the baguettes and challahs. You can even pick up Persian staples like sweet carrot rice and the thick, hearty beansand-greens soup known as ash reshteh. The deli also offers more typical kosher supermarket fare like wraps and sushi, but for a more unique experience, the Persian dishes are a must. EAST SIDE KOSHER DELI DENVER, CO

DENVER, COLORADO IS a top US travel destination, but the small Jewish community makes a full-size kosher restaurant impractical, even with the seasonal influx of tourists. East Side Kosher Deli fills that gap with an all-inone supermarket, butcher shop, deli and restaurant. Unlike most supermarket restaurants, East Side does offer a full seating area — convenient for tourists who don’t want to eat in their hotel rooms. Guests can opt for a grab-andgo meal of standard deli-counter fare or sit down for a proper entrée served on china — a burger, salad or even a steak. And while a kosher deli deep in the JANUARY 2022

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mountains might not seem like the best place to order authentic Mexican cuisine, customers insist that the sizzling fajitas here are, in fact, the pro order. Above all, visitors rave about the friendly and helpful service — after all, there’s nothing like a friendly smile and a hot plate of food when you’re far from home. KOSHER PALATE DALLAS, TX

WHILE MOST OF the other eateries on this list are more restaurant-within-supermarket, Kosher Palate is a more equal split between the two. The store packs a full grocery selection, wine section, classic deli counter, catering department and sit-down dinner restaurant into a relatively compact space in a strip mall. Wisely, the team keeps the menu streamlined and focused on local specialties, especially barbecue. Visitors won’t want to miss the authentic smoked Texas-style barbecue, including brisket, short ribs and smoked chicken. Kosher Palate also dispatches wrapped kosher meals to the many convention centers and corporate headquarters in the area, a boon to the busy kosher business traveler.

Moo Shu Chicken Serves: 4

When looking for feedback, a few Atlanta locals recommended the moo shu chicken (among other dishes) at Chai Peking and it did not disappoint. Our editor Elisheva ordered the moo shu chicken at Chosen Island in Lawrence, NY while planning this issue at a work lunch. While she grew up ordering this popular dish at the famed Chinese restaurant, it was actually my first time experiencing the swift tableside service of the fluffy tortillas, tangy hoisin sauce and steaming hot chicken-vegetable mixture coming together into perfect bundles. Both moo shu experiences, casual and more upscale, were wonderful in their own right. FOR THE MOO SHU CHICKEN:

LENNY’S CASITA LOS ANGELES, CA

LENNY’S IS THE ultimate success story — out of the supermarket, onto the street. Lenny’s Casita first launched as a takeout spot within LA supermarket Western Kosher, serving Mexican street food. (Sister eatery Lenny’s Bazaar offered Israeli food right next door.) With the restaurants’ popularity growing and restaurant dining finally reopening post-pandemic shutdowns, Chef Lenny Nour decided it was time to leave Western Kosher and make the leap into a full-service restaurant, combining the two concepts into something all his own. Lenny’s Casita opened as a standalone eatery in June 2021, offering elevated casual dining in a style that Chef Lenny refers to as “MexiCali” — a flavor-forward mashup of Mexican, Mediterranean and Californian cuisine. This isn’t your typical fast food burrito spot — notice the confit beef cheek in the tacos, the birria made with a 24-hour veal broth, the house-made salsas and the sesame-crusted flatbread. But Chef Lenny hasn’t forgotten his humble takeout roots — the signature Crunchwrap remains one of the most popular dishes on the menu and most nights, the ambiance is more of a party than a subdued fine-dining establishment. Lenny’s may no longer be in a supermarket, but he is still securing the bag. 84

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4 ¼ 3 2 2

2 2 2 3

pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, thinly sliced teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water teaspoons toasted sesame oil, divided teaspoon ground white pepper tablespoons hoisin sauce, plus more for serving tablespoon teriyaki sauce teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce tablespoons hot water tablespoons oil, divided cloves garlic, minced cups shredded Napa cabbage package shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced tablespoon mirin or rice vinegar scallions, split and thinly sliced

FO R T H E C H I N E S E PA N CA K E S :

1½ cups non-dairy milk 1 egg 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon garlic powder 1. For the moo shu chicken, mix

chicken with cornstarch slurry, 2 teaspoons sesame oil and white pepper until well incorporated. Set aside for 15 minutes. 2. Mix hoisin sauce, teriyaki sauce, soy sauce, remaining 2 teaspoons sesame oil and hot water. Set aside. 3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Sear chicken until golden, about 3 minutes, then flip and sear for another 2 minutes, until mostly cooked through, but still pink. Transfer to a plate. 4. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the wok. Add garlic, cabbage and shiitake mushrooms and stir fry over high heat for 1 minute. Add mirin and stir fry for another 20 seconds. 5. Add reserved sauce mixture and seared chicken. Toss to coat and cook for 3-5 minutes, until incorporated and chicken is fully cooked. Mix in the scallions. 6. For the Chinese pancakes, whisk milk, egg, chives, salt and garlic. Add flour and mix until just combined. 7. Grease an 8-inch skillet with non-stick cooking spray over medium heat. Pour 2½ tablespoons of batter into the pan and swirl to cover the base. Cook for 2-3 minutes until light golden. Flip and cook for another minute. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining batter. 8. To serve, spread hoisin sauce on pancakes and top with stir fry mixture. O P T I O N A L : Some restaurants add egg, similar to fried rice, to their moo shu. It isn’t necessary, but adds another layer of texture and even more protein. Once the vegetables are stir fried after step 4, push them to the sides of the pan, making a well in the center. Add 1 tablespoon oil. Once hot, add 3 beaten eggs and mix in the well to scramble. Once mostly scrambled, incorporate with the rest of the stir fry. Proceed with step 5. www.fleishigs.com

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Lenny’s Crunchwrap Serves: 4

This recipe is inspired by the most popular menu item at Lenny’s Casita in Los Angeles, CA. It’s definitely not light, but has everything you love from a taco in a crunchy package. N OT E : If you can’t find pre-made crunchy tostada shells, make your own by frying flour tortillas in hot oil until golden or use tortilla chips.

2 1 1 4 4 1½ 4 ½ 2 1 1

tablespoons olive oil, divided pound ground beef (1.25-ounce) package taco seasoning (12-inch) flour tortillas (8-inch) flour tortillas cups non-dairy cheddar cheese slices, chopped crunchy tostada shells cup non-dairy sour cream cups shredded romaine lettuce Roma tomato, diced cup shredded non-dairy cheese

1. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add ground beef and brown for 3-5 minutes, breaking up the beef as it cooks. Stir in taco seasoning, then drain excess fat. Set aside. 2. Heat tortillas according to package instructions. 3. Working one at a time, divide ground beef mixture into the center of each 12inch tortilla. Top with cheddar cheese and tostada shell. Spread sour cream in an even layer over each tostada shell, then top with lettuce, tomato and shredded cheese. 4. Top each with an 8-inch tortilla. Fold the edges of the 12-inch tortilla up and over the center. Continue working it over the tortilla, folding as tightly as possible. 5. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet. Sear crunchwrap, seam-side down, until underside is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip and sear on the other side, another 1-2 minutes. Serve immediately.

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HERZOG SPECIAL

HERZOG FOREBEARERS

HERZOG ACACIA BARREL

RESERVE CABERNET

RESERVE MERLOT

Z I N F A N D E L — N A P A V A L L E Y,

SAUVIGNON BLANC —

SAUVIGNON —

— ALEXANDER

2018:

L A K E C O U N T Y, 2 0 2 0 :

V A L H A L L V I N E YA R D ,

V A L L E Y, S O N O M A

S O N O M A C O U N T Y,

C O U N T Y, 2 0 1 8 :

2 0 1 7:

This vintage marks the return of the Alexander Valley merlot more than 15 years after it was last produced. This is an elegant and juicy merlot, with aromas of red and blue fruit and subtle herbaceous notes.

This series pays a tribute to the previous generations of the Herzog family. The Forebearers wines are the first made from grapes grown in the Herzog Ridge Vineyard in Napa, which the Herzog family purchased in 2018. While it was relatively recently discovered that it is the same variety as the Italian Primitivo, it has its own personality. This exuberant, powerful and fruit-forward wine shows notes of strawberry jam, vanilla, licorice, cinnamon and roasted herbs.

Some wines are fermented and/or aged in oak barrels, which imparts additional aroma, complexity, texture and structure. With the new exclusive Acacia Barrel series, Herzog experimented with a different type of wood and what it adds to the wine. The result is a round, yet refreshing and fuller-bodied sauvignon blanc that pairs nicely with saucy veal or salmon dishes.

The cabernet sauvignon grapes from this exclusive Sonoma vineyard yield an exceptionally rich and layered wine, with notes of cigar box and vanilla. It is an excellent option to pair with smoked brisket or a rack of ribs.

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HERZOG FOREBEARERS

BAROQUE

CABERNET SAUVIGNON,

M A L B E C, 2 0 1 7:

N A P A V A L L E Y, 2 0 1 8 :

This delicious malbec from Paso Robles is fleshy and laden with notes of blackberries and spices. It would pair nicely with meat lasagna or a juicy burger with creamy avocado and grilled mushrooms.

The 2018 vintage was of especially good quality throughout California. This wine is deep and elegant, with notes of black currants, black cherries, cedar and licorice. This beautiful wine is a natural companion to a perfect medium-rare rib steak, simply seasoned with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

HERZOG HOUSE WINES BY: GABRIEL GELLER

The topic of kosher restaurants and wine is somewhat sensitive. The main kosher certifying agencies that supervise restaurants in the United States have strict guidelines for the wines that are allowed to be served in those establishments, such as only allowing mevushal wines to be served. Mevushal literally means boiled or cooked, but the methods and technologies used nowadays, namely flash pasteurization and flash-détente, have little noticeable impact on the quality of the wine. Popular wineries such as Herzog, Shiloh and Hagafen have built great reputations and gathered countless 90+ ratings and awards for their wines, which for the most part, happen to be mevushal. The winemaking team at Herzog Wine Cellars has even developed a special selection of wines for the winery’s famous Tierra Sur restaurant in Oxnard, CA. While these wines are not available at traditional liquor stores, they can be purchased directly from the winery and some are served at select kosher restaurants throughout the country and abroad.

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Dangerously good food.

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BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: CHEF MINA NEWMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SHIMI KUTNER

NIKKEI CUISINE HAS taken the world by storm over the last decade, and while some may be familiar with the classic ceviche you might find on a Nikkei menu, most diners know little about the rich history that has shaped the cuisine. The story begins back in the late 1800s, when Japanese immigrants began crossing the Pacific in search of prosperity and the chance to provide a better future for their children. Once Peru became the first country in South America to accept Japanese immigrants, local businesses began to bring this new labor force into the country. Before long, many of the Japanese immigrants were flourishing, building families, homes and communities, as well as successful businesses.

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SURVIVAL OFTEN MEANS doing what you do best, and for the Japanese, this meant taking advantage of their culinary skills to open their own restaurants, applying classic techniques from their home country to the ingredients that were available to them in Peru. While Japanese cuisine highlights the natural flavors of very fresh ingredients, Peruvian dishes tend to use stronger flavors with a different set of cooking techniques. Nikkei cuisine developed over many years as Japanese chefs began incorporating local Peruvian ingredients — tropical fruits, corn, quinoa, aji amarillo pepper — into their cooking, alongside the classic Japanese ingredients like miso, ginger, soy and wasabi, with fish as the most common unifying ingredient. Many chefs point to the modern ceviche as the quintessential example of the Nikkei style, showcasing raw fish that is only lightly marinated (in classic Japanese fashion), but with Peruvian ingredients like corvina fish, sweet potato and corn. 92

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CHEF MINA NEWMAN , executive chef of the Nikkei restaurant Sen Sakana, was born of Peruvian and Russian Jewish descent and raised with a strong love for Peruvian culture, which was felt strongly in her childhood home in both language and food. This included many classic ingredients from both Peruvian and Japanese cuisines, but Chef Mina would never call it a fusion. “Fusion sounds like a trend — like you just took two random things and decided to mix them together one day on a whim. Nikkei culture is more like an evolution or an adaptation. Over the course of many years, the immigrants made the food their own and eventually, something new and magical developed,” she explains.

Chef Mina was proud to bring this culture to New York through the menu at Sen Sakana (which was nonkosher at the time, but has recently become kosher), showcasing the cuisine that was created with the migration of Japanese people to Peru. The name Sen Sakana — Japanese for “one thousand fish” — refers to the 1,000 different species that are said to swim in the waters off Peru. Chef Mina’s popular ceviche incorporated fish cured in fresh lime juice, Peruvian chili peppers and most importantly, leche de tigre (“tiger's milk,” the citrus-based, spicy marinade used to cure fish in classic Peruvian ceviche), before adding some dashi for a touch of that Japanese umami element. www.fleishigs.com

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While people loved the food at Sen Sakana, running a restaurant did not come without its own struggles. “There’s just so much competition in New York City,” says Michael Rosenblum, the restaurant’s manager. “If someone has even one mediocre experience, there are a thousand other places they can go.” While Sen Sakana owner Allen Wartski often played around with the idea of making the restaurant kosher, others on the team were not quite as enthusiastic about the idea. “Sometimes it felt like we just couldn’t catch a break; going kosher when you’re already struggling seemed like a pretty risky endeavor,” adds Michael. Besides, the transformation would require closing down the restaurant for what could be several months while the kitchen was koshered, the menu revamped and the staff retrained — a tough call for anyone to make. “Then the pandemic hit and hit the restaurant industry especially hard,” recalls Michael. “We thought that might really be the end, but Allen was decisive, sure that we could use the opportunity to transform.” While restaurant dining was unavailable, Chef Mina immersed herself in the task of transforming the menu into a kosher one that still retained all of the flavors and culture that define Nikkei cuisine. “We know what the dishes tasted like before, and we need to live up to those quality standards,” says Michael. With the same chef and the same vision, many of the dishes (like their signature quinoa-crusted chicken breast) remain the same as before, while others needed some simple swaps to become kosher (like the fried rice, which now features sous vide spare rib instead of pork). Some of the essential ingredients, like yuzu (an East Asian citrus fruit) and bonito (flakes of dried, smoked and fermented fish), were not readily available in the kosher market at the time. A classic Japanese ingredient used as a topping and to make dashi (a fish and seaweed-based broth),

Nikkei culture is more like an evolution or an adaptation.

bonito has been one of the most elusive ingredients for the kosher home cook. Chef Mina spent weeks sourcing these items to preserve the authenticity of her dishes, ultimately locating a rabbi in Peru who could work with a local purveyor to supply bonito with a kosher certification, something that, to this day, is only available at Sen Sakana. “It took a lot of work and a lot of belief, but we reopened as a kosher

space and emerged stronger than ever,” says Michael. “Sometimes we have double or triple the number of people who were here before. We have the regulars who were here before we were kosher and barely notice that anything has changed and we also have kosher consumers who travel from Brooklyn, Westchester and New Jersey to come dine with us. I didn’t realize this at first, but we are providing something that didn’t exist before and that has made us an attraction worth traveling for.” JANUARY 2022

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Negroni San Yield: 1 cocktail

ON A CHILLY November evening, a small group of Fleishigs guests gathered in Sen Sakana’s intimate party room for a sampling of the menu. The night began with the most simple and yet the most noteworthy dish of the evening — the Japanese cucumber, set over aji amarillo (a spicy yellow Peruvian pepper) sauce with a touch of sesame oil and fried crispy quinoa. While many restaurants might finish a dish with a touch of freshly ground pepper tableside, Chef Mina made her way around the table grinding toasted sesame seeds over the cucumber for the perfect finishing touch (see page 12 for more). “This dish was a revelation!” commented food blogger Shushy Turin. “I especially enjoyed the innovation because it’s hard to take something so simple and elevate it and I feel like they really did that here.” Lifestyle blogger and podcast host Rivki Rabinowitz wholeheartedly agreed. “I can’t be the only one who’s always craving a late night cold, crunchy snack and — don’t laugh! — for me that’s often cucumbers with a generous twist of freshly cracked pepper and salt; so this was far and away my favorite dish.” It wouldn’t be a journey through Nikkei cuisine without the classic ceviche and this one did not disappoint. “The ceviche was my favorite dish on the menu,” said food blogger and cookbook author

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Add 1 ounce fig liqueur, ½ ounce sake and ½ ounce Italian red bitter aperitivo (such as Vincenzi Capasso) to a rocks glass and stir for 15-20 seconds. Use hickory wood and a torch to smoke out the cocktail, if desired. Add a large ice cube and garnish with an orange peel.

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Lychee Nikkei Yield: 1 cocktail

Add 1½ ounces mandarin vodka, ¾ ounce lychee juice, ¾ ounce simple syrup, ¾ ounce egg whites and ½ ounce yuzu juice to a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously, then add ice and shake again. Double strain into a coupe glass and garnish with 3 drops of Angostura bitters.

Ben Siman Tov, Levana Kirschenbaum, Allen Wartski

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Chanie Apfelbaum. “It was so bright and fresh, acidic in the best way possible.” The lightly torched salmon was topped with cancha (Peruvian crispy corn), grilled corn, salsa criolla (a classic topping of quick pickled onions with cilantro), shiso leaf and yuzu leche de tigre. “This may have been the first time I’ve had ceviche that was so soft and tender and still so flavorful,” added recipe developer Adina Schlass. “I don’t know how they cured this fish, but they nailed it.” Chef Mina returned to the table, this time to sprinkle a generous helping of bonito flakes over the next dish — fried tofu over scallion eggplant sauce. “Fried tofu is obviously up my alley,” commented Fleishigs editor Elisheva Taitz, “but the star of the show here is definitely the bonito, which tastes just like the sea.” The night continued with a sushi and sashimi platter, featuring unexpected Peruvian touches like crispy quinoa, aji limo (another variety of Peruvian hot pepper), purple olive purée and sweet potato sauce. Brisket dumplings with ponzu dip, slow cooked veal breast tostaditas and steak tartare in crispy taco-like shells rounded out the next course, followed by entrées like the signature quinoa-crusted

chicken breast, lomo saltado (a classic Peruvian stir fry) and spare rib fried rice topped with a sunny side up egg. While some of these dishes may be unfamiliar to the average kosher consumer, they won’t be for long. “They are truly honoring both the Japanese and Peruvian influences in Nikkei cuisine,” commented Shushy Turin. “It’s amazing to see how the kosher food market is expanding, and I appreciate those who play a role in moving that forward.” Fleishigs editor-in-chief Shifra Klein took a moment to make a toast and thank San Sakana owner Allen for bringing such a beautiful and innovative restaurant to the kosher market, when all logic may have pointed otherwise. “It’s truly incredible,” reflects Michael, the restaurant’s manager. “We have the opportunity to wake up people’s taste buds and introduce them to a cuisine they have never had before, and I am so honored to be a part of that.”

Adina Schlass, Rivki Rabinowitz

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

Elisheva Taitz, Shushy Turin & Chana Z. Weiss Shlomo Klein, Ben Siman Tov

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TORCHED SALMON NIKKEI CEVICHE Serves: 2

¼ 2 2

E D I TO R’S N OT E S :

• For an easy garnish, use Terra or Heaven & Earth Veggie Sticks or crushed sweet potato chips. • Corn nuts snack can be found at Trader Joe’s, certified kosher by OU. • Shiso is a Japanese herb, similar to mint, that can be found in Asian markets. If you can’t find shiso, use basil or mint (or omit it altogether). ¼

1 1

pound skinless salmon filet, cut into 1-inch chunks (reserve a small amount of scraps for the leche de tigre recipe, see below) tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro tablespoon finely diced red jalapeño

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2 2

Yuzu Leche de Tigre (recipe follows), divided cup thinly sliced red onions shiso leaves tablespoons sweet corn, sliced off the cob tablespoons Peruvian corn nuts or corn nuts snack (see head note) tablespoons crispy sweet potato sticks (see head note)

1. Using a kitchen torch, lightly char salmon on all sides, then toss with cilantro and jalapeño. Pour half of the leche de tigre over the salmon and let marinate for 5 minutes. 2. Arrange shiso leaves on a plate and top with salmon mixture. Add remaining leche de tigre and onions to the bowl that the salmon was in; toss to coat. Arrange onions on top of the salmon. 3. Garnish with corn, corn nuts and crispy sweet potato sticks.

Yuzu Leche de Tigre This vibrant, acidic sauce is the secret to the best ceviche you’ll ever have. Omit the seeds of the jalapeño to control the heat. For best results, serve as cold as possible. Blend ½ cup yuzu juice (or a combination of lime and lemon juice), ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 small jalapeño, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 garlic clove, 1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger and ⅛ cup salmon scraps until smooth.

DID YOU EVER THINK MAYBE THERE IS MORE TO LIFE THAN BEING REALLY REALLY REALLY RIDICULOUSLY TASTY? -ANCIENT ZOOLANDIAN PROVERB www.fleishigs.com

NEW & INNOVATIVE RESTAURANTS BY: DANI KLEIN With the recent opening of Sen Sakana in NYC, which brings Nikkei cuisine to the kosher market (read more on page 90), I wanted to dig a little deeper into some new kosher restaurants that are innovating and bringing unique experiences to their respective communities.

KOMA SUSHI (BROOKLYN, NY) AND NAAMAH SUSHI (BOCA RATON, FL) While sushi is nothing new, having dedicated restaurants that elevate sushi to the same quality as that in Japan is unique for the kosher community. These two new sushi restaurants, both opened in 2021, offer just that — high-quality omakase experiences. For those not familiar, omakase is a Japanese term that refers to a unique sushi experience, where the customer leaves it up to the chef to select and serve seasonal specialties. Omakase is an essential experience for the sushi and raw fish connoisseur.

KOMA SUSHI 1618 Avenue M, Brooklyn, NY Kosher Certification: Vaad Hakashrus of Flatbush

The bakery, restaurant and beer brewery offers diners freshly brewed ale, beautiful sourdough breads, pastries, pizzas and more. It’s the only place outside of Israel where you can eat kosher food at a brewery. 518 W. Willow Street, Long Beach, CA Kosher Certification: Kosher LA (Cholov Stam)

TUK TUK (GOLDERS GREEN, LONDON) Tuk Tuk is a pan-Asian restaurant and London’s first kosher cocktail bar, which opened in early 2021 and serves Vietnamese, Indian and Thai food — underserved cuisines in the kosher world. Its custom cocktail menu and fun environment offers residents and tourists a fun and unique kosher dining experience. 115 Golders Green Rd, London, England Kosher Certification: KF

SPHERA KITCHEN & BAR (RECHOVOT, ISRAEL) Sphera is a brand new gourmet meat restaurant in Rehovot. The restaurant is staffed by a Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef who trained at Noma, a world-famous restaurant in Copenhagen. The restaurant spent 7 million shekels (about 2.2M USD) on the concept and design to ensure the dining experience would enhance diners’ senses. Despite being open for only a short time, Sphera is already considered one of the country's top kosher restaurants. The menu at Sphera is broken down into three categories — farm, garden and ocean, offering upscale dishes for every palate. The restaurant also offers a full bar with an extensive selection of cocktails and top Israeli wines. Rechov Hamada 18, Rechovot, Israel Kosher Certification: Rabbanut Rechovot

NAAMAH SUSHI

MORE NEW RESTAURANT OPENINGS:

8177 Glades Road #20, Boca Raton, FL Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami

Tabernacle Steakhouse (New York, NY): New York’s newest steakhouse brings high-end experiences to the kosher fine dining scene.

ASIATIKO (AVENTURA, FL)

315 W. 36th Street New York, NY 10018 Kosher Certification: OU

The newly opened Asiatiko is a one-of-a-kind, beautifully designed robatayaki Japanese restaurant, which refers to dishes that are slow-grilled over hot charcoal. This is typically done either in front of diners or by the diners themselves at the table. The restaurant is truly upscale in every way and reservations are hard to secure, so book well in advance. 2906 NE 207th Street, Aventura, FL Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami

Lamppost Bistro (Pine Beach, NJ): Designed by Scoop & Co., the ambience is truly one of a kind with a stellar menu to match. 276 Atlantic City Boulevard Pine Beach, NJ 08741 Kosher Certification: Tartikov Kashrus Flysh (Lakewood, NJ): An affordable, family-friendly fast-food spot with delicious food. 32 Cross Street Lakewood, NJ 08701 Kosher Certification: KCL

LOX (NYC)

Nununu (Sunny Isles Beach, FL): This fast casual restaurant delivers classic Israeli cuisine with a twist.

While this is not a new restaurant, LOX flies under the radar even for most New Yorkers because of its location inside the Museum of Jewish Heritage, at the very tip of Manhattan. Museum visitors can enjoy a delicious lunch or early dinner at this unique spot, which overlooks the New York Harbor, but you don’t have to tour the museum to eat there. LOX specializes in elevating old school Jewish appetizing dishes from Eastern Europe, such as smoked salmon. Its distinctive lox selections include dill and vodka lox, pastrami lox, sake ginger lox, grapefruit and gin lox and double smoked lox. This is not your Zeidy’s smoked fish!

17066-B Collins Ave, Sunny Isles, FL 33160 Kosher Certification: ORB Vico’s Grill (Cancun, MEX): Enjoy some Mexican classics at this new upscale steakhouse in the heart of Cancun, a favorite vacation hotspot. Blvrd Kukulcan km 8.5, Hotel Zone, Cancun, Quintana Roo, 77500 Kosher Certification: KMD Greenwich & Delancey (Greenwich, CT): From the owners of Lox (see above) comes another classic Jewish delicatessen, bringing old-school style favorites to trendy Greenwich. 59 E. Putnam Avenue Cos Cob, CT 06807 Kosher Certification: OU

Museum of Jewish Heritage, 2nd Floor 38 Battery Place, New York, NY Kosher certification: OU

LONG BEACH BEER LAB (LONG BEACH, CA) Long Beach Beer Lab obtained hashgacha in the early days of the pandemic in 2020, which was a boon to the Southern California Jewish community.

Follow along on Dani’s trips and kosher restaurant excursions on Instagram (@YeahThatsKosher) and on his wellresearched site YeahThatsKosher.com. In addition to managing YeahThatsKosher, Dani currently leads social media strategy and marketing for a large Manhattan-based advertising agency.

How to order. BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ

EVERYONE WHO KNOWS me knows that going out to eat is one of my favorite pastimes, even if it’s a quick bite to eat at a casual spot. Call it my “self care,” if you will. I’ve loved eating out ever since my earliest restaurant memory, celebrating my 6-year-old birthday with my parents at our local Chinese restaurant, Chosen Island (located in Lawrence, NY), where I have since dined countless times with my family and children. For some, eating out is a frequent occurrence, but for others, it can be overwhelming simply because of uncertainty in what or how to order. Here are some of my tips:

Review the menu online.

Before going out to eat, try to conceptualize what you are leaning towards, especially if you tend to be a picky eater. This way, if there are changes on the actual menu once you arrive, you will likely already have a backup plan.

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Get the chef’s tasting menu.

If it’s a special occasion, choose a restaurant that offers a chef’s tasting menu, which is exciting, albeit pricey, and offers the opportunity to try off-menu items that you may not have otherwise tried. You have to be trusting — usually the menu is the chef ’s choice and you may not even know what’s coming next. At the very least, always ask if there are specials — sometimes servers forget to mention them, especially if it’s a busy night, and you wouldn’t want to miss out on at least hearing about something new.

Appetizers plus.

Ordering appetizers in lieu of a main dish gives you the opportunity to try more things and, depending on what you order, the price may turn out to be similar in the end. Opt for appetizers that vary in texture, flavor profile and type so that you get a true variety (i.e. don’t order lamb ribs AND beef ribs). This is my preferred way of ordering wherever I go. Don’t ignore the “sides” section — sometimes that’s where the best kept secrets are and the prices are always less than appetizers.

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HOW TO ORDER

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Of course trying new things is fun, but if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. If you repeat a restaurant, don’t feel pressured to try something new if you were satisfied with a prior experience. Stick with what the restaurant does well and embrace having your favorite restaurants and your favorite menu items. On that note, don’t feel pressured to try a trendy new restaurant, especially if there are factors like babysitting and distance involved. I suggest waiting a month or two after a new restaurant opens to give them time to iron out the inevitable growing pains that every restaurant goes through.

BYOB

Advocate.

Be an advocate for yourself or your children when going out. In regards to allergies or serious dietary restrictions, don’t assume waiters know enough and make sure to be very specific. Everyone deserves to eat out in a safe environment and restaurants are usually willing to accommodate. You may feel more comfortable requesting to speak with a manager in these situations. Don’t forget that preferences are different than allergies, so while you can ask the server to omit something (i.e. jalapeño or cilantro garnish), be reasonable with your request and don’t be upset (or shoot the messenger) if the restaurant does not allow substitutions or omissions. Don’t be afraid to ask for a taste of something simple, such as a soup — something that is obviously already prepared. Most servers (or sommeliers/bartenders) will even offer a taste of a wine before ordering.

Prix fixe menus.

If eating out on a budget, look for restaurants that have prix fixe menus or dinner specials. You’d be surprised by the upscale steakhouses that have these options. Opt for dishes that provide more bang for your buck in terms of portion size, such as burgers or flatbreads, which can be very filling, as opposed to a carpaccio or tartare that, while very tasty, typically offer a very small portion for the price.

Some restaurants allow you to bring your own bottle of closed wine (they may charge a corking fee — inquire before). This not only saves you money, but guarantees that you will be happy with the wine choice. On a similar token, if celebrating a birthday with a crowd, call the restaurant to ask if they have an option to order a cake or a larger, communal dessert that they may need advance notice for.

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I ALSO CHATTED with a few avid restaurant diners, Jerry Weinberger and Jack Shelby, to complete the ultimate primer for a successful night out:

Jack Shelby @shelbysgottaeat

Jerry Weinberger @thegroovyfoodie

Be adventurous and order outside of your comfort zone. Order things you can’t make yourself at home! When ordering steak, duck, veal or any of the restaurant’s specials, order it to the chef ’s preference. The guy making the falafel at my local joint once asked me what I wanted on it and I told him to prepare it however he wanted. He was in heaven! Letting the chef lead usually results in the best experiences. I order in waves. I start with fish, then move on to meat appetizers, then mains and then desserts. The trick is not to fill up on bread! Obviously you have to have fortitude for this (luckily I do) and you get a full picture of the restaurant. Just make sure to specify to your server the order of how you want everything to come out.

Make mental notes of what looks good on neighboring tables. Be friendly, speak with the waiter and find out how long they have been working at the restaurant — the more experience they have, the more I trust their input. I appreciate and value consistency, which is something that many restaurants struggle with. For instance, David’s Restaurant on Kings Highway in Brooklyn, NY has been around for decades — and for good reason! When it comes to dessert, I only order if it’s homemade. Many restaurants buy mass-produced desserts and I happily pass on those.

Shlomo Klein’s Bonus Tips: If you are going out based on people’s recommendations, know that everyone has different taste preferences, so go into it with a grain of salt. Ultimately, listen to recommendations from those you trust.

Elisheva Taitz is a wife and mother to three children, full-time Payroll/HR Manager by day, food writer, recipe developer and Fleishigs editor by night. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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Don't play it safe. If you are in the position to spend the money, don’t hold back — order something new to make the restaurant experience even more worthwhile. www.fleishigs.com

The following restaurant guide serves as a collaborative space and contains advertorial material. All kosher certifications listed are as of press time; consult with a local kosher authority to determine if the kosher status is of your standards. Fleishigs Magazine takes no responsibility for the changing of kosher certification; always check an establishment's active kosher status before dining.

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MILK 'N HONEY 3457 Bathurst Street North York, ON M6A 2C5 (416) 789-7651 milknhoney.ca Instagram: @milknhoneyto Kosher Certification: COR

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

MORNING GLORY SALAD

Mixed greens, grilled pineapple, grapefruit, mango, avocado, goat cheese THE POWER BOWL

Mixed greens, quinoa, chickpeas, roasted beets, radishes, blueberries, almonds, hemp hearts CHEESE BLINTZES MEDITERRANEAN WRAP

Grilled veggies, sautéed onions, pesto and cheese

Lightly breaded eggplant, garlic and zucchini tossed in a tomato basil sauce

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PENNE AMATRICIANA

Milk ‘N Honey has been a mainstay in the Toronto Jewish community for decades, providing delicious dairy fare in a relaxed, family-friendly environment. Milk ‘N Honey continues to serve the community by catering and hosting private events, sharing their home-away-from-home on elegant new premises.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

PRIME 10 15600 W. 10 Mile Road Southfield, MI 48075 (248) 327-7344 prime10detroit.com Instagram: @prime_10detroit Kosher Certification: K-COR Council of Orthodox Rabbis of Greater Detroit

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

MOROCCAN FLATBREAD

Green peppers, red onions, tomatoes and sliced mushrooms sautéed in a house Moroccan spice blend served over warm naan bread LOADED FRIES

Pulled BBQ brisket over crispy fries with garlic aioli and green onions SOUTHWEST QUINOA SALAD

White quinoa, grape tomatoes, corn, black beans, green peppers, scallions and creamy avocado dressing TOMAHAWK STEAK

Bone-in 32-ounce ribeye CHICKEN MARSALA EDITOR'S NOTE

Prime10 is an upscale, yet family-friendly steakhouse that offers delicious, fresh food prepared with love. Beyond the delicious menu, which includes an array of appetizers, salads, house-cut steaks and sides, Prime10 also prides itself in catering and hosting intimate events in their private party room.

Pan-seared chicken cutlets in a sherry wine mushroom sauce served over garlic mashed potatoes

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17 RESTAURANT 1751 Alton Road Miami Beach, FL 33139 (305) 672-0565 17restaurant.com Instagram: @17restaurant Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami (KM)

M ENU HI G HLI GH TS SUSHI ICHIBAN TUNA OR SALMON

Fresh chopped fish, avocado, masago, scallions, shallots, spicy mayo, sesame oil and ponzu sauce SEARED SALMON DELUXE

Seared salmon, avocado, scallions, imitation crab salad, cream cheese and cilantro topped with spicy lemon sauce MATIAS ROLL

Imitation crab tempura, cream cheese, avocado, imitation crab salad and scallions topped with spicy tuna, crunchy onions, sweet sauce and spicy mayo ENTRÉES WHOLE BRANZINO MISO-GLAZED SEA BASS

CHOCOTORTA CAKE MOLTEN CHOCOLATE LAVA CAKE

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DESSERTS

17 Restaurant and Sushi Bar is a modern dairy restaurant in the trendy area of South Beach. With a full sushi menu, classic pizzas, pastas, fish and panini, 17 has something for everyone. The menu has options from various cuisines, such as Mexican (quesadillas), Israeli (bourekas), Italian (arancini), Peruvian (ceviche), Asian (tataki) and more.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

Glatt A La Carte 5123 18th Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11204 (718) 438-6675 glattalacarte.com Instagram: @glattalacarte Kosher Certification: Tartikov Kashrus (Rabbi Yechiel Babad)

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

BBQ T-REX SHORT RIBS

Boneless short ribs with honey hickory BBQ sauce, fire-roasted balsamic peppers served over sweet potato purée COWBOY PRIME RIB CHOP

32-ounce bone-in rib, served with crispy seasoned fried onions BEEF MARROW BONES

Split and roasted marrow bones, served with parsley relish, roasted garlic, Himalayan salt and garlic bread COFFEE-RUBBED BEEF RIBS

Four ribs served with bourbon BBQ sauce EDITOR'S NOTE

Glatt A La Carte has been around for over twenty years — a legendary restaurant that has managed to maintain a great reputation, solid service and delicious food. There is a friendly, welcoming feeling at this popular Brooklyn steakhouse, which has a wonderful space for family gatherings and events such as sheva brachos. The pulled beef tacos, chicken lollipops and sliders are a great way to start the meal and the chimichurri skirt steak is a menu favorite. If dining with a crowd, inquire about their family-style desserts.

SAUTÉED SWEETBREADS

Sweetbreads sautéed with red wine and wild mushroom sauce

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TRAVEL

WALL STREET GRILL 128 Pearl Street New York, NY 10005 (212) 635-5757 wallstreetgrill.com Instagram: @wallstreetgrill Kosher Certification: OU

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

CRISPY THAI BEEF

Marinated and fried strips of flat iron steak, ginger-apricot sauce and bourbon-Sriracha BBQ sauce DUCK DUMPLINGS

Hon shimeji mushrooms, bean sprouts, aromatic broth PEARL STREET STEAK

24-ounce steak with grilled spring onions, chimichurri and charred tomatoes and onions GENERAL KAME’S CRISPY CHICKEN

Buffalo aioli, guacamole and teriyaki glaze BBQ LAMB RIBLETS

Char siu marinade, carrots,

WSG ROLL

Hamachi, torched Atlantic salmon, cucumber, truffle snow and umami glaze

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radishes and herbs

Wall Street Grill is known for consistency of service and high-quality culinary experiences. The glass-enclosed rooftop atrium and outdoor garden area are designed to create an upscale, yet organic environment where diners can feel at home. Unique, handcrafted cocktails complete the luxe menu, bringing an elevated cuisine to the kosher world.

www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

MEAT NY 123 Kingston Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11213 (516) 888-1730 meatny.com Instagram: @meatny Kosher Certification: OU

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

TOMATO SALAD

Fresh oregano, soft-boiled egg, spring onions and roasted tomato CHARCUTERIE BOARD

Bresaola with porcini powder, smoked brisket, house sausage, beef prosciutto, pickled vegetables and house mustard VEAL SWEETBREADS

Crispy lentils, charcoalroasted potatoes, selected herbs, demi-glace DRY-AGED RIBEYE

EDITOR'S NOTE

After five years from conception to opening, Meat NY is breaking barriers with their trendy, innovative menu, upscale decor and unparalleled ambiance and service. The unique appetizers, as well as the custom cocktails and full wine list delight guests, but the true showstoppers are Meat NY’s famous dry- and wet-aged steaks, aged in their in-house aging rooms. Meat NY provides a dining experience unlike any other.

Fingerling potatoes, house spicy ketchup, cherry tomato confit, oyster mushrooms and bone marrow

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

JUS BY JULIE 1306 Avenue M Brooklyn, NY 11230 502 Avenue U Brooklyn, NY 11223 523 Central Avenue Cedarhurst, NY 11516 1454 Queen Anne Road Teaneck, NJ 07666 4712 13th Avenue Boro Park, NY 11219 313 Main Street Allenhurst, NJ 07711 (seasonal) 700 Cedarbridge Avenue Lakewood, NJ 08701 — opening Spring 2022 616 Ocean Avenue Long Branch, NJ 07740 — opening Spring 2022 jusbyjulie.com Instagram: @jusbyjulie Kosher Certification: OU

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

KALE SALADS

AÇAÍ BOWLS WAFFLES

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PANINIS

Jus by Julie is a grab-and-go breakfast and lunch spot that is popular for their fresh kale salads, açaí bowls, paninis and juices. What began with juice cleanses has now expanded into multiple locations with full menus, including coffee and tea. With a wide array of wholesome, healthy snacks, such as chocolate bark and kale chips, Jus by Julie is a one-stop-shop.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

STREATS 128 Cedarhurst Avenue Cedarhurst, NY 11516 (516) 837-9684 streatsfooddrink.com Instagram: @streatsfooddrink Kosher Certification: Vaad of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

STREATS BURGER

Special blend beef, house made "cheddar," pickles, tomato, caramelized onions, lettuce and Streats sauce on a toasted bun with a side of French fries LAMB BOWL

Ground lamb kebab, rice, Israeli salad, creamy dill “tzatziki” sauce POPCORN CHICKEN

Fried boneless chicken tossed in sweet chili or buffalo sauce, garnished with scallions and served with a side of Mexican coleslaw FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH

Battered chicken breast, lettuce, tomato, Mexican slaw, pickles and Streats sauce served on a toasted bun THE REUBEN EDITOR'S NOTE

Streats, a fast-casual spot in a successful group of restaurants from restaurateurs Boris and Ed Safaniev, is inspired by street food favorites from around the world. With the busy family in mind looking for something more than classic fast food, the menu is full of freshly ground burgers, inventive bowls and fun sides all cooked to order.

House made pastrami, sauerkraut, Streats sauce, "swiss cheese" and pickles served between two slices of toasted seeded rye bread

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

Doma Land + Sea 490 Chestnut Street Cedarhurst, NY 11516 (516) 881-7712 domalandsea.com Instagram: @domalandandsea Kosher Certification: Vaad of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway

L A N D

S E A

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

BARBACOA BEEF TACOS

24-hour braised BBQ brisket, pickled onions, lime, cilantro, non-dairy sour cream and chili aioli served in fried corn tortillas PRIME TARTARE

Hand cut prime beef, shallots, caper berries, whole grain mustard and egg yolk served with grilled toast and mixed tableside CRUNCHY RICE CAKE

Sushi rice, fried to order, topped with spicy tuna, serrano peppers and a sweet glaze TOMAHAWK FOR TWO

42-ounce bone-in dry-aged steak, grilled to order on an Argentinean wood fire grill

Pan-seared tuna served over avocado mousse, papaya and cucumber slaw and ginger soy sauce

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EVERYTHING CRUSTED TUNA

Doma Land + Sea is a modern, upscale steakhouse in a successful group of restaurants from restaurateurs Boris and Ed Safaniev. At Doma, the finest prime meat meets the freshest fish. The open kitchen, wood-fired Argentinian grill and in-house dry aging room all add to the rustic ambiance and dining experience.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

Cork & Slice 477 Chestnut Street Cedarhurst, NY, 11516 (516) 837-7788 corkandslice.com Instagram: @corkandslice Kosher Certification: Vaad of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

BUCATINI PASTA

Wild mushrooms, spinach and house-made bucatini pasta in a creamy ricotta, Parmesan cheese sauce finished with truffle oil THE RUSSIAN PIZZA

Vodka tomato sauce, ricotta and fresh mozzarella cooked in a brick oven garnished with fresh basil YUCATAN FISH TACOS

Blackened sea bass, mango and green papaya slaw, microgreens, serrano crema and chili oil served in fried corn tortillas TUNA BLT

EDITOR'S NOTE

Cork & Slice, the first in a successful group of restaurants from restaurateurs Boris and Ed Safaniev, is inspired by a rustic Italian kitchen. Homemade pasta, wood-fired pizza and seasonal ingredients come together in a casual, family-friendly environment. The homemade cocktails and sangria round out the dining experience.

Ahi tuna, crispy salmon, avocado, lettuce, tomato, garlic aioli on country-style bread with a side of hand-cut fries AVOCADO TOAST

Avocado, runny eggs and field greens on multigrain toast

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SEN SAKANA 28 West 44th Street New York, NY 10036 (212) 221-9560 sensakana.com Instagram: @sensakana Kosher Certification: Dover Tov

M ENU HIGHL IGHTS CEVICHE NIKKEI

Torched salmon, Peruvian crispy corn, shiso, yuzu leche de tigre QUINOA-CRUSTED CHICKEN BREAST

Aji amarillo tartar sauce, purple potato salad and Japanese balsamic sweet and sour sauce LOMO SALTADO

Quick stir fried beef, tomatoes, onions, garlic soy sauce and crispy potatoes MAGURO TARTARE

Tuna, avocado, crispy quinoa, topped with tomato salsa, Peruvian aji limo ANDES YAMA

Kanikama, asparagus, oshiko, shiso, topped with salmon, beet purée, gooseberry and chive GREEN DRAGON

Kani tempura and cucumber topped with slivered avocado, crispy quinoa and Japanese sweet sauce

SEN SAKANA OMAKASE

Chef’s Selection: 4 pieces sushi, 8 pieces sashimi, tuna maki roll, Nikkei toppings

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GRANDE

Kani tempura and cucumber topped with spicy tuna, crispy quinoa and Korean chilli sauce

The first kosher Nikkei restaurant of its kind, the newly kosher Sen Sakana provides one of the most unique dining experiences in the kosher market today with its fusion of Peruvian and Japanese cuisines. Expansive sushi and sashimi offerings, unique appetizers (charred edamame with Peruvian crispy corn; Japanese cucumber with crispy quinoa and aji amarillo) and traditional Nikkei menu items (quinoa-crusted chicken breast; lomo saltado) make Sen Sakana nothing but average. Peruvian corn, bonito and leche de tigre are just some of the menu items unique to Sen Sakana. www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

SALT STEAKHOUSE 15 Morris Avenue Long Branch, NJ 07740 (732) 813-SALT (7258) thesaltsteakhouse.com Instagram: @thesaltsteakhouse Kosher Certification: JSOR

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

40-DAY DRY-AGED TOMAHAWK STEAK LAMB FLATBREAD

Baharat-spiced lamb, herb hummus, pignoli nuts, tomato, cumin aioli and mint BEEF CARPACCIO

Prime beef, mushrooms, pickled radishes, truffle and balsamic served with lavash crackers

EDITOR'S NOTE

Salt is an upscale steakhouse and lounge located in the trendy Pier Village neighborhood of Long Branch, NJ, the newest establishment in the Revolve Hospitality profile. The impeccably-designed restaurant boasts a beautiful bar, wood-fire oven and a full menu with an array of appetizers, salads, flatbreads and fish. The steaks are famously aged in their in-house aging fridge.

FISH N CHIPS

Battered Chilean sea bass with waffle fries and tartar sauce

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

Gruit Garden & Eatery 252 Empire Boulevard Brooklyn, NY 11225 (347) 846-0622 gruitbk.com Instagram: @gruitbk Kosher Certification: OK Kosher

M ENU HIGHL IGHTS

CORN DUMPLINGS CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE

Chicken liver parfait with blueberry agrodolce and coffee “dirt” GRUIT SIGNATURE BURGER GENERAL TSO CAULIFLOWER FIRE POPPER CHICKEN NUGGETS

Brined and seared duck breast, fermented blueberry, parsnip purée and sautéed mushrooms

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SEARED DUCK BREAST

Gruit, fondly named after the herb mixture used in the beer-making process, is a restaurant and beer garden that promotes good food, good drinks and good fun. The menu, curated by Chef Isaac Bernstein, consists of elevated comfort food meant to be enjoyed with the extensive wine, cocktail and beer list. Dine casually indoors or outdoors.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

IZZY’S SMOKEHOUSE MIAMI

UPPER WEST SIDE

Waterways Shoppes 3585 NE 207th Street Aventura, FL 33180

660 Amsterdam Avenue New York, NY 10025

(305) 690-7103

Kosher Certification: OK

Kosher Certification: ORB BROOKLYN

397 Troy Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11213

(347) 425-0524

izzyssmokehouse. com Instagram: @izzysbbq

(347) 425-0524 Kosher Certification: OK

M E NU H I GH L I G HTS DINOSAUR RIBS SMOKED SHORT RIBS BBQ BACK RIBS Back ribs smoked and glazed with house BBQ sauce TEXAS-STYLE SMOKED BRISKET Smoked brisket pulled apart and mixed with house BBQ sauce SMOKED BRISKET TACOS 18-hour smoked brisket in corn tortillas topped with fresh pico de gallo and horseradish mayo BURNT ENDS

EDITOR'S NOTE

Izzy’s Smokehouse, founded in Brooklyn by pitmaster Izzy Eidelman, has since expanded to Florida and the Upper West Side. Izzy’s brings a local twist to Southern barbecue, combining simple ingredients with quality meats to create a unique and casual experience.

Fatty brisket points, smoked twice, drenched in our house BBQ sauce SMOKED FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH Smoked fried chicken thigh served on toasted brioche with house hot sauce, horseradish mayo and pickle

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FIRESIDE 59 Route 59 Monsey, NY (located in the Town Square Mall) (845) 517-3570 firesidekosher.com Instagram: @firesidekosher Kosher Certification: Rabbi Benyumin Gruber

M ENU HIGHL IGHTS

MEAT PIZZA

Pan pizza, marinara, roasted mushrooms, sautéed onion, ground prime beef, smoked beef bits and maple aioli BBQ VEAL PIZZA

Braised BBQ pulled veal, marinara, sundried tomato, roasted mushroom, sautéed onion, egg yolk, garlic aioli and buffalo aioli PAN SEARED DUCK FINGERS

Rosé plum glaze, carrot purée, beet reduction, dehydrated blood orange and candied lime peel

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STEAKS

Fireside is best known for mouthwatering steaks. Using only USDA grade A prime beef, every cut is an exceptional experience, every time.

Fireside is a modern steakhouse with a sophisticated, warm and inviting ambiance. Beyond the appetizers, steaks and burgers, they are most known for their meat pizzas on homemade crust. With an extensive wine list and array of cocktails, Fireside is the place to be for a nice evening out. The newly expanded space and party rooms are perfect for hosting events or business meetings.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

Noi Due Café 491 Columbus Avenue New York, NY 10024 (212) 712-2222 x1 noiduecafe.com Instagram: @noiduecafe Kosher Certification: OK Kosher

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

EGGPLANT CARPACCIO

Pomegranate, silan, pistachio and feta STUFFED MUSHROOMS

Mozzarella, ricotta, feta, za’atar and marinara CHOP CHOP SALAD

Romaine, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, red bell pepper, parsley, za’atar, bread crumbs, feta, fresh lemon and extra-virgin olive oil SOLE FRANCESE

Lemon butter caper sauce, white wine, parsley, spaghetti and crispy almond parmigiano NONNA PIZZA

Rectangle pizza with marinara and mozzarella EDITOR'S NOTE

This dairy Italian restaurant is known for excellent service and quality of the food. With classic dishes like homemade pizzas, pastas and antipasti, Noi Due Café is a NYC mainstay for good reason. The extensive dessert and drink menus make Noi Due Café stand out.

PENNE ROSA ROSA

Creamy marinara sauce and parmigiano

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Noi Due Carne 141 West 69th Street New York, NY 10023 (212) 712-2222 x2 noiduecarne.com Instagram: @noiduecarne Kosher Certification: OK Kosher

M ENU HIGHL IGHTS

MOROCCAN CIGARS

Spiced ground beef with tahini ROMAN-STYLE BABY ARTICHOKES

Fried artichokes with caper aioli, lemon and sea salt LEBANESE FATTOUSH

Romaine, cucumbers, heirloom tomatoes, radishes, red onions, kalamata olives, za'atar pita chips and sumac red wine vinaigrette GNOCCHI DUCK CONFIT

Brown beech mushrooms and white truffle parsnips VEAL MARSALA

14-OUNCE USDA PRIME RIBEYE

Whole roasted garlic and roasted plum tomato

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Chiodini and shiitake mushrooms, rosemary and natural reduction

The sister restaurant to Noi Due Café, Noi Due Carne brings the same service and quality with an Italian-inspired steakhouse menu. Beyond the ambiance, the chicken liver pâté and Roman-style baby artichokes are best sellers. The steaks, burgers and homemade pastas are excellent choices and the homemade desserts end the meal on a perfect note.

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

Noi Due Pizza 143 West 69th Street New York, NY 10023 (212) 712-2222 x3 noiduepizza.com Instagram: @noiduepizzeria Kosher Certification: OK Kosher

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

TRUFFLE MUSHROOM RISOTTO BALLS MEDITERRANEAN CALZONE

Feta, mozzarella, green olives and za'atar ITALIANO SALAD

Mixed greens, red cabbage, carrots, pepperoncini, chickpeas, Sicilian oregano dressing MAKE YOUR OWN PIZZAS BAKED ZITI

Parmigiano, marinara, ricotta and mozzarella EDITOR'S NOTE

Noi Due Pizza offers both traditional and innovative dairy Italian fare with a Mediterranean twist in a casual, family-friendly setting. With appetizers like macaroni & cheese balls and truffle mushroom risotto balls, extensive pizza toppings and makeyour-own options, Noi Due Pizza is not your average pizza shop.

PIZZEPPOLE

Fried pizza dough, cinnamon and caramel sauce

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

TABERNACLE STEAKHOUSE 315 W. 36th St New York, NY 10018 (212) 933-7001 tabernaclesteakhouse.com Instagram: @tabernaclesteakhouse Kosher Certification: OU

M ENU HIGHL IGHTS

DRY-AGED RIBEYE

80-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye TUNA TARTARE

Tuna with avocado, ponzu and lavash AGNOLOTTI

House-made agnolotti with kabocha squash, fermented cashew, polenta, black tea broth PEKING DUCK

HOT POT

House-made buckwheat noodles, thinly sliced prime ribeye, enoki mushrooms, warm broth

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Freshly carved glazed duck served with pancakes, pickled vegetables and condiments

Tabernacle is New York City’s newest kosher steakhouse with a focus on dry-aged meats and unique entrées. Tabernacle elevates fine-dining to the highest degree with many hands-on tableside experiences for a unique dinner unlike any other.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MARRON BISTRO 948 Eglinton Ave W. Toronto, Ontario M6C 2C2 (416) 784-0128 marronbistro.com Instagram: @marronbistrotoronto Kosher Certification: COR

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

TAPAS BOARD

Veal empanadas, merguez tequenos, samosas, bone marrow, tomato, onion and jalapeño jams, liver pâté served with crostini, pickles and olives KOREAN BEEF BAO BUNS

Bao buns filled with pulled beef, sweet sauce and jalapeños BRANZINO

Fillet of branzino served with shishito peppers and sauce vierge NEBRASKAN RIBEYE

15-ounce dry-aged sous vide ribeye served with frites and market vegetables

EDITOR'S NOTE

Marron Bistro provides an exquisite and memorable fine-dining experience, elevating classic steakhouse fare for a full culinary adventure. Known for their dry-aged steaks that are cooked sous vide for precision and consistency, the attention to detail is reflected throughout the world-inspired menu. Marron redefines elegance with luxurious decor and contemporary furnishings.

HERB-CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB

Herb-crusted rack of lamb served with a delicious blueberry compote

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

TIERRA SUR 3201 Camino Del Sol Oxnard, CA 93030 (805) 983-1560 tierrasuratherzog.com Instagram: @tierrasur805 Facebook: @tierrasuratherzog Kosher Certification: OU

M ENU HIGHL IGHTS

SALMON TART

Lemon vinaigrette, vegan chive sour cream and horseradish BRAISED SHORT RIB

Purple potato mash, fried shishito peppers, bok choy, pickled mushrooms, kabocha squash and maple soy glaze 12-OUNCE BONELESS RIBEYE

EDITOR'S NOTE

Black truffle demi-glace, crispy potato salad, wax beans, mushrooms, onions and arugula

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Tierra Sur, located on the grounds of the Herzog Wine Cellars in picturesque Oxnard, California, is acclaimed by diners and critics alike as “a foodie paradise” (ZAGAT) that “defies expectations” (Gayot). With its “impeccable service” (Los Angeles Times), Tierra Sur is an elegant dining experience, specializing in New American fare. The team of chefs create bold and dynamic menus using seasonal ingredients sourced exclusively from local growers. Celebrate the extraordinary with food that is colorful, well-balanced and designed to elevate the palate and excite the senses.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

PRIME BISTRO 305 Central Avenue Lawrence, NY 11559 (516) 374-7772 prime-bistro.com Instagram: @primebistrolawrence Kosher Certification: Vaad of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway

PRIME BISTRO

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

TUNA BLACK TRUFFLE

Spicy tuna, avocado, microgreens FRESH GUACAMOLE

Made fresh tableside BEEF POTSTICKERS

Soy ginger glaze, spicy mayo, Wagyu beef PRIME STEAK SANDWICH

EDITOR'S NOTE

Prime Bistro is a classic American steakhouse that is typically bustling even on a weeknight. They are known for their tableside guacamole, perfectly cooked steaks, sushi and refreshing homemade cocktails. The decor is reminiscent of an old-world French bistro, offering a comforting (yet still upscale) overall ambiance and vibe.

USDA Prime 28-day dry-aged black angus beef, pesto sauce, caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms COWBOY STEAK

26-ounce bone-in dry-aged

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

YAPCHIK 1757 Madison Avenue Lakewood, NJ 08701 (732) 987-6800 yapchik.com Instagram: @yapchik1757 Kosher Certification: KCL

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CHILI BURGER

House-ground ½-pound prime beef on a bed of lettuce and tomato, topped with sautéed onions, beef chili and guacamole SKIRT STEAK SANDWICH

Sliced skirt steak in house sauce with lettuce, tomato and sautéed onions in a baguette. THE CHEF’S CHOICE BURGER

Dips, herring, liver, gala, kugels and prime cuts carving station (available on Thursdays and Fridays)

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House-ground ½-pound prime beef on a bed of lettuce and tomato topped with sautéed onions, schnitzel and grilled pastrami

Yapchik prides itself on the presentation of their unique sandwiches, hand-ground beef burgers, full open buffet and salad bar, making it not just another fast-food takeout spot. Their extensive Shabbos offerings, available on Thursdays and Fridays, truly sets Yapchik apart.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MAMA KITCHEN 7 Rochester Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11233 (718) 771-3038 Kosher Certification: CHK 67-25 Main Street Flushing, NY 11367 (347) 960-7194 Kosher Certification: Vaad of Queens (Beit Yosef) mamakitchenny.com Instagram: @mamakitchenny

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

APERITIF (MOROCCAN DIPS) HUMMUS

Famous creamy hummus topped with chickpeas, cumin and olive oil BURIK

Crispy cigar dough filled with mashed potatoes, scallions and egg served over tahini and harissa LACHMAJUN

Flatbread topped with spiced ground beef THE KEBAB PLATE

EDITOR'S NOTE

Mama Kitchen is run by a powerhouse couple who recently opened their second location in Queens, NY. With a passion for Mediterranean, Israeli and Moroccan cuisine and a focus on seasonal ingredients, Mama Kitchen’s menu is ever-evolving. The hummus is creamy, the Jerusalem bagel is fresh and fluffy and the lamb shank tagine is flavorful and tender. The menu, elevated comfort food, is all homemade and made with love.

Beef kebab, matbucha and roasted eggplant with flatbread SLOW-COOKED LAMB SHANK

Moroccan-spiced lamb shank served over homemade couscous

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MENDEL’S BACKYARD BBQ 9472 Harding Avenue Surfside, FL 33154 (305) 763-8818 backyardbbqmiami.com Instagram: @mendelsbackyardbbq Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami (KM)

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BRISKET TRUFFLE POUTINE

House-cut fries topped with smoked brisket and mushroom truffle gravy KC SMOKED HALF CHICKEN

Juicy smoked chicken with BBQ sauce on the side MENDEL’S WORLD FAMOUS BURNT ENDS

½-pound double smoked fatty tender brisket bites MENDEL’S CHAMPIONSHIP

BBQ baked beans, smoked beef and a touch of heat

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BEANS

One of Miami’s top smokehouses, Mendel’s Backyard BBQ, co-owned by awardwinning pitmaster Mendel Segal, never disappoints. With a rotating array of smoked items (from brisket, pastrami and lamb to chicken, duck and marrow), Backyard has something for everyone. Prepaid prix-fixe Shabbat dinner is also available, which is perfect for vacationers and locals alike.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

West Wing 12 Irving Place Woodmere, NY 11598 (516) 605-9464 Instagram: @westwingwoodmere Kosher Certification: Vaad of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

FAMOUS WEST WINGS

Fried chicken wings served with maple Sriracha BREAKFAST BURGER

7-ounce premium beef patty, candied lamb bacon, sautéed onions, mushrooms, sunny side up egg, truffle mayonnaise and pesto aioli WEST WING SALAD

Leafy greens, grape tomatoes, red onion, roasted corn, pastrami croutons, avocado, garlic confit and chef's special dressing THURSDAY NIGHT COMBO

EDITOR'S NOTE

West Wing is a fast food joint popular among locals for the delicious burgers, chicken fingers and wings. The food is fresh and the homemade sauces elevate any dish. West Wing is also known for their Thursday night Shabbos takeout with everything from cholent and yapchik to pastrami and potato kugel.

Beef chulent, kishke, potato kugel, got pastrami, jachnun, brown egg, coleslaw and pickles YEMENITE BEEF SOUP

Flanken, potatoes and hawaij

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MUR 310 Central Avenue Lawrence, New York 11559 (516) 260-6341 murcuisine.com Instagram: @mur.nyc Kosher Certification: Vaad of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway

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TUNA TARTARE

Chopped tuna, red onions, cilantro, sesame oil, Sriracha, lemon juice, avocado and balsamic reduction HOUSE SHAWARMA

Homemade hummus topped with spring chicken and lamb shawarma, sumac onions, mixed greens and green salsa BALAGAN

Open-flame lamb ribs with Mediterranean spices and teriyaki sauce SHORT RIB

Served with creamy mashed potatoes and sautéed seasonal vegetables in demi glace

Flash-fried cauliflower blossom with tahini, pine nuts, lemon, beetroot cream and crispy puffed quinoa

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CAULIFLOWER BLOSSOM

Mur, which stands for Modern Urban Restaurant, focuses on elevating Mediterranean and Israeli food to a fine-dining level. Mur presents their vision in a modern atmosphere with wood tones and industrial lighting, contributing to the warm ambiance. The vibe at Mur is always exciting and fun, embracing the “balagan” atmosphere, making it the ultimate place to celebrate birthdays and special occasions.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MS. DIXIE 21000 W. Dixie Highway Miami, FL 33180 (305) 933-3305 msdixiemiami.com Instagram: @msdixiemiam Kosher Certification: Rav Golowinski

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

CORN RIBS

Served with garlic herb oil and lime BLACKENED CABBAGE

Served with tahini and roasted almonds YAMS

Roasted sweet potatoes with chickpeas, date honey and tahini MS. DIXIE’S HUSBAND SANDWICH

Schnitzel, lettuce, tomato, red onion, honey mustard aioli, preserved lemon aioli BRISKET SANDWICH

Soft brisket, mixed greens, crispy onions and caramelized tomatoes dressed in homemade jalapeño mayonnaise EDITOR'S NOTE

Ms. Dixie is a casual sandwich shop that focuses on infusing Israeli touches into a fresh, simple menu. Aside from the delicious homemade buns, the variety of salads and array of fresh sauces, the Israeli-inspired appetizers make it stand out from other sandwich shops. Book Ms. Dixie’s “shuk table” family-style catering for your next casual event.

MALABI

Mediterranean panna cotta with rosewater, peanuts and halva

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

ALENBI KITCHEN 887 Nostrand Avenue New York, NY (347) 529-3739 alenbikitchen.com Instagram: @alenbikitchen Kosher Certification: OK

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DECONSTRUCTED FALAFEL

Fava bean, sumac onions, chickpea crumble, jalapeño, amba coulis, white tahini, cilantro and pita bread KRUVIT

Wood oven roasted cauliflower, beet tahini, Arabic salsa, za’atar and sumac JAFFA SASHIMI

Red tuna, bulgur herbs, dried apricot, green tahini, harissa oil, green s'chug, pickled cauliflower, basil glass chip and buckwheat popcorn

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LAMB ARAYES

Grilled pita stuffed with seasoned ground lamb served with charred vegetables, raw tahini, sweet harissa, amba and cilantro

Alenbi started in 2017 by owner and creative director Chef Juda Schlass (formerly of Hassid + Hipster) as an ode to his Israeli upbringing. Alenbi’s menu is finely curated with seasonal ingredients, resulting in a fine-dining experience with unique dishes. Between the decor, ambiance and music to the modern, upscale iterations on classic Israeli dishes, diners are instantly transported from Crown Heights to Israel.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

FUEGO 3861 NE 163rd Street North Miami Beach, FL 33160 (786) 520-4082 fuegobymana.com Instagram: @fuegobymana Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami (KM)

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

BEEF TARTARE

Thinly diced raw beef served with red onions, baby pickles, capers and radish topped with egg yolk and house Romesco sauce served with artisan ciabatta bread DIRTY NACHOS

Baked nachos topped with pulled brisket, meat chili, pico de gallo, guacamole, non-dairy sour cream, red onions, banana peppers, pickles and shredded lettuce LAMB BARBACOA FLATBREAD

Pulled lamb, diced jalapeños, pickled onions, harissa and salsa verde FUEGO RESERVE CUT EDITOR'S NOTE

Fuego is a steakhouse and smokehouse with delicious food in a fun, exciting atmosphere. They serve the classics — burgers and steaks — but their small plates, tacos, flatbreads and appetizers are the real winners, taking inspiration from around the world. The high-quality ingredients are fresh and seasonal. With the busy family in mind, all of the dishes on the menu are designed for sharing.

12-ounce aged ribeye, charcoalgrilled and served with a choice of house sauce

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

URBANA 1305-53 Street Brooklyn, NY 11219 (718) 438-4448 Kosher Certification: Tarnipol Beis Din Instagram: @urbana_ny

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SPINACH RICOTTA ROSETTES

Served in a rosa sauce ARTICHOKE PESTO GARGANELLI

Homemade garganelli, pesto, artichoke and toasted panko breadcrumbs PIZZA BIANCA

Whipped ricotta, mozzarella, baby bella mushrooms, garlic confit and basil pesto SPRING ROLLS

CHEESECAKE

Lime crème fraîche, shortbread crumbs and ganache du jour

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Filled with cheese, red onion, craisins and cinnamon served with silan and tahini

Urbana serves upscale dairy dishes in a charming, rustic space. The menu, which includes fresh sushi and crudo, handcrafted pastas, pizza, fish and more, focuses on elevated dairy that can’t be found at just any café. The specialty drinks, like the cheesecake milkshake, and desserts round out the menu.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

FIALKOFF’S fialkoffskosherpizza.com / fialkoffsexpress.com Instagram: @fialkoffs @fialkoffsexpress @fialkoffs_surfside

Long Island:

FIALKOFF’S LOCATIONS:

50 Doughty Boulevard (located in Seasons Express) Lawrence, NY 11559

250 East Broadway Monticello, NY 12701 (845) 794-3420

(516) 666-9900

Kosher Certification: Rabbi Binyomin Grober

700 West Broadway (located in Seasons Express) Woodmere, NY 11598

9463 Harding Avenue Surfside, FL 33154 — opening soon Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami (KM)

(516) 408-9771 Kosher Certification: Vaad of Five Towns & Far Rockaway Scarsdale, NY opening soon — and more!

FIALKOFF’S EXPRESS LOCATIONS:

Queens: 72-15 Kissena Boulevard (located in Aron’s Kissena Farms) Flushing, NY 11367 (718) 831-2894 Kosher Certification: Vaad of Queens

MEN U H I G HL I GHTS

REGULAR PIZZA (SLIGHTLY SPICY)

SWEET PIZZA (SLIGHTLY SWEET)

10+ SPECIALTY PIES

CALZONES

EGGPLANT PARMESAN

PASTAS

EDITOR'S NOTE

Fialkoff’s was established back in 1973, when Moshe and his family traveled from Israel determined to bring the finest, freshest, most flavorful kosher pizza to Monticello, NY. From the moment they first rolled the dough and spread the cheese, Fialkoff’s became a camp craze and a bungalow bonanza. People drove from far and near to sample the best pizza in town. Fialkoff’s has since expanded and opened express locations as well as a new modern standalone location in Surfside FL with more locations coming soon.

POTATO KNISHES

CALZONES

CHEESE PRETZELS

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

FIVE FIFTY RESTAURANT & SHOPPE 550 Central Avenue Cedarhurst, NY 11516 (516) 374-0550 fivefiftyny.com Instagram: @fivefiftyny Kosher Certification: Mehadrin of the Five Towns

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CHARCUTERIE BOARD

Jerky, bresaola, salami, duck, pastrami SMOKED DUCK GNOCCHI

Poached egg, mushrooms, paprika oil STICKY LAMB RIBLETS

Asian BBQ, parsley, sesame seeds HANGER STEAK

BRAISED SHORT RIB

Mashed potato, pomegranate reduction

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Chimichurri, cilantro aioli, cauliflower

Five Fifty is a steakhouse that brings the fine-dining experience of New York City to Long Island. The menu, which changes every so often based on the season, offers a wellbalanced variety of mouthwatering appetizers, steaks, fish and sides. The industrial, rustic decor and warm lighting instantly create a romantic, relaxed vibe. Five Fifty is also known for their robust Shabbos takeout, with an array of dips, appetizers, fish, mains, challah, mazza, desserts and sliced-to-order homemade gravlax and nova.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

WOLF & LAMB 16 East 48th Street New York, NY 10017 (212) 317-1950 wolfandlambsteakhouse.com Instagram: @wolfandlambnyc Kosher Certification: OK Kosher

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

BEEF TARTARE SOUTHERN FRIED PICKLES

Fresh basil aioli SALMON CEVICHE

Avocado, lime, jalapeño, red onions, garlic and ginger PULLED BARBECUE BEEF PIZZA

BBQ Sauce, roasted kale, pickled red onion and shaved garlic W&L BURGER

Fresh ground ribeye, wild mushrooms, arugula and mint pesto, demi glace, crispy shallots FILET MIGNON

Served with choice of wild mushroom and veal demi glace, jalapeño salsa verde or cabernet reduction EDITOR'S NOTE

For over 20 years, Wolf & Lamb has been serving high-quality kosher food in New York City and played an instrumental role in the revolution of kosher fine-dining. The steakhouse continues to take pride in using the best meats, all butchered on premises and hand-selected for perfection. With an industrial aesthetic and unique modern art adorning the walls, Wolf & Lamb is warm and inviting. With a pastry chef on staff, the desserts are inventive and beautifully plated.

BEEF BOLOGNESE

Tagliatelle, rich ground beef and tomato sauce

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

MIMOSA 4747 Collins Avenue Miami Beach, FL 33140 mimosameals.com (305) 230-4200 Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami (KM)

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PRIME RIB CARVING

Sous vide USDA black angus Prime ribeye slow-roasted with herbs de Provence CORNISH HEN

Petite cornish hens roasted to perfection with meyer lemons, tarragon and thyme MIDDLE EASTERN SALMON

EDITOR'S NOTE

Sashimi-grade salmon, Moroccan harissa, pitted olives and chickpeas slowcooked in red pepper and heirloom tomato purée

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Mimosa is one of Miami Beach’s premier kosher event spaces. Centrally located, Mimosa is available for individual or group reservations for Shabbat or holiday meals as well as events. Vacationers will enjoy artfully prepared Shabbat or holiday meals, served buffet-style, in a freshly renovated indoor dining space or on the beautiful outdoor patio.

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022

41 MIAMI 4101 Pine Tree Drive Miami Beach, FL 33140 (305) 230-4200 41miami.com Instagram: @41.miami Kosher Certification: Kosher Miami (KM)

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

ROASTED BEET HUMMUS

Roasted beets, overnight chickpeas, Har Bracha tahini, local lemons and a dash of extra-virgin olive oil TRADITIONAL CHICKEN SOUP

Slowly simmered with farmfresh vegetables, dill and whole chicken PRIME RIB CARVING

EDITOR'S NOTE

41 is one of Miami Beach’s premier kosher event spaces. Centrally located, 41 is available for individual or group reservations for Shabbat or holiday meals as well as events. Vacationers will enjoy artfully prepared Shabbat or holiday meals, served buffet-style, in a beautiful dining space.

Sous vide USDA black angus Prime ribeye slow-roasted with herbs de Provence

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COOKBOOK

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COOKBOOK

AUNIKA GOWARDHAN is a celebrated Indian food writer, chef and author of the soon-to-be-released Thali: A Joyful Celebration of Indian Home Cooking. With over 237,000 followers on Instagram alone (@cookinacurry), Maunika shares her passion for bringing Indian food to the masses. Without proper representation of Indian cuisine in the kosher restaurant scene, those who love the explosion of spices and flavors that Indian cuisine offers have to source the ingredients at specialty markets and take to their home kitchens. Therefore, we decided to feature an Indian cookbook in an effort to bring the flavors of India into your home. While this cookbook is not a kosher one, the majority of the recipes are naturally kosher (pork is generally not eaten in Hindu culture) and the recipes that have conflicts can be easily substituted with kosher variations (such as olive oil or non-dairy butter

substitute for ghee and non-dairy yogurt where yogurt is called for); only two recipes use non-kosher shellfish. The book begins with a robust introduction that delves into the inspiration behind the title of the book — thali literally translates to mean “a large plate,” referring to a complete meal that includes a variety of curries, stir fries, breads, rice and condiments that can vary by region and home tradition. Thalis include all flavors on the spectrum, from hot and spicy to sweet and sour. The book goes through how to create a thali and even the proper techniques for eating. Maunika peppers personal anecdotes and stories of her family’s history throughout the book. Each chapter encompasses what Maunika would describe as a component of a complete thali, though any recipe can surely be enjoyed on its own. Most modern cookbooks include an outline of the author’s favorite kitchen essentials, but in Thali, this guide (which includes some recipes for Indian spice blends used throughout the book and Maunika’s favorite kitchen essentials) is most unique and helpful especially to readers who are new to Indian cuisine.

Thali: A Joyful Celebration of Indian Home Cooking By: Maunika Gowardhan Publisher: Hardie Grant Photographer: Sam A. Harris Release Date: March 22, 2022* Price: $32.50 (Hardcover) *Currently available for pre-order on amazon.com

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COOKBOOK Recipe excerpted with permission from Thali by Maunika Gowardhan, published by Hardie Grant Books, March 2022.

THE BOOK BEGINS with a Stir-Fried Vegetables chapter, a fully vegetarian collection of recipes like Spiced Cabbage with Turmeric & Green Peas and Spicy Stir-Fried Garlic Potatoes. The next few chapters focus on curries, arguably the most notable dish in Indian cuisine. Some standouts include Green Chilli Chicken Curry with Turmeric & Garam Masala and Home-Style Chicken Curry in the Chicken Curries chapter and Slow-Cooked Lamb & Chickpea Curry and Apricot Lamb Curry with Crispy Potato Straws in the Lamb Curries chapter. Find dishes like Spiced Turmeric & Coriander Potato Curry and New Potatoes in Spiced Mint Gravy in the Vegetarian Curries chapter and comforting dishes like Classic Coconut Fish Curry in the Seafood Curries chapter. Dals are highlighted in the next chapter, which refer to lentil or bean side dishes that are an integral part of an Indian thali. Some standouts include GarlicSpiced Spinach & Lentil Dal and Garlic & Cumin Dal with Tomato, Chilli & Coriander. The next chapter, Snacks, includes bites like addictive Crispy Fried Lentil Patties. According to Maunika, Breads & Rice serve as the backbone of the thali platter, so this chapter includes some classics like Wholemeal Flatbreads (otherwise known as phulkas) and Vegetable Fried Rice with Ginger & Turmeric. Rounding out the meal are cool accompaniments in the Condiments & Raitas chapter, including Turmeric & Ginger Pickle and Coconut & Cucumber Salad. The Desserts, Sweet Things & Drinks chapter highlights delicacies like Stewed Apricots with Almonds, Pistachio & Saffron and Chai Infused with Cardamom & Lemongrass. The book ends with sample thali menus from four different regions across India, which truly shows the diversity of the cuisine and culture and the versatility of the recipes. Indian cuisine relies heavily on spices — both warm and spicy — and chilies, so beware. Though chilies can often be omitted and spices can be muted slightly, the overall foundation of the cuisine is built on spices, so it’s not for the faint of heart — or palate! While many cookbooks nowadays tend to focus on lifestyle and decor, Thali remains true to the recipes and the beautiful styling is simplistic in nature, just as it would be on an authentic Indian table. If you are adventurous and love sourcing unique ingredients and cooking ethnic dishes, try your hand at Indian cuisine. Thali brings it home in a wonderfully approachable way.

REFER TO THE FLEISHIGS APP FOR SOME OTHER INDIAN-INSPIRED RECIPES (IN ISSUES #11 AND #22).

RAJASTHANI KHADE MASALE KA MURGH Stir-Fried Chicken with Whole Spices & Green Chillies SERVES 4

I have very fond memories of my visits to Jaipur and Udaipur, tucking into hearty dishes like this. Whole spices are coarsely crushed and fried to infuse the oil, then onions and ginger are cooked with chicken on the bone. This particular dry-fry dish is a personal favourite. The caramelised onions coat the chicken, along with coarsely crushed bay leaves, cinnamon and cardamom, lending a warmth to the final dish. Ideally, it would be served on your thali with plain dal, parathas and some cucumber salad. 1 green bird’s-eye chilli 5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 5 cm (2 in) ginger root, roughly chopped 4 tbsp vegetable oil or mustard oil 300g (10 1⁄2 oz) white onions, thinly sliced 150g (5 oz) tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 tbsp ground coriander 900g (2 lb) skinless chicken on the bone, jointed and cut into medium-sized pieces Salt, to taste ½ tsp garam masala 1 tbsp roughly chopped coriander (cilantro), to garnish F O R T H E W H O L E-S P I C E M I X

5 cm (2 in) cassia bark 2 dried bay leaves 1 tsp black peppercorn 1 black cardamom pod, whole 1 tsp cumin seeds 8 cloves 1. First make the whole-spice mix. Add all the ingredients to a pestle and mortar and pound to a coarse mix. You might have some that isn’t crushed completely, but that’s fine. Set aside. 2. Put the green chilli, garlic and ginger in a blender and blitz to a smooth, fine paste with a splash of water. Set aside. 3. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the crushed whole-spice mix and fry for a couple of seconds, then add the onions and fry for 12–14 minutes until they are beginning to soften. Stir every few minutes, making sure they donʼt stick to the bottom of the pan. Add the chilli, ginger and garlic paste and fry for 1–2 minutes. Add a splash of water and scrape off the bottom of the pan; mix well as everything turns a rich, dark colour. 4. Add the chopped tomatoes and continue to fry for 3–4 minutes until they begin to soften, mashing them lightly with the back of the spoon. Add the ground coriander and stir, then add the chicken and combine well. Season to taste and cook for 6 minutes, stirring to coat the chicken pieces in the masala. 5. Reduce the heat to low, cover and continue cooking for 25 minutes, making sure to stir halfway through. The chicken will begin to release its juices and cook in its own stock, so there is no water required. If it does get too dry, add about 3 tablespoons of water, but only if needed. Turn off the heat and add the garam masala and garnish with fresh coriander. Stir well and serve warm with roti or naan and cucumber raita. JANUARY 2022

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PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT: SAM A. HARRIS FOR THALI BY MAUNIKA GOWARDHAN

COOKBOOK

RAJASTHANI KHADE MASALE KA MURGH Stir-Fried Chicken with Whole Spices & Green Chillies (recipe above)

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BEST INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS Gabriel Boxer has done quite a bit of traveling this past year. We asked him to share his top five most memorable travel locations around the world.

PARIS The goose liver at L'atelier Déli was outstanding. It was paired with raspberry chutney, which was the perfect sweet, tangy and acidic complement to the fatty, melt-in-your-mouth liver. It was truly memorable. Kosher Certification: Beth Din of Paris

MOROCCO On a recent trip to Morocco with the Ministry of Tourism, I fell in love with the history and culture of the country, where we were welcomed by locals with open arms. The hospitality is second to none and was apparent particularly in the tea service, available at most restaurants. From the way the tea is poured to optimize the seeping to the cooling process, having tea in Morocco is always a show and an experience in its own right.

PANAMA With over 40 kosher establishments, Panama’s kosher scene is unrivaled. Each restaurant brings so much creativity to their menu. Aria offered fresh hearts of palm, Yoss Burger Bar was amazing and I loved being able to order plantains as a side at many of the restaurants (as one would order fries). Aroma Gourmet had the most original corvina fish dish - I am still dreaming about it. Kosher Certification: Shevet Achim

ISRAEL With our son learning in Israel for the past two years, we were finally able to visit this past November when Israel was open for a mere three weeks. How grateful we were to have planned the trip when we did! The biggest surprise were the burgers at Burger Market (Jerusalem Rabbanut) in Machane Yehuda Market. I didn’t expect the burgers in Israel to be better than those back home, but I was happily mistaken. While in the shuk, falafel is obviously a must and we absolutely love Levi Falafel (Jerusalem Rabbanut). However, for elevated falafel, Mamilla Sushi (Badatz Mehadrin) has a falafel roll that has been the most unique dish I’ve tasted in israel. The falafel was not only delicious, but the techina and shug dipping sauces just took it to a whole new level.

MANHATTAN Yes, Manhattan might be in my backyard, and there are so many amazing and unique restaurants to eat at. The most creative dessert I have ever had, by far, was at Rothschild TLV. The “breakfast in bed” dessert (shortbread “bacon” and mango egg yolk) was fun and playful, but delicious as well. Kosher Certification: OU

Follow Gabriel Boxer, aka Kosher Guru, on Instagram and Facebook @kosherguru, Facebook Group “Kosher Guru’s Nation” on Twitter @thekosherguru, subscribe to his YouTube channel and blog at www.thekosherguru.com.

INTERVIEW

LEE SCHRAGER BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

LEE BRIAN SCHRAGER, one of the nation’s preeminent event planners and media relations experts, serves as the Senior Vice President, Communications & Corporate Social Responsibility at Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits, LLC. He joined the company in 2000 and oversees projects in 44 US states and the District of Columbia, Canada and the Caribbean. Schrager is widely recognized for his creation of both the South Beach and New York City Wine & Food Festivals, sponsored by Food Network and Cooking Channel. He is also the author of three cookbooks and has dined in thousands of restaurants throughout his career. We had a conversation with Lee about the restaurant experience and the upcoming South Beach Wine & Food Festival.

South Beach Wine & Food Festival has become one of the most recognized events in the food world. How did it grow?

When I joined Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits in 2000, the company held an annual one day event called the Florida Extravaganza to benefit FIU. When I joined, I saw the potential for the event to be much bigger. In 2002, we launched the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, which we relocated from the FIU campus to South Beach. We turned a one day event into three packed days sponsored by Food Network and many celebrity chefs got involved as well. How did you convince the Food Network to sponsor?

It was not an easy sell and took a lot of persistence. Finally, I had the opportunity to have them come down and experience the festival for themselves. Once they saw it in person, they were able to see the potential I saw. How do you keep the festivals exciting each year?

You are only as good as your last event. I am constantly bringing in new talent. I think that if you always do the same 146

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thing, you are never going to grow. This year the Shabbat dinner, for example, will have a few new faces. That sounds exciting! A Shabbat dinner at SOBEWFF?

We are planning a kosher Friday night dinner hosted by Adeena Sussman, Yaniv Cohen, Sam Gorenstein and Hedy Goldsmith, under the direction of Yos Schwartz. The dinner will be held at the Ritz-Carlton Bal Harbor on February 25. Tickets are available online at sobewff.org/shabbat. Do you think the festival played a role in the growth of celebrity chefs and their influence beyond their brick-and-mortar restaurants?

People love the experience of being able to learn from and watch their favorite celebrity chefs in person. I think the growth was simultaneous — because of the growing interest in celebrity chefs and food personalities, seeing them in person was a great way to hype up the festivals and having the festivals celebrate these chefs further enhanced their celebrity status. Any tips when going out to eat?

Going out to eat is so much more than

just the food. Honestly, I can cook at home. Going out to eat is about the food, atmosphere, service and crowd. There is a certain level of entertainment involved, but depending on your interests, it varies. Although, I have found that you have to have a bad meal to appreciate the good ones! In addition to all your other accomplishments, what was the inspiration behind your three cookbooks?

Being around good food my whole life, I developed an understanding about the food people love and that is what my books are all about. My first book, The Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival Cookbook: Recipes and Behind-the-Scenes Stories from America's Hottest Chefs (2010), gives readers an inside look into the thrill of the festivals. I co-wrote my second and third cookbooks, Fried & True: More than 50 Recipes for America's Best Fried Chicken and Sides: A Cookbook (2014) and America's Best Breakfasts: Favorite Local Recipes from Coast to Coast: A Cookbook (2016) with Adeena Sussman and had many friends share recipes. See page 148 for an amazing fried chicken recipe from Fried & True by my friend and acclaimed chef Michelle Bernstein. www.fleishigs.com

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You are only as good as your last event. I think that if you always do the same thing, you are never going to grow.

Fried chicken really is the ultimate comfort food. What other classics are celebrated at the festival?

I’m not particularly adventurous. When you look at the festival, it’s burgers, fried chicken and tacos — it’s not hard to figure out what my favorite foods are! Burger Bash, a burger showdown and tasting event where attendees vote for their favorite burger, is a huge part of the festival. This year’s bash will be hosted by Rachael Ray and José Andrés. Is there really a work-life balance when you are passionate about what you do?

It’s difficult to disconnect. I prefer to keep up and keep in touch, even on vacation. This helps keep me organized in the long run — if I take a bit of time every day to deal with emails and work issues, I won’t come back from a vacation inundated with hundreds of emails. Also, it’s quite enjoyable, in my opinion, to work from a beach sipping a cocktail. Personally, it's about minimizing the time while on vacation, but I am usually always working on something!

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over the chicken, cover, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Drain the brine from the chicken, and rinse and dry the meat completely with paper towels.

EDITOR’S NOTE: With permission, we adapted the recipes to make them kosher.

2. Dredge the chicken: Fill a large (12-inch) skillet halfway with the oil and heat to 275°F. Set a wire rack on top of a rimmed baking sheet and set aside.

Michelle Bernstein’s Fried Chicken and Watermelon Greek Salad Serves 4

Whoever thought a Jewish girl from Argentina could produce one of the best takes on an American favorite? But Michy — as everyone affectionately refers to beloved Miami restaurateur Michelle Bernstein — does exactly that. On summer Wednesdays she serves an incredible, all-you-can-eat fried chicken buffet — the chicken gilded with an impossibly crisp coating — that calls to mind the similar event I ate as a kid at our local Howard Johnson’s. Though her recipe calls for a whole chicken, Michy herself is a dark-meat aficionado, so feel free to swap out the white meat with more thighs and legs. The cool, refreshing salad accompaniment is almost an optical illusion, the tomatoes and watermelon mimicking one another until they hit the tongue.

3. In a baking dish or bowl combine the soy milk, egg yolk, lemon juice and hot sauce. In another dish combine the flour, Old Bay, salt, cayenne and paprika. Dredge the chicken pieces in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess, then dip into the soymilk mixture, then back into the flour mixture, shaking the dish to coat the chicken evenly. 4. Fry the chicken: Working 4 pieces at a time, fry the chicken in batches until golden and fully cooked through, 15 to 18 minutes per batch. Remove the chicken from the oil and drain on the rack; cool for 10 minutes. Heat the oil back up to 350°F. Refry the chicken in batches until it darkens, and crisps, an additional 5 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain the chicken on a wire rack. Drizzle with honey.

Watermelon Greek Salad Serves 4

FO R T H E B R I N E :

1 ¼ ¼ 1 1 1 1

chicken, cut into 8 pieces cup sugar cup kosher salt teaspoon black peppercorns bay leaf teaspoon celery seeds teaspoon fennel seeds

F O R D R E D G I N G A N D F RY I N G :

1½ 1 2 3 3 2 1½ 1 1

Safflower, peanut or grapeseed oil for frying cups soy milk egg yolk tablespoons lemon juice tablespoons hot sauce, preferably Cholula brand cups all-purpose flour tablespoons Old Bay seasoning tablespoons kosher salt tablespoon cayenne pepper tablespoon paprika Honey, for serving

1. Brine the chicken: Place the chicken in a large nonreactive container or dish. In another bowl stir 8 cups of water with the sugar, salt, peppercorns, bay leaf, celery seeds and fennel seeds. Pour the brine 148

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2 ¼ 2

1¾-pound wedge watermelon, rind removed and cut into medium dice (about 4 cups) large beefsteak tomatoes (1¼ pounds), seeded and cut into small dice (about 2 cups) large English hothouse cucumber (¾ pound), peeled and cut into small dice cup crumbled vegan feta cheese (like Trader Joe’s or Violife), optional tablespoons torn dill, uncut cup extra virgin olive oil tablespoons red wine vinegar Pinch of garlic powder Pinch of onion powder Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a large bowl combine the watermelon, tomato, cucumber, feta, and dill. In a small bowl whisk the oil, vinegar, garlic powder and onion powder; season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle half the vinaigrette over the salad and toss very gently. Add the remaining dressing to taste and gently toss again. www.fleishigs.com

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK FREIXENET BY YAEL E. GELLER, MPH

AVA IS THE Champagne equivalent of sparkling wine, but made in Spain. While the production method is similar, the grape varieties used for Cava are not the same as those in Champagne. Freixenet, the family business of Pedro Ferrer and Dolores Sala, is now one of the most well-known and most prominent producers of Cava, clocking in at around 10 million cases (120 million bottles!) produced yearly. The first bottle was released more than 100 years ago, in 1914. The Cava house remained in the family until fairly recently when a large German distributor bought the majority of the shares. Cava is sometimes looked down upon because it is considered a glass of "cheap" Champagne, but it’s supposed to be affordable and good! Overall, producing Cava is not nearly as expensive as producing Champagne and labor is much more affordable in Spain versus France. Freixenet's first kosher Cava Excelencia became available in 2014. Cava is not usually vintaged, meaning there is no production year from the harvest. However, as some people enjoy aged Champagne, they enjoy Cava with some age to it as well. Bodega Freixenet was founded in Spain in 1861 and is located in Sant Saturnian d'Anoia. Both the Ferrer and Sala families come from a long history of winemakers. It is only natural that the two families merging would result in one of the world's most successful sparkling wine businesses. Dolores Sala Vivé married Pedro Ferrer Bosch of the La Freixeneda family. Then, the region had seen an enormous loss in

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red varietal vineyards from the phylloxera virus, which has wreaked havoc on every major vine region in the world at this rate. Each region had to develop ways around this awful plague and rebuild themselves better than before and the Freixenet story is no different at all. This couple decided to listen to the trend of planting primarily white wine varieties like in France. With the help of Dolores’ father, they went on to grow several indigenous to their region, including Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. The family always wanted to concentrate on Cava production following the same French method used for centuries — the secondary fermentation inside the bottle. They built their cellars in the Catalonia region in Spain. Catalonia is a region we know well from Clos Mesorah and Capçanes, which are wellknown kosher wines produced in Spain that we have discussed in this column previously. The Cava was first exported to the USA in the 1930s, but was soon crippled by the wars that ravaged the entire world. In 1941, despite the war raging in Europe, Freixenet launched its most popular product, Carta Nevada Cava. That was just the beginning and now their Cavas can be found in more than 140 countries. So what is so remarkable about Freixenet and Cava? It is easy to drink, easy on the wallet and celebratory. In my opinion, there is always an occasion to sip some sparkling wine. Sometimes, people want to save the fancy stuff for fancy events. In addition, sometimes people need many bottles of sparkling wine and do not want to spend a lot per bottle and Cava fills this niche well. One of the key features of this particular Cava is that it is mevushal, making it a perfect choice for a simcha! L’chaim!

FIND MORE EXCUSES TO CELEBRATE.

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Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com. www.fleishigs.com

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Spring rolls are fashionable in any season, just ask the restaurants popularizing them on their menus year round. Bodhi Thai, a popular vegan Thai restaurant in Los Angeles, and Nununu, a newly opened Israeli joint in Miami Beach, have inspired the following recipes that are easy to make at home. While the method I suggest is traditional frying, they can all be made in an air fryer as well. The results will be just as delicious — crispy on the outside, hot and gooey on the inside. I absolutely love the versatility of a spring roll because the possibilities are truly endless. I’ve suggested some variations below, but feel free to get creative.

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If you’re feeling adventurous, make all of the recipes below for your next party and arrange them on a board with various dipping sauces and accompaniments like fruit and nuts. EDITOR’S NOTE: Spring roll wrappers, typically sold in the freezer section, are not the same as egg roll wrappers — they are lighter in texture, resulting in a thinner, crispier spring roll. However, if you can’t find spring roll wrappers (look for brands like Gefen and Twin Marquis), you can use egg roll wrappers, but adjust the frying time accordingly.

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S’mores Spring Rolls Yield: 10 spring rolls

This is a super fun take on spring rolls and a great way to eat s’mores! The hot, gooey marshmallows are what dreams are made of. I suggest getting the kids involved in making these — anyone young or young-at-heart will love making (and eating!) these. 10 1 10 ⅓

spring roll wrappers cup chocolate chips large marshmallows cup cookie butter spread Oil, for frying

1. Working one at a time, place a spring roll wrapper on a flat

surface with a corner pointed to the bottom. Place 1 tablespoon chocolate chips onto the lower third portion of the wrapper. Top with 1 marshmallow. Fold the bottom corner over the filling, then fold each side inward to the center and continue folding tightly until sealed. 2. Heat about 2 inches of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry spring rolls for 1-2 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. 3. To serve, heat cookie butter in the microwave for 30-45 seconds, then drizzle over the spring rolls. JANUARY 2022

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Banana Spring Rolls Yield: 12 spring rolls

The banana spring rolls at Bodhi Thai, a vegan restaurant in Los Angeles, inspired Shifra to create this feature; when I was in Los Angeles visiting family recently, I was fortunate enough to try the ever popular dessert. I loved the warm, crisp spring rolls and knew I had to create my own. 4 2

spring roll wrappers, defrosted bananas, sliced into 1-inch rounds Oil, for frying Chocolate ganache, for serving

1. Slice each wrapper into thirds. To assemble, place 2-3 banana rounds onto the bottom corner of one strip of a spring roll wrapper. Fold over the banana to form a triangle. Continue wrapping until completely covered. Repeat with remaining wrappers and banana rounds. 2. Heat about 1½-2 inches of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry spring rolls for 1-2 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. To serve, drizzle with chocolate ganache. VA R I AT I O N S : Spread peanut butter or chocolate hazelnut spread (or both!) onto the wrapper before adding the mashed banana.

C H O C O L AT E GA N AC H E : Heat 1 cup non-dairy creamer and 1 tablespoon instant coffee in a saucepan over medium heat. Once hot, remove from heat and stir in 1 (12-ounce) package chocolate chips. Allow to sit in warm cream for a minute. Stir until smooth and silky.

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Baklava Spring Rolls Yield: 10 spring rolls

I love this take on dessert spring rolls, transforming the Middle Eastern delicacy into the perfect sweet fried bite. The recipe is inspired by the one on the menu at Nununu in Miami Beach. FO R T H E SY RU P:

½ ⅔ 2 2 ½

cup water cup sugar tablespoons honey teaspoons lemon juice teaspoon pure vanilla extract

FO R T H E S P R I N G RO L LS :

2½

158

cups mixed nuts (such as walnuts, pistachios and almonds), finely chopped

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1 ½ 10

tablespoon honey teaspoon cinnamon spring roll wrappers Oil, for frying

1. For the syrup, add all ingredients to a small saucepan over medium heat and stir until sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry spring rolls for 1-2 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. 5. To serve, slice spring rolls in half diagonally and generously drizzle with the reserved syrup.

2. For the filling, mix nuts, honey and cinnamon. 3. Working one at a time, place a spring roll wrapper on a flat surface with a corner pointed to the bottom. Place about 3-4 tablespoons of filling onto the lower third portion of the wrapper. Fold the bottom corner over the filling, pressing down on the wrapper on either side of the filling. Fold each side inward to the center and continue folding tightly until sealed. 4. Heat about 2 inches of oil in a sauté

Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes for busy parents who enjoy baking but may not have the time. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a food photographer and food stylist for various brands, with a focus on video content. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_lilyrose or on her website lilyrosebakersblog.com. www.fleishigs.com

UNIQUE RESTAURANTS We asked kosher restaurant expert Elan Kornblum to share a list of the most unique kosher restaurants in the United States. In order to qualify, the restaurant needs to have a menu of unique items that are unable to be found elsewhere. While many restaurants have similar menu items, these restaurants in particular are one of a kind.

KOSHER CHINGLISH This Chinese restaurant has the most authentic Cantonese kosher menu in the world. Authentic, non-Americanized kosher Chinese specific to one region is hard to come by. The owner, who converted to Judaism, is lucky enough to work beside her father, the head chef of the restaurant. 8704 W. Charleston Boulevard Suite 103 Las Vegas, NV 89117 Kosher Certification: Vaad of Las Vegas

CHIMICHURRI CHARCOAL CHICKEN

LENNY’S CASITA This Los Angeles restaurant has been making a name for themselves (see more from Lenny’s on pages 70 and 86) for the fresh, full-flavored Israeli and Mexican-inspired menu, which offers an authentic variety of unique tacos. 8823 W. Pico Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90035 Kosher Certification: OK Kosher

KASAI This Brooklyn hibachi restaurant is the only kosher restaurant of its kind. A typical hibachi meal consists of simply-seasoned proteins of choice, fried rice and noodles cooked in front of your eyes. It’s a true definition of dinner and a show and great for a family night out. 2524 Coney Island Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11223 Kosher Certification: Kehila Kashrus

SABABA KOSHER GRILL This North Miami Beach restaurant serves classic Israeli foods like kebabs, falafel and hummus, but the variety of Indian appetizers, stews and rice make it unique. Sababa is currently the only kosher restaurant that serves meat Indian food. 2218 NE 123rd St North Miami, FL 33181 Kosher Certification: Rabbi David M. Golowinski

NARRUTO BOWL The only kosher ramen restaurant, Narruto serves a variety of ramen bowls and an eclectic fusion of Asian-Latin cuisine. 461 Cedar Lane Teaneck, NJ 07666 Kosher Certification: RCBC

Chimichurri is the only kosher Portuguese chicken restaurant around. The food is so popular that it consistently has non-kosher consumers as well. The food is always executed perfectly and efficiently, the grilled and fried chicken is always juicy and flavorful and, to top it off, the price point makes this spot a success. See more on Chimichurri and chain restaurants on page 76. 450 Rockaway Turnpike Cedarhurst, NY 11516 Kosher Certification: Mehadrin of the 5 Towns 3115 Long Beach Road Oceanside, NY 11572 11 Old Country Road Carle Place, NY 11514 Kosher Certification: Mehadrin of the 5 Towns

JEFF’S GOURMET SAUSAGE FACTORY An iconic Los Angeles restaurant, Jeff’s makes all of their sausages and sauces in-house and has managed to be consistent for decades. Jeff’s is beloved by locals and tourists alike. 930 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90035. 8930 W. Pico Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90035 Kosher Certification: OK Kosher Elan Kornblum, known as "The Restaurant Guy," started Great Kosher Restaurants Magazine in 2003 and has since expanded his online network to the #1 ranked kosher restaurant website in the world, an award-winning monthly newsletter, the largest kosher group on Facebook in the world with 65,000 members and a very popular Instagram page of over 31,000 followers. He has eaten at over 1,000 kosher restaurants across four continents and is considered to be one of the top kosher restaurant influencers. He has revolutionized the way people receive their restaurant information and has bridged the gap between customers and restaurant owners by teaching lessons, positive dialogue and respecting when reviewing. Visit Elan’s Facebook group, Great Kosher Restaurant Foodies, Instagram page @greatkosherrestaurants and website greatkosherrestaurants.com

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19 41 55 55 56 56 59 67 71 72 76 76 78 98

Peach Barbecue Sauce FF Tangy Dipping Sauce M Q Sheet Pan Matbucha Roasted Eggplant M Hilbeh M Schug Shortcut Hummus Q Shortcut Raspberry Mostarda M Q Green Tahini Q Spicy Mayo M Q Chimichurri Pico de Gallo Creamy Balsamic Dressing M Q Yuzu Leche de Tigre

DRINKS 32 45 47 94 95

Zesty Lemon Drop Martini Q Nana Tea M Q Jasmine Tea M Q Negroni San Lychee Nikkei

BREAD 43

Warmed Baguette with Oil and Maldon Salt M Q 62 One Bowl Lachmaniyot 62 Lachuch 64 Fluffy Pita FF

VEGETARIAN 41 43 43 47 50 59 70 70 72 76 78 79 98 148

Avocado Egg Rolls FF Confit Garlic and Vine Tomatoes 15-Hour Potatoes Hot and Sour Soup Vegetable Fried Rice Stewed Chickpeas Tuna Saku with Tomatillo Jalapeño Jam Lenny's Cauliflower FF Tuna Pizzette M Q Pan-Roasted Corn The Greeky Izzy’s Sweet Potato FF Torched Salmon Nikkei Ceviche Watermelon Greek Salad

Portuguese Rice Bowl Q Moo Shu Chicken FF Lenny’s Crunchwrap FF Stir-Fried Chicken with Whole Spices & Green Chillies 148 Michelle Bernstein’s Fried Chicken 76 84 86 143

SWEET TREATS 45 51 74 155 156 156 158

Family-Style Chocolate Molten Cake FF Sweet Orange Slices FF M Q Mandarin Shortbread Eclair with Earl Grey Pastry Cream and Grapefruit Curd S’mores Spring Rolls FF M Q Banana Spring Rolls FF M Q Chocolate Ganache FF M Q Baklava Spring Rolls Q

MEAT 16 19 19 19 19 21 23 43 50 50 55 55 56 67

Sino Lamb Ribs FF Sumac Spiced Lamb Ribs Sumac Roasted Chicken Peach Barbecue Chicken FF Sumac Roasted Barbecue Glazed Chicken FF Slow-Roasted Lamb Riblets Lamb Belly “Porchetta” Skillet Ribeye Beef and Broccoli FF Chicken Lo Mein FF Lachmania Schnitzel Sandwich FF Super Crispy Schnitzel FF M Q Yemenite Soup FF Duck Breast with Raspberry Mostarda M

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

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I N D E X

AS HONORARY CHAIRMAN OF THE KYA APPRECIATION COMMITTEE, IT IS MY PRIVILEGE TO EXTEND TO ALL OF YOU A LAUREL AND HEARTY THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND DONATIONS.

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quality H condiments at the ready is one of the reasons restaurant

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dishes stand out. Taking lessons from restaurant kitchens inspired us to create a solid group of exciting condiments that we have been using for anything and everything, immediately enhancing our eating experience.

AVING GOOD