Fleishigs Magazine Issue 006 - April 2019 by Fleishigs Magazine

M E D I U M

page 54

page 95

ISSUE

W E ’ R E

W E L L

D O N E

DANIELLE RENOV: MAKING THE BEST WITH WHATS LEFT.

APR. 2019

page 46

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CONTENTS

VEGETABLES & SIDES

6 8

Back to Basics with Chef Isaac Bernstein

A CELEBRATION OF FISH A taste of Israel dinner, pg. 30

Chef Guzman's next level salmon tartare, pg. 40

EDITOR'S LETTER

TRAVEL The world’s largest seder

16 18

INTRODUCTION

BASICS Kitchen basics and extras

YAPCHIK The ultimate recipe

SOUPS freezing basics

LEFTOVERS Danielle Renov’s passion for horseradish

100

PRODUCT NEWS +the latest Pesach products

101

THE CELLAR 5 wines you need this Pesach

MEAT MAINS

Butcher’s Cut: French Roast by meat expert Naf Hanau

102

83 DESSERT

INTERVIEW Top Chef contestant Sara Bradley

104

RECIPE GUIDE +wine pairings

106

LAST BITE Pastrami Matzah Brie

Healthy approach to desserts

GE GUEST EDITOR

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APRIL 2019

DANIELLE RENOV Born and raised in New York, Danielle Renov of @peaslovencarrots brings her Moroccan and Mediterranean influenced recipes to a worldwide audience out of her home in Jerusalem, Israel. From her popular website, peaslovencarrots.com, and various social media platforms she’s always having fun and sharing her love of cooking with her viewers. From blogging to vlogging, restaurant consulting to recipe developing, cooking demos to private classes, everything Danielle whips up is done with a huge smile, bursting with laughter and most importantly, filled with killer food!

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editor's letter

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

PESACH ISSUE

NOTHING TO PASS OVER

y basic menu for Pesach starts with roasted chicken and potatoes, then I contemplate how many different ways I can cook chicken and potatoes together and I love every second of it. Really, I adore Pesach. I love the food, the family time, the nostalgia factor and the history and story of Pesach itself. The story we read in the Haggadah and the timeless message of redemption is inspiring and still relatable today. It reminds me of my grandparents and great grandparents’ experiences living as Orthodox Jews in communist Russia. My grandfather grew up secretly baking matzah in a bakery under his home, despite the potential danger of being caught committing a religious act. This is the holiday of religious freedom and while the miracle of coming out of Egypt took place thousands of years ago, we all share stories of religious persecution in the past decades. We can probably all agree that there is a lot to be grateful for this Pesach season and we can all agree at the same time that the message of “Next Year in Jerusalem” is just as prevalent today. Growing up in a Chabad household, we were very limited in the use of our ingredients during Pesach. A large chunk of produce was off-limits, for reasons we never understood and as adults have learned to simply embrace as family tradition. Those experiences and cooking style, however, developed a deep appreciation within me about how much can be done with minimal ingredients. This is a sentiment that all the contributors to this issue share. Guest editor Danielle Renov (@peaslovencarrots) inspired me with her passionate essay on not eating gebrokts, even though

she can. You see, I was never able to, and reading about not wanting to was inspiring. Her many recipes, tips and tricks you’ll find throughout the issue stick true to this theme. Danielle’s mom joined us as well to share a family classic, yapchik, which utilizes a few simple ingredients, meat, potatoes, onions and more meat, in the most magical of ways. And we don’t need to remind you how much we love yapchik at Fleishigs! Months ago, when I approached Chef Isaac Bernstein about contributing to this issue, he immediately stated, “it’s time to get back to basics.” Basic for Chef Isaac is still spectacular, but attainable, so don’t worry. The blintz recipe he shared stacked and folded amazingly well. His grandmother’s nut cake was fluffy, tender and had just the right amount of chocolate. You’ll find this philosophy in Chef Gruzman’s salmon tartare as well. Naomi Nachman shares her freezing tips and her amazingly simple 5-ingredient lemon curd. The truth is, most recipes are between 5-10 ingredients and are basic with an element of something special. And beyond that, we share everything you will need this Pesach season. A dose of inspiration (the largest seder in the world), basic kitchen supplies, utilizing leftovers and everything you need to know about fish. This is a typical send off for Pesach, but we really mean it: Free yourself of the cooking burden. Work with what you’ve got. Highlight it. Enjoy it. Bitayavon, Shifra Also- if you are a lucky subscriber, you will have received an email with a complete Pesach recipe guide of over 100 recipes. Subscribe today and we will email you one

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com 6

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APRIL 2019

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CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz PROOFREADERS Chana Z. Weiss Shterna Karp DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappaport KITCHEN ASSISTANT Devorah Kahan MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt RABBINICAL AUTHORITY www.ok.org

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Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishseddy.com for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.ﬁshseddy.com or Fishseddy the store at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

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NEPAL 30+ Years in Kathmandu: How The Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Largest Seder Transformed Jewish Life in Asia BY PHREDDY WISCHUSEN

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TRAVEL

L 2,000

backpackers in Nepal and thousands more worldwide flock to attend Chabad seders APRIL 2019

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TRAVEL

When

20-year-old

rabbinical students, Mendel Kastel and Mendel Lipskier arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal, on very short notice in April 1989, they knew they had their work cut out for them. But they were ready. Preparing a large, communal Pesach Seder is logistically challenging anywhere,

Setting up 30 years ago for the first ChabadLubavitch Seder in Kathmandu, Nepal. (Photo: Mendel Kastel)

but it’s especially daunting in Kathmandu, where a mix of backpackers and professionals from all over Asia and the world have converged every year for the past 30 years for “The World’s Largest Seder.” The two students, who were attending yeshivah in Australia at the time, had to ensure that all the spaces were thoroughly cleaned; utensils and stoves kashered; chametz (grain that has risen) sold or otherwise disposed of; food cooked; matzah and wine provided, and that every last Jew in the area was invited. Doing all that without precedent thousands of miles from the nearest Jewish community in a preInternet world seemed almost impossible. Only a few weeks earlier, Israel’s Ambassador to Nepal, Shmuel Moyal, had hung up a sign-in sheet at a popular restaurant announcing a Seder at Israel’s 10

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embassy, expecting that 30 or 40 Israelis

even phone calls had to be scheduled in

would attend. But when nearly 90 peo-

advance,” Kastel tells Chabad.org. Wanting

ple signed up just three weeks before

to reach as many Jews as possible, the

Passover, he turned to the Rebbe—Rabbi

rabbinical students and some backpackers

Menachem M. Schneerson, of righteous

began making their own handwritten signs

memory—for help.

and hanging them up all over the city.

“I sent a telegram to Rabbi Schneerson,

Before coming to Nepal, they hoped that

who I knew from when I was a consul in

they might be able to add to the 90 guests

New York,” Moyal told Chabad.org in 2011.

signed up by the Israeli embassy, and that

The Rebbe sent word to the ambassador

150 people might attend the Seder. But

not to worry, that he would send rabbinical

word spread quickly, and as the list of peo-

students to help.

ple signing up for the Seder on the bottom

Upon arriving in Kathmandu, Kastel,

of big cardboard posters placed around

a native of Brooklyn, NY, recalls seeing

Kathmandu began to overflow, it was ap-

“cows walking around the streets, and all

parent that many, many more wanted to

the water for drinking and cooking had to

come. Before long, it seemed that Jews

be boiled.” Getting the word out was even

from all over Asia, tourists and business

harder. Not only was there no Internet, “but

people alike, were heading to Kathmandu w w w.f leishigs.com

TRAVEL But the young rabbis continued to pre-

“I grew up in Israel,” he says. “Meetings

shipment get through, and a tractor trave-

between yeshivah students and ‘secular’

led two hours over mountain passes with a

Israelis in Tel Aviv weren’t always that

load of card tables, which were too small for

friendly. But in Nepal, suddenly everyone

Seder tables. A builder constructing a hotel

was super friendly. The backpackers were

loaned them doors to be laid atop the card

thrilled to meet us. Right away, all the is-

tables and crates to make the tables larger.

sues of Israel just disappeared.”

On the Seder night, 500 Jews from far and wide—Israel, the United Kingdom, the United States, France, South America and beyond—gathered in a backyard in Nepal to celebrate a 3,300-year-old ritual in the shadow of the world’s tallest mountains, under the light of a full moon, surrounded by hundreds of Nepalese lining the top of the walls wanting to see what the singing

Over

1 million

people visited Nepal in 2018. for the event.

First, they had to find a location for the meal. As there was no space large enough to hold a crowd of more than 100, Kastel and Lipskier found a local establishment whose owner allowed them to host the Seder in the backyard. They bought all of the vegetables at the local market—buying almost everything available there—and then set about kashering the kitchen and building a brick oven in which to cook the food. “Meanwhile, the expected number of guests kept growing,” recalls Kastel, “and the matzah, kosher wine and gefilte fish making its way from Israel was embargoed” because of a row between India and Nepal. There was another problem: they had no tables.

A Profound Impact on Young Backpackers

Those early Seders proved to be trans-

formative in the lives of many of the young

and cheering was all about.

backpackers who took part. “[The Seder]

High-Altitude Seders Through the 1990s

told Lubavitch News Service in 1991. The

The next year, Rabbi Asi Spiegel, 21 at the

Mendel Kastel arrives in Nepal in 1989.

joy and connection everyone experienced.

vail. The Israeli embassy helped the food

was a real eye-opener for me,” Irit Goren Tel Aviv native had come to Nepal to study Eastern religions. “This is the first time Judaism had any meaning for me,” she said. “I never knew that Judaism was so spiritual.” Goren’s sentiments were shared by thou-

time, and his friends—Rabbi Dovid Bisk and

sands who attended the early Seders, and

Rabbi Chaim Baruch Alevsky—conducted

news spread in Israel by word-of-mouth

the Kathmandu Seder under the auspices of

and through stories in Israel’s news media.

Merkos L’Inyonei Chinuch, the educational

Spiegel and Bisk went on to host six more

arm of Chabad-Lubavitch, which under the

Seders over the next eight years. Eitan Levi,

direction of Rabbi Moshe Kotlarsky, its vice

second-in-command in the Israeli Embassy

chairman, continues to send young “Roving

in 1995, a year that Spiegel couldn’t make

Rabbis” around the world. (This year, some

it, took it upon himself to keep the tradition

700 Chabad rabbinical students will help

going and make the Seder happen.

to host hundreds of Seders in dozens of countries around the world.) Spiegel and Bisk arranged to hold the

“We knew that Chabad has places all over the world. If we want the Seder to be right and kosher, Chabad could help us, like

Seder at the Israeli Embassy. Despite having the embassy staff to help, there were new challenges. The country was in the midst of a civil war, and a few days before Passover, 50 protesters marching on the palace were killed. “The embassy was considering canceling the Seder,” recalls Spiegel, adding that the Rebbe gave them a blessing and urged them to push forward. The morning before the Seder, Nepal’s King Birendra agreed to some of the protesters’ requests, lifting the ban on political parties in Nepal, allowing for the first possibility of democratic reform in the mountain kingdom and clearing the way for the Seder to go on. More than 700 people came for the Seder. Spiegel remembers the feeling of

Pesach seder invite 1989 APRIL 2019

Fleishigs

TRAVEL sending supplies from Israel for the expect-

And the Seders don’t take place just in

ed 1,200 people. They ended up sending us

the Nepalese capital. This year, teams of

a huge package via diplomatic mail: wine,

“Roving Rabbis” will assist the Lifshitzes

matzah and other kosher products, in addi-

by conducting Seders at several loca-

tion to a few young emissaries,” he said.

tions around the country.

A huge tent was erected on the embassy grounds with the help of the Nepalese Army and police. Then he and his wife, Yudit, organized 50 backpackers to help prepare the feast. “Even my mother-in-law, my sister-in-law and my brother-in-law were there cleaning vegetables.” Preparing for the Seder circa: 1990's

During the Seder, Mrs. Levi recalls, “My

nual Seder in Kathmandu planted the

She stood on the table and recited the Mah

seeds for what has become a growing

Nishtanah (Four Questions), and every time

network of permanent Chabad centers

she finished singing a part, 1,200 people

throughout Southeast Asia, providing

would sing in response. It was something

Jewish backpackers with a Jewish home

truly awesome and beautiful.”

away from home year-round. Today,

Rabbi Chezki and Chani Lifshitz, co-di-

rectors of Nepal’s Chabad center, have run

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APRIL 2019

centers serving as anchors for Jewish life to the many thousands of travelers they reach each year. Last Passover, in a kind of reunion,

they ordered more than 1,500 pounds of

wife, Tzippi, their seven children and two

matzah and 1,000 bottles of wine. They,

grandchildren—to what was the 30th

too, face challenges every year. Shipping to

Chabad Seder in Kathmandu. Despite the challenges, the emissaries

truck fell down in India, and a helicopter had

who have hosted Seders in Kathmandu

to bring the stuff,” says Lifshitz. “Another

for the past 30 years cite the Rebbe’s

time the shipment arrived in Malaysia by

vision of love for their fellow Jews as the

mistake and didn’t make it to Nepal until

inspiration for all the hard work they did to

one week after Pesach.” So a month before

bring Passover to Jews so far from home. As thousands of Israelis strapped

own wine—just in case. They have pro-

into their backpacks leave Ben-Gurion

duced more than 250 gallons to date.

Airport in Tel Aviv for Asia and South

Throughout the year, the Lifshitzes give

America to “find themselves” for a year

Torah study classes, hold daily, Shabbat and

or two, thousands of others are return-

holiday services, run two kosher restau-

ing home inspired, having found their

rants and serve the many material and spir-

Jewish selves in a neutral ground devoid

itual needs of Jewish trekkers year-round,

of politics where they are embraced with

down to the detail of providing them with

simple love as a Jewish brother or sister.

satellite phones so they can be in contact in

America and Australia, with dozens of

Kastel brought his whole family—his

Pesach, the Lifshitzes started making their

Tables Set 1989

that network stretches as far as South

the Seder since 2000. For last year’s Seder,

Nepal is notoriously difficult: “One time the

Outdoor Cooking for Seder circa: early 1990's

Extending far beyond Nepal, the an-

daughter was about 2-and-a-half years old;

A Permanent Presence Rabbinical student Mendel Lipsker assists a backpacker with tefillin in 1989.

Worldwide Network for Jewish Backpackers

In Nepal, says Spiegel, “it was the first

case of an emergency. The couple has been

time I understood how much the Rebbe

an important presence in the country dur-

wanted us to go to work, to be there

ing and after devastating earthquakes, and

for other Jews, even somewhere so far

responding to emergencies and tragedies

away. If we set our minds to that, nothing

involving hikers and climbers.

could stop us.”

Copyright and reprinted with permission from Chabad.org/News. Chabad.org is a nonprofit website dedicated to connecting people worldwide with inspirational content and access to local Chabad houses. Donate at www.chabad.org/donate. w w w.f leishigs.com

TRAVEL

travel NEPAL

Beyond Everest:

Over 1 million people visited Nepal in 2018. Nepal is geographically diverse with hot steamy plains bordering India and many famous mountain ranges bordering Tibet. It is full of amazing landscapes, a few World Heritage Sites, Buddhist and Hindu religious sites and provides rich tourist opportunities for nature lovers, adventure seekers and those who appreciate other cultures. Nepal is renowned for adventure tourism due to its prominent

mountain peaks. Mount Everest, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest and most famous mountain, straddles Nepal and Tibet. Most climb from the Nepalese side. You need a special permit which can cost over $10,000, supplies and guides which can set you back which can set you back $30,000 to $100,000, and a few weeks if you plan to make it to Everest, a feat achieved by about only 600 per year. The month of May is the ideal time to trek Everest.

Sources for climbing Everest: Supplies: www.nationalgeographic. com, www.adventure. howstuffworks.com Permits: http://www.mounteverest. net Kosher experience: www.yeahthatskosher.com Kosher food: www.chabadnepal.com

The following is just a glimpse of the various nature opportunities Nepal offers those who visit.

THE ANNAPURNA CONSERVATION AREA

This is the largest protected area in Nepal and encompasses parts of the Manang, Mustang, Kaski, Myagdi and Lamjung districts. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wild area of mountains, forests, hills and rivers that are very popular for trekking.

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TRAVEL

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK Chitwan is Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular jungle national park, as it is easily accessible from both Kathmandu and Pokhara. Here is where you can see all manner of bird life, gharial crocodiles, deer and elephants, but the main attraction is the one-horned rhinoceros, of which there are over 600. Modest and more luxurious accommodations are available

MANASLU TREKKING Manaslu circuit allows you to climb the eighth tallest mountain in the world, Mt. Manaslu. As it has only been recently opened, it has a more exclusive, quieter, untouched vibe than Everest does.

MUSTANG TREKKING

KOSHI TAPPU WILDLIFE RESERVE

BARDIA NATIONAL PARK

allowsMt. youMustang, to climb the InManaslu additioncircuit to climbing thiseighth trek gives tallest mountain in the world, Mt. Manaslu. As it has you glimpse into the life of true Nepalese mountain only been recently opened, it has a more exclusive, people, who werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t in touch with the rest of Nepal for quieter, untouched hundreds of years. vibe than Everest does. 14

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Bardia is more remote and therefore much quieter, with with a high chance of spotting the rare Royal Bengal Tiger.

Established in 1973, Koshi Tappu was the first National Park of Nepal, created to preserve a unique eco system significantly valuable to the whole world. The park gained much wider recognition in the world when UNESCO included this area on the list of World Heritage Sites in 1984. Only a small part of the park is open for tourists who come for bird watching (485 species live here), nature exploration, safaris and bike rides. It is close to India and quite hot.

LUMBINI Lumbini is known as the birthplace of Buddhism.

TOP 5 AIRLINES TO NEPAL: Jet Airways Air Arabia Qatar Airways Nepal Airlines Fly Dubai

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e xplore Well-known for its majestic views and breathtaking scenery, the Pacific Northwest is also home to one of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier wine growing regions. Benefiting from the warm stable weather of the West Coast, mixed with the cooler nights of northern latitudes, wines from Oregon and Washington feature lively ripe fruit of New World wines mixed with the refreshing acidity that Old World wine. Open a bottle of Pacifica wine and explore the tastes of the Pacific Northwest.

INTRODUCTION

Break Boundaries

A Fresh Approach to Pesach

Pesach is seven days long. That’s it. Twenty-one meals. You do not need to start cooking one month in advance to prepare twenty-one meals, a third of which are breakfast and half of which can be accomplished by throwing chicken and meat on a barbecue! Full disclosure: We technically do eat gebrokts (matzah cooked with, or in, liquid). But we don’t. Why? Because gebrokts food

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APRIL 2019

BY DANIELLE RENOV

is, to be blunt, not that great. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for a good piece of matzah pizza, but when it comes to actual cooking, and building flavors with ingredients, I don’t make anything gebrokts because matzah meal does not taste good and does not make other foods taste good. I know, gasp. How could I say such thing? Doesn’t everyone dream of being able to use more products on Pesach? Well, my friends, I’m saying otherwise and I’ll tell you why. The most basic forms of food, like

produce and proteins, are the basis of everything we eat. During the year we dress them up with spices, sauces, and grains—oftentimes resulting in something that no longer resembles the original taste, smell, or feel of the ingredients we began working with. Case in point, Chinese food. I’m all for a good dumpling or plate of sesame chicken, but I’ve never been to a farm and seen a chicken whose breed was called “sweet and sour.” Chicken tastes like chicken. And Chinese chicken, although extremely delicious, tastes like a crunchy little nugget

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tastes like veggies. Every year, it’s tempting to reach for the matzah meal and imitation mustards and soy sauces. We’ve spent all year rummaging the pantry for those familiar items and we feel their void when it’s time to stay away. I beg you, though, as you wander the super busy supermarket aisles, turn your head from the Pesach section and keep walking. We would never add weird, chemically tasting mustard to our foods during the year, so why do it now? And more than that, we just don’t need them! For one week we can cook and eat our food the way that

Fruits: • Almond butter drizzled over fruit • Applesauce • Baked apple (stuffed with dried fruit and nuts) • Poached pears

Fleishigs:

Chocolate:

• • • •

• Chocolate mousse • Chocolate covered fruits and nuts (bananas, strawberries, blueberries, dates, cashews, almonds…) • Fudgy brownies • Hot cocoa • Boozy chocolate ganache truffles

• • • • •

Grilled chicken cutlets Broiled lamb chops Beef stew Garlic and herb-crusted brick roast Chicken cooked in a pot with tons of veggies BBQ chicken wings Hot dogs and hamburgers Shepherd’s pie Meat sauce (over cauliflower rice or potatoes)

• BBQ skirt steak

Fish: • Moroccan fish • Broiled halibut • Crispy pan-roasted salmon

Vegetables: • Roasted veggies (zucchini, carrots, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, cabbage, onions, squash, radishes) • Mashed potatoes • French fries (regular and sweet) • Scalloped potatoes (pareve or dairy) • ALL the salads (garden, cherry tomato + avocado + hearts of palm, fennel + cilantro, beet, Moroccan carrot, coleslaw, potato + chicken, Israeli...) • Fully-loaded baked potatoes • Crispy, cheesy potato skins • Cauliflower or broccoli “tater tots” • Zucchini noodles with Alfredo sauce • Cauliflower gratin

Others: • • • •

Ice cream Ices/granita Meringues/pavlovas Whipped cream (eaten alone or served with strawberries for dipping) • Cinnamon sugar egg crackers • Warm apple cider • Milkshakes • Roasted marshmallows

Sweet

For one week we can cook and eat our food the way that Hashem intended us to.

Hashem intended us to. And you know what, woohoo—because simple eating means simple cooking, which means less work for us. The only place I’d allow you to maybe make a case for matzah meal is when it’s used as a breading for frying. And then I’d debunk the argument by asking if you’ve ever crushed potato chips in your food processor to use as a crumb coating instead. In all seriousness, whether you eat gebrokts, peel your tomatoes, cook up fava beans for fūl, check every grain of rice, or only eat boiled chicken—the important part is connecting to the holiday through the minhagim (customs) that our parents, grandparents, and the generations before them passed down to us. We are a link in the chain between Jews, past and future. The beauty and care with which we approach our traditions during this holiday is what will be passed along to our offspring. So, don’t let my (or anyone else’s) opinions on food, Pesach cleaning, or clothing shopping get too far. Do what works for you—and stay sane enough to enjoy the holiday. I’m assuming that by now every cook had discarded their matzah meal, but I don’t want to leave you high and dry. Here’s a quick list of some of my favorite sweet and savory dishes that are gluten free— and perfect for Pesach.

Savory

of sweet, sticky, and sometimes spicy, soy sauce. After fifty-one weeks of eating food whose texture and flavor is masked or enhanced, Pesach arrives and we have to eat things just the way they are. It’s terrifying, but also glorious! We roast our carrots so that they taste like, well, carrots. We grill our chicken with a bit of salt and pepper so that it tastes like chicken, and we dress our salads with a simple lemon vinaigrette so that it still

"Simple ingredients prepared in a simple way — that's the best way to take your everyday cooking to a higher level." -CELEBRITY CHEF JOSE ANDRES

APRIL 2019

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Is it Kosher for Pesach?

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BASICS

Mayonaisse Roasted Tomato Paste

Grated Horseradish Red Onion Marmalade Cocktail Sauce

Basic Cookie Mix Golden Onions

Leek Confit

Having a few basics available on-the-ready allows you to produce high-quality dishes that won't take much of your time. Roast a chicken or a side of salmon with nothing more than olive oil, salt, and pepper (and maybe some lemon zest and juice), then serve with confit leeks. Boil a few potatoes or scramble some eggs and blend a few tablespoons of golden onions into the mix for a “wow” meal, or chop fresh vegetables and mix with already-prepared basic vinaigrette and you’ve got cooking under control. This chapter is especially useful for those who shy away from store bought items on Pesach or anyone looking to gain inspiration for using minimally processed ingredients year round.

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BASICS

Red Onion Balsamic Marmalade

Homemade Mayonnaise

RECIPE BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN Yields: 1 cup

RECIPE BY DANIELLE RENOV Yields: 1 cup

 Making your own mayonnaise takes minutes and is a great basic to have stored in your fridge. Add mayo to salad dressings, coat fish, chicken or meat and top with crumbs and fry, or add to mashed potatoes for extra creaminess. You can also blend in some golden onions (see pg. 23), roasted garlic, or your favorite spice blend to make an amazing dipping sauce. 1 egg 2 cloves garlic, chopped (optional) 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon coarse black pepper Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup canola oil Place all the ingredients, aside from the oil, in the bowl of a food processor. Set processor on medium speed. Allow ingredients to mix for 30-45 seconds. Begin streaming in the oil very slowly until the whole cup is incorporated. Turn off processor and scoop mayonnaise into an airtight jar. Store in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Horseradish Mayonnaise RECIPE BY DANIELLE RENOV Yields: 1 ½ cups 1 cup mayonnaise ½ cup grated horseradish Juice of 1 lemon 1 ½ teaspoons salt Put everything in a bowl and mix to combine. Refrigerate until serving.

 You can easily double or triple this recipe to make a larger batch that will last you throughout Pesach. These onions work as flavor boosters, a sweet garnish to salads and roasted fish or chicken, and my meat blintzes.

Cocktail Sauce RECIPE BY DANIELLE RENOV Yields: 1 ¼ cup 1 cup ketchup 1 tablespoon lemon juice ¼ cup grated horseradish Salt and pepper to taste (because of varying ketchup brands, you’ll have to wing those measurements, but I know you can do it!) Put everything in a bowl and mix to combine. Refrigerate until serving.

Basic Vinaigrette RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Yields: 1 ½ cups 1 cup olive oil ⅓ cup lemon juice 2 tablespoons orange juice 1 shallot 1 teaspoon kosher salt Pinch of black pepper Optional add-ins: 1 clove garlic, ¼ cup fresh herbs, 1 tablespoon honey Blend with an immersion blender or food processor. Store, covered, in a glass jar up to a month in the fridge.

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 3 red onions, thinly sliced ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Sauté onions with salt until translucent, but not browned. Add the balsamic and sugar and cook 5-10 minutes, until reduced but onions still have texture and an oniony bite. Cool and store in a sealed container in the fridge. Will last a month in a glass jar.

Roasted Tomato Paste RECIPE BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN Yields: 1 cup

 Caramelizing tomato paste amps up the your typical umami rich tomato paste. For me, this paste is the most important Pesach ingredient to have on hand. Add some to mayonnaise and stews or use as an elevated version of ketchup. 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 (12-ounce) can tomato paste Drizzle oil into a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the tomato paste into the pan and stir until the paste melts into the oil. Cook until the two are well incorporated and tomato paste becomes golden and caramelized, about 15 minutes. Store, covered, in fridge for up to 30 days. APRIL 2019

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Roasted Matbucha RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Yields: 2 cups 4 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 green pepper, halved and seeded ¼ cup onion 5 cloves garlic ¼ cup oil ½ tablespoon salt Pinch of crushed red pepper 1 tablespoon tomato paste Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss tomatoes, pepper, onion and garlic with oil, salt and red pepper. Roast for 25 minutes. Let cool. Place in food processor with tomato paste. Pulse until chunky. Place in covered container in fridge until ready to serve.

Leek Confit RECIPE BY MIKI BROIDE Serves: 8

 These leeks are a great basic. Serve as-is or add to soups, chicken, salad dressings, scrambled eggs, and even cholent. They have a sweet onion flavor, without being harsh. Save the oil and use to garnish steak or to stir fry vegetables. We sliced the leeks in half to confit them, but feel free to slice whichever shape you prefer. 4 leeks, sliced lengthwise and cleaned thoroughly 2 cups olive oil Preheat oven to 350°F. Place leeks into a 9” oven safe dish. Pour oil over leeks. Roast for 1 hour, until leeks are tender.

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BASICS

Golden Onions BY DANIELLE RENOV Yields: 3-4 cups

 The first thing I do when I start Pesach cooking is sauté 40 onions. Store them in pint and half-pint size containers or small Ziploc bags, then pop them in the freezer and have pareve sautéed onions on hand to use all Pesach long. I throw the onions into omelets and hash browns for breakfast, I add them to salads for lunch, and I use them to top burgers and steak for dinners. They’re great instant flavor boosters as the start to my main dishes, like my Meaty Potato Soup (pg. 63) or my mother’s famous yapchik recipe (pg. 59). If you’re worried about having leftovers, don’t be. Here’s the secret: sautéed onions are made the same way year-long as they are on Pesach! 40 onions 2 tablespoons oil 1 tablespoon salt Slice the onions in half, run them through a food processor with the slicing blade attachment, and then stick them in a huge pot with oil and salt. Cook over medium heat, covered, for 30 minutes, with an occasional stir. Then uncover, reduce heat to mediumlow and cook for another 6-8 hours until they are deeply browned and basically melted.

Leek Confit Shakshuka RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Serves: 4 1 cup chopped leek confit 1 (6-ounce) bag baby spinach Pinch of crushed red pepper, optional 4 eggs

In a 9" skillet, heat leek confit on medium heat. Add spinach and cook until wilted. Create 4 wells in pan and pour eggs inside. Cover pan with lid or large plate and cook on medium heat for four minutes. Serve immediately.

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’ T C A L L YOU

PE NI

POTS & SKILLETS & DISHES OH MY! PA N F O R N O

The tools you need to cook up a storm.

PREP TWICE, COOK ONCE.

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APRIL 2019

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

Pots & Pans

8 QUART POT: large stocks and soups 5 QUART POT WITH LID (PREFERABLY OVENPROOF, LIKE A DUTCH OVEN): roasts, braised dishes, smaller soups 3 QUART POT WITH LID: sauces, boiled eggs 10” SKILLET* OR FRYING PAN: sautéed vegetables, pan kugels 8” SKILLET* OR FRYING PAN: vegetables, scrambled eggs or frittata OVEN TO TABLE BAKING DISH (9” SQUARE, RECTANGULAR OR ROUND, GLASS OR CERAMIC): kugels, roast chicken, or fish

*We recommend cast iron skillets. They’re great for searing steak and chicken breasts.

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BASICS

Prep tools

CHEF’S KNIFE: The all-purpose knife is great for dicing, mincing and chopping vegetables, cutting through chicken legs, portioning out fish, or slicing steak. PARING KNIFE: Smaller than a chef’s knife, this knife is great for peeling produce and removing seeds from peppers. BASIC PEELER: No Pesach can exist without a solid vegetable peeler. We recommend a “Y” peeler which is great for quickly peeling potatoes and apples. PLUS: Can opener, strainer, wooden spoons, and a spatula.

Storage

Gadgets

PLASTIC CONTAINERS

WITH LIDS: Perfect for Pesach because they can be discarded if needed.

CUISINART FOOD PROCESSOR: Make salad dressings, kugel, chopped vegetables, and purées.

GLASS JARS WITH LIDS: These will last a lifetime and keep ingredients super fresh. It’s well worth investing in these, but they do need to be washed and ‘taken care’ of, which make the plastic containers a more practical choice for many.

IMMERSION BLENDER: We prefer one that comes with the extra whisk attachment so you can have a tool for meringues and cakes as well. This is a wonderful 2-in-1 tool that will save you the need to purchase a hand blender or standing mixer.

ZIPLOC BAGS: Make sure to stock up on the freezer safe ones so you can quickly store extras of anything for later use. Ziploc bags are wonderful for freezing dishes like roasted vegetables and chicken or fish patties. They are also indispensable on family outings during the week for cut fruit or vegetables, snacks, hard boiled eggs, etc. ICE CUBE TRAYS: Ice cube trays are useful for more than freezing water. Use the silicone trays to freeze leftover wine, pesto cubes, or golden onions to quickly add to dishes.

Extras Fun to have around. Useful for specific tasks. Worth it for a long term, or gourmet, Pesach kitchen.

Cutting boards

WOODEN CUTTING BOARD WITH LIP: slicing roasts and chicken

OULTRY CUTTING BOARD: P For Pesach we prefer the inexpensive plastic cutting boards that you can even throw away after Pesach. You can find them for a dollar or two at your local variety or dollar store. PRODUCE PREP CUTTING BOARD OPTIONAL: If you will prepare a lot of fish during Pesach, it is best to have a fourth (plastic) board for this use. If not, use the wooden cutting board for fish purposes. To make life easy, purchase a set of boards with designated purposes.

MICROPLANE: Beyond zesting citrus to add flavor to curds, salad dressing and desserts, a microplane can be used to grate garlic, ginger and shallots. MANDOLINE: If you are into presentation, a mandoline thinly slices vegetables to even perfection. A great tool for vegetable gratins and making the best root vegetable chips. SOUS VIDE MACHINE: The sous vide evenly cooks steak, chicken, duck, eggs and fruits and vegetables. Beyond that, it is a handy gadget to take on your travels as it can work to heat up frozen meals too.

PIPING BAG: We use Ziploc bags to pipe the meringues you see on pg. 87. If you would like to amp up your meringues or pipe chocolate mousse into dessert cups, it's worth purchasing some piping bags with icing tips to create unique designs and shapes. JULIENNE PEELER: The OXO julienne peeler creates noodles from almost anything, creating zucchini noodles and julienned vegetables for salads or kugels. ICE CREAM MAKER: Great for sorbets and ice cream, a worthwhile investment for those who plan to make Pesach for many years and don’t buy much in the way of processed foods.

IDEAL FOR TRAVEL OR MINIMAL COOKING: INSTANT POT This is the ultimate travel pot for the kosher consumer. You can make pretty much anything in here. One pot, countless dishes from stews, to soups, to eggs...literally everything. You can pressure cook in it, so meals are ready in a pinch , or throw in some frozen already cooked food and use it to defrost your lunches and dinners. You can also boil eggs, caramelize onions or make stew, or prepare a deliciously savory chicken in under 30 minutes.

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10 BASICS

our TOP R E C O M M E N D A T I O N S

INSTANT POT DUO PLUS 6-QUART 9-IN-1 $99 www.amazon.com

Put your best tools forward

CUISINART 14-CUP FOOD PROCESSOR $168 www.amazon.com

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OXO GOOD GRIPSÂ® JULIENNE PEELER $9.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com

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ANOVA PRECISION SOUS VIDE COOKER WITH WIFI $159 www.williams-sonoma.com

BASICS

VICTORINOX PARING KNIFE $6.79 www.kettleandcord.com

BENRINER MANDOLINE SLICER

$59 www.williams-sonoma.com

7 10 6 LODGE CAST IRON 9” SKILLET

$16 www.homedepot.com

JOSEPH JOSEPH® 4-PIECE INDEX™ COLORCODED CUTTING BOARD SET $49.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com

SHUN 8” CLASSIC HOLLOWGROUND CHEF’S KNIVES $206 www.williamssonoma.com

KITCHENAID 3-SPEED IMMERSION BLENDER

Includes 3-cup blending jar with whisk and chopper attachments. $45 www.amazon.com

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH

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WHEN ISREAL GIVES YOU LEMONS...DRINK IT COLD! KOSHER FOR PASSOVER

5% Alc.

AVAILABLE WHEREVER GOOD BOOZE IS SOLD

A CELEBRATION OF FISH

An Evening with Miki Broide BY DANIELLE RENOV

THE BEST OF ISRAEL DINNER 30

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Fine dining is an abstract concept I have yet to have truly experience in the world of kosher. Yes, there's been the occasional exceptional meal in a distant state or foreign country that has blown me away, but for the most part, fine dining has been elusive. Fine dining—aside from providing exquisite, thoughtful, meaningful and delicious food—is also about the experience. Recently, at a dinner prepared by non-chef, diamond-dealer Miki Broide, I sampled what a true fine dining experience is. I was very unsure of what to expect when I received an invitation via Instagram from Fleishigs Magazine. There were few details—I didn’t know who else would be there, who would be cooking the food, or even what type of food to expect. During the one hour drive to Ramat Gan, my biggest concern was which food establishment would be open late enough for me to stop on the way home, in case we left hungry. Well, hunger was the furthest thing from my mind on the drive back home. My stomach probably didn’t grumble again for the forty-eight hours after that unforgettable meal. The evening was a complete sensory experience. The food was equally as beautiful as the house that the dinner took place in—

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The sights and smells were only outdone by the star of the evening, the food.

right out of a Northern Italian architectural magazine. The furniture was a rich heavy wood, perfectly balanced with artfully curated accessories that peppered little nooks and crannies. The exposed pipes brought in modern touches that stopped the house from feeling like a museum, and the handmade ceramic dishes covering the unclothed dining room table were a food blogger’s dream. A huge aspect of the ambiance was the company. I was surrounded by some of my favorite colleagues—cookbook legend Adeena Sussman; blogger

and Crave chef, Ahuva Schwartz of @TheKatamonKitchen; executive editor of JamieGeller. com and creator of “Fresh Families,” Tamar Genger; Chef Yos Schwartz of Hassid + Hipster; and of course, Shifra and Shlomo Klein of Fleishigs. After the initial shock of walking through a perfectly manicured outdoor garden into the most unexpectedly stunning home, the next thing I experienced was the smell wafting from the kitchen. It was a mixture of warm bread, an overflow of the freshest (and actually difficult to find here in

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ABOUT MIKI BROIDE: I loved and appreciated the fact that he used only Israeli wines throughout the entire night. Israel) produce, and a slightly salty undertone from the straightfrom-the-sea fish that was being sliced as we came in. It was hard not to take a bite right out of the air. The sights and smells were only outdone by the star of the evening, the food. It kept coming, course after magnificent course. The meal started with a selection of five or six different forms of well-seasoned, flavorful fresh fish—acidic crudo, tartare, all accompanied by delicious vegetable tapas. There were house-made olives that had been hand picked and cured weeks before, the most addictive, meltin-your-mouth leek confit I have ever tasted, and simple, flavorful dips. Such an abundance covered the table that I was sure this was a one-course tasting experience. I was wrong. It was simply (although there was nothing simple about it) the first of many, many delicious dishes. Broide’s first course, the raw fish portion of the evening, was followed with an Italian take on Moroccan fish. He served a well-seared piece of striped bass over a light tomato broth. Then we went on to a multi-dimensional “beef-fest”— cuts of meat that I have yet to see anywhere else in Israel cooked just the way I like them. (In case you were wondering, it’s with a heavy hand of salt, pepper, and seared in a hot pan to achieve that caramelized crust on the outside with a juicy pink center.) When I tell you that there was

a kanafeh-inspired dessert, I say it with utter shock because non-dairy desserts do not have the best reputation. There is the occasional restaurant that makes one great option, but, if we are being honest, it only feels great because our expectations are Dead Sea-level low. This was not one of those desserts. Miki served a velvety halva ice cream alongside crunchy strands of kadaif (shredded phyllo pastry), paired with a chocolate-covered dehydrated slice of blood orange and perfectly sweet raspberries. I know, my mouth is watering too. If the incredible food were not enough, Miki did an outstanding job as sommelier with wine pairings from his vast wine collection. I loved and appreciated the fact that he used only Israeli wines throughout the entire night, a real homage to the place we love most. The evening, from start to finish—from food to plating, company to host, decor to atmosphere—was absolute perfection. It was fine dining at its finest. Miki says he’s a nonchef, but the spread he put out was proof that he’s a actually a humble, crazy good chef who just shuns the title. It was literally one of the best meals of my life. (Now find your phone and start a cooking blog so that you can be invited to his next pop-up dinner. It’s worth it just for that!)

Miki Broide has been in the diamond business for over 25 years. He has always loved cooking, spending time in the kitchen, reading about food and discovering new, unique ingredients to add to his culinary experience. After getting married and having his own kitchen, Miki began exploring his passion for cooking with much success. A few years ago, he began his Instagram account @mikibroide, and started to share his culinary adventures and vast expertise. Miki loves to throw dinner parties, and what started out as friends gathering together, quickly turned into dinner popups where diners looking for a unique experience are able to purchase a spot at Miki’s table. His dinners are based in Ramat Gan, Israel and if a spot opens up while visiting, it is most definitely worth making time for. You can contact Miki via Instagram @mikibroide.

Famed food writer and cookbook author Adeena Sussman shares her thoughts on Miki's dinner. "Tucked away in a suburban neighborhood in Ramat Gan is one of the best kosher restaurants I have ever been to. I have had a lot of kosher and non kosher meat and that was some of the best meat I’ve had. The crudo was restaurant level. Beyond. Miki just seems like somebody who just loves feeding other people and his attention to detail was kind of crazy (in the best way). He works with foragers and seems like a culinary forager himself, sourcing the most unique ingredients one can find in Israel."

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH

PERSIMMON COD CEVICHE RECIPE BY MIKI BROIDE

Serves: 4-6 1 ½ pounds cod, cut into 1-inch cubes Juice of 4 limes Juice of 3 lemons ½ cup diced persimmons ¼ cup jalapeños, finely diced

¼ cup chopped cilantro ¼ cup chopped parsley Edible flowers (or herbs of choice), for garnish

Combine all ingredients. Marinate 30 minutes. To serve, use a cookie or biscuit cutter to create a round, even mound of ceviche. Top with edible flowers (or herbs).

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH

YELLOWTAIL SASHIMI RECIPE BY MIKI BROIDE

Serves: 4 Herb oil (recipe follows) 1 pound yellowtail or hamachi, thinly sliced (tip: freeze the fish for 20 minutes to make it easier to slice) Blood orange segments Fresh herb purée (recipe follows) Maldon salt (or any flaky variety) Drizzle herb oil onto platter. Lay yellowtail slices over oil. Top with orange segments and dollops of fresh herb purée. Finish with Maldon salt.

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HERB OIL Yields: 1 cup 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 bunch rosemary 1 bunch thyme ⅓ cup basil Place all ingredients in small pot and cook over very low heat for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and allow herbs and oil to cool completely at room temperature. Once the mixture reaches room temperature, strain oil and discard herbs. Store covered in the refrigerator for a month.

FRESH HERB PURÉE Yields: 1 cup 2 cups parsley 1 cup basil Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add parsley and basil and cook for 60 seconds. Shock by transferring the herbs to a bowl of ice water. Strain and blend into a purée.

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TRADITION IN A LIMITED EDITION

Carmel Limited Edition is the Carmel Winery's flagship wine, produced in limited quantity. The wine is a traditional Bordeaux style blend, integrating classic Bordeaux varietals. Only Carmel's superior vineyards are chosen for this prestigious wine, the emphasis being on elegance and harmony.

A CELEBRATION OF FISH

CHRAIME RECIPE BY MIKI BROIDE

CHRAIME IS A MOROCCAN RICH, SPICY, TOMATOBASED FISH STEW. MIKIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S VERSION OF CHRAIME TAKES INSPIRATION FROM THE CLASSIC, BUT HE SWITCHES IT UP BY SIMPLY SEARING THE FISH AND SERVING IT ON TOP OF A DELICIOUS LIGHTLY-COOKED TOMATO SAUCE. IT'S FRESH, SIMPLE, YET SO COMPLEX.

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH

MIKI RECOMMENDS USING THE BEST AND SWEETEST (PREFERABLY ORGANIC) TOMATOES YOU CAN FIND. WHEN COOKING SIMPLE FOOD USING MINIMAL INGREDIENTS, IT IS CRUCIAL THAT EACH INGREDIENT BE OF THE BEST QUALITY POSSIBLE.

6 striped bass fillets, skin on 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 2 pints cherry tomatoes 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon cumin Additional salt and pepper, to taste Heat a cast iron pan over medium-high heat. Pat fillets dry with paper towels, and season with salt and pepper. Pour oil into pan and sear fish for 4 minutes, skin side down. Using a fish spatula, flip and cook fish an additional 2 minutes. In a separate pan, heat olive oil over low heat. Add garlic, cumin and tomatoes and cook until tomatoes just start to break down. Season with salt to taste and add a pinch of black pepper and/or sugar to your liking.

APRIL 2019

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH

NEXT LEVEL SALMON TARTARE RECIPE BY CHEF AVNER GUZMAN Serves: 4 The subtle touches to this salmon tartare showcase French technique and inspiration. Curing the salmon for just a short while, mixing and seasoning the fish separately from the salad, and the addition of capers and cumin seeds show how simple recipes with strong technique can lead to complex flavors. Tartare 1 pound salmon, skin removed ⅓ cup salt ⅓ cup sugar Zest of 2 limes Zest of 2 lemons ½ cup chopped chives 1 teaspoon crushed pink peppercorns (optional) Salad 2 kiwis, diced 1 Granny Smith apple, diced ¼ cup capers, chopped 1 teaspoon cumin seeds* (optional) ⅓ cup finely diced red onion ⅓ cup chopped scallions 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Romaine lettuce, for garnish Baby arugula, for garnish Kiwi rounds, for garnish *Some consider cumin to be kitniyot. Tartare Combine salt and sugar and rub all over salmon. Add zest of one lemon and lime over salt cure. Place in fridge for 30-60 minutes for a quick cure. Remove salmon from fridge and rinse off cure in cold water. Finely dice salmon. Mix with chives and zest of remaining lime and lemon. Salad In a separate bowl, combine kiwi, apple, capers, cumin seeds (if using), red onions, scallions, and olive oil. Layer ⅓ cup of salad and top with ⅓ cup of salmon tartare. Garnish with lettuce, arugula, and kiwi rounds.

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Chef Guzman is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef from Venezuela with vast restaurant experience, having worked throughout Europe in both kosher and nonkosher restaurants. He specifically has special affection for Asian, Spanish and South American cuisine, knowledge he utilizes in his daily life. His personal cooking style combines those passions with his classical French training. The tartare recipe that Chef Guzman shared with us, for example, has classical elements in knife cuts and approach, but he adds some personality with kiwi, capers and cumin seeds. Chef Guzman visited Fleishigs headquarters and as we discussed Pesach, his attitude about it was inspiring and perfectly on track with our theme. “Look at Pesach as an opportunity once a year to bring back ancient traditions rather than focusing on the prohibitions. Pesach is about expressing your Jewish identity while embracing the cooking as a creative culinary experience.” He is constantly seeking to learn and grow as a chef; his humble, pleasant personality is unexpected from a chef of such a high caliber. When he became more religious, Chef Guzman began studying the laws of kashrut with Rav Shmuel Levy from Créteil, Paris. He shares that he enjoyed the learning process and sees the amazing opportunities kosher brings without focusing on its limitations. He shares that growing up by the sea gives one a sense of liberty, richness and curiosity to experiment with the infinite options that food offers.

SIMPLE RECIPES WITH STRONG TECHNIQUE CAN LEAD TO COMPLEX FLAVORS.

Chef Guzman currently lives in Venezuela with his family and works on creating private dinners worldwide and consulting for kosher restaurants. He is currently working with Eli Gauthier from Cantina Giuliano (which we featured in the travel section of our February issue) as partners in an upcoming Pesach program in Tuscany.

APRIL 2019

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH Cooking fish is like skydiving—exciting, thrilling, and a bit daunting. Overstating fish cookery? Maybe, but once you master this skill, the fastest cooking, most versatile and delicious lean protein will be at your bidding. Read all about purchasing, storing and cooking fish below.

When purchasing salmon, halibut, or bass, ask for fillets that are at least one-inch thick. Thicker fillets are easier to cook and don't dry out as easily. Be sure to tell your fishmonger that you do not want the tail portion. Because of how thin it is, it overcooks easily. Most fish purchased at grocery stores or fish markets comes deboned and the skin can either be on or off. The skin adds crispy texture if cooked properly and helps hold the fish together, especially with a delicate fish like sole.

STORING

Basic rule of thumb is to use the fresh fish as soon as possible. However, if you want to store it for a day or two, package the fish in a reusable storage bag when you get

Fish is easily and often served roasted. I also love pan-basting (spooning hot oil and butter over it), frying, poaching, or grilling fish. With a few exceptions, fish is versatile and most types can be prepared in multiple ways. Wild salmon, which is in season from late spring through mid-fall, is delicious roasted, poached, and grilled—but it’s not so great fried. Because of how fatty it is, the salmon takes on a weird texture when cooked at high heat; the delicious natural fat (hello omega 3’s!) actually gets squeezed out and the fish dries out. Lean fishes, on the other hand, such as cod, halibut, or snapper, are great fried and not so great poached. While salmon is best served rare or medium-rare, halibut and cod need to be cooked all the way through. As far as fresh tuna, it can be prepared in many similar applications to salmon and has the added benefit of being available most of the year.

A FINAL THOUGHT

While the culinary police will not fine you or haul you off, it is taboo to put cheese on fish.

BY CHEF LAURA FRANKEL

There are a few things to look out for at the shop. You want your fillets to be glossy, firm, and smell like the sea— not fishy. If it’s already packaged or behind the counter, ask the fishmonger if you can smell the fish—don’t worry, I do it too. If you are looking for a whole fish, check that the eyes are shiny and that the gills are bright red.

Fish is never, ever baked. I know everyone says it, but can we get one thing straight? Baking is a term that refers to taking mostly liquid ingredients (like batter or dough) and transforming it into a solid item (such as cakes and cookies). Fish, chicken, and vegetables are roasted.

Fish 101

As with everything, the results come from the best ingredients. I always recommend starting with wild or seasonal fish. Fish that is in-season will be fresh—at its peak flavor and texture—and often wellpriced. And wild fish is just better, period. They swim freely and eat what they find in the nature around them. That means no antibiotics, growth hormones, or coloring agents. As an added bonus, the flesh of wild fish is briny and delicious. I’d rather deal with frozen wild fish than the fresh, farmed kind. That says it right there.

COOKING

A Sea of Ch oices:

PURCHASING

home from the grocery store or fish market; then put that bag in a pan of ice in the coldest part of the refrigerator. It should keep your fish fresh for another day or two.

Most fish have delicate, mild flavors. Their taste is supposed to be reminiscent of the sea, which is why fish should be consumed as close to the catch as possible. Fish is served simply for the same reason. The rich, salty, and often strong flavors of cheese can overwhelm the flavors of fish—forcing a contrast that sacrifices the integrity of both ingredients. In places like Italy and France, grating cheese over fish pasta is considered either extraneous and excessive. Check the menu next time you’re out; there’s a reason dishes with cheese and fish are nonexistent in good restaurants (ones where there is an actual chef) or in any Italian or French cook’s repertoire.

Laura Frankel is a kosher chef, author, and restaurateur. Laura is the author of Jewish Cooking for All Seasons, and Jewish Slow Cooker Recipes. Laura is the founder and former Executive Chef of Shallots restaurants in Chicago, Executive Chef at Wolfgang Puck Kosher Catering and was the Executive Chef at the Spertus Institute for Jewish Learning & Leadership in Chicago. Laura’s work as Culinary Director of JamieGeller.com introduced a fresh, modern batch of Jewish recipes to readers worldwide. Follow her cooking adventure on Facebook @laurafrankel or Instagram @cheflaura2. 42

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A CELEBRATION OF FISH

POACHED SALMON RECIPE BY LAURA FRANKEL

Serves: 6 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 shallots, sliced 2 carrots, sliced 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved 2 medium zucchini, sliced 2 cloves garlic, sliced 2-inch piece of ginger ½ cup fresh dill 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups water 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 6 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skinned Preheat oven to 300°F. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add oil and sauté shallots and carrots, stirring occasionally until vegetables have softened, about 20 minutes. Add tomatoes, zucchini, garlic, ginger, dill, wine, water, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Turn off heat and add salmon to the pan, gently submerging salmon into liquid. Place Dutch oven into the preheated oven and cook uncovered for about 10 minutes. Allow the dish to cool before gently transferring salmon to a serving platter. Spoon vegetables and some of the poaching liquid around the fish.

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VEGETABLES & SIDES

I was that kid who couldn’t sit through the seder and ended up in the kitchen on blintz duty. While the family sang their way through the Haggadah, I hung out with my mother or bubby, listening to their constant reminders to cut the blintzes thinner, thinner, thinner for the soup noodles. Somehow the fear of slicing my fingers made it all the more exciting. Those times in the Pesach kitchen were family time. It was when we laughed and joked together, and it was when I would peek through our heimish cookbook, pages tearing and falling out of the binder, with notes added in the various handwritings of whomever it was passed through. In a similar fashion to how she had learned, my grandmother taught me the basics of blintzes and, over the years, I learned how to add my own notes.

BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN

As a young chef and baker, long before I discovered Pesach programs, Pesach was always a homecoming for me. It was the time when kosher restaurants weren’t open and, as a baker, I couldn’t work for eight days. Food is what marked the holiday as different from the others. What we were eating involved ingredients that were much simpler, that had to be prepared using less equipment, and often in smaller spaces. It was a time when the family gathered in the kitchen and all contributed to the meal.

A Modern Heimish Approach to Pesach

ACK TO ASICS I look at blintzes as great chameleons of flavor. Use chicken stock to make them more savory, add sugar and almond milk to make them sweeter; use a thicker layer of batter to make lasagna noodles or spread the batter thinly to have delicate pasta sheets to add to your soup; cut them into narrow strips, like my grandmother taught me during the sedarim, or slice them wide and toss them with a ragu.

Blintz Recipe

Over the years, I have enhanced Pesach classics with subtle updates. Tomato paste, for example, transforms when you toast it. Cooking tomato paste until it caramelizes enhances the rich, sweet flavor and adds something really special to classics like meat ragu and cholent. It is a base ingredients that no Pesach kitchen should be without.

to create a different vibe for

You don't only have Pesach to make these recipes. Almost all of the ingredients are available everywhere, pretty much year round. So don’t pressure yourself to make them all during the week of madness. Do what works for you—keep it simple, and focus on what really matters over the holiday, family.

Chef Isaac is a restaurant and food consultant who produces exclusive culinary events. You can follow Chef Isaac's food adventures @chefisaacb on Instagram.

Yields: 12 blintzes

This is an all-purpose

recipe that can be used with anything from a

sweet cheese to a savory meat filling. You can add

ingredients like scallions,

black pepper, or cinnamon

the crepes and use them in different preparations. 4 eggs ¼ cup potato starch ⅓ cup water

Mix eggs and potato starch in a blender until smooth. Slowly add the water and mix until smooth. Heat a frying pan with a smear of oil on medium heat and pour in ¼ cupfuls of batter into pan. Swirl batter to create a thin crepe and fry until just firm. Flip and continue to cook an additional minute. Remove from pan and cool. Slice into noodles or use as blintzes/crepes. APRIL 2019

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VEGETABLES & SIDES

BRAISED CHUCK MEAT BLINTZES 48

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VEGETABLES & SIDES

Braised Chuck Meat Blintzes RECIPE BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN Serves: 8 I use this recipe as a filling for my meat knishes, but really it’s a wonderful basic roast that you can serve as is, mix into pasta or use a topping in soups. Alternatively, serve the shredded chuck roast topped with a vegetable purée. As an added bonus, this versatile recipe freezes well, either as a roast or already prepared into blintzes. 3-4 pounds chuck eye or flanken short ribs 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil, divided 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 large onion, diced 3 carrots, peeled and diced 3 stalks celery, peeled and diced 3 tablespoons roasted tomato paste (precipe pg. 21) 3 cups beef stock 8 blintzes (recipe pg. 49) ½ cup red onion balsamic marmalade (recipe pg. 21) Balsamic reduction, for garnish Heat a pot over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil. Rub salt and pepper over meat and sear until golden brown, about 8 minutes per side. Remove meat from pot and set aside. Drizzle in remaining tablespoon of oil and add onions, carrots, and celery. Lower heat and sauté until softened, about 15 minutes. Coat vegetables with roasted tomato paste and cook an additional 5 minutes. Place meat in pot (or place vegetables and meat in 9x13 pan) and pour enough beef stock to cover ⅔ of roast. Cover well and simmer on low heat or cook in a 350°F oven for 3 hours. Once cooked, remove meat from pot or pan and shred. Place shredded meat back in sauce and cook on a medium flame until the sauce is reduced to a syrup and coats meat well. Fold onions into shredded meat. When cool enough to handle, place ¼ cup of meat in lower center of crepe and roll as you would a blintz or egg roll, by folding the edge closest to you over the filling, then folding in the sides, and finishing by rolling the crepe to seal. Garnish with balsamic reduction and additional balsamic onions.

VEGETABLE GRATIN RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN

Serves: 8 I just had to add one more marorinspired recipe to the mix. The truth is, I have made this recipe without horseradish and it always comes out great. So if you have some extra horseradish and like the flavor, go for it. If not, you can totally skip that aspect and make this classic side dish, which pairs perfectly with a simple roasted chicken. Gratin 1 Spanish onion, thinly sliced 1 bulb fennel, thinly sliced (optional, but delicious) ⅓ cup shmaltz or oil ¼ cup white wine 3 cups chicken stock 1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, thinly sliced 1 pound sweet potatoes, thinly sliced 1 pound parsnips, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided Topping 1 cup grated horseradish 1 cup almond meal 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup chopped chives 2 tablespoons cold schmaltz

Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat shmaltz in large sauté or frying pan. Cook onions and fennel with 1 teaspoon salt on medium-low heat for 30 minutes. Add white wine and bring to a boil. Add chicken stock and simmer for 10 minutes. (Taste to check for seasoning. You may need to add a pinch of salt.) Lay out sliced vegetables in 9” oven-to-table dish or baking pan. Sprinkle remaining salt over vegetables. Pour the onion-wine mixture over the vegetables. Cover and cook for 45 minutes. To prepare topping, combine horseradish, almond meal, salt, chives, and shmaltz until it just comes together. Using cold schmaltz helps the mixture resembles a streusel; coconut oil would be a good alternative. Uncover the cooked gratin and sprinkle horseradish crumble on top. Cook an additional 15 minutes, uncovered, until golden brown.

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JICAMA MANGO SALAD RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN This salad works as a wonderful side dish or salad. Finely chop all the ingredients and add fish—and you have a ceviche. The recipe will store well for up to two days. If you do prepare it in advance, I recommend adding mango the day of. For added presentation, dice the vegetables into even cubes or slice each vegetable differently. 1 large jicama, peeled and julienned into matchsticks 1 bunch radish, sliced into rounds 2 mangos, diced into 1-inch cubes ½ cup cilantro or basil, finely minced (optional) ¼ cup lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil 2 teaspoons honey 1 teaspoon kosher salt Combine the jicama, radish, and mango into a bowl. Mix with fresh herbs, if using. Combine lemon juice, olive oil, honey, and salt. Pour over vegetables.

ROASTED BONE MARROW POTATO RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN Serves: 8 When fellow chef Bracha Serle was once helping me with some catering, we had a ton of marrow bones and potatoes left over after a long day of cooking. We roasted them together on a big baking sheet—and the results were spectacular. 8 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered 8 marrow bones 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 2 tablespoons tomato paste

Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Place potatoes and marrow bones in a large bowl. Season with spices and tomato paste. Mix well to coat. Divide potato mixture between prepared baking sheets. Cover with foil and cook for 1 hour. Increase oven temperature to 400°F. Uncover baking sheets and cook 15 more minutes, until golden brown. Remove from oven and allow to cool. When cool, scoop out the marrow and discard the bones. Toss marrow with potatoes. Keep warm in oven until serving.

Shifra’s Note: Pesach queen and cookbook author Naomi Nachman recently released her second book, Perfect Flavors, a non-Pesach recipe collection inspired by her travels. While many of our readers expressed their desire for no potato recipes, I personally enjoyed these potatoes at Naomi’s beautiful Shabbos table and had to share this treasure (and Naomi’s book) with the world. APRIL 2019

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RECIPE BY MIKI BROIDE Serves: 8 4 cups assorted mushrooms 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and thinly sliced Oil, for frying Salt and pepper, to taste 6 cups mixed greens ⅓ cup basic vinaigrette (recipe on pg. 21) Preheat oven to 400°F. Coat mushrooms in oil, salt, and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes. While mushrooms are roasting, heat oil in a large pot to 355°F and fry Jerusalem artichokes for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Dress greens with vinaigrette. Top with mushrooms and Jerusalem artichoke chips. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Jerusalem artichokes are a tuberous root vegetable that ironically are not related to either Jerusalem or artichokes. They are alternatively referred to as sunroot or sunchoke and look like small potatoes but have a much sweeter taste. They are high in potassium and iron and are delicious roasted or fried.

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RECIPE BY CHAYA RAPPOPORT

MUSHROOM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SALAD

VEGETABLES & SIDES

ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLE SALAD Serves: 8 This side dish/salad hybrid defines simple cooking. During the photoshoot for this issue, Fleishigs’ food stylist, Chaya Rappoport, threw some root vegetables onto the sheet tray with the Danielle’s maror-crusted rib roast. The original intention was to add an element of color and lifestyle, but when we used the roasted vegetables to top some greens, the results were spectacular. The root vegetables had absorbed flavor from the roast, which translated well onto the greens as well—no dressing necessary. 1 pound rainbow carrots 1 pound baby potatoes 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 4 cups baby greens Preheat oven to 425°F. Coat vegetables in oil, salt, and pepper. Place on baking sheet (on its own, or as mentioned, with chicken or rib roast) and roast for 40 minutes. Serve over greens. w w w.f leishigs.com

YAPCHIK

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YAPCHIK

By Shifra Klein

Yapchik is a potato kugel-cholent hybrid that is a beloved comfort food to many. There are many variations and techniques involved in creating this hearty dish of overnight kugel flecked with tender, juicy beef; we shared our favorite version in last month’s #kiddushissue of Fleishigs.

k i h

Danielle Renov from @peaslovencarrots, our guest editor this month, generously arranged a visit to her mother’s kitchen so that we could see the process her mother, Nicole Gleitman, uses to make her nextlevel yapchik. Watching someone make a dish gives far more inspiration than just reading a recipe can. When Nicole welcomed us through the front door, everything was already prepared and ready to go—a true balabusta. There was a positive, happy vibe in the kitchen that put everyone at ease and gave us a clue as to where Danielle found her famously positive disposition.

“My friends run for this,” Danielle’s dad, Marc, (who is well known on Danielle’s Instagram “Driving with Dad” series) shared as his wife layered the yapchik. “Just last week, I invited my friend to a kiddush at my house and his first question was ‘is Nicole making her yapchik?’ When I told him that she was, he gave me a big hug.” So what is it about Nicole’s yapchik that makes it such a hot topic? Considering that she is of Moroccan descent, has a strong Moroccan recipe arsenal, and actually only began cooking a few years after she got married—her heimishe yapchik recipe is all the more intriguing. Nicole first tasted yapchik years ago and fell in love, so she asked a caterer friend for a recipe, which became the basis of Nicole’s current creation. “I added a little Sephardi here and there,” Nicole shares. Over the years, she’s put her own

WATCHING HER PREPARE THE YAPCHIK WAS A STRONG LESSON IN WHAT COOKING WITH LOVE IS ALL ABOUT.

Moroccan spin on it. Adding knee bones—a Moroccan staple used in couscous broths and sauces because the natural collagen in the bones add flavor and viscosity—is one such addition. The recipe also has cayenne and black pepper, as well as two whole heads of garlic—all ingredients not typical to traditional yapchik, yet they work so well. We can thank Nicole’s Sephardic roots for these special additions. The most impactful adjustment in Nicole’s yapchik is the lots and lots of caramelized onions that she adds. They are a spectacular addition to any Pesach pantry. (Danielle shares her recipe and extols its virtues on pg. 23.) Apparently the love of golden onions runs in the family and we can see why. As she whisked the eggs, added spices, and mixed in potatoes, Nicole kept tasting the batter to ensure proper seasoning. “The more pepper, the better,” Nicole said as she sprinkled an additional half teaspoon into the mix. Cooking good food is about a level of passion and care that Nicole exuded from beginning to end. Watching her prepare the yapchik was a strong lesson in what cooking with love is all about.

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OPTIONAL: ADD A ROLL OF KISHKA*, WRAPPED IN FOIL AND PLACE IN CENTER OF YAPCHIK. *NICOLE USED THE MEAL MART BRAND.

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s ’ é m é M pchik Ya

YAPCHIK

Recipe by Nicole Gleitman

Serves: 20

8-10 pounds potatoes, peeled 2 eggs 1 tablespoon (no MSG) chicken consommé powder 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1-2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 8 marrow bones 4 knee bones 2 cups golden onions (recipe can be found on pg. 23) 4 pounds flanken with bones (or beef stew or a mix of both) 2 heads garlic 1 tablespoon honey Nonstick cooking spray Preheat oven to 325˚F. Grease an 11x16 pan with oil or cooking spray. Set aside. In a food processor, grate the potatoes using the shredding disc attachment. Whisk eggs together and mix in chicken consommé, pepper, salt, and cayenne pepper. Combine with potatoes. Place bones on bottom of pan and top with half the potato mixture. Top with ¾ cup golden onions, all the flanken (or beef stew), then cover meat with ⅓ cup onions and the remaining potatoes. Pour any residual liquid from the eggs and potatoes over the mixture. Top potatoes with remaining onions. Nestle the heads of garlic on top and drizzle honey over the entire surface. Spray nonstick cooking spray over the aluminum foil you will use to cover the pan. Cover pan tightly with foil and place in oven. Bake for 3 hours. Lower oven to 200˚F and bake 12-24 hours. Serve immediately.

IMPORTANT NOTES Proper pan depth is key. You need a deep one for this recipe because of all the layering that goes on. The base is all bones, which in itself is about three inches. When grating the potatoes, there are usually some chunks that do not get grated. Save those and add to the bottom of the pan along with the bones; they’ll break down during the overnight cooking time. If you do not use garlic on Pesach, you can skip. The yapchik will still taste amazing. Add a few eggs to the mix and this recipe makes a classic potato kugel. The type of potato is not that important. Nicole uses a mix or the large bags available at her local Costco.

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SOUPS

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SOUPS

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p u o s

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SOUPS

Roasted Sweet Potato Soup RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Serves: 6 This is a no-stock soup that achieves its intense flavors from roasting the vegetables before puréeing. 1 ½ pounds sweet potatoes ½ pound carrots ⅓ cup olive oil 2 teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 5-6 cups water Preheat oven to 375°F. Peel vegetables and roughly chop into even pieces. Toss vegetables with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast until vegetables are golden brown and tender, about 40 minutes. Blend vegetables with 5 cups of water. Add ¼ cup water at a time to achieve desired consistency. Add additional salt and pepper to taste. At this point, you can store the soup for later use or serve. To serve, place in medium pot and heat over medium heat. Serve warm topped with sweet potato chips. Note: Freezes well.

Basic Chicken Soup RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Serves: 10 You can use this recipe to serve as a proper chicken soup or use chicken broth in recipes. The soup freezes well. 2 bone-in, skin on chicken breasts 1 large onion 4 carrots, peeled 1 medium parsnip, peeled 1 celery root, peeled 1 cup mixed herbs (parsley and dill), optional 1 tablespoon kosher salt Bring ingredients to a boil. Simmer, mostly covered, for 2 hours. Pro tip: Use the strained broth to make soup of choice. Simply roast 2 pounds of your favorite root vegetables and purée with 4 cups of chicken broth.

Meaty Potato Soup RECIPE BY DANIELLE RENOV Serves: 12 2 pounds bone-in flanken 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 teaspoon coarse black pepper, plus more to taste 2 teaspoons olive oil, divided 2 cups deeply golden sautéed onions (see recipe pg. 23) 1 cup dry white wine 5 pounds potatoes, peeled and large- diced 12-14 cups chickenstock

Heat ½ teaspoon oil in a large pot over high heat. Season flanken with salt and pepper. Add flanken to pot and brown about 2 minutes per side. Remove meat from pot and set aside. Add remaining oil and onions to pot. Cook for just 2 minutes, until onions are heated through (since they are already cooked!). Pour wine into onions and stir, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook for 2 minutes. Place flanken into a mesh soup bag (this will make it easier to remove before blending). Return meat to the pot and add potatoes and 12 cups chicken

stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 1-1 ½ hours. Remove meat and blend soup using an immersion blender. If soup is too thick, add chicken stock ½ a cup at a time, until it's a consistency you like. Return meat to soup. Continue to cook soup on low heat, stirring often, until meat is tender. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste. Serve soup hot and enjoy!

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CONSULTING

KEE

BY NAOMI NACHMAN

FREEZING BASICS

P IN

Carry-over heat will continue to cook, and dry out any meat still in the oven.

While defrosting in the oven, keep an eye on the food at all times as it can easily dry out if left in too long.

Meat

Defrost the cooked meat in the fridge one day before serving. Up to an hour before the meal, place the meat, covered, into the oven at 250°F until the center is warmed through. Be careful that the meat doesn’t dry out. Some cuts of meat such as shoulder roast, London Broil, duck and lamb are best served on the rarer side. If you prefer the meat welldone, leave it in the oven until it is no longer pink in the center. Keep in mind that even once the oven is turned off the carryover heat will continue to cook, and dry out, any meat still in the oven.

Chicken and Kugel

Don’t let the chicken or kugel defrost when you take it out of the freezer or it may become soggy. These are always best defrosted straight from the freezer to an oven set at a low to medium temperature (250-275°F). Once in the oven, keep covered for the first hour until warmed through, then uncover the kugel or chicken to help it crisp up. I always baste the chicken with the sauce once or twice during the rewarming process.

Soup and Meatballs

Take the container out of the freezer the night before if serving for lunch (or in the morning, if you are planning to serve the soup for dinner) and put it in the fridge. If you forget to defrost your soup or meatballs ahead of time, take off the cover and run the container under hot water to release the frozen food. Place into a pot on the stove over low heat until it thaws, then turn up heat and stir until it reaches a boil. Once it’s heated through, taste the soup or meatballs, and season if needed. Each quart of soup usually serves four people.

1 2. 6 TO

MONTH

Defrosting Guidelines

MY GENERAL RULE IS

cooked fish can be frozen for up to one month, chicken for up to three months, and meat for up to six months.

Make sure freezer doors are tightly closed (you’d be surprised how often something gets caught in the door, breaking the seal).

Everything in the freezer should be covered with heavy duty foil or double-wrapped in regular foil; it's a good idea to then place it in a Ziploc bag, labeled with item's name and date.

Freezing Basics is excerpted from Naomi Nachman’s Perfect for Pesach cookbook (ArtScroll Shaar Press, 2017). In her premiere book, Naomi shares popular recipes from over two decades of Pesach catering. The book was driven by a passion to get cooks “as excited about cooking Pesach as I am.” Naomi recently published her second book, Perfect Flavors, a collection of (non-Pesach) recipes curated from her travels. You can follow more of Naomi’s food adventures on Instagram @NaomiNachman. 64

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For those with higher standards.â&#x201E;

Four H o From urs Field to Pee led.

Sourced from Spain, where the warm sunny days and cool, refreshing nights produce a firm, deeply purple treat. Each beet is picked, blanched, peeled, and cooked fresh from the field in less than four hours, to ensure a naturally sweet taste with no earthy flavor.

The beet is on!

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BUTCHER'S CUT

I T ’S A D EL

I G H T.

The Versatile

French Roast BY NAF HANAU

Cook it high and hot or low and slow—either way, it’s a delight. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered, premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechitah before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb, and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com/fleishigs. APRIL 2019

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BUTCHER'S CUT

What is French Roast?

NOT JU S

'S IT

CO FFEE

et’s talk about French roast (and not the coffee). This tender, fan-shaped roast from the chuck is richly marbled, extremely flavorful, and unusually versatile. A high-quality French roast can be cooked over high heat like a rib roast, braised like a brisket, or cut into portions to serve like boneless short ribs. Unlike other roasts from the chuck, such as a chuck roast or chuck pot roast, the marbling on a French roast is relatively fine, which means that the meat doesn’t pull or shred easily while it cooks and that the meat will baste evenly as it is cooked.

French roast can also be sectioned off before cooking. Denver steaks, which have seen a huge growth in popularity in the kosher market since we introduced them several years ago, are cut from one end of the French roast. Sear them on a grill pan or outdoor grill over high heat to build flavor in the crust, then move to indirect heat for 10-15 minutes to allow the steaks to relax and finish cooking.

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ROAST: Why roast over high heat? A roast cooked without liquid under medium or high heat will look good, smell good, taste good, and slice nicely at the table. A good French roast can give you the flavors and benefits of a high heat roast without the price tag of a prime rib. But, like all meat, the quality and provenance of your roast is critical, especially if you want to roast it. Follow a rib roast or shoulder roast recipe and cook to medium rare; as long as you allow it to rest for 10 minutes before serving, you’ll enjoy nicely-marbled and tender slices. w w w.f leishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

SOUS VIDE: Cooking a French roast in a sousvide and then searing the outside will give you a similar effect: tender meat, nicely seared crust, and beautifully-marbled slices that are easy to cut. Because the temperature change in sous-vide cooking is more subtle than in an oven, you don’t need to let the roast rest afterward.

BRAISE: You can also cut a French roast into individual portions to cook it like boneless short ribs, as cookbook author Adeena Sussman did recently at the South Beach Food & Wine Festival Shabbat Dinner. Season with salt and pepper, sear aggressively to build flavor, and braise with spices and aromatics until silky. (Adeena used a rich hawaij spice blend, which will be in her forthcoming cookbook, Sababa.) Cook the French roast for a shorter time if you want the pieces to stay intact, which looks more elegant; longer if you want meat that pulls apart more easily or shreds for tacos.

NAME CONFUSION? A NOTE ABOUT NAMES FOR KOSHER CUTS: Every butcher has their own. At Grow & Behold, we cut our French roasts from the top of the chuck and they’re shaped like a fan—an almost triangular-shaped roast with the muscle striations fanning out from the base towards the edge. You might also see this roast labeled as brick roast, Colorado roast, book roast, California roast, square roast… And to make it more complicated, you might find a roast cut from somewhere else in the chuck that is not fanshaped, yet still called a French roast. Your best bet is to check the shape of the roast and talk to your butcher directly about what you are looking for. Ask where the meat comes from and the best way to cook it, and always go for the best quality meat you can find.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Swe et &

REC

IPE

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

ur So

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n e Fr

h c

This roast is tender, the perfect balance of sweet and savory—a real crowd pleaser. It tastes best when made in advance and reheats incredibly well. You can swap out the French roast in this recipe for second-cut brisket or top of the rib. Serves: 10 1 (4-pound) French roast ¼ cup oil or schmaltz 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 large onion, sliced 3 carrots 1 cup chopped celery root ¼ cup tomato paste 1 cup sparkling white wine ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup honey 3 sprigs rosemary 2 cups dried apricots or 3 cups chopped fresh stone fruit (peaches, plums, or nectarines) 2 cinnamon sticks (optional) Water or broth, to cover Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil or schmaltz in Dutch oven. Rub salt and pepper all over roast and sear meat on all sides until golden brown. Remove roast from pot and set aside. Add onion, carrots, and celery root and sauté for about 15 minutes, until aromatic. Add tomato paste and rosemary and cook for 5 minutes on medium heat. Add wine to pan to deglaze and cook until wine reduces by half. Add apricots, broth or water, sugar, honey and seared French roast. Cover and cook for 3 hours. Remove from oven and allow to cool, covered. Uncover pan, slice, and return meat to liquid. At this point, you can reheat to serve, store in the fridge for 2-3 days or freeze for 2 months.

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4 cups mushrooms ¼ cup oil, divided 1 ½ teaspoon salt, divided 1 (4-pound) French roast 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 large onion 3 carrots 1 cup chopped celery root 2 cups chopped tomatoes, or 1 (16-ounce) can of chopped tomatoes 6 cloves garlic, smashed 1 tablespoon tomato paste 6 sprigs thyme 1 cup red wine 3 cups broth Preheat oven to 425°F. Coat mushrooms with 2 tablespoons oil and ½ teaspoon of salt and roast for 20 minutes. Set aside. Coat roast in salt and pepper. Heat oil in a Dutch oven (or large frying pan) and sear meat on all sides until golden brown. Remove roast from pan and set aside until sauce is ready. Sauté onions until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add carrots and celery root and sauté for another 10 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook until tomatoes break down, another 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and tomato paste and cook another 10 minutes. Add wine, broth, roasted mushrooms, and thyme and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer and add roast to pot. (You can also braise roast in a 9x13 pan if you do not have a Dutch oven. Just remember to seal tightly.) Cover, lower oven to 325°F, and cook for 3 ½ hours.

EIN

m R o o r oas h s u t M y

Serves: 8

F HI

S a v o r

My family doesn’t use celery on Pesach (as it can’t be peeled), so we’re constantly coming up with new ways to achieve layers of flavor. Celery root is a wonderful ingredient in general—so versatile, flavorful and lasts a long time. In this recipe, it adds a unique, subtle flavor to the roast. Roasting the mushrooms before adding them to the braising liquid enhances the mushroom flavor, but if you are in a hurry, add the mushrooms when you add the carrots and celery root to the pan.

BUTCHER'S CUT

Remove pot from oven and allow to cool completely before refrigerating overnight. Remove from fridge, skim off fat and slice meat. At this point, reheat to serve or seal tightly and freeze for up to 3 months. It can go straight from your freezer into the oven, or defrost in fridge the night before you plan to serve and reheat.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

SOUS VIDE FRENCH ROAST Serves: 10 Recipe by B-Sh

S OA

ON RSI

CLASSIC, LEAN STEAK OF A .

1 (4-pound) French roast 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided 2 teaspoons black pepper, divided 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil chimichurri (recipe below) for serving In a sous vide safe bag, place olive oil, French roast and 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Seal tight and set sous vide to 131°F. Cook for 8 hours. When cool enough to handle, remove from bag and pat dry. Season with remaining salt and pepper. Heat large pan with grapeseed oil on medium-heat. Sear meat for 8 minutes per side, until golden brown. Thinly slice and serve drizzled with oil, salt, and pepper or with chimichurri or your favorite steak sauce.

CHIMICHURRI Yields: 1 ½ cups Recipe by Shifra Klein 1 cup packed parsley ½ cup packed cilantro 1 tablespoon dried oregano ¼ cup finely chopped red onion 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

Sous Vide French Roast 74

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Finely chop herbs (or use a food processor) and combine together with the rest of the ingredients. Store, covered, in the fridge for up to a week. Serve over roasted vegetables, chicken, meat or fish.

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Maror-Crusted Standing Rib Roast MAKE YOUR OWN HORSERADISH â&#x20AC;&#x201D; IT WILL BLOW YOUR MIND (LITERALLY!) 76

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FOR SALAD INSPIRATION TURN TO PG. 52

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BUTCHER'S CUT MAROR-CRUSTED STANDING RIB ROAST Serves: 10 Recipe by Danielle Renov No blurb. The photo speaks for itself. Oh wait, actually, one comment: read the recipe through before you start! 1 (6-pound, 3 bone) standing rib roast 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon coarse black pepper 4 cloves garlic, minced, optional

¾ cup freshly-grated horseradish (not the prepared stuff) 6 tablespoons mayonnaise ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Remove roast from fridge a few hours before cooking so that the meat can come to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a small bowl combine oil, salt, pepper, and garlic. Rub all over the roast. Place rib roast in roasting pan (preferably set on a rack, but it’s Pesach, so if you don’t have one, skip the rack). Place in the oven on a lower middle rack and cook for 25 minutes. Remove pan from the oven and lower the temperature to 325°F. In a small bowl combine mayonnaise, salt, and horseradish. Use a spatula to spread all over the roast. Return the roast to the oven and cook for an additional 18 minutes per pound. In this case, a 6 pound roast would be 1 hour and 45-50 minutes. Remove the roast from the oven and let it rest for 20-25 minutes to allow the juices inside to redistribute, then slice and serve!

Rib Roast Notes 1.

A few ounces over or under the 6 pound mark won’t make a difference. However a pound or more will affect the cooking time for a medium-rare roast (which obviously you want, otherwise you’d be making brisket).

Please don’t skip letting the roast come to room temperature before cooking! If the roast is cold to its core, it will cook differently and the resulting roast will not come out the same.

If you want to be super awesome, you can take the internal temperature of your roast by sticking a thermometer diagonally into its center. You are aiming for 125°F for medium-rare, because the roast will continue to cook once it is out of the oven while resting. However, if you are serving this on Yom Tov and can't cook the roast fresh, I recommend cooking for 15 minutes less than you should to account for warming time.

Rib roasts are sold different ways. The most common form is where the bones are sliced off and then tied back, which imparts flavor from the bones and allows you to easily remove the meat from the bones to make even, consistent slices. This is the friendliest cut for serving a crowd and also for those with basic knife skills. The cowboy cut has the bones on, but they are trimmed for a dramatic presentation. This method is best for real drama and also for those planning on serving a large hunk of 2” prime rib cuts. The third, least-popular option, is straight up rack of rib steaks, untrimmed. APRIL 2019

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MEAT MAINS

Meat Ragu Serves: 8 Recipe by Chef Isaac Bernstein This is another basic staple that can be used in various ways. Serve with Pesach noodles or as is with roasted vegetables. Even better, pour the ragu into an ovento-table dish, top with mashed potatoes and bake for thirty minutes for a savory dish of cottage or shepherd’s pie. 1 onion, finely diced 3 carrots, finely diced 3 stalks celery, finely diced 3 cloves garlic, finely minced (optional) ½ cup grapeseed oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 1 pound ground meat 3 cups wine 1 cup beef broth Sweat out vegetables with salt and pepper in oil over low heat until tender and slightly caramelized, about 20 minutes. Add tomato paste and stir to combine. Add meat and cook until browned. Deglaze with wine and broth. Simmer for 1 hour. Serve with noodles. Serve with blintz noodles, see pg. 49. 78

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MEAT MAINS

Cocktail Sauce Chicken Serves: 4 Recipe by Shifra Klein I was so inspired by Danielle’s passionate description of all things horseradish that I had to use it with one my favorite proteins of all time, the humble chicken. This seemingly simple recipe is so delicious, family friendly, and freezes well.

1 whole chicken, cut into eighths 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon oil ⅓ cup cocktail sauce (Recipe on pg. 21) 1 large Spanish onion, sliced Preheat oven to 400°F.

Combine all ingredients with chicken and place in 9x13 baking dish. Cover and cook for 1 ½ hours. Uncover for the last 15 minutes.

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MEAT MAINS

Chicken Tagine

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MEAT MAINS

Serves: 8 Recipe by Chef Isaac Bernstein Taking the extra step to sear the chicken thighs elevates this dish to new heights. The combination of sweet apricots and salty, briny olives cooked in wine and chicken broth brings something new and unexpected to the table. 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 2 carrots, sliced 1 medium onion, diced 1 bulb fennel, sliced 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced (optional) 2 cups white wine 1 cup chopped apricots 1 cup sliced green olives 2 cups chicken broth Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat oil in a large sauté pan or pot. Season chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Place chicken into the pan, skin side down, and sear on medium-high heat for 5 minutes per side, until golden brown. Remove and sauté onions, carrot, fennel, and garlic until translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add wine and cook until reduced by half. Add apricots, olives, and chicken. Cover ⅔ of the way with chicken broth and roast in the oven for 45-60 minutes.

Chef’s Recommendations: Ask your butcher to cut off the backbone of the chicken thighs, leaving the skin on, to make for easier cooking and nicer presentation.

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Upright or reclining? -

THE TRADITION CONTINUES WITH OVER 15 FLAVORS OF KOSHER L'PESACH DELIGHT.

IMPORTED BY TAAM TOV FOODS INC. | TEL. 718 965 1700

DESSERTS

APRIL 2019

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SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT BY BETH WARREN  Because of the limitations on ingredients we can use during Pesach, many of us immediately jump on the highly processed bandwagon of foods or packaged goods to substitute. However, these days there are a multitude of whole food products on the market to help keep Pesach both nutritionally clean and kosher. Here’s how you can enjoy your desserts with less guilt this holiday season:

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DESSERTS

1. EMBRACE ALTERNATIVE FLOURS:  Bye-bye potato starch. There are a multitude of other more wholesome flours to use in baking during Pesach. Flour made from coconut, quinoa, cassava, banana and almonds are packed with vitamins, minerals and fiber and carry less carbohydrates than potato starch does. It’s not that you can never use potato starch, but take the challenge to explore these other wholesome flours.

2. INCORPORATE WHOLE FOODS:  Taking the easy way out by purchasing highly processed foods is a big mistake, especially since the opportunity to incorporate various whole foods is at your fingertips. Going with the true theme of Pesach cooking, going back to basics, try using ingredients like coconut oil versus margarine, almond milk for a pareve option, along with almond butter, coconut sugar or pure maple syrup.

3. BE FRUITFUL:  I know it’s hard to think of fruit as an enticing option when there are many delectable treats on the table. But you can “fancify" your fruit dishes. Try poached pears, baked apples, an exotic fruit salad with fresh mint and honey, homemade apple or pear sauce, or a fondue with dark chocolate!

4. MAKE IT MINDFUL:  Ultimately, we crave what we want to eat. You don’t have to feel guilty about tasting the cake you baked or trying your mom’s signature pie. As long as an indulgence is mindful and not the result of being starving or losing your inhibitions in the late night hours (and from the ever-flowing wine), it doesn’t have to be a bad thing. In fact, mindfully treating yourself can allow you to enjoy all parts of the holiday and curb your cravings to overindulge.

Remember that what’s most important is to feel that you are celebrating the holiday as it is meant to be enjoyed. Think honestly about whether or not that means an indulgence is appropriate for that moment. Try focusing on your family, the conversation, the seder itself, and other aspects of the chag. You may be so happily caught up in those moments that an indulgence doesn’t seem immediately necessary. There are 10 days of chag, so there is plenty of time to taste a treat. Wait for the right moment, the perfect option for you and make it count!

GOOEY GRAIN FREE BROWNIES Serves: 8 Regular dates will work, but I prefer Medjool dates. They have a sweeter taste and a caramel-like texture. The dates, almond butter and dark chocolate all bring nutritious elements to a classic chocolate dessert. 8 oz. high quality (70%-86%) dark chocolate bar (we recommend Schmerling's) 1 cup dates, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes, then rinsed and drained 2 eggs 1 cup almond butter 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract ¼ cup coconut flour 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup chopped walnuts or almonds, optional Preheat the oven to 350°F. Melt 6 ounces of the chocolate and set aside. In a high-powered blender or food processor, add dates, eggs, almond butter and chocolate. Blend to fully combine until smooth (you may have to scrape down the sides). Add vanilla, coconut flour, sea salt and baking soda. Pulse to combine. Fold in nuts, if using. Pour the batter into a greased 9x13 ovensafe dish. Bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Coconut Chocolate Sauce: Heat 2 tablespoons coconut oil on low heat until melted. Add 1 cup bittersweet chocolate and stir to combine. Drizzle over the brownies.

Beth is a nutritionist and cookbook author of Secrets of A Kosher Girl (available on Amazon). To schedule a nutrition appointment with Beth, email beth@bethwarrennutrition.com or call 347-2921725. Most insurances accepted. You can also follow her Instagram for healthy eating motivation and recipes @beth_warren. APRIL 2019

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DESSERTS

NO-FAIL MERINGUES Yields: 20 meringues or 8 (4-inch) pavlovas

BY DANIELLE RENOV  These meringues are perfection—crunchy on the outside, creamy like marshmallows on the inside. Dust them with cocoa for presentation, but also to add a bitter, rich element that cuts through the sweetness. Serve these cookies as is or crumble and serve them as a crunch factor atop your favorite chocolate mousse. (See Fleishigs January issue for the Ultimate Chocolate Mousse recipe.)

8 egg whites 2 cups sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon white vinegar (leave out if you don’t use vinegar on Pesach) A very clean bowl and whisk (yes, they’re ingredients because they’re that important) Preheat oven to 250°F. Beat egg whites, starting on low speed and gradually increasing to high. Once egg whites form stiff peaks, start adding in the sugar, incorporating 1-2 tablespoons at a time. Once all the sugar has been added and the mixture is glossy and beautiful, add in salt and vinegar. Beat for 30 more seconds to combine. Place meringue mixture into a Ziploc or piping bag, and pipe mixture onto parchment-lined baking sheet. (Or just do what I do and spoon dollops onto the parchment.) Lower heat to 200°F and place meringues inside the oven. Cook for 1 ½ hours. DO NOT OPEN the oven after 1 ½ hours have passed. Instead, just turn it off and leave meringues inside to dry out for at least 3 hours or overnight. Store in an airtight container.

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DESSERTS

LEMON CURD RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN î&#x201A;&#x2030;î&#x201A;&#x2030; My daughter Gabi loves lemon curd, so I wanted to include a recipe for it here. I love this version because it has no margarine or hydrogenated oils. Layer the curd with crushed ladyfingers or cookie crumbs for a show-stopping dessert. Make sure the lemon syrup is cold before you add the eggs or the heat of the syrup will scramble the eggs. 1 cup lemon juice 1 cup sugar 2 eggs 2 egg yolks Crushed ladyfingers or cookie crumbs, for layering, optional In a small saucepan, combine lemon juice and sugar. Cook over low heat, stirring until sugar has dissolved and formed a simple sugar syrup. Set aside to cool completely at room temperature or in the fridge. In a small bowl, lightly beat eggs and egg yolks. Slowly add beaten eggs into cold sugar syrup in the saucepan. Heat over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until bubbles begin to form at the edges. Do not bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Press through a strainer to remove any curdled eggs. Set aside to cool. Serve chilled lemon curd in individual dessert cups, layer lemon curd and crushed ladyfingers in tall glasses, or use as a filling for pavlova. Editor's Note: When storing the lemon curd in the refrigerator, place plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the curd to avoid a "film" from forming on top.

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Layer the curd with crushed ladyfingers or cookie crumbs for a show-stopping dessert.

PAVLOVAS: USE DANIELLE RENOV'S MERINGUE RECIPE TO CREATE 4-INCH ROUNDS, SPOONING MERINGUE ONTO A BAKING TRAY TO CREATE A DIPPED CENTER. BAKE AS RECIPE INSTRUCTS. ONCE COOLED, FILL WITH LEMON CURD OR COCONUT CREAM. TOP WITH FRESH FRUIT OF CHOICE.

Naomi Nachman has been cooking professionally since 2004 when she started her own kosher personal chef business, The Aussie Gourmet, with a focus on Pesach catering. Naomi is sought after for cooking demonstrations and kosher Chopped competitions worldwide and is a passionate traveler. Naomi has a cooking show on Kosher. com, and hosts a weekly radio show on the Nachum Segal Network, "Table for Two." She is a contributing editor for The Jewish Home newspaper and most recently, a two-time cookbook author; Perfect for Pesach (2017), and Perfect Flavors (2018), both published by Artscroll. Naomi can be found at www.theaussiegourmet.com, and @NaomiNachman on Instagram. APRIL 2019

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DESSERTS

POACHED FRUIT RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN  The amount of sugar varies based upon the wine you are using. If you are using a dry wine, use more sugar. The process works with so many different fruits; try peeled clementines, pineapples, or peaches, altering the cooking time based on the ripeness and size of the fruit.

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Serves: 6 6 pears 2 ½ cups wine ½-¾ cup sugar Peel of one orange 1 cinnamon stick Optional aromatics: cardamom pods, sliced ginger, cloves

Peel pears. Bring other ingredients to a boil. Once boiled, gently place the pears into the liquid. Lower to a simmer and cook, covered, for 25 minutes. Remove pears and continue cooking liquid until reduced by half. Pour reduced liquid over pears. Store, covered in the fridge for a week, or freeze for a month in covered container. Defrost in fridge 24 hours before serving.

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DESSERTS

NUT TORTE RECIPE BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN Serves: 8-12

 Pesach desserts were always my favorite. Nut cake or candy cake or crack, whatever you want to call it, my grandmother's version was always delicious. This cake transports me back to my childhood. A hot cup of tea or cold glass of milk seals the deal. Simple perfection. 8-9 eggs, separated 1 cup sugar, divided ¼ cup potato starch, divided 1 cup ground nuts 2 tablespoons cocoa powder Pinch of salt 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously grease a 9” tube pan. Using a completely dry bowl and clean beaters, beat egg whites, ½ cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon potato starch. In a separate bowl, beat egg yolks with remaining ½ cup sugar and 3 tablespoons potato starch, ground nuts, cocoa powder, salt, and vanilla sugar. Gently fold egg white mixture into egg yolk mixture. Place in greased tube pan and bake until set, 50-60 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Store covered at room temperature for two days or freeze.

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DESSERTS

S'MORES BY DANIELLE RENOV

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DESSERTS

Cookie Dippers (instructions on bottom right of page) Yields: 2 dozen cookies 3 cups almond flour ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup white sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 eggs, lightly beaten S'mores Dip 5 (100-gram) chocolate bars 2 (8-ounce) bags mini marshmallows

S'MORES DIP Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease 2 (9x13) tins or baking dishes. Place chocolate in a single layer of each pan so that it covers the entire bottom of the pan. Top chocolate with a layer of marshmallows so chocolate is completely covered. Place trays in the oven uncovered for 6-8 minutes, until the marshmallows have puffed up and browned. Serve immediately.

TO SERVE Place hot s'mores dip on the table alongside the cookie dippers. Spoon the s'mores dip onto plates—or do what we do, family style, which basically means, everyone dig in!

PRO-TIPS:  I make 6 containers of this cookie dough before Pesach starts, complete with everything but the eggs. Then, as Pesach progresses, all I need to do is dump the dough into a bowl, add 2 eggs, mix, and voila, fresh cookies! It’s basically a homemade cookie mix.  T hese cookie dippers are my go-to Pesach chocolate chip cookie recipe too. Add 1 cup of chocolate chips to the mixture for delicious chocolate chip cookies.

DIP

COOKIE DIPPERS Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place all ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine. Make golf ball size balls and use your hand to slightly flatten to form into thick oval shapes. Place on baking sheet, 2 inches apart. Bake for 6-8 minutes, until edges are slightly golden and cookies are cooked through. Allow cookies to cool for 5 minutes on the baking sheet before moving them to a wire rack to finish cooling.

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APRIL 2019

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BY DANIELLE RENOV

Why I Love Maror I’m really unsure why we only use maror as an ingredient once a year. I passionately believe that horseradish is one of the greatest, and truly underrated vegetables out there. Its bitterness and spiciness are the perfect accompaniment to the rich fatty foods us Jews consume an enormous amount of. (Thank you, Shabbos!)

Make the best out of your leftover maror

After the seder is all cleaned up, you may be tempted to throw away the rest of that grated goodness. STOP! For the love of food, put down the container and back away from the garbage. Sit down with a cup of coffee and read these recipes first. I guarantee that you can find at least one use for your leftover maror. And, hey, maybe you’ll become a strong enough member of #teammaror to buy that half-priced horseradish from the supermarket on Chol Hamoed.

Before I give you the recipes, here’s my best maror tip: Buy the actual thing, not the pre-grated or jarred kind. On Erev Pesach, peel the maror. Grate it in your food processor and then…store it in a glass container. That’s right, no plastic. It’s worth the $2 investment! The glass will help the maror stay fresh, sharp, and full of flavor. And now that you have a glass container of the home-grated horseradish that you didn’t throw out after the seder, here are my three favorite maror recipes: 96

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RECIPE 1: HORSERADISH CRUSTED RIB ROAST See my Standing Rib Roast recipe. Because of its price tag, rib roast is not a cut of meat that I make willy nilly, but you know what? We work hard for Pesach to happen. Some women like jewelry for their efforts, some like flowers or new shoes. Me? I just want a perfectly mediumrare, soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside, juicy, fatty, delicious hunk of beef. Recipe on pg. 77.

RECIPE 2: HORSERADISH MAYONNAISE This recipe is for those of you who don’t yet trust me enough to slather your expensive standing rib roast in horseradish. Make the roast however you usually would, but serve it with the most delicious horseradish mayo on the side. (Then go back out and buy a new rib roast and more maror so that you can make the first recipe!) Recipe on pg. 21.

RECIPE 3: COCKTAIL SAUCE If you’re still not convinced, this recipe is my last attempt to make a believer out of you. Why this one? Because it is literally the one recipe in the entire world where I will ever use ketchup—especially the overly sweet, Israeli-style kind. I am, in my heart, not a ketchup lover. I don’t dip my fries into it, put it on my burgers, or enjoy it in any of the interesting egg, cholent, or steak combos. However, in this recipe it is elevated to what I believe ketchup should actually be all the time…a cocktail sauce. That’s right, it’s the dipping sauce most commonly associated with shrimp and therefore not very well-known or beloved in the world of kosher. My father taught us that cocktail sauce is delicious spread onto sandwiches, served alongside schnitzel or any variety of fried fish Recipe on pg. 21.

"If the Torah warns us not to destroy fruit trees, then we should be even more careful about not destroying the fruit itself.” –Rabbi Yishmael, Sifrei (a halachic Midrash), end of Parshat Shoftim

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LEFTOVERS

“Roughly one-third of the food produced for human consumption every year —approximately 1.3 billion tons—gets lost or wasted.” –2011 Study by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations

Matzah,

maror and wine are core ingredients that no Pesach can exist without. Have a cupful of wine or a few tablespoons of maror left over? You can utilize them to create something magical, beyond their basic use during the seder. The truth is, almost anything can be reused to avoid excess waste. In fact, many traditional recipes have been developed for this purpose alone. Gazpacho, a traditional Spanish cold soup, is literally a smoothie made from extra scraps of bread, vegetables, and toasted nuts. Shepherd's pie (a wonderful Pesach staple) uses leftover meat and mashed potatoes, along with a minimal variety of vegetables. Fruit smoothies and puréed soups are another great way to use old ingredients. We used Danielle’s golden onions and Meal Mart's pastrami to transform matzah brei, another Pesach leftovers classic. APRIL 2019

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TIPS

LEFTOVERS

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APRIL 2019

SIMPLE SYRUP, A SYRUP OF SUGAR AND WATER, CAN BE ADDED FOR SWEETNESS. ADD ACCORDING TO YOUR TASTE BECAUSE IF YOU ARE USING AN ALREADY SWEET WINE, YOU MAY NOT NEED THE SIMPLE SYRUP. TO MAKE SIMPLE SYRUP, SIMMER EQUAL PARTS SUGAR AND WATER UNTIL MIXTURE IS FULLY DISSOLVED. COOL. STORE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. w w w.f leishigs.com

LEFTOVERS

CLASSIC SANGRIA RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Yields: 6 cups 4 cups red wine ½ cup Pesach vodka or brandy 1 cup pomegranate or cranberry juice (optional) 1 cinnamon stick Peel of one orange ½ cup simple syrup (optional, see note) Orange slices Lime slices Apple slices Pomegranate seeds Combine all ingredients in a large pitcher. Cover well and refrigerate 24 hours before serving. Serve in glass cups or pour into popsicle molds and serve as sangria ice pops.

Wine Ice Cubes Freeze leftover wine into cubes. Use in stews, cocktails, and drinks.

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ALL YE D

WELL

New Pesach Products:

R, DON

SEASONAL TRENDS

e spoke with Matis Soffer, CEO of Quality Frozen Foods to find out what inspires new products each year and how he predicts what is worth selling and producing. “People want what they are used to all year, done well,” he shares. “They are not necessarily looking for new concepts, but at the same time will spend a bit more on good quality items.” This inspires the approach of balancing the familiar all the while introducing new, more gourmet items that people would not necessarily give a chance during the year. Last year, for example, Tishbi introduced a line of jams around Pesach time. This is clearly a product that can be used all year, but experienced a boost in interest around Pesach; more stores were open to selling it and more customers were willing to purchase it. Excellent Pesach sales and positive consumer feedback led to an expansion of Tishbi jam sales way beyond Pesach. While Pesach can be a good time to try new things, companies like Aufschnitt Meats and TAP were inspired to create versions of their year-round products with kosher for Pesach ingredients. Menachem Lubinsky of Lubicom Marketing (original founder of Kosherfest) shares, "The most significant growth will be in the snack food category. This includes chips, cookies, chocolates and crackers.” Upon hearing this trend, We spoke with Howie Klagsbrun, buyer for Gourmet Glatt, who shared which new snacks will be available at Gourmet Glatt and many other supermarkets this Pesach season. Tanya Rosen’s popular TAP dietetic low-calorie cookie line has expanded with four types of cookies. Blooms released crispy breakfast cereal pockets with a nougat center. Gefen’s famous Pesach flatbreads have a new look and design this year. Streits is offering non-gebrokts soup mandel (croutons) and cookies, a first for the company and Oberlander bakery is releasing a line of on-the-go, individually wrapped cakes and cookies, perfect for your chol hamoed outings. Rabbi Chaim Fogelman of the OK shares, "More and more manufacturers are paying attention to the needs of the kosher for Passover consumer. In a time where cooking from scratch is not feasible for many people, it’s wonderful to see so many mehadrin (food certified by the most stringent supervision) Pesach products available on the market. We are blessed to be living in a time where it gets easier and easier to keep kosher on Pesach, in addition to year round, without compromise.”

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New Products under the OK: Blue Diamond Almond Flour, Dole Coleslaw, Red Cabbage, Iceberg, Romaine and Italian Blend

Wines & Spirits: Sauvage Upstate Vodka Baron Herzog Lineage Wines Godet Fine de Cognac A wonderful blend from the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne growing regions.

Groceries: Exodus Jerky: Exodus is an arduous project that has been years in the making. It is produced by Aufschnitt Meats, the leading brand of beef jerky in the kosher market. The integrity of the Exodus jerky both in quality and kashrus is trusted by the manufacturer’s acclaimed standards and is evident in every bite. Le Chocolat: The best tasting French cocoa drinking mix and gluten-free cookie and cake mixes are available kosher for Pesach. That’s a piece of good news, because they taste absolutely delicious. Meal Mart: The famous frozen line of kugels, matzah balls and stuffed cabbage are available gluten-free and kosher for Pesach. The most exciting are the chicken wings as well as the kishka-pastrami stuffed chicken. Heaven & Earth: Newly released kosher for Pesach spiralized vegetables.

Meat: Grow & Behold: Inspired by how popular short ribs (flanken) were last year, they are introducing an all new “mock” boneless short ribs and duck broth available now on www.growandbehold.com.

A Chat with Yehuda Matzo How long has Yehuda Matzo been around? The brand has been baking matzah since 1921. How many pounds of matzah is produced each year? For Pesach alone Yehuda Matzo sells over 2 million pounds of matzah. What makes Yehuda Matzo unique? Yehuda Matzo offers a wide variety of flavors from Gluten Free varieties like everything matzah and cinnamon to organic ancient grain made with spelt, as well as chocolate covered matzah with sprinkles! We also partnered up with PJ Library and have an offer on our 5 pound matzah boxes to receive free books. PJ Library sends free Jewish children’s books to families across the world every month. PJ Library shares Jewish stories that can help your family talk together about values and traditions that are important to you.

Matzah Trends:

The biggest trend in matzah over the last several years has been the popularity of the Yehuda Gluten Free line. Even though this matzah cannot be used for the Sedar, every Pesach the shelves are filled with our seven different varieties of gluten free matzah and they fly off the shelves just as fast.

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THE CELLAR

WINES YOU MUST HAVE STOCKED AT HOME THIS PESACH SEASON BY GABRIEL GELLER

Flam Rosé 2018 – Consistently one of the better rosé wines. According to most, rosé is red wine from a halachic standpoint. One of the good things about rosé is that it’s often lower in alcohol than most red wines and much lighter in body, making it easier to drink. The Flam Rosé is also consistently one of the best rosés out there so whether you drink it for the 4 cups or not, it’s a great refreshing wine to have with or without food. UVA Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2014 – There are very few kosher Italian wines that I drink, let alone recommend. This is one of my favorites. It’s medium to full-bodied with a mouthful of juicy red fruits as well as tertiary, savory notes of earth and smoke. Simply delicious. Château Fayat Pomerol 2015 – This is not a cheap wine. But after all, it’s Yom Tov and in honor of the holiday we should try to have the best food and wine we can afford, as long as we appreciate it. Château Fayat is a beautiful expression of Merlot and Cabernet Franc from Pomerol, where these 2 grape varieties arguably produce the best wines. Supremely elegant, with sensual notes of raspberries, plums, red cherries, earthy minerals and mushrooms with a velvety texture and a long finish. While still young, it is approachable now. How about buying a case and open a bottle every Pesach over the next decade?

Herzog Special Reserve Chardonnay Russian River 2016 – I rarely drink an oak-aged Chardonnay, but when I do, it better be outstanding! This one certainly is. Perfect balance between lush citrus fruit, golden apple and pear with hints of cashew nuts, fresh butter, and high acidity to cut through the fattiest dishes while keeping the fruit and oak in check.

Vitkin Grenache Noir 2016 – There are very few Grenache wines out there, this one is a house favorite. A classy wine with a supple mouthfeel, it is also very easy to drink. The ripe fruit grown under the hot Israeli sun is kept in check and well supported by moderate, thoughtful oak aging, as to not overpower the flavors and body of the wine. This is the kind of wine you reach for to refill your glass again and again.

Leftover Wine: WINE REDUCTION RECIPE BY SHLOMO KLEIN Yields: 2 cups In the Fleishigs kitchen, this is what we use leftover wine from events and photoshoots for. 3 cups wine ¾ cup sugar

Reduce wine and sugar over mediumhigh heat until mixture is reduced almost by half and is syrupy. Use as a glaze, add to stews and braises, or drizzle over finished dishes.

CLASSIC SANGRIA See pg. 99 for recipe.

WINE ICE CUBES See pg. 99.

SANGRIA POPSICLES Simply freeze sangria (recipe on pg. 99) in popsicle molds.

WINE POACHED FRUIT Use any wine and almost any fruit. The ultimate leftover dessert. See pg. 90 for recipe.

WINE POACHED SALMON You can also use halibut. This recipe is ideal for white wine, not red, but any decent tasting white wine will work. See pg. 43 for recipe.

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INTERVIEW

ara Bradley

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Sara Bradley, runner-up of Season 16 of Top Chef, hails from Kentucky and is the chef and proprietor at Freight House, a unique Southern-inspired restaurant and bourbon bar located in Paducah, KY. Chef Sara grew up surrounded by strawberry fields and pit BBQ in Paducah, eating elaborate meals with her family every night. Sara’s Jewish mother and Appalachian father exposed her to a wonderful culinary upbringing. She developed her skill set under the tutelage of Michelin star chefs, John Fraser at Dovetail, as well as David Posey and Paul Kahan of Blackbird, before opting to return to her roots to indulge in the flavors the Ohio Valley and Western Kentucky have to offer. Inspired by her upbringing in her own family’s kitchen, Sara’s mission is to bring fresh, local ingredients to the community, while working to define the flavors of the “new South.” At her restaurant, she aims to bring regional ingredients to her dishes by sourcing the majority of her products from farmers within a day’s drive, while working within the community to help educate it on how to employ “farm-to-table” practices in their own kitchens. We were inspired Sara’s Jewish pride, farm-to-table passion and the incredible Asian-inspired matzah ball soup she created while competing on the popular cooking competition, Top Chef, which airs on BravoTV. w w w.f leishigs.com

Farmto-Table Concept: You made matzah ball soup look cool during the final four episode on Top Chef in Macau, China. What are some secrets to your soup that made it the judge’s favorite? For me, club soda was key. My mom (during this episode, family members joined the final four chefs to create a fusion dish of childhood flavors and Macanese cuisine), shared this tip with me on the show and it made a huge difference. The matzah balls were really fluffy. I also set a timer to ten minutes from forming to rolling. I think it’s best not to let them sit for too long.

How did you cook the matzah balls? I poached the matzah balls in a piri piri (type of chili pepper) broth and poured a unique market-driven mushroom broth over the matzah balls. In my restaurant, we have matzah balls on the menu that we call bread dumplings and sell so well. We’ve add powdered spices and herbs to make it more interesting. I never thought i would end up cooking them on Top Chef!

What inspired you to compete on Top Chef? I wanted to represent my state, Kentucky and share the food and unique aspects of where I come from.

What was the biggest lesson during your time on Top Chef? Don’t use boxed waffles on a national cooking show! (Sara made chicken and waffles on one episode and got majorly called out for using a boxed waffle mix.) You also need to be prepared for your equipment to not always work. And finally, be kind and be nice, no matter what. It will pay off.

What were some unexpected surprises cooking on Top Chef? What you see is what is really happening. They don’t do a bunch of weird editing to make it look like something else is going on. What is most surprising is how much they wanted level playing field. You can’t bring recipes, but if you remember a recipe when you come, you can quickly jot it down. I memorized a few recipes, but it was a couple of days until we were able to write it down so I kept on questioning those recipes.

Can you give us some insight on growing up Jewish in Kentucky? To be raised in a town where the Jewish population was so small was definitely a challenge. There were a total of 4 Jewish kids in my high school (my brother was one of them). But it really made me who I am. You can embrace being different or fight against it, and I always embraced it. Every summer, I went to a Jewish summer camp, Camp Ben Frankel in Illinois, and that was always a very positive Jewish experience for me.

Favorite family Jewish food? We always had potato latkes and we ate them with my grandmother’s apple butter. I remember during Thanksgiving, my great aunt served a large platter of sliced boiled beef tongue which for us was normal, but for my friends was something way out there. Most people are used to smoked brisket and I am used to the traditional slow braised method, or my mom would brine a brisket and make pastrami. That was what I always thought brisket was, so once I got into cooking, I quickly learned the difference.

What type of food can be found at your restaurant and in Kentucky? A lot of Kentucky flavors are definitely not great for Fleishigs magazine. But we are such an agricultural state so it is not odd at all to have a full vegetarian meal. Silver carp fish, which is kosher, is pretty abundant in Kentucky. I serve it at my restaurant with gumbo sauce, braised greens and a pumpkin seed pesto.

Favorite ingredient to cook with? Chicken livers. All I want is chicken livers. But I also love all aromatics like onion, carrot and celery which make everything taste better. Onion is definitely my favorite.

This idea of sourcing ingredients from as many local farms and purveyors as possible has grown in recent years. It doesn’t only refer to farms, but any local source of food ranging from wineries to cheese makers. It provides a sense of community by supporting those nearby and also aims to contribute less harm to the environment by reducing the need for produce to travel far. Additionally, it strives to hold on to fresh, good quality ingredients, heirloom produce and allows consumers to know exactly where their food comes from. Critics claim that it is too expensive, and many restaurants have been caught misleading their customers about how local the food really is. However, it’s fairly simple for the regular consumer to take on a low scale farm-to-table concept in their home, by joining a local CSA (community supported agriculture) or by visiting farmers’ markets. As well, always read packages to know where your food and produce comes from, and make educated decisions based on your personal preferences.

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21 red onion balsamic marmalade 21 roasted tomato paste 21 homemade mayonnaise 21 horseradish mayonnaise 21 cocktail sauce 21 basic vinaigrette 22 leek confit 22 matbucha 23 golden onions 36 fresh herb purée 36 herb oil 74 chimichurri 99 sangria 101 Red Wine Reduction

VEGETABLES & SIDES: 23 leek spinach shakshuka 47 blintz recipe 49 braised chuck meat blintzes 49 vegetable gratin 51 jicama mango salad 51 roasted bone marrow potato 52 mushroom Jerusalem artichoke salad 52 roasted root vegetable salad 106 pastrami matzah brie

FISH: 34 36 38 40 43

persimmon cod ceviche yellowtail sashimi modern chraime next level salmon tartare wine poached salmon

MEAT MAINS: 59 72 73 74 77 78 78 81

yapchik sweet & sour french roast savory mushroom roast sousvide french roast maror-crusted standing rib roast meat ragu cocktail sauce chicken chick tagine

DESSERTS: 85 gooey grain free brownies 87 no-fail meringues 88 lemon curd 89 pavlova 90 poached fruit 91 nut torte 93 s'mores dip with cookie dippers 101 sangria popsicles

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BY GABRIEL GELLER

BASICS:

WINE PAIRING GUID

RECIPE INDEX

Here are ideal recommendations for main dishes featured in this issue.

1. SALMON TARTARE Herzog Lineage Pinot Noir 2017

2. POACHED SALMON Ramon Cardova Albariño 2017

3. CEVICHE

Gush Etzion Rosé 2018

4. HAMACHI CRUDO

Vitkin White Israeli Journey 2016

5. CHRAIME SEARED BASS

Flam Rosé 2018

6. COCKTAIL SAUCE CHICKEN 6. 8. 7.

Château de Parsac Montagne SaintEmilion 2015

7. SWEET & SOUR FRENCH ROAST

Herzog Special Reserve Quartet 2015

8. SAVORY MUSHROOM FRENCH ROAST Cuvée Hautes Terres de Fourcas Dupré 2015

9. 10.

9. SOUS VIDE FRENCH ROAST WITH CHIMICHURRI Nadiv Elyone Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah 2016

11.

10. HORSERADISH CRUSTED RIB ROAST Clos Mesorah 2015

11. MEAT BLINTZES Shiloh Shor Barbera 2016

w w w. f l e i s h i g s .c o m

LEFTOVERS

PASTRAMI MATZAH BRIE RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Serves: 8 6 whole matzahs 6 large eggs 1 cup golden onions (recipe on pg. 23) 1 (6-ounce) package pastrami 1 teaspoon kosher salt â&#x2026;&#x201C; cup oil Preheat oven to 375Â°F. Break matzah pieces into large chunks and place in a large bowl. Fill with boiling hot water. Set aside for 15 minutes for matzah to soften. Drain matzah and squeeze out any excess liquid. Whisk eggs, onions and salt until smooth. Mix in pastrami and matzah. Pour oil into 9-inch skillet and heat in oven for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and pour matzah-egg mixture into pan. Bake for 30 minutes.

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Another Pesach leftovers classic. w w w.f leishigs.com

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OPEN FOR PESACH, with a full Kosher for Passover Non-Gebroks menu!!

3223 Quentin Rd Brooklyn, NY 11234 USA 718-627-8325 www.tfusionsteakhouse.com Under the hashgacha of Rav Yisroel Gornish

Fleishigs Magazine Issue 006 - April 2019

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Fleishigs Magazine Issue 006 - April 2019