Fleishigs Magazine Issue 014 - Jan 2020 by Fleishigs Magazine

M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E

CLASSIC DELI ROLL: OGRES AREN’T THE ONLY ONES WITH LAYERS.

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ISSUE JAN. 2020

THERE’S NO GRAY AREA WHEN IT COMES TO BLACK AND WHITES

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CONTENTS

8 10

This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of pastrami.

BUTCHER’S CUT

ANTWERP A look into Hoffy's famous deli, Hoffy’s, and the cookbook it inspired

34 SEASONAL

Two chefs present their classic and modern takes on traditional dishes.

CULINARY SCHOOL

Chef Isaac Bernstein gives a detailed step-by-step on preparing stuffed chicken capons.

CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN has established a reputation in the kosher world for modernizing heimish cuisine. He founded Epic Bites, a kosher catering company in Northern California, which became known for epic, modern, multi-course popup dinners. From Epic Bites, he moved on to directing the culinary department at Pomegranate Supermarket in Brooklyn. He spearheaded their “Pom Prime Shabbos” concept, which opened up doors for other supermarkets that deli can be cool. Today, Chef Isaac is a partner of Gruit in Brooklyn, NY. Additionally, he is a food and restaurant consultant and he produces exclusive culinary events. You can follow Chef Isaac's food adventures @chefisaacb on Instagram. Check out his contributions throughout this issue.

JANUARY 2020

BACKPOCKET Four new ways to update the classic gefilte fish COOKBOOK REVIEW The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig

TRAVEL

Fleishigs

EVENT Fleishigs x Adeena Sussman x Sage Kitchen

Everything you need to know about Antwerp, the classic European city.

EDITOR’S LETTER

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Discovering the “New Jewish Deli” in Brooklyn, NY

THE EXPERT Chef Yehuda Sichel's modern versions of chopped liver and cholent

SOMETHING FRESH Try these delicious takes on coleslaw

INTERVIEW Talking herring with Naftali Engel of The Rebbe’s Choice

THE CELLAR Wines that will pair with your favorite pastrami on rye

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RECIPE INDEX LAST BITE

Disclaimer: Due to the everchanging landscape of the travel industry, names, locations and even kashrut can change on a dime. Consult with your local Rabbi to determine which hashgacha works with your lifestyle. Fleishigs does not take responsibility for the kashrut standards of the restaurants listed in this issue. w w w.f leishigs.com

editor's letter

DELI ISSUE

L O V E . F A M I LY. M E M O R I E S . R E S I L I E N C E .

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com

uring the Michelin Star experience at Alenbi in September, we had the pleasure of meeting wonderful members of the press, many of whom had never experienced today’s kosher food scene. As we were talking, the topic of Jewish food came up — more specifically, Jewish deli. I passionately shared how, culturally, many think of Jewish food as pastrami on rye, matzah ball soup, jarred gefilte fish and latkes (or potato knishes). However, true Jewish food has evolved over the years with the ever-growing palate and appreciation for homey food prepared with modern ingredients and techniques. The idea of the “New Jewish Deli” food crawl was born that night. The illustrious Chef Isaac Bernstein led the crawl in Brooklyn a few weeks later with a solid crew, including cookbook author and blogger Chanie Apfelbaum, Chef Yehuda Sichel of Abe Fisher in Philadelphia and event coordinator Heshy Jay of Scoop & Company (@Scooplifestyle), among others. Beyond sharing his thoughts on the deli crawl, Yehuda offers his take on cholent in the form of a pot pie, which will blow your mind. Plus, we have some updated deli classics from Chef Erick VargasBromberg of Gruit in Brooklyn. Beyond leading the crawl, Chef Isaac joins us this month as guest editor; he teamed up with Chef Berish Rapaport of Yapchik in Lakewood, NJ to showcase their versions

of the same dishes like brisket, sweetbreads and deli roll, done in classic and modern preparations. It was both Berish and Isaac’s care to seasoning and attention to every detail that signified what cooking with love is truly all about. Our travel feature takes you to Antwerp, Belgium, where we feature one of the world’s most iconic deli-style restaurants, Hoffy’s, a family-run kosher business that serves the best in old-world Jewish cuisine. This is what Jewish food is all about. Love. Family. Memories. Resilience. It somehow comes across in every last bite. It turns out that the Jewish deli of today, much like the Jewish nation as a whole, is constantly evolving and adopting the tastes of the community around it. Like today’s Jewish and kosherkeeping communities, it’s about remaking old classics with a bit of something new. It’s about understanding and taking deep pride in Jewish cuisine and Jewish food as a whole. During the week of the shoot, we had a feast; while we are usually met with tons of leftovers, everything was gone to the last bite. This is food you will hold on to and serve over and over again, while creating many lasting family memories. Bitayavon, Shifra

PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Devorah Kahan Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt

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Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.ﬁshseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com 8

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EVENTS

SABABA

L to R: Assorted pastry, freekah salad and Adeenaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pomegranate slaw

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A celebration of Fleishigs, Sababa & Sage Kitchen. In honor of Sababa, the new cookbook by acclaimed food writer and author Adeena Sussman, we hosted our first-ever event open to the public. By Shifra Klein | Event Photos By Itzik Roytman

s we have entered the second year of publishing our hit food and lifestyle magazine, and with Adeena on tour, it was an opportune time for this event. It was held at the new Sage Kitchen in the Bowery section of Lower Manhattan, where Chef Jasmine Einalhori, aka Jazzie, serves up a market fresh, seasonal menu that appeals to all palates. With a solid catering business under their belts, the friends and chefs behind Sage opened only six short months ago, looking to fill a void in the fast casual lunch and dinner scene. With the mantra that kosher can be cool and all-encompassing, something Adeena and Fleishigs have in common, Sage Kitchen was the perfect location for this event. Jazzie and the staff at Sage Kitchen were fully on board with the vision of the night.

Adeena Sussman, Jasmine Einalhori and Shifra Klein

Note: Read more about Sage Kitchen in the upcoming #RestaurantIssue, out in February. Chef Jazzie will share some of her most popular recipes, including her famous schnitzel sandwich and tahini chocolate chip cookies. Subscribe at: www.fleishigs.com

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EVENTS

Adeena with Soom Tahini co-founder Amy Zitelman and cookbook authors (Tahini & Turmeric) Vicky Cohen and Ruth Fox

A glimpse of the tasting from Sage Kitchen & Sababa

The famous Sage fig jam schnitzel sandwich

Adeena talking tahini to a completely engaged audience

The guest of honor was Adeena Sussman, a California native who co-authored celebrity Chrissy Teigen’s hit cookbooks, moved to Tel Aviv a few years ago and now lives steps away from the Carmel Market. It is this experience, combined with her deep love of food and writing, as well as her California roots and Israeli home, that inspired her beautiful — and fully kosher — bestseller, Sababa. Chef Jazzie and the staff at Sage Kitchen showcased some of Adeena’s hit recipes, like lachmajun-spiced meat hummus; herb and garlic kebaburgers; cabbage, apple

and pomegranate slaw; and chewy tahini blondies, along with some Sage favorites like freekeh salad; their popular chicken sandwiches with delicious homemade fig jam; and a lavender sage iced tea to wash it all down. The intimate event, which sold out within 48 hours, was filled with 70 Fleishigs readers; against Sage Kitchen’s rustic and casual backdrop, guests were able to mingle and truly enjoy the evening. Adeena divulged her tips and tricks for making the perfect tahini in a live demonstration and shared some of the inspiration for the stunning

Melinda Strauss, Itta Eisner , Kayla Kaye and Elisheva Taitz

multi-colored tahini options in her book: pink from beets, green from fresh herbs, charcoal from charred eggplant and yellow from turmeric. As Adeena eloquently spoke about her love affair with tahini to a rapt audience, Chef Jazzie started using the tahini to create edible art directly on the baker’s paper-lined table. She swiped hummus and harissa and scattered fresh accoutrements like chopped herbs, fresh crudités and roasted tomatoes; the pair truly brought the pages of Sababa to life in this unique and interactive demonstration. After feasting on the delicious

food and watching Adeena’s demonstrations, guests lined up to have their cookbooks signed by Adeena herself. The night ended on a high note, with guests reveling in the epic swag bags, which included Soom Foods tahini, Meal Mart pastrami kishka, The Rebbe’s Choice flatbread kichel and of course — a copy of Sababa. All that and more was stuffed into a canvas bag produced by Between Carpools emblazoned with the saying, “All I do is eat, sleep, and dream Fleishigs.” Our kick off event was a true success and we look forward to opening more events to the public in the future.

JANUARY 2020

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BACK POCKET

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BACK POCKET

Cinco Gefilto Five New Ways to Flip Gefilte.

roll of gefilte fish, essentially mildly-seasoned ground fish, is a blank canvas and can be transformed with almost any international flavor profile. You can steam, boil or fry the gefilte fish and top it as you please. We had so much positive feedback to our September feature on how to cook gefilte fish that we decided to take it up a notch with some more fun and exciting preparations. The following recipes are wonderful to have on hand.

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

JANUARY 2020

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BACK POCKET

Spinach Gefilte Roulade ( recipe pg. 17) 14

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Fried Gefilte Fish Patties Serves: 8 When my friends and I were teenagers, we often volunteered at Chabad of the Five Towns, where we were generously hosted by Rabbi and Rebbetzin Wolowik. Rebbetzin Wolowik is the most incredible cook and that was one of the perks of coming to their Chabad house for Shabbos. She always served a big platter of fried gefilte fish patties, which we loved so much, an unnamed friend even snuck some in her pocket on our way home for us to snack on the next day in school. I am now a member of Chabad of the Five Towns, so I asked Chanie for her recipe. Though quite simple, it’s so delicious. Real Jewish comfort food.

1 (16-ounce) roll gefilte fish, defrosted slightly but still able to slice through 2 eggs, beaten 3 cups matzah meal 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon paprika Vegetable oil, for frying Lemon wedges, for serving Pesto, for serving (recipe follows) Beet horseradish, for serving Slice gefilte fish into into 8 even rounds. Add beaten eggs to a plate. Add matzah meal to another plate and season with salt, garlic powder and paprika. Dip fish in egg, then seasoned matzah meal. Add 1 inch of vegetable oil to a large pan over mediumhigh heat. Fry patties in hot oil until golden brown, about 4-5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. Serve with lemon wedges and sauce of choice. Note: This recipe works best with Raskin's brand sweet gefilte fish.

Basil Macadamia Pesto Makes: 2 cups 1 bunch basil 1 cup macadamia nuts 2 cloves garlic Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup olive oil, plus more as needed 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper Blend all ingredients in a food processor or blender. Drizzle additional olive oil to achieve desired consistency. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week. JANUARY 2020

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BACK POCKET

Ratatouille Gefilte Fish

Note: Note: Ratatouille Gefilte Fish pairs very well with spiralized zucchini. Just toss with extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper for a fresh, raw salad. 16

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BACK POCKET

Ratatouille Gefilte Fish Serves: 8 Cooking the gefilte fish together with the ratatouille allows the flavors to permeate the fish in an intensely delicious way. Alternatively, you can make the ratatouille and serve on top of boiled gefilte fish or fish patties, as pictured. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, diced 1 green pepper, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 small eggplant, diced 1 medium zucchini, diced 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon dried oregano ½-1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (depending on your heat preference) 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup wine 1 (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes 1 tablespoon sugar 1 (16-ounce) roll gefilte fish Fresh basil, for serving, optional Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onion, pepper and garlic and sauté until softened and translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add eggplant and zucchini. Season with salt, oregano and crushed red pepper flakes. Sauté another 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook an additional 10 minutes. Add wine, increase heat to high and simmer for 5 minutes. Add crushed tomatoes and sugar. Reduce heat to low and cook until tender, about 25 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove parchment paper from gefilte fish and place in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Top with ratatouille. Cover and cook for 1½ hours. Cool, slice and serve with fresh basil.

Spinach Gefilte Roulade Serves: 8 A really unexpected — and delicious — presentation of gefilte fish. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 Spanish onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 (12-ounce) bag frozen spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 (16-ounce) roll gefilte fish, mostly defrosted Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until softened and translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté another 2 minutes. Add spinach, salt and pepper. Sauté another 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Spray a sheet of parchment paper with non-stick cooking spray. Flatten gefilte fish on the parchment paper into an 8x10-inch rectangle. Top rectangle with spinach mixture, leaving a slight border around the edges. Roll jelly-roll style, wrap in parchment paper and tighten the edges to mimic the original wrapped look of a loaf of gefilte. Place loaf in a 9x13-inch baking dish and cover halfway with water. Cook for 1½ hours. Cool completely. Slice and serve with horseradish mayo.

Sesame Teriyaki Gefilte Balls Serves: 8 These come together in minutes and make for a fun Shabbos appetizer. 1 (16-ounce) roll classic gefilte fish, defrosted ½ cup chopped scallions, plus more for garnish ⅓ cup teriyaki sauce, plus more for brushing ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for garnish Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Add all ingredients to a large bowl and mix well to combine. Using a mini ice cream scoop, scoop out balls onto prepared tray. Brush with more teriyaki sauce and cook for 20 minutes. Garnish with scallions and toasted sesame seeds. Serve warm or at room temperature.

JANUARY 2020

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

THE JEWISH COOKBOOK REVIEW BY SHIFRA KLEIN

ike the Jewish nation today, The Jewish Cookbook is a diaspora of ingredients, cooking styles and personalities. While you can literally create a book out of a single Jewish food (bagels, challah or kugel), Leah chose recipes that reflect what global Jewish cuisine looks and tastes like in this moment in time. Leah Koenig is an expert Jewish food writer and author of six cookbooks, including Modern Jewish Cooking. She spent two years writing and developing The Jewish Cookbook and a third year shooting recipes with photographer Evan Sung, editing and laying out the book. The layout and design of The Jewish Cookbook is a bit different than a typical cookbook. Staying true to the title, Leah included over 400 Jewish recipes, so shooting every recipe wasn’t feasible. The many pictures that do grace the book are clean, modern, classic and well-presented. The recipes are written with superb clarity and are easy to read and follow. Leah is also well respected for her thorough research and testing, which is apparent as you read the vast amount of information offered in the book. “Growing up in an Ashkenazi household, I thought I knew what Jewish food was, but it was just the tip of the (very delicious) iceberg. Every time I learn about a new (to me, at least) dish, like the mix of shredded apples, rosewater and sugar that some Persian Jewish families break the fast on, I remember why I do this work. There is always another story to uncover,” Leah noted. As I read the book, I felt the same way. Who knew that there are so many ethnic versions of classic Jewish dishes? The book includes an Indian version of sufganiyot called gulab jamun; a South African curried version of gefilte fish;

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JANUARY 2020

In Brief: The Jewish Cookbook Author: Leah Koenig Publisher: Phaidon 432 pages, $49.95, Hardcover

a Yemenite oxtail stew and Georgian khachapuri. These are just a few examples of the treasures found in her book. Another surprise was the guest contributors, a welcomed enhancement. Every 20 pages or so, there is a recipe from a well-known Jewish food personality who contributes a Jewish recipe that is meaningful to them. Cookbook author and Lehamim Bakery founder Uri Scheft shares giant strawberry-almond hamantaschen; Parisian baker Florence Kahn shares a pistachio cheesecake; Israeli chefs Eyal Shani and Alon Shaya share whole roasted cauliflower and schmaltzy corn bread with Aleppo pepper, respectively. There are quite a few other surprises from world-renowned chefs Michael Solomonov, Yotam Ottolenghi and many more. The richness and quality of this wellwritten and well-researched celebration of Jewish food and culture comes through in every page. Leah offers a wide variety of recipe types from simple to complex, but with hundreds to choose from, there is something for anyone seeking to learn more about the wonders of Jewish food.

BLACK AND WHITE COOKIES Reprinted with permission from THE JEWISH COOKBOOK Preparation time: 25 minutes, plus cooling Cooking time: 15 minutes Makes: about 2 dozen cookies

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COOKBOOK REVIEW For the cookies: 1½ cups all-purpose flour, sifted ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature ⅔ cup sugar 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk ⅓ cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon lemon extract For the icing: 2½ cups powdered (icing) sugar, sifted 3 tablespoons milk, plus more as needed ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon lemon extract 2 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa powder ½ teaspoon instant coffee granules Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Black and white cookies — the cake-textured rounds frosted with white icing on one half and black on the other — were a staple in the New York City Jewish bakery case in the mid-twentieth century. They can still be found in bakeshops today, though many of the commercial options tend to be almost comically large. This version is petite and gently sweet — perfect for dipping into a cup of coffee or tea.

Make the cookies: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a stand mixer (or using a handheld electric mixer and a large bowl), beat together the butter and sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the whole egg, egg yolk, milk, vanilla and lemon extract and beat until combined. Don’t worry if the batter appears lumpy or curdled at this stage — it will smooth out. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in stages, beating briefly on low after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary, to form a soft batter. Place rounded tablespoons of dough, spaced 2 inches apart, on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, rotating the pans front to back halfway through, until lightly golden around the edges but still pale on top, 12–15 minutes. Carefully transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

Make the icing: In a medium bowl, stir together the powdered (icing) sugar, milk, vanilla and lemon extract. Stir until a thick icing forms. The mixture should be easily spreadable, but not loose or liquid. If necessary, stir in additional milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the desired consistency is reached. Transfer about half of the icing to a separate bowl. Add the cocoa powder and coffee granules and stir to combine. If necessary, add more milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the same thick, spreadable icing consistency is reached. Once the cookies are fully cool, set the wire racks over a piece of parchment paper. Using a butter knife or small offset spatula, carefully glaze one half of the flat (bottom) side of each cookie with the white icing. Repeat on the other half with the black icing. Depending on how thickly the cookies are glazed, there may be some icing left. Set the glazed cookies back on the racks to set for a few minutes before serving.

Flourless Chocolate Cake Sometime in the late twentieth century, this dense, fudgy chocolate cake emerged as a staple of the Passover dessert table in America. Serve it topped with freshly whipped cream and berries, or simply dusted with powdered (icing) sugar. It is rich and intensely chocolatey, so a small slice goes a long way. (Recipe pg. 80) JANUARY 2020

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BUTCHER'S CUT

othing says "Jewish New York Deli" more than pastrami. We've been making this iconic Jewish classic for years, but gained a new appreciation for it this summer when we tested a new recipe for Montreal smoked meat. You could say that these two cuts are long lost cousins; both are a type of preserved beef, generally made from the belly or “plate” of the steer — heavily spiced, smoked and steamed before eating. Whereas pastrami’s special blend of coriander and black pepper took hold in the New York area in early 20th century diners and became emblematic of Jewish deli cooking, the addition of garlic became entrenched in the Montreal area, bringing us their iconic Montreal smoked meat sandwich.

In both cases, these cuts were originally made by taking the very fatty belly muscle of the steer (the same muscle used to make bacon) or a whole fat-on brisket, then curing, spicing and cooking it in a way to achieve tender and flavorful results, typically in a smoker. When pastrami is served in the classic deli setting, it’s generally steamed for a few hours before slicing, which yields even more tender meat. The extra fat can then be rendered out, if desired, by frying or steaming. Nowadays, as tastes have changed, pastrami is often made from leaner cuts, including various shoulder cuts. Navel pastrami is the fattier variety, cut from the belly.

F R O M T H E B E L LY O F T H E B E A ST COMES A CUT T H AT M E A N S BUSINESS.

You can buy pastrami as a slab or pre-sliced — both are best when heated. For the whole slab, steam in the oven on low temperature. Place the slab on a rack in a pan over a small amount of water, cover tightly and steam for 1-2 hours until tender. Alternatively, use an electric multi-cooker like the Instant Pot. For sliced pastrami, you don’t need to steam it for as long; it can be heated on a blech for Shabbat or in the microwave for a minute or two, then layered into a sandwich or, our personalf favorite, piled on top of a burger. New York Deli, we’re upping the game.

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered, premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com/fleishigs. JANUARY 2020

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BUTCHER'S CUT

F I E STA M E E T S E ST H E R . W H E N WO R L D S C O L L I D E . ( I N T H E B E ST WAY P O S S I B L E ) .

Pastrami Taco Platter Tacos are extremely family-friendly; pastrami, especially with such an easy preparation, is the perfect filling.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Bowtie Pastrami Salad Not just for your summer BBQs, pasta salads are extremely forgiving and versatile. Add your favorite accompaniments for an all-around crowd-pleaser.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

EASY OVERNIGHT PASTRAMI Serves: 8 This method works for both navel and basic pastrami. You can also cook on low heat in a slow cooker overnight. 1 (4-pound) navel pastrami or pastrami roast Preheat oven to 200°F. Keeping the plastic packaging intact, place pastrami in 9x13-inch baking pan. Add enough water to cover pastrami by two-thirds. Cook overnight. Remove from plastic. Serve sliced or shredded on a platter.

PASTRAMI TACO PLATTER Serves: 8 1 (4-pound) pastrami, shredded (follow recipe above) 3 cups shredded cabbage 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons olive oil Zest and juice of 1 lime 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon honey 2 teaspoons hot sauce, plus more for serving, optional 1 teaspoon kosher salt Sliced avocado, for serving Thinly sliced red onion, for serving 1 cup sliced cherry tomatoes, for serving 1 cup fresh herbs, for serving Canned chili peppers of choice, for serving, optional 16 toasted tortillas Arrange pastrami on a platter. In a bowl, combine cabbage, mayonnaise, olive oil, lime zest and juice, cumin seeds, honey, hot sauce (if using) and salt. Finish platter with sliced avocado, red onions, cherry tomatoes, herbs, chili peppers and hot sauce (if using). Serve with tortillas.

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BOWTIE PASTRAMI SALAD Serves: 8 Note: While this pasta salad does not need to be served hot, preparing this salad with warm pasta is key; the heat of the pasta will enable the dressing to properly absorb. 3 cups shredded steamed navel pastrami (follow recipe above) 1 (12-ounce) bag bowtie pasta, cooked according to package directions 3 cups chopped kale ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 cups Gourmet Mushrooms (see pg. 50) 1 cup Caramelized Onions (see pg. 50) 1 cup sliced grape tomatoes In a large bowl, combine pastrami, warm pasta and kale. In a separate bowl, mix oil, mustard, mayonnaise, honey, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper until emulsified. Pour over pasta. Top with mushrooms, caramelized onions and tomatoes; mix well to combine. Serve warm or at room temperature.

MUSTARD-BRAISED PASTRAMI Serves: 8 1 (4-pound) pastrami brisket 1 cup deli mustard ⅓ cup honey 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Preheat oven to 350°F. Place pastrami in a baking dish and add enough water to cover pastrami by two-thirds. Cover and cook for 2½ hours. Uncover and drain all liquid from pan. Raise oven to 375°F. Combine deli mustard, honey and red wine vinegar and brush over pastrami. Cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes.

TOGARASHI CABBAGE Serves: 8 Togarashi is a Japanese spice blend made up of ingredients like chili flakes, pulverized nori (seaweed), sesame seeds, ground ginger and sea salt. It can be found kosher under the McCormick brand. Chinese fivespice is a good stand-in, but any favorite spice blend would work just as well. 1 head red cabbage, cut into wedges 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1 tablespoon togarashi or spice blend of choice 1 teaspoon kosher salt Preheat oven to 375°F. Place cabbage on baking sheet and toss with oil, togarashi and salt. Loosely cover with foil and cook for 30 minutes. Raise oven to 425°F and roast for another 8 minutes. Serve alongside pastrami.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

H E Y, YO U READING THIS. LO O K U P AT YO U R S P O U S E A N D SAY “ L E T ’S M A K E T H I S N E X T W E E K .”

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BELGIUM

ANTWERP

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@busyinbrooklyn

BY CHANIE APFELBAUM

I was so honored when the Bikur Cholim committee of Antwerp, Belgium flew me in for their annual fundraising event. It was one of my largest events ever, with close to 800 women in attendance. I found the people in Antwerp to be extremely kind and gracious; they couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do enough for me!

Antwerp, the city of diamonds and fashion. Pictured here: Cathedral and the MoMu (fashion museum). JANUARY 2020

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he city of Antwerp has 15,000 Jews, many of whom work in the diamond

and jewelry trade. Home life is very important in Antwerp and many leave work and return home for lunch. The Jewish “ghetto” is small, with most areas within walking distance of each other. The decadent Kleinblatt cheese danish.

The affogato at Confetti is worth a stop.

TRAVEL

HOTELS:

The flight from New York to Brussels was 7 hours long, followed by a 30-minute ride from the airport to Antwerp. Once in Antwerp, it’s easy to get around by foot. Taxis need to be ordered and Uber is accessible in Brussels, but not in Antwerp. Many people use bikes as their main mode of transportation.

There are many options in the area. I stayed at the Leopold Hotel, which was very central and around the corner from many restaurants. There are also affordable options on home rental sites like Airbnb.

LANGUAGE: Many locals are multi-lingual and speak English, Yiddish, Flemish and French, among other languages. 28

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 Kleinblatt: Make sure to try the cheese danish, blueberry pastry, brioche avec cream and house-made farfel.

 Hoffy’s: Traditional heimish takeout.

 Gottesfeld: Be sure to try the strawberry milk tarts and house-made spelt pasta.

 Confetti: Dairy restaurant. Order the affogato!

 Fogel Butcher: Check out the variety of charcuterie, as well as pink hot dogs, dyed with beets to make them more kid-friendly.

 Momentum: Belgian chocolate store.

 Eighteen: Meat restaurant. Order the foie gras, which is hard to find in the States.  Artichoke: Georgian meat restaurant.

SHOPPING:  Kookhuis is the most amazing kitchen store I’ve ever seen!  Meir shopping district is a nice place to walk around with many great stores. Inno is the local department store that carries beautiful housewares.

CURRENCY:

 Herczl & Gold is a fantastic cheese shop worth stopping at.

Euros. At the time of print, 1 US dollar is equal to 1.11 Euros. Chanie at the iconic Kleinblatt Bakery.

 Grosz Center and Hershkovitz-Katz are the two main kosher grocery stores.

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PHOTO BY ESTUDIO-5

KOSHER FOOD:

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SIGHTSEEING  “Cholent Park” is a nice park near the Jewish area where everyone walks to on Shabbos after their cholent.  Central Train Station is absolutely beautiful and was ranked one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. Take a 50-minute Havenroute Tour at the Port of Antwerp.  Antwerp Zoo, established in 1843, is one of the oldest zoos in the world, with a wide variety of species.  Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) is Antwerp’s municipal museum, housed in a fascinating modern brick and glass building. With a variety of exhibits and 500,000 pieces on display in the 10-story building, there is something for everyone.

persecution, poverty and oppression.

Sculpture by Jef Lambeaux depicting legendary hero Brabo after his defeat of the giant Antigoon.

FOOD NOTES:

 Take a guided bike tour of Antwerp with “Antwerp by Bike.” www.antwerpbybike.be

 The Antwerp Holocaust Memorial was erected 20 years ago to commemorate Belgian Jews who lost their lives in the Holocaust.  Diamantmuseum (the Diamond Museum) explores Antwerp’s history in the diamond trade.  For art enthusiasts, check out the Royal Museum of Fine Art or the Museum Mayer van den Bergh, which showcases the remarkable art of Fritz Mayer van den Bergh.  The Red Star Line Museum is a newer tourist attraction, which features the stories of immigrants who traveled on Red Star Line steamers from Belgium and surrounding European countries to Canada and the United States between 1883 and 1934 to escape

 Make sure to buy some fresh produce locally — the fruit in Belgium is amazing! Just don’t take it yourself, it’s considered rude; the shopkeeper does that for you.  Look out for Thisje brand chocolate sprinkles made from real chocolate. If you can also find pearl sugar, used to make traditional Belgian waffles, be sure to bring some back with you.  Most restaurants are closed between 3-6 p.m., so plan accordingly.  Kosher slaughter is forbidden in Antwerp, so meat and poultry is imported.  Belgian folklore dictates that Roman soldier Silvius Brabo tossed the severed hand of the giant Antigoon into the Scheldt River, which is why the hand is so symbolic in Antwerp. Many shops sell pastries and chocolate shaped like the “Antwerp hand.”

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DINING AT HOFFY'S

TRAVEL

BY JORDANA FICHTENBAUM

offy's Deli is located in the diamond district, next to the iconic Antwerp train station. The area is Jewish and there are a few heimish bakeries in the vicinity that are delicious to explore, such as Kleinblatt, in business since 1931. After first considering a career in the diamond industry, Moshi Hoffman heeded his father’s advice; he went to culinary school instead and opened Hoffy’s in 1985. The Hoffman brothers all work there in some capacity and take a lot of pride in their kosher “empire,” which includes Hoffy’s, a fish shop, a grocery store and a housewares store. The restaurant is located on Lange Kievitstraat, also known as Hoffman Street. The deli serves classic Jewish comfort foods with a fusion of Portugese, Spanish, Iranian and Eastern European cuisines. Hoffy’s is famous for their traditional heimish menu, spread before you in the most elegant

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manner. While across the kosher world there are many steakhouses, sushi spots, Israeli joints and Chinese restaurants, this is one of the only places that truly celebrates the cuisine of the Ashkenazi Jewish persuasion. Their extensive dine-in and takeout menus have items like gefilte fish and homemade beet horseradish, matzah ball soup, the perfect schnitzel and an assortment of meats, vegetables, salads and kugels. Their chicken meatballs, farfel, apple kugel and zucchini kugel are popular menu items as well. The meat for the meatballs is ground by hand and the kugels aren’t heavy like typical kugels can be. Hoffy’s epitomizes heimish comfort food, elevated to the next level. It’s so special and unique to the Antwerp community that it can even be found in many tourist guidebooks. The restaurant has become such a cultural icon that a European publisher printed a book all about Hoffy’s.

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TITLE: Hoffy's, The Jewish Kitchen

APPLE KUGEL

AUTHOR: Moshi Hoffman and Marijke Libert

Serves 8 (use 1 large cake pan or 2 small ones)

PAGES: 272 PUBLISHER: Kannibaal PRICE: $49.99 from Amazon

The cover design of the book is reminiscent of a haggadah and in some ways, it is a haggadah of sorts; it's the story of how the Hoffman family’s truly unique restaurant began and what keeps it going. An interesting facet of the book is that it showcases a Hasidic, kosher-observant family and restaurant, yet is written for a general audience. As such, the book goes into detail about kashrut. The book is filled with pictures of the restaurant and its food, and gives readers a glimpse into Jewish life in Antwerp around Hoffy's. The photography is beautiful and reflects life of Hasidic Jews in Antwerp in vivid detail. One of the most standout pictures in the book is a magnificent double page shot of a few young boys watching matzah being made. The full-colored recipes in the book are organized by holiday, with menus for Rosh Hashana, Pesach, Sukkot, Chanukah, Shabbos and Daily Bread for foods that are not holidayspecific. The book has recipes

for traditional heimish fare like Chicken Paprikash, Stuffed Cabbage and Gefilte Fish. What’s most impressive are the recipes for making homemade basics like soup croutons (Babby's Mandlen), pickles and their famous chrain (beet horseradish). The food is simple, yet flavorful; imagine the best versions of classic dishes. This book is so much more than just a cookbook. It's a glimpse into the Hoffman family and culture in Antwerp. It's nice enough to keep on your coffee table for guests to look through and the recipes will surely enhance your table. Amongst all the new American and Israeli-style kosher cookbooks, it is a breath of fresh air to see a kosher cookbook from Europe.

Hoffy’s Restaurant and Catering Lange Kievitstraat 52 Antwerp, Belgium Info@hoffys.be +32 3 234 3535

Jordana Fichtenbaum is a social media expert and blogger serving a number of iconic restaurants and hotel chains. She is the co-founder of Zero G Kitchen, a platform for food development in Space. Jordana also runs a book club on her Instagram page @whatsjordanareading and on her website www.whatsjordanareading.com.

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2 pounds apples (Jonagold), about 3 large apples 3 eggs 1 cup white sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 cup oil 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Pinch of cinnamon ½ cup white flour Confectioners' sugar, to finish Heat the oven to 350°F. Wash, peel and core the apples, and slice them thinly. Break the eggs into a large bowl and beat lightly. Add the sugar, baking powder, oil, vanilla extract and cinnamon, then stir until the mixture is thick and runny. Now add the flour and mix well. Grease a large cake tin. Pour the dough into it. Arrange overlapping slices of apple on top. Bake in the oven, uncovered, for 45 to 60 minutes until the apple pudding turns light brown. If the top layer starts browning too quickly, lay a sheet of tin foil over it. REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM KANNIBAAL PUBLISHERS.

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Tip In Jewish cookery, this apple pudding can be served with meat as an alternative to applesauce.

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Deli Talk

BY NAOMI ROSS

nce upon a time, the institution of the Jewish deli was born. It evolved from Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants who brought the delicatessen concept (originally from Germany) with them to the United States in the late 1800s. The deli was a place to sit, catch up with friends and relax – and all while enjoying the Jewish comfort foods with which customers culturally identified. The food was old world “heimish,” which means “home,” or in other words — how mama used to make it. But over the years of diners passing through, social mores changing and expectations expanding, the face (and perhaps the heart) of the Jewish deli has changed.

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hile some delis have retained the classic dishes of yore, they’ve strived to up their game, giving gourmet or modernized twists along the way. Some have continued to expand their deli offerings to satisfy the evergrowing, sophisticated kosher palate. We invited two chefs to come together to discuss and cook what deli cuisine truly means to them. An “old school” versus “new school” deli throwdown.

- Chef Berish Rapaport

“A HEIMISH CHEF CAN BECOME A HIGHEND CHEF, BUT A HIGH-END CHEF CAN NEVER BECOME A HEIMISH CHEF.”

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The smell of fried onions permeates the air of the kitchen, as tongs stir and hands wave high. “Bubby did not use garlic. You can’t call it ‘Bubby’s farfel’ if you add garlic,” exclaims Chef Isaac Bernstein. He keeps it simple, the way his grandmother made it — schmaltz, salt, pepper and a little sugar to create balance. The Monsey-raised chef and owner of Gruit in Brooklyn, NY has strong opinions when it comes to “heimish” food and the culture of the Jewish deli is on his mind. Chef Berish Rapaport of Yapchik in Lakewood, NJ enjoys the banter. While their opinions may differ about which is the best brand of farfel, the duo can agree on one thing — the

soulfulness of the foods that have ultimately become the fare of the modern Jewish deli. As the farfel simmers, the two chefs each begin working on their own versions of “grashitzeh,” otherwise known as sweetbreads. Chef Berish grew up eating it with letcho, which he describes as a Hungarian version of ratatouille with lots of paprika. On the other side of the kitchen, Isaac is giving sweetbreads his modern spin with wild mushrooms and a rich beef jus. “A heimish chef can become a high-end chef, but a highend chef can never become a heimish chef,” Berish remarks. Although they bemoan the soaring prices and scarce availability of sweetbreads these days, they agree that the culinary roots of classic Ashkenazi dishes are steeped in a history of humble times and years of deprivation. The homey Jewish foods that are “heimish” are historically the “food of poor people,” explains Rapaport. “The wealthy got the meat, the poor got the intestines, but everything was preserved and used.” For Chef Isaac, cooking and eating these foods helps him feel more connected to his Jewish culture and heritage — his modernized versions act as an honored celebration of how he was brought up.

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“YESHIVA JUNK FOOD CAN BE VERY REFINED. IN A WAY, THAT’S HONORING IT.” - Chef Isaac Bernstein

ith a broken smile on his face, he waxes nostalgic. “The biggest treat was going to Grand Deli as a Rosh Chodesh trip in yeshiva,” remembers Bernstein. The deli was where the yeshiva guys would hang out, a comfortable forum for socializing and connecting with the community. A pang of sadness is audible in his voice as he continues. “The death of the old deli is more about the death of deli culture.” The rising cost of food and a shift in tastes favoring kosher steakhouses, he believes, has impacted the once thriving, tight-knit social experience that defined the life of the Jewish deli. A beautiful baking sheet of balsamic-glazed cipollini onions emerges from the oven, its deliciously purple hue sticky and glistening. The onions are part of Chef Isaac’s plan to update the onion soup mix component in classic brisket and gravy, now prepared sous

vide with a rich red wine and beef jus reduction, dusted with ground charred scallions, an acrid taste that balances the sweet. “You have to respect what came before – I’m not trying to make your grandmother’s brisket. It’s just how I make it,“ says Bernstein. “Yeshiva junk food can be very refined. In a way, that’s honoring it.” More than presenting a modern spin, Rapaport is dedicated to creating the best versions of traditional heimish fare. As he layers overlapping slices of pastrami over the puff pastry dough for his deli roll, he wraps and tucks with practiced precision. After baking, he brushes the top with duck sauce and returns it to the oven to set the glaze. “Duck sauce is the Jewish truffle,” he says with a wink. It is savory with a touch of sweetness and makes food crisp to the bite. With one foot resting in the

past and the other firmly entrenched in the future, Chef Isaac’s deli roll is a merging of the two. He uses mustardbraised cabbage wrapped in pastrami and homemade duck sauce, shapes it into rounds and tops it with schmaltz-fried onions, chives and poppy seeds. This homage to the Jewish bialy and the popular Reuben sandwich is intensely satisfying. Where then, is the future of the modern Jewish deli headed? Fresh prepared foods have become the domain of kosher supermarkets, filling that void. “Today, a chef at a supermarket is as important as a general manager,” notes Bernstein. “People are shifting towards hot buffets – always fresh and made that day,” notes Chef Berish. But these venues just don’t contain the same warmth as a seat in the worn leather booth of yesterday’s deli. It seems the world has gone a rye.

Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor, food writer and the Culinary Director at Apron Masters Kitchen in Woodmere, NY. Naomi teaches classes throughout the tri-state area and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. For more information, visit her Instagram @cookingconcepts or website www.koshercookingconcepts.com. JANUARY 2020

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CLASSIC BRISKET & GRAVY RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT This is your ultimate “low and slow” Jewish brisket recipe. Perfect for the slow cooker or in a very low oven, the results will be tender — guaranteed. Using a second cut brisket, the fattier and more marbleized cut, will help the meat stay moist throughout the long, slow cooking process.

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TRIPLE ONION BRISKET & GRAVY

SEASONAL

RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN

THE GRAVY TRAIN

MODERN

Heimish Jewish cooking uses onions everywhere and this brisket is an homage to that. It has caramelized onions, sweet and pungent balsamicglazed cipollini onions, roasted scallions and charred scallion dust.

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CLASSIC CLASSIC DELI ROLL RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT Layering is the secret to this sweet and savory deli roll. Carefully overlapping the deli slices for even and neat slicing and layering sauce in between the layers of deli gives this roll a cohesive look and taste.

JUST 40

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UPDATED DELI ROLL RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN

MODERN

A cross between a classic deli roll and a Reuben sandwich, this dish packs a punch from the mustard-braised cabbage and duck sauce. This recipe can be made as one long roll to slice after baking, or make individual “knishes” by separating pieces, rolling and sealing the dough edges together before baking.

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CLASSIC

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LETCHO YOU WONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T BE ABLE TO LET GO OF.

LETCHO SWEETBREADS RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT Soaking in a (non-dairy) milk and lemon juice marinade helps tenderize these sweetbreads. Once blanched and lightly pressed, they are then breaded and fried. With this treatment, they end up resembling baby chicken, but still offer up the unique texture of sweetbreads. A hefty serving of letcho sauce on top dresses and absorbs into the sweetbreads, giving them a real boost of flavor. 42

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SWEETBREADS & GRAVY RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN

MODERN

The simply prepared pan-seared sweetbreads are the perfect blank canvas for Isaac's delicious mushrooms and gravy.

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CLASSIC CLASSIC FARFEL RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT The most fascinating part of the classic versus heimish cook-off was each chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farfel preference. Isaac was adamant about using untoasted Kemach egg barley, while Berish preferred Gefen untoasted, toasting some and leaving some untoasted for varying texture and color.

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BETWEEN TWO

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FARFELS BABBIE’S FARFEL RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN Toasting the farfel (aka “egg barley”) is an essential step in developing the flavor and color of the dish. Avoid relying on the “pre-toasted” varieties; they don’t deliver the same taste as toasting the farfel on the stovetop yourself. This traditional recipe is simple and unadulterated — Isaac’s modern addition of mushrooms takes it over the top.

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MODERN

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TRIPLE ONION BRISKET & GRAVY Serves: 8

slicing. In the same pan, heat gravy and caramelized onions. Return sliced brisket to pan and cook for 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss scallions with olive oil and spread on a baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, then remove a third of the scallions and set aside for garnish. Roast remaining scallions for another 15 minutes, until charred. Blend charred scallions to create onion dust. Serve brisket topped with onion dust, cipollini onions and roasted scallions.

RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN Cook’s Note: Much of the work of this sophisticated recipe is hands-off by utilizing modern appliances; the brisket is cooked in a sous vide for 24 hours until perfectly tender, so plan accordingly. Most of the gravy steps can be done in an Instant Pot to save time as well. The charred onion dust can be made a few days ahead; store in an airtight container. 1 (4-pound) second cut brisket 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil 3 cups Instant Pot Gravy (recipe pg. 50) ½ cup Caramelized Onions (recipe pg. 50) 3 bunches scallions 1 tablespoon olive oil Glazed Cipollini Onions, for serving (recipe pg. 50) Seal brisket in sous vide bag. Cook at 155°F for 24 hours. Remove from bag, pat dry and season liberally with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Sear brisket until golden crust forms, about 6 minutes per side. Let cool before 46

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BRISKET & GRAVY

Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat and sear brisket until a golden brown crust forms, about 8 minutes per side. Transfer to a large baking dish and preheat oven to 250°F. Add onions, celery and carrots to the Dutch oven and sauté over medium-low heat until softened, about 15 minutes. Add garlic, paprika, thyme and oregano. Cook another 2 minutes. Add broth to deglaze pan, then add ketchup, brown sugar and tomato paste. Scrape bottom of pan to loosen bits. Simmer until incorporated; pour over brisket. Liquid should cover brisket by three-quarters, so add more broth if necessary. Cook in the oven for 6-8 hours. Alternatively, cook on low in a slow cooker for 6-8 hours. Remove brisket from liquid and let cool slightly before slicing. Reduce liquid in a pan until thickened. Pour gravy over brisket to serve.

RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT

Season brisket with salt and pepper. Heat schmaltz or oil in a

Cook’s Note: Use a pastry brush for even glazing.

CLASSIC DELI ROLL

Serves: 8

1 (4-pound) second cut brisket 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons schmaltz or vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 3 carrots, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons paprika 3 sprigs thyme 3 sprigs oregano 3-4 cups chicken, vegetable or beef broth ¼ cup ketchup 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 tablespoons tomato paste

Preheat oven to 400°F. Roll puff pastry into a 10x15-inch rectangle. Combine duck sauce and Dijon mustard, and reserve ¼ cup for glazing. Brush sauce over puff pastry. Lay pastrami and corned beef slices over duck sauce and top with cabbage. Roll and seal edges together. Brush with egg wash and bake for 45 minutes. Glaze with reserved mustard-duck sauce, then bake for another 10 minutes, until caramelized.

Serves: 24

RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT

UPDATED DELI ROLL Serves: 10

RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN 1 sheet puff pastry dough 1 cup Homemade Duck Sauce (recipe pg. 50) ¼ cup Dijon mustard 1 pound sliced pastrami 1 pound sliced corned beef 1½ cups Melted Cabbage (recipe pg. 50) 1 egg, beaten

2 sheets puff pastry dough 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 3 cups deli mustard ⅔ cup sugar ½ cup honey 1 pound thinly sliced pastrami 1 pound thinly sliced smoked turkey breast 2 egg whites, beaten Kosher salt Sesame seeds 2 cups duck sauce Dust puff pastry with flour on both sides and roll into 2 (10x15-inch) rectangles with a rolling pin. Mix mustard, sugar and honey until combined. Spread a thin layer of honey mustard w w w.f leishigs.com

SEASONAL: RECIPES over each puff pastry sheet. Layer pastrami and then turkey, leaving a small border around all edges. Spread another layer of honey mustard over deli and repeat with another layer of deli. Continue layering until deli is used up. Roll up slowly from the longer side and seal edges. Each deli roll should be about 15-inches long. Using a sharp knife, make parallel horizontal cuts through the top of the deli roll. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with kosher salt and sesame seeds. Refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up. Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake deli rolls for 45 minutes. Remove from oven and generously glaze with duck sauce. Raise oven to 400°F and bake until duck sauce caramelizes, about 8 minutes.

SWEETBREADS & GRAVY Serves: 8

RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN Cook’s Notes: 1. Sweetbreads should be boiled the day before and weighted overnight to achieve the best texture.

around sweetbreads. Place in a pan, top with plastic wrap and weigh down with heavy pots and cans to press sweetbreads. Refrigerate 6-12 hours. After an overnight press, toss sweetbreads in flour, salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add sweetbreads and cook about 6 minutes per side, until crisp and golden brown. Set aside. Wipe out pan used to cook sweetbreads and add caramelized onions, mushrooms and gravy. Once heated through, toss sweetbreads in gravy and cook down until gravy becomes very thick. Serve over farfel and/or with parsnip purée.

2. Though it may be tedious, removing the membranes is key to a good sweetbreads dish.

LETCHO Serves: 6

3. Wondra flour (by Gold Medal) is a chef’s secret ingredient. It’s finely ground flour that has been pre-cooked and dried so that when used in dredges, gravies or sauces, it dissolves and thickens pretty quickly, without forming lumps.

MINI DELI ROLLS RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT Makes: 12 Slice puff pastry dough into 3-inch squares or use premade puff pastry squares. Follow remaining deli roll instructions, but bake at 375°F for 35 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven, brush with duck sauce and bake for another 6 minutes at 400°F until duck sauce is caramelized.

2 pounds sweetbreads 1 cup Wondra flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup grapeseed oil ½ cup Caramelized Onions (recipe pg. 50) 2 cups Instant Pot Gravy (recipe pg. 50) 2 cups Gourmet Mushrooms (recipe pg. 50) Minced chives, for serving Parsnip Purée, for serving (recipe pg. 50) Babbie’s farfel, for serving (recipe pg. 48) Fill a large stockpot with water and bring to a boil. Poach sweetbreads for about 15-20 minutes, until no longer pink. Remove excess membranes

Soak sweetbreads in coconut milk and lemon juice for 24 hours. Fill a large stockpot with water and bring to a boil; add sweetbreads and 2 teaspoons salt. Blanch for 10 minutes, then transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain sweetbreads and remove excess membranes. Press firmly between 2 towels. Cut into bite-sized pieces and place into a Ziploc bag with flour, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, onion powder, garlic powder and paprika; shake well to fully coat sweetbreads. Heat non-dairy butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add sweetbreads in a single layer and sauté until golden brown and crispy on all sides. Serve with letcho.

LETCHO SWEETBREADS Serves: 6

RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT 1½ pounds beef or veal sweetbreads 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon paprika 3 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute (we used Betterine) Letcho (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 Spanish onion, finely diced 1 red pepper, finely diced 1 yellow pepper, finely diced 1 green pepper, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon paprika ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup chicken stock Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and sauté onions until translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add peppers, garlic, salt, paprika and pepper. Cook for 20 minutes. Add 1 cup chicken stock, stir and simmer until reduced by half. Serve warm.

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CLASSIC FARFEL Serves: 6

RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT 1 (12-ounce) bag Gefen untoasted egg barley, divided 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon dried onion flakes ½ teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon sugar, optional 3 cups chicken broth (or 3 cups hot water mixed with 2 tablespoons chicken soup mix) Toast half the egg barley in a dry pan over medium heat. Once egg barley is toasted, add remaining egg barley, oil, salt, pepper, onion flakes, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika and sugar. Stir for 3 minutes. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil. Cover pan and reduce heat; simmer for 10 minutes.

BABBIE’S FARFEL Serves: 6

RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN 2 tablespoons schmaltz or vegetable oil 1 (12-ounce) bag Kemach untoasted egg barley 2 teaspoons sugar 3 cups hot chicken stock, divided 1 teaspoon kosher salt Chopped herbs, for garnish Heat schmaltz or vegetable oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Add egg barley and sugar; toast until golden brown, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 2 cups hot chicken stock, season with salt and stir until liquid is mostly absorbed. Add remaining cup of stock, cover pot and simmer for 10 minutes. Garnish with herbs before serving.

Farfel Tip: o o C king to re u Make s ith w n a use a p . d li a

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Chef Isaac's Basic SEASONAL

CARAMELIZED ONIONS Yields: 1½ cups

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 4 Spanish onions, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and salt; cook until onions just start caramelizing. Reduce heat to low and cook an additional 40 minutes, until onions are fully caramelized, stirring every few minutes.

ROASTED GARLIC Yields: 3 cups

3 cups peeled garlic cloves 2 cups grapeseed oil

Heat oven to 350°F. Place garlic in a 9x13-inch pan and cover with oil. Cover with lid or aluminum foil and cook for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook for an additional 10 minutes.

INSTANT POT GRAVY Yields: 8 cups

This gravy is so much easier to make than expected. It is rich in flavor and freezes so well — a solid investment of time and resources. Make a double batch and pull out anytime to take any dish to new heights.

Cook’s Note: This can also be made in a slow cooker; cook on low for 12 hours (overnight) or high for 6 hours. Reduce in a pot to thicken.

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8 cups beef broth 2 pounds knee bones 1 pound chicken feet ¼ cup grapeseed oil 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 1 bottle red wine

Add beef broth, knee bones and chicken feet to the bowl of an Instant Pot. Cover and cook on high pressure for 1 hour. Quick release steam according to manufacturer’s directions and wait until all steam is released. Carefully unlock pot, being mindful of any remaining steam. Heat oil in an 8-quart pot over medium heat and mix in tomato paste. Cook until tomato paste darkens, about 20 minutes. Add red wine and cook until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Strain bone broth and add to pot. Cook until reduced by half, about 40 minutes. Let cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.

HOMEMADE DUCK SAUCE Yields: 2 cups 1 tablespoon oil 2-inch knob ginger, minced 1 bottle white wine 2 sprigs rosemary, stripped and minced 1 (12-ounce) jar apricot jam

Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add ginger and sauté until aromatic, about 2-3 minutes. Add wine and rosemary; simmer over low heat until reduced by half. Add apricot jam and cook for another 10 minutes. Note: To take it up a notch, add ¼ cup Dijon mustard to 1 cup homemade or store-bought duck sauce.

GLAZED CIPOLLINI ONIONS Yields: 3 cups 2 tablespoons oil

3 cups peeled cipollini onions 1 cup balsamic vinegar 1 cup brown sugar Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and cook until golden and caramelized, about 5-7 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar and sugar; lower heat to medium and continue to cook until deeply caramelized, about 30 minutes. Alternatively, cover pan and cook in a 400°F oven for 30 minutes.

MELTED CABBAGE Yields: 3 cups Cooking the cabbage this way brings about the perfect texture. You can use vegetable oil in place of schmaltz, but schmaltz provides a subtle richness to the cabbage. 2 tablespoons schmaltz or vegetable oil 1 head cabbage, thinly sliced ¼ cup whole grain mustard 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard Add schmaltz or vegetable oil to a large pot over mediumhigh heat. Add cabbage and cook until until completely softened, about 20 minutes. Cabbage should be slightly golden brown and half its original size. Once wilted, remove from fire and stir in mustards. Use as a filling in deli roll, a topping for hot dogs or as a side dish.

PARSNIP PURÉE Yields: 4 cups The parsnip purée adds a creamy, elevated touch to the final sweetbreads dish, which Chef Isaac serves with beef jus, farfel and roasted mushrooms. We recommend using a high-powered blender like a Vitamix for the smoothest purée possible.

2 tablespoons schmaltz or vegetable oil 5 parsnips, peeled and roughly chopped 4 cups chicken stock 2 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Heat schmaltz or vegetable oil in a pot over medium heat. Add parsnips and sauté for 10 minutes until parsnips just begin to cook, but don’t achieve any color. Add stock and cook until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain parsnips and blend with oil, salt and pepper until smooth. For extra flavor, use oil from garlic confit. Can be made up to 48 hours in advance. Store, covered, in the refrigerator. Gently reheat over low heat.

GOURMET MUSHROOMS Serves: 8 These mushrooms are an excellent basic staple to have in your repertoire. Although it may feel odd, dry sweating the mushrooms first helps keep them crisp. After the first 10 minutes, the mushrooms will “squeak” slightly, which is a good indicator that you are doing it right. 2 pounds wild mushrooms 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon oil 3 sprigs fresh thyme, stripped ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Heat a large pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and salt; cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Continue cooking until mushrooms develop some color and the natural liquid of the mushrooms starts to release. At this point, add oil, thyme and black pepper. Sauté for 3 minutes. For extra flavor, use oil from garlic confit. w w w.f leishigs.com

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Deli Cra 52

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A pastrami-loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream (pass the Tums) BY N AO M I R O S S

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blogger and cookbook author Chanie Apfelbaum, who joined the crawl in Brooklyn. Mehudar’s deli was driven to make the classics done right.

hey were a motley crew, on their way to discover the best in today’s kosher deli scene. The Great Fleishigs Deli Crawl commenced late on a Thursday afternoon in November, Brooklyn-bound with high hopes and empty stomachs. Was the Jewish deli a thing of the past? Were there any old-world delis left to be found? If not, what is the face of the new modern deli? The first stop on the deli train was at Essen NY Deli on Coney Island Avenue. Staying true to the old school ambiance, Essen has maintained the feel of the deli of yesteryear. It features vintage deli cases that display their own house-cured deli meats, a full entrée menu and the option for a homey sit-down dining experience. “Essen is the quintessential deli. When I think of deli, I am really thinking of Essen,” expressed Shlomo Klein. Their over-the-top signature dish, an oversized potato knish smothered in gravy and topped with sliced brisket, is like a big culinary hug from Bubby. It is not clear when Chinese food became a staple on Jewish deli menus, but if serving up good sesame chicken is any indication of the changing face of the

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Jewish delicatessen, then Essen has indeed kept up to satisfy the modern palate. And yes, their sesame chicken (as well as all their Chinese food) is worth trying. Jews have a long-standing love affair with Chinese food and the Great Fleishigs Deli Crawl confirmed this, amongst other discoveries, along the way. The next stop was Mehudar, a small, modern day butcher shop that takes heimish fare seriously. Their yapchik, kishka, chopped liver and grieven were all well-received. P'tcha, garlicky calves foot jelly, has always been a hard-acquired heimish taste for many traumatized by bad renditions. “I have nightmares of my mother’s p'tcha but I tried it here and it was actually quite good,” shared Busy in Brooklyn

A few blocks away, in the heart of Borough Park, awaited Gourmet Glatt, where a different type of modern deli is taking shape in kosher supermarkets today. Much like at Flatbush’s Pomegranate, “haute heimish” is the new age deli, where gourmet updated offerings like braised English short ribs have taken the place of flanken. Elegant dishes like glazed duck, French meat roulades and Asian-inspired tastes are all part of the new deli counter takeout. Even classics like cholent and yapchik get makeovers with a variety of different flavor profiles. For the busy, savvy consumer, the opportunity for upscale onestop shopping and catering is a compelling one. The crawl moved on to Zion, a Yemenite deli on 13th Avenue. There are no Ashkenazic heimish dishes here, but rather sweet Yemenite kubaneh and flat lachuch breads, along with a world of Jewish cooking not commonly found in the heart of Borough Park. The spiced aromas that wafted out of the small store were reminiscent of the culinary scent of Israel. “The food was great, but was this really ‘deli’?” the crawl crew wondered. Was it any less “deli” than the Chinese food at the takeout counter? The next era of kosher takeout may look very different than mama’s kishke or a classic pastrami on rye but the real question is — will it still taste like home?

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While Jewish deli has been trending for years in the non-kosher sector, very few kosher Jewish deli spots remain, but that doesn’t mean deli is dead. Kosher delis have simply been upgraded by supermarket and butcher deli counters and heimish takeout restaurants. Additionally, classic spots have added items like Chinese food and burgers to their menus. The following is not a complete listing of “real deal” kosher Jewish delis, but is a substantial list of places we’ve frequented and enjoyed. THE CLASSICS TRI-STATE AREA

Essen Deli (Flatbush, Brooklyn) is an iconic deli spot, where you can munch on a hefty pastrami sandwich while eating one of the best sesame chicken dishes on the market. They cure and steam their pastrami in house and you can tell. Mendy’s (NYC & Crown Heights) serves up the classics like tongue, pastrami on rye and corned beef, with the additions of Israeli (falafel, schnitzel and shawarma) and American-style (burgers and steaks) sandwiches and platters. Hungarian Kosher Takeout and Mehudar (Borough Park, Brooklyn) are two takeout spots in Brooklyn that really hit the mark when it comes to heimish food. Traditions (Lawrence, NY) is a well-known eatery that offers classic deli fare in a newly renovated space with waiter service. LOS ANGELES Got Kosher, a Los Angeles takeout and deli restaurant, offers weekly lunch and dinner menus as well as Shabbos takeout. Unique

to its location is the addition of Persian specialties to appeal to the large local Persian community. Pico Kosher Deli is a casual, nofrills restaurant where you feel transported back in time. PKD offers up solid pastrami on rye sandwiches with classic coleslaw and a pickle on the side. MIAMI Brickell Kosher Deli offers a complete menu including make-your-own sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. They cater and deliver to the Miami area. Their signature deli sandwiches, like the P.L.T. (pastrami, lettuce, tomato) and Sriracha crispy chicken are musts. Marble & Ry, located in the Lincoln Mall Eatery in South Beach, offers classic deli sandwiches in a fun environment.

BALTIMORE Wasserman Lemberger is THE spot in Baltimore to get kosher meat and deli, all made in-house. They also offer high-end charcuterie like beef pancetta and veal copa. Like Romanian, they do not offer prepared meals or sandwiches, but you will find deli and charcuterie unavailable anywhere else. THE NEW JEWISH DELI NEW YORK Supermarkets like Gourmet Glatt (Brooklyn, Five Towns and Lakewood), Evergreen (Monsey), Pomegranate (Flatbush) and Breadberry (Borough Park) all offer gourmet options like braised short ribs, duck confit and sous vide steaks.

CHICAGO NEW JERSEY Romanian Kosher Sausage Co., in business since 1957, is a community staple deli and butcher shop. They make everything inhouse and are famous for their salami and sausages. Bear in mind that this is not a restaurant.

Yapchik is the premiere spot in Lakewood for classic and modern takeout, with an epic Thursday night spread and buffet. South Side Sandwich Shop is another fusion-style deli located in Lakewood that offers both deli

sandwiches and American smokehouse favorites. The Humble Toast in Teaneck serves fresh, modern takes on deli classics. FLORIDA With three locations in South Florida (Boca Raton, Ft. Lauderdale and Bal Harbour), The Grove Kosher Market offers gourmet deli and everyday dinners to-go. The Grove sells ready-to-heat meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as an entire Shabbos spread. The Grove is an example of a supermarket chain making waves in the kosher industry. LOS ANGELES Western Kosher has two locations and offers basic and gourmet takeout plus all your grocery needs. Lieder’s is famous for their Shabbos takeout and rental services for necessities like hot plates. Aside from their famous sausages, Jeff’s Gourmet Sausage Factory serves hot and cold deli sandwiches as well as American classics like burgers and wings that never disappoint.

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Yehuda Sichel

ehuda Sichel is all about reinventing the Ashkenazi classics. At his restaurant in Philadelphia, Abe Fisher, he serves up nightly menus of Ashkenazi food that “speaks Jewish with chutzpah.” Although Yehuda’s restaurant isn’t kosher, he specializes in updated heimish food, so we invited him on the crawl to hear an expert chef’s take on the kosher deli scene.

In 2010, Sichel started working for Chef Solomonov at CookNSolo's ground-breaking Israeli restaurant Zahav, quickly rising to the rank of sous chef. Four years later, he began making his own culinary mark at the helm of Abe Fisher, devising a menu that speaks to the Jews' movement across Europe throughout the Middle Ages. He sought to pay homage to centuries of tradition while embracing the idea that cultural exchange places cuisine in a continuous state of evolution. Abe Fisher has earned a “Three Bells" review from Philadelphia Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan, who sited 56

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Chef Sichel’s signature dish of Montreal Smoked Short Ribs as the “Feast of The Year” in 2014. That same year, Food Republic called the same dish “smoked meat nirvana" and Zagat named Sichel as one of 30 "Rock Stars Redefining the Industry" in Philadelphia. Abe Fisher was named “Best New Restaurant” in the January 2015 issue of Travel + Leisure and the restaurant earned a semifinalist nomination in the “Best New Restaurant” category of the 2015 James Beard Awards. Fleishigs was honored to have Yehuda join the deli crawl. Having never been to the Brooklyn delis, he didn’t know what to expect, but overall was impressed with the taste and quality. Essen was his favorite of the night. “Best corned beef and pastrami ever! It was sliced thin and melted in your mouth,” he noted. Sichel believes that heimish foods should be authentic in both taste and feel – you can reinvent, “but without messing with the integrity of the dish.” He felt Mehudar accomplished this with their cholent and yapchik, a highlight of his crawl experience. “The beans were perfectly cooked. Whatever they did, they did it right,” he laughed. When Sichel was growing up, dining out on these Jewish comfort foods never quite compared to their homemade counterparts. “It was always subpar to home cooking [in quality],” he confided. Going on this modern deli crawl was an eye-opener for Yehuda, who admitted that it was “better than I ever had at an eatery before.” Yehuda enjoyed all the stops on the “tour de deli” and can’t wait to go back. His only complaint? “I wish I had a bigger appetite!”

BY CHEF YEHUDA SICHEL

ABE FISHER’S CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE Serves: 6-8 as an appetizer ½-¾ cup chicken stock 1 pound broiled chicken livers 5 tablespoons schmaltz or vegetable oil ½ cup Caramelized Onions (recipe pg. 50) 2 hard boiled eggs Gribenes, optional, for serving Crackers, for serving Pastrami Onion Jam, for serving (recipe follows) Add ½ cup chicken stock, chicken livers, schmaltz or oil, onions and hard boiled eggs to a food processor and process until completely smooth. If the mixture seems too thick, add additional chicken stock as necessary. Pass the mousse through a fine mesh sieve, pressing down with a spatula. Let cool in the fridge overnight. Serve with gribenes, crackers and Pastrami Onion Jam.

PASTRAMI ONION JAM Yields: about 1 cup ¼ pound cooked pastrami, roughly diced 1 tablespoon oil 1 large red onion, diced 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons honey Place diced pastrami in food processor and pulse until coarse. Preheat a small sauté pan over low heat. Add ground pastrami, oil and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until onions are completely translucent. Add vinegar and honey; cook until deeply caramelized and liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes.

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Restaurant Recipes: Deli Deli

Remakes Remakes

CHOLENT POT PIE Serves: 4

RECIPE BY YEHUDA SICHEL This is not your ordinary cholent. It’s taken up a notch with short ribs, red wine and a pot pie-style preparation. Cook’s Note: Instead of making the pot pie version, simply place mixture in a slow cooker and cook on low overnight to serve as cholent for Shabbos day. It’s one of the best we’ve tasted. 1 cup pearled barley 1 cup dried kidney beans 1 tablespoon canola oil ¾ pound boneless short ribs, cut into 2-inch cubes 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ pound salami, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 large yellow onion, cut into 8 wedges 1 stalk celery, sliced 1 carrot, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup ketchup ½ cup red wine 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon hot smoked paprika 1 cube beef bouillon 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 sweet potato, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 Idaho potato, cut into 1-inch cubes ½ cup chopped parsley 1 sheet puff pastry or pie dough 1 large egg, beaten Combine barley and kidney beans in a large bowl and cover with 58

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water by several inches. Let soak overnight in the refrigerator. In the morning, drain and set aside. Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat oil in a 4-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season short ribs with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper; add to pot and brown for about 3 minutes per side. Transfer ribs to a plate. Add salami and cook until browned, about 10 minutes. Set aside with ribs. Add onions, celery, carrot, garlic and remaining ½ teaspoon salt to the Dutch oven and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened and are slightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add ketchup and continue to cook for 2-3 minutes until mixture starts to bubble. Add red wine and bring to a boil for 1-2 minutes to cook out the alcohol. Add cumin, paprika, bouillon cube and 4 cups water; stir to combine. Return to a boil and add beans, barley, short ribs, salami, rosemary, sweet potatoes and potatoes to pot. The liquid in the stew should be just covering the meat. Remove excess liquid or add additional water as necessary. Cover and cook in the oven for about 3 hours or until short ribs are fork tender. To allow flavors to meld, let the stew cool, covered, then refrigerate overnight. (You can skip the overnight chill if you are on a time crunch.) The following day, preheat oven to 375°F. Simmer gently to reheat. Sprinkle with parsley and drape puff pastry over the sides of the pot. Roll out if necessary, in order to fit. Crimp dough around the edges of the pot and trim away any excess. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Bake until the pastry is golden brown, 12-15 minutes. w w w.f leishigs.com

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Restaurant Recipes: Deli Deli

Remakes Remakes

Isaac Bernstein, this month’s guest editor, has spearheaded the menu and concept behind the Brooklyn hotspot Gruit (read more about it in issue #9). Gruit’s aim is to provide modern takes on classic heimish comfort food. Current executive chef Erick VargasBromberg does just that with dishes like everything bagel-crusted chicken fingers, duck pastrami Reuben-style, beef cheek stuffed cabbage and short ribs served with a modern spin on potato kugel. Chef Erick generously shared his take on some of his favorite Jewish deli classics, the potato knish and kishka. Who knows — maybe they’ll show up on Gruit’s menu one day!

CHAR SIU “PIROSHKI” KNISH Serves: 16 The classic cabbage knish gets an upgrade from smoky braised beef bacon, inspired by char siu, a classic Cantonese dish. You can order slab beef bacon online from Grow & Behold or from Abeles & Heymann, available in many kosher supermarkets. For the meat: 2 pounds thick slab beef bacon (about 1-inch thick) ¼ cup pomegranate juice ¼ cup brown sugar ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup mirin or rice vinegar 1 tablespoon Lapsang tea 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 1 tablespoon freshly grated garlic For the cabbage: 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 large yellow onion, diced 1 pinch caraway seeds, optional 4 cups shredded green cabbage 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1½ teaspoons sugar Kosher salt, to taste

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Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 bay leaf 2 sheets puff pastry dough, fully defrosted 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon poppy seeds ½ tablespoon sea salt For the meat: Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and sear bacon until fully browned on both sides. In a braising pan, whisk pomegranate juice, brown sugar, soy sauce, mirin, tea, ginger and garlic until combined. Add bacon. Cover and cook for 1 hour. Remove bacon from pan and cut into ½-inch cubes. Strain liquid through a fine mesh strainer into a saucepan, then simmer until reduced by half. Let cool and toss bacon cubes in the sauce. Set aside. For the cabbage: Heat canola oil in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and caraway seeds, if using. Sauté onions until translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add cabbage, tomato paste and sugar. Season with salt and pepper

and stir well to combine. Add bay leaf, cover pot and cook for 20 minutes. If mixture seems too dry, add a few tablespoons of water to help the mixture break down. Let cool. Preheat oven to 375°F. On a lightly floured board, roll out one sheet of puff pastry to a ¼-inch thickness. Stretch out dough if necessary. In a large bowl, combine cabbage mixture and bacon to create the filling.

Spread about 1½ cups of mixture over the dough. Roll up and pinch seams together well. Repeat with remaining sheet of puff pastry and cabbage mixture. Brush egg wash over rolls. Sprinkle evenly with poppy seeds and sea salt. Bake for 35-40 minutes. Once cooled, slice 2-inch pieces on the diagonal.

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KISHKA SCOTCH EGGS Serves: 6 Based on a traditional British dish, this is a recipe for someone who likes to experiment and try new things. The flavors are unparalleled and a welcomed change from traditional kishka. Cook’s Note: Baking soda and vinegar make peeling the eggs much easier. ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon vinegar 6 large eggs 8 ounces prepared kishka 4 ounces hot Italian sausage or chorizo (about 1 large link) 2 tablespoons teriyaki sauce, plus more for garnish 2 tablespoons mayonnaise, plus more for garnish 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons chopped chives 1 cup panko breadcrumbs, finely pulsed in a food processor Canola oil, for frying Fill a pot with 2 quarts water. Add baking soda and

vinegar and bring to a boil. Gently add eggs and continue boiling for exactly 6 minutes. Remove eggs and transfer to an ice bath (1:1 ratio of ice and water). Once cooled, peel eggs very gently. Cut kishka and the sausage into ½-inch chunks. In a food processor (or if you have a meat grinder attachment on your stand mixer), mix or grind kishka and sausage together to form a crumbly, pliable texture, similar to ground beef. Transfer to a bowl and add teriyaki sauce, mayonnaise, mustard and herbs. Mix with your hands until combined. Add panko to a separate bowl and set aside. Divide meat mixture into 6 equal portions. Working with wet hands, carefully wrap each egg with a portion of meat until it is evenly coated. The mixture should cover the entire surface area of the egg. Next, roll in panko. Fill a pot halfway with canola oil and heat to 375°F. When oil is hot, add the eggs and deep fry until golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Serve with mayonnaise and teriyaki sauce. JANUARY 2020

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are a dish that everyone should know how to make. Let's set the record straight: a chicken capon is not a type of a bird. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a skin-on, boneless chicken thigh and is the hottest Jewish deli takeout dish and a favorite of many caterers. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so difficult to mess up. Juicy, tender, dark meat chicken with the skin on is the ideal wrap for almost any stuffing imaginable. It freezes well, reheats well and makes for a dramatic presentation.

There are so many different ways to stuff capons and so many options with which to fill them. This feature will discuss the basic options and showcase three incredible pantry-staples as filling ingredients.

Step 1

Place chicken capons skin-side down on work surface. To help tenderize it, use a sharp paring knife to cut shallow slits into the chicken, making sure not to pierce the skin. Punch the center (this is the classic heimish technique) or use a meat mallet to further achieve an even thickness.

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2 p e St

Place about 2 tablespoons of stuffing into the center and roll, like a jelly roll. This is THE way to do it.

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Step 4

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Glaze. Make sure to be generous; it’s all about packing in the flavor. The topping is also what gives the capons color. In heimish cooking, paprika and duck sauce are used to provide color and flavor to many dishes, including capons.

Step 3

Place capons, seam side down, in baking pan of choice. The idea is to pack the capons tightly — four per loaf pan or eight per 9x13-inch dish. A more gourmet option is to use ramekins to cook the capons individually. The secret is to wrap the capon by bringing the skin together to pull the four corners in, which really seals it tightly. You can serve it in the ramekin or invert it. Use any size you prefer; a smaller (6-ounce) ramekin will create a muffinlike effect. Baking capons in ramekins is a great option for a sheva brachot or a Shabbos meal when serving a duet of chicken and beef.

I recommend glazing with a mixture of crushed garlic, paprika, salt and oil. Cook, covered, at 325°F for 30 minutes. Glaze with duck sauce, either the homemade version on pg. 50 or any store bought brand. Increase oven temperature to 400°F and roast, uncovered, for another 15 minutes for that ultimate crispy top.

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Truffle Challah Stuffing s â&#x20AC;&#x2122; e i ith b b a B fel w oms r a F ushro M

Broccoli Stuffing

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TRUFFLE CHALLAH STUFFING Serves: 8

BROCCOLI STUFFING

1 challah, cut into large chunks ¼ cup duck fat or olive oil 2 tablespoons truffle oil ½ cup parsley, minced ½ cup chives, minced ½ cup Roasted Garlic (recipe pg. 50) ½ cup Caramelized Onions (recipe pg. 50) 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Serves: 8 1 (24-ounce) bag frozen broccoli, thawed ½ cup breadcrumbs ¼ cup Roasted Garlic (recipe pg. 50) ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Add all ingredients to a food processor and pulse until almost smooth, with some chunks of broccoli remaining. Stuff 2 tablespoons of mixture into each capon and follow cooking instructions in the stepby-step guide.

Combine all ingredients in the bowl of stand mixer. Mix using paddle attachment until a cohesive mixture forms. Stuff 2 tablespoons of mixture into each capon and follow cooking instructions in the step-by-step guide.

BABBIE’S FARFEL WITH MUSHROOMS Yield: 3½ cups 2 cups cooked farfel, cooked according to instructions on pg. 48 1 cup Gourmet Mushrooms (recipe pg. 50), chopped ⅓ cup chopped chives Combine cooked farfel, mushrooms and chopped chives. Stuff 2 tablespoons of mixture into each capon. Follow cooking instructions in the step-by-step guide.

HUNGARIAN GLAZE Makes: 1 cup 1 cup vegetable oil 6 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper Combine ingredients. Use to glaze capons before cooking. JANUARY 2020

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BY SHIFRA KLEIN Coleslaw is the deli staple that brings a crunchy, creamy and cool factor to classics like pastrami on rye. The main elements of a solid coleslaw â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cabbage, carrots, onions (sometimes) and a mayonnaise-based dressing â&#x20AC;&#x201D; can be adapted to create some sensational upgrades to the classic slaw, worthy of being served at any Shabbos or holiday meal.

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Upda t

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e TIP! For extra texture, use a combination of whatever green cabbage varieties you can find. Napa cabbage is used in many Asian recipes and is lighter than Savoy and classic green cabbage.

Snappy Red Cabbage Slaw

Dressed slaws can be refrigerated up to four hours in advance of serving, so the flavors have a chance to meld together; just add the garnishes right before serving.

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Tahini Slaw

Serves: 8 This recipe is the perfect example of a mayonnaise-free slaw. I decided to use tahini as the creamy element and added pistachios and radishes for the perfect textural contrast. Needless to say, it was a huge hit.

Wasabi Slaw Serves: 8 The inspiration for this slaw comes from the version served at the deli counter at our local supermarket, Gourmet Glatt. Their addition of wasabi and black sesame seeds to the classic side is one of our favorites. I amped it up with toasted ramen and sliced scallions. 4 cups shredded Savoy or Napa cabbage 3 carrots, peeled and shredded 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 1 (2.8-ounce) package instant ramen noodles ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sugar 2 tablespoons wasabi powder 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ teaspoon kosher salt ⅓ cup black sesame seeds Combine cabbage, carrots and scallions. Preheat oven to 350°F. Break up ramen noodles and spread onto a sheet pan or 9x13-inch baking dish. Toast in the oven until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool. Whisk mayonnaise, sugar, wasabi, rice wine vinegar, lemon juice and salt in a bowl. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and toss to coat. Stir in sesame seeds and top with toasted ramen.

Fleishigs

JANUARY 2020

3 cups shredded green cabbage 3 carrots, peeled and julienned 1 English cucumber, julienned 1 cup julienned watermelon radish (or daikon radish) 2 scallions, thinly sliced ⅓ cup raw tahini paste 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons water Juice and zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon honey 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup pistachios, chopped ½ cup chopped parsley, for garnish, optional Combine cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, radishes and scallions. In a separate bowl, whisk tahini, olive oil, water, lemon zest and juice, sesame oil, honey, garlic, salt and pepper until emulsified. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and toss to coat. To serve, top with chopped pistachios and fresh parsley, if using.

honey mustard dressing. To take this slaw to the next level, I made some sweet and spicy candied almonds. I recommend making a double batch of them to snack on — everyone loves them! Note: In her book, Whole Foods Kitchen, notable food writer and cookbook author Levana Kirschenbaum suggests peeling the outer layer of celery in order to mellow the texture and make it easier to eat. Once I began incorporating this tip, celery started making many more appearances in my recipes. 4 cups shredded red cabbage 2 cups snap peas, julienned 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh basil, thinly sliced 1 cup sliced almonds 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ¼ cup Dijon mustard ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon deli mustard 1 clove garlic, minced ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Combine cabbage, snap peas, celery and basil. Set aside. In a cool, dry pan, add almonds, sugar and red pepper flakes. Cook over mediumhigh heat until sugar begins to caramelize. Stir for 3 minutes to coat almonds in sugar. Transfer to a piece of parchment paper and let cool. Once cool, break into chunks and store in an airtight container or Ziploc bag for up to 2 weeks. To make the dressing, combine Dijon mustard, olive oil, red wine vinegar, honey, deli mustard, garlic, salt and pepper in a jar; cover with lid and shake until emulsified. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and toss to coat. Top with candied almonds before serving.

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Snappy Red Cabbage Slaw Serves: 8 One of my favorite ways to update a classic coleslaw is with the addition of red cabbage. Here I added a few other crunchy vegetables and a delicious — and versatile — w w w.f leishigs.com

Del Campo Pulled Beef Tacos - Serves 8 You will need:

• Chuck stew meat -4 lbs. cut into chunks. • Olive oil - 2 tablespoons • Salt - 1 tsp or to taste • Del Campo Garlic Pepper - 1 tsp • Del Campo Adobo Spice - 1 tsp • Del Campo Fajita Spice - 1 tsp • Del Campo Chili Powder - 1 Tbsp • Garlic - 4 cloves fresh, chopped • Onion - fresh, chopped • Tomato sauce - 2 cups • Barbecue sauce - 1 cup • DELCAMPO GOURMET MINI TACO SHELLS - 24 shells

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. 2. Heat oil in large frying pan . 3. Add meat to hot oil a few chunks at a time, and brown on all sides. 4. Remove browned chunks to a large, oven-safe casserole. Continue browning until all chunks are used. 5. Sprinkle salt and pepper on beef chunks. 6. Add all remaining Ingredients. 7. Cover casserole tightly, place in hot oven.

8. Bake until the meat is "fall-apart" and can be pulled apart easily with 2 forks. (Approx 2 ½ hours) 9. Stir shredded meat into sauce until well blended. 10. Fill taco shells with approximately 2 Tbsp meat. 11. Top with shredded lettuce. Leftover meat can be refrigerated or frozen. Expect people to ask for seconds and thirds!

Del Campo Tortilla Co. • Lakewood, NJ • Phone: 732.994.5500 • Email: taco2us@gmail.com Web: www.delcampotortillas.com • Instagram: delcampotortillas

Naftali Engel

INTERVIEW

Fleishigs

JANUARY 2020

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INTERVIEW

How did The Rebbe’s Choice begin? I first started making herring in 2014 when I was in Israel at Yeshiva Ohr Yerushalayim (OJ) because I could not find anything I liked. At that time, herring in Israel was either super slimy, full of bones or just bland. After spending a Shabbos in Tzfat where I had an amazing homemade herring, I asked for the recipe and realized it was a little different. “First, you have to dance with the fish, then say Tikkun Haklali with the fish. After that, sit down and say some Shemios Hatzadikim to the fish. If you can, go to the Mikvah before you prepare the fish…” That was not the type of recipe I was looking for! I got a basic recipe from my brother who also lives in Tzfat. I experimented with it until it became what is now our Jalapeño Matjes Herring. I began serving it on Shabbos in OJ and eventually started selling it out of my dorm room. After returning from my second year of Yeshiva in 2016, I officially started The Rebbe’s Choice, selling door-to-door.

What inspires the creativity at Rebbe’s Choice? Once I started making my own herring, I wanted to debunk the myth that herring is “old school.” Herring allowed me to showcase my creativity and take an old European Jewish staple and make it fresh and new. Beyond our herring, we offer three delicious varieties of smoked salmon, including one made with the famous Judd’s Memphis brisket rub. We also recently launched our Flatbread Kichel, herring’s perfect accompaniment. We are always looking to be different and delicious.

Do you have any background in food? I have no formal culinary training and no one in my family has ever worked in the food industry, but from a young age I have always enjoyed being in the kitchen and playing around with ingredients. Growing up, I was a very picky eater but once I started experimenting with my own flavors, my palate expanded and now I’m very adventurous with food. As I got older, I educated myself by reading cookbooks and watching cooking shows and YouTube channels, which also helped me develop my own creative flair when it came to cooking. That creative side is quite apparent in the flavors and branding of The Rebbe’s Choice.

What were some of your first flavors? Jalapeño Matjes Herring; Smoky Za’atar Herring; Honey Mustard Sriracha Herring; and Sweet Black Pepper Herring. Since then, our brand has grown and we are continuing to add more unique and delicious

flavors, including a separate brand of herring called “Litfish Herring,” which are the classic flavors people associate with herring, done in a gourmet, wholesome way.

What inspired the name and branding? My life and upbringing have been heavily influenced by Chassidus. So when I had the idea of going into the herring business, my sister-in-law came up with the name “The Rebbe’s Choice” and I fell in love with it. I immediately hired an illustrator to bring my vision of a Rebbe holding a fish to reality. It took a couple of hours but soon enough, I had my beloved logo. Fast forward two years to when I met my now-wife, Remi, for the first time. Her father looked EXACTLY like my logo! I always joke that I would look at my logo and say, “Whoever this guy is, I’m going to marry his daughter.”

from the mustard. But there’s still some underlying sweetness to wrap it all up! You can read about the inspiration behind each flavor on the back of each container or on our website, www.therebbeschoice.com.

What is some of the best feedback you’ve had? I love hearing the general compliments that our herrings, smoked salmon or kichel are delicious and that the flavors are on point. But my favorite compliments are when people tell me how much The Rebbe’s Choice or Litfish have enhanced their Shabbos. Or how learning about different Chasidic Rebbes has inspired them to take on new learning endeavors or even base an after-kiddush shiur on the teachings of the Rebbe who inspired the flavor of herring they served in shul.

Any new flavors? Our newest flavor of The Rebbe’s Choice is our Everything Bagel Spice Herring & Lox. It combines the amazing flavors of both herring and smoked salmon in one delicious cream sauce. We also just released a new flavor under our Litfish brand, “Natural Matjes,” which is a deeply flavorful, savory and sweet herring that has no food coloring, unlike most Matjes herrings out there.

What is the future of herring?

Besides the name, The Rebbe’s Choice, each of our products is inspired by a different Chasidic Rebbe. Many think that we come up with the flavors first and the Rebbeim later, but I usually find inspiration from the Torah or stories that I am learning from a specific Rebbe that drive me to be creative with different flavor profiles.

The future of herring is very bright. Herring is one of the healthiest fish options available. It’s full of protein and vitamins and high in Omega-3s — people are starting to appreciate herring for its health benefits. Herring is also one of the most sustainable fish products in the world, so we can assure that our product is good for you and not affecting the environment negatively.

Can you share one of your favorite backstories?

What’s your favorite fleishigs/ non-herring dish?

One of our best sellers, Honey Mustard Sriracha Herring, is inspired by Rav Menachem Mendel of Kotzk who, besides for having a great breadth of Torah knowledge, is known to have had a very sharp and fiery personality, while always striving to uncover the truth and reality in every situation. That fiery kick is brought through with some Sriracha and the sharpness

I love anything fleishigs — AND Fleishigs! But more specifically — a delicious steak is the way to my heart!

@therebbeschoice www.therebbeschoice.com

JANUARY 2020

Fleishigs

BY GABRIEL GELLER

L'CHAIM

DELI PAIRINGS Wine Your (Deli) Dine.

airing wine with deli is a relatively common thread on my Facebook group, Kosher Wine: Sharing & Experiences. Every time someone posts inquiring for wine pairing advice for deli or BBQ, the most common answers are either beer or soda, advice that makes me cringe. Now, please don’t get me wrong, I drink beer very often and enjoy it a lot, especially sour ales, with the occasional stout or IPA. I do drink soda occasionally, as well. With that being said, I enjoy pairing deli with wine and I see no reason whatsoever why they wouldn’t go together. So for this special deli issue of Fleishigs, I’ve put together some wine pairing suggestions, having in mind the most classic deli dishes and sandwiches one can find at popular spots like Mendy’s (NYC) and Pico Kosher Deli (LA), my favorite deli joints.

HOT PASTRAMI SANDWICH:

Pastrami is decadent, fat and rich in flavor. That calls for a full-bodied wine with nice grip and acidity to make it all work well together. Herzog Special Reserve Alexander Valley 2016 is a classic and always a safe value. This release is undoubtedly one of the very best, featuring a delightful ripe black fruit profile, masterfully balanced by a typical Sonoma elegance of healthy acidity and softness.

CORNED BEEF SANDWICH:

Corned beef is usually made from brisket, most commonly first cut. Much leaner than the second cut, it calls for a medium-bodied red or even a rosé. Goose Bay Pinot Noir Rosé 2018 combines the delicate flavors of strawberry and cherry with refreshing acidity and a very subtle hint of sweetness.

TONGUE SANDWICH:

Aaaah, tongue... tongue is really one of my favorite things to eat. It also has a high proportion of fat, but its flavor profile is very savory. Pinot Noir is a magical grape variety that combines acidity, earthiness and a delicate berry character. There are very few Israeli wineries that manage to produce a fine Pinot Noir in a climate that is not so friendly for this variety. However, Vitkin Pinot Noir 2018 really showcases winemaker Assaf Paz’s expertise; it would pair perfectly with any tongue-based dish.

Fleishigs

JANUARY 2020

REUBEN SANDWICH:

I like my Reuben sandwich with a mix of sauerkraut, pickles, sautéed onions and spicy mustard. This combination requires a fuller-bodied yet fruit-forward white wine to handle the richness of the meat, as well as the spiciness and sourness of the toppings. Covenant Israel Blue C Viognier 2018 has all the right attributes to enhance this personal favorite.

HOT DOG:

Sometimes a good ol’ dog with some sauerkraut and mustard is all you need for a delicious and satisfying lunch. A hot dog pairs perfectly with a nice dry and acidic white like Koenig Riesling 2017.

MATZAH BALL SOUP:

While not always associated with deli, I could never imagine walking into a Jewish deli restaurant that doesn’t feature matzah ball soup on its menu. It is not a very rich dish, though, and the chicken broth is usually salty and a bit peppery. Such a flavor profile calls for a light to mediumbodied off-dry white wine. Binyamina Ha’Moshava Gewürztraminer 2018 has all the spicy, sweet and floral qualities of the variety and is really well-made, as well as very affordable. It doesn’t come in the traditional thin-shaped bottle like most Gewürztraminers do, but that actually helps it stand out on the shelf.

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RECIPE INDEX

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 15 Basil Macadamia Pesto 50 Caramelized Onions 50 Roasted Garlic 50 Instant Pot Gravy 50 Homemade Duck Sauce 56 Pastrami Onion Jam 61 6-Minute Eggs 67 Hungarian Glaze

FISH 15 Fried Gefilte Fish Patties 17 Spinach Gefilte Roulade 17 Sesame Teriyaki Gefilte Balls 17 Ratatouille Gefilte Fish 82 Herring Platter

VEGETABLES & SIDES 24 Togarashi Cabbage 47 Letcho 48 Classic Farfel 48 Babbie’s Farfel 50 Glazed Cipollini Onions 50 Melted Cabbage 50 Parsnip Purée 50 Gourmet Mushrooms 67 Truffle Challah Stuffing 67 Broccoli Stuffing 67 Babbie’s Farfel with Mushrooms 70 Wasabi Slaw 70 Tahini Slaw 70 Snappy Red Cabbage Slaw

MEAT 24 Easy Overnight Pastrami 24 Mustard-Braised Pastrami 24 Pastrami Taco Platter 24 Bowtie Pastrami Salad 46 Triple Onion Brisket & Gravy 46 Brisket & Gravy 46 Updated Deli Roll 46 Classic Deli Roll 47 Mini Deli Rolls 47 Sweetbreads & Gravy 47 Letcho Sweetbreads 56 Abe Fisher’s Chicken Liver Mousse 58 Cholent Pot Pie 60 Char Siu “Piroshki” Knish 61 Kishka Scotch Eggs 64 Chicken Capons

SWEET TREATS 19 Black and White Cookies 32 Apple Kugel 80 Flourless Chocolate Cake 80

Fleishigs

JANUARY 2020

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes Serves: 8 1 stick unsalted butter or nonhydrogenated margarine, cut into pieces 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 5 eggs ½ cup sugar Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly grease a 9-inch round springform or cake pan. Line the bottom of the pan with a round of parchment paper, then lightly grease the parchment. In a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, melt the butter and

chocolate. Stir in the vanilla and salt. In a stand mixer, beat together the eggs and sugar at medium-high speed until the mixture is pale yellow and has doubled in volume, about 5 minutes. Pour the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture and gently fold until fully combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and gently smooth the top. Bake until the center of the cake is just set, 35–40 minutes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool completely. The cake will sink as it cools. Unmold the cake and place on a serving plate. Serve at room temperature.

Reprinted with permission from THE JEWISH COOKBOOK

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Proud to feature Shiloh Wines

LAST BITE

Herring Platter Modernize herring, the most heimish of Jewish kiddush fare, by plating up your favorite varieties with thinly sliced red onion, cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes a few 6-minute eggs (see pg. 61) and kichel, of course.

Fleishigs

JANUARY 2020

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