Fleishigs Magazine Issue 048 - June 2023

II

T R A

P IT USA $6.99 CAN $9.99 / UK £6 SA R90 / ISR 25₪

A

LY

:

L E AV E I T ALL BEHIND ( TO U S )

LE

BUS E

LA

R

TY

RE

W

P

N, YOU P

A

More perks, more service, more upgrades, more everything.

Travel the world without the hassle of planning, schlepping, and continuously double-checking.

From flights to hotels, and (most importantly) food, we’ll set it all up, from pickup to parfait. With over fifteen years of kosher travel experience and more connections than JFK on a busy day, all you need to do is pick a place, we’ll take care of the rest.

Luxury Partnerships Include:

A

AGENCY P OW ER ED BY GTC

Aman, Belmond Bellini Club, Dorchester Collection Diamond Club, Four Seasons Preferred Partner, Kempinski Club 1897, Marriott STARS, Oetker Pearl Partner, Rosewood Elite

HIGHCL AS S TR AVEL .COM / TEL . 212 .933.9336 / SALES@HIGHCL AS S TR AVEL .COM / @HCTR AVELCOLLECTION

Goldberg & Goldstein / the only sweat you’ll break is in the sauna.

ND P

SU

IN

S A

A

ES

Your home is your haven.

FULL LINE OF:

Vanities Shower Systems Whirlpools PlumbersHaven.com | (718) 604-1300 516 Empire Blvd Brooklyn, NY 11225  @plumbershaven

Faucets & Coordinating Bathroom Fixtures

GET7%OFFONBI SONMEATBYUSI NGTHESPECI ALFLEI SHI GSCODE: 7FLGSVALI DUNTI LJUNE30, 2023

31

CULINARY SCHOOL LESSONS WE LEARNED FROM COOKING CLASSES

42

TRAVEL THE AMALFI COAST, FLORENCE AND BEYOND

12

EDITOR’S LETTER

16

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

18

ESSENTIALS What you need to cook this issue

22

BUTCHER’S CUT Lamb chops

82

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Terra di Seta: The Jewel of Tuscany

87

SOMETHING SWEET Italian-inspired desserts

92

L’CHAIM Chilled wines for summer

96

RECIPE INDEX

98

LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp

67

BACK POCKET TOMATOES AND ZUCCHINI

8

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

^ Chicken Marsala

Pick up the recipe card at a Gourmet Glatt near you

JUST ANOTHER ORDINARY WEEKNIGHT?

SIGN UP HERE FO R S P E C I A L S

NOT IF WE CAN HELP IT. cedarhurst

woodmere

brooklyn

lakewood north

lakewood south

137 Spruce Street Cedarhurst, New York T: 516-569-2662

1030 Railroad Ave Woodmere, New York T: 516-295-6901

1274 39th Street Brooklyn, New York T: 718-437-3000

1700 Madison Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1700

1328 River Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1750

Shop online at GourmetGlattOnline.com

gourmetglatt

If you didn't test for

GAUCHER DISEASE you didn't test for everything.

Gaucher Disease is one of the most common Jewish genetic diseases among Ashkenazi Jews.

Te s t Your Pat i e n t s Today.

For More Information:

gauchercare.com/hcp

©2021 Genzyme Corporation. All rights reserved.

Sanofi and Genzyme are registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office MAT-US-2105138-v1.0-05.2021

pivotgroup.nyc

THE PERFECT MINI INDULGENCE Cream-filled hazelnut cones topped with chocolate and nonpareils

EDITOR'S LETTER

ITALY: PART II

Così è la Vita

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

WHEN WE PLANNED our trip to Rome, which was highlighted in the Shavuos issue, our initial thought was to pack everything into two nights and three days, then come home.

Our dear travel agents — Joseph, Jay and Rivkah from High Class Travel — insisted that we extend our trip to see other parts of Italy; to their credit, we managed to shift our schedule to accommodate a few more days in Italy for an experience we will never forget.

With close to no notice, they seamlessly added a twonight stay in Florence and scheduled our return flight out of Naples, so that we could visit the iconic Amalfi Coast. There was so much to write about Rome that we dedicated a second issue to take you on our journey from Florence to Rome and the Amalfi Coast.

Beyond all of the travel tips featured on the pages of this issue, we were so inspired by many food and culinary lessons we learned throughout Italy. One key factor was the superior produce — no words can actually describe how good a simple slice of tomato is in Italy.

In fact, I can confidently say that out of all of the delicious meals we had on the

trip, the most memorable plates were the ones that consisted of fresh tomatoes, burrata, extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of flaky salt.

This further inspired my dedication to eat as seasonally and locally as possible in hopes of having more improved produce experiences; as such, our Back Pocket feature this month celebrates just that — the best of summer produce, tomato and zucchini, inspired by Italy.

Our trip began in Florence (aka Firenze), a beautiful city full of art, culture and Jewish history. A consistent theme throughout Italy was the stories shared by the beautiful synagogues we visited — a tragic yet hopeful history of building and rebuilding after destruction reminiscent of the diaspora and growth experienced by Jews throughout history.

I hope this issue brings you that same inspiration as we kick off a wonderful summer.

Bitayavon,

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappoport FOOD STYLIST ASSISTANT Esther Hazan CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com

www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.

Shifra

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

12

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

FLEISHIGS SUPERFANS WHATSAPP GROUP

www.fleishigs.com

Welcome to our Town!

For 1000’s of customers.

For nearly 50 years.

ALL BRANDS ALL MODELS ALL BUDGETS

Go to the go-to.

SERVING TOWN SINCE 1979.

VISIT OUR SHOWROOM IN OWINGS MILLS! B A LT I M O R E 410-364-4400 EXT 2205 9616 REISTERSTOWN RD. OWINGS MILLS, MD 21117

L A K E W O O D 732-364-5195 10 S C L I F TO N AV E . L A K E W O O D, N J 0 8 7 0 1

C E D A R H U R S T 516- 303- 8338 E X T 6010 4 31 C E NTR AL AVE . C E DAR H UR ST, NY 11516

W W W. T O W N A P P L I A N C E . C O M S AL E S @TO WNAP P L IA NCE. COM

T H I S M O N T H 'S C O N T R I B U TO RS :

16

NAOMI ELBERG, originally from Montreal, does cooking and baking demonstrations nationwide, growing her passion for all things baked. Naomi can be reached at TGIS.challah@gmail.com or on Instagram @naomi_TGIS.

GABRIEL GELLER is the Director of PR & Advertising and Manager of Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp. He is also a wine writer, critic and consultant. Reach Gabriel via Instagram @kosherwine_gg, email ggeller@royalwine.com or through his Facebook group, Kosher Wine: Sharing and Experiences.

YAEL GELLER is a wine enthusiast and co-manages the largest wine forum in the world, Kosher Wine: Sharing and Experiences, on Facebook with her husband Gabriel. Follow along on Yael’s adventures on Instagram @tigresskitchen.

BENEDETTA JASMINE GUETTA is an Italianborn food writer, blogger, photographer and author of the acclaimed cookbook Cooking alla Giudia, which serves as a tribute to her Italian Jewish heritage. Benedetta’s work has been featured on numerous news outlets in Italy and abroad, from Corriere della Sera to the Washington Post and Vogue. Benedetta can be found on Instagram @labna and on her website labna.it/en.

NAFTALI HANAU, trained shochet, menaker, grill enthusiast and life-long lover of kosher meats, founded Grow & Behold in 2010 with his wife Anna. Grow & Behold has become the gold standard for premium kosher pastured meats in the United States. Find glatt kosher, pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb and poultry with no hormones or growth-promoting antibiotics at growandbehold.com.

NECHAMA MARCUS is a designer and traveler based out of Brooklyn, NY. Her wanderlust began in her imagination as a child and the insatiability has never left her. Her enthusiasm for new experiences fuels her creative pursuits. Nechama hopes to inspire others to share her passion for exploration and discover the world’s many treasures.

ANNA RAHMANAN is a New York-based writer and editor whose words have appeared in Time Out New York, Newsweek, the Huffington Post and Bon Appetit, among other outlets. You can follow her on Twitter @annarahmanan or Instagram @annabyrahmanan.

ADINA SILBERMAN is a practicing general dentist and is passionate about home cooking.

She is a regular contributor to Fleishigs and shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina. Adina lives in Riverdale, NY with her husband and two daughters.

ELISHEVA TAITZ works full-time in the corporate healthcare industry and is also a food writer, recipe developer and the editor of Fleishigs Magazine. She lives with her family in Cedarhurst, NY. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

W E N WHITE DIPPED CRUNCH

Deliciously dipped in white chocolate and coated with crispy crunch for a satisfyingly crunchy bite and supreme taste.

Product of USA

ESSENTIALS

Essentials EQUIP YOUR KITCHEN WITH THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS AND TOOLS YOU'LL NEED TO COOK THIS ISSUE. BY : E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

CUTCO CHEESE KNIFE

TUSCANINI EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

Although marketed for cheese, this knife is super versatile. The openings on the blade keep potatoes from sticking to the knife and it slices through tomatoes effortlessly as well. Use it for the Herb-Roasted Potatoes on page 35, the Oregano-Roasted Tomatoes on page 34 and the Fresh Tomatoes with Olive Oil on page 68.

An Italian feast is not complete without extra-virgin olive oil — the perfect accompaniment to fresh bread or finishing touch for a simple salad, like the Fresh Tomatoes with Olive Oil on page 68. Made in Italy, this cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil can be found online or in stores worldwide. Look for the infused (basil, truffle) varieties as well. amazon.com | prices vary by product

cutco.com | $108

SABATINO TARTUFI TRUFFLE & ROSEMARY SEA SALT To add some truffle essence to your dishes, try truffle salt. Unlike most truffle oils, which can be artificial, truffle salt has real bits of truffle. This version, with rosemary, is the perfect finishing seasoning to any of the lamb chop recipes (see Butcher's Cut, page 22), as rosemary grows wild in Italy.

HERITAGE BUNDT PAN

MUSTARD SEEDS

Sure, a standard Bundt pan will do, but why not elevate your Limoncello Bundt Cake (page 27) with a different, more modern shape? It makes a beautiful presentation, especially once iced.

Typically used for pickling or brining, mustard seeds add a sharp mustard flavor to the Cherry Mostarda on page 88. According to the cRc, whole spices do not require special kosher certification.

nordicware.com | $42.00

amazon.com | $12.75

HERB STRIP

BIALETTI BRIKKA

SPICE GRINDER

Easily strip herbs from the stems with this compact stainless steel herb strip. With holes of varying sizes for herbs, it can even be used to strip kale. Use it for the herbs in the Zucchini Carpaccio on page 78 and the Grilled Lamb Chops on page 25.

Drink like an Italian with this stovetop coffee pot. Make four creamy, foamy cups of espresso in this compact pot for the ultimate at-home coffee shop experience. See page 34 for more on Italy's coffee culture.

Grind spices easily in one maneuver with this spice grinder. It’s the most effective way to grind chili peppers and whole spices for homemade spice rubs, like the Coffee Chili Rub on page 28.

amazon.com | $12.99 18

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

amazon.com | $59.99

crateandbarrel.com | $39.95

www.fleishigs.com

GROW AN OUTDOOR HERB GARDEN: Unlike delicate herbs like cilantro and basil that can die in extreme sunlight, rosemary is hearty enough to withstand hours of direct sunlight. In fact, it can even withstand cold winters and still return and thrive again, allowing you to enjoy fresh rosemary throughout most of the year, if you’re lucky. However, after a few seasons, the stalks and roots tend to get very thick and tough, at which point you may want to replace the plant with a new one.

Introduces...

Cholov Yisroel

Here are my top tips for establishing a successful outdoor herb garden: •

Water daily — it may seem obvious, but herb gardens thrive the most when watered consistently and plentifully. The dirt should be wet, but not flooded.

•

Rotating placement of different herbs from one year to the next will benefit growth.

•

Till the soil after the winter and mix in a fresh layer of soil to promote the garden’s health.

•

Plant quick-growing herbs like mint in contained pots, and not with other herbs, so they don’t take over the entire herb garden.

•

As soon as you see overgrowth (i.e. flowers on basil, berries on cilantro), trim using garden shears (I use my Cutco Super Shears).

•

If your herb garden space has shadier spots, reserve those for the more delicate herbs.

•

3-4 weeks after planting your herb garden, add some light herb fertilizer, preferably organic.

tnuvausa.com

PHOTO: GIL AD TIDHAR

W W W.I S H AY R IB O.C OM

‫בס״ד‬

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 3, 2023 Guest Performances

AMIR DADON & Akiva Art director : yakov asraf | Set design: Tal Frid

BUTCHER'S CUT

LAMB CHOPS THIS ELEGANT CUT OF MEAT IS EASY TO COOK AND A WELCOME CHANGE FROM STEAK FOR YOUR SUMMER BARBECUES. BY: N A F TA L I H A N AU P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R

Ah, the lamb chop, a truly delightful cut. I insist that you use your hands to eat them — there is way too much good meat on those bones that you’ll miss with a knife and fork.

There is nothing like perfectly crisp seared chops with tender insides and gently softened fat.

Before we get into how to cook lamb chops to perfection, you need to know what chops you are dealing with, as there are several different kinds.

1. Rainbow chops are cut from the lower part of the shoulder and feature the incredibly tasty and tender rainbow meat. Depending on the time of year and size of the lamb, these chops can be the fattiest, which means extra flavor, but if you’re not a fan of fat, try shoulder chops or lamb chops instead.

2. Lamb shoulder chops are meaty and flavorful. They are leaner than rainbow chops and larger than lamb chops, so if you're looking for a hearty meal of delicious, pasture-raised lamb, this is the chop for you. They are sometimes called second cut lamb chops since they have more of the slightly tougher shoulder meat on them.

lean, they’re the most straightforward as far as the majority of the meat goes (no intermuscular tissues, multiple muscles, etc.), but you still have some meat left on the bone that should rightfully be gnawed off.

4. Baby lamb chops or lollipop lamb chops are frenched (meaning the bones are cleaned up) and carefully trimmed into elegant circles. They’re ideal for appetizers or a fancy dinner, but they’re the least cost-effective — all that extra trimming means extra work and a higher cost for a very small amount of meat.

3. Lamb chops are essentially the rib-eye of lamb. They can also be called first cut or rib chops. Tender and relatively

DON’T BE SHEEPISH 22

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

CHOP SIZE MATTERS: Larger rainbow and shoulder lamb chops benefit from being seared, then finished with indirect heat (either on the grill or in a 400°F oven) to finish cooking.

On the other hand, smaller lamb chops can be seared on the stove or grill — no oven or indirect heat required.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

23

BUTCHER'S CUT

LAMB WITH A PLAN

GLAZED OVER

HOW TO COOK CHOPS TO PERFECTION:

1.

Heat a generous amount of grapeseed or sunflower seed oil in a heavy cast iron or stainless steel pan (large enough for the chops to fit comfortably) over medium-high heat.

2.

Once the oil is shimmering, carefully arrange the chops in the pan. Monitor the flame to prevent burning, but don’t touch the chops for at least 4 minutes.

3.

After 4 minutes, gently use tongs to try to lift one chop. If it doesn’t lift easily, it’s not ready to flip.

4.

Once the chops lift cleanly and easily from the pan, they will have developed a beautiful and uniform crust; flip and cook for another 1-2 minutes on the other side.

The whole process will take 4-7 minutes, depending on the pan and the stove.

To finish in the oven (for medium/large chops): Flip and keep on the heat for about 1 minute. After 1 minute, transfer pan to a 400°F oven to finish cooking. Large chops should reach medium-rare in about 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, check for doneness (see below). Transfer chops to a plate or cutting board, tented lightly with foil. Let rest for 3-4 minutes before serving.

24

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

Rosemary-Glazed Lamb Chops Serves: 4

By: Shifra Klein

Rosemary grows wild in so many different places throughout Italy, from Rome to the Amalfi Coast.

Therefore, it’s a popular herb used in many recipes.

Naftali Hanau is famous for his rosemary-glazed lamb chops and the secret is a rosemary simple syrup, which Naftali recommends using all summer long not only for grilled meats, but also in salad dressings and cocktails.

3

3 2 1 4-8

1

tablespoons Rosemary Simple Syrup (recipe below) tablespoons Dijon mustard cloves garlic, smashed or minced teaspoon freshly ground black pepper lamb chops Fresh rosemary, for serving lemon, cut into wedges, for serving

1. Mix simple syrup, Dijon mustard, garlic and black pepper. Rub all over lamb chops; set aside to marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature or up to 2 hours in the fridge (remove from fridge 30 minutes before grilling to bring it back to room temperature).

Rosemary Simple Syrup This syrup is delicious as a base for a refreshing summer drink with seltzer, cider vinegar and a splash of gin or whiskey!

Add 1 cup water, 1 cup sugar and 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary to a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat for 10-15 minutes, until thickened slightly and sugar is dissolved. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 months.

Sparkling Rosemary Lemonade Mix ½ cup Rosemary Simple Syrup (recipe above) and ¼ cup fresh lemon juice in a pitcher. Top with cold seltzer or water, to taste.

Serve with ice.

2. Heat a grill to high heat. Grill lamb chops until medium rare, about 3-5 minutes per side, until internal temperature reaches 140°F. Alternatively, heat a bit of oil in a cast iron pan over high heat; sear chops for 4 minutes, then flip and cook for another 3-4 minutes.

3. To serve, garnish with fresh rosemary and lemon wedges.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

25

BUTCHER'S CUT

26

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

YOU MOSTARDA TRY THESE

Grilled Lamb Chops with Cherry Mostarda Serves: 4-8

By: Shifra Klein

Found throughout Italy, mostarda is a mixture of sweetened fruit and spicy mustard seeds. It’s a delicious condiment for roasted meats or cheese plates, as well as a sweet and slightly spicy addition to vinaigrettes.

3 3

2 ½ ¼ 4-8

tablespoons olive oil cloves garlic, minced Zest of 1 lemon sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves stripped and minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper lamb chops Cherry Mostarda (recipe follows), for serving Arugula, for serving Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Mix oil, garlic, lemon zest, rosemary, salt and pepper. Rub all over lamb chops; set aside to marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature or 2-12 hours in the fridge (remove from fridge 30 minutes before grilling to bring it back to room temperature).

2. Heat a grill to high heat. Grill chops for 4 minutes per side. Serve with mostarda, arugula and lemon wedges.

Cherry Mostarda Yield: 2 cups

Add 2 cups pitted fresh or frozen cherries, 1 cup sugar, ⅓ cup apple cider vinegar, 3-4 tablespoons whole mustard seeds, 2 teaspoons ground mustard powder and a pinch of kosher salt to a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat.

Simmer for 5-10 minutes, until slightly thickened and the fruit is tender. Taste and adjust flavorings as desired (if too tart, add more sugar; if too mild, add more vinegar or mustard seeds). Bring to a rolling boil for several minutes.

Remove from heat and let cool. Store in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to 3 months.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

27

BUTCHER'S CUT

NOTE: If you can’t find dried Calabrian chilis or don’t have a spice grinder (see page 18 for the spice grinder we recommend), you can use traditional chili powder, just decrease the amount.

Lamb Chops with Coffee Chili Rub Serves: 4

4

Lamb chops taste incredible with a balanced spice rub, some oil and the flavor that comes from a smoky, hot grill. Inspired

by Italy’s Calabrian chili and the obsession with coffee, the balance of bitter, spicy and savory notes in this rub work wonderfully with the lamb.

28

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

lamb shoulder or rainbow chops or 8 lamb chops 4 teaspoons freshly ground dried Calabrian chilis 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground coffee ½ teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon granulated garlic 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Pat lamb chops dry with a paper towel to remove excess moisture.

2. Mix ground chilis, salt, coffee, sugar and garlic. Brush oil over chops, then sprinkle spice rub evenly over both sides.

3. Heat oil in a cast iron skillet (or your outdoor grill) over high heat. Grill for about 4 minutes per side (see instructions above — cooking time will vary depending on size of chops). Serve immediately. www.fleishigs.com

Heart.Works

MEAT, MEET WINE O

,

G

U

D

S

TES , AN

Taste Tuscanini, Know Italy.

HI

PI E

M

W

D

It’s time your kitchen was introduced to the deeply nuanced flavor of Tuscanini Cooking Wine, grown, harvested, and pressed amidst the rolling hills of Piedmont. Marinate your meats with the finest of wines, infusing them with the spirit of Italia.NT REDS

Tuscanini Red Wine & Date Brisket By: Sina Mizrahi

RE

EN PL ATE

A

Just topped off construction!

Artist Rendering - Conceptual Only

A Luxurious Private Community of One-To-Four Bedroom Residences Live exceptionally in the heart of Miami Beach. This limited collection of luxury homes features well-appointed finishes and lifestyle details, including top-of-the-line Chef’s Kosher Kitchens and Shabbos elevators.

• Kosher Restaurant On-Site • Porches Acceptable for Sukkahs • Shul on Premises Exclusively marketed by Mushka Jacobson

Schedule a visit to our Sales Gallery

340 W 42nd St. Miami Beach, FL

786.761.1262 • 42PINE.COM

ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THIS BROCHURE AND TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. This is an artist rendering based on plans and concepts which are subject to change without notice. All depictions and views are conceptual. No guarantee is made that the features,

CULINARY SCHOOL

BY: S H I F R A A N D S H LO M O K L E I N

TOP 10

C U L I N A RY L E S S O N S F R O M I TA LY O N E O F O U R B E ST T I PS W H E N T R AV E L I N G I S TO L E A R N A B O U T T H E LO CA L C U I S I N E , C U STO M S A N D C U LT U R E . O N O U R T R I P TO I TA LY, W E AC C O M P L I S H E D T H I S BY E AT I N G LO CA L D E L I CAC I E S ; P E RU S I N G T H E FA R M E RS’ M A R K E TS A N D S M A L L S H O PS ; A N D BY TA K I N G A C O O K I N G C L ASS AT T H E O L D SY N AG O G U E I N S I E N A , I TA LY AT T H E R EC O M M E N DAT I O N O F O U R T R AV E L AG E N T AT H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L . H E R E A R E SO M E O F T H E I N VA LUA B L E T I PS W E L E A R N E D A LO N G T H E WAY.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

31

TOP 10

C U L I N A RY L E SSO N S F RO M I TA LY

2

1

Quality Matters Minimalism

Food truly shines when it’s prepared simply — no frills, with minimal spices and minimal ingredients. This way of cooking truly exemplifies classic Italian cuisine. When we visited Villa Treville in Positano, the chef graciously accommodated our kosher needs and cooked us pasta with fresh tomato sauce. It was mind blowing how few ingredients it had and how absolutely delicious it was! Just spaghetti, which is simple in and of itself, pasta water, olive oil, tomatoes, kosher salt and basil. It left us feeling inspired to cook with fewer ingredients to better enjoy and highlight the ingredients themselves.

A classic Roman-Jewish recipe, fried and marinated zucchini, really speaks to this cooking style. See page 79 for the recipe.

32

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

The reason Italian food is so minimalistic is that the ingredients are high tier to begin with, especially the produce. There is no exaggeration in the popularity of tomatoes or lemons in Italy — they truly do taste better. I have never eaten tomatoes as sweet as the ones I had in Italy. When our guide Nofar offered us a slice of lemon with sea salt, my initial hesitation was obvious, but it was surprisingly phenomenal. The salt brought out the sweetness of the world-famous Sorrento lemon; while I have yet to find this goodness in New York, I have vowed to make a greater effort to purchase farm-fresh produce in hopes of an enhanced experience.

See page 66 for recipes highlighting zucchini and tomato, two of Italy’s iconic fresh ingredients.

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

3

Al Dente

We expected to be met with lots of homemade pasta at every restaurant. And while there were fresh options, most restaurants use De Cecco dried pasta, which seems to be the brand of choice across Italy. All pasta is cooked al dente (“to the tooth”). There is a definitive bite to the pasta that marks the tasting experience in Italy.

We also enjoyed various versions of kosher carbonara. Carbonara is an Italian pasta dish that uses cured pork, egg yolks and Pecorino cheese, a truly non-kosher combination.

In kosher dairy restaurants, you will find zucchini as a placeholder for the pork. In kosher meat restaurants, cured beef is used, as well as a bit of lemon and wine in the sauce to make up for the tangy savoriness of the Pecorino. We added a bit of nutritional yeast to our inspired version of the delicious dish we enjoyed at Ba’Ghetto in Rome.

A L L PASTA I S C O O K E D A L D E N T E ( “ TO T H E TO OT H” ) . T H E R E I S A D E F I N I T I V E B I T E TO T H E PASTA T H AT M A R KS T H E TAST I N G E X P E R I E N C E I N I TA LY.

Non-Dairy Carbonara Serves: 6-8

1 8 ¼ 2 2 ½

½ ¼ ¼ ¼-½

(16-ounce) package pasta slices beef bacon, thinly sliced cup white wine garlic cloves, minced large eggs, plus 2 egg yolks cup nutritional yeast Zest and juice of 1 lemon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon garlic powder cup chopped fresh chives

1. Cook pasta al dente in salted water according to package directions. Reserve 2 cups of pasta water before straining.

2. In the meantime, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat; add beef bacon and cook until slightly crispy, about 3-4 minutes. Add wine and cook until reduced, then remove from heat.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, egg yolks, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, lemon zest, salt, pepper and garlic powder.

4. Temper egg mixture by adding ⅓ cup hot reserved pasta water and whisking continuously.

5. Add pasta to the skillet and return to medium-high heat. Add egg mixture and stir, allowing the eggs to coat the pasta. As it starts to heat up, the sauce should start to thicken.

Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Garnish with chives.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

33

TOP 10

C U L I N A RY L E SSO N S F RO M I TA LY

5 WHO? Superzize

Another charming concept is the substantial difference in coffee cup sizes from what we are used to. A 6-8 ounce cup is a standard medium/ large, as we quickly learned when we asked for a to-go cup at Villa Cora, the hotel we stayed at in Tuscany (read more on page 58). Beyond the cup differences, ice is another differentiating factor.

The amount of ice I am accustomed to was never met throughout our trip.

6 4

Shots of foamy espresso are served with sparkling water to cleanse your palate between sips.

Coffee Culture

Herbs

When taking a cooking class in the old synagogue of Siena, which was an unforgettable combination of culinary and Jewish history, our guide brought along a bunch of dried oregano. Classic Italian cuisine calls for lots of herbs, so locals tend to tie bunches of fresh aromatic herbs with twine and let them dry in the sun to create dried herbs unlike anything you can buy in the store. The sun-dried oregano we used was aromatic and added tons of flavor to the oven-roasted tomatoes we cooked.

Oregano-Roasted Tomatoes Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange 3 cups halved plum tomatoes, cut-side up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon extravirgin olive oil and season with ½-1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon dried oregano. Roast for 30-40 minutes.

While tourists are exempt from the many unspoken social and cultural rules that are crucial in Italian daily life, it was interesting to pick up on how Italians eat and cook. Quality matters, so you will rarely find low-fat, skim or alternative milks in most Italian homes. A hot cup of foamy cappuccino made with full-fat milk is the norm for most. The caveat? Not past 10 AM! According to locals, your body digests dairy better in the morning, so if a midday caffeine fix is needed, espresso it is!

34

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Rosemary-Stuffed Branzino Serves: 2

3 1 1½ ½

7

8 1 2

sprigs rosemary branzino, butterflied and bones removed teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ounces cherry tomatoes on the vine lemon, halved tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Fresh basil, chiffonade, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.

2. Place branzino on the prepared baking sheet. Season both sides of the inside of the fish with ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Place rosemary inside; close fish.

Roasted Potatoes

3. Using a sharp paring knife, make two slits in the skin on both sides of the fish.

Season both sides of the outside of the fish with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and black pepper, rubbing it in through the slits as well.

Every meat restaurant had a version of roasted potatoes that was served with braised veal, lamb, beef and fish.

The roasted potatoes that we had at Ba’Ghetto were especially delicious.

After a few attempts to recreate it, I tried a version with chicken fat that was spectacular. You can of course use duck fat or beef tallow instead. If serving with fish, use extra-virgin olive oil. Adding rosemary gives this simple side dish an extra Italian touch, as it grows wild throughout Italy and is used in many dishes in Italian cuisine.

5. Roast for 5 minutes, then flip fish and cook for another 5 minutes.

4. Arrange tomatoes and lemons on the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle everything with olive oil.

6. Turn oven to broil and broil for 3 minutes, until skin becomes slightly charred. Garnish with fresh basil.

Herb-Roasted Potatoes Serves: 4

Preheat oven to 400°F. Cube 4 large or 6 medium Yukon gold potatoes and place in a baking dish. Toss with ⅓ cup chicken fat, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Cover and cook for 30 minutes.

Toss potatoes and cook, uncovered, for another 6-12 minutes, until potatoes are crispy and cooked through.

A rose among thorns JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

35

TOP 10

C U L I N A RY L E SSO N S F RO M I TA LY

Salads

8

Italians don’t eat salads in the conventional sense.

Go to most restaurants, even touristy ones, and you will be met with bowls of vegetables, unapologetically unmixed and undressed, served with a side of lemon, balsamic, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Italians believe in cooking their vegetables.

Something very popular in Jewish cuisine is braised greens, sometimes cooked with anchovies; sometimes with raisins and pine nuts; and sometimes alone with some salt and pepper. We asked Italian cookbook author Benedetta Jasmine Guetta to share her version of this classic.

Spinaci con Pinoli e Passerine (Spinach with Pine Nuts and Raisins) Serves 4 Recipe reprinted with permission from Cooking alla Giudia by Benedetta Jasmine Guetta (Artisan Books).

Copyright © 2022.

Among the many ingredients that have been paired with the unmistakably Jewish combination of pine nuts and raisins, spinach is one of the favorites. This dish, which is considered a Jewish Venetian specialty, makes a great starter or side dish for the holidays. It is often served on Rosh Hashanah, because raisins and pine nuts are supposed to bring abundance and good luck for the coming year. The same custom exists for many Roman Jewish families.

½ 2 3 ½ 2

36

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

cup (60 g) raisins pounds (900 g) fresh spinach, trimmed tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil onion, finely chopped tablespoons pine nuts Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Drop the raisins into a small bowl filled with warm water and let soak until plumped.

2. Put the spinach in a large saucepan, add ½ cup (120 ml) water, cover, and cook over low heat for a few minutes, until wilted. (Italians tend to cook food longer than people do in the United States or the United Kingdom, so it’s OK if the spinach is really cooked and even a bit mushy.)

3. Drain in a colander, let cool, and then squeeze well to remove the excess water. Set aside.

4. In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender and translucent, about 5 minutes.

5. In the meantime, in a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over medium heat until they are gently browned, about a minute; be careful not to burn them. Remove from the heat and set aside.

6. Drain the raisins and pat dry.

7. Add the spinach, pine nuts, and raisins to the onions, season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir well to combine. Serve warm or at room temperature. www.fleishigs.com

ALL NATURAL

100% JUICE

NO HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP

TOP 10

CULINARY SCHOOL

C U L I N A RY L E SSO N S F RO M I TA LY

10

Savor the Moment

9 Fresh Truffles Fresh truffles (not oil!) are key to understanding the hype, something we experienced a lot in Italy. After our successful hunt for truffles in the mountains of Tuscany (see page 54 for more), we took our truffle treasures and headed to a cooking class. At the cooking class, our instructor grated some into olive oil, which he then added into tomato sauce and let it simmer to create an umami-rich tomato sauce that paired perfectly with the roasted eggplant Parmesan we cooked. It was a simple and minimalistic showing of a really expensive ingredient, summing up what Italian food is all about.

Truffle-Infused Tomato Sauce Yield: 5 cups

This sauce is an elevated version of a basic marinara and can be used anywhere marinara is called. Fresh truffles can be found in specialty markets or online.

Heat ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons freshly grated truffle and 1-2 minced garlic cloves; sauté for 1 minute, until fragrant. Lower heat to medium and add 4 cups tomato purée; cook for another 8-10 minutes.

T RU F F L E AT H O M E : Su re you c an source f re sh truf f l e s onl ine, b u t you c an also get the tru ffle ex pe rie nce w ithout the spl urge by pu rc hasing pre ser ved tru ffle s onl ine or in spe cia l ty s upermarket s. In fac t, Tu sc anini just a dde d a va rie ty of truf f l e p rodu c t s to their line of kosher It a l ia n-ma de goods — sl ice d b l ac k tru ffle, blac k tru ffle sau c e, mince d bl a ck truf f l e a nd truf f l e s a lt, sou rc ed from the highe st qu a l ity truf f l e s f rom Umbria , It a l y.

38

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

There is no rush when dining in Italy.

Italians are known for their ability to enjoy life and have mastered the art of slow living, also known as lo struscio, or being in the moment.

When dining out, this concept is apparent both in the languid manner that people dine and restaurants serve. We learned this quite quickly when we asked to order dessert in the middle of our meal (due to our very packed schedule and attempt to try as much food as possible).

Our waiter, an older Italian gentleman, outrightly refused our request; he told us to relax and reassured us that dessert would come later.

So we decided to patiently savor our veal milanese in the meantime. Lo struscio! www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Veal Milanese Serves: 8

Veal is a great versatile protein that is a welcome change from chicken. When cutlets are pounded thin and coated, you get a wonderful milanese (aka schnitzel). Every meat restaurant in Italy serves a version of this classic. We love to eat it with a wedge of lemon and a lightly dressed fresh salad.

1¼ 1 1 3 3 3 8

cups flour teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper eggs, beaten cups flavored bread crumbs tablespoons nutritional yeast, optional veal cutlets, pounded thinly Oil, for frying Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Create a dredging station with 3 plates. Mix flour, salt and pepper on one plate, beaten eggs on another and the bread crumbs and nutritional yeast (if desired) on the last.

2. Coat cutlets in flour, then eggs and finally bread crumbs.

3. Heat 1-inch of oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat.

Fry cutlets until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side.

Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

39

Modern Appliances That Make a Statement Experience appliances that are both intelligent and beautiful designed to entertain crowds of any size. Café appliances are both stylish and feature-packed. Get inspired by the latest innovations like ovens with air fry mode, refrigerators with instant hot water, or a convertible fridge freezer drawer.

Learn more New York City Showroom 3605 13th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 718.732.4900 DC Area (NoVa) Showroom 8500 Leesburg Pike, Tysons, VA 202.892.5000 Miami Showroom 2983 NE 163rd Street, Sunny Isles, FL 305.367.8200

SHABBOS KEEPER The industry’s most advanced kosher kitchen technology. This easy-to-install device revolutionized shabbos mode for ovens and refrigerators, automatically setting compatible refrigerators and ovens to Shabbos and Yom Tov. Café appliances with the Shabbos Keeper accessory are 100% kosher certified by the OU and CRC.

Connect with us: 800.570.3355 | www.ajmadison.com | sales@ajmadison.com

TRAVEL

Costiera Amalfitana BY: S H I F R A K L E I N , AS TO L D TO A N N A R A H M A N A N A N D E L I S H E VA TA I TZ B RO U G H T TO YO U BY: H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L

Something happens when you get to the Amalfi Coast, whether it’s your first time visiting or not.

42

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

TRAVEL

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

43

TRAVEL

A

Nestled on the western side of Italy's famous boot-shaped territory, the Amalfi Coast is, after all, one of the true wonders of the world — a destination so uniquely beautiful as to instantly provoke life-defining thoughts.

Overlooking the Gulf of Salerno and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the stretch of coastline in the southern part of Italy is named after the town of Amalfi, virtually the center of the 13 municipalities part of the world-famous shore. Some of the most well-renowned towns in the area include Positano, Ravello and Pontone.

After all, no photo of the destination — no matter how colorfully accurate or picturesque — could ever deliver the same feeling that gazing at the coast for even just a minute will imbue you with (it is, indeed, a UNESCO World Heritage Site!). Learning about the history of the destination only adds to its luster.

The history of the coast's pebbly beaches and colorful sea-side businesses is rich and convoluted, its importance tied to both its status as a major trading

s soon as you see the colorful houses and businesses that pepper the gorgeous Italian coastline, you start wondering what, exactly, you’ve been doing with your life until that very moment that has prevented you from steadily visiting the area throughout your life.

44

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

TRAVEL

Beware of the ruggedness of the roads you'll have to journey through,

hub and a quiet fishing village until Ferdinand II, the Bourbon King of Naples, commissioned the construction of roads connecting all the various towns across the southern coastline in the 19th century.

This was when one of the most gorgeous portions of Italy became accessible to the general public.

Fast-forward to today and the shore has become a major jet-setting destination, while also celebrating the best of Italy.

Expect gorgeous views; rugged roads

dating back to the Roman Empire that get narrower the closer you get to Amalfi; and the sorts of on-site activities that humanity’s devotion to technology has rendered even more delightful (think boat rides, water sports, swimming, hikes and visits to old towns).

It is a disservice to yourself to book a trip to Italy without visiting the Amalfi Coast. The region is a true testament to what natural geographical beauty stands to offer if we just let it be and remain committed to its preservation.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

45

TRAVEL

View from Monte Solaro in Capri

V

GENERAL INFORMATION GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND There are a few different ways to get to the Amalfi Coast.

One option involves flying into Naples, the closest big city with an airport, then driving 90 minutes to Amalfi. Beware, though, of the ruggedness of the roads you'll have to journey through, while also keeping in mind that this is one of the best ways to truly get a feel for what the region is all about.

Other options include a threehour bus ride from Rome to Amalfi or a 90 minute boat ride from Naples or Sorrento.

Once you’re on the coast, you can get around by car (rental or private driver), taxi, bus, ferry or boat (organized tour or private).

46

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

WHEN TO VISIT Amalfi Coast residents have to contend with the average change of season.

As a result, the best time to visit is during the summer when the weather is warm.

Official tourist season kicks off in April, peaks in June and July and wraps up around September or October. Fair warning: some major hotels may even close during the wet winters in January and February.

Grotta Azzurra in Capri

Spiaggia Grande in Positano

Vesuvius National Park

TRAVEL

WHAT TO DO T H E SMA L L , Q UA INT, C O LO RF UL TOWN S I N AMALFI ARE A D E LIGHT TO E X PLO RE . THE MOST P OPUL AR ON ES ARE R AV EL LO A ND P OS ITA NO, BUT THE RE I S N O SHORTAG E OF O PTIO NS.

BY SEA

BY LAND

1. Enjoy a variety of water sports, like snorkeling, kayaking, paddle boarding and more.

1. Visit Ravello, a town located in the hills, where you can visit Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo, centuries-old villas for the views and history. See What to Eat (following page) for more on Ravello.

2. Charter a private boat to take you to many different locations along the Amalfi Coast based on your preferences for the ultimate luxurious experience.

3. Book an organized boat tour ranging in duration, from a full-day tour to a quick sunset tour. Most boat tours will take you to various grottos and caves, which are a wonder to explore.

4. Take a one-hour ferry ride to spend a day on the island of Capri, which is known for its stunning beaches, views and shopping. A ride on the famous Monte Solaro chairlift will give you breathtaking panoramic views.

5. Visit one of the many beaches, but arrive early especially during peak season. Spiaggia Grande in Positano offers free beach access and also has an exclusive section where you can rent lounge chairs and umbrellas for a fee. Fornillo Beach is another beach on Positano that has a minimal entrance fee and is a bit quieter than Spiaggia Grande.

2. There are a number of popular hikes, some easier than others, to take advantage of and all offer breathtaking views.

3. Visit old towns and go shopping for locally-made products, from ceramics, trinkets and jewelry to clothing and leather shoes.

4. The Amalfi Coast is most known for its limoncello, a sweet liqueur made from lemons that are grown across terraced gardens all over the coast between February and October. Needless to say, the sea of yellow trees adds a touch of character to the already personalityfilled destination. Fun fact: the lemons used to prepare the liqueur are called the Sorrento variety because they are grown in the eponymous southwestern coastal town.

WHAT TO EAT CHABAD OF NAPLES Although there are no kosher restaurants throughout the shore and virtually no access to kosher food, the Chabad of Naples is a very useful resource. Call in advance and they'll prepare a whole stock of fare that will be delivered to you via boat. Their Shabbat specials are particularly delicious and everything is kosher certified.

AVIGAIL KOSHER KITCHEN IN RAVELLO Located higher in the hills (whereas some other towns are right along the water), Ravello is a charming town only a 20-minute bus ride from Amalfi. Although not officially certified kosher, Dayana Avigail Shoshana is a kosher and Shabbat-keeping local who opened a quaint restaurant on the veranda of her own home on the Amalfi Coast, where she prepares all the meals according to the laws of kashrut. Dairy meals are cholov yisroel, meat meals are glatt kosher and all of the products used are kosher certified. Although we did not have a chance to experience this service personally, we were impressed

by Dayana’s devotion to kosher keeping travelers and felt it was worth mentioning. Dayana can arrange for private chef services in your own home rental, cooking classes (pasta and pizza), food to-go and even has a simple bed-and-breakfast for lodging. As always, please do your own research to determine your own kashrut standards. For more information and to find Dayana’s direct contact number, visit kasher.altervista. org/kosher-amalfi/avigailkitchen.html.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

47

TRAVEL

Villa TreVille in Positano

WHERE TO STAY TH ER E AR E A TO N O F HOTE LS A L L THRO UGHO UT THE AMALFI COAST, FROM H IG H - E N D O PT IONS TO S MA L L E R, BO UTIQ UE O NES. HOME RENTALS (I.E .

A I RBNB) A RE RE A D ILY AVA IL A BL E AS WELL .

One of the most luxurious options in the area is the 5-star destination Villa TreVille in Positano. With only 16 rooms available for booking at any given moment, the relatively new and under-the-radar cliff-side lodge actually used to be the home of Franco Zeffirelli, the late former senator and prolific opera and theater director.

You'll notice the politician's touch all throughout the hotel, from in-room soaking tubs, heated bathroom floors and more.

But the most unique aspect of a stay at the TreVille is a culinary one — the hotel grows its own produce and guests are allowed to walk around the garden and choose what foods the chef should cook. Kosher-wise, you're in luck — not only will the staff cook in separate pans for you, but everyone on site is more than willing to accommodate dietary restrictions. They'll even have kosher wine and milk available upon your arrival, just make sure to give them a heads up!

48

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

TRAVEL

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

49

TRAVEL

Exploring the Beauty

of Florence and B RO U G H T TO YO U BY: H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L

50

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

d Beyond

TRAVEL

From its rich history to its lush scenery, Florence (the capital of Italy's Tuscany region) is on travelers' bucket lists for good reason.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

51

TRAVEL

WHAT TO DO ART & HISTORY Just as is the case across many other Italian towns, perusing Florence by foot feels a bit like visiting an outdoor museum. However, in this case, the city actually is a principal player in the history of the world's art. Here is where the Renaissance was born; where the Florentine dialect morphed into the base of the standard Italian language now spoken all throughout the country; where the world-renowned Uffizi Gallery has claimed its permanent location; and where some of the most important pieces of art in the world are on display, including Michelangelo’s David.

Speaking of Michelangelo, among the must-dos is a visit to Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset, one of the main town

squares that happens to be a city landmark. The viewpoint was built by local architect Giuseppe Poggi back in 1869 as a way to show off the artist's best works (the café on premises was supposed to be a museum dedicated to Michelangelo's art!). Today, it’s where you’ll find most locals kick off their night out alongside tourists that want to catch the very best view of the Tuscan town.

Among other historical markers worth paying attention to are a ton of local bridges, with one particular standout — Ponte Vecchio.

The only such bridge to have survived World War II intact, Ponte Vecchio is home to a vast variety of shops (famous for jewelry and leather goods) by its edges and to a famous elevated corridor that connects the Uffizi Gallery to Palazzo Pitti, an amalgamation of five different museums.

The Great Synagogue of Florence

JEWISH CULTURE The Jewish community of Florence dates back to the early 1300s, when Jews from Southern Italy moved up north for financial opportunities and the first synagogue was formed. The community slowly grew and remained intact through the next few centuries, even staying strong when, in 1571, the Pope instituted the Jewish Ghetto, where the Jews were forced to live until 1848 when the ghetto was abolished.

Ponte Vecchio 52

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

The community rallied and worked to build a synagogue, known today as The Great Synagogue of Florence (Sinagoga e Museo Ebraico di

Firenze) that was completed in 1882. It was built in Moorish-style architecture to emphasize inspiration from a source other than local churches that didn’t use Moorish style. It’s one of the largest synagogues in Southern Europe and has a unique dome that is apparent in most aerial views of the city. It has inspired the design of other synagogues around the world. During World War II, the Nazis occupied the synagogue and upon their retreat to Germany in 1944, laid explosives to destroy the synagogue. Local Italian resistance fighters defused

TRAVEL

Chabad House

most of the explosives and only a limited amount of damage was done. The synagogue was fully restored after the war.

The Great Synagogue is open all week (email the shul prior to your visit to book Shabbat services) and within its structure there is a Jewish museum that shares the wonderful rich history of the Jews of Florence — a truly inspirational visit. Visiting the museum is an immersive historical learning experience.

I N T E R E ST I N G LY, A L L O F T H E J E W I S H A N D KOS H E R E STA B L I S H M E N TS I N F LO R E N C E ( T H E G R E AT SY N AG O G U E O F F LO R E N C E , T H E T WO KOS H E R R E STAU R A N TS A N D T H E LO CA L C H A BA D O F F LO R E N C E ) A R E A L L S I T UAT E D W I T H I N T H E SA M E B LO C K .

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

53

TRAVEL

WITHIN M I N U T E S, WE FO U N D OUR F I RST T RU F F L E .

TRUFFLE HUNTING Truffles are earthy, mushroom-like treasures coveted by chefs worldwide that can only be found by animals trained to sniff and dig the truffles without ruining it. They vary in size from tiny 2-inch bulbs to as large as a 200-gram tennis ball. Because it is so laborious to source, truffles are quite expensive and can cost anywhere from $5-$300 per gram.

54

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

There are different types of truffles that grow in different seasons — white (winter) truffles are the most coveted, black (summer) truffles are second and then there are rose (spring) truffles, which are also delicious but not as expensive.

We went truffle hunting in March and hunted for rose truffles, which were plentiful in the hour that we hunted. We took a very small walk into the woods and the trainer sent the dogs out to start sniffing. Within minutes we found our

first truffle. It was fascinating to watch the action and see firsthand how truffles are sourced. It gives one an appreciation for the workings of nature and is an immersive experience in one of the most prized produce possessions.

It’s best to come dressed for walking in the woods, but truffle hunting isn’t a physically draining activity. As you are far from any food sources, come well prepared with snacks and drinks. While we dreamed of taking the truffles home with us, we sadly had to leave them, as it isn’t legal to transport truffles from Italy

TRAVEL

COOKING CLASS High Class Travel arranged for a one-of-a-kind cooking class with a chef who also happened to be a resident of the very small Jewish community of Siena.

With our truffles in hand, we drove the scenic route from the woods of Tuscany to Siena, where we cooked up an Italian feast. The chef grated fresh truffles into a pan of hot oil and added tomato purée to the mix. We rolled out fresh pasta, cooked it al dente in salted boiling water, then mixed it with the simple tomato sauce. It was served alongside bubbly eggplant Parmesan and roasted tomatoes (read more about the tomatoes on page 34). Dessert was a decadent homemade tiramisu and of course there was some Italian wine to savor.

Carving out a few hours to sip wine, cook with no rush and learn new tips and tricks along the way was an unforgettable experience.

to the United States, and it would be difficult to maintain its freshness (truffles only last 2-3 days wrapped in cloth and refrigerated, although they can be frozen to maintain freshness). You can source truffle products online; we have found truffle paste, truffle salt and truffle zest to be the best ways to replace authentic truffle flavor in dishes like pasta sauce.

Read more about truffles on page 38.

The agents at High Class Travel are experts in luxury travel.

They are your insider source for high-end hotels, business and first class travel and all the perks that come along with it.

They also specialize in maximizing your unused credit card points. Visit @hctravelcollection on Instagram or highclasstravel.com for more and to book your next getaway.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

55

TRAVEL

SIENA'S HISTORIC SYNAGOGUE The historic synagogue in Siena where we took the cooking class was built by Florentine architect Giuseppe del Rosso in 1781 and refurbished after World War II. It is a beautiful, historic, inspiring synagogue that was a special part of our trip In Siena.

As stunning as it is on the inside, perhaps the most interesting part of the design involves its facade, which was erected during the times of the Jewish Ghetto to resemble anything but a shul in order to deter folks from knowing it was there. As you walk inside, it's astounding to see the beauty and history the synagogue holds. It was a true experience to take an Italian cooking class in the synagogue's kitchen.

56

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

Are We Milchig Yet? No matter if its three hours or six, the cheesy taste kids dream of is worth the wait!

Made with wholesome ingredients without artificial flavors or colors.

TRAVEL

WHERE TO STAY SO REPL E T E W IT H S PL E ND O R IS E VE RY INC H O F F LO R EN CE TH AT S E L ECT IN G T HE RIGHT HOTE L TO STAY AT W HI LE I N TOW N B EC O M E S A TAS K O F UBE R IMP O RTA NC E — HOW ELSE CA N YO U CAR RY T HE MAGIC THAT D E F INE S THE ITA LI AN D E ST IN ATIO N INTO YO UR D RE A MS?

One perfectly great option is Villa Cora in Viale Machiavelli, not too far from the Giardino di Boboli. Consider the lodgings an extension of the art-adjacent experience that is a walk around Florence. Villa Cora is basically a five-star-hotel-meets-museum experience.

Originally built as an aristocratic residence at the end of the 19th century, the space turned into a hotel in 1960 and was restored and renovated in late 2010. Today, while still boasting its original aristocratic glory, the lodging has been recognized as one of the most beautiful hotels in the world. Some additional amenities include an outdoor heated pool, full service spa and bikes available to guests.

58

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

TRAVEL

Villa Cora has been recognized as one of the most beautiful hotels in the world.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

59

TRAVEL

WHAT TO EAT R IG H T ACROSS THE A RNO RIVE R A RE THE T WO KOSHER R ESTAU R A NTS IN F LO RE NC E — BA’GHE T TO, ON E OF FOUR SU CH LOCATIO NS THRO UGHO UT ITA LY, AND RUT H'S, A FAM ILY-RU N, NE IGHBO RHO O D JO INT THAT HAS BEEN AROUN D FO R D ECA D E S.

BA’GHETTO Ba’Ghetto feels like a modern Italian bistro with spacious indoor-outdoor dining spaces.

Like its Rome location, you can order food for Shabbat (in advance) and it’s conveniently located steps away from Chabad of Florence and The Great Synagogue. Our favorites were the Gricia-style rigatoni with artichokes; baked lamb; spaghetti carbonara; and mixed grill.

RUTH’S The menu at Ruth's is an amalgamation of Israeli food alongside Roman Jewish classics and light vegetarian fare. The place is owned by a local cantor who works alongside his daughter and is full of character and kindness.

Order the cheese blintzes; Moroccan couscous; fried sardines; and, of course, Carciofi alla Giudia (Jewish fried artichokes).

Fried sardines from Ruth's

As there are no official breakfast spots in Florence, you can enjoy some instant oats, fresh fruit, nuts and coffee. You can request cholov yisroel milk from Ruth’s for your morning coffee in the hotel, which really enhanced our breakfast experience.

Mixed Israeli tapas and Carciofi alla Giudia from Ruth's

60

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

TRAVEL

LANDMARKS OUTSIDE OF FLORENCE:

EXPLORE SAN GIMIGNANO On the way back from Siena to Tuscany, we stopped at the ancient village of San Gimignano, famous for its fully intact 13th century walls and medieval houses.

It’s a tourist attraction, so shops are fully stocked with leather goods, olive oil and limoncello. It’s also a stunning spot for photos and exploring.

PISA A one-hour train ride or 90-minute car drive from Florence will also take you to the middle of Pisa, known for its incredible Leaning Tower. Pisa, however, also happens to be home to the oldest Jewish community in Tuscany. In fact, Jews settled in Pisa as early as 850 CE and it continued to be a safe haven to Jews who were expelled from other regions across Italy and Europe. Unlike

Florence, Siena and Rome, Pisa never had a Jewish Ghetto. There is even a Jewish cemetery located just outside Piazza dei Miracoli, a center of Florence owned by the Catholic church. It’s fascinating to tour remnants of Jewish communities of the past.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

61

TRAVEL

The Best of All Worlds

A Kosher Winery and Iconic Castle Collide BY: N EC H A M A M A RC U S N EST L E D IN PICTURE SQ UE TU SCAN Y L IES A KOS HE R WINE RY A N D R ESTAURA NT UNL IK E AN Y T H IN G E LSE IN THE WO RL D.

62

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

TRAVEL

T

uscany – the mere word evokes thoughts of enchantment and timeless beauty.

Travelers from all over the world come to lose themselves in its splendor and create unforgettable memories. It's no surprise that Tuscany's tranquil surroundings make it the number one destination for weddings and events around the globe, with visitors traveling from as far as New Zealand to create moments of pure magic.

Visiting a winery in the hills of Tuscany is on the itinerary of most tourists and there are two wineries that are a must for the kosher traveler visiting this region — Terra di Seta (see more on page 82) and Cantina Guiliano. Eli and Lara Gauthier run Cantina Guiliano, an exclusively kosher winery and restaurant that offers visitors a variety of unique activities from truffle hunting and cooking classes to gourmet meals and wine tastings. A visit to Cantina Guiliano is truly enjoyable and memorable. The restaurant offers the kind of food Jewish travelers can barely dream of, with locally-inspired dishes that showcase the decadent flavors of Tuscany.

Nestled in the picturesque rolling hills of San Ruffino, a five-minute drive from Cantina Giuliano, lies Il Castello di San Ruffino, a historic castle-turned hotel built by a marquis over 400 years ago. The recently renovated rooms are tastefully designed. Pierluigi Cioni, a company CEO and hotel director with 20 years of experience, is dedicated to creating a new kind of hospitality experience. Piero, as he prefers to be called, knows how to take a noble approach to hospitality. His philosophy is to treat visitors as guests rather than clients.

Piero's friendship with Eli has resulted in a unique and exciting collaboration to offer kosher food and top notch service at Il Castello di San Ruffino.

Eli’s vision is to bring top-notch Tuscan hospitality and unrivaled kosher experiences to the iconic castle.

The grounds are ideal for intimate celebrations like Bar Mitzvahs, family

Pierluigi Cioni JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

63

TRAVEL

reunions and small weddings. For larger events, Eli can work with guests to provide all the necessary kosher services. Piero, a friendly and gracious host, has already thought about the kosher and Shabbat needs of travelers and smaller groups.

There's a private kitchen with refrigerators, electric hot plates and hot water urns where food can be stored and heated. Guests can bring their own provisions or order from Eli. Stay tuned! Eli and Piero are enthusiastic about discussing and creating even more conveniences for Jewish visitors in the future.

FO R E V EN TS A N D L A RG E GRO UPS, P I E R LUIG I CAN B E C O NTACTE D AT I N FO @ I LCAST E L LO D ISANRUF F INO.C O M. C O N TACT EL I GAU T H IER FO R SA MPL E KOS H E R M E N U S A N D ME A L S E RVIC E S AT CA N TI NAG IU L IA N O @ G MA IL .C O M.

64

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

With

If you’re tired of all the same daily chores and routines, get ready to cultivate a more beautiful life. Join Nitza Loketch on her new show, NITZA NATURALLY, as she elevates the mundane (bed making!) and the usual to an art. Searching for treasures on a vintage crawl, tablescaping, floral arranging, interior styling- watch and learn as Nitza “chics” things up!

SEASON 1 STREAMING NOW

Heart.Works

A New OriginalSeries

Fleishigs

We want to share our issues with you.

(At a very special rate).

Get a year of Fleishigs goodness & save up to 24% off the newsstand rate.

($66 value)

l Deasubscription Bes2t year

22

ISSUES

only

$

99

00 *

($132 value)

Mail information to Fleishigs LLC, 530 Arlington Rd, Cedarhurst NY 11516. Email hello@fleishigs.com for more information or visit www.fleishigs.com to subscribe. *Includes shipping in the U.S. Outside the U.S. Standard Shipping Rates apply.

Canada: $22 per year, International: $35 per year.

D O N E

55

00

W E L L

$

Gift Subscription

Personal Subscription

Name Address City/State/Zip Phone Email Credit Card Information (or pay by check or money order) Credit Card Number Expiration Date

Security Code

A

only

A R E

11

ISSUES

*

W E

1 year subscription

M E D I U M

Enjoy the discount, and getting the inside scoop on all things meat before your sister-in-law, your mother-in-law, and the yenta next door. Hmmm, delicious.

Visa / Mastercard / American Express Name on Card Address City/State/Zip

order online: fleishigs.com | email: hello@fleishigs.com | call: 917.703.8145

BACK POCKET

DISHES INSPIRED BY THE PRODUCE OF ITALY Tomatoe s and zucchini are incredibly versatile and used all throughout It alian cuisine, in both sweet and savor y applications. Here is a round up of recipe s that showcase s both ingredient s in many applications.

BY: A D I N A S I L B E R M A N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

67

BACK POCKET

Fresh Tomatoes with Olive Oil This is more of a method than an exact recipe — it’s that easy to prepare and plate.

Plus, it packs a punch and truly highlights the humble tomato. Use larger tomatoes, such as Campari, Roma or beefsteak, and either thinly slice or cut into wedges. If you can find heirloom tomatoes, that’s even better! If smaller tomatoes are all you have, such as grape or cherry, the salad can be just as good, simply halve them or serve whole.

NOTE: I prefer to use a white serving dish to help showcase the beautiful colors of the seasonal tomatoes.

TOMATOES I didn’t know until recently that there are “tomato people” and “not tomato people.” I am definitely a tomato person! I eat tomatoes all year round because we are lucky enough to live in a time when they are readily available despite sometimes being off season. Tomatoes are arguably tastier and more delicious in the summer. Here are recipes that will help you use tomatoes all year round, whether fresh from the market or found in the back of your fridge, whether at peak season or not, they can be enjoyable all the same!

68

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

Extra-virgin olive oil Tomatoes of any color, variety and size (see head note) Jalapeño pepper, seeded and thinly sliced Fresh chives, minced Maldon salt and coarsely cracked black pepper, for sprinkling Crusty bread, for serving

1. Pour a generous amount of extra-virgin olive oil onto a large serving dish.

2. Top with tomatoes, jalapeños and chives. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with crusty bread.

www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

GET DRIZZY. JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

69

BACK POCKET

Golden Tomato and Herb Salmon Serves: 2-4

Feel free to use this golden tomato and herb mixture as a dip or served warm over couscous.

FOR THE SALMON: 4 (6-ounce) fillets salmon 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon paprika 2 tablespoons olive oil FOR THE GOLDEN TOMATO AND HERB SALAD: 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 cups yellow grape tomatoes, halved 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon paprika ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional ¼ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped fresh dill 1. Season salmon with salt, pepper and paprika.

2. Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat until glistening. Sear salmon for 2 minutes per side. Remove from the skillet and set aside.

3. For the tomato and herb salad, heat oil in the same skillet over medium-high heat until glistening. Add garlic and sauté until lightly golden brown. Add tomatoes, then season with salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne pepper (if desired). Sauté until tomatoes begin to brown and soften, about 10 minutes. Add herbs and cook for 1 minute.

4. Nestle salmon back into the skillet and cook for 2 minutes, basting with tomatoes.

70

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

High stakes meetings happen here.

Now open for lunch MONDAY – THURSDAY, 12:30-4 PM Artisanal Salads | Specialty Sushi Gourmet Sandwiches | Raw Bar Fresh Fish | Signature Steaks

700 Cedarbridge Avenue, Lakewood, NJ 08701 732.724.5001 • tomahawksteakhouse.net LUNCH MONDAY – THURSDAY, 12:30-4

DINNER SUNDAY – THURSDAY, 5-10:30

HOM

BACK POCKET

EM

AD E

N -D

IE

R

Preheat oven to 300°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 2 cups halved grape tomatoes, cut-side up, on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 2-3 hours, until tomatoes are dried and shriveled.

V

These oven-dried tomatoes can be used in so many ways — try the sweet or savory recipes that follow and serve with sourdough or challah for a delicious, elevated Shabbos dip.

O

Yield: 2 cups

E

Homemade Oven-Dried Tomatoes

D

T

O

M

AT

OE

S

Sweet Maple Oven-Dried Tomatoes Add Homemade Oven-Dried Tomatoes (recipe above) to a jar with just enough maple syrup to coat the tomatoes. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

72

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

Savory Herb Oven-Dried Tomatoes Add Homemade OvenDried Tomatoes (recipe above) to a jar with just enough extra-virgin olive oil to coat the tomatoes. Add a few sprigs of fresh oregano and a few garlic cloves.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

73

BACK POCKET

Chicken Pops with OvenDried Tomatoes and Spicy Amba Mayonnaise Serves: 4-6

The first iteration of this recipe was born out of leftover ground chicken and a preheated deep fryer. Incredibly flavorful and full of texture, the current recipe takes further inspiration from a dish served at Noi Due Carne in New York City. The sweet oven-dried tomatoes pair perfectly with the spicy mayonnaise for the perfect bite.

FOR THE CHICKEN MIXTURE: 1 pound ground chicken or turkey 1 egg 1½ cups panko bread crumbs, divided ¼ cup ketchup 3 cloves garlic, grated 2 teaspoons maple syrup ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil, for frying FOR SERVING: Sweet Maple Oven-Dried Tomatoes (recipe above) Spicy Amba Mayonnaise (recipe follows) 1. Mix ground chicken, egg, ½ cup bread crumbs, ketchup, garlic, maple syrup, salt and pepper until well combined. Set aside on the counter to firm up for 15 minutes.

2. Divide chicken mixture into 16-18 (1-1½ tablespoon-sized) portions; roll into smooth balls. Place remaining 1 cup bread crumbs into a bowl and coat each prepared meatball in bread crumbs.

3. Heat 2 inches of vegetable oil in a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven until hot and glistening, being sure not to overcrowd the pot. Fry each meatball for 5-6 minutes, until golden brown and meat is cooked through. Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer meatballs to a wire cooling rack or paper towel-lined plate.

4. To serve, spear 2-3 oven-dried tomatoes on a toothpick, followed by a meatball. Serve with spicy amba mayonnaise.

74

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

Spicy Amba Mayonnaise Yield: heaping ¼ cup

Mix ¼ cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons amba and 1 tablespoon chili sauce.

www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

POPS THAT ROCK JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

75

BACK POCKET

Shaved Zucchini Salad with Chickpea and Pistachio Topping Serves: 4-6

I love to use a mandoline for this salad, but using a vegetable peeler will accomplish the same effect. Raw zucchini is such a great base for this salad because it soaks up the flavor of the bright dressing and is enhanced by the fresh herbs. For the salad, use a combination of whatever herbs you desire.

FOR THE CHICKPEA AND PISTACHIO TOPPING: 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed ½ cup toasted crushed pistachios 1 tablespoon olive oil Zest of 1 lemon ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper FOR THE VINAIGRETTE: ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 1 clove garlic, grated ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper FOR THE SALAD: 2 medium zucchini, thinly sliced lengthwise (see head note) 2 medium yellow squash, thinly sliced lengthwise (see head note) 1 onion, thinly sliced ¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh dill, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh mint, finely chopped 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Pat chickpeas with paper towels, then roughly mash on the prepared baking sheet. Toss with pistachios, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Roast for 10 minutes.

3. Whisk vinaigrette ingredients until well combined.

4. Arrange salad ingredients in a large bowl and lightly toss with vinaigrette. Top with chickpea and pistachio topping.

76

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

ZUCCHINI Zucchini is a highly versatile ingredient in cooking and a great option to have on hand. It can be used in a wide variety of dishes and is a healthy addition to any meal. Its mild flavor and tender texture make it an easy ingredient to incorporate into many different types of cuisine.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

77

BACK POCKET

Zucchini Carpaccio Serves: 4-6

Inspired by eggplant carpaccio, the zucchini shines in this application and pairs wonderfully with the dressing. This method also works with roasted eggplant.

FOR THE ZUCCHINI: 6-8 large zucchini, halved lengthwise 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt FOR THE DRESSING: 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon honey 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon grated ginger ¼ teaspoon cumin ¼ teaspoon coriander 1 tablespoon chili paste, optional FOR THE GARNISH: 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.

2. Place zucchini, cut-side up, on the prepared baking sheet.

Drizzle with oil and season with salt. Roast for 20-25 minutes, until golden. Flip and roast for another 20-25 minutes. Let cool slightly.

3. Place cooked zucchini in a colander and gently press it against the side of the colander to strain out some of the moisture.

Let the zucchini strain for about 5 minutes, then press again and let it strain for another 5 minutes.

4. For the dressing, whisk all ingredients together until combined.

5. Transfer zucchini to a serving dish and use the back of a fork to lightly mash it. Drizzle with dressing and garnish with fresh herbs.

78

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

Marinated Golden Zucchini Serves: 2-4

The preparation of this zucchini is reminiscent of the method used in Italian Jewish cooking. The zucchini is cooked (or grilled) until golden, then marinated. The zucchini has time to soak up all the delicious flavors of the marinade and take on a new texture. I first tried this dish on a trip to Italy last fall and was blown away.

The preparation is easy enough that you can be transported to the beautiful country from the comfort of your own home.

NOTE: I recommend searing in a skillet, but see below for two alternate cooking methods. ¼ 2 2 2 2 2 ½

cup olive oil, divided large zucchinis, thinly sliced into rounds tablespoons white wine vinegar tablespoons finely chopped parsley tablespoons finely chopped mint teaspoons grated garlic teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat, until glistening. Sear zucchini until golden brown on both sides, about 8-10 minutes total.

2. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, vinegar, parsley, mint, garlic, salt and pepper to taste.

3. Once zucchini is cooked, toss with marinade. Cover and let marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours before serving, up to overnight.

CHANGE IT UP: OVEN: Roast zucchini on a greased baking sheet in a 400°F oven for 20 minutes, flipping halfway through.

GRILL: Cut zucchini lengthwise into ¼-inch strips. Toss with 1-2 tablespoons oil. Grill for 2-3 minutes per side.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

79

BACK POCKET

Zucchini Olive Oil Loaf Cake Serves: 8-10

The reason to make this zucchini cake (or “cucumber cake,” as my 3-year-old daughter fondly calls it) isn’t to hide a vegetable, rather the texture and flavor are winners! Serve it for breakfast or as a dessert.

80

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

2 1 ½ ½ 1 1 ½ ¼ ¼ 1 1½ ½ 1½ ¼

eggs cup sugar cup olive oil cup applesauce teaspoon baking soda teaspoon baking powder teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon ginger teaspoon nutmeg teaspoon pure vanilla extract cups all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt cups grated zucchini cup pepitas, optional

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan; set aside.

2. Whisk eggs, sugar, oil and applesauce. Add baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and vanilla. Slowly add flour and salt; mix until just combined, then gently fold in zucchini.

3. Pour batter into the prepared loaf pan. Sprinkle pepitas on top. Bake for 55-65 minutes, until a knife or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and the edges are browned.

www.fleishigs.com

PRODUCT OF USA

, OT O! G U

V OKIE CO

FL

N EA NWI L L A B&A R

G S OR I H S I E ERE YO N H

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

Revisiting Terra di Seta:

The Jewel of Tuscany BY: YA E L E . G E L L E R

82

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

A

visit to Italy is always a fun-filled adventure. Is it the beautiful facade of the country? The friendly people? Or is it the delicious cuisine that is so essential to its history and culture? Undoubtedly, all these things (and more) make it a wonderful place to visit. We had plans to make another visit to Italy in 2021, and while COVID-19 lockdowns ruptured those plans, we hope to reschedule soon to see our dear friends Daniele and Maria Della Seta in Tuscany and fully immerse ourselves in their world and the beauty of the vineyards of the Terra di Seta winery. I look forward to enjoying and learning more about the rich history of the Della Seta-Pelligrini’s deep connection to Italy, winemaking and food culture in Italy.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

83

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

Italian wine has been in the spotlight for as long as history has been recorded. The soil is primed with rich minerals and rocks that lend tremendous power to vineyards and grape rootstocks to make some of the world’s most prestigious, soughtafter wines. Italian wines have a trademark trait of bracing acidity that makes them easy to identify in a blind tasting, unlike other wines in the world. If you had asked me just a few years ago how kosher wines from Italy were developing, my answer would be — slowly. However, it’s different now. Today, kosher wine production in Italy has more than tripled, with many new brands hitting the markets with each passing year. The Della Seta family is no stranger to making kosher wines, as they are practically the OGs of kosher wine in Tuscany. Starting in 2001, the family operated as wine growers and small producers. In 2008, their dream of bringing a fully kosher winery to Tuscany finally became a reality.

Italian wines have a trademark trait of bracing acidity that makes them easy to identify in a blind tasting, unlike other wines in the world.

84

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

Daniele holds a Ph.D. in biology and Maria comes from three generations of winemakers and restaurateurs. The two have the perfect backgrounds to harmoniously foster the growth and development of a successful winery and newly added restaurant in the heart of Italy’s premier wine country. Daniele hails from an ancient Roman family, which he can trace back over 2,000 years. Maria hails from an old Tuscan family, born in Livorno, with deep roots in Pitigliano, known in Italy as “Little Jerusalem.”

Daniele always appreciated the appearance of wine at Shabbat and holidays, but it was only when he met Maria that his love and passion for fine wines grew. The Pellegrini family’s Italian roots are deep, with a powerful connection and knowledge about wine for many generations.

They also operate many restaurants across the region. The winery boasts a beautiful tasting room and a restaurant (the family’s ninth restaurant).

Daniele and Maria are no strangers to seasonal visitors at the winery and enjoy meeting old fans and creating new ones. They offer a tour of their vineyards, cooking classes of Italian and family classics in their restaurant and a full dairy restaurant. Arrangements before a trip to Tuscany can be made and modified for most guests, and the Della Seta family are the most gracious and humble hosts you can find. There are apartments and rooms available for visitors (reserve on their website) to book for their trip to obtain the most out of the winery experience.

www.fleishigs.com

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

In Italian culture, wine is always on the table, with or without rich Italian foods including excellent quality olive oils, homemade tomato concoctions and delicious cheese or rich meat dishes. Daniele shares that his favorite way to enjoy Chianti wines is either with a selection of aged cheeses (like Pecorino Romano or Parmesan) or with a roasted leg of lamb with olive oil, rosemary and potatoes. Each part of Italy has its strengths in the types of wine the region makes. In Tuscany, we divide the Chianti region into several designations or subregions. Chianti Classico is the most prestigious and there are three levels: Chianti Classico Annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione. Terra di Seta offers wines from each of these three levels.

Analogous in many ways to the regulations in the wine-growing regions of France and Spain, the restrictions on the classification of each wine coming from each area are quite complex. A Chianti Classico must be aged for at least 11 months, the Riserva for 24 months and the highest, most sought-after wines, the Gran Selezione, for a minimum of 30 months.

Newly added to the Terra di Seta lineup is a new wine category that we have been waiting to see in the kosher market for some time — Guiduccio

is a Super Tuscan wine, a selection chosen and created by the Pellegrini-Della Seta family and their winemaker Enrico Paternoster. The definition of a Super Tuscan wine uses indigenous grapes like Sangiovese, but also embraces other popular European varietals like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was first harvested in 2020, yielded 3,000 bottles and is made of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was time for the family to embrace this prized category of wine popularized by many in the Italian wine industry since the 1970s. This wine uses the best of the best from the Della Seta vineyards.

The name Guiduccio is the nickname of Guido, a significant given name in the family for five generations. Like this name, handed down over time, this wine comes from a project born and developed some years ago. It has the potential to age for many, many years to come, creating memories and marking special occasions in the future. All the wines from Terra di Seta are made with a prominent character and elegance.

I hope you will enjoy exploring the Terra di Seta experience at home and in Tuscany soon.

L’chaim!

All the wines from Terra di Seta are made with a prominent character and elegance.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

85

Send Your Love to Camp While they’re making memories, you can help make their day. Treat your camper to a dairy-free, Kosher pareve surprise.

KOSHER PAREVE

Enjoy 20% off with code Pomegranate, Brooklyn • Moishes, Brooklyn

FLEISHIGS

• Gourmet Glatt, Lakewood • Sarah’s Tent, Aventura

• Grove, Surfside

7thheavenchocolate.com | @7thheavenchocolate

86-89 -SomethingSweet-FL48.indd 86

30.05.23 22:18

SOMETHING SWEET

La Dolce Vita

F RO M L I M O N C E L LO TO C H O C O L AT EH A Z E L N U T S P R E A D, W H E T H E R T H ROW I N G TO G E T H E R A C L ASS I C B U N DT CA K E O R F RY I N G D O U G H N U TS, D R AW I N S P I R AT I O N F RO M SO M E B E LOV E D I TA L I A N F L AVO RS FO R YO U R N E XT D E SS E RT.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

87

SOMETHING SWEET

Limoncello Bundt Cake Serves: 12

By: Naomi Elberg

This recipe is inspired by the famous Harvey Wallbanger cake, but with a twist. If you can’t find kosher limoncello, you can use any other liqueur, like amaretto in the original version.

FOR THE CAKE: 1 stick (8 tablespoons) + 1 tablespoon non-dairy butter substitute, softened 2 cups sugar 4 large eggs ¾ cup orange juice ¼ cup vodka ¼ cup limoncello ½ teaspoon pure vanilla or lemon extract 1 (2.8-ounce) package instant vanilla pudding mix, such as Osem 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder FOR THE GLAZE: 2 cups confectioners’ sugar 1 tablespoon oil ½-1 teaspoon limoncello or pure lemon extract ¼-½ cup boiling water 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously grease and flour a Bundt pan; set aside.

2. Add butter and sugar to the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment; mix until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix until incorporated. Add orange juice, vodka, limoncello, extract and pudding mix; mix until combined.

3. In a small bowl, mix flour and baking powder; slowly add to the mixer and mix until just incorporated.

Pour batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Bake for 45-60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted comes out clean.

Let cool.

4. For the glaze, mix confectioners’ sugar, oil and limoncello. Slowly add boiling water while whisking; glaze should be super thick. Transfer to a Ziploc bag, cut the corner and glaze cake once completely cooled. To make it boozier, thin out with more limoncello.

88

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

SOMETHING SWEET

Zeppole Serves: 6

By: Shifra Klein

Traditionally made with a pâte à choux dough (find a recipe from issue #44 on the Fleishigs app) and sometimes leftover pizza dough, Italian zeppole are the ultimate doughnut holes. We had an outstanding version at Fonzie, a meat restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto of Rome. Light and airy golden balls of fried dough were served hot and drizzled with a generous amount of high-quality Italian chocolate-hazelnut spread. It was served street food-style with lots of toothpicks for picking.

We used pizza dough for a quick and easy shortcut!

NOTE: This recipe calls for prepared pizza dough (not pizza crust). If you don’t want to make your own (check out the no-knead pizza dough recipe from issue #24 on the Fleishigs app) and can’t find balls of frozen dough in the grocery store, ask your local kosher pizzeria to sell you some — most will accommodate!

1

pound prepared pizza dough, thawed Oil, for deep frying Chocolate hazelnut spread Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1. Place thawed pizza dough in a greased bowl, cover and set aside at room temperature for 60 minutes.

2. Heat oil to 355°F in a large heavybottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. (Don’t start on high heat, start building heat slowly for optimal results.)

3. Divide dough into tablespoonsized balls; fry until puffed and golden brown, about 4-5 minutes.

4. Drain on a paper towel-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with chocolate hazelnut spread and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

89

A DAY FULL OF CONTENT, THAT WILL LEAVE YOU FULL & CONTENT. MAGAZINE

E H S O K E H T

LL A R O F L A V I T S E F D O O F R

FROM THE CLASSIC COMPANIES YOUR GRANDMOTHER GREW UP ON, TO THE INNOVATIVE ARTISANAL BRANDS YOU HAVEN'T HEARD OF YET, DISCOVER AND TASTE NEW PRODUCTS AND MEET THE FOLKS BEHIND THE BRANDS.

DEMOS PREPARE YOURSELF FOR A TRUE CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH OUR JAM PACKED SCHEDULE OF LIVE COOKING DEMONSTRATIONS! FROM SOURDOUGH TO MEAT AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN, WE'VE GOT SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.

MIRIAM (PASCAL) COHEN @OVERTIMECOOK

RIVKY KLEIMAN @RIVKYKLEIMAN_ SIMPLYGOURMET

CHEF KENDRA (PRAIRIE ST) @PRAIRIESTREETCO

NAOMI ROSS

@NAOMIROSSCOOKS

CHAYA SURI LEITNER

@SPICEANDZEST

FAIGY MURRAY

@MYKITCHEN_MYSTUDIO

PAULA SHOYER

DANIELLE RENOV

CHANIE APFELBAUM

WINE PANEL: IT’S GONNA BE GRAPE.

KOSHER PANELS: THE OU AND YOU.

@PEASLOVENCARROTS FLOOR HOST

RAISE A GLASS WITH GABRIEL GELLER, YEHOSHUA WERTH, AND THEIR WINE SAVVY CREW. POP YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT PAIRINGS, VALUE FOR MONEY, GLOBAL VINEYARDS, AND STORAGE METHODS. PLUS, GET A BONUS WINE-TASTING JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD!

RESTAURANT PANEL: NO RESERVATIONS. JOIN ELAN KORNBLUM FROM GREAT KOSHER RESTAURANTS) & DANI KLEIN FROM YEAH THATS KOSHER) AS THEY CHAT WITH KOSHER RESTAURATEURS ABOUT THE CURRENT KOSHER RESTAURANT SITUATION, CHALLENGES, UPCOMING TRENDS, AND MORE.

COOKBOOK NOOK: MEET AND GREET YOUR FAVORITE COOKBOOK AUTHORS ALL IN ONE SPOT. BROWSE AND BUY THEIR LATEST BOOKS, ASK THEM QUESTIONS, AND GET THOSE AUTOGRAPHS. ALL THE COOKBOOK ACTION YOU COULD WANT, ALL IN ONE PLACE!

150+ EXHIBITORS

@BUSYINBROOKLYN COMPETITION HOST

THE RABBI WILL SEE YOU NOW. HOLD THE APPLAUSE, NOT YOUR QUESTIONS AT THIS NO HOLDS BARRED Q+A PANEL ON ALL THINGS KOSHER. PLUS, THINGS WILL GET FEATHERY AND FISHY WITH LIVE KOSHER BIRD AND FISH PRESENTATIONS.

THAT'S THE SPIRIT: COCKTAILS & MORE MIXCRAFT IS PULLING OUT ALL THE STOPS! ENJOY ARTISANAL COCKTAILS, PICK UP SOME SKILLS AT THEIR COCKTAIL MAKING DEMONSTRATION, AND ENJOY THE “BAR-MITZVAH” BARTENDING COMPETITION.

CHALLAH BRAIDING PANEL: LET’S GET TWISTED. LEARN THE ART OF PERFECT CHALLAH BRAIDING FROM ROCHIE PINSON, CHALLAH EXPERT AND BEST SELLING AUTHOR OF "RISING: THE BOOK OF CHALLAH." FROM KOBE, JAPAN TO BROOKLYN, NY, ROCHIE HAS BEEN HONING HER CRAFT FOR DECADES, AND HAS GIVEN WORKSHOPS AROUND THE WORLD.

TICKETS ON SALE NOW

@KOSHERBAKER

LEVANA KIRSCHENBAUM

@LEVANANOURISHMENT

LEAH KOENIG @LEAH.KOENIG

AMY STOPNICKI @AMYSTOPNICKI_

MEADOWLANDS EXPOSITION CENTER

DEMO KITCHEN SPONSORS

4000+ ATTENDEES

L'CHAIM

THE SUN IS OUT, THE WHITES (AND ROSÉ) ARE IN!

PAS CA L

HERZOG

BOUCHARD

LINEAGE

CHABLIS LE

ROSÉ 2022

CLASSIQUE

Made from estate-grown Pinot Noir grapes, this fantastic California rosé is quite the crowd-pleaser.

While dry, it’s fruit-forward and delightful, with notes of ripe strawberries, raspberries and pink grapefruit.

It’s very enjoyable poolside, either on its own or with salads and grilled fare.

The Burgundian appellation of Chablis in France is wellknown for making some of the best Chardonnay in the world. Unlike many of their counterparts, most Chablis wines are unoaked, highlighting a steely, bright and mineral profile with saline notes. Excellent with a sushi salad or grilled chicken skewers; it would also do wonders with smoked chicken!

BY: GABRIEL GELLER

For many, if not most people, the summer is easily the best time of the year for a well-deserved vacation and diverse outdoor activities. Here is a selection of white wines that are rather easy to find, all of which will make your summer more pleasurable and fun. But first of all, please remember that for proper enjoyment, white wines must be served well-chilled! Ideally, when possible, the best is to maintain the open bottle in an ice bucket to preserve the wine’s freshness throughout the course of the meal. Have a great sunny summer! L’chaim!

92

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

L'CHAIM

N E TO FA T E L

COVENANT

QASSER WHITE

RED C

2019

SAUVIGNON

This wine is made from an interesting variety, roussanne, one of the main white grape types of the Rhône Valley in France that produces outstanding wine. In this case, the roussanne grapes are sourced from Netofa’s estate vineyards in Kibbutz Ein Dor, located in Israel’s Lower Galilee, now recognized as one of the finest growing regions in the country. This complex wine features a medium body, with great viscosity and notes of pear, quince and basil. It would go amazingly well with grilled lamb chops.

BLANC 2022 There are also white wines that can pair remarkably well with poultry or veal.

Sauvignon Blanc is a noble variety originating from the Loire Valley and has successfully spread worldwide to other regions such as Northern California, Israel and, of course, New Zealand. This is a classic option, with a beautiful citrusy profile and lively acidity.

CARMEL BUZZ S PA R K L I N G MANGO M O S C AT O Israel’s leading winery, Carmel, makes excellent wines in every category.

The Buzz line comprises fun, light, sweet and refreshing Moscato wines that come in several fruit flavors.

I particularly enjoy the mango expression, which works well with some ice (even in a plastic cup) alongside barbecued wings and hot dogs.

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

93

THE FOOD SHOW BY THE PEOPLE FOR VE

E

NO

N-

LY

LUSIVE XC

E XC L U S

I

THE NEW KOSHER CONSUMER SHOW, KOSHERPALOOZA IS A ONE DAY EVENT BRINGING TOGETHER KOSHER FOOD FANS (THATS YOU!), BRANDS, CHEFS, COOKBOOK AUTHORS AND INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS IN CELEBRATION OF THE LATEST & GREATEST KOSHER PRODUCTS AND FOOD TRENDS.

JUNE 28TH AT THE MEADOWLANDS EXPO CENTER

FOR MORE INFORMATION & TO RESERVE YOUR BOOTH PLEASE CONTACT: SHLOMO@KOSHERPALOOZA.COM

R E C I P E

I N D E X

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 25 Rosemary Simple Syrup 25 Sparkling Rosemary Lemonade FF M Q 27 Cherry Mostarda 28 Coffee Chili Rub Q 38 Truffle-Infused Tomato Sauce 74 Spicy Amba Mayonnaise M Q

MEAT & CHICKEN 25 Rosemary-Glazed Lamb Chops FF 27 Grilled Lamb Chops with Cherry Mostarda 28 Lamb Chops with Coffee Chili Rub Q 33 Non-Dairy Carbonara 39 Veal Milanese FF 74 Chicken Pops with Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Spicy Amba Mayonnaise FF

FISH 35 Rosemary-Stuffed Branzino M Q 70 Golden Tomato and Herb Salmon FF

SALADS & SIDES 34 Oregano-Roasted Tomatoes M 35 Herb-Roasted Potatoes FF M 36 Spinach with Pine Nuts and Raisins M Q 68 Fresh Tomatoes with Olive Oil M Q 72 Homemade Oven-Dried Tomatoes M 73 Sweet Maple Oven-Dried Tomatoes M Q 73 Savory Herb Oven-Dried Tomatoes M Q 77 Shaved Zucchini Salad with Chickpea and Pistachio Topping Q 78 Zucchini Carpaccio 79 Marinated Golden Zucchini Q

SWEET TREATS 80 Zucchini Olive Oil Loaf Cake FF 88 Limoncello Bundt Cake FF 89 Zeppole FF M

Key: FF Family-Friendly

96

M

Minimal Ingredients

Q

Quick

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

LAST BITE

ItalianInspired Recipe Round Up BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ Here is a round-up of Italianinspired recipes from prior issues, all of which can be found on the Fleishigs app.

ITALIAN-STYLE BITTER GREEN SALAD

By: Shifra Klein

By: Fleishigs Test Kitchen

#yesitsontheapp

ISSUE #41

ISSUE #12

Caponata is a Sicilian eggplant dish — a great starter to any meal.

Made with bitter greens, this light salad is elevated with lemon supremes and a simple, classic vinaigrette.

WILD ASPARAGUS RISOTTO

POLLO ALLA ROMANA CON I PEPERONI / CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES AND PEPPERS

GRILLED SAUSAGE AND PEPPER PIZZA

By: Lara and Eli Gauthier ISSUE #4

98

EGGPLANT CAPONATA

By: Benedetta Jasmine Guetta ISSUE #37

By: Mandy Silverman ISSUE #28 Use Italian-style sausage for this sheet pan pizza and drizzle with high-quality balsamic vinegar from Modena (such as Tuscanini) for that added Italian touch.

Cantina Giuliano, Lara and Eli Gauthier’s unique winery in the heart of Tuscany, also features lodging, a kosher restaurant and more. This recipe was inspired by the wild asparagus that grows around their town.

This traditional Roman recipe from the cookbook Cooking Alla Giudia is the perfect family-friendly chicken dinner for any night of the week

ANEJO-BRAISED BEEF OSSO BUCCO

VEAL SCHNITZEL

MOCHA SEMIFREDDO

By: Reena Goldberger

By: Naftali Hanau

By: Rosa Seidenwar

ISSUE #34

ISSUE #13

ISSUE #38

This classic Italian braised dish made with beef or veal shanks and vegetables comes together quickly. Use white wine instead of tequila, if desired.

For a classic Italian presentation, top this milanese with a salad like the versions from issues 7 and 31. This version is topped with marinara and almond ricotta for a filling meal.

Italian for “half frozen,” semifreddo is the perfect no-bake summer dessert.

Fleishigs JUNE 2023

www.fleishigs.com

ROMA The capital of la Dolce vita

Heart.Works / Anta Aleksandrova, 2022

till one-day-someday-I’ll-visit-Italia comes true, enjoy a pintful of Italy.

The Sukkah that carried us through the times.

White Glove Service

Highest Quality Materials

Adjustable Legs

We deliver, set up, and take down your Sukkah (including schach and lighting). Ask about our rentals and assembly services.

- 16 gauge hand welding - Powder coated - Sunbrella® fabric

For uneven surfaces and difficult terrain.

Order now to ensure availability!

516.610.6610 | littonsukkah.com | info@littonsukkah.com

skymediaco.co

‫כי בסכות‬ ‫הושבתי את‬ ‫בני ישראל‬