Fleishigs Magazine Issue 047 - May 2023 by Fleishigs Magazine

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You Were Mekabel the Torah Now Learn to Live It Order now on MosaicaPress.com and receive a free surprise gift with every purchase of $50 or more.* new from mosaica press

WHATEVER IT TAKES Rabbi Shea Hecht As a community rabbi, Shea Hecht has seen it all, from glory to disaster and back again. Now you can read about his experiences in book form. Whatever It Takes is storytelling at its most poignant and powerful. GREATNESS Eytan Kobre Through vivid biographical sketches, the reader is introduced to fascinating yet lesser-known Torah personalities and gains new insight into renowned figures from our past and present. THE CHOICE TO BELIEVE Rabbi Aryeh Feldman Explore the teachings of Harav Moshe Shapiro in The Choice to Believe, which delves into the mitzvah of emunah and how it can strengthen our relationship with the Creator. Be guided through a journey of self-discovery and a deeper understanding of faith.

books you may have missed

RAISING A COMMUNITY, A FAMILY, AND OURSELVES Rabbi Avraham Bogopulsky Thought-provoking anecdotes and lessons that encourage a moral and elevated existence, from the bestselling author of Developing a Torah Personality.

THE WISDOM OF AVOS Rabbi Yisroel Miller Enter the world of Pirkei Avos with a novel approach to examining the Mishnayos — one that is thoughtful yet laced with humor — and discover a treasure house of wisdom and insight. TORAH LEADERSHIP Rabbi Elihu Abbe, LMSW How to lead effectively using principles from the Torah and classical leadership literature.

*While supplies last VISIT US ONLINE AT MOSAICAPRESS.COM Mosaica Press books are available for purchase online or at your local Jewish bookshop.

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BACK POCKET ARTICHOKES

EDITOR’S LETTER

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

ESSENTIALS Shavuos essentials

COOKBOOK Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome's Jewish Kitchen by Leah Koenig

SEASONAL FEAST

BREAKING BREAD No-knead focaccia

BUTCHER’S CUT Pecorino Romano

ROMAN-STYLE FEAST

SOMETHING SWEET Highlighting lemons

102 L’CHAIM Italian wines and spirits 108 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK 112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp

TRAVEL ROME

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EDITOR'S LETTER

A DREAM COME TRUE. In June 2022, we sat down for our annual editorial planning session, where we plan themes for each month. We decide on a general approach and strategy for the year ahead, since so much of what makes each issue special takes a lot of advance planning. In our mission to constantly bring something new to the magazine, we decided that this year we would produce an entire issue based on our travels to a single destination. We spent the summer brainstorming. Which city should we choose? How will we cover it? Somehow, my heart was set on Rome, a city not only rich in history, but rich in Jewish history. There is so much to do in Rome and it’s a food lover’s haven; Rome offers a variety of kosher food, cooking experiences, Shabbat options and food and wine tours. So, an issue dedicated to Rome was put on the schedule for our annual Milchigs (aka Shavuos) issue, with a focus on Italian food. The idea seemed simultaneously determined and delusional — between babysitting, scheduling and budgets, this was by far one of our most ambitious plans yet. Back in December, we were lucky enough to have Joseph Singer and Rivkah Tuttle from High Class Travel help us plan a quick getaway to Cancun. Having never used the services of a travel agency before, I was floored with the overall service and the capacity of the travel agents to create incredible experiences for the kosher traveler. After such a successful experience with them, I knew they would be the perfect partners to make this dream trip (and subsequently, dream issue) a reality. There is so much that goes into planning a trip like this and we could not have done what we did or even conceptualized many parts of our trip without the dedicated planning by High Class Travel; for that we are forever grateful. Jay Schwartz, a travel concierge and 12

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THE ROME ISSUE

travel advisor at the agency, created a customized itinerary for a culinary-focused trip and was available to us at all hours of the day for any issue that may have come up. Rome has so much to offer that Jewish cookbook author Leah Koenig dedicated her newest upcoming cookbook to Roman Jewish cuisine. In this issue, Leah shares an iconic Roman Jewish recipe and why Rome is of such significance to her. Fellow cookbook author Chanie Apfelbaum, who recently visited Rome, shares a bright and festive Rome-inspired Shavuos feast. Our taste of Roman pizza inspired a focaccia-style feast and our taste of Sorrento lemons and limoncello at the Campo de Fiori market inspired the incredible dessert recipes that Naomi Elberg created. One of the most incredible and inspirational parts of our trip was Shabbat spent in the Jewish Ghetto. It speaks to the incredible spirit of the Jewish nation who, despite multiple attempts by different regimes to annihilate them, managed to survive. Shavuos really drives this point home; it’s the holiday where we celebrate the acceptance of the Torah and the first time the Jews kept kosher – hence the custom of eating dairy food (the prohibition against mixing milk and meat and the need for a festive meal led to a dairy feast). This acceptance is what has undoubtedly kept the identity of the Jewish nation alive for all these years. When you recognize the power of the Torah and how transformative and awe-inspiring it is, there's no better time to bring this all full circle than the Shavuos issue. This issue is all about taking you on a journey to Rome through the recipes and stories that grace these pages. We hope that you feel inspired when reading about the incredible spirit of the Jews of Rome that was felt with every step. Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappoport FOOD STYLIST ASSISTANT Esther Hazan CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com PROPS Lagoon Linens

www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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T H I S M O N T H 'S C O N T R I B U TO RS :

CHANIE APFELBAUM is a recipe developer, food photographer and author of the bestselling cookbooks Millennial Kosher (2017) and Totally Kosher (2023). She has been featured in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal and more. Chanie is available for interactive cooking demonstrations and workshops worldwide. Follow her on Instagram @busyinbrooklyn or her website busyinbrooklyn.com.

ISAAC BERNSTEIN works in operational consulting and recipe development in the kosher food service industry. When he's not beating himself up over nonsense, you can find him at Breadberry, where he is the Creative Culinary Partner. Find Isaac on Instagram @chefisaacb.

NAOMI ELBERG, originally from Montreal, does cooking and baking demonstrations nationwide, growing her passion for all things baked. Naomi can be reached at TGIS.challah@gmail.com or on Instagram @naomi_TGIS.

GABRIEL GELLER is the Director of PR & Advertising and Manager of Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp. He is also a wine writer, critic and consultant. Reach Gabriel via Instagram @kosherwine_gg, email ggeller@royalwine.com or through his Facebook group, Kosher Wine: Sharing and Experiences.

YAEL GELLER is a wine enthusiast and co-manages the largest wine forum in the world, Kosher Wine: Sharing and Experiences, on Facebook with her husband Gabriel. Follow along on Yael’s adventures on Instagram @tigresskitchen.

SHIFRA KLEIN is a food writer, food stylist and the co-founder and editor-in-chief of Fleishigs Magazine, the world’s premier kosher food and lifestyle magazine. Shifra can be reached on Instagram @shifraklein.

ADINA SILBERMAN is trained as a dentist and is passionate about home cooking. She shares her techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina. Adina lives in New York with her husband and two daughters.

ELISHEVA TAITZ works fulltime in the corporate healthcare industry and is also a food writer, recipe developer and the editor of Fleishigs Magazine. She lives with her family in Cedarhurst, NY. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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ESSENTIALS

Essentials THE FOLLOWING PRODUCTS WILL HELP LEVEL UP YOUR SHAVUOS PREPARATIONS

BY : E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

DE CECCO PASTA Made in Italy with a 130-year-old recipe, this shelf-stable pasta is beloved even by Italian fresh pasta makers! Available in stores and on many online retailers, including Amazon.

GALIL ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS

LUXARDO LIMONCELLO

Available in the freezer section, these artichoke bottoms take the hassle out of preparing artichokes. See page 26 for the artichoke feature.

Add limoncello to desserts (like the tiramisu on page 100) or cocktails for a bright citrusy flavor. This one is made using the finest lemons harvested from Southern Italy.

GEFEN WHOLE BLACK PEPPER SPICE GRINDER Freshly ground black pepper is essential for cacio e pepe (see page 49) and so many other dishes. This compact, affordable pepper grinder allows you to grind fresh black pepper into your dishes.

NATURAL & KOSHER ITALIAN-STYLE CHEESE

OLIPAC ELEGANTE OLIVE OIL DISPENSER

Inspired by Italy, these cholov yisroel, USA-made cheese products are available in many supermarkets nationwide, from fresh mozzarella to grated Parmesan. The pre-sliced (and new thin pre-sliced!) mozzarella is great for cheese boards or pizza. The stuff-androll mozzarella allows you to create a show stopping appetizer.

Not only will your olive oil be displayed in style, but the handle and spout make for easy and convenient drizzling as well. Olive oil remains freshest when stored in a dark container, such as this durable stainless steel one. Plus, it’s dishwasher safe.

Fleishigs MAY 2023

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THE CHEESE GUY BURRATA

One of the only kosher balsamic glazes on the market, a light drizzle of balsamic glaze adds a pop of flavor to both sweet and savory dishes. A product of Italy, it’s made using high-quality kosher balsamic vinegar from Modena. Also available in red grape reduction and white grape reduction.

Burrata is a ball of fresh mozzarella with a soft, creamy center. This burrata, made authentically in the Piedmont region of Italy, is the only kosher burrata on the market and is cholov yisroel as well.

NYLON OFFSET SPATULA HANNO BLACK FLUTED PEPPER MILL For a modern look, try this wood black pepper mill, available in two finishes. It’s refillable and the coarseness level can be adjusted as desired. crateandbarrel.com | $29.95

The uses for an offset spatula are endless, but it particularly comes in handy when spreading frosting on a cake or filling babka (see page 98). It allows you to spread easily and evenly. This nylon version is naturally nonstick, dishwasher safe and comes in 4-or 8-inch sizes. williams-sonoma.com | $9.95-$19.95

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COOKBOOK

Celebrating la Cucina Ebraica Romana

Roman Jewish Cuisine

BY: L E A H KO E N I G

Fleishigs MAY 2023

alking down Via del Portico d’Ottavia, the main street running through Rome’s historic Jewish neighborhood, you will find kosher restaurants serving fried artichokes, fresh pastas and garlicky roasted lamb and potatoes. You will see Jewish bakeries turning out swirled almond cookies and ricotta and sour cherry tarts, as well as throngs of people–tourists and locals alike– raising glasses of wine as the late afternoon sun shimmers off the coral-colored buildings. The magic of Jewish Rome inspired my forthcoming cookbook, Portico: Cooking & Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen (W.W. Norton). But life wasn’t always

this way for Rome’s Jews. The community dates back more than 2,000 years and has faced long periods of discrimination and hardship over the centuries. For more than 300 years, they were forced by papal decree to live inside of a walled, flood-prone slum called a “ghetto.” Their lives were limited in every way imaginable, from the kinds of professions they were allowed to engage in to the size of the fish they could buy at the market. Out of this hardship emerged a resilient, tightly knit community; today, 16,000 Jews call the Eternal City home. The years of confinement also helped a uniquely beguiling Jewish cuisine to evolve. A mix of ancient Roman produce and preparations; Sephardi www.fleishigs.com

COOKBOOK

The years of confinement also helped a uniquely beguiling Jewish cuisine to evolve. influence from the Spanish and Sicilian Jews who fled to Rome after the Spanish Inquisition; and North African dishes introduced by Libyan Jews who moved to Rome after the Six Day War, Rome’s Jewish cuisine is truly unlike any other in the world. I first visited Rome the summer after I graduated from college. My plan was to volunteer on a vineyard in Tuscany to learn more about sustainable winemaking and, with any luck, learn more about myself as well. My first stop, however, was Rome, where I marveled at the mix of modern architecture and ancient ruins existing side by side. I spent my days wandering around the city’s web of tiny, charming streets.

Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome's Jewish Kitchen Author: Leah Koenig Pages: 336 pages Publisher: W. W. Norton & Company Release date: August 29, 2023 Recipes: 100+

On that trip I dipped a toe into the historic Jewish Ghetto neighborhood, but was too young and distracted to really appreciate it. Five years later I returned on my honeymoon, ready to learn more about this community that not only survived but was still thriving after 22 centuries. This time around, my husband and I ate our weight in Carciofi alla Giudia (“Jewish-style” artichokes)– the addictively crispy, deep-fried artichokes for which Roman Jewish cuisine is best known. We toured the beautiful Tempio Maggiore (Great Synagogue), then strolled across the cobblestone street to a 200-year old kosher bakery, where we nibbled on chewy bar cookies studded with raisins and pine nuts. We lucked into a Shabbat dinner at the home of Rome’s top kosher caterer, where we were embarrassingly well fed. The standout from that dinner, aside from the easy conversation with our new friends, was stracotto di manzo–a simple but sublime dish of beef braised in red wine and tomato sauce. I’ve been writing about global Jewish cuisine for the better part of two decades now and it’s fair to say that it all started in Rome. That trip expanded my understanding of what Jewish food was and could be, and it inspired me to devote my professional life to learning about and sharing Jewish cuisines from around the world. In Portico, I highlight the dishes, stories and most importantly the people that make Rome’s Jewish community such a special place. It’s my attempt to give something back to Rome–a love letter tola dolce vita. MAY 2023

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COOKBOOK

Semolina Gnocchi Gratin (Gnocchi alla Romana) Serves 4 to 6

The name of this traditional Roman dish is a bit confusing because rather than the potato or ricotta-based dumplings that the term gnocchi more commonly refers to, these gnocchi are made from semolina. But after one bite of the creamy, golden brown gratin that emerges from the oven, names will hardly matter. Gnocchi alla Romana is not exclusively a Jewish dish, but it is widely served within the community. In Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds: Recipes and Lore from Rome and Lazio, Oretta Zanini de Vita writes that some Jewish families celebrate the holiday of Shavuot with these gnocchi. They are also wonderful for a comforting weeknight meal.

3 1 1¼ 1½ 4

1½ ⅛ 2

cups (710 ml) whole milk cup (240 ml) water cups (200 g) fine semolina teaspoons kosher salt tablespoons (55 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces cups (105 g) freshly grated Parmesan teaspoon ground nutmeg large egg yolks, lightly beaten

1. Heat the milk and water in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the liquid comes to a rolling simmer (just shy of a full boil). Reduce the heat to medium-low and, stirring constantly with a sturdy spoon, steadily pour in the semolina. Cook, stirring constantly, until the semolina plumps and the mixture becomes very thick, 2 to 4 minutes. 2. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the salt, half of the butter, 1 cup (70 g) of the Parmesan, and the nutmeg. Add the egg yolks and stir vigorously to incorporate them. 3. Lightly moisten the bottom of a 10x15-inch rimmed baking sheet with water. Pour the warm semolina mixture on to the baking sheet and, using a lightly moistened offset spatula or your hands, gently smooth it into a ½-inch thickness. Let cool until firm enough to cut, about 30 minutes. 4. Preheat the oven to 425°F and lightly grease a 9x13 inch baking dish. Using a 2 ½ inch round cookie cutter, stamp out as many circles of semolina as possible. Use a thin metal spatula to carefully lift the circles out of the baking sheet and arrange them in the baking dish, allowing the slices to overlap like roof shingles. If desired, you can press any scraps of semolina together and stamp out more circles.

The recipe is reprinted with permission from Portico: Cooking & Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen by Leah Koenig (W.W. Norton, 2023), photography by Kristin Teig, available for preorder now (release date August 29, 2023). 24

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5. Scatter the remaining butter and remaining ½ cup (35 g) of Parmesan over the top of the gnocchi. Bake, uncovered, until golden on top and browning at the edges of the baking dish, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the gnocchi from the oven and let cool slightly before serving. www.fleishigs.com

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ART OF

BACK POCKET

BY: A D I N A S I L B E R M A N

he Jewish connection to artichokes is a story whose theme echoes through our history — out of oppression and persecution, we find ways to innovate, survive and thrive. With the creation of the ghettos of Italy in the 1500s came overcrowding, poverty and limitations on rights. In the Roman Ghetto, Jews were banned from performing anything but menial jobs — dealing used clothing, running pawn shops and selling cheap food on the street. Many Jewish women opened friggitore, stalls selling fried foods and used vegetables, which were considered second-rate to create new delicacies. But what set these friggitore apart was not only their location in the Ghetto, but also their choice of frying oil — olive oil — rather than the locally predominant pork fat. Though frying in olive oil is commonplace now, back then it was innovative. Deep fried artichokes — carciofo alla giudia — were one of these innovations, and the dish is now revered among Italian locals and travelers alike. I like to see the artichoke as the Italian-Jewish version of the Israeli sabra. It’s prickly on the outside, but once you get past the thorny leaves, the inside is supple, flavorful and delicious.

GET TO KNOW YOUR ARTICHOKES • Fresh artichokes are at peak season in the spring. Artichokes generally come in two sizes: large, the more typical variety seen in American grocery stores and small, also known as baby artichokes. • Artichokes have roots in the thistle family, which is why most large artichokes have thorns on their leaves. Baby artichokes tend to be thorn-free.

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• Like apples, avocados and potatoes, the flesh of artichokes oxidize, meaning they turn brown when cut and exposed to air. When preparing fresh artichokes, have a bowl of water with a few squeezes of lemon juice on hand to stop the browning process. • Beyond fresh, artichoke bottoms and hearts are available in many forms. You can

find canned (i.e. Roland, Cento, Reese); jarred and marinated in oil (i.e. Trader Joe’s); and frozen (i.e. Galil). These are great to keep in your pantry or freezer because they can add interesting flavor and texture to your menu in a pinch; when prepared correctly, they can taste just as good as fresh.

THE

C www.fleishigs.com

BACK POCKET

CHOKE

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Steamed Whole Artichokes with Garlic Confit Serves: 4

This simple recipe showcases the complex beauty of artichokes. Chewing on the leaves of simply steamed artichokes is pure nostalgia. Elevate the experience with a side of garlic confit. 4

globe artichokes Garlic Confit (recipe follows), for serving

A HEART AMONG THORNS. Fun fact: Jerusalem artichokes (otherwise known as sunchokes) do not even belong to the artichoke family!

1. Cut the stems off the artichokes, leaving about 1 inch intact. Use kitchen shears to snip the pointy leaf tips off; wash artichokes under running water. 2. Fill a large pot with water and place a steamer basket inside, making sure that the basket doesn’t touch the water. Bring the water to a boil. Add artichokes and steam for about 30 minutes, until stems are fork tender. 3. Serve whole artichokes with garlic confit. To eat, remove leaves, dip and bite out the flesh. Once the center is reached, discard the fuzzy choke and enjoy the artichoke heart. UNDER PRESSURE: Cook cleaned artichokes in a multicooker, like an Instant Pot, with 1 inch of water for 22 minutes; release pressure immediately.

Garlic Confit Add 1 cup olive oil, 6 garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon kosher salt to a saucepan over medium heat; simmer until garlic begins to brown, about 15 minutes.

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Braised Artichoke Hearts Serves: 4

This artichoke preparation is fresh and delicious. Although it can seem tedious to clean and prepare the artichokes, the end result is well worth the effort. Feel free to substitute with frozen or canned. 4 ½ 2 2 4 ½ ¼ ¼ ¼

Zest and juice of 1 lemon, divided globe artichokes cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling tablespoons finely chopped parsley tablespoons finely chopped mint cloves minced garlic teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup white wine cup water

1. Fill a large bowl with water and add lemon juice; set aside. 2. Working with one artichoke at a time, slice off ¼ inch of the artichoke stem, then shave off the tough outer layer of the stem. Cut the top 2 inches off the artichoke and discard. Remove the tough outer leaves, leaving only the inner leaves intact. Using a spoon or melon baller, carve out the center purple leaves and remove the fuzzy choke; discard. Finally, cut artichokes in half. Repeat with remaining artichokes. Place prepared artichokes into the lemon water to prevent discoloration. 3. Mix ¼ cup olive oil, lemon zest, parsley, mint, garlic, salt and pepper. 4. Drain artichokes and pat dry. Toss artichokes with herb mixture, using your hands if needed to get mixture between the leaves. 5. Heat remaining ¼ cup olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat; sear artichokes, cut-side down, for about 2 minutes. Add wine and boil for 2 minutes, then add water. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. 6. Arrange braised artichokes on a serving dish and spoon juices on top. Drizzle with a little more olive oil.

MAY 2023

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Spinach Artichoke Quiche Serves: 6-8

Spinach and artichoke go hand in hand in so many recipes, and this crowd pleasing quiche is no different! Serve warm or at room temperature.

NOTE: You can also use jarred or canned artichoke hearts for this recipe. FOR THE TOPPING: ¼ cup salted butter ½ cup bread crumbs ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA AT RENATO AL GHETTO, ANOTHER MEAT RESTAURANT IN THE JEWISH GHETTO. THEY ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR ROMAN-JEWISH CLASSICS AND EXCELLENT NON-DAIRY DESSERTS.

Roman-Jewish Fried Artichokes Serves: 2

Known as Carciofi alla Giudia (Jewish artichokes), no single recipe screams “Jewish Italian” as much as this one. Served in kosher restaurants across Italy, this homemade version is equally as delicious. 1 2

lemon, divided globe artichokes Vegetable oil, for frying Maldon salt, for sprinkling Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Fill a large bowl with water and squeeze ½ lemon into it; set aside. 2. Working with one artichoke at a time, slice off ¼ inch of the artichoke stem, then shave off the tough outer layer of the stem. Cut the top 2 inches off the artichoke and discard. Remove the tough outer leaves, leaving only the inner leaves intact. Finally, using a spoon or melon baller, carve out the center purple leaves and remove the 30

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fuzzy choke; discard. Repeat with remaining artichokes. Place prepared artichokes into the lemon water to prevent discoloration. 3. Heat 3-4 inches oil in a heavybottomed pot over medium-high heat. Pat artichokes dry, then fry for 8-10 minutes, until stems are tender. Remove from oil and allow oil to heat up once again. 4. Once artichokes are slightly cool enough to handle, use your fingers to open and spread the leaves out so they resemble flowers. Return artichokes to the oil, stem sides up, pushing down firmly against the bottom of the pot to create flat bottoms; fry for 20 seconds, then release and fry for another 4 minutes, until deeply golden brown. 5. Remove from oil and immediately sprinkle with salt. Serve with lemon wedges (from the remaining ½ lemon) and garnish with fresh parsley.

FOR THE QUICHE: 1 frozen pie shell, such as Oronoque 1 (10-ounce) package chopped frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed 1 (10-ounce) package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and chopped 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese 4 eggs ½ cup sour cream ½ cup whole milk ½ teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. For the topping, heat butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs and toast until lightly golden brown. Toss with ½ cup Parmesan cheese; set aside. 2. Preheat oven to 425°F. Place pie shell on a baking sheet and cook for 10 minutes, then set aside to cool. Lower oven temperature to 375°F. 3. Mix spinach, artichoke hearts, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. Add to the cooled pie shell. 4. In the same bowl, mix eggs, sour cream, milk, garlic powder, salt and pepper until well combined, then pour mixture into the pie shell. Top with toasted bread crumb mixture. Cook for 40-45 minutes, until golden and set. Let cool for 15 minutes before slicing.

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MAY 2023

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EAT YOUR HEART OUT.

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BACK POCKET

Artichoke Butter Lettuce Salad Serves: 6

Prepare the relish in advance, then stir it into the soft leaves of the lettuce. With the crispy artichoke bites, this salad is a combination of textures that is a feast for the senses. 2 ¾

large heads butter lettuce, leaves roughly torn Artichoke Relish (recipe follows) Crispy Artichoke Bites (recipe follows) cup crumbled feta cheese, optional

Lightly toss butter lettuce with artichoke relish, then top with crispy artichoke bites and feta cheese. Serve immediately.

Artichoke Relish Yield: 2 cups

This recipe comes together easily with a few pantry and fresh ingredients, just be sure to chop everything roughly the same size. Serve alongside other dips with challah, in a salad like the one above or on top of grilled meat or chicken. Toss 1 (12-ounce) jar strained and roughly chopped marinated artichokes, ½ cup roughly chopped gherkin pickles, 2 tablespoons capers, 1 tablespoon caper brine, 2 chopped Roma tomatoes, ¼ cup minced fresh parsley and 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Crispy Artichoke Bites Similar in texture and flavor to the classic Roman Jewish artichoke, but made simpler by using canned artichokes. These bites are a delicious snack and the perfect topping to salads. Strain and pat dry 1 (12-ounce) can artichoke hearts. Heat 3-4 inches oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Fry artichokes for 8-10 minutes, until browned and crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate or wire cooling rack. Sprinkle immediately with Maldon salt.

Artichoke Dip Yield: 1½ cups

My new favorite dip for Shabbos — the flavor is so fresh, different and delicious! 1 2 2 2

(12-14 ounce) jar marinated artichoke hearts, strained tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons chopped fresh parsley tablespoons chopped fresh basil Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Blend artichokes, herbs and olive oil in a food processor or blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days.

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BACK POCKET

Warm Artichoke Carpaccio Serves: 2

Using all different parts and preparations to the artichoke, this starter is an elevated play on the inherent versatility of artichokes. 5-6 2 ¼ ½

artichoke bottoms tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Parmesan cheese Zest and juice of ½ lemon Crispy Artichoke Bites (recipe above) , optional Toasted pine nuts, chopped

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss artichoke bottoms with olive oil and salt. Arrange on a baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes, until crispy around the edges. 2. Once cool enough to handle, slice artichokes very thinly. Arrange in a pile on a serving dish and sprinkle with black pepper and Parmesan cheese. Season with more salt, to taste. 3. Top with lemon zest, lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil and more Parmesan cheese. Top with crispy artichokes (if desired) and pine nuts. HOW TO: To toast pine nuts, arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer. Toast in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes, until lightly golden brown and fragrant. Alternatively, toast in a dry skillet over medium heat, constantly shaking, until lightly golden brown and fragrant, about 3 minutes.

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Drink Responsibly

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Chalav Yisrael under the Vaad of the 5 Towns

T E p o f is i t e y g r .

We wil nee m re t a j s t is a t tel o r s o y... F o t e c ws t r u h o r p o ess t t e i g e ien s we use... j s o e spo n f l wil s y i a l DAIRY CHOLOV YISROEL SINCE 1991

BREAKING BREAD

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BREAKING BREAD

a i c F c e a a c s o e t F

BY: S H I F R A K L E I N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R O N E O F T H E B E ST B I T E S W E H A D I N RO M E WAS T H E P I Z Z A AT B O N A P I Z Z A — M A D E I N A S H E E T PA N W I T H T H E M AG I CA L C O M B I N AT I O N O F A SU P E R C RU N C H Y C RU ST A N D A N A I RY, B U B B LY C E N T E R. B O N A P I Z Z A A LSO S E RV E S A SA N DW I C H V E RS I O N O F T H E I R P I Z Z A , W H I C H I N S P I R E D U S TO R E T H I N K FO CAC C I A BY U P G R A D I N G I TS SU P P O RT I N G RO L E STAT U S TO O N E T H AT TA K E S C E N T E R STAG E .

MAY 2023

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BREAKING BREAD

Basic No-Knead Dough Yield: 2 large pizzas or 1 half-sheet pan focaccia

Focaccia Caprese Sandwich

By: Isaac Bernstein

Serves: 8

No-knead dough seems easy at first glance, but those who have tried know that getting picture perfect results takes effort. Noknead bread and pizza have been around for years — this is my adaptation of the classic. The recipe has more hydration than most others out there, which gives for a more supple dough with less dry spots.

For a thicker focaccia to use for the sandwich, use a quarter-sheet pan or 9x13-inch baking dish.

6¼ cups bread flour 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¾ teaspoon active dry yeast 2¾ cups water 1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk flour, salt and yeast until combined. Add water and stir until a dough forms. (The dough will appear craggy and weird and you’re going to question whether or not this recipe will work, but it will.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature overnight. 2. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 550°F. Using wet hands, fold the dough onto itself a few times to form a loose ball. 3. To make a sheet pan focaccia, place dough onto a greased half-sheet pan. Spread dough as much as you can by using your fingers to create dimples. At this point, the dough will not stretch to the edges of the pan. Let dough rest, uncovered, at room temperature for 20 minutes, then spread the dough again using your fingers to stretch it, only until the point that feels like the stretching won’t rip the dough. Let rest again, uncovered, at room temperature for another 20 minutes. Repeat the stretching and resting process until dough can be stretched to the edges of the sheet pan. To make pizza, split dough into a size that works for your recipe. Half the dough will make a standard 18-inch pizza pie or 8 calzones/strombolis. Portion it out further for small personal pies. 4. Use the dough as directed in your recipe. Bake until golden brown and crisp, about 15 minutes.

Fleishigs MAY 2023

Basic No-Knead Dough, baked as focaccia (recipe above) Pesto (recipe follows) cups whole milk ricotta Balsamic Roasted Tomatoes (recipe follows)

1. Slice focaccia in half, then into large 5x5-inch squares. 2. Spread pesto on the focaccia squares. Top with ricotta and balsamic roasted tomatoes.

Balsamic Roasted Tomatoes Serves: 8

Arrange 8 halved plum tomatoes on a baking sheet. Mix ¼ cup extravirgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; drizzle over tomatoes and toss to coat. Roast in a 450°F oven for 25 minutes. MAKE IT PEACHY: For a sweeter element, use 8 peaches instead of tomatoes and sandwich between two squares of focaccia with ricotta, a drizzle of honey and arugula. The combination of the sweet peaches, tart balsamic, creamy ricotta and peppery arugula is delightful!

Pesto Yield: 2¼ cups

Blend 2 cups fresh basil leaves, 2 garlic cloves, ¾ cups extra-virgin olive oil, ⅓ cup toasted pine nuts, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add a few tablespoons Parmesan cheese and a squeeze of lemon juice (if desired).

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BREAKING BREAD

Bread that rises to the challenge.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

A RICH CHEESE WITH A RICHER HISTORY.

PECORINO ROMANO T H E V I B R A N T H I STO RY O F T H I S SA LT Y D E L I CACY BY: E L I S H E VA TA I TZ R EC I P E S BY: S H I F R A K L E I N

Custom butcher paper from @papernpresents / papernpresents.com 44

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BUTCHER'S CUT

THE HISTORY

ardinia, a large Italian island located in the Mediterranean, is known for its sandy beaches, hiking trails and… wait for it… Pecorino Romano cheese! Pecorino Romano cheese is a hard aged cheese made from 100% sheep’s milk. According to European Union law, in order to call it Pecorino, it has to be made in certain islands and provinces, with Sardinia being the main hub for the production of Pecorino Romano today. Slightly sharper than the more widely available Parmigiano Reggiano and asiago, Pecorino Romano cheese dates back centuries and was a staple in the diets of many Roman soldiers. Traditionally, the cheese is made using lamb rennet, which of course renders it not kosher. In comes Brent Delman, otherwise known as The Cheese Guy, famous throughout the kosher market as the producer of all-natural, kosher, vegetarian cheese. Brent’s cheeses utilize milk from pasture- or grass-fed animals, with a focus on small, familyowned farms. With over 20 years of experience, Brent is committed to using high-quality products to produce the most mouthwatering, artisanal cheese. When it came time for Brent to delve into the world of Pecorino Romano, he knew he needed to do it authentically and that meant traveling to Sardinia. “The Sardinian people are very warm, very proud people and they open their homes and farms to us,” he explains. “Because our production is cholov yisroel, we have a mashgiach that spends hours on the farm, starting from the milking process — there are no shortcuts.” Even though there is no Jewish presence on the island currently and there has not been kosher cheese production there in modern times, the affinity from the Sardinian people towards the Jews runs deep.

Brent Delman, otherwise known as The Cheese Guy, is famous throughout the kosher market as the producer of all-natural, kosher, vegetarian cheese.

“THE SARDINIAN PEOPLE ARE VERY WARM, VERY PROUD PEOPLE AND THEY OPEN THEIR HOMES AND FARMS TO US." MAY 2023

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BUTCHER'S CUT

“THEY UNDERSTAND THAT THE ANCIENT JEWISH TEXTS DESCRIBE HOW TO MAKE CHEESE FROM THE THISTLE PLANT, A PRACTICE AMONG SARDINIAN JEWS THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO.” Brent explained that cardo, the purple thistle plant that grows throughout the island, is actually used as the coagulant (or the rennet alternative) for the production of kosher (thereby vegetarian) cheese. The fascinating part is that this process is actually written up in the Talmud, something the Sardinians are well aware of. “They understand that the ancient Jewish texts describe how to make cheese from the thistle plant, a practice among Sardinian Jews thousands of years ago,” Brent shares. There are remnants of the Inquisition-era Jewish ghetto in the city of Cagliari on the island. Sadly, the last of the Jewish residents of Sardinia were killed during the Holocaust. So while many enjoy this luxurious Italian cheese, kosher to some of the highest standards made possible by cheesemakers like Brent, most are not aware of its deep history and roots to Sardinia. THE PROCESS

resh sheep’s milk is delivered to creameries (cheese production facilities), where the milk goes through a process called thermization. Thermization is a process whereby the milk is heated to get rid of any unwanted bacteria; the temperature for this process is lower than pasteurization, but not high enough to kill good bacteria and the original taste of the milk. In the United States, this is considered a raw milk cheese. Next, the milk is transferred into vats and bacterial starter cultures

Fleishigs MAY 2023

are added. This is when the coagulant is added as well. The milk is heated again, the developed curds are cut into small cubes and then pressed. The pressed cheese curds are then put into large, round cheese molds and are then separated from the whey. They are taken out, salted daily for a few months and left to age on wooden shelves for 8-12 months. The Cheese Guy Pecorino Romano is generally aged between 1-2 years. At the 6–month mark, Pecorino Romano is generally semi-soft and sweet and considered more of a table cheese. From 6 months to 1 year, the texture begins to harden and the taste becomes sharper and saltier, which makes it ideal for grating. In the kosher world, a cheese is considered a hard cheese after it’s aged more than 6 months. Many people who keep kosher will wait (depending upon their custom) a few hours after eating hard cheese before eating meat. When one tastes the hard cheese by letting it sit on your palate for a few seconds, there’s an initial nuttiness to the taste, then the saltiness comes after. With good Pecorino Romano, the taste and layers of flavors will linger in your mouth for many minutes after consuming it. STORAGE AND USAGE

ecorino Romano is sharp and mildly salty. It lasts for months in the fridge when tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, parchment paper or cheese paper. Even if it grows a little mold, you can cut off that piece of cheese and the rest is still good to eat! Think beyond the shaker of Parmesan and opt for Pecorino Romano for your dishes. Grate it over pasta, roasted vegetables or soup. The perfect addition to a cheese board, it’s also delicious eaten as is on crackers with a bit of fruit jam. However you choose to use it, it will be a welcome change. Look for The Cheese Guy products in many retailers worldwide and online at growandbehold.com. www.fleishigs.com

CELEBRATE SHAVUOS BENEATH THE PALMS! FOR GENERAL INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS PLEASE CONTACT INFO@THEALTAIRHOTEL.COM

EXPERIENCE SHAVUOS AT THE ALTAIR HOTEL MAY 25-28, 2023 Stay tuned for uplifting lectures led by Scholar in Residence, Rabbi Yitzchak Feldheim, along with beautiful Davening and Ruach by renowned singer, enny mar.

FEATURING:

• ORLD-CLASS DINING

Rabbi Yitzchak Feldheim

• LUXURY ACCOMMODATION • LAVISH DAILY IDDUSH • UPLIFTING SHIURIM • BEAUTIFUL DAVENING

• SHAVUOS ALL NIGHT LEARNING All meals are curated by Ovo at the Altair, and under the strict supervision of KM. All dairy products are Cholov Yisroel and all meat has Chassidishe Shechita.

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TheAltai-Hotel.com • 8 .535.1500

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BUTCHER'S CUT

A PEC IN YOUR CHEEKS.

CHANGE IT UP: Adding garlic isn’t traditional, but doesn’t take away from the overall integrity of the dish. Add 1-2 cloves minced garlic to the skillet with the black pepper and proceed with the recipe.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Cacio e Pepe Serves: 8

The sauce for this classic spaghetti dish comes together with some butter, freshly cracked black pepper, grated Pecorino Romano cheese and starchy pasta water — so creamy and delicious. N OT E S :

• While spaghetti is classic, bucatini, which is similar in shape but has a penne-like hole down the center, is great too. As you bite into what looks like spaghetti, an explosion of more flavor bursts into your mouth. • I highly recommend grating the cheese fresh, as pre-grated cheese may have additives that could prevent it from mixing cohesively into the sauce. • Since the cheese can be salty, the kosher salt in the recipe is just to taste.

CACIO E PEPE, ONE OF THE MOST CLASSIC ROMAN PASTA DISHES, UTILIZES MINIMAL INGREDIENTS THAT PERFECTLY REPRESENT ROMAN FOOD. LITERALLY TRANSLATED, CACIO MEANS CHEESE (THE STAR IN THIS CASE IS PECORINO ROMANO) AND PEPE MEANS PEPPER. HERE ARE SOME DISHES INSPIRED BY THIS ICONIC FLAVOR PROFILE.

1 ¼ 1 3 ½-1 1½

pound spaghetti or bucatini cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, plus more for serving tablespoons unsalted butter cup heavy cream, optional cups grated Pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (use a Microplane or the smallest holes of a box grater) cup grated Parmesan cheese Kosher salt, to taste

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Cook al dente according to package instructions. Drain, reserving 2 cups of pasta water; set aside. 2. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add black pepper and cook until sizzling, about 1 minute. 3. Add butter and ½ cup reserved pasta water (or heavy cream). Add hot pasta. 4. Add cheese and, using tongs, stir until completely melted. Add a few more tablespoons of pasta water to the skillet, until the sauce is creamy and coats each strand of pasta. 5. Add salt and more black pepper, to taste. Serve immediately with more grated cheese and black pepper.

MAY 2023

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BUTCHER'S CUT

STAY SALTY.

Cacio e Pepe Eggplant Serves: 4-6

I love the humble eggplant, so elevating it brings me so much joy. Look for the Japanese variety, which is long and slender. It is also less bitter and an elegant way to serve whole slices to a crowd. 4 2 1 1-2 1-2

Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt cups shaved Pecorino Romano cheese teaspoons freshly ground black pepper Balsamic glaze, such as Tuscanini, for drizzling Fresh basil and toasted pine nuts (optional), for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss eggplant with oil and salt and arrange, cut-side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast until golden brown, about 25 minutes. 2. Arrange roasted eggplant on a platter. Shave cheese over the top and season with black pepper. Drizzle with balsamic reduction. Garnish with basil and toasted pine nuts (if desired).

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THE AJMADISON GUIDE TO OUTDOOR KITCHENS

A-LIST APPLIANCES: BUILD THE PERFECT OUTDOOR FAMILY KITCHEN GRILLED TO PERFECTION: DISCOVER THE IDEAL GRILL OR BARBEQUE

Featured: Chef Adres Dangond, Director of Culinary Development at Lynx Grills, Inc., cooking on Lynx Outdoor Kitchen Appliances. *Please see back cover for more details.

F R OM

T HE

A PPLI A NC E

EXPE RTS

A JM A D IS O N

Featured: DCS Outdoor Kitchen Appliances Grill SKU: BE148RC, Storage SKU: ADR248, Griddle SKU: GDE130, Warming Drawer SKU: WD130SSOD, Side Burner SKU: SBE1142, Power Burner SKU: PBE124, Towel Holder SKU: TDS120 and Triple Drawer SKU: TDT120

outdoor amour Conceiving, creating and installing the ultimate outdoor kitchen is second nature to AjMadison. Just like inside the home, the heart and soul of any outdoor living space is its kitchen. This is where family and friends gather to prep food, mix refreshing drinks and cocktails and keep the chef or grill meister company as they create amazing alfresco meals to celebrate special occasions or elevate the everyday. Outdoor kitchens are also a wonderful way to add interest and excitement to any renovation project and bring greater value to the home.

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When it comes to outdoor kitchen appliances and accessories, there are endless makes, models and options, as well as boundless opportunities for customization that suit every need, taste and price point. This is where AjMadison comes in. Their highly-trained showroom staff and team of installation experts are here to help design and deliver an appliance package that will make outdoor dreams a reality for years to come.

the great grill-off The Built-In Grill vs. The Freestanding Grill Built-in: A built-in grill is finished only on the top and front and is installed into an outdoor cabinet or hardscape. It’s best to install it into a non-combustible surface like cement or stone. Built-in grills can either be installed into a custom enclosure or used on a freestanding grill cart (sold separately). For those who entertain often, it will provide an impressive focal point to any outdoor eating area. Freestanding: A freestanding grill can be used almost anywhere and is the most popular choice among homeowners. It can stand alone since it has matching paneling on all sides that give it a complete and finished look from every angle. It is convenient to install and many models offer storage that hides the gas tank or gas connection from view.

foodie finds The extra ingredients for the outstanding outdoor kitchen.

it’s haute out there! AjMadison reveals the latest outdoor living trends. PERMANENT STRUCTURES

pizza ovens

power burners

Heats up to 700 degrees in minutes to cook artisan pizzas, baked bread or a favorite skillet dinner.

Extra burners for preparing sides or sauces are particularly helpful if the grill is far from the kitchen.

Lynx Pizza Oven SKU: LPZA

DCS Power Burner SKU: PBE124

outdoor griddles

warming drawers

Offering more capacity and flexibility, a flat-top griddle allows the menu to expand.

Keep hot food at a safe temperature without overcooking or drying it out.

DCS Griddle SKU: GDE130

DCS Warming Drawer SKU: WD130SSOD

THE THRILL OF THE GRILL The first thing to decide is what type of grill to purchase. But no matter which is chosen, great outdoor cooking will be the result!

Gas Grills Easy to ignite and lets cooking start in 10 minutes Precise temperature control for even cooking Available in many brands/sizes/colors/prices Sear stations provide concentrated high heat to lock in juices and flavor Smoker box accessory allows for flavored chips to deliver more authentic flavor Side burners provide more cooking space

Charcoal Grills Rich, smoky barbeque flavor only a flame can provide Briquettes or lump charcoal are lit with a match and take 15-30 minutes to heat up Cooking with charcoal can be messy, so select a grill with a high-capacity ash collection system for easy cleanup Less expensive, but the cost of charcoal might surpass the cost of gas over time

Pellet Grills Available in several shapes and sizes Uses small wooden pellets crafted from compressed sawdust as fuel Simply fill the pellet hopper with the perfect wood pellets, hit the ignition and let the pellet grill do the rest Some models offer smart features to monitor grill temperature and progress

Kamado Grills Also known as ceramic charcoal grills, they combine smoky charcoal flavor with an oven’s superior insulation and temperature control Multilevel racks make it possible to cook at different temperatures simultaneously Thick ceramic walls provide excellent temperature control

• • • • • •

• • • •

• • •

Electric Grills Great option for apartments or condos with residential restrictions Easy to start and heats up evenly using existing electricity Powered from a 120-volt or 220-volt outlet Least expensive type of grill

More builders and remodelers are committing to a built-in outdoor kitchen setup as well as durable furniture and living essentials for an exceptional outdoor lifestyle.

RECREATIONAL RETREAT Appliances enhance creative recreational spaces, so adding amenities like a poolside bar, a putting green and outdoor exercise area brings joy and personality to exterior living spaces.

•

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS

• • •

If extreme temperature change is a factor, extend the outdoor living season with a fire pit, heater or a fan to keep family and friends comfortable all the year round.

SMALL SPACE SOLUTIONS A mere six feet is all it takes to incorporate a number of small space appliances into an exciting and highly-functional outdoor living environment. Hybrid Grills Gas grills with an option for charcoal or wood chips provide added flavor and versatility Provides the ability to cook with gas and charcoal or wood chips at the same time Available on select professional grills

• • •

L ARGE PROPE RTIES AND ESTATES Bringing comfort and convenience to a larger property might include a poolside refrigerator in the cabana or multiple grills for guesthouses or recreation areas located away from the main outdoor kitchen.

Tune into “Ask the Appliance Experts” podcast as we chat with Vanessa Deleon about designing her DCS Outdoor Kitchen.

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ready, set, host Exceptional outdoor appliances and accessories that are the host’s best friends. Entertaining at home has become a social rite over the past few years. Because of this, beautiful, functional outdoor living areas are a top priority with anyone undertaking a new build or remodeling a beloved family home. And at the heart of this movement is the properly-equipped outdoor kitchen, which is the key to making alfresco entertaining easier and more enjoyable.

One of the best things about today’s outdoor kitchens is that appliances and accessories can be customized to express the aesthetic tastes, cooking needs and entertaining styles of each and every host. Customization can take on many forms, including colorful outdoor appliances, custom conﬁgurations and a curated appliance package that reﬂects the wants, needs and visions of the homeowner and family chef. And the appliance authorities at AjMadison are the perfect team to help conceive and create a one-of-a-kind outdoor kitchen.

04 02

XO Outdoor Kitchen Appliance Grill SKU: XOGRILL42, Access Doors SKU: XOG42DD, Trash Recycle SKU: XOG20TRASH2, Side Burner SKU: XOGPOWER60K, Access Doors SKU: XOG36DD, Refrigerator SKU: XOU24ORSR, Bar SKU: XOG30BARPRO and Access Doors SKU: XOG30DD

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SETTING THE BAR Creating the quintessential custom wet bar.

a blueprint for the ideal outdoor kitchen These are the four essential work zones that make the outdoor kitchen a welcoming and highly-functional oasis for cooking and entertaining with gusto.

Refrigerator and Freezer Drawers Provide ready access to drinks and perishables with easy-to-reach drawer designs.

COOKING

Grills, side burners, warming drawers and vent hoods

02 REFRIGERATION

Refrigerators, freezers, wine coolers, ice makers and more

03 STORAGE

Doors, drawers, cabinets and islands

Ice Makers Produce up to 75 pounds of crystal clear ice per day, keeping the drinks colder and the party cooler.

04 CLEANUP

Trash and recycle centers, sinks and faucets and outdoor dishwashers Wine Coolers Available in single or dual zones to keep the collection at the optimal temperature.

Beverage Centers Combine wine racks and refrigerator storage for extra versatility.

03 Cocktail Stations Multipurpose appliances that combine a sink, faucet, ice bin, space for garnishes and more, which means that all wet bar essentials are easily accessible in one place.

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pro picks vs. high standards From the professional chef with a taste for great outdoor cooking to the backyard barbeque enthusiast who enjoys hosting family and friends on the weekends, the appliance experts at AjMadison have the exact right grill to suit their

wants, needs and styles. The AjMadison team created a simple breakdown that showcases the bells and whistles of a luxury model and highlights the streamline and straightforward features found on a standard model.

basic gas grill Need appliances fast? Ask about AjMadison’s In Stock Promise™ at ajmadison.com/instock

06 07

05 03

01. Temperature Gauge

07. Four Stainless-Steel Burners that deliver 48,000 Total BTUs*

02. Electronic Ignition 03. Extra-Large Sear Zone

08. 787 Square Inches of Cooking Capacity

04. Warming Rack* 05. Side Burner

09. Fits a 20-Pound Propane Tank

06. Stainless-Steel Cooking Grates*

*Not shown

42''

x x

48''

<54''

Wind Deflector

33''

304-Grade Stainless or Better

36''

x x

DCS

Hestan

Lynx

Viking

Coyote

30''

ADA Option

<29''

Alfresco

Freestanding Options

This informative and easy-to-use chart makes finding the perfect grill a picnic.

Built-In Options

PRO GRILL COMPARISON

Weber Genesis SKU: 36400001

Weber Summit

Wolf

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lynx professional grill 09. 1,200 Square Inches of Cooking Capacity

01. Easy-Open Lid with Wind Deflector

05. Smoker Box

02. Temperature Gauge

06. Halogen Task Lighting*

03. Illuminated Control Knobs

07. Stainless-Steel Cooking Grates*

04. 304-Grade Stainless-Steel and Seamless Welded Construction

08. Five Briquette and Ceramic Burners that Deliver 98,000 Total BTUs*

10. Rotisserie and Infrared

Rotisserie Burner Included* *Not shown

09 07 02

x x

Color Options

Smoker Box

Infrared Rotisserie Burner

Included Rotisserie

Warming Rack

Tube Burners

Briquette Surface Burners

Infrared Surface Burner

High-Temp Sear Station

Hybrid Cooking Charcoal

x x

Electronic Ignition

Lynx Professional SKU: L54TRF

Metal Surface Grates

Task Lighting

Knob Lighting

Easy-Open Lid

*This chart is intended to provide a general overview of the features available within each collection. Please note that the exact features may vary depending on the product chosen.

ajmadison.com | 800.570.3355 | 07

DCS Outdoor Kitchen Appliances, Grill SKU: BE148RC, Storage SKU: ADR248, Refrigerator Drawers SKU: RF24DE4, Side Burner SKU: PBE124

Why AjMadison? Free Nationwide Delivery In Stock Promise™ Installation Services Available Concierge Service Extended Protection Plans Financing Available

*Front Cover Details: Pizza Oven SKU: LPZA, Storage SKU: LDR30T4, Grill SKU: L36TR, Power Burner SKU: LPB, Trash Recycle SKU: L20TR4, Asado Grill SKU: L30AG and Storage SKU: LTA304

best in class For 20 years, thousands of trade professionals have trusted

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SEASONAL FEAST

A LIGHTSOUT FEAST.

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SEASONAL FEAST

SHAVUOS FEAST INSPIRED BY THE FLAVORS OF ROME BY: C H A N I E A P F E L BAU M P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R

alking through the ancient streets of Rome, you can't help but notice how impeccably people are dressed. The women are so polished and vibrant; I wonder, is the Trevi Fountain the Fountain of Youth? As I toured the city, it became obvious to me that the Roman diet — rich with seasonal produce, fresh fish, rich olive oil, simple pizza bread and homemade pasta — is the secret to their vitality. Carbs are the enemy of American diet culture, but in Italy, good quality flour and fresh ingredients make their glutenous goodies more easily digestible, and a culture that focuses on meals, rather than snacks, keeps them energetic and healthy. Supermarkets are small with a focus on fresh produce. You won't find chips or chocolate bars, just portion-sized packages of dried fruits and nuts. There are no salad dressing or dips

in the country, just a bottle of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper on the table to season salad or dip artichokes. At Campo de Fiori and local produce markets, you'll find jumbo lemons, mountains of fresh basil, the most beautiful artichokes, heirloom tomatoes, zucchini with blossoms attached and endless stands of sundried tomatoes and herbs. Boutique shops are lined with colorful bags of handmade pasta, jars of anchovies for days, bottles of Aperol and limoncello and, of course, coffee and gelato that only dreams are made of. This inspired yet untraditional menu celebrates some of Rome's quintessential ingredients with a trendy twist. NOTE: A few of the following recipes call for Italian peperoncino flakes; if you can’t find them, use red pepper flakes instead.

MAY 2023

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SEASONAL FEAST

WHIPPE

D F

A BR

U S

MELON + BURRATA APPETIZER In Mediterranean cuisine, melons are often paired with salty cured meats and cheese, making for a surprising pairing. To bring some more Roman influence to Chanie’s feast, food stylist Chaya Rappoport created a melon burrata platter, a wonderful appetizer to accompany any Italian-style spread — cantaloupe wedges served with burrata, dressed with a drizzle of balsamic reduction and a sprinkle of Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper. Burrata, which is mild and creamy, can be found in every dairy restaurant in Rome and is available in select kosher markets by The Cheese Guy (see more on page 44). In fact, at Ba'Ghetto Milky, a kosher dairy restaurant in Rome, you can enjoy a burrata anchovy toast for only €6 that easily has $10 worth of burrata on it!

WE WILL DO AND WE WILL EAT. 62

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SEASONAL FEAST

KE S"

D TE O AS CH RO RTI A

K ZU E C TA C H PE INI NA WIT H DE

-C

S PA R K

LIN G

NI-I

Napkins and bud vases from lagoonlinens.com MAY 2023

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SEASONAL FEAST

Whipped Feta Bruschetta, Two Ways Serves: 8

A must-have appetizer that fuses the whipped feta trend with the Italian classic to celebrate Rome's bounty of beautiful produce. Mix it up for the season — serve with a pea mint salad for the spring and a tomato basil salad for the summer. Serve with crostini, which is just thinly sliced toasted baguette. FOR THE WHIPPED FETA: 1 (8.8-ounce) package feta cheese in brine, drained and patted dry ⅓ cup Greek yogurt Zest and juice of ½ lemon 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste FOR THE FRESH TOMATO SALAD: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 large vine tomatoes, diced 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 10 basil leaves, chiffonade Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste FOR THE FRESH PEA SALAD: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup blanched green peas 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 10 mint leaves, chiffonade Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste FOR SERVING: 2 tablespoons balsamic glaze, such as Tuscanini Sliced toasted baguette 1. For the whipped feta, add feta, yogurt, lemon zest, lemon juice and olive oil to a food processor fitted with the S-blade attachment; blend until smooth and creamy, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Transfer to a wide, shallow bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve. 2. For the salad, heat olive oil in a skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, but not browned. 3. Remove from heat and pour sautéed garlic and any remaining oil from the pan over tomatoes or peas, depending on which salad you’re making. Add balsamic vinegar and basil or mint. Season with salt and pepper, to taste; set aside to marinate for 30 minutes. 4. When ready to serve, top whipped feta with salad, drizzle with balsamic glaze and serve with toasted baguette.

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SEASONAL FEAST

Roasted Zucchini with Artichoke Tapenade Serves: 4-6

Wherever you go in Rome, artichokes will follow. They're on every menu — fried, braised and stuffed — and they don't compare to anything you've ever had! Since beautiful blossoms are hard to find locally, I went for the canned variety and pulsed it into a savory tapenade to slather on the viral Thomas Keller-inspired zucchini that's been all over social media feeds.

FOR THE ARTICHOKE TAPENADE: 1 (14-ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained well and patted dry 2 Calabrian chili peppers in oil, such as Tuscanini, or ½ teaspoon peperoncino flakes 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil ½ cup pitted kalamata olives Juice of ½ lemon 2 cloves garlic 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons capers FOR THE ROASTED ZUCCHINI: 3 medium zucchini, cut lengthwise 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons grapeseed or avocado oil ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons grated or shaved Parmesan cheese, optional ¼ cup olive oil

1. For the tapenade, add all ingredients to a food processor fitted with the S-blade attachment; pulse until finely chopped. 2. For the roasted zucchini, use a paring knife to score a crosshatch pattern into the cut-sides of the zucchini. Season with salt and set aside for 20 minutes to draw out some of the moisture. Pat well with a paper towel. 3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat grapeseed oil in a skillet over high heat. Working in batches, sear zucchini, cut-side down, for 3 minutes, until deeply browned. Transfer zucchini, cut-side up, to a parchment-lined baking sheet. 4. Spread some artichoke tapenade over zucchini, then sprinkle with ¼ cup Parmesan (if desired). Drizzle with olive oil and cook for about 8 minutes, until zucchini is fork tender. Turn oven to broil and broil for 2 minutes, until browned. Top with remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan (if desired).

MAY 2023

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SEASONAL FEAST

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SEASONAL FEAST

Potato-Crusted Cod Serves: 4

This dish was inspired by my food crawl of the Jewish Ghetto. Baccala, or cod, is a popular fish choice in Jewish Roman dishes, and in Renato al Ghetto, I had some stuffed into zucchini blossoms that were battered and fried. At Bona Pizza, just down the road, I marveled at the deliciousness of the simple potato pie flecked with rosemary. Here, I shingle potatoes over cod in the same manner, to resemble fish scales, and the results are simply delicious. 4 1 ½ 2 3 ¼ ⅓

(4-ounce) fillets cod, cut crosswise teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper sprigs fresh rosemary, minced Yukon gold potatoes, thinly sliced on a mandoline cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided cup capers

1. Season fish with salt, pepper and rosemary. Layer the potatoes in an overlapping pattern over the fish fillets. 2. Preheat oven 400°F. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working one at a time, use a fish spatula to transfer the fish, potato-side down, into the skillet (use your hand to hold the potatoes down as you gently flip). Fry fish for 5 minutes, until potatoes are deeply golden. 3. Add capers, then transfer skillet to the oven; cook for 5 minutes, until fish flakes easily with a fork. Invert to serve.

MAY 2023

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SEASONAL FEAST

Savory "Shlishkes" Serves: 4-6

This recipe was inspired by the Hungarian dish of shlishkes that I grew up with — essentially potato gnocchi rolled in sweetened bread crumbs. I decided to play up the umami-rich quality of anchovies for a savory take on the classic that's speckled with garlic, peperoncino flakes, lemon and parsley — staples of the Roman diet. ¼ ¼ 6 4 ¼ 1 3 ½ 1

cup butter cup extra-virgin olive oil anchovy fillets packed in olive oil cloves garlic, minced teaspoon peperoncino flakes cup bread crumbs Zest of ½ lemon tablespoons chopped fresh parsley teaspoon kosher salt (16-ounce) package store-bought gnocchi

1. Bring a 6-quart pot of salted water to a simmer. 2. Heat butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add anchovies and sauté until dissolved. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant. Stir in peperoncino flakes, then add bread crumbs; stir until crisped and golden, about 5 minutes. 3. Remove from heat and add lemon zest, parsley and salt; stir to combine. 4. Add gnocchi to simmering water and cook until they float to the surface, about 3 minutes. Drain gnocchi and transfer immediately to the skillet with the bread crumbs; toss to coat.

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ITALIAN COLLECTION

Fresh Mozzarella Thin-Sliced

Authentic fresh mozzarella that stretches further with thinner slices. There’s more to share in every package! www.naturalandkosher.com Anderson International Foods, Inc. Jersey City, NJ 07305

SEASONAL FEAST

Lemon Ricotta Cake Serves: 8-10

You have never seen lemons more beautiful and bountiful than those found in Italy, particularly on the Amalfi coast. So I can think of no better way to end a Roman feast than to celebrate the humble lemon! Lemon ricotta cake is a classic Italian dessert, and while many recipes use butter, I opted for olive oil for a fruity finish. 1 1 ⅓ 1 2 1½ 1½ ¼ ½

cup whole milk ricotta cheese cup sugar cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon almond extract Zest of 2 lemons extra-large eggs cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt Confectioners’ sugar, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 9-inch cake pan with parchment paper and grease with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. 2. In a large bowl, whisk ricotta, sugar, olive oil, almond extract, lemon zest and eggs. In a second bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add dry ingredients to the wet ingredients; mix until just incorporated. 3. Pour batter into the prepared cake pan and bake for 45-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Dust with confectioners’ sugar before serving.

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WHEN IN 74

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TRAVEL

ome is an ancient city that dates back to 625 BCE. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so great care is taken to preserve everything ancient. Walking through Rome is an active walk through history; almost every building, statue and plaque tells a tale. We were given a hands-on lesson on Rome's centuries-old history and transition of empires and leaders, with examples of the changing architecture and artistic periods from the Renaissance (14th-17th centuries) to the Baroque period (17th-18th centuries).

ROME

Since the Roman Empire was ruled by the Catholic Church for centuries, much of Roman culture centers around churches and holy sites that attract millions of visitors each year. As an observant Jew, there was plenty to see and experience beyond those sites. In fact, Rome has a tremendously impactful and inspiring Jewish history that speaks to the trials and tribulations of the Jewish nation. The most famous center of Jewish history is the Jewish Ghetto, which tells the tale of centuries of Jews forced to live within a three or four block radius, with limited job opportunities and food available. Rome has so much to offer Jewish visitors. Beyond many Jewish sites, there is a wide variety of kosher food. If you love spending your days walking, exploring, shopping and soaking in history and culture, Rome is the place for you.

T R AV E L I N G TO T H I S A N C I E N T C I T Y W I T H J E W I S H RO OTS I S T H E T R I P O F A L I F E T I M E . H E R E A R E O U R T I P S A N D T R I C KS FO R D O I N G I T R I G H T.

» G E N E R A L I N FO

BY: S H I F R A A N D S H LO M O K L E I N

» W H E R E TO STAY

» TO P T E N T H I N GS TO D O » W H E R E TO E AT

B RO U G H T TO YO U BY: H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L Fleishigs

TRAVEL

GENERAL INFORMATION

TIMELINE: Depending on your travel style and time constraints, Rome can be experienced in two full days. However, there is plenty to keep you busy for a few days longer, especially if you have time to settle into the country and time zone. If you have some extra time, Shabbat is a wonderful experience — kosher food, Shabbat meals and synagogues are easily accessible (see page 93 for more).

SURROUNDING AREAS: Visiting Rome is exciting in and of itself. Due to easy access to surrounding cities by rail, many travelers will also take the opportunity to visit Florence and Tuscany as well. Florence is a 1½ hour train ride from Rome and makes a great day trip. If you have more time, consider booking a truffle hunt and kosher winery tour in the surrounding areas of Tuscany (you will need time to travel by taxi). Look out for more about Florence in the upcoming June issue.

THE MOST POPULAR MONTHS TO VISIT ROME ARE FROM MAY TO JULY/AUGUST, SO EXPECT CROWDS AND HIGHER PRICED HOTEL ROOMS.

WHEN TO GO: Our trip was in March and the weather was glorious, but keep in mind that March is a tricky month in Italy — the weather is unreliable and it can be rainy. There was one day of rain (which comes and goes throughout the day) and we witnessed hail on a 60° day! It lasted half an hour on a day we happened to be shopping; since we had no umbrellas, we had to hunker down in a shop until it passed. The most popular months to visit Rome are from May to July/ August, so expect crowds and higher priced hotel rooms. July and August can be very hot and Rome is not well known for its use of air conditioning — there is a reason everyone eats al fresco (outdoors)! When it’s 90° out, it’s cooler outside under umbrellas than inside. Unless you are planning a trip to a coastal city, Rome truly is a wonderful place to visit any time of year, but does have a four season climate, so plan accordingly.

The Colloseum

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TRAVEL

P E R KS O F T R AV E L AG E N CY: When planning our trip, we heavily relied on our travel agents at High Class Travel. Since we had never visited Italy before and we were swamped with work leading up to the trip, researching a new city felt like a daunting task. Just in terms of saving time and resources, using the travel agency was already well worth it. Along the way we experienced some additional perks and advantages of working with a travel agency and plan to do the same for our future trips: 1. Experts in the field of travel. Travel agents know their stuff and allow you the luxury of saving time and headspace by doing the planning for you. 2. Expand your horizons. We never planned on doing anything beyond the food scene in Rome. Upon sharing our plans with the team at High Class Travel, they insisted on a few additions to our itinerary, offering us opportunities we never would have otherwise experienced.

Views from Villa Borghese

GETTING AROUND: Come prepared with your best walking shoes. Our observations led us to conclude that the vast majority of tourists and locals wear super comfortable shoes while touring Rome. The best way to get around is by foot. You can also take cabs — they are plentiful and easy to come by — but in some areas, especially outside the main center of Rome, it’s worth downloading the local app, so you can call a cab to your precise location. We used FREENOW, an app for taxis that works in multiple cities throughout Europe. Another fun way to get around is by scooter. To be prepared, download the LIME app in advance. Driving and parking in Rome is super challenging, so don’t even consider renting a car. It puts the toughest NYC driving to shame! Crossing the street can also be a nightmare.

3. Invaluable assistance. Travel agents help out along the way and take care of any travel issues that may come up, such as dealing with delays. They are a quick text away. 4. Perks and upgrade benefits. Many travel agencies have relationships with hotels and resorts that come with automatic upgrades. Some of the perks we experienced on this trip were: chilled kosher wine in Positano; a resort with a chef who was able to prepare kosher meals; a special rate for staying an extra day. 5. Convert credit card points. For large pointholders, using a travel agency will give you the most benefit for your point value.

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what to do

TRAVEL

BOOK A GUIDED TOUR

There is so much information to learn about the sites and history of Rome. Even if you are independent travelers (like we are), you truly need a guide to experience Rome to the fullest. Booking at least one guided tour will transform your experience in Rome. We recommend doing it at the start of the trip to get a firm grounding in the city. Ask your guide lots of questions to start your trip off on the right foot. We enjoyed three different guided tours on our trip, all arranged by High Class Travel — a Rome at Night tour; an espresso tour; and a tour of the Jewish Ghetto.

YOU TRULY NEED A GUIDE TO EXPERIENCE ROME TO THE FULLEST

Arch of Titus

TAKE A COOKING CLASS Many of the kosher restaurants, like Ba’Ghetto and Yotvata, offer cooking classes, which is a fun way to spend the day. Ba’Ghetto’s class is about three hours long, focuses on Roman Jewish cuisine and costs about €100 per person. Visit the restaurants’ websites (yotvata.it and baghetto.com) to make a reservation and learn more. TIP: IF YOU BOOK A TOUR WITH A GUIDE OR THROUGH A TRAVEL AGENT, THEY CAN ARRANGE A CUSTOMIZED CLASS FOR YOU AS WELL.

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TRAVEL

Great Synagogue of Rome

TOUR THE JEWISH GHETTO

Center of Rome: The Jewish Ghetto: Today’s Jewish Ghetto is much larger than the three or so narrow blocks the Jews of Rome were confined to for 300 years; the restrictions then dictated where the Jews could go, what jobs they could have and even what food they were allowed to eat. It’s here that many Jewish Roman classic dishes were born. Because of the squalor in which they lived, most Jewish families did not have proper kitchens. There were communal vats of oil, changed only once a year for Pesach, in which they fried their food for a quick and effective way to prepare meals. Artichokes, a local weed, grew wild in the fields surrounding the Ghetto. Thus, it became

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Tour of the Jewish Ghetto with Nofar Kashi Moresco from Neman Collection

one of the cheap staples thrown into the oil. Today, fried artichokes are fondly called Carciofi alla Giudia, Jewish-style artichokes, a nod to the Jews who popularized it. This delicacy is served at almost every restaurant on the strip of the Jewish Ghetto and beyond. Along Portia de Octavia, the main street of the Jewish Ghetto, is a collection of restaurants that all serve Jewish cuisine, although not all the restaurants in the area are kosher. You can tell by reading the menu — some non-certified restaurants are kosher-style but serve dairy and meat.

ARTICHOKES, A LOCAL WEED, GREW WILD IN THE FIELDS SURROUNDING THE GHETTO.

Jewish art on the walls in the Jewish Ghetto

We spent five hours on a tour of the Jewish Ghetto with Nofar Kashi Moresco from Neman Collection (nemancollection. com). We learned so much invaluable information that enhanced our experience and understanding of Roman Jewish culture. We loved the culinary element of tastings of the food around the Ghetto. We learned all about Carciofi alla Giudia (Roman-Jewish fried artichokes) and why every time you find a fried artichoke it will be called by this name. (See page 26 for more on artichokes.)

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TRAVEL

Museo Della Shoah

HOLOCAUST MEMORIALS

Su’Ghetto

1. Museo Della Shoah is a small Holocaust museum located steps away from the Great Synagogue of Rome. museodellashoah.it 2. In the cobblestone streets of Rome, over 200 brass cobblestone tiles can be found as part of the somewhat controversial Stolpersteine, German for stumbling stones. This Holocaust memorial was conceived by artist Gunter Demnig, who began setting brass tiles commemorating victims of the Holocaust in 1992 in Berlin. To this day, he has set over 70,000 tiles throughout 1,200 cities across Europe and Russia near the victims' former homes or places of work. Some feel it’s disrespectful to the victims as they are literally being “stepped on'' by pedestrians who may not even notice the meaning of the steps they are taking. However, others feel as though it’s a haunting reminder of the tragic past and a way to integrate the memory of those lost within the very fabric of the cities in which they lived. Jewish Museum of Rome

WE LEARNED SO MUCH INVALUABLE INFORMATION THAT ENHANCED OUR EXPERIENCE AND UNDERSTANDING OF ROMAN JEWISH CULTURE.

JEWISH MUSEUM OF ROME The museum offers a reconstruction of Jewish life in Rome and shows how Jews managed to integrate into the socio-economic structure of the city, while maintaining their own identities. The rich collection includes liturgical furnishings, manuscripts, incunabula, historical documents, records and marble works. Be prepared for tight security when you arrive. You can purchase tickets at the door, but if you don't want to wait, book tickets online. museoebraico. roma.it

We began our guided tour of the Jewish Ghetto at a collection of nine brass cobblestones, chillingly commemorating one large extended family who perished in Auschwitz, aside from one son who came back after the war and started a new life. That sole survivor was the grandfather of our guide’s husband, making the account that much more meaningful.

Stolpersteine Holocaust memorial

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TRAVEL

Everything has a story and history behind it; a simple 30-minute walk will be met with historical sites, making Rome an incredible city for history buffs, architecture lovers, people looking to learn about the past and also an incredible city for walking and shopping. Stores stay open late, so there is a great nightlife too. Via del Corso is the main shopping avenue in Rome. It runs through the center of Rome and is near a lot of sites, so as

you walk to Campo di Fiori (see below) or to the Colosseum, you can spend some time shopping along the way. Because there are so many churches in Rome that require modest attire, the shops in Rome have a large selection of modest clothing. Brands like H&M and Zara were well stocked with dresses, skirts and jackets that are perfect for the modest dresser.

SHOP LOCALLY

Colosseum

VISIT HISTORICAL SITES The Colosseum

PERUSE THE CAMPO DE FIORI MARKET

The Colosseum is one of the most famous historical sites in Rome. It was said to be built by Jewish slaves using the spoils of war and riches King Titus took hold of when the Second Temple was destroyed. This site holds a memory of terrible times for the Jewish nation. Neighboring the Colosseum is The Forum and Palatine Hill. The Forum houses the Arch of Titus, which actually depicts King Titus and his army leaving Israel with Jewish slaves and items belonging to the Temple, like the menorah. Buying tickets in advance online is suggested, as buying tickets at the door can be complicated. It’s worth doing research beforehand to see which tour works best for you.

Located at the historical Campo de Fiori, this food and gift market is open daily from 7:30 AM to 2:00 PM. It’s famous as a site where many were publicly executed (like the philosopher Giardano Bruno, whose statue memorializes the event in the center of the square), but is also known as the site where the Talmud was burned on Rosh Hashana in 1553, two years before the Jewish Ghetto was created. There is a stand right by the plaque commemorating that terrible day in Jewish

Fleishigs MAY 2023

history that sells kosher limoncello, pasta and truffle products (ask to see the kosher certification). The vendors are very friendly to kosher and Jewish shoppers as the market is super close to the Jewish Ghetto and attracts many Jewish visitors. The market is a great place to not only buy local produce (it’s frequented by many locals), but is also a tourist’s haven with souvenirs galore. The market is reminiscent of the famous Machane Yehuda shuk in Jerusalem, which combines locals' needs with tourists' tastes.

There are many free sites in Rome that are open all day. The Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and Campo de Fiori are just a few. In addition, there are wonderful spots throughout Rome to see the skyline. Rome was built on seven hills. Today, the city has expanded beyond its original boundaries and you can catch great views at spots like il Pincio, Belvedere Gianicolo, Villa Borghese and Park of the Aqueducts. There are famous non-Jewish holy sites, like the Vatican, in Rome. There are mixed opinions on which sites Jewish people can and cannot visit in accordance with Jewish laws and customs. Consult your local Rabbi and do your own research to determine what works best for you. As mentioned above, there is so much to do in Rome without ever visiting a church. www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

7 Sant 'Eustachio il Caffè

EXPERIENCE COFFEE CULTURE Coffee in Italy is very different from the American experience. The first rule amongst Italians is that no one drinks milk-based coffee after 10 AM. When milk is used, it’s full-fat milk only. Rarely will you find low-fat milk or milk alternatives (like oat or almond milk). After 10 AM, shots of espresso are socially acceptable. Locals will converge at all times of day at a bar, which in Italy refers to a coffee bar, where they quickly sip a hot shot of espresso and move on with their day. A really fun way to spend a few hours in Rome is to partake in an espresso tour. You will get a sense of the local culture, learn a lot about coffee and see some famous sites along the way. High Class Travel arranged an espresso tour with Nofar from Neman Collection. There are well-reviewed coffee tours available to book online, but the price includes pastries and food that may not be fully kosher, so keep that in mind. You can also take a self-guided coffee tour by going to some coffee hot spots and soaking in the sites and sounds. Famous for their uniquely foamy espressos, Sant 'Eustachio il Caffè is one of the most famous coffee shops in the world, rumored to be the inspiration behind the creation of Nespresso. They are a few minutes walk from the Pantheon, so if you find yourself in the area, it’s worth taking a look.

DRIVE OUTSIDE ROME:

TOUR A WINERY

As part of the itinerary organized by High Class Travel, we were able to travel to southern Rome to visit the Sant'Andrea Winery Di Gabriele Pandolfo, which produces a small line of kosher wines under the Gabriele brand and is available in the United States. Because we went with a guide, it included a light meal and tasting that was done with separate kosher serving ware. While there, it was fascinating to watch locals at the winery with their own pitchers, filling up with wine from barrels and then mixing their own blends, a novelty service the winery provides to locals. You can also travel north to Tuscany by train and book a tour at Terra di Seta and Cantina Giuliano, two kosher wineries in that region.

9 10

VISIT A BUFFALO FARM Buffalo milk creates the best version of mozzarella cheese you will ever taste. It’s one of the most exciting culinary tastes Rome has to offer. Visiting the farm and cheese factory will show you what makes buffalo unique and how mozzarella cheese is made.

SHOP AT LUXURY OUTLETS For avid shoppers who love deals on designer clothes and bags, you can take a day trip and drive 35-40 minutes outside of Rome to the Castel Romano Designer Outlet.

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where to eat

TRAVEL

Rome offers a lot of kosher food, making it a wonderful destination for the kosher traveler. Most restaurants are concentrated on Portia de Octavia, a street in the area known as the Jewish Ghetto. There are also a handful of kosher shops, including a kosher grocery store called Kosher Delight in the Piazza Bologna neighborhood, home to a large Jewish community. In the other Jewish area, you will find Dolce Kosher, a local bakery, C’è Pasta e Pasta, a local pizza and pasta restaurant and another Kosher Delight location.

AT FLOUR, TRY A CORNETTO, ITALY'S VERSION OF A CROISSANT.

KOSHER NOTE: DAIRY: As of print date, all dairy products that are kosher under the hashgacha of the Rabbanut of Rome are cholov yisroel. MEAT: Not all of the meat in the kosher restaurants is glatt kosher. Please consult with your Rabbi to determine if a restaurant’s kosher status is right for you. WHEN ORDERING... SALAD: In Rome, salads aren't so popular. Most people believe in cooking vegetables. Therefore, salads come as a bowl of vegetables with a wedge of lemon. You can ask for olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper on the side to create your own dressing, but you will not find any dressed salads here. PIZZA: In Rome, we tasted two styles of pizza. The bakery style, baked in a sheet pan with a crisp bottom and airy center, is similar to a focacciastyle pizza. In restaurants, pizza is served as large, individual pies that are cracker thin, crispy at the edges, a bit floppy in the center and dressed very simply. Classic pizza is known to have plain tomato sauce and good quality mozzarella cheese. There’s no garlic or oregano, contrary to a New York-style pizza, so keep that in mind when ordering.

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Pizza, pastries and coffee at Flour Farina e Cucina

WHERE TO EAT OUTSIDE THE JEWISH GHETTO: FLOUR FARINA E CUCINA

LITTLE TRIPOLI

This is a popular breakfast and lunch spot for the local Roman Jewish community. It has a slightly different vibe from the other spots in the Jewish Ghetto that cater to tourists, something we appreciated. For breakfast, they serve pastries, coffee and fresh Roman-style pizza that can be purchased by the slice. Later on in the day, you can order pasta and other specialties. You can also order an Italianstyle croissant called a cornetto. Unlike the French-style croissant, a cornetto has a lot more sugar and eggs and is not as buttery or flaky, but rather softer and more pastry-like.

A third of the current 15,000+ Roman Jewish community is made up of Libyan Jews who were forced to flee Libya in the 1960s when Kadafi took power and expelled the Jews. Little Tripoli is a wonderful spot, beloved by the locals, to enjoy authentic Libyan food as well as Roman Jewish classics. Unfortunately, we missed out on visiting this glatt kosher gem because they were cleaning the restaurant for Pesach.

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TRAVEL

THE FOUR BROTHERS: In Italy, it’s all about family ties.

THE RESTAURANTS OF THE JEWISH GHETTO: BA’GHETTO

SU’GHETTO

The largest restaurant on the Jewish Ghetto block, Ba’Ghetto has seven doors and can host up to 600 people! The menu is expansive and offers something for everyone, with different kitchens for different types of food preparation. There is a bread and pasta section in the corner of the restaurant where a dedicated chef prepares bread, pasta and flatbreads fresh on the spot. All of the challah for the Shabbat meals that Ba’Ghetto hosts is made here as well.

Su’Ghetto is the fourth restaurant from the Ba’Ghetto family of restaurants and offers a smaller menu than Ba’Ghetto. You can find a combination of Roman Jewish classics as well as an assortment of more modernstyle grilled meats. If you can, ask to sit downstairs (underground!) — the space truly encapsulates the Roman experience, where everything is a story and everything has history.

What to order: Their meat version of carbonara is a must order, as well as the braised lamb shanks with roasted potatoes. We also recommend the beef carpaccio, which is served with marinated artichokes. The vegetarian artichoke soufflé, which is coated in non-dairy truffle cream sauce and topped with frizzled leeks, is unique, earthy and satisfying. Of course, there is an array of Roman Jewish classics like fried artichokes, eggplant caponata, fried cod, zucchini salad and braised chicory.

Ba’Ghetto is the largest kosher restaurant not only in the Jewish Ghetto, but in all of Italy. The owners of Ba’Ghetto are four brothers with Libyan roots who successfully expanded kosher to all corners of Italy, from the original location in Rome, to Florence, Milan and Venice. Beyond the four meat restaurants throughout Italy, the brothers operate Su Ghetto and Ba’Ghetto Milky (dairy) as well.

BA’GHETTO MILKY A dairy restaurant from the family that runs Ba’Ghetto, the dairy version is a solid choice for an assortment of pasta, pizza and traditional Roman Jewish cuisine. We enjoyed traditional suppli, a Roman tomato rice fritter, as well as their updated cacio e pepe suppli. This inspired our takes on cacio e pepe (see page 49). What to order: We thoroughly enjoyed the mixed fried platter, which gives you a taste of quite a few delicacies. This is also where we had the best tiramisu of our entire trip — super light and creamy, it was the perfect ending to the meal.

What to order: Try the classic Roman lamb and potatoes; beef tartare with artichoke cream; spaghetti carbonara; salmon carpaccio; and the mixed grill platter.

BA’GHETTO IS THE LARGEST KOSHER RESTAURANT NOT ONLY IN THE JEWISH GHETTO, BUT IN ALL OF ITALY. Mixed fried platter at Ba’Ghetto Milky

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CASALINO OSTERIA KOSHER This dairy restaurant is run by the husband and wife team who own Dolce Kosher, the local bakery. Casalino is the new kid on the block, having opened just two years ago. The couple loves what they do and it shows in the food and atmosphere. Like all restaurants in the Ghetto, you can find an array of local Jewish food, from fried and marinated zucchini salad to battered cod and Jewish-style artichokes. The homemade fresh pasta is fabulous. We enjoyed a burrata-filled ravioli served in a creamy truffle sauce, a memorable and unique dish. Another must try is the artichoke lasagna, which is baked in a ceramic dish filled with cream, artichoke and bubbly mozzarella cheese.

Artichoke pasta special at Casalino

WE VISITED ROME DURING THE FAMOUS ARTICHOKE FESTIVAL, WHERE RESTAURANTS OFFER ARTICHOKE TASTING MENUS AND SPECIALS. AT CASALINO, WE ENJOYED AN UNFORGETTABLE ARTICHOKE LASAGNA AND FRIED ARTICHOKE PASTA.

FONZIE

BELLA CARNE Well known for their grilled specialties, Bella Carne also offers offal on the menu. The lamb sweetbreads are pan-fried in a light gravy and served with braised artichokes for a true taste of Roman Jewish cuisine. What to order: We recommend the lamb sweetbreads with artichokes, as well as the warm dark chocolate cake. While we've all definitely had our fair share of this kind of cake, their version, oozing with high-quality Callebaut chocolate, is the one worth trying. 86

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WELL KNOWN FOR THEIR GRILLED SPECIALTIES, BELLA CARNE ALSO OFFERS OFFAL ON THE MENU.

A really unique burger chain with four locations across Rome, Fonzie has achieved recognition amongst many beyond the kosher audience. Fonzie won best burger in Rome a few times and is well known for their unique sauces. Beyond the burgers, the schnitzel sandwich really hits the spot and is beloved by locals. The highlight for us was the bread — the famous “bone bread” from a local bakery for the steak sandwich and focaccia for the roast beef sandwich. What to order: Beyond the food, the biggest surprise was the doughnut dessert. It was light, airy and fried to perfection, then slathered in a high-quality non-dairy chocolate-hazelnut spread – a delicious, decadent bite. www.fleishigs.com

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Honey-Soaked Ricotta Cheesecake Serves: 8

With Shavuos on our minds during our entire trip to Rome, we were inspired to create our own version of the ricotta cheesecake we enjoyed at Yotvata, a familyowned restaurant that has been in business for over 20 years. The results were outstanding and we especially love how light it is compared to a traditional cheesecake.

BONA PIZZA This is the place for classic Roman-style sheet pan pizza. The crust is crunchy yet still light and airy. Bona has an array of toppings and you can choose the desired size of your slice upon ordering. We suggest ordering a variety and sharing. There is a small space in the back to eat, but the pizza is perfect on the go as well. Bona also makes Jewish classics that are available most of the day, so you can try the Jewish-style fried artichokes and suppli. Although there are a few Bona Pizza locations throughout Rome, the only kosher location is in the Jewish Ghetto.

2 2 1 4 ¼

WE WERE INSPIRED TO CREATE OUR OWN VERSION OF THE RICOTTA CHEESECAKE WE ENJOYED AT YOTVATA

tablespoons butter, at room temperature (16-ounce) containers ricotta cheese cup honey, divided large eggs cup all-purpose flour Confectioners’ sugar, for serving, optional

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Rub butter all over a 9-inch round cake pan until fully greased. 2. Mix ricotta and ½ cup honey. Whisk in one egg at a time, then add flour and mix until incorporated. 3. Pour batter into the prepared pan. Bake until set, about 45 minutes. 4. Using a skewer or fork, immediately poke holes into the top, then drizzle remaining ½ cup honey, using a spoon to spread it if necessary. 5. Once cool enough to handle (about 20-30 minutes), invert the cake onto a plate. 6. Refrigerate until completely cooled. Before serving, dust with confectioners’ sugar (if desired).

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COME FOR THE CLASSICS YOTVATA This is the spot for Roman Jewish classics. They make the lightest crispiest batter, so everything battered is worth a try. From the cod to the stuffed zucchini flowers and fried mozzarella, they get it right. You can get a tasting of all of the most popular options by ordering the Fritto Yael. They also make amazing Roman Jewish-style cheesecakes. We had the sour cherry ricotta cheesecake and a classic three-ingredient cheesecake made with ricotta, eggs and honey.

Traditional pastries from Pasticceria Boccione

DARUMA SUSHI KOSHER Here you can find an array of freshly made sushi. We loved the edamame and lunch box, which comes with a tasting of various rolls and nigiri. 88

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PASTICCERIA BOCCIONE This bakery, known for their “burnt cookies'' and visits from the Pope, has a 300-year-old history. On Sundays there are typically lines of people waiting patiently to get some of the iconic baked goods. The ricotta cherry cheesecake is a must order, as well as the almond cookies, which taste like the filling of an almond croissant but in cookie form. You can also find pizza ebraica, a traditional Roman Jewish cookie (which is nothing like pizza), studded with dried fruit, reminiscent of a scone-meets-biscotti.

The unmarked bakery, Pasticceria Boccione

CREMERIA ROMANA We recommend trying new flavors. Be adventurous and combine two or three in one cone.

This authentic gelato shop is worth a stop while in Rome. Gelato is the lighter and more intensely flavored version of traditional ice cream. We absolutely loved the white chocolate pistachio and cherry cheesecake flavors They also make crêpes and waffle.

KOSHER CAKES

MOST RESTAURANTS IN THE JEWISH GHETTO ARE CONCENTRATED ON PORTIA DE OCTAVIA.

Located next door to Boccione, you can also get traditional Roman Jewish pastries here. It doesn’t have the same history, but the pastries taste similar to the original. At Kosher Cakes we enjoyed the classic Italian maritozzi — a brioche-style bun filled with very lightly sweetened cream and dusted with powdered sugar.

Maritozzi and pizza ebraica Fleishigs

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The First Musica

WHERE TO STAY

No matter where you decide to stay, one of the most important steps is to choose a hotel or home rental that is within walking distance to the main sites and attractions you’d like to visit. Rome puts New York City to shame with its traffic, narrow streets and difficulty finding parking, so don’t bother driving. While you can use taxis to get where you need to go, the cost quickly adds up (about €1 a minute). Practically, it’s best to stay in or close to the center of Rome so you can easily walk to your daily activities.

Exterior of The First Musica 90

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WHERE WE STAYED: HT6 This boutique hotel is primely located in the center of the Jewish Ghetto, within walking distance to major sites like the Pantheon, Campo di Fiori and the Colosseum. The hotel has excellent customer service, neat rooms and comfortable beds. Read below about our Shabbat experience at HT6.

THE FIRST MUSICA After Shabbat, we stayed at this new five-star hotel for three nights. The First Musica opened its doors just a few months ago and is located along the banks of the Tiber River in the elegant, posh Prati neighborhood. The hotel is a 10 minute walk from the Spanish Steps, with elegant shops along Via del Corso; it’s also a short walk to Vatican City. The design of the hotel merges ancient exteriors with modern interiors. The hotel features a relaxing spa and indoor swimming pool – currently under construction – and 24 stylish suites and guest rooms, most of which have incredible floor-to-ceiling windows with panoramic views of the city. The hotel boasts excellent customer service and modern, spacious rooms outfitted with smart technology, WiFi and speakers. There is also a generous array of soap, conditioner and lotion that far exceeds the standard hotel offerings. The minibar includes illy coffee pods and the rooftop bar has stunning views of Rome, especially at night.

Exterior of HT6

ROME PUTS NEW YORK CITY TO SHAME WITH ITS TRAFFIC, NARROW STREETS AND DIFFICULTY FINDING PARKING, SO DON’T BOTHER DRIVING. Lobby at The First Musica

Junior suite at The First Musica Fleishigs

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Shabbat in Rome F BY: S H I F R A K L E I N , AS TO L D TO

ANNA RAHMANAN

ew experiences are as titillating, humbling and reminiscent of the essence of Judaism as spending Shabbat in the Roman Jewish Ghetto surrounded by people of different cultural backgrounds. Although at first we were reluctant to spend Shabbat in Rome, we decided to re-route our plans at the urging of High Class Travel's Jay Schwartz — and we're so glad we did.

THE BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR OF THE SHUL WILL IMMEDIATELY HAVE YOU FORGET ABOUT THE PROCESS IT TAKES TO GET INSIDE. Fleishigs

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ON FRIDAY NIGHT, WE HAD A DELICIOUS SHABBAT DINNER THAT WAS PREBOOKED AT THE WORLDRENOWNED RESTAURANT BA’GHETTO. Upon arriving at HT6, a boutique hotel in the center of Rome, we were immediately impressed with the Shabbat-friendly accommodations that were laid out for us, including nonelectric room keys, a stock of cholov yisroel milk to use in our morning coffee and even a set of tea lights so that we could properly bring in the Shabbat. The hotel was clean, comfortable and just steps away from the Great Synagogue of Rome (Tempio Maggiore di Roma). One of the most majestic shuls in Europe, the Great Synagogue was built in the 1870s when the Roman Jewish Ghetto was officially torn down and all of Rome’s Jews were finally granted citizenship. The historical significance of the shul is apparent upon entry and guarded with plenty of security for safety reasons. To be granted entry to the synagogue, you are required to send a picture of your passport, get on a list and still pass by a slew of armed guards and gates once closer to the building. The beautiful interior of the shul will immediately have you forget about the process it takes to get inside or, perhaps, explain why it is that residents keep a tight leash on things all around — hundreds of tourists of

different backgrounds come together to celebrate Shabbat, singing along with a chazzan who doesn't fall within the Ashkenazi or Sephardic tradition, but, given that the Roman Jewish community dates back to before the destruction of the second Jewish Temple, belongs to a sect of Italiki Jews who have their own tunes. According to experts, the community follows orders and texts that are most similar to the ones that defined Judaism during the era of the Second Temple. On Friday night, we had a delicious Shabbat dinner that was pre-booked at the world-renowned restaurant Ba’Ghetto. The meal was unforgettable, and not just because of the multiethnic company that came along with it. The set menu, sure to delight all culinary appetites, included hummus, eggplant caponata, grilled salmon and fresh challah; a simple meat lasagna made with fresh pasta; roasted chicken served alongside some of the very best roasted potatoes to ever grace a menu; and a dessert consisting of tiramisu and chocolate mousse. Expect to be treated just as well during the day; we were served tahini with a tuna and eggplant stew;

artichoke lasagna with goulash and rice; and a number of assorted pastries for dessert. At the very least on a gastronomic level, you’re sure to have a lifealtering Shabbat. If you prefer not to dine at a restaurant, worry not — there are a good number of kosher restaurants in the Ghetto where you can buy some food before Shabbat. Unlike across most American cities, finding Shabbat-appropriate activities that will still allow you to properly explore town is an easy task in Rome. There are a ton of historical sites within walking distance to the main shul, most of them featuring plaques that will function as tour guides of sorts. Make sure to also walk by the splendidly unique Colosseum, which is only a 20-minute walk from the Ghetto as well — you will not regret it. Overall, spending time in Rome is always a good idea, but doing so over Shabbat might re-ignite the sort of religious passion and fervor that we sometimes lose in the familiarity of the day of rest at home. There’s just something about Italy, right?

SHABBAT RESOURCES: BOOK SYNAGOGUE ENTRY: sec-control@ romaebraica.it SHABBAT DINNER: www.baghetto.com LOCAL HOTELS: www.ht6roma.com www.nemancollection.com

The agents at High Class Travel are experts in luxury travel. They are your insider source for high-end hotels, business and first class travel and all the perks that come along with it. They also specialize in maximizing your unused credit card points. Visit @hctravelcollection on Instagram or highclasstravel.com for more and to book your next getaway. 94

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Heart.Works

It’s been thIs way for ages On Shavuot, we taste the sweetness of Torah and the joys of our age-old heritage. Add Amstelvelder artisanal Dutch cheeses to your chag meals and celebrations. A Gouda Yuntif!

SOMETHING SWEET

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS...

BY: S H I F R A K L E I N R EC I P E S BY: N AO M I E L B E RG

uring our tour of the Jewish Ghetto, the recurring theme of centuries ago was how the Jewish people made the most of what they had. “When life gives you lemons, make limoncello,” is how our wonderful guide Nafor put it. A few days later, we drove down to the Amalfi coast and were stunned by the sheer number of Sorrento lemon trees that grow all over Southern Italy. The Sorrento lemon has the perfect sweet-and-sour balance. The original lemon used in the iconic Italian liqueur limoncello, it’s still palatable when eaten raw. We knew we wanted to incorporate this unique flavor profile into the Shavuos issue, so Naomi Elberg, baker extraordinaire, prepared an incredible babka and tiramisu bursting with lemon flavor. These desserts, inspired by our trip and the lemons of the Amalfi coast, are worth every step and will add so much to your Shavuos table.

...MAKE LIMONCELLO 96

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SOMETHING SWEET

MAY 2023

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SOMETHING SWEET

Sweet Cheese Lemon Babka Yield: 2-3 (16-ounce) babkas

FOR THE BABKA DOUGH: 1 cup warm milk ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon yeast 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract 2 eggs 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened 4-5 cups high-gluten or bread flour, divided ½ teaspoon pink Himalayan sea salt FOR THE SWEET CHEESE FILLING: 1 (8-ounce) container whipped cream cheese ½ cup confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon pure lemon extract or lemon zest 2-4 tablespoons instant vanilla pudding powder Milk or heavy cream, as needed FOR THE DRY VANILLA FILLING: 1 cup confectioners’ sugar ½ cup sugar 1 (2.8-ounce) package instant vanilla pudding mix, such as Osem FOR THE CRUMB TOPPING: 1 cup sugar 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar 6-8 tablespoons cold cubed butter FOR ASSEMBLING: ¼-½ cup Lemon Curd (recipe follows)

FOR THE SWEET CHEESE FILLING: 5. Add all ingredients to a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or whisk by hand); beat until incorporated and creamy. Transfer to a container and cover with a tight-fitting lid; refrigerate until ready to use to thicken and firm up. If the filling gets too thick, thin it out with a bit of milk or heavy cream. FOR THE DRY VANILLA FILLING: 6. Mix ingredients together; set aside. FOR THE CRUMB TOPPING: 7. Mix ingredients together with your hands to reach a wet sand-like consistency. ASSEMBLY AND BAKING: 8. To shape the babka, roll a 1-pound portion of dough into a long, thin rectangle. 9. Using an offset spatula, spread a thin layer of sweet cheese filling (about 1 cup), followed by ⅓ cup lemon curd; spread it out gently, then sprinkle with about ½ cup dry vanilla filling. Roll into a tight log, pulling back and tucking in as you roll, ensuring that the log stays tight and intact. 10. Using a bench scraper or sharp knife, cut the log down the middle lengthwise, then twist the two halves together. Place in a greased 1-pound loaf pan. Top with a few tablespoons of crumb topping. Repeat with remaining dough. 11. Cover with a dish towel and let rise for 15-30 minutes. 12. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place loaf pans on a metal baking sheet to catch any spills. Bake for 30-45 minutes, until golden and solid on top.

FOR THE BABKA DOUGH: 1. Mix warm milk, sugar and yeast; set aside until it begins to bubble. 2. Add vanilla and eggs; mix until incorporated. Add butter, 4 cups flour and salt; mix until dough starts to pull away from the sides of the mixer, adding remaining 1 cup flour only as needed. You can also mix dough by hand using a wooden spoon and kneading the dough until it is super smooth; about 5 minutes. 3. Divide the dough into 14-16 ounce portions and place each portion into a quart-size, freezer-safe Ziploc bag. Each portion will make one babka. 4. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in size or in the fridge for up to 24 hours. (Alternatively, freeze the bags of dough at this point. When ready to bake, defrost in the fridge for up to 24 hours.) 98

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Lemon Curd Yield: 1 heaping cup

Now a staple in my baking repertoire, this lemon curd recipe from Malkie Hirsch (@kissthekoshercook) is surprisingly easy to make. Add 6 eggs, 1½ cups sugar, 1 cup fresh lemon juice and 2 tablespoons lemon zest to a saucepan over medium heat; whisk until thickened. Strain curd through a fine mesh sieve over a bowl. Add 8 tablespoons (1 stick) room temperature unsalted butter; whisk until fully melted and incorporated. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly over the curd to avoid a film from forming. If not using right away, cover the bowl with another piece of plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. www.fleishigs.com

SOMETHING SWEET

SWEET AND JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF SOUR.

MAY 2023

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SOMETHING SWEET

Boozy Lemon Tiramisu Serves: 12

Tiramisu is a great spring/summer dessert because it doesn’t require an oven. While traditionally made with espresso and cocoa, this version is tart from the addition of lemon in each step. I've provided alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions of the syrup used to dip the lady fingers. FOR THE CREAM FILLING: 1¼ cups heavy cream 2 cups mascarpone (see note below) ⅓ cup confectioners’ sugar 2 teaspoons pure lemon or vanilla extract Zest of 1 lemon FOR THE (ALCOHOLIC) SYRUP: ¾ cup sugar Zest and juice of 3 lemons ⅓ cup limoncello FOR THE (NON-ALCOHOLIC) SYRUP: ⅔ cup lemon juice ⅔ cup water ½ cup of sugar FOR ASSEMBLING: 2 (7-ounce) packages lady fingers, such as Paskesz, plus more for topping 1 cup Lemon Curd (recipe above), divided 1. For the cream filling, beat heavy cream until soft peaks form. In a separate bowl, beat mascarpone, confectioners’ sugar and extract until thickened. Fold in lemon zest. 2. Gently fold whipped cream into mascarpone mixture so as not to deflate. 3. For the (alcoholic) syrup, add sugar, lemon zest and lemon juice to a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 2 minutes, until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and add limoncello. For the (non-alcoholic) syrup, add lemon juice, water and sugar to a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 2 minutes, until sugar is dissolved. Let cool slightly. 4. Dip half the lady fingers into syrup of choice, then arrange side by side in a 9x9-inch glass baking dish. 5. Top lady fingers with half the cream filling, spreading evenly with an offset spatula. Spread ½ cup lemon curd over the cream filling, then top with another layer of dipped lady fingers. 6. Spread remaining ½ cup curd on top of the lady fingers. Pipe or spread remaining mascarpone mixture on top of the curd.

NOTES: • Make your own mascarpone: Mix 12 ounces room temperature cream cheese, ¼ cup heavy cream and ¼ cup sour cream until smooth and creamy. • If you can’t find lady fingers, use any favorite vanilla cookie, such as vanilla sandwich cookies, just scrape off and discard the cream filling. • When frozen, the tiramisu is reminiscent of ice cream.

7. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight. Freeze for 45-60 minutes before slicing for cleaner cuts. Sprinkle crushed lady fingers on top before serving. 100

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SOMETHING SWEET

A TART WITH POP. MAY 2023

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L'CHAIM

I Grandi Vini d'Italia

The Great Wines of Italy

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L'CHAIM

BY: GABRIEL GELLER

long with France, Italy is arguably the classiest wine region in the world. Like France, it has a history of winemaking that goes back centuries, with many indigenous, regional grape varieties and styles. There's something truly unique about Italian wines. Usually, red wines go with heavier foods and some can go with fatty fish like salmon or aged hard cheese, but for the most part, red wines naturally pair with meat dishes. However, Italian red wines are a bit different. One of their most essential features is their high, natural acidity. That makes them far more versatile with food. They can be paired with fish, pasta, pizza, soft cheese, hard cheese… you name it! So if you are hosting some “I only drink red wine” guests for Shavuos, look no further than these great Italian wines to grace your table.

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CANTINA DEL REDI PLEOS TOSCANA SANGIOVESE , 2019 This is a great QPR (quality-price ratio) wine. While made from Sangiovese and in Tuscany, it is not a Chianti and features a different style too. Medium-bodied, with notes of red fruits, spices and savory, earthy undertones, it has medium-plus acidity and balanced tannins. This wine exemplifies what Italian wines are all about: wines to enjoy casually with good food and good company. It would be amazing with pizza topped with fresh mozzarella, roasted artichokes and sundried tomatoes. V E R A WA N G PA R T Y ! P R O S E C C O D.O.C Yes, you read that right. The A-list designer Vera Wang offers two kosher Proseccos under her name, a white and a rosé. This fun sparkling wine is made using the Charmat method, with a secondary fermentation that takes place in pressurized tanks. Very lemony on the nose, it is light- to medium-bodied and slightly off-dry, with notes of lime, pear and kiwi. It has good acidity, lovely bubbles and a dollop of sweetness on the finish. This wine can go with many different foods, from salads and pasta to fish and chicken. Try it with a slice of cheesecake. VILL A MANGIACANE MAGNIFICUS TOSCANA, 2017 This is the first kosher wine produced by this historic winery, housed in a landmark property built over 500 years ago and designed by the famous Michelangelo. This wine is a blend of 50-50 Sangiovese and Merlot. It is medium- to full-bodied, with on-the-nose and palate notes of ripe cherries and raspberries, smoked meat and dried mushrooms with hints of rosemary and thyme. Try it with a slice of aged Pecorino Romano. T E R R A D I S E TA A S S A I C H I A N T I C L A S S I C O GRAN SELEZIONE, 2016 Gran Selezione is the highest mark given to the best wines of Tuscany's Chianti Classico region. There are very few of these, and we are lucky that a world-class kosher winery like Terra di Seta exists in Italy. This wine is rich, concentrated, complex and layered, with notes of ripe red cherries, blackberries, fresh Mediterranean herbs, earth, dried morels and toasted oak. It has high acidity and robust tannins draping the mouth, with notes of porcini mushrooms and nutmeg on a long, plush, generous finish. Given some extensive aeration, it can pair well with aged cheese, pizza and lox. B A R T E N U R A S PA R K L I N G M O S C AT O R O S É The sparkling rosé is always a fun wine to enjoy with light desserts or on its own, but its fizz and the refreshing, sweet fruit notes always hit the spot when paired with spicy tuna sushi, pizza and cheesecake. T E R R A D I S E TA G U I D U C C I O T O S C A N A , 2 0 2 0 I’ve waited for this wine for a long time and it certainly did not disappoint. A blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, it has notes of menthol, eucalyptus, rosemary, ripe black cherry, crème de cassis and cigar box. Full-bodied, dry and concentrated, it has a velvety mouthfeel and high acidity, with hints of earth, seared mushrooms and dark chocolate on an incredibly long finish. An outstanding, complex wine that can also age for many years, it will magnify the finest hard cheeses this Shavuos.

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TOTALLY KOSHER GIFTS WITH A MONTHLY DONATION TO MASBIA

I’m here to make your charitable giving just a little more delicious. A monthly donation of $18 will get you the Totally Kosher cookbook. A monthly donation of $54 will get you an autographed copy of Totally Kosher. A monthly donation of $180 will get you my first cookbook (autographed) as well, Millennial Kosher along with Totally Kosher. A monthly donation of $1,000 will get you a cooking demo from me. (All gifts are contingent upon a minimum 1 year commitment.) If you don’t want to do it monthly and want it as a gift with a one time donation instead, you can find those options in the Masbia online store.

Masbia. Tax ID #20-1923521 Please charge my card monthly for this amount:

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Signature Name ______________________________________________________________________ Address ____________________________________________________________________ City ____________________________ State ____________________ Zip _______________ Phone _________________________ Email _______________________________________

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MAILING ADDRESS MASBIA POB 191181 Brooklyn NY 11219 TOLL FREE 866-9-MASBIA TEL 718-972-4446 x203 FAX 718-972-0333 EMAIL info@masbia.org WEB www.Masbia.org/TK

L'CHAIM

Sparkling Negroni-ish Serves: 1

Negroni, Italy's most traditional cocktail, combines equal parts gin, campari and sweet vermouth. While campari can only be found kosher in Israel, Luxardo Rosso is a great alternative and this version is lightened up with sparkling wine. Orange peel is the traditional garnish, but rosemary, an herb that sprouts everywhere in Italy, is a great savory addition. 1½ 1½ 1½

ounces Luxardo Rosso ounces sweet vermouth ounces sparkling wine, like Prosecco Orange peel and/or fresh rosemary sprig, for garnish

1. Add Luxardo and vermouth to an ice-filled mixing glass; stir until well-chilled. 2. Strain into an ice-filled rocks glass (alternatively, pour into a Champagne flute or coupe glass without ice). 3. Top with sparkling wine. Garnish with an orange peel or rosemary sprig (or both!).

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Pizza Biza is under the strict Rabbinical supervision of Kosher Miami, The Vaad HaKashrus of Miami-Dade, Inc. All Products are Cholov Yisroel All Products are Pas Yisroel This certificate is valid until December 31, 2021

Email:KosherVaad@gmail.com 917 207 2131

**This certificate is property of Kosher Miami**

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The Noble

Sauvignon Blanc BY: YA E L E . G E L L E R

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auvignon Blanc is a white grape variety that is widely grown around the world. It is known for its crisp acidity, herbal and grassy notes and citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Sauvignon Blanc wines are known for their bright, refreshing acidity and herbaceous, fruit-driven flavors. They are often consumed young and are best served chilled. Sauvignon Blanc wines can exhibit a range of flavors and aromas, depending on where they are grown and how they are produced. Some common

flavors found in Sauvignon Blanc wines include grapefruit, lemon, lime, green apple, gooseberry, passion fruit and herbal notes, such as grass or bell pepper. As white wines continue to gain popularity in the kosher market, it is important to remember that many grapes are hybrids and have been mixed with others to produce new varieties. I call Sauvignon Blanc the mother grape of Cabernet Sauvignon since CabSauv is a cross between

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Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Sauvignon Blanc has its origins in the Bordeaux region of France. The grape variety is believed to have been cultivated in the area since the 18th century, and it was first used to produce a dry white wine that was crisp and refreshing. Over time, Sauvignon Blanc became one of the most important grape varieties used in making white Bordeaux wines and is often blended with Semillon, another white grape variety. In the 20th century, Sauvignon Blanc began to gain popularity as a standalone varietal wine. Winemakers in the Loire Valley region of France, located west of Bordeaux, began to produce Sauvignon Blanc wines showcasing the grape’s distinct flavors and aromas. These wines were often made using traditional winemaking methods,

such as fermenting the grapes in oak barrels or aging the wine on its lees (the dead yeast cells and grape solids left over after fermentation), which gave them a richer and more complex flavor profile. Today, Sauvignon Blanc is grown in many wine-producing regions around the world, including California, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa and Israel. Each region has its own unique terroir (combination of climate and soil), which influences the flavor and aroma of the wine. For example, Sauvignon Blanc wines from the Marlborough and Nelson regions of New Zealand are known for their bright, tropical fruit flavors and aromas. At the same time, those from the Loire Valley in France are often more herbaceous and mineral-driven. Sauvignon Blanc wines have a rich and

Sauvignon Blanc has its origins in the Bordeaux region of France.

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Today, Sauvignon Blanc is grown in many wine-producing regions around the world. varied history that spans centuries and continents. From their origins in Bordeaux to their current status as one of the world’s most popular white wine varieties, Sauvignon Blanc wines continue to captivate wine lovers with their crisp acidity, herbal and grassy notes and vibrant fruit flavors. Sauvignon Blanc is often blended with other varietals to highlight the uniqueness of many grapes, creating a lovely showcase of what each varietal offers. One of the newer favorite blends made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is the Essa Altira, which is made in South Africa. This blend has been on the shelves for about a year, but has difficulty staying in stock because it’s so popular and the price is excellent. This wine has more body to it than other Sauvignon Blanc blends, possibly due to the unique terroir of the South African region in which the grapes are grown. It can age nicely for several years and stand up to more fatty dishes like tuna tartare or goose breast. One of the best Sauvignon Blanc-driven wines we have enjoyed is the Château Lacaussade. This wine is made from grapes grown in the

Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, France, known for its crisp and refreshing white wines. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve its fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity. It is then aged for a few months in oak barrels to give it a subtle complexity and depth. Tabor Sauvignon Blanc is a white wine produced by Tabor Winery, one of Israel’s leading wine producers. It is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown in select vineyards in the Galilee and Golan Heights regions. The grapes are harvested by hand and undergo a gentle pressing to extract the juice. The juice is then fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures to preserve the wine’s fresh fruit flavors and aromas. Moving around the world to New Zealand, we have the iconic Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc made from grapes grown in Nelson, which is one of the country’s premier Sauvignon Blanc growing regions. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve its vibrant flavors and aromas of passionfruit, grapefruit and herbs. It is then aged for a few months in oak barrels to give it a subtle complexity and depth.

Herzog recently produced a Sauvignon Blanc that was aged in acacia wood barrels. This unique wine has bright stone and citrus fruit flavors, refreshing acidity, complex secondary notes of vanilla and a fascinating salinity. Unfortunately, it was only available to wine club members or at the winery. One can still find the legendary Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Hagefen, a dessert wine made from grapes left on the vine longer than usual to concentrate their sugars and flavors. The wine is fermented in oak barrels and has notes of honey, apricot and vanilla — fabulous with cheesecake! The Herzog Lineage Sauvignon Blanc is a complex, mediumbodied wine made from Musque clone grapes from California’s Lake County. The combination of the area’s volcanic soil and this Bordeaux clone results in a wine featuring notes of citrus, peach and fresh herbs. It is well-suited for pairing with foods like grilled poultry and fish. In addition to producing high-quality Sauvignon Blanc wines, Herzog is also dedicated to sustainable and environmentally friendly practices. The company has implemented many initiatives to reduce

its carbon footprint, including using recycled materials in its packaging and reducing the amount of water used in production. The company also supports sustainable farming practices and works closely with its vineyard partners to ensure that their grapes are grown in an environmentally responsible manner. As you can see, there is a range of high-quality kosher Sauvignon Blanc wines available today on the shelves that are known for their distinctive flavors and elegant complexity. Enjoy one (or two!) on your Shavuos table this year. L’chaim!

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R E C I P E

I N D E X

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 28 Garlic Confit M 33 Artichoke Relish Q

VEGETARIAN & FISH 28 Steamed Whole Artichokes with Garlic Confit FF M

DAIRY 24 Semolina Gnocchi Gratin 30 Spinach Artichoke Quiche FF

33 Crispy Artichoke Bites

29 Braised Artichoke Hearts

34 Warm Artichoke Carpaccio

33 Artichoke Dip Q

30 Roman-Jewish Fried Artichokes FF M

40 Focaccia Caprese Sandwich

40 Basic No-Knead Dough FF

33 Artichoke Butter Lettuce Salad

49 Cacio e Pepe FF Q

40 Balsamic Roasted Tomatoes M

65 Roasted Zucchini with Artichoke

49 Cacio e Pepe Eggplant

40 Pesto M Q 106 Sparkling Negroni-ish Q

Tapenade 67 Potato-Crusted Cod M

64 Whipped Feta Bruschetta, Two Ways 68 Savory "Shlishkes" FF

SWEET TREATS

Key: FF

Family-Friendly

Minimal Ingredients

Quick

70 Lemon Ricotta Cake FF 87 Honey-Soaked Ricotta Cheesecake 98 Sweet Cheese Lemon Babka FF 98 Lemon Curd M 100 Boozy Lemon Tiramisu

Stay tuned for the upcoming June issue, where we will explore more travel-inspired content from our trip, specifically from Florence and the Amalfi Coast.

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LAST BITE

Shavuos Recipe Round Up

#yesitsontheapp BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ Beyond the recipes that fill these pages, here is a sample Shavuos menu using recipes from prior issues, all of which can be found on the Fleishigs app.

CHEESY SPRING ONION TARRAGON CHALLAH By: Kayla Kaye ISSUE #27 Look no further for the most delicious stuffed challah for your dairy meals.

EVERYTHING BAGEL SALMON CRUDO By: Isaac Bernstein ISSUE #23 With a nod to the everything bagel, this is the perfect addition to a light Shavuos lunch.

LENNY’S CAULIFLOWER By: Shifra Klein ISSUE #33 Roasted cauliflower is always a huge hit, but this version transforms it entirely with a unique combination of sauces and toppings. 114

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VEGAN LACHMAGINE By: Mozelle Goldstein ISSUE #36 These mini lachmagine check all the boxes for a sweet, savory and tart bite.

HONEY ROASTED SALMON WITH SAVORY PISTACHIO CRUMBLE

CARAMELIZED ONION AND GOAT CHEESE QUICHE

By: Shifra Klein

By: Bracha Arnold

ISSUE #29

ISSUE #27

This nutty, buttery crumble elevates a simple side of salmon.

A quiche is a great dish to serve a crowd and this one has that unforgettable tang from goat cheese and sweetness from caramelized onions.

BABY SPINACH SALAD WITH BALSAMIC STRAWBERRIES

NEW YORK CHEESECAKE

By: Naomi Ross ISSUE #26 This bright salad is the perfect homage to spring.

By: Layla Zirkind ISSUE: #28 It may be basic, but a creamy, no-frills cheesecake is the only dessert you’ll need for Shavuos. www.fleishigs.com