Fleishigs Magazine Issue 045 - February 2023 by Fleishigs Magazine

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THE

C O M FO RT FO O D I SSU E

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THIS PESACH BE YOUR OWN GUEST Welcome to your Pesach hotel experience, at home. With Batya’s divine food and a bit of elegant plating, you can celebrate as a gourmet chef in your own home. Free yourself to enjoy Pesach.

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Taste Tuscanini, Know Italy.

PI E

This purim, tenderize your meats with the deeply nuanced flavor of Tuscanini Cooking Wine. Whether roasted, braised, or even sous-vide, accentuate their flavors with the spirit of Italia. Let’s drink to that!MONT

EN PL ATE

SEASONAL

BUCHARIAN, PERSIAN, HUNGARIAN AND MOROCCAN DELIGHTS

NEW JEWISH COMFORT

FROM BRISKET TO SUSHI AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

EDITOR’S LETTER

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

HAPPENINGS A recap of recent Fleishigs events and celebrations

BUTCHER’S CUT Ground beef

COOKBOOK Totally Kosher by Chanie Apfelbaum

BREAKING BREAD New takes on challah-based classics

PROFILE Ari Raskin

L’CHAIM Sit back, relax and enjoy a good sip

TRAVEL Hotel highlights

110 SOMETHING SWEET Cinnamon buns: The ultimate break-the-fast food 116 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK 120 RECIPE INDEX

100

122 LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

DOLCETTO

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HERBS AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE.

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VENOHAPOCH

VENOHAPOCHWHO f inished the MISCEO? The Seudah hasn’t even started yet!

From cocktails that’ll turn up the fun at your Purim Seudah to adding a head-turning level of cool to that special Shalach Manos, Misceo artisanal coffee liqueur is turning up everywhere Purim matters. Quadruple-Award winning/Rated 92 By Wine Enthusiast.

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EDITOR'S LETTER

THE COMFORT FOOD ISSUE

COMFORT FOOD means something different to everyone. Even within my own family, my four children each have their go-to dishes that they can eat at any time of day — kale kugel is a favorite of both our oldest and youngest boys; steak night is a shared favorite of our two older boys; and our daughter is still in a pasta with ketchup stage. Even Shlomo and I are on opposite sides of the comfort food spectrum! While I gravitate towards chicken and potatoes, Shlomo obsesses over cheesecake. Even amongst our vast readership, the list of comfort foods are endless and varied. But when it comes to Jewish comfort foods, there are classic dishes that reign supreme amongst large swaths of the Jewish population. Traditional fare like brisket, chicken soup, latkes and pastrami are American Jewish favorites, while falafel and hummus are beloved by Israelis, kebabs and rice by Persian Jews, couscous amongst Moroccan Jews and plov amongst Bucharian Jews. In this issue, we explore classic Jewish dishes and share some traditional recipes with meaningful and nostalgic stories by those who contributed them. We also take a deep look into new takes on Jewish comfort foods.

My Russian Bubby's borscht is one of my ultimate comfort foods. A similar recipe that Esty Wolbe shared last Pesach can be found on the Fleishigs app.

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One of my personal gripes with the general media and mainstream perspectives on kosher and Jewish food is that it is very limited; people put it in a box and have absolutely no clue as to how diverse and exciting Jewish cuisine actually is. This is one of the main reasons why we started Fleishigs — to showcase the diversity and excitement that is current Jewish food and culture. Especially today with the amalgamation of cultures, we love combining Sephardic and Ashkenazi food to create new fusions and new traditions. In addition, the expansion of kosher ingredients allows for more experimentation, to the point where kosher sushi is now a mainstay all over the world! This issue celebrates the past and present with an eye on an exciting food future. Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappoport FOOD STYLIST ASSISTANT Rachel Boardman KITCHEN ASSISTANT Samantha Frank CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com

www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.

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T H I S M O N T H 'S C O N T R I B U TO RS :

CHARLENE AMINOFF is the CEO and founder of Gali’s Couture Wigs, a wig brand based out of New York. She is also a renowned speaker worldwide, making it one of her life missions to spread spirituality, kindness and the power of prayer. Fine Charlene on Instagram @charleneaminoff.

DEVORAH BACKMAN is a book marketer at W.W. Norton and Co., where she works with cookbooks and other lifestyle titles. When she's not working, she runs the Instagram account @thosesisterswhocook with her sister Chana Z. Weiss. Devorah lives in New Jersey with her husband and two kids.

DINAH BUCHOLZ is the New York Times bestselling author of The Unofficial Harry Potter Cookbook and a freelance writer. She can be reached through her website dinahbucholz.com.

NAOMI ELBERG, originally from Montreal, does cooking and baking demonstrations nationwide, growing her passion for all things baked. Naomi can be reached at TGIS.challah@gmail.com or on Instagram @naomi_TGIS.

GABRIEL GELLER is the Director of PR & Advertising and Manager of Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp. He is also a wine writer, critic and consultant. Reach Gabriel via Instagram @kosherwine_gg, email ggeller@royalwine.com or through his Facebook group, Kosher Wine: Sharing and Experiences.

YAEL GELLER is a wine enthusiast and co-manages the largest wine forum in the world, Kosher Wine: Sharing and Experiences, on Facebook with her husband Gabriel. Follow along on Yael’s adventures on Instagram @tigresskitchen.

NAFTALI HANAU’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold with his wife Anna, producing pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb and poultry with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

SHIFRA KLEIN is a food writer, food stylist and the co-founder and editor-in-chief of Fleishigs Magazine, the world’s premier kosher food and lifestyle magazine. Shifra can be reached on Instagram @shifraklein.

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FULL LINE OF:

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Faucets & Coordinating Bathroom Fixtures

T H I S M O N T H 'S C O N T R I B U TO RS :

Born and raised in Panama City and now living in Detroit, VERA NEWMAN is the author of The Marblespoon Cookbook and is also a party planner and caterer. Find Vera on Instagram @marblespoon.

ROCHIE PINSON is the bestselling Rising! The Book of Challah and The Kids Book of Challah. Rochie travels the globe, bringing the practice of challah to a whole new level of joy and spiritual significance. Follow Rochie on Instagram @rochiepinson or therisinglife.net.

CHAYA RAPPOPORT is a New Yorkbased food stylist, recipe developer and writer. She enjoys hosting big dinners, teaching baking workshops and perusing local farmers’ markets. You can find her recipes on retrolillies.com and Instagram @retrolillies.

ARI RASKIN is the creator and chef behind the TMR Supper Club based out of Chabad of the Town, Montreal, focusing on casual takeout with a gourmet twist. Follow @ariraskin on Instagram or Facebook to see menus and a pop-up schedule.

ADINA SILBERMAN is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina. Adina lives in New York with her husband and two daughters.

ELISHEVA TAITZ works full-time in the corporate healthcare industry and is also a food writer, recipe developer and the editor of Fleishigs Magazine. She lives with her family in Cedarhurst, NY. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

CHANA ZELDA WEISS is a mom of four, full-time support and HR manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister Devorah on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

VICTORIA ZIRKIEV, originally from Uzbekistan, is the CEO of Hoshen Productions, one of the Jewish music industry’s leading production and artist representation companies. When she is not working on various advocacy causes, Victoria can be found cooking Bucharian delicacies for her family. Follow Victoria on Instagram @victoria_zirkiev.

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Happenings

IT HAS BEEN A BUSY FEW MONTHS AT FLEISHIGS WITH A VARIETY OF EVENTS AND CELEBRATIONS. HERE IS A BRIEF LOOK AT SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE PAST YEAR.

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Thomas Ashbourne launch party at Wall Street Grill in NYC

Thomas Ashbourne Launch Party at Wall Street Grill

The full line of Thomas Ashbourne ready-to-drink cocktails at the kosher launch party at Wall Street Grill in NYC

A national brand that values its kosher consumers, Thomas Ashbourne prioritized a dedicated kosher launch of its unique pre-made canned cocktails. Celebrity co-founders Vanessa Hudgens and Ashley Benson attended and wished guests a meaningful l’chaim on the iconic rooftop at Wall Street Grill.

Tripping Kosher Segment While in Florida for Dini’s event at the new AJ Madison showroom, Tripping Kosher filmed their segment for the Chinese Issue at Bambu Pan Asian Kitchen and Shlomo even made an appearance. Find the video on Tripping Kosher’s YouTube channel.

FEBRUARY 2023

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Jewish Food Media Conference at Sen Sakana Melinda Strauss founded the Jewish Food Media Conference in 2017 for Jewish food media personalities to gain inspiration. This year, Fleishigs, together with Masbia Kitchen, hosted the event at Sen Sakana, which featured renowned brand building expert Remi Franklin and cookbook agent Jennifer Weis. Two of the event’s sponsors, 7th Heaven Chocolate and Thomas Ashbourne, provided interactive chocolate and cocktail tastings, respectively. There was even a surprise appearance by NYC mayor Eric Adams! The stellar food prepared by Chef Mina Newman made the event even more memorable.

Mayor Eric Adams at the JFM Conference

Shifra and Shlomo Klein at the JFM Conference at Sen Sakana in NYC

Dini Klein’s Cookbook Launch Parties at AJ Madison We celebrated Dini Klein’s new cookbook, Prep + Rally, with an event at AJ Madison in Brooklyn, where she demonstrated how to make her signature meatballs with caramelized onions and quinoa — as part of her tried-and-true meal prep system. Then, to celebrate the opening of AJ Madison’s Miami showroom, Fleishigs held another launch party where Dini demonstrated a savory cornbread French toast and guests enjoyed a dairy brunch.

Prep + Rally launch party at AJ Madison's Brooklyn showroom

Dini Klein at her Prep + Rally launch party at AJ Madison's Miami showroom

FEBRUARY 2023

Fleishigs

CELEBRATE

PESACH

Rabbi Eli Mansour

BENEATH THE PALMS

Yaakov Shwekey

April 4-14, 2023 Spend the entire Yom Tov with Yaakov Shwekey and Rabbi Eli Mansour. Featuring luxury lavish tea room with world-class dining by Chef Shimi Alon, at the magnificent Altair Hotel in Bay Harbor, Florida. A wide offering of exclusive activities, beautiful Davening, Kumsitz Concert with Yaakov Shwekey, and inspiring lectures by Rabbi Eli Mansour awaits you. ROOFTOP POOL & BAR | BEACH CLUB | FITNESS CENTER | WATERSPORTS DAY CAMP & BABYSITTING | ENTERTAINMENT | LAVISH TEA ROOM

Pesach@theAltairHotel.com calendly.com/altairhotel TheAltairHotel.com

Non Kitniot, Non Gebrokts All meals throughout Yom Tov is by Ovo at the Altair. Ovo is under the strict supervision of KM. All dairy products are Cholov Yisroel and all meat has Chassidishe Shechita.

HAPPENINGS

Susie Fishbein showing her new AJ Madison kitchen appliances

The tasting menu prepared by Susie Fishbein for her dinner party

Susie Fishbein x AJ Madison x Fleishigs Chanukah Dinner Party To highlight the latest in kitchen appliances, Susie Fishbein prepared a feast celebrating dishes from all her cookbooks in her newly designed home. A group of cookbook authors, food bloggers and influencers enjoyed tasting, mingling and hearing about the features of the AJ Madison appliances that Susie chose for her new kitchen.

Naomi Ross’ Cookbook Launch Party at Joneses We celebrated the new meaningful cookbook, The Giving Table, released by culinary instructor and Fleishigs contributor Naomi Ross. Local influencers and friends came to celebrate at the intimate event held at the Fleishigs test kitchen located within Joneses in Cedarhurst, NY.

Kosherfest + New Product Competition Shlomo represented Fleishigs at Kosherfest, the annual kosher trade show. He was also part of the judging panel of the New Product Competition along with other industry experts. Amongst the highlights were 7th Heaven Chocolate, a vegan chocolate brand that tastes surprisingly like milk chocolate!

FEBRUARY 2023

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NOT A NOT HE R WA F E R R O L L

Whether you mix it, match it, or pair it with a nice bottle, these sweet treats are a real feast for the eyes. Choose from these vibrant varieties and elevate your mishloach manos.

Ge t

BUTCHER'S CUT

:N A

F TA

“Ground beef” and “chopped meat” mean the same thing — meat that has been ground in a mechanical grinder, sometimes more than once, to create an incredibly versatile ingredient that is a staple in kitchens worldwide to make burgers, meatballs, stuffed vegetables, kebabs and so on. You can grind any cut of beef, but typically you’ll use portions that are trimmed when fabricating other steaks and roasts, as well as tougher shoulder meat. Since the meat being ground may or may not have fat, cubes of beef fat are added to the grinder to achieve the desired meat-to-fat ratio. Although we’re used to thinking about percentage of fat in dairy products (i.e. 2% milk), for ground meats the nomenclature is reversed; to get the fat percentage, you have to do the math — “regular” ground beef is about 80-85% lean and “lean” ground beef is typically 90% lean.

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Lean ground beef is very useful when you don’t want a lot of extra fat leaking into the other components of the dish. We make empanadas with lean ground beef; it would also be good in a layered casserole or stuffed vegetables. If you prefer the taste of lean ground beef, you can always increase the moisture/fat content by adding olive oil, caramelized onions or mayonnaise, depending on your recipe. Some recipes add moisture to ground beef items (like meatloaf and meatballs) by adding milk-soaked bread to the mix; you can use any mildly-flavored unsweetened non-dairy milk substitutes for this. For items where the meat is really on its own, with few other ingredients added (like burgers), we’d strongly recommend regular ground beef for texture, moisture and flavor (fat contributes to all three). Some butchers will make special grinds for specific uses. For example, at Grow & Behold, we make a 75% lean “Premium Burger Blend,” which is coarser than our regular ground beef and made from chuck and brisket, two particularly flavorful cuts on the steer.

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The grind is real.

BUTCHER'S CUT

In general, you want to handle ground beef lightly. Too much mixing, kneading, pressing or stirring can squeeze the air out of the mix, which is necessary to maintain lightness and tenderness while cooking. That said, it’s an incredibly versatile base for exploring spices and flavors from all over the world. Some favorites of ours include meatballs with fresh garlic and parsley or kebabs with cumin and sumac. Ground beef is frequently mixed with cinnamon, allspice and/or raisins in Persian cooking and tamarind in Syrian cooking. You’ll find that ground beef works with just about anything!

FEBRUARY 2023

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Potato Kugel Shepherd’s Pie Serves: 8-10

By: Shifra Klein

Shepherd’s Pie is a stew that is traditionally topped with mashed potatoes. Here it’s topped with a shredded potato topping, reminiscent of potato kugel. FOR THE FILLING: 1½ pounds ground beef ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons oil 1 Spanish onion, diced 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided 3 carrots, diced 3 stalks celery, diced 3 cloves garlic 2 sprigs fresh thyme ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2½-3 cups water or broth 1 bag frozen peas, optional

NOTES: • If adding frozen peas to the mixture, use ½ cup less water or broth in the filling. • Adding baking soda to ground beef may seem odd, but in fact it helps tenderize the meat. • To serve for Shabbat, keep warm in a 200°F oven for at least a few hours before serving.

FOR THE KUGEL TOPPING: 3 extra-large eggs ½ cup oil 3 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and grated 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Mix ground beef, baking soda and soy sauce; set aside. 2. Heat oil in a pot over medium heat. Add onions and 1 teaspoon salt; sauté for 10 minutes, until onions are translucent and softened. Add carrots, celery, garlic, thyme (if desired), pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; sauté for another 5 minutes. 3. Add ground beef mixture and brown, undisturbed, for 5 minutes, then break up with a wooden spoon and cook for another 5 minutes until completely browned and mostly cooked through. Add tomato paste and sauté for another 3-5 minutes. 4. Add flour and cook for 3 minutes, until incorporated. Add water or broth and peas (see head note). Transfer mixture to a 9x13inch baking dish. 5. Mix eggs, oil, salt and pepper, then add grated potatoes; mix to combine. 6. Evenly distribute potato mixture over the meat mixture. Cook for 1 hour and 20 minutes, until golden brown.

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Beef Up

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BUTCHER'S CUT

FEBRUARY 2023

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Silan Glazed Koftes

Life is all about the grind.

Serves: 4-6

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By: Vera Newman

My cooking style is heavily influenced by my Panamanian roots. Growing up in a large (and mainly Syrian) community shaped my appreciation for the beauty of traditions and serving a very well-balanced, flavorful meal. This easy recipe is inspired by that. FOR THE KOFTES: 1½ pounds ground lamb or beef ½ onion, finely minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon cumin ¼ teaspoon allspice ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

FOR THE SAUCE: ⅓ cup silan (date syrup) ⅓ cup apricot jam ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon paprika 2 tablespoons oil 2 tablespoons onion soup mix 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. For the koftes, mix all ingredients in a bowl until just combined. 2. Form about 16 meatballs or torpedoshaped logs. Place on a broiler pan and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, add sauce ingredients to a pot over medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 10 minutes. 4. Transfer koftes to the sauce and mix well to combine.

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FEBRUARY 2023

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MASBIA NEEDS YOUR HELP TO FEED THE NEEDY. DONATE TODAY! I’m here to make your charitable giving just a little more delicious. My new cookbook, The Giving Table, just debuted, containing over 160 recipes with gorgeous photography and links to how-to videos. In the book, I write about the power of giving through food and my experience sharing food with the needy through working with Masbia. They do amazing work and I love the organization.

For only $10, you can sponsor 1 hot, ready-to-eat meal.

Sponsor 18 meals for $180, I will send you a copy of my beautiful new cookbook.

Sponsor 180 meals for $1,800, I will send you a personalized autographed copy.

For $18,000 to help buy food at Masbia I will give you a cooking lesson.

In the cookbook I mentioned how People Magazine described Masbia as "a restaurant without a cash register" and that dinners are served restaurant-style by dedicated volunteers. At the same time, Masbia also runs a massive logistical operation and large-scale food distribution center that goes through roughly 50,000 pounds of food each week, giving families raw food ingredients to be cooked at home. Thousands of families in need get food at Masbia every week. Hundreds of people in need get dinner at Masbia every day. Please donate today.

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OUR BAKERY IS CUTTING CORNERS. AND THE RESULTS ARE DELICIOUS. cedarhurst

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COOKBOOK

Totally kosher:

Review

BY: C H A N A Z . W E I SS

Tradition with a twist! 150+ recipes for the holidays and every day

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COOKBOOK

ew are as well known in the kosher food blogging world as Chanie Apfelbaum, otherwise known as Busy in Brooklyn and the author of Millenial Kosher (2018). Chanie has gained widespread recognition as one of the first kosher food bloggers and her approachable recipes and cooking demonstrations have influenced kitchens around the world. She is renowned for introducing home cooks to exciting ways to incorporate global flavors into their kosher kitchens, often combining traditional and international ingredients in her recipes, sharing her love of food, family and tradition on social media and in interactive cooking demonstrations and workshops worldwide. While there is no shortage of gorgeous, glossy food photos to fill your Instagram feed, Chanie shares relatable content, helpful tutorials on everything from oil to Dutch ovens and most importantly, recipes that people want to actually cook and not just look at. In her newest book, Totally Kosher, she offers home cooks over 150 accessible and exciting recipes and tips for adding new flavors to their kosher kitchens, as well as practical advice and lots of easy shortcuts for busy days. Her first book to be published with a

mainstream cookbook publisher, Totally Kosher is peppered with heartwarming photos of Chanie and her five children, including one of her and her daughters lighting Shabbos candles, reminiscent of a similar photo taken of Chanie as a young girl with her mother and sister as part of a campaign for Chabad and published as a full-page ad in The New York Times. The book begins with a basic primer on the laws of kashrut, as well as Chanie’s Top Tens — ingredients, tools, kitchen hacks and board concepts. Each of the 14 chapters is filled with recipes that feel fresh and new, yet still familiar and approachable. Breakfast & Brunch includes everyday basics like Crispy Kale and Egg Skillet for One as well as more involved options like Shlissel Jerusalem Bagels. The Appetizers & Finger Foods chapter includes party food like Fried Cornichons with Sweet Chili Dip, new versions of fan favorites like the Buffalo Hasselback Salami and Shabbat-friendly options like Jeweled Hummus and Bloody Mary Pickled Salmon. Sammies & Tacos features fun creations like the Stuffed Boureka Sandwich, Philly “Cheesesteak” (made with mushrooms) and corn-nut crusted Elote Schnitzel Subs (bet you thought you had seen every type of schnitzel that exists!). A self-proclaimed “Salad Queen,” Chanie’s Salads chapter includes new versions of old classics like Broccoli Salad 2.0 along with Israeliinspired options like Sabich Salad. In Soups, Chanie elevates

By: Chanie Apfelbaum Publisher: Clarkson Potter Photographs by: Chanie Apfelbaum Lifestyle photographs by: Lauren Volo Release date: March 23, 2023 Price: $37.50

FEBRUARY 2023

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COOKBOOK

the most comforting comfort food there is with Moroccan Carrot Soup topped with toasted sourdough gremolata and Miso Matzo Ball Soup with fluffy scallion matzo balls. It’s Tradition returns to basics with The Rebbetzin’s Gefilte Fish, Ma’s Perfect Potato Kugel and Bubby’s Stuffed Cabbage. Fins & Scales offers fish dishes like Apple and Honey Mustard Salmon and Simply Crudo with Cilantro Crema, while Winner Winner Chicken Dinner features dishes influenced by some of Chanie’s favorite international cuisines, including Pad Chai and Yemenite “Soup” Sheet Pan Chicken. Find Shabbat inspiration like Miso London Broil and Slow Cooker Berbere Brisket in Split Hooves, then turn to Meatless Meals for weeknight options like Smashed Falafel and Tempeh Shawarma Bowl. In Veg & Sides, you’ll find effortless options like Japanese Sweet Potatoes with Miso Tahini Butter and Everything Green Beans. The Bakery includes Hawaij Gingersnaps as well as Cinnamon Babka Straws, a sequel to the chocolate version that was arguably one of the most popular recipes in Chanie’s first cookbook, Millennial Kosher. Next is Noshes & Nibbles,

with fun treats like Mango Paletas with Mexican Candy Spice, Marzipan Butter Cups and a recipe for homemade BBQ Bissli. Finally, You’re So Extra! — a bonus chapter backed with basic toppings, dressings, spice blends and spreads that just might be the most useful part of the whole book. The book is written with clear, doable instructions and packed with helpful tips, bonus variations and practical “Easy Does It!” swaps to achieve similar results with less time and effort. Perhaps best of all is the final chapter, How to Plan Menus, which serves as a guide to the rest of the book. “Planning a menu is truly an art form,” writes Chanie, “but it’s one that can be learned, and it’s an important one to master.” While weekly menu planning for Shabbat can seem daunting, Chanie walks her readers through the basics on how to create a well-executed, cohesive menu (sample menus included!), which takes the pressure off of cooking so many dishes on a weekly basis while also reducing waste and creating a more pleasurable experience for your guests. Whether cooking dinner for your family or hosting Shabbat guests, Totally Kosher is sure to inspire readers to bring the fun back into the kitchen.

“Planning a menu is truly an art form, but it’s one that can be learned, and it’s an important one to master.” -Chanie Apfelbaum 36

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FEBRUARY 2023

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COOKBOOK

Yemenite “Soup” Sheet Pan Chicken Serves 4 to 6

The only way to describe a bowl of Yemenite soup is otherworldly. The smell—a heady blend of cumin, coriander, cardamom, and cloves—intoxicates the senses. It’s pure comfort food in a bowl. That smell comes from hawaij, a curry blend native to Yemenite cuisine, not to be confused with hawaij for coffee, its sweet counterpart. I use the spice blend on a whole chicken and roast it on a sheet pan for all the comfort of a bowl of soup turned into a heavenly sheet pan dinner. 1 1 2 ½ 1½ 2 1 3 ¼

(3-pound) whole chicken bunch of fresh cilantro heads garlic, cut in half crosswise lemon to 2 pounds baby Yukon gold potatoes, halved plum tomatoes, quartered small Spanish onion, sliced into wedges tablespoons Hawaij for Soup cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt Hilbe or Schug, for serving (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or foil. 2. Stuff the chicken cavity with most of the cilantro (reserving some for garnish), ½ head of the garlic, and the lemon half. Place it, breast-side up, in the center of the baking sheet. Arrange the potatoes, tomatoes, and onions around the chicken in a single layer. 3. In a small bowl, mix the hawaij and olive oil and brush it over the chicken (and under the skin) and vegetables. Season generously with salt. Tuck the remaining 2½ garlic heads, cut-side down, into the vegetables. 4. Bake for 1 hour, basting the chicken and vegetables with the pan juices halfway through, or until the chicken juices run clear and the vegetables are tender and caramelized. 5. Garnish with remaining fresh cilantro and serve with hilbe or Schug. E ASY D O E S I T !

Use store-bought hawaij seasoning, available in Middle Eastern markets. Pereg is my preferred brand, labeled “mixed spices for soup.”

Reprinted with permission from Totally Kosher Copyright © 2023 by Chanie Apfelbaum. Photographs copyright © 2023 by Chanie Apfelbaum. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Random House. FEBRUARY 2023

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Morrocan food is a truly beloved cuisine by many. Even those without any Moroccan roots have likely tried some version of Moroccan fish, matbucha and couscous! Every Moroccan mother and grandmother have their own versions of these classic dishes. Here is my favorite Moroccan family recipe — a one-pot meal that is warm, hearty and satisfying, full of meat, vegetables and of course, the star of the show — fluffy couscous.

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Moroccan Couscous Serves: 4-6

Every Moroccan family most likely has their own version of Moroccan couscous. I was lucky enough to grow up with both Moroccan and Syrian grandparents; my late grandmother had her own flair in the kitchen and managed to serve an incredible spread every time her children and grandchildren visited. This recipe is comforting but fresh at the same time. For me, it’s nostalgia in a bowl. 1 tablespoon olive oil 1-1½ pounds lamb stew meat or flanken, cut into 1½-inch pieces 1 onion, chopped 2 teaspoons paprika 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ ¼ 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 ¼ ¼ 1

teaspoon turmeric teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Pinch of saffron Pinch of sugar large carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks pound butternut squash, peeled and cubed parsnip, peeled and cut into matchsticks zucchini, cut into matchsticks (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes cups chicken broth cup fresh parsley, chopped, plus more for garnish cup fresh cilantro, chopped, plus more for garnish (10-ounce) box couscous, prepared according to package directions

1. Heat olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Sear meat for 5-6 minutes per side, until browned. Add onions and sauté until translucent. Season with paprika, ginger, salt, pepper, coriander, turmeric, red pepper flakes, saffron and sugar; mix well to coat. 2. Add carrots, butternut squash and parsnips; sauté for 5 minutes. 3. Add zucchini and chickpeas; sauté for another 3 minutes. Add crushed tomatoes, broth, parsley and cilantro; mix well. 4. Cook over medium-low heat, slightly covered, until vegetables are cooked through and meat is tender, about 1 hour. 5. Serve over couscous. Garnish with more parsley and cilantro.

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Of Food and Fashion

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BY: D I N A H B U C H O L Z R E C I P E S BY: C H A R L E N E A M I N O F F

hen Charlene Aminoff was a little girl, she expected that she would grow up to be a homemaker like her mom, one of her childhood heroes (the other is her dad). She did not envision life as the founder and CEO of a wig company, a fashion designer, a makeup creator, renowned motivational speaker, and the driving force behind the Nishmat Movement and various women’s events. Charlene grew up in a modest, twobedroom apartment that she shared with her parents and siblings. “We had nothing, but we had everything,” she says. They never felt the lack of anything material because of her mom’s constant thanks to Hashem. Her parents had escaped Iran during the revolution. “My mom would put her hand on the mezuzah,” Charlene recalls, “and say, thank you, Hashem, that I live in this mansion!” Charlene never thought that their tiny apartment was anything but. Her parents' attitude and philosophy that

you should “spend half as much on your children but twice as much time” provided stability through good times and bad. Those familiar with Charlene’s story know her as the mother of Gali, who drowned in a swimming pool at the age of two. As a stranger held up her body, screaming for help, her father, an experienced Hatzalah medic, rushed forward, but his frantic efforts to resuscitate her failed. As Charlene cried out in prayer, she vowed to cover her hair. The instant she finished wrapping a shawl around her head, her husband detected a pulse and life rushed back into her baby’s body. Inspired to help other women cover their hair, Charlene founded Gali’s Couture Wigs and eventually obtained insurance coverage for women with medical hair loss. Instead of this harrowing story being the only key turning point in her life, Charlene shared that being bullied in school taught her the importance of kindness and suffering through eleven miscarriages strengthened her belief in God. With each pregnancy, she took on another mitzvah, only to yet again lose the baby. She would ask, how could Hashem fail her? “But a big girl understands,” she explains, “we have to be okay with making Hashem’s will our will. You have to constantly remind yourself that this isn’t the world where we have all the answers; this is the world where we have all the questions. But God willing, in the World to Come, our question marks will turn into exclamation points.” Despite her many businesses and projects, Charlene says her greatest accomplishment is her children, www.fleishigs.com

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proving to the infertility specialists that Hashem is the ultimate doctor. After that, her life centers around food. “Even though she’s a cosmopolitan businesswoman,” her husband Jonathan Aminoff says, “food is the essence.” Charlene fell in love with cooking at the age of seven, when she would watch her mom in the kitchen. “I was born with a spatula in my hands,” she says. “My most comfortable domain is my kitchen.” Charlene recalls her mom calling her to the kitchen whenever she was cooking authentic Persian dishes. Charlene would take notes in her black-and-white marble composition notebook on how to prepare the rice and how many "swirls" of salt and oil to add. Gratitude, belief in God and praying form a huge part of her life, and Charlene brings all of those right into the kitchen with her. Emulating her mother, she sings Tehillim, recites prayers and talks to Hashem in her own words as she cooks, behaviors that her daughters have also naturally absorbed. Though she limits her Shabbat hosting so she can spend time with her family, Charlene spares no effort when it comes to holidays like Sukkot, often entertaining over 75 guests for meals, allowing them to bring only salads and desserts. Her friend Dalia Loloi concurs. “Her Persian food skills and overall cooking skills are crazy. She makes every kind of cuisine. But when it comes to salads and desserts, she’s like, guys, you make all of that.” And besides for challah, she doesn’t bake. As an intuitive cook who measures ingredients by dashes and handfuls, she says the math-like precision of baking is “not my jam.”

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Charlene shares how "the Aminoff love language is one thousand percent food."

Lemon Chicken Shish Kabobs Serves: 6

These are my kids’ favorite kabobs and I love making it on skewers (a favorite for Persian cuisine!). Alternatively, for a quick wintertime dinner, it comes out great roasted in the oven. Either way, it is the ultimate comfort food dish in our house. Feel free to thread peppers and/or onions onto the skewers with the chicken. ½ ¼ 3 2 1 1 1 1 1 2

cup lemon juice cup vegetable oil, plus more for grilling cubes frozen parsley cubes (such as Dorot), defrosted tablespoons Sadaf chicken kabob seasoning tablespoon chicken soup mix tablespoon turmeric teaspoon lemon pepper teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon sumac pounds chicken breast, cubed

1. Mix lemon juice, olive oil and spices; add chicken and let marinate in the fridge overnight. 2. Heat a grill pan or outdoor grill over medium-high and brush with the oil. Thread chicken onto metal or bamboo skewers and reserve marinade for brushing. 3. Grill skewers for about 5 minutes per side, rushing with reserved marinade before flipping. Alternatively, transfer chicken to a baking dish or parchment-lined baking sheet and cook in a 350°F oven, covered, for 2 hours. Uncover and cook for another 10-15 minutes.

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The Aminoffs express love and kindness through food. “We have two huge refrigerators, a freezer chest and a spare fridge in the house, which are all packed because she’s a real Jewish mama,” Jonathan says. When the children prepare food for school, they take extra snacks for kids who might need it. “The Aminoff love language is one thousand percent food,” Charlene adds. Charlene wants you to know that she’s not intimidating: “I might look like a diva, but I'm actually the chillest person in the world. Come up to me, say hi.” It makes her happy to hear that she has touched someone’s life in any way. Her assistant Shayna Chamish, says, “she’s willing to get down and dirty” and is “fearless. She kills the spider with her bare hands while the women in the showroom are hopping on chairs and screaming. She plunges the clogged toilet. She pumps her own gas.” Her husband explains: “As she becomes more popular, she gets more humble.” But Mom gets the last word. “I'm so proud of her. I'm so proud to be her mom.”

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Charlene’s Ultimate Challah Recipe Yield: 5-7 challahs

There is nothing that speaks to Jewish food more than challah. My secret ingredient is the spiritual significance that I bring to the process — it’s all about praying and thinking holy thoughts and the challah will turn out perfect every time! May all your tefillot be answered for the good. FOR THE CHALLAH DOUGH: 1 (5-pound) bag high-gluten flour 1¾ cups sugar 2 tablespoons kosher salt 4 large eggs 1 cup vegetable oil 3 tablespoons active dry yeast 4 cups warm water FOR THE TOPPING: 1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water Toppings of choice

1. Mix yeast, water and sugar in a bowl; set aside for 10-15 minutes, until proofed and bubbly. 2. Add oil and eggs; mix to incorporate. Add flour and mix, then add salt and mix. 3. Knead until completely incorporated, 7-10 minutes, until dough comes together. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rise in a warm, dark place for 1 hour. Punch down dough and let rise for another hour. 4. Perform the mitzvah of challah separation by ripping off a piece and reciting the blessing; wrap up the portion of dough and cook/burn. 5. Braid as desired, then cover with a towel and set aside to rise for 45 minutes. 6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush challahs with egg wash and top with toppings of choice. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until golden.

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rowing up as the granddaughter of Polish and Russian Holocaust survivors, I grew up in a melting pot of European culture that was created when my grandparents mixed and mingled with many Hungarians. At some point, there must have been an exchange of recipes because so many of the dishes I grew up eating (goulash, paprikash, dobosh cake) were actually Hungarian in origin. More than the food itself, the attitude and approach to both cooking and eating influence my cooking today. I love food that is hearty and rooted in simple ingredients, and Hungarian cuisine is just that. It’s the kind of food that encourages big portions, but also good leftovers, which satisfies my Jewish mother syndrome. It highlights one of the simplest spices — paprika — in a genuine, celebratory way. It’s the ultimate comfort food, and I think that’s the reason my grandparents and other survivors adopted Hungarian cuisine — it spoke to their immense gratitude to never have to be hungry again. FEBRUARY 2023

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Chicken Paprikash with Nokedli Serves: 4

Chicken paprikash classically gets its rich and creamy flavor from sour cream, a standard topper in so many European dishes. Here, coconut cream replaces the sour cream for an interesting twist on an old favorite, which is otherwise made of ingredients you probably already have in your pantry. Serve on top of homemade nokedli, rustic Hungarian noodles/dumplings, or cooked wide egg noodles.

½ 4 2 ¼ 3 3 3 1 ½

cup oil, divided chicken legs teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper large onions, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced tablespoons sweet paprika (15-ounce) can crushed tomatoes cup coconut cream Nokedli (recipe follows), for serving

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat ¼ cup oil in a Dutch oven or oven-safe braiser over medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper, then sear, skin side down, for 8-10 minutes, until golden brown; transfer chicken to a plate.

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2. Add remaining ¼ cup oil, onions, garlic and sweet paprika to the pot; sauté until browned and softened, about 10 minutes. 3. Add crushed tomatoes and bring to a boil. Add coconut cream and stir.

Nokedli Serves: 4

Nokedli are Hungary’s version of an egg dumpling, similar to the German spaetzle. It’s typically served alongside soups, stews and other mains. If you make these, you can officially say you’ve made homemade pasta! NOTE: The technique is simpler than it sounds. Alternatively, use a spaetzle maker or colander (not fine-mesh) to pass the batter through in small pieces. Mix 2 cups all-purpose flour, 4 eggs, ¼ cup water, 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt until combined; the dough should be thicker than pancake batter, but thinner than bread dough. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to reach desired consistency. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Spread batter on a cutting board. Hold the board over the boiling water and, with a small spoon, scrape small amounts of dough directly into the boiling water, dipping the spoon into the boiling water to make scraping easier. Once nokedli rise to the surface of the water, boil for another minute, then strain.

4. Nestle chicken back into the sauce and cook in the oven for 45 minutes. Serve over fresh nokedli.

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Heart.Works

A Bark as Good as Its Bite These homemade themed chocolate bars are the perfect addition to your mishloach manos! An endless variety of themed sprinkles, candyies, and homemade wrappings, their the cutest DIY chocolate bars to make, to give, and of course to receive.

im! Happy Pur

Purim Costume Themed Candy Bars By: Rachel Kor & Esther Ottensosern

Bucharian, humanitarian,

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egalitarian.

The Woman Uniting the Jewish Community

BY: SA R A H AU ST I N R EC I P E S BY: V I CTO R I A Z I R K I E V ictoria Zirkiev wears many hats: wife, mother, hostess, founder, advocate. All of these roles have one thing in common — the desire to unite the Jewish community. Every career, religious or political choice Victoria has made is to pursue the greater goal of bringing together the Jewish people. Born in Uzbekistan, Victoria’s approach to food and hospitality was very much shaped by those times in the kitchen with her mother before she came to the United States. Uzbekistan is home to Bucharian Jews who emigrated from Persia and the Middle East. Bucharian cuisine is one that merges Central Asian cooking with that of Eastern Europe. Culturally, there is a large focus on community, family gatherings and spirited celebrations. A Bucharian celebration is known to go on for hours with unimaginable amounts of food to feast on. This is the vibe at Victoria’s home; it is welcoming and the food is plentiful. Victoria’s cooking is heavily influenced by her Bucharian roots, but she also incorporates other cuisines like Moroccan and Ashkenzi to appeal to the wide range of people (and palates) that she entertains

(check out the Fleishigs app for her pastrami flatbread recipe from issue #21.) Due to the nature of her work, the Zirkiev household is always full of guests, which means the kitchen is always busy. Victoria is the CEO of Hoshen Productions, a record label that manages, produces and books Jewish musicians such as Gad Elbaz, Tal Vaknin and Nissim Black. As the first Jewish woman in this role, she wants to show today’s youth that Jewish, “kosher” music can be just as fun and cool as the music you would hear on the radio. She is the president of Chazaq’s women’s division (a Jewish educational organization that offers a variety of programming), where she is responsible for all events and activities in the New York area. She is also involved in local politics to be a voice for the Jewish people in America and Israel, even sitting on NYC Mayor Eric Adams’ transition team. Once again, the theme of striving to inspire and unify the Jewish community is apparent in the causes Victoria chooses to champion. Most recently, Victoria was inspired to spread awareness on refraining from evil speech from simple bracelets gifted to her by Mayesz, a Hasidic rapper who she represents. The bracelets were inscripted with the words, “lashon hara, don’t speak to me” in Hebrew. Victoria worked with the Israeli movement’s mastermind, David Halpern, to bring Lashon Hara USA to America. In addition to all of the work she does outside the home to bring unity to the Jewish community, for Victoria, food has always held the power to bring people together inside her own home as well. And while she does cook a lot of food she learned from home, it is with a few convenient shortcuts necessary to get things done. As a busy wife, mother, businesswoman and advocate, Victoria Zirkiev’s metaphorical table is carried throughout every aspect of her life in her purpose to unite the entire Jewish people — whether it’s at her actual table laden in food or her conference table at a Hoshen Productions meeting.

SARAH AUSTIN is a senior at Cornell University studying Hotel Administration and minoring in Viticulture & Enology and Jewish Studies. In between her studies, she writes and edits for Ground Level and Creme de Cornell, two on-campus publications. FEBRUARY 2023

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Samsa Serves: 10

A samsa is a light Russian pastry, similar to an Ashkenazi knish, that is filled with lamb, beef or chicken. They were the first traditional dish Zirkiev learned to make in the kitchen with her mother and hold a special place in her heart for that reason. They are a great dish for kids and adults alike, and similar to the plov and stuffed vegetables, you can play with the spices and fillings to fit your needs. There are even traditional vegetarian recipes using cheese, potato or pumpkin. NOTE: You can also boneless chicken thighs or breasts for this recipe. 1 2 1 1 1 1 1

pound boneless chuck, diced into ¼-inch pieces onions, finely diced tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander (12-ounce) package puff pastry squares (such as Mazor’s) egg, beaten Toasted sesame seeds, for topping Tomato Dip (recipe follows), for serving

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Mix meat, onions and spices until just incorporated. 2. Place 2-3 tablespoons of mixture into the center of each puff pastry square. Fold over into triangles and pinch edges to seal. 3. Arrange samsas on a parchmentlined baking sheet. Brush with egg and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden.

Tomato Dip Mix 1 cup marinara sauce, 1 diced tomato (optional), 3-4 minced garlic cloves, ¼ bunch fresh cilantro and kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

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Dolma Serves: 8-12

While traditionally this stuffed vegetable dish is made in a pot, my recipe utilizes the oven. The flavors are easy to play with and can be changed depending on the season, such as a sweeter filling for Rosh Hashana. You can use any variation of the vegetables below. The dried yellow sour plums are a specialty item that can be found at Russian markets, some Asian markets or on Amazon. If you can’t find them, use either standard prunes or more Turkish apricots with a squeeze of lemon. However, if you can find them, it is well worth the tangy, sweet-and-sour flavor they impart.

FOR THE SAUCE: 1 (16-ounce) can diced tomatoes 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce 2 teaspoons onion soup mix or kosher salt 8 dried Turkish apricots 8 dried yellow sour plums (see head note) or prunes FOR THE MEAT FILLING: 2 zucchini 1-1½ pounds ground beef ½ cup water 1 onion, grated ½ cup uncooked basmati rice ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley ½ (8-ounce) can chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sweet paprika FOR THE VEGETABLES: Reserved zucchini boats 4 plum tomatoes 8-10 mini sweet peppers 1 (16-ounce) jar grape leaves 1 small green cabbage

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1. Preheat oven to 375°F. For the sauce, mix tomatoes, chickpeas, tomato sauce, onion soup mix, apricots and dried plums in a 9x13inch baking dish; set aside. 2. For the filling, cut zucchini in half lengthwise. Remove and dice core; set exterior aside for stuffing. Mix diced zucchini with remaining filling ingredients until incorporated; set aside. 3. For the stuffed vegetables, cut off the very tops of the tomatoes and scoop out and discard the centers. Slice tops off peppers and discard seeds. 4. Gently unroll grape leaves from the jar and lay flat on a clean surface. 5. Place head of cabbage in a pot of boiling water and submerge until leaves start falling off, about 20 minutes, then drain. Once cool enough to handle, gently separate leaves. Remove the tough core off the leaves. 6. Fill zucchini, tomato and pepper shells, cabbage and grape leaves with meat mixture. Place vegetables in the baking dish. Roll grape leaves and cabbage and place seam-side down into the sauce. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 2 hours.

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Plov Serves: 8

Plov is a celebratory rice dish typically served at a large gathering. It typifies Bucharian cuisine and reminds her fondly of her childhood, family gettogethers, and learning how to use and play with the different flavors and spices to suit everyone’s palettes. ½ cup oil 2½-3 pounds lamb or beef stew, cut into 1½-inch pieces and patted dry 2 onions, finely chopped 3 large carrots, julienned 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 2 head garlic, cut at the base to expose the cloves Boiling water, to cover 2 cups medium- or long-grain rice Tomato Onion Salad (recipe follows) or pickled vegetables, for serving 1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. Sear meat for 3-4 minutes on both sides, until browned and cooked through. 2. Lower heat to medium, add onions and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add carrots, spices and 1 teaspoon salt; sauté for another 5 minutes. 3. Add chickpeas and garlic heads. Add boiling water just to cover the meat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, covered, for 40-45 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, rinse rice in a fine mesh sieve until the water runs clear. Transfer to a bowl with 1 tablespoon salt and just enough boiling water to cover; set aside for 30 minutes. Drain rice and rinse with cold water. 5. Remove garlic heads from the pot and set aside. Add rice to the pot, making sure to distribute it evenly, but do not stir it in. Sprinkle remaining 1 tablespoon salt over the rice. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and cook, uncovered, until most of the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes. 6. Once most of the water is absorbed, carefully spoon the rice into the center to create a dome. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke 5-6 holes throughout the dome of rice. Return garlic heads to the pot. Lower heat to low and steam, covered, for 40-45 minutes. Serve with tomato salad or pickled vegetables. 58

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Tomato Onion Salad This simple tomato salad is traditionally served with plov. Slice 2 tomatoes into wedges. Mix with ½ sliced white onion, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, a drizzle of white vinegar (optional), 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

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STAINLESS IN TE RIORS A stainless steel interior provides incredible durability, maintains a uniform temperature and is bacteria resistant.

Column Confidential What are columns? They are all-refrigerator, all-freezer or wine preservation towers that can be installed together or separately. How do they benefit the homeowner? Columns can be mixed and matched based on design, space and capacity needs for fresh and frozen foods as well as wine. Why are columns so popular with wine lovers? Columns allow wine lovers to proudly display their bottles in a custom arrangement. Why are columns recommended for small spaces? Delivering a large refrigerator/freezer to a small space can be challenging. Because columns ship separately and install either together or apart—depending on your design—they provide an elegant and efficient solution.

AIR F ILTRATION Air purification filters remove the ethylene gas released by expiring foods to keep ingredients fresher and longer lasting.

CONNE CTIVITY Smart refrigerators do more than keep food cold, they allow you to stay connected via your smartphone or home automation device.

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smart design Pioneering technology and thoughtful engineering make today’s luxury refrigerators ingenious, economical and environmentally friendly.

First introduced to the consumer market in 1927, the refrigerator went on to become the heart of the family kitchen over the next century. But it wasn’t until recently that this all-important appliance began its amazing evolution from a latter-day icebox to a resourceful and innovative tool that assists us in our quest to live better, eat healthier and lead more sustainable lives. Thanks to advanced engineering, today’s luxury refrigerators and freezers offer a myriad functions such as dual refrigeration, humidity and climate control and air filtration systems that reduce food waste by creating ideal conditions for preserving the shelf-life and flavors of specific foods. There are also water filtration systems that provide pure drinking water and crystal clear ice, as well as Energy Star-rated models that go above and beyond federally mandated standards to help save energy and money. Meanwhile, the latest smart technology has turned the family fridge into a hightech helper and information hub. Able to communicate with our phones, tablets and home automation devices, refrigerators equipped with smart systems allows us to instantly control temperature, monitor performance and diagnostics, keep an eye on the freshness and integrity of our food, and audit our inventory so that we can plan meals and order what we want and need, all with the touch of a button.

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THE GREEN LIGHT From saving energy and preserving food to promoting health and wellness, these groundbreaking features are green game changers.

tech talk Refrigerators that incorporate smart technology make it possible to instantly control a number of functions and features through an app on your phone, tablet or other device.

Designer/LED lighting provides beautiful, luminous, energy-efficient light in both the refrigerator and the freezer.

Internal water dispensers provide access to fresh, filtered water while blending seamlessly into the design. Some models feature autofill pitchers, so transporting water to the table is a breeze. And hot water features supply the precise amount and temperature required for a recipe or a cup of tea without having to turn on the range.

Electronic temperature controls maintain the right temperature and humidity levels to maximize energy efficiency and preserve food.

Climate-controlled bins allow for more specific temperature and humidity control that is tailored to foodstuffs stored in each compartment.

Wi-Fi capabilities mean that features like temperature and humidity control and diagnostic issues can be handled remotely, saving both energy and perishables.

Special preservation systems that protect and preserve perishable foods for up to three times longer than standard units can be found in a number of luxury models.

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The Most In-Demand: These smart assets include controls that make it possible to produce more ice; remotely adjust the temperature in your refrigerator and freezer; take advantage of vacation mode’s substantial energy savings; respond to push notification warnings when a door is left open; and utilize remote diagnostics features that identify when a filter needs to be changed or of a potential service issue.

The Bells and Whistles: These high-tech enhancements include features that allow you to sync your calendar with your smart fridge; have a remote look inside when planning menus, taking inventory or compiling grocery lists. And for remodelers with multiple residences, smart refrigerators offer true peace of mind— especially for wine collectors seeking long-term storage of their favorite vintages.

STAR QUALITY To earn the ENERGY STAR® title, a refrigerator or freezer must use a minimum of 10-percent less energy than the federally-mandated standards. To achieve this, ENERGY STAR®-certified units contain high-efficiency compressors that create less heat and are more energy efficient, enhanced insulation that retains cold and preserves food, tightly sealed gaskets that keep cold air in and warm air out, and temperature and defrost mechanisms that ensure maximum operating performance.

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cool factor Refrigeration with refined design and superlative purpose is the key to the good life.

Over the last few years, chef-worthy kitchens, purpose-driven entertainment spaces, autonomous home offices and in-law suites, and seamless indooroutdoor environments have taken a leading role in home design. Whether one is preparing a gourmet family meal; hosting an at-home wine tasting; outfitting a work or guest space; or welcoming friends to relax and dine on the porch or patio, having the right refrigeration is an important element to achieving an exceptional lifestyle and creating a home that is a true oasis. Luckily for today’s homeowners, there is a wide-range of luxury makes and models to suit every specific space and particular refrigeration need. And there are also a number of customizable features that provide tailor-made refrigeration for every taste and desire. Whether you’re looking to take advantage of the mix-and-match freedom of column refrigerators and freezers, display a perfectly preserved wine collection, or enjoy a favorite vintage, beer or spirits on tap—the possibilities are endless. Thinking beyond the kitchen and incorporating refrigerators with the latest essentials throughout the home makes hosting a breeze and sets the scene for effortless entertaining.

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the wine list Five things to consider about wine refrigeration. 1. Most wine refrigerators have one or two temperature zones, while taller wine columns can have up to three. Finding a unit with the right number of zones is the key to keeping your reds, whites, roses and sparkling wines at their optimal temperature.

2. Because sunlight can cause wine to age prematurely, it is best to purchase a wine refrigerator with UV-protected glass.

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3. Storing wine at a consistent temperature is another way to stop premature aging, so look for models with reliable temperature controls.

5. Vibration can negatively affect the tannins in wine, so consider models that offer the greatest stability.

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S M A L L , B UT M I GHTY Under-counter refrigerators bring big function to small spaces. While counter-depth and column refrigerators are optimal in a small kitchen, compact condo or snug cottage, under-counter units can be the perfect choice for a wet bar, guest house, in-law suite or home office. Not only do they free up space in the main refrigerator, but they allow

guests easy access to snacks, cool drinks and ice. And the fact that under-counter refrigerators, wine coolers, ice makers and drawer units combine forward-thinking features with low-key design means that they make a big impact while conserving space and preserving the view.

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BREAKING BREAD

Jewish Soul Food is Food for the Soul ‫ולחם לבב אנוש יסעד‬ “And bread sustains the hearts of man” (Tehillim, 104:15)

earts — in plural, our sages teach that this refers to our physical and spiritual selves, both of which are equally sustained and comforted by bread. When it comes to Jewish comfort foods, challah is one that does double duty. It is truly the ultimate soul food that satisfies the body, is a balm for the soul and nourishes for generations. When you go back in time and think of a cold winter night, the family gathered around the table, which memories come to mind? Somehow, it’s always the food. The food that comforts, that gathers, that takes up lodging in our minds and lasts in our memory for generations longer than the day it was served. Classic challah as we know it — those sweet braided loaves, topped with the crunch of poppy or sesame — is one of those foods that lives in our heart. Waking up to the smell

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of a freshly baked challah in the home on a Friday morning, the crackle of the crust being broken into on Friday night, the pillowy stretchiness of that first bite, they all become ingredients in the recipe of our life story. In my family growing up, it was strictly bakery challah, but even that brought its own traditions and memories. My brother and I had a little Friday night ritual where we would pull off the “belly button” of a bulkelah (challah roll) and stuff the cavity with gefilte fish, coleslaw and maybe a bit of horseradish for good measure. We’d pop the “belly button” back on and eat it as a stuffed sandwich. It may sound gross to you, but somehow very few things in life have ever tasted as good as that Friday night sandwich! Two of my sons had their own challah ritual growing up. However many guests we might

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BREAKING BREAD

have had that week around the table, they always made sure to sit next to each other because they had a challah “system.” The older one liked the middle chewy part of the challah and the younger one preferred the crusts; in this way, none of the challah went to waste — the younger one pulled off the crusts for himself and handed all the middles to the older one. Do you have challah memories of your own? What does the sight, smell and taste of a challah evoke in you? Have you made new challah traditions in your family? My new cookbook, The Kids Book of Challah, is all about taking this ultimate soul food — challah — and having a grand adventure with it. It’s about getting the kids off those ubiquitous screens and into the kitchen with you to create some new memories of their own. When you give kids a piece of challah dough, something magical invariably happens. They become absorbed in the experience, their creativity awakens with the feel of the dough in their fingers and they get excited about all the possibilities that this little piece of dough holds. That’s what I’ve tried to channel in this volume. That sense of wonder and possibility and the excitement of taking

something as simple as a piece of unbaked dough and forming it into a creation all your own. There are so many “grabs” for our attention these days — we feel ourselves pulled in countless directions and it seems so hard to just stop and be present. Baking challah forces us to stay still for a bit, get all of ourselves involved for the moment in the creation of this loaf, be present to the process in all its stages, remember that this is for a higher purpose and to recognize the Source of this bread and indeed all of our gifts. This is the gift of challah; sharing it with our children pays the gift forward for generations to come. So grab a copy of The Kids Book of Challah, put on an apron and some good music and invite your family to join you in the kitchen for a challah adventure. The challah will not last long (I can guarantee), but the memories of comfort and spiritual nourishment will be forever. Here are a few recipes from my new cookbook, both of them are reimagined takes on old standbys of challah meets comfort food, namely: French toast and challah kugel! Happy challah baking from my kitchen to your hearts with love!

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Cinnamon Streusel Crunch Pudding Serves 12-15 / Dairy or Pareve

Not a pudding in the American sense, a pudding as in the British sense, which is really a challah kugel or cake. Every time a recipe calls for a crunchy topping, I automatically double the topping. I'm a firm believer in a 2:1 crunch ratio! Of course, if I'm the one actually writing the recipe, you know there will already be plenty of crunch! This recipe is going to provide you with all the crunchy satisfaction you desire — creamy on the bottom, crunchy on the top, hot and oozing cinnamony goodness. Topped with a scoop of ice cream, of course! Enjoy! INGREDIENTS: 1 large loaf challah 2 cups whole milk or full-fat coconut milk 2 cups heavy cream or non-dairy substitute 2 cups sugar 8 whole eggs 2 Tbsp cinnamon 1 Tbsp vanilla extract TOPPING: 4 Tbsp (½ stick) butter or non-dairy butter substitute, softened 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar ½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans, optional ⅓ cup flour 2 tsp cinnamon Ice cream or whipped cream, for serving INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Cut the challah into 1-inch cubes; place in a large mixing bowl. 2. Whisk the milk, cream, sugar, eggs, cinnamon, and vanilla in a medium mixing bowl. Pour the milk mixture over the challah; let challah soak for at least 30 minutes or cover and refrigerate overnight. 3. While the challah is soaking, let's make the streusel. Mix the topping ingredients in a medium bowl, using your fingers or a pastry cutter, until the consistency is like wet sand.

Recipes reprinted with permission from The Kids Book of Challah by Rochie Pinson; . Photography by Monica Pinto; kids' photography by Schneur Menaker

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4. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a 9x13inch baking dish with baking spray or butter. Pour in the soaked challah, draining out any of the excess custard. 5. Add the streusel over the challah in an even layer. Bake, uncovered, for 50-60 minutes, until the center is firm and set. Serve warm with ice cream or whipped cream.

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Stuffed French Toast: PB&J or Fluffernutter Serves 8 / Dairy or Pareve

What’s better than French toast? Stuffed French toast! Oozing with sticky, sweet peanut butter and kelly, or even more sticky marshmallow cream and peanut butter combo, stuffed French toast is awesome! Each slice is really big, and can easily serve two hungry kids! INGREDIENTS: 4 eggs ½ cup milk ¼ cup heavy cream or non-dairy substitute 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp cinnamon 1 large challah Peanut butter Jelly or marshmallow cream 1 stick (½ cup) butter, non-dairy butter substitute, or oil, for frying INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Whisk the eggs, milk, cream, vanilla, and cinnamon in a large bowl; set aside. 2. Cut the challah into four very thick slices, about 3½-inch thick. Carefully cut into the center of each slice to create a pocket (kind of like a pita), being sure not to go all the way through. 3. Using a spreader or spoon, spread peanut butter on one side of the inside of the pocket, and spread either jelly or marshmallow cream on the other side. 4. Heat 1 tablespoon butter or oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add stuffed challah to the pan, and allow to toast slightly on both sides. 5. Using tongs, carefully transfer the toasted stuffed challah to the egg mixture, making sure to soak both sides. Heat another 1 tablespoon butter or oil in the skillet, and fry stuffed challah on both sides until golden brown. Repeat with remaining stuffed challah and egg mixture. Cut diagonally, and enjoy!

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PH : SH O R I O O TO F R L A G RA KL D: JE PH EIN W Y BY IS :S H CH CO N EU M R FO M EN RT AK ER

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NEW JEWISH COMFORTS

love adding modern spins to classic comfort foods that I grew up with. This can be as simple as swapping a vegetable out for a “newer” or more trendier choice and incorporating new techniques and ingredients into a recipe (like the kale in the noodle kugel). Jewish comfort food has evolved so much over the past few decades, taking influences from wherever you are in the world. While to some, Jewish comfort food means kugel and their Bubby’s braised brisket, to others it could mean sushi and mac and cheese, whether these dishes evoke specific family memories.

Kale Noodle Kugel Serves: 8

Noodle kugel is the quintessential classic on the Ashkenazi Shabbos table, with every family having their own version. Aside from the sweet kugel with raisins that my grandparents used to make, my Zaidy’s savory salt-and-pepper kugel was always my favorite. I elevated it by adding kale, a modern update that adds color and nutrients to the classic that otherwise doesn’t need much changing. 1 ¾ 3 1½ 1 1 8 ½

(12-ounce) bag Manischewitz wide egg noodles cup vegetable oil, divided Spanish onions, thinly sliced tablespoons teaspoons kosher salt, divided bunch kale, stemmed and roughly chopped teaspoon freshly ground black pepper large eggs cup soy milk

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain, then toss with 1 tablespoon oil; set aside until ready to use. 2. Heat ½ cup oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and 1 tablespoon kosher salt; sauté for 30 minutes, until onions soften and develop a light golden color. 3. Add kale, pepper and remaining ½ tablespoon kosher salt; sauté for another 5-8 minutes, until slightly wilted but still bright green. Transfer to the bowl with the noodles. 4. Whisk eggs and soy milk, then pour into the noodlekale mixture; add remaining 3 tablespoons oil and mix to incorporate. 5. Pour into a 9-inch square baking dish. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook for another 15-18 minutes, until fully set and golden brown.

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Kale, yeah! FEBRUARY 2023

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Mac and “Cheese” Serves: 8

In the Southern United States, no meal can go without mac and cheese. In recent years, kosher restaurants (like Graze in Cedarhurst, NY) have used vegan ingredients to bring these dairy classics to the meat table. It also happens to be packed with protein from the cashews and vitamins from the nutritional yeast and sweet potatoes. The sauce is versatile and can be used for nachos or over roasted vegetables. Don’t skip on the cracker crumble — it elevates this dish entirely. 1 1

cup roasted, salted cashews small sweet potato, steamed or roasted (about ½ cup mashed) ½ cup nutritional yeast 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste ½-1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika or cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon garlic powder 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1-1½ cups water, divided 1 pound cavatappi or rotini pasta, cooked al dente according to package directions Pastrami Cracker Crumble (recipe follows) 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Blend cashews, sweet potato, nutritional yeast, salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, lemon juice and 1 cup water. Slowly add more water, as needed. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. 2. Mix sauce with cooked pasta. Top with cracker crumble and cook for 10-12 minutes, until golden. 3. Beef Bacon Cracker Crumble 4. There is nothing quite like the Jewish nostalgia of Snacker crackers (IYKYK) — the crispy, salty and (most importantly) Pareve version of the mainstream butter crackers. These crackers would accompany us on all family day trips and would make the best Shabbos morning breakfast with cream cheese or peanut butter. Our favorite way to use these crackers nowadays is for a savory crumble such as this one. 5. Heat 1 (6-ounce) package beef fry in a cold skillet over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Flip and cook for another 2 minutes, until crisp and golden. Transfer

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beef fry to a paper-towel lined plate. Add 1 sleeve crushed non-dairy butter crackers (such as Lieber’s Snackers) to the reserved bacon fat. Toast over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes. Finely chop cooked beef bacon and mix with 1 bunch minced fresh parsley and cracker crumbs.

Pastrami Cracker Crumble There is nothing quite like the Jewish nostalgia of Snacker crackers (IYKYK) — the crispy, salty and (most importantly) Pareve version of the mainstream butter crackers. These crackers would accompany us on all family day trips and would make the best Shabbos morning breakfast with cream cheese or

peanut butter. Our favorite way to use these crackers nowadays is for a savory crumble such as this one. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add 1 (6-ounce) package pastrami and cook for 3-4 minutes. Flip and cook for another 2 minutes, until crisp and golden. Transfer pastrami to a paper-towel lined plate. Add 1 sleeve crushed non-dairy butter crackers (such as Lieber's Snackers) to the reserved pastrami drippings. Toast over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown. Finely chop cooked pastrami and mix with 1 bunch minced fresh parsley and fried cracker crumbs.

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NEW JEWISH COMFORTS

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Mosaic Sushi Salad Serves: 8

Sushi salad has become a Shabbos staple in Jewish households all over the world. Serving it mosaic-style is a fun, new approach. You can serve it family-style or, if you are one to “patchke,” make individual plates as a memorable starter course. The ideas listed below are just inspiration; feel free to use any and all ingredients you have on hand to create your own mosaic. NOTE: One of my favorite supermarket shortcuts is buying prepared sushi rice from the sushi counter. Most sushi shops will accommodate this request as well. 3 2 1 1 8 8 2 1

cups prepared sushi rice (see head note) Spicy Mayo (recipe follows) radishes, thinly sliced Persian cucumber, thinly sliced small watermelon radish, thinly sliced Handful sugar snap peas, halved Handful enoki mushrooms thin slices sushi-grade tuna thin slices sushi-grade salmon tablespoons salmon caviar Radish sprouts avocado, thinly sliced

1. Grease an 8x8-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray. Top with an 8x8-inch piece of parchment paper. 2. Add sushi rice and flatten with a spatula, small bench scraper or the bottom of a measuring cup. Using a knife or bench scraper, score the sushi rice to create 9, 12 or 16 equal portions (either 3x3, 4x3 or 4x4) depending on how many toppings you want to use. 3. Drizzle spicy mayo over the rice. Top each portion with toppings of choice.

Spicy Mayo Yield: 1½ cups

Mix 1 cup mayonnaise, 2-4 tablespoons Sriracha, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons honey and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil.

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Miso-Braised Brisket BY: CHAYA RAPPOPORT

I love a traditional brisket with red wine and lots of onions, but when I want a punchier update on the classic, I make this one. Born of an almost empty tub of miso that was lingering in my fridge, this recipe came together while I was rushing to get a brisket in the oven for my Friday night meal. It follows all the usual steps, but is revitalized with ingredients like shallots, ginger, dried red chilis, star anise, brown sugar, miso and coconut aminos, which add complex flavor. The brisket is fall-apart tender thanks to a second cut piece and a long, slow cook time. Don’t forget to top it with plenty of the dried shiitake mushrooms, which flavor the sauce and turn plump and juicy during cooking.

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Miso-Braised Brisket Serves: 8

1 2 1 3 6 4 2 ½ ½ 3 3 2 ½ ½ 6 3-4 3-4 2 6

By: Chaya Rappoport

(3-4 pound) second cut brisket, at room temperature teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons olive oil, divided shallots, peeled and thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced teaspoons fresh ginger, minced teaspoon ground coriander cup warm water tablespoons dark miso tablespoons dark brown sugar tablespoons coconut aminos or tamari teaspoon rice vinegar teaspoon red pepper flakes cups chicken or beef broth, plus more as needed whole star anise pods dried red chilis bay leaves ounces dried shiitake mushrooms Cooked white rice, for serving Steamed broccoli or bok choy, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Pat brisket dry and season on both sides with salt and pepper. 2. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Sear brisket for 7-9 minutes per side, until browned. Transfer brisket to a plate. 3. Heat remaining tablespoon olive oil in the pot over medium heat. Add shallots and sauté until softened and slightly caramelized, scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and coriander; sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes. 4. In a small bowl, whisk water, miso, brown sugar, coconut aminos, rice vinegar and red pepper flakes. Add to the pot and stir. Bring to a boil and let reduce for 2-4 minutes. 5. Add broth, star anise, dried red chilis, bay leaves and dried mushrooms. Nestle brisket back into the pot (it should be mostly covered by liquid; if it isn't, add more broth just to cover). 6. Cover and cook in the oven for 4 hours, until fork tender. 7. Let cool, then transfer brisket to a cutting board. Reduce the remaining liquid over high heat for 8-10 minutes, until slightly thickened and spoonable. Slice and serve with gravy, steamed white rice and steamed broccoli.

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from retail to BY: D E VO R A H BAC K M A N

How one chef drove his passion in an out-of-thebox environment during a global pandemic BY: D E VO R A H BAC K M A N R EC I P E S BY: A R I R AS K I N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R

ri Raskin’s first pop-up restaurant was an illegal one. He was in yeshiva, surreptitiously watching Andrew Zimmern and Anthony Bourdain shows between classes and cooking Shabbat meals for friends on his dorm burner. He dreamed of opening a restaurant of his own one day. “One night we gave out menus during evening classes and, without anyone knowing, opened a restaurant out of the yeshiva kitchen. We sold burgers and sandwiches. It was a one-time thing, but it was a big hit,” he recalls. The restaurant dreams were shelved while Raskin grew up, got married, started a family near his

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in-laws’ Chabad House in Montreal, Canada and started working fulltime for Valco Baby, an upscale stroller brand. Then, 2020 arrived. “When COVID started, I had an idea to keep people involved at the Chabad House, while at the same time providing the community with some tasty, thoughtful food,” Raskin says. He approached his wife’s parents, Rabbi Moshe and Dina Krasnjanski of Chabad of the Town of Mont Royal, with an idea. He had a passion for cooking and they had a commercial kitchen standing empty. It was the perfect time to try something new — a monthly-ish takeout-only “supper club” called TMR Supper Club, with a new menu every time. “To our astonishment, it blew up like crazy,” Raskin recalls. “People from all walks of life were ordering and requesting more and more pop ups.” Over time, the operation expanded, offering seating and even expanding into catering. Given this response, does he see

restaurant

PROFILE

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PROFILE

Malawach Shawarma Burrito, pg. 92

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Dressed Up Ramen Serves: 4

Ari's love of food developed from his upbringing in Australia at the heels of his mother in a food-centric house full of guests. himself opening a full-time restaurant? “Never say never,” Raskin laughs. He points out the demanding nature of the restaurant business and how the pop-up model circumvents some of the timing and supply issues traditional restaurants face. At the same time, running a pop-up poses its own challenges — Raskin has had to learn everything from menu pricing to time management on the fly and then start over again 88

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the following month. “Sourcing beef is probably the most difficult part,” he admits. “We have even had to get beef driven in from New York a few times.” But of course, it all comes down to the food! The most popular dish on the menu is the fried chicken sandwich, a perfect representation of Raskin’s thoughtful and casual approach. First, the chicken thighs are brined, then fried, mopped with a sweet jalapeño glaze and piled on a brioche-style bun with chipotle mayo and a crisp cilantro-spiked slaw. And although the menu changes every time, regulars have come to expect Southern-style smokehouse fare, like dino ribs, chili and a smoked half chicken with Alabama white sauce. He is also known for his Asian cuisine. “Once you start cooking Asian food, you kind of get hooked,” Raskin says. He spends hours sourcing ingredients and honing his techniques — mostly from YouTube. He’s especially proud of his dumpling and noodle dishes — plump beef dumplings doused in red chili oil and Chinese chives, chewy yaki udon noodles and spicy dandan noodles with mushrooms instead of the traditional pork. So what’s next for Ari Raskin and the pop up? “I think the main thing is to keep cooking and see where it takes us,” he says. 2023 will bring more pop up events, catering and demos. But for now, Raskin is focused on perfecting his next dish, combining his two favorite cooking styles. It’s going to be a perfectly slow-smoked lamb belly, glazed with hoisin sauce and served in a bao bun with daikon and carrot pickles and a Thai basil aioli. When he gets every element right, it’s going on the next pop up menu. For more info, follow @ariraskin on Instagram.

Store bought dried ramen is highly underrated — it’s super inexpensive and cooks in minutes, making it a great idea for a last minute dinner. ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ 1 1 1

1 4 1

cup soy sauce cup hoisin sauce black or rice vinegar cup sugar Dash of MSG (optional) onion, thinly sliced red bell pepper (or 2 jalapeños), thinly sliced (8-ounce) package cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced (3-ounce) packets instant ramen noodles, cooked according to package directions with seasoning packet (6-ounce) package beef fry, diced cloves garlic, crushed bunch scallions, chopped, greens and whites separated tablespoon toasted sesame oil, for serving

1. Mix soy sauce, hoisin sauce, vinegar, sugar and MSG (if desired); set aside. 2. Heat a drizzle of oil in a wok over high heat. Once hot, add onions and sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add peppers and sauté for another minute. Add mushrooms and sauté for another 2-3 minutes. Transfer vegetables to a bowl. 3. Add beef fry to the wok and cook over medium heat until fat renders. Once beef fry starts to brown, add garlic and scallion whites; sauté for another 2 minutes. Once fragrant, add the cooked ramen and cook for a few minutes. 4. Return sautéed vegetables to the pan and add the reserved sauce. Toss until noodles are fully coated. 5. To serve, garnish with scallion greens and a drizzle of toasted sesame oil.

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Onion Burger Serves: 4

3,This burger is an explosion of onion flavor that is well worth the effort. I recommend making all of the components (except for the onion rings) in advance and searing the burgers fresh to simplify the process. 1 1 ½ 1 2 4

pound ground beef teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon oil Roasted Scallion Aioli (recipe follows) Onion Jam (recipe follows) cups arugula Quick Pickled Red Onions (recipe follows) Crispy Onion Rings (recipe follows) onion rolls

Onion Jam Heat ⅓ cup oil in a pot over medium-high heat. Add 3 thinly sliced Vidalia onions, 1½ teaspoons kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; lower heat to medium and sauté until golden, about 30 minutes. Add ½ cup brown sugar and ½ cup red wine vinegar. Stir until brown sugar dissolves and add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the bottom of the pot gets too brown. Cook until deeply golden brown and caramelized.

1. Divide ground beef into 4 equal portions, then form into patties. Season with salt and pepper on both sides. 2. Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Sear patties for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown. Flip and cook for another 3-4 minutes. For a well-done burger, continue cooking in a 350℉ oven for another 3-5 minutes to finish cooking. 3. Spread scallion aioli on both sides of the bun. Top the bottom bun with onion jam, arugula, a burger patty, pickled onions and an onion ring. Cover with the top bun. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

Crispy Onion Rings Cut 2 onions into ½-inch rounds and separate into rings. Prepare a dredging station with 1 cup all-purpose flour in one bowl, 4 whisked eggs in a second bowl and 3 cups panko bread crumbs in a third bowl. Heat a few layers of oil in a pot over medium-high heat. Dredge onion rings and fry until golden. Transfer to a wire cooling rack to drain. 90

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Quick Pickled Red Onions Add 1 thinly sliced red onion to a jar with 1 cup vinegar, 1 teaspoon sugar and 1 teaspoon kosher salt; seal and shake to distribute. Let marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour before serving.

“It is hard to imagine a civilization without onions.” -Julia Child

Roasted Scallion Aioli Yield: 2 ½ cups

Place 1 bunch scallion whites (reserving the greens) on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon olive oil and season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Roast in a 450°F oven for 8 minutes. Transfer to a blender with 2 cups mayonnaise, ½ bunch fresh parsley, reserved scallion greens, ¼ cup vinegar and 4 garlic cloves; blend until smooth.

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Chicken Shawarma Serves: 6

The chicken can be marinated with the shawarma seasoning the day before and kept in the fridge overnight until ready to cook. Heat 1½ tablespoons oil in a skillet over high heat. Season 1 pound thinly sliced boneless, skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot) with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Sear chicken until browned on one side. Add 2 thinly sliced onions and 2 tablespoons Homemade Shawarma Seasoning (recipe follows); sauté until browned on the other side and cooked through.

Homemade Shawarma Seasoning Yield: 2 heaping tablespoons

Keep in mind that this seasoning doesn’t contain salt and pepper, which I like to add to taste according to what I’m making. Feel free to double or triple the batch to have on hand for whenever the shawarma mood strikes.

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Mix 2 teaspoons smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon cumin, 1 teaspoon turmeric, 1 teaspoon sumac, 1 teaspoon allspice and 1 teaspoon coriander. Store in an airtight container in the pantry.

Sumac Slaw Serves: 4-6

Mix 4-5 cups shredded green cabbage, 6-8 thinly sliced Israeli pickles, 1 thinly sliced red onion, 1 bunch chopped fresh parsley, ½ cup olive oil, the juice of 2 lemons and 1 tablespoon sumac. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

Basic Tahini Yield: 2½-3 cups

Blend 1½ cups cold water, 1 cup tahini paste, 2 garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon cumin until smooth. Season with kosher salt, to taste. Add more water, if necessary, to reach desired consistency.

Malawach Shawarma Burrito Serves: 4-6

Using malawach instead of a flour tortilla or laffa adds immense flavor and crunch to the otherwise classic Israeli comfort food sandwich. 4-6

rounds frozen malawach Chicken Shawarma (recipe follows) Sumac Slaw (recipe follows) Quick Tahini (recipe follows) Charif, optional (recipe follows)

1. Fry malawach according to package directions, until fluffy and golden. 2. Place a large square of foil over a cutting board or work surface. Place a round of malawach on foil. Top with some shawarma and sumac slaw. Drizzle with tahini and dollops of charif (if desired). Wrap up like a burrito, then cut in half. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

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Richness. Bottled. -

A WEALTH OF FLAVOR IN EVERY SIP.

DARK CHOCOLATE LIQUEUR — RICH & DEEP WHITE CHOCOLATE LIQUEUR — RICH & CREAMY COFFEE LIQUEUR — RICH & LUXURIOUS

IMPORTED BY MEDEK WINES AND SPIRITS, NY

L'CHAIM

ODEM M O U N TA I N FOREST WHITE, 2021 This is the entrylevel white from this charming boutique winery, which sits at the foot of Har Odem (Mt. Odem) in the Golan Heights of Israel. Har Odem’s estate vineyard is the famous Elrom at an altitude of 1,100 meters (approximately 3,600 feet) above sea level, regarded by many as Israel's best vineyard. A blend of Viognier and Chardonnay, it is medium-bodied with medium acidity and has aromas and flavors of peach, green apple and apricot. You’ll also detect hints of honeysuckle. It is exactly the kind of white wine I would have with a piece of overnight potato kugel.

RELAX, IT'S WINE TIME BY: GABRIEL GELLER

It’s always fun and enlightening to review the selection of wines that one might find in kosher restaurants. Offering only mevushal wines already narrows down the choice and allows me to focus on a variety of wines that I often find to be overlooked. I drink these wines at home often, with or without guests. There are people who ask me why I drink mevushal wines at home. The answer is simple yet still astonishing to some — these wines are excellent, delicious and just happen to be mevushal.

R A M O N C A R D O VA A L B A R I N O, 2 0 2 0 Other than port-style wines, I am not a believer in the concept of "seasonal wines," meaning rosé, white or sparkling wines should be enjoyed yearround, whatever the weather or day of the week. Of course, a delicious white like this one can and should be enjoyed poolside, but you will have just as much fun sipping it alongside a light meal of grilled chicken. Albarino is a grape variety prevalent in southeastern Spain and Portugal. It is rich in notes of lime, saline minerals and herbaceous aromas. At around $20 a bottle, it's also a great value.

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L'CHAIM

B I N YA M I N A C H O S E N YA H A L O M , 2 0 1 9 Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be fantastic, but everyone should also try other varieties and blends. While there is Cabernet Sauvignon in the Yahalom, there is also Syrah and Petit Verdot. This combination is the essence of what Israel can produce in terms of wines with a unique style. Petit Verdot and Syrah are varieties that do very well in the warm Israeli climate. Here you get a full-bodied and rich (yet not overly astringent) wine that is flavorful, with lots of very ripe black and red berries, plums, roasted herbs, toasted oak and spices. It is concentrated enough to handle a hearty stew or juicy burger.

PSÂGOT CABERNET FRANC 2021 Psâgot's winemaker Sam Soroka crafted a textbook Israeli Cabernet Franc, with a medium-bodied profile and classic notes of green bell pepper, blackberries and tobacco leaves. There are people who view a charcuterie board as something fancy. However, growing up in Europe, charcuterie was on the Shabbos table every week and often in my sandwiches when I went skiing with friends on Sunday. It was a normal (affordable!) snack that we enjoyed regularly. I truly see it as a comfort food, something to snack on while cozily reading a book or a magazine. This wine would go perfectly with a nice charcuterie platter.

HERZOG LINEAGE CHOREOGRAPH, 2020 This is a one-of-a-kind wine, a field blend of a dozen varieties that grow in the Herzog family's Prince Vineyard in Clarksburg, CA. There is Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Viognier and Petit Syrah, among many other grapes. The winemaking team at Herzog deserves a lot of credit for consistently putting out a wine that is not only balanced but tasty and interesting. It has earthy, herbaceous notes and hints of juicy black and blue fruits, cedar, vanilla, cloves and plums. Try it with some braised short ribs or brisket — a match made in heaven.

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Emerging Pesach Travel Trends

Exploring

View of the pools

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T H E O N -S I T E ACT I V I T I E S • SPA: The spa at The Inbal pampers

ver 120,000 Jews make an exodus to various hotels and home rentals to gather with family and friends in exotic, exciting, well-known vacation destinations. In recent years, most of Pesach travel has been concentrated and continues to hold steady within specific regions, such as the tri-state area, South Florida, Arizona and Mexico. Post-COVID travel has only increased, so new trends surrounding Pesach travel are emerging, most specifically towards Europe and Israel as prime Pesach destinations. One of the biggest attractions is those looking to get the most bang for their buck. No one is denying the high cost of Pesach travel, but for those who do it annually as their one big vacation or those who go together with family each year, Israel and Europe offer five-star experiences at a lower cost than traditional, comparable Pesach programs in the United States. For

A Seder night tablescape at The Inbal Hotel

example, The pricing for Pesach at The Inbal Hotel in the heart of Jerusalem could be almost half (sometimes more!) than a comparable hotel in the United States. In fact, The Inbal is already 70% occupied for this upcoming Pesach season, mostly with returning customers who are coming for a true five-star experience. The ambience of the hotel, the rooms, on-site activities and the quality of food are second to none. The dining offerings alone are a true culinary experience and combine Ashkenazi and Sephardi favorites with ample offerings. The Inbal is well known for offering elegant and luxurious comfort, combining a minimalistic yet warm approach to design that is felt throughout, whether enjoying breakfast in the dining room, sitting in the lobby or hanging outdoors in the courtyard.

guests with massage therapies, body treatments and facials delivered by their highly qualified and experienced therapists. With its holistic approach to the mind, body and spirit, the exclusive, fullservice spa uses only the best natural oils and eco-friendly products, including Ahava Dead Sea products and special treatments. Male and female therapists are available and personalized gift vouchers can be purchased for any of the spa’s treatments.

• KIDS CLUB: The Inbal’s Kids’

Club is a supervised activity center for kids and toddlers that is open during weekends, holidays and summer vacations. The playroom’s professional staff members run a variety of fun and exciting workshops and activities throughout the day. For teens, The Inbal runs activities during the holidays, with indoor games and an electronic entertainment center. The experienced staff members organize contests and tournaments with prizes and assorted surprises.

• POOL: The Inbal has a spectacular,

semi-Olympic heated lap pool and toddler pool. The sundeck is a treat all year round – uncovered throughout the summer and covered in the winter. Surrounded by a beautiful border of thick, green pine, the pool is a perfect hide-away in the center of Jerusalem.

• CONCIERGE: The concierge

02: The restaurant at The Inbal specializes in defining and reinventing Jerusalem cuisine and invites

staff at the Inbal is delighted to offer you their assistance, providing professional advice and “inside information” about how to get the most out of the hotel and how to maximize your Jerusalem experience. With their guidance regarding the best restaurants, entertainment spots and other activities and events, guests at The Inbal fully enjoy the many cultural, historic and religious sites Jerusalem has to offer.

you to enjoy a perfect meat dinner cooked by Chef Nimrod Norman. The luxurious restaurant is named after the dialing area code of Jerusalem – 02 – and offers personalized dishes, quality meats and spectacular desserts that stay true to local ingredients in their originality.

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I T’S A W H O L E N E W WO R L D I N RO C K L A N D BY: C H A N A Z . W E I SS R EC I P E S BY: C H E F DA N I E L A B I K Z E R

Comfort food is like a warm hug, filled with memories of childhood and home cooking. Despite the novelty and excitement of trying new dishes, people will always turn back to the comfort of familiar foods. Recently, restaurants have been giving these comfort food classics a modern twist, updating them with upgraded ingredients and elevated presentation while still providing the same sense of nostalgia and warmth. Gnocchi, for example, is a humble, traditional Italian pasta made of potato flour that is often served as a comfort food. These days, restaurants are putting their own spin on it by using unique flour alternatives like sweet potato or by incorporating elevated components like short rib or shredded duck. Soup is another comfort food classic that has undergone a modern makeover. Rather than the simple chicken or butternut squash of the past,

restaurants are now offering more sophisticated options made with bone broth or with innovative toppings like king oyster chips and gremolata. What was once chopped liver is now liver mousse, often served upon crostini with sweet fruit preserves and savory mostarda. Dolcetto, a new restaurant located in Chestnut Ridge, NY, is just one new restaurant looking to bring something familiar and yet entirely new to the table. “My goal was to create a high-end kosher restaurant that didn’t just serve the exact same dishes we’ve seen a thousand times by now,” says owner and founder Alex Green. (Looking at you, pulled beef tacos.) Born into a family famous for their babka, Alex has a long history in the food industry. He attended culinary school and spent years working in catering and restaurants, as well as serving as a line cook. Although Alex left the food industry to open a successful tiling business, he never forgot his dream of owning a restaurant. He knew that when the opportunity presented itself, he would jump at the chance. When Alex received a call that the charming, standalone

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property he’d had his eye on was on the market, he went into action. Within two weeks he had signed a contract and was on his way to make his dream of opening a kosher restaurant a reality. Alex spent the next six months renovating the building from the ground up, infusing the decor with rustic charm and equestrian accents, as well as working to find a chef who could bring his vision to life. Chef Daniel Abikzer, who has worked at Meat in Crown Heights as well as Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, brings a wealth of experience and creativity to the kitchen at Dolcetto, crafting a unique and innovative menu that is constantly evolving. "Opening a restaurant is not an easy thing," says Alex. "The beginning is always a struggle while you’re figuring out what works and what doesn’t.” Growth has been gradual and organic, giving the restaurant the opportunity to continuously refine the process, as well as the menu itself. “As an owner who also has extensive experience in the kitchen, I have the unique ability to be really hands-on with every dish.” Alex makes it a point to be on-site and in touch with customers. "Every night, I sit down with the chef and restaurant staff to go over the dishes and how things went," he says. "During the evening, I go around to the

Malkie Knopfler and Rochie Pinson

tables and ask diners for their honest reviews on the food.” While compliments are nice, in these early stages he looks for straightforward feedback. “If someone's not happy, I want them to tell me why. Of course, we want to make it right, but we also need to know which dishes need to be tweaked or changed entirely.” **** As a group of local bloggers and influencers gathered for a Fleishigs dinner at Dolcetto, they were immediately struck by the unique ambience of the steakhouse, tucked on a quiet street in the heart of Rockland County. Wood beams overhead give the space a cozy, rustic feel, while the textured wallpaper adds a touch of sophistication. Small details like rope-wrapped sconces and equestrian-themed accents add to the charm of the space. The night began with an array of appetizers, including both modern dishes as well as reimagined comfort food classics. Steak tartare served with bone marrow sabayon (a custard-like Italian sauce) and house made potato chips was easily one of the favorites of the night. “The steak tartare was heaven, and the chips

"Opening a restaurant is not an easy thing. The beginning is always a struggle while you’re figuring out what works and what doesn’t.” -Alex Green

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Chef Daniel Abikzer and Dolcetto owner Alex Green

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were fried to perfection,” commented event planner extraordinaire Hershy Jay. “We cook that sabayon in a bainmarie (hot water bath) until it’s nice and fluffy, then infuse the bone marrow into the sauce,” explained Chef Daniel. At the same time, roasted cauliflower served over luscious tahini and topped with blanched almonds served as the ultimate testimony to how the most humble of ingredients can be transformed when prepared with intention. “The cauliflower with tahini was excellent,” commented Ahuva Gottdiener. Kosher travel blogger Gila Rapoport agreed: “It was my favorite dish of the night, and I would recommend it to anyone who comes here,” she added. Guests sampled hummus served with mushrooms and herbs, “ricotta” stuffed dates topped with duck prosciutto, char siu tongue bao buns and soup with a single oversized dumpling before moving on to the main courses — salmon en papillote, chicken roulade and aged ribeye steaks cooked to perfection, topped with a demi glace and served with an elegant potato and parsnip gratin. “Steak au poivre, one of our most popular menu items, is an excellent example of a dish that doesn’t need to be messed with, it just needs to be executed well,” says Chef

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Daniel. Beef stock is simmered for hours and hours until it reduces to a jus, then built into a beautiful sauce with brandy, Dijon mustard, shallots and a generous amount of green peppercorns. Another upgraded comfort food on the menu is the house made cavatelli with bolognese. This classic Italian-American dish is made with a base of crushed tomatoes and meat and simmered for several hours to create a rich, flavorful sauce. “I love simple, rustic food,” says Chef Daniel. “When it comes to serving comfort food on a fine dining scale, less is more — you don’t want too many complex ingredients, you just want a small portion of something absolutely delicious, so that you can appreciate those flavors as well as other dishes throughout your dinner.” Whether dining out or at home, it doesn’t take much for comfort food to transcend its humble roots. Chef Daniel’s advice for elevating home cooked dishes? “Think outside the box, but keep it simple,” he says. “Don’t overthink it — you don’t need a million spices to make your food taste good. You just need to season it properly, including acid.” Sometimes, a simple squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of flaky salt is all you need.

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Shlomo Klein and Heshy Jay

Malkie Knopfler, Cami Bouskila and Rochie Pinson

Chana Z. Weiss and Shushy Turin

Gila Rapoport and Bracha Bard-Wigdor

Eliana Ladenheim, Ahuva Gottdiener and Shushy Turin

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H AR A T RE H D C IT AULIFLOWER W

"The cauliflower with tahini was excellent, It was my favorite dish of the night, and I would recommend it to anyone who comes here."-Gila Rapoport 106

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É E

OULADE WI EN R TH CK I CO CH E R N ID

"When it comes to serving comfort food, less is more." -Chef Daniel Abikzer

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Sous Vide Chicken Roulade with Corn Purée Serves: 4-6

This recipe is an example of simple ingredients cooked in a way that elevates them entirely. NOTE: The corn purée recipe will yield more then you'll need for the chicken. You can reserve it for another use or even add vegetable broth to it and serve as soup. FOR THE CHICKEN ROULADE: 2½ tablespoons oil, divided 1 onion, diced 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 1 pound spinach 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts FOR THE CORN PURÉE: 2 tablespoons oil 3 onions, thinly sliced 6 cobs corn, kernels stripped (5-6 cups kernels) 2 cloves garlic, smashed 4 cups chicken broth Kosher salt, to taste FOR THE BROCCOLI AND TOMATOES: 1½ tablespoons oil 2 pounds broccoli florets or broccolini Kosher salt, to taste 2 cups cherry tomatoes Truffle oil (optional) 1. For the chicken, heat 1½ tablespoons oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and sauté for 15 minutes, until translucent and just starting to develop color. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add spinach and sauté until just wilted; set aside to cool. 2. Cut a pocket into each chicken breast. Stuff with spinach-onion mixture, then season tops with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. 3. Add chicken to a vacuum seal and seal tightly. Place in a sous vide bath set to 145°F; cook for 1 hour. Remove chicken from the bag and let it rest for 20 minutes. 4. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear chicken on both sides, just until golden in color (remember, the chicken has already been fully cooked).

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5. For the corn purée, heat oil in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add onions and sweat for 10-15 minutes (onions shouldn’t get browned). Add corn and garlic; sauté for 1-2 minutes. 6. Heat chicken broth in a saucepan over medium heat, then add to the skillet; liquid should just cover the vegetables; if not, add some water to supplement. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. 7. Transfer mixture to a high-powered blender and blend for 5 minutes, until smooth. Add salt to taste. 8. For the broccoli and tomatoes, heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add broccoli and sauté for about 4 minutes per side; transfer to a plate and season with a pinch of salt. Add tomatoes and sauté just until they start to burst, about 4 minutes; transfer to a plate and season with a pinch of salt. 9. To serve, plate the warm purée. Cut each chicken roulade into thirds and place on top of the purée with broccoli and tomatoes. Drizzle with truffle oil (if desired).

Charred Cauliflower with Tahini Serves: 4-6

This is a very easy and simple home recipe for Shabbat dinner or just to snack on during the week. You can use frozen cauliflower instead of fresh, just use oil spray instead of the olive oil, as there is extra moisture in frozen cauliflower so it doesn’t need as much oil to roast. EDITOR’S NOTE: It’s important to use prepared tahini sauce for this recipe (as opposed to tahini paste), which is usually thinned out with some water and lemon juice and seasoned with salt. See page 92 for Ari Raskin’s recipe or check out the Fleishigs app for many versions. 2 2 2 1½ ½ 1½ ¼ ⅓

heads cauliflower, cut into florets tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons hawaij teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups prepared tahini sauce (see head note) (page 92) cup roasted blanched almonds cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 450°F (preferably convection setting). Arrange cauliflower florets on a baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with hawaij, salt and pepper; toss to coat. 2. Roast for 15-20 minutes, until tender and golden. To serve, drizzle with tahini and sprinkle with blanched almonds and parsley. www.fleishigs.com

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We were honored to celebrate Rochie Pinson's newest book, The

Kids Book of Challah, at

our dinner at Dolcetto. Rochie spoke about the spiritual significance of challah and had a book for each guest. See more from Rochie on page 70. FEBRUARY 2023

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Show off your sweet side BY: N AO M I E L B E RG

omehow, cinnamon buns have become the quintessential “break the fast” dessert, no matter where you are in the world, from Tisha B’av to Yom Kippur and everything in between. They have also become a popular Shabbos breakfast food. Although not classic Jewish comfort food in the original sense of the term, in my book, cinnamon buns still qualify as part of this beloved category. This sweet roll dough recipe is so versatile and ideal for cinnamon buns, vanilla buns, cheese buns, chocolate buns, honey buns, sticky buns and the list goes on. We even added cardamom to it for a new take on the classic. Once you master this technique, the recipe will always be the one you turn to for bun baking.

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Best Overnight Sweet Roll Dough Yield: 12 buns N OT E S :

• High-gluten flour or bread flour is ideal for this recipe; you can use allpurpose flour, but you will need to knead the dough longer to activate the gluten properties. • A cold rise in the fridge overnight is highly recommended because the period of refrigeration improves the texture of the dough, making it easier to work with, allows the gluten to properly form and enhances the flavor. • Use this dough to make the Double Cinnamon Buns or Swedish Cardamom Buns (recipes follow). 1 ¾ ¼ 1½ 1 ¼

3 ½-¾

(¼-ounce) packet (2¼ teaspoons) instant yeast cup warm non-dairy milk or water cup sugar teaspoons pure vanilla extract or vanilla sugar large egg + 1 egg yolk cup (½ stick) unsalted non-dairy butter substitute, melted and cooled cups high-gluten flour (bread flour) teaspoon Himalayan pink salt

1. Mix yeast with milk and sugar; set aside until bubbles form on the surface, then add vanilla, eggs, butter, flour and salt. (Add cardamom now if making Swedish Cardamom Buns.) Mix by hand until dough comes together; set aside to rest for 10 minutes. Alternatively, use a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. 2. Knead dough for an additional 2-3 minutes on medium speed until smooth and elastic. If the dough looks or feels sticky, let it rest for 1-2 minutes. 3. Transfer dough to a greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Place in the fridge overnight to rise. 4. Let dough come to room temperature for 15-30 minutes. Proceed with Double Cinnamon Buns or Swedish Cardamom Buns.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Double Cinnamon Buns Yield: 12 buns

FOR THE WET CINNAMON FILLING: ½ cup dark brown sugar ½ cup light brown sugar ¼ cup (½ stick) non-dairy butter substitute, softened 2 tablespoons non-dairy milk or Rich’s Whip 2 tablespoons cinnamon FOR THE DRY CINNAMON FILLING: ½ cup dark brown sugar ½ cup light brown sugar 1-2 tablespoons cinnamon 1-2 tablespoons vanilla pudding powder Best Overnight Sweet Roll Dough (recipe above), after the overnight rise Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows) 1. Mix wet cinnamon filling ingredients until combined. Mix dry cinnamon filling ingredients until combined; set aside.

suns out buns out

2. Transfer dough to a clean, lightly floured surface. Using a floured rolling pin, roll dough into a large rectangle (about 24x15inch). 3. Using an offset spatula, spread the wet filling over the dough, then sprinkle generously with the dry filling. 4. Roll up tightly, jelly roll-style, then cut individual buns using a very sharp knife or unflavored dental floss so as to not ruin the shape of the buns. 5. Place buns in a 9x13-inch baking dish or on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a tea towel and set aside to rise for 30-45 minutes. Bake for about 20 minutes, until lightly golden brown. Let cool before frosting or glazing.

Cream Cheese Frosting Yield: 2 cups

Mix 1 (8-ounce) container softened nondairy cream cheese and ¼ cup (½ stick) softened non-dairy butter substitute. Add 2 cups confectioners’ sugar, ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract and ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt; mix until incorporated. Add non-dairy milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired consistency is reached.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Swedish Cardamom Buns Yield: 10-12 buns

By: Fleishigs Test Kitchen

For a new take on cinnamon buns, add cardamom, a spice that has been trending recently in some of the top non-kosher bakeries. Native to India and Indonesia, cardamom is popular in sweet and savory recipes in Indian cuisine. Cardamom in its whole pod form can be used in soups and stews or ground into powder. It’s strong, aromatic and slightly savory, which is why it works so well infused into this sweet dough. The shape is a traditional Swedish style (otherwise known as kanelbullar), but feel free to follow the shaping instructions from the Double Cinnamon Buns instead.

FOR THE FILLING: 1 cup (2 sticks) non-dairy butter substitute, softened 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt Best Overnight Sweet Roll Dough (page 112), after the overnight rise, with 2 tablespoons cardamom added to the dough 20 green cardamom pods, ground in a spice grinder, or 1 tablespoons ground cardamom 3 tablespoons sugar 1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water 1. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats; set aside. 2. Mix butter, sugar, cardamom and salt just until a paste forms. Alternatively, mix in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. 3. Transfer dough to a clean, lightly floured surface. Using a floured rolling pin, roll dough into a large rectangle (about 16x12-inch). 4. Using an offset spatula, spread filling over half of the dough, fold in half, lengthwise, to create a 16x6-inch rectangle. 5. Using a pizza cutter, cut the dough into 10-12 equal sized strips. 6. Cut each strip up the middle, being sure not to cut through all the way (leave about ¾-inch uncut). Twist the 2 “legs” together into a spiral, then coil into a bun shape, tucking the ends underneath. Repeat with the remaining dough strips. Arrange formed buns on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap or a tea towel and let rise for 1 hour, until puffed. 7. Preheat oven to 375°F. Mix cardamom with sugar. Brush buns with egg wash, then generously sprinkle with cardamom-sugar, about 1 teaspoon per bun. Bake for about 20 minutes, until golden brown. FEBRUARY 2023

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part 2 L

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n part one last month, we reviewed and summarized the modern history of wine in America and in California in particular. Now that we have a bit of information on the early development of California wine country and the American palate, we should discuss California as a region in more detail.

HISTORY OF GRAPES AND THE EVOLUTION OF THE CALIFORNIA WINE INDUSTRY:

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American Viticultural Areas ✫

As of 2018, there were 135 recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in California. An AVA is an area recognized for grape growing with discernable growing conditions, such as climate, soil or elevation, that differ from surrounding areas. Many wineries attribute their uniqueness to their AVA. Savvy consumers (or wine geeks, as I like to call myself and my friends), look for specific

In order to understand the different regions and vineyards in California, it is essential to discuss the history of grape growing and the evolution of the California wine industry.

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wines from specific AVAs. You may see these wine connoisseurs at large wine stores looking for a Sonoma Pinot Noir or a Russian River Chardonnay from Herzog Wine Cellars or a Napa Valley Dry Riesling from Hagafen. In order to be labeled as part of an AVA, 85% of the grapes that make up the wine must have been grown in the AVA. An AVA can be of any size and may even cross state or county lines. Many of us are familiar with the major wine growing regions such as Napa Valley and Sonoma County, but within each of these regions there may be several AVAs of varying size. As we look at the state of California geographically, we’ll explore the major wine regions and interesting AVAs therein.

Lake County ✫

Lake County, which is named for the largest lake in California (Clear Lake) and sits just east of Mendocino, is home to five AVAs. Lake County is known for its beautiful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, along with some other varietals. Herzog Wine Cellars has been growing and making wine from Lake County — the excellent Herzog Lineage Sauvignon Blanc from the Musqué clone and Herzog Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Lake County, which combines power and elegance.

EARLY 1800S: THE GOLD RUSH

Sonoma County ✫

Sonoma County is famous for growing the largest quantities of Pinot Noir grapes in the entire state of California. It has 13 AVAs and more than 500 wineries. Also found in abundance in this region are Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller, but still decent, amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel being produced. Sonoma’s best AVAs include the Russian River Valley, Los Carneros (which is also a part of Napa County),

1850S: NAPA IS BORN

EARLY 1900S: PROHIBITION ERA AND ITS AFTER EFFECTS

Alexander Valley, Dry Creek, Chalk Hill and Knights Valley. Herzog Special Reserve Chardonnay, Herzog Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, Herzog Special Edition Warnecke Vineyard and Herzog Special Reserve Clone #Six, which number among the very best and most consistent kosher wines year in and year out, are all made from grapes grown in those prestigious Sonoma AVAs. Covenant Winery has also been sourcing grapes from Sonoma to make their delightful and refreshing Red C Sauvignon Blanc.

1960S: REGROWTH IN AMERICAN WINE

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Napa Valley ✫

Next, the most famous of them all — Napa Valley is positively the most well-known region in all of California even though it only produces just 4% of California’s wine. Home to over 600 wineries, Napa Valley’s reputation certainly precedes itself. Why is Napa considered a luxury brand? The Napa region has 16 unique AVAs and contains 46,000 areas of vines. Napa is known for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and many others. Some of the most expensive bottles you see on the shelves come from this region. Measuring around 30 miles long and just five miles across at its widest point, what is so great about this place? Are these grapes made of gold?

Alexander Valley ✫

The Alexander Valley AVA follows the path of the Russian River as it flows from Mendocino County southeast to Healdsburg. The Russian River has been drying up slowly along the banks, which results in deposits of gravel underneath the alluvial soil. These deposits give the soil a brilliant, flinty, mineral-driven facet that produces great Cabernet Sauvignon. The change in the soil has created a small bubble of vineyards whose soils are similar to those of Bordeaux, France.

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It is important to note that regardless of the luxury associated with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, other regions, including Alexander Valley (in Sonoma), have been producing excellent Cabernet Sauvignon for years. Herzog Alexander Valley Cabernet is one of my favorite wines made in California. Rich with a deep purple hue, this wine has notes of blackberries, coffee grinds, pencil shavings and rugged leather. It is not to be overlooked and can age for decades. This wine was first introduced to the Herzog portfolio in 1993. The oldest vintage of this wine that I had the honor of tasting was the 1997, which was lively, delicious and still drinking so nicely.

In winemaking terms, they are made of gold. Their high concentration and the terroir of the region, combined with expert wine making skills, can create wines that can last several decades or more. They are the top quality in terms of new-world expression of grapes and can (at times) compete with the highestquality of French wines on the old-world spectrum. Unlike the strict rules of the appellations of old-world France, Spain and Italy, California grape growers have license to experiment and plant a variety of grapes in their vineyards.

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The Real Gold Rush A Shocking Blind Tasting ✫

California, and especially Napa Valley, became known as a world-class and sought-after wine region after the celebrated Judgment of Paris blind tasting that took place on May 24, 1976. The idea of a blind tasting, which, by the way, is quite fun and entertaining to do at home, is to taste wines without knowing what they are or where they come from. Judges compare grape varietals, regions and styles all without the taint of viewing the label, which often creates a bias.

At this particular tasting, the panel paired the best wines of California against the best wines of France. Whoever had this idea was brilliant. The panel had no idea what was happening, even with their decades of tasting experience as French wine-tasting experts. The line-up was four white Burgundy wines (all Chardonnay wines from France’s Burgundy region) against six California Chardonnay wines, and six California Cabernet Sauvignon wines against six top-shelf red Bordeaux wines. The results shocked everyone. Three of the top four wines were from California! These wineries and the region became instantly famous.

There have been many hurdles in California winemaking history. Without these challenges, the region would not be what it is today. The climate and soil in California give winemakers a chance to experiment and show the true value of how the expression of grape varietals can change the context of a wine. The absence of limitations within the AVA guidelines give wineries the freedom to think outside of the box and experiment with varietals that are not well-known in California. This makes drinking California wines unique and exciting.

GO AHEAD AND PICK UP A BOTTLE OF HERZOG SPECIAL RESERVE PINOT NOIR FROM STA. RITA HILLS AND HAVE A GREAT TIME EXPLORING. L’CHAIM!

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R E C I P E

I N D E X

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 46 Charlene’s Ultimate Challah Recipe FF 55 Tomato Dip M Q 80 Pastrami Cracker Crumble 83 Spicy Mayo Q 91

Quick Pickled Red Onions Q

Roasted Scallion Aioli

92 Homemade Shawarma Seasoning 92 Basic Tahini M Q 90 Onion Jam

VEGETARIAN & FISH 50 Nokedli M 59 Tomato Onion Salad M Q 78 Kale Noodle Kugel FF 83 Mosaic Sushi Salad 90 Crispy Onion Rings FF 92 Sumac Slaw 108 Charred Cauliflower with Tahini

CHICKEN & MEAT 28 Potato Kugel Shepherd’s Pie 30 Silan Glazed Koftes 37 Yemenite “Soup” Sheet Pan Chicken 41

Moroccan Couscous FF

45 Lemon Chicken Shish Kabobs FF M Q 50 Chicken Paprikash with Nokedli FF 55 Samsa FF M 56 Dolma 58 Plov FF 80 Mac and “Cheese” FF 85 Miso-Braised Brisket 88 Dressed Up Ramen 90 Onion Burger 92 Chicken Shawarma M Q 92 Malawach Shawarma Burrito FF 108 Sous Vide Chicken Roulade with Corn Purée

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SWEET TREATS 72 Cinnamon Streusel Crunch Pudding FF 74 Stuffed French Toast FF 112 Best Overnight Sweet Roll Dough 113 Double Cinnamon Buns FF

Key: FF

Family-Friendly

Hot & Spicy

Minimal Ingredients

Quick

113 Cream Cheese Frosting 115 Swedish Cardamom Buns

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A Tradition of Excellence from Generation to Generation THE ROTHSCHILD LEGACY

As the legend goes, Reb Mayer Anschel Rothschild (‘744–’812), received a bracha for wealth and hatzlocho from his renowned rebbe, Harav Zvi Hirsh from Tzortkov zt”l. Rothschild became a banker and, with his family, established the largest private banking business in the world. Hundreds of years later, the family interests range from financial services and real estate to energy, agriculture and successful winemaking. Today, the Rothschild family owns over 15 wine estates around the globe including in France, North and South America, South Africa and Australia. Of particular note are the Château Mouton Rothschild and the Château Lafite Rothschild which are classified as Premier Cru Classé — “First Growth” in English. This coveted classification proves the grapes were grown in the Bordeaux region of France and that they are among the highest quality in the world.

LAST BITE

Comfort Food Round Up #yesitsontheapp BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ Although comfort food can be subjective and can mean something different to everyone, here are a few from past issues that cannot be argued.

MONTREAL SPICED BRAISED BRISKET

SAUSAGE, CHICKEN AND RICE BAKE

By: Shifra Klein

ISSUE #8

ISSUE #17

Brisket is a Jewish comfort food for many reasons. Not only is it easy to prepare, it’s a crowd pleaser. From weeknight to Shabbos and holidays, this early recipe is a winner.

This recipe, which my kids request regularly, is a one-pan chicken and rice that’s elevated with sausages for the perfect salty bite.

COFFEE CAKE

SHREDDED CRISPY BEEF

BEET MAGIC CHICKEN SOUP

By: Adina Silberman

By: Shifra Klein

By: Shlomo Klein

ISSUE #42

ISSUE #21

ISSUE #42

Paired with a hot cup of tea or coffee, this crumb-loaded cake (it’s not a mistake!) screams comfort dessert.

Chinese food is comfort food for so many and this recreation truly hits the spot.

Need I say more?

YAPCHIK

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Regular versions by Shlomo & Shifra Klein (ISSUE #5) and Nicole Gleitman (ISSUE #6); Slow Cooker Yapchik by: Shlomo Klein (ISSUE#25); Corned Beef Yapchik (ISSUE#30) by: Shlomo & Shifra Klein

CHOCOLATE JAVA BABKA

SUPER CRISPY SCHNITZEL

By: Naomi Elberg

By: Shifra Klein

Whichever version you choose to make, a piping hot plate of yapchik (a potato kugelchulent hybrid) on Shabbos morning is well worth the effort.

ISSUE #7

ISSUE # 33

Find the No-Fail Babka Dough from the same issue to make multiple versions of Naomi’s tried-and-true recipe.

Freshly fried schnitzel needs nothing else to exude comfort food.

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