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COOKING IN HEELS: FOOD THAT’S A SHOE-IN.
DINNER ISSUE D E SSER T F IR ST ? YE A H , WE H AVE D I N N ER I SSUE S .
ISSUE N O V. 2 0 2 0
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GAD ELBAZ: THE VOICE OF AN ANGEL, THE HANDS OF A CHEF.
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EDITOR'S LETTER
THE DINNER ISSUE
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein
The dinner issue is now served. GROWING UP, DINNER was always an event. We came home from school between 3 and 5 PM and sat down to dinner around 7:00 when my father came home from work. There was always a fresh loaf of rye bread to soak up the various versions of Israeli salad that my mother made every night. Life was different back then. Sitting down for an official family dinner every night is not feasible for many, especially when there are different age groups, work schedules and other commitments involved. In our household, with my two teenagers away for the week and one toddler at home, a consistent dinner schedule simply doesn’t exist. Our 3-yearold daughter eats a repeat dinner of chicken nuggets, pasta and cucumber sticks with some slight variation of pizza and french fries, scrambled eggs and baby carrots. Shlomo and I vary from work events to occasional restaurant excursions and the food we make for recipe testing. Our dinners happen every Shabbos when we are finally all together without any other distractions. It is a beautiful bonding experience that makes me truly appreciate the concept of Shabbos (something I may not have valued as much as a teenager). Even though this issue is all about dinner, Shabbos is a weekly occurrence, so I made sure to feature an exciting Shabbos menu as well. For some inspiration, so I reached out to Mushky Perlstein, who is wellknown for creating modern, light, delicious Shabbos menus each week for her community in California. She shared some awesome recipes, which can of course be made for weeknights as well. The issue is packed with practical
inspiration — no rules apply. Shushy Turin, a working mom and food blogger, joined us as guest editor with her unique cooking style, approach and plan for not just dinner but lunch as well. What I love is the flexibility and how four different meal ideas can carry you through the week, from lunch and dinner to Shabbos. I have acquired loads of inspiration, including her amba chicken (which she makes to have on hand for lunch) together with her Caesar dressing for an amazing salad that I started to serve Shabbos day. In fact, all her lunch bowl ideas work wonderfully for Shabbos lunch, as they are items that can be served cold or at room temperature. Mix and match is what it’s all about. Our staff’s go-to dinners are full of easy, flavorful weeknight ideas that take minimal time to prepare but create impact. The ginger scallion topping, which is a favorite of contributor and copy editor Chana Zelda Weiss, has become a staple in our fridge and adds tremendous flavor to almost anything. Editor Elisheva Taitz, who has been eating vegan food before it was invogue, shares a comforting pumpkin tempeh chili. Check out my easy and versatile sheet pan chicken dinner, something that everyone should have in their repertoire. Our photographer Schneur Menaker piles on the flavor with his chicken and fennel salad and Shlomo had to share his Mielie Pap and gravy, a mainstay in our kitchen. The issue is packed with everything you need to put dinner on the table stress-free. I hope it inspires your cooking as it did mine. Bitayavon, Shifra
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANTS Alana White Devorah Kahan Ella Kurtz COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Here’s to you o’ Fleishigs reader, fine diner and meticulous preparer. The one who knows good content from bad, the one who can cook with deadlines due even when the dinner list grows by a few. You’re a fine chef, and better eater too, and we’re thankful because we’d be nothing without you. This issue was designed to the understated musical stylings of Adi Ran, Fleetwood Mac and Yuval Dayan.
TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine
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Meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of pepper steak
WEEKNIGHT
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Shushy Turin’s dinner and lunch strategies
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Vegetarian dinners with the women behind Tahini & Turmeric
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Fleishigs’ staff go-to dinners
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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GADGETS Essentials and extras to enhance your cooking
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UNIQUE STAPLES Our favorite unique staples for making this issue plus our favorite budget dinners
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BUTCHER'S CUT Meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of pepper steak
20 HEALTH Easy tips for adding nutrition to your meals 58 L'CHAIM Wines that elevate weeknight dinners 60 SHABBOS Mushky Perlstein of Ma Menu shares one of her favorite Shabbos menus 76
THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Demystifying Gewürztraminer
84 CULINARY SCHOOL Tips on making the perfect cookie 86 PROFILE Gaia Coffee Roasters 92 COOKBOOK The Tahini Table By Amy Zitelman
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BACK POCKET Perfect Shabbos dips
96 CELEBRATE An evening with Gad Elbaz to celebrate his new wine with Shiloh 108 INTERVIEW Raphael Bondi of Alonso Olive Oil 112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE Coffee Liqueur Baked Beans
GUEST EDITOR: SHUSHY TURIN
78 BAKING
Giant cookies
@COOKINGINHEELSS SHUSHY TURIN (née Shine) is a full-time nurse practitioner by day, food blogger and recipe developer by night. Shushy is passionate about finding flavor bomb ingredients and using them in as many ways as possible. She also loves learning and incorporating techniques from all over the world into her cooking. She lives in New Jersey with her husband Ben and their three children. Find her on Instagram @cookinginheelss and on her blog www.cookinginheelss.com.
CROCK POT 7-QUART PROGRAMMABLE SLOW COOKER With new gadgets on the market like air fryers, sous vide machines and multi-cookers, the slow cooker is still our top choice. It’s the classic choice for Shabbos cholent, but can also be used to make easy weeknight dinners like our Slow Cooker Pepper Steak (page 18). $59.99 www.amazon.com
ZYLISS TOMATO PEELER This peeler comes in handy when peeling a bunch of tomatoes or other soft-skinned fruits or vegetables for a recipe like Salade Cuite (page 74). The blade is serrated, making the job much quicker and easier than using a traditional peeler.
OPEN KITCHEN BY WILLIAMS SONOMA SPIDER A spider is a great tool to have on hand for deep frying, stir frying or straining food from boiling water. The extra long handle makes it convenient to lift food from hot liquid while keeping your hand away from the heat. Use it for frying the rice noodles for the Estihana Shredded Crispy Beef (page 19). $19.95 www.williams-sonoma.com
$8.99 www.amazon.com
KITCHEN SCALE A kitchen scale is an underrated household gadget that yields the most accurate measurements. We highly recommend using it for baking the giant cookies on page 78 for the best results. A good quality kitchen scale will last for years. $99.99 www.all-clad.com
OXO STEEL PIZZA CUTTER A pizza cutter is for more than just pizza. Use it to slice pastry dough, pie crust or the fillo for the Mediterranean Lamb Fillo Flatbread (page 27). This version is extremely durable with a sharp, stainless steel blade and an easy-to-grip handle. $12.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com
An immersion blender is truly a workhorse and one of our favorite gadgets. It’s great for making purées, dressings, soups and dips without the hassle of bulky equipment. Plus, it’s super compact and clean up is a breeze.
Sheet pans are a no-brainer for the kitchen, with endless uses. It’s great to have a variety of sizes on hand, if space permits, such as ¼ and ½ sheet pans, but these extra large sheet pans make it easy to cook a lot of food at once. They are durable and easy to clean. Use for sheet pan dinners such as Shifra’s Sheet Pan Chicken (page 50) or baking giant cookies (page 78).
$39.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com
$26 www.surlatable.com
CUISINART SMART STICK TWO-SPEED HAND BLENDER
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USA PAN NONSTICK 20X14-INCH EXTRA LARGE SHEET PAN
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FUN FACT The Crock Pot (otherwise known as the original slow cooker) was invented by Jewish electrical engineer Irving Nachumsohn (aka Irving Naxon) and was granted a patent on January 23, 1940. The Crock Pot was inspired by Irving’s Lithuanean grandmother’s cholent tales and a solution to avoid turning on the oven during the summer. Irving followed this invention with others, leaving his engineering career to become a full-time inventor and businessman. He was so passionate about doing everything himself, he even studied patent law to avoid hiring a lawyer when applying for patents for his inventions.
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UNIQUE STAPLES
BUDGET DINNERS Tacos are the ultimate way to utilize
leftover ingredients from a prior night’s dinner or simple and nutritious pantry ingredients like canned beans.
O U R FAV O R I T E CONDIMENTS
Making flavorful, quick dinners oftentime relies on good quality, delicious condiments. We have an ever-evolving array of sauces, dips and spreads that we are constantly trying out. The following are some of our latest favorites, but they change and vary by season.
ORTEGA STREET TACO SAUCE: TINGA CHIPOTLE TOMATO JALAPEÑO This condiment is part salsa, part hot sauce, with a hint of sweetness from brown sugar. Certified kosher by OU.
We love Del Campo Corn Tortillas — just make sure to toast or heat through first for best results.
Polenta (in a tube) and cornmeal are
great shelf-stable ingredients to have on hand for busy nights when nothing is planned.
Try San Gennaro or Trader Joe’s polenta in a tube (Chickpea and Pepper Shakshuka, page 44) and any fine yellow cornmeal (Mielie Pap, page 53).
Puff pastry is always a hit for a quick
flatbread dinner.
While the recipe calls for fillo dough, puff pastry is a quick stand-in for the Mediterranean Lamb Filo Flatbread (page 27).
Vegetarian staples like canned
beans, chickpeas and tempeh are perfect for vegetarian or vegan meals, which are quite filling, nutritious and delicious. Most importantly, these products are budget friendly.
Try tempeh in the Pumpkin Tempeh Chili (page 55). Tempeh should be refrigerated but can be kept frozen as well. Use chickpeas in the Chickpea and Pepper Shakshuka (page 44) and Hearty Beet and Chickpea Meatballs (page 44).
MINA TAGINE SAUCE Mina produces high quality products that are a mainstay in our pantry, such as the harissa and shakshuka sauce. Recently we have been using the tagine sauce, which completely transforms salmon, chickpeas, chicken, beef or lamb. When braised, it tastes like it came from an authentic Morrocan kitchen. Available in three varieties, one designed for chicken, one for fish and one for lamb and beef. Certified kosher by ChofK.
MIGHTY SESAME CO. SQUEEZABLE TAHINI This pure tahini provides instant gratification in the form of a squeeze bottle — no stirring, no mess. Certified kosher by OU.
SWEET BABY RAY’S BBQ SAUCE We love this brand as an allpurpose, inexpensive barbecue sauce that is truly packed with flavor. It’s available in a wide variety of flavors. Certified kosher by OU.
WORLD HARBORS ASIAN STYLE SWEET CHILI SAUCE Using a bottled marinade is the easiest way to get dinner on the table quickly. This one is on the spicy side, with a delicious sweet-savory flavor. Certified kosher by OU.
Sheet pans are a vehicle for budget-
friendly meals by design. Have some chicken you bought on sale? Humble potatoes? Throw them together on a sheet pan and you have an instant one-pan, family-friendly meal that takes no time.
Try the Sheet Pan Chicken on page 50.
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HANAMAL AMBA SAUCE Amba is an Israeli pickled mango sauce that packs a real punch. It’s not spicy, but the flavor is outstanding and unlike anything else. Use it as a marinade or sauce. Look in the aisle with the bottled sauces and tahini for a variety of (mostly Israeli) brands. Certified kosher by Badatz. www.fleishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
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F PEPPER STEAK is one of your favorite comfort foods, you’re not alone. Earlier this summer, when folks in the US were really feeling the stress of the pandemic, we sold out of this tasty, convenient cut. The steak itself has nothing to do with peppers; its name comes from a popular dish that pairs the thin strips of steak with julienned peppers and a thick sauce for a satisfying and relatively easy dish. The tender strips of steak are cut from the shoulder, so they’re lean and have a nice beefy flavor, but are not overly rich or greasy. While some cuts of beef are best butchered using mechanical saws (think osso bucco), pepper steak is cut by hand by our most skilled butchers. It takes about five minutes to cut one pound of shoulder into the thin strips that are ready for your skillet or wok. Watching the knives flash as pepper steak is being cut is a beautiful sight. You can cut your own at home using shoulder
steak (if it’s just slightly frozen, it will be easier to cut), but one of the nicest things about this cut is that your butcher does the work for you. Many pepper steak recipes call for soy sauce, which puts them in the “Asian” category. Soy sauce adds a depth of flavor and helps tenderize the meat. Interestingly enough, soy sauce is not exclusive to Asian cuisine. Where people go, food traditions follow. Jamaica saw a large wave of Chinese immigration, particularly among folks looking for work after enslaved Africans were emancipated in the British Commonwealth in the mid-19th century. Jamaican pepper steak recipes utilize soy sauce and amp up the heat with Scotch bonnet chilis, which can be added to the Slow Cooker Pepper Steak (recipe follows) to bring some Jamaican flair. With or without soy or hot peppers, the following recipes will be valued additions to your repertoire. NOVEMBER 2020
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Slow Cooker Pepper Steak
Pepper Steak Tacos
Serves: 4-6
Serves: 6
This dish is inspired by the pepper steak we know and love from the Chinese takeout menu.
Marinating the pepper steak and cooking quickly over high heat results in tender and super flavorful strips of steak that make an ultimate taco topper.
1 2 1 4 1¼ ¼ 2 1 1
1 1 1 1
pound sliced pepper steak bell peppers, sliced large Vidalia onion, sliced cloves garlic, smashed cups chicken broth, stock or water cup soy sauce tablespoons honey tablespoon freshly grated ginger tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water tablespoon toasted sesame oil tablespoon brown sugar tablespoon tomato paste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Prepared rice or noodles, for serving
1. Add all ingredients to a slow cooker and mix to combine. Cover and cook on low for 6-8 hours. 2. To make a thicker, glossier sauce, strain and add the liquid to a pan over high heat. Bring to a boil and reduce for 10 minutes until thickened. Add meat and vegetables back into sauce. Serve with rice or noodles.
1 ⅓ ¼ ¼ ¼ 6 1 ½ ½ 2 1 1 1 12
pound sliced pepper steak cup chopped Spanish onion cup orange juice cup lime juice cup olive oil cloves garlic teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground cumin tablespoons canola oil large red onion, sliced red bell pepper, sliced green bell pepper, sliced corn tortillas Sliced limes, pickled red onions (page 65) and sliced jalapeños, for serving Guacamole (recipe follows), for serving Sweet Chili Mayo (recipe follows), for serving
1. Place pepper steak in a large Ziploc bag or container. To the bowl of a food processor, add onion, orange juice, lime juice, olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt and cumin; blend until smooth, then add to steak. Alternatively, grate the onion and garlic and add to remaining marinade ingredients with the pepper steak. Marinate steak for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours.
OTHER TOPPING IDEAS COLESLAW MARINATED RED CABBAGE SLICED TOMATOES LEFTOVER SHABBOS DIPS
Guacamole Mash 2 ripe avocados with ¼ cup diced red onion, 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, the juice of 1 lime and ¼ cup chopped cilantro. Season with a pinch of kosher salt.
Sweet Chili Mayo Combine 1 cup mayonnaise with ⅓ cup sweet chili sauce. Thin with lime juice, if desired.
MAKE IT A SALAD Use this technique to create a Mexican-inspired steak salad. Serve the meat and vegetables over greens with guacamole and a drizzle of sweet chili mayonnaise.
2. Add canola oil to a large sauté pan over high heat. Carefully remove steak from marinade and sear for 3 minutes, until golden brown. Flip and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining steak. Transfer to a plate. 3. Add sliced red onions and peppers to the pan and sauté over high heat just until tender, about 5 minutes. 4. Heat corn tortillas in the oven until warmed through. 5. Serve steak with sautéed onions and peppers, lime, pickled red onions, sliced jalapeños, guacamole and Sweet Chili Mayo.
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Estihana Shredded Crispy Beef Serves: 4
We received dozens of requests for this classic Chinese takeout dish, made popular by Estihana, a mainstay in kosher Chinese cuisine. We recreated it and simply could not get enough. 1½ 2 4
⅓
pounds sliced pepper steak cups cornstarch, divided Oil, for frying ounces dry rice noodles (such as Natural Earth Products), slightly broken up cup teriyaki sauce
½ ⅓ 2 1 2
cup juice from 1 (11-ounce) can of mandarin oranges cup sugar tablespoons corn syrup tablespoon Sriracha tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
1. Dust pepper steak with 1 cup cornstarch and toss to evenly coat; set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. Dust again with remaining cornstarch and set aside for another 20 minutes. 2. Fill a deep sauté pan halfway with oil and heat over medium-high heat. Fry meat in a single layer until crispy, about 3-5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. While oil is still hot, add rice noodles and stir slightly with a slotted spoon until golden and puffled, which happens almost immediately. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Note: If oil is too dark from frying the meat, replace with fresh oil before frying the noodles. 3. Whisk teriyaki sauce, mandarin juice, sugar, corn syrup and Sriracha until combined. Heat a wok or the same sauté pan over high heat and add sauce. Bring to a boil, add crispy beef and toss until fully coated. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and serve with fried rice noodles.
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HEALTHY EATING
Five Easy Ways to Add Nutrition to Your Meals By: Celeste Hackel Incorporating small nutritious changes can help make your meals a little healthier and more nutrient dense without being complicated or restrictive.
Celeste Hackel is an Integrative Nutrition Health Coach based in Woodmere, NY. With a master’s degree in Organizational Psychology from Columbia University, health coach certification from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition and a lifelong passion for health and wellness, Celeste works with individual clients to simplify and prioritize health through a holistic, non-diet approach, practical meal prep tips and easy to follow, nutritious recipes. She also runs online group programs. You can follow her on instagram @healthy.to.the.core for more health tips.
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Start with a soup. Roast whatever vegetables you have, or better yet, sauté last night’s leftovers with onion and garlic, add some water or broth, spice it up and purée. A bowl of vegetable soup is a great source of nutrients and provides extra fluid. Garnish with nuts or seeds for added protein and healthy fats. A big pot of soup can last for a few meals or freeze for another busy night.
Replace refined grains with whole grains. Whole grains, such as barley, bulgur, oats, corn, whole wheat bread and brown rice have their entire kernel intact and are a better source of fiber and nutrients than refined grains. Refined grains like white flour, white bread and white rice are stripped of fiber and nutrients in the refining process. Even when enriched, they have less fiber and nutrients than whole grains. Choosing whole grains over refined grains is associated with reduced risk of type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease and certain types of cancer. Some easy swaps — use wild or brown rice instead of white, replace whole wheat flour where a recipe calls for white flour and use oats in lieu of bread crumbs.
Boost your vegetable intake. Vegetables add flavor, texture, color and nutrients. Be creative and use vegetable broth instead of water to cook grains, pasta or rice; finely dice or grate some vegetables (like carrot) into your hamburger meat; mix some steamed cauliflower into mashed potatoes; add spinach and
fresh tomatoes to baked ziti; or shred some zucchini, carrots or bananas into your favorite muffin recipe.
Think in color. The best way to ensure that you're getting the vitamins, minerals and nutrients you need is by eating a variety of colorful foods. Each color contains unique phytochemicals that offer specific health benefits. Plus, a colorful plate is a more appetizing plate. Spruce up neutral sides like rice, potatoes, couscous and pasta with a variety of vegetables, greens and fresh herbs or protein-rich beans or legumes such as edamame. Prepare a plate of colorful fruits and vegetables for everyone to snack on when they get home or leave it out after dinner and you’ll be amazed how quickly it goes. Introduce a new one each week to encourage variety and expand your family’s palates.
Use healthier oils. Oils like olive, avocado, sunflower, walnut, canola and pumpkin seed are rich in healthy mono and polyunsaturated fats, omega-3s and omega-6 fatty acids, as well as antioxidants that contribute to good nutrition, reduced LDL cholesterol and reduced risk of heart and cardiovascular disease (FDA; American Heart Association). Healthy fats are also essential for your body to absorb the fat-soluble vitamins, minerals and antioxidants found in vegetables and leafy greens, so don’t be afraid to dress your salad or add that side of avocado. Try to limit your use of saturated fats (butter, coconut, palm oil) and use a variety of plant-based oils to broaden the types of beneficial fatty acids you consume.
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HAVING T WO WORKING parents is pretty much the norm these days. Somehow the world has adjusted to having two parents on a 9-5 schedule (give or take). The problem arises when it comes to dinner. What exactly do people eat when they love food, but both work full time? My style of cooking straddles the fine line between convenience and flavor, sometimes tipping further to one side than the other. While many people who work full time can’t survive without the Instant Pot or slow cooker, I tend to veer away from that direction. When you use these tools, it’s difficult to gauge when something is overcooked (or undercooked!) if you aren’t home to control the environment. (AKA I am a control freak who hates mushy, tasteless food.) I believe in preparing a little bit the night before (or in the morning, if time allows) to create something wonderful for the next day so that when I get home, the only thing left to do is pop whatever I’ve prepared into the oven. Once the kids are in bed, I can prepare a bit for tomorrow’s dinner.
THE MORE THE MERRIER If something freezes particularly well, we will usually double a recipe and stick half in the freezer for a rainy day. TAKEOUT At least once a week we order takeout — a night off for easy, comforting food because everyone needs a break every once in a while. If there’s no takeout near you, this can just mean an easy, no-brainer night like eggs, frozen pizza, fish sticks or anything else that requires no preparation time and little effort. TRY NEW THINGS We’re always up for trying out a new ingredient or new flavor profile. A new recipe requires time and effort versus a tried-andtrue recipe that is easier to remember and prepare. Perhaps these new recipes will become your favorites but until they do, if you have a busy schedule, try and schedule a new recipe once a week. If that’s too ambitious, plan for once a month (Rosh Chodesh could be a good time for that). We like to take inspiration and familiarize ourselves with flavors from all over the world from the comfort of our own home.
S U N D A Y M O N D A Y T U E S D A Y
PREPARATION Dinner must have some component that can be prepared beforehand, like a marinade, freezer stock or even just pre-sliced and diced vegetables to make the process smoother.
W E D N E S D A Y
MENU PLANNING This is the key to success for any working family like ours. The weeks we fail to plan, even if we are eating pasta and cereal every single night, we end up without ingredients and think about dinner when it’s already late. Meltdowns, from both the young and old, tend to ensue. This is why we sit down every Saturday night and menu plan for the week. Once we have the menu, we create a rough shopping list. We also write up the menu (rough draft) and keep it in a public space.
T H U R S D A Y
Dinners in my house follow a few cardinal rules:
Sample Weekly Menu DINNER
DINNER PREP FOR TOMORROW
L E F TOV E RS F RO M S H A B B OS (O R TA K EOUT)
M A R I N AT E CHICKEN
P E RU V I A N CHICKEN AND RICE WITH AJI VERDE
MAKE BERBERE SPICE
CONGEE WITH L E F TOV E R P E RU V I A N CHICKEN AND RICE
M A R I N AT E LO N D O N B RO I L
BERBERE LO N D O N B RO I L A N D P OTATO E S
P R E PA R E M E D I T E R R ANEAN LAMB M I XT U R E FO R N E XT W E E K
TIBS SLICED ST E A K SA N D WICHES
P R E PA R E S H E P H E R D’S P I E FO R N E XT WEEK OR A R A I N Y DAY
MAKE AJI VERDE
CHOP A SA L A D
The recipes I’ve chosen to share are variations of favorites we love because they fit all the categories above. Also, because they are winners — like truly solid winners that are good enough to make over and over again.
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DINNER STRATEGY
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DINNER STRATEGY
Mediterranean Lamb Fillo Flatbread Serves: 4
Mediterranean flavors are clean and simple but still manage to hit every single flavor note. It’s why I like to keep at least one batch of the meat mixture in the freezer for a weeknight or Shabbos. Note: If you don’t like lamb, feel free to use ground beef. Fillo is very delicate and can be tedious to work with, but don’t be intimidated — a tear or two is okay, just handle it gently. You can use puff pastry or store bought flatbread or pizza dough if you are feeling a little lazy.
1 1 3 2 1 ½ ½ ½ ½ 1 2 1 ¼ 1 ½
¼
tablespoon oil onion, diced cloves garlic, minced teaspoons cumin teaspoon paprika teaspoon red pepper flakes teaspoon allspice teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon sumac pound ground lamb tablespoons tomato paste tablespoon flour cup red wine teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup toasted pine nuts, lightly crushed
1
½ ¼
(16-ounce) package fillo dough (such as Apollo) cup non-dairy butter substitute, melted cup black sesame seeds, for garnish Hummus, for serving Mediterranean Tomato Salsa (recipe follows), for serving Fresh mint, for serving
1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté another minute, then add spices and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds more. Add lamb and cook until browned. 2. Make a well in the center of the pan and add tomato paste. Stir it around a bit before combining it with the lamb, then add the flour and stir to incorporate. Add wine, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Reduce for about 3-5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and fold in the pine nuts. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a clean surface with parchment paper and lay a sheet of fillo dough on top. Cover remaining fillo sheets with a damp towel while you work. Brush fillo sheet with butter, then top with another fillo sheet and brush with butter. Repeat until you have 5-7 sheets stacked on top of
one another. Cook for 15-20 minutes, until lightly golden brown. 4. Top fillo with hummus and cooked lamb mixture. Serve with Mediterranean Tomato Salsa and fresh mint.
Mediterranean Tomato Salsa Toss 2 diced plum tomatoes, ¼ cup diced red onion, ½ teaspoon sumac, 2 tablespoons torn mint, 2 tablespoons torn dill and 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil.
OTHER OPTIONS: LAMB APPETIZER TRIANGLES:
After layering the fillo sheets, cut them into strips and add 1-2 tablespoons of the meat mixture to the base. Fold in an upward diagonal direction to create a triangle. Then fold in the opposite direction so that the open side gets covered. Continue folding until the strip of fillo is finished, keeping the seam on the bottom. Brush with non-dairy butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired. Cook for 20-25 minutes at 350°F. HUMMUS BASSAR: Skip the fillo and simply serve the meat mixture over hummus with the Mediterranean Tomato Salsa and toasted pita or challah bread.
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DINNER STRATEGY
Peruvian Chicken and Rice Serves: 4
This sounds really fancy, but it’s a super simple marinated and roasted chicken. Classic Peruvian chicken is roasted over a rotisserie or spit, but since we’re talking about making a recipe at home and not a hole in the yard, I prefer to use a chicken that has the backbone removed (also called spatchcocked or butterflied), which the butcher can prepare for you. This increases the surface area of the skin for a crispy exterior and moist interior.
1
¼ 2 6 2 2 2 1 1 ½
(3-pound) whole butterflied chicken cup soy sauce tablespoons lime juice cloves garlic, smashed tablespoons olive oil teaspoons paprika teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon cumin teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Aji Verde, for serving (recipe follows) Oven-Baked Rice (recipe page 56)
1. Place chicken into a large Ziploc bag and add the remaining ingredients. Marinate for 8 hours and up to 24 hours, flipping halfway through. 2. Preheat oven to 425°F. Place chicken on a large sheet pan and cook for 1 hour, until
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the internal temperature reaches 165°F. Serve with Aji Verde and rice. TO F R E E Z E :
Once the chicken is in the Ziploc bag with the marinade, freeze it for up to 3 months. When ready to use, defrost in the refrigerator for 24 hours, then cook as directed.
Aji Verde The bright flavors of this sauce complement roasted chicken, meat or fish perfectly. Blend ½ cup romaine lettuce, ¼ cup cilantro, 6 jalapeños, 5 tablespoons nutritional yeast, 2 tablespoons roasted peanuts or cashews, 2 scallions, 2 tablespoons mayonnaise, 2 teaspoons kosher salt and the juice of 1 lime. Refrigerate in a sealed container for up to 1 month.
LEF TOVERS
Chicken Congee Congee is a Chinese rice porridge that is served with various savory toppings and is an incredible blank canvas for leftovers. Add 2 cups cooked rice, 8 cups chicken stock, a 1-inch knob of peeled ginger, sliced into planks, and 4 cloves of minced garlic to a pot. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30-60 minutes, until the mixture becomes porridge-like. Discard ginger. Serve congee in bowls topped with a dash of soy sauce, soft boiled eggs, minced scallions and shredded Peruvian chicken. Drizzle aji verde sauce on top.
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DINNER STRATEGY
UVIAN PER
AJI
CHICK EN
E VERD
EN ICK CH
CONGEE NOVEMBER 2020
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DINNER STRATEGY
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DINNER STRATEGY
LEF TOVERS
Berbere London Broil
Tibs is a classic Ethiopian stir fry style dish made with tomatoes, onions, meat and berbere spice. This sandwich is inspired by that but with a more modern and fresh approach. Add thinly sliced leftover beef to a bowl with some red wine or beef stock and berbere spice. Spread a warm laffa with hummus and top with the beef, thinly sliced jalapeños, tomatoes, red onion and baby spinach.
Serves: 6-8
Ethiopian food doesn’t get enough love. Actually, all African food needs some love and attention. Berbere, not to be confused with the disease beriberi, is a super underrated Ethiopian spice. It’s a bit spicy with some beautiful warm notes from cardamom, cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg. I decided to use it as simply as possible so that the flavors really shine. The result is a beautifully cooked, perfectly flavored piece of meat. Shifra's Note: Shushy's original recipe (pictured on the opposite page) was made using shoulder roast. For a more approachable cut of meat for a weeknight dinner, we used London broil. 3
T
3 1 ½
IB BS
TI BB S,
OH YES
2 2
tablespoons berbere spice mix (recipe follows) tablespoons dark brown sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (1½-pound) London broils tablespoons olive oil Flaky salt, for garnish
ANT TIBB , SERGE S.
1. Preheat oven to broil. Combine berbere, brown sugar, salt and pepper and rub over the meat to cover all surfaces, then rub it all over with oil. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes.
Roasted Potatoes Preheat oven to 400°F. Slice 6 Yukon gold potatoes in half vertically and toss potatoes with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Arrange cut side down on a metal baking sheet. Roast potatoes for 30-40 minutes, until fork tender.
Berbere Spice Mix If you can’t find berbere spice mix, just make your own! If you are looking to buy it, Frontier brand is an excellent version and can be found at Target, Whole Foods or Amazon. 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ ½
tablespoons paprika tablespoon cayenne pepper teaspoon onion powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon coriander teaspoon ginger teaspoon cardamom teaspoon fenugreek or ground mustard teaspoon nutmeg teaspoon allspice teaspoon cloves
Combine spices and store in a sealed container for up to 3 months.
2. Broil for 8 minutes per side. Let rest for 15 minutes, then slice and serve alongside the potatoes. Garnish with flaky salt. TO F R E E Z E :
After rubbing the meat with the spices and oil, place it into a freezer-safe Ziploc bag and freeze for up to 4 months. When ready to use, defrost in the refrigerator for 24 hours, then cook as directed. NOVEMBER 2020
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Colonize your tastebuds.
Curried Shepherd’s Pie Serves: 6
The traditional English dish gets an Indian upgrade. Fun fact: When Britain settled in India, they left several culinary influences, so this recipe is inspired by those cultures. I love this dish because it’s all sorts of comforting with a bunch of delicious flavors. Plus, this recipe makes a lot and freezes wonderfully. Note: Instead of one big shepherd’s pie, cook in individual ramekins or even mini pie shells for a more dramatic presentation, just reduce cook time to about 25-30 minutes.
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7 ½ ¼ ¼ 1 1 3
medium sweet potatoes teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice teaspoon cardamom tablespoon oil large onion, diced cloves garlic, minced
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1 1 1 1 1 ½
½ 2 2 ½ ½ 2
pound ground beef tablespoon curry powder teaspoon turmeric teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon garlic powder stalks celery, diced large carrots, diced cup chicken broth cup coconut milk cups frozen peas
1. Pierce sweet potatoes with a fork and microwave on high for about 5 minutes until fork tender. Alternatively, cook in a 400°F oven for about 1 hour. 2. Mash the flesh of 5 sweet potatoes with cinnamon, allspice and cardamom and set aside. Mash the remaining 2 sweet potatoes and reserve for topping. For a smoother, creamier texture, use an immersion blender.
dium heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 3-5 minutes, then add garlic and sauté another minute until fragrant. Add ground beef, curry powder, turmeric, ginger, salt, pepper and garlic powder. Cook for 5 minutes. 4. Add celery, carrots, broth, coconut milk and spiced sweet potato mixture. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Allow the mixture to reduce by one third, then add the peas. 5. Transfer mixture to an oven safe dish, top with remaining sweet potato flesh and spread it until smooth. Place dish on a baking sheet to prevent spillage and cook for 40-45 minutes, until the surface is golden. TO F R E E Z E :
Before cooking, cover the dish with foil and freeze for up to 3 months. Cook straight from the freezer, allowing an additional 1520 minutes of cook time.
3. Add oil to a large sauté pan over me-
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M
S
O
W
L
M
U
B
U
LUNCH TIME AT work is more than just a meal for me. It’s literally the only chance I have to take a breath in the chaos of the day, sit down, think about my kids and collect my thoughts. As a nurse practitioner, my day can be hectic and sometimes I find that I don’t actually eat until my lunch break. Don’t get me wrong, there are times on a busy day when all I wish for is a soggy tuna sandwich that I can scarf down in three bites. But on days where I know I have an amazing, thought out, homemade lunch waiting for me — those days are the bomb. My general rule for lunch is that it has to be something that I can make in advance that won’t be gross by the time I eat it and something I can eat over and over again. Plus, it must contain a protein, a carbohydrate and plenty of vegetables — energy is key and carb crashes are not my favorite thing of all time.
H
L U N C
Here I provide my go-to “recipes” though they aren’t necessarily recipes, rather frameworks. Kind of like a choose-your-ownadventure (or choose-your-fighter if you were born after 1995). If you vary each component based on what you have on hand, you will have enough ideas to keep your lunch fresh and different every week of the year. If you meal plan for dinner, you'll always have something ready to take for lunch too. I set myself up for one or two of these varieties per week and keep it interesting by changing it up just a bit every day.
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My bowls are usually like giant salads with the addition of some grains. The cool thing is that the dressings (which can also be used as marinades) can be doubled or tripled and kept in the fridge for at least 2-3 weeks. H U M M U S B OW L
Couscous
Sushi rice
Hummus
Asian Marinated Tofu
Schug Amba Chicken Roasted eggplant Olives
36
AS I A N B OW L
K A L E CA E SA R
Quinoa
Haricot vert
Kale
Broccoli
Roasted sweet potatoes
Avocado
Bok choy
Cucumber
Snow peas
Corn
Soft boiled eggs
Shredded cabbage
Curry Cauliflower
Miso Maple Dressing
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MEAN & GREEN
Mixed greens
NOVEMBER 2020
Roasted sweet potatoes Lemon Horseradish Dressing
Avocado Faux Caesar Dressing Cucumber Soft boiled eggs Pistachios Pomegranate seeds or blueberries Croutons
D R E SS I N GS
Faux Caesar, Miso Maple, Lemon Horseradish P ROT E I N S
Soft Boiled Eggs, Amba Chicken, Marinated Tofu CA R B S
Quinoa, Rice, Sweet Potatoes GREENS
Kale Chiffonade, Baby Spinach, Mixed Greens E XT R AS
Roasted Cauliflower, Roasted Eggplant, Croutons, Pomegranate Seeds, Pistachios
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LUNCH STRATEGY
Faux Caesar Dressing
Amba Chicken
Yield: ¾ cup
Serves: 6
⅓ 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 ½ ¼
cup oil tablespoon miso paste tablespoon mayonnaise tablespoon Dijon mustard tablespoon nutritional yeast tablespoon pickle or caper juice tablespoon honey cloves garlic Juice of ½ lemon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Whisk or blend all ingredients together until smooth, thinning with water if desired. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.
Miso Maple Dressing Yield: ¾ cup
¼ 3 2 2 1 ½ 1 ½
cup olive oil tablespoons maple syrup tablespoons miso paste tablespoons rice vinegar tablespoon soy sauce teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Whisk or blend all ingredients together until smooth. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
Lemon Horseradish Dressing Yield: ½ cup
¼ 1 2 1 ½
cup olive oil Juice of 1 lemon tablespoon white horseradish teaspoons honey teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Whisk or blend all ingredients together until smooth. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
6 1 2 ½ ⅓ 3 2 1 ½
boneless, skinless chicken breasts onion, sliced cloves garlic, minced cup amba sauce cup water tablespoons honey tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Place chicken, onions and garlic in a Ziploc bag. Whisk remaining ingredients in a bowl until combined, then pour over chicken; let marinate in the refrigerator for 2-8 hours (or freeze until ready to cook). 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Transfer chicken and onions to a baking sheet and cook for 25-30 minutes, until golden brown and an internal temperature of 135-140°F is reached. Allow to cool for 15 minutes before slicing. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Asian Marinated Tofu
Curried Cauliflower Steaks Serves: 4
1
head cauliflower, sliced lengthwise into steaks
¼
cup olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons, divided
2
tablespoons curry powder
teaspoon kosher salt
1
½
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss cauliflower steaks with olive oil, the juice of 1 lemon, curry powder, salt and pepper and place on a baking sheet in a single layer. 2. Roast for 25-30 minutes, until golden and crispy. Drizzle with remaining lemon juice immediately after removing from oven.
Roasted Eggplant
1
eggplant, diced
1
teaspoon kosher salt
Olive oil, as needed
Serves: 2
3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange egg-
¼ 1 ½ 1
plant on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
cup hoisin sauce teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon chili flakes (15.5-ounce) container firm tofu, drained and pressed
1. Combine hoisin, sesame oil and chili flakes in a glass dish. Cut tofu into planks, pat dry and add to marinade for 2-12 hours. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Transfer tofu to a parchment-lined baking sheet and cook for 25 minutes, until crispy. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Soft Boiled Eggs Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil and prepare a bowl with ice water. Add 1 teaspoon kosher salt and desired amount of eggs to the pot, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 7 minutes. Transfer eggs to the bowl of water using a slotted spoon. Peel once cool enough to handle.
Sprinkle with salt and allow to sit for 15-20 minutes, until moisture beads on the surface of the eggplant. 4. Pat dry and drizzle generously with olive oil. Cook for 25-30 minutes, until eggplant is golden brown.
Roasted Sweet Potatoes 4
sweet potatoes, diced
1
tablespoon olive oil
1
tablespoon brown sugar
2
teaspoons kosher salt
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss sweet potatoes with olive oil, brown sugar and salt and arrange on a parchment-lined baking sheet in a single layer. 2. Roast for 30-35 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are fork tender.
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LUNCH STRATEGY
Sandwich maker make me a match CA L I FO R N I A
SANDWICHES CAN BE the ultimate lunch or a total dud. The dud comes from not layering the sandwich properly, which is how you end up with a soggy sandwich that tastes like a wet sponge. First you need good quality bread, then a barrier like some crisp lettuce, followed by a sauce, protein and whatever extras you’re adding. Finally, wrap it up nicely in parchment paper and tuck it into a container (not a bag — it’ll get smushed).
Pick and choose from the options below to make your own!
Whole Grain Seeded Roll Sliced Deli Turkey Avocado Jalapeño Sprouts Hummus Kale PA N BAG N AT
BREAD
whole grain seeded roll, brioche, sesame bun or bagel P ROT E I N
soft boiled eggs, hummus, sliced deli turkey, amba chicken, tuna in oil SAU C E
hummus, schug, mayonnaise, faux Caesar, fig jam, harissa GREENS
arugula, sprouts, baby gem lettuce, baby spinach, herbs, kale E XT R AS
avocado, jalapeños, pickles, tomatoes, onion, potato chips, roasted red peppers, kimchi
Baguette Tuna in Oil Parsley Roasted Red Peppers Sliced Red Onion Kalamata Olives Sliced Lemon Harissa EG G SA N DW I C H
Pumpernickel Bread Soft Boiled Eggs Faux Caesar Dijon Mustard Capers Arugula C H I C K E N SA N DW I C H
Sesame Bagel Schug Baby Spinach Amba Chicken Hummus Soft Boiled Eggs Parsley Israeli Pickles Roasted Eggplant Curry Cauliflower
Shushy Turin (née Shine) is a full-time nurse practitioner by day, food blogger and recipe developer by night. Shushy is passionate about finding flavor bomb ingredients and using them in as many ways as possible. She also loves learning and incorporating techniques from all over the world into her cooking. She lives in New Jersey with her husband Ben and their three children. Find her on Instagram @cookinginheelss and on her blog www.cookinginheels.squarespace.com. 38
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We love the acidic, complex flavor of amba, but feel free to replace with any condiment and cook according to recipe instructions (page 37). Barbecue sauce, honey mustard, harissa and teriyaki sauce are just a few examples.
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VEGETARIAN DINNERS
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VEGETARIAN DINNERS
It’s never been easier to eat better.
OUR APPROACH TO vegetarian food is to impart as much flavor as possible into the dishes that we make. We strive to show that vegetarian and vegan food is not boring, rather really delicious and flavorful and can easily go beyond steamed vegetables and pasta. Since moving to the US over 25 years ago, we’ve explored all different types of cuisines that have influenced our cooking and we’re constantly learning how to incorporate bright flavors, new ingredients and exotic spices into the dishes that we create.
Having been raised in Barcelona, Spain by Jewish Lebanese-Syrian parents, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food has always been a source of comfort to us. Sweet, tart pomegranate molasses, earthy za'atar, nutty tahini, warm baharat spice, sweet silan, tangy sumac and floral orange blossom and rose waters are some of the Middle Eastern staples that we know best and love. In addition to our well stocked Middle Eastern pantry, you will always find a healthy variety of seasonal fruits and vegetables and a pantry stocked with canned and dried beans, bulgur wheat, rice, grains and quinoa.
VEGAN PANTRY BASICS: POMEGRANATES: Pomegranates, when in season, are part of so many of our recipes, from salads and stews to desserts. TAHINI: Tahini is an excellent ingredient for both sweet and savory dishes, like homemade hummus, dressings and sauces. LEMONS: Freshly squeezed lemon juice brightens any dish, sauce or dressing. SPICES: We love cooking with spices and we always have paprika, turmeric, coriander, cumin, za'atar and sumac stocked in the pantry. HOMEMADE SCHUG: We make our own version of this spicy pepper paste with parsley, cilantro, jalapeños and spices. It’s truly multi-purpose; add it to salads, dips, hummus, sandwiches and wraps. SILAN: We like to buy silan (date syrup) that has no added sugar and is made with 100% dates. We use it in dressing, sauces and desserts and it’s divine when swirled into tahini. NUTS AND SEEDS: Pistachios, cashews, walnuts, hazelnuts, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds are always stocked to add to salads, rice, quinoa, desserts and yogurt. CANNED COCONUT MILK: Coconut milk adds beautiful creaminess to dishes without the dairy. HERBS AND FLAVOR BOMBS: We also always have fresh cilantro, parsley, ginger and lemongrass to add fresh pops of flavor to any dish.
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VEGETARIAN DINNERS
Chickpea and Pepper Shakshuka Reprinted with permission from Tahini & Turmeric Serves: 4
Every year, our great-uncle Robert would visit us from Israel. He loved Barcelona, touring the city and the surrounding beach towns and he would often take us with him on his daily excursions. One of his favorite dishes was shakshuka; one of our fondest memories of him is waking up to the delicious smell of garlicky, rich tomato sauce, ready to be soaked up with crunchy, crusty fresh bread. Our version of this Israeli breakfast uses chickpeas rather than eggs as the main source of protein; slices of cooked polenta add creaminess and make it visually similar to the traditional recipe. Note: The shakshuka base can be prepared 2 or 3 days ahead of time and kept refrigerated. It can also be frozen for up to 1 month. When ready to serve, bring to a simmer, add the polenta slices and continue simmering for 5 minutes. 2
1 1 1
1
1 ½ ¼ 6 1 1 ½ 2 ¾ ½
tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil large sweet onion, thinly sliced red bell pepper, seeded and diced orange bell pepper, seeded and diced yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced teaspoon sweet paprika teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander slices pre-cooked polenta (sold in a tube) (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (15-ounce) can chickpeas cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large 12-inch nonstick skillet with a lid. Add the onion, bell peppers, paprika, cumin and coriander and cook, uncovered, over mediumlow heat, stirring often, for 30 minutes, or until the peppers are tender. 2. In the meantime, heat the remaining 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a separate large, nonstick skillet. Add polenta slices and cook over medium heat for 1 minute, or until they brown lightly. Carefully flip the slices, then cook for another minute. Re44
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move from heat and set aside. 3. Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, cilantro, crushed garlic, salt and Aleppo pepper to the bell pepper mixture. Cover the skillet and continue cooking for another 15 minutes, until the sauce starts to reduce. 4. Carefully arrange the polenta slices over the tomato mixture and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. 5. Serve warm with crusty bread and cilantro.
Hearty Beet and Chickpea Meatballs Adapted from Tahini & Turmeric Serves: 6
This recipe is a take on a peas, carrots and meatball dish our mom makes often on Friday nights. The combination of baharat and cinnamon makes for a very unique flavor profile that blends beautifully with the sweetness of the peas and carrots. The beet and chickpea meatballs are so hearty and flavorful — the meat is not at all missed. Tip: If you prefer not to pan fry them, the meatballs can also be cooked in the oven. Generously grease a mini muffin pan, scoop about 1½ tablespoons of the mixture into each well and cook at 400°F for 20-25 minutes. Shifra’s Note: We love the family-friendly aspect of the peas and carrots but adapted the recipe for this issue with butternut squash and leeks, elevating it slightly and showcasing its versatility. Use whatever vegetables you have on hand.
MEATBALLS:
1
(15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed ¾ cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 medium-sized roasted beets (recipe follows) or store-bought cooked beets 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup flour (any kind will work here) ¼ cup neutral-flavored oil (such as sunflower, avocado or grapeseed), for pan frying 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 leeks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
2 4 1 ¾ ½ 2 2
cloves garlic, minced cups diced butternut squash teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon baharat or ground allspice teaspoon ground cinnamon sprigs thyme (optional) cups vegetable or chicken stock
1. Place chickpeas in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl, add the chopped cilantro and set aside. 2. Place cooked beets, lemon juice, turmeric, Aleppo pepper, cumin and salt in the food processor and process until smooth. Add the mixture to the chopped chickpeas, then add flour and mix well. Let it sit in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. 3. Working with 1½ tablespoons at a time, form about two dozen meatballs (we like using a small ice cream scoop so they’re equal in size). 4. Heat oil in a small saucepan. Add 2-3 meatballs at a time and cook them over medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes per side or until they start to brown. (Make sure the oil doesn’t get too hot, because the sugar in the beets will burn easily.) Set aside. 5. Heat olive oil in a large deep sauté pan with a lid. Add leeks and sauté over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, until translucent. Add garlic and cook for another 2 minutes. Add butternut squash, salt, baharat, cinnamon and thyme and stir well. Add stock and bring to a boil. 6. Reduce heat to low and cover the pan. Cook for 45 minutes or until the squash is tender. Gently add meatballs and continue to cook for another 15 minutes.
ROASTED BEETS Preheat oven to 375°F. Wrap each beet in aluminum foil. Place on a baking sheet and cook for 1 hour, until tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from the oven and let cool until safe to handle with your hands. Once cooled, remove skin and slice beets.
TIPS: • Roasted beets can be prepared ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to three days. • Make a few extra beets to have on hand for a quick addition to salads. • Wear gloves while peeling! www.fleishigs.com
Vicky Cohen and Ruth Fox are sisters who were raised in Barcelona by Syrian-Lebanese Jewish parents. Now living in New Jersey, they created the blog May I have That Recipe, which showcases vegetarian and vegan recipes with global influences. In 2018, Vicky and Ruth co-authored Tahini & Turmeric, a cookbook filled with tempting, healthy vegan dishes that will take you beyond the conventional and recognizable Middle Eastern staples of babaghanoush and baklava. Instead, you’ll find modern, lighter dishes bursting with flavor.
STAFF DINNERS
Grilled Chicken, Fennel and Apple Salad Serves: 2-4
By: Schneur Menaker
There’s nothing better than a big salad, which can act as a filling lunch or a light dinner. If you can't find adobo seasoning, use cajun seasoning or your favorite allpurpose spice blend.
FOR THE GRILLED CHICKEN: 2 1 2 1
(4-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded thin tablespoon adobo seasoning tablespoons olive oil teaspoon vinegar
FOR THE SALAD: 2 1 ½ ½ 1 3 1 1 1 2 ½
cups baby arugula cup micro sprouts yellow pepper, julienned fennel bulb, julienned cucumber, thinly sliced into half moons radishes, thinly sliced into half moons Fuji apple, finely diced carrot, shredded avocado, sliced scallions, thinly sliced cup blueberries Shelled hemp seeds, sunflower seeds or slivered almonds Falafel-flavored crunchy chickpeas (such as Saffron Road)
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
¼ ¼ ½ ¼
cup avocado oil cup lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Season chicken with adobo spice, oil and vinegar. Marinate for 30 minutes, then grill for 4-6 minutes per side. 2. Arrange arugula and sprouts on a platter and top with remaining salad ingredients. Instead of drizzling the vinaigrette over the salad, you can make the salad in a container, add the dressing, cover and shake to coat. The avocado will emulsify with the dressing and add a creamy texture.
3. Combine oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and drizzle over salad.
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STAFF DINNERS
Sheet Pan Chicken Serves: 4
By: Shifra Klein
This is my go-to recipe. It takes minutes to assemble, utilizes basic ingredients that I usually have on hand and is ready in under an hour. Once you nail the technique, feel free to customize with whatever you have available (see below for suggestions). 4 3 1 ½
1
1 3
bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs tablespoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Spanish onion, sliced into wedges (16-ounce) bag frozen broccoli Yukon gold potatoes, cut into wedges
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Rub chicken with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a large sheet pan with onion, broccoli and potatoes, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. 2. Roast for 45 minutes, until chicken is cooked through.
VARIATIONS • Add your favorite spice rub to the chicken. • Vary vegetables to use what you have on hand. Sweet potatoes, carrots, fennel and cabbage all work wonderfully. • Once chicken is done, transfer vegetables to a plate and turn oven to broil. Brush barbecue sauce, honey mustard or sweet chili sauce over the chicken and broil for 5 minutes to create a glazed, sticky chicken. • In place of thighs, use bone-in, skinon chicken breasts. They are lighter than thighs, but the skin and bone help yield a juicy result. Roast for 35 minutes instead of 45 minutes.
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STAFF DINNERS
Mielie Pap with Sausages and Gravy Serves: 4-6
By: Shlomo Klein
Mielie pap is a traditional South African dish, similar to polenta or grits, made from cornmeal. If you’ve been following us on Instagram for long enough, you’d know that this is my go-to meal, both for dairy (I like to add my own spin with truffle salt, truffle oil and Parmesan cheese), but especially for meat with good quality sausages and tomato gravy. What sets this gravy apart is the addition of vinegar and sugar, which balances the peppery notes of the sauce perfectly.
FOR THE MIELIE PAP:
4 ½ 1 2 ½
cups water cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute cup cornmeal teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SAUSAGES: 4 1
sausages, preferably South African boerewors tablespoon oil
FOR THE TOMATO GRAVY:
2 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 3
tablespoons canola oil large onion, diced tomato, diced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (6-ounce) can tomato paste (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes tablespoons white vinegar tablespoons sugar
1. To make the mielie pap, bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan, then add non-dairy butter. Once melted, add cornmeal and whisk continuously. Alternatively, when it starts to thicken, blend with an immersion blender. Lower heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. 2. To make the sausages, heat oil in a pan over medium high heat. Add sausages and cook for 4 minutes per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Alternatively, you can grill or cook in the oven at 400°F until done. 3. To make the tomato gravy, heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add diced onions and tomatoes and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, vinegar and sugar. Thin with 3 tablespoons of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes, until sauce thickens. 4. Spoon mielie pap into bowls and top with tomato gravy. Serve sausages alongside.
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STAFF DINNERS
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STAFF DINNERS
Pumpkin Tempeh Chili Serves: 4
By: Elisheva Taitz
A few years ago, I decided to add some canned pumpkin to my tempeh chili out of sheer desire to use up the Thanksgiving surplus and it quickly turned into a dinner staple. Besides being rich in flavor, the tempeh (a fermented soy product) adds an extraordinary texture — you won’t miss the meat. This take on a comfort food classic will surely elevate your Meatless Mondays. Note: In place of tempeh, feel free to use ground turkey or beef. 3 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 ½
1
tablespoons olive oil large onion, diced cloves garlic, minced (8-ounce) package tempeh, crumbled tablespoon cumin tablespoon smoked paprika teaspoons cinnamon teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon onion powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste teaspoon chili powder
3 1
1
1
1
2
tablespoons tomato paste (15-ounce) can pumpkin purée (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed (15-ounce) can small white beans or garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed cups vegetable broth or water Tortilla chips, pickled onions, diced avocado and cilantro, for serving
1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add garlic, tempeh and spices and sauté another minute, until fragrant. Add tomato paste and stir to combine. 2. Add pumpkin purée, diced tomatoes, beans and broth. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Add more broth or water, if needed, to achieve desired consistency. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste. 3. Garnish with pickled onions, diced avocado and cilantro.
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STAFF DINNERS
Miso-Glazed Salmon Rice Bowl Serves: 4
By: Chana Zelda Weiss
Salmon is one of the easiest, most foolproof proteins to cook. It doesn’t need to be cooked as long as you may think; gently press down on the top of the fish to check for doneness. If it begins to flake easily, it’s ready. 2 2 2 1 1 1-2 1 4 2
1
tablespoons miso paste tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons rice vinegar tablespoon honey tablespoon gochujang, optional teaspoons freshly grated ginger clove garlic, minced (6-ounce) salmon filets cups basmati rice, cooked according to package directions or oven-baked per directions below ripe avocado, sliced Quick Pickled Vegetables (recipe follows) Ginger Scallion Topping (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine miso, soy sauce, rice vinegar, honey, gochujang, ginger and garlic in a small bowl. Place salmon into a small baking dish and coat with miso glaze. Cook for 1618 minutes, or until just cooked through. 2. To serve, spoon rice into individual shallow bowls or onto a large platter. Top with salmon, sliced avocado, Quick Pickled Vegetables (spoon some of the liquid over the rice as well) and Ginger Scallion Topping.
Oven-Baked Rice Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine 2 cups basmati rice and 4 cups boiling water in an oven-safe (preferably glass) dish, cover tightly and cook for 21-23 minutes, until water is absorbed. Let rice sit covered for 10 minutes, then uncover and fluff.
Quick Pickled Vegetables Combine ¼ cup vinegar, ¼ cup water, 1 tablespoon kosher salt and 1½ teaspoons sugar until dissolved. Add 1 thinly sliced English cucumber, 2-3 thinly sliced radishes and 1 thinly sliced carrot; mix to make sure vegetables are submerged. Let sit for 10 minutes.
Ginger Scallion Topping
Combine 1 cup thinly sliced scallions, ¼ cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger, 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds.
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L'CHAIM
ELEVATE WEEKNIGHT DINNERS
Since this is the dinner issue, we wanted to share some affordable wine choices that could elevate a casual weeknight dinner with panache. They are all within the $15-$35 range and have great QPR (quality-price ratio).
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VITKIN ISRAELI JOURNEY WHITE 2019
CHÂTEAU FOURCAS DUPRÉ LISTRACMÉDOC 2017
PSAGOT GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2019
HERZOG LINEAGE PINOT NOIR 2018
ELVI HERENZA CRIANZA RIOJA 2017
This Mediterranean blend never disappoints. Assaf Paz, head winemaker at Vitkin, was trained in France, where the culture is to enjoy a glass of wine with both lunch and dinner. This is how he crafts his wines — to be enjoyed with food. The Vitkin Israeli Journey White is medium-bodied with notes of floral, citrus and stone fruit. It would be best enjoyed with a light dinner like Sheet Pan Chicken (page 50).
This is a mediumbodied red Bordeaux with classic earthy and tamed black fruit notes, perfect with a cut of quality meat like Berbere London Broil (page 31).
This beautifully balanced wine pairs perfectly with Chickpea and Pepper Shakshuka (page 44), which is mildly spicy and requires a wine that has both refreshing acidity and subtle sweetness, as well as an aromatic tropical fruit profile.
This medium-bodied Pinot Noir boasts delicate notes of red fruit and dried flowers and pairs well with Miso-Glazed Salmon (page 56). While fish is most often paired with white wine, salmon — especially with miso — has the body to stand up to red wine like this one.
Rioja wines are robust, yet not over the top. This Elvi Crianza has a great complex palette of aromas with rich fruits, spices, vanilla and a perfectly balanced acidity to pair with a dish like Pepper Steak Tacos (page 18).
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WE TEAMED UP with Mushky Perlstein of the blog www. MyMaMenu.com to feature a full, fall-inspired menu compiled of her favorites. MaMenu was born out of Mushky’s internal love of Jewish food from weeknight dinner to Shabbos meals and everything in between. Her goal is to provide her readers, followers and community members with attainable and delicious meals inspired by her roots and travels. Mushky was born in Canada to a Moroccan mother and American father. Because of this diverse upbringing, she always loved food, but it evolved into a lifestyle while traveling the world with her husband. Settling in the Nachlaot section of Jerusalem as a newly married couple, the Machane Yehuda market was a short walk from Mushky’s apartment. The shuk became her sole source of inspiration as a new bride in a new country. She befriended vendors and shopkeepers while discovering and celebrating the freshness, beauty and amazing variety of local ingredients. From there, Mushky and her husband moved to Cape Town, South Africa. Despite the upside of Cape Town being, in her words, “the MOST beautiful place in the world,” Mushky had to once again adjust to a new country with new foods and flavors. “Everyone in
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Cape Town was so warm and welcoming. Eating Shabbat with new friends was a journey into their history and recipes,” she shares. After living in South Africa for six months, they moved to Knoxville, TN, where Mushky picked up on traditional Southern cuisine. After a year and a half, they settled in the wonderfully eclectic and diverse Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles, CA where they currently run the NELA Chabad. Fun fact about Echo Park — in 1854, a plot of land meant for Jewish burial was bought, which today has been reduced to a humble plaque just outside of Dodgers Stadium parking lot. As the communities of Eagle Rock and Echo Park grew, the Perlsteins set out to turn their Friday night dinners into unique and memorable experiences. Naturally, Mushky started with the food. The goal was to create weekly menus that were both innovative and refined, while utilizing seasonal foods and highlighting the newest in emerging kosher flavors. “I’d make a menu, my husband would design it and we’d share it on social media. Eventually, it evolved into a Facebook group, a website with recipes and an Instagram page,” she reflected. “It launched a trend of menu sharing for Shabbat and holiday dinners within our personal Chabad community and quickly spread to many Chabad houses worldwide.” Mushky’s basic process goes something like this: Early in the week, she sits down to plan her menu, then she shops by Wednesday and cooks on
How Mushky shares her menu each week.
Thursday, leaving the last minute things for Friday. Early planning ensures a more focused shopping — only buying what is needed and not much else. She always makes sure to have a fabulous cocktail or wine pairing to complement the food, fresh challah and dips, salad (usually one, sometimes two), fish, soup (seasonally), main dish, vegetable side, another side and dessert. And of course, everything is always homemade.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Recipes By Mushky Perlstein
Scallion and Sesame Beer Bread Challah
Sun-Dried Tomato and Almond Dip
Yield: 1 loaf or 10 muffins
Yield: 1 heaping cup
This is a signature MaMenu bread, which is so quick and easy to make. It’s hearty, rustic and so delicious. You can watch a video tutorial at www.mymamenu.com/post/beerbread. Omit the scallions and sesame for a plain bread or mix it up with any add-ins of your choice.
There is so much flavor packed into this dip and it will quickly become a staple on your table.
3 ¼ 1 1 1 ¼ 1 2
cups all-purpose flour cup sugar tablespoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt cup chopped scallions cup sesame seeds, divided (12-ounce) bottle of beer tablespoons oil
½ ⅓ 6 ¼ 2 2 1 1
cup sun-dried tomatoes cup toasted slivered almonds tablespoons olive oil cup nutritional yeast tablespoons water tablespoons apple cider vinegar clove garlic teaspoon kosher salt
Blend all ingredients in a food processor until smooth.
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Add scallions and 3 tablespoons sesame seeds. Slowly pour in beer and mix well to combine. It will be a wet, sticky dough. 2. Place dough in a greased loaf pan or divide into 10 wells of a muffin tin. Brush top of bread with oil and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sesame seeds. 3. Cook for 50-60 minutes for a loaf or 30 -40 minutes for the muffins, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Arugula and Peach Salad with Pickled Red Onions and Cashews Serves: 4-6
The vinaigrette truly elevates this salad. Feel free to swap out the fruit for roasted squash, if desired. 4 2 ½
cups baby arugula peaches, nectarines or apples, thinly sliced Pickled Red Onions (recipe follows) cup roasted, salted cashews Maple Bourbon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Arrange arugula on a platter and top with sliced fruit, pickled red onions and cashews. Drizzle vinaigrette over salad and serve immediately.
Pickled Red Onions By: Shifra Klein
Combine 2 thinly sliced red onions, ¼ cup sugar, ½ cup red wine vinegar, 2 teaspoons kosher salt and 1 tablespoon warm water. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
Maple Bourbon Vinaigrette Yields: ⅔ cup
Combine ½ cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons maple syrup, 1 teaspoon bourbon, 1 garlic clove, 1 teaspoon onion powder, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Sweet Dijon Trout Serves: 4
2 ½ ¼ 2 2 1 1 ¼
sides of trout (from 1 whole trout) teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons Dijon mustard tablespoons silan or maple syrup tablespoon rice vinegar tablespoon coconut aminos cup chopped parsley or cilantro, optional
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place trout on a sheet pan and season with salt and pepper. 2. Combine mustard, silan, rice vinegar and coconut aminos. Spread over fish and cook for 12 minutes. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley or cilantro, if desired.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Miso Chicken and Vegetable Soup Serves: 8
Adding miso to traditional chicken soup adds an unparalleled depth of flavor. Strain for a clear soup or serve with the vegetables and shredded chicken. To make it a full meal, serve with noodles. Either way, your guests will appreciate this new spin on a classic.
2 2 1 1 4 5 2 1 ½ 1
zucchini, cut into large chunks carrots, cut into large chunks large onion, halved (2-inch) knob fresh ginger, peeled cloves garlic tablespoons miso paste bone-in, skin-on chicken legs or breasts tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon soy sauce
1. Add zucchini, carrots, onion, ginger and garlic to an 8-quart pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Add miso to a small heat-proof bowl, pour in some of the hot liquid and whisk until incorporated. Add back into the pot. 2. Add chicken, salt and pepper and soy sauce. Cook on a rolling boil for 3-5 hours.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Sous Vide Shoulder Roast Serves: 6
1 3
(2-3-pound) shoulder roast Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Chili Lime Seasoning (like Trader Joe’s or Tajin) sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary
1. Liberally season roast with salt, pepper and chili lime seasoning. Place in a sous vide bag with thyme or rosemary. 2. Seal and cook in a sous vide at 135°F for 30 hours.
Curried Cranberry Couscous Serves: 6
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ½ ¾ ¼
(5.8-ounce) box couscous teaspoon olive oil tablespoon white wine vinegar teaspoon turmeric teaspoon curry powder teaspoon kosher salt red onion, diced cup chopped fresh parsley cup dried cranberries cup toasted almonds
1. Cook couscous according to package instructions. Add olive oil, vinegar, turmeric, curry powder and salt. Mix until well combined. 2. Add red onion, parsley, cranberries and almonds. Gently toss until combined.
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SHABBOS FEAST
Chocolate Quinoa Cake with Maple Pecan Glaze Serves: 8
This unique cake is gluten-free, but you’d never know! Trust me. ¾ cup uncooked quinoa ⅓ cup unsweetened almond milk 4 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup oil 1 cup sugar 1 cup cocoa powder 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup chocolate chips Maple Pecan Glaze (recipe follows) 1. Add quinoa to a small saucepan with 1 ½ cups water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Add almond milk, eggs and vanilla to the bowl of a food processor and blend until combined. Add 2 cups cooked quinoa and oil and blend until smooth. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add wet ingredients to dry and mix until well combined, then fold in chocolate chips. Divide batter into 2 greased cake pans or a 9x13-inch pan and bake for 30-35 minutes. Let cool, then glaze with Maple Pecan Glaze.
Maple Pecan Glaze Yield: 2 cups
Blend ¼ cup maple syrup, ¼ cup water, 2 tablespoons coconut oil, 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and ¾ cup chopped pecans. Pour glaze over cooled cake.
Pomegranate and Rosemary Gin & Tonic Yield: 1 cocktail
2 ¼ 1 4
ounces gin Juice of ½ lime cup pomegranate seeds sprig rosemary ounces tonic water
1. Fill a glass with ice. Add gin, lime juice and pomegranate seeds. 2. Place rosemary sprig in glass and top with tonic water. Stir.
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B Y: E S T H E R K A D O C H
AN ESSENTIAL PART OF MOST SHABBOS MEALS IS AN ARRAY OF DIPS. THERE IS LITERALLY NOTHING BETTER THAN FRESH, WARM CHALLAH DIPPED INTO SUPER FLAVORFUL CONDIMENTS. WE ASKED FOOD AND LIFESTYLE BLOGGER ESTHER KADOCH TO SHARE HER THREE FAVORITE DIPS.
BACK POCKET
Sweet And Spicy Eggplant Dip
Salade Cuite Yield: 3½ cups
This recipe is tried and true and yields a smooth, concentrated tomato-based dip that is packed with incredible flavor. Note: Peeling the tomatoes is essential. We recommend a tomato peeler, which can also be used for peppers and other thin-skinned fruits and vegetables, to seamlessly remove the outer skin of the tomato.
½ 4 2 1 2 2 1 10
cup oil cloves garlic, minced jalapeños, thinly sliced green bell pepper, diced tablespoons sugar tablespoons paprika teaspoon garlic powder Roma tomatoes, peeled and diced
1. Heat oil in a pot over medium-low heat. Add minced garlic, jalapeños and green pepper and sauté for 10 minutes, until vegetables are fragrant, but not browned. 2. Add sugar, paprika, garlic powder and tomatoes. Reduce heat to low and cook for 2½-3 hours, stirring occasionally.
Yields 3 ½ cups
By: Esther Kadoch
Cut down on the spice by removing the seeds and ribs from the jalapeño and replace as much of the hot sauce as you want with additional ketchup.
½ 1 3 1 ½ ½ ¼ 2 1 1
cup oil, divided eggplant, sliced into rounds onions, sliced jalapeño, sliced cup hot sauce cup ketchup cup soy sauce tablespoons rice vinegar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon granulated garlic
1. Heat ¼ cup oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Fry eggplant until golden and crispy, about 2-3 minutes per side. Set aside to cool. 2. Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in the same pan over medium heat. Add onions to the pan and sauté until softened, about 20 minutes. Add jalapeños and sauté for another 3 minutes. Return eggplant to pan. 3. Add hot sauce, ketchup, soy sauce, vinegar, salt and garlic and cook until combined.
Mushroom Onion Dip Yield: 3½ cups
By: Esther Kadoch
Not only is this a delicious dip for challah, but it also works well as a spread for deli, grilled chicken or steak sandwiches. 6 2 3 ¼ 1 ½
tablespoons oil, divided (8-ounce) containers mushrooms, diced onions, diced cup mayonnaise teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon granulated garlic
1. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and sauté for 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and discard any liquid from the pan. 2. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in the same pan over medium-high heat and sauté onions until golden, about 15-20 minutes. 3. Once cooled, combine mushrooms, onions, mayonnaise, salt and garlic.
Esther Kadoch is a lifestyle blogger who shares recipes, travel, decor and fashion tips on her vibrant, entertaining Instagram page @estherkadoch. She lives in Montreal with her husband and three daughters.
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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H
Decrypting the mysteries of Gewürztraminer TO MY EXCITEMENT, white wines are becoming more and more popular. We see an uptick in wineries across the kosher market producing more white wine varietal blends and single varietal wines. I have a profound love for Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. However, I feel it’s important to note a rising star on the kosher market — Gewürztraminer. My first encounter with this wine was as a child many years ago, when my father bought the remaining stock of Gewürztraminer made by Gan Eden winery before it became defunct. My memory of this wine is vivid. It was sweet, but not too sweet, and it was just a delight for Kiddush. It was the beginning of the end for my palate, since most kids my age would drink grape juice (I liked that too, don’t worry). Fast forward to today, it seems like a new Gewürztraminer is being released every season from different wineries in California and Israel. Classically grown in a cold climate, it is curious to see so many variations of this wine cropping up from vineyards, especially across Israel. The grapes ripen quickly with a preference for clay soils, which led to the unique character produced by these vines. “Gewürz” literally translates to “spice.” However, this is more of a metaphor for the flavor of the wine, having almost no spice at all, and instead hints to its versatility, which complements spicy flavors when pairing. Gewürztraminer comes in several forms. It is relatively unusual to see a dry version of the wine. Yet Vitkin produces an excellent expression of this subtype and it is a wine we enjoy often. The grape is exceptionally versatile if properly grown and harvested with a very close eye, which Vitkin has managed beautifully. Similar to Riesling, Gewürztraminer can come in dry, off-dry and sweet (dessert) forms. We tasted through a series of current offerings to see what these wines could do and how they compare, and honestly, we were delighted with the results. First up was the Vitkin, which has the classic aromas associated with Gewürz on the nose. It is so distinct and I can usually smell it from a mile away, bursting with honeysuckle, orange blossoms, dried apricots and some salinity to balance it out. 76
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Next was the classic version of this wine, the Koenig Gewürztraminer, which is produced in Alsace's natural climate and territory. It is restrained and austere as expected, with a nice hint of minerality, lime peels, green kiwis, grassy notes and some ginger in the backbone. We paired it with some French cheeses that we were saving for the occasion. Finally we tried another QPR superstar — the Baron Herzog Gewürztraminer. This wine is a tropical nose bomb, with hints of lychee, pineapple, roasted peach and melon. This off-dry wine is mouthwatering and so easy to drink; we cannot get enough of it. After circling back, we tasted through the last wines, each from different Israeli wineries. We had the Or Haganuz Amuka and the Mt. Tabor. It was fascinating to note that these wines were all enjoyable. Each winery could create a unique product despite the climate being way hotter in Israel than in the natural region for this grape to be grown. I loved all of them, but the Or Haganuz was a major crowd-pleaser and the bottle was emptied very quickly by connoisseurs and newbies alike at our table.
Don't worry — the Mt. Tabor didn't last long on the table either. We served it with a spicy chickpea green coconut curry with extra green chilies and lemongrass. It was a phenomenal pairing. One more version of Gewürztraminer that is being released soon is the Carmel Late Harvest Gewürztraminer. This wine is produced only in select years, first 2005-2010 and then again in 2016. The newest vintage, which will be a 2019, is a fine dessert wine in a 375ml format bottle that we are very much looking forward to. This wine, which can age for 10-15 years, is a classic dessert wine or dessert in itself when served ice cold. These ‘spicy’ wines are sure to be a crowd-pleaser for your next outdoor kiddush. Served on ice, they can appeal to almost every type of wine drinker and the pairing opportunities are endless. I’d even argue that it might be worthwhile to buy them in advance for Chanukah since they are special wines. I urge you to get creative and try some Gewürz; you will not be disappointed. L’chaim! NOVEMBER 2020
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S H I F R A’ S N O T E
COOKIE LOVERS REJOICE! HOT OUT OF THE OVEN, GIANT COOKIES WITH A CRISPY OUTSIDE AND A GOOEY INSIDE ARE ALL THE RAGE AND NOW YOU CAN MAKE THEM AT HOME! Giant, crispy-on-the-outside, gooey-on-theinside cookies have brought worldwide fame to bakeries like Levain Bakery in NYC. While drooling over the images on social media knowing that I couldn’t partake in this trend (Levain is not kosher), I knew we had to create our own versions. A follower actually shared the original Levain Bakery chocolate chip cookie recipe with me and it inspired this feature. I reached out to Rosa Seidenwar, baker extraordinaire based in Israel, and asked her to create original versions for Fleishigs Magazine. The results were spectacular. Try out all three varieties of these decadent, easy-to-make cookies and you’ll be transported back in time to the once-busy streets of Manhattan.
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BAKING
PB&J Cookies
Cranberry Crunch Cookies
Yield: 8 huge cookies
Yield: 8 huge cookies
Attention PB&J fans! Who needs bread when you can enjoy all the flavors of your favorite sandwich in cookie form? Not only is this a delicious peanut butter cookie, but it’s stuffed with peanut butter (and jelly!) too.
Some of my favorite things about fall: leaves changing colors (though not here in Israel), sweater weather (also not here) and cranberry crisp (finally something we can get here!). This cookie is my take on that family-favorite fall dish. Make it all year round, whenever you want to feel comforting fall vibes.
½ 1 1 2 ¾ 2¼ ¼ 1 ½ ¼
cup canola oil cup granulated sugar cup packed brown sugar (light or dark) large eggs cup peanut butter, divided cup all-purpose flour cup cornstarch teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt cup raspberry jelly (or other favorite jelly)
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Add oil and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer and beat until just combined. Add eggs, one at a time, and ½ cup peanut butter*; beat until creamy. Add flour, cornstarch, baking soda and salt and mix just until combined. 3. Using a kitchen scale, weigh out 2½-ounce balls of cookie dough (or divide the cookie dough into 16 equal parts). Flatten 1 ball and spoon about 1 teaspoon peanut butter and 1 teaspoon jelly into the center of the flattened cookie dough. Loosely cover with another ball of loosely flattened dough. Repeat with the remaining cookie dough. 4. Place 4 cookies on each baking sheet and bake for 9-10 minutes. The tops should be set but the insides should still be a bit gooey. Do not overbake! Allow the cookies cool on the hot cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack to finish cooling. *Spray the measuring cup with non-stick cooking spray before measuring peanut butter. It will slide out easily!
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¾ ¾ ¾ 2 1 2⅓ ¼ 1 ½ 1½ 1½ ½ ⅓ ¼
cup canola oil cup granulated sugar cup packed brown sugar large eggs teaspoon vanilla extract cups all-purpose flour, divided cup cornstarch teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt teaspoons cinnamon cups rolled oats cup dried cranberries cup apple pie filling cup whole berry cranberry sauce
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Add oil and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer and beat until just combined. Add eggs, one at a time, and vanilla; beat until creamy. Add 2 cups flour, cornstarch, baking soda, salt and cinnamon and mix just until combined. Using a spatula, fold in oats, dried cranberries and remaining ⅓ cup flour. 3. Using a kitchen scale, weigh out 2½-ounce balls of cookie dough (or divide the cookie dough into 16 equal parts). Flatten 1 ball and spoon about ¾ teaspoon cranberry sauce and 1 heaping teaspoon apple pie filling into the center of the flattened cookie dough. Loosely cover with another ball of loosely flattened dough. Repeat with the remaining cookie dough. 4. Place 4 cookies on each baking sheet and bake for 9-10 minutes. The tops should be set but the insides should still be a bit gooey. Do not overbake! Allow the cookies cool on the hot cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack to finish cooling.
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NOTE: IT’S IMPORTANT TO WEIGH OUT THE COOKIE DOUGH TO ENSURE EVEN BAKING.
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BAKING
Chocolate S'mores Cookies Yield: 8 huge cookies
S’mores are the ultimate when it comes to cookies and this version is super decadent — rich chocolate, gooey marshmallow and crispy cookies come together to create the perfect combination of flavor and texture. ¾ 1½ 2 2¼ ¼ ½ 1 ½ 8 1 ½
cup canola oil cups sugar large eggs cups all-purpose flour cup cornstarch cup Dutch process cocoa powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt chocolate sandwich cookies, broken into pieces cup mini marshmallows cup chocolate chips
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Add oil and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer and beat until just combined. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat until creamy. Add flour, cornstarch, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt and mix just until combined. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, fold in the cookie pieces, marshmallows and chocolate chips. 3. Using a kitchen scale, weigh out 5-ounce balls of cookie dough (or divide the cookie dough into 8 equal parts). A tip I learned from Jake Cohen, editorial director of @thefeedfeed, is to take each ball of dough, tear it in half, flip the halves over and put them back together so that the “unsmooth” side is facing up. This creates amazing texture. 4. Place 4 cookies on each baking sheet and bake for 9-10 minutes. The tops should be set but the insides should still be a bit gooey. Do not overbake! Allow the cookies cool on the hot cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack to finish cooling.
Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes for busy parents who enjoy baking but may not have the time. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a food photographer and food stylist for various brands, with a focus on video content. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_ lilyrose or on her website lilyrosebakersblog.com. 82
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BAKING
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CULINARY SCHOOL
By: Shifra Klein
Always use the size egg that the recipe recommends. Refrigerate cookie dough for a few hours or freeze for 15 minutes to prevent spreading. Chilling the dough ensures that the flour and sugar really meld into the dough. Always preheat the oven. It’s preferable to have an oven thermometer to ensure that your oven is calibrated correctly. Real (not disposable) sheet pans are essential and make sure pans are cool between batches. Use lighter pans; dark-colored pans can burn the cookies. Once cookies are done baking, transfer to a cooling rack to prevent carryover cooking from the heat of the sheet pan. This step also keeps the bottoms crisp. Weigh ingredients (like flour) with a kitchen scale for a truly accurate result. 1 cup = 130 grams
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THE MAKING OF SMALL BATCH COFFEE: GAIA COFFEE ROASTERS B Y C H A N A Z E L DA W E I SS
chocolate, blueberries and a hint of honey,” reads the label. You might think this description was found on a bottle of fine wine or whiskey, but it is in fact the Gaia Organic Sidamo single-origin coffee beans, sourced from Ethiopia. The Espresso Cremossa blend has notes of mandarin, caramel and chocolate, while the singleorigin Sumatra Gayo dark promises flavors of chocolate, black pepper and fresh fig — clearly not the generic mass-produced coffee we are used to seeing on the shelves of grocery stores. “FLAVORS OF DARK
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PROFILE
GAIA COFFEE IS not new to this industry, but after years of selling high-end espresso machines to hotels around the world, owner Josh Genuth realized that there was an untapped market of office coffee drinkers who wanted something better than the singleserve pods they were using. An independent coffee sourcing expert travels the globe, bringing samples of green (unroasted) beans back to Gaia’s Brooklyn-based micro-roasting facility. The samples are roasted and ground, then sampled by a small panel of experts through a process called cupping, much like you might see at a wine tasting. These experts will stir the coffee, inhale the aroma and swish a little bit in their mouths, all while taking detailed notes, detecting the subtle flavor nuances and determining if the new beans will make the cut. As a micro-roaster, Gaia roasts only up to 100 pounds of beans at a time. “Being a small batch roaster means you can pay closer attention to the details and have much better quality control,” explains Genuth. “When you’re roasting coffee, the difference of a
single degree in temperature can change the flavor profile.” At one point, Gaia was roasting coffee through a large toll-roaster (a facility that roasts coffee for smaller brands), but soon realized that the standard cold-water flush that large facilities use to cool the beans and stop them from roasting further was impacting the end result. Instead, they now roast all of their coffee in-house, on smaller roasters that are built with air holes and large fans underneath so that the beans are air-cooled and the flavor is preserved. Aside from the close attention to quality control, ordering coffee from a small-batch roaster often means that batches are roasted to order and shipped almost immediately. In an industry where freshness is key, this makes all the difference. Unlike most large coffee companies, boutique roasters will often stamp the roasting date onto the package as a testament (and means of accountability) to the freshness of the coffee.
GENUTH, WHO HAS pivoted his business model several times to meet evolving demands, was thrown another curveball this past spring when the global pandemic shut down offices around the world and work-from-home became the new standard. Spending more time inside our own homes only means that people are looking for high-quality home brewed coffee more than ever before. Aside from selling smaller quantities of his boutique coffee beans to home consumers along with in-home brewing equipment, Genuth decided the time was right to finally expand into other coffee-related products that had been brewing (pun intended!) in his mind for years. For several months, Genuth worked closely with JJ Eizik, former sous chef at Nobo Wine & Grill, to develop the perfect blend for a unique coffee rub. They ordered over 20 different spices from a specialty purveyor and experimented with dozens of different combinations (and lots and lots of steak) before achieving the perfect formula — an all-natural blend of an earthy and robust dark roast coffee sourced in Africa (the first ingredient, of course) with African-inspired spices including chili powder, cloves, smoked black pepper, coriander and thyme. The rub is formulated specifically for beef (watch out for future varieties for chicken and fish) and by design, contains no sugar or salt. “Salt is really the most important ingredient, because it brings out the food’s natural flavors and makes the dish taste more like it’s supposed to,” explains JJ. “As a chef, I want to be able to assess the meat and the flavor I’m going for, and be able to adjust my salt level accordingly.” The rub has only just been released, but immediately garnered incredible interest. “Our guiding philosophy has always been to just keep moving forward and to adapt to what gets thrown at you,” reflects Genuth. “We never thought we would be where we are today, but we are excited to focus on the consumer and provide people with a high quality experience in their own home. We can’t wait to see where this takes us next.”
IMPACT OF COVID-19
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Steak with Red Eye Gravy Serves: 2
By: Shifra Klein
Red eye gravy is a simple Southern staple that is made with the drippings of ham and coffee, cooked to create a thin gravy. It is traditionally served with pan seared ham and biscuits. We were inspired to create our own kosher version with Gaia’s new coffee rub (a product we featured in the Yom Tov issue), beef fry and the pan drippings from seared steak. Note: Gaia coffee rub doesn’t contain any salt (read more about it on page 87), so if using a brand of coffee rub that has added salt, use additional salt to your discretion.
1½ 1 1 1 ½ 1
pounds ribeye or NY strip steak tablespoon coffee rub (such as Gaia) teaspoon kosher salt, optional (4-ounce) package beef fry (such as Meal Mart) cup brewed coffee teaspoon honey
1. Rub steak all over with coffee rub and salt. Set aside at room temperature. 2. Place beef fry in a single layer in a cold pan and heat over medium heat. Cook until crispy, about 4 minutes, then flip and cook for another minute. Transfer to a plate, reserving excess fat in the pan. Note: You don’t need the beef fry for this dish, so save
it for another use. Of course, you can serve it alongside the steak, but the recipe only calls for the beef fry drippings. 3. Increase heat to high. Add steak to pan and sear for 5-6 minutes per side for medium doneness. Transfer to a plate. 4. Add coffee and honey to the pan. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 6 minutes, until reduced. 5. Slice steak and drizzle with red eye gravy.
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TAHINI IS ONE of the hottest ingredients in the food industry today. Used way beyond its classic origin as a dipping sauce for falafel, today you can find tahini used in cookies, cakes and sauces, from sweet to savory and everything in between. One of the key influencers in the tahini movement is Amy Zitelman, CEO of Soom Foods, who began selling high quality Ethiopian-sourced sesame paste back in 2013 and garnered the interest of nationally-acclaimed chefs like Michael Solomonov (who wrote the foreword) and Adeena Sussman. Soom Foods has focused solely on tahini, only recently adding a chocolate sea salt flavor and pure silan (date syrup) to their product lineup. Amy took her passion for tahini even further with The Tahini Table: Go Beyond 92
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Hummus with 100 Recipes for Every Meal, a cookbook that happens to be fully kosher and offers new and creative tahini-focused recipes with beautiful photography to boost its appeal. The book’s foreword is written by Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook, who share a deep love of tahini and admiration for Amy’s contribution to the tahini industry. “She gives us nachas,” reads the foreword. “We live in a moment in time when a renewed appreciation of ancient foodways and culinary traditions intersects with a growing desire to eat naturally, healthfully and without compromise. It is a moment that is tailor-made for tahini and the perfect time for this book.” The book contains seven chapters: Tahini Basics; Savory and Sweet Sauces; Hummus and Other Dips; Breakfast; Sandwiches, Salads and Sides; Mains; and Sweets. Each chapter boasts unique recipes, along with tips and tricks. There are a wide variety of recipes like halva French toast, vegan mac and cheese, dark chocolate tahini brownies, black bean tahini burgers, whole baked fish with tahini, sheet pan stir fry with sweet soy tahini, and homemade cardamom halva with pistachios. They all sound and look wonderful and approachable. This book is fun, easy to follow and is perfect for cooks at any level; the recipes are approachable but adventurous enough for a more seasoned cook to enjoy as well. The Tahini Table is available for pre-order on Amazon now.
The Tahini Table Authors: Amy Zitelman & Andrew Schloss Pages: 248 Publisher: Agate Surrey Release Date: November 10, 2020 Price: $29
Recipes reprinted with permission from The Tahini Table by Amy Zitelman.
Mom’s Chicken with Turmeric Tahini, Chickpeas and Onions Serves 4
This easy sheet-pan dinner exudes exotic aromas and makes an exciting colorful presentation. It smells like the butter chicken I get from my favorite Indian restaurant. As it roasts, the sauce sets up on the chicken, giving you a thick, crunchy-on-the-edges, chewymoist-in-the-middle texture — amazing.
1
(3½- to 4-pound) chicken, cut into parts, or 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken parts Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 cups Turmeric Tahini Sauce, divided (recipe follows) 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced, divided 1 tablespoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Coarsely chopped leaves from 1⁄2 bunch cilantro ¼–½ teaspoon hot sauce 1. Rub the chicken pieces with a generous amount of salt and pepper and put in a large zip-top plastic bag with 1 cup of the tahini sauce. Seal the bag, leaving one corner open about ½ inch. Massage the bag to coat all of the chicken pieces with sauce, then squeeze as much air as you can out of the bag and seal the bag completely. Let it sit out for 30 minutes, or overnight in the refrigerator. 2. Turn the oven to 425°F. Toss the chickpeas and half of the onion with the turmeric, cumin, and coriander on a large sheet pan. Drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper to
taste and toss everything to coat. Push everything to the edges of the pan and put the chicken pieces in the center in a single layer. Bake until the onions are crisp, the chicken skin is brown and an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F when inserted into the thickest part of a thigh, about 50 minutes. 3. While the chicken is cooking, toss the remaining onion with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. 4. When the chicken is done, transfer it to a serving plate along with the chickpeas and onions. Drizzle with some of the remaining 1 cup of tahini sauce and the hot sauce. Scatter the onion-lemon mixture and cilantro on top. Serve any remaining tahini sauce on the side.
Turmeric Tahini Sauce Makes about 2 cups
Turmeric has eye-popping color, earthy flavor (sunbaked, a little citrus, a hint of chile), impressive nutritional content (its antioxidants are off the charts) and seemingly limitless versatility. 3 ¼ 1 1 1 1 ¾
garlic cloves, minced with coarse sea salt cup freshly squeezed lemon juice cup premium tahini paste tablespoon ground turmeric teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander cup ice-cold water
5. Combine the garlic and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Let it sit for 1 to 2 minutes. 6. Whisk the tahini, turmeric, cumin and coriander into the garlic mixture until just combined. Don’t worry if it gets thick and grainy. Whisk in the water, ¼ cup at a time, until the sauce is smooth and creamy. It should be the consistency of a creamy salad dressing, like ranch. 7. Store in a closed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. NOVEMBER 2020
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Photography by: Jillian Guyette
Mom's Chicken with Turmeric Tahini (see previous page for full recipe)
"It smells like the butter chicken I get from my favorite Indian restaurant." Amy Zitelman
GAD IS GOOD
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MOST PEOPLE KNOW Gad Elbaz as the world famous Israeli singer, born with music running through his veins. The son of Israeli singer Benny Elbaz was singing and composing music from the time he was a young child. “I never really thought of it as an accomplishment,” says Elbaz, “it was just so natural to me.” While his father was often on tour, his mother was home handling everything else. “My mom was the man of the house!” he jokes. She would grill on the mangal (Israeli charcoal grill) while young Gad acted as her sous chef, watching and learning from everything his mother did. While his musical career flourished, it was years before Elbaz spent time in the kitchen, until he found himself newly divorced and living alone for the first time. “I may not have cooked a lot, but I always had a sense for good flavor,” he says. “I was always known for making the best sandwiches!” With spicy and bold flavor influences from his Israeli, Moroccan, Nigerian and French heritage, Elbaz began experimenting in the kitchen, learning as he went along. “I didn’t know any of the rules when I started,” he admits, “but I knew what good flavor was. So I could always taste to see what was missing and adjust. I learned technique along the way.” Now Elbaz finds himself with 15-20 guests for most Shabbat meals, serving his signature dishes like Moroccan salmon, “the best babaganoush and t’china you’ll ever taste” and a unique version of chamin, the classic Moroccan cholent. “Hosting guests is not just about the food,” adds Elbaz, “it’s about having fun and giving your guests a good time, with great wine and gracious hospitality.”
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TO BE FRANC, YOU NEED TO TRY GAD’S CAB BECAUSE IT’S CABERNET FRANC
G CELEBRATE
in hand, Elbaz is the embodiment of giving his guests a good time, as he sings along to a lively Latin soundtrack while grilling massive Tomahawk steaks at an intimate event celebrating the launch of his highly anticipated new wine with Shiloh Winery. It’s also a celebration of his foray into the world of food, an accomplishment he says he feels even prouder of than all of his musical success. “That was natural to me, but this is new. I worked hard and I’m proud of it,” he says, as he slices the medium-rare steak and tops it with a dollop of chimichurri sauce — but that doesn’t mean it’s not nerve wracking at the same time. “I always sleep just fine before a show, but last night I couldn’t sleep at all, knowing that I would be cooking for experts who have been at this their whole lives,” he confesses. All that work has paid off, however, as the guests enthusiastically dig into the perfectly cooked steak and grilled chicken, along with shawarma sausages topped with tahini and homemade schug, hostess Victoria
Zirkiev’s pastrami flatbread, Shlomo Klein’s signature beef tartare, an assortment of fresh salads and glass after glass of the newly released Cabernet Franc. “This is so good, I think it might put me into labor!” exclaims lifestyle blogger Rachel Ostroy (who has since given birth to a beautiful baby boy). “He doesn’t just sing, he can cook too!” adds food blogger Chanie Apfelbaum. The night would not be complete without a musical performance; as the party winds down and the desserts are served, Elbaz serenades his guests on the piano with a rendition of some of his favorite soulful tunes. Although his musical career continues to flourish, Elbaz plans to continue pursuing a path in food and wine as well, beginning with his partnership with Shiloh Winery. The full-bodied, medium-acidity Cabernet Franc features aromas of jammy raspberries and blackberries, dried flowers, green bell pepper and freshly brewed coffee with a long and rich
WHAT IF GAD WAS ONE OF US? JUST A CHEF LIKE ONE OF US.
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finish. His sights are already set on his next venture: a music-focused restaurant in Miami — the ultimate fusion of his passion for music and food. Much like Elbaz’s philosophy on hosting guests in his own home, he hopes to create a gathering place where people come not just to eat, but to have a great time. His vision includes great wine and steaks, along with live bands every night, featuring different styles of music every week, influenced by the many cultures he considers part of his heritage. As the night comes to an end, Elbaz leans back on the couch, recounting some of the highs and lows that have brought him to where he is today. Throughout his challenges and successes, his faith has always been a guiding light, inspiring him to use his passion to fulfill his mission in this world. “There’s nothing more important to me than my relationship with God,” he says, “the rest is just distractions. All I can do is try my best to use the gifts He gave me to unite people and bring them closer to Him.”
POUR LIBATIONS BEFORE GAD
Shushy Turin, Chanie Apfelbaum and Chana Zelda Weiss
Chana Zelda Weiss is a fulltime mom of 3, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook.
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Michal Weinstein and Victoria Zirkiev
DRINK UP, GAD WON’T JUDGE YOU
Rachel Ostroy
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Michael Wildes, mayor of Englewood, NJ
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Spiced Baby Chicken Serves: 6-8
2 2 1 1 1 1 2
1 1
1
By: Gad Elbaz
pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon Dijon mustard tablespoon barbecue sauce tablespoon sweet chili sauce teaspoon Sriracha tablespoons shawarma spice mix tablespoon sweet paprika teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon chicken seasoning (such as Pereg)
1. Add chicken to a large Ziploc bag. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over chicken. Let marinate for 2-3 hours. 2. Grill over high heat for 5-6 minutes per side, until cooked through.
Victoria’s Pastrami Flatbread Serves: 8
1 2 2
By: Victoria Zirkiev
½
tablespoon oil large onions, sliced (6-ounce) packages pastrami, sliced cup barbecue sauce pre-baked flatbread cup Hawaiian brisket sauce (such as Mikee) or sweet chili sauce cup arugula
2-3
tablespoons spicy mayo
¼ 1 ½
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, then add pastrami and cook for another 10 minutes. Add barbecue sauce and mix to coat; let cook over low heat for another 5 minutes. 3. Brush flatbread with brisket sauce, then top with a generous amount of onion-pastrami mixture. Cook for 10 minutes, until crispy. 4. Top with arugula and a drizzle of spicy mayo.
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Gad’s Signature Rib Steak Serves: 8
By: Gad Elbaz
4
(1-inch thick) rib steaks
¼
cup olive oil
3
teaspoons kosher salt, divided
¼
cup freshly ground black pepper, divided
2
tablespoons steak seasoning
2
teaspoons hot paprika
cup barbecue sauce
1
¾
cup dry red wine
2
tablespoons fish-free Worcestershire sauce
1
tablespoon mustard
1
tablespoon Sriracha
2
teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1. Rub steaks with olive oil and let sit for 10 minutes. Combine 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 2 tablespoons pepper, steak seasoning and paprika and coat steaks generously with the spice mixture. 2. Combine barbecue sauce, wine, Worcestershire sauce, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, remaining 2 tablespoons pepper, mustard, Sriracha and balsamic vinegar in a large Ziploc bag. Add steaks and let marinate for 2-3 hours. 3. Preheat the grill to 400°F, with high heat on one side and low heat on the other. Cook steaks over low heat for 2-3 minutes. Sear steaks over high heat for 2 minutes per side (rotate after 1 minute to achieve crosshatch grill marks).
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EVEN ADAM’S RIB DIDN’T COME OUT THIS GOOD
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What is your background and how did you break into the olive oil business?
Honestly, I don’t have fancy credentials. I’m just a regular guy who appreciates good food. I got into olive oil after experiencing delicious olive oil in high end restaurants. With minimal options in the kosher market, I looked to learn more and became a certified olive oil sommelier. In the course of my studies, I met many influential and talented people in the olive oil industry and this opened up a new business venture. I began the Olive Trading Co. as an e-commerce venture, selling some of the highest quality oils, and I have been able to expand into retail with oils in 14 stores and counting. What sets The Olive Trading Co. apart?
We source and distribute different olive oils from around the globe. We offer a variety, from a robust Italian Coratina to a mild Chilean Arbequina and everything in between — we pretty much have you covered. We also try to keep a very tight supply chain in order to have the freshest oil available at reasonable prices. For example, in December 2019, we were selling oil pressed in Italy one month prior. You can’t get any fresher than that! We also carry oils from Chile, which is in the
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INTERVIEW
Southern Hemisphere, where the olives are harvested and pressed at the opposite time of year. So if they are harvesting and pressing in Spain around November, in Chile the oil is produced in May. Once the oil from the Mediterranean loses its super fresh taste, we can provide fresh olive oil even in August, when anything from the Mediterranean is at least six months old.
same single-source location. Alonso currently produces three extra-virgin olive oils (all of which we sell), all made from different olive varieties. When enjoyed together, you truly learn and appreciate the different nuances that each olive provides, similar to a wine tasting. Set all three out at the Shabbos or holiday table and have your own tasting with your guests for a unique culinary experience.
Currently, you carry one brand with kosher certification, Alonso. Why was it important to source a brand like Alonso?
Do you recommend light olive oils?
When we decided to focus on expanding beyond e-commerce and into the kosher market, I wanted a brand that would be of the highest quality, at a practical price point and with a recognized kosher certification. After doing much research and discussing it with a few industry experts, the brand Alonso (certified kosher under the OU) kept coming up as the perfect fit for this opportunity. Alonso’s grove in Chile was built and designed using modern techniques and the best state-of-theart machinery. As an added benefit, they organized their land to grow seven varieties of olives, so they can produce different flavor profiles and strengths at the
People look to cook with “neutral” tasting oils because they don’t like the smell and flavor of a poor quality extra-virgin olive oil, but I never felt that a good oil took away from the flavor of the food itself. So many people use light olive oil because it’s flavorless, but they don’t realize that anything other than extra-virgin has been highly processed with heat and sometimes chemicals. Many consumers think they are being healthy, when the reality is that they are using a highly processed product. What is your favorite use of olive oil? Do you recommend cooking with it or just using it for finishing?
Extra-virgin olive oil adds deep flavor in most applications and is healthier than any of the cooking oils out there that are heavily processed and high in saturated fat. I’ll even use extra-virgin for frying schnitzel! For finishing, I enjoy mixing and matching a variety of food and oils. Some oils are too strong for a salad — yet perfect for meat — and vice versa. Just trying to figure out which oils fit with different foods is a fun experience. What does the future look like for the Olive Trading Co.?
I have no idea what the future holds. There is so much opportunity in this area alone, such as expanding where we sell and how many brands we ultimately want to carry. This year we actually tinkered a bit with fresh black truffles, so we can see where that takes us in the near future. We are also exploring aged kosher balsamic vinegar, which is a highly complex process, both in general and where kashrut is concerned. We are always looking to set the bar high for ourselves, both in the service and product we provide consumers.
I strongly believe that olive oil should be used for both cooking and finishing.
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INTERVIEW
Criteria for ExtraVirgin Olive Oil Quality olives Quick turnaround time from harvest to extraction An expert miller who understands the nuances of extraction and can keep the oil full of all the precious flavor and nutrients
Flavor Profile TIMING MATTERS Once an olive is picked from the tree, the natural decomposition and oxidation of the olive begins. The longer it takes to become oil, the more it is exposed to light, heat and air (three natural enemies of olive oil) and the more it will start to lose its quality. As a rule of thumb, olives should be pressed within 24 hours — the quicker the better. For example, Alonso presses their olives within 90 minutes!
HOW EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL IS MADE After the olives are crushed, they are turned into a paste, which is then transferred to a machine called a malaxer. The malaxer slowly churns the paste with the help of a little heat. In order to keep the quality of the oil, the heat doesn’t rise above 80°F., hence the term “cold-pressed.” The oil eventually starts to pool at the top. This part plays a big role in the cost and quality decision every producer makes. The longer the oil sits and the higher the temperature, the more the yield will increase but can lose flavor as the oil starts to oxidize; if the oil is made quickly at colder temperatures, the yield is significantly less. There are many innovative ideas that have continuously been developed to assist in this process and can contribute to a good quality product.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN SHOPPING FOR EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Look for oil from a single source/farm, where there is tight control over the entire process. Many oils out there are a blend from many different locations.
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Quality oils will list the harvest date on the bottle; oil will be at its freshest and carry the most flavor and antioxidants when it is purchased closest to its extraction. The older it gets, the more it will deteriorate and eventually turn stale.
To recognize a good oil, it must be perfectly balanced in fruitiness, bitterness and pungency. In any competition, an oil must have all three characteristics in order to win an award. It’s good to keep in mind that strong and mild are not the only characteristics of oil when pairing with food. Two robust extra-virgin olive oils can have completely different flavor profiles, with different levels of bitterness and pungency (spiciness). Likewise, a lighter oil can contain the same flavor profile as a stronger oil, except it is lighter and won’t overpower a dish like a stronger oil would. Some oils are made with olives that are more ripe, lending to a softer fruit and less spice and some are from more unripe olives that promote a sharper, more grassy flavor.
Look for oil that either lists the acidity or has a <0.3 on it, which is the level that most quality olive oils achieve.
The smoke point of extra-virgin olive oil is always talked about as a problem. However, good extra-virgin olive oil can handle almost all temperatures, as the smoke point is significantly higher than what is commonly believed. An average oil smoke point can be as high as 410°F and a quality oil with a high polyphenol count (antioxidants) can handle as high as 470°F. Most cooking is rarely done higher than 350°F.
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RECIPE INDEX CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 18 Guacamole FF M Q 18 Sweet Chili Mayo M Q 27 Mediterranean Tomato Salsa M Q 28 Aji Verde Q 31 Berbere Spice Mix Q 37 Faux Caesar Dressing FF 37 Miso Maple Dressing 37 Lemon Horseradish Dressing M 56 Quick Pickled Vegetables M Q 56 Ginger Scallion Topping Q 62 Scallion and Sesame Beer Bread Q 62 Sun-Dried Tomato and Almond Spread Q 65 Pickled Red Onions M Q 65 Maple Bourbon Vinaigrette M Q 71 Pomegranate and Rosemary Gin & Tonic 74 Salade Cuite 74 Sweet And Spicy Eggplant Dip 74 Mushroom Onion Dip FF 93 Turmeric Tahini Sauce FF M Q
VEGETARIAN & SIDES 31 37 37 37 37 37 44 44 44 55 56 65 68
Roasted Potatoes FF M Q Asian Marinated Tofu FF M Q Soft Boiled Eggs M Q Curried Cauliflower Steaks FF M Q Roasted Eggplant M Q Roasted Sweet Potatoes FF M Q Chickpea and Pepper Shakshuka FF Hearty Beet and Chickpea Meatballs Roasted Beets M Pumpkin Tempeh Chili FF Oven-Baked Rice FF M Q Arugula and Peach Salad with Pickled Red Onions and Cashews Q Curried Cranberry Couscous FF
FISH 56 Miso-Glazed Salmon Rice Bowl FF Q 65 Sweet Dijon Trout Q
KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick
POULTRY 28 28 37 49 50 67 93 105
Peruvian Chicken and Rice FF Chicken Congee Amba Chicken FF M Q Grilled Chicken, Fennel and Apple Salad Q Sheet Pan Chicken FF M Miso Chicken and Vegetable Soup FF Mom’s Chicken with Turmeric Tahini Spiced Baby Chicken FF
MEAT 18 18 19 27 27 27 31 31 32 53 68 91 105 106 112
Slow Cooker Pepper Steak FF Pepper Steak Tacos FF Estihana Shredded Crispy Beef FF Mediterranean Lamb Fillo Flatbread Lamb Appetizer Triangles Hummus Bassar Berbere London Broil FF M Q Tibs Sandwich Q Curried Shepherd’s Pie FF Mielie Pap with Sausages and Gravy FF M Q Sous Vide Shoulder Roast M Steak with Red Eye Gravy M Victoria’s Pastrami Flatbread FF Gad’s Signature Rib Steak Coffee Liqueur Baked Beans
SWEET TREATS 71 80 80 82
Chocolate Quinoa Cake with Maple Pecan Glaze PB&J Cookies FF Cranberry Crunch Cookies FF Chocolate S'mores Cookies FF
LAST BITE
Coffee Liqueur Baked Beans Serves: 6
By: Shifra Klein
These baked beans are packed with dynamic flavor. You don't taste the coffee or alcohol, it just adds a rich flavor.
1
1 2 ½ ½ ½ ¼ 1
1
(4-ounce) package beef fry (such as Meal Mart) onion, chopped cloves garlic, minced cup Misceo coffee liqueur cup barbecue sauce cup chicken broth cup Dijon mustard (15.5-ounce) can pinto beans (15.5-ounce) can white beans
1. Place beef fry in a single layer in a cold pan and heat over medium heat. Cook until crispy, then transfer to a plate. 2. Add onions to pan and sauté over mediumlow heat for 15-20 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another 2 minutes. 3. Add coffee liqueur and cook for 3 minutes, then add barbecue sauce, broth, mustard and beans. Cook for 10-15 minutes. 4. Chop beef fry and add to beans. Serve hot.
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