Fleishigs Magazine Issue 019 - August 2020 by Fleishigs Magazine

EDITOR'S LETTER

SANDWICH ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

The best issue since sliced bread

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

Jewish Food Media Conference, run by the talented Melinda Strauss, Shlomo and I spoke about our experience working together on Fleishigs Magazine. After all the inspiring and informative talks, we dined on a catered lunch by Teaneck’s Humble Toast, mingled and networked. At the event, it was especially great to catch up with Leah Schapira, a cookbook author, food writer and great industry friend. We go way back to our days at Bitayavon, when Leah was working on her site www.cookkosher.com.

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss

AT LAST YEAR’S

Today, Leah runs the popular website www.betweencarpools.com with a group of talented friends — an approachable, relatable, beautifully presented site geared towards women that doles out shopping tips, easy recipes and parenting hacks. As we were talking, Leah mentioned that if I ever do a sandwich issue she wants to guest edit. After Pesach, as I was planning the May through August issues, I remembered Leah’s interest and the sandwich issue was born. We were thrilled to work with the Between Carpools team, who joined us in enhancing this vibrant issue. First and foremost, there is no sandwich without bread, which has proved to be the ultimate quarantine activity. Acclaimed author Rochie Pinson shares three very unique bread options to elevate your sandwiches and our editor Elisheva Taitz compiled a collection of bread cookbooks to expand your bread repertoire. Of course, to go with the bread, we bring you a collection of sandwiches that cover the gamut and won’t disappoint. This summer, with limited travel options,

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we reached out to Yanky Schwartz, the coolest Orthodox Jewish traveler on Instagram, who is currently working towards his goal of becoming the first Hasidic Jew to travel to every country. He provided a primer on how to maximize your visit to a few of the stunning national parks of the United States. Use this guide as an inspiration to find something that suits the needs of your family. (If you do go, make sure to tell us all about it along with which sandwiches you took along for the road!) To balance out all the sandwiches, the very talented Reena Goldberger, a Miamibased event planner and recipe developer, joins this issue with a very elegant and gourmet (yet practical) Shalosh Seudos feast, which is perfect for summer. We tested its practicality by traveling with the entire menu to shoot in Brooklyn’s Prospect Park to much success. One of the perks of summer weekends are long Shabbos days — the ultimate way to unplug, unwind and truly live in the moment. I have found so much peace of mind during Shabbos and Yom Tov days, especially during the COVID-19 crisis. The inspiration from Shabbos and the relaxing vibes that come along with it really help me focus my week, live in the moment and make the most of each day. I hope that reading the pages of this issue will accomplish just that for you by giving you recipes to look forward to enjoying with family and friends, while creating happy memories. Have a wonderful rest of summer.

EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

PROOFREADER Sara Linder ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 888 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, diningware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

Bitayavon, Shifra

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

EDITOR’S LETTER

GADGETS Essentials and extras to enhance your summer cooking

UNIQUE STAPLES Our favorite unique staples for making this issue

26 SUMMER PRODUCE Elevate your sandwiches by utilizing summer’s best

Meat expert Naftali Hanau shares the wonders of pot roast

SEASONAL

How to build the perfect sandwich by the women behind Between Carpools

CULINARY SCHOOL Bread baking with Rochie Pinson

38 COOKBOOK REVIEW A look at our favorite bread cookbooks

SANDWICHES 56 Jewish deli-inspired sandwiches 66 Epic burgers 78 Restaurant-inspired sandwiches

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Updates on new and improved restaurants

90 SHABBOS FEAST A summer Seudat Shlishit by Reena Goldberger

BACK POCKET

102 L'CHAIM Summer wines

Arayes three ways

104 INTERVIEW The women behind the family-owned housewares company, The Better House

106 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Winemaker spotlight: Alicia Wilbur

Exploring the national parks of the United States

114 LAST BITE Sourdough and olive oil: A love story

TRAVEL

110 RECIPE INDEX

GUEST EDITOR: BETWEEN CARPOOLS @BETWEENCARPOOLS BETWEEN CARPOOLS is a collaboration between five talented friends who like to get a lot of stuff done “between carpools.” Since 2016, they have been sharing home and organizing tips, parenting insights, activities, how-tos and DIYs and of course, entertaining ideas, recipes and inspiring reads both on the site www.betweencarpools.com and app.

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FEATURE PAGE

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GADGETS

CUTCO BREAD KNIFE Cutco’s bread knife is the best we’ve used and comes in two sizes (7-¾” and 9-¾”). Plus, you can’t go wrong with their “forever guarantee” and free sharpening. $114-$118 www.cutco.com

Lodge Handheld Cast Iron Grill Press A handheld grill press is a great alternative to an electric panini press if you're short on space. It’s also the perfect tool for making a smashburger (page 68). Like any cast iron product, it will last long with proper care. $19.90 www.homedepot.com

ALL-CLAD CLASSIC ROUND WAFFLE MAKER

OXO GOOD GRIPS JULIENNE PEELER A julienne peeler is a great tool to have, especially for making pickled vegetables (page 46). Though it only has one function, it can replace some bigger gadgets like a spiralizing machine.

Create our Savory Belgian Waffles (page 34) using a waffle maker like this one. The indicator lights make it foolproof to use and its nonstick surface makes for extremely easy clean up.

$9.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com

$129.95 www.williams-sonoma.com

Ball Mason Jars Mason jars are a no-brainer for storing condiments and pickled vegetables. There are many size varieties and you can never have enough. Available at many major retailers such as Ace Hardware, Target, Bed Bath & Beyond and Amazon. Prices vary.

BREVILLE DUO PANINI PRESS

Breville’s nonstick panini press is extremely durable. With a flat griddle plate on one side and a grill plate on the other, this machine provides even heating throughout and authentic panini grill marks. $69.95 www.crateandbarrel.com Cuisinart Classic Round Waffle Maker This waffle maker is more budgetfriendly, complete with indicator lights and a nonstick surface as well, though it won’t create as deep a waffle as a Belgian waffle maker would.

CALPHALON CLASSIC HARD-ANODIZED NONSTICK PANINI PAN WITH PRESS

$23.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com

This is a great set, which can be used as a grill pan alone or as a panini press. It’s extremely durable and easy to clean. $49.99 www.walmart.com

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UNIQUE STAPLES

MEAL MART NAVEL PASTRAMI We love navel pastrami for a foolproof dinner. It can be used in endless ways and is always a crowd pleaser. Since it benefits from an overnight cook, it’s perfect for Shabbos lunch in lieu of (or in addition to — we don’t judge!) cholent. MUSTARD SEEDS Mustard seeds, used in the Cabbage Relish on page 23, are so underrated and add an amazing, unparalleled flavor. Available from various brands. ACME OR BLUE HILL BAY WHOLE SMOKED WHITEFISH OR TROUT FILETS If you’re a whitefish salad lover, there’s nothing quite like preparing it mostly from scratch (page 64). Readily available in mainstream supermarkets, smoked whole whitefish is the way to go. Certified kosher by Chof-K. FOLLOW YOUR HEART AMERICAN-STYLE SLICES This is one of our favorite non-dairy cheeses to use on burgers (like our Smashburger on page 68). It melts like real cheese and has a great flavor. Certified kosher by Balkan Kosher. ORTEGA FIRE ROASTED DICED GREEN CHILIS These canned green chilis truly pack a punch and are a great pantry staple to quickly add flavor to a dish, like the Fleishigs Cholent Burger (page 68). The cans come in two sizes and varieties, mild and hot. Certified kosher by OU. VIDALIA ONIONS When a recipe calls for raw onion, this variety is the perfect choice. Vidalias have a sweet and mild bite and are typically in season between April and August. They make excellent naturally sweet caramelized onions, without the need to add sugar. 16

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BUTCHERS CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

WHY WE LOV E THIS CUT INEXPENSIVE Pot roast is an inexpensive cut of meat that, especially when from the chuck, yields really great flavor. V E R S AT I L E It's perfect for stews and makes a great alternative to flanken in cholent, especially if you can find a pot roast with a bone, which oftentimes is available. LOW MAINTENANCE When cooked low-and-slow, it is difficult to mess up.

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not a cut per se, although many butchers (including us here at Grow & Behold) will sell you something called “pot roast” or “chuck pot roast.” Instead, it’s a general term for a tough roast that is cooked at a low temperature with plenty of liquid, until it becomes tender and delicious.

POT ROAST IS

BRISKET, WHEN BRAISED, IS A POT ROAST, AS ARE ALL OF THESE CUTS: C H U C K P OT ROAST

Our beefiest roast for classic pot roast. C H U C K E Y E ROAST

Can be cooked for a few hours if you want to serve it sliced or cooked longer to shred and serve like pot roast. DECKEL

Benefits from an 8-10 hour braise in liquid. KO L I C H E L

Benefits from an overnight braise in liquid. M I N U T E ROAST

Can be cooked for a long time at a low temperature for nice slices, but won’t shred.

PULLED BEEF Serves: 6

Easiest Pot Roast Ever (recipe follows) 2 cups favorite barbecue sauce 6 hamburger buns Cabbage Relish (recipe follows) 1. Instead of slicing pot roast, shred meat. 2. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add shredded meat and barbecue sauce. Cook for 10-15 minutes, until meat is completely heated through. 3. Serve on toasted buns with Cabbage Relish.

TOP OF THE RIB

Somewhere between first and second cut brisket in terms of marbling. BRISKET STRIP V E A L N EC K ROAST VEAL BREAST VEAL POCKET

THE TECHNIQUE OF pot braising is best saved for tougher cuts; after several hours of slow simmering, the connective tissues break down and yield fork-tender, delicious meat. That meat can then be sliced or shredded, depending on how you like it and how long you cook it. It’s really difficult to overcook a braising roast, so this is a good technique if you are new to roasts or planning a hectic cooking schedule where you may forget to check on the meat for a while — an extra 20 minutes won’t make a difference.

BASIC BRAISING METHOD

Sear roast on all sides in a hot pan or Dutch oven (if the roast is very large, you can achieve this by roasting in a 425°F oven for about 5-8 minutes). The Dutch oven is an excellent option because you can sear and braise in the same pot. If searing in a hot pan, transfer to a crock pot to braise. Add aromatics (such as 20

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onions and herbs) and braising liquid (such as beer, wine, water or broth). The liquid should cover the bottom 2-3 inches of the roast (the entire roast should be covered if you’re using deckel or kolichel). Cover tightly and cook at a low temperature (250°F) for 8-10 hours or until meat is very tender.

Naftali Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertlybutchered premium quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb and poultry, with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

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French Dip Sandwich Serves: 6

A French Dip Sandwich is a nofrills sandwich that consists of a soft roll loaded with thinly sliced beef, served with a side of beef jus (the liquid in which the meat was cooked) for dipping. It’s unadulterated (no fancy toppings or condiments) and extremely simple to make. Plus, it’s the perfect use of leftover roast. 1 ¼ 1 1

(3-pound) pot roast cup flour teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup canola oil, divided 1 onion, diced 2 carrots, diced 3 stalks celery, diced 4 cloves garlic, crushed 3 sprigs fresh thyme 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 cups beef broth 6 fresh rolls or a large French baguette, cut into 6 portions

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Coat pot roast with flour, salt and pepper. 2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and sear roast for 6 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer roast to a 9x13-inch baking pan. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, onions, carrots and celery to sauté pan and sauté for 10 minutes. Add garlic and thyme and sauté for another 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and stir to combine. 3. Turn off fire and stir in beef broth, then pour sauce over pot roast. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours. 4. Refrigerate overnight or allow to cool completely. Skim off fat and slice roast thinly. 5. Combine with beef jus, setting aside 1½ cups beef jus for dipping. Reheat until just warmed through. 6. Scoop out inside of the bread, leaving the end intact. Stuff with sliced beef and serve with remaining warm beef jus for dipping.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Easiest Pot Roast Ever Serves: 6

1 2 2 ½

(3-4 pound) pot roast large Spanish onions, thinly sliced teaspoons kosher salt cup chopped chives

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place pot roast in a 9x13-inch baking pan with onions and salt. 2. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours. 3. Refrigerate overnight or allow to cool completely. Slice thinly and gently return to the pan. Reheat and serve with onions; garnish with chopped chives.

Cabbage Relish Yield: 3 cups

1 ½ ½ ½ 1 1 1 ½ ½

5 1 1

cup white vinegar cup yellow mustard cup sugar cup light brown sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon turmeric tablespoon mustard seeds teaspoon black pepper teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes cups shredded cabbage large carrot, shredded onion, diced

1. Add vinegar, mustard, sugars, salt, turmeric, mustard seeds, black pepper and red pepper flakes to a large pot. Bring to a boil and stir until sugar dissolves. 2. Once boiling, add shredded cabbage, carrots and onions. Return to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 2025 minutes, stirring frequently.

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SUMMER PRODUCE

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RIPE & TOMATOES ARE IN prime season during the month of August. Whether you planted them in your garden or visit a local farmers market, the tomatoes you will find now are likely to be the juiciest and sweetest ones of the year. In celebration of the sandwich issue, we couldn’t think of a more versatile fruit (yes, it’s a fruit!) that can do so much for a sandwich. Tomatoes are obviously a great addition to any schnitzel or deli sandwich, but served straight up on toasted bread with mayonnaise and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt, tomatoes — especially ones that are in-season — can be a real showstopper on their own.

Beyond that, tomatoes can be made into delicious condiments or dips and can elevate sandwiches to new heights. The following are some of my favorite condiments to make with fresh tomatoes, especially when you are overflowing with a bounty of them.

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Tomato Marmalade Yield: 2½ cups

Tomato marmalade is a versatile spread that can be used on any sandwich. The tomatoes break down and become jam-like, making it the perfect sweet and savory accompaniment. 1½ 1 2 1 1 1 ¼ ⅛ 1

pounds ripe Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped cup sugar tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cloves jalapeño, seeded and finely minced (or cayenne or red pepper flakes, to taste), optional

1. Combine all ingredients in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often. 2. Reduce heat to simmer and stir occasionally, uncovered, until mixture has consistency of thick jam, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed, then cool and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Resek Agvaniot Yield: 1 cup

Resek agvaniot is a popular raw Israeli condiment that literally means “grated tomatoes.” It’s typically served with jachnun and malawach (Israeli delicacies) alongside hard boiled eggs. We love it as a dip for bread with olive oil or on egg sandwiches. 1 ½ ⅛ 1 28

pound ripe tomatoes teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cumin jalapeño, finely diced, optional

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1. Grate the tomatoes using a box grater and add salt, cumin and jalapeño, if using. 2. Adjust seasonings to taste, if needed. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Tomato Confit Yield: 6 cups

Confit is a technique of slow cooking in oil, where the tomatoes become incredibly soft yet still maintain their texture.

1½ 1 6 6 1 3

pounds grape tomatoes cup whole basil leaves cloves garlic whole black peppercorns teaspoon kosher salt cups extra-virgin oil

1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Place tomatoes, basil, garlic, peppercorns and salt in a glass baking dish and cover with olive oil. 2. Cook uncovered for 6 hours, until tomatoes are soft and very fragrant. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks or longer if completely submerged in oil.

Pico de Gallo Yield: 1½ cups

Pico de gallo is an amazing all-purpose condiment for tacos, eggs, grilled chicken and burgers. 1 1 1 ½ ½

pound tomatoes, finely diced small red onion, diced jalapeño, seeded and diced Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lime cup chopped fresh cilantro teaspoon kosher salt

Combine all ingredients. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days. www.fleishigs.com

SUMMER PRODUCE

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ROASTED CAULIFLOWER, A SANDWICH IN FULL BLOOM.

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SUMMER PRODUCE

Roasted Cauliflower Sandwich Serves: 3

Vegetable-based sandwiches can sometimes be just as satisfying as a meat sandwich. Cauliflower has gained fame in the past few years for its versatility and this sandwich showcases how wonderful it is. Note: You can use frozen cauliflower, just roast it straight from the freezer and then cut it into smaller pieces once roasted. This sandwich can be made in advance, wrapped and eaten within a few hours.

¼ 1½ ½ 6

head cauliflower or 1 (24-ounce) package frozen cauliflower florets cup olive oil teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chimichurri (recipe follows) slices rustic-style bread or rye bread, toasted Pickled Onions (page 52) Radish sprouts, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut cauliflower into small florets and coat with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool. 2. Spread chimichurri on bread and top with roasted cauliflower, pickled onions and radish sprouts. Close sandwich. Tip: Roast any of your favorite vegetables in place of or in addition to the cauliflower. Roasted carrots and mushrooms are another great combination that would work wonderfully in place of the cauliflower.

Chimichurri Yield: 1¼ cups

Combine 1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley, 3 minced garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, ¾ teaspoons dried oregano, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Refrigerate in an airtight container.

CULINARY SCHOOL

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CULINARY SCHOOL

a sandwich is one of those things that is more than the sum of its parts. a good slice of deli meat is great, but pair it with just the right rye, a tangy mustard and the perfect sour pickle and suddenly it’s so much more than all those COMPONENTS. if we’re going to do this sandwich thing right, the bread we use has to have equal importance in the equation. as the challah lady in residence here, i’ve made a slight departure from my usual challah repertoire and am delighted to present you with three original and delicious breads that will elevate your sandwich game exponentially.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

YOU KNOW HOW they say that the Chinese food we American folk love so much bears almost no resemblance to authentic Chinese food? Well, I discovered that the same is true for those treats we call Belgian waffles. It turns out they aren’t Belgian waffles at all! At best, they are an American interpretation of what we think a waffle should be. I did a little research and now no more fake Belgian waffles here. As it turns out, real Belgian waffles aren’t made from a batter, they are actually made from a bread dough — a silky dough that comes together in minutes and goes straight into a waffle iron. The smell of that waffle cooking is worth all of the effort. Traditionally, pearled sugar is used inside Belgian waffles, but I decided to offer you a less traditional approach in the form of a savory waffle, which is perfect for your sandwiching pleasure.

Notes: The recipe below is meant to be a savory one, but if you’re looking for a traditional sweet waffle, simply replace the crispy French fried onions with ⅔ cup Belgian pearl sugar, which can be found at specialty supermarkets or on Amazon. It is not interchangeable with regular white sugar. Belgian waffle irons have much deeper grooves, which is part of their distinct look. If you only have a regular waffle iron, that will work too! These waffles are intended to be smaller so they will only fill up the center of the waffle iron, but don’t worry — they will still be beautiful in the end. Be careful when removing the waffles from the iron, especially if you went with the sweet version — the caramelized pearl sugar will be very hot on the surface and you can burn yourself easily. These waffles taste great the next day too, just warm them up in the oven or even in a toaster for great results!

Savory Belgian Waffles

but be very sparing with it.

Yield: 18 waffles

5. Turn dough out onto a floured surface and roll it out to a large (14-inch) square.

teaspoons active dry yeast cup warm water cup sugar cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more if needed 2 eggs ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon non-dairy butter substitute, cubed when cold, then brought to room temperature, divided ⅔ cup crispy French fried onions, optional

6. Sprinkle the entire surface of the square with crispy onions, if using. Starting at any end, roll up the dough, jelly-roll style, until you have a fat log.

1. Add yeast to warm water and set aside.

8. Heat the waffle iron and coat with nonstick cooking spray. Place a ball of dough in the center of the griddle. Note: Use the first ball of dough as a test to determine how long you need to keep the waffles in for. Each waffle iron has different settings and heats differently. You want the edges to be golden brown and crisp, but you don’t want the inside to dry out. It takes less time than you might think, so don’t walk away!

2 ¾ ⅓ 3

2. Add sugar, 2 cups flour, eggs and 1 tablespoon butter and stir with a wooden spoon to combine. At this point the dough will be very sticky. 3. Add the remaining cup of flour, then add the remaining cubed butter. Leave it on the surface of the dough and allow it to rest for 30 minutes. 4. Using your hands, knead dough until smooth and silky and all the butter is incorporated. Add in extra flour if needed, 34

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7. Slice the log into 10-12 portions, about 3½-ounces each. Gently roll the portions into balls and set aside to rest for about 15-20 minutes. At this point, you can either make the waffles right away or refrigerate the balls overnight and make the waffles when you’re ready.

9. Serve as a sandwich with your favorite fixings.

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HALACHIC NOTE These recipes are all too small to require the separation of dough (hafrashat challah) or the accompanying blessing.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Chicken and Waffles Platter Serves: 6

By: Shifra Klein

This is a fun take on chicken and waffles, the classic Southern comfort food, served party-style. Guests can assemble their own mini chicken and waffle sandwiches with as many toppings as they’d like. 6 4 ½ ¼

Savory Belgian Waffles (recipe above), halved schnitzel cutlets, sliced (recipe follows) Bread and butter pickles cup honey cup hot sauce Garlic Chive Mayo (recipe page 52)

1. Arrange waffles on a large platter with schnitzel and pickles. 2. Combine honey and hot sauce in a bowl. Add to platter with Garlic Chive Mayo.

teaspoons kosher salt cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute, softened large eggs

cup lukewarm non-dairy milk teaspoons active dry yeast cup sugar cups all-purpose flour cup mashed potatoes, with nothing added (using a ricer will give you the finest mash)

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cup baking soda cup brown sugar

PRE-BAKING

POST-BAKING

3. Prepare 2 lightly greased or parchmentlined 9x13-inch pans. Gently push down the dough to remove a bit of the air and divide it into 24 equal portions. Form each portion into a smooth, taut ball. Place the balls of dough into the prepared pans, 12 balls per pan. There should be plenty of rising space between each roll.

5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake rolls until golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Transfer rolls to a baking rack to cool, then store in an airtight container at room temperature for several days. The rolls also freeze very well.

¾ 2½ ¼ 4¼ 1

1 1

2. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a damp dish towel and place in a warm spot in your kitchen; let rise until just about doubled in size, about 1-1½ hours.

Soft Potato Rolls

Note: The amount of potato is quite flexible — 1 large potato (I prefer Yukon Gold, but you can use whatever you have on hand) yields about 1 cup of mashed potatoes. You don’t have to worry too much about the quantity. You can use as little as ¾ cup of mash and as much as 1½ cups and it will still turn out great. If you have leftover mashed potatoes in your fridge you can use that, but if it’s salty you may want to reduce the amount of salt in the dough.

4. Cover pans with damp dish towels and let rise again for about 1-1½ hours.

Did you know the secret to the softest bread ever? During the research process for my challah book, I gathered recipes from many different Jewish traditions and discovered that German challah, called berches, is made with some mashed potatoes in the dough. That particular recipe didn’t make it into my cookbook, but I’ve kept it in my files for good reason. These rolls are super easy to make — just throw all the ingredients into a bowl and knead. The results are the softest sandwich buns. The only extra step is cooking a potato and mashing it in, which is totally worth it.

PRETZEL BATH

1. Place all ingredients into a large bowl and mix by hand or using a stand mixer until you get a soft dough that has some elasticity to it.

3. Serve with mini skewers.

Yield: 24 rolls

2 ½

Pretzel Buns Yield: 12 buns

This is a variation on the pretzel challah recipe in my cookbook, which people go crazy for. These rolls look and taste like real hot pretzels — chewy and salty on the outside, supremely soft on the inside. Lately, many eateries have been putting this type of roll on their sandwich menu and for good reason. Pretzeling does require an extra step of boiling the rolls in a hot bath for a few minutes before placing in the oven and then glazing with melted butter when it’s done. Once you do this once, you’ll find that it’s not as complicated or even time consuming as it may seem. If you have a nice wide pot, you’ll be able to get all the buns in at once and be done with the pretzel bath in no time. ¼ 2 1 3-3½ 2 1 2

cup sugar teaspoons active dry yeast cup warm water cups all-purpose flour, divided tablespoons canola oil, plus more for coating large egg teaspoons sea salt

egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water Pretzel salt (or coarse sea salt)

¼-½ cup non-dairy butter substitute 1. Add sugar and yeast to warm water and set aside. 2. When small bubbles start to form on the surface, add 2 cups flour and mix until a smooth batter forms. Add oil and egg and stir to combine. 3. Add in another cup of flour and the salt and knead, adding in the last ½ cup of flour only as needed. Continue kneading, until dough is smooth and springs back when poked. 4. Pour a few teaspoons of oil into the bowl and roll the dough in it to coat completely. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a damp dish towel and place in a warm spot in your kitchen; let rise until just about doubled in size, about 1-1½ hours. 5. Preheat oven to 375°F and prepare the pretzel bath. Fill a pot with water that is deep enough to submerge the rolls entirely. Bring water to a rolling boil, then lower to a simmer and add baking soda and brown sugar. 6. Prepare a parchment-lined baking sheet. Divide dough into 12 portions and roll each portion into a smooth, taut ball. 7. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, lower rolls into the simmering water. They should soon float up to the surface of the pot. After 1 minute, gently flip the rolls over to allow the top of the rolls to boil. Allow them to boil face down for another 1-1½ minutes, then gently place them, rounded side up, onto the baking sheet. 8. Brush with egg wash, then using the tip of a sharp knife, score an X into the top of each roll. Sprinkle with pretzel salt. 9. Cook for 20 minutes, until buns are golden brown, then brush with melted butter while still warm. Transfer rolls to a baking rack to cool, then store in an airtight container at room temperature for several days. The rolls also freeze very well.

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Rochie Pinson is a rebbetzin and Chabad emissary in downtown Brooklyn. She is also a mother, artist and author of a gorgeous and comprehensive challah cookbook entitled Rising! The Book of Challah (Feldheim, 2017). Rochie brings a unique blend of wisdom, spiritual awareness and down-to-earth practicality to the mitzvah of challah. Her voice is humorous and wise and her energy is infectious. She lectures and leads challah workshops and seminars around the world. You can follow her —and her challah journey— through her website at www.therisinglife.net and on Instagram @rochiepinson.

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

B E S T S O U R D O UGH

BAKING BREAD IS NOT AS DAU N T I N G A S YO U M AY T H I N K . WITH THOUSANDS OF BOOKS ON THE MARKET OUTLINING DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES FOR HOME BAKERS, W E H AV E C O M P I L E D A S H O RT L I ST O F O U R FAVO R I T E B R E A D CENTERED COOKBOOKS. B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

ARTISAN SOURDOUGH MADE SIMPLE BY EMILIE RAFFA

Author of the popular blog, The Clever Carrot, Emilie Raffa debunks the stigma that sourdough is unattainable. It takes practice and technique, but this book is perfect for novice and expert alike, from starter to boule.

ARTISAN BREAD IN FIVE MINUTES A DAY BY JEFFREY HERTZBERG AND ZOË FRANÇOIS

No weighing, proofing or kneading necessary for this technique that boasts only five minutes in the kitchen. The newest edition of the book includes more chapters than the original, with answers to readers’ questions and a whole new bunch of recipes.

BEST EASY AND CONVENIENT BREAD TOAST CRUMBS: RECIPES FOR NO-KNEAD LOAVES AND MEALS TO SAVOR EVERY SLICE

B E S T V A R I E TY FLOUR WATER SALT YEAST: THE FUNDAMENTALS OF ARTISAN BREAD AND PIZZA BY KEN FORKISH

BY ALEXANDRA STAFFORD

Each main chapter in this 256-page book contains basic bread baking, followed by subsections with recipes and variation for appetizers, entrées, desserts and much more using the bread you’ve baked (or store bought!).

This thorough yet accessible guide takes you through all the tips, tricks, tools and techniques that make artisan bread baking a unique craft. With recipes for every skill level, there is truly something for everyone.

BEST INSPIRED

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RISING! THE BOOK OF CHALLAH BY ROCHIE PINSON

BREAKING BREADS: A NEW WORLD OF ISRAELI BAKING BY URI SCHEFT

Rebbetzin Rochie Pinson’s gorgeous collection is so much more than just a cookbook (and so much more than just challah). With pages upon pages of anecdotes and inspiration, Rochie weaves tradition and personal accounts into every one of her recipes. With beautiful messages and swoon-worthy photography, this book will make anyone an instant bread baker. Consider it the perfect housewarming gift for a new bride and groom.

Israeli cuisine is known for its melting pot of influences from Morocco, Yemen, Germany, Georgia and more. Together with his Scandinavian background, Uri Scheft marries these influences in his world-famous bakeries — Breads Bakery in NYC (not under kosher certification) and Lehamim in Tel Aviv — and now this book for the home baker. The book combines classics and popular twists on them, including Jerusalem bagels, kubaneh, bourekas and of course challah and babka.

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Between Carpools brings you the secrets to summer’s best sandwiches — the one-dish meal that pleases the entire family. by Between Carpools

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WE ALL KNOW that the recipes we need most are for easy dinners. After all, dinner is the one thing we absolutely need to cook everyday and the type of dinners we turn to most often are the ones that are quick to prepare and can be enjoyed by adults and children alike. (No pulling out the cereal bowls this time!) That’s why, when we began working on the first Between Carpools cookbook, we knew what the topic would be — easy dinners. (Want to know what it’s going to be called? You’ll need to keep reading this feature for the reveal!) The cookbook, published by Artscroll, won’t be out until this November, but until then, you can find lots of easy recipes (plus lifestyle hacks, tips and everything else you didn’t know you needed) on the Between Carpools app. Back to the ultimate easy dinner — sandwiches! There’s no need for side dishes, you can use leftovers to fill ‘em up and they’re totally customizable to suit the needs of each family member. Those picky eaters can eat them plain while everyone else fills them up with all the good stuff.

Enjoy!

Esti, Leah, Renee, Shaindy & Victoria FOR THIS ISSUE, we are sharing two recipes from our upcoming cookbook called Dinner Done. That’s right, that’s the name because the book is all about dinner! We’re focusing on family-friendly meals and every recipe is personally Cookbook tested by our many kids. Only the ones Exclusive that get gobbled up make the cut. You’ll Recipes be able to open the book to any page and dinner will be served! Turn to page 50 for the turkey panini and page 52 for our favorite tacos.

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HOW TO BUILD A SCHNITZEL SANDWICH Schnitzel is the ultimate filling, with its crispy fried exterior. Since it adapts so well to condiments and vegetables, there are endless possibilities when it comes to creating the best schnitzel sandwich.

HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE PAIRINGS:

Pita bread + hummus + tomatoes + lettuce + vinegary cabbage + fried eggplant + tahini Ciabatta bread + pickled onions + tomatoes + mayo Club sandwich roll + lettuce + Russian dressing + fried onions + coleslaw Pretzel bun + grilled pastrami + tomatoes + lettuce + garlic mayo Club sandwich roll + fried onion rings + Buffalo sauce + tomatoes + mayo

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Mama mia Giardiniera!

RECIPES BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

Banh Mi Schnitzel Sandwich

Pickled Vegetables

Serves: 4

Heat ½ cup white vinegar and ¼ cup sugar in a saucepan over low heat and stir until sugar is dissolved; let cool completely. Peel and julienne 1 carrot and 1 daikon radish. Place in a glass jar with 1 thinly sliced red Thai chili pepper. Pour in the cooled vinegar mixture, submerging the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight before serving.

This sandwich combines the best elements of a classic Vietnamese Banh Mi — tangy pickled vegetables, a mayo-based spread and fresh herbs — with a classic fried schnitzel. The mash up is perfect! Note: If you can’t find daikon (a white Asian radish), you can use red radishes instead. Both are crisp and add great texture to the sandwich. ½ cup flour 2 eggs 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 cup panko breadcrumbs ½ cup flavored breadcrumbs 1½ cups canola oil, for frying 4 chicken cutlets, pounded until thin 4 French rolls Toasted Sesame Aioli (recipe follows) Pickled Vegetables (recipe follows) Fresh cilantro and mint Lime wedges, for garnish

Yield: 3 cups

This is our all time favorite deli sandwich topper. It also makes for a great side salad that brings crunch, acid and tons of flavor to anything it is served with.

2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.

1 1 4 1 1 1 1 ¼ 1 1 1 ½ 1

3. Dredge chicken in flour, then eggs and finally breadcrumbs. Fry immediately until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side.

½ ½

1. Create a dredging station: add flour to one plate and eggs beaten with soy sauce to a second plate. Mix panko and breadcrumbs on a third plate.

4. Slice rolls in half and spread aioli on both sides. Place schnitzel on top, followed by pickled vegetables and fresh herbs. Serve with lime wedges.

Toasted Sesame Aioli Yield: 1¼ cups

Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, 1 tablespoon honey and 2 teaspoons soy sauce. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week. 46

Hot Italian Giardiniera

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green bell pepper, diced red bell pepper, diced jalapeño peppers, sliced stalk celery, diced medium carrot, diced small onion, chopped cup fresh cauliflower florets cup kosher salt clove garlic, finely chopped tablespoon dried oregano teaspoon red pepper flakes teaspoon black pepper (5-ounce) jar pimento-stuffed green olives, chopped cup white vinegar cup olive oil

5. Place green and red peppers, jalapeño, celery, carrots, onions and cauliflower into a bowl. Stir in salt and fill with enough cold water to cover, about 1 cup. Place plastic wrap or aluminum foil over the bowl and refrigerate overnight. 6. The next day, drain and rinse vegetables. In a bowl, mix together garlic, oregano, red pepper flakes, black pepper and olives. Pour in vinegar and olive oil and mix well. Combine with vegetable mixture, cover, and refrigerate for 2 days before using. www.fleishigs.com

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What Makes a Good Sandwich? MAKING A GREAT SANDWICH REQUIRES VERY LITTLE OR NO COOKING. SO WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE MESS IT UP?

THE BREAD Starting with good bread is half the battle because amazing filling and condiments can’t forgive a bad piece of bread. If the bread or roll you're using isn’t fresh, toasting it will somewhat help. There is no hard rule on which bread is best. It really comes down to what matches the filling, along with personal preference. Some love hot, thin slices of pastrami on rye bread (traditional!), while others prefer it in a club sandwich with loads of condiments. A very crusty baguette won’t work well with crunchy or soft fillings (the filling will slide out as you bite into it). A super soft roll (think pretzel bun) works well with crispy schnitzel sandwiches and burgers, too. Whole grain bread is perfect for an avocado sandwich but doesn't go that well with buffalo chicken. A hearty bread doesn’t need much in the way of fillings, while a simple white roll can handle lots of flavor and condiments. THE CONDIMENTS A dry sandwich with no sauce may remind you of your youth, but keep it for memory lane. Condiments add flavor and provide that smooth texture to complement the crunch and crisp. A mayo-based dressing also provides a barrier so that your sandwich doesn't get soggy from sliced tomatoes or sauces. THE FILLING Is there any protein that doesn’t taste good in a sandwich? Whatever the filling you choose, it’s most likely better heated or at room temperature. While the filling is a really important part of the sandwich, leftovers actually make great sandwiches. Layer the filling towards the bottom of the sandwich and the delicate ingredients, like lettuce and tomatoes, on top. THE VEGETABLES Vegetables should complement the other fillings and add texture to the sandwich. Some say to season any raw ingredients but I think it’s more important just to slice them thinly. Think thinly sliced tomatoes, onions and pickles. No one wants to bite into a sandwich with vegetables that are bigger than the filling — they should be the supporting role, not the star. That is unless they are actually the main component (i.e. avocado or portobello sandwiches!), then they can shine! THE LAYERS Make sure every sandwich has something crispy, something crunchy, something soft and something smooth. Two slick items will slide against each other, so don’t stack layers of tomatoes on top of each other. AUGUST 2020

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Some things are more pressing than others. How to build a Pressed/Panini Sandwich PANINIS ARE REALLY popular in Israel. Instead of kiosks selling falafel and shawarma, meat toast sandwich shops (as they call them) are popping up everywhere. What they all have in common is a baguette filled with cold cuts of deli or hot dogs, with your choice of vegetables, pressed in a panini maker to form a crispy sandwich. The trick to an awesome sandwich is coating the outside of the crust with a thin layer of garlic mayo while cooking. You can also use some oil with za’atar for a more Middle Eastern vibe. No meat panini maker? No worries. We’ve got a method for any home cook.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ESTI WALDMAN OF BETWEEN CARPOOLS

You can substitute the

Turkey Panini Serves: 2 Reprinted with permission from Dinner Done by Between Carpools

Garlic Mayo: ½ cup mayonnaise 4 cloves garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon water Dash of freshly ground black pepper 2 (8-inch) baguettes, sliced in half almost until the edge 12 ounces sliced turkey deli meat 1½ cups lettuce 1 plum tomato, sliced ½ cup coleslaw 2 tablespoons crispy onions or crispy beef bacon

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garlic mayo with your

1. Prepare the garlic mayo by combining all ingredients; set aside. 2. Prepare the sandwiches. Spread the inside of the top half of the bread with garlic mayo. Layer turkey, lettuce, tomatoes, coleslaw and crispy onions on the bottom half. Fold sandwich closed. 3. If using a meat panini maker, press for 2 minutes. Schmear the top of the bread with additional garlic mayo (this helps the outside get extra crispy) and press again until bread is crisp. If you do not have a panini maker, use our stovetop method. Preheat a grill pan over medium-high heat. Add sandwiches and place a very heavy pot on top (or a skillet and a pot inside the skillet to weigh it down). After 2 minutes, schmear additional garlic mayo on the top of the sandwich, flip over and place pot back on top and cook until bread is crisp.

favorite store-bought creamy dressing or use some pareve pesto for a different flavor. Make your own meat toast bar! Set out vegetables (pickles, onions, fried onions, eggplant, lettuce, tomatoes, coleslaw). Add a selection of storebought sauces (sweet chili, BBQ sauce, Caesar dressing, pesto, garlic mayo) and assemble your own sandwiches.

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THE BETWEEN CARPOOLS team generously shared another exclusive recipe from their upcoming cookbook, slated to be released in November 2020, themed all around dinner. The recipes have been taste-tested by their kids so you know that they are tried, tested and kid approved.

People Pleaser Soft Tacos Serves: 4-6 Reprinted with permission from Dinner Done by Between Carpools

This soft flour taco is filled with a genius combination of flavors. It’s like biting into summer — the perfectly cooked meat, sliced so thinly, the refreshing salsa that you will simply fall in love with, the creamy garlic mayo and touch of pickled onions. Best of all, everybody will agree on dinner tonight, young and old. Build your own taco, exactly the way you want it. The adults will eat with their eyes first and then their taste buds will have a little dance, while the little ones might omit the jalapeño (the pickiest in the family might omit the salsa — big mistake). But nobody will lose out on flavor, even if it’s only the meat that gets into their taco. For the roast: 3 pounds French or Delmonico roast 1 tablespoon instant coffee 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons olive oil To serve: 8 (8-inch) flour tortillas 1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced Mango Salsa (recipe follows) Garlic Chive Mayo (recipe follows) Pickled Onions (recipe follows) 4-8 ears fresh corn, boiled 1. Remove meat from the refrigerator a couple of hours before you’re ready to cook to bring to room temperature. 2. Preheat oven to 425°F. In a small bowl, combine coffee, sugar, chili powder and salt to form a rub. Dredge meat with oil, then massage the rub all over. 3. Place in a pan and cook uncovered for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Cook for another 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and cover with foil. Let stand for 10 minutes. Slice as thinly as humanly possible. 4. To serve, char tortillas on an open flame for about 60 seconds per side, until nicely browned and warm. Top with thinly sliced meat, Mango Salsa, Garlic Chive Mayo and Pickled Onions. Garnish with jalapeños. Serve with corn on the cob. 52

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Mango Salsa The trick here is to finely dice everything. When we say small, we mean it. Tiny. Be patient and put your best knife skills forward. Don't skimp or rush, the size makes all the difference for presentation and taste. Finely dice 2 firm peaches, 1 firm mango, 1 red pepper, 1 orange pepper, 1 Granny Smith apple, 1 small red onion and 1 seeded jalapeño. Combine with ½-1 cup finely chopped parsley, finely chopped mint (optional, but highly recommended), the juice of 1 lemon and 1 teaspoon honey. Season with a pinch of red pepper flakes and kosher salt, to taste.

Garlic Chive Mayo This elevated mayo is the perfect creamy sidekick and goes with absolutely anything. Combine ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 clove crushed garlic, 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives (or 1 teaspoon dried chives). Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Pickled Onions This is our favorite way to pickle red onions. There is no pot involved. It’s actually a recipe we ripped out from the Shavuos issue of Fleishigs Magazine (actually, we didn't rip it out because we saved the whole magazine). Combine 2 thinly sliced red onions, ¼ cup sugar, ½ cup red wine vinegar, 2 teaspoons kosher salt and 1 tablespoon warm water. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month. www.fleishigs.com

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“ W H AT S H O U L D I M A K E FO R D I N N E R TO N I G H T ?” “H OW CA N I O RGA N I Z E M Y K I DS’ SW I M ST U F F SO I T D O E S N’ T K E E P G E T T I N G LOST ?” “H OW D O I G E T M Y N E W B O R N TO S L E E P ?” “ W H E R E CA N I F I N D SU M M E R C LOT H E S T H AT A R E C O M FO RTA B L E A N D M O D E ST ?”

BY: C H A N A Z E L DA W E I SS

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PROFILES

HEY ARE LIKE YOU , so they know what you need: Easy dinner ideas (nothing fancy please or the kids won’t eat it), ways to simplify laundry, some inspiration here and there, some shopping direction (read: what’s on sale and where), plus tips on how to juggle it all. In an era of ubiquitous lifestyle bloggers who seem to lead effortless Instagram-worthy lives, women of all ages are drawn to the advice, recipes, hacks and shortcuts from someone who just “gets” it. You might find brilliantly-designed customizable and printable life planners on Between Carpools one day, a twoingredient recipe that can be made directly in a 9x13 pan the next and a guest post with some insightful parenting tips the day after that. Between Carpools burst onto the scene four years ago with nearinstant success, as a collaboration between Victoria Dwek, a cookbook author and regular magazine editor and contributor; Renee Muller, a food stylist with an impeccable eye for design; Esti Waldman, an experienced photographer who shoots all of their images in-house; Shaindy Menzer, the designer behind some of the most successfully marketed brands in the Jewish world today; and Leah Schapira, the recipe developer and cookbook

The five women behind Between Carpools set out with one goal: to be the big sister you didn’t know you needed. These women are just like you. They pack lunches. They throw in a load of laundry. They carpool. They answer some emails. They wonder what they should cook for dinner. They prepare dinner. And they carpool again. author who connects the team and keeps them moving. With years of collective professional experience under their belts, this all-star team sought to fill the void in practical lifestyle advice that caters specifically to the life of an Orthodox woman. “In the beginning, we thought that we would run out of content,” says Leah Schapira, “but before long, everywhere we looked we saw another great idea or hack that we could share. We’re always brainstorming new ideas based on what we are doing in our lives right now.” What drives the

Between Carpools success story is not just the professional backgrounds these women bring to the table, but also the passion they share for their roles as mother, wife and home-maker, which translates into a constant desire to improve and simplify that often challenging experience. “You should take pride in what you do,” adds Leah. “We all have careers that we are proud of, but we love being wives and mothers, and that is our focus and value here.” Although they’ve published nearly a dozen gourmet cookbooks between them, the plethora of recipes published

on Between Carpools are mostly the kind of recipes that you would turn to time and time again for a quick and easy dinner on a busy night — hacks, shortcuts, tips and tricks abound. With large families including children of varying ages, the women of Between Carpools (who have over 30 children, collectively) know that the recipes you need are the ones you can rely on to satisfy everyone, without spending your day in the kitchen. (You’ve got carpool to get to, after all!)

Between the constant stream of content for the 90,000+ monthly users on the newly updated Between Carpools app and website, the launch of a new men’s site called The Mentch (www.thementch. com) and an upcoming cookbook, you can say this team has their hands full. Luckily, they know a few hacks to help them juggle it all. So, what should I make for dinner tonight? Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of three, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

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PROFILES

No time? Outflank your schedule.

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PROFILES

Long days need short recipes. Here is an inside look into the kind of easy, family-friendly recipe content that can be found on www.BetweenCarpools.com.

9x13 Flanken Reprinted with permission from www.BetweenCarpools.com.

When there’s so much to prepare each Shabbos or Yom Tov, who is going to mind that the main dish took 5 minutes to put together? We all love a good shortcut when cooking for Shabbos. After all, Fridays are short and our to-do lists long. When the main dish requires literally 5 minutes to pull together (yet tastes like it took all day to prep and prepare these flanken to perfection), you know it’s a winner. ½ - 3 pounds. bone-in flanken meat 2 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon cumin powder ¼ teaspoon allspice ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. 2. Create large chunks of meat by cutting down between the bones. 3. In a bowl, combine the spices. Sprinkle all sides of the meat liberally with the spice mixture. 4. Place the seasoned meat in a 9x13 baking dish. Top with a layer of parchment paper then cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil. 5. Bake for 3 hours, until fork-tender. Serve over rice or mashed potatoes. AUGUST 2020

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Here’s to deli, old and new, Pastrami, bagels and knishes too. Here’s to us and here’s to you.

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JEWISH DELI

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JEWISH DELI

Navel Pastrami Egg Bagel Serves: 6

This is one of my favorite sandwiches of the issue. With only four ingredients, it’s quite simple to make, but you do need to plan ahead as the pastrami needs to be cooked overnight. 1 10 1 ½ ¼ ¼ 6

(3-pound) navel pastrami eggs teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup oil cup mayonnaise everything bagels

1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Add pastrami, in its packaging, to a 9x13-inch baking dish and fill halfway with water. Cover with aluminum foil and cook for 12 hours or overnight. 2. Remove pastrami from packaging and shred. Return pastrami to oven to keep warm. 3. Whisk eggs with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add eggs and stir until just set, about 5 minutes. 4. Spread mayonnaise on bagel halves and top with eggs and pastrami. Serve immediately.

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JEWISH DELI

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Potato Knish Pastrami Sliders

Oven-Baked Gefilte Fish

Serves: 6

Serves: 8

Potato knishes make a perfect makeshift slider bun for navel pastrami.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place 1 frozen roll gefilte fish (with its paper) in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add 2 cups water, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 1 peeled carrot. Cover with foil and cook for 2 hours. Let cool before slicing.

6 1½ ¼

potato knishes, baked according to package directions cups cooked shredded navel pastrami cup honey mustard

1. Slice knishes in half horizontally and arrange shredded pastrami on bottom half. Drizzle with honey mustard. Top with other half of knish. 2. Skewer with toothpicks and slice in half lengthwise.

Gefilte Fish Beet Toasts Serves: 8

8 1½ 8 2

slices caraway rye bread, toasted cups Beet Pesto (recipe follows) slices oven-baked gefilte fish (recipe follows) cups mixed greens Fresh lemon wedges, for serving

Top bread with beet pesto, gefilte fish and mixed greens. Serve with lemon wedges.

Beet Pesto Yield: 2 cups

In a food processor, pulse 1 (17.6-ounce) package pre-cooked beets, ½ cup roasted cashews, ½ cup olive oil, 4 cloves garlic, ½ cup fresh basil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar and ½ teaspoon ground cumin. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

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Whitefish Salad Toasts Serves: 10

Making your own whitefish salad elevates the classic Jewish deli spread — the key is to keep it chunky. Adding celery and shallots provides crunch and freshness that cuts through the saltiness of whitefish. Note: Kosher ready-to-eat smoked whitefish is very easy to find in mainstream supermarkets and Costco. 1 1 1 ½ 10

whole smoked white fish stalk celery, finely diced small shallot, finely diced cup mayonnaise slices thinly sliced sourdough, rye or country-style bread, toasted Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste Celery leaves or fresh herbs

3. Flake the whitefish and combine with celery, shallots and mayonnaise. 4. Spread on toast and top with freshly cracked black pepper and celery leaves.

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EPIC BURGERS

Burgers are the quintessential sandwich, for good reason. For this issue we decided to share two completely opposite options; a simple smashburger and an epic loaded burger we dubbed the FCB — Fleishigs Cholent Burger.

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EPIC BURGERS

The FCB Serves: 2

This recipe combines the flavors of cholent with a classic American burger for a surprisingly delicious bite. Instead of two super large burgers, you can easily make smaller patties to feed four. 1 pound ground beef 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons oil 6 very thin slices kishka ⅓ cup Fleishigs Killer Sauce (recipe follows) 2 large burger buns, toasted 8 leaves Boston lettuce ½ Vidalia onion, sliced ½ cup caramelized onions (recipe follows) 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

⅓ 4 ½

pepper tablespoons oil tablespoon Dijon mustard slices non-dairy American-style cheese, optional cup Fleishigs Killer Sauce (recipe follows) burger buns, toasted Vidalia onion, sliced Caramelized onions (recipe follows)

1. Form beef into 4 patties and season both sides with salt and pepper. 2. Heat oil on a flat griddle or large sauté pan over medium heat. Add patties and immediately smash as thin as you can with a grill press or spatula. Cook until bottoms start developing a crust, about 4 minutes. Brush patties with mustard and flip. 3. Add non-dairy cheese (if using) and cook until cheese melts. 4. Spread sauce on buns and top with raw onion, burger and caramelized onions.

¼ cup canned fire-roasted diced green chilis

Fleishigs Killer Sauce

1 tomato, sliced

Yield: 2 cups

½ cup vegetarian baked beans 1. Form beef into 2 even patties and season both sides with salt and pepper. 2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat and sear burgers for 5-6 minutes per side. Transfer burgers to a plate. 3. Add sliced kishka to the pan and sear for about 1 minute per side. 4. Spread sauce on buns and top with lettuce, raw onion, caramelized onions and burger. Drizzle mustard on top of burger, then top with kishka, fire-roasted chilis, tomatoes and baked beans.

The Smashburger Serves: 4

This is THE way to prepare a classic burger. Smashing creates a solid sear all around, enhancing the flavor of the burger. It’s also a great option for those who prefer a well done burger without compromising on flavor. Feel free to add any accompaniments you desire, such as lettuce, tomatoes, pickles — the sky is the limit! 1 1½ ½ 68

2 1 4

pound ground beef teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black

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The flavor of this sauce develops after being refrigerated overnight, so plan ahead!

1 ⅓ ¼ ¼ 2 2 2 2

cup mayonnaise cup chopped dill pickles cup chili sauce cup ketchup cloves garlic, minced tablespoons dill pickle juice tablespoons freshly grated onion teaspoons spicy mustard

Combine all ingredients and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Caramelized Onions Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 4 thinly sliced Spanish onions and 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Sauté for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until color starts to develop. Lower heat and cook for an additional 40-60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and caramelized.

Breakfast Burger Serves: 4

This burger is inspired by the many breakfast burgers we have enjoyed at restaurants

all over, most notably at Boeuf & Bun, a popular burger joint located in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. This recipe makes four large 8-ounce burgers. However, you can form smaller patties, if desired. 1 ⅓ 1 1

cup mayonnaise cup jarred white horseradish tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup vegetable oil, divided 1 onion, thinly sliced ½ pound cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 pounds ground beef 1 (6-ounce) package beef fry 4 eggs 4 brioche or hamburger buns, toasted 1 cup potato sticks or potato chips, crushed 1. Combine mayonnaise and horseradish and refrigerate so flavors blend. Combine salt and pepper in a small bowl and set aside — you will use this to season all components of the recipe. 2. Add 1 tablespoon oil to a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and a pinch of the salt and pepper mixture; sauté until onions begin to develop some color, about 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté for an additional 15 minutes, then transfer onions and mushrooms to a plate. 3. In the meantime, form beef into 4 even patties about 1 inch thick and season with remaining salt and pepper mixture on both sides. 4. Add 3 tablespoons oil to pan over medium-high heat. Sear burgers for 5 minutes on one side and 3-4 minutes on the other side, then transfer to a plate. 5. Add beef fry to pan and cook over medium-high heat until crisp, about 3 minutes per side, then transfer to a plate. 6. Add remaining ¼ cup oil to pan over medium-high heat. Crack eggs, one at a time, into a small bowl and slide into pan, making sure not to break yolks. Cover and cook for 4 minutes, until just cooked but still runny in the center. 7. Spread horseradish mayo on both sides of toasted buns. Top with burger, onions and mushrooms, beef fry, potato sticks or chips and fried egg. www.fleishigs.com

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BACK POCKET

IN OUR FIRST issue back in November 2019, we featured Alenbi, the popular high-end Israeli restaurant in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. Chef Elior Balbul had been gracious enough to share his technique and recipe for classic lamb arayes — meat stuffed into pita, which is then grilled. Since then, this Israeli street dish has taken the food world by storm. What makes arayes so popular is the perfect combination of the crunchy pita exterior and the intensely flavorful, juicy interior. For this issue, I knew we had to feature some version of arayes. It is the ultimate sandwich, super simple to make and an overall hit, especially with kids. Since we already shared a recipe for classic arayes, I worked on fusing other international flavors to create some fresh new ways to enjoy this popular handheld bite.

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

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Italian Meatball Arayes Serves: 4

This classic Italian-style meatball mixture works wonderfully as arayes and is an all-around favorite. 1 ½

pound ground beef cup marinara sauce, plus more for serving ⅓ cup chopped fresh basil ⅓ cup flavored breadcrumbs 2 cloves garlic, crushed ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 egg ¼ cup canola oil 4 pitas, halved 1. Combine ground beef, marinara, basil, breadcrumbs, garlic, red pepper flakes and egg. Divide mixture evenly into 8 portions and stuff a portion into each pita half. Brush pitas with oil. 2. To grill: Heat grill to medium heat and grill for 4 minutes per side, including the exposed side. To bake: Preheat oven to 425°F and cook for 8 minutes per side. Serve hot with marinara sauce.

Teriyaki Arayes Serves: 4

You can’t go wrong with an Asian spin on arayes. 1 ½

pound ground veal cup sesame teriyaki sauce, divided, plus more for serving ⅓ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 egg 3 scallions, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons Sriracha 4 pitas, halved ¼ cup canola oil 1. Combine veal, ¼ cup teriyaki sauce, breadcrumbs, egg, scallions and Sriracha. Divide mixture evenly into 8 portions and stuff a portion into each pita half. Brush pitas with oil

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and use remaining teriyaki sauce to glaze the top of the veal. 2. To grill: Heat grill to medium heat and grill for 4 minutes per side, including the exposed side. To bake: Preheat oven to 425°F and cook for 8 minutes per side. Serve hot with teriyaki sauce.

Salmon Arayes Serves: 4

Ground salmon is a great alternative for arayes. You can roughly chop it yourself or ask your fishmonger to do it for you. The salmon should still be somewhat chunky — you don’t want it too fine, because some texture makes this dish even better. 1½ pounds ground or chopped salmon 1 small red onion, finely diced 4-6 cloves garlic, crushed ½ cup fresh parsley, chopped 2 eggs 3 tablespoons panko breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing pita 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 pitas, halved Hummus or tahini, for serving 1. Combine salmon, onion, garlic, parsley, eggs, panko, olive oil, lemon juice and spices in a bowl. 2. Divide mixture evenly into 8 portions and stuff a portion into each pita half. Brush pitas with oil. 3. To grill: Heat grill to medium heat and grill for 4 minutes per side, including the exposed side. To bake: Preheat oven to 425°F and cook for 8 minutes per side. Serve hot with hummus or tahini.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

NARRUTO BOWL: TEANECK, NJ

IN THE SPIRIT OF RESILIENCE AND MOVING FORWARD, MANY NEW KOSHER RESTAURANTS HAVE OPENED THEIR DOORS

Currently the only kosher ramen restaurant in the country, Narruto Bowl offers some flavor-packed noodle bowls with customizable options that make this spot truly stand out. Spearheaded by Joshua Massin, executive chef of neighboring fine dining spot Nobo Wine & Grill, Narruto is Joshua’s first foray into casual dining. Beyond the ramen bowls (from $19), the Crispy AF Korean Hot Chicken ($13.20), Bao Bites ($13.20) and rice bowls (from $18) are all worth trying as well.

DURING THIS

461 Cedar Lame, Teaneck, NJ 07666. (201) 379-2020

CHALLENGING

www.narrutobowl.com @narrutobowl

TIME OF THE COVID-19 CRISIS. PLANNING A RESTAURANT OPENING CAN TAKE MONTHS, IF NOT YEARS. THERE IS SO MUCH THAT HAPPENS BEFORE A RESTAURANT OPENS ITS DOORS AND MOST RESTAURANTS THAT RECENTLY OPENED WERE READY FOR THE TYPICAL CHALLENGES RESTAURANTS FACE, BUT COULD NEVER HAVE IMAGINED OPENING DURING A TIME WHERE INDOOR DINING

LBK GRILL: LONG BRANCH, NJ

Open for summer at the Jersey Shore, LBK Grill offers kosher fast-casual fare at great prices. They are known for their sandwiches, such as the Pressed Reuben ($16). The Pulled Beef Tacos ($16) are a popular choice as well. There are many other sandwich options, a variety of tacos, salads, kids specials and tasty appetizers like chicken tenders, fries, corn dogs and spring rolls. This spot is perfect for beachside takeout and has reported a successful opening seasoning due to its location, summer season and family-friendly fare. 110 Ocean Ave, Long Branch, NJ 07740 (732) 335-6633 www.lbkgrill.com

WOULDN’T BE POSSIBLE. WE WOULD LIKE TO TAKE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO INTRODUCE THESE NEW RESTAURANTS AND SHARE WHAT MAKES EACH ONE UNIQUE.

OTHER NEW JERSEY OPENINGS: TACO 185 BURGER BOSS WOK 18

EAT A PITA’S new second location in Long Branch is just minutes away from the beach.

BY: SHIFRA KLEIN MIKE'S BURGERS: WEST NYACK, NY

A staple in the Five Towns for years, Mike’s recently opened a location in the Palisades Mall, offering kosher food to local shoppers

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and anyone traveling along Interstate 87. The food at Mike’s is a family-friendly collection of appetizers, schnitzel, burgers and salads, with a variety of delicious dipping sauces. ABE’S CORNER: BROOKLYN, NY

Abe’s faced a unique challenge in that one of its main appeals is the sports bar vibe, which is not yet operational because of NYC’s current dining limitations. Despite this setback, Abe’s opened anyway, offering limited outdoor seating, local delivery and curbside pickup. A lot of the food on the menu is what you would expect to find in a sports bar setting, but with some unique twists like the sous vide wings cooked in duck fat ($12). There is the unexpected French Fry Salad with green beans, wild mushrooms and lamb bacon ($14) and a variety of burgers like the classic American ($15) and the Bacon ‘Cheez’ Burger ($19). The MOTY Burger ($26) is a gourmet option that combines prime ground beef, duck confit, pickled onions, sweet onion jam, pickles and arugula. 670 Rogers Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11226 (718) 684-7828 www.abescornerbk.com

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

designed as full meals. The RAM Burger ($40) comes topped with caramelized onions and garlic aioli, with a side of fries, crispy onions rings, candied bacon, crispy salami, pasta salad, pickles and coleslaw. The Kid’s Platter ($27) includes chicken tenders, a hot dog, fries, a giant chocolate chip cookie and Twizzlers. The impressive Dino Rib Special ($49) is served with cornbread, faux mac and cheese, tater tots, onion rings, grilled corn, coleslaw and pickles. The portions are all enormous and the experience, great for the whole family, is unlike any other. 21 Old Westbury Road Old, Westbury, NY 11568 (516) 997-4000

ROTHSCHILD TLV: NYC

Nestled in the Upper East Side of Manhattan, Rothschild TLV is all about elevated yet approachable Israeli comfort food. Executive Chef Tal Aboav presents a Mediterranean menu with homage to the famous Rothschild Boulevard in Tel Aviv. Some standouts include the Creamy White Onion Soup ($12), Black Risotto ($12), Kale Salad ($18), Bluefin Tuna Salad ($24), plus flatbreads, burgers and a variety of other dishes with the diverse flavor profiles of Israeli cuisine. 1129 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10075 (917) 341-4169

www.ramcaterers.com/drivein

TAAM THAI: PIKESVILLE, MD

Taam Thai serves a combination of authentic Thai cuisine and more familiar Asian classics, like sushi and Chinese wok dishes. Looking for some authentic Thai food? Try the Red Chicken Curry ($18), Thai Crispy Beef ($20), Pad Kra Pao ($18) and Pad Thai ($16). You can also order mainstream Chinese dishes like Kung Pao Chicken ($16) or Mongolian Beef ($18). Taam Thai also offers gluten-free options, some unique sushi rolls and Shabbos takeout as well. 1500 Reisterstown Rd Suite 215, Pikesville, MD

RAM CATERERS DRIVE-IN RESTAURANT: LONG ISLAND, NY

As events have dwindled over the last few months, RAM Caterers, an upscale catering company that typically caters hundreds of events per month, came up with an ingenious idea to keep their kitchen up and running and their staff employed. They built a pop-up restaurant from scratch, utilizing the parking space of their main event venue and even going so far as building their own picnic tables. Guests arrive and are given a parking spot that neighbors a table. All guests are separated by two parking spaces, orders are placed via their website to minimize contact and waiters bring the food via golf carts. To create a seamless dining experience, the menu offerings were

21208 (410) 484-0585 www.taamthai.com

LENNY'S CASITA: LOS ANGELES, CA

Lenny’s has already gained rave reviews in its young life of a few months, fusing the flavors of California, Mexico and Israel to create a fantastic menu with great prices. One of the most popular offerings are the flatbreads. There are eight options including a make-your-own, which starts at $9. Standouts include the Maple Bacon Flatbread and Lamb Shawarma Flatbread. They are known for their tacos as well, but beyond soft tacos, Lenny’s offers a variety of hard shell tacos, burritos, salads and a family DIY taco kit (starting at $40),

something new to the kosher market. The creamy rice pudding dessert ($8) is a unique end to this inspired menu. 4817 W Pico Blvd B, Los Angeles, CA 90019 (323) 677-5597 www.lennyscasita.com

STREET KITCHEN: MIAMI, FL

Chef David Benrey has gained fame in South Florida as executive chef of Harbour Grill. He has since moved on to this new venture that offers an eclectic menu combining comfort food classics like fried chicken sandwiches, burgers and tacos, with upscale dishes like dry-aged steaks and a variety of entrées such as the Braised Beef Cheeks ($49). Chef David’s cooking style is all about flavor and presentation and that shows up on the plates served at STREET Kitchen. 9460 Harding Ave, Surfside, FL 33154 (305) 763-8267 www.streetkitchen.miami

OTHER FLORIDA OPENINGS WOK’D: A new upscale Asian restaurant in the iconic Tower 41. 4101 Pine Tree Drive, Miami, FL 33140 (305) 230-4200

CAFE NOIR: Previously Cafe Mozart, this casual spot offers Israeli-style dairy food and is centrally located just minutes away from Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport. 3000 Stirling Road, Hollywood, FL (954) 584-5171

JACOB’S DELI: TORONTO, CANADA

This new deli opened just before COVID-19 hit, with a menu consisting of classic deli fare like matzah ball soup ($6) and pastrami sandwiches ($24), some Candanian delicacies like brisket poutine ($18) and a collection of gourmet sandwiches ($24). 1100 Eglinton Ave W M6C 2E2 Toronto (647) 895-5183 www.jacobsfoodcompany.ca

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RESTAURANT INSPIRED

The best from the best 3 R E STAU R A N T I N S P I R E D R E C I P E S

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Barbecue Short Rib Sliders Yield: 20 sliders

5 3 2 ¼ 20

pounds short ribs tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper tablespoons kosher salt cup canola oil slider buns

SAUCE

1 8 3 3 3

large onion, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoons ginger, chopped tablespoons ground coriander tablespoons cumin

1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. 2. Heat a braising pan over mediumhigh heat. Add oil to the pan. When oil is hot, add short ribs in batches; brown on all sides. Remove from pan. 3. Discard most of the oil from the pan. Add onion, garlic and ginger; cook until onion is translucent. Add coriander, cumin and chili. Once the spices are fragrant, add brown sugar, apple cider vinegar, honey, ketchup and molasses. Cook for a couple of minutes. 4. Return meat to pan; add bay leaf. If needed, add enough beef stock to

WAIT! DON’T SHRED YOUR RIBS! This has become my favorite short rib recipe to prepare for Shabbat or holidays. Complete the recipe through step 4 and serve ribs with some of the sauce. The chili de arbol can be substituted with ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes.

By: Chef Gabriel Garcia

2 whole chili de arbol 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 ½ cups apple cider vinegar ½ cup honey 2 cups ketchup 1 cup molasses 1 bay leaf 2 -3 cups beef stock (as needed) ONION GARNISH

large onion, sliced very thin on a mandoline cups flour Oil, for frying Salt, for sprinkling

cover the meat. Cover the pan with aluminum foil. Place in oven; roast for about 3 hours or until fork tender. 5. Remove meat from sauce; shred meat. Return sauce to stove; cook until reduced by ⅓ (the sauce should be thick). Return shredded meat to the sauce. 6. Prepare the onion garnish: Heat oil to 300ºF. Toss onion slices in flour; shake off excess. Add to oil; fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Season with salt. 7. To assemble sliders, place 3 ounces of shredded meat on each opened slider bun; top with fried onions.

WINE PAIRING

the Herzog family expanded their winemaking operations to California, it was time for the labels of Baron Herzog and Herzog Wine Cellars to have a home of their own: Herzog’s own state-ofthe-art winery, a 77,000 square foot facility just south of Santa Barbara in the town of Oxnard. Select grapes from Napa Valley to the Central Coast would be brought to the winery. Once there, wine would be produced under the supervision of head winemaker Joe Hurliman; visitors could taste and experience the winemaking process. While building the winery, the Herzog family conceived the idea of creating Tierra Sur, offering a dining experience to match the wine. The five-star restaurant is known for its dedication to the seasons; its everchanging menu highlights those changes and, of course, the staff recommends expert wine pairings. For six years, Chef Gabe, a graduate of the Los Angeles Art Institute, served at Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars under the mentorship of recognized Chef Todd Aarons. Now head chef, Gabe seeks to continue Chef Todd’s Reprinted with foundation of Mediterranean/ permission from Everyday Secret New American flavors, using Restaurant Recipes only ingredients sourced fresh By: Leah Schapira and Victoria Dwek from local farmers. The way Chef Gabe and his team see it, cooking kosher is not limiting, but rather it is an opportunity to be innovative; it’s not what you can’t do, but what you can do. TWENTY YEARS AFTER

COOK’S NOTES

S H O R T O N E V E R Y T H I N G B U T F L AV O R

RESTAURANT INSPIRED

“A dish with flavors this big is perfect with a nice spicy Zinfandel.” - Joseph Herzog

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Gruit BLT Serves: 4

By: Isaac Bernstein

This update on a classic BLT, a recent addition to the menu at Gruit in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, utilizes tomato marmalade in place of sliced tomatoes and peppery arugula in place of lettuce. The sandwich has all the elements — crunchy, smoky, salty and sweet. The pretzel bun brings it all together with its chewy exterior and soft interior. 2 (6-ounce) packages beef fry 4 pretzel buns, store bought or homemade (page 36), toasted ½ cup Tomato Marmalade (page 28) 2 cups arugula or mixed greens ⅓ cup mayonnaise 1. Arrange beef fry in a cold sauté pan and cook over medium-high heat until crisp, about 4 minutes on one side and 2 minutes on the other side.

This is how we gruit Baby

2. Spread marmalade on the bottoms of the warm pretzel buns. Top with beef fry and arugula. Spread mayonnaise on the tops of the buns and close. MAKE IT A PLATTER: Slice pretzel buns into bruschetta-like slices and arrange on a platter with beef fry, arugula or mixed greens, marmalade and mayonnaise.

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C O R K

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Cork & Slice Tuna BLT By: Shifra Klein Serves: 2

Every time we have lunch at Cork & Slice in Cedarhurst, NY, we always order the tuna BLT. There’s not too much to it, but the salmon, which has a wonderful crispy and smoky quality to it that mimics bacon, paired with the rare tuna and fresh vegetables all come together into the perfect sandwich for lunch. We knew we had to recreate it at home. 2

¼ 2

2 4 ½ 1 1 1

(4-ounce) filets center-cut salmon, skinned and cut in half horizontally cup oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided (4-ounce) tuna steaks slices country bread, toasted cup Garlic Mayo (page 50) cup mixed greens avocado, sliced tomato, sliced

1. Preheat oven to broil. Coat salmon with 1 tablespoon oil, salt and pepper and broil until crisp, about 5 minutes, then thinly slice. 2. Heat remaining oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Season tuna with remaining salt and pepper and sear for 30 seconds to 1 minute per side, depending on how rare you prefer it, then thinly slice. 3. Spread Garlic Mayo on bread, then top with mixed greens, avocado, tomato, tuna, salmon and bread.

A BLT from the sea AUGUST 2020

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B Y: YA N K Y S C H WA R T Z @ P I C T U R E M AC H E R

I O N C E S AW A C A R TO O N W I T H T WO CHICKENS ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF A R OA D. O N E C H I C K E N S H O U T E D TO T H E OT H E R C H I C K E N , " I WA N T TO C R O S S TO T H E OT H E R S I D E O F T H E R OA D.” T H E OT H E R C H I C K E N R E P L I E D, " YO U A R E O N T H E OT H E R S I D E O F T H E R OA D.”

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TRAVEL

rears its head, my mind boasts major cities, skyscrapers, beaches, ski immediately thinks of the exotic islands of the slopes, mountains, deserts, theme parks, shopping, Caribbean, the romance of Venice, the ancient wildlife, music, scenic road trips, wine regions, ruins of Rome, the stunning views of the French beer breweries, camping, canoeing and hiking. Riviera, the holy sites of Israel, the souks and Let’s not forget about America’s vast culturally colors of Morocco, the safaris of Africa and the diverse population, including the Amish, Mormon, heritage of Eastern Europe. Yet we fail to realize Eskimo, Native American, Chasidic, Cuban, Irish that to some of the seven-plus billion inhabitants and Danish communities (to name a few). You will of the world, we are actually the ones standing on find that the list of places to visit and things to do the other side of the road! In fact, the great “US of and see in America is endless. A” attracts close to 80 million visitors every year! I am sure I was not the only one who had high Think about it — only three European nations hopes for the year 2020. There is something have a population of over 80 million special about the end of a decade people (Russia has approximately that gets us excited and encourages AFTER 146 million people, Germany has 86 us to make resolutions to aim million people and Turkey, which is higher. Since 2015, I have visited a 3,000 YEARS, on two continents, has 83 million minimum of 15 countries each year. YOU’D THINK people). I wanted to top off 2020 with at least one country more than the previous In 2019, I visited 25 countries and WE’VE year. The year started off on the fulfilled one of my dreams of driving right foot. I traveled to a wedding cross-country from New York WA N D E R E D in Ukraine and from there I visited to California and back. The total ENOUGH. Dubai and Abu Dhabi. I returned to mileage from Los Angeles to New the States, which is when the world York City via interstate highways is around 2,900 miles, yet on my way back I drove literally turned upside down. Coronavirus hit the close to 6,500 miles by making detours in all universe and the world was put on hold, keeping directions, covering major US cities, back roads, everyone at bay, confined and stuck within their attractions, historic sites, national parks, natural own quarantine. With borders still more or less on lockdown, landscapes and landmarks, visiting many different it is time to look for domestic travel options. cultures and communities along the way. That road trip taught me that America is one With an area of close to 4 million square miles, of the most underrated countries to travel within. there is enough to tour and explore for a lifetime We may not have the clear beach waters of Fiji, nor without ever having to take along a passport. The can we compete with the skyscrapers of Dubai, options are vast, but room in the magazine is not. the antiquity of ancient Rome or the wildlife and Therefore, I will mention a few national parks, tribes of Africa, but when you combine everything because there is no better way to see this country America has to offer, no nation comes close. It than visiting its rich resources. WHEN THE TRAVEL BUG

N O T A L L W H O WA N D E R . .

TRAVEL

...ARE HUNGRY

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T H E

G R E A T

S M O K Y

M O U N T A I N S

TRAVEL

HENEVER

NEW

YO R K E R

asks me where to travel with a family within the States, my first response is the Smoky Mountains, which stretch over the border lines of Tennessee and North Carolina. The Smoky Mountains National Park is on the East Coast (close enough to the greater New York area), the most visited national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides for the actual hiking trails and over 800 square miles of nature and beauty, it is home to towns like Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, which offer hundreds of different attractions, making it the Disney or Las Vegas of country living. The park is called the "Smokies" because of the natural fog that often hangs over the horizon. When the first Western explorers arrived in the area in the late 17th century, the Native American Cherokee tribe were the inhabitants of the region. You’ll find a Cherokee museum and reserve in the small town of Cherokee on the North Carolina side of the park. There is an entire “grocery list” of options when it comes to hiking. Stop into the park's visitor center and speak to a park ranger to see which trail fits you best. The park also covers parts of the famous Appalachian Trail, giving you the opportunity to hike and experience parts of the trail. W H AT TO D O

Don't like to hike? You can still drive through the 33mile Route 441, known as the Newfound Gap Road, which stretches from Gatlinburg to Cherokee. It is one of the most scenic highways in the Smoky Mountains. There are many spots to stop on the side of the road to take in and photograph the breathtaking views, including spots like Chimney Tops (on foggy days it literally resembles smoke coming out of the mountain tops), Blue Smoke (the Cherokees gave it this name because the mountain ridges appear blue from a distance), Clingmans Dome (the highest mountain in the park) and many more. You can also drive through the scenic 11-mile Cades Cove Loop, a picturesque drive with mountain backdrops

and lush green valleys. Europeans settled this area in the early 1800s. Today, visitors can stop and enjoy many restored historic buildings along the loop. When it comes to the neighboring towns of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, I get dizzy just thinking about summarizing all the attractions! Here, however, is a short list of some of the ones I recommend: Ripley's Believe It or Not, Titanic Museum Attraction, The Island in Pigeon Forge (shopping area, hotel and amusement park), Dollywood (Western-themed park with water slides and live music), Alcatraz East Crime Museum, Hollywood Wax Museum, Pigeon Forge Snow (yearround snow park with tubing and slides), four different go-kart companies, alpine slides, a few escape rooms, numerous arcade shops, indoor skydiving, ziplining, ATVing, portrait studios, gemstone mining, trampoline parks, horseback riding, mirror mazes, zoos, aquariums, vintage steam train rides, moonshine distilleries, ferris wheels, laser tag, cable cars leading up to mountain tops and even a Salt and Pepper Shaker Museum. I officially give up because the list is extensive! My best piece of advice is to not try and push everything into one trip, because it simply will not fit. Rather, make the most of your days by waking up early and fitting in as much as you can. W HER E TO STAY

There are many hotels where you can stay, but when in Rome, do like the Romans and when in The Smokies, do like the Smokians. Don’t settle for a hotel room. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of vacation rentals and log cabins with balconies and scenic views that you can book either through Airbnb, Home Away or private agencies. They vary in size and they can range anywhere from $100 to over $1000 a night. W HAT TO EAT

There is no kosher food in the area, but there is a Walmart where you can find plenty of kosher products. Do not leave any food outside — the Smokies is home to the densest black bear population in this part of the United States. Last but not least, please do not litter! Respect the area as you would your own.

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Follow the signs and get off the main road to climb the 500 steps up to Moro Rock — a granite dome with a view of The Great Western Divide, which is the mountain range forming the border between Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. Make sure to visit the Parker Group, which is a cluster of giant trees. The eight Parker sequoia trees were likely born at the same time and

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WH ERE TO STAY

Sequoia is not Los Angeles, Paris or Tel Aviv, so do not expect any five-star hotels in this region. There are, however, some decent hotels, lodges, bed and breakfasts, RV and camping sites and plenty of cabins on Airbnb. Do not stay too far from the park, as you do not want to spend most of your time driving to and from the park. Because of the combination of hot weather, wind, drought and dry vegetation, the Golden State is prone to wildfires. In 2019, close to 2.5 million acres were consumed by fire. When I visited at the end of 2018, there were still remnants of the previous year's fire. Around 95% of California's wildfires are caused by

K I N G S

Upon entering the park's main entrance on State Route 198, also called the Generals Highway, there are many viewpoints where you can stop to photograph the scene or hike one of the many trails. The road itself is a steep climb with breathtaking twists and turns. The higher you ascend in altitude, the bigger the trees become. The road leads you to the General Sherman Tree and to Kings Canyon National Park. The parks are not only blessed with giant trees, but equally with valleys, meadows, crests, canyons and rivers.

WH AT TO DO

are named after the family of U.S. Army Captain James Parker, who was the park's superintendent in the 1890s. Not far from the Parker Group is Tunnel Log, a car tunnel carved in the 1930s out of a trunk of a sequoia tree that fell over the road. Driving through it is a surreal experience. In the same area, you can also take the trail leading to Tharp's Log. It is named after Hale Tharp, the first non-Native American to enter the forest. He hollowed out the fallen log and used it as a cabin for his nearby cattle ranch. Walk under one of the trees at the Fallen Monarch, which has served as a Native American shelter, hotel, saloon and stable for horses. Tour the Crystal Cave with its geologic features or cool off in Hume Lake, surrounded by beautiful mountains and dense forests. This article is only touching the tip of the iceberg and there are far too many attractions to mention, including Hanging Rock, Gamlin Cabin, Canyon View, Cedar Grove and more. Do your research, as nobody can custom design a trip according to your likings better than yourself.

S E Q U O I A

ITH A LIST OF 61 national parks, it is very hard to choose which park to visit. But Sequoia and Kings Canyon stand out because of their significance. Witnessing the enormous sequoia trees is definitely a reason to choose it over other parks. The parks are technically separate, but in many ways are administered as one. Situated in the Sierra Nevada mountains in California, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Sequoia is home to Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous United States (a six-hour drive from the main entrance) and is also home to five of the ten largest trees in the world, including the General Sherman tree, which is the largest tree on earth (and still continues to grow).

C A N Y O N

TRAVEL

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TRAVEL

humans. Be responsible and don't smoke or light fires in the park. W HAT TO EAT

Stock up before you get there (the closest Walmart is over a 30-minute drive from the parks). Buy your charcoal, grill, wood, sunscreen, water, etc. ahead of time. Otherwise, you will pay double. California's state symbol is the bear and although you won't bump into any bears in Los Angeles, San Francisco or Hollywood, you might bump into one in the park (I saw three). Thus, do not leave any food outside, hum a tune when you walk the trails to avoid surprising any bears with your presence and make sure to take along a whistle and a flashlight. Most of all, do not forget to take lots and lots of photos! You will relive your experience whenever you gaze at them in the future. Have a fun trip!

Yanky Schwartz’s first trip on an airplane as a 17-year-old student snowballed into a lifelong passion for travel. He travels the world and has amassed over 133 stamps across three passports and over 18,000 followers on his Instagram page, where he blogs about his adventures. Yanky also considers himself to be a tourist in his own city and is always on the lookout for interesting shops, festivals, street art, shows, landmarks and sights within the borders of his own hometown of NYC. He takes part annually in the world's biggest game of Musical Chairs (around 720 people), the Brooklyn Coffee and Tea Festival, the Honey Festival, events hosted by the New York Transit Museum and more. Yanky’s motto is that there is no excuse not to be awake in the "city that never sleeps." You can find Yanky and his adventures on Instagram @picturemacher.

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entertaining formally with a traditional Friday night dinner, there is something wonderful about the casual and effortless vibe of hosting the third official meal of Shabbos, otherwise known as “seudat shlishit.” There are no rules and everyone is relaxed. Gathering together on these long summer afternoons is just about the company (and of course, the food too!). I love bringing people together. Preparing food to be enjoyed while also making it beautiful is my passion. However, I know that not everyone shares this same enthusiasm for entertaining, so feel free to adapt this menu with whatever works for your lifestyle, celebrating the moment in your own way. In truth, the shared experience spent together with family and friends is what matters most. I “traveled” the Atlantic with my taste buds to create this Spanish-inspired tapas menu — a few dishes, prepared well using fresh ingredients, that create the perfect bite. The best part is that it’s all prepared ahead of time, except for a few garnishes, so that you can greet your guests, sangria in hand, and indulge in the moment, completely stress-free. When designing a menu, I always look at what fruits and vegetables are in season first. I think about who will be at the meal and what they will enjoy and try to make sure that there will be a well-balanced variety for everyone, including something unexpected that will surprise my guests’ palates. I prefer to set the table casually, without proper settings, by stacking small plates, napkins and forks on each end. Then I line up the prepared dishes across long tiles down the center of the table. (Tip: Cover the tiles with a thin piece of parchment paper for easy clean up later.) For this particular menu, I serve the gazpacho and spaghetti in individual vessels and place them in clusters on each end of the table for easy reach. The crudités and lettuce cups fill in the gaps along with a few bowls of the olives, which are a must — make sure to always prepare extra because they may be gone before your guests even sit down to enjoy this seemingly effortless yet fabulous feast. WHILE I LOVE

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PINK SANGRIA GA R L I C - ST U F F E D S PA N I S H O L I V E S GA Z PAC H O SERVED WITH OLIVE OIL AND P O M E G R A N AT E M O L A S S E S

SOURDOUGH CROSTINI AND CRISP FENNEL SALAD HARISSA KANI LETTUCE CUPS S PAG H E T T I W I T H ARTICHOKES AND TUNA ROAST E D GA R L I C A N D S M O K E D PA P R I K A A I O L I SERVED WITH CRUDITÉS SA R A L E’S L E M O N Z E ST COOKIES

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SHABBOS FEAST

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Pink Sangria Serves: 8

Citrus and stone fruit steep in orange liqueur for 24 hours before being topped with a chilled bottle of rosé — the perfect summer afternoon infusion. 2

2 2 2 4 ½ ¼ ¼ 1

oranges, one cut into quarters and the other cut into half moons blood orange, cut into half moons lemons, cut into quarters apricots, pitted and cut into quarters plums, pitted and cut into quarters mint leaves, loosely torn, plus more for garnish cup orange liqueur cup Patron Mango liqueur cup maple syrup bottle rosé, chilled

1. Layer the fruit and mint in a mason jar. Pour the Cointreau, liqueur and maple syrup on top; cover and shake lightly. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

5 ½ ½ ½ 3 2 1

1 ½ ¼

plum tomatoes red pepper green pepper jalapeño, seeded scallions, white parts only cloves garlic teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon cumin seeds cup cubed toasted sourdough bread cup olive oil, plus more for serving teaspoon tarragon or red wine vinegar teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste Pomegranate molasses, for serving Sourdough Crostini (recipe follows) Fennel Salad (recipe follows)

2. Pour spiked fruit into a large pitcher and top with cold rosé. Garnish with mint.

1. Working in batches, add tomatoes, peppers, jalapeño, scallions, garlic, salt, cumin seeds and bread into the bowl of a food processor. Process until coarsely chopped.

Gazpacho

2. With the machine running, slowly add olive oil in a slow stream and process for 1 minute.

Serves: 8

A cold soup on a warm summer afternoon is unexpectedly refreshing and addictive. Trust me, make extra crostini — they will be devoured. Note: Tarragon vinegar is one of my favorite varieties of vinegar and can

be found in any supermarket by Heinz. The flavor is so good, you may quickly become a tarragon vinegar convert. However, if you can’t find it, feel free to use red wine vinegar.

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3. Add vinegar and black pepper and process for another 2 minutes. Season with more salt and pepper, if desired. 4. To serve, pour gazpacho into individual glasses and drizzle with olive oil, pomegranate molasses and pepper. Top with crostini and fennel salad.

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SHABBOS FEAST

Sourdough Crostini This crostini can be made in advance, just wrap in parchment and store in an airtight Ziploc bag until ready to serve. Arrange 1 sourdough baguette, thinly sliced on the bias, on a baking sheet. Drizzle bread with olive oil, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ teaspoon granulated garlic. Cook at 350°F for 10-12 minutes, until golden brown.

Fennel Salad Fennel salad is so simple to make and is the perfect textural accompaniment to the gazpacho. Use a mandoline for paper-thin slices. Thinly slice 1 small fennel bulb and half a seeded jalapeño. Right before serving, add the zest and juice of half a lemon, ½ tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Sarale’s Lemon Zest Cookies Yield: 24 cookies

These cookies explode with citrus flavor and are the perfect ending to a delicious meal. ¾

1 2 3 2½ 2 ½

divided teaspoon vanilla extract large eggs Zest of 2 lemons tablespoons lemon juice (from about 1 lemon) cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon kosher salt

GLAZE

½ 1½ ¼

cup confectioners’ sugar tablespoons lemon juice teaspoon vanilla extract Zest of 1 lemon

1. Combine flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl and set aside. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer or using a hand mixer, cream butter, 1 cup sugar and vanilla extract. Add eggs one at a time, until incorporated. Add lemon zest and juice. 3. Slowly add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix until fully incorporated. Refrigerate batter for 1 hour. 4. Preheat oven 350°F. Roll dough into 1½-inch balls and lightly toss with remaining sugar. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 12-14 minutes. 5. Prepare the glaze by whisking all ingredients together. When cool, dip the top of each cookie into the glaze and refrigerate to set.

cup (1½ sticks) non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature cup + 2 tablespoons sugar,

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Garlic-Stuffed Olives These olives are a real crowd pleaser and I can never make enough! They can last for a while in the refrigerator so make more than you may think you’ll need. 2 2 2 1 ½

pounds pitted green Spanish olives pounds garlic cloves, peeled lemons, 1 juiced and 1 thinly sliced teaspoon fennel seeds teaspoon red pepper flakes Olive oil Fresh parsley, chopped

1. Stuff each olive with a garlic clove and place in a mason jar, layering with the sliced lemon. Add lemon juice, fennel seeds and red pepper flakes. Pour over enough olive oil just to cover olives. Cover with lid and shake until incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to serve. 2. To serve, transfer to bowls and top with fresh parsley.

Note: It’s important to prepare the olives at least 3-5 days in advance. The longer they marinate, the better (otherwise you will be biting into raw garlic). We recommend using pre-peeled garlic cloves for an easier process.

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SHABBOS FEAST

Roasted Garlic & Smoked Paprika Aioli 12-15 ¼ 1 ⅔ 1 ½

cloves garlic cup olive oil teaspoon smoked paprika Zest of 1 lemon cup mayonnaise teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish

1. Place garlic in a ramekin with olive oil. Cover and cook at 350°F for 30 minutes. Reserve 1 tablespoon oil and 5 garlic cloves for garnish. 2. Mash or blend the remaining garlic and oil with smoked paprika, lemon zest, mayonnaise, salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve. 3. To serve, top with reserved roasted garlic and garlic oil. Serve with crudités such as endive leaves, sliced cucumber, blanched asparagus spears, carrots and smoked salted almonds.

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Spaghetti with Artichokes & Tuna Serves: 8

1 ½ 5 3 ½ ¼ 1

pound spaghetti cup olive oil cloves garlic, minced tablespoons capers teaspoon red pepper flakes cup tarragon vinegar (12-ounce) jar marinated artichokes, drained and roughly chopped (5 or 7-ounce) can olive oil-packed

½ ½

tuna, drained and flaked cup fresh parsley, finely chopped cup toasted sliced almonds Slow-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes (recipe follows)

1. Cook spaghetti according to the package instructions. While spaghetti is cooking, heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté

until lightly golden brown. Add capers and sauté for 1 more minute. 2. Remove from heat, then add tarragon vinegar and stir to combine. Add warm pasta, artichokes and tuna. Mix well, cool and refrigerate until ready to serve. 3. Serve topped with chopped parsley, toasted almonds and tomatoes.

SlowRoasted Cherry Tomatoes Toss 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper on a baking sheet. Cook at 200°F for 4 hours. 98

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SHABBOS FEAST

Harissa Kani Lettuce Cups Serves: 8

This salad will leave you wanting more. Feel free to stuff inside mini pitas or serve with crackers, but the lettuce works wonderfully as a vehicle for this sweet and mildly spicy salad. 1 ¼ 2 1 2

pound kani sticks cup mayonnaise tablespoons harissa paste tablespoon honey, plus more for garnish cloves garlic, minced Butter lettuce, leaves separated to create a “cup” 1 English cucumber, julienned 1 carrot, julienned Juice of 1 lime ¾ cup puffed rice cereal

1. Shred kani sticks into strings. Combine with mayonnaise, harissa, honey and garlic. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Reena Goldberger is an event planner extraordinaire who lives in sunny Miami Beach, FL. Whether she is with her husband and four children or planning an elegant event for a client, Reena always has a smile on her face. Follow Reena’s fabulous projects on Instagram @reenagoldberger or on her website, www.reenagoldberger. com, where she blogs about tips and tricks for celebrating and entertaining at home.

2. In each lettuce cup, layer kani salad, then top with julienned cucumbers and carrots. Drizzle with lime juice. Garnish with puffed rice and a drizzle of honey. AUGUST 2020

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CHANI AND FREIDEL , owners and proprietors of Mimulo, were both raised in the Crown Heights section of Brooklyn, NY. In 2007, inspired to do something together with their creativity, they happened upon the perfect space, a storefront on Albany Avenue in Crown Heights, and Mimulo was born — a full-service florist and event planning business. Mimulo is all about bringing beauty and style to the world, with a focus on creating events that express each client’s needs. They have also created a campaign to bring joy to the citizens of New York with their #flowersforthepeople project, where they decorate public spaces (like subway entrances) with beautiful flowers to bring a smile to the faces of locals and commuters. They also offer flower workshops.

When conceptualizing our Shabbos Feast feature, we worked with Chani and Freidel to create an elevated, yet easy and comfortable picnic scene with white pillows, throws, blankets and beautiful flower arrangements. Reena’s menu really lived up to its make-ahead theme. The food traveled spectacularly and is the perfect seudat shlishit picnic to bring to the park on a hot summer Shabbos afternoon. You can follow Mimulo’s adventures on Instagram @mimulo or on their website www.mimulo.com.

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S I P 102

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L'CHAIM

WE SPOKE WITH wine expert Gabriel Geller of Royal Wine Corp. to get his take on the ideal wines for summer. Dry and off-dry whites, rosés and light reds are optimal wine options for pairing with grilled foods and fruit forward dishes.

BEST FOR WINGS AND BURGERS:

Baron Herzog Zinfandel 2015 Everyone thinks that beer is the only appropriate choice for wings and burgers, but this fruity, medium-bodied Zinfandel is the perfect casual wine pairing.

BEST ALL-PURPOSE:

Vitkin White Israeli Journey 2017 This inexpensive dry white wine is delightfully floral and unique in taste. It’s a refreshing blend of Mediterranean grape varieties with notes of citrus, tropical and stone fruits. Pair it with grilled fish or even salad.

B E S T VA L U E :

Pacifica Riesling 2017 This Riesling is an inexpensive off-dry wine with complex layers of flavors and vibrant acidity. I personally asked for this wine to be made and I am thrilled with the result!

B E S T F O R S T E A K S O R B R I S K E T:

Cuvée Hautes Terres de Fourcas Dupré Listrac-Médoc 2015 Look no further for a serious Bordeaux that doesn’t break the bank and pairs perfectly with some juicy grilled steaks.

BEST SUMMER DESSERT WINE:

S U M M E R

Tabor Adama Barbera Rosé 2018 Everyone loves a flavorful rosé. This variety has notes of strawberry and sour cherry that can stand up to all the grilling of a summer barbecue.

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INTERVIEW

THE BETTER HOUSE “Things only get better at The Better House” BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ

Shifra and I met with Amanda Apsan and Ilana Solomon, the motherdaughter duo behind

THREE GENERATIONS OF WOMEN: AMANDA APSAN, EDITH LEVOR AND ILANA SOLOMON

The Better House, an NYC-based, family-owned wholesale and retail housewares company that has been around for 81 years. Amanda recently joined the family business and we discussed family dynamics, challenges and the constant need to look ahead while admiring the past.

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How did the business begin? Believe it or not, my great-grandparents had a housewares company in Germany before the war. They were fortunate enough to move to the United States when my grandfather was four years old and built the wholesale business here from scratch in 1939. My grandfather took over the business and my grandmother Edith, who is in her eighties, is still involved today! My mother runs the operations and I recently came on to manage customer service, social media (Instagram @thebetterhouse) and I also launched our new retail venture, www.thebetterhouse.com.

What prompted the shift from wholesale to retail? Wholesale works, but we were missing that customer service aspect. I love connecting with our customers on a personal basis, whether to discuss a product, an order or even just to schmooze. I answer all the emails and

take all the calls. I am able to be attentive to the needs of our customers, which is lacking in big box stores and massive online retailers like Amazon. The shift to retail also happened somewhat organically, when our set of glass straws was featured in Oprah Magazine’s “The O List” in the December 2019 issue. That exposure truly propelled us and put our retail business on the map.

What sets you apart from other housewares companies? For starters, we are a female-owned business (which we are very proud of) and the fact that it’s family is amazing. Many of our employees have been with us for over 20 years and there is a true sense of family and loyalty. We are also unique in that we are the designer, wholesaler and retailer, so everything we sell is ours, not other brands’ products. We don’t sell anything that we wouldn’t use ourselves. My grandmother refers to each new product as a new child — from the quality and design to the

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BETTER HOUSE'S TOP SELLERS

manufacturing, packaging and pricing, everything is extremely thought out.

How has COVID-19 affected your

business and what is something you’ve learned from the experience? We had to furlough most of our employees at the start of the shutdown, which was heartbreaking. My mom and I came in every day to fulfill orders and keep everything going. I am usually upstairs at my desk, but it was eye opening to be in the warehouse and work that part of the job. It was an overwhelming yet humbling experience and we have definitely come out stronger. My mom would always say, “Don’t stress, just work on one box at a time,” which is a great life lesson in general. We did see an uptick in online orders through our website and Amazon, being that everyone was home, so we were grateful for that because our big retailers were closed for months. Our team has since returned and we are slowly getting ourselves back on track fulfilling our wholesale orders again.

M U LT I - P U R P O S E RO L L- U P R AC K Works as a trivet or cooling rack and rolls into a compact size

What would you say is a current challenge that didn’t exist a few decades ago? Years ago everyone shopped at these big housewares stores, but nowadays, everything can be bought on Amazon and stores are becoming more and more obsolete. It’s a challenge we are adapting to, which is why our direct-to-consumer division has come at a great time.

What are some of your top selling items? We strive to be eco-friendly and one of our top-selling products is of course the set of glass straws that was featured by Oprah Magazine. We have more familyfriendly straw options too, like bendable paper straws that don’t disintegrate in your drink (we tested and tested some more!). We also have a multi-purpose silicone-coated steel roll-up that is super popular and takes up very little space. It comes in three sizes and can be used as a sink protector, cooling rack, large trivet or draining rack. We specialize in storage and organization and have many products on our website that enhance the efficiency of your space.

MULTI-TIERED DISH RACK REUSABLE GLASS STRAWS As featured in Oprah Magazine

What does the future look like for The Better House? Though my mother always thought it would be easier for me not to join the family business, I just felt a pull and like to think that I am here to stay. I can’t think of anything more rewarding than working alongside her and my grandmother. My hope is only to add to their legacy for many future generations to come.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

i N

w W

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THERE ARE MANY types of friends that people acquire throughout their lives and sometimes, the comfort level with friends made during adulthood is more serious or formal. I’ve known Alicia Wilbur for just over four years and Alicia is the type of friend I feel like I have known my whole life. We may not see each other for periods of many months at a time, but somehow we always manage to pick up where we left off and enjoy a lovely bottle of wine or a meal together if time permits. This is truly the essence of Alicia Wilbur, assistant winemaker at Herzog Wine Cellars located in Oxnard, California.

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Wine is an agricultural product of the earth. It is also of people and their labor. It is of seasons and, especially for me as a Jewish winemaker, it is by the will of Hashem.” 108

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Certainly a rarity in the kosher wine world and even rarer for an Orthodox Jewish woman to become a sommelier.

GROWING UP IN NORTHERN California, Alicia was no stranger in the kitchen working with the freshest produce NorCal had to offer. It is not uncommon for winemakers and aficionados to have excellent culinary skills and they are categorically considered gastronomes. Having wine on the table at dinner was second nature in Wilbur’s childhood home, although she had neutral feelings about it. Wilbur reminisces, “My first experience with an eye-opening wine showed me how much there was to learn as well as how broad the winemaking world is.” There was no intimidation or preconceived notions in Alicia's wine experiences, which led to her refreshing perspective. Alicia made her way to Paris as a young adult and worked as an au pair for a busy Parisian family, where Alicia’s culinary horizons continued to expand. With the pressure of pleasing the French palate of her host family, there was no choice but to make the best of the best for these experienced eaters. Once Alicia returned home, she began working in the restaurant industry and was exposed to some of the finest wines produced in California. At the same time, Alicia took a position with the local Hillel (Jewish college outreach group) on her college campus and crossed paths with one of the most unique kosher winemakers of our time, Benyamin Cantz (fondly known as Benyo) of California’s Four Gates Winery. After a brief interaction at a community event, Benyo complimented Alicia’s wine knowledge. It was in those critical moments that Alicia decided that she would pursue kosher winemaking as a career. Despite not knowing much about kosher OR wine, she knew that the trajectory of her life had changed in so many ways from one simple interaction. The next step of the journey was an obvious one — to find a way to study enology, the science of wines. Originally, Alicia had a pull to study winemaking in Australia. However, she was living in Sonoma County, California and had a lot of exposure to wine there. Peers convinced her that studying enology at California State University in Fresno was the right fit since it is the only university in the country with a bonded commercial winery with endless opportunities and possibilities for experimentation. After completing a degree in enology with a minor in chemistry, Alicia went on to become a sommelier. A sommelier is a trained wine professional who typically works in fine restaurants and specializes in all aspects of serving wine and pairing it with food. It is considered a major accomplishment in the wine world, certainly a rare one in the kosher wine world and

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even rarer for an Orthodox Jewish woman to become a sommelier. With this resume, Alicia had the education, technical skills and versatile personality to get a job at any winery in the world. After settling down and starting a family, Alicia was hired immediately by Herzog Wine Cellars as a winemaker in 2013. down to earth approach when it comes to her profession. A “Wine is an agricultural product of the earth. It is also of people and their labor. It is of seasons and, especially for me as a Jewish winemaker, it is by the will LICIA HAS A VERY

of Hashem.” She dives deeper into the intricacies of the major challenges faced by kosher winemakers. For example, most people don’t understand that Tishrei (the month of the Jewish high holidays) is always during the grape harvesting season, which must happen within a specific window of time to produce the finest products. At Herzog, they never receive grapes on a Friday morning, nor do any major movements on a Sunday that is also Erev Yom Tov. Therefore it is entirely plausible that the entire team may be out of the winery for 3 or 4 consecutive days, sometimes for 2-3 weeks in a row, in the middle of harvest. This is utterly inconceivable to the non-kosher winemaker since general wineries will operate practically 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, for weeks on end during harvest. As with most parts of Judaism, Herzog Wine Cellars operates very differently. While it makes for logistical conundrums, more than a few headaches and some surprises, ultimately it works out and is ultimately all from God. “If there is a more visceral, direct way to surrender to the will of Hashem, I’m not sure what it is,” Alicia says. Alicia is a very important asset to the Herzog team in practice but also symbolically, making her mark in kosher winemaking as a woman. I love going to see her at the winery in Oxnard. I can spot her in the distance wearing her rubber wellies down in the cellar or donning her white lab coat and goggles in the winery’s lab, analyzing chemical components of wine with pipettes. Currently, Alicia holds

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the title of assistant winemaker and heads up the winemaking of the beloved Jeunesse series as well as the Variation series. It would be unusual to be a kosher consumer and have no familiarity with these two labels, which make up around 70,000 cases of wine in the Herzog production! Each series continues to expand with every passing year to make sure that Herzog has offerings for every budget and palate. Alicia has also been a major driving force for a line of organic wines, a project we can expect to see develop in the near future. It’s no secret that the kosher consumer is thirsty — literally and figuratively — for broader experiences and niche, lesser-known wine grapes and wine styles, which is something Alicia appreciates the most about working at Herzog. Will these varieties dominate the market? Probably not, but the desire to experience these things is growing. Some of us see Alicia as a superstar working at her dream job, balancing her contributions to not only her community, husband and children, but to the kosher community as well. Alicia takes it all with stride. “There is no way to do it all, no way to be perfect at anything, let alone everything.” So what is her secret? Living with intention and mindfulness. Winemaking is a tremendously spiritual process tied to the seasons and the earth. Knowing that people use something she’s involved in making to mark a holy time (smachot, Shabbos or holidays) is humbling and beautiful. Alicia hopes to inspire young women and girls to see science and winemaking as fun, exciting and spiritual. L’chaim! www.fleishigs.com

RECIPE INDEX KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

BREAD 34 36 36 95

Savory Belgian Waffles FF Soft Potato Rolls FF Pretzel Buns FF Sourdough Crostini Q FF M

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 23 28 28 28 28 31 46 46 46 52 52 52 52 64 68 68 94 96 97 98

Cabbage Relish Tomato Marmalade Resek Agvaniot M Q Tomato Confit Pico de Gallo Q Chimichurri Q Toasted Sesame Aioli Q M FF Pickled Vegetables M Q Hot Italian Giardiniera Garlic Mayo Q FF M Mango Salsa Q Garlic Chive Mayo Q FF M Pickled Onions Q FF M Beet Pesto FF M Q Fleishigs Killer Sauce FF Q Caramelized Onions FF M Pink Sangria M Garlic-Stuffed Olives Roasted Garlic and Smoked Paprika Aioli FF M Slow-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes M

FISH & VEGETARIAN 31 64 64 64 74

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Roasted Cauliflower Sandwich FF M Gefilte Fish Beet Toasts M Oven-Baked Gefilte Fish FF Whitefish Salad Toasts M Q Salmon Arayes FF

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80 81 94 95 98 99

Cork & Slice Tuna BLT Gazpacho Q Fennel Salad M Spaghetti with Artichokes and Tuna Q Harissa Kani Lettuce Cups Q

POULTRY 36 46 50

Chicken and Waffles Platter FF Banh Mi Schnitzel Sandwich FF Turkey Panini FF M Q

MEAT 20 22 23 52 57 61 64 68 68 68 74 74 79 80 80

Pulled Beef FF M French Dip Sandwich FF M Easiest Pot Roast Ever FF M People Pleaser Soft Tacos FF 9x13 Flanken FF Navel Pastrami Egg Bagel FF M Potato Knish Pastrami Sliders FF M Breakfast Burger Q FF M Fleishigs Cholent Burger Smashburger Q FF M Italian Meatball Arayes Q FF Teriyaki Arayes Q FF Barbecue Short Rib Sliders FF Gruit BLT Q FF M Gruit BLT Platter Q FF M

SWEET TREATS 95

Sarale’s Lemon Zest Cookies FF

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ADVERTORIAL

BRAD DU PLESSIS , an expert wine consultant at KosherWine.com, shares his ideal wines for summer that pair wonderfully with various recipes in this issue.

KosherWine.com is your go-to destination for discovering, buying and enjoying kosher wine. Shop your favorite wines and iconic brands that you know and love or explore 50+ unique imports and dozens of rare and pristinely stored library wines. All cases ship free, safely and quickly (within 1-5 business days, depending on your location). Brad offers free consulting services like wine pairings and cellar consulting and can assist as well with corporate gifts, event wines, education and more. Brad can be reached at brad@kosherwine.com or 845-203-0150. BEST FOR BEEF FLANKEN:

Baron Herzog Old Vine Zinfandel

BEST FOR BURGERS:

The fruity and smoky qualities of this wine are the perfect match for these sweet and savory flanken.

Gito Shani Red 2016 This wine has just the right balance of tannin, acid and fruit to bring the best out of your backyard burger. BEST FOR CAULIFLOWER SANDWICH:

Twin Suns Sauvignon Blanc 2019 The lush fruitiness and beautiful acidity of this California Sauvignon Blanc will make this sandwich shine.

B E S T F O R S T E A K TA C O S :

Domaine Netofa Rosé 2019 The bright acidity and fruitiness of this Israeli Rosé will cut through the fattiness of the steak while simultaneously integrating with the slightly spicy salsa.

B E S T F O R A R AY E S :

Recanati Reserve Bittuni 2017 Nothing pairs better with spiced meat than this indigenous grape from Israel.

BEST FOR CHICKEN AND WA F F L E S :

Champagne Laurent Perrier Brut Fried chicken is often paired with champagne. It may sound crazy, but trust us and try it.

BEST FOR PULLED BEEF:

Chateau Montroc Lussac Saint-Emilion 2015 The earthiness of this Bordeaux will be a great foil to the sweetness of the BBQ sauce.

B E S T F O R G E F I LT E F I S H :

Shiran Unoaked Chardonnay 2018 This bright crisp white is aged on its lees to add a creamy texture, which enhances the texture of the fish.

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LAST BITE

With people stationed at home during quarantine, there has been a huge increase in sourdough baking. We asked sourdough extraordinaire Chaya Suri Leitner of Spice + Zest how she most enjoys sourdough.

“One of my favorite ways to enjoy a fresh loaf of bread is simply with good quality extravirgin olive oil and smoked salt. The airy crumb soaks up all that potent olive oil, while the smoked salt adds a nice unexpected touch, which will have your tastebuds dancing.”

SMOKED SALT: MALDON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: ALONSO OLIVE OIL

Chaya Suri Leitner is a bread-baking instructor and the creator of The Sourdough Institute, where she teaches eager novice and advanced bakers the ins and outs of sourdough baking, such as creating and maintaining a sourdough starter and baking a multitude of products with it. She can be reached on Instagram @spiceandzest or through her website www.spiceandzest.com.

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Fleishigs

AUGUST 2020