Fleishigs Magazine Issue 001 - Nov 2018 by Fleishigs Magazine

M E D I U M D O N E

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ISSUE

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MISSION page 37 IMPOSSIBLE: THE BURGER

N O V. 2 0 1 8

ISRAELI SOUL (ON A PLATE)

N 001

KNOW YOUR KNIVES

THE

TRENDS ISSUE

ALE

ON NT RA TA U A RES

Stop Butchering the broil

I pg

DEMYSTIFYING LONDON BROIL pg

USA $5.99 / Canada $6.99 / UK £5 Australia $9 / SA R90 / Israel 25

Q ua l i t y P

roduct

From artisan charcuterie boards to next-level garnishes, compliments are easy to come by when you insist on Shor Habor’s hard salami. Visit us at Booth 601.

Artiﬁcial Ingredients

Added Fillers

Artiﬁcial Flavors

Love at first bite.

contents

6 22

EDITOR'S LETTER

BUTCHER’S CUT

Demystifying London Broil

BOOK REVIEW Michael Solomonov & Steve Cook are back at it with Israeli Soul

SEASONAL FEATURE Cook the Trends + Classics We Love Pitaya Bowls 33 Eat the Rainbow 34

Number Cakes 35 Plant Based Alternatives 36 Beets are In 38 Beyond Rib Steak 41 Charcuterie 42 Technology 44 Middle Eastern Cuisine 46

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Hawaij 48 Time for Seconds 54

Alenbi: The Art of Fine Dining +Kosher Guru’s Top 5

The Classics 56

WINE COLUMN: Be a Rule Breaker

MODERN HEIMISH Chef Isaac Bernstein shares a Pom Prime Shabbos staple

SEASONAL FEATURE

TRAVEL Croatia + Recipes

Cook the Trends + Classics We Love

CHALLAH Cook the Classics

62 TRAVEL

WHOLESOME EATING Smoothie bowls turn into popsicles

RECIPE GUIDE + a week of dinners

INTERVIEW Chef Chaya

Croatia + Recipes

GE 4

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Guest Editor: Each month a guest editor will visit the Fleishigs offices and provide signature tips, tricks and recipes throughout the issue. For our trends issue, trend-setting Instagram star, Chef Chaya (check out her interview pg. 74) shares her thoughts on sous vide cooking, Alenbi restaurant and her MUST-HAVE kitchen accessory.

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EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com

editor's letter S

haring the news that I was working on an all-new food publication was met with a lot of excitement. When I revealed the theme (meat-centric POV) and name (Fleishigs), the consistent shocked reactions were priceless. Read about acclaimed cookbook author Rochie Pinson’s reaction on page 68 (and get the secrets to the best classic challah recipe). The truth is, what drives the content in the pages before you goes above our need to simply share a collection of new recipes. New recipes, especially in today’s culture, are a dime a dozen. The purpose of this publication is to share solid, well-researched information, recipes, and stories that cannot be found anywhere else. There is no publication or even website completely dedicated to kosher meat and poultry, pareve sides, and desserts. This is the void we hope to fill. While we all know you can easily Google or ask Alexa to pull up a brisket, rib roast, or burger recipe, the recipes we share go through a vigorous testing process so that when you follow a Fleishigs recipe, you can do so with confidence and rely on our well-researched approach. The column "Butcher’s Cut," for example, delves into one of the most mysterious cuts of meat, the London Broil, authored by Chef Yosef Schwartz (HasidHipster, Miami). Amp up traditional schnitzel with Chef Isaac’s duck version of the classic in 'Modern Heimish' (page 60). Learn everything you

PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker

ever wanted to know (or didn’t think you needed to know) about knives in "Culinary School" (page 9) taught by the talented chef Sandy Leibowitz. As our premiere issue comes out in sync with KosherFest 2018, we compiled the latest food trends. One of the latest food trends, the charcuterie board, is shared with the Fleishigs list of musthaves. We taste tested the Impossible Burger, another big buzzed-about trend, against traditional burgers to see if it is really worth the hype. While we were thinking burgers, we created the best ever classic burger you will likely make in your home kitchen (the secret will surprise you). We are even taking our travel feature up a notch by sharing new, international recipes. The one I’m personally obsessed with is Croatia’s version of the babka, called Povitica, which creates a double-decker layer of swirls. Follow us on Instagram @fleishigsmag or sign up to our emails (www.fleishigs.com) to view the step-bystep video. I am beyond privileged to begin this new journey with fellow passionate cooks and those who cook for passionate eaters. I am always available to chat and talk food on @fleishigsmag Instagram page, where you can join me in daily food adventures. Bitayavon,

FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappaport EDITOR Chana Weiss MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt

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Comment & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com

Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishseddy.com for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.ﬁshseddy.com or Fishseddy the store at 889 Broadway at 19th street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

Shifra

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cullinary school

Knife

Class Tools of the Trade Lesson 1: Basic Knives Lesson 2: Advanced Knives Lesson 3: Knife Cuts BY CHEF SANDY LEIBOWITZ

Sandy Leibowitz, creator of plantainsandchallah.com is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. While still in high school, she would occupy her weekends doing prep work at The Russian Tea Room where she spent hours slicing and dicing mounds of onions. She has worked as a professional cook for 10+ years at many prestigious restaurants including Jean Georgesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Spice Market and Levana. Sandy inspires cooks daily on Instagram @plantainsandchallah. NOVEMBER 2018

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CULLINARY SCHOOL Lesson 2:

Lesson 1:

Basic Knives  You DO NOT need a knife block. Rather, choose knives that work for you and how YOU cook. Don’t let the manufacturer decide that for you. CHEF'S KNIFE This must-have is the most versatile knife. They are generally anywhere from 8 to12 inches in length. You can do heavier duty work such as using the heel to cut through chicken joints (not recommended with some lighter weight Chef’s knives), filleting fish, as well as trimming, slicing and chopping any vegetables or fruit; and then doing fine detailed work such as brunoise and chiffonade. (see page 12)

Current Obsessions:

PARING KNIFE A paring knife is a smaller knife; usually about 3¼ to 3½ inches long. It is another basic in the kitchen because it gives you more control of those

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smaller, finer tasks. Think more precision. Examples would be trimming most vegetables in your hand, peeling artichokes, scoring and coring tomatoes, cutting small fruits, hulling strawberries, segmenting citrus, and even mincing shallots. SERRATED KNIFE/ OFFSET SERRATED KNIFE A serrated knife has sharp ridges or “teeth” that help get through harder items such as crusty bread or pineapple skin. I also use my offset serrated knife when breaking down fruit like watermelon. It also works great to seamlessly cut through squishy tomatoes! Serrated knives are not usually sharpened, but they maintain their sharpness as long as they are well taken care of. It’s important to mention that it is helpful to also get a serrated paring knife if possible.

Advanced Knives UTILITY OR PETTY KNIVES A utility or petty knife is essentially a smaller Chef’s knife - around 5 to 7 inches long. Generally, the blade is thinner and lighter (sometimes bendable) so they are useful for smaller items like lemons, tomatoes and shallots. SLICERS Slicers are long knives (approximately 15-18 inches long) that can have a pointed or rounded edge. They are used for anything from slicing cooked meat and poultry, (think Thanksgiving turkey!) to smoked salmon or gravlax. They can either be rigid or flexible depending on what it will be used for. Sometimes they will have a “granton edge,” which are indents on the blade that prevent food from sticking or tearing. These are typically used in one fluid motion. Due to its versatility, this is the fourth knife (after Chef’s, paring, and serrated) that I recommend be purchased.

Global G-2 Classic 8” Chef’s Knife

Cutco 9¾” Serrated Bread Knife

Victorinox 3.9” Paring Knife

 Our favorite

 A complete game

 Victorinox is our

lightweight chef’s knife. The blade made of high-tech molybdenumvanadium stainless steel. This durable, sleek knife needs to be hand washed and wiped well to prevent rusting. $99.95 www.amazon.com

changer. This knife glides effortlessly through challah, baguettes and sourdough bread. Beyond bread, we use the knife to slice cakes, bagels, shred cabbage and slice tomatoes. $113 www.cutco.com

favorite affordable brand of knives. Their paring knife is the tool we always reach for to peel apples, potatoes, and mangoes, as well as dicing small onions and shallots. $7.50 www.swissarmy.com

NOVEMBER 2018

BONING KNIFE A boning knife is used to debone raw meats. It has a more narrow blade and a pointy tip to help navigate around the bone and get underneath silver skin and through gristle. It is worth investing in this knife if you want to save some money at your butcher and break down some pieces yourself, or practice trimming pieces. FILLETING KNIFE A fillet knife is specifically made for filleting fish. They are long and flexible to help you get as close to the fish’s delicate bones without removing too much flesh and can yield more fish! These knives are a lot of fun to use, but they do take some practice. CLEAVER A cleaver is a heavy, rectangular knife whose weight helps with getting through hard bones of meat, poultry, and fish. This kind of knife takes some getting used to, but can be helpful if you work with a lot of meat or want to learn.

GE Shun 8" Premiere Chef's Knife  Chef Chaya's Favorite Knife

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CULLINARY SCHOOL

Lesson 3: Knife Cuts, Ruler not Required  In culinary school, our chefs used to come around with rulers in skills class to make sure that our sizes were correct. The good news is that no one will be checking your cuts with a ruler, but it is important to have them look as uniform as possible so they cook evenly (and of course, look stunning... we do first eat with our eyes, after all.) Other "old-school," classic cuts that I did not include below are tourne (which looks like a little football), fluting (which is usually done on a mushroom cap and has wavy grooves), lozenge (which looks diamondshaped), and paysanne (which looks like a square).

JULIENNE

BATONNET Meaning “little sticks” in French, they are exactly that. The exact measurements are ¼ x ¼ x 2 to 2 ¼ inch.

These look like rectangles and are similar to matchsticks. If used on potatoes, they are referred to as "allumettes." The exact measurements are ⅛ x ⅛ x 1 to 2 inches.

HOW-TO (Basis for most cuts) You want to start by trimming your item so you end up with a rectangle. Trim the sides so they are straight (all excess can be used for stock or creatively in your next dish). Next, you make “planks” by slicing lengthwise, using the approximate measurements according to your desired finished product. This part is important because if this “plank” cut is not even, your finished product won't be uniform. Then, stack 1-2 at a time and make long cuts according to the measurements pictured below. The item should be perpendicular to your body, and the knife parallel to the item.

LARGE DICE A large dice looks like a cube almost the size of your thumb. The exact measurements are ¾ x ¾ x ¾ inch.

HOW-TO (Basis for most dice) Here, you follow the same steps for the julienne cut and then simply turn the item parallel to you and make a cut – to the approximate measurements given – crosswise to create a fine dice. Follow this same guide for larger dices, just taking into consideration the measurements when you cut.

Fleishigs

NOVEMBER 2018

A WORD ABOUT SHARPENING  Sharpening your knives is an important part of maintenance. I recommend learning how to sharpen it yourself with a whetstone. There are several reputable websites that show technique, and it is totally worth the learning process. Whetstones are not very expensive, and you can practice on less expensive knives until you get the hang of it. Electric sharpeners can sometimes over-sharpen the blade, but if you must use one for your knife, make sure it comes highly recommended and you follow the instructions on how to use it properly to preserve the integrity of your knife’s blade.

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FINE JULIENNE These look like long, fine strands of hair. The exact measurements are 1/16 x 1/16 x 1 x 2 inches.

Put Your Skills Into Practice! “Poke” pronounced “Poh-Keh” is a popular Hawaiian dish made of raw fish (usually tuna or salmon). Poke is usually mixed with a dressing of soy sauce, sesame oil, maui onions, and other toppings to create a savory and healthy appetizer or main dish. It has become increasingly more popular, especially for those who like sushi, and the varieties are endless. Here is a refreshing one with mango and avocado. It utilizes the cuts talked about and I encourage you to give it a try! Tuna is the star of the dish, so make sure to use the freshest sashimi-grade fish possible, preferably wild caught. It should have little to no odor, be bright in color, with very little sinew (fibrous tissue) running through the fish. AHI TUNA POKE BOWL WITH MANGO Serves 1

MEDIUM DICE

4-6 ounces ahi tuna, diced against the grain in medium dice

A medium dice looks like a little cube, a little larger than the small dice. The exact measurements are ½ x ½ x ½ inch.

SMALL DICE A small dice looks like a little cube (it starts out as a batonnet). The exact measurements are ¼ x ¼ x ¼ inch.

BRUNOISE A brunoise is a fine dice. It looks like a tiny little cube (it starts out as a julienne).The exact measurements are ⅛ x ⅛ x ⅛ inch.

Dressing: 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil ½ tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon ginger, minced 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon cayenne 1 scallion, thinly sliced For serving: ½ cup sushi rice ¼ cup mango, small dice ¼ avocado, small dice ¼ cup European cucumber, brunoise 1 small carrot, julienne 1 tablespoon white or black sesame seeds, for garnish Radish sprouts, for garnish Combine dressing ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Add tuna, toss to coat. Let sit for 10-15 minutes, or up to 2 hours. To serve, place warm (but not hot) rice on the bottom of the bowl, and top with mango, avocado, cucumber, carrot, and tuna. Garnish with sesame seeds and radish sprouts. NOVEMBER 2018

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butcher's cut

STOP BUTCHERING

THE

BROIL

Chef Yos Schwartz of Hassid+Hipster breaks down the mystery behind London Broil, so you can shop and cook London Broil with chef-level confidence. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

London Broil

CLASSIC LONDON BROIL

MINUTE LONDON BROIL

SHOULDER LONDON BROIL

is an anomaly in that it refers to a method of cooking, rather than a specific cut of meat. Like its name indicates, it is a cut of meat (usually from the shoulder or chuck section) that is best cooked broiled; quickly on high heat. But because all London Broils aren’t created equal (unlike a ribeye or hanger steak), a recipe calling for London Broil isn’t specific enough to yield consistent, successful results. To achieve success, it is crucial to know WHICH type of London Broil you are dealing with because where the London Broil comes from determines the ideal way to cook it.

NOVEMBER 2018

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Shoulder London Broil

Cook London Broil Like a Pro Caramelized Onion Jam Minute London Broil

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NOVEMBER 2018

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3 COMMON LONDON BROIL VARIETIES:

 Traditionally speaking, a London Broil is a top round roast,

CLASSIC LONDON BROIL

flank, or skirt steak.

•

However, in today’s world of kosher butchery, it can

•

vary. We are focusing on

•

the three most common varieties. They are cut from different parts

•

of the steer and thus benefit from different cooking approaches.

•

Lean muscle cut from the shoulder blade roast, a great option for those who prefer a lean steak Economical option for serving steak to a crowd or large family Benefits from a liquid marinade with acidic ingredients, such as wine left overnight to break down meat and add extra flavor Balance out the acid, with a savory ingredient like soy sauce or beer, and a drizzle of honey, agave nectar, or sugar for a touch of sweetness Piercing the meat by creating a diamond-shape crisscross is chef’s secret to tender, flavorful results Best on a grill at 8 minutes per side or under a very hot broiler

SHOULDER LONDON BROIL • • •

Classic London Broil

•

Very lean and clean cut without a lot of sinew or fat, looks great when sliced Best for sous vide cooking, especially if it is thicker than 2 inches The thickest, most uniform and attractive version of London Broil Best served with a savory dipping sauce like onion marmalade or red wine barbecue sauce Great for salads, sliced ultra thin for sandwiches or wraps (slice when cold)

MINUTE LONDON BROIL • •

Chili Lime Mango

• • •

A.K.A. Flatiron steak Cut from the shoulder from a popular roast known as Minute Roast This is a thin (1 inch thick), long and wide strip of meat Best cooked seared in a heavy pan such as a cast iron, with a simple rub and oil. Extremely tender and most popular for those who like well-marbled meat

recipes NOVEMBER 2018

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BUTCHER'S CUT

recipes SHOULDER LONDON BROIL SOUS VIDE SHOULDER LONDON BROIL Serves: 4 Freezer safe ziploc bags are recommended for sous vide cooking. To seal airtight, slowly place the mostly sealed bag into hot water. As you place the bag into water, the air will start leaving the bag and allow you to seal airtight. 1 (2-pound) shoulder London Broil 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 teaspoons sea salt, divided 1 teaspoon black pepper, divided

CLASSIC LONDON BROIL

GARLIC-HERB RUBBED LONDON BROIL Serves: 4

TEQUILA SUNRISE CLASSIC LONDON BROIL Serves: 4

Pure savoriness and lick-your-plateclean flavors. Ever wondered what umami (the 5th flavor profile) tastes like? Try this recipe. Feel free to use light or extra virgin olive oil. 6 cloves garlic, minced 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed and finely chopped 3 sprigs sage, finely chopped ⅓ cup olive oil 2 pinches of salt 2 pinches of pepper 1 (2-pound) minute London Broil Mix garlic, herbs, spices, and oil together in a medium bowl. Rub all over the minute London Broil and set aside for fifteen minutes. You can also marinate or prep in advance by placing all the ingredients into a zip-lock bag and refrigerating up to 36 hours. Remove steak from fridge and allow to come to room temperature. Heat a heavy-bottomed pan on high heat. Place steak in hot pan and cook for 2-5 minutes per side. (2 to 3 minutes per side for rare, 4 to 5 for mediumwell). Allow meat to rest for ten minutes. Slice and serve.

TIPS

Clip your sous vide machine into a large pot filled with water. Heat your sous vide to 135°F for a 16 hour cook time. Place London Broil in sous vide safe bag with 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Slowly place bag into prepared pot of water. After 16 hours, remove from sous vide, pat dry meat and heat a pan on very high heat or preheat broiler to high. Coat steak with remaining oil, salt and pepper. Sear or broil for 2 to 3 minutes per side until an even crust forms.

MINUTE LONDON BROIL

USE FRESH OR FROZEN mango and puree in blender or food processor. Alternatively, you can find pureed mango in the baby food section of your local supermarket.

Fleishigs

NOVEMBER 2018

The longer you marinate the London Broil, the better the flavor and more tender the meat. Save this marinade recipe for fish, chicken, or tofu...it's a real winner.

2 tablespoons lime juice ⅓ cup low sodium soy sauce 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce ½ cup pureed mango 2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger ¼ cup maple syrup 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup (or to taste) tequila 1 (2-pound) classic London Broil

Combine all the ingredients together in a large ziplock bag. Marinate 2 to 36 hours. Heat grill on medium-high heat or broiler to high. Cook for 8 minutes per side. Allow meat to rest for ten minutes before slicing. ONION MARMALADE 3 WAYS Basic recipe: Heat saucepan over medium heat. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and add 2 large sliced onions, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, and a pinch of black pepper. Sauté until onions start to brown. Lower heat to medium-low and cook covered for 30 minutes. Add flavor options of choice (see below), and cook uncovered on medium heat for an additional ten minutes. Cool and store covered in fridge until ready to use. Serve at any temperature. Freezes well. Wine version: ⅓ cup favorite wine + 3 sprigs thyme Chipotle version: 1 chili in adobo sauce with 1 tablespoon of sauce + 1 tablespoon brown sugar Balsamic version: ¼ cup balsamic vinegar w w w.f leishigs.com

CHILI LIME MANGO A popular Mexican street food is gaining popularity. The combo of spicy chili, acidic lime, sweet mango, and a sprinkle of sea salt is a winning combo. Mix 1 tablespoon ground chili powder, Â˝ teaspoon cayenne pepper, zest of one lime, and Â˝ teaspoon sea salt. Peel and slice 2 mangos into wedges. Squeeze juice of one lime over mango, top with chili-lime seasoning. Serve.

BUTCHER'S CUT: LEFTOVERS

STEAK SALAD: ISRAELI STYLE SALAD BASE: Lay a bunch of greens on a platter. Combine the juice of one lemon, 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses (optional) and ¼ cup olive oil. Mix desired amount of dressing with the greens. Start off with a few tablespoons and add as necessary. TOP WITH: -1 cup of artichoke hearts -½ cup chickpeas -1 small sliced red onion, mixed with 1 tablespoon sumac -Pomegranate seeds -Sliced London Broil

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NOVEMBER 2018

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cookbook review

THE SOUL OF ISRAELI FOOD. ONE RECIPE AT A TIME.

Michael Solomonovâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Steven Cookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Israeli Soul: Easy, Essential, Delicious is a follow-up book to the James Beard Award winning Zahav, and it literally transports you to the land of Israel. In Brief: The 384-page book shares the soul of Israeli cuisine through recipes, step-by-step instructions, authentic photos, and stories focused on the history and current standing of Israeli food. Chapters are divided by topic, including falafel, shawarma, soups and stews, Ashkenazi food, bourekas, hummus, and more. Each chapter delves into a specific specialty food, providing a rich understanding of the classic makeup of that dish and offering various ways to make it. The bourekas chapter, for example, provides step-bystep instruction to making the bourekas dough plus six various filling ideas, all the while offering pictures and stories of authentic Israeli bourekas and the people who make them. This is a book full of life. Highlights: If you have ever visited Israel, this book evokes considerable nostalgia. If you have yet to visit, this book may encourage you to take the trip, if not physically, then by way of the real-deal Israeli recipes that Israeli Soul offers. The book showcases how an entire culture (in this case Israeli lifestyle) can be portrayed through food. The authentic photos of Tel Aviv beaches, Shuk HaCarmel, pita stands, and shawarma joints truly capture the spirit of Israel in an inspiring way. Specifics: The photo style further enhances the theme of the book by providing a soulful, authentic vibe. They aren't over-styled or over-propped. The lifestyle photos are real-deal and capture the mood of Israeli culture. The book is kosher (rare for a mainstream cookbook), and will make a great addition to any cookbook collection.

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NOVEMBER 2018

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YEMENITE-STYLE VEAL OSSO BUCO WITH YELLOW RICE Serves 4

There’s no substitute for the lip-smacking qualities that veal brings to the table.

Calf’s foot was the original cheap cut used to flavor Yemenite soup. In these more prosperous times, chicken and beef have largely taken over the Yemenite soup game. But there’s no substitute for the lip-smacking qualities that veal brings to the table. Here, we braise veal shanks with hawaij to the point of fall-apart tenderness and serve it with yellow rice flavored with more hawaij. This is a great stand-in for the classic Italian combination of osso buco and Risotto Milanese at your next dinner party. 4 veal shanks 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons Hawaij Spice Blend (recipe follows) 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 onion, chopped 1 head of garlic cloves, chopped 3 carrots, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered 6 cups chicken stock Yellow rice, for serving (recipe follows)

transfer to the oven. Braise until the veal is fork-tender, about 3 hours. Serve with yellow rice. Hawaij Spice Blend Makes ½ cup Combine ¼ cup ground turmeric, 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper, and 2 tablespoons ground cumin in a small bowl and mix well. Store in a covered jar. Yellow Rice Makes 6 cups

2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups jasmine rice 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon Hawaij Spice Blend 4 cups water

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a medium skillet, then add rice, salt, and hawaij, and toast for a few minutes, or until fragrant. Transfer the mixture to a baking dish (or a deep saucepan with a lid) and add water. Cover tightly with foil. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the oven and let sit, covered, for at least 10 minutes; the texture will improve the longer it rests. Uncover, fluff with a fork, and serve.

Rub the veal shanks with 2 tablespoons of the salt and the hawaij. Cover and refrigerate for 48 hours. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Heat the oil in a deep ovenproof pot (big enough to hold all the shanks) over medium-high heat. Sear veal shanks on all sides and transfer to a plate. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onion and garlic. Cook until onion is soft, about 5 minutes, then add remaining 1 teaspoon salt and carrots. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or just until the carrots begin to soften. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds. Add potatoes and veal shanks to the pot. Pour in chicken stock. Cover and

YEMENITE-STYLE VEAL OSSO BUCO WITH YELLOW RICE is rendered from ISRAELI SOUL © 2018 by Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook. Photography © 2018 by Michael Persico. Reproduced by permission of Rux Martin Books/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved. NOVEMBER 2018

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restaurant chronicles

ALENBI

THE ART OF FINE DINING Get an inside look at the immense prep and little-known side of running a fine dining establishment. BY SHIFRA KLEIN

here are times I wish I had opened a steakhouse,” confesses Judah Schlass, owner of Alenbi Restaurant, a Brooklyn-based fine dining restaurant. “People assume that the restaurant business is so glamorous and instantly profitable. It isn’t.” There is a complex, 24-hour work process to running an authentic fine dining establishment like Alenbi, where executive chef Elior Balbul has created a modern, fresh take on Israeli food. At Alenbi, classics like Jerusalem-mixed grill and falafel are reimagined and look nothing like the casual street food dishes one would find visiting Israel. One of the main goals of Alenbi is to offer a new dining experience inspired by the familiar flavors and ingredients of Israel. This was a passion project of Judah Schlass that took a few years to become operational. There is a precision and professionalism at Alenbi that is truly remarkable: great service and consistent harmonious food that is full of ingenuity, impressive to behold. It takes rigorous planning and organizing to get it right every time. We spent a day at Alenbi to gain an inside look into what happens in preparation for the restaurant's opening.

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NOVEMBER 2018

11pm Each day really starts the night before, once the restaurant finishes service at around 11pm. This is when all the chefs clean their stations, take note of what food was left, and make a list of what needs to be done the next day. Once the kitchen and waitstaff leave, a crew comes in to clean the restaurant from top to bottom, usually working from midnight to early morning. 8am The restaurant staff start trickling in to begin prep for 5pm service. The mashgiach (certified by the OK), and sous chef start by checking and breaking down ingredients, as deliveries start coming in for the day. The pastry chef also starts the day bright and early. On any given morning, there are about three active stations prepping and cooking for the day ahead. Each item on the menu has various elements that come together seamlessly, but need attentive, organized prep to make it onto the plate. 10am Executive Chef Elior Balbul arrives to deal with vendors, inventory, and implementation of a prep list for the day. He also prepares all the sauces and components for many of the dishes and works on creating new options. Every two weeks, new, seasonal dishes are added to the menu. This keeps things

Fine dining restaurants are defined by the high quality of food and service they provide. Each ingredient matters, even the herb garnish (in this case the cilantro) is picture perfect.

fresh and offers diners a taste of seasonal produce that isn’t available year-round. A sunchoke soup with homemade gnocchi is currently in the works and should be on the November menu. From 10am until service at 5pm, Chef Elior oversees and takes part in all the prep taking place throughout the kitchen. 11am The hot and cold stations are deep in preparations for the service ahead. Meticulous chopping, slicing, dicing, and cooking is underway. Fresh greenery is placed in pots of cold water to maintain freshness (great tip), chickpeas are tossed with pickled onion, and leeks are poached on the stove top. (read more on page 27) w w w.f leishigs.com

TIPS Elior (pictured with owner Judah Schlass) brings his vast kitchen experience (he was executive chef of Blue Sky restaurant under famed chef Meir Adoni) and Israeli attitude (an army veteran) to the Alenbi kitchen. He is a thoughtful, organized chef with a clear vision and respect for the people who work for him and the food he prepares. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When you do something with respect and love, it comes back to reward you.â&#x20AC;?

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ALENBI

“I can teach someone how to be a great cook, but I can’t teach someone how to be a better person.” -Chef Elior's kitchen philosophy

Kitchen Divided: The Alenbi kitchen is divided into various stations. The hot and cold stations are upstairs and are open to the diners to view and watch. The general prep stations, where the mashgiach checks the produce and the ingredients are broken down, along with the pastry station, are downstairs. The cold station is run by sous chef Yosef. His station faces the diners; so, in addition to preparing and plating cold dishes like the ceviche and the finishing elements to many of the dishes on the menu, Yosef interacts with diners sitting at the bar. When he arrived at Alenbi, he had minimal restaurant experience, but that didn’t stop Chef Elior from hiring him. “I can teach someone how to be a great cook, but I can’t teach someone how to be a better person,” shares the chef, who believes that the potential in a good person outweighs experience, which could come with a negative attitude into the kitchen. Watching Yosef confidently mix bright pink pickled onions with freshly cooked chickpeas and chopped herbs for a side salad, his familiarity with and love of his job is obvious. In the Alenbi kitchen, there is a full circle of responsibility for each

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chef. The cook who makes and preps the dish is also responsible for plating the dish. This is one of the secrets to consistency. Towards the back of the kitchen, sous chef Matt efficiently runs the hot station (where grilled dishes, fried food, and hot sauces are all prepped and cooked) while simultaneously preparing the family meal. Around 4pm, right before service, the staff congregate to eat a family-style meal prepared by one of the staff members to fuel them for the night ahead. As Matt stirs paprika, cumin, sumac, lemon juice, and oil to coat some chicken he plans to grill, he shares that Elior doesn’t like sweet dishes or sesame oil and general manager Sasha doesn't like rice. The goal is to make something that everyone will enjoy. As Matt prepares the family meal, all his prep work has already been done, including the elements of his personal favorite dish, the Israeli Souvlaki, a take on Jerusalem mixed grill. Chef Elior's version involves pulled lamb, charred cabbage, and toasted pine nuts, topped with signature Alenbi condiments and fresh herbs. It is delicious.

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(continued from page 24)

Matt prepping the family meal

Sous chef Yosef

In the Alenbi kitchen there is a full circle of responsibility for each chef. The cook who makes and preps the dish is also responsible for plating the dish. This is one of the secrets to consistency.

1pm There is never a wasted moment in the kitchen and everyone has clear tasks at all times. By 1pm, the kitchen is full of action and two dishwashers (considered â&#x20AC;&#x153;the heart of the kitchenâ&#x20AC;? by Chef Elior) are assisting in whatever they can. Amongst all the hustle and bustle, restaurant manager Sasha enters the kitchen to review that day's menu with the chef. As Chef Elior turns charred, fermented cippolini onions into the dust used to garnish the steak tartare, he gives notes and updates on the offerings so Sasha can print the menu of that day. A fresh menu is printed each day, to present any changes from the night before and showcase any new seasonal menu items. Sasha runs the day-to-day operations of Alenbi kitchen. From bringing the linens to the dry cleaners, setting the tables, taking reservations, and organizing parties, Sasha brings positivity and efficiency in all she does. The goal is to give customers the best time. She arrives around 11am each day and will stay until midnight or beyond, if necessary. 4pm The waitstaff arrive and hear about the specials of the day and review anything important, from allergies to issues that happened the night before. Throughout the day, owner Judah Schlass works on the logistics of the restaurant and brings his vast business and food knowledge to create the Alenbi experience. He has big plans for the future of kosher dining and considers Alenbi a launching platform for the amazing food offerings to come. 4:30pm The staff settle down to enjoy Mattâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spur of the moment family dinner of grilled chicken, sweet potatoes, and a really good looking fresh salad. Once the staff enjoy the meal prepared by Matt and review the menu, specials, and any other details of the day, everyone returns to their respective stations ready for a new day of service.

NOVEMBER 2018

Fleishigs

ALENBI EXCLUSIVE RECIPE:

TIPS

While the pita pocket is grilled, the chef roasts simple vegetables in Alenbi's signature tabun-style oven. The fire-roasted tomatoes, onions, and jalapeños are the perfect pairing to the arayes. The fine dining touch is evident in the attention to every detail and high quality of every ingredient served.

No grill?

Roast the arayes in a 450°F oven for 15-20 minutes.

ARAYES Serves: 4 Arayes are Lebanese stuffed pita burgers that have exploded in popularity in Israel in recent years. Ground meat (in this case, lamb) is stuffed into a pita and grilled. Chef Elior shares his secrets to one of Alenbi's most popular appetizers. 1. Baking soda. Add a pinch to the ground lamb mixture. This is the secret to tender results. 2. Fill generously. Make sure to fill the pita well with the ground lamb mixture. You want to make sure you taste lamb in every bite. 3. Fat. Use a mixture of 65% lamb and 35% fat. The fat ensures that the meat doesn’t dry out in the grilling process. 28

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1 pound ground lamb 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 pitas, sliced in half Oil, for brushing pita Tahini and matbucha, for serving Cilantro, for garnish

Combine lamb, salt, pepper, and baking soda. Generously fill pita with ground lamb mixture. Brush some of the oil over the pita and grill for three minutes per side, for a total of 9 minutes (the open side should be grilled as well). Cut each pita half into three wedges. Serve with roasted vegetables, tahini, and matbucha. Top with cilantro.

ROASTED VEGETABLES, ALENBI STYLE Serves: 4 Alenbi kitchen roasts vegetables in their scorching hot wood fired oven, so we adapted the method by cranking our oven to 500 degrees to achieve the perfect charred (not burnt) vegetables.

¼ cup olive oil 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges 4 jalapenos 1 red onion, cut into wedges 2 teaspoons sea salt

Preheat oven to 500°F. Coat tomatoes, onions and jalapenos with olive oil and top with a generous pinch of salt. Roast for ten to fifteen minutes, until slightly charred. Serve immediately with warm pita, tahini, and arayes.

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GE CHEF CHAYA'S SCOOP ON ALENBI

Alenbi Restaurant's name is inspired by iconic Rechov Allenby in Tel Aviv.

Favorite Spot: I love sitting at the bar. It is like orchestra seats - literally the best seats in the house. You get food + a live show. #WinWin Standout Feature: Alenbi has amazing ambiance, and a really great vibe. I felt as if I was transported to a mini vacation for the evening . Favorite Dish: The drunk liver was outrageous. It is a stunning plate of chicken liver mousse, silan syrup, crispy onions, pistachios and crunchy bites of Jerusalem bagel.

top 5

KOSHER GURU’S TOP 5 Each month, Kosher Guru, a travel and restaurant pro, will share his ‘TOP 5’ most memorable restaurant dishes.

1 BY GABRIEL BOXER

Reserve Cut is the only kosher restaurant to serve A5 Grade Wagyu Beef, butchered from Japanese cattle that yields meat with one-of-a-kind velvety texture and magnificent marbling. After cooking, the beef is not only very tender, but has a characteristically sweet, mild flavor. Reserve Cut takes this cut of meat to the next level by dry aging it for 45 days, creating a dining experience I will never forget. www.reservecut.com 40 Broad St, New York, NY (212) 747-0300

BUN BURGER KITCHEN’S BREAKFAST BURGER  Bun Burger is an awesome joint with great staff, UhMazing food, and with a spot on fresh burger recipe! (See page 56 for the Fleishigs secret to the best burger EVER!). The Breakfast Burger has me drooling just reading about it and the taste lived up to the hype. Crispy hash browns, facon, a fried egg, all nestled between two crispy waffles drizzled with a jalapeño maple glaze. I mean, C’MON! This is the type of dish most of us will NOT be making at home, making it a definite must-try in my book. www.bunburgerkitchen.com 1091 River Avenue, Lakewood, NJ (732) 392-6266 RESERVE CUT’S 40-OUNCE A5 KURO WAGYU STEAK  I recently experienced a 40 oz. A5 Kuro Wagyu Steak, a.k.a. the Tomahawk for two (although I’m not really sure I shared it with anyone!).

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MEXIKOSHER’S FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH

 The brainchild of Top Chef alum, Chef Katsuji Tanabe, MexiKosher offers authentic, dyamic Mexican fare. The array of tacos is definitely a must-try. As much as I enjoy a great taco, my favorite dish at MexiKosher is the fried chicken sandwich! The juicy, tender white meat chicken is battered in cornflakes and rice crispies for an added crunch, placed in a hamburger bun, topped with their homemade pickled onions, and drizzled with sweet chili sauce. No wonder it’s one of their best sellers! www.mexikoshernyc.com 100 W 83rd Street, NY, NY (212) 580-6200

BORU BORU’S OXTAIL FRIED RICE

 I’m always pumped to try a new spot, and the newest ramen joint, Boru Boru, didn’t disappoint. We ordered the Blistered Shishito Peppers, Momo D’Veau Dumplings, Crispy Chicken Kara-Age, and Special Bao Buns from the appetizer section and enjoyed them all while the kitchen prepped our ramen and fried rice bowls. The Pastrami Ramen was tasty, but my absolute favorite, standout dish of the evening was the Oxtail Fried Rice. It was legit insane...like fried rice on steroids. Tender oxtail is tossed into the rice with chives and eggs and a large roasted bone marrow is placed in the center of this umami bowl of goodness… yum! www.boruborunyc.com 774 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY (917) 261-2472 BURGERS+Q’S MARROW BURGER

 Burgers+Q is one of my all-time favorite places to get a good burger. You can really feel the passion of proprietor and chef Shloimy Fishman in everything, from reading his creative menu to watching him interact with customers. My favorite go-to burger is the Marrow Burger, which is also the most popular burger on the menu. The marrow is extracted from the bone and blended with the beef for a brilliant touch that creates a burger oozing with flavorful deliciousness. Want to get into the Shabbos mode? Make sure to go on a Thursday night to enjoy some of his good ol’ heimishe foods. www.burgersandq.com 4726 New Utrecht Avenue Brooklyn, NY (718) 552-2084 FOLLOW THE KOSHER GURU on Instagram & Facebook @kosherguru, on Twitter @thekosherguru, or subscribe to his YouTube channel and on his blog at www.thekosherguru.com. Tune in to “The Nosh” (a kosher foodie and restaurant radio show on 620AM in the NYC area) with Kosher Guru airing every Thursday evenings at 9:30pm. w w w.f leishigs.com

seasonal feature

THE

RENDS Kosherfest compares to Fashion Week in celebrating the latest and greatest of the season. n the case of Kosherfest, it is food (kosher food, to be more specific), not clothing, that is hyped, talked about, and presented. Thousands of kosher influencers, companies, food personalities and business gurus convene (eat, yent, and party) in anticipation of the newest, trendiest food items; all the while embracing the classics (like matzo ball soup and yogurt) that never seem to go out of style. The group at Kosherfest may not be the most welldressed, but without a doubt are the most well-fed.

This time of year inspires our top 12 trends in the food world today. No matter the trends, though, we never forget the classics.

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Pitaya Bowls are the new acai î&#x192;&#x201D; Acai, a tropical berry from South America, has exploded in popularity and can be found in any health food store and smoothie shop that is worth a visit. Smoothie bowls are popular for good reason. There is something magical about eating a smoothie out of a bowl with toppings like almonds, coconuts, and chia seeds displayed over sweet goodness. Pitaya, most commonly known as dragon fruit, is the hottest smoothie bowl ingredient. Full of vitamins and minerals, the pureed fruit lends a oneof-a-kind pink. Emerging subtrend: Blue smoothie bowls made from blue majik spirulina, a proprietary form of dried blue-green algae, gives an eye-popping burst of blue color to smoothies and smoothie bowls.

1 The smoothie bowls are like eating spoonfuls of sorbet... they are THAT good. Just make sure to keep all ingredients frozen before blending to achieve the coldest, most sorbetlike texture.

2 They are a blast to decorate. You can top with anything you like. From berries, to granola, toasted nuts, candied nuts, and even a drizzle of room temperature almond (or peanut) butter.

3 Use this recipe to make popsicles. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right! These make awesome frozen treats that you can pop right out of the freezer anytime. Pitaya Bowl Recipe: Page 72

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Eat the Rainbow Roasted root vegetables are the must-have food accessory.

Fleishigs

î&#x192;&#x201D; Eating vibrant, brightly colored foods is not only appealing to the eye but really good for your health. Colorful carrots, beets, and even colorful smoothies hold a concentration of unique vitamins and minerals. We canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get enough of it in everything we are eating. From our hawaij roasted carrots (pg. 49) to roasted beet salad (pg. 44) and smoothie bowls, eating the rainbow has never been more fun.

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Number Cakes

TRENDS

î&#x192;&#x201D; The latest craze in the pastry world (for REALLY good reasons) is letter and number cakes made from sweet, flaky pastry or a really solid sugar cookie dough recipe. The pastry is rolled out thin (twice, in order to achieve a layered look) and formed into letters and numbers. The pastry is baked, cooled, and topped with elegantly piped pastry cream that is then topped with another layer of pastry, topped with more piped pastry cream, and decorated with an array of seasonal fruit and flowers. It is a real showstopper and amazing centerpiece for any event. It is also quite delicious, and makes a light, elegant dessert. Turn to page 70 for the recipe. Shout-out to Malky Hirsch (a.k.a. @kissthekoshercook) for making this gorgeous cake.

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4 TRENDS

Plant-Based

Alternatives

î&#x192;&#x201D; The vegan movement, dairy sensitivities, and the popularity of the Whole30 diet have all contributed to an increase in plant-based alternatives to animal-based products. Far gone are the days where soy milk was the only non-dairy alternatives. Almond, cashew, coconut, and oat milks are just some alternatives to animal milk. There are quite a few yogurt alternatives as well. So Delicious offers a coconut yogurt that is quite good and Daiya offers a solid non-dairy Greek yogurt. The growth of plant-based options is having a fiscal impact on dairy companies as cowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s milk sales have declined 5% and are projected to drop another 11% through 2020, according to Mintel. Beyond subbing dairy for plant-based variations, beef is also seeing some competition rise. The latest and hottest item is the Impossible Burger, famous for mimicking an all-beef burger down to flavor, texture, and color. We tried it and taste tested an Impossible Burger with dairy cheese and all-beef classic burger to see which reigns supreme. (opposite page)

By the numbers: Sales of plant-based food in the US went up by 8.1% during the past year, topping $3.1 billion, according to research carried out by Nielsen for the Plant Based Foods Association (PBFA) and the Good Food Institute.

See page 70 for vegan mac and cheese recipe.

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TRENDS

Impossible Burger:

IS IT WORTH THE HYPE?

 We taste tested the Impossible Burger at a local dairy restaurant. The Impossible Burger is currently ONLY available to food service. Beyond Meat is another faux burger option that is available to consumers in stores nationwide and is certified by OK Kosher.

If you are going to try the Impossible Burger or Beyond Meat's burger, we firmly believe you’ve got to do it with dairy cheese, because otherwise, unless you’re vegan, what’s the point? You may as well put non-dairy cheese on a real deal beef burger. This lab-created burger has been developed

to look, cook, and taste exactly like beef. In reality, when eaten side by side (or an hour after) a well-cooked, good quality beef burger, the beef burger is superior in taste and texture. The Impossible Burger has a wonderful beefy texture and great flavor, but tastes more like seasoned

sausages or a heavily breadcrumbed burger. When served hot in a toasted bun and with all-classic burger accoutrements, you do feel like you are biting into a standard, fast food style burger. It is the best vegan burger you will ever try and makes us excited about the future of plant based options.

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TRENDS

BEETS ARE IN î&#x192;&#x201D; Every few years, there is a roundup of recipes that presents humble vegetables in a new light. Whoever thought that kale would explode? Cauliflower? Well...boy did they, along with vegetables in general. We are entering a time period where vegetables are truly being celebrated. Our personal favorite at the moment? Beets. They come in various colors (eat the rainbow approved), can be cooked in many ways and are just really good for you. Our favorite method for cooking beets is oven roasting. Oven roast a bunch of beets and use in everything. They make a great side dish, salad, and pizza or sandwich topper. Beets are low in calories and have a little bit of almost every vitamin and mineral you need, like Vitamin C, iron, magnesium & potassium (to name a few). Eating beets can help lower blood pressure, improve brain health and athletic function, fight inflammation and help in digestive health.

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TRENDS

FLEISHIGS BEET SALAD Serves: 8

Beet salad can start from a basic combo of beets, scallions and lemon to a more dynamic and meallike platter on a bed of greens, topped with juicy, roasted chicken.

Turn to page

for more on roasting beets and the many ways to use them.

1 pound chicken breast, skin on 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 4 cups mixed greens 2 cups sliced, roasted beets ½ cup chopped scallions ½ cup pistachios 1 avocado, thinly sliced ¼ cup lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon dijon mustard 1 tablespoon honey ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 clove crushed garlic, optional Preheat oven to 450°F. Place chicken on baking tray and drizzle oil over chicken. Rub with salt and pepper, and roast until cooked through, 25 minutes. Spread mixed greens on a large platter. Top with beets, scallions, pistachios, and avocado. In a small container, mix lemon juice, olive oil, honey, dijon mustard, garlic, kosher salt, and black pepper. Drizzle over salad. Slice chicken and serve over salad. Serve immediately.

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TRENDS

HOW TO ROAST BEETS Preheat oven to 375Â°F. Drizzle 1 teaspoon of oil for per beet. Wrap each beet in aluminum foil, then place onto a sheet pan. Roast for 40-60 minutes, until beets are fork tender. Smaller beets cook more quickly than larger beets. When cool enough to handle, (with gloved hands or paper towel) peel the beets. The peel should slide right off. If not, they will need some more time in the oven. Store covered in fridge up to a week, until ready to use.

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WAYS TO USE ROASTED BEETS Salads: See pg. 39. Or...Use dressing on page 39 and mix 1 cup beets with 2 sliced grapefruit, 1 sliced avocado and 4 cups spring mix. Side Dish: Cut beets into wedges, drizzle oil, lemon and a bit of salt and cumin. Hummus: Blend beets into your favorite hummus recipe. Pesto: Puree with garlic, oil, and herbs. Sandwiches & Wraps: Adds a sweet, crunchy pop of flavor and texture.

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6 TRENDS

Thinking Beyond Rib Steak î&#x192;&#x201D; Butchers everywhere are creating signature cuts of meat to offer the kosher consumer unique options from the limited forequarter. Grow & Behold, for example, has a signature Denver Steak that is beefy, delicious, easy to cook, and definitely NOT a rib steak (plus substantially cheaper per pound). Gourmet Glatt recently added a Chuck London Broil to its meat lineup. The Delmonico is another cut of meat from the eye of the chuck) that has been growing in popularity as a beefy, juicy substitute for a rib steak.

Pictured here from top to bottom: Shoulder London Broil, Classic London Broil and Minute London Broil. Turn to pg 15 for more on cooking London Broil.

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TRENDS

Charcuterie The Fleishigs list of charcuterie must-haves: 42

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Something crunchy. Thin crackers, thinly sliced toasted baguettes, flavored crackers, and even crunchy veg (like radish) all work.

An element of mustard. Whole grain mustard, smooth dijon, classic yellow or honey mustard are all great options.

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TRENDS

Slice, spice, sweet, salty, and crunchy. Charcuterie is here to stay. î&#x192;&#x201D; Charcuterie, various forms of preserved meats and poultry, have been growing in the kosher markets.

Boards 3

Something sweet. Cherry preserves or sweet caramelized onion jam (pg. 18) pair wonderfully with all charcuterie but especially with fois gras and smoked duck.

Something briny and salty. Olives, pickles, capers, and pickled onions.

Something alcoholic. Whiskey on the rocks or cold beer are the perfect complement to the rich flavors of charcuterie.

Beyond classic salami, pastrami, and corned beef, companies like Jack's Gourmet, Pelleh Poultry, Grow & Behold, Meal Mart, Shor Habor, A&H, Aufschnitt Meat and Heritage Kosher have all expanded their charcuterie line, allowing the kosher consumer to enjoy a wide variety of preserved meats and poultry. From fois gras to lamb bacon and unique sausage flavors, you can create the ultimate party of Shabbat kiddush platters. There are no rules or specific recipes when it comes to serving up charcuterie. You can create a budget-friendly board with salami, sliced sausages, and pulled beef or go grand with fois gras and smoked duck. No matter the occasion, there is something about charcuterie that gets a solid festive vibe going. It's a great appetizer, party food, and Shabbat lunch option.

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TRENDS

Kitchen Equipment is Growing Up  As a new generation of knowledgable home cooks emerge, companies are creating high-tech cooking options for the everyday kitchen at affordable prices. Gadgets that were once reserved exclusively for top chef kitchens are now widely available for the home cook to enjoy. The sous vide machine (previously referred to as an immersion circulator), has been adapted for the home kitchen so it can easily be used and stored.

You can sous vide anything from meat to fennel and apricots to create a unique, spot-on texture. More intimidating kitchen tools, like the pressure cooker, have been simplified with modern updates. The Instant Pot, for example, meets the needs of a new generation of cooks.

BEEF BAR

WHY I LOVE MY SOUS VIDE: • Foolproof level of doneness • Great for plan-ahead meals • Easy for my fiance to prep for me (he's

enamored with the whole sous vide process!)

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MORE ON

• Meat that freezes well

Sous Vide Cooking & Gift Ideas in our Chanukah Issue. www.fleishigs.com

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TRENDS

Middle Eastern Food The Middle East is now the center of your table.

GRILLED CHICKEN SKEWERS See page

for recipe and story.

 Israeli food continues to rise in popularity, thanks to Israeli chefs like Michael Solomonov & Alon Shaya, who have brought Israeli cuisine to the forefront of American food culture. Michael Solomonov wrote a James Beard Award winning

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cookbook titled Zahav, celebrating the foods of Israel. In fact, Michael and his partner Steven Cook have just launched a new book titled Israeli Soul. For a sneak peek recipe and book review, turn to page 22. In the world of kosher,

more authentic Israeli restaurants have been opening with much accolades. Mama's Kitchen in Brooklyn, Vish in Manhattan, Charcoal Grill & Bar in Los Angeles, and Levy’s famous restaurant’s expansion into more fast food down

in Florida are all recent examples. Israeli food has also been getting a modern update at Alenbi (read more on page 24). Other Middle Eastern cuisines, like Croatian food (our recent travel spot, see pg. 62) is growing in popularity as well.

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TRENDS

Hawaij Move over pumpkin spice…. it’s time for everything Hawaij

SAVORY HAWAIJ Makes: ½ cup You can easily quadruple this recipe and store in a cool, dry place for extended use. Add to stews, fish, and even cholent for tons of incredible flavor. 3 tablespoons turmeric 3 tablespoons cumin 1 tablespoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon ground ginger Combine above ingredients. Store, covered, in cool, dry place. HAWAIJ FOR COFFEE Makes: ⅓ cup

BY SHIFRA KLEIN  In the world of Israeli cuisine, a unique Yemenite spice blend is making its way into the market. Similar to a curry, hawaij comes in many forms, most notably a savory turmeric-based blend and a cardamom based blend, traditionally used in coffee..

2 tablespoons ground ginger 2 tablespoons ground cardamom 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds Combine above ingredients. Store, covered, in cool, dry place.

10 WAYS TO USE HAWAIJ:

Savory blend:

Hawaij for Coffee:

1. Add to chicken soup. 2. Add to any and all roasted vegetables. 3. Use as a rub for roasted chicken or fish. 4. Add to stews.

1. Add to crumble in fruit crisps. 2. Mix into muffin, pancake or cake batter. 3. Sprinkle on baked apples. 4. Mix into whipped cream. 5. Toast with nuts.

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10 HAWAIJ ROASTED CARROTS Serves: 6

These carrots make a wonderful addition to any salad. We love making a double batch and saving some carrots for mid-week salads. (Use rainbow carrots for amped up presentation, but classic carrots are just as delicious.) 1 pound carrots, sliced in half lengthwise ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons savory hawaij 1 teaspoon kosher salt Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a short-rimmed baking tray with parchment paper. Combine carrots, oil, hawaij, and salt. Roast for 25 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

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TRENDS

NOVEMBER 2018

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Hawaij Braised Short Ribs

TRENDS

See page

for recipe

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Hawaij Chocolate Chip Cookies HAWAIJ CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES Makes: 48 cookies 2 sticks vegan butter 1 cup sugar 1 cup brown sugar 2 large eggs, room temperature 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2½ cups all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon hawaij for coffee blend ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 cups chopped semi- sweet chocolate Espresso salt, optional (see recipe on next page)

Beat butter and sugar until creamy, about 4 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat for 1 minute. Add vanilla and beat another minute. Combine flour, salt, hawaij, baking powder, and baking soda. Whisk into batter until just combined. Fold in chopped chocolate, using a spatula

or large spoon. Using a cookie scoop, scoop cookies onto baking tray. Place in fridge for 30 minutes to chill and set. Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove cookies from fridge and top with espresso salt (optional). Bake for 12 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on cooling racks.

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TRENDS

Espresso Salt This recipe was created at the photo shoot by our talented food stylist, Chaya Rappaport (@retrolillies). She recommended the espresso salt to balance the sweetness of the cookies and warm spices. What a brilliant addition to already amazing cookies! Makes: ¼ cup

Sub the short ribs for brisket, top of rib, or chuck roast. Israeli malt beer is actually non-alcoholic and a unique drink that tastes like a combo of coke and beer. If you can not find Israeli malt beer, sub for 6 ounces coke and 6 ounces beer. 5 pounds English cut short ribs ¼ cup savory hawaij 2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 onion, diced 6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 3 carrots, chopped ¼ cup tomato paste 12 ounces Israeli malt beer Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a large pot with vegetable oil. While oil is heating, coat the short ribs in flour, hawaij seasoning, and salt. In batches, so as not to 52

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overcrowd the pan, sear short ribs in hot pan for five minutes per side, until golden brown. Place seared short ribs in baking pan. Once you finish searing all the short ribs, add onions to pot and saute until translucent, five minutes. Add carrots and garlic and saute another two minutes. Add tomato paste and cook five minutes on low heat so tomato paste becomes slightly caramelized. Pour in malt beer and raise heat to high. Scrape down pan to remove all browned bits and make a smooth sauce, then simmer for five minutes. Pour over prepared short ribs, cover tightly, and cook covered for 3 hours. Serve hot.

TIPS

HAWAIJ BRAISED SHORT RIBS Serves: 6

BRAISED SHORT RIBS FREEZE REALLY WELL. Allow to cool completely before freezing.

1 tablespoon instant espresso 3 tablespoons maldon salt Combine and store covered in cool, dry place.

HAWAIJ COCONUT LATTE Serves: 2 2 cups prepared hot coffee ½ cup thick coconut milk 2 teaspoons hawaij for coffee blend 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Blend all ingredients until creamy. Add sweetener if you would like. Pour into mugs. Serve immediately.

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TRENDS

Time for seconds. Previous Trends 1. Still Going Strong

latbreads. Most meat restaurants offer some F version of a flatbread and they are fairly easy to make at home, especially with pre-baked flatbread or pizza crusts that are widely available.

11 3.

Fermented foods. Good for your gut but also great for adding that final special touch to dishes, fermented foods like kimchi and kombucha (a fermented tea drink) are continuing to grow. The worldwide market value for kombucha is projected to grow to a worth of up to 1.8 billion US dollars by 2020.

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International hot sauces. From sriracha to harissa to salsa and schug, hot sauces from around the world have grown in popularity and continue to stay relevant.

amen. In the past R year, two kosher ramen restaurants (Boru Boru in NYC and PhoMen in Crown Heights) have opened their doors, proving that the ramen trend is here to stay. Ramen, a Japanese brothbased noodle bowl, is a true comfort food that is full of unique flavors and textures. Not to be confused with pho, a Vietnamese noodle bowl that differs in flavor and ingredients. Pho is an anise-flavored beef bone broth served with rice noodles and a mix of thinly sliced rib steak and braised brisket. Ramen's bone broth base varies from chicken to beef to vegetables and is flavored with Japanese ingredients like miso and soy and is served with specialty ramen noodles, various proteins and a MUST TRY marinated egg.

Sushi and Poke Bowls. Lumped into the same category because a poke bowl is essentially sushi salad (sushi is Japanese and poke is native to nearby-ish Hawaii), we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to get enough. Turn to page 13 for a classic poke bowl recipe.

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Classics We Love

Trends come and go, but there are some classics that never go out of style. Our top 3:

THE BEST EVER CLASSIC BURGER Serves: 4 1½ pounds ground beef 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup vegetable oil, for searing Slices of tomato Wedges of lettuce Red onion slices Pickles Killer Sauce (recipe follows) Burger buns or lettuce Heat a cast iron pan on mediumhigh heat. While the pan is heating, form burgers by loosely shaping ground beef into desired shape and size (about ⅓ pound round, 1-inch thick patties). Season patties with salt and pepper. Pour oil in hot pan and place patties in pan to sear, making sure not to overcrowd pan. For a 9-inch pan, cook three burgers at a time. Cook on medium-high heat for six minutes. Flip and cook an additional 4 to 6 minutes. While burgers are cooking, toast burger buns to your liking. Spread some killer sauce over the toasted bun, top with lettuce, tomato and onion. Top with burger and a pickle and serve immediately. You can also serve the burger in the center of a lettuce leaf as a lettuce wrap. KILLER SAUCE Makes: 1 ½ cups

Burger (see this page for our best ever classic burger)

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Chocolate chip cookies (see page 50 for our hawaij chocolate chip cookies)

Challah (see page 70 for Rebbetzin Rochie’s classic challah)

1 cup mayonnaise ⅓ cup pickle relish 2 tablespoons mustard ⅓ cup ketchup 1 tablespoon cajun seasoning ¼ cup grated horseradish 1 teaspoon kosher salt Combine all ingredients. Store, covered, in the fridge until ready to use.

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TRENDS A number of factors were considered when contemplating what makes the best burger. After tasting more burgers than you can ever imagine, we concluded that keeping it basic is the way to keep a classic burger best. Topping burgers with fried eggs, potato chips, or bacon does add flavor, height and impact, but these additions take away from enjoying the purity and deliciousness of well-cooked beef. In fact, in some restaurants, we found that the burger toppings were a distraction from a not-so-great burger.

When Life Throws You a Burger Eat It

IT ALL STARTS WITH THE PATTY & ENDS WITH THE PAN The ideal burger tastes beefy, has a well-developed crust on the outside and juicy, unctuous meat on the inside. The best way to achieve this level of perfection is by focusing on two things; the pan the burger is cooked in and the ground beef used to form the burger. THE PAN Stay far away from a grill pan or a grill in general. Grill pans and grills DO NOT cook burgers evenly because the entire surface of the burger isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t being cooked at once. Burgers also tend to stick much more easily and are harder to flip in a grill or grill pan. A cast iron pan is the ideal pan to use. It conducts heat perfectly and helps develop the ideal crust on a burger. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a cast iron pan, use a thick, heavy, trusted frying pan and make sure to let the burger cook and develop its signature crust by not moving it around too much. THE GROUND BEEF BLEND To maintain a true beefy flavor, great texture, and juicier result, we found that ordering coarse ground meat makes all the difference. 80% beef chuck, 20% fat, coarse grind (runs once through the grinder). Email shifra@fleishigs.com with your results.

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wine

Be a Rule-Breaker:

Unexpected Wine Choices are Trending By Gabriel Geller

1 White wines can complement a fleishig meal The Pacifica Riesling 2017 would be perfect to accentuate the flavors and texture of a stuffed veal pocket, for example, or even the Yemenite veal osso bucco on pg. 23. A couple years ago, the white wine everyone was raving about was the Domaine Moreux Sancerre Chavignol 2012. Like the Sancerre, the Domaine Bailly Pouilly-Fumé 2017 is another expression of Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley.

Sparkling wines shine when paired with fried food Southern-style fried chicken or fried beef tongue with a bottle of Champagne Drappier Brut Nature is heavenly. The crispness and freshness combined with the sharp bubbles and the vibrant acidity of this Champagne takes the whole meal a few steps ahead.

The Pouilly Fumé appellation is called that (Fumé means smoked/smoky in French) because the wines from that region typically feature mineral notes that have a flinty-smoky character. Try it with smoked turkey, you won’t regret it!

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3 Unexpected options from France

Sommeliers’ Picks

Mention French wines and most people will think of Bordeaux first, before they even imagine Champagne, Burgundy or the Loire Valley. The selection of kosher Bordeaux is mind-boggling nowadays. The tricky part is to find wines that do not require to be aged in a cellar or a wine cooler for several years before they are ready to drink. Think of some of those wines as a fine cut of beef which gains flavor and texture when dryaged for 90 days or more. It can be quite tasty even when not aged but is so much better when matured to perfection. The better red wines and some Chardonnay are like that too, except they need much more time than 90 days. Some, like Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 2015, a classified growth from Pauillac, can be aged 10-20 years and more. Château Rollan de By 2014 does not need as much time.

CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY DUCASSE 2015

CHÂTEAU ROLLAN DE BY 2014

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER BRUT NATURE

It can be aged for 10-12 years but it is already amazing now. With a grilled tomahawk steak or a standing rib roast (aged of course!) this wine is incredible!

Pair Rosé with Poultry While admittedly rosé is not the wine of choice with a steak, BBQ ribs, nor even meatballs, some rosé wines such as the Tabor Adama Barbera Rosé 2017 and the Jezreel Rosé 2017 make a wonderful pairing with grilled or roasted chicken and turkey. These are refreshing wines meant to be drunk as young and fresh as possible. Their fruity character and vibrant acidity make for great palate cleanser in between each bite.

DOMAINE BAILLY POUILLYFUMÉ 2017

PACIFICA RIESLING 2017

JEZREEL ROSÉ 2017

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modern heimish

A POM PRIME SHABBOS

Duck Fat Biscuits

î&#x192;&#x201D; Jewish food is undoubtedly having its moment. Delis, matzo balls, bagels, and brisket have become very popular throughout the US. One of the kosher industry greats, Chef Isaac Bernstein, has firmly established a cool factor for Jewish food by cooking up modern heimishe food that has changed the way we think about classics. He has spearheaded the level of food cooked at kosher delis everywhere with his Pom Prime Shabbos concept offered at the famous Pomegranate Supermarket in Brooklyn, NY. Each week, Chef Isaac prepares an incredible array of gourmet dishes in honor of the coming Shabbat. Veal milanese, black garlic rubbed steak, and General Tsoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweetbreads are some examples of the glorious food available. Chef Isaac shares his latest update on the classic chicken schnitzel. Chicken is replaced with duck and served alongside some epic biscuits (you will NOT miss the butter...thanks duck fat!) and sweet and sour agrodolce.

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Huckleberry Agrodolce

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DUCK SCHNITZEL Serves: 4

Lay the duck breast on a piece of plastic wrap and wrap the duck with another layer of plastic wrap. Flatten the duck breasts with a meat mallet, using the non-flat side. Because the duck breasts will be cooked through, tenderizing and flattening with a mallet will maximize the tenderness of the duck. Using a whisk or hand blender, blend the eggs with a tablespoon of water and salt, until completely homogenous. Season duck with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour, make sure it's well-coated. Next, place duck in egg mixture, then into panko seasoned with herbs de provence. Fry at 350°F until golden brown. Season with salt and pepper while still hot from the fryer. TEST KITCHEN NOTES: Feel free to make duck schnitzel nuggets by cutting the duck into long strips and following the directions above. Chef Isaac’s dredging instructions result in ideal crunchification. Use the same recipe when making chicken or veal schnitzel by following his instruction with your protein of choice. If you do not have a kitchen thermometer, drop a grain of rice into the hot oil. If the rice comes up to the surface and bubbles immediately, your oil is ready to go.

NOTE: These are meant to be eaten fresh out of the oven. If you will be rewarming them, it's best to freeze raw and bake from the freezer before you plan on serving them. These also work as a great topping for a pot pie. HUCKLEBERRY AGRODOLCE Makes: 1 ½ cups This sweet and sour condiment is the perfect topping for crunchy schnitzel. 2 cups frozen or fresh huckleberries ¼ cup red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar Combine all ingredients and slightly mash some of the huckleberries. Simmer till thickened, approximately 20 minutes. The sauce should have the texture of a barely-set jam, similar to compote.

DUCK FAT BISCUITS Makes: 8 biscuits 2 ⅓ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¾ teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons duck fat, broken into small pieces about the size of peas and frozen thoroughly 1 cup very cold soy milk. mixed with a drop of white vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh chives 1 teaspoon butcher black pepper 1 egg, beaten

TIPS

Duck Schnitzel

4 skinless duck breasts 4 large eggs 1 tablespoon water 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups coarse panko bread crumbs 2 tablespoons coarse herbs de provence Oil for frying

Heat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, soda, and salt. Whisk to blend thoroughly. Work chilled duck fat in with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles meal. Add soy milk, a little bit at a time, and mix until dough just begins to come together. Empty mixture onto a lightlyfloured surface and fold in on itself until dough is mostly homogenous. Gently fold into a rectangle that is approximately ¾-inch thick. Using a sharp knife or a dough cutter, cut into 8 equally sized squares and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush beaten egg onto biscuits. Bake the biscuits for 15 minutes, until golden brown.

ALTERNATE SUBSTITUTE Use frozen blueberries instead of the huckleberries. Recipe works best with frozen berries.

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travel

Diocletian's Palace is an ancient palace built for the Roman Emperor at the turn of the fourth century AD; it ocupies about half of Split's old town.

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O R A crossroads of cultural delights to explore off the beaten track. BY YOSSI KRASNIANSKI

View of the harbor and the old town of Dubrovnik Croatia w w w.f leishigs.com

A T

hinking about travel to Europe? Most people immediately think of Spain, France, or England. What if we told you to shift your thoughts from Western Europe to Eastern Europe? Believe it or not, one of the hottest travel destinations right now is Croatia, with over a thousand islands, beautiful sunsets, and small villages with old world charm. WHEN TO GO: July and August are peak tourist times in Croatia, so if you’re looking to avoid tremendous crowds, plan a trip for May, or even through fall. Not only has tourist season ebbed by September, but the weather is more bearable, and not nearly as hot as the July/August stretch. The fall season also makes visiting some of the smaller towns more relaxing and enjoyable, as the throngs have made their way elsewhere, and you can truly see the quaint villages as they are meant to be seen. WHAT TO WEAR: Should you end up visiting Croatia in August, choose clothing that is as light and as thin as you can handle, and bring a reusable water bottle with you. Most of the cities have various fountains where you can refill your bottle. This is helpful, as the price of disposable water bottles varies a lot from one city to the next, and some are rather pricey. Wear comfortable shoes! There is a lot of walking in Croatia, and you want to enjoy the sights and sounds without worrying about just how much farther you have to go before you are in the perfect spot to see a beautiful sunset (more on sunsets later!). Bring water shoes with a good sole for the beaches. Many of Croatia’s beaches are

The Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia

not sandy and therefore are not soft, nor are they forgiving when wearing something akin to flip flops – they are more like cliffs, filled with rocks and pebbles. It’s worth the trek, though, as the waters are beautifully clear and turquoise. WHERE TO STAY: Depending on your budget and taste, Croatia boasts everything from top luxury hotels and beach resorts to Airbnb style options and places that are even more cost-effective. While most of the major cities do have 5 star hotels, look to rent a “zimmer frei,” which is the Croatian equivalent of an Airbnb, for a more authentic Croatian experience.

Ti WHAT TO DO: Croatia is known for its beautiful sunsets. Speak with those who live there, and ask for their favorite spots. Many people – both visitors and locals – map out their days with the intention of catching a sunset each evening. Be sure that you’re in the perfect spot to enjoy an absolutely spectacular view! Many of the “main tourist attractions” in Croatia seem to be overrated. Trip Advisor will help with the main attractions, as well as with the places and sights that are beyond the typical. The quiet, smaller towns, and the villages with fewer people, are more often a hit – particularly if you visit when it is not peak tourist season. For nature lovers, there is Plitvice State Park and Krk Park, which offers excellent hikes and stunning waterfalls. There are also numerous small islands, and many beautiful (some even sandy) beaches. Many places offer water sports, such as boating, rafting, kayaking, and jet skiing.

History buffs will enjoy the many old cities, fortresses, and bell towers. There is not an overwhelming amount in the way of Jewish history, but there are some synagogue museums in Croatian cities Dubrovnik and Split, as well as Holocaust memorials. Most of the guide books tout “Split and Dubrovnik, with a day trip to Herzognovia” as a "must see." Here are our personal favorites: Sibenik (with salt mines, a historic city with a 15th-century stone cathedral, and an open-air theater!), Cavtat (with a Renaissance mansion, beautiful beaches, and an old city where you can walk on the Old City walls!), and Zadar (with Roman and Venetian ruins). If you have time to go island-hopping and rafting, you will take in some rather exquisite views. WHAT TO EAT: Roadside markets sell local fruits and vegetables, and Croatia is known for its honey. Other than that, there are not many kosher options, so it’s best to bring foods that can be stored without refrigeration and prepared without the help of a microwave or an oven (though staying in an Airbnb would likely provide both of those in the kitchen area, as would a luxury hotel). Foods that work easily are peanut butter sandwiches, tuna

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TRAVEL packets, crackers, granola bars, and beef jerky. Aufschnitt Meats recently released a line of beef bars (like protein bars...but with beef) that travel well and are packed with nutrients. WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW: Croatia is known for lavender products and honey. It is also known for wine and spirits, though, regrettably, none of those are kosher. Most of the young people in Croatia speak English to a decent extent. Tourism is a big industry there, and people are friendly and helpful! Automatic cars are more expensive than manual, and they need to be reserved in advance. If you are renting a car and will be going to Dubrovnik from places like Split, you will pass through Bosnia for a few miles. You will need a special green card (provided by the car rental company) to pass through the border. Google Maps works quite well in Croatia! The currency in Croatia is the kuna (HRK). Most places accept major credit cards, but it is always useful to change some money to the local currency in order to purchase things from markets and roadside stands. Croatia is rather expensive, and not a cheap “third world" destination. ADDITIONAL NOTES: There is Chabad in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, which is helpful for Shabbos. Of note is that we did not spend Shabbos in Croatia. We began our trip with Shabbos in Venice, Italy, in the Jewish Ghetto, where there are a few options for Shabbos meals. We davened at Chabad in Venice with about 500 others, which was an experience in and of itself. On Sunday morning we took the FlixBus (modern, air-conditioned) from Venice to a city in North Croatia where we rented a car. The bus is just one of many options to get from Venice to Croatia, including a short flight or ferry. After staying the week in Croatia, we flew to Rome for the following Shabbos, and flew from there back to the United States when shabbos was over. Bottom line is that if Europe is in your future, it need not be Barcelona! Resist the urge to follow the masses to the Eiffel Tower, or to visit Big Ben. Instead, plan a trip that is off the beaten path and brings you to Croatia. You’ll be glad you did. 64

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Basic Tomato Sauce

recipes  Croatian cuisine varies based on location, but is largely influenced by neighboring Greece, Rome, and Turkish cuisines. Pasta, seafood, kabobs, schnitzel, goulash, and yeast-based breads and doughs are popular throughout Croatia. Below are some classic Croatian recipes worth trying.

GRILLED CHICKEN SKEWERS Serves: 8 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, roughly chopped ⅓ cup parsley, chopped (plus more for garnish) 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

You can use light olive oil, if you prefer. The onions add flavor to the marinade but can be discarded once you are cooking the chicken. Serve with tomato sauce and fresh crusty bread. Combine all ingredients in large sealable bag or container. Marinate for 1 to 24 hours. Heat oven to broil. Skewer chicken and broil for 8 minutes on one side and 6 minutes on the second side. Garnish with fresh parsley. w w w.f leishigs.com

NOW PROUDLY CERTIFIED BY ~ KOSHER.

For a list of Jack Daniel’s kosher products please visit www.ok.org

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TRAVEL POVITICA Makes: 1 loaf This traditional holiday treat is reminiscent of babka, but the unique folding technique creates an incredible double-decker layer of swirls. The cake is swirled with a not-too-sweet walnut filling. You can use any nuts you prefer. We tried it with almonds and pecans as well. The walnuts are most authentic. If you prefer a sweeter filling, add a bit more sugar when mixing the filling mixture. Check out @fleishigsmag on Instagram for a step-by-step video forming this cake. The dough: ⅔ cup warm soy or coconut milk ¼ cup sugar 1 packet active dry yeast ¼ cup vegetable oil 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 large egg, beaten 2½ cups flour (+¼ cup for dusting surface and kneading) 2 teaspoons kosher salt The filling: 2 cups walnuts ½ cup sugar 2 tablespoons cocoa powder ¼ cup soy milk or coconut milk 1 egg yolk 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

TIPS

Pour warm milk, sugar, and yeast in the bowl of a standing mixer and let sit for fifteen minutes so yeast activates and starts forming small bubbles. Whisk in oil, vanilla extract, and egg until smooth. Using the dough hook attachment, slowly add in flour and salt, mixing for 8 minutes on medium speed until the

dough is soft and smooth. Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and leave to rise until at least doubled in size, about one hour. Brush a 2 pound loaf tin with oil. Set aside. While dough rises, prepare filling. Place walnuts, sugar, and cocoa powder into the bowl of a food processor and blend until mixture resembles sand. Add egg yolk, milk, and 2 tablespoons of oil. Pulse to combine. Set aside. To assemble pastry, dust large work surface with flour and roll out dough into a 20x12 inch rectangle. Brush dough with remaining tablespoon of oil. Dust your hands with flour and gently stretch out the dough, starting from the center, until the dough doubles in size to a 40x24 inch rectangle. Dip your hands in warm water and spread the filling over the dough until evenly covered. Starting at the long edge of the dough, roll tightly, like a cinnamon roll. Gently place one end of dough on the bottom of the prepared greased loaf pan. Form a long ‘u’ shape and roll the remaining dough over the ‘u’ to create a second ‘u’ shape on top. Preheat oven to 350°F. Allow dough to rise for another 30 minutes. Brush beaten egg over dough and bake for 45-50 minutes, until golden brown. Cover with foil if the top starts browning too much. Remove from oven and cool for 30 minutes. Remove pastry from loaf pan and finish cooling on a wire rack. Store in a sealed bag for 3 days.

1. IF YOU PREFER A SWEETER FILLING, add a bit more sugar when mixing the filling mixture.

2. TURN THE BASIC SAUCE into matbucha by blending in 1 roasted pepper and 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes.

BASIC TOMATO SAUCE Makes: 2 ½ cups This sauce is a great all-purpose tomato sauce. Add some crushed red pepper for additional spice and a pinch of cumin for an Israeli flair. You can also go a bit more Italian and add some fresh basil towards the end of cooking.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon vegan butter 1 cup diced onion 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes 1 tablespoon sugar

In a large pot, place the olive oil and butter over medium-heat. Add the onions, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Stir in the garlic, tomatoes, and sugar. Once bubbling, reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down into a sauce, 45 minutes to 1 hour. If desired, use a potato masher to create a smoother sauce. Season to taste and stir in the parsley.

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When Shifra told me that the name of the magazine would be FLEISHIGS I was confused. “Aren’t you limiting yourself?” I questioned her. “There’s a whole world of dairy out there!”

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challah

THE CLASSICS T

The black sea bass tartar was bright, tangy, and flavorful, the lovely roasted pepper sauce offered color and sweetness, and the vivid green crispy-fried avocado slices on the side were the perfect thing to scoop up every bit of this beautifully harmonized dish. It sat lovely and untouched as Shifra and I simultaneously attacked the bread basket. We shmeared generous gobs of butter on each hunk of still steaming, fresh crusty bread and sighed with happiness. Looking guiltily at the gorgeous dish we had ordered, we took note of the irony, laughed and agreed that with all the amazing food out there, we could probably happily survive on good bread and butter. So when Shifra (that’s Shifra Klein, publisher of this gorgeous magazine you are reading now) asked me to write a column for the very first issue of FLEISHIGS and told me the theme was “The Trends and the Classics” I was instantly in. After all, I wrote an entire cookbook of gorgeous on-trend challah recipes, and yet my classic challah recipe, the one that begat the whole book, is still the one I make without fail every single week. We live in an era that is unprecedented in its vast array of options. We tend to think of this as a positive development, and in many ways it is. And yet, more often than

not, this just confuses us and puts us all in a perpetual state of FOMO. The famous jam study is a perfect example of this. In 2000, psychologists Sheena Iyengar and Mark Lepper tried a little experiment. In a local food market, they set out a brilliant display of 24 different kinds of jams and jellies. The next day, they did this in another local store, but this time they only put out 6 choices. Can you guess which table generated more visits? If you said the table of 24, you were right. But now can you guess which table generated the most purchases? That’s right…the table of 6! More importantly, in my opinion, is that the ones who bought from the 6 choice display were overall much more satisfied with their purchase than the ones who chose from the bountiful display of 24 jams. More options don’t necessarily make us happier. In fact, sometimes they make us more perplexed and dissatisfied. When Shifra told me that the name of the magazine would be FLEISHIGS I was confused. “Aren’t you limiting yourself?” I questioned her. “There’s a whole world of dairy out there!” As she struggled to find the words to explain her choice that she instinctively knew was a good one... I thought maybe I understood already.

A chunk of fresh, shatteringly crusty bread. A glass of red wine. A simply seasoned steak, perfectly medium-rare. The classics never get old. And sometimes sprinkled with just a fairy dusting of the new…maybe the steak is cooked sous vide? What emerges is magical. By consciously limiting ourselves, we enhance our enjoyment of what is already there. As the wise Aesop said “A crust eaten in peace is better than a banquet eaten in anxiety.” And as our own wisest of men, King Solomon, wrote in Kohelet, “This is all that I have learned: Elokim made us plain and simple, but we have made ourselves very complicated.” Simple ingredients, limited scope… by containing our creativity within a narrower context we are freer to create something that is truly great. And that’s what this magazine, and that’s what the classics, mixed with just a bit of on-trend, is all about. Variety is—after all—the spice of life. In future issues, I promise to share with you some exotic and flavorful challah recipes that will truly expand your horizons. But sometimes, especially as we begin the New Year, it helps to remember that the best things in life are the simplest. And you can never go wrong with the classics. For this issue, I’m delighted to share with you ‘Rebbetzin Rochie’s Classic Challah Recipe.’ The recipe that launched an entire cookbook, and has brought the joy of a perfect challah to thousands of homes around the world. Be sure to take the time to savor it greatly.

CLASSIC CHALLAH RECIPE see page 70

ROCHIE PINSON IS A REBBETZIN AND SHLUCHA in downtown Brooklyn. She is also a mother, artist, and author of “the world’s most gorgeous and comprehensive challah cookbook” Rising! The Book of Challah (Feldheim, 2017). Her cookbook has garnered a huge following, and has been picked up by Anthropologie for the upcoming holiday season! Rochie brings a unique blend of wisdom, spiritual awareness, and down-to-earth practicality to the mitzvah of challah, and many other subjects, including marriage/mikvah, and general Jewish spirituality and meaning. Her voice is humorous and wise, and her energy infectious, and she lectures and leads challah workshops and seminars around the world. You can follow her—and her challah journey—through her website at www.therisinglife.net and on instagram @rochiepinson NOVEMBER 2018

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RECIPES (continued from page 69)

(continued from page 36)

For this issue, I’m delighted to share with you ‘Rebbetzin Rochie’s Classic Challah Recipe.’ The recipe that launched an entire cookbook, and has brought the joy of a perfect challah to thousands of homes around the world. Be sure to take the time to savor it.

VEGAN MAC & CHEESE Serves: 8

REBBETZIN ROCHIE’S CLASSIC CHALLAH RECIPE Yield: 8 medium challahs, 6 large challahs or approximately 48 challah rolls For this issue, I’m delighted to share with you "Rebbetzin Rochie’s Classic Challah Recipe." This recipe has launched an entire cookbook, and has brought the joy of a perfect challah to thousands of homes around the world. Be sure to take the time to savor it. 4¾ cups very warm water 1½ cups sugar 7 teaspoons granulated yeast 6 cups + 7–9 cups all-purpose unbleached white flour ½ tablespoon fine sea salt 1 cup canola oil 2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs Challah Glaze: 1 egg, well beaten + 1 teaspoon water Challah toppings: Poppy seeds, sesame seeds, or anything you like! Pour very warm water into a large bowl. Add sugar, and then yeast. Allow a few minutes for the yeast to froth or bubble. Add some of the flour and all of the salt and mix until a smooth batter forms. Add eggs, oil, and vanilla and stir again until smooth. 70

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Gradually add remaining flour, mixing with a hard spoon or standmixer until the flour has been fully incorporated into the dough. Add only as much flour as is needed to form a workable dough. If not using stand-mixer, turn the dough out onto a hard surface and knead for about 10 minutes or until the dough springs back when lightly touched. Pour 3 to 4 teaspoons of oil into the bowl. Turn the ball of dough around in the oil until the outer layer of the dough is thinly coated. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a warm, damp dishcloth and place in a warm spot to rise. Allow dough to rise for 1½ to 2 hours, until it has doubled in bulk. Separate challah with a blessing. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Divide the dough and braid or shape as desired. Place shaped challahs on lined baking sheet. Brush each challah with egg glaze after braiding. Allow challahs to rise for an additional 30 to 45 minutes. Glaze challahs again and sprinkle with topping of choice. Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes (medium-sized challah; time will vary according to challah size). The challah is ready when its underside is brown and it sounds hollow when tapped.

When we are choosing somewhere new to eat in a new city, 9 out of 10 times my husband and I will go some place vegan. The reason is super simple: vegan food has a ton of flavor. There’s a large part of me that believes that vegans feel like they have something to prove, that their food could taste better and more filling than a steak so they amp their flavor to the nth degree so you leave feeling satisfied. While I am not a vegan myself, vegan cheese and recipes in general intrigue me because they help me identify incredible flavor boosters to add to my mainstream recipes. I started making a vegan nacho sauce ages ago for a Super Bowl party. After that, I decided that this stuff tasted legit and began pouring layers of the cheesy orange sauce over pasta so that we could have real-deal barbecues with smoked ribs and sides of mac and cheese just like they do in Texas. I haven’t looked back. To get that legit cheesy tangy taste, nutritional yeast is the key. It has a Parmesan-like quality, salty and pungent at the same time. You can get nutritional yeast in many well-stocked grocery stores. Most vegan recipes require you to soak cashews overnight to soften them; but because I don’t believe anyone actually remembers to do that, I decided to boil them and see what happens. Spoiler alert, it works pretty much as well as soaking them overnight. You’re welcome. –Shushy Turin @cookinginheelss 12 ounces dry elbow macaroni noodles, cooked al dente according to package directions ½ cup raw cashews ½ cup medium diced sweet potato 1-½ cups medium diced potato ½ cup medium diced carrot 1 cup canned full-fat coconut milk ¼ cup nutritional yeast, or to taste 2 teaspoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 3 rings canned jalapeño pepper w w w.f leishigs.com

(continued from page 35) 2 tablespoons jalapeño juice 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste ¼ teaspoon onion powder ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon turmeric, optional ⅛ teaspoon garlic powder Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Cooked beef or duck bacon and chives, for garnish

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook sweet potato, potato, cashews, and carrots for about 15-20 minutes or until the vegetables are soft. Drain and place vegetables and cashews into a blender or food processor fitted with an s-blade. Add remaining ingredients, besides pasta, and blend until smooth. Adjust to taste. Pour the sauce over pasta and toss until coated. Sprinkle with more nutritional yeast if desired. Serve warm. Top with bacon and chives.

NUMBER CAKE Serves: 10 Before you begin: Create a 10-inch high number or letter to use as a tracer to create the number or letter you wish to make.

Pastry: 1 cup vegan butter ½ cup powdered sugar 1 egg 3 ¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup ground almonds ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Cream: 2 cups non-dairy whipping cream 2 containers instant vanilla pudding 2 cups cold non-dairy milk

Pastry: Make sugar cookie dough by beating together the butter and sugar until incorporated and creamy. Beat in egg and stir in remaining ingredients. Divide dough into two portions, wrap in plastic wrap, and

chill for a minimum of 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll each piece of dough between two pieces of parchment paper until it’s about 1/16th inch thick. Place dough onto a large baking tray and remove top layer of parchment paper. Cut out identical shapes, numbers, or letters using your pre-made tracer. Bake for 15 minutes, until golden. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely before piping cream. Cream: Mix the vanilla pudding with cold milk and set aside for ten minutes to set. While pudding is setting, whip cream until stiff peaks form. Fold in vanilla pudding mix. Place into piping bag. Assembly: Pipe even dollops of pastry cream on top of the cookie. Top with second cookie and pipe again with frosting. Top with fresh fruit, macarons, and flowers for decorative purposes. Can be refrigerated, covered, for 24 hours.

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wholesome eating

PITAYA SMOOTHIE BOWL Makes: 1 (12-ounce) smoothie bowl

2 (3.5 ounces) packets frozen pitaya 1 ripe banana (frozen) ½ cup frozen pineapple chunks 2 teaspoons honey plus more to drizzle as garnish 4-6 ounces ice cold coconut water or coconut milk 1 teaspoon Super Juice Powder Pink Pitaya Optional garnishes: granola, shredded or toasted coconut chips, almond or peanut butter, chia seeds, assorted berries Place all ingredients into a blender and pulse until well-blended. Pour the pitaya mixture into a cereal bowl and top with granola, shredded coconut, and a drizzle of honey and other toppings of choice.

PITAYA SMOOTHIE BOWLS+POPSICLES Eating the rainbow and tropical smoothies are two mega-trends happening in the food world today. There is nothing more fun than creating smoothie bowls any time of day or making kid-friendly popsicles for a healthy, vibrant dessert. By Sam Adler

PITAYA POPSICLES Makes: 6 popsicles Turn your smoothie bowl into a popsicle. Here’s how: Place teaspoonfuls of shredded coconuts or berries onto the bottom of your ice pop maker or ice pop molds. Pour smoothie bowl ingredients on top, filling it ⅔ of the way to leave room for the popsicles to expand. Stick your popsicle stick in the mixture and freeze at least 4 hours.

TIPS

You can easily substitute acai for the pitaya.

RUN THE FROZEN PITAYA PACKET UNDER WATER for a few seconds to loosen it up before adding to your blender. Water can be used in place of coconut water.

GE CHEF CHAYA’S ULTIMATE BOWL TOPPING: I’m all about that crunch. I top my acai bowls with granola. Lots of granola. And coconut.

 FOLLOW SAM at www.frostingsandfettucine.com 72

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recipe index

APPETIZERS + SIDES 13 20 23 39 48 70

Ahi Tuna Poke Bowls Steak Salad: Israeli Style Yellow Rice Roasted Beet Salad Hawaij Roasted Carrots Vegan Mac & Cheese

MAIN DISHES 18 18 18 23 52 28 39 56 61 64 73

Sous Vide London Broil Garlic Herb Rubbed London Broil Tequila Sunrise Marinated London Broil Yemenite Style Veal Osso Bucco Hawaij Braised Short Ribs Lamb Arayes Roasted Chicken Best Burger Duck Schnitzel Grilled Chicken Skewers Breakfast Tacos

Breakfast Tacos: Char 8 corn tortillas over an open flame for a minute or so. Top with sliced steak, sunny side up egg, avocado slices, radish and lime wedges. Serve with hot sauce.

51 61 67 71 70 72

Hawaij Chocolate Chip Cookies Chef Isaac’s Duck Fat Biscuits Povitica (Double Decker Babka) Number Cake Rebbetzin Rochie’s Classic Challah Pitaya Popsicles

CONDIMENTS 18 48 48 52 56 61 67

Onion Marmalade 3 Ways Fleishigs Hawaij Spice Blend Hawaij for Coffee Spice Blend Espresso Salt Killer Sauce Huckleberry Agrodolce Croatian Tomato Sauce

EXTRAS 19 40 42 52 72

Chili-Lime Mango Roasted Beets Charcuterie Board Essentials Hawaij Coconut Latte Pitaya Smoothie Bowl

A WEEK OF DINNERS

DESSERTS & PASTRY  BREAKFAST TACOS Tacos are always fun and the breakfast tacos (above) utilize leftovers brilliantly. We used London Broil, but you can use chicken, tofu, or fish.  GRILLED CHICKEN SKEWERS Follow recipe on page 64 and serve with fresh salad and toasted pita bread.  LAMB ARAYES WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES A full dinner of protein, carbs, and vegetables. Use any ground meat or poultry in place of the lamb. For a quick dinner, place arayes and vegetables on one sheet pan and cook on 450°F for 15-20 minutes.

 MAKE YOUR OWN POKE BOWLS Make your own dinners are a huge success because kids get to choose their favorites. In place of tuna use any fish or protein. Cook the fish if you are wary of serving raw fish to your family.  ROASTED CHICKEN BREAST WITH HAWAIJ ROASTED CARROTS Follow the directions for the chicken in the beet salad (pg. 39) and while chicken is roasting, roast the hawaij carrots (pg. 49). Serve with warm bread.

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interview

@ChefChaya on Trendsetting and Thinking Beyond the Self-’e’ We get to the meat of the matter with newly engaged (mazal tov!) Instagram lifestyle queen who has gained a loyal and ever-growing following by providing authentic, positive, food and lifestyle content without ever showing her face.

What is your favorite meat dish to eat? Schnitzel. I know you were waiting for something you couldn’t pronounce, or something ridiculously fancy. Everyone assumes I’m complicated when it comes to food, but really I’m a purist. I’m a potato kugel, Chinese food, fresh bread and butter kinda gal. What is the most complicated you’ll get with food? @MommaLicht’s Osso Bucco is my favorite, and stuffed veal pocket. And if I want to be fancy pants I’ll sprinkle Truffle Salt on it. What is your favorite dish to make? It’s truly hard to pick just one. Do I must? I love veal Milanese (It’s just a fancy name for veal schnitzel with the bone) I like to pound it super thin and get it uber Panko crispy. I love the no fail Sous Vide method. My favorite thing to Sous Vide is a beautifully marbled cowboy or tomahawk steak. I get all my stunning meats from @ThePomegranateMarket. Truth, at the end of the day, comfort food wins me over. All day. Every day. Who is your cooking inspiration? The real Queen Bee, My Mother @MommaLicht and my friend the super talented Chef Isaac Bernstein. You can follow our fun banter on my Instagram Stories. What are the secrets to your success? I’d say the secret to my success is my connection to my followers. Never giving up. Realizing that comparison is the thief of joy. I created a page that’s fun, light, insightful, witty, and entertaining but it also has value. I'm authentic, transparent and have the friend next door vibe. I focus on good vibes, inspiration and positivity. I never cross over into controversy, negativity, politics and rants. I stay motivated, I constantly raise my own bar. And I never forget to give back. And give thanks. I try to put my heart mind and soul into even my smallest acts. I’ve learned to be comfortable in the uncomfortable, as that’s the only place I grow. How far in advance do you plan your posts? Uh 30 seconds?! Truthfully, I don’t plan my posts. I’m spontaneous by nature. My stories, cooking, and posting are in real-time and what is authentically happening. Sometimes you’ll even catch me in JBJ as I’m there. What is the most ‘out-there’ gesture from a follower that was a true extension of kindness and love? ALL of my followers send 74

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me loving and a p p re c i a t i ve messages daily that warm my heart.Truly. A follower whose family owns a hotel in Manhattan generously arranged a beautiful Central Park location suite with all the thoughtful bells and whistles, including flowers, magazines, wine, candles, games and a fully stocked fridge with anything I can dream of. Another follower started a ChefChaya fan-girl account and built up quite a large following. What are people most surprised about you? Many things. Mostly that I value personal connection and real time over technology. You will seldom find me on the phone when I am in the company of family and friends. This takes a tremendous amount of self-control as my entire business is run off my cell phone. Priorities. What do you love most about Instagram? Instagram keeps pushing my creativity. I love my followers and the connection I have with them. It is truly because of them that I am who I am. I connected with thousands of people, and I’m continuously blessed with ability to inspire, make people laugh and bring sunshine into people’s daily lives. The consistent feedback, love, and comments I have received are truly touching. What can people expect from @chefchaya in the coming months? Home remodel project, my wedding preparations, the big move to Monsey, fun new marketing campaigns, and some awesome ChefChaya Promos. What were some of the trends you started? Must I brag? Shabbos table selfies. Acai bowl. Oyster steak. Truffle Mayo. Promos. Luxe Sukkah Decorating. Unboxing’s. Midnight crunch. Attitude of Gratitude. You Do You. What is a message you would like to give your followers? I have tremendous appreciation and gratitude to every comment and message you took the time out to write. I personally read through EVERY single message and personally answered them. I am who I am because of everyone who joined my @ChefChaya and @CarbsAndCarats Instagram family. w w w.f leishigs.com

Proud to be Fleishigs!