Fleishigs Magazine Issue 035 - Apr 2022 by Fleishigs Magazine

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PROFILE

PESACH PREP WITH ESTY WOLBE

BACK POCKET

ONE DOUGH MANY WAY

EDITOR’S LETTER

ESSENTIALS New products for Pesach

CHAPTER 1: PLANNING PESACH

CHAPTER 2: BASICS

FRESH Condiment culture

CHAPTER 3: SALADS

CHAPTER 4: SOUPS

TREND The mighty mushroom

CHAPTER 5: FISH

CHAPTER 6: MAINS

BUTCHER'S CUT The wonders of Osso Bucco

STORY Private chefs

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CHOLENT REDO

OVERNIGHT EGGPLANT

105 CHAPTER 7: SIDES 112 STAPLE Salt 121 CHAPTER 8: DESSERTS 133 CHAPTER 9: DRINKS 144 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK ESSA Winery 147 CHAPTER 10: CHOL HAMOED 158 CULINARY SCHOOL

158

CULINARY SCHOOL

SOUS VIDE FOR COOKING IN ADVANCE

Sous vide for cooking in advance 161 RECIPE INDEX

EDITOR'S LETTER

THE PESACH ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

Let your stress go. TO SOME IN our industry, being invited by an organized Pesach program to offer food demos or speaking engagements is a huge opportunity. While contemplating our options for Pesach and considering a few programs that reached out to us, our teenage sons expressed how much they’ve enjoyed the years spent at home over programs (which of course means more work!). We wholeheartedly embrace our Chabad customs of eating no processed foods, peeling every fruit and vegetable and pretty much making everything from scratch, processes that our kids are very much a part of. This includes squeezing dozens of lemons and oranges, cracking tons of nuts, fully covering kitchen countertops and more — we surely work hard for the food we eat! Despite the work involved, there is something special about coming together as a family, spending time in the comfort of our own home and creating unique memories around the inspiring Jewish holiday of Pesach. While many of these Pesach programs sold out in minutes, some people are embracing staying home, including those who stayed home for the first time during COVID-19 lockdowns and realized the benefits. Whether this is your first or twentieth time making Pesach, this issue is packed with inspiration, tips and lots of delicious recipes. Taking into account the

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EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

demands of Pesach cooking, our annual Pesach issue always embraces the style of a cookbook, a shift from our usual layout. Beyond this variation, this year we made a point to focus on recipes that don’t require any fancy equipment or ingredients, are easy to make and most importantly can be prepared in advance. Food blogger Esty Wolbe cooks for Pesach with her mother, Roza Adler, every year weeks in advance, freezing most of the food. We invited Esty and her mother to share their joint wisdom on foolproof Pesach prep and tried-and-true family recipes that we know you will all love and use repeatedly. Beyond cooking in advance, we also focused on recipes with multiple uses. Rosa Seidenwar created an almond-based dough that was used for three different desserts and Adina Silberman shared a potato dough that was used for so many mind blowing recipes — sweet and savory. This issue took us on a culinary journey of advanced cooking, as well as efficiency, mindfulness and strategy in the kitchen, especially for Pesach when many of us cook for a crowd. There is so much worthy content in the pages before and I hope you use it for years to come, creating some incredible family memories in the process. Bitayavon, Shifra

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Claudia Hopkins CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com

www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. In the words of Basil E. Frankfurter, "If I was a pesach chocolate bar, I'd stop the world and melt with you." So its been a couple of issues since I started issuing my issues here, I haven't gotten much traction, but tracht gut vet zein gut. All you have to do is call out my name (@naftolimann), and you know wherever I am, Ill come running, I'll be there, you've got a friend. Words are very unnecessary, all I ever wanted, all I ever needed is some acknowledgment. You don't even need to write, just say hi. So if you follow me everything is all right. This issue was designed to the pleasing and expressive sounds of Uncle Kracker, JEP, Martika, Lou Reed and ABBA. Visual Stimuli: Jack Reacher, endless reels (yeah I know). Books: Dune, Dune Messiah. Listen, Do you want to know a secret? Do you promise not to tell? Whoa, oh, oh

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NEW PRODUCTS FOR PESACH BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ

EVERY YEAR THERE is an influx of new kosher products released just in time for Pesach. Oftentimes, the same products remain available year round, but Pesach is an exciting time for consumers to try new things that they may not have otherwise thought to try during the year. The following is a list of some unique new products that stood out to us — ones we would buy again throughout the year. If you are fortunate enough to live in an area with a large kosher supermarket, you will likely be able to find most of these products. Otherwise, order online (always check Amazon!) or contact the company through their website or Instagram to find out if the product is sold near you.

SCHMERLING’S VEGAN ALMOND BUTTER CHOCOLATE BAR For over 50 years, Schmerling’s has garnered a reputation in the industry for their high-quality chocolate products. The newest bar in their line, which is being released just in time for Pesach, is this non-dairy almond butter chocolate bar — creamy, delicious and perfect for snacking. Certified kosher for Pesach by Zurich Rabbanut schmerling.com | @schmerlings

L’CHAIM MEATS PREMIUM BISON Bison, a lean meat with plenty of health benefits, is fairly new to the mainstream kosher market. This new brand, which launched just in time for Pesach, produces free-range, grass-fed bison that is tender in texture and robust in flavor. Certified kosher for Pesach by OU deramos.com/shop-lchaim | @lchaimmeats

TUSCANINI TOMATO KETCHUP Along with a full line of kosher for Pesach tomato products (canned peeled, diced, whole cherry and crushed tomatoes; and tomato paste in a tube), this new tomato ketchup from Tuscanini, a leader in Italian-made kosher products, has a rich flavor and simple ingredient list — an upscale version of a classic favorite condiment. Certified kosher for Pesach by euK and Weissmandl tuscaninifoods.com | @tuscaninifoods

TUSCANINI HOT CALABRESE PEPPERS IN OIL Calabria, Italy is famous for their pepper crop and Tuscanini has brought this authentic Italian antipasto to the kosher market. Preserved in premium Italian olive oil and packed in a glass jar, these hot peppers, now available for Pesach and year round, impart the perfect spicy bite. Certified kosher for Pesach by OU, euK and Weissmandl tuscaninifoods.com | @tuscaninifoods 18

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ESSENTIALS

DEVASH DECAF COFFEE MILK New to Devash’s line of cholov yisroel milks is this kosher for Pesach iced coffee, which can be found in the grocery store’s refrigerated section. Made with low fat milk and quality decaf coffee, it’s a great family-friendly pick-me-up. Certified kosher for Pesach by Vaad of Crown Heights, Vaad of Kiryas Yoel and New Square Rabbinical Kashrus Council

HEAVEN & EARTH VEGGIE COATING CRUMBS Elevate your generic Pesach breadcrumbs with these crispy root vegetable crumbs — a gluten-free blend of veggie chips that will add flavor and texture to schnitzel or salads. Certified kosher for Pesach by OK and Belz @heavenandearthfoods

HEAVEN & EARTH VEGGIE DIPPERS Move over potato chips — these plantain dippers are delicious for snacking, dipped into guacamole or salsa or crushed over salads. Certified kosher for Pesach by OK and Belz @heavenandearthfoods

SHUFRA SEMISWEET CHOCOLATE CHIPS These chocolate chips, made from high-quality semisweet chocolate, are newly kosher for Pesach. With a few simple ingredients and a high chocolate content (55%), your desserts will be better than ever this Pesach. Certified kosher for Pesach by CRC @shufraofficial

THE REBBE’S CHOICE PICKLES AND SAUERKRAUT A wonderful new edition to their popular line of herring (many of which are also kosher for Pesach), The Rebbe’s Choice Celery Garlic Sour Pickles, Jalapeño Honey Pickles and Sauerkraut with Carrots and Garlic are now available for Pesach. Sweet and tangy, they are the perfect accompaniments to your Pesach meals. Certified kosher for Pesach by OK rebbeschoice.com | @therebbeschoice

GAIA COFFEE ROASTERS BREW BAGS Don’t settle for just any instant coffee on Shabbos and Yom Tov. Try these new single-serve brew bags — all you need is a mug and hot water! The brew bags, which can also be used to make cold brew, will stay fresh for up to one year and are fully compostable. Available in Blue Velvet (dark roast), Guatemala Q’anil (light roast) and Swiss Decaf in packages of 10 or a variety pack of 30. (Use on Shabbos and Yom Tov is based on Rav Moshe Feinstein’s ruling on kli shlishi — consult with your local Rabbi.) Certified kosher for Pesach by Star-K gaiacoffee.com | @gaiacoffeeroasters

DEKAL KOSHER COUNTERTOP PEEL & STICK LINER This new product for Pesach, disposable countertops available in three colors (silver, white marble and black marble), makes kashering your kitchen simpler than ever. It comes in a roll and is easy to use — just cut to size, peel and stick. It’s more durable than other versions (meant to last all week), wipes clean and is heat resistant. It leaves no residue when removed, making turning back over after Pesach a breeze. Certified kosher for Pesach by Badatz Yerushalayim kosherdakal.com | @kosherdakal MARCH 2022

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COOKING FOR PESACH can feel like a daunting task, and for good reason. With fewer ingredients and limited access to your usual utensils, cooking meals upon meals can be a challenge with menus that can start to feel repetitive. But to Esty Wolbe, a recipe developer, food blogger and the self-described “professional onehanded cook” behind @cookingwithtantrums on Instagram, the key to success is all in the attitude. “I give myself a pep talk before every Yom Tov reminding myself to leave the guilt at the door,” says Esty. “We do so much for our families and it's important to take care of ourselves too.” That can include taking shortcuts like using disposable dishes (and even measuring cups) or buying prepared ingredients and boxed mixes, but it also means setting yourself up for success by planning ahead, preparing as efficiently as possible and stocking the freezer in advance to give yourself space to go into the holiday with a happy heart.

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people complain about Pesach food and didn’t quite understand it,” reflects Esty. “My mother always cooked lots of hearty meat-andpotatoes dinners, both during the year and on Pesach. There are so many ways to make potatoes, I don’t know how you could ever get sick of them!” Even as an adult with children of her own, Esty loves cooking for Pesach together with her mother, Roza Adler. “My mom kashers her kitchen as soon as Purim is over,” she says. “The meat in the kosher grocery stores is usually kosher for Pesach by then, so we plan the menu, stock up on all of the chicken and meat and get started.” The duo starts with dishes that freeze well like slow cooked roasts, brisket, chicken and their famous mushroom sauce meatballs (page 153) so that the bulk of the cooking is done by the time Pesach arrives. (“Of course, then my mom adds a whole bunch of extra things to the menu!” adds Esty with a laugh.) “My cooking mantra is ‘work smart, not hard,’” says Esty. “More work does

roasted potatoes, vegetables and fresh salads. Even when you can’t fully prepare a dish in advance, often there are components that can be done ahead of time to make the process much smoother. “If I’m making a meat-and-potatoes stew, I’ll slow cook the meat ahead of time and freeze it without the potatoes, then add those the day we want to eat it and let it finish cooking,” says Esty. “Even for something like a fresh, crunchy quinoa salad — you can make a large batch of plain quinoa, then freeze portions in Ziploc bags with the air squeezed out, so that all you need to do is defrost it and add some fresh vegetables and herbs for a light and refreshing side dish or Chol Hamoed lunch.” Although many people are hesitant to freeze cooked food in advance, thinking it just won’t taste the same as fresh, all you need are a few basic tips to ensure success. Start by choosing freezerfriendly dishes (especially ones cooked low and slow or in sauce). Once cooked,

not mean more virtuousness. Lean on easy recipes and group things by how they’ll be cooked so you can maximize your prep time and oven space.” For example, Esty will marinate all of her low-and-slow roasts like brisket, French roast and veal breast, then cook them all at the same time in a 250°-275°F oven overnight. Once chilled, Esty slices the meat, partially submerges it in its sauce, wraps it up tightly and freezes it for Yom Tov meals that are ready to go. “I’ll even make four of the same exact roast in one giant pan, then slice them all and package them separately for different meals throughout the holiday,” she adds. “I don’t usually freeze cooked food during the rest of the year, but on Pesach it works so well and everything comes out delicious.” Once the main dishes are taken care of, all that’s left to do on Pesach is supplement with the things that can’t be made in advance, like

let the food cool fully, then wrap it tightly, squeezing out as much of the air as you can. Freeze as soon as possible for the best results. Many dishes can be reheated straight from the freezer, too. (Unsure if you should reheat covered or uncovered? General rule of thumb — if you want it to stay nice and moist, keep it covered. If you’re looking for crisp, uncover it!) Your guests will be none the wiser and enjoy your relatively sane presence at the table. “If Pesach feels like a huge hurdle for you and you’re feeling nervous, I get it,” says Esty. “But if you set yourself up for success by planning ahead and choosing simple recipes, it doesn’t have to be overwhelming. The holiday is all about spending time with your family and having good wholesome meals, not about how much time you spent slaving away in the kitchen making fancy dishes. Once you get that pressure off your shoulders, you can enjoy the holiday."

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There’s a lot of prep work to be done, so once you’re prepping something, think about all the things you’ll need it for. Caramelizing onions? Slice the whole bag and freeze in portions to add to literally anything. Peeling carrots? Might as well peel them all now so they’re ready to go. Getting that prep work out of the way is a huge help once you get started on the recipes. Plan your order of operations from least to most messy, whether using a bowl or food processor, so you have fewer dishes to wash. If you make chocolate chip cookies first and then chocolate cake, all that's needed is a quick wipe or rinse of the bowl in between. The same applies when you put on a fresh pair of gloves — toss those veggies with just oil and salt first, then you can go straight to mixing the messier dish without needing a new pair.

into the oven, but if you add the oil in advance, they'll start to break down. Instead, clean, chop and prep each of your vegetables on a separate tray, then add oil to all of them right before they go into the oven. 5.

On that note, knowing your measurement conversions can help make it easier to use the measuring cup or spoon that is already out. (3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon; 4 tablespoons = ¼ cup)

If you have little sous chefs around, give them some easy tasks (like peeling) and a designated work spot so that they can feel helpful and contribute without getting in the way.

Keep one knife and cutting board out throughout the day to be used only for vegetables so it doesn’t have to be washed between recipes. You can prepare all your vegetables for roasting and let them hang out on the pan until you’re ready to pop them

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Buy an extra set of dry measuring cups (or two) to keep inside each dry ingredient. For example, keep the tablespoon inside the cocoa powder and the ¼ cup in the bag of sugar (if a recipe calls for ½ cup sugar, just add two scoops). This keeps everything streamlined and makes fewer dishes to wash!

As tempting as it is, when freezing meat, if you fill the 9x13 pan all the way with sauce, it may cause a mess if you

stack pans. You’d rather lose a little bit of that sauce than have it all over your freezer. 9.

If you’re cooking in a different location and transporting your food, think about stacking. If you make a beautiful dessert with a layer of chocolate on the top, then stack other pans on top of it, all of that chocolate will end up on the foil. (Or, consider 9x13 aluminum covers for this task.)

10. Take all the shortcuts you need! Use disposable dishes, pans and measuring cups if it makes your life easier. No one will give you a medal for using only real dishes if it means you are miserable.

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support & HR manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook. www.fleishigs.com

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Coffee Garlic Rub Yield: Heaping ¾ cup

Mix ¼ cup brown sugar, ¼ cup ground coffee, 2 tablespoons smoked paprika, 4 teaspoons sweet paprika, 4 teaspoons granulated onion, 4 teaspoons granulated garlic and 4 teaspoons kosher salt.

This spice rub is my secret weapon and can be used on anything. I multiply the recipe and keep it in a spice jar so it's always ready when I need it. I prefer to use freshly ground coffee, but if you only have instant on hand, decrease it to 2 tablespoons. Decaf works too, just make sure not to use flavored grounds!

Coffee-Rubbed Grilled Pargiyot Add 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs to a Ziploc bag. Season with 2-3 tablespoons coffee garlic rub and drizzle with ¼ cup oil. Massage to distribute spice rub and oil until chicken is fully coated. Let marinate for 15 minutes and up to 24 hours. Heat grill to medium-high and grill for 6-8 minutes per side. Alternatively, grill in a grill pan for 8-10 minutes per side over medium-high heat.

Coffee-Rubbed Roast Rub 1 (4-pound) first cut brisket, secondcut brisket, beef deckle or French roast all over with ¼ cup coffee garlic rub. Cover tightly with foil and cook in a 275°F oven for 6 hours, until fork tender.

Slow Cooker Coffee-Rubbed Pulled Deckle Rub 1 (4-pound) beef deckle all over with ¼ cup coffee garlic rub. Add to a slow cooker with 1 sliced onion, ½ cup barbecue sauce and ½ cup water. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, then shred using two forks.

Coffee-Rubbed Roasted Sweet Potatoes Cut sweet potatoes into wedges. Toss with 2 tablespoons coffee rub and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Arrange on a parchmentlined baking sheet and roast at 425°F for 30 minutes.

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COFFEE-RUBBED ROASTED SWEET POTATOES

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SLOW COOKER COFFEE-RUBBED PULLED DECKLE

COFFEE RUBBED PARGIYOT

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POTATOES ARE A staple in the Jewish diet all year round. But on Pesach, they offer a unique versatility because of their starch content — if treated correctly, potatoes can transform into something unique that mimics the airy quality of leavened foods. The following dough recipe can be used in so many different ways to elevate your holiday meals, from savory preparations like gnocchi many ways to sweet preparations like apricot knedle.

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Gnocchi is just one of the versatile uses for this potato dough. We even fried the gnocchi into tater tots and stuffed the dough with apricots for a sweet treat (recipes follow).

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Potato Dough Serves: 4-6

2 1 2 1

extra large Russet potatoes egg, beaten teaspoons kosher salt cup potato starch

1. Boil potatoes for about 1½ hours, until fork tender. Once cool enough to handle, peel and mash until smooth. The total amount of mashed potatoes should be about 4 cups. 2. In a large bowl, mix mashed potatoes with egg and salt, then slowly incorporate potato starch until a light and slightly sticky dough forms. Form into a ball. Use dough to form Potato Gnocchi or Apricot Knedle (recipes follow).

Potato Gnocchi with Fried Onions Fried onions can be made in advance (even frozen in portions) and reheated — reheat in a sauté pan, covered, over medium heat, then increase heat and sauté, uncovered, until crispy. Add ½ cup olive oil to a sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1 finely chopped large onion and sauté for 20 minutes, until golden brown. Add to cooked gnocchi (recipe follows) and serve as is or place in an oven safe dish and cook, uncovered, in a 425°F oven for 20 minutes, until golden brown and slightly crisp. Serve immediately.

Potato Gnocchi with Pesto

• When working with the dough, keep extra potato starch on hand for dusting your work surface.

I like to have a jar of pesto in my fridge at all times and Pesach is no different. Use any nuts that you like, such as pine nuts, walnuts, pistachios, almonds or pecans — any of them (or even a combination) work well!

• Although the potatoes can be boiled in advance, the dough should be made right before shaping for best results.

NOTE: If making the pesto in advance, cover with a thin layer of oil to prevent browning. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

N OT E S :

• Add a bit of oil once the gnocchi are boiled to prevent sticking. TO FREEZE, THERE ARE TWO OPTIONS:

• Freeze gnocchi in a single layer once shaped (before boiling), then thaw and boil fresh before serving. • Freeze gnocchi in a single layer once boiled, then thaw and reheat fresh before serving. SLICING THE GNOCCHI

Pulse ¼ cup nuts, 1 garlic clove, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper in a food processor until finely chopped. Add 2 cups basil leaves and ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil and pulse until smooth. Toss pesto with cooked gnocchi (recipe follows) and serve immediately.

Potato Gnocchi with Pulled Beef and Mushroom Sauce Preheat oven to 300°F. Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add 1 thinly sliced large onion, 4 minced shallots, 2 garlic cloves, 2 teaspoons kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Sauté until browned, about 10 minutes. Add 12 ounces mushrooms and 4 chopped Roma tomatoes and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Add ¼ cup honey or maple syrup and sauté for another minute. Add 1 (2½-pound) chuck roast and cover with 1½ cups dry red wine or chicken broth. Bring to a boil, then cover tightly and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3-4 hours, until meat is fork tender, then shred using two forks. Bring sauce to a boil and cook until thickened, about 15 minutes. Return meat to the pot and mix until coated. Serve over cooked gnocchi (recipe follows). Top with chopped fresh parsley.

Potato Gnocchi Serves: 4-6

The potato dough is perfect for gnocchi because the potato starch replaces the flour you’d typically use, but doesn’t compromise the pillowy and fluffy texture that gnocchi is known for.

Potato starch, for dusting Potato Dough (recipe above) Topping or sauce of choice (recipes follow)

1. Dust a flat surface with potato starch and, using a sharp knife, divide the potato dough into 4 equal portions. Roll each portion into a long snake, about 1 inch in diameter. 2. Cut 1-inch pieces and transfer to a piece of parchment paper to rest for at least 10 minutes to allow the surfaces to dry slightly. 3. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Carefully drop prepared gnocchi into the water, making sure not to overcrowd the pot, working in batches if necessary. Stir every so often to ensure that the gnocchi are not sticking to the bottom of the pot. Once the gnocchi rise to the surface, boil for another 2 minutes. 4. Strain gnocchi and mix with desired sauce or topping (see above recipes). Serve immediately.

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Twice-Fried Potato Gnocchi Tater Tots Working in batches, fry cooked gnocchi (recipe above) in light olive oil until lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate or cooling rack. Allow oil to come back up to temperature, then fry gnocchi for another minute, until deeply golden brown on all sides. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate or cooling rack and season immediately with kosher salt. Serve immediately with ketchup or your favorite dipping sauce.

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Apricot Knedle Serves: 10

A cousin to your typical kneidel (otherwise known as a matzah ball), knedle (from the German word knödel, meaning dumpling) are a Polish sweet-and-savory classic that merge unexpected flavors in a visually exciting presentation. We used fresh apricots, but you can use any stone fruit, such as plums. Enjoy as a filling breakfast or as a heimish dessert! NOTE: If you already have a batch of the potato dough prepared, the knedle will still come out delicious and get their sweet flavor from the sweetened plums and the extra sprinkling of cinnamon-sugar. However, for a sweeter dough, add 2 tablespoons sugar with the egg and salt in the potato dough recipe above. FO R T H E F I L L I N G :

5 ¼ 2 1

apricots, halved, pits removed cup sugar teaspoons imitation vanilla extract teaspoon cinnamon

FO R T H E D O U G H :

Potato starch, for sprinkling Potato Dough (page 40) (see headnote)

FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

½ ¼ 1 ½ ½ 42

cup chopped almonds cup non-dairy butter substitute tablespoon sugar, plus more for serving teaspoon cinnamon, plus more for serving teaspoon kosher salt

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1. For the filling, mix apricots with sugar, vanilla and cinnamon. Set aside. 2. For the dough, flour a work surface with potato starch and divide dough into 10 equal portions. Using a rolling pin or your hand, flatten each portion of dough into a 4-5-inch circle, ¼ inch in thickness. Place a piece of apricot into the center of each dough circle. Spoon over an extra bit of the sugar-cinnamon mixture that the apricots were tossed in. Bring the sides of the dough up to fully enclose the apricot and roll into a smooth ball. Repeat shaping steps for the remaining dough and plums.

M A K E A H E A D:

Knedle can be shaped in advance and frozen, then thawed and boiled when ready to serve. C H A N G E I T U P:

Deep frying the dough creates fritter/ doughnut-like results with a crisp exterior and warm, fruity inside. Simply heat a large pot of oil to 365°F and fry knedle for 6-8 minutes, until golden brown. Immediately dust in cinnamon-sugar and serve warm.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Gently lower knedle into the pot. Allow water to come back up to a boil, then immediately lower heat and simmer, covered, until knedle are cooked through, about 25 minutes. 4. For the topping, add almonds to a sauté pan with non-dairy butter, sugar, cinnamon and salt over medium heat. Cook until butter melts and sugar dissolves. Set aside until ready to serve. 5. Strain knedle. To serve, top with nut topping and a sprinkle of cinnamon and sugar. Serve immediately.

Adina Silberman is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking, with a simple food philosophy — she cooks backwards, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks turn their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and two daughters. www.fleishigs.com

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esty is putting on a clinic. SHIFRA'S NOTE:

Oven-Baked Schnitzel

ONE OF ESTY’S mom Roza’s secrets throughout Pesach prep is having a huge vat of mayonnaise on hand. People are surprised and sometimes turned off by this, but mayonnaise is essentially a combination of eggs and oil and just does something magical. Whether added to a sauce, used as a coating for schnitzel or stirred into mashed potatoes, it transforms the dish. In fact, for our Israel issue (#9), our editor Elisheva Taitz contributed delicious beef kofta kabobs using mayonnaise, a trick she has been cooking with for years (recipe on the Fleishigs app). On The Final Table, a popular Netflix cooking competition, competitor chef Timothy Hollingsworth used mayonnaise to coat turkey for a dish celebrating American traditions — a surprising and unexpected move. After all, he had access to butter and chose to use mayonnaise instead, which goes to show that it’s more than just a condiment.

Serves: 4-6

By: Esty Wolbe

Using dark meat provides a juicier result, but feel free to do this with chicken breast as well. EDITOR’S NOTE: For optimal crispiness, cook chicken on a greased baking rack set on top of a baking sheet. This will allow the air to circulate around the chicken, resulting in two crispy sides instead of just one. Additionally, make sure to space the chicken properly and not crowd it — use two pans if necessary. 2 1 1

pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs cup mayonnaise large bag barbecue potato chips, crushed

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare a parchmentlined baking sheet. Brush mayonnaise all over chicken thighs on both sides, then dip in crushed chips. 2. Arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Cook for 20 minutes, then flip and cook for another 5-10 minutes. M A K E A H E A D:

Freeze breaded schnitzel raw in between layers of parchment paper and cook straight from the freezer.

Homemade Mayonnaise Yield: 1½ cups

Blend 1 egg, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and the juice of ½ lemon in a food processor or blender for 30-45 seconds. With the motor running, slowly add 1 cup neutral oil and blend until incorporated. Store mayonnaise in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to 5 days.

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BACK POCKET

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FRESH

umami with mushka.

C O N D I M E N T W I T H I N T E N T. BY: M U S H K A H AS K E L E V I CH

BEING A PRIVATE CHEF during Pesach means delivering maximum flavor while using minimal ingredients. I love this holiday because it forces me to come up with creative ideas that I can later apply to my non-Pesach menus. The prep days leading up to Pesach are crucial, so I start with a whole bunch of homemade condiments that can be pulled out of the fridge to spruce up any dish. These are some of the Pesach essentials that I can’t do without.

NOTES: • If you don’t use fresh herbs on Pesach itself, blending them with oil before Pesach starts is a great way to add quick flavor to dishes, whether as a marinade or vinaigrette. • If you don’t use store-bought mayonnaise on Pesach, make it from scratch using egg yolks and olive oil or, in lieu of the olive oil, use some herb vinaigrette (recipe below) for a pop of flavor and color. • Add a burst of umami to any meal by dehydrating mushrooms in the oven and blending them in the food processor to create a homemade version of the popular umami seasoning.

Mushka Haskelevich grew up in Crown Heights, Brooklyn and always had a thirst for good food and quality ingredients. At the age of 18 she began working in restaurants such as Moses Wendel’s Pardes and Itta Werdiger’s Mason & Mug, honing the skills that would pave her career path. Mushka lived in Israel for eight years where she learned how to cook and worked in many restaurants and eateries in various capacities. Currently, Mushka lives in Brooklyn and works as a private chef, preparing the food she loves for a wide client base. In her spare time, you can find Mushka perusing the various markets of New York City. Follow Mushka on Instagram @mushkainthemarket or her website mushkainthemarket.com. MARCH 2022

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HERB VINAIGRETTE Yield: 1½ cups By: Mushka Haskelevich

Blend 1 cup olive oil, 1 bunch basil, 1 shallot and the juice of 1 lemon until smooth. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

PICKLED JALAPEÑO MAYO Yield: 1½ cups By: Shifra Klein

Blend 1 cup mayonnaise with ½ cup pickled jalapeños (recipe follows). Season with kosher salt to taste.

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GARLIC APRICOT CONFIT Yield: 2 cups By: Mushka Haskelevich

You can really use this method to confit anything. Get creative and make it your own! EDITOR’S NOTE: Check out the incredible parsnip confit recipe in last year’s Pesach issue #25 or on the Fleishigs app. 12 1 3 2

cloves garlic cup dried apricots sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary, optional cups olive oil, to cover

CITRUS BEET VINAIGRETTE

DRIED MUSHROOMS By: Shifra Klein

Yield: 2+ cups By: Mushka Haskelevich

2 1 2 1 1

cooked beets Zest and juice of 1 orange Juice of 1 lemon shallot sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only cup olive oil tablespoon honey

Blend ingredients until smooth. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Preheat oven to 150°F. Clean mushrooms of choice and dry well. Thinly slice and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet (use more baking sheets depending on the quantity). Cook for 1 hour. Flip mushrooms and blot any excess water with paper towels. Cook for another hour. If mushrooms are not yet dried, repeat the process until completely dried. Let cool, then store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Add garlic, apricots and thyme (if using) to a medium saucepan over low heat. Add enough oil to cover and simmer until garlic is tender, but not browned, about 30 minutes. Let cool. www.fleishigs.com

UMAMI SEASONING BLEND Yield: ⅓ cup

⅛

PICKLED MUSHROOMS

By: Shifra Klein

By: Chef Hudi Riven

Combine 2 thinly sliced red onions, ½ cup red wine vinegar, ¼ cup sugar, 1 tablespoon warm water and 2 teaspoons kosher salt in a jar. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Cover with a tight fitting lid and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Keep a jar of these pickled mushrooms in the fridge to serve alongside any rich meat. They add a perfect tang.

By: Shifra Klein

You can easily double, triple or quadruple this recipe to make as much of it as you’d like. ¼ 1 1 1 ⅛

PICKLED ONIONS

cup dried mushrooms teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon onion powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

Pulse dried mushrooms in a spice grinder until finely ground. Combine with remaining ingredients. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

PICKLED JALAPEÑOS By: Shifra Klein

Combine 6 thinly sliced jalapeños, ½ cup red wine vinegar, ¼ cup sugar, 1 tablespoon warm water and 2 teaspoons kosher salt in a jar. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Cover with a tight fitting lid and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

1 2 1 6 1 1 ½ ½ ½ 2

quart mixed mushrooms, sliced tablespoons oil shallot, thinly sliced cloves garlic, thinly sliced sprig fresh thyme teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup apple cider vinegar cup white wine strips lemon peel Juice of ½ lemon

1. Place mushrooms in a jar with a tight fitting lid and set aside. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add shallots, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar, wine, lemon peel and lemon juice. Bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat. 2. Pour mixture over mushrooms. Let cool, then store in the fridge for up to 3 months. For best results, serve after at least 12 hours.

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SALADS

IT’S IRONIC THAT my signature recipes are the diverse salads I can’t stop creating. Salads used to paralyze me — my recipe books of yore were written with the specificity of someone who was powerless without detailed instructions. “DIJON mustard” and “RED cabbage” they would scream, as if the crime of using white cabbage over red would tank my entire menu. I’ve come a long way — a way far enough that I don’t even understand that paralysis anymore. I pair foods

with abandon, favoring color and texture over rules and regulations. The goal is always the same — beautiful food that is rainbow bright and flavor forward. When you’re working with nature, that’s not hard to achieve. I think it’s the things that have tripped us up the most that, once mastered, become our most prized skills. So be unabashedly fearless, creative and adventurous.

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SALADS

Kale and Persimmon Salad with Spiced Nut Clusters Serves: 6-8

This salad is the perfect example of not following the rules — if you can’t find fresh persimmon, replace with peaches, apples or pears. 4 2 ¼-½ ½

cups kale or mixed greens persimmons, thinly sliced cup chopped fresh parsley cup dried cherries, optional

Herb Vinaigrette (page 50) Spiced Nut Clusters (recipe follows)

Toss kale, persimmons, parsley and dried cherries (if using) with some vinaigrette, massaging kale lightly to tenderize it. Top with nut clusters.

Spiced Nut Clusters These nut clusters are addictive and will be good with any variety of nut or a combination of your favorites.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk 1 egg white until foamy. Add 3 tablespoons sugar, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves and mix to combine. Add 1 cup coarsely chopped nuts and toss to coat. Drop small spoonfuls of nut mixture on a parchment-lined baking sheet and cook until golden brown, about 10-15 minutes. Let cool. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for 1-2 weeks. MARCH 2022

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NA IGRETTE

SALADS

EL ON SAL SA

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Tiles courtesy of TileBar @tilebar | tilebar.com

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SALADS

Asian Pear and Radicchio Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette Serves: 6

This salad, one of my mom’s creations, is now in heavy rotation at my house. Use any salad green that you like, such as romaine or Boston lettuce, spinach or arugula. A combination of all will be even better! FO R T H E SA L A D:

⅔ ¼ 3 1 1 2

cup golden raisins cup hot water Juice of 1 lemon cups torn salad greens (see headnote) cup torn radicchio bulb fennel, thinly sliced Asian pears, thinly sliced

FO R T H E C I T RU S V I N A I G R E T T E :

⅓ 3 ½ 1 1 ½

cup oil shallots, thinly sliced cup almonds, coarsely chopped Juice of 2 lemons teaspoon honey teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Mix raisins, hot water and lemon juice and set aside to soak for 15 minutes. 2. To make the vinaigrette, heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add shallots and almonds and sauté for about 4 minutes, until nuts are toasted and shallots are golden brown and translucent. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mixture to a paper towellined plate, reserving oil. Mix reserved oil with lemon juice, honey, salt and pepper. 3. Arrange salad greens, radicchio, fennel and pear on a large platter. Top with strained raisins and the shallot-almond mixture. Drizzle with vinaigrette.

No ragrets vinaigrette 60

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MARCH 2022

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SALADS

Pickled Cucumber Salad Serves: 6

Looking for something fresh and vibrant to add to our first course spread, we went with a classic cucumber salad using pickled onions. The liquid provides a base for the vinaigrette, eliminating that step. Fresh dill (or any fresh herbs, for that matter) adds the perfect finishing touch to make this the perfect accompaniment to a Seder meal.

Elevated Coleslaw Serves: 8

This is for those times when you don’t actually want to be super creative, but need a slightly elevated slaw. NOTE: If making in advance, add the pomegranate seeds and chopped nuts right before serving. FO R T H E C O L E S L AW:

1-2 2 1 62

bags cabbage ribs celery, peeled and thinly sliced green apple, julienned

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By: Shifra Klein

½ 2 1

cup pomegranate seeds scallions, thinly sliced on the bias cup chopped fresh parsley

FO R T H E D R E SS I N G :

½ ½ 3 2 1

cup mayonnaise cup sugar tablespoons lemon juice teaspoons water teaspoon kosher salt

Toss coleslaw ingredients with dressing. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

NOTE: Make this salad up to 48 hours in advance, but add the herbs right before serving. 1 ⅓ ½ ¼ 1 ½

large English cucumber, thinly sliced cup chopped fresh dill cup Pickled Onions (page 51) cup pickled red onion liquid tablespoon olive oil teaspoon kosher salt

Combine all ingredients. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week. www.fleishigs.com

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Sweet and Spicy Watermelon Salsa Serves: 6

Simple ingredients come together for one of the most crowd pleasing salsas I’ve ever served. 3 1 2 ¼

cups cubed seeded watermelon medium cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded and chopped jalapeños, seeded and diced cup diced yellow pepper

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¼ 2 2 ¼ 3 2 1 ¼

n, ur gon b na l e t i t

cup chopped fresh cilantro tablespoons chopped fresh basil tablespoons chopped fresh mint cup lime juice tablespoons brown sugar or coconut sugar tablespoons apple cider vinegar tablespoon honey teaspoon kosher salt

Mix watermelon, cucumber, jalapeños, peppers and herbs. Whisk lime juice, sugar, apple cider vinegar, honey and salt, then drizzle over salad. Toss to coat.

, n r bu

r u

Rivki Rabinowitz is an interior design-trained lifestyle and wellness creator, recipe developer and editor of Mishpacha’s Family Room magazine. Rivki hosts Kale in My Teeth, a podcast where she interviews empowering women. Find her on Instagram @rivkirabinowitz and listen to Kale in My Teeth on Spotify and Apple Podcasts.

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SOUPS

TO GO ALONG with the issue’s theme of simplicity and using minimal processed ingredients, most of the following soup recipes do not utilize any store bought broth. Instead, the focus is on building flavor from within and saving time (if you make your own broth) or money (if you use store bought broth). All of these soups can be made in advance and frozen.

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SOUPS

MARCH 2022

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SOUPS

Mushroom Soup with “Bacon” Bits and Sautéed Mushrooms Serves: 12

By: Chef Hudi Riven

FO R T H E SO U P:

¼ 3 5 2 2 2 3 ½ 2 1

cup oil or schmaltz shallots, thinly sliced cloves garlic, thinly sliced pounds button mushrooms, roughly chopped pounds baby bella mushrooms, roughly chopped teaspoons kosher salt sprigs fresh thyme cup white wine quarts vegetable or chicken broth (15-ounce can) coconut cream Truffle oil, for garnish

FO R T H E “BAC O N” B I TS :

pound beef fry, chopped

FO R T H E SAU T É E D M U S H RO O M S :

1 ½ ¼

pound assorted wild mushrooms, roughly chopped teaspoon kosher salt cup vegetable or chicken broth

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and salt and sauté for 5-10 minutes, until mushrooms release their moisture and shrink in size. 2. Add thyme and stir. Deglaze the pan with white wine, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Allow to reduce slightly, about 10 minutes. Add broth and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, add beef fry to a cold sauté pan over medium-high heat and cook until crispy. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain, reserving the bacon fat in the pan. 4. For the sautéed mushrooms, add wild mushrooms to the pan and sauté for 2 minutes. Add salt and broth. Cover pan with foil and cook for 3 minutes, then uncover and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until liquid is reduced and evaporated. Sauté until mushrooms are caramelized. 5. Using an immersion blender, blend soup until smooth and creamy. While blending, gradually drizzle in coconut cream. If the soup is too thick, thin with additional broth or water, as desired. 6. Ladle soup into bowls and top with “bacon” bits, sautéed mushrooms and a drizzle of truffle oil, if desired.

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SOUPS

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SOUPS

Easiest Creamy Onion Soup Serves: 10

By: Adina Silberman

NOTE: I suggest blending only half the soup, leaving the other half as is to give it a good balance of texture. However, if you prefer a smoother soup, blend the whole thing. Alternatively, leave as is — it will be delicious any which way. ¾ 6 3 1 ¼ S H

⅓ 8

cup olive oil large onions, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced, or 2 teaspoons garlic powder tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup white wine cups water

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, salt and pepper and sauté until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Lower heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until deeply golden brown and caramelized, about 30 minutes. 2. Deglaze the pan with white wine, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil for about 3 minutes. Add water and return to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. 3. Using an immersion blender, blend the soup until desired consistency is reached. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if desired.

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SOUPS

Meat Borscht Serves: 12

By: Roza Adler & Esty Wolbe

Light years apart from that purple stuff in the glass jar in the kosher aisle of the supermarket, this soup, which I grew up eating, is the real deal. Come to think of it, I've never even made it! My mom is the one who lovingly prepares it in bulk and divides it into large containers. Loaded with meat and veggies, it's like a full meal in a bowl. In true Russian mama fashion, this recipe makes a huge batch, so feel free to halve. 2½ 1 2 3 1 3 2 2 2 ½

pounds boneless flanken pound bone-in flanken beets, peeled teaspoons kosher salt, divided Water, to cover head green cabbage, thinly sliced potatoes, peeled and cubed carrots, diced ribs celery, diced bay leaves teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 ½ 6 3 ½

tablespoons oil large onion, diced tablespoons tomato paste cloves garlic, minced bunch fresh dill, chopped

1. Add flanken, beets and 1 teaspoon salt to a large pot or Dutch oven. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 2 hours, until meat is soft. Remove beets and set aside. 2. Add cabbage, potatoes, carrots, celery, bay leaves, pepper and remaining 2 teaspoons salt to the pot, adding more water, as needed. Simmer, covered, until vegetables are fork tender. 3. In the meantime, grate beets using the large holes of a box grater. 4. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté for 3-5 minutes, until lightly golden. Add grated beets and tomato paste. Sauté for another few minutes, then add to the pot and stir to incorporate. Add garlic. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if desired. Serve with fresh dill.

Creamy Borscht Serves: 12

3 1 1 1 1 ½ 8 3 3 1 ¼

By: Adina Silberman

tablespoons oil large onion, chopped leek, white and green parts only, chopped clove garlic, minced tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving cups water beets, peeled and cubed carrots Russet potato, peeled and cubed cup lemon juice Chopped fresh dill, for serving

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions, leeks, garlic, salt and pepper and sauté until lightly golden, 5-8 minutes. 2. Add water, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pot. Add beets, carrots and potatoes. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, until vegetables are fork tender, about 2 hours. 3. Using an immersion blender, blend soup until smooth and creamy. Add lemon juice and blend until incorporated. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if desired. Serve with fresh dill and freshly ground black pepper. MARCH 2022

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SOUPS

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MARCH 2022

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SOUPS

Cauliflower Soup with Sweet Caramelized Onions Serves: 12

¼ 2 2 2 ½ 2 8

By: Adina Silberman

cup olive oil large onions, roughly chopped cloves garlic, minced, or 1 teaspoon garlic powder tablespoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper heads cauliflower, roughly chopped cups water Sweet Caramelized Onions (recipe follows)

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, salt and pepper and sauté until golden brown, 15-20 minutes.

Sweet Caramelized Onions Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add 1 thinly sliced large onion, 1 tablespoon honey and ½ teaspoon kosher salt and sauté until onions are deeply golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Vegetable Soup Serves: 10

¼ 2 2 1 ½ 2 2 2 2 1 8

By: Adina Silberman

cup olive oil large onions, roughly chopped cloves garlic, minced, or 1 teaspoon garlic powder tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups chopped carrots cups chopped celery cups chopped zucchini cups chopped mushrooms cup chopped fresh dill cups water

2. Add cauliflower and sauté for another minute, then add water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 1 hour, until cauliflower is fork tender.

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat. Add onions, garlic, salt and pepper and sauté until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

3. Using an immersion blender, blend soup until smooth. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if desired. Serve with caramelized onions.

2. Add vegetables and dill and sauté for another minute, then add water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 1 hour, until vegetables are fork tender. Taste and season with more salt and pepper as desired. MARCH 2022

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TREND

B Y :

B U T TO N .

C E L E S T E

S H I I TA K E .

H A C K E L

P O RTO B E L LO.

CREMINI.

OYST E R.

Mushrooms come in so many varieties, shapes and sizes and have one thing in common — what they lack in bold, vibrant color, they make up for in health benefits. Those benefits are not just in the rare or wild species, but in regular mushrooms that you find in the supermarket. Versatile and delicious, mushrooms are a nutritious way to add flavor and dimension to any dish, making them a solid side or a stand up main. Their meaty texture, savory umami flavor and ability to crisp up and absorb sauces make them a popular vegan meat replacement — portobello mushroom “steaks,” crispy mushroom “bacon” and shiitake stir fry are a few examples. Though technically a fungus, mushrooms are a low calorie, antioxidant-rich food packed with over a dozen vitamins and minerals that support your immune system, heart health, nervous system, gut health and more. They even contain about 2-3 grams of protein per serving and are easy to incorporate into any diet. Mushrooms are the only non-fortified vegan source of (the precursor to) vitamin D, which many people are deficient in and is necessary for strong bones and immune health. Mushrooms are also an antioxidant powerhouse. They’re rich in selenium and glutathione, which have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties that help the body fight free radicals that may lead to disease. They’re also one of the richest sources of the amino acid ergothioneine, which helps protect against cell and tissue damage. Mushrooms’ nutritional profiles vary slightly depending on the type — white mushrooms have a bit more potassium, calcium and protein, criminis are especially rich in zinc and selenium, oysters and shiitakes have the most fiber, copper PORCINI.

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MARCH 2022

and magnesium and a serving of maitakes has 236% of the RDI for vitamin D! Mushrooms, which are available all year long, are a health food favorite that come in so many forms and can be prepared in a variety of ways. Dried or concentrated forms of the raw counterparts can be stored for longer periods of time and when rehydrated, their nutrition profile is comparable to fresh. Take a trip to a local farmers’ market, Asian market or local gourmet produce shop and you will be met with some really cool mushroom varieties. Most mushrooms work super well when battered and fried (EDITOR’S NOTE: See page 110 for Chef Hudi Riven’s incredible battered mushrooms), king oyster mushrooms are perfect for pan searing and finishing off in a sauce, lion’s mane mushrooms are amazing for braising or roasting, oyster mushrooms are great in stir fries and enoki mushrooms are delicious when lightly dusted in starch and fried for a crunchy topping to soups. So enjoy your favorites, try some new ones and reap the benefits.

Celeste Hackel has a health coach certification from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition, a master’s degree in Organizational Psychology from Columbia University and a lifelong passion for health and wellness. Her mission to simplify healthy living, cooking and nutrition inspires her recipes, line of healthy treats, e-book and media contributions. Follow Celeste on Instagram @healthy.to.the.core where she shares easy, nutritious recipes and health tips. www.fleishigs.com

TREND ALERT: Nowadays, mushrooms are being marketed way beyond their use in savory dishes. You can find mushroom supplements and even the latest mushroom trend — a mushroom latte blend made up of a variety of powdered mushrooms — as a super food alternative to coffee!

M US H RO O M S A R E R I C H I N : B vitamins (like folate), which support energy metabolism, fetal development, heart health, the nervous system and healthy skin. Potassium, which is important for electrolyte balance and healthy blood pressure. Copper, which supports red blood cell development and helps iron absorption. Zinc, which is vital for the immune system and contains other essential nutrients like choline, important for learning and memory. Magnesium, which supports muscle and nerve function.

MARCH 2022

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FISH

WHEN IT COMES to cooking in advance, fish is in an entirely different category than lowand-slow braises, roasts and kugels that can be made ahead of time and stored in the freezer with great results. According to fish expert Moshe Schonfeld, of New York-based family-owned fish company Ossie’s, the general consensus is that fish is best made fresh. However, by working strategically, there are some tips you can follow to successfully prepare fish in advance:

• Pickled fish is an ideal dish to make in advance, as it can last in the fridge for at least a week. It’s also extremely easy to double or triple to serve a crowd. Try Chef Yos Schwartz’s pickled salmon recipe from issue #7, available on the Fleishigs app. • Rather than freezing cooked fish, marinate and freeze the fish raw, then thaw and cook when ready to serve. If you prefer to cook and then freeze, a saucier recipe would work best for this. See below for Naomi Nachman’s saucy salmon recipe that can be cooked and frozen in the sauce. • Cooked fish patties and breaded fried fish also freeze well and can be made in advance. See below for Naomi’s fish cake recipe, which froze and defrosted beautifully. • For a no-cook fish fix, canned fish is a classic pantry staple, especially for Pesach. See below for Mozelle Goldstein’s tuna salad — the perfect Chol Hamoed lunch.

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FREEZING FRESH FISH: 1. Fattier fish, like salmon and seabass, freeze best. 2. Ask your fishmonger to vacuum seal individual fillets of fish or in portions that are convenient for you. 3. Use frozen fish within 6 months for best results. 4. For poke or sushi, most fishmongers will cube sushi-grade salmon or tuna for you and vacuum seal it for the freezer. Alternatively, freeze fillets for 30 minutes until lightly firm, then cube with a very sharp knife. Seal tightly in a freezer-safe Ziploc bag, getting as much air out as possible. Defrost in the fridge for at least 12 hours before you plan to use it (or overnight).

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FISH

Gefilte Fish Patties Yield: 10-12 patties

By: Naomi Nachman

To freeze, arrange cooked patties in a single layer on a baking sheet. Once frozen solid, transfer to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag or airtight container. 1 ½ ½ 1 2

loaf gefilte fish, defrosted cup chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley, dill and cilantro) cayenne pepper egg, beaten cups kosher for Pesach panko breadcrumbs, divided Oil, for frying Remoulade Dipping Sauce, for serving

1. Mix fish, herbs, cayenne pepper, egg and ⅓ cup panko breadcrumbs. 2. Pour remaining breadcrumbs into a shallow bowl. Form fish mixture into small patties, then coat both sides in the breadcrumbs. Refrigerate on a baking sheet for 30 minutes. 3. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Fry fish patties for 2-3 minutes per side, until cooked through. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

Tangy Remoulade Yield: 1¾ cups

NOTE: This recipe yields plenty of sauce. Set some aside to use as a dip for schnitzel as well. Mix 1¼ cups mayonnaise, ¼ cup ketchup, 1 tablespoon sweet paprika, 2 teaspoons prepared white horseradish, 1 teaspoon pickle juice or vinegar, 1 teaspoon hot sauce and 1 minced garlic clove.

Lemony Tuna Salad Serves: 8

By: Mozelle Goldstein

Believe it or not, this tuna salad is one of the most popular recipes on my Instagram page, @sy_in_li, and my top go-to lunch all year long. During the year, I typically omit the mayonnaise and use Dijon mustard for creaminess and tang. For Pesach, however, mayonnaise is definitely the way to go, as opposed to imitation Pesach mustard! It may seem basic to talk about a tuna salad recipe, but this elevated version is a great addition to a light Yom Tov lunch or easy Chol Hamoed lunch. EDITOR’S NOTE: Tuna packed in olive oil is far superior in flavor and texture than tuna packed in water. We love Tuscanini Ventresca, which is certified kosher for Pesach by OU. 82

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MARCH 2022

2 ⅓ 1 1 1 1 ½

(6-ounce) jars tuna packed in olive oil, drained, reserving 1 tablespoon olive oil cup chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley or cilantro) tablespoon mayonnaise Zest and juice of 2 lemons small red onion, diced tablespoon capers teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chopped lemon, for garnish (optional)

Chop tuna as desired. Add reserved olive oil, herbs, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice, red onions, capers, salt and pepper. Mix until combined. Garnish with chopped lemon. www.fleishigs.com

FISH

MARCH 2022

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FISH

Brined Roasted Salmon Serves: 6

Garlicky Tomato Salmon Serves: 8

By: Naomi Nachman

The same way saucy meatballs and stuffed cabbage freeze incredibly well, this fish is no different and tastes just as good after being frozen as it does when made fresh. I highly recommend doubling this recipe or MOFO — make one and freeze one. NOTE: The sauce, which freezes well on its own, is delicious over zucchini noodles or as a pizza sauce. FO R T H E GA R L I C K Y TO M ATO SAU C E :

¼ 24 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 84

cup olive oil cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (28-ounce) cans whole peeled tomatoes, drained and blended cup dry red wine teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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FO R T H E SA L M O N :

8 2 1 1 ½

(6-ounce) salmon fillets tablespoons olive oil teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Fresh parsley, for garnish

1. For the sauce, heat oil in a large sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and sauté for another minute, until fragrant. Add tomato purée, red wine, salt and pepper. Cook uncovered until thickened, stirring occasionally, 20-25 minutes. 2. Preheat oven to 375°F. Arrange salmon in an oven-safe dish, drizzle with olive oil and season with garlic powder, salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Pour sauce over salmon and cook for an additional 10 minutes. Garnish with fresh parsley.

By: Steven Weinberger

The ratio for the brine here is 1 tablespoon salt per cup of water — feel free to scale the quantity up or down as needed. Read more about the brining technique on page 84. 4 4 6 2 1 1

cups cold water tablespoons kosher salt (6-ounce) salmon fillets tablespoons olive oil teaspoon garlic powder tablespoon brown sugar

1. Mix water and salt in a medium-sized shallow dish (one that will allow salmon to be fully submerged in brine) until dissolved, then add salmon and refrigerate for 30-60 minutes. 2. Preheat oven to 450°F. Transfer salmon from brine to a baking sheet. Pat dry, then brush with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic powder and brown sugar. Roast for about 10 minutes, until cooked through. www.fleishigs.com

FISH

Matzah Tuna Nachos Serves: 4-6

By: Naomi Nachman

If you don’t eat gebrokts on Pesach, use a gluten-free matzah. 4 ½

sheets matzah cup olive oil

6 ½ ¼ 1 2 1 3 1

cloves garlic, minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cayenne pepper pound sushi-grade tuna, cubed avocados, diced mango, diced scallions, minced cup Pesach salsa, optional

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange matzah on a baking sheet. 2. Mix olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper and brush on the matzah. Cook for 10 minutes. Let cool, then break into bite-size pieces. 3. Arrange matzah pieces on a large platter and top with tuna, avocados, mango and scallions. Serve with salsa, if desired.

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OSSO BUCCO IS one of our favorite holiday cuts. The name literally means “bone with a hole” in Italian (osso meaning "bone" and bucco meaning "hole”). Each piece is a cross-cut of a beef or veal shank, so it includes a large marrow bone in the center of the meat. The leg muscles wrap up and around the bone; when cross cut, they need to be netted to stay together. After a long, slow braise, the texture of the meat becomes silky and rich and the flavor, boosted by whatever aromatics you braise alongside it, becomes earthy and meaty in the best way. Prepare osso bucco as you would a pot roast — sear the meat, sauté carrots and celery, deglaze with broth and wine, then add

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tomatoes. Keep the pieces netted until after cooking, then remove before serving. The muscles get a lot of work, so they need a long, slow braise to become tender. You’ll know they’re done when the meat starts to fall off the bone and can be easily pulled with a fork. You can serve one osso bucco per person (for a very hearty serving) or share them. Some of the meat will fall completely off the bone as it braises, making it easier to portion smaller amounts. The magic extends beyond the meat itself. Because of the marrow bones, the cooking liquid that is produced from the long braise is very rich and flavorful — spoon it over the meat to serve and save any leftovers to form the base of a soup or cholent.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premiumquality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Classic Braised Osso Bucco Serves: 6

6 1 1 ¼ ⅓ 2 1 2 1 6 3 1 1½

By: Shifra Klein

pieces beef osso bucco, tied around the middle horizontally teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup neutral oil cup potato starch tablespoons ground dried mushrooms, optional (page 50) large Spanish onion, diced carrots, diced bulb fennel, diced, ends discarded cloves garlic, minced tablespoons tomato paste cup dry white wine cups chicken broth Pistachio Gremolata, for serving (page 108)

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Season osso bucco with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Dredge the flat sides of the osso bucco in potato starch mixed with mushroom powder, if using, then sear until golden brown and caramelized, 5 minutes per side. Transfer meat to a plate.

Tomato-Braised Osso Bucco Serves: 6

6 1 1 ¼ ⅓ 1 2 1 ½ 3

By: Shifra Klein

pieces beef osso bucco, tied around the middle horizontally teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup neutral oil cup potato starch large Spanish onion, diced carrots, diced bulb fennel, diced, ends discarded (reserve fennel fronds for garnish) cup red wine cups Garlicky Tomato Sauce (page 84)

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Season osso bucco with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Dredge the flat sides of the osso bucco in potato starch, then sear until

golden brown and caramelized, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer meat to a plate. 2. Add onions to the pot and sauté for 10 minutes. Add carrots and fennel and sauté for another 5 minutes. 3. Deglaze the pan with wine, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon, then add tomato sauce. Return osso bucco to the pot and spoon some of the sauce over the meat. Cover tightly and braise for 3 hours. Garnish with reserved fennel fronds. SERVE IT UP: • Serve as is — it will be perfectly delicious! • Remove meat from pan, then strain liquid and discard solids. Reduce liquid over high heat until sauce thickens. • Remove meat from pan, then purée sauce using an immersion blender. Pour over meat.

2. Add onions to the pot and sauté for 10 minutes. Add carrots and fennel and sauté for another 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and sauté for 10 minutes, until vegetables are all coated. 3. Deglaze the pan with wine and broth, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return osso bucco to the pot and spoon some of the sauce over the meat. Cover tightly and braise for 3 hours. 4. To serve, remove the nets from the osso bucco and arrange on a platter. Spoon sauce over. Top with gremolata.

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MAINS

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MAINS

Dry-Brined Short Rib Roast Serves: 4

By: Chef Isaac Bernstein

T O R S H

SHIFRA’S NOTE: This recipe, which was originally published in our 2019 restaurant issue (issue #4), is surprisingly simple and one of the best meat dishes we’ve ever had. It is also ideal for Pesach as it only requires three basic ingredients — a 3-bone flanken roast, salt and pepper. I like to keep bone-in meat simple and let the flavor that develops from that slow roast on the bone speak for itself. This meat is a centerpiece, a main attraction, and although it’s a simple recipe, it’s important to get right. CHEF ISAAC’S NOTES:

R I B S

• There is no alternative to a 3-bone short rib roast — it’s in a field of its own. However, you can use the same method with a French roast.

T H A T

• Cook the meat until it's tender, but not shredding. This isn’t brisket!

G O

1 2 1

(4-pound) 3-bone short rib or flanken roast teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Liberally season roast with salt and pepper and place on a cooling rack over a baking sheet. Refrigerate, uncovered, overnight.

L O N G

2. Let roast come to room temperature before cooking. Cook in a 275°F oven for 3 hours, until roast has a nice crust and meat is falling off the bone. 3. After the meat rests, pull the bones out, then carve

or portion and serve.

A Y

S E RV I N G O P T I O N S :

• Serve roast on a wooden board with some heads of roasted garlic, pickled red onions (page 51), pickled mushrooms (page 51) and lots of chopped fresh parsley. • Elevate the roast by rubbing with a spice blend, such as hawaij, instead of just salt and pepper. Serve over cauliflower or parsnip purée. • Glaze it with your favorite sauce and cook for 5-10 minutes in a 400°F oven until slightly caramelized. You can make a sauce or relish from scratch or use a store bought version.

Crispy Coconut Chicken with Mango-Lime Dipping Sauce Serves: 4-6

By: Adina Silberman

This is a tropical spin on classic schnitzel and is a huge hit. The sweet and tangy sauce is the perfect accompaniment and will transport you to a tropical island. 2 ½ 2 1¾ 1 1 ¼

boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into thin tenders cup potato starch eggs, beaten cups unsweetened coconut flakes teaspoon paprika teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil, for frying Mango-Lime Dipping Sauce (recipe follows), for serving Lime wedges, for serving

1. Prepare a dredging station by adding potato starch to one bowl, whisked eggs to a second bowl and coconut flakes mixed with spices to a third bowl. Dredge chicken in potato starch, then egg and finally into the coconut mixture. 2. Heat ½ inch of oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat and fry chicken for 2-3 minutes per side. 3. Transfer to a wire cooling rack or paper towel-lined plate. Serve with dipping sauce and lime wedges.

Mango-Lime Dipping Sauce Blend the flesh of 2 very ripe mangos, ¼ cup fresh mint, the zest of 1 lime and juice of 2 limes, ½ cup water, a 1-inch piece of jalapeño, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

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MAINS

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MAINS

Chicken “Sushi” Serves: 10

By: Esty Wolbe

This recipe was originally made with sushi rice in the center, hence the name. Potato kugel took its place to make it Pesach-friendly and everyone in the family agreed it was even more delicious that way. This recipe works really well with leftover potato kugel but if you don't have any on hand and aren't in the mood to make one, feel free to use mashed potatoes or pre-cooked quinoa. 1 10 10 1 1 1 3-4

(8x8-inch pan) pre-cooked potato kugel boneless, skinless chicken thighs large slices pastrami large bag potato chips, crushed teaspoon paprika teaspoon garlic powder tablespoons mayonnaise Spicy mayo, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Slice potato kugel into logs about as long as the chicken cutlets are wide. Trim off the crusts and round the corners. 2. Working with one at a time, lay the chicken down on a work surface with the smooth side down. Top with a slice of pastrami, trimming length if needed. Place a kugel log in the center of the pastrami and roll the kugel up in the pastrami. Then, roll the chicken around the pastrami-kugel roll. Place, seam side down, on a parchmentlined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining pargiyot. 3. In a dish, mix crushed chips with paprika and garlic powder. Coat chicken rolls in mayonnaise, then roll, one at a time, in the crushed chips. Return to the baking sheet and cook, uncovered, until golden brown, about 40 minutes. 4. Slice like a sushi roll and serve with spicy mayo. MARCH 2022

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MAINS

Chicken with Fennel and Prunes Serves: 4-6

By: Adina Silberman

This is the perfect recipe for those looking for an updated version of classic roast chicken. The fennel mellows as it roasts, becoming sweet and losing most of its anise flavor, but if you don’t like fennel, use cabbage instead. 4 2

1 6 1 1

⅓ ¼ ¼ 2 ½ 2

chicken bottoms bulb fennel, ends removed, cut into wedges large onion, cut into wedges cloves garlic cup pitted prunes cup fresh dill, roughly chopped, plus more for garnish cup prune juice cup olive oil cup lemon juice teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoons paprika

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Toss chicken, fennel, onions, garlic and prunes with remaining ingredients until fully coated. Transfer to a roasting pan, arranging chicken on top of the vegetables. Seal tightly with foil and cook for 2 hours. 2. Increase oven temperature to 425°F and roast, uncovered, for an additional 30-40 minutes, until chicken skin is crisp and golden. Garnish with fresh dill.

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STORY

B Y : D E V O R A H B A C K M A N

THE SAYING GOES, “If you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life.” Turns out, for a private chef, that aphorism is both true and false at the same time — the passion, love and creativity they bring to their jobs makes it unlike nearly any other, while at the same time, every gig requires hours upon hours of intense physical and mental effort. “I love what I do. I enjoy every minute in the kitchen, truly,” says Tzippy Adelhaid. Aviva Friedman echoed this sentiment. “It’s fun if you love it, but it’s also always hard,” she says. These are just two of the kosher traveling chefs with whom I spoke to get a better look at how this industry has grown in recent years. This growth can be attributed to several factors — increasingly sophisticated kosher travelers looking 98

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to enjoy gourmet cuisine even in far-flung destinations; busy families gathering for holidays, sheva brachot and other special events without the time or ability to cook themselves; and finally, the pandemic that shut fine dining down for months and left diners looking for other ways to recreate that restaurant experience safely. Outside of a restaurant setting, the kind of work that chefs do varies greatly. A personal chef typically prepares food in a commercial kitchen or in the client’s home, stocking the fridge with enough food made according to the client’s needs. A private chef often works on call, making fresh food to order throughout the day. Other traveling chefs might provide upscale catering services for inhome parties, while others specialize in restaurant-style tasting menus served to a small group of diners at home. No two chefs have had the same journey into this industry, and yet for each of them, their background informs and influences the way they cook today. Some attended prestigious culinary academies, some worked in restaurants and others just learned through apprenticeships or experience. Tzippy Adelhaid began cooking for a few clients after emigrating from Israel to the United States — eventually her operation grew and she now provides full holiday catering, on-site travel chef services and Shabbat packages in her current home of Miami, all while staying true to the homey, down-to-earth style that reflects her Israeli and Hungarian background. Eli Redlich, another self-taught chef, always had a knack for chemistry, which led him towards both the world of fine dining as well as pre-med courses in college. He currently balances both careers, offering multi-course dinner parties during downtime in his course schedule. He points out that as much as cooking is an art, it’s also a science. “I don’t think I understood that fully until I took organic chemistry,” he laughs. “Take something like osmosis. That’s what’s happening when you salt a steak! And that’s why it’s important to salt www.fleishigs.com

Photography Credit: Levik Hertzel Studios

STORY

Tzippy Adelhaid (@cheftzippy)

meat in advance, because only once the inside and outside of the steak reach equilibrium through osmosis will you have a piece of meat that is seasoned all the way through.” Other chefs I spoke to were drawn to the private chef industry because it offered a better work-life balance than a classic restaurant job. Aviva Friedman has the resume of a fine dining chef — she attended the Culinary Institute of America and did stages (culinary internships) at Basil, Mike’s Bistro and ETC Steakhouse. But by the time her second child was born, she transitioned out of the restaurant kitchen in search for a more flexible, accommodating career. She began a high-end, in-home catering business, handling everything from a romantic dinner for two to a cocktail party for 200. She points

out that while fine dining may look glamorous on social media, the reality is quite a different story. “The days of the diva in the kitchen are extremely over,” she says. “This is professional and serious. I spend 18 hours on my feet, wearing ugly kitchen shoes.” While her kitchen may be professional and serious, the dishes Aviva loves to create for her clients are more playful and experimental — past dinners have included buffalo sweetbreads with green goddess ranch and pickled celery; bao buns stuffed with braised and fried tongue; and even a hazelnut chocolate truffle stuffed with foie gras. Cookbook author and kosher food personality Naomi Nachman has been in the private catering business longer than nearly anyone else in the kosher industry. “I’m the OG,” she jokes. Nearly

20 years ago, Naomi jumped headfirst into a new career by placing an ad in a local newspaper that said “Pesach chef available.” “The phone hasn’t stopped ringing since,” she says. She’s become so well known for her Pesach recipes that she published a cookbook, Perfect for Pesach, and still provides full catering for the holiday out of her home Pesach kitchen. Despite being a pioneer in the kosher food industry all year long, when it comes to Pesach, Naomi sticks with the classics. “When I cook for clients for Pesach, they are looking for traditional — brisket, roast, potato kugel. All year people might love innovation, but on Pesach they want what Bubby used to make.” Despite her growing celebrity in the kosher food world (she now travels all over the world giving cooking classes and MARCH 2022

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Eli Redlich (@thechefeli)

hosting Chopped-style competitions), Naomi keeps it small and personal when it comes to Pesach. “I never want to expand beyond what I can handle in my own kitchen,” she says. Along with co-chef Suzie Gornish and fellow food 100

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blogger Melinda Strauss handling the baking, Nachman stocks the freezer for about 25 local families with everything from soups and meats to desserts. Former restaurant owner Itta Werdiger stays true to her

farm-to-table approach when cooking for clients, with an upscale, artistic touch that is all her own. “I like to present each plate like a painting that also tastes amazing,” she says. Working seasonally is another creative challenge she embraces. “In the summer, it’s easy, but in the winter you really need to push to be imaginative with produce like turnip and celery root. But I believe that when food is local, it is more nutritious and just tastes better.” How does Itta turn humble root vegetables into haute cuisine? She mentions a recent standout dish — hamachi crudo featuring turnip purée, pickled daikon radish and lime. To be sure, hiring a chef is not an inexpensive choice, whether it’s for Pesach or a birthday dinner. But compared to a Pesach hotel program or a reservation at a top eatery, it can be a surprisingly competitive option, while offering a lot more flexibility and privacy. A plated dinner can range anywhere from $150 to $1,000 per person, depending on the experience level of the chef and the ingredients chosen. At this price point, most chefs will bring everything needed and will prep, serve and clean up with their own staff. Other chefs provide a shopping list to the client and take care of the cooking only — this can work as an hourly fee or a flat rate, with prices typically starting about $1,500 per job. “I’ve never wanted my food to be inaccessible,” says Itta. “Really great food with good ingredients doesn’t have to be black tie.” At the same time, she emphasizes that chefs need to know their worth and charge enough for their time, energy and expertise in order to make a living. For those who have never worked with one before, the thought of hiring a private chef might seem intimidating or unimaginably bougie. But with today’s busy lifestyles and large www.fleishigs.com

STORY

multigenerational families, hiring someone to step in and roll up their sleeves in the kitchen can be one way to make a family gathering a bit more special without the stress. “My clients are like my family,” Tzippy says. “No matter what their tastes or dietary needs are, whether it’s gluten-free, sugar-free, whatever it is, I work with them to adapt my recipes and cook exactly what they need.” While most of the time Tzippy provides ready-to-serve Shabbat and holiday packages or cooks in a client’s home before the holiday begins, she also travels with some VIP clients to their vacation destinations — Orlando, Los Angeles, Virginia Beach or even Playa del Carmen — and coordinates the entire holiday from start to finish. “Pesach is one of the hardest holidays to cook for, but also the most rewarding,” Tzippy explains. She cooks for every holiday, of course, but is best known for her Pesach specialty dishes, such as flanken butternut squash soup, lamb shanks with rosemary and thyme and her famous Pesach blintzes. Gearing up for yet another busy Pesach season, Tzippy is energized and excited. Yes, her job involves 12+ hour days and multiple cross-country flights, but she says she can’t imagine doing anything else. “When you put food in front of someone, you become friends immediately,” she says. “I just want my clients to have the joy without the work.” Naomi agrees, emphasizing that her job is not just to provide delicious food, but to take away some of the stress of hosting a big Yom Tov with the entire extended family. “It takes the pressure off,” she says. While she might spend her Pesach at a hotel program these days with family, her heart is still in every plate of brisket and every bowl of chicken soup she delivers. “No matter where I am in the world,” she says, “it’s like I am sitting down to 25 beautiful Sedarim every year — and nothing could make me happier.”

STEP UP YOUR NEXT DINNER PARTY WITH TIPS FROM THE PROS Chef Tzippy: • Use the freshest ingredients possible — fresh herbs and freshly ground black pepper make a big difference in the finished result. • Start with a big batch of chicken stock and use that in everything for extra flavor. • Most importantly, cook from your heart.

Chef Aviva: • Serve a batched cocktail instead of shaking cocktails individually over ice. A pretty garnish goes a long way. • Whatever can be done in advance should be done in advance. • For the best bang for your buck in terms of decor, fill bud vases with small florals. • If you want to impress guests without stress, choose duck! Confit duck legs are pretty foolproof, but are delicious and so impressive.

Chef Eli: • Pick a dish you love and make it a few times until you really understand how it works and how to execute it properly — and only then prepare it for guests. • Ambiance is everything — setting the table with candles, real cloth napkins, real cutlery and nice serveware makes a big difference. • Sous vide is an incredible tool that is now available to the home cook. You can make a great steak, duck breast and even try a homemade beef porchetta.

Chef Itta: • Take a tip from the restaurant industry and designate specific people as “front of house” and “back of house.” That means that while you are finalizing and plating the food, your spouse, friend or even a hired helper is lighting the candles, adjusting the music and taking your guests’ coats. • When possible, serve plated dishes rather than family style — you have more control of how all the elements work together and you can make it really beautiful.

Chef Naomi: • Buy my cookbook Perfect for Pesach! The whole book is full of tips that are great for Pesach and hosting all throughout the year.

Devorah Backman has two children, lives in Teaneck, NJ and works as a publicist in the kitchenware and book publishing industries. Together with her sister Chana Z. Weiss, she showcases her love of cooking and entertaining on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

• Source good quality ingredients – fresh lemon juice, fresh garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, American beef — it all makes a difference. • Don’t sweat the small stuff. People put a lot of pressure on themselves, especially around Jewish holidays. You don’t need a huge menu with a dozen dishes; just focus on what you can do well and don’t worry about the rest.

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Cause a racket

Beef and Mushroom Stuffed Kabocha Squash Serves: 6

By: Tzippy Adelhaid

Braising cheek meat yields extremely tender and flavorful results. In this recipe, a little meat goes a long way because the mushrooms, chestnuts and kabocha squash add bulk. It’s a great way to serve meat to a crowd at an affordable price point. However, for a meatier filling, simply add more cheek meat. 2-3 2 6 1 3 1 1 1 ¼ 1½ 2 2 2 1

pounds cheek meat cups sliced mushrooms cloves garlic (3½-ounce) bag roasted chestnuts sprigs fresh thyme teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon sweet paprika teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon cinnamon cups chicken broth kabocha squashes tablespoons olive oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish Pomegranate seeds, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Add cheek meat to a braising pan and scatter mushrooms, garlic, chestnuts and thyme around it. Mix spices in a small bowl, then season both sides of the meat. Pour chicken broth around the meat. 2. Cover with parchment paper and two layers of aluminum foil, which will keep the steam inside, preventing the meat from drying out. Cook for 3

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hours, until meat is fork tender. 3. Meanwhile, cut the top off the squash and remove all seeds. Drizzle olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast on a baking sheet for about 45 minutes, under fork tender. 4. Pull the meat using two forks and fill kabocha squash with meat, mushroom and chestnut mixture. Garnish with cilantro and pomegranate seeds.

Pesach Blintzes Yields: 12 blintzes

By: Tzippy Adelhaid

These all-purpose Pesach blintzes can be filled with anything from sweet cheese to savory meat. You can also add different ingredients to the batter, such as scallions, black pepper or cinnamon. My secret to this classic Pesach staple is seltzer, which yields a fluffier result, but you can use water instead. 8 ½ ½ 1 ½

eggs cup potato starch cup seltzer tablespoon oil, plus more for frying teaspoon kosher salt

1. Beat eggs and potato starch until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add seltzer, oil and salt and beat until smooth. 2. Heat a thin layer of oil in a crêpe pan over medium heat. Pour ¼ cupfuls of batter into the pan, swirling batter into a thin layer. Cook until just firm, then flip and continue to cook until set. Slice into noodles or use as blintzes. www.fleishigs.com

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SIDES

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SIDES

Zucchini with Pistachio Gremolata

Roasted Cabbage and Cauliflower with Almonds

Serves: 8

6 ¼ 1

By: Adina Silberman

zucchinis, ends removed and halved lengthwise cup olive oil teaspoon kosher salt Pistachio Gremolata, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and grease with nonstick cooking spray.

cup olive oil head cabbage, cut into 2-inch wedges head cauliflower, cut into florets teaspoons kosher salt, divided cup natural almond butter tablespoons warm water cup olive oil tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoons toasted slivered almonds

2. Toss zucchini halves with oil and salt and arrange, cut side down, on the baking sheet. Roast for 30-35 minutes, until golden. Serve with gremolata.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Drizzle olive oil onto a baking sheet and top with cabbage and cauliflower. Season with 1 teaspoon salt. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 1½ hours. Increase oven temperature to 425°F and roast, uncovered, for another 15-20 minutes, until edges begin to crisp.

Pistachio Gremolata

2. While cabbage and cauliflower are cooking, whisk almond butter and water until smooth. Add olive oil, balsamic vinegar and remaining 1 teaspoon salt and whisk until smooth. Add more water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, to reach desired consistency — sauce should be thick, but still pourable.

Mix 1 cup chopped fresh parsley, 1 minced garlic clove, ¼ cup finely chopped pistachios, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

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¼ ½ 1 2 ¼ 2 ¼ 2 2

By: Adina Silberman

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3. Arrange roasted cabbage and cauliflower on a large platter and drizzle with sauce. Top with slivered almonds.

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SIDES

Caramelized Onion Spaghetti Squash Kugel Serves: 12-16

By: Shifra Klein

To achieve a crispy bottom, this recipe comes out best when baked in a glass or ceramic dish. To make it even crispier, invert the kugel once it’s cooked and roast in a 450°F oven for 10-15 minutes. 1 large spaghetti squash ¼ + ⅓ cup oil, divided

2 6 2

large onions eggs teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and grease with nonstick cooking spray. 2. Slice squash in half, remove seeds and prick all over with a fork. Roast on the baking sheet, cut side down, for 40 minutes, until fork tender. Once cool, shred with two forks.

3. While squash is roasting, heat ¼ cup oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, about 25 minutes. 4. Pour remaining ⅓ cup oil in the bottom of a 9x13-inch glass baking dish and place in the oven. 5. Whisk eggs and add onions, spaghetti squash and 1 teaspoon salt. Carefully pour batter into the preheated pan. Sprinkle the top with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and bake for 50 minutes, until the center is set.

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Fried King Oyster Mushrooms With Scallions and Peppers Serves: 6

5 2 1½

1 1 ½ 1 1 1

By: Chef Hudi Riven

king oyster mushrooms, halved lengthwise teaspoons kosher salt, divided cups kosher for Pesach gluten-free flour blend (such as Rorie’s), divided cup ice cold water large egg, beaten Oil, for frying teaspoon freshly ground black pepper bunch scallions, thinly sliced on the bias red bell pepper, diced Hungarian long hot pepper, diced

1. Place mushrooms in a strainer and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Set aside for 10-15 minutes; the salt will bring the moisture out of the mushrooms, which will yield a crispier, meatier texture. 2. Heat oil in a deep sauté pan to 335°F. Whisk 1 cup flour, ice cold water and egg. Pat mushrooms dry and toss in remaining ½ cup flour. Shake off excess, then dip in batter. 3. Fry for about 2 minutes, until golden and crispy. Transfer to a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and season immediately with pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. 4. Mix scallions and peppers and serve with mushrooms.

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B Y :

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S T E V E N

W E I N B E R G E R

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STAPLE

salt

is a key ingredient that can be found in everyone’s kitchen. Properly seasoning food with salt is an important skill in cooking, but we could fill a book with the myriad of uses for salt in the kitchen.

The following three salt techniques are great for Pesach:

Baking in a Salt Crust THE EARLIEST RECORD of a recipe being cooked in a salt crust is from the writings of a Greek poet in the 4th century BCE. By cooking food inside a crust of salt, the moist quality of the dish is retained while being protected from the heat of the oven. The method is similar to the French method of cooking called en papillote (sealed in parchment paper), which keeps the flavor concentrated in the package, keeping the food moist. You may think that cooking this way results in dishes that are too heavily salted, but if the crust is removed carefully, you will find that the dishes are perfectly seasoned. A basic salt crust can be made with 8 cups of kosher salt and 12 large egg whites. Avoid getting any yolk in the mixture, but a small amount of yolk will not cause any problems. Mix the crust mixture with clean or gloved hands until a uniform mixture, similar to wet sand, forms. You should be able to squeeze it into a ball that doesn’t fall apart and doesn’t drip egg whites. With experience, you will recognize when you need to add more salt or more egg whites to achieve the right texture.

Brining Fish IF YOU ARE a fan of baked fish, then this method will quickly become part of your culinary repertoire. Baked fish can easily become tough and dry and oily fish,

such as salmon, will exude unsightly white goo (albumin) when baked. Soaking fish fillets and steaks in a brine for as little as 30 minutes before cooking can help solve all of these issues. A brined piece of fish will stay juicy and tender while also being seasoned quite nicely! The process is simple. See page 84 for Brined Roasted Salmon.

Dry Brining WHILE “BRINE” BY definition means liquid, no liquids are required for dry brining. Dry brining whole muscle roasts (such as a nice silvertip roast) results in a more tender, well-seasoned roast. Take note of the weight of the piece of meat and measure ½ teaspoon kosher salt per pound of meat. Apply the salt on all sides of the meat, making sure it is evenly applied. Place the roast on a drying rack over a baking sheet to allow air to circulate around the roast. Refrigerate, uncovered, overnight. As the meat rests, the salt will pull out the moisture contained within, then slowly return it into the meat. The salt breaks down the muscle tissue just like it does for the fish, resulting in a more tender final product. After being refrigerated, cook the roast in the oven or sous vide. See page 93 for Dry-Brined Short Rib Roast.

We used Diamond Crystal kosher salt. Its texture is important to the results, so if you want to use another brand of kosher salt, you may need to experiment. Never use iodized table salt — the results will be far too salty to eat.

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Salt-Crusted Vegetables Serves: 6

Once mastered, this technique can be used with a whole chicken. Any food that can be peeled or skinned after cooking can be baked in a salt crust. NOTES: • Use root vegetables with a peel that are around the size of large golf balls. Beets are the most commonly used vegetable for this application, but potatoes, turnips and celeriac work as well. Thicker carrots and parsnips can also be used, but you will need to cut them into lengths to match the other vegetables. • It will take some practice to get the crust just thick enough to encase the vegetables without being too thick and wasteful. • Traditional roasting provides a golden brown color, thus creating more intense flavors. While the salt crust technique doesn’t allow the vegetables to brown, you’ll find that their flavors are enhanced as they retain their moisture better this way. • Once you remove the salt crust, serve vegetables as is or drizzle with gremolata, pesto or nut butter sauce. You can also peel, slice and add to salads. • Adjust the quantities (double or halve) as needed. 3 114

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note) cups kosher salt egg whites tablespoons finely minced fresh thyme or rosemary leaves, optional

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease 2 baking sheets with a thin coating of oil. 2. Prepare 2 pounds of root vegetables by washing thoroughly (do not peel) and removing any greens or root ends. Dry thoroughly. 3. Mix salt and egg whites until incorporated. Add fresh herbs, if desired. 4. Wrap vegetables in the salt mixture until fully encased and arrange on the prepared baking sheets. 5. Cook for 45 minutes. The crust will harden and turn golden brown. Let cool for 10 minutes. Using the back of a metal spoon, crack the salt crust of each vegetable with a swift crack, then peel away the salt crust. Discard the peels (they should slide right off) and salt crust. Serve as is.

Salt-Crusted Chicken Serves: 4

This method for cooking a whole chicken results in a fantastic bit of theatrics — bringing the encapsulated bird to the table and cracking the crust to expose the chicken makes a great show. Baking a chicken this way will result in a super juicy bird. Unfortunately, the chicken skin lovers are left out, since the skin will be flaccid and probably too salty to eat, but I’m sure the juiciness of

the chicken will win them over anyway. 8 12 1 1 6

cups kosher salt egg whites (3-4-pound) chicken, legs trussed teaspoon freshly ground black pepper sprigs fresh tarragon

1. Prepare oven to 400°F. Lightly grease a roasting pan or baking sheet. 2. Season the cavity of the chicken with pepper and place tarragon inside. 3. Mix salt and egg whites until incorporated. Pack a ½-inch thick bed of the salt mixture (a little larger than the size of the chicken) on the baking sheet. Top with chicken, then pack the rest of the salt mixture over the chicken, making sure to encase it completely. Cook for 75 minutes, until a thermometer stuck through the salt crust registers to 165°F. 4. Let chicken rest until slightly cool, about 15 minutes. The crust helps retain heat, so the chicken will still be nice and warm on the inside. Using the back of a metal spoon, crack the salt crust of each vegetable with a swift crack, then peel away the salt crust. Discard chicken skin and salt crust. Slice and serve as is.

Steven Weinberger is a selftaught chef, kitchen experimenter and KCBS-certified kosher BBQ judge. Find him at kosher BBQ competitions or on Instagram @psycomp. www.fleishigs.com

CHOLENT REDO

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CHOLENT REDO

EINAT ADMONY is an Israeliborn chef who has made a tremendous impact on the New York City dining scene, modernizing Israeli food in America with her profile of famed restaurants. Her latest achievement as James Beard award nominee for Best Chef: New York State speaks to her unique influence. Einat’s overnight eggplant, from her 2019 cookbook Shuk, blew everyone's minds. We realized that not only was it a perfect recipe for Pesach, but for this column as well — in our effort to revamp cholent, this recipe showed us that the concept of a warm and comforting overnight dish goes far beyond meat and potatoes.

My Mom’s Sweet-andSour Baked Eggplant

to drain excess oil. Repeat with the rest of the eggplant. Let the eggplant cool; don’t wash the pan yet.

Serves 4 to 6

5. Add the onion slices to the remaining oil in the pan and fry gently over medium heat until soft, fragrant, and slightly golden, about 10 minutes. Drain on more paper towels to remove excess oil.

The Shabbat oven in an observant household like my mother’s is always filled to capacity. An overnight main dish like Iraqi tbit takes up most of the space, with a pot of overnight bread like kubaneh filling much of the rest. Into any remaining space, my mom would tuck a couple of vegetarian sides, such as this sweet-and-sour melt-in-your-mouth delicacy. You’ll be frying the eggplant before baking it; for notes on frying eggplant, see below. 2 1 ½ 1½ 1 2 ¼

medium globe or 4 smaller Asian eggplants Kosher salt Vegetable oil, for frying medium onion, thinly sliced cup (120 ml) tomato paste cups (360 ml) water tablespoon sugar to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice teaspoon chile flakes

1. Slice the eggplants into ½-inchthick (1.5 cm) rounds and transfer to a colander set in the sink or over a bowl. Cover the eggplants generously with salt and let sit for 30 to 45 minutes to draw out the water. 2. Preheat the oven to 210°F (100°C) if you want to bake the dish overnight, or to 250°F (120°C) for a 3-hour bake. 3. Rinse the eggplants thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels. 4. Line a plate or tray with paper towels. Fill a wide deep skillet with vegetable oil to a depth of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) and heat over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes, or until it reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-fry thermometer. Depending on the size of your pan, add about half the eggplant slices; they should be in one layer with some space between them. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, then lift one eggplant slice and check the bottom—if it’s deep golden brown, it’s time to flip. Fry for 2 minutes on the second side, shaking the pan occasionally so they don’t stick together and will fry evenly. Using a slotted spoon or a spatula, transfer the fried eggplant to the paper towels

6. Line the bottom of a medium gratin or casserole dish with the onion. Sprinkle with salt. Layer the fried eggplant slices on top of the onion. 7. Whisk together the tomato paste, water, sugar, lemon juice, chile flakes, and salt to taste in a small bowl and pour the mixture over the eggplant. Cover the dish with a lid or aluminum foil and bake for at least 3 hours at 250°F (120°C) or overnight at 210°F (100°C). 8. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4 days. C O O K I N G EG G P L A N T

In Israeli cuisine, we use three main techniques to cook an eggplant—frying, roasting in the oven, and charring over an open flame (or, in a pinch, under the broiler). F RY I N G

Properly fried eggplants are delicious — sweet, creamy-soft, with a bit of crunch around the edges. The problem is that these spongy vegetables drink up a lot of oil, which is why curing is a must; otherwise, they’ll spatter and won’t fry nicely. To fry eggplants, fill a wide, deep skillet with about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of oil and heat the oil over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes. Without crowding the pan (work in batches, if needed), add the eggplant and fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Lift one eggplant chunk or slice and check the bottom: if it’s deep golden brown, it’s time to flip. Every now and then, give them a gentle stir and shake the pan so the slices don’t stick together. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, transfer the fried eggplants to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil. Fried eggplants can be used at once or stored in an airtight container in the fridge for a couple of days.

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DESSERTS

Baking on Pesach can be challenging, but we obviously can’t be expected to go a week without cookies! That’s why I came up with this incredible kosher-forPesach cookie dough base. It’s so good, most people don’t even realize it’s glutenfree! It’s super versatile and can be used to make lots of different cookies and bars. Here are three of my favorite ways to use it, but you can get creative and customize however you like.

B Y:

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R O S A

S E I D E N W A R

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DESSERTS

Jam Bars Serves: 12

These are a classic, family-friendly dessert. Wrap them up and take on Chol Hamoed outings or enjoy at home as a dessert to any meal. I love strawberry, but use any jam you have on hand.

Chocolate Fudge Bars Serves: 12

You’re going to want to double (even triple?) this recipe — they’re that good. I won’t be surprised if these become a year-round staple in your home! FO R T H E F U D G E :

3½ ⅓

ounces (100g) high-quality chocolate cup non-dairy creamer

FO R T H E D O U G H :

½ ½ ¼ 1 1 ½ ¼ 1 ½ ½

cup oil cup brown sugar cup sugar egg cup ground blanched almonds or almond flour cup potato starch cup vanilla pudding powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt cup chocolate chips

1. For the fudge, place chocolate in a small bowl and set aside. Heat non-dairy creamer in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until bubbles form around the edges. Pour cream over the chocolate and let sit for 3 minutes, then stir until completely melted. Let cool. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk oil, sugars and egg in a large mixing bowl. Gradually add dry ingredients and mix until combined. 3. Press cookie dough into a greased 8x12inch pan. Sprinkle chocolate chips on top of the dough and dollop spoonfuls of the prepared fudge onto the cookie dough. Using a knife, lightly swirl fudge, without mixing it in too much. 4. Bake for 15-18 minutes, until the sides are cooked through and the center is still a bit soft. Let cool completely, then slice into sticks or squares. 124

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Peach Cobbler Serves: 12

The basic cookie dough serves as both the crust and the topping. Use fresh, canned or frozen peaches — whatever you can find will work. Alternatively, switch it up and use whatever fruit you have on hand (i.e. pears, apples, berries, etc.). Heat the cobbler up right before serving and top with non-dairy vanilla ice cream for an exceptional Yom Tov dessert. FO R T H E D O U G H :

¾ ¾ ⅜ 1 1½ ¾ ⅜ 1½ ¾

cup oil cup brown sugar cup white sugar egg cup ground blanched almonds or almond flour cup potato starch cup vanilla pudding powder teaspoons baking soda teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

1 3

(15-ounce) can peaches, strained and thinly sliced heaping tablespoons sugar, mixed with ½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ ½ ¼ 1 1 ½ ¼ 1 ½ 1

cup oil cup brown sugar cup white sugar egg cup ground blanched almonds or almond flour cup potato starch cup vanilla pudding powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt (16-ounce) jar strawberry jam

FO R T H E C RU M B TO P P I N G :

1 ½ ½ 3-4

cup ground nuts cup potato starch cup brown sugar tablespoons oil

uncuh jaahhms

FO R T H E BA RS :

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk oil, sugars and egg in a large mixing bowl. Gradually add dry ingredients and mix until combined. 2. Press cookie dough into a greased 8x12-inch pan. Spread jam evenly over the dough. 3. For the crumb topping, mix nuts, potato starch, brown sugar and oil until crumbly. Sprinkle over the jam and bake for 15-18 minutes, until the sides are cooked through and the center is still a bit soft. Let cool completely, then slice into sticks or squares.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk oils, sugars and egg in a large mixing bowl. Gradually add dry ingredients and mix until combined. 2. Press ⅔ of the cookie dough into a greased 8x12-inch pan, reserving the other ⅓ for the topping. 3. Arrange sliced peaches over the dough in a single layer, then top with pieces of dough to cover the majority of the peaches. Sprinkle cinnamon-sugar generously over the top. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool completely, then slice into sticks or squares.

Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a stop motion artist, creating scroll stopping animations for various brands. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_lilyrose or on her website lilyrosebakersblog.com. www.fleishigs.com

DESSERTS

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DESSERTS

Deconstructed Lemon Tart Serves: 10

By: Adina Silberman

Curd can be frozen for 3-6 months. Just thaw in the refrigerator before serving. FO R T H E C RU M B L E :

½ ½ 1 1½ ½ 1

cup non-dairy butter substitute cup sugar teaspoon imitation vanilla extract or vanilla sugar, optional cups almond flour cup almond meal teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E L E M O N C U R D:

1½ ¾ 6

cups sugar cup non-dairy butter substitute eggs Zest and juice of 3 lemons Assorted fresh berries, for serving, optional

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. For the crumble, cream butter and sugar until smooth and pale yellow in color. Add remaining ingredients and beat until well combined. Transfer to a 9x13-inch baking sheet and spread it out as evenly as possible. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until golden. Let cool, then break up into crumbles. 2. For the lemon curd, add sugar and butter to a heat resistant bowl set over a pot of boiling water. Lower heat to a simmer and ensure a tight seal between the bowl and the pot. Whisk until melted and incorporated. Add eggs and lemon zest and juice, whisking vigorously until smooth. Continue whisking until mixture has thickened and can coat the back of a spoon, 10-15 minutes. When curd is ready, you should be able to run your finger down the middle of the spoon, leaving a clean line.

3. Strain lemon curd through a fine mesh sieve, then pour into a glass or stainless steel bowl. Cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming. 4. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. To serve, layer curd and cooled crumble in dessert glasses or mousse cups. Top with assorted berries, if desired. CHANGE IT UP: To make a tart, press crumble into a greased 10-inch tart or springform pan and poke holes over the entire surface using a fork. Bake in a 350°F oven for 20-25 minutes, until golden. Let cool. Pour in lemon curd and bake for an additional 7 minutes to set. Refrigerate until cool. Serve with assorted berries, if desired.

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For your sleeping beauties

Apple Cinnamon Crumb Muffins Yield: 28 mini muffins

By: Esty Wolbe

My kids are obsessed with these! They're everything you'd hope a Pesach baked good would taste like, so be prepared to make these year round too. FO R T H E M U F F I N S :

2 ¼ 2 ¾ ¼ 2 2 3 1 1

eggs cup sugar tablespoons brown sugar cup unsweetened applesauce cup oil tablespoons coconut milk cups almond flour tablespoons tapioca starch teaspoon baking powder teaspoon cinnamon

FO R T H E C RU M B TO P P I N G :

⅓ ¼ 1 ½

cup sugar cup oil cup almond flour teaspoon cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. For the muffins, whisk eggs, sugar and brown sugar until incorporated. Add applesauce, oil and coconut milk and mix until combined. Add almond flour, tapioca starch, baking powder and cinnamon and mix until just incorporated. Scoop into a greased mini muffin pan. 2. For the crumb topping, mix sugar, oil, almond flour and cinnamon until crumbly and sprinkle over muffins. Bake for 15-18 minutes.

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DESSERTS

Chocolate Hazelnut Bars Serves: 12-16

By: Tzippy Adelhaid

Nut bars are a pretty common dessert for Pesach, but the layer of chocolate underneath these takes them to the next level entirely. It’s one of my most requested recipes and for good reason. 500 grams bittersweet chocolate, chopped 6 eggs 2¼ cups sugar ¾ cup oil Zest of ½ lemon 300 grams ground hazelnuts or pecans 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place chocolate on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cook for 3-5 minutes, until fully melted. Using an offset spatula or knife, spread it out evenly. Let cool completely. 2. Beat eggs for 4-5 minutes, until fluffy and pale yellow in color. Add sugar, oil, lemon zest and nuts and mix until incorporated. 3. Pour batter over cooled chocolate and bake for 30-40 minutes, until set. Slice into bars immediately, then let cool in the freezer for 15 minutes.

Here I am, once again, I'm torn into pieces, behind these hazel bars. 130

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L'CHAIM

SANGRIA IS A TRADITIONAL Spanish red wine drink typically made with red wine, citrus, assorted fruit and sometimes spices. Save the red wine for the four cups — we decided to change up classic sangria with white wine and rosé, a lighter choice for a casual drink.

sangria

S H I F R A

K L E I N

O H , S U C H A P E R F E C T D AY, Y O U J U S T K E E P M E H A N G I N G O N

B Y:

SIMPSON LENDS A HAND Toby Knopfler, the blogger behind @poshndspicy, chose vibrant jewelry pieces from Simpson Jewelers to complement the colors of local artist Yaeli Vogel's Pesach haggadah and matzah cover, bringing our Pesach shoot alive.

Orange Rosé Sangria

Tropical Sangria Serves: 4-6

NOTE: For the mango juice, we used Ceres brand, which is shelf stable and kosher for Pesach. 4 2 ½ 1 1

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cups semi-dry white wine cups passion fruit or mango juice cup simple syrup (recipe follows) orange, sliced mango, peeled and sliced Fresh rosemary, for serving (optional) Ice, for serving

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Serves: 6

1. Mix wine, juice, simple syrup and orange slices in a pitcher. Refrigerate for 12-48 hours. 2. To serve, add mango and rosemary (if using) and serve over ice.

Simple Syrup Heat equal parts water and sugar in a saucepan over medium-low heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Cool completely before using.

4 1 2 1-2

cups semi-sweet rosé cup orange juice tangerines, thinly sliced cups seltzer Ice, for serving

1. Mix rosé, orange juice and tangerine slices in a pitcher. Refrigerate for 12-48 hours. 2. To serve, pour over ice and top with seltzer.

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L'CHAIM

PROP RESOURCE GUIDE:

Jewelery: Simpson Jewelers www.simpsonjewelers.com

Pitcher and Tray: CB2 www.cb2.com

Haggadah and Matzah Cover: www.yaelivogel.com MARCH 2022

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THE FOUR CUPS BY: GABRIEL GELLER

The four cups of wine for the Passover Seder can either sound exciting or exhausting — it just depends on who you ask. It sure sounds like a lot of wine, especially when the first cup is drunk on an empty stomach. However, the minimum portion varies depending on custom. Some interpretations point to less than 3 ounces, which, when poured into an adequately sized glass, makes it an easier mitzvah to fulfill. In any case, you can ask your local rabbi which custom to follow. But no matter how big or small the portion, what makes it even easier is when the wine is enjoyable. I have selected five very enjoyable wines, instead of just four because we should certainly not forget the fifth cup, the cup of Eliyahu Hanavi, which many customarily consume for kiddush the next day.

LES LAURIERS DE

H E R Z O G VA R I AT I O N S

ROTHSCHILD ROSÉ ,

BE-LEAF CABERNET

2021:

SAUVIGNON, 2020:

While Provence rosés are all the rage, not all French rosés come from there. Les Lauriers is a great Bordeaux rosé made by the Rothschild family at Château des Laurets, in the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Perfect for the first cup, it’s delightful, vibrant and light, yet flavorful, with notes of ripe cherries, raspberries and hints of pink grapefruit.

A great Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t need to be expensive or have a high alcohol content. Crafted by Alicia Wilbur, perhaps the only Orthodox Jewish female winemaker, this wine, made with organically grown grapes, is smooth and wellbalanced, with a moderate 13% alcohol content. For those looking for a quality organic wine with no added sulfites, this one is fantastic.

G O O S E B AY P I N O T G R I G I O, 2 0 2 1 :

T U R A M O U N TA I N

A white wine?! Yes! Some Jews, like those originating from Germany, Austria, eastern France or the former Czechoslovakia, have the custom to drink only white wine at the Seder and sometimes at kiddush on Shabbat and Yom Tov in general. This Pinot Grigio from New Zealand is deliciously fruity, with lemon, pineapple and guava notes. It is a great first cup option, but can be great served with the meal as well.

HEIGHTS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, 2018: This a hearty, rich and flavorful wine from Israel. It is a pleasure to drink and sip alongside the Seder meal and adds an additional symbolic aspect to the meal, representing our freedom to live and serve God in Israel — our homeland.

E LV I H E R E N Z A R E S E R VA R I O J A 2 0 1 6 : Finally, the fifth cup — the one that is poured especially for Eliyahu Hanavi, whom we anticipate to join our Seder table to announce the final redemption with the revelation of Mashiach. Surely we want to honor Eliyahu with an appropriate wine. The Elvi Reserva is an incredibly flavorful and complex wine that benefits from breathing in the glass from earlier in the Seder when it gets poured. There is a custom to drink the wine the next day for kiddush, at which point it will have opened up beautifully.

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SPIRITS (UH, ABOUT ELEVEN SIR) BY: GABRIEL GELLER

Eight days — that’s how long Pesach is. And yet, we focus mainly on the four cups of wine at the two sedarim. However, there are eight days and I know that many of us miss relaxing on Yom Tov and Chol Hamoed with a glass of our favorite scotch, bourbon or tequila. Pesach is an excellent opportunity to discover other types of spirits that are just as worthy of sipping as the ones mentioned above. I have curated a short list of kosher for Pesach spirits that I highly recommend for Pesach and all year long!

H E AV E N S

R. JELINEK

ARTISAN CLASSIC

S L I V O V I T Z S I LV E R

C H O C O L AT E

P LU M B R A N DY

LIQUEUR

Fruit brandy, or schnapps, is part of the Shabbat repertoire for many people who, like me, grew up in Europe. Slivovitz, made in the Czech Republic, is a plum brandy with distinct almond notes on the nose, coupled with the juicy and tart flavor of plum skin. The almond aroma and flavor come from the core of the plum’s pit, which is from the almond family. It’s refined and delightful.

I suggest serving this chocolate liqueur over some ice cubes or even over a scoop of vanilla ice cream. With its rich, deep, dark chocolate flavor, it’s hard to believe that it’s not dairy, making it the perfect accompaniment to the dessert course at Yom Tov meals.

RIGHTEOUS ROAD CRAFT SPIRITS: THE FIFTH CUP Righteous Road is best known for its Righteous Seven, a delicious liqueur made from the seven species the land of Israel was blessed with. The Fifth Cup is a delicious liqueur that does not contain any of the chametz components of the original Righteous Seven. It has a smooth texture with a nice kick, with notes of caramel, pecan and dried figs.

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LO U I S R OY E R COGNAC VS Cognac is one of my favorite hard liquors to enjoy all year and even more so on Pesach! It has an elegance, refinement and complexity that pleases most scotch drinkers. However, it is made from distilled wine and aged for several years in oak barrels, which gives it a unique mouthfeel and texture.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK: ESSA

BRIDGING BETWEEN BOTH PARTS OF THE NEW WORLD BY: YAEL E. GELLER, MPH

THERE ARE NOT many wineries or winemakers about which I can say I have watched blossom and grow. Most winemakers are much older than me and they have watched me grow up drinking their wines. Although I have never met Joshua Rynderman in person, I can confidently say that we are good friends. We share many of the same acquaintances, interests and, most importantly, a passion for good wine! Josh’s story is unlike any other winemaker in the industry. He currently makes wine in both the Northern Hemisphere (Northern California) and the Southern Hemisphere (Johannesburg, South Africa and the surrounding areas). The purpose of this article is to introduce and discuss his South African winery, ESSA Winery. However, to give the full picture, I will discuss his journey and experience briefly. Josh Rynderman was born in San Jose, California. His family moved to Boston, where he grew up and spent most of his life, only to return to his roots when his family moved back to California for his father's business. In 2014, he asked well-known winemaker Benyamin Cantz of Four Gates winery in San Jose, California for the opportunity to help him with the harvest. Since then, he has been apprenticing in the production of the Four Gates Winery. The following year, Josh had enough experience and knowledge to create his own wines from grapes he sourced and his American brand Kos Yeshuos was born. Josh has a

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passion many people could only dream of having. For example, on his birthday, he spent the day harvesting grapes and living in the moment, enjoying the process that he loves so dearly. Kos Yeshuos is a small production (primarily for his fan base) and usually has some fascinating blends and varietals that we do not usually see in the kosher market. Fast forward a bit to 2018; it was time for Josh to settle down, but the only problem was the location. While living in California, he was courting a woman, Chana, who was living in Johannesburg, South Africa. Josh did not want to give up what he had going in California with his wine business. However, he knew he could not pass up the opportunity to marry Chana. Like all good winemakers, he found a solution to his problem by becoming bi-hemispherical (I think I might have just made up this term!). They now spend their time chasing the summer/harvest season and running two wineries. Right now, the focus is on building up their South African winery, ESSA. Starting a winery in South Africa out of thin air was not easy for a NorCal-bornand-bred guy. There had previously been one kosher wine production there, but nothing on the level that the ESSA dream was to be or hoped to become. Chana and Josh had just married and moved to Cape Town. Thankfully, Josh had spent a significant amount of time running up leads and chatting with contacts about making wine there. Things quickly fell into place and within four weeks of their wedding, they were harvesting the 2018 Malbec from the Hemel en Aarde Ridge — the largest harvest Josh had ever done at the time. Things kept moving along and Josh has come a long way since then. As I write this, Josh tells me they are now preparing for the imminent 2022 harvest in www.fleishigs.com

South Africa with exciting new sources of fruit and I cannot wait! Kos Yeshuos and ESSA may be familiar to most readers as a passage from Havdalah and Hallel. ESSA means “I will raise,” but in context with the rest of the passage, it is a way for Josh to show appreciation for all Hashem has done for him. Kos Yeshuos means “a cup of salvation” (a cup of wine) to raise in appreciation. Josh is bouncing off the walls with his excitement about the new harvest coming up with additional sources of grapes. These will likely prove to be some of the most unique kosher wines we have ever seen in our market. Since few notable South African wines have been produced for the kosher market, Josh saw an opportunity to introduce specific parts of that country to consumers. Josh says, “We want them to know that the grapes that made these particular wines came from a very particular place. We have only sourced from select vineyards worthy of our customers. Not every type of grape should be grown just anywhere. Each vineyard has a specific variety that does well there.” The terroir in South Africa is interesting because of the vineyards' proximity to both the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. The vineyards benefit from dual maritime air and climate. I feel super fortunate to have tasted samples of his first vintage from South Africa and all I can say is WOW (and these days, there is not much that wows me anymore). When your husband schleps out 5-10 bottles of wine to taste at dinner almost every night, everything becomes a blur. Not literally because most of the wine ends up in a spittoon. However, figuratively, flavors do not stand out after tasting many wines. On top of all the other things on my mind, like preschool and a teething baby, quality, exciting wine is a welcome solace in my busy days. ESSA wines are well made and have interesting and unique notes that I have never tasted in kosher wines before, with superb acid and tannin balance. They are likely to age and evolve favorably in their bottles. We were also fortunate enough to preview Josh’s white wine, Atira, a

blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, a couple of months before its release. Let me say that it was a great treat and honor to drink this wine on Shabbat Chanukah. It was “lit” with vibrant acid and old-world flair! Josh hopes to continue both wine lines as long as possible, although I am sure there will be many challenges ahead. He had quite the adventure dealing with COVID and being stuck apart from his wife and winery for quite some time in 2020. The 2020 harvest in California was the first challenge for Josh. He had to be repatriated from South Africa to the USA! No commercial flights were operational

out of South Africa at the time, so he hitched a ride on one of His Royal Dutch Majesty’s airplanes out of SA. What a story! I am so looking forward to the new wines he has coming for us, which are hitting the USA market in a few months! Here’s to hoping that Josh and Chana can continue moving from hemisphere to hemisphere without His Royal Highness intervening. L’chaim!

Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com MARCH 2022

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I N S P I R E D BY A R I SC H E R E R, TO R A H O R E D O R M C I RCA 20 03 - I S H

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the recipes in this section can work anytime, including the Seder feast or Shabbat, they are especially perfect lunch and dinner options for Chol Hamoed.

WHILE ALL OF

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Rainbow Quinoa Salad Serves: 8

By: Esty Wolbe

This salad is always a major hit. It's beautiful, colorful and bright, a perfect lunch for Chol Hamoed or as a side dish for a Yom Tov meal. 2

Sweet and Sour Chicken Poppers Serves: 8

By: Esty Wolbe

This recipe comes courtesy of my sister. It freezes beautifully and is a major hit with the kids. Feel free to add some heat to the recipe with the addition of hot sauce. FO R T H E P O P P E RS :

2½ 4 ½ 2 1 1 1 3

cups potato starch eggs cup water teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon paprika teaspoon garlic powder pounds chicken breast, cubed Oil, for frying

FO R T H E SAU C E :

1 1 ¼

cup brown sugar cup ketchup cup water

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Mix potato starch, eggs, water and spices until smooth (consistency should be similar to pancake batter). 2. Mix sauce ingredients in a large bowl and set aside. 3. Heat a few inches of oil in a deep sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Coat chicken in batter and, working in batches, fry until golden brown, about 5 minutes.

1 1 1 1 ½ ½ 3 1 ½

cups quinoa, cooked according to package directions red bell pepper, finely diced orange bell pepper, finely diced yellow bell pepper, finely diced small red onion, finely diced bunch fresh parsley, chopped bunch fresh cilantro, chopped Juice of 2 lemons tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mix cooked quinoa, peppers, onions, herbs, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Spanish Potato Omelet Serves: 4-6

By: Adina Silberman

Eggs need no introduction on Pesach and neither does this traditional potato omelet, considered by some to be a national dish of Spain. ¾ 2 1 8 2 ½

cup extra-virgin olive oil large Russet potatoes, peeled and diced large onion, diced eggs teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat oil in a 10-inch non-stick skillet over high heat. Add potatoes and onions and sauté until golden and cooked through, 25-30 minutes. 2. Whisk eggs, salt and pepper in a bowl. Add potato-onion mixture.

4. Transfer to sauce and toss to coat. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and cook for 15 minutes, until slightly caramelized.

3. Discard most of the oil from the pan, leaving just a thin layer to cook the omelet. Return to medium heat. Add egg mixture and cook until edges are firm and underside is lightly golden.

MAKE AHEAD: These poppers freeze really well. Simply fry, cool and store in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 1 month. Freeze sauce separately. Defrost chicken in the fridge overnight, then bake for 10 minutes in a 375°F oven to heat through. Toss in reheated sauce.

4. Carefully flip the omelet using two spatulas. (Alternatively, place a large plate over the skillet and firmly flip the pan, then gently slide the flipped omelet from the plate back into the pan.) Let cook for another 1-5 minutes, depending on preferred doneness. Slice and serve immediately. MARCH 2022

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Forget mom’s spaghetti Mom's Meatballs in Savory Mushroom Sauce Serves: 20 By: Roza Adler and Esty Wolbe

These are the softest meatballs you'll ever eat and the recipe makes a huge batch. My mom usually turns half the meat mixture into meatballs and cooks them in mushroom sauce. She forms the other half into patties and grills them (they freeze really well and kids love them). The meatballs freeze beautifully in the sauce as well. EDITOR'S NOTE: Form meatballs into classic balls or make them oval like Esty’s mom does. 5 1 9 4½ 4 2 3 ¼

potatoes large onion garlic cloves, divided pounds ground beef teaspoons kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper eggs, beaten Savory Mushroom Sauce (recipe follows) cup fresh dill, chopped

1. For the meatballs, grate potatoes, onion and 5 cloves garlic using the kugel blade or S-blade of a food processor. Add potato mixture to the meat with salt, pepper and eggs and mix until just incorporated. Form into meatballs, then drop into simmering sauce. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.

2. Finish with dill and remaining 4 minced garlic cloves. Stir gently to incorporate, taking care not to break the meatballs. Simmer for another 3 minutes.

Savory Mushroom Sauce Yield: 3 cups

Double the sauce recipe if you intend to make the entire batch of meatballs (recipe above). The sauce freezes beautifully on its own or with the meatballs. EDITOR’S NOTE: Stuff the blintzes on page 102 with mashed potatoes and top with this mushroom sauce for a delicious appetizer. Heat 2 tablespoons oil In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, Add 1 large diced onion and sauté until translucent, 3-5 minutes. Add 20 ounces sliced baby bella mushrooms and sauté for another 3 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add 1 cup water and simmer for a few minutes. In a small bowl, mix ¾ cup water, 2 tablespoons potato starch and 2 tablespoons mayonnaise until completely combined. Add to the mushrooms with 1 tablespoon paprika and stir frequently until thickened, adding more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, as needed. The sauce should be loose enough for the meatballs to simmer in. MARCH 2022

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Chicken part

B Y:

D E V O R A H

B A C K M A N

Deux that fragrant tray of crispy-skinned roasted chicken on Pesach — until it’s the second or even third meal and you’re still working through the leftovers. As someone with a deep aversion to throwing out perfectly good food, but a reluctance to serve the same dish more than once, I consider the leftover makeover to be my personal specialty. To make the most of leftover chicken, the key is to store it as soon as possible after serving, without letting it sit on a hot plate or in an oven to dry out. (Better yet, if you know

you made too much, put aside the surplus before you even heat and serve it.) Package it in an airtight container or plastic Ziploc bag, getting out as much air as possible; if you can store it in its own fat, that will preserve the flavor and freshness even more. Before reheating, scrape off the fat and any seasonings or sauces and separate the meat from the skin and bones using gloved hands. Shred or chop as needed and you’re just a few minutes away from a satisfying meal that won’t look or taste like leftovers.

Chicken Curry

medium tomatoes, chopped (14-ounce) cans coconut milk, refrigerated overnight cup raw cashews, roughly chopped lemons, divided tablespoons cilantro, chopped (optional)

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE

Serves: 4-6

This chicken curry comes together fairly quickly and is an excellent use of leftover chicken. For Pesach, I’d recommend serving with a side of quinoa and/or roasted or steamed cauliflower. 1 1 3 1 1 1 2 2 ¼ 2

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tablespoon neutral oil onion, chopped cloves garlic, minced (1-inch) knob ginger, minced (or 1 teaspoon dried) (1-inch) piece fresh turmeric, minced (or 1 teaspoon dried) teaspoon cinnamon teaspoons coriander teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon red pepper flakes or 1 teaspoon minced chili pepper cups vegetables such as zucchini, bell peppers and carrots, cut into bite-size pieces cups shredded cooked chicken

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3 2 ½ 2 2

1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, 5-8 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and turmeric and sauté for another 1-2 minutes. Add cinnamon, coriander, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper and bloom in the oil until just fragrant.

EDITOR’S NOTE For the easiest “blank canvas” chicken, check out Devorah’s poached chicken from issue #32, available on the Fleishigs app.

water) to the pan and stir to combine. Simmer until slightly thickened and vegetables are fork tender. Add cashews and the juice of ½ lemon. 4. In a small bowl, mix reserved coconut cream with the juice of ½ lemon and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Serve with a dollop of coconut cream and chopped cilantro. Serve over roasted or steamed cauliflower and remaining lemon, cut into wedges.

2. Add vegetables and chicken and sauté until vegetables begin to soften. Add chopped tomatoes and any accumulated juices and cook for a few minutes until tomatoes start to break down, scraping the bottom of the pan to prevent the spices from burning. 3. Carefully scoop out the thick coconut cream at the top of the cans and set aside. Add the rest of the coconut milk (cream and www.fleishigs.com

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BBQ Chicken Loaded Sweet Potatoes Serves: 8

Growing up, we used almost no packaged or “processed” ingredients on Pesach. Though I don’t follow that custom anymore, I still find myself skipping most packaged products and bottled sauces — it’s expensive to replace every condiment in my fridge for a single week and I prefer not to buy any imitation products that I won’t want to use when Pesach is over (looking at you, imitation soy sauce!). Instead, I stick to a limited pantry of spices and sauces. If you don’t use any of 156

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the products for the recipe below, feel free to replace with something similar — homemade tomato sauce instead of the paste, sugar syrup instead of honey and so on. It’s important to taste and adjust for that perfect sweet-tangy balance. If you prefer a quick and easy method, replace the entire sauce recipe with a bottle of good quality kosher for Pesach BBQ sauce. 4 3 2 ½ 1

sweet potatoes, scrubbed tablespoons neutral oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper onion, minced

4 1 ½ ½ ¼ 1 1 1 1 1 4

cloves garlic, minced (6-ounce) can tomato paste cup apple cider or red wine vinegar cup honey maple syrup or ¼ cup chopped apricots (or use more honey) (8-ounce) can tomato sauce teaspoon paprika teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon onion powder tablespoon hot sauce or 1 teaspoon minced jalapeño (optional) cups shredded cooked chicken Sliced avocado, sliced jalapeño, sliced radishes, pickled red onions, cilantro and hot sauce, for serving www.fleishigs.com

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1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Toss whole sweet potatoes with 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper on a foil-lined baking sheet and cook for 2½-3 hours. (This can be done in advance, just reheat potatoes before serving.)

powder, remaining 1 teaspoon salt and hot sauce (if using).

2. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and sauté until golden, 5-8 minutes. Add tomato paste and stir until paste caramelized, 2-4 minutes.

5. Heat oven to broil. Split sweet potatoes in half lengthwise and scrape a fork over the flesh until light and fluffy. Broil for 2-5 minutes until warm and the edges are slightly crispy. Scoop some of the chicken mixture into the sweet potatoes and top with toppings of choice.

3. Deglaze the pan with vinegar, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add honey and maple syrup. Stir to combine, then add tomato sauce, paprika, garlic powder, onion

4. Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, until thickened and reduced by about one-third. Add chicken and stir until coated and heated through.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

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WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO SEAL FOOD TO PREPARE IT FOR SOUS VIDE COOKING?

Sous Vide for Cooking in Advance: Cooking without a recipe. AS THIS ISSUE is centered around dishes you can make ahead, delving a bit more into sous vide cooking was a logical choice. While sous vide cooking may seem intimidating, its main advantages are perfect for those who want to cook in advance, cook without a recipe or tackle some large batch cooking at once. Don’t feel as though you need a lot of equipment or special skills to achieve excellent results. Sous vide, which is French for “under vacuum,” is the process of cooking under controlled conditions with an immersion circulator that sets water to a precise, steady temperature. Food is sealed in plastic bags, immersed in the water and then, depending on what you are cooking, can take anywhere from a few hours up to 1-3 days for perfect results every time. Once the food is sealed, cooked and cooled, it can easily be frozen and pulled out as needed. This allows you to prepare an array of things without taking much physical and mental headspace. The big skill in sous vide cooking is knowledge of time and temperature, which comes with practice. So instead of simply providing a few sous vide recipes, which we have done in past issues, we spoke again with Chef Isaac Bernstein who already provided us with a wealth of knowledge on basic sous vide cooking for the Culinary School feature in the dinner issue (#32). This time, however, we picked Chef Isaac’s brain on more advanced techniques for sous vide cooking, just in time for Pesach.

The best way is via a chamber vacuum sealer. At Gruit (my restaurant in Brooklyn, NY), we use an MVS, a restaurant-quality vacuum sealer that works really well. At-home vacuum sealers are now available for the home cook, so if you are into sous vide cooking like I am, it may be worth getting one. However, certain ones can create a weak seal, causing liquid to seep through. You don’t want to run the risk of a compromised seal. Therefore, I highly recommend the water displacement method: Place food into a freezer-safe Ziploc bag (freezer-safe bags are extremely important), then lower it into the water bath (keeping it open). The pressure of the water will force the air out of the bag. Once most of the air is out of the bag, seal it. Weigh the bag down with food-grade weights to help keep it fully submerged. I recommend a metal knife, which is slim and prevents air pockets. IS THERE ANYTHING THAT I SHOULDN’T COOK IN THE SOUS VIDE?

Raw garlic. In a reduced oxygen environment, such as sous vide, you increase the risk of botulism. Therefore, I always use garlic oil or granulated powder when I want to infuse garlic flavor into whatever I am cooking in the sous vide. BESIDES THE PRECISENESS, ARE THERE ANY SPECIFIC ADVANTAGES TO COOKING THIS WAY?

Another advantage is that meat/chicken retains a lot more moisture, causing it to shrink a lot less. However, it’s imperative to finish with a good sear or high-temperature roast to impart the most flavor into the food. HOW DO I BECOME PROFICIENT IN SOUS VIDE COOKING?

With a technique like this, practice truly does make perfect. Familiarize yourself with the FDA time and temperature guide and/or the Baldwin’s thickness guide, which will open a whole new world of cooking for you. The lower the temperature, the longer the food will take; the longer the food remains in the sous vide, the more tender it will become. HOW DO I STORE FOOD ONCE COOKED IN THE SOUS VIDE?

It’s important to plunge the bags into an ice bath after cooking in order to get the food to a safe temperature. Then once cool, refrigerate for up to two weeks or freeze for up to 6-12 months. Just make sure to leave everything in the bags and only open once ready to use. HOW DO I DEFROST FROZEN SOUS VIDE FOOD?

Defrost in the fridge overnight, just as you would any food. Since I’m a firm believer in simple sous vide cooking, without additional flavorings, I love to reheat meat in beef jus, a glaze or sauce. For steak, sear it in a hot pan, then pour hot liquid on top and finish it in the oven. MARCH 2022

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CULINARY SCHOOL

RECOMMENDED CUTS, TIMES AND TEMPERATURES: CHICKEN: • Chicken Breast: 142°F for 1 hour 15 minutes • Chicken Thighs: 156°F for 3 hours PRO TIP: Double bag or use a bone guard for bone-in chicken so that the bones don’t pierce the bag.

BEEF: • Roasts (3-4-pounds): Once cooked, slice and sear or roast whole in a 550°F oven for 7 minutes. • Chuck Eye: 135°F for 24 hours • Minute Roast: 158°F for 24 hours.

STEAKS: • Flatiron: 135°F for 2-24 hours (the longer it cooks, the more tender it will be) • Ribeye: 125°F for 2 hours • Surprise: 130°F for 24 hours • Denver or New York Strip: 135°F for 24 hours

SHORT RIBS: • 135°F for 72 hours (the texture will be like braised short ribs) • 158°F for 18-24 hours (the texture will be like braised short ribs, but can still cut like a steak)

VEGETABLES: • Eggplant: 185°F for 1½ hours. Finish on the grill or bread and fry. • Potatoes: 196°F for 1 hour. Finish with a sear in duck fat.

Chef Isaac Bernstein has established a reputation in the kosher world for modernizing heimish cuisine. He founded Epic Bites, a kosher catering company in Northern California, which became known for modern, multi-course popup dinners. Today, Chef Isaac is a partner of Gruit in Brooklyn, NY. Additionally, he is a food and restaurant consultant and he produces exclusive culinary events. You can follow Chef Isaac's food adventures on Instagram @chefisaacb. 160

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R E C I P E

I N D E X

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 33 Coffee Garlic Rub M Q 40 Potato Dough 40 Fried Onions 40 Pesto 46 Homemade Mayonnaise M Q 50 Herb Vinaigrette M Q 50 Pickled Jalapeño Mayo Q 50 Garlic Apricot Confit 50 Citrus Beet Vinaigrette 50 Dried Mushrooms 51

Umami Seasoning Blend Q

Pickled Onions M Q

Pickled Jalapeños M Q

Pickled Mushrooms

57 Spiced Nut Clusters FF Q 60 Citrus Vinaigrette 75 Sweet Caramelized Onions 82 Tangy Remoulade Q 93 Mango Lime Dipping Sauce Q 102 Pesach Blintzes FF M Q 108 Pistachio Gremolata Q 136 Tropical Sangria 136 Simple Syrup M 136 Orange Rosé Sangria

62 Elevated Coleslaw FF Q 62 Pickled Cucumber Salad Q 64 Sweet and Spicy Watermelon Salsa 110 Fried King Oyster Mushrooms With Scallions and Peppers 108 Zucchini with Pistachio Gremolata M 108 Roasted Cabbage and Cauliflower with Almonds 109 Caramelized Onion Spaghetti Squash Kugel FF 114 Salt-Crusted Vegetables 117 My Mom’s Sweet-and-Sour Baked Eggplant FF 151 Rainbow Quinoa Salad FF Q 151 Spanish Potato Omelet FF

MEAT 33 Coffee-Rubbed Roast M 33 Slow Cooker Coffee-Rubbed Pulled Deckle 40 Potato Gnocchi with Pulled Beef and Mushroom Sauce FF 90 Classic Braised Osso Bucco 90 Tomato-Braised Osso Bucco 93 Dry-Brined Short Rib Roast FF M 102 Beef and Mushroom Stuffed Kabocha Squash 153 Mom’s Meatballs with Savory Mushroom Sauce FF

153 Savory Mushroom Sauce

162 Pesach Burgers FF Q

FISH

CHICKEN

82 Lemony Tuna Salad FF Q

33 Coffee-Rubbed Grilled Pargiyot FF

82 Gefilte Fish Patties FF M 84 Garlicky Tomato Salmon FF 84 Brined Roasted Salmon

46 Oven-Baked Schnitzel FF M 93 Crispy Coconut Chicken with Mango Lime Dipping Sauce

85 Matzah Tuna Nachos Q

95 Chicken “Sushi”

SOUP

114 Salt-Crusted Chicken

70 Mushroom Soup with “Bacon” Bits and Sautéed Mushrooms 73 Meat Borscht 73 Creamy Borscht 72 Easiest Creamy Onion Soup M 75 Cauliflower Soup with Sweet Caramelized Onions FF

96 Chicken with Fennel and Prunes 151 Sweet and Sour Chicken Poppers FF 154 Chicken Curry Q 156 BBQ Chicken Loaded Sweet Potatoes FF

SWEET TREATS 42 Apricot Knedle 124 Chocolate Fudge Bars FF

SAMPLE SEDER MENU •

Garlicky Tomato Salmon

•

Elevated Coleslaw

•

Pickled Cucumber Salad

•

Cauliflower Soup with Sweet Caramelized Onions

•

Coffee-Rubbed Roast

•

Chicken with Fennel and Prunes

•

Caramelized Onion Spaghetti Squash Kugel

•

Peach Cobbler

SAMPLE YOM TOV LUNCH MENU •

Tropical Sangria

•

Gefilte Fish Patties

•

Matzah Nachos

75 Vegetable Soup FF

124 Peach Cobbler

•

Kale and Persimmon Salad

124 Jam Bars

VEGETARIAN

•

Oven-Baked Schnitzel

127 Deconstructed Lemon Tart

•

Beef and Mushroom Stuffed

33 Coffee-Rubbed Roasted Sweet Potatoes 40 Potato Gnocchi with Fried Onions

128 Apple Cinnamon Crumb Muffins FF

•

40 Potato Gnocchi with Pesto 40 Potato Gnocchi FF 41

Twice-Fried Potato Gnocchi Tater Tots FF

57 Kale and Persimmon Salad 60 Asian Pear and Radicchio Salad

Kabocha Squash

130 Chocolate Hazelnut Bars M

Zucchini with Pistachio Gremolata

KEY: FF Family-Friendly

•

Cauliflower with Almonds

M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

Roasted Cabbage and

•

Deconstructed Lemon Tart

LAST BITE

THE ULTIMATE PESACH

treat is a grilled feast. It is extremely easy to execute (especially on Pesach) and can still feel special and worthy of the holiday. You truly don’t need much — kosher salt, black pepper pepper, olive oil, fresh vegetables and proteins — to create an unforgettable and family-friendly dinner. We created a grill platter perfect for a Chol Hamoed get together using Esty Wolbe’s grilled pargiyot (page 33) and her mom’s meatballs (page 153) that we formed into burgers. We served it with potato chips, grilled lemons, Boston lettuce, sliced tomatoes, pickled mushrooms (page 51) and pickled onions (page 51) — the perfect accompaniments.

Pesach Burgers Using the meat mixture from Mom’s Meatballs (page 153), form into patties and freeze for 15 minutes. Preheat grill to 375°F and grease the grates. Grill patties for 5-6 minutes on one side, then flip and grill for 4 minutes on the other. Alternatively, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a cast iron or grill pan over medium heat and sear patties for 5-6 minutes per side.

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