Fleishigs Magazine Issue 036 - May 2022 by Fleishigs Magazine

USA $6.99 CAN $9.99 / UK £6 SA R90 / ISR 25₪

BUTCHER'S CUT

THE CHEESE GUY

EDITOR’S LETTER

ESSENTIALS

TRADITION Dairy mazza

HEALTH The incredible egg

BREAKING BREAD

WHEN DAIRY MEETS BREAD

BACK POCKET Sour cream L’CHAIM Cellar wines

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Basil NY

104 CHOLENT REDO Breads Bakery kubaneh

SHAVUOS FEAST

NOT ONE , BUT FOUR FEASTS

106 TRAVEL Baha Mar 117

SOMETHING SWEET No-bake cheesecake

120 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Shiloh Winery 128 RECIPE INDEX 130 LAST BITE South African melktaart

124

CULINARY SCHOOL

PANEER

EDITOR'S LETTER

THE DAIRY ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

This is the whey. a Jewish holiday only happens once a year in our home, so it can get overwhelming to make one cohesive menu. At my parents’ house, my mother prepares a hot buffet with almost every dairy dish you can think of — it’s almost too hard to choose. So instead, we eat it all — lasagna, eggplant parm, panfried cheese blintzes, cheesy broccoli, macaroni and cheese, potatoes gratin and roasted salmon. And that is just the beginning! She also serves an array of salads, like Caesar, Greek and my favorite — her classic radish salad, which inspired this issue’s Back Pocket column, showcasing the wonders of sour cream. This is our second annual dairy issue and, during the planning process, I faced a similar conundrum to my family's annual challenge in choosing one cohesive menu. After all, packing all the dairy content we’d like into one issue is quite a challenge! Our focus became easy, family-friendly dishes and desserts — delicious breads, pizzas, pastas, mazza, salads, etc. — that you can use over and over again. We created four Shavuos feasts inspired by international cuisine (Indian, Israeli, Polish and Italian); each works well in its own right, but can be mixed and matched and still feel cohesive, which was our ultimate goal. The menus and recipes are all new takes on classics that we all love. We encourage you to think outside the box, whether it be making cheese at home with our guides for Indian paneer and Syrian string cheese or taking inspiration from our primer EATING DAIRY ON

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EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

on aged cheese by adding something new to your cheese board. There are many reasons why we celebrate Shavuos with a dairy feast. One of the reasons is that once the Jewish people received the Torah, they began observing Shabbos and kosher. Since the Torah was given on Shabbos, animals couldn’t be slaughtered, so instead they celebrated with dairy food. Beyond the food, the message of Shavuos resonates so much with our mission at Fleishigs. During the receiving of the Torah, the Jewish nation gathered as one united people, an identifying factor that has lasted centuries. “A Jew is a Jew” is a sentiment that we love celebrating through food by highlighting stories and recipes from different cultures and backgrounds in each issue. We receive so much feedback from Jews from all over the word who echo this sentiment by incorporating classic Sephardic dishes in their Ashkenazi homes or Ashkenazi dishes in their Sephardic homes. Food is the true connector and we especially feel that this time of year. Wishing you and your families a Chag Sameach! Bitayavon, Shifra

P.S. Fear not! We will not let the leftover content that didn’t make it into this issue go to waste. We have launched our free newsletter, aptly titled The Leftovers, where all our extra content is sent. Beyond a recipe or two, we share food news, magazine updates and behind-the-scenes content. You don’t want to miss it!

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Claudia Hopkins CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com

www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. When you're on a holiday, you can't find the words to say all the things that come to you and I wanna feel it too. I've heard it too many times to ignore it. It's something that I'm supposed to be. Someday we'll find it, the Instagram connection (@naftolimann). This issue was designed to the pleasing and expressive sounds of Savage Garden, Shmueli Ungar, Moshe Yess (the Kol Salonika album) and Sarah McLachlan. Also, some really awful kid's CD about Shuey's shoes or something, Freaky Friday, but for the whole class. Lord have mercy. I was trapped in a van for eight hours with that aural personification of ADHD, a cacophony of noise and sound effects. Zero stars, I do not recommend. Visual Stimuli: Nothing, I was in Cleveland with no connection : ( Book(s): Children of Dune

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

ESSENTIALS

NEW DAIRY FINDS

BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ

COUNTRY TRADING CO. ORGANIC CHEESECLOTH Aside from its many other uses, cheesecloth is essential for making soft cheeses, like paneer (page 127), at home. This organic, unbleached, fine-weave cheesecloth properly drains the moisture from the cheese, yielding a perfect texture. It can be cut to size and reused as needed. Similar cheesecloth is also available at Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods.

amazon.com | $12

ZETOV CARAMEL CREAM Creamy dulce de leche is a great addition to your Shavuos cheesecake and desserts. This cholov yisroel caramel is available in original and sea salt. Certified kosher by Badatz

CUTCO TRADITIONAL CHEESE KNIFE This knife is designed for cutting both hard and soft cheeses, but happens to be wonderful for tomatoes and potatoes as well. The perforations prevent dense foods from sticking to the knife.

cutco.com | $99

PEREG NIGELLA SEEDS A key ingredient in Syrian string cheese (page 18), nigella seeds can be used in so many different applications, from salad dressing and bread topping to protein seasoning. Similar in appearance to black sesame seeds, nigella seeds are derived from the fennel plant and have a subtle anise flavor. Certified kosher by OU

WILLIAMS SONOMA PERFECT EGG TIMER Unlike a traditional timer that uses time, this timer uses temperature instead to gauge whether an egg is boiled to soft, medium or hard. Just drop it into the water and watch it change colors to display desired doneness.

williams-sonoma.com | $9.95

TERRAIN MARBLE EDGE SERVING BOARD Invest in a high-quality board for serving cheese, dessert or a breakfast array, like the one on page 71. This mango wood and marble board is perfect for anyone who loves to entertain.

anthropologie.com | $88

FIELD, FLOWER, VASE BY CHELSEA FUSS

BETHEL CREAMERY YOGURT Bethel Creamery is a small, family-owned farm and one of their newer products, grass-fed whole milk A2A2 Greek yogurt, contains no preservatives and has a creamy flavor and rich texture. A2 products can be easier to digest for those with dairy intolerance. Certified kosher by OU

Chelsea Fuss’ popular flower workshops led to this book, which focuses on a combination of fresh and dried botanicals to create simple centerpieces without any complicated gadgets. Shavuos is a wonderful time to learn the art of flower arranging; this book is a visual masterpiece and a perfect hostess gift.

amazon.com | $20.49

ORIGINAL BAKING STEEL Use this indestructible steel pizza stone in the oven (or on the grill) to make delicious restaurant-style pizza at home, as well as breads and more. It’s easy to use and clean, will last a lifetime with proper regular seasoning (refer to the website’s FAQ section) and will turn out artisan pizzas in no time. (Baking Steel uses Barlean’s organic flax oil to pre-season the steels, which is certified kosher by OK.)

bakingsteel.com | $119

NOYAN ROSE PETAL PRESERVES This candied rose petal syrup, a novelty item that can be found online or in specialty food shops, will elevate any cheese board or the Polish Rolled Crêpes on page 75. Although an acquired taste, the floral quality of rose petals is mellowed when candied. Certified kosher by OU

*Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

DEVASH RICH SKIM MILK This new cholov yisroel skim milk has a richer flavor and texture than other similar ones on the market. Certified kosher by Vaad of Crown Heights, Vaad of Kiryas Yoel and New Square Rabbinical Kashrus Council

TRADITION

Although Syrians are known for a variety of meat mazza, such as lachmagine, cigars and kibbeh, the significance of dairy mazza is sometimes overlooked. Often packed for school lunches or day trips, these bites of finger food are always a hit at parties as well as light holiday lunches. All of the following recipes can be made in advance and frozen for future use.

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TRADITION

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TRADITION

Syrian Twisted String Cheese

Sambousak

Yield: 12 balls

Yield: 5 dozen

This is the cheese of my childhood. Although at first homemade cheese may seem daunting, once you break it down, it can be very fulfilling and even easy. I spent a few hours with my great grandmother, Rae, learning how to make it and I will cherish that quality time forever.

This recipe for sambousak, taken from my great-grandmother Rae Dayan’s cookbook For the Love of Cooking, is a Syrian dairy delicacy similar to cheese bourekas. While you can use store bought puff pastry, making this dough from scratch is worth the effort. The recipe makes a lot of sambousak, but they freeze really well (see below). You can make bigger ones if preferred — just adjust the cook time.

N OT E S :

• Grandma Rae’s original recipe calls for stirring over a pot, but once she discovered the ease of the microwave, it was life changing. I have developed a nice system, a step-by-step of which you can find on my @sy_in_li Instagram highlights. • Ground mahlab, which is derived from cherry pits, is what gives Syrian string cheese its distinct flavor. It can be found in specialty markets (I get mine from Shlomi Glatt in Brooklyn), but can be omitted if you can’t find it. • The total measurements for the salt, nigella seeds and ground mahlab in the list below are somewhat approximate. I recommend measuring them out as you’re going — you will need 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon nigella seeds and ½ teaspoon ground mahlab per batch of 2 cups shredded cheese curds. • The cheese balls freeze really well, just package individually in freezer-safe Ziploc bags. 5 ¼ 2 2

pound block mozzarella cheese curds cup kosher salt, divided tablespoons nigella seeds, divided tablespoons ground mahlab, divided (optional)

1. Cut the block of cheese into chunks and, working in batches if necessary, pulse in food processor until coarse and crumbly. 2. Measure 2 cups of processed cheese curd in a glass measuring cup. Add 1 heaping teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon nigella seeds and ½ teaspoon ground mahlab, if desired. Mix well, then transfer to a glass pie dish. Microwave on high for 2 minutes, until melted. 3. While the cheese is melting, place a strainer in the sink alongside a large bowl of ice water. Once melted, pour curd into the strainer and strain well. With the ball in your hands, make a circle in the center (like a bagel) and stretch into a large circle. Form into a twist and stretch, then twist it on itself 3-4 times until twisted into a knot. Drop in the bowl of prepared ice water and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. Repeat with remaining cheese curds. 4. To serve, “string” the cheese with gloved hands. 18

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NOTE: To freeze, arrange raw sambousak on a baking sheet in a single layer and freeze for about 1-2 hours, then transfer to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag. Bake straight from the freezer for about 20 minutes. FO R T H E D O U G H :

3 1 2 ¼

cups all-purpose flour cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature teaspoons kosher salt, dissolved in ½ cup cold water cup sesame seeds (optional)

FO R T H E F I L L I N G :

3 2 1 1

cups shredded Muenster or mozzarella cheese eggs, beaten teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. For the dough, mix flour and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer or food processor until coarse crumbs form. Add salt water to the food processor and continue to mix until a ball of dough forms. 2. For the filling, mix ingredients until combined. 3. To shape, form a walnut-sized ball of dough and dip into sesame seeds, if desired. Press dough into a small circle using either a tortilla press, the bottom of a glass or the heel of your palm. (Alternatively, roll dough out to ½-1-inch thickness and use cookie cutters or a glass to cut dough circles.) 4. Place a heaping teaspoon of the filling into the center of the circle, then fold in half and press edge to seal. Flute the edge with your fingers or crimp with a fork. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Bake for 13-15 minutes, until bottoms are golden brown. C H A N G E I T U P:

Use the cheese filling to make delicious cheese bourekas — follow instructions for the boureka recipe below.

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TRADITION

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TRADITION

Cheddar-Olive Bites Yield: 4-5 dozen

The combination of the salty cheese and olives works so well with the mild, buttery dough. They are addictive, so I suggest doubling the recipe! NOTE: To freeze, arrange raw cheese balls on a baking sheet in a single layer and freeze for about 1-2 hours, then transfer to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag. Bake straight from the freezer for about 30 minutes. 3 1 1 1 1 ¼ 4-5

cups all-purpose flour cup (2 sticks) butter cup shredded cheddar cheese teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt, dissolved in ½ cup cold water cup sesame seeds dozen pimento-stuffed olives

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix flour and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer or food processor, until coarse crumbs form. Add cheddar cheese and baking powder and mix until just incorporated. Add salt water to the food processor and continue to mix until a ball of dough forms. 2. Form walnut-sized balls, roll in sesame seeds and drop onto parchment-lined baking sheets. Using your finger, make an indent in the middle of each ball. Place an olive in the center, pressing down to secure. Bake for 18 minutes. C H A N G E I T U P:

Make cheese twists instead: Roll small pieces of dough into 3-inch logs, then twist 2 logs together. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and kosher salt. Bake as directed.

Spanach Jiben

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and 1 teaspoon salt and sauté until onions are translucent, about 7-8 minutes. Add spinach, then lower heat and cook, covered, for 20 minutes, until spinach is fully defrosted. Remove from heat. Add 2 cups cheese, eggs and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and mix until combined. 2. Arrange pie shells on parchment-lined baking sheets and spoon spinach mixture into the shells. Sprinkle with remaining ½ cup cheese. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until deeply golden. C H A N G E I T U P:

Use the spinach filling to make delicious spinach bourekas — follow instructions for the boureka recipe below.

Mini Pizzas Although not particularly Syrian, there are bound to be a few dozen kids at big Syrian family gatherings, so mini pizzas always find their way onto a dairy mazza spread. Feel free to play around with whatever vegetables that you may have on hand (i.e. mushrooms, peppers, etc.) and get the kids involved. I love making a huge batch of these and freezing them (freezing them cooked, in this case, is easier and less messy), so that I always have them on hand PRO TIP: The mini pizzas come out best when the dough rounds are completely frozen. Once topped, get them into the oven as quickly as possible, which will result in "flatter" pizzas. Once the dough rounds defrost, they rise quicker in the oven, resulting in puffier pizzas.

Yield: 24

A Syrian dairy mazza spread is not complete without spanach jiben (aka spinach quiche). The key is using mini pie/tart shells, which can be found in the freezer section of most kosher supermarkets. Alternatively, use 2 full-size quiche shells (such as Oronoque).

2 1 1½ 1 2½ 3 24

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil small onion, finely diced teaspoons kosher salt, divided (24-ounce) bag frozen spinach cups shredded mozzarella cheese, divided eggs mini pie/tart shells

Frozen mini pizza dough rounds (such as Mazor’s or Amnon’s) Marinara or pizza sauce Shredded cheese Red pepper flakes, garlic powder and dried oregano (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange mini pizza dough rounds on parchment-lined baking sheets. 2. Spread sauce on the rounds, making sure to go all the way to the edges, which will prevent the dough from puffing up too much. Top with cheese and spices, if desired. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until bubbly. MAY 2022

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TRADITION

Potato Bourekas Yield: 2-3 dozen

This is the recipe for those who may not eat dairy, just simply use a non-dairy butter substitute — dare I say they will be just as delicious!

1 1 12 1 1

(8-ounce) container labneh cup shredded mozzarella cheese kalamata olives, chopped teaspoon lemon zest egg

FO R ASS E M B LY:

NOTE: To freeze, arrange raw bourekas on a baking sheet in a single layer and freeze for about 1-2 hours, then transfer to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag. Bake straight from the freezer for about 30 minutes.

2-3 1

FO R T H E F I L L I N G :

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix filling ingredients until combined.

5 1 2 1 3

tablespoons butter, divided large onion, thinly sliced teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided Yukon gold potatoes, cubed

FO R ASS E M B LY:

2-3 1

dozen puff pastry squares egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water Black and white sesame seeds (optional)

1. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a sauté pan over low-medium heat. Add onions, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper and cook for 45-60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until caramelized. 2. Meanwhile, place cubed potatoes in a pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Cook until fork tender, about 25 minutes. Drain potatoes, reserving about ¼ cup of the cooking liquid. 3. Return potatoes to the pot and add remaining 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Mash well, adding reserved water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until smooth. Add caramelized onions and mix well. 4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Add 1 heaping tablespoon of potato mixture to a square of puff pastry. Fold over and crimp edges with a fork. 5. Brush with egg wash and top with sesame seeds, if desired. Repeat with remaining puff pastry squares and filling. Bake for 25 minutes, until puffed and golden.

Mediterranean Bourekas Yield: 2-3 dozen

This recipe happened on somewhat of a whim in an effort to use up leftover labneh. Don’t skimp on the za’atar — the combination is perfect. NOTE: To freeze, arrange raw bourekas on a baking sheet in a single layer and freeze for about 1-2 hours, then transfer to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag. Bake straight from the freezer for about 30 minutes.

FO R T H E F I L L I N G :

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dozen puff pastry squares egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water Za’atar, for garnish

2. Add 1 heaping tablespoon of filling to a square of puff pastry. Fold over and crimp edges with a fork. 3. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with za’atar. Repeat with remaining puff pastry squares and filling. Bake for 25 minutes, until puffed and golden.

Vegan Lachmagine Yield: 48

This is my basic lachmagine recipe, but instead of ground meat I used vegan ground meat. I wasn’t sure how it would come out, being that lachmagine is so traditional, but the results were astounding! Though tamarind is more traditional, prune butter (aka lekvar) — not just for your hamentashen — is my favorite substitute and much easier to find. It checks all the boxes of sweet, savory and tart. 1 2 2 1 2 1 1

small onion (12-ounce) packages mini pizza dough rounds (such as Mazor’s) (12-ounce) packages vegan meat substitute (such as Impossible Foods or Beyond Meat) (18-ounce) jar prune butter tablespoons tomato paste teaspoon allspice teaspoon cinnamon Pine nuts, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Using a box grater or cheese grater, grate onion over a large bowl. Add vegan meat, prune butter, tomato paste, allspice and cinnamon and mix until just incorporated. 2. Arrange mini pizza dough rounds on parchmentlined baking sheets. Using gloved hands, spread vegan meat mixture on each circle, spreading all the way to the edges, which will prevent the dough from puffing up too much. 3. Top each round with 3 pine nuts. Bake for 28-30 minutes. PRO TIP: To prevent meat from falling off the lachmagine, don’t allow the pizza dough to thaw — once it does, it rises slightly and prevents the meat from “sticking” well. Therefore, for best results, use dough rounds directly from the freezer.

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TRADITION

Mozelle Goldstein is a pediatric hematology/oncology nurse by day and recipe developer and baker by night, selling her baked goods like sourdough, challah, cookies and Syrian specialties on a weekly basis out of her home. She lives in Woodmere, NY with her husband and three children. Find her on Instagram at @sy_in_li.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

FOR DECADES, KOSHER CHEESE has been pretty basic — shredded mozzarella, Muenster, sliced Swiss and American cheese and a handful of other semi-soft and hard cheeses have dominated the market. In the early 2000s, the kosher market was beginning to shift as consumers’ palates were expanding and the variety of kosher food in almost every category began to grow for many reasons. The world of blogging made the world smaller and introduced people to new ideas, concepts and recipes from all over the globe. Kosher consumers were in a better financial position than previous generations and were able to afford more travel, thereby leading to an exposure to different cuisines. Companies

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responded by creating new products to match the interest of their consumers and new restaurants opened to further expand these kosher concepts. Basil, a dairy restaurant that opened in Crown Heights in 2010, had a popular fried goat cheese salad on their menu, for example, which was novel at the time. Fresh mozzarella became available at upscale supermarkets like Pomegranate in Brooklyn and blew consumers minds. While there has been tremendous growth in the kosher cheese industry, the reality is that there is still a world of cheese yet to be discovered. Brands like Natural & Kosher (see page 100 for more on this brand), Makabi and The Cheese Guy have slowly been introducing new cheese products with much success.

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BRENT DELMAN BUTCHER'S CUT

GRADUATED FROM George Washington University with an MBA and began a flourishing career in food marketing, specifically with cheese. A few years after graduating from college, Brent decided to enhance his observance of kosher and came face to face with the limited kosher cheese market. “Having grown up in a non-kosher home, I knew what we were missing. I don’t think food should be an obstacle in anyone’s spiritual path,” Brent says. Thus began his journey into cheesemaking and The Cheese Guy brand was born. Brent saw an opening in the kosher marketplace and has made a career of producing artisanal kosher cheeses ever since. Brent is so passionate about cheesemaking that he even has his own cheese cave at his home in Westchester where he experiments with the process. He is a true cheese connoisseur and was the perfect person to walk us through the process. WHAT IS AGED CHEESE?

Aged cheese refers to cheese that has matured for over six months. For halachic purposes, these cheeses actually require a wait time between eating the cheese and then eating meat. Aged cheeses are usually more flavorful and complex and, like a bottle of wine, provide a unique culinary experience. HOW IS CHEESE AGED?

Soft cheeses are made by separating the curds (solids) from the whey (liquids). It’s simpler than you might think to make at home — turn to page 127 to see Naomi Ross’ step-by-step guide for making paneer (a semi-soft Indian cheese). Fresh cheeses, such as mozzarella cheese, contain a high percentage of liquid/milk and don’t require additional ingredients or time (see page 18 for Mozelle Goldstein’s recipe for Syrian string cheese). To make aged cheese, on the other hand, other ingredients are added to soft cheese and are set aside in controlled temperatures to mature and develop deeper flavor profiles. The result is hard, aged cheese. THE KOSHER FACTOR:

Rennet is the most common ingredient used to age cheese. Most cheesemakers use animal rennet (a complex set of enzymes), sourced from the stomach of a calf or lamb. Being that rennet is 30

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an animal product and the core factor of a kosher diet is refraining from mixing milk and meat, kosher cheese requires the use of vegetarian rennet or microbial rennet. Lipase, another popular enzyme and ingredient you will find in aged cheeses, is less common and more of a specialty item. However, it is growing in popularity because of the prevalence of the vegetarian diet. What is most fascinating about Brent’s cheeses is that he inadvertently entered the vegetarian cheese marketplace as a result of the kosher cheese making process. The Cheese Guy offers the largest selection of vegetarian cheeses in the world. His cheeses at Whole Foods, for example, are obviously appreciated by kosher consumers, but also by vegetarians on the search for high-quality cheeses that don’t contain animal rennet. WHAT DIFFERENTIATES ONE AGED CHEESE FROM ANOTHER?

There are many factors that dictate how the end product will taste. There is a wealth of information on this topic; the basic difference between different aged cheeses boils down to the type of animal it comes from and the process of maturation it goes through. ANIMAL:

• Goat, cow, sheep and buffalo are all kosher animals that produce very different types of milk that result in very different tasting cheeses. • The breed of the animal and where it comes from makes a difference too. Jersey cows, for example, are renowned for their superior milk. • An animal’s diet and the overall health of the animal impacts the flavor and quality of the milk, which will then impact the quality of the cheese. PROCESS:

• Once the curds are isolated and rennet and/or enzymes are added, the curds are pressed into molds and tightly packed to extract more liquid. • The temperature the cheese is stored in and the length of the aging process will determine flavor and texture of the cheese. www.fleishigs.com

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USING AGED CHEESE

BUTCHER'S CUT

THE MOST COMMON USE for aged cheese is to enjoy it as is, whether on a cheese board or shaved (using a vegetable peeler) on top of a salad. Another novel use for aged cheese is to keep Parmesan rinds in the freezer to add to dairy soup or sauce for added depth of flavor. Here are some popular and accessible kosher aged cheese options:

PARMESAN

CHEDDAR

Authentic Parmigiano Reggiano is a hard cheese that originates from cows raised in specific provinces in Italy. The milk is constantly monitored and controlled to ensure that the cheese is made entirely natural with no additives or preservatives. This cheese is actually protected by a DOP (protected designation of origin) — only cheese produced under the Consortium’s strict production rules obtain the Parmigiano Reggiano trademark. Bertinelli is the only brand that has gotten official Parmigiano Reggiano status from Italy and is certified kosher by OK. Any other cheese that says Parmesan is similar and “inspired” by the original. The Cheese Guy has a few Parmesan cheeses available and each works in classic recipes that call for Parmesan cheese. Our personal favorite for cheese boards is the four-year aged Parmesan. It is an incredibly complex cheese with sweet, nutty and creamy notes. The tiny cheese crystals within give the cheese a slight crunch, making it super memorable. Cheese crystals form from the aging process and actually are a sign of a well-aged cheese. “I received many phone calls about the crystals from customers who were never exposed to such cheese. They assumed there was something wrong with it!” shares Brent. Parmesan can be paired with many types of wine from white to red and is delicious with Riesling, Syrah or Malbec.

Cheddar is available in both aged and non-aged. Classic cheddar, which is a typical hard cheese, can be used in many ways, from raw in cheese boards to melted in grilled cheese sandwiches — cheddar's uses are endless. The Cheese Guy has a Vermont-aged cheddar made from raw milk. The milk is derived from cows that graze in the grass in the mountains of Vermont. It pairs wonderfully with a hoppy IPA beer. AGED HAVARTI

Havarti is a great melting cheese. Kosher havarti is considered aged more from a halachic perspective than a cheese perspective. It is delicious sliced and eaten as is and amazing in grilled cheese or in a sandwich with Dijon mustard and apples. It pairs well with a light fruity wine. MANCHEGO

Manchego took a while to make kosher. It is sheep's milk cheese from the Lamancha area of Spain. Savory, nutty and a little sweet, manchego can be aged, on average, from 3 to 12 months. The Cheese Guy’s manchego is a six month age. Figs in all forms and roasted almonds are classic pairings for manchego. It pairs well with regional wines like Rioja. PECORINO ROMANO

ASIAGO

Brent calls this cheese “parm light” because it’s sweeter than Parmesan and works wonderfully in salad dressings or shaved over roasted vegetables. It’s often used in pie crusts to impart a savory flavor. Grate some Asiago into a savory pie dough or even into the quiche on page 72. Asiago pairs well with a Pinot Gris or light Belgian ale.

Similar to Parmesan cheese, but made from sheep’s milk, Pecorino is bold, sharp, salty and savory. The Cheese Guy’s Pecorino is aged from 1 to 2 years and originates from Sardinia, Italy. It is very good for grating or shredding over pizza, pasta, salads or soups. It pairs well with fresh fruit and a drizzle of acacia or chestnut honey, along with regional wines like Chianti.

The Cheese Guy cheeses are available online with nationwide shipping from growandbehold.com. 32

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While not at all aged, we couldn’t publish this issue without featuring the wonders of burrata cheese. The latest cheese to hit the kosher market, burrata has been around since the 1920s and was created to use the leftover cheese pieces from the mozzarella making process. Instead of discarding leftover pieces of fresh mozzarella, cheesemakers began to fill the center of fresh mozzarella with it and added

cream inside as well to preserve the cheese within. This created a premium mozzarella tasting experience. Burrata is refreshing, rich and delicious as is, but when drizzled with balsamic reduction and extra-virgin olive oil and served alongside toasted sourdough, tomatoes and basil, it is even better. It’s also magical when broken up and served on top of fresh hot pizza. Find kosher burrata by The Cheese Guy (OU cholov yisroel) in stores and online (growandbehold.com) and Grandma's Cheese (OK cholov stam) in stores and online (grandmascheese.com). MAY 2022

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a H c k e t e s l el

Eggs are one of the most nutritious foods you’ll find. Rich in B vitamins and minerals like iron and selenium, eggs are a complete protein and one of the few foods that naturally contain vitamin D. Numerous varieties line the supermarket shelves and you may have wondered what the different colors or labels (brown, white, cage free, free range, pasture raised) really mean. Which are healthiest? Are they worth the additional cost? What are the benefits? Brown eggs are often thought to be healthier or more natural, but nutritionally and tastewise, they’re equivalent to white eggs. The size and color of the eggshells just depends on the breed of the chicken from which they came. The nutritional value of all eggs is equivalent: 1 large egg has 70-80 calories, 6-7 grams of protein and 5 grams of fat. There can be some differences in the nutritional content based on the chickens’ diet and environment in which they were raised.

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Breaking Down Humpty Dumpty.

CONVENTIONAL EGGS:

ORGANIC EGGS:

The most common supermarket eggs come from hens that are typically fed grains that are supplemented with vitamins and minerals and can be treated with antibiotics and/ or hormones.

Hens that are fed certified organic feed — free of pesticides, hormones and genetically modified food — lay organic eggs. They must also be cage-free and have outdoor access.

CAGE-FREE EGGS:

The feed of these hens is supplemented with an omega-3 source, like flax seeds, giving the eggs more heart-healthy omega-3 fats than conventional eggs.

These hens are not kept in cages, have unlimited access to food and water and are free to roam the hen house. However, they don’t necessarily have access to the outdoors. FREE-RANGE EGGS:

These hens have access to an outdoor area, though there is no minimum amount of time or space required by the USDA. 38

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OMEGA-3 ENRICHED EGGS:

PASTURE-RAISED EGGS:

These eggs are produced on small, local farms where hens can walk freely, roam the pasture and eat grass in addition to other natural feed. They’re pricier and can be www.fleishigs.com

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harder to find in local supermarkets. Their yolks are a vibrant golden-orange color and may offer a richer taste due to the additional carotenoids (an antioxidant) from their diet and time spent outside in the sun. Several published studies (including the Journal of Food Science, 2014 and Penn State’s College of Agricultural Sciences, 2010) have found that pasture-raised eggs have twice the amount of healthy omega-3s, less cholesterol and saturated fat and more vitamins (A, E and D) than conventional eggs. There are plenty of options these days, but whichever kind you choose, eggs are a nutritious, healthy and convenient food. There are so many ways to enjoy the eggcellent egg.

FLAX EGG

Don’t eat eggs? Flax eggs can be substituted in many recipes like pancakes, cookies, cakes, muffins, brownies and more. To make the equivalent of 1 egg, whisk 3 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon ground flax seeds (flaxseed meal). Refrigerate for about 10-15 minutes, until it thickens and has a gel-like consistency. Add to any recipe as you would a regular egg.

Celeste Hackel is a certified health coach from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition and holds a master’s degree in Organizational Psychology from Columbia University. Her passion for health, wellness and simplifying healthy living and cooking inspires her recipes, products and programs. Follow Celeste on Instagram @healthy.to.the.core where she shares easy, nutritious recipes and health tips. MAY 2022

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Soft-Boiled Eggs By: Shifra Klein

Soft-boiled eggs, otherwise known as

jammy eggs (for obvious reasons), are the perfect protein to add to any light meal. They can be stored in the fridge for a few days, making them a good make-ahead staple to have on hand. See pages 71 and 75 for how the softboiled eggs are used in the Shavuos feasts.

NOTE: A cool trick I learned is lining the pot with a small kitchen towel, thus protecting the eggs and preventing them from cracking in the pot. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil and prepare a bowl with ice water. Add desired amount of eggs, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 7 minutes. Transfer eggs to the bowl of ice water using a slotted spoon. Peel once cool enough to handle. N OT E O N B O I L I N G T I M E S :

6 minutes: Whites just set; runny yolk 7 minutes: Whites set; partially runny yolk 8 minutes: Whites and yolks set; some jamminess in the center of yolk

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Israeli and Russian parents and grandparents, I was exposed to sour cream (or shamenet, as we called it) from a young age. When Shavuot came along, sour cream really had its moment to shine. Mixed with radishes and cucumbers, it provided a cool, crunchy and refreshing alternative to salad. We also ate chilled sour cream alongside a plate of freshly fried cheese blintzes — there is nothing quite like the contrast of the hot, crisp blintzes and the cold, tangy sour cream. There is something phenomenal about sour cream, which is an offshoot of heavy cream with a higher butterfat ratio. While traditionally playing a background role as an ingredient in ranch dip or as a cheesecake topping, sour cream can offer so much as a star ingredient. Top baked potatoes with sour cream and you’ll see what I mean (recipe follows). The following recipes are just a few delicious ways to highlight sour cream.

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Creamy Sweet Potatoes Serves: 8

Depending on your crowd, adjust the quantities as desired. The real magic here is that the sweet potatoes, when roasted on high heat, develop a pudding-like texture when mixed with sour cream. NOTE: We find organic sweet potatoes to be far superior in taste and texture, but the recipe will work with any variety. 4 2 2 1 1

medium organic sweet potatoes teaspoons flaky salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper cup sour cream bunch chives or scallions, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Roast sweet potatoes on a baking sheet for 50-60 minutes, until fork tender. 2. Halve lengthwise, then season with salt and pepper. Top with about 2 tablespoons sour cream per sweet potato half. Sprinkle with chives. Serve warm.

Sour Cream Cacio e Pepe Serves: 8

Cacio e pepe is a classic Italian pasta dish, which literally means “cheese and pepper.” It is very simple — butter, Parmesan or Pecorino and lots of freshly cracked black pepper. I updated this classic dish with sour cream instead of butter and added some lemon as well for brightness. 1 2 1 1½

pound pasta, cooked according to package directions cups sour cream cup grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese Zest and juice of 1 lemon teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper

While pasta is still hot, mix with sour cream, cheese, lemon juice and black pepper. Garnish with lemon zest.

Radish Salad Serves: 6-8

2 1 1 1 3 1

cups sour cream tablespoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish bunch radishes, halved or quartered Persian cucumbers, sliced bunch scallions, thinly sliced

1. Mix sour cream with lemon juice and black pepper. Spread on a platter. 2. Top with radishes, cucumbers and scallions. Garnish with some more black pepper.

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Sour Cream Apple Pie Serves: 8-10

FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

cups all-purpose flour cup chopped pecans or walnuts cup sugar cup packed light brown sugar teaspoon cinnamon

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teaspoon kosher salt tablespoons cold butter

FO R T H E P I E :

This unique version of apple pie, which uses sour cream for richness and tanginess, is perfect for Shavuot. While I prefer Granny Smith apples for the crisp texture and slightly tart flavor, any variety (or a combination) will work.

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1 1 ¾ 2 2 ⅛ 1 3

store bought pie crust cup sour cream cup sugar tablespoons all-purpose flour teaspoons pure vanilla extract teaspoon kosher salt egg apples, thinly sliced (should yield about 6 cups sliced apples)

1. For the topping, mix flour, nuts, sugars, cinnamon and salt. Using a pastry blender or fork, cut in butter until mixture

resembles coarse crumbs, then refrigerate to keep cold. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Unroll pie crust into a 9-inch glass pie plate and crimp edges. 3. For the filling, beat sour cream, sugar, flour, vanilla, egg and salt until well combined. Gently fold in apples and toss to coat. Pour into pie crust and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F and continue to bake for 30 minutes longer. 4. Sprinkle topping over pie and bake for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool completely on a cooling rack. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

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Pretzel Bites with Beer Cheese Dip Serves: 8

Soft pretzels and cheese dip is a classic American combination. If you don’t feel up to making homemade pretzel bites, there are some store bought options available (i.e. Pretzilla). For a homemade taste, bake store bought pretzel bites according to package directions, then immediately brush with melted butter. N OT E S :

• You can make the pretzel bites in a stand mixer or by hand. Either way, the dough will come out really well. • Shred the cheese on your own to ensure a smoother sauce. • Use the lightest beer possible — stronger beers tend to overpower the dip. FO R T H E P R E TZ E L B I T E S :

2½ 1 2 2 4-4½ 2 ¼

cups warm water, divided (¼-ounce) package active dry yeast tablespoons brown sugar teaspoons kosher salt cups all-purpose flour tablespoons baking soda Pretzel salt, for sprinkling cup melted butter

FO R T H E C H E E S E D I P:

1 1 ½ ½ ¼ 1 ¼ 1 2

tablespoon butter tablespoon all-purpose flour teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon paprika cup milk teaspoon Dijon mustard cup light beer cup shredded cheddar cheese tablespoons heavy cream

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. For the pretzel bites, mix 1½ cups water, yeast and sugar and set aside for 3 minutes, until slightly foamy. Add salt and flour, 1 cup at a time, and mix until well combined. Knead for about 10 minutes. Cover with a towel and set aside to rest for 30 minutes. 2. While the dough is resting, prepare the

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water bath by mixing baking soda and remaining 1 cup warm water in a large bowl. 3. Divide the dough into four equal portions and roll into long (2-inch-thick) ropes. Using a floured bench scraper or non-serrated knife, slice ropes into 1-inch pieces. 4. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Dip each piece of dough into the water bath, let the excess drip off and place onto the baking sheet. Sprinkle with pretzel salt. 5. Bake for 12-15 minutes, until golden brown. Immediately toss in melted butter until well coated. 6. For the beer cheese dip, melt butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk until incorporated. Cook for about 2 minutes, until lightly golden. Add garlic powder and paprika. Add milk, Dijon mustard and beer and continue to whisk until combined. Add cheese and continue to whisk until smooth and fully melted. Add cream. Serve hot with buttered pretzel bites.

1. For the dough, dissolve yeast in warm milk and set aside for 10 minutes, until slightly foamy. Add remaining ingredients and stir. Knead for about 10 minutes. Cover with a towel and set aside to rest for 10 minutes. 2. While the dough is resting, prepare the garlic butter by mixing butter, Parmesan, garlic, salt and pepper. Set aside. 3. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a large rectangle about ¼-inch thick. Spread garlic butter over the entire surface and roll up tightly, jelly roll-style, to form a log. Cut the log into 12 equal portions and place into a greased oven-safe dish. Cover and set aside to rise for 1 hour. 4. Preheat oven to 375°F and bake for 2025 minutes, until golden brown. 5. Meanwhile, prepare the butter topping by mixing butter, Parmesan and parsley. Brush rolls with butter topping immediately after coming out of the oven.

Parmesan Garlic Butter Rolls Serves: 12

Buttery, rich and fluffy, these rolls are a delicious accompaniment to your Shavuos feast. FO R T H E D O U G H :

1 ¾ ¼ 1 2 2 3

teaspoon active dry yeast cup warm milk cup melted butter egg tablespoons sugar teaspoons kosher salt cups all-purpose flour

FO R T H E GA R L I C B U T T E R:

¾ ½ 3 1 ¼

cup softened butter cup grated Parmesan cheese tablespoons minced garlic teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

FO R T H E B U T T E R TO P P I N G :

½ ¼ ¼

cup melted butter cup grated Parmesan cheese cup minced curly parsley

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Adina Silberman is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking, with a simple food philosophy — she cooks backwards, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks turn their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and two daughters. MAY 2022

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We were inspired to explore Indian cuisine further after reviewing Thali by Maunika Gowardhan in the restaurant issue (issue #33), where we discussed the underrepresentation of Indian cuisine in the kosher restaurant scene. We truly enjoy the deep, rich and unique flavors that Indian cuisine offers and have dabbled with it in our own kitchen, especially after Eitan Bernath shared a full Indian

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menu back in 2019 for our Sukkos issue (issue #11 — recipes available on the app). While there are a select few kosher authentic Indian restaurants, we are still dreaming of the day when Indian cuisine becomes more accessible to kosher consumers. The recipes below are a combination of authentic and inspired Indian recipes that we hope you try and enjoy. - SHIFRA

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Palak Paneer Serves: 4

By: Adina Silberman

Best served alongside traditional Indian bread such as naan, this dish, which consists of spinach and paneer, an Indian cheese, can also be eaten with pita bread or even rice. Try not to overcook the spinach, so that the vibrant green color remains. E D I TO R’S N OT E S :

• Feel free to use frozen chopped spinach, just thaw and completely strain before using. Skip the blanching step since frozen spinach is already cooked. • See page 127 for a step-by-step on making paneer from scratch — it’s surprisingly easy. Kosher haloumi can be easier to find in stores than paneer and is very similar in taste and texture. Otherwise, look for The Cheese Guy panoumi cheese, which is a hybrid. 2 ¾ 2 4 4 2 2 1 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ 2 ½ ½

(9-ounce) bags fresh spinach cup water tablespoons olive oil shallots, minced cloves garlic, minced tablespoons minced fresh ginger tablespoons butter tablespoon chili paste (optional) teaspoon cumin teaspoon coriander teaspoon garam masala teaspoon chili powder teaspoon kosher salt cups cubed paneer (page 127) cup heavy cream, plus more for serving tomato, for serving Fresh cilantro, for garnish

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1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and prepare a bowl of ice water. Blanch spinach in the boiling water for 30-60 seconds, then immediately transfer it to the bowl of ice water to shock it. Squeeze out all the water, then transfer to a blender with water and purée until smooth. 2. Heat oil in a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add shallots, garlic and ginger and sauté until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add butter, chili paste (if using) and spices. Sauté for another 5 minutes. 3. Add spinach purée to the onion mixture and cook over high heat for about 2 minutes. Add cubed paneer and gently toss to coat. Continue to cook for another 2 minutes. Add heavy cream and cook for another 2 minutes. 4. Plate palak paneer and drizzle with heavy cream. Squeeze tomato on top, then garnish with fresh cilantro. M A K E I T V EGA N

Use non-dairy butter or oil instead of butter, 3 cups chickpeas instead of paneer and full-fat canned coconut milk instead of cream.

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Seared Halibut with Curry Butter

Butter Rice with Cumin Crunch

Serves: 6

Serves: 4-6

By: Shifra Klein

FO R T H E H A L I B U T:

3 6 1½

tablespoons vegetable oil (4-ounce) halibut fillets, patted dry teaspoons flaky sea salt

FO R T H E C U R RY B U T T E R:

1 1 ¼

cup (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature tablespoon curry powder teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Season fish with salt and sear for 3-5 minutes, until underside is golden brown and releases easily. Flip and sear on the other side for another 3-4 minutes. 2. Mash butter with curry powder and salt. Top each fillet with a dollop of curry butter. Serve immediately.

By: Shifra Klein

The trick with this rice dish is to make sure the water is boiling. The butter adds a wonderful, rich flavor to the rice and is a perfect side dish for Shavuos. FO R T H E B U T T E R R I C E :

3 1 2 3 2 1

tablespoons butter, divided tablespoon olive oil cups basmati rice, rinsed cups boiling water teaspoons kosher salt cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley

FO R T H E C U M I N C RU N C H :

2 1

tablespoons butter tablespoon cumin seeds

1. Heat butter and olive oil in a pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add rice and sauté until coated and translucent, 3-4 minutes. 2. Add boiling water and salt. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and mix in herbs. 3. For the cumin crunch, melt butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add cumin seeds and fry until fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Mix into rice.

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Tomato Salad with Spiced Roasted Chickpeas & Herbed Yogurt Serves: 4-8

4 ½ 1 1 1½ ½

By: Shifra Klein

firm vine tomatoes, thinly sliced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garam masala small red onion, thinly sliced cups Spiced Roasted Chickpeas (recipe follows) Herbed Yogurt (recipe follows) cup packed fresh mint leaves, for garnish

1. Arrange tomatoes on a platter and season with salt and garam masala. Let marinate at room temperature for 10-20 minutes. 2. Top with red onions and roasted chickpeas. Drizzle with yogurt and garnish with mint.

Spiced Roasted Chickpeas Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss 1 (16-ounce) can drained and rinsed chickpeas with 1½ tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon curry powder, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 20-30 minutes, until golden brown and crispy.

Herbed Yogurt Yield: 1½ cups

Blend 1 cup plain Greek yogurt, ½ cup packed fresh cilantro, ⅓ cup packed fresh mint, 1 jalapeño, 1 garlic clove, 1 teaspoon honey, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 teaspoon kosher salt until smooth.

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When planning the issue, we realized that the first night of Shavuos falls out on a Saturday night (the sometimes dreaded three-day Yom Tov!), which inspired me to think about a stress-free dairy meal that can be made in advance, easily heated up once Shavuos begins after Shabbos is over and won’t feel extremely heavy after a whole Shabbos. It can also

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easily be served at room temperature for a light Yom Tov lunch. I immediately remembered the amazing Israeli breakfast I had at Almah, a café in Crown Heights, which exemplified the beloved Israeli breakfast experience — more than just a meal, it’s a true feast. A delicious quiche and Israeli-inspired Greek salad round out the meal. - SHIFRA

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Za’atar Feta Salad Serves: 6-8

By: Shifra Klein

This is an Israeli take on the classic Greek salad — saltiness from the feta, freshness from the vegetables, tanginess from the vinaigrette and crunchiness from the roasted chickpeas. The best part is that all the components can be prepared ahead of time and put together in no time at all. NOTE: Instead of roasting chickpeas from scratch, you can substitute with crunchy chickpea snacks, which are widely available in most supermarkets. FO R T H E V I N A I G R E T T E :

¼ ¼ 1 1 1 1½ ½ ½

cup olive oil cup fresh lemon juice tablespoon balsamic vinegar tablespoon honey clove garlic, minced teaspoons za’atar, plus more for garnish teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E SA L A D:

6 1½ 2 ½ 1 1½

cups mixed greens cups sliced tomatoes Persian cucumbers, sliced cup olives cup crumbled feta cheese, divided cups Spiced Roasted Chickpeas (page 64)

1. For the vinaigrette, add all ingredients to a jar, seal tightly and shake until fully emulsified. 2. Toss greens, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives in a large bowl. Add ½ cup feta and vinaigrette; lightly toss to coat. Top with remaining ½ cup feta and a sprinkle of za’atar.

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Breakfast Board By: Shifra Klein

The best part of this breakfast board, much like the style of other boards (i.e. fish, charcuterie, etc.), is that your family or guests can pick and choose what they like. You can never go wrong — this is your chance to get creative!

Za’atar Seared Tuna (recipe follows) Halved soft-boiled eggs (page 40) Roasted sweet potatoes (recipe follows) Sliced avocado Smoked salmon Hot peppers Assorted olives Sour cream sprinkled with sumac Vine tomatoes

Za’atar Seared Tuna Serves: 4-8

If you’re in the mood for fresh fish, but don’t want much of a hassle, seared tuna is the perfect choice. The process from start to finish takes a matter of minutes. 4 2 1½ 3

(8-ounce) tuna fillets tablespoons za’atar teaspoons kosher salt tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Pat tuna dry with paper towels. Preheat a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. 2. Mix za’atar and salt on a plate and press tuna fillets in the mixture on all sides. 3. Add oil to the hot pan and sear tuna for 1-1½ minutes per side for medium-rare or 2-2½ minutes for medium. Remove from heat and let rest for a few minutes before slicing.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes A big batch of roasted sweet potatoes is wonderful to have on hand for salads, boards and even snacking. Preheat oven to 425°F. Peel and cut 3 sweet potatoes into ½-inch cubes. Toss on a large baking sheet with 2-3 tablespoons oil, 1½ teaspoons kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Roast in a single layer for 35 minutes, tossing halfway through.

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Roasted Sweet Potato Quiche Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

I love the sweetness that sweet potatoes bring to the quiche, but you can truly use any roasted vegetable. The sweet potatoes round out the salty and savory flavors of the crust and cheese — I prefer a mixture of Muenster and Swiss, but any shredded cheese blend will work. 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1½ 4 ½ ⅓

frozen pie shell (such as Oronoque) tablespoon butter tablespoon olive oil large onion teaspoon kosher salt cups roasted sweet potatoes (recipe above) cups shredded cheese cups half and half eggs cup chopped fresh parsley cup chopped fresh chives

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Place crust on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Set aside to cool. Lower oven temperature to 375°F. 2. Heat butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and salt and sauté for 5-7 minutes, until translucent and lightly golden. 3. Pour onions into the cooled pie crust. Top with roasted sweet potatoes and shredded cheese.

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4. Whisk half and half, eggs, parsley and chives, then pour into the crust. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until golden and set. Let cool for 15 minutes before slicing.

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There is something so inviting about the simplicity of the ingredients used in the Polish-inspired feast — humble eggs, potatoes and farmer cheese are elevated into recipes that you will keep coming back to. - SHIFRA

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Roasted Potatoes with Soft-Boiled Eggs and Smoked Salmon Serves: 6

By: Shifra Klein

Feel free to boil the potatoes instead (see method on page 22), but roasting them gives another level of flavor.

1½ 1 4 1 1 ⅓ 1

pounds baby potatoes teaspoon flaky sea salt soft-boiled eggs (page 40), peeled and halved cup sour cream cup hot smoked salmon, flaked cup chopped chives teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange potatoes on a baking sheet and roast until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly. 2. Once cool enough to handle, slice potatoes in half. Arrange on a platter and season with flaky salt. 3. Add soft-boiled eggs to the platter. Top with dollops of sour cream and flaked smoked salmon. Garnish with chives and black pepper.

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Polish Farmer Cheese Dumplings

Naleśniki (Polish Rolled Crêpes)

Serves: 8

Yield: 12 crêpes

By: Adina Silberman

Known in Polish as kluski leniwe (aka “lazy dumplings”), these dumplings are made with just four ingredients and are a classic comfort food. If making in advance, cover and reheat separately from the breadcrumbs. Add 1-2 tablespoons of sugar to the dough for a sweeter experience. FO R T H E D O U G H :

1 3 2 1-2 1

(16-ounce) package farmer cheese eggs cups all-purpose flour tablespoons sugar (optional) teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E TO P P I N G :

½ ½

cup (1 stick) butter cup breadcrumbs

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Mix cheese and eggs until well combined. Add flour, sugar (if desired) and salt and mix until a dough forms (it should be slightly tacky, but not sticky).

By: Adina Silberman

These crêpes are a cousin to the blintz, although they are shaped differently once filled. They take some trial and error, but once you get the hang of it, it should be fairly simple. The first crêpe should be the trial one and it’s okay if it doesn’t come out right – use that as an opportunity to adjust the heat and technique. FO R T H E C R Ê P E S :

1 1 ¼ 4 2

cup milk cup all-purpose flour cup (½ stick) butter, melted and slightly cooled, plus more for frying eggs tablespoons sugar Pinch of kosher salt

1. Whisk milk, flour, melted butter, eggs, sugar and salt until smooth. 2. Heat a small non-stick crêpe or sauté pan (about 6-7-inch) over medium-low heat. Lightly grease with butter. 3. Pour ⅓ cup batter into the pan and swirl around to completely and evenly coat the bottom of the pan. Once the top side looks cooked through, carefully lift the edges of the crêpe and flip. Cook for about 20 seconds on the second side, then flip onto a plate. Continue with remaining batter. 4. Place about 2 tablespoons filling of choice at one end of the crêpe, then roll up tightly like a cigar. To serve, sprinkle with sugar.

FO R T H E F I L L I N G :

1½

cups filling of choice, such as cream cheese or raspberry jam (or both) Sugar, for sprinkling

2. Divide dough into four equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion into a (1-2-inch wide) rope. Slice into 1-inch pieces on the bias. Drop dumplings into boiling water. 3. Meanwhile, melt butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add breadcrumbs and toast until toasted and golden brown. 4. Once dumplings rise to the top of the water, cook for another 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer dumplings into the sauté pan and gently toss in crumbs to coat. Serve immediately.

Sheet Pan Dumplings Serves: 8

Preheat oven to 425°F. Spread spinach mixture from the Spinach, Tomato and Ricotta Tart (page 85) on a greased baking sheet. Top with dumplings and 1¼ cups marinara sauce. Sprinkle 1½ cups shredded mozzarella cheese over the top. Bake for 15 minutes, until cheese is bubbly and golden brown. Serve immediately.

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Arugula Beet Salad Serves: 6

By: Shifra Klein

Arrange 6 cups arugula on a platter. Lightly toss with 1 cup cooked cubed beets and ⅓ cup Honey Mustard Vinaigrette (page 86). Top with 1 cup crumbled goat cheese and garnish with 1 cup trail mix.

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This well-rounded menu is inspired by a dairy Italian feast. The lightness of the salad and bronzino pairs perfectly with the otherwise heavier dairy options on our round up. - SHIFRA

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Spinach, Tomato and Ricotta Tart Serves: 8-12

By: Adina Silberman

This is a great dish for a large crowd, but can easily be made into individual portions that resemble bourekas. Simply cut the puff pastry into squares, fill, fold over and seal with a fork. The method for creating a puff pastry crust outlined below can be used easily for other fillings, both savory and sweet. 2 1 2 2 ½ 1 2 2 1 ½

tablespoons olive oil large onion, finely chopped teaspoons granulated garlic teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (24-ounce) bag frozen chopped spinach, thawed and strained cups ricotta cheese sheets thawed frozen puff pastry large tomato, thinly sliced cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, salt and pepper and sauté until golden brown, about 10 minutes. 3. Add chopped spinach and mix until combined. Let cool slightly. Add ricotta cheese and mix well.

1-2 3 1 1 ¼ 1 1 1 2

Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced tablespoons olive oil teaspoon granulated garlic teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup shredded mozzarella cheese cup grated Parmesan cheese egg, beaten scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place puff pastry sheets onto the prepared baking sheet, slightly overlapping, to create a large rectangle. Using a sharp knife, score a 1-inch border around the entire edge, making sure not to cut all the way through. Poke holes all over the surface of the center of the pastry with a fork. 2. Toss potatoes with olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. Sprinkle mozzarella cheese over the center of the pastry, avoiding the border, then arrange potatoes in a single layer on top. Top with Parmesan cheese. 3. Brush the border with egg wash. Cook for 25-30 minutes, until pastry is puffed and potatoes are cooked through. Cut into squares and garnish with scallions.

Lemony Whole Roasted Bronzino Serves: 6

2 ⅓ 2 1

By: Shifra Klein

bronzino, butterflied cup olive oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Juice of ½ lemon lemon, thinly sliced into half moons

4. Place puff pastry sheets onto the prepared baking sheet, slightly overlapping, to create one large rectangle. Using a sharp knife, score a 1-inch border around the entire edge, making sure not to cut all the way through. Poke holes all over the surface of the center of the pastry with a fork. Spread spinach ricotta mixture all over the center of the pastry, avoiding the border.

5. Arrange tomato slices over spinachricotta mixture and top with Parmesan cheese. Cook for 20-25 minutes, until pastry is puffed and cheese has melted. Cut into squares.

2. Place bronzino on a baking sheet and drizzle half the olive oil-lemon mixture inside each fish. Place lemon slices inside each fish. Using a sharp knife, cut small, diagonal slits on the top of each fish. Roast for 15-20 minutes.

Potato Parmesan Tart Serves: 8-12

By: Adina Silberman

This potato topping is great on puff pastry, but can also be used on pizza. Feel free to substitute the cheese listed below for more exotic varieties or whatever you have on hand. 2

sheets puff pastry, thawed

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Mix olive oil, salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Grandma Pizza with Jammy Onions and Ricotta Serves: 8

By: Adina Silberman

This pizza dough is a great base for so many different toppings, but I love the combination of ricotta and the sweet caramelized onions. Although it takes a bit of advance planning, once you have

the dough prepared, you won’t be sorry! This year, Shavuos is on Saturday night, so prepare the dough on Friday and refrigerate it until chag starts. FO R T H E D O U G H :

4 2½ 1 3 1½

cups all-purpose flour teaspoons kosher salt (¼-ounce) package dry yeast tablespoons olive oil cups warm water

FO R T H E JA M M Y O N I O N S :

3-4 ¼ ¼ 1 ¼

Spanish onions, thinly sliced cup olive oil cup honey teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

FO R ASS E M B LY:

⅓ 1 1

cup olive oil (16-ounce) container ricotta cheese, divided teaspoon kosher salt

1. For the dough, mix flour, salt and yeast. Add oil and slowly add water, ¼ cup at a time, and mix (by hand or using the dough hook of a stand mixer) until well incorporated, but not too sticky. You may not need to use the full amount of water. 2. Knead dough for about 10 minutes, until very smooth and soft. Shape into a ball and place into a lightly greased bowl. Cover tightly and refrigerate for 24 hours. 3. For the jammy onions, heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions, honey, salt and pepper. Cover and cook for 40 minutes, stirring every 5-10 minutes. 4. To assemble pizza, pour olive oil directly onto a 13x16-inch baking sheet. Place cold dough onto the baking sheet and allow it to come to room temperature for about 10-15 minutes. Use your hands to gently spread the dough to the edges of the pan. When the dough starts resisting, let it rest for 10 minutes, then try again. This process can take about 30 minutes. Once the dough reaches the edges of the pan, cover it loosely and allow to rise for 30 more minutes. 5. Preheat oven to 450°F. Spread two-thirds of the ricotta cheese over the surface of the dough, then top with jammy onions. Sprinkle with kosher salt and dollop remaining ricotta on top. Cook for 20-30 minutes, until the edges and underside of the dough are browned and crispy. MAY 2022

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Pear and Parmesan Salad Serves: 6-8

6 2 1

By: Shifra Klein

cups baby arugula firm pears, thinly sliced cup shaved Parmesan cheese Honey Mustard Vinaigrette (recipe follows) cup candied pecans

Arrange arugula, pears and Parmesan in a large, shallow bowl. Toss with vinaigrette and top with pecans.

Honey Mustard Vinaigrette Yield: ¾ cup

Combine ¼ cup grainy mustard, ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup lemon juice, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, 2 tablespoons honey and a pinch of black pepper until smooth.

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SHAVUOS FEAST

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SHAVUOS FEAST

Lemon Pepper Angel Hair Pasta Serves: 4-8

By: Adina Silberman

Although the recipe calls for the juice of one lemon, add as much or as little as you like. 1 ½ 2 2 ½ ¼ ½ 88

pound angel hair pasta cup extra-virgin olive oil Zest and juice of 1 lemon cloves garlic, minced teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper teaspoon red chili flakes cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus

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more as needed cup minced curly parsley

1. Cook pasta al dente according to package directions. Strain, reserving 1 cup pasta water. Set aside. 2. Add oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic, salt, pepper and chili flakes to the pot over medium-low heat. Cook for 3-5 minutes. 3. Add hot pasta into the oil mixture and toss. Add Parmesan and parsley and toss to coat. Add ¼ cup reserved pasta water and toss until sauce fully coats the pasta. If the sauce is too thin, add more Parmesan cheese; if too thick, add a bit more pasta water.

L'CHAIM

BARON EDMOND DE ROTHSCHILD

CELLER DE CAPÇANES PERAJ

HERZOG LINEAGE

R I M A P E R E S I N G L E V I N E YA R D

H A’A B I B S P E C I A L E D I T I O N

SAUVIGNON BLANC,

PINOT NOIR 2020

LAKE COUNTY 2021

The terroir where this Pinot Noir is grown combines a relatively warm climate with mountainous, rich mineral soils. The result is a fuller-bodied wine with strong, ripe red fruit aroma, earthy minerals, roasted meat, herbs and spices. If you have some meat meals over Shavuot, this will be a great wine to pair with anything grilled or braised.

This Sauvignon Blanc contrasts the Rimapere, with less of an emphasis on the citrusy and grassy notes. However, it’s more of an interesting cocktail of stone summer fruits such as white peach and apricot and tropical notes of papaya and guava. The rounder profile makes it a great companion to herb-crusted meat or simple baked fish.

MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND 2021 Another great value wine from the Southern Hemisphere, this aristocratic zesty and tart yet fruity Sauvignon Blanc has mouthwatering acidity and notes of lime, grapefruit, freshly cut grass and green kiwi and pairs well with soft cheese, creamy pasta and even some crunchy schnitzel. I know it’s hard to stop smelling this wine — the refreshing and exotic aroma is apparent even to inexperienced wine drinkers — but it would be a shame to pass on sipping it!

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L'CHAIM

M A T A R B Y P E LT E R R O S É

E S S A A LT I R A , S O U T H A F R I C A

2021

One more wine with down-under influences! This wine is made in Israel, but the winemaker, Tal Pelter, was trained in Adelaide, Australia. Tal’s wines are known for their remarkable freshness and the Matar Rosé is a perfect example. Style-wise, this is a classic Provence style. While the color is very pale, almost as clear as water, this wine is bursting with floral, herbaceous and citrusy notes. It pairs wonderfully well with gravlax, salads and grilled chicken.

There are few kosher wines that hail from South Africa and, in my opinion, most are mediocre. However, ESSA, a new kosher winery, is a gamechanger. With four excellent unique wines, it is a revolution. This wine is a white Bordeaux-style blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Please make sure to aerate the wine at least one hour in advance and don’t serve it too cold. With notes of Meyer lemon, hay, honeycomb and earthy minerals, showcasing formidable complexity and acidity, this is the perfect wine to pair with a cheese board.

CELLAR PICKS BY: GABRIEL GELLER

While Pesach is officially “Chag Ha’aviv,” the holiday of spring, few people take the theme into consideration when choosing their wines. The truth is, spring weather is at its peak on Shavuot. With many of us having the custom of indulging in all sorts of dairy (AND meat!) delights to mark the gift of the Torah to the Jewish people, it is a great time (and excuse!) to pop some great white, rosé and lighter reds that make a better pairing with fish, cheesecake, pasta, etc. Let’s discover together some intriguing wines that will make your Shavuot meals truly special!

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E R I I I I I F N O S I D O W O S I

BY: C H A N A Z . W E I S S

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

T THERE’S NO DOUBT that today’s kosher food world looks dramatically different than it did back in 2010. Much of this transformation has spread outward from New York City, the heart of the kosher dining world. Perhaps one of the very first restaurants to herald the shift from old school, classically heimish mainstays to the chic, artisan-style eateries we see today was Basil Pizza & Wine Bar. Sure, there were kosher pizza shops and steakhouses aplenty, but a trendy, modern restaurant where you could order fresh Parmesan-topped truffle fries along with a glass of wine was unheard of. “Danny [Branover, owner of Basil Hospitality Group] was part of the forefront of the high end kosher eateries that are popping up everywhere now,” says Allen Glenn, Basil’s general manager. “People are pushing the kosher world to new levels every day and a lot of that inspiration comes from what Basil was able to do.” One nowpopular category that Basil helped introduce to the kosher scene was wood-fired pizzas, made with an artisan-style chewy crust and topped with everything from kale and shiitake mushrooms to goat and ricotta cheese. “The pizza is what brings our customers back, no matter how the menu has evolved,” says Allen. It all starts with the dough, made by veteran pizza maker Antonio Portillo, who has been with the restaurant since its inception and has perfected his craft over the years. With an open kitchen design, diners can watch the master at work behind the counter. The dough is then topped with the freshest of ingredients, beginning with only housemade sauces — whether it’s the classic pizza sauce for the Neapolitan pizza or the habanero sauce for the “kale and fire” pie. “Those are the flavors that people remember,” adds Allen. Of course, it wouldn’t be wood-fired pizza without a blazing hot wood-fired oven. The dough cooks quickly on the hot stone while the domed shape of the oven reflects heat back downwards, melting the cheese from above so that all the elements of the pizza are cooked to perfection at exactly the right moment. In mere minutes, the pie is swiped from the oven and devoured by customers, who might know nothing about the craft and yet appreciate the simplicity and perfection of the results. 94

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PANZANELLA SALAD

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MARGHERITA PIZZA

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ROASTED BROCCOLINI

HOUSE-MADE FETTUCINE WITH PESTO, CREAM, EGG YOLK AND PARMESAN

KALE & FIRE PIZZA

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RIVKY PERL, MALKIE HIRSCH AND CHANI FRANKEL

GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER, SAGE, PARMESAN AND CHESTNUTS

CHANIE APFELBAUM'S PIE WITH FRESH MOZZARELLA, ARUGULA, TOMATOES AND A FRIED EGG

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BULGARIAN PIZZA RING

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER OVER CARROT PURÉE

BASIL FRIES

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

GIFT BAG FROM THE EVENING'S SPONSOR, NATURAL & KOSHER

MENDY PELLIN TRYING HIS HAND AT HOMEMADE PIZZA MAY 2022

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

AT THE SECOND-EVER Fleishigs-turnedMilchigs (dairy) event, a group of mostly local Brooklynites gathered to celebrate Basil over a dairy feast, highlighting both old and new menu favorites as well as cheeses from the evening’s sponsor, Natural & Kosher, which were incorporated into the dishes. The night began with Basil’s signature truffle fries, another classic introduced by the restaurant that has since become a fan favorite on kosher menus across the world. Next up was roasted cauliflower over carrot purée and a delightfully fresh panzanella salad with kalamata olives and cubes of Natural & Kosher fresh mozzarella cheese, as well as a Bulgarian pizza ring stuffed with feta cheese, tomatoes and spinach. Although no longer available on Basil’s menu, a velvety kabocha squash soup served inside a halved squash made a special reappearance. “I’m hoping I can convince them to bring it back!” joked Shlomo Klein. Other menu selections included perfectly seared salmon served alongside broccolini and buttery mashed potatoes, egg yolktopped creamy pesto pasta and potato gnocchi with butter, sage, Parmesan and chestnuts. During a brief interlude between courses, Shlomo took a moment to raise a toast to the late Brigitte Mizrahi, founder of Sincerely, Brigitte, the brand behind Natural & Kosher

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“This is the part I was most excited about — until I realized that ‘Build Your Own Pizza’ just meant ‘tell the chef what you want on your pizza'” - Mendy Pellin

cheese. Much like Basil, Natural & Kosher has been an early innovator in the world of kosher dairy, always pushing limits with their high-quality inventive cheese offerings (such as one of their newer products, sheets of fresh mozzarella that can be stuffed and rolled). “Brigitte was a dear friend and we often talked about working together one day. We finally have an opportunity to do that in honor of the holiday of Shavuot,” said Shlomo. “It’s so meaningful for us to be here,” added Natalie Mizrahi-Goodis, Brigitte’s daughter and president of Natural & Kosher. “Shavuot is the one time of year when dairy gets a chance to shine and my mother would have been so touched to be featured at this event.” That sentiment was echoed by Natural & Kosher’s VP of Marketing, Keren Bouganim. Finally, it was time for the highlight of the night: an assortment of Basil’s most popular pizzas, from the classic margherita (fresh mozzarella and basil) and wild mushroom (goat cheese, cremini and shiitake mushrooms and truffle oil) to the signature “kale and fire” pie (charred kale, garlic confit and habanero sauce), as well as an opportunity for guests to customize their own pies. “This is the part I was most excited about — until I realized that ‘Build Your Own Pizza’ just meant ‘tell the chef what you want on your pizza,’” said comedian Mendy Pellin. “So I went behind the counter and asked Antonio if I could make my own and he was more than happy to oblige. That was a dream come true!” “The chefs and guests really brought a spark of creativity to the evening,” said Allen. “We put together a list of the classic pizza toppings — mushrooms, olives, peppers, spinach — along with some that we thought would be more interesting, but then the guests asked why some of the other www.fleishigs.com

MENDY AND SHULAMIS PELLIN

HEAD PIZZA CHEF ANTONIO PORTILLO

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

great ingredients in our kitchen were not on that list.” After poring over the menu, Itta Werdiger (of the former Crown Heights eatery Mason & Mug) put together a custom creation with roasted eggplant and dollops of pesto and ricotta, finished with arugula, walnuts, parsley and Parmesan. “In the next few months, I think you’ll see some versions of the pizzas created tonight end up on the menu, which is just so inspiring,” added Allen. “As a restaurant, it’s easy to become complacent with the menu people know and love; sometimes you need a little kick in the pants from someone on the outside to see things in a new way.” Many of the local Crown Heights residents reminisce about the place that Basil has held in their lives over the past decade. “I still remember the excitement we all had when Basil first opened its doors,” says Rosie Mark. “As a food lover, the fact that an upscale, gourmet eatery was opening right in my neighborhood was huge. Some 12 years later, I now live just a block away from Basil and still consider it a culinary treat.” “Basil was the first chic Crown Heights eatery,” adds Mussie Epstein. “As a stylist, I loved that I had a reason to get dressed up without going too far. Basil quickly became our go-to for Saturday nights, Sunday brunches and countless birthday celebrations.” “We’ve certainly evolved over time,” concluded Allen, “especially when reopening amid the pandemic. It’s been quite a challenge, but we have simplified and streamlined the menu so we can continue offering the dishes our loyal customers are familiar with. At the same time, we’re looking ahead to our future, including the long-awaited opening of Menza by Basil, a new cafe located in Pomona, NY. At the end of the day, what we care most deeply about is the quality of what we offer, which has been our guiding principle for over 10 years.”

CHANA Z. WEISS AND ELISHEVA TAITZ

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support & HR manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

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NATALIE MIZRAHI-GOODIS AND KEREN BOUGANIM FROM NATURAL & KOSHER

SHLOMO KLEIN'S PIZZA WITH GOAT CHEESE, WALNUTS AND ARUGULA

WILD MUSHROOM PIZZA

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CHOLENT REDO

N OUR CONTINUED journey to redefine the concept of cholent beyond the classic meat-and-potatoes stew, we were intrigued by kubaneh — a Yemenite bread that is traditionally baked overnight in a special tin and served for Shabbat lunch with grated tomatoes and overnight eggs. It’s fun and exciting to dig into the hot, steamy bread at the table. The overnight kubaneh brings that low-and-slow quality that we are used to with cholent, but the quicker version (both outlined below) is just as delicious! We knew this was the perfect choice for Shavuos — after a late night of learning, imagine waking up to the smell of freshly baked bread! - SHIFRA

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CHOLENT REDO

Kubaneh Kubaneh, a rich Yemenite bread, is a cross between a brioche and a flatbread. The bread is traditionally started on Friday, when the dough is prepared and shaped; the pieces of dough are stacked in a special lidded tin, almost as you would arrange pieces of dough for monkey bread, and baked overnight. The tin is pulled from the oven on Saturday and served for lunch with grated tomato and z’hug, with everyone at the table ripping the bread apart to get their own treasured piece. Some people go for the crusts and edges, while others want the soft and spongy interior. Classic kubaneh is baked in a covered pan that holds in all the steam. This is essential to create the bread’s pillowy, tender texture and ensures that the bread doesn’t totally dry out as it bakes overnight. The slow bake also allows butter in the dough to deepen and even caramelize, creating a beautiful deep brown crust. This version doesn’t require you to bake the kubaneh overnight, but instead in a moderately warm oven, making the cover unnecessary. As the bread grows and expands, you can see all the layers created during the shaping. If you would like to bake this overnight, you can by doing the following: • Follow the Kubaneh recipe through step 8. • Bake in a 200°F oven overnight. • Bake kubaneh in a dish with a lid, like a Dutch oven. Makes one 9-inch round loaf (860 grams / 1 pound 14 ounces of dough)

290 grams (1¼ cups) cool roomtemperature water 20 grams (2½ tablespoons) fresh yeast or 8 grams (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast 500 grams (4 cups) (sifted, 11.7%) all-purpose flour, plus extra for shaping 60 grams (¼ cup) granulated sugar 20 grams (1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon) fine salt 150 grams (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 2 ripe tomatoes, grated on the large-hole side of a box grater

1. Make the dough: Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Crumble the yeast into the water and use your fingers to rub and dissolve it; if using active dry yeast, whisk the yeast into the water. Add the flour, sugar, and lastly the salt. 2. Mix the dough on low speed to combine the ingredients, stopping the mixer if the dough climbs up the hook or if you need to work in dry ingredients that have settled on the bottom of the bowl. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl as needed. Once the dough comes together, increase the speed to medium-high and continue to knead until the dough cleans the bottom and sides of the bowl, about 3 minutes. 3. Stretch and fold the dough: Lightly dust your work surface with a little flour and use a plastic dough scraper to transfer the dough from the mixing bowl to the floured surface. Use your palms to stretch a corner of the dough away from you in one stroke, and then fold the front portion over and on top of itself. Give the dough a quarter turn and repeat. Do this about 10 times, until the dough is shaped into a nice smooth round. 4. Let the dough rise: Lightly flour a large bowl, set the dough in the bowl, lightly flour the top of the dough, and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Set it aside at room temperature until it has just about doubled in volume, about 30 minutes (depending on the warmth of the room). 5. Divide and shape the dough: Place the butter in a microwave-safe dish and heat it in the microwave just until it is very soft and perhaps 25% melted, 10 seconds or so. Lightly grease a large plate with a little bit of the butter. Lightly flour your work surface and set the dough on top. Divide it into 8 equal pieces. Cup your hand around a piece of dough, and then push and pull it, rolling it against the work surface, to gently shape it into a ball. Set the ball on the buttered plate and repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Cover the plate with plastic wrap and set it aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. 6. Stretch the dough: Use about 2 tablespoons of the softened butter to generously grease a 9-inch springform pan (or use a smaller springform pan or a kubaneh pan). Take about a tablespoon of the

butter and use it to grease a clean, nonfloured work surface. Take a ball of dough from the plate, smear another tablespoon of butter on top of it, and gently press and spread it out to form a paper-thin 12- to 13-inch square. Use more butter as needed — you want to use a lot! The butter helps spread the dough very thin without tearing (but don’t worry if it tears). 7. Shape the dough: Fold the left side of the dough over the center, then the right side over the left to create a simple fold. Starting at the bottom of the strip, roll the dough into a tight cylinder. Slice the cylinder in half crosswise, and then place the halves in the prepared springform pan, with the cut side facing up. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough (reserve 1 tablespoon of butter to use in step 10), arranging the pieces in a circle in the pan with a few pieces in the center. If you’re using a smaller springform or a kubaneh pan, stack the dough (as you would for monkey bread). If you are using a springform pan, wrap the bottom of the pan in a large sheet of aluminum foil just in case any butter drips out (this will prevent the butter from burning and smoking up the oven). If you are using a kubaneh pan, you can skip this step. 8. Let the kubaneh proof: Cover the pan with plastic wrap and set it aside in a warm, draft-free place until a finger gently pressed into the dough leaves a depression that quickly fills in by three-quarters, about 40 minutes (depending on how warm the room is). 9. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 10. Bake the kubaneh: Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, brush it over the top of the dough, and place the pan in the oven. After 15 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 325°F and bake until the top is deeply golden, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and set it aside to cool for at least 20 minutes before turning the bread out of the pan. 11. To serve, invert the bread onto a platter so the pretty side faces up. Let people rip the kubaneh apart, separating the bread into small rolls. Serve the grated tomato on the side. MAY 2022

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BABYMOON IN BAHAMAS BY: MENAHEM & GILA RAPOPORT

FEATURE PAGE

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TRAVEL

BACK IN EARLY January, we were debating where to go for our babymoon. For those unfamiliar with the term, a babymoon is a vacation that soon-to-be parents take to relax before the big day. I should be embarrassed to admit how many hours we spent planning and researching where to go. We were a bit picky and wanted to go somewhere new that would offer luxury, a bit of adventure and most importantly some unique kosher food experiences, all within the Eastern time zone. That’s when it happened

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— we heard juicy news about the Caribbean's first ever kosher restaurant located within the Grand Hyatt Baha Mar. Now, if you would have told us that we’d be spending our final pre-baby vacation in the Bahamas, we would have laughed. Besides sitting on a pool chair, what is a pregnant woman supposed to do on an island for an entire week? Well, we were going to take our chances and wing it, so we booked a flight and set off a few hours east to land on one of the 700 islands of the Bahamas, specifically Nassau.

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TRAVEL

WHERE TO STAY

WHAT TO DO

BAHA MAR

CASINO

Located just a few miles from Bahamas’ Lynden Pindling International Airport, Baha Mar was completed only a few years ago. Between the architecture, artwork and the sheer vastness of amenities, we were mesmerized. Keep in mind that the resort actually includes three separate hotels — Grand Hyatt (where we stayed), SLS and Rosewood. Though there are some exclusive amenities, guests at each of these hotels have access to the pools, beach, water park, golf, bars and restaurants on premises. Baha Mar has many quaint shops on site, featuring everything from souvenirs, jewelry and homemade goods to art and culture installations. At night, you can watch the musical water fountain show, located right behind Cinko in the Grand Hyatt, which occurs every 20 minutes. With a multitude of activities, a professional golf course (including a mini golf course), luxurious spa and casino, you truly don’t have to leave the resort!

Located in the lobby of the Grand Hyatt, Baha Mar is famously known for having the largest casino in the Caribbean, so of course we decided to press our luck one evening! With over 1,000 slot machines and 18 table games, nightlife in the Grand Hyatt lobby is hopping. Right beside the casino is a lounge and bar with a live jazz band for a more relaxed nighttime activity. WATER ACTIVITIES

One of the perks of staying at the resort is unlimited access to Baha Bay water park, located on 15 acres. It has a lazy river, wave pool, several water slides, a few childfriendly sections and more. We found ourselves spending more time there than we’d like to admit, but how could you blame us when there is a massive bucket that drops gallons of water on you?! To top it all off, the park has a Flow Rider wave machine,

where we spent hours upon hours for multiple days. This was probably the best part of the trip, hands down. When not at the water park, relax at the beach or one of the resort’s many pools (one of which has a swim-up aquarium). WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

Throughout the day, Baha Mar offers the opportunity for guests to interact with various wildlife creatures. The Wildlife Sanctuary offers paid guided tours for guests to observe and learn about the natural behaviors of our marine wildlife from animal professionals. On these tours, guests can also feed and interact with nurse sharks, stingrays, green sea turtles and Caribbean fish. Baha Mar also has an on-site flamingo habitat called Flamingo Cay, where you can observe and photograph flamingos. For a fee, you can also interact with the flamingos at select hours. On some dates, Baha Mar offers yoga classes at Flamingo Cay, a unique experience for even the most adept yogi. MAY 2022

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EXCURSIONS

Everyone knows that when you’re vacationing in the Caribbean, you’re going for the beaches and the water, but you haven’t experienced the Bahamas if you don’t go on a dolphin or turtle excursion. Interestingly enough, the Bahamas is also known for its pig excursions, which we didn’t have the opportunity to do, but if you’re looking for something unique, that should definitely be a bucket list item. We went on an excursion to the Blue Lagoon Islands, which is a small island off the coast of Nassau that provides several tour options, including dolphin experiences. They also have a Segway tour around the island’s perimeter that takes you through the island’s “safari” and beaches. Speak with your hotel’s concierge to arrange excursions that meet your needs. Baha Mar also has kayaks on site, as well as snorkels, free of charge. You can also typically find people down by the beach offering excursion or jet ski rental opportunities.

WHAT TO EAT The Chabad Shluchim in Nassau, Bahamas, Rabbi Shalom and Sheera Bluming, moved to the Bahamas in 2017 after the opening of Baha Mar, anticipating an influx of Jewish travelers. Rabbi Shalom’s passion has led the community to grow and prosper, with the opening of a shul, a daily minyan, a delicious Shabbat kiddush, holiday curriculums and most famously, with the help of his wife Sheera and and some community members, the launch of the first kosher restaurant in a nationally recognized hotel. Without doing much research, we accidentally (although fortunately for our kosher adventure) booked our trip during the middle of “Yeshiva week,” when many Yeshivas and day schools have their mid-winter vacation. Baha Mar and Chabad of the Bahamas, under the auspices of Rabbi Sholom and Sheera Bluming, took over an existing outdoor restaurant and hosted a pop-up to facilitate kosher meal options for breakfast, lunch and dinner throughout the entire two week period. Since we came towards the end of the Yeshiva week program, we decided the only viable solution was to order everything on the menu! The food was exquisite and literally melted in our mouths. We also discovered that there were a few shops within the Baha Mar resort grounds that had

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If I were to summarize our experience in the Bahamas in two words it would be blissful paradise.

pre-packaged sandwiches and salads from Cinko for Yeshiva week. Word is that Chabad will do more of these pop ups in the future. Now for the more permanent restaurant that recently opened: Cinko Asian Latino Grill, located on the premises of Grand Hyatt Baha Mar. It’s a fusion between Peruvian and Chinese cuisines, known within the Peruvian food scene as “chifa.” Cinko is a high-end meat restaurant that offers a luxurious food experience at very reasonable prices (considering the location and quality of the hotel). It’s important to note that Cinko’s prices are in line with all the other (non-kosher) restaurants on premises, for appeal and accessibility to all resort guests. After dining at Cinko almost every night for a week, we were able to try a good portion of the menu. We particularly enjoyed their sushi and fish dishes and the burger was excellent! Each dish was plated with aesthetics as a focal point and they did not miss any marks. We dedicated one night to eating as many items as we could from the fish menu. We started with sushi — our top two choices were Tropical Crunch and Cinko Futomaki. Both were refreshing and delicious. After finishing our appetizers, we each had a seafood entrée, but what stood out to us both immediately was the Red Snapper Pescado — a perfectly cooked and seasoned dish. For our second evening at Cinko, we decided to order from the meat menu. We asked our waiter for recommendations, but since we just couldn't decide, we ordered practically everything. Let’s just say we really were hoping to win a game at the casino tables! The dishes that really stood out to us were the Cinko Beef Burger and something we’ve never tried before called Chicken Katsu. On an island over 180 miles away from any Jewish community, you’d be happy to just eat a burger, but Cinko doesn’t leave you hanging. The chefs delivered a mouth-watering and flavor-packed burger. The Chicken Katsu was no different — what seemed like traditional schnitzel was transformed with a Peruvian twist. This dish was paired with some homemade sauces that literally left us asking for more. As any new restaurant, there were some expected mishaps, but the overall experience was absolutely amazing. We’ve had many kosher dining experiences, but the staff and team at Cinko was

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EDITOR’S NOTES:

• Aside from Starbucks for coffee, there are packaged snacks and (non chalav yisrael) ice cream bearing kosher symbols available for purchase at a few different locations within Baha Mar. • Should you choose to visit a grocery store, Solomon’s Fresh Market and Quality Supermarket are only a few minutes drive from Baha Mar. I recommend bringing whatever you can from home, as prices in the Bahamas are sky high. Keep in mind that VAT (value-added tax) is also added to all purchases made in the Bahamas. Baha Mar has small fridges available for rent for a small fee if you decide to bring food from home. • Children under 5 years old dine for free at Baha Mar restaurants, which is exciting for those traveling with children! At Cinko, the children’s menu includes pasta marinara, hot dogs, chicken nuggets and even a small cucumber sushi roll. The same was available at the Yeshiva week pop-up too. • For transportation, rideshare apps (such as Uber and Lyft) are not available in the Bahamas. If you are not planning on doing much traveling once at the resort, consider using a reputable car service company for airport transfers (such as Sandra’s Transportation [sandrastransportationbahamas.com], which offers grocery store stops as well). Many excursions offer transportation, otherwise you can rent a car or arrange for taxis through your hotel’s concierge.

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unparalleled. It wasn’t uncommon to see both the chefs and managers walking around tables to greet their patrons and explain the story behind the restaurant, their ambitions and the journey of how the first-ever kosher restaurant in a hotel came to be. On several occasions, we had the luxury of speaking with Rabbi Shalom, who also serves as the mashgiach of Cinko. Cinko was truly an experience in paradise that we never thought imaginable. Bahamas is changing the narrative of what a kosher restaurant can be and we are all for it. For Shabbos, Baha Mar and Cinko provided a fully kosher dining experience for Friday evening and a takeout option for Shabbos lunch. On Friday night we arrived with several other guests and had a minyan in the outdoor section for Mincha and Kabbalat Shabbat, which was a great way to meet other guests. The tables were set with a challah for each plate, red wine for Kiddush and some dips. We were served a 3-course meal, which consisted of fish, salad, soup, short ribs with rice and a dessert. What we found most interesting was the regular restaurant guests enjoying a fine dining (kosher!) experience. For Shabbos lunch, the takeout boxes contain challah, dips, sushi, a salad, desert and wine. Although a great option, we opted to visit the local Chabad Shul and spend the day with the locals. It was a 15-20 minute walk from the resort, but if you walk through the park and exit through the side the walk is much shorter. We learned about this shortcut on the way back and were so happy we did! If I were to summarize our experience in the Bahamas in two words it would be blissful paradise. If you’re looking for a vacation with chill vibes, whether you're celebrating a honeymoon,

babymoon, anniversary or simply a weekend getaway with your loved ones, Bahamas has always been a perfect option. But now, with the first ever kosher restaurant within a resort (outside of Israel), there’s really no other choice! Baha Mar is packed with things to do, from nature tours and wildlife encounters to a water park, from tourist excursions across the multitude of Islands to shopping sprees on premise. In short, there is never a dull day when you’re staying in paradise in the Bahamas. ATLANTIS

Atlantis, famously known as the Lost City of the Bermuda Triangle, is a myth that every adventurer fantasizes about discovering. Located about 12 miles from the airport, Atlantis offers six different hotel options packed with several activities — there is something for everyone. Aquaventure, Atlantis Paradise Island's water park, is a one-of-a-kind 141-acre waterscape consisting of multiple Atlantean-themed towers, thrilling high-speed water slides, a mile-long river ride with rolling rapids and wave surges, 20 swimming areas, a spectacular kids water-play fort and 11 pools. Given its proximity to the marina, Atlantis offers multiple marine adventures where guests can interact with marine wildlife up-close and personal experiences with stingrays, sea turtles and more with snorkeling and scuba diving options. Atlantis offers kosher options for groups; advance notice and bookings are necessary.

Gila and Menahem Rapoport are two kosher foodies who travel and work on the go. Their food and travel blog, kosherfoodworld.com, was started as a passion project to showcase kosher food and travel from around the world. They currently reside in Jacksonville, Florida. Follow their journey on TikTok and Instagram @kosherfoodworld. www.fleishigs.com

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No-Bake Cheesecake Serves: 10

By: Shlomo Klein

Hopefully by now you know that I am a selfproclaimed cheesecake expert and love nothing more than a classic cheesecake, like the one featured in last year’s Shavuos issue by Layla Zirkind (recipe available on the app). In an effort to not upstage the classic and provide something different, I thought a no-bake version was perfect. No-bake cheesecake is lighter in flavor and fluffier in texture. Additionally, it can be made in one bowl and doesn’t require oven time, making it much easier to execute than traditional cheesecake. To serve, keep it classic and cut into squares or elevate it by layering with toppings of choice in dessert glasses. NOTES: • A store bought graham cracker crust works perfectly if you don’t want to make your own. • This cheesecake is truly a blank canvas; see below for delicious variations. FO R T H E C RU ST:

1½ ½ ⅓ 1

cups graham cracker crumbs (from about 1 sleeve) cup butter, melted cup sugar teaspoon kosher salt

FO R T H E C H E E S ECA K E :

2 ⅓ 3 1 2 1

cups heavy cream, chilled cup sugar (8-ounce) containers whipped cream cheese, at room temperature cup confectioners’ sugar teaspoons pure vanilla extract teaspoon lemon juice

1. For the crust, mix graham cracker crumbs, butter, sugar and salt until combined. Press mixture firmly into the bottom of a 9x13-inch pan. Set aside. 2. For the cheesecake, using a hand mixer or stand mixer, beat heavy cream on mediumhigh speed until stiff peaks form. Slowly add sugar and beat until fully incorporated. Transfer whipped cream to a second bowl. 3. Add cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, vanilla extract and lemon juice to the same mixing bowl and beat on medium speed for 1 minute, until softened. 4. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the whipped cream, making sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl completely to incorporate. Pour filling into the prepared crust and smooth with an offset spatula. Cover and chill for 4 hours or overnight. 118

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variations

SOMETHING SWEET

Peanut Butter Cheesecake Mix ½ cup peanut butter into cheesecake batter. If you are making your own crust, swap out ½ cup graham cracker crumbs for ½ cup peanut butter cookie crumbs. Top pie with chocolate ganache (recipe follows) and chopped roasted, salted peanuts.

White Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake Swirl 1 cup raspberry jam into cheesecake batter. Top with white chocolate ganache (recipe follows).

Chocolate Ganache Heat 1 cup whole milk or heavy cream over medium-low heat until simmering. Remove from heat and add 1½ cups chopped chocolate (dark, milk or white) and 1 tablespoon corn syrup (optional, for added shine and smoothness). Let sit for 2 minutes, then stir until completely smooth and melted.

Berry Dessert Cups Add crumbled graham cracker crust to dessert glasses (or granola or crushed cookies). Top with cheesecake mixture, assorted berries and whipped cream. www.fleishigs.com

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y: YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

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IF THERE WAS ever a winery full of wines that complement fleishigs food, it's Shiloh. If you have not heard of Shiloh Winery and its winemaker Amichai Lourie (the face and powerhouse), I am not sure if you are one of the tribe at all! This winery is a unique expression of the trials and tribulations of the Jewish people in ancient Israel and a testament to the destiny of this parcel of land to produce fine wines both in modern and ancient times. Shiloh Winery was founded by Dr. Mayer Chomer of Mexico City in the small village of Shiloh in 2005. Its logo, an ox, represents the area of land that was designated and distributed by G-d to the tribe of Joseph, whose symbol was an ox. The Torah is quoted as saying about the tribe of Joseph, "In majesty, he is like a firstborn bull, his horns are the horns of a wild ox." Dr. Chomer loves Israel as much as he loves fine wines. He has traveled the world and, by chance, met Amichai Lourie on one of his trips to Israel. Amichai has always been passionate about winemaking and it was evident to Dr. Chomer that Amichai was

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a very talented winemaking hobbyist. Dr. Chomer saw an opportunity, grabbed the ox by the horns and offered Amichai the winemaker position at his winery. Amichai Lourie and his wife Yael live in Ma'aleh Levona, near the Ariel region of Israel. Amichai was born in Boston and made Aliyah to Israel, where he settled in Jerusalem with his family at four years old. He draws his love of food and wine from his parents and upbringing; his father heavily influenced his interests and talents as a professional chef and chazan

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(cantor). Amichai has early memories of drinking Emerald Riesling with his mother, who was an excellent and creative domestic cook. This upbringing was the foundation of Amichai's journey toward becoming a great cook and an internationally-recognized, successful winemaker in Israel. He has a meaningful yet straightforward philosophy when it comes to making wine. If it is worth doing, it is worth doing well. Amichai and Yael's home is one of delicious food and hospitality. Yael is in charge of growing the

vegetable garden and Amichai is the resident chef and baker. He even bakes his own matzah for Pesach and prepares delicious succulent meats for his guests to enjoy with a few bottles of Shiloh wine. Amichai did not start as a professional winemaker. In fact, he was a contractor in his previous career and draws from that experience even in winemaking. Amichai and Yael were very invested in doing things correctly while still making wine as a hobby for family and friends. With this in mind, they decided to take a practical winemaking course with the Soreq Winery School of Winemaking in the early 2000s. A broken wrist that took too long to heal, a chance meeting with Dr. Chomer at a wine tasting hosted by Amichai and an increasing passion and fascination with wine led to a lifealtering career change. Amichai Lourie, a charismatic personality, is an inventive, meticulous, instinctive winemaker with a proven record of success. He is a handson perfectionist and has gathered a team equally devoted to his pursuit of excellence. This winery had one mission from its inception — to make the best kosher wine in the world, sparing no expense. Shiloh is extremely popular and produces over 250,000 bottles of wine yearly, with over half exported and enjoyed outside of Israel. The winery has various labels such as Privilege, Shor, Legend, Secret Reserve and the flagship wines — Mosaic and Mosaic Exclusive Edition. The vineyards are at high elevation, from 650-900 meters (1,950-2,700 feet) above sea level. The vineyards are grown on a deep bedrock of limestone and a mixture of shallow Terra Rossa clay. The land is very stony, making planting vineyards a major undertaking. The vineyard sites are bathed in the Israeli sun, but with maritime cooling winds from the Mediterranean Sea in the west. The area is not humid like other parts of Israel and the high elevation and cold nights create a longer growing season. It is not unusual to have snow in the vineyards during the winter months. www.fleishigs.com

Shiloh Winery’s vineyards come under the Judean Hills appellation. The region is proving to be one of Israel's finest wine-growing areas. Israel is wellknown worldwide for its creative and technologically advanced agriculture, which come together in the winery's vineyards. The winemaker has close contact with the growers and insists on regularly walking the vineyards to keep in touch. No work in the vineyards takes place without the authorization of the winemaker, who also decides exactly how to prune, when to harvest and all activities in between. The ancient city of Shiloh is situated on a mountain ridge between Judea and Samaria. The Torah postulates that the region was always destined to produce the best and most delicious wines from grapes grown in local vineyards. The Mishkan, or Tabernacle, stood in Shiloh, leading to many Jews settling there to do their worship and service. Wine was required for all the services in the Mishkan and every Jewish holiday and celebration of Jewish life. The grape is considered one of the seven species of fruits the Land of Israel was blessed with. That is why wine from Israel has such special status and place in our lives. Shiloh wines have and continue to

win medals, trophies, wine competitions and the highest scores from wine critics and magazines like Decanter, Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator year after year. Shiloh wines won the Eshkol Hazahav (Golden Cluster) award in 2011, 2016 and 2020. Shiloh is not only winning awards, but palates too. It is arguably one of the most popular kosher Israeli wineries out there today. Everyone who drinks kosher wine has heard of Amichai Lourie and Shiloh’s incredible track record. The Secret Cabernet Sauvignon alone has won the first place medal on no less than five occasions in the last ten years. Any winery in the world would be content with this extraordinary record of third-party recognition. These achievements illustrate that Shiloh Winery is considered one of the finest and most consistent wineries in Israel. One secret to Shiloh's success, besides for its excellent winemaker, is its connection to its Jewish roots. The laws of kashrut are adhered to at the highest level without compromising on the quality of the wine. There is a unique label of wines made in the 6th year before the shmita year called Secret Reserve Heroes Edition — three singlevineyard wines dedicated to different

vineyards. The Torah promises an extra bountiful year right before shmita is observed in the seventh year, when the land lies fallow and unattended to. These winegrowers who meticulously observe shmita are the heroes of this particular label since their dedication to the words of the Torah and halacha is absolute. As a kosher Israeli winery, Shiloh strictly observes terumot and maaserot annually, giving tithes to the priests, religious leaders, teachers and the poor and needy. Furthermore, every third and sixth year, Shiloh donates unlabeled bottles to a charity organization that donates wine to those who cannot afford it. Shiloh is a winery with a Jewish heart and soul, which in no way contradicts the effort to make high-quality wines. I will certainly drink to that! L'chaim!

Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com. MAY 2022

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IN A COUNTRY that is almost onethird vegetarian, India has a long and rich history of diverse vegetarian offerings. Without meat, there are several main proteins that are utilized to support a well-rounded diet. One of the most popular protein-rich ingredients is paneer, a fresh Indian cheese. Paneer can be purchased or easily made at home since it requires no culturing or aging. A milky cheese, the only ingredients in paneer are whole milk and acid (generally either vinegar or lemon juice). Once set and firm, the cheese can be cubed and added to curries and stews or crumbled for use as a filling in samosas, parathas and dosas.

MUCH LIKE A firm tofu, the mild cheese is a blank canvas that can take on any flavor from matar paneer — the beloved tomatobased pea studded curry — to palak paneer — a rich spinach stew. Similar to haloumi, a Middle Eastern cheese, a firm paneer can be browned or grilled without melting or disintegrating. Softer, crumbly paneers are more similar to ricotta salata or feta, except without the salty flavor. The texture largely depends on how long the cheese is drained and weighted to press out moisture, so start several hours (or a day) ahead of use for best results.

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Paneer 1. Bring ½ gallon (8 cups) whole milk to a scalding point over medium heat. You should see wisps of steam. 2. Add 1½-2 tablespoons white vinegar (or lemon juice) to the milk and stir until curds start to separate and rise to the top. Remove from heat. 3. Line a sieve or colander with a large piece of muslin or cheesecloth (double if not fine gauge) and set it over a large bowl or pot. Pour curdled mixture slowly through the cheesecloth to separate the curds. 4. Gather the cheesecloth in your hand, tie ends in a knot and squeeze out the excess liquid (alternatively, hang to drain over the sink faucet for 10 minutes). 5. Place the cheesecloth in a shallow bowl and weigh down with a heavy plate. Add a few cans (or another pot) on top to add weight to press out moisture. Leave as is for at least 2-3 hours in the fridge to set.

Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor and food writer based in Woodmere, NY. She teaches classes throughout the country and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. She is excited to be writing her first cookbook, which will be released next year. Follow her on Instagram @naomirosscooks or visit her website koshercookingconcepts.com MAY 2022

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R E C I P E CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 18

Syrian Twisted String Cheese

39 Flax Egg 40 Soft-Boiled Eggs FF M Q 64 Spiced Roasted Chickpeas M 64 Herbed Yogurt M Q 86 Honey Mustard Vinaigrette M Q 127 Paneer M

DOUGH

I N D E X

47 Radish Salad M Q

85 Potato Parmesan Tart

60 Palak Paneer

88 Lemon Pepper Angel Hair Pasta FF Q

63 Butter Rice with Cumin Crunch 64 Tomato Salad with Spiced Roasted Chickpeas and Herbed Yogurt 69 Za’atar Feta Salad FF Q 71

Roasted Sweet Potatoes FF M

75 Roasted Potatoes with Soft-Boiled Eggs and Smoked Salmon FF 78 Arugula Beet Salad M Q 86 Pear and Parmesan Salad M

Sambousak FF

Cheddar-Olive Bites

FISH

Cheddar-Olive Twists

63 Seared Halibut with Curry Butter M Q

Spanach Jiben

Spinach Bourekas FF Q

85 Lemony Whole Roasted Bronzino FF M Q

Mini Pizzas FF M Q

22 Potato Bourekas FF Q 22 Mediterranean Bourekas Q 22 Vegan Lachmagine 54 Pretzel Bites with Beer Cheese Dip FF 54 Parmesan Garlic Butter Rolls FF 105 Kubaneh

SALADS & SIDES 47 Creamy Sweet Potatoes FF M

SWEET TREATS 48 Sour Cream Apple Pie 75 Naleśniki (Polish Rolled Crêpes) FF M 118 No-Bake Cheesecake FF 118 Peanut Butter Cheesecake FF 118 White Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake 118 Chocolate Ganache M Q 118 Berry Dessert Cups 130 Melktaart

Za’atar Seared Tuna M Q

MAINS 47 Sour Cream Cacio e Pepe 71

Breakfast Board Q

72 Roasted Sweet Potato Quiche FF 76 Polish Farmer Cheese Dumplings FF M 76 Sheet Pan Dumplings FF

KEY:

85 Spinach, Tomato and Ricotta Tart

FF Family-Friendly

85 Grandma Pizza with Jammy Onions and

M Minimal Ingredients

Ricotta FF

Q Quick

LAST BITE

Melktaart Yield: 2 pies

By: Shifra and Shlomo Klein

Melktaart (also known as milk tart) is a traditional South African milk custard pie that consists of a buttery shortbread-style crust and a deliciously creamy custard center (similar to crème brûlée). This delicacy can be found at every bakery and supermarket in South Africa. We have been making this version, which is adapted from various recipes, for years — it’s always a hit. FO R T H E C RU ST:

2 ½ ½ 1 ½

cups all-purpose flour cup (1 stick) butter cup sugar egg teaspoon pure vanilla extract Pinch of kosher salt

FO R T H E C U STA R D:

5 3 ¾ 1 3 3

cups whole milk eggs cups sugar teaspoon pure vanilla extract tablespoons cornstarch tablespoons all-purpose flour Cinnamon, for dusting (optional)

1. For the crust, add all ingredients to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the S-blade attachment and process until just incorporated. 2. Preheat oven to 375°F. Divide dough into 2 equal portions and press into 2 (9-inch) pie dishes. Bake for 15 minutes. Let cool. 3. For the custard, heat milk in a saucepan over medium-high heat until just boiling. 4. In a bowl, whisk eggs, sugar and vanilla until smooth. Slowly add cornstarch and flour, whisking continuously to prevent clumps. Add one cup of hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking continuously, to temper the eggs. Pour mixture into the saucepan and whisk for 10-15 minutes on low heat, until thickened. 5. Pour mixture into baked pie crusts. Dust the surface with cinnamon. Refrigerate until completely cooled.

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