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BUTCHER'S CUT
BABY CHICKEN 12
EDITOR’S LETTER
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ESSENTIALS Mustards
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CULINARY SCHOOL Chef Ari White’s can smoker
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COOKBOOK Green Fire: Extraordinary Ways to Grill Fruits and
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SEASONAL
GRILLED PINEAPPLE AND SALADS FOR THE SEASON
Vegetables 72
L’CHAIM Summer wines
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BACK POCKET Corn
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Greece in Israel
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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK The mysteries behind aerating wine
104 RECIPE INDEX 106 LAST BITE Hot dog taquitos
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SOMETHING SWEET
CHILLED DESSERTS
EDITOR'S LETTER
THE GRILLING ISSUE
Grills just wanna have fun. IN BET WEEN WORKING on the Rosh Hashana and Sukkot issues (and a potential move of Fleishigs headquarters), I will be traveling upstate to Monticello, NY to spend weekends at Himmels, where my parents have a bungalow. I have been spending summers there since I was twelve years old and there is nothing like it. As a kid growing up in an apartment in Brooklyn, city life was a stark contrast to the space and freedom that country life offered. As an adult, watching my kids have the same experience makes the schlep worth it. Fridays are spent swimming, chilling, visiting flea markets and getting a pie of pizza at the iconic Fialkoff's. A visit to Walmart always seems to encourage the shopaholic inside each of us. We always leave with a $150 bill and bags full of random items we didn’t know we needed. If Shlomo plans to fish, a container of triple-wrapped worms that we secretly store in the fridge (unbeknownst to the rest of our family) is part of the haul too. Shabbos is Shabbos — an ultimate day of rest and relaxation. After Shabbos we typically wait on line at the iconic Café Chocolat for waffles. And Sunday is all about the grill. I absolutely love grilling and have been manning the grill for years now. The art of grilling many items at once is all about managing the
heat on different sides of the grill and knowing when to cook what. The ultimate success is timing it to have everything for the meal ready at once. This summer’s Butcher’s Cut column is all about my personal favorite protein to grill — boneless, skinless chicken thighs. They are so easy to grill, take on any flavor and are almost impossible to mess up. We share three marinades to take you through the season, as well as many ways to enjoy the marinades beyond the grill. My personal favorite is using my teriyaki marinade to make chicken karaage, a Japanese version of schnitzel that is well worth the effort. The herb marinade mixed with lemons and shallots and roasted in the oven is the perfect dinner for summer and beyond. For this month's Culinary School feature, Ari White (of Wandering Que fame) teaches us how to create a smoker on any grill using a simple can. It is brilliant, easy and fun. Beyond all of these tips and recipes, there is loads more grilling inspiration, from delicious skewers to a whole pineapple and more! Challenge yourself this summer to get out of the kitchen and get behind the grill! Bitayavon, Shifra
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Claudia Hopkins CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com
www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. One thing I don't know why. It doesn't even matter how hard you try. Keep that in mind, I designed this issue to explain in due time. As it was. You know it's not the same as it was. As it was, as it was. Is anyone still paying any attention to this 'column' anymore? If you could spare a minute I’ma need a sentimental man or woman to pump me up. (@naftolimann on insta). Just need a wave or something. This issue was designed to the sounds of Arkadi Duchin, Cat Stevens, Danny Bassan and Harry Styles. Visual Stimuli: The Umbrella Academy Season 3, The Boys Season 3. Jack Levinson says I should watch Letterkenny but i'm not sure, anyone have an opinion on that? Book(s): Six of Crows, Crooked Kingdom.
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PUT SOME MUSTARD ON IT! BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ
T
HERE IS NO condiment quite as classic or all-American as mustard. Pungent, flavorful and available in so many varieties, mustard — whether yellow, deli, Dijon, spicy brown or honey — goes with everything from hot dogs and hamburgers to grilled chicken and steak. Most mustards have similar ingredients, but they can vary tremendously in taste and heat level depending on the type of mustard seeds used and the liquid used to moisten and bind it. The uses are endless — mix it with a little mayonnaise for the perfect dip for crudité or steamed artichokes or use it in salad dressing. Pitmasters laud mustard’s benefits and often lather it on brisket before smoking. In my house, you will find at least three varieties in my fridge at all times. In my opinion, mustard can do no wrong and there is nothing more delicious or versatile. Beyond classic yellow mustard, here are some of the top picks from the Fleishigs test kitchen.
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COLMAN’S MUSTARD The OG that hails from England, Colman’s has been making mustard (and only mustard!) since 1814. It’s a yellow mustard with a slightly hot kick. Kosher certified by KLBD
FRENCH’S STONE GROUND ROASTED GARLIC MUSTARD The combination of savory roasted garlic and stone ground mustard can’t be beat. Use it to elevate a vinaigrette or marinade. Certified kosher by OU
BORNIER WHOLE GRAIN DIJON MUSTARD With a heartier texture than its smoother counterpart, this version is made in the Dijon region of France and only contains a few simple ingredients. Certified kosher by Rabbi Schlesinger Strasbourg, France
MISTER MUSTARD SWEET HOT A sweet and savory mustard blend that has an overall sweetness with a hint of heat.
Dijon mustard since 1777 with the original recipe from France. Made with a mixture of quality mustard seeds, white wine and spices, this mustard is creamy in texture and refined in flavor. Certified kosher by OU
ZAKUSON GOURMET MUSTARD For spicy lovers, this Russian-style hot mustard can be found in Russian markets or on Amazon. Certified kosher by OU and COR
GOLD’S TRADITIONAL DELICATESSEN-STYLE MUSTARD No deli sandwich would be complete without a slather of the traditional deli-style stuff, which is rich and sharp. Certified kosher by OU
BRAD’S ORGANIC DIJON MUSTARD Made with only a few organic ingredients, this Dijon, which is made with vinegar instead of white wine, is sharp and creamy. Certified kosher by OU
Certified kosher by OU
HONEYCUP MUSTARD
GREY POUPON DIJON MUSTARD
In business since 1978, the Honeycup recipe remains unchanged — uniquely sweet, thick and tangy.
Another classic brand, Grey Poupon has been crafting
Certified kosher by OK
THERE’S MORE! Once we shot this unique collection, we stumbled upon other unique mustard varieites. Trader Joe’s Dill Pickle Mustard adds a briny pickle flavor that truly elevates a hot dog. Want some mustard with your steak? Try Sabatino Tartufi Truffled Mustard. Add a pop of unexpected flavor to a burger with Plochman's Bourbon Mustard or Gold's Mustard with Horseradish.
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CHICKEN BREAST FILLETS will always reign as the most popular and convenient weeknight meal choice, but boneless dark meat chicken, cut from thighs, deserves your serious consideration. The higher fat and collagen content in the dark meat (a result of those muscles being used more during the animal’s life) mean that dark meat chicken is much more flavorful than chicken breasts and less likely to become dry when overcooked. Like many types of meat in the kosher world, boneless chicken thighs have a number of different names. Skinless fillets can be called “baby chicken” or “pargiyot.” Skin-on fillets are sometimes called “capons,” which either refers to the individual thighs or when those thighs are tied together to form a larger roast. Technically, “capon” is the name for a castrated rooster, but true capons are very rarely available commercially these days. Grow & Behold produces a skin-on chicken thigh fillet that
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can be rolled and roasted whole for a very elegant, easy-to-eat chicken dinner. Typically, however, you’ll find that boneless dark meat chicken is of very irregular shape. This is because the muscles surround the bones, so they need to be sliced for deboning. Use this to your advantage — when you roast boneless chicken thighs whole, the variation in size and shape will give you lots of crispy edges that are absolutely delicious when stuffed in pita with Israeli salad for shawarma. You can also take the butchering a step further and cut the pieces into 1-2” cubes for stir-frying or threading onto skewers for kabobs. We’ve also seen a lot of recipes for electric pressure cookers using boneless skinless dark chicken. Since the higher fat and collagen content in the muscles mean that it is less prone to overcooking, it can handle the high heat. When cooked for just a few minutes, the meat becomes tender and can be “pulled” like brisket.
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BUTCHER'S CUT
Naftali Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertlybutchered premium quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces pastureraised beef, veal, lamb and poultry, with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com. JULY 2022
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MARINADES OF THE SEASON CHEAPER AND EASIER to cook than beef, boneless, skinless chicken thighs (otherwise known as pargiyot) are the ideal cut for grilling season. All you need is spice rub, a drizzle of oil and a squeeze of lemon and you have delicious grilled chicken that is hard to mess up.
To elevate the season, I developed three diverse, delicious marinades that work with many proteins ( just adjust cook times as needed per the instructions below) — I am all about versatile, multi-purpose recipes.
4 WAYS TO COOK MARINATED CHICKEN:
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GRILLED CHICKEN
Marinate boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Heat grill to 400-425°F. Grill chicken for 6 minutes on one side, then flip and grill for another 4-5 minutes on the other side. (BONUS: Follow the same instructions for London broil, adjusting grill time to 8 minutes per side for a 1”-thick London broil.)
2 3
See page 29 for Teriyaki Grilled Chicken and page 31 for Chicken Karaage
ROASTED CHICKEN
Marinate boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Preheat oven to 425°F. Arrange chicken on a baking sheet with aromatics such as onions, garlic or lemons. Roast, uncovered, for 25 minutes.
FRIED CHICKEN
Marinate boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Dust chicken with potato starch or allpurpose flour. Prepare a wire cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Heat oil in a pot or Dutch oven over medium heat (325°F). Working in batches, fry chicken for 4 minutes, until crispy, but still pale. Transfer to a prepared cooling rack. Once chicken is fried once, increase heat to medium-high and fry chicken again for 3 minutes, until golden brown.
See page 29 for Amba Grilled Chicken
See page 26 for Lemon Herb Roasted Chicken
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PAN-SEARED CHICKEN
Marinate boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Heat ¼ cup oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear chicken for about 5 minutes per side.
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Teriyaki Marinade Yield: 1 cup
NOTE: Adjust the amount of brown sugar depending on your sweetness preference. Mix ½ cup teriyaki sauce, ¼-½ cup brown sugar, 2 minced garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger or 2 teaspoons ground ginger, 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, 1 tablespoon Sriracha or hot sauce and 1 teaspoon Chinese five spice (optional).
Herb Marinade Yield: 2 cups
Mix 1 cup each fresh parsley, basil and mint, finely chopped, ¼ cup olive oil, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Amba Marinade Yield: ¾ cup
Mix ½ cup amba, ¼ cup honey and 2 tablespoon olive oil.
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Lemon Herb Roasted Chicken Serves: 4
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shallots, halved lemon, cut into wedges
This chicken, which can be easily doubled, was wiped clean during the photoshoot.
1. Reserve ¼ cup marinade for serving. Toss chicken with remaining marinade and let marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
1
2. Preheat oven to 425°F. Arrange chicken in a 9x13-inch pan or baking sheet with shallots and lemons. Roast, uncovered, for 25 minutes.
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Herb Marinade (recipe above) pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs
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Herb Grilled Chicken Serves: 4
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Herb Marinade (recipe above) pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1. Reserve ¼ cup marinade for serving. Toss chicken with remaining marinade and let marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours. 2. Preheat grill to 400°F. Grill chicken for 5-6 minutes on one side, then flip and grill for another 4-5 minutes on the other. Alternatively, pan sear over medium-high heat for 5 minutes per side, until an internal thermometer reaches 165°F.
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Teriyaki Grilled Chicken Serves: 4
This all-purpose Asian marinade can be used on any protein. I love serving these skewers with thinly sliced cucumbers, scallions and toasted sesame seeds. 1
Teriyaki Marinade (page 25) pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
1. Reserve ¼ cup marinade for serving. Toss chicken with remaining marinade and let marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours. 2. Thread chicken onto metal or (pre-soaked) bamboo skewers. Preheat grill to 400°F. Grill skewers for 5-6 minutes, then flip and grill for another 2-3 minutes, brushing with reserved marinade. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds. Alternatively, pan sear whole thighs over medium-high heat for 5 minutes per side, until an internal thermometer reaches 165°F.
Amba Grilled Chicken Serves: 4
1
Amba Marinade (page 25) pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1. Reserve some marinade for serving. Toss chicken with remaining marinade and let marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours. 2. Preheat grill to 400°F. Sear chicken for 5-6 minutes, then flip and grill for another 4-5 minutes. Alternatively, pan sear over medium-high heat for 5 minutes per side, until an internal thermometer reaches 165°F. JULY 2022
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Chicken Karaage Serves: 6
Chicken karaage is a Japanese-style fried chicken. It is traditionally marinated in a soy sauce-based marinade and double fried for prime crispiness. 1½ 3
pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed Teriyaki Marinade (page 25) cups potato starch or all-purpose flour Oil, for frying Teriyaki Mayo (recipe follows), for serving Sliced cucumbers, fresh cilantro and sliced onions, for serving
1. Toss chicken with marinade and let marinate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. 2. Remove chicken from marinade and dust with potato starch. 3. Prepare a wire cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet. Heat a few inches of oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat to 325°F. Working in batches, fry chicken for 4 minutes, until crispy, but still pale. Transfer to a prepared cooling rack. Once chicken is fried once, increase heat to medium-high and fry chicken again for 3 minutes, until golden brown. 4. Serve with teriyaki mayo, cucumbers, cilantro and onions.
Teriyaki Mayo Yield: ¾ cup
Mix ½ cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup teriyaki sauce, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil and 1 teaspoon Sriracha or hot sauce.
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CULINARY SCHOOL
AS THE FOUNDER OF
WANDERING QUE, BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ
RECIPES BY: ARI WHITE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY: OHAD
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ONE OF THE ORIGINAL kosher barbecue catering services, Ari White has traveled all over the tristate area and beyond for pop-up events. Ari was an integral part of spearheading kosher barbecue culture and we recently teamed up with him to showcase some of his tried-and-true outdoor grilling tips that anyone at home can master. Each month, we go live on Instagram with different culinary experts at AJ Madison, Brooklyn’s premier appliance showroom. In preparation for the summer (aka outdoor grilling) season, we invited Ari to showcase how best to use an outdoor grill to maximize the experience. Working with the DCS Series 9 Evolution grill, Ari entertained the crowd not only with his humor, but loads of tips and tricks on utilizing real barbecue techniques and skills at home, specifically mimicking the effects of a smoker on a regular gas grill. While Ari prefers slow-cooking over wood flame or charcoal, that’s not as common or practical as the gas grill for the home cook. To mimic the effect of a woodburning grill at home and to impart subtle smoke flavor, Ari recommends a can smoker, something we had never seen before. Simply add soaked wood chips to a large, clean can (i.e. 28-ounce). Place it on one side of the grill and place meat on the other. Soaking the chips (in wine, beer, cider or apple juice for at least 15 minutes and up to 24 hours) imparts a better flavor and a longer smoke without the chips burning too quickly or igniting. However, don’t put extra liquid in the can — make sure to drain the chips well. A DIY can smoker is a great way to impart subtle smoke flavor into your grilled fare. Play around with different liquids and types of woods to control the flavor profile. Most importantly, have fun experimenting!
Check out Ari’s barbecue adventures on Instagram @wanderingque. Scan this QR code to watch the event on Instagram.
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The innovative design and combination of power, consistency and control of heat across the entire DCS range creates the perfect environment for any cooking technique – from a long, slow smoke for an unmistakable bark and perfect smoke ring, to a dark crust-creating sear on a filet of steak.
I'M NEVER IN ONE PLACE I ROAM FROM TOWN TO TOWN
I ROAM AROUND AROUND AROUND, AROUND AROUND JULY 2022
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ARMADILLO EGGS CULINARY SCHOOL
Serves: 8
A classic (non-kosher) barbecue staple, Armadillo eggs (which, unlike Scotch eggs, don’t actually use eggs) are certainly nothing new to my Texan brethren. I elevated them for a new and exciting addition to your upcoming summer Qs. PRO TIPS:
• Use the handle of a fork or spoon to core the jalapeños. • To ensure beef fry stays in place, secure with a toothpick or cook the armadillo eggs seam side-down. • You can use any spiced ground beef mixture, but breakfast sausage has an unparalleled flavor. 1 cup non-dairy cream cheese 1 cup non-dairy shredded cheddar cheese 2 tablespoons barbecue rub, divided 8 medium-large jalapeños, cored (see headnote) Breakfast sausage (recipe follows) 16-20 strips beef fry or pastrami 1. Mix cream cheese and shredded cheese with 1 tablespoon barbecue rub. Transfer mixture to a piping bag (or Ziploc bag with the corner cut off) and pipe the mixture into each jalapeño. 2. Enclose each cheese-stuffed jalapeño in about ⅔ cup sausage mixture, ensuring that the jalapeño is completely covered in sausage. Wrap with 2-3 strips of beef fry and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon barbecue rub. 3. Heat grill to 250-300°F. Grill armadillo eggs, covered, for 1½-2 hours. Alternatively, arrange on a baking sheet and cook, uncovered, in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes.
Breakfast Sausage Any meatloaf mixture will work for the armadillo eggs, but to be true to its roots, this breakfast sausage recipe is my baby. NOTE: If you can, use a combination of coarse-ground and fine-ground black pepper for the meat mixture — 2 teaspoons coarse-ground black pepper and 1 teaspoon fine-ground black pepper. Mix 1½ pounds ground beef, ½ cup apple juice, 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper (see headnote), 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, 1 teaspoon ground coriander and ½ teaspoon ground caraway seeds.
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'CAUSE I'M A WANDERER “Bacon” Wrapped Enoki Mushrooms These are killer and can totally be made in the oven with as much ease as an outdoor grill. There is no exact recipe for it, just a concept, so make as many or as little as you want. NOTE: If using wood or bamboo skewers, be sure to soak them in water for 30 minutes before using. Preheat grill to 350°F. Wrap a strip or two (depending on size) of beef bacon around a small bunch of enoki mushrooms and secure with a toothpick. Glaze with Ari’s Asian Glaze (recipe follows). For ease, double skewer 3 bundles with scallions in between. Grill for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, arrange on a baking sheet and cook in a 400°F oven for 30 minutes. Glaze again before serving.
Ari’s Asian Glaze For a shortcut, just about any store bought teriyaki or Asian-style marinade will do the trick. Add ½ cup soy sauce, ¼ cup sake or bourbon, 3 tablespoons maple syrup, 2 tablespoons mirin, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, ½-inch knob ginger (thinly sliced), 3-4 thinly sliced scallion greens and 2 garlic cloves to a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, uncovered, until reduced by half or until it coats the back of a spoon. Discard solids and let cool. 44
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Smoky Beef Cheek Barbacoa Serves: 8-12
If you don’t have a smoker, use a can smoker per Ari’s method on page 38. Alternatively, pan sear for 8 minutes per side, until golden, then finish in the oven per the recipe below. NOTE: Search the Fleishigs app for a recipe for Pickled Red Onions to serve with the tacos.
FO R T H E BA R BAC OA:
3 2 2 1 1 4 1 2 1-2 1-2 ¼
pounds beef cheek meat (about 4 cheeks) tablespoons kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper cup beef broth onion, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoon cumin teaspoons chipotle powder or 1 tablespoon chili in adobo bay leaves teaspoons ground oregano, optional teaspoon ground cloves, optional
FO R S E RV I N G :
2 ½ 3
Flour tortillas Pickled onions, thinly sliced (see head note) jalapeños, thinly sliced cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped limes, cut into wedges
1. Season beef cheeks with salt and pepper. Smoke for 2 hours at 275°F (see head note). 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix beef broth, onion, garlic, cumin, chipotle powder, bay leaves, oregano and cloves (if desired). Pour over the meat, then transfer to the oven. Cook for 3-3½ hours, until fork tender. 3. Shred meat and serve with warm flour tortillas, onions, jalapeños, cilantro and lime wedges.
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SEASONAL
BY: SHIFRA KLEIN
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PINEAPPLE IS THE SWEETEST AND IN PEAK SEASON IN JULY. A TRUE BLANK CANVAS TO BOTH SWEET AND SAVORY FLAVORS, PINEAPPLE CAN BE ELEVATED EVEN FURTHER WHEN GRILLED. TO BUY A NEAR-RIPE PINEAPPLE, JUST TUG AT ONE OF THE LEAVES — IF IT PULLS WITHOUT TOO MUCH FORCE, IT’S READY. IF NOT, IT CAN SIT FOR A FEW DAYS.
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Grilled Pineapple Salmon Serves: 8
Grilling fish is always delicious, but since fish flakes easily, it’s a delicate process. You can find cedar planks, trays or grilling mats, but our favorite hack is using sliced pineapple on the grill as a base for fish. It not only imparts a delicious flavor, but it’s a great way to grill fish without any special tools. (You can also use citrus slices, which we did with a whole branzino; recipe from issue #28 available on the app.) 2 ½ 6 1
cups sweet chili sauce cup pineapple juice (6-ounce) salmon fillets pineapple, peeled and sliced into 1½-inch rounds Fresh cilantro, for garnish
1. Mix sweet chili sauce and pineapple juice. Pour 1 cup over salmon and let marinate for 30 minutes. Reserve remaining marinade. 2. Heat grill to medium-high. Arrange pineapple on the grill and top with salmon. Close grill and cook for 8 minutes. Glaze salmon with additional marinade and cook for another 3-5 minutes, or until salmon is cooked to your liking. 3. Serve with remaining glaze and garnish with cilantro.
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Grilled Whole PIneapple Serves: 6
Fruits and vegetables as center stage is a well-established trend. Using pineapple for a shawarma-style dish is a (delicious!) showstopper. Serving it at a barbecue is a fun way to experiment with sweet and savory flavors. It’s great sliced and served in tacos with a creamy slaw or served alongside grilled steak. NOTE: We bought a Del Monte Pinkglow pineapple from tropicalfruitbox. com, a great resource for tropical, hard-to-find fruits and vegetables that ships nationwide.
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1 ⅓ 2 2 1 1
small pineapple, peeled cup oil tablespoons brown sugar tablespoons smoked paprika teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon kosher salt
1. Thread a large metal skewer through the center of the pineapple. 2. Preheat grill to 400°F. Mix oil, brown sugar and spices and brush all over pineapple, reserving the rest of the mixture to baste the pineapple as it cooks. 3. Grill pineapple for 5 minutes. Turn, baste and grill for another 5 minutes, continuing to turn and baste for another 20-30 minutes. To serve, carefully carve once cool enough to handle.
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Grilled London Broil with Charred Pineapple Salsa Serves: 6
Using the same marinade as the beef skewers, we decided to make a version with London broil, which is a popular cut of meat. This recipe can easily be doubled to feed a crowd. Grill the meat along with the pineapple and jalapeños for the salsa, then chop and assemble salsa while the steak rests. 1 1 ½
(2-pound) London broil cup teriyaki sauce cup pineapple juice Charred Pineapple Relish (recipe follows)
1. Add London broil to a Ziploc bag with teriyaki sauce and pineapple juice. Let marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours. 2. Preheat grill to high heat. Grill London broil, covered, for 7 minutes. Flip London broil and grill for another 5-6 minutes. Let rest. 3. Slice and serve with charred pineapple relish.
Charred Pineapple Salsa The pineapple and jalapeño are transformed on the grill and create an instant charred salsa, a wonderful accoutrement to grilled steak that can also be used on tacos or hot dogs at your endof-summer barbecue. Preheat grill to high. Drizzle 4 (½inch) cored pineapple rings and 2 jalapeños with 1 tablespoon oil. Grill for 5-6 minutes, then flip and grill for another 2-3 minutes, until charred on all sides. Chop the pineapple and jalapeños and mix with 3 minced scallions, the zest and juice of 1 lime and 1 tablespoon honey.
Pineapple Teriyaki Beef Skewers
1. Mix teriyaki sauce and pineapple juice. Pour half the marinade over the meat and stir to coat. Cover and chill for 10 minutes.
Serves: 4
2. Thread meat and pineapple onto metal or (pre-soaked) bamboo skewers. Preheat grill to 400°F. Grill skewers over medium heat for 3-4 minutes, then flip and grill for another 3-4 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer reads 145°F for medium-rare or 160°F for medium.
Pineapple juice is a natural tenderizer, so it’s an ideal marinade for meat. This is an easy and flavorful grilled dish with a tropical twist. See above for an alternative version using a London broil. 1 ½ 1½ 2
cup teriyaki sauce, divided cup pineapple juice pounds chuck steak, cubed cups pineapple chunks Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish Minced scallions, for garnish
3. Serve with remaining marinade and garnish with sesame seeds and scallions.
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Sweet Chili Pineapple Sweet Potatoes Serves: 6
This is a wonderful side to a barbecue or something different for Friday night alongside roasted chicken. 3 2 1 ¼ ¼ 1 ½ 2 1 1 1
sweet potatoes, cut into wedges tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into ½-inch rings red bell pepper cup sweet chili sauce tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon toasted sesame oil small bunch fresh cilantro, chopped bunch scallions, chopped
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and toss with oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 35 minutes. 2. Preheat grill to 400°F. Grill pineapple and pepper for 2-3 minutes per side, until slightly charred. Let cool slightly, then chop. 3. Mix sweet chili sauce, soy sauce and sesame oil. Toss with sweet potatoes, pineapple, peppers, cilantro and scallions.
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SOMETHING SWEET
Pineapple Upside Down Cake Serves: 10-12
While there is nothing grilled about this dessert, we couldn’t have a pineapple feature without a classic pineapple upside down cake. What’s better than elevating a store bought cake mix? NOTE: Reserve the pineapple syrup from the can of pineapple to use in the cake batter instead of water. Use up to 1 cup depending on your taste (the more you use, the sweeter the cake will be), supplementing with water as needed. FO R T H E CA R A M E L :
⅓ ⅔ 1½ ½ ⅛ 2 1
20
cup non-dairy butter substitute cup light brown sugar teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground cloves tablespoons light rum, optional (20-ounce) can pineapple slices in syrup, syrup reserved maraschino cherries
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. For the caramel, melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves and stir to combine. Add rum, if desired, and bring to a rolling boil. Remove from heat and pour into a 9x13-inch pan. 2. Top caramel mixture with pineapple slices. Place a cherry in the middle of each pineapple ring. Add more in between the rings, if desired. 3. For the cake, mix cake mix, oil and eggs. Add 1 cup water or reserved pineapple syrup (see headnote) and mix to incorporate. 4. Pour batter into the pan and bake for 45-55 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 5. Let cake cool for 5 minutes. Using a paring knife, run around the edges to carefully loosen the cake from the pan, then invert onto a cake plate. GRILL IT: A grilled cake? Yes! Simply place the pan in a 350°F grill and grill, covered, for 45-60 minutes.
FO R T H E CA K E :
1 ½ 3 1
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(15.25-ounce) box vanilla cake mix cup vegetable oil eggs cup water
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SEASONAL
Grilled Pineapple Margarita Serves: 4
This margarita is refreshing and delicious. To make it even more exciting, blend ingredients together for a slushy cocktail. To make it virgin, simply skip the tequila. ¼
1½ ½ 60
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pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into ½-inch rings cups chilled pineapple juice cup tequila
⅓ ¼ 1 1 1
cup lime juice cup agave tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon chili-lime seasoning lime, cut into wedges Grilled Pineapple (recipe follows), for garnish
1. Preheat grill to 400°F. Grill pineapple for 5-7 minutes per side. Let cool, then cut each ring into quarters. Set aside. 2. Working in batches if necessary, add pineapple juice, tequila, lime juice and agave
to a large cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake well. Alternatively, use a large container or mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. 3. Mix salt and chili-lime seasoning on a small plate. Rub the rims of four martini glasses with a lime wedge, then press into the salt mixture. 4. Fill glasses with ice and shake the cocktail shaker one more time. Pour margaritas into glasses. Garnish with lime wedges and grilled pineapple. www.fleishigs.com
SEASONAL
A fresh, zesty, herbaceous salad is the perfect complement to grilled feasts. By: Adina Silberman Snap Pea Citrus Salad Serves: 4
1 ½ 2
Feel free to substitute snow peas here in place of the sugar snap peas. For uniformity, cut all of the vegetables the same size.
4 ½ ½
FO R T H E S H A L LOT V I N A I G R E T T E :
¼ ¼ 2 2 1 1 ½ ¼
cup olive oil cup orange juice tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoons Dijon mustard shallot, finely minced tablespoon maple syrup teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FO R T H E SA L A D:
1
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cup sugar snap peas, strings removed and julienned
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large red bell pepper, julienned English cucumber, julienned oranges, peeled and supremed (reserve the juice) scallions, thinly sliced cup chopped fresh parsley cup chopped fresh mint
1. Whisk vinaigrette ingredients until well combined. 2. Arrange salad ingredients on a platter or in a large bowl and lightly toss with vinaigrette.
Spicy Peach Herb Salad Serves: 4
This salad is the epitome of summer with its bright colors and flavors coming from seasonal fruits and herbs. Substitute the peaches with any other stone fruit for a slightly different flavor profile.
FO R T H E S P I CY V I N A I G R E T T E :
¼ ¼ ½ ¼ 1
cup olive oil cup lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon chili paste
FO R T H E SA L A D:
6 1 ¼ ¼ ¼
unripe peaches, thinly sliced large red onion, thinly sliced cup fresh curly parsley, finely chopped cup fresh mint, finely chopped cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1. Whisk vinaigrette ingredients until well combined. 2. Arrange salad ingredients on a platter or in a large bowl and lightly toss with vinaigrette. www.fleishigs.com
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SEASONAL
Bagel Chip Salad Serves: 4
For best results, use a day-old bagel. The bagel chips can be made up to one week in advance and stored in an airtight bag or container in the fridge until ready to use. Alternatively, use store bought bagel chips. For uniformity, cut all of the vegetables the same size. FO R T H E BAG E L C H I PS :
1 2 ½
bagel, cut into ⅛-inch pieces tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt
FO R T H E V I N A I G R E T T E :
¼ ¼ ½ ¼
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cup extra-virgin olive oil cup balsamic vinegar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground
1
black pepper tablespoon minced garlic
FO R T H E SA L A D:
2 1 4 1 1 ⅓
cups cherry tomatoes, halved red bell pepper, chopped Persian cucumbers, chopped red onion, minced cup fresh basil, roughly chopped cup capers
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss bagel slices with olive oil and salt and arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer. Cook for 15-20 minutes, until golden brown. 2. Whisk vinaigrette ingredients until well combined. 3. Arrange salad ingredients on a platter or in a large bowl and lightly toss with vinaigrette.
Adina Silberman is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking, with a simple food philosophy — she cooks backwards, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks turn their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in New York with her husband and two daughters.
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COOKBOOK
FRANCIS MALLMANN
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COOKBOOK
BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ
PERHAPS ONE OF THE most renowned chefs and restaurateurs in all of South America, Francis Mallmann, who is from Argentina, has appeared on Netflix’s Chef’s Table and is the author of Seven Fires and Mallmann on Fire. In his newest work, Green Fire: Extraordinary Ways to Grill Fruits and Vegetables, Francis combines his passion for cooking with a newfound rediscovery of the wonders of vegetable cookery. What is a chef who is well known for cooking meat doing writing a cookbook dedicated to vegetables? With over 75 completely vegetarian recipes, the book is meant to relay the same sense of excitement over a crackling potato cooked over live fire as a ribeye. Green Fire celebrates the transformation of fruits and vegetables using elements as old as time — fire, coal and smoke — to create magical dishes. Francis’ goal is to savor familiar ingredients in a new light while respecting the bounty of the land and nature. The chapters of Green Fire are broken into chapters by 12 vegetables — potatoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, artichokes, beets, cabbages (and cousins), carrots, corn, fennel, beans, squash and pumpkin — and finishes with one chapter on fruit, followed by cocktails and basics. But before diving into the recipes, Francis lauds the benefits of fire and explains that a cook’s best tool in the kitchen is their intuition. It is with this knowledge that Francis breaks down the different methods of cooking over live fire — plancha (a large cast-iron surface); caldero (literally meaning “cauldron,” but similar to a Dutch oven); parrilla (grilling over coals; the most common grill in Argentina); horno (wood-fired oven); and rescoldo (food that is cooked under warm ember and ashes). Of course, there are more practical suggestions for the home cook on building a live fire, whether that’s over coals or using a gas grill. With dishes such as Tortilla Española De Boniatos (the classic Spanish potato dish made with sweet potatoes),
Carrots Chiringuito (a dish served at his Uruguayan restaurant by the same name), Humitas (a cousin of the tamale) and Chauchas A La Plancha (an Argentine mixed bean dish) Francis weaves his South American culture into many of the recipes with stories and tales of inspiration. However, there are many cultural influences from Francis’ life and travels, such as Deep-Fried Whole Artichokes, inspired by Italy; Ratatouille Tian and Churrasco, inspired by the South of France; and all-American Stone Fruit Galette. Green Fire offers so much to discover and marvel over, such as Whole Roasted Butternut Squash cooked rescoldo-style, buried in hot embers and cooked until tender; Hummus Milanesas, a vegan take on the traditional breaded beef cutlet, capturing the essence of the popular dish sold at bodegas and restaurants throughout Argentina (but without the meat); and
Grilled Bizcochuelo, a simple Spanish sponge cake. Unique cocktails made with a kiss of fire are, what Francis calls, “bettered by burning.” The book clearly encourages thinking outside the box. Each chapter proves that vegetables go beyond an ordinary salad and have multiple facets and personalities. The book showcases the harmony between live fire and vegetables and that it’s attainable even for produce you’d never imagine grilling. While the techniques of cooking over live fire can be involved and may take trial and error, with some practice it can become a go-to cooking method, imparting texture and flavor that can’t be achieved elsewhere. While this is not a marketed kosher cookbook, the recipes are all inherently kosher and many are vegan, though some recipes call for dairy ingredients, so substitute as needed if cooking a meat meal.
Green Fire: Extraordinary Ways to Grill Fruits and Vegetables By: Francis Mallmann Publisher: Artisan Books Photographer: William Hereford Release Date: May 10, 2022 Price: $40 (Hardcover) JULY 2022
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Excerpted from Green Fire by Francis Mallmann (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2022. Photography by William Hereford.
Young Carrots A La Plancha with Charred Mint and Green Garlic Salsa Serves 4 to 6
Young carrots cook up relatively quickly on the plancha — sweet yet crisp. At the same time of year that one harvests these carrot infants, green garlic and garlic scapes make their appearance as well. When carrots are tossed with a charred herb salsa, the effect is bracingly fresh, crunchy. Mint, though not sweet, has a way of encouraging the sweetness of other ingredients to come out for a visit on your palate. If you can’t find green garlic or it’s not in season, use scallions. N OT E S :
• If your young carrots come with their tender greens attached, by all means grill them as well. • Young carrots are long and slim. Socalled baby carrots—which have become popular for dipping in hummus or salsa— are not babies at all. They are made from mature carrots that are cut into sections and turned on a lathe-like machine. I don’t use them. 2 to 3 pounds (1 to 1.5 kg) young carrots, assorted colors if you can find them About ⅔ (160 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper A handful of mint sprigs, tied together with kitchen twine A handful of tender green garlic shoots, garlic scapes, garlic chives, or scallions Juice of 1 large lemon 1 bunch parsley, chopped Good-quality red wine vinegar A small pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
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1. Prepare a fire for medium heat and warm the plancha. (Or pull out a large castiron griddle if cooking indoors.) 2. Trim the tops of the carrots, scrub them well, and slice them lengthwise in half. Brush them with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Set aside on a sheet pan with the bundle of mint. 3. If the green garlic is on the thick side, slice it lengthwise. If using garlic scapes, cut crosswise into 6-inch (15 cm) lengths. If using garlic chives, pat them dry and tie them lightly together with kitchen twine. Whichever you are using, add them to the sheet pan and drizzle everything with olive oil. 4. Brush the hot plancha with olive oil (if cooking indoors, heat the griddle over medium heat, then brush with oil). When the oil shimmers, add the mint and the green garlic and cook until partially charred on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Baste the uncooked side of the herbs with olive oil and turn them over with tongs; cook for another minute or so to lightly brown the other side. The green garlic or garlic scapes should be somewhat softened. As they are done, transfer them to a large cutting board, then cut and discard the twine. 5. Trim off and discard any tough stems and chop the garlic together with the mint. Scrape into a bowl and drizzle with the lemon juice. Mix in the parsley and drizzle generously with olive oil and splashes of vinegar to taste. Season this salsa carefully with salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. 6. Wipe off the plancha or griddle and brush with olive oil. Spread out the carrots on the hot surface and cook for several minutes on both sides, until tender. To serve, transfer them to a serving dish and spoon the salsa over them.
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L'CHAIM
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GUSH ETZION LONE OAK RESERVE DRY
T U R A M O U N TA I N V I S TA
GEWÜRZTRAMINER, 2021
PINOT NOIR, 2020
Gush Etzion Winery proves its savoir-faire again in producing creative, high-quality white wines. It’s challenging to make a fully dry white wine from Gewürztraminer while maintaining a balance between the fruitiness, acidity and alcohol content. Yet Shraga Rozenberg, the proprietor and winemaker, has done it successfully. This wine has intoxicating notes of lychee, ripe apricot and dried rose petals. It’s vibrant, sharp and zippy, with a great mix of stone and tropical fruits. Drink it on the beach or poolside or pair it with smoked meat.
Pinot Noir is a tricky grape to cultivate and make wine from, especially in a warm climate. So when you encounter such a nice Pinot from Israel, grab it! It has delicate aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and strawberries, with hints of vanilla and oak. It has perfectly balanced acidity and soft tannins. Grilled veal chops, rotisserie chicken and fleshy tuna steaks are its natural companions.
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CHILLIN' THIS SUMMER WITH A WINE GLASS IN HAND BY: GABRIEL GELLER
Summer is officially here, which means it’s grilling season! (Although for me, grilling season is all year round.) So what should you drink while barbecuing, whether or not you are manning the grill? I have nothing against beer, but wine is a lot of fun too. Tasting wines from different regions around the world allows you to experience different styles, which are influenced by the cuisine, history and culture of the wine. So if you cannot go on vacation yet, you can still travel through a glass of delicious, fruity rosé from California, an earthy red Bordeaux or a sharp dry Gewürztraminer from the Judean Hills.
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L'CHAIM
BARON HERZOG ROSÉ, 2021
PSÂGOT ROSÉ , 2021
Wine does not need to be expensive to be enjoyable. Over the past 5+ years, there has been a strong trend of high-end rosé wines that cost $30 and beyond. While many of them are unique and complex, you certainly should not refrain from enjoying a good, inexpensive rosé as well. The Baron Herzog is a wonderfully refreshing and fruit-forward choice, with a subtle touch of sweetness. Enjoy it ice cold with salads, grilled chicken wings or on its own poolside.
Psâgot's winemaker Sam Soroka is Canadian-born, which is not the warmest climate out there. However, with his sense of humor and warm personality, he sure knows how to make a delightfully refreshing rosé! This crisp, dry, fruitforward rosé is like summer in a bottle. It has notes of watermelon, pink grapefruit and peach, as well as great minerals with mouth-watering acidity. It’s a terrific choice for a fresh fruit salad, sushi or grilled meat.
C H ÂT E A U C A N T E L O U P M É D O C , 2019 When a bottle of Bordeaux costs $100, not only do you expect it to be excellent, you demand it. The Canteloup costs less than $25 and it's terrific! Medium-bodied, earthy and elegant, it’s great with perfectly cooked steaks.
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BY: ADINA SILBERMAN
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AS A DENTIST, I have the great opportunity to schmooze with people from all walks of life, from university professors to startup founders to beloved grandmothers. At the end of summer, our office is known to bloom with patients and staff alike bringing in extras from their home gardens. One year, a patient (retired math teacher turned avid farmer) brought me two huge shopping bags filled to the brim with fresh corn, straight from her field in Illinois! We spent the visit discussing how versatile corn can be, but also how wonderful fresh kernels taste when they’re in season. Needless to say, dinners that week were all corninspired, but no one complained. This season, bring home a bag or two of fresh ears from the store or a local farmer’s market. With so much corn on hand, you’ll be inspired to use the sweet kernels to brighten up a variety of tasty dishes.
T H E BAS ICS To shuck the corn, microwave it, husk included, for 4-5 minutes. Using a towel, carefully cut 2 inches off from the stalk end, then squeeze or shake the cob out from the cut end. To steam shucked corn, simply wrap in a damp paper towel and microwave for 4-5 minutes. To cut kernels off the cob, rest an ear of shucked corn on the tube of a Bundt pan. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels off the cob, allowing them to collect into the pan.
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BBQ Pulled Brisket with Peppery Cornbread Topping Serves: 6-8
This cornbread recipe is a savory take on a classic sweet treat. To make it without the brisket, pour batter into muffin tins and bake in a 400°F oven for 15-18 minutes. EDITOR’S NOTE: You can use white or yellow cornmeal for this recipe; the white is more mild in flavor and the yellow is more reminiscent of a classic cornbread. FO R T H E P U L L E D B R I S K E T:
1 2
(2-pound) second-cut brisket cups barbecue sauce
FO R T H E C O R N B R E A D TO P P I N G :
2 1 ½ ¼ 1 1 1 ½ ½ 1
eggs cup non-dairy milk cup sugar cup (½ stick) non-dairy butter, melted cup all-purpose flour cup cornmeal tablespoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish cup fresh corn kernels, plus more for garnish Flaky salt
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Place brisket in a 9x13-inch baking pan and cover with barbecue sauce. Seal tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours, until fork tender. Shred, then transfer to a pie dish. 2. While brisket is cooking, prepare the cornbread batter. Whisk eggs, milk, sugar and melted butter until well combined. In a separate bowl, mix flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt and pepper, then add to the wet mixture, one cup at a time, gently mixing until incorporated. Fold in corn kernels. 3. Increase oven temperature to 400°F. Pour cornbread batter over pulled brisket, then top with some more corn kernels and a pinch of flaky salt and pepper. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean and the cornbread is golden.
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Corn Fritters with Spicy Mango Dipping Sauce Yield: 10-12 fritters
The key to getting these fritters extra crispy is to make a somewhat thick dough and fry in very hot oil. Once the fritter hits the hot oil, it should puff up and brown like a donut. 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½
cups fresh corn kernels large shallot, finely chopped (1-inch) knob ginger, grated tablespoon minced jalapeño cup chickpea flour tablespoons cornstarch teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon paprika teaspoon turmeric teaspoon cumin teaspoon coriander Vegetable oil, for frying Spicy Mango Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Pulse corn, shallots, ginger and jalapeños in a food processor fitted with the S-blade until kernels are mostly mashed, but some remain intact. Add chickpea flour, cornstarch and spices; pulse until incorporated. Refrigerate dough for 20-30 minutes to set. 2. Heat 2 inches of vegetable oil in a Dutch oven or large pot until it shimmers. Roll mixture into rough rounds, 2-3 tablespoons in size. Fry until golden on all sides, about 2-3 minutes per side. 3. Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer fritters to a paper towel-lined plate or wire rack to cool. Serve with dipping sauce.
Spicy Mango Dipping Sauce Yield:
Feel free to use frozen mango that has been thawed. If using fresh mango, it’s important for it to be fully ripe.
Blend 1 cup ripe mango, 1 tablespoon chili paste, ⅓ cup full-fat coconut milk, 1-2 tablespoons lime juice and ½ teaspoon kosher salt until smooth
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Crunchy Corn Salad Serves: 4
This is one of my all-time favorite salads. It is best made in the summer, when corn is in season, but can be made all year round with frozen or canned corn. The corn can be made up to 2 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the fridge. For an even quicker version, skip the roasting and simply use fresh corn kernels. EDITOR’S NOTE: For another shortcut, use store bought crunchy corn snacks, available in a bunch of flavors. FO R T H E S P I C E D C O R N :
2 ¼ 1 ¼ ½ ½
cups fresh corn kernels cup olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon smoked paprika
FO R T H E D R E SS I N G :
¼ ¼ 2 2 1 1 1 1 ½ ¼
cup olive oil cup mayonnaise tablespoons apple cider vinegar tablespoons ketchup tablespoon maple syrup tablespoon Worcestershire sauce tablespoon chili paste (optional) teaspoon liquid smoke teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FO R T H E SA L A D:
2 3 1 1 2 4 1
large heads romaine lettuce, chopped small Persian cucumbers, cut into half rounds large red bell pepper, thinly sliced cup grape tomatoes, halved avocados, cubed scallions, thinly sliced cup crushed yellow corn chips, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. For the spiced corn, toss corn with olive oil and spices. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for 20-25 minutes, until corn begins to brown and pop. 2. For the dressing, whisk all ingredients until incorporated. 3. For the salad, arrange lettuce, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, avocado and scallions on a large platter. Lightly toss with dressing and top with spiced corn and crushed corn chips.
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Salt and Vinegar Corn Riblets Yield: 12 riblets
A viral craze, these corn riblets are worth the effort! 3 ¼ 1 ½ ½ ½ ½ ¼
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ears fresh corn, shucked cup olive oil tablespoon sour salt teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon paprika teaspoon chili powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
JULY 2022
Minced fresh parsley, for garnish Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with foil and set aside. 2. To steam the corn, wrap it in damp paper towels and microwave for 4-5 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, mix oil and spices until well combined.
coated, then arrange in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 25-30 minutes, until slightly curled and golden. Garnish with parsley and serve with dipping sauce.
Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce Yield: ½ cup
4. Stand corn up vertically and slice in half lengthwise. Cut each half into quarters lengthwise.
Mix ¼ cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons
5. Toss corn in oil mixture until well
and 1 tablespoon maple syrup.
white vinegar, 1 tablespoon chili paste
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Corn Flatbread Serves: 4-6
The banana peppers here balance out the sweetness of the candied corn and add a subtle hint of spice. FO R T H E F L AT B R E A D:
1 3 2 1 ¼ 1 1 1 1 1 ¼
pound store bought pizza dough cups fresh corn kernels tablespoons finely chopped pickled banana peppers clove garlic, minced cup olive oil tablespoon nutritional yeast tablespoon maple syrup teaspoon paprika teaspoon chili powder, optional teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FO R T H E D R E SS I N G :
¼ ¼ 2 1 1
cup mayonnaise cup non-dairy sour cream tablespoons chili paste or ketchup tablespoon lime juice small clove garlic, minced
FO R S E RV I N G :
3 ½
scallions, finely chopped cup chopped fresh cilantro Lime wedges, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Roll out pizza dough into a rough 9x13-inch rectangle and place on the prepared baking sheet. Using a fork, poke holes along the surface of the dough. Bake for about 12 minutes, until golden brown. 3. Mix corn, banana peppers, garlic, oil, nutritional yeast, maple syrup, paprika, chili powder, salt and pepper 4. Mix dressing ingredients. When the dough is ready, spread ⅔ of the dressing over the entire surface, then top with corn. Cook for 15-20 minutes. 5. To serve, drizzle with remaining dressing and top with scallions, cilantro and a squeeze of lime.
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Corn Soup with Chunky Guacamole and Tortilla Crisps Serves: 4-6
If ever there was a soup fit for summer, this is it. If you like the soup on the chunkier side, reserve 1-2 cups of soup before blending, then add it back in. For the smoothest texture, use a high-powered blender, like a Vitamix, but an immersion blender works too. ¼ 4 1 ¼ ½ 6 5 ¼
cup olive oil shallots, finely chopped tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste teaspoon garlic powder cups fresh corn kernels, plus more for garnish cups water Tortilla Crisps (recipe follows) Chunky Guacamole (recipe follows) cup chopped fresh cilantro, for serving
1. Heat oil in a large pot over mediumhigh heat. Add shallots, salt, pepper and garlic powder and sauté for about 8 minutes, until golden and translucent. Add corn and sauté for another minute. 2. Add water, scraping up the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, until corn is tender. 3. Using a high-powered blender, blend soup until very smooth. Taste and season with more salt and pepper, as needed. Garnish with more fresh corn, if desired, and serve with tortillas, guacamole and cilantro.
Tortilla Crisps Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss 3 thinly sliced flour tortillas with 2 teaspoons olive oil and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and cook for 10-12 minutes, until crisp and golden.
Chunky Guacamole Lightly mash 1 avocado with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
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Pickled Corn Serves: 4-6
This is such a fun way to preserve the taste of summer and add an element of tanginess to your meal. Once pickled, corn will last in an airtight container in the fridge for a few months. NOTE: I like cutting the corn into rounds, but it’s just as good if you cut the kernels off entirely. 4 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 2
ears fresh corn, quartered cloves garlic red chili, thinly sliced green chili, thinly sliced teaspoon whole black peppercorns cup white vinegar cup water tablespoon kosher salt teaspoons sugar
1. Add corn, garlic, chilis and peppercorns to a glass jar with a tightfitting lid. 2. Add vinegar, water, salt and sugar to a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring until salt and sugar are dissolved, then pour over corn. Seal the jar and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving.
Corn and Jalapeño Confit Serves: 4
This elevated version of garlic confit can be served with challah or even as a sauce for steak or grilled chicken. 1 1 1 2 4 ½ ¼
cup extra-virgin olive oil cup fresh corn kernels jalapeño, seeded and thinly sliced shallots, quartered wedges cloves garlic teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Add all ingredients to a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a light boil, then lower heat and simmer, uncovered, for 30-40 minutes, until garlic is golden and tender. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
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Adina Silberman is trained as a dentist, but is passionate about home cooking, with a simple food philosophy — she cooks backwards, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks turn their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion. Adina lives in New York with her husband and two daughters. JULY 2022
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
We are touring Israel’s unique restaurant scene to vicariously experience various international cuisines. Our first stop is Greece.
BY: LONI AND MICHAEL SNAPE PHOTOGRAPHY BY: HANNA KOGAN
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IMAGINE YOU’RE DRIVING through the Greek countryside. You take a wrong turn and wind up at a small family-run taverna (a traditional restaurant in Greece) — hearty food, a warm breeze and the traditional music of the bouzouki wafting through the air. This is the atmosphere that the owners of Zoi – a kosher Balkan Greek restaurant located in Kfar Saba, Israel – wanted to create. Kfar Saba is a city in the Sharon region, which is in the Central District of Israel – think Raanana, Netanya, Herzliya and Tel Aviv, the city where a ton of really trendy and popular kosher restaurants are popping up at an incredible pace. Zoi, a quaint restaurant with blue and white checkered tablecloths and fishing nets along the walls, is tucked behind a vibrant fruit and vegetable shuk by day. At night, the courtyard comes alive with quaint restaurants, bakeries and bars, all with outdoor seating and lively music. As we sat down to eat, we were greeted by Gili, who founded Zoi with his wife. He explained that the inspiration for the restaurant was his grandmother's Greek food, which he grew up eating. Greek food is based on fresh fish, vegetables at the peak of ripeness, pure olive oil and delicious bread, cheeses and yogurt. All of the restaurant’s produce is sourced from the shuk right outside the restaurant, including the fish, which is caught fresh daily. The catch of the day dictates what will be on the menu that night – it doesn’t get fresher than that! Located in the Mediterranean, the cuisine of Greece is based around the “Mediterranean Triad” – grapes, olives and grains – and is the basis of most dishes. Olive oil and a plethora of herbs and spices like mint, basil, cumin, cinnamon, coriander, oregano and saffron are the foundational flavors of Greek cuisine. Bread, fruits, vegetables, honey and fish are also very popular and lamb is used quite frequently. There are some similarities between Israeli and Greek cuisine, so having a Greek restaurant in Israel really makes sense. Hearing about the ingredients that go into Greek cooking had us excited. We ordered sourdough bread, which is baked daily in-house, served alongside a plate of kalamata olives. We had to order the tzatziki, a traditional yogurt dip with chopped
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cucumber, dill and olive oil, to complement the fresh bread. And you can’t go to a Greek restaurant and not order dolma, grape leaves stuffed with rice with hints of mint and lemon zest. We also ordered a chopped tomato salad with kalamata olives and feta, which was dressed with nothing more than high-quality olive oil and lemon juice. For our mains, we enjoyed the special, which changes daily depending on the fish that is available that day. This time it was pan-seared sea bream over a spectacular mushroom and cheese
risotto, cooked in a deeply flavorful fish and vegetable stock for 12 hours and then finished with a hearty amount of kefalotyri, a traditional Greek cheese similar to Parmesan, for extreme creaminess. It had a deep flavor, unlike anything we’ve tried before. We also shared the spanakopita — filo dough filled with spinach and salty feta cheese served with a green salad. Light, fresh, satisfying and all perfectly seasoned. One look at the dessert menu and we knew we just couldn't resist. We went with knafeh, a traditional Middle Eastern dessert made with a pastry called kataifi. The cinnamon, honey and crushed nut mixture on top perfectly complemented the slightly salty cheese
in the center. And to top off an already perfect meal, we enjoyed two towers of ice cream with a liberal amount of berry jam. Complimentary tea and coffee allowed us to sit back and take in the romantic ambiance. This fresh and delicious meal definitely inspired us to lighten up summer dinners and we hope it will do the same for you! Enjoy (απολαμβάνω)!
Loni and Michael Snape live in Ra'anana, Israel with their one-year-old son. Loni, originally from Saint Louis, and Michael, originally from Cape Town, met in Israel and now run 98 Marketing, a Digital Marketing agency for startups. Loni and Michael love exploring new and interesting restaurants across Israel, as well as experiencing new areas, people and cultures.
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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y: YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H
is fascinating because the majority of people imbibing wine do not know what they are doing. They don't want to look clueless at a simcha, Shabbat meal or dinner party, so they copy what other people do, not understanding why they do it. People spend so much time and money on some luxuries regarding alcohol consumption, but do not take a few minutes to research some of the easiest things that can enhance their wine drinking experience. I have a whole list of these practices in my mind, but recently at our Shabbat table, our almost 5-year-old son asked my husband a simple question. "Papa," he said. "Why do we mix up the wine?" This kid has been tasting wine since birth. He absorbs information like a sponge and his inquisitive nature made me realize that most people do not understand why we decant or swirl wine. Most of the kosher wine on the shelves is consumed within one week to one month of purchase, which is mindblowing, since the potential for what we have on the market today ranges from wines that are ready to drink to those like a good Bordeaux or Rioja with aging potential of 20+ years. Just last night, we drank a 22-year-old Bordeaux with a dear friend. Patience is indeed a virtue and there is a small shortcut to preview the potential of these wines and enjoy them sooner — aeration/decanting. The most straightforward answer to why we aerate wine is that it is not just a beverage, but a complex living organism. Wine has sugars, yeast, bacteria, alcohol and many goodies mixed in beautiful symbiotic harmony. Living things need to breathe and wine is no exception. Sounds simple enough, right? In the olden days, when the techniques of winemaking were a bit different than now, people mostly decanted wine to separate the liquid from the solids, the deposit in a wine bottle called sediment. Nowadays, while there certainly are wines with sediment (and decanting can help this), it is not the main reason for decanting. Today, decanting, or mixing in WINE DRINKING BEHAVIOR
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THE MYSTERIES BEHIND AERATING WINE oxygen with wine, helps the wine develop the aromas and flavors on the nose and palate. A good rule of thumb is that most wines, especially higher-end wines that are young (counting from the year of harvest printed on the label), would benefit from decanting. This goes especially for red wines, but I have seen people, most notably Pierre Miodownick, winemaker extraordinaire of Netofa Winery, decant white wines as well. I have even seen my husband Gabriel decant a white wine or two that needed to "breathe." So how do we know when and how to decant wines? Wines, like cars or brand name items, have a reputation. Everyone knows that a Mac computer does not run the same way a PC runs. When buying a MacBook, you do not expect to find Internet Explorer on the desktop. The simple answer is reputation or
track record. After that is the age of the wine and how it was aged. When was it harvested? When was it bottled? Were oak barrels used? These clues give a lot of information. A young wine aged many months in barrels (new, old or mixed barrels) will usually benefit from some decanting time, aging in the bottle or both. There are a few easy ways to mix, aerate or decant wine (it really does not matter what you call it). The simplest way is swirling the wine in the glass, combining air and wine together, then drinking it immediately. This gives the wine some air time to fully bloom its flavors and is a delightful way to consume all types of wine. What is it about other wines, which require fancy pouring devices and glass contraptions that look like different exotic snakes or even a simple pitcher? How do we know which wines deserve which treatment? Is there a cheat sheet? The short answer is that there is no cheat sheet, but more of a learn-aswe-go type of attitude when it comes to this stuff. A simple bottle top aerator (available on Amazon) goes a long way. There is also the famous Vinturi aerator, which we occasionally use for great wines. The more air exposure to the liquid, the better. That is why those fancy snake-like decanters have so many bends and swirls — the more surface area the wine has, the more oxygen is integrated into the drink. There is no other beverage that this is done with besides wine (and whiskeys in some instances). Digging deeper, a chemical reaction occurs when wine is exposed to air. You may hear someone say that the alcohol blew off, which means that the volatile compounds have dissipated. Sometimes this refers to hydrogen sulfide (an eggy smell) or carbon dioxide, which can lead to very tannic (read: not a pleasurable drinking experience) flavors, especially in young wines. Older wines sometimes benefit from decanting. However, beware — old wines are much more delicate and susceptible to damage www.fleishigs.com
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from too much oxygen. It is safest to drink the old heavy hitters after allowing them to open up in the glass. So how do we know when a wine has been successfully decanted? Well, the best way is to progressively taste it from the moment the bottle is uncorked and then once every hour or so for the next six hours. This is like a real full-time job if you ask me. The most simple way is to decant it an
hour before go-time and enjoy throughout the meal. Another lovely suggestion I often give people is to either open the bottle before leaving to shul Friday night or “drop the shoulders,” a term that refers to pouring out about one glass (5 ounces) of wine and leaving it open; with the level of wine dropped, it allows some air to mix in, giving the wine just enough air exposure to start developing the flavors. Let me know what you do with
your wines to prepare them for drinking. I am always curious to see how different people treat and prepare my favorite beverage. L'Chaim!
Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com. JULY 2022
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BY: ROSA SEIDENWAR
CHILLED DESSERTS ARE THE PERFECT WAY TO END A LONG SHABBOS LUNCH IN THE SUMMER. IMPRESS YOUR GUESTS WITH THESE SIMPLE, MAKE AHEAD DESSERTS THAT PACK A FLAVORFUL PUNCH.
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Tahini “Nice” Cream Serves: 6-8
“Nice” cream is a non-dairy ice cream alternative made from frozen bananas. It’s popular because of its extra smooth texture and versatility. If you like bananas, you must try this recipe! NOTES: • The best way to freeze bananas for this recipe (or for any recipe that calls for frozen bananas) is to peel semi-ripe bananas, cut into 1-2” pieces and freeze in a single layer on a baking sheet. Once frozen, transfer to a freezer-safe Ziploc bag. • If it’s too hard to scoop, let it sit on the counter for a few minutes to soften before serving. 4 ¼ ¼ 1-2 ½
cups sliced frozen bananas (see head note) cup non-dairy milk cup tahini paste tablespoons honey teaspoon pure vanilla extract Sesame Candy (recipe follows), for garnish
1. Add bananas, milk, tahini, honey and vanilla to a blender. Blend until smooth, 2-3 minutes. Pour into a loaf pan, spreading into an even layer. 2. Cover well and freeze for at least 6 hours. Serve with sesame candy.
Sesame Candy Prepare a parchment-lined baking sheet. Add 1 cup sesame seeds and 1 cup sugar to a skillet over medium heat. Once sugar starts melting, stir for 1-2 minutes, until fully melted and golden. Pour onto the prepared baking sheet. Let cool, then break into chunks. Store in an airtight container in a cool spot.
Strawberry Balsamic Granita Serves: 8-10
Granita is a fresh, fun dish that everyone is sure to love. The balsamic vinegar complements the sweet strawberries perfectly — one of my favorite combinations. 1½ 1 ½ ¼ 2 100
pounds fresh strawberries, hulled cup water cup sugar Zest and juice of 1 lemon teaspoon kosher salt tablespoons balsamic vinegar
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1. Add strawberries, water, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt to a blender and blend until smooth, 2-3 minutes. 2. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve over a dish or freezer-safe container, pushing out as much liquid as possible. 3. Stir balsamic vinegar into the liquid. Cover and freeze for 3-5 hours, mixing with a fork every 45 minutes to break up the ice crystals. 4. Scrape granita once more with a fork until fluffy. Serve in individual cups. www.fleishigs.com
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Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a stop motion artist, creating scroll stopping animations for various brands. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_seidenwar or on her website rosaseidenwar.com. 102
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Mocha Semifreddo Serves: 8
Semifreddo, meaning half-frozen, is a classic Italian dessert somewhere between ice cream and mousse. This easy recipe is a delicious cool treat to enjoy any time. ¾ 1 4 ¾ 1 ¼
cup non-dairy whipping cream teaspoon pure vanilla extract egg yolks cup sugar teaspoon espresso powder cup chocolate syrup Dark chocolate shavings
1. Line a loaf pan with plastic wrap in both directions, so that there is enough to fully cover the sides. Place the prepared loaf pan in the freezer
to chill. 2. Beat the whipping cream and vanilla until stiff peaks form; refrigerate. 3. Add egg yolks, sugar and espresso powder to a heat-proof bowl and set over a double boiler, making sure that the water doesn't touch the bottom of the bowl. Whisk continuously for about 5 minutes, until the mixture has thickened and is pale in color. 4. Fold ⅓ of the egg mixture into the cold cream, then fold in the rest until all combined. Pour into the prepared loaf pan. Drizzle in chocolate syrup, swirling with a knife. 5. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for at least 6 hours. To serve, invert the pan onto a serving dish and peel away plastic wrap. Top with shaved chocolate.
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CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 25 Teriyaki Marinade Q 25 Herb Marinade Q 25 Amba Marinade M Q 31
Teriyaki Mayo M Q
I N D E X
55 Pineapple Teriyaki Beef Skewers M Q 76 BBQ Pulled Brisket with Peppery Cornbread Topping FF 106 Hot Dog Taquitos FF
44 Ari’s Asian Glaze
FISH & VEGETARIAN
55 Charred Pineapple Salsa
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Grilled Pineapple Salmon FF
60 Grilled Pineapple Margarita
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Grilled Whole Pineapple
78 Spicy Mango Dipping Sauce Q
57 Sweet Chili Pineapple Sweet Potatoes
82 Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce M Q
62 Snap Pea Citrus Salad FF Q
85 Tortilla Crisps M Q 85 Chunky Guacamole FF M Q 86 Pickled Corn 86 Corn and Jalapeño Confit
62 Spicy Peach Herb Salad Q 64 Bagel Chip Salad FF 68 Young Carrots A La Plancha with Charred Mint and Green Garlic Salsa
CHICKEN
78 Corn Fritters with Spicy Mango Dipping
26 Lemon Herb Roasted Chicken FF
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27 Herb Grilled Chicken M Q 29 Teriyaki Grilled Chicken M Q 29 Amba Grilled Chicken M Q 31
Chicken Karaage FF
MEAT 42 Armadillo Eggs 42 Breakfast Sausage 44 “Bacon” Wrapped Enoki Mushrooms 45 Smoky Beef Cheek Barbacoa 55 Grilled London Broil with Charred Pineapple Salsa FF
KEY: FF Family-Friendly
Sauce Crunchy Corn Salad FF
82 Salt and Vinegar Corn Riblets M 83 Corn Flatbread 85 Corn Soup with Chunky Guacamole and Tortilla Crisps FF
SWEET TREATS 57 Pineapple Upside Down Cake 100 Tahini “Nice” Cream FF 100 Sesame Candy M 100 Strawberry Balsamic Granita 102 Mocha Semifreddo FF
M Minimal Ingredients
Q Quick
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Hot Dog Taquitos Serves: 8
By: Shifra Klein
These Mexican hot dogs are a fun and different take on the classic. Bookmark this idea for Chanukah as well! 8 8 1
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corn tortillas hot dogs tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water Oil, for frying Mustard or hot sauce, for serving
1. Wrap tortillas in a moist paper towel and microwave for 30 seconds to soften. 2. Place a hot dog on the lower end of a tortilla and brush cornstarch mixture on the edges. Roll until sealed and secure with a toothpick if desired. 3. Heat a few inches of oil in a skillet or Dutch oven to 350°F and fry for 3 minutes per side, until golden brown. Serve with mustard or hot sauce. GRILL IT: Prepare taquitos through step 2, then brush the outside with oil and grill for 3 minutes per side. www.fleishigs.com