Dartmoor Magazine

Established 1985 www.dartmoormagazine.co.uk

People, places and pursuits

Issue 105 Winter 2011 £2.95

Dartmoor Prison Mutiny on the Moor 1932

The

Whitehorse Hill cist

A Perambulation of the Forest of Dartmoor

EDGEMOOR

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Arts

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From the Editor Dartmoor Magazine is published

by Edgemoor Publishing Limited Dartmoor Courtyard, 3 West Street, Okehampton, Devon EX20 1HQ 01837 659224

EDITORIAL PUBLISHER Simon Lloyd simon@dartmoormagazine.co.uk EDITOR Sue Viccars editor@dartmoormagazine.co.uk ART EDITOR Simon Lloyd simon@dartmoormagazine.co.uk

Welcome

Almost as the proofs of this issue hit my desk an email pinged into my Inbox: a press release announcing the fact that the Dartmoor area has excelled at the Taste of the West Awards 2011. (No room in ‘In the News’, so it has to go on

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this page!) As well as a host of Gold, Silver and Bronze Awards gained by local

Zara Media & Design 14 Kingfisher Court, Venny Bridge, Pinhoe, Exeter, Devon EX4 8JN info@zaramedia.co.uk

producers, Dartmoor Farmers won the Champion Product award, and were

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also the worthy winners in the tightly fought contest for the Carol Trewin South West Producer of the Year Award. And that’s not all: Michael Caines’ MBE Gidleigh Park near Chagford won the title South West Restaurant of the Year.

A couple of days later I attended an excellent Devon Renaissance (now rebranded as DR: www.DRcompany.co.uk) event at Bicton College in East Devon, titled ‘Are we making the most of our resources? Food and energy resilience in the South West’ and was further reminded of Dartmoor’s role as a key player in the region. The day was introduced by Michael Caines, and speakers included Andy Bradford of Brimpts Farm (a director of Dartmoor Farmers and Dartmoor Wood Fuel Co-operative) and, from Okehampton College, Keith Webber, whose work has reduced the college’s annual energy spend by around 40 percent over two years, with the eventual aim of becoming cash positive. It was a fascinating (and extremely positive) day.

I am putting this all in my letter because whereas I suspect that some readers would prefer every page of the magazine to be filled with features on the archaeology and geology of the moor, it is important to remember that Dartmoor is a living, working landscape and that successful local (and sustainable wherever possible) business ventures such as this are to be applauded. I think (and hope) we get the balance right in our coverage!

A brief look ahead to next May: if any of our fitter readers feel like making plans for a moorland exploration we’ll be running a perambulation of the Dartmoor Forest boundary over the first long weekend (details on page 17).

All that remains for me to do – at the end of another year – is to say a huge thank you to all those who contribute to, subscribe to and advertise in the magazine. It is a privilege for me to work on such a rewarding enterprise, and I am really grateful to all of you who support it.

Finally – and I can’t believe I’m saying this – all the best for 2012!

People, places and pursuits

Sue Viccars Editor

magazine

When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it

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CONTENTS 12 FROM A DARTMOOR HILL FARM Anton Coaker anticipates winter

14 A PERAMBULATION OF THE FOREST OF DARTMOOR

With Deborah Martin – and join us on the Perambulation in May 2012!

18 The whitehorsE hill cist And Bellever round house update

20 DARTMOOR CURIOSITIES The Amill – Simon Dell

22 farming the dartmoor hills Autumn Janet Palmer meets Layland and Gillian Branfield

27 parish boundary stones Part 1 North Dartmoor Tim Jenkinson

30 mUtiny on the moor Simon Dell looks back 80 years to the Dartmoor Prison riot

33 a warder’s tale Anthony Greenstreet on life at Dartmoor Prison in the 20s and 30s

34 william morris and devon great consols mine Robert Hesketh visits the Tamar Valley

38 understanding the dartmoor landscape part 4 Destruction of Tors

14 Deborah Martin’s Dartmoor Perambulation 2010

42 sticklepath and okehampton conservation group Mike Watson celebrates 20 years

68 walking on dartmoor Deborah Martin explores Challacombe and Golden Dagger Mine

Her work with Dartmoor Ponies – Michael French

48 nick baker’s dartmoor winter

82 The last word With Tony Beard

With photographs by John Walters

50 land of legends Dartmoor Treasure Chests – Mary Tavy

52 dartmoor arts News and reviews with Susanne Haines

58 A TASTE OF DARTMOOR Lori M. Reich visits the Dartmoor Brewery

OPPOSITE PHOTOGRAPH ANDY BROWN www.flickr.com/photos/mrbuk1/

Ideas for winter from Val Tame

44 anne belam 1925–2010

Richard Horsham

COVER PHOTOGRAPH Ponies on Dartmoor in winter PHOTOGRAPH CHRISTOPHER GOODMAN

66 IN THE GARDEN

62 eating out The Oak, South Brent – Julia Wherrell

64 DARTMOOR discovered

REGULARS 3

From the Editor

6 In the News 56 Letters to the Editor 72 News from the National Trust 74 News from Dartmoor National Park Authority 77 Book Reviews 78 Crossword & Diary December, January and February 81 Subscribe

Wells Tor (East) – Tim Jenkinson

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IN THE NEWS

In the news What’s been happening around Dartmoor?

Ancient Cross returns to Dartmoor

Bill Furneaux, Ron Johns, Mike Smith and Ed Squires (Peter Hodges away at the time) with the King Way cross

On a drizzly morning in late September an ancient stone cross (see Issue 101, winter 2010) was returned to the location of its discovery on the King Way (SX 5351 8740). The previously unrecorded granite cross was spotted in a corn ditch wall by Ron’s Ramblers (Ron Johns, Mike Smith, Bill Furneaux, Ed Squires and Peter Hodges) on one of their regular Dartmoor walks. It was temporarily removed whilst a new base was made for it by DNPA’s stonemason Andy Cribbett.

The location of the cross in the King Wall on the King Way indicates its function as a wayside cross marking the route between London to Plymouth along which the King’s Mail was taken; the ‘king’ is believed to be Charles I. By 1720 a regular post service had been established, and although much of the King Way is now covered by the A386 there are places where it is still visible, for example between Tavistock and Wringworthy. It crossed the River Burn, and ran through Mary Tavy, where long sections of it are evident. It went around Black Down, through the fields at Watervale and crossed the River Lyd close to Skit Bridge. It then ran over High Down before following the King Wall and continued across Sourton Common and Vellake before running down to Meldon (where today it is called King Lane).

It has long been believed that the King Way could well have been a route leading to Lydford and Tavistock, which were both important Anglo Saxon foundations.

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In June 2010 I was working at the DNPA Information Centre at Postbridge when a gentleman asked if he could show me some photographs of a cross that his rambling group had spotted along the King Wall on Great Nodden. The photograph revealed something resembling a Celtic cross, and I was very doubtful about it being anywhere on Dartmoor. However, my visitor pointed out the exact location on our large OS wall map. Initially suspicious, I asked him if he would mind if I validated its whereabouts myself, before reporting his find to the DNPA archaeologist. He agreed, giving me a hand-drawn map paced out in yards and his contact details, on a very small piece of paper, both of which went in my shirt pocket. I gave him my name and number, thanked him and enquired what the ‘R’ of his Christian name stood for: Ron. I asked him to contact me again within a few weeks if he had not heard from either the archaeologist or me.

Next day I set off to locate what I thought was a fictitious Celtic cross.

To say that I was thrilled with the sight that greeted me would have been the understatement of 2010! I simply could not believe that I had never spotted what Ron and his group had found. I took several photographs then set off, eager to contact both Ron and the DNPA. However, my homecoming was heralded by the sight of my work shirt flapping on the washing line; Ron’s contact details lost forever!

Devastated, I informed the DNPA archaeologist of this incredible find.

The site was checked and the discovery

validated. Remembering Ron lived in Plymouth, and checking the date on his photograph (a Thursday) I telephoned several walking groups, seeking one which walked on a Thursday… but to no avail! The weeks rolled on and I got no further. It was the only cloud marring an otherwise sunny horizon. But every cloud has a silver Photograph TOM SOBY

PHOTOGRAPH SUE VICCARS

The King Way Cross – Tom Soby’s story

Ron and Rene Johns

lining: one day I returned home to find my wife smiling broadly, Ron’s telephone number in her hand. As he had not heard

from anyone Ron and his group became convinced that I had claimed the credit for the discovery, and had telephoned my home for an update. When Ron and his wife Rene called into Postbridge to see me a few days later I told them of the recent events; and Jane Marchand, DNPA archaeologist, also verified all that I had told him.

A few months later we all met up again when Ron’s Ramblers thought that they had discovered the base of the Nodden Cross about 1½km north along the same corn ditch wall.

Unfortunately it proved not to be the case: the two broken faces did not marry up. However, every time they venture onto the Dartmoor landscape they remain hopeful that they will unearth yet another relic that has lain undiscovered for centuries.

So, to Ron and his ramblers: happy hunting!

Tom Soby (co-opted lifelong member of Ron’s Ramblers)

Photograph COURTESY OF ROGER PAUL

Photographs www.chrischapmanphotography.co.uk

IN THE NEWS

Commoners’ Council celebrates 25 years since its first meeting

On 31 August the Dartmoor Commoners’ Council celebrated its 25th birthday with a large number of its good friends and working partners.

Its host was the Gidleigh Professor Ian Mercer addresses the assembled company at Commoners’ Association Scorhill Stone Circle whose chairman, Mrs Penny Warren, owns Gidleigh Inner Common and whose vice chairman, John Jordan, is a member of the Council.

From Gidleigh Village Hall half the company walked up through Scorhill driftway and gate to Scorhill Circle, while the less able travelled via Creaber driftway by tractor and trailer (with bale seats), and the very old, with the cider, by Landrover.

Chris Chapman from Throwleigh entertained the company with his own experience of the Circle – especially of being there early on the winter solstice and seeing the sun rise over Kestor as the moon set over White Moor Stone (where the parish boundary between Gidleigh and Throwleigh meets the Forest: see pages 27–29). They’re on a straight line through the Circle! The summer solstice celebrations which regularly take place there may well be mistimed by six months.

The chairman of the Council reminded the company that Gidleigh common once belonged to Saxon royalty: Domesday Book records it, making 1000 years of commons management. The Circle and White Moor Stone must have been erected (4000 years before that) to be seen, and so must have been on open pasture. We may have been celebrating 25 years of the Commoners’ Council’s existence, but we were doing it where there is altogether 5000 years of managed grazing to celebrate too. Gidleigh Commoners’ Association here represented what Dartmoor commoners and the owners of their commons do best – together.

The assembly toasted all of that and repaired to the Village Hall once more. There Anthony Gibson, once regional Director of the NFU and a member of the Council, a good friend to all commoners (especially during their wrestling with ESA status in the 1990s), addressed the assembly. He analysed the present state of hill farming and predicted a better future, provided we manage to persuade the EU of the proper needs of the UK hills and particularly of the upland commons.

Just before lunch the chairman announced that Mrs Cherry Seage would retire at the end of that week, having served the Council for some 14 years. She was presented with a painting of ponies and sheep on Belstone Common and a bouquet from Chagford.

She, Mrs Warren and Mr Jordan had put a huge amount of work into what was a most appropriate celebration, to which, among others, had come the chairman of the Foundation for Common Land, Peter Lanfear, all the way from Gower. The company drank another toast, had lunch, cut a birthday cake, and relaxed.

Ian Mercer The celebratory cake

Filming on the moor

FLOG IT! The BBC filmed at Buckland Abbey in early September, and on the last day of August were out filming in the Belstone area of the moor.

The presenter of BBC2’s Flog It!, Paul Martin, and Roger Paul talked about the history of the Dartmoor Letterbox, its link with James Perrott and the original Cranmere Pool site, and the subsequent Letterboxes at Taw Marsh and Ducks Pool. Finally Paul presented the ‘Flog It’ Letterbox and stamp to Roger to site somewhere around the Belstone Tors.

The programme will not be screened until early in 2012 so there is no rush to search for the box; the clue will not be issued until shortly before screening, when it will be available both in the 100 Club monthly update and the on the Flog It! website.

Roger Paul

Burrator Bioblitz Following in the footsteps of the ‘Bioblitz’ idea (where people work together to find as many species as possible within a set location and over a defined time period – usually 24 hours), in September an event took place from 10am to dusk at Burrator Aboretum (an area on the northeastern side of the reservoir replanted following the catastrophic storm of 1990). Recording sessions were led by experts and included mosses, amphibians and reptiles, plants, butterflies, otters, bats and moths, along with fungi and a pond-dipping session. Although having some non-native species of tree, the area has become a wildlife haven with much focus on habitat management over the two years from the South West Lakes Trust’s biodiversity project. Over 140 different species were recorded on the day. www.swlakestrust.org.uk

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IN THE NEWS

Access to Vixen Tor denied

The heart of Holne beats again!

Moorland Guides is a newly created small Limited Company which will be engaging existing and qualified Dartmoor guides who, for many years, have been working with DNPA in providing and leading guided walks and also supporting its educational programme by guiding school groups from both this country and abroad.

DNPA have decided to significantly cut back on its public guided walks, providing only a limited quantity by their Rangers etc, and will only take UK school groups on educational walks and trips.

Moorland Guides has been set up

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Dartmoor gets 21st-century upgrade The Dartmoor Partnership is bringing Dartmoor up to date with its own iPhone app, the first tourism app for the southwest.

As iPhones have built in geo-locating technology, users will be able to bring up a wealth of information right to the palm of their hand. If a visitor finishes a walk and is looking for the nearest pub this information will be available in seconds, whatever their location.

The app is just one of the DARTMOOR new resources under the Active Dartmoor project, intended to raise the profile of Dartmoor as a centre for activity. Funded by Greater Dartmoor LEAF, The Duchy of Cornwall, West Devon Borough Council and DNPA, the project also includes THE LOOP Edgemoor Publishing’s Active Dartmoor magazine.

The Dartmoor iPhone app is available to purchase direct from the iPhone and Apple stores. Active Dartmoor magazine is available on subscription as well as from many local outdoor shops. To download the app or subscribe to the magazine, visit www.dartmoor.co.uk; or (for the magazine) www.dartmoormagazine.co.uk.

ACTIVE E w w w. a c t ive d a r t m o o r. c o m

Issue 2 ■ 2011

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ESSENTIAL SKILL FIRST AID

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Faced with the loss of their only village shop and café, the small Dartmoor communities of Holne and neighbouring Scoriton have rallied together to re-open the popular Holne Shop and Tearoom as a successful community venture.

Less than a year after it closed the shop and tearoom is now open seven days a week. Stocking a range of basics as well as locally sourced goods and gifts, it is proving popular with both local residents and visitors. Thanks to the valiant efforts of the local community this not-for-profit venture is now usually open from 11am to 5pm each day: longer opening hours depend upon more volunteers coming forward. If you would like to get involved please phone Gilly Simpson (Chairman), tel: (01364) 631344, or ring the shop/ tearoom, tel: (01364) 631188.

STOP PRESS We urgently need to raise £185,000 to buy the shop and tearoom in May 2012, and are most grateful for the generous financial support we have already received. Our Community Share Issue was launched in October, and significant sales will be needed to reach our target. Community shares are still available to purchase until 7 December.

Please pick up an information pack from the shop/tearoom, or contact Gilly.

After access to Vixen Tor was closed off by its owner Mary Alford in 2003, Devon County Council, supported by the Ramblers Association, Open Spaces Society and the British Mountaineering Council, sought to establish footpaths crossing the Vixen Tor enclosure on the basis of de facto previous usage in the 20 years prior to 1976.

But planning inspector Mark Yates said there was not enough evidence to show that the path had been a public right of way for the necessary unbroken 20-year period prior to closure. A total of 59 people gave oral or written accounts of using the path in the 1970s, but documents found by Ms Alford suggested there had been times when the path had not been used.

Mr Yates said: ‘Overall I accept that people have walked to Vixen Tor and used routes through the enclosure… I am not satisfied that, on balance, the evidence of public use of the order route, either in whole or part… is sufficient to demonstrate the dedication of this route at common law.’

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by one of the National Park Guides – Simon Dell – in consultation with the National Park. Moorland Guides will be taking on the guiding programme on 1 April 2012 when the DNPA cease to operate the guided walks.

However Moorland Guides is already in operation running parallel with the DNPA Guide Service.

Our guides will still be properly qualified, insured and trained, and will continue to have their moorland first aid qualifications and CRB checks as they did when engaged solely by the DNPA. Look out for the walks programme which can already be found on our website. Many of our guides lead walks further afield on Exmoor, the Jurassic Coast and also Lundy Island. www.moorlandguides.co.uk.

ABCT commemorates Devon’s wartime aviation history In late summer the Airfields of Britain Conservation Trust unveiled two memorials locally.

Around 90 locals turned out at Okehampton to remember the airfield and those who served there. A flyover followed the service, as did a wonderful tea in the village hall complete with the opportunity to peruse archive images and artefacts.

The ABCT team was overwhelmed by the kindness and support shown and would like to thank everyone involved.

The charity unveiled a second memorial at the former RAF Harrowbeer as part of the spectacular weekend organised to mark the airfield’s 70th Anniversary. The weekend event was a huge success with thousands of people enjoying the plethora of superb activities. www.abct.org.uk

IN THE NEWS

PHOTOGRAPH VIRGINIA POPE

See photograph: Skylark and Stonechat, Dartmoor Heritage ponies owned by Sue Parrott of Chagford, demonstrating their ability as ‘pack ponies’, before leading the way up on to Bellever Tor with members of the public, from Postbridge in early September.

‘Despite wild weather, both ponies took it all in their stride, showing just how versatile and easy-going they are,’ said Dru Butterfield of the DPHT. The walks celebrated the important contribution of ponies to Dartmoor’s heritage and demonstrated the superb capabilities and temperament of the Dartmoor Pony, a native breed recognised as being ‘at risk’.

In partnership with DNPA archaeologists, the Forestry Commission and the YHA, the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust led the pony walks as part of a series of events celebrating Dartmoor’s heritage, the 60th anniversary DNPA and the International Year of Forests.

Conservation Work at Bellever The Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust are planning a number of work parties at Bellever over the winter months and looking for helpers. There will be a number of different jobs taking place including conifer removal and clearing vegetation from some Bronze Age remains. If you are interested in helping out please contact Paul Rendell, tel: (01837) 54727 or email paul.dartmoor@virgin.net.

Dates: Sunday 11 December, Saturday 21 January, Saturday 18 February.

Dartmoor Ponies – the current situation The Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust is committed to working with pony keepers to preserve the Dartmoor Pony on the Moor. The combination of extreme economic conditions, an excess of foals, and legislation such as transport laws, passporting and microchipping, has reduced the chances for the youngest animals to find homes off the Moor.

The urgent priority is for controlled breeding on Dartmoor.

The short-term fix is to reduce the number of foals, but the long-term goal must be to improve quality and allow ponies to grow on and mature, then be handled and have true ‘added value’ for the potential buyer.

The DPHT believes that control of breeding, through removal of stallions, stallion vasectomies and mare contraception, is the key. We do not want fewer ponies on the Moor, we want more

PHOTOGRAPH ALAN QUICK

Dartmoor Ponies lead the way as pack ponies

Members of the Kagemusha Tai Ko Drummers from Exeter performed in the main arena

34th Dartmoor Folk Festival Results A few showers did not dampen the spirits of the crowds who attended the 34th Dartmoor Folk Festival. Many events were fullto-capacity and there were record entries in the Dartmoor Broom Dance championships.

Championship winner was Emilia Bazeley (9), from South Zeal. Second was Emily Rowlands (10), from Sticklepath, and joint third were Katie Jecks (11) and Molly Marvin (10), both from South Zeal. Winner of the Dartmoor Stepdance championships was Exeter’s Matt Norman, who last won the title three years ago.

Junior champion was Matthew Stoner (12) from South Zeal, also junior winner last year. The festival featured many dance teams and celebrities from the folk world, as well as local folk band The Ramsley Miners, which includes Thomas and Charlie White, great-grandsons of Bob Cann.

Plans are already underway for the 35th anniversary festival from 10 to 12 August 2012.

New Adventure Cycle Map South West Protected Landscapes and 1 South West Cycle Adventure have launched an on-line map, showing 1800km of legal cycle off-road routes all over southwest England, including Dartmoor and Exmoor National Parks. Whether you fancy a day out cycling with the family or a challenging ride, this map has something for you. Visit www.1sw.org.uk.

– but the best conservation grazers (and those most likely to find homes) are the older animals (two years plus), which have had a chance to grow on. Disposing of mares is a major risk to the future of the broad base of good bloodlines. Too many have been lost in recent years; this must stop.

The DPHT has been asked, by pony keepers, to consider setting up a ‘Code of Conduct’ that will give breeders a form of accreditation for potential buyers. We also continue to pay for castration of colts and shall be organising a number of inspections of youngstock to ensure they meet Heritage Dartmoor expectations.

There will be no Dartmoor Heritage ponies registered this year to enable us to focus on working with and selling existing stock, and to allow foals born this year (and even next) to mature enough to be judged fully on whether they are good enough to have Heritage status. www.dpht.co.uk DARTMOOR

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IN THE NEWS

Dartmoor Decorative and Fine Arts Society launches in Okehampton The National Association of Decorative and Fine Arts (NADFAS) has recently inaugurated a new branch. Starting in February 2012, the Dartmoor Association of Decorative and Fine Arts will be holding monthly lectures – nine per annum – on a variety of subjects ranging from Fabergé to Shackleton. A membership fee of £45 pa (£85 for a couple) covers the cost of all the lectures and a quarterly arts magazine, NADFAS

John Ford’s Story – MED Theatre’s Wild Nights Young Company

Review. Lectures will be held on Wednesday mornings in the Charter Hall, Okehampton. Coffee will be served from 10am, with the lecture starting at 10.30. Membership will be restricted to 150. If you would like to join please contact Alex Crosthwaite Eyre on northlew@hotmail.co.uk. www.nadfas.org.uk

‘Storybook Dads’ visits Princetown

Photograph MIKE KINSEY

HM Prison Dartmoor had an unusual visitor in late September – former ‘prisoner’ Terry Waite together with a group of 20 or so ‘convicts’ hiking as a chain gang across Dartmoor to get into the prison!

This was in aid of charity Storybook Dads (www.storybookdads.org.uk) whose mission is to fill the void left in children’s lives through the absence of a father. Dad (or Mum) reads a story which is edited onto a CD and sent to the family (a concept has also been taken up by HM Forces). The charity is led by Sharon Berry, who was awarded an OBE for her work (tel: [01752] 248486,

email: storybookdads@blueyonder.org.uk).

Terry Waite is know internationally for his long incarceration when taken hostage in the Lebanon. Also present was Prison Officer George Blake, who accompanied the walk across the moorland roads on his horse Monty. Officers once rode the Moor on horseback as a part of their duties, and George said, ‘Today I achieved an ambition by riding as a Prison Officer superintending a Terry Waite with Prison Officer gang of convicts on the Moor!’

George Blake Mike Kinsey

The last two years have seen the young people of MED Theatre perform to packed local audiences with their plays based upon Dartmoor War Prison and the life of the creator of Princetown – Thomas Tyrwhitt. The play was based in the early 1600s and surrounded the life of John Ford, an Elizabethan dramatist and playwright whose work is not well known by the general public.

The second main character was the artist John Elford from Sheepstor who created some of Dartmoor’s earliest attributable artistic works, including the unique sculpture above the porch of Sheepstor Church. The venue was the Great Barn of Buckland Abbey, a most appropriate setting. Historical direction and guidance were skilfully provided by Mark Beeson, artistic director of MED, and by Cultural Environmentalist Dr Tom Greeves.

The whole cast and team are to be congratulated for another excellent evening’s entertainment, education and enlightenment.

Simon Dell New album from Seth Lakeman The internationally renowned Dartmoor born and bred folk musician has released a new album, ‘Tales from the Barrel House’, under his own Honour Oak Records label. Recorded over two weeks this summer at Morwellham Quay (mostly in the slate-floored cooperage – hence the title). See www.sethlakeman.co.uk.

Weir below Taw Marsh, September…

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The weir on the River Taw (SX 6215 9215), built in the 1950s as part of the North Devon Water Board Taw Marsh scheme, was blown up by explosives in early October, leaving the river to resume its natural course downstream.

The whole Taw Marsh scheme of bore holes, underground aeration and balancing tanks and the Compensation Control House (the hut next to the weir) came up for sale with Bradleys the auctioneers later that month, under instruction from South West Water. Chris Walpole

Photographs Chris walpole

River Taw weir demolished

… and demolished, early October

IN THE NEWS

Changeover at Okehampton Camp

Having co-written a book on the subject of toll-houses in South Devon with Patrick Taylor in 2009, I was rather surprised to learn that a good surviving historic example of this type of building from the early 19th century in Tavistock is currently under threat of demolition. The house that stands on the southeast corner of West Bridge in the town was built c1822 by the Plymouth and Tavistock Turnpike Trust on the road out of the town (on what is the present-day A386). Recently it has been left in a rather neglected state whilst the land around it undergoes redevelopment.

Unfortunately the lack of listed status for the house now adds considerably to its vulnerability.

Although West Devon Borough Council (WDBC) have confirmed that as yet there are no plans for demolition, without its roofing tiles (see photo) there is a considerable concern among local people that further deterioration will take place over the coming winter months rendering the house unfit for habitation. Should the house eventually succumb to demolition, it will be the second historic building of its type to be lost from Devon roads in recent years after the demise of the Forches Cross toll-house on the A382 near Newton Abbot in September 2009.

Tim Jenkinson

Tony at the Duke of York’s Royal Military School

At long last (see Issue 99, summer 2010) Lieutenant Colonel Tony Clark OBE has handed over the duties of Commandant Dartmoor Training Area, 17 years after he returned to Dartmoor.

For six years he was the Commander of all the southwest’s Training Area; 11 years ago he retired from the Regular Army and took on the responsibility of managing the military interests on Dartmoor. His principle concern has been to balance the Armed Forces’ vital training needs with care for the conservation of the National Park and consideration of other users of the Moor, an objective that has been achieved through integrating the military into the fabric of Dartmoor.

Tony’s father was on the staff of Eaton Hall Officer Training Corps based at Okehampton Camp in the early 1950s when his family lived at Goldburn Farm and later in Castle Villa.

At 10 years old he attended the Duke

Photograph TIM JENKINSON

Pre-school fun in Princetown Free sessions for 0–5 year olds, 11– 11.30am Mondays at the Library, Village Centre; Princetown Pre-school children then join until midday. Drop-in Sesssions for parents and carers, 10.30am– midday Tuesdays, Village Centre. Run by Tavistock Area Children’s Centre.

Tel: (01822) 614210 email: tavistockchildrenscentre@barnardos.org.uk

of York’s Royal Military School in Dover, where the daily uniform was battle dress with short trousers and boots (not replaced by long trousers until 5ft 2in in height was achieved!). After joining the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst in 1964, he served with the Parachute Regiment until 1999. He was appointed OBE for his work devising and introducing simulation systems into Army training. In retirement, Tony intends to write the 200-year history of the military’s close involvement with Dartmoor. He is also a trustee of the Dartmoor Trust, and will continue working with the Ten Tors challenge.

Colonel Charlie Pyman has taken on the responsibilities of Commandant until Christmas when a new officer will be appointed. He is already well known to North Dartmoor as the President of the Okehampton Royal British Legion.

PhotographS COURTESY OF TONY CLARK

West Bridge Toll-house

Lt Col Tony Clark bids goodbye to Okehampton Camp

William Pengelly Cave Studios Trust, Buckfastleigh The WPCST is taking 2012 group visit bookings. The walks last for 1½ to 2 hours, during which time you can hear about local rocks and their origins including coral reefs, earthquakes, volcanoes and mountains. Learn about caves, bats and the limestone industry; walk paths rich in history and folklore; visit a cave which contains the bones of 100,000 year old elephants and hippos. School visits can be tailored to the curriculum. There is also residential accommodation for 25 persons, ideal for schools, youth-training providers and activity groups.

Tel: (01752) 775195 www.pengellytrust.org DARTMOOR 11

From a Dartmoor

HILL FARM Anton Coaker anticipates winter

ANTON A n ton Coaker

on the g oak mes finds n of his

HILL FARMING

COAKER

All the usual bullocks

All the usual bullocks

A glimpse into the life of a peasant farmer Foreword by Anthony Gibson OBE

led Doreen

All the usual bullocks A glimpse into the life of a peasant farmer

PHOTOGRAPH AGNES COAKER

Anton’s new book, a compilation of various writings taken mainly from 2008 to 2010, is now available for purchase from the author, price £9.99 (tel: 01364 631276, email: wood@ anton-coaker.co.uk, www.anton-coaker. co.uk).

Anton Coaker farms one of the ‘ancient tenements’ across the West Dart and Swincombe valleys. His family has been farming on Dartmoor for several centuries. He is helped by his wife Alison, and three children, rearing beef cattle and sheep.

Galloway beef and hide rugs are sold direct from the farm. As well as farming, Anton runs an oak sawmill business, and writes for various publications.

12 DARTMOOR

Q

uite apart from getting the stock fed and watered, with all the obvious problems the cold weather brings, like frozen troughs and tractors reluctant to start, there’s the extra visitors. These include the gawpers who brave the main road, enjoying the winter wonderland right up until they slew into a drift and get stuck (little did they know that the Borough only grits and ploughs up to the boundary, which is on top of a windy ridge, while the next door catchment can’t get their plough over the narrow bridge down in the bottom of the dip, so there’s a mile-and-a-half of uncleared road). Next up are the families coming out to let the kids build snowmen and toboggan down that slope. Unfortunately no one told them about the bull at the round feeder/barbed-wire fence halfway down/open mineshaft covered with thin skim of drifted white stuff (delete as applicable).

After abandoning their plastic tea trays and various makeshift toboggans they’ll depart, leaving the gates open. They too will then get stuck in the drift, thinking they’ll take the scenic route home.

Recovery fees generally depend on how many gates I’ve found open on the day, or how many twerps I’ve turned out to rescue already.

On less-travelled roads will come the 4x4 weekend warriors. Their souped-up Land Rovers will be sporting oversize tyres, spotlights on a bar on the bonnet, or – if they’re really hard core – the roof. Various jacks/winches/ropes/aerials will adorn their vehicles, and they’ll be out to show what big men they are. They usually career about the place until they slide into something hard – sometimes it is each other, which we enjoy very much – and have to limp home with bent toys.

Something else the winter weather brings is panic log orders. The phone will start ringing when people suddenly remember they’ll be wanting a few logs. Apparently cold weather has never happened in winter before, and they get caught out. The favourite call is from someone desperate for a load of specially cut short (‘to go in my woodburner you see’) well-seasoned barnstored firewood. It would be impertinent to ask pointedly why they didn’t think of this before the snow arrived, so we limit the conversation to gently letting them down about the indoor stored concept, and start to intimate that this firewood might not be the neat little lengths of round hazel branchwood they’re imagining. (In fact, the load they’ll be lucky to get will be guillotined offcuts

from the sawmill, with straight edges and shearedoff ends.)

About once a year such a load is subsequently rejected at the point of delivery, when the customer discovers that the awful man was describing the logs accurately. ‘They’re not proper logs Mr Coaker, they’d look terrible in the wicker basket.’

Whichever of the lads is on deliveries on the day will shrug his shoulders, phone home and ask for the next drop on the list, and the customer can just damn well shiver. (Actually, customers like that usually have a super-duper gas-central-heating system, and only keep a few logs for effect.)

Another customer characteristic to look out for is the expert. He’ll decide, after looking at this firewood he’s had delivered, that it’s completely unburnable. He’ll tell me, frothing down the phone, that the load is all sorts of quite unsuitable species. They will never burn. Again, quite how the description given should lead to any misunderstanding is beyond me. I’m just not in the business of sending the truck out with something other than what it is meant to contain.

What would be the point? And as for the species, if I’m running a business cutting oak beams, isn’t it a pretty good bet that not only will I know what is in the log bunker, but that it is quite likely to be… well… oak.

Anyway, they rant, I’m to come straight down that night and take this unburnable rubbish away.

They want a refund.

I generally count to five, and gently ask whether they’ve tried making a fire with this unburnable wood? Oh, they haven’t? Perhaps they might try, just for tonight. If this doesn’t do the trick –‘There’s no point man, I’ve told you it’ll never burn’ – I have been known to offer to come and see if I can kindle a blaze with said logs against, say, their back door. That usually shuts ‘em up, and happily they seldom phone again.

I should say that most of our log customers are quite happy, not being overly exercised that the logs aren’t ‘pretty’, seeing as they’re only going in the fire, and remembering to order a month or two before they run out, so they’ll have nice dry logs, and be toasty warm all winter.

Bon nuit. ■

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DARTMOOR 13

OUT AND ABOUT

A Perambulation of the Forest of Dartmoor Encircling the high moor, this historic boundary makes an outstanding walk. Deborah Martin follows the trail of 12 medieval knights Photographs Feli Arranz-Fenlon, George Coles & Deborah Martin

Historical Background The Perambulation is probably the oldest of Dartmoor’s historical routes. It marks the boundary of the land that belonged to the Crown and was known as a forest because it comprised the King’s hunting ground. Though Dartmoor Forest originally belonged to the King, in 1337 Edward III granted it to the Black Prince who was also Duke of Cornwall and it has remained part of the Duchy of Cornwall ever since.

The Forest lies within the parish of Lydford and adjoins 21 other parishes, so there are numerous boundary stones around its borders. In order to mark out the line of the boundary various Perambulations have taken place over the centuries, the earliest one recorded being in 1240. In that year the reigning King, Henry III, despatched 12 of his knights to ride on horseback around the Forest boundary and to record certain fixed points on the route.

They made the journey clockwise, starting in the north, and these are some of the points they noted: Hogam de Cossdonne (Cosdon Beacon) – Parva Hundetorre – Thirlestone (Watern Tor) – Wotesbrokelakesfote (Hugh Lake foot) – Heighestone – Langestone (Long Stone on Shovel Down) – Furnum Regis (King’s Oven) – Wallabrokeshede (Walla Brook head) until it falls into the (East) Dart – another (West) Dart to O Brook – Dryework (Dry Lake) – Battyshull (Ryder’s Hill) – Wester Wellabroke until it falls into Aven (Avon) – Ester Whyteburghe (Eastern White Barrow) – Redelake (Red Lake) – Grymsgrove – Elysburghe (Eylesbarrow) – Crucem Sywardi (Siward’s or Nun’s Cross) – Ysfother (South Hessary) – aliam Ysfother (North Hessary) – Mystor (Great Mis Tor) – Mewyburghe (White Barrow) – Rakernesbrokysfote (Rattle Brook foot) – la Westsolle (Stenga Tor) – Ernestorre (probably Yes Tor) Another Perambulation was recorded in 1608 and a few more details added to the route. In subsequent years the line of the boundary varied in places as different parishes disputed the bounds set by the Duchy, and the boundary line shown on Ordnance Survey maps is the more modern alternative. On the whole, the differences between the two are not great.

14 DARTMOOR

Our Walk In May 2010 a group of us from the Ramblers’ Moorland Group walked the Perambulation over three days with overnight stops. Doing it as a continuous walk has the advantage of gaining a perspective on the whole route, of ‘joining up the dots’ of the significant features that mark out the boundary. Though the knights of 1240 started at Cosdon, we opted to begin at Dartmeet for practical reasons. May meant long daylight hours – but would the weather be kind? We knew there would be some challenging terrain underfoot and numerous rivers to cross, so hopes were pinned on a dry, clear spell. This is a brief account of our journey.

Day 1: Dartmeet to Princetown (about 16 miles)

Crossing the West Dart at Week Ford

We set out in bright sunshine but with a chilly breeze – ideal walking weather. With the Dartmeet stepping stones looking slippery, we walked upstream to Week Ford to cross the West Dart and then followed the boundary up the O Brook. After a coffee break at Dry Lake Foot we began the long climb up to Ryder’s Hill. We failed to find the Holne boundary

Okehampton

OUT AND ABOUT

Cullever Steps Yes Tor

Cosdon Beacon

B3212

Long Stone

Moretonhampstead

Lynch Tor

Tavistock

Bovey Tracey

B3357 North Hessary Tor

Dartmeet

Ryder’s Hill

Eylesbarrow

Ivybridge

rock in Wellaby Gulf but passed another two bound stones on our way to the top. A group of cattle were gathered around the trig point and looked a bit surprised at this intrusion on their territory.

From Ryder’s Hill we turned SSE over rather squelchy ground to find the head of the Western Wella Brook and then followed the stream down to Huntingdon Cross. The historical boundary crosses the Avon here but we prudently used the clapper bridge upstream, though Feli (our leader today) made sure we returned down the opposite bank of the river before the ascent to Eastern White Barrow. This ancient burial mound is the southernmost point on the boundary and a fine viewpoint over south Devon, but the chilly wind made us shelter in a nearby tinners’ gully for lunch.

It didn’t take long to pass Western White Barrow and then it was down to Red Lake to follow the Erme upstream; the spoil heaps around here are evidence of medieval tinworkings. From Erme Head Ford it was more or less a beeline to Plym Steps, with plenty of typical ‘Dartmoorish’ terrain to enjoy on the way. The boundary crosses the river here, then runs uphill past the Hartor Tors to reach Eylesbarrow, another ancient cairn. Just below it are the ruined buildings of the 19th-century Eylesbarrow tin mine. From the cairn it was downhill to Siward’s (or Nun’s) Cross, with a clear view ahead and west to the tors around Burrator. Now we just had the long tramp into Princetown along the sandy track, passing the lump of South Hessary Tor, named as Ysfother by the early perambulators. The prospect of tea at Fox Tor Café kept us going at a brisk pace. Sunshine all day: so far so good.

Ashburton

The Boundary of the Forest of Dartmoor

National Park boundary Historical Forest boundary Modern variations Main roads across the moor

Day 2: Princetown to Belstone (about 17 miles)

The cobbled ford at Cullever Steps

Next morning was a different matter altogether – thick mist and drizzle. Typical Princetown weather! Girded up in waterproofs we set out, thinking it could only get better.

It didn’t. We climbed to North Hessary Tor, then when Great Mis Tor loomed out of the mist we stopped for coffee, picturing the view in our mind’s eye. Continuing north to the Walkham, we crossed it near Dead Lake.

This was the first of several rivers to be crossed today, so the rain wasn’t welcome; but George, today’s leader, had contingency plans in case of high water levels. As we continued to White Barrow (probably Mewyburghe of the 1240 Perambulation) visibility improved and we could see DARTMOOR 15

OUT AND ABOUT Limsboro Cairn before we reached Day 3: Belstone to it. Now there was a marshy section to Dartmeet (about 19 miles) reach Western Red Lake, which we followed down to the Tavy.

This had to be crossed to avoid a lengthy detour; the rocks were wet but well above the water and, despite a few shrieks, no one fell in. On the far side we had a well-earned lunch break, now resigned to wearing our waterproofs all day.

We left the Tavy to follow the Rattle Brook upstream virtually to its source. The sky Coffee break at Cosdon Beacon was beginning to clear and we could see the Dunna Goats ahead and, soon, the remains of Bleak A sunny morning – and my turn to House. This well-known ruin was lead so I was well pleased – and, by built in about 1879 for the manager luck, the sun remained with us all day. of the Rattlebrook peat works; then We walked back towards Cullever it was called Dunnagoat Cottage, but Steps then climbed steeply up beside today it lived up to its present name.

Irishman’s Wall to cross the Belstone We stayed with the Rattle Brook, ridge. The views were exceptionally passing a boundary stone marked L clear and ahead was our next port of for Lydford, until it vanished into the call, Cosdon Beacon. Although no general surrounding bogginess, at longer on the Forest boundary, it was which point we veered east to Stenga included in the 1240 Perambulation Tor. Things were looking up: across so we felt duty bound to go there. the valley the High Willhays/Yes Tor Descending to the Taw, we were ridge was clear of mist – perhaps the able to cross easily at the ford and weather was changing? Contouring begin the long ascent. Our coffee round, then descending, we reached break at the top was rewarded with the West Okement at Sandy Ford; panoramic views and these continued again we were lucky – it was just as we walked south along the ridge to possible to cross (quickly) without the stone circle and the White Moor getting water in our boots. Nearby in Stone. This latter is unmistakably on the rushes is the first Okehampton the boundary for it bears the letters parish boundary stone.

‘DC’ on its south face, as well as ‘TP’ Now came the steepest climb of and ‘T’ for Throwleigh and South the day, up to Fordsland Ledge and Tawton parishes. From this point we then on to High Willhays. Sadly, chose to follow the modern rather than that window in the weather had the historical boundary – a higher disappeared and we groped our way level and more interesting, though along the ridge, almost touching slightly longer, route. After Hound Yes Tor before we saw it. A descent Tor and Wild Tor Well, the next climb through clitter brought us to the took us up to Watern Tor, where ‘GP’ Red-a-ven Brook, then up to West carved into the Thirlstone marks the Mill Tor. Down towards Row Tor boundary with Gidleigh parish. Now it the sky finally cleared and we had was down through Hawthorn Clitter, a good view ahead of the Belstone across Hugh/Hew Lake and over ridge – something to look forward to Manga Rock, also marked ‘GP’. to tomorrow. Following the lovely Crossing the North Teign at Manga Black-a-ven Brook, we reached Rails, we stopped for a lunch break – Cullever Steps and the two boundary this time in summer sunshine! stones that mark the meeting of Over Stonetor Hill and past two Okehampton and Belstone parishes; boundary stones, the next significant though it’s not recorded on the stones, point was the Long Stone; this bears this is also the Forest boundary. We the letters ‘DC’, ‘C’ and ‘GP’ to crossed the East Okement and left the record the Forest’s boundary with boundary to walk into Belstone. both Chagford and Gidleigh. Beyond 16 DARTMOOR

Thornworthy Tor lies a barrier that wouldn’t have troubled the knights in 1240: the Forest boundary now passes through Fernworthy Reservoir. We opted for the drier route via the footpath below the dam. After a brief look at the Heath Stone (uncertain as a boundary marker, but clearly showing the religious conviction of a reservoir superintendent), we trekked south over Hurston Ridge, crossing the stone row to reach the mining remains near King’s Oven. A grassy mound here is believed to be the site of Furnum Regis.

The boundary now follows the Walla Brook, but lack of access point near Runnage entailed a detour down the Redwater valley and through Soussons plantation, with a view of tin-mining remains on the way.

Rejoining the boundary at Runnage Bridge, we passed the ancient tenement of Pizwell Farm and took a permissive path to reach Riddon Ridge. The carved stones here mark tinners’ boundaries, not the Forest, which continues along the Walla Brook. The ridge seemed to go on and on – by this time leg muscles were aching – but at last we reached the track to Babeny Farm and were soon back at the Walla Brook, which we followed down to the East Dart. It was then just a short step back to the start.

Tired muscles aside, the overwhelming feeling was a great sense of achievement. We had experienced some of the best parts of the moor in a continuous walk that had linked the past with the present and brought history to life. If you’ve never done the Perambulation, it’s well worthwhile. And what’s more, you can then enjoy the accolade of being a recognised ‘bounder’! ■

The White Moor Stone, bearing TP for Throwleigh parish and above, less clearly, DC for the Forest boundary; on the other side is T for South Tawton

OUT AND ABOUT

Join us on the Perambulation!

Dartmoor Magazine in conjunction with Spirit of Adventure is running a Perambulation of the Forest of Dartmoor over three days in early summer 2012. Starting from Okehampton YHA early on the morning of Saturday 5 May, and ending in the same place on Monday 7 May, accommodation for the Saturday and Sunday nights (and transport to and from) will be available at Spirit’s bunkhouse at Powdermills.

Kit

• Good walking boots and socks that you have been wearing while training • Gaiters (advisable) • Waterproofs – top and bottom – good ones that you have tried and tested • Water bottle – plus purifying tabs for refills • Light day rucksack • Warm hat/gloves • Packed lunch, plus lots of nibbles and energy food (cheese, fruit, nuts etc), but only carry enough for each day • Torch • Small first aid kit including foot repair kit and sun protection cream • Spare socks • Small camera or phone camera for the record Keep everything to minimum weight – don’t spoil your walk by being overloaded!

Fitness/Terrain

Those knights didn’t seem to follow any nice easy paths and they didn’t have GPS! This trek is a challenge with some fairly rough/boggy terrain. Get yourself fit enough and the pleasure to be derived from this fantastic route will be so much greater. You will not be hassled to walk fast – we don’t want to miss the interesting sights and sounds nature has provided. However, you will be covering about 16 miles a day, mostly cross-country off the main tracks. A good level of walking fitness is essential.

A good way to gauge if you are fit enough is to jot down your last couple of years’ walking trips.

• How many were 12 miles or more, and how did you feel afterwards?

• How many where off the main tracks?

• How many included a fair number of good ups and downs?

• Did you find them a real challenge, or did you feel pretty good afterwards?

Ask yourself these questions and be honest. Identify your needs – more miles – more uphills – more rough terrain – more boggy traverses – then write down a realistic training plan that fits with your busy life.

Its a great trek and a good challenge and should be well within the capabilities of anyone who regularly walks a reasonable distance – you may just need some extra days out with a few extra miles to get yourself in good shape.

NB No dogs.

Costs

Whole package (3 days’ guiding, 2 x evening meal, 2 x packed lunch, 2 x breakfast, luggage transfer and pick-up to bunkhouse) £125 per person Single days (guiding only: own transport to and from start and finish) £25 per person per day For more details and to book a place please contact Martin Hibbs, tel: (01822) 880277, martin@spirit-of-adventure.com www.spirit-of-aventure.com

17

Two boundary stones (one known as Petre on the Mount) on Ryder’s Hill mark the Forest’s boundary with Holne and Buckfastleigh DARTMOOR 17

ARCHAEOLOGY

Excavation of the

Whitehorse Hill cist Jane Marchand, Senior Archaeologist DNPA

T

his August the excavation took place of the prehistoric burial cist situated within a peat mound on Whitehorse Hill. The work was carried out by archaeologists from the Cornwall Historic Environment Service with assistance from specialists from English Heritage and Plymouth University.

The project, which was co-ordinated by archaeologists from the DNPA, was jointly funded by the NP and English Heritage, with contributions from the Duchy of Cornwall, the Dartmoor Trust, the DPA, Devon County Council, Dr Jeremy Butler and Helpful Holidays.

The cist was discovered over 10 years ago when what appeared to be its end stone fell out of the peat mound which had been concealing it. A temporary wall was built across the open area in an attempt to protect the archaeology which it might still contain. Since that time the peat has slowly eroded away from the sides and the top of the peat mound, and the site had become a Monument deemed to be High Risk by English Heritage. The decision was therefore taken to excavate it in order to recover any surviving archaeological and 18 DARTMOOR

environmental information which would soon have become lost.

The cist’s seemingly isolated position and elevated position (standing at over 600m OD), well away from other known archaeological sites, was unusual. This also caused some logistical problems in getting the necessary equipment and archaeologists up to the site. The MOD were extremely helpful in this respect, providing transport and the use of the Military Observation Post on Hangingstone Hill as an overnight store A survey of the immediate area surrounding the cist was carried out by Dr Phil Newman before the excavation took place. The exposed face and top of the mound was cut back and cleaned and the cist was recorded in section. Samples were taken from the peat surrounding the cist; these will be analysed for pollen, macrofossils (beetles) and testate amoebae and should produce important information relating to the environment at the time the cist was built.

During the late afternoon, three days into the excavation, the stones of the cist were dismantled and the large cover stone

(measuring 0.8 x 0.6m) was removed. This revealed what could best be described as a burial deposit lying in situ on the basal stone of the cist. Two sharpened wooden stakes were also discovered outside the cist, one lying horizontally against one of the side walls and the other still vertically placed into the peat against one of the end stones. The stakes are currently being examined at Plymouth University. By this time it was realised that the cist had been laid out differently to what was first supposed: what had been thought to be one of the end stones which had fallen out was in fact a side stone.

As heavy rain was threatened for later that evening, it was necessary to remove the deposit immediately from its very exposed location. The entire deposit, including the granite base stone, was wrapped up in clingfilm and wheeled in a wheelbarrow from Whitehorse Hill down to a Land Rover parked at the bottom of Hangingstone Hill, a difficult and somewhat bumpy manoeuvre.

It was driven on to a laboratory in Wiltshire where it is currently being micro-excavated – that is, being dug in

ARCHAEOLOGY 1cm horizontal spits, a lengthy and timeconsuming business. A perforated shale bead was discovered lying on top of the assemblage; more shale beads, together with beads made from amber, have now also been recovered.

Whilst the extent of what else is there is still not entirely clear, there is no doubt that there are a variety of organic remains contained within it. These include an animal hide, plant remains, strips of worked leather, and what appears to be a bag-shaped woven item, the stitches of which are still visible. These organic remains are optimistically what could have been expected to be preserved within the peat. The big surprise, however, has been the discovery of cremated bone (together with charcoal), which do not normally survive within the acidic peaty conditions.

The important information which this deposit has the potential to produce cannot be underestimated. There is still more specialist analysis to be carried out before conservation work can begin, all of which will be very costly.

The excavation attracted a lot of interest with many people walking out to the site; it was also covered by BBC Spotlight and the Western Morning News.

An open afternoon organised by the DNPA and the DPA with 4WD transport to Hangingstone Hill included some veteran Dartmoor names, such as Ted Birkett Dixon and Brian Le Mesurier. ■

Bellever update

PHOTOGRAPH © DNPA

Andy Crabb, Archaeologist DNPA

PHOTOGRAPH ALAN ENDACOTT

Trowelling back the paving

Recording the cist in position before its removal

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Whitehorse Hill cist excavations PHOTOGRAPH © DNPA

Burial deposit on top of base stone

The excavation of a storm-damaged Bronze Age settlement continued in July, with archaeologists from AC Archaeology returning to the site to carry on the project. The dig is investigating the impacts of past tree growth and forestry activity on this important archaeological landscape. Previous excavations revealed a remarkable sequence of well-preserved features and deposits, along with evidence for the ritual abandonment of the main round house. The July 2011 excavation focused on the external area between the main round house and a smaller circular structure to the east, and also investigated a boundary that appeared to link the two structures.

Archaeologists were not to be disappointed by the results. They revealed a well-defined courtyard area that was bounded by both the round house and a smaller structure, with the boundary closing off one side. A gap in the boundary was identified, which would have allowed access into the yard area. Paving, composed of granite slabs, was particularly well preserved alongside the main round house. The paving may have originally spread across the entire yard but had been severely disturbed in places by the modern tree growth.

A small section of the smaller circular structure was excavated, including a portion of the entrance doorway. This was revealed to be well preserved and had been paved with granite slabs. The doorway faced towards the entrance of the main round house, and the two openings were linked by a paved pathway. This strongly indicates that the two structures were in use at the same time.

Excavation within the small structure was limited, but it appears that internal floor and occupation layers also survive within the secondary structure. It is probable that these are similar to those recorded in the main round house (see Issue 97, winter 2009). A posthole for a roof support was also identified but had unfortunately been disturbed by modern root growth.

A report on the findings of the project will be published later this year.

The excavation was organised by the Dartmoor National Park Authority with additional funding generously provided by the Forestry Commission and Dartmoor Trust. A series of well-attended guided walks to the site were organised as part of the 2011 Festival of British Archaeology.

PHOTOGRAPH © DNPA

Close up of a woven object PHOTOGRAPH WILTSHIRE COUNTY COUNCIL

Vertical and horizontal wooden stakes PHOTOGRAPH ALAN ENDACOTT

Shale bead PHOTOGRAPH ALAN ENDACOTT Close up of leather fragment PHOTOGRAPH WILTSHIRE COUNTY COUNCIL

STOP PRESS As we go to print news is just in that the material excavated from the Whitehorse Hill cist has been dated to the Early Bronze Age, and is of national significance to the archaeological record.

DARTMOOR 19

out and about

Dartmoor Curiosities Simon Dell visits some of the moor’s lesser-known and curious features

PHOTOGRAPH SIMON DELL

Last winter as I was snowed in at Tavistock I had been due to lead a guided walk at Two Bridges. The sun shone, the skies were cobalt blue and Dartmoor had been transformed into a winter wonderland just waiting to be enjoyed, if only I could have got the car out!

The few folk who had been able to make it up to Two Bridges in their 4x4 vehicles kindly telephoned me to ensure I was OK, but also to let me know exactly what I was missing – an ice-encrusted and crystal-encased moorland full of the ammil.

Every so often when the temperatures across the moors drop well below freezing (as we have seen for a few winters now) Dartmoor is transformed into something which resembles an ice-enamelled kingdom.

Indeed the word ammil is thought to simply be a corruption of the word ‘enamel’, and maybe the old moormen were responsible for bringing this unique Dartmoor word into our local vocabulary. The old English word for enamel was ammel, so it is only natural that such a word might still survive in our rural isolation here on the moors. The word rarely appears anywhere else, and the phenomenon we call ‘ammil’ on the moors is known by a variety of other more modern terms such as hoar frost or rime. However, there is some science behind everything, and Dartmoor’s ammil is no exception.

Hoar frost might form as liquid dew that has subsequently frozen with a drop in temperature, which is then known as silver frost or white frost. Usually the dewdrops do not freeze immediately, even if the air temperature is slightly below zero; rather they become super-cooled dew droplets at first. Supercooled dew will eventually freeze if the temperature falls below about -3°C to -5°C. Hoar frost deposits might also derive by sublimation, when water vapour is forming ice directly on the surfaces concerned. In most cases hoar frost will have formed by a combination of the processes above.

Hoar frost must not be confused with rime, which derives from freezing fog or glaze which forms as a continuous thick layer of ice, rather than individual frozen droplets. However, our ammil is created when a slight thaw results in everything starting to get moist – then a sudden drop in temperature refreezes the water and so everything is encased in ice. Blades of grass and foliage of bushes all bear the heavy weight of their ice shrouds. Even buildings and trees become encased – sometimes the ammil can bring down branches 20 DARTMOOR

PHOTOGRAPH Sue Murphy

The Ammil

of substantial trees. I recall the unseasonal weather of April 1981 when I was travelling in a team of Royal Marine snowcats past Rundlestone in thick snowdrifts and we saw the trees in the woods there encrusted in ice – oh for a camera!

Looking back upon my youth in the 1960s in North Devon I would frequently sit and listen to Henry Williamson as he recited from his novels, including his most famous perhaps – Tarka the Otter. His description of the ammil by Cosdon captured it all: When the sun, like an immense dandelion, looked over the light-smitten height of Cosdon Beacon, Tarka was returning along a lynch, or rough trackway to the river. The grasses, the heather, the lichens, the whortleberry bushes, the mosses, the boulders – everything in front of the otter vanished as though drowned or dissolved in a luminous strange sea. The icy casings of leaves and grasses and blades and sprigs were glowing and hid in a mist of sun-fire.

Probably the most well known of ammils on Dartmoor was recorded in the March of 1947. It became known as ‘The Great Ammil’, and is well described by St Ledger Gordon: For two months white Winter had allowed his artistry full scope, as displayed in fantastic snowdrifts and frozen waterways, but the climax came with light rain, falling with the thermometer well below freezing point. Every bush, tree, sprig of heather, bracken frond or reed, every rail or post, each inanimate object, was sheathed in ice as though in a glass case...

So just maybe here on Dartmoor we have a single word – passed down by the ancient moormen from old English – for this strange phenomenon when ever body else has to use a sentence to describe the ammil. ■ The photograph of the ammil at Bellever has been kindly supplied

by Sue Murphy of Postbridge (www.dartmoorphotographs. co.uk) and occurred in 2006. The small image of frozen grass was pictured in 2010 at Merrivale.

The

Carpenters Arms

A delightful traditional country pub - located a few minutes from Haytor in the lovely Dartmoor Village of Ilsington Sunny Patio Garden and cosy bar and restaurant area.

A regularly changing home cooked menu using local produce and suppliers.

Ice creams, creams teas and child size portions from the main menu.

We stock a range of well kept Real Ales, Beers, Cider and fine wines.

Traditional Sunday Roast.

Parties and small functions catered for.

Families, Dogs, Horses, Muddy Boots and wet coats are all welcome!!

Open all day on Saturday and Sunday from 12.00 noon, Monday to Friday open from 12.00 noon to 3.00 and 6.00 to Midnight (10.00 on Sunday) Food Served every day from 12.30 to 2.30 and 6.30 to 9.00 (8.00 Sunday) Ample parking in the village All major debit and credit cards accepted.

THE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF DARTMOOR Surrounded by stunning open moorland, tors and rivers, Prince Hall nestles in the very heart of Dartmoor between Ashburton and Princetown.

Superb freshly prepared local seasonal food is served in the restaurant or lounge in front of log fires both with spectacular views across the moors.

Fabulous walks straight from the hotel, attentive staff and a very warm welcome await.

We are truly dog friendly!

Coffees, Light lunch or Restaurant Lunch served every day! £19.95 FOR 3 COURSE SUNDAY LUNCH

The Carpenters, Arms Ilsington, Near Haytor Devon TQ13 9RG 01364 661629 www.carpentersilsington.co.uk

CONTACT 01822 890403 www.princehall.co.uk

Fox Tor Cafe

Licensed Cafe Off-Licence Bunkhouse The Fox Tor Café is a licensed cafe and is situated close to the centre of Princetown the heart of Dartmoor. We provide bunkhouse accommodation and have the only off-licence in Princetown. We welcome everyone in our cafe from walkers with dirty boots to businessmen in need of our free WiFi. We also welcome well behaved dogs on a lead! We have an open fire as well as a woodburner!!

A country inn in the middle of Dartmoor, with 10 bedrooms (all en-suite or private bathroom). Bed and Breakfast from £32 per person. Stables and grazing also available.

A Haven for walkers, riders, fishermen or anyone just looking to enjoy the natural beauty of Dartmoor.

We specialise in homemade foods using local produce wherever possible.

With the emphasis on Devon beers and cider, you have the opportunity to quench your thirst after the efforts of the day with a drink at the bar or relaxing on the Chesterfields in the lounge area, complete with a log fire for Winter evenings.

Muddy paws, hooves and boots welcome.

Two Bridges Road, Princetown Devon PL20 6QS

01822 890 238 foxtorcafe.com

Hexworthy Near Princetown Devon PL20 6SD Telephone 01364 631211 Fax 01364 631515 Email info@theforestinn.co.uk

HILL FARMING

farming the Dartmoor HillS autumn

WORDS JANET PALMER PHOTOGRAPHS OSSIE PALMER

Working the fields at Moorlands

Farmers Layland and Gillian Branfield Princetown

T

umbling from the murky water the ewe shook herself violently to rid her wool of the pungent chemicals. As the powerful mixture did its work she sensed a change, a diminishing of the constant irritation from parasites and an easing of the sore discomfort they caused. Layland Branfield watched his animals head off into the nearby field from the enclosed platform of his mobile dipper, a quiet smile of satisfaction on his face. He enjoyed these moments immensely, his experience recognising through their carefree movements the relief this process brought for them.

Dipping is not compulsory these days and many farmers have adopted other means of dealing with parasites and ticks which bring unpleasant diseases. Nevertheless it is still the best overall way to deal with sheep scab mites, blowfly maggots which can eat into the flesh of the animal, and other unpleasant parasites.

22 DARTMOOR

No more pests!

A mobile dipper is a raised platform with an embedded bath and two ramps giving approach and exit. One by one the sheep were encouraged up the ramp from a holding pen to where Layland waited on the platform to ease them into the water, making sure that even their

heads were submerged briefly to eradicate sheep scab mites which can infest their ears and eyes. A couple of lame sheep were eased gently into the water and out, and of course the whole process was an opportunity for Layland to give each animal a quick inspection.

‘We dip twice a year – at the beginning of August and again in October,’ Layland told me. ‘That spread of time gets rid of the pests and gives them a certain immunity should they be in contact with other animals. I mix in a disinfectant too – a bit like Jeyes Fluid – which acts as a waterproofer for their coat as well.

‘When we moved here I needed another income string. Dipping was still compulsory then and I took on a mobile dip from a Tiverton man and he suggested I did the dipping on Dartmoor. In those days I was scanning through January and February, lambing in April, shearing and calving in May. Once I sheared

HILL FARMING

necessary for Dartmoor and the carcass makes nice eating, whilst the Bluefaced Leicester have a better shape plus superior mothering and milking ability,’ he explained.

‘Crossing the two breeds in this way brings together the best qualities in both2: a good quality carcass and two well-shaped lambs. We kept a small flock of Bluefaced Leicesters to breed our own lambs which over a few generations acclimatise to our upland conditions and provide a better cross with the Swaledales. It’s a matter of experimentation, selecting which animals to breed from and which to sell on until the flock is just right. By 2001 I had reached my goal.’

Prince Hall fields against a background of Bellever and Laughter Tors

for added income too, but a prolapsed disc forced me to stop and Tom Cleave now does my shearing.’

From Prince Hall Bridge the track climbs to Moorlands Farm through the trees which here line the beautiful River Dart. Layland and his wife, Gillian, took over Moorlands in 1987 and later added neighbouring Prince Hall Farm, with its grazing rights on Dunnabridge Common, to their holding, giving them today an acreage of 570 of which 200 acres is moderate grassland and 370 rough moorland. It is a Duchy tenancy as are their nearest neighbours, Dunnabridge Farm and Great Sherberton. Because of their close proximity when foot and mouth came to Dunnabridge in 2001, the surrounding farms became part of the contiguous cull. Few people will forget Layland’s sorrowing but dignified face in the local and national press epitomising the grief of every British farmer forced to endure the annihilation of the animals whose precious bloodlines he had spent many years creating.

‘We brought a flock of Swaledales with us when we came to Moorlands,’ Layland said. ‘I knew this breed first through my father who had a few on his Exmoor farm, and soon after we were married I tended a flock of 800 Swaledales in Cumbria. We were newcomers here and there weren’t

The West Dart at Prince Hall Bridge

too many Swaledales on Dartmoor then which made them easily recognisable. Nowadays we know our neighbours and can recognise one farmer’s sheep from another when we assist in gathering in stock on common grazing ground.’

Layland’s expertise with sheep stemmed from his days at sheep college in Northumberland and his working days on farms in the north of England. Every farmer has a favourite mix of breeds to produce a good lamb carcass. On upland areas such as Dartmoor they must also have a special hardiness and in the north of the country Swaledale ewes bred with Bluefaced Leicester rams1 had worked well for Layland.

‘Swaledales have the hardiness

What followed in that awful year is well documented. For Layland and Gillian it was the loss of 1000 breeding ewes and 120 cattle, Aberdeen Angus cross Friesian cows and an Angus bull named Guiseppi.

For several months Moorlands fell silent – even their three children, Laura, William and Emily were away in Princetown being looked after by friends for several weeks. It was a reflective Layland who remembered those traumatic months: ‘We started again more or less from scratch. I had a blueprint which worked for me, but I was now 13 years older. I thought I could do it all again quite quickly, but it will be next year before I can look at my flock and my herd and say “Yes, DARTMOOR 23

HILL FARMING I’ve ironed out all the problems.”

When we were allowed to re-stock in August we brought back the hogs3 and some cattle away at keep. I went to Weardale, County Durham and bought Swaledale breeding ewes and lambs. I had bought there before and I knew animals raised there would quickly acclimatise as the management, ground and weather conditions were similar to Dartmoor.

I also managed to buy back rams I had bred and sold so that my own bloodline could run on into the recently purchased ewes.’

Today they sell both ewe lambs and rams for breeding, other lambs are bought by a Cullompton couple with access to good grazing. Some go to Jasper’s Abattoir for meat and Layland is not the only farmer who regrets the demise of the local abattoir. It is becoming an accepted fact that the stress of a long journey from farm to abattoir greatly affects meat quality, something which even the supermarkets are beginning to realise. Dartmoor farmers use Lang’s at Ashburton or Jasper’s at Launceston, but Layland feels that another in Tavistock would not come amiss.

To rebuild his cattle herd Layland began with Aberdeen Angus cross Friesians once again with an Angus

bull, but he was soon on his way north again, this time to Yorkshire, to buy a ‘stabiliser’ bull bred under registered trademark by a group of Yorkshire farmers. The Americans had spent 30 years developing this animal, bringing together the eating qualities of Hereford and Angus, the size of body and shape of the Simmental and the easy maturing, easy calving of the Gelbvieh, the German equivalent of the South Devon. Layland had become keenly interested in this animal and the superior eating carcass it produced.

To Gillian’s dismay its purchase took priority over the money saved to buy chairs to match their enormous kitchen table. Farmers’ wives are renowned for their stoical approach to such sacrifices, and neither of them has ever regretted buying this bull.

The production of suckler calves had provided the main income from their cattle. In the main, Dartmoor grass does not have the richness required to ‘finish’ an animal for the beef market, but they began sending bullocks from the stabiliser herd off the moor to be fattened and today top-quality beef producton has provided another source of income.

Their outlet, in addition to selling meat to friends and family, is Warren’s Butchers in Launceston who market

meat from small local farms including their own. The farm of origin is always on display outside the shop and it was a delighted farmer and his wife who noted the queue outside and in when their meat was on sale.

‘It gave us a sense of total satisfaction,’ said Layland.

‘Surprisingly it was two years before we actually ate some ourselves and we found its eating quality was superior to anything we had tasted – even the Angus cross South Devon. Nowadays I usually plumb for seafood if we eat out.’

During the shortening autumn days the rams are put in with the ewes to enable the annual cycle of life to begin again – a time for hoping that any new rams aren’t duds and that the springtime lambs will match the number expected. Bags of marking ink are strapped to the rams’ bellies, one colour for the first fortnight and another for the second, the different colours indicating when each ewe was served, enabling the farmer to determine when she will lamb. At this time too the sheep and cattle sales begin; time must be spent inspecting all the stock, making the decisions as to which should be sold and at what price, plus feeding them up a bit in preparation for market.

‘Buying and selling stock gives me a buzz,’ admitted Layland. ‘I’m not

Contented cows in a Dartmoor landscape

24 DARTMOOR

HILL FARMING

Twins or triplets?

a top-flight guy who makes a lot of money but I like to show people the quality of what we are producing.

It is competitive in a way and very satisfying when sales reflect on what we have done.’

From late autumn scanning begins in earnest, a skill which has provided the family with additional income over the years and many friends as well. With the ewe secured in a small pen, Layland is able to run the scanning device over her belly and the contents of the womb are shown on a screen in front of him. Those carrying a single lamb are marked on the shoulder, those carrying twins on the back and those with triplets are marked nearer the tail. With all the marks carried by each ewe the farmer knows instantly how to feed and treat each animal at lambing time.

Life has changed over the last few years for both Layland and his wife.

William and Laura are working away from home and Emily will soon be away too, studying land management and chartered surveying at the Royal Agricultural College at Cirencester.

Four years ago Gillian qualified as a teacher in modern languages at secondary school level, but she has become more involved in the general running of the farm outdoors and all the paperwork. Farming itself has changed considerably, but Layland’s involvement with farming organisations such as the NFU, National Sheep Association and the Dartmoor Commoners Council (where he is now Vice Chairman) have kept him in close touch with these changes.

Layland goes to Tavistock Market

‘Looking after sheep and cattle is easy. The difficult part is knowing what is likely to happen in five years time,’ were his words of cautious wisdom.

Layland has an extensive section of the River Dart under his management. Anyone who wishes to fish here requires a Duchy licence to do so, but the quality of the water is very important to fish stocks and is often judged by the numbers of kingfishers, water voles and otters who inhabit the banks. He knows they are present but if the experts don’t find them when they do their study, he and his livestock could be blamed as the run-off from animals grazing nearby fields can add unwanted nitrates to the water.

Rarely taken into consideration is the effect caused by the increasing amount of Western gorse on the moor which is an equal culprit as it takes nitrogen from the air and expels it through its roots into the soil and subsequently into the river.

‘I have managed to keep the farm well swaled which reduces the populations of ticks and keeps the vegetation low so that I can manage my animals with dogs and a quad bike. Out on the moor, neither man nor livestock can roam at will in some places, they are channelled through the increasingly muddy, eroded trackways because of the density of vegetation,’ Layland told me, and understanding his knowledge of animals, wildlife included, and his concern for the countryside, I asked his opinion on the proposed badger cull.

‘We need to cull selectively – diseased badgers only. Farmers should

be licensed to deal with their own setts seeking the advice of someone like a farmer and countryman I know who has studied the problem thoroughly and is able to recognise by examining the setts and their surrounds whether sick badgers are present. If he assesses a sett with a major problem the badgers in that sett could then be culled and the sett left open so that sick badgers, who are often ostracised by their fellows, can occupy the empty sett, thus drawing them to one place where they are easily dealt with. This system works and with three presently healthy setts on my land, I wouldn’t hesitate to call him in if I thought I had a problem.

‘I treasure all that I have on this place – badgers, foxes, all the wildlife, and I want to keep a healthy population of all of it. I also consider that I am the best-placed person to decide what is right for my land.’

On a beautiful Dartmoor day I admired the view from a gate overlooking the steep field down to the Dart. Across the river Layland whistled command calls to his dogs as they skilfully manoeuvred a bunch of Swaledale ewes around the Prince Hall fields. He may murmur about the aches and pains that come with getting older but to me, watching him work with his animals, he is as he has always been – a man completely in his element. ■ 1 The progeny of upland ewes sired by lowland rams are called ‘mules’ 2 Known as hybrid vigour 3 A ewe (yearling) who has not had a lamb

DARTMOOR 25

NORTH BOVEY, DARTMOOR TQ13 8RB

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Open 11.00am – 11.00pm daily Tel: 01647 440375 E: mail@ringofbells.net W: www.ringofbells.net

Badgers Holt at Dartmeet, Princetown, Devon PL20 6SG

THE MOST FAMOUS TEAROOMS ON THE MOOR Badger’s Holt, a former fishing lodge, provides an idyllic Dartmoor setting for morning coffee, hot and cold snacks, lunch, three course meal or just a relaxing drink by the river.

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HISTORY

The Parish Boundary Stones of Dartmoor Part 1 North WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS TIM JENKINSON

Ever since his original work on the study of boundary markers in 1985–6, Dave Brewer (DB) has inspired a succession of Dartmoor enthusiasts, myself included, to seek out various inscribed stones that are dotted across the landscape, adding greatly to the enjoyment of walking. Whereas the specific dating of some stones is difficult as they may be centuries old, others will have been set up more recently in the mid-to-late 19th century, and there are examples of some being re-cut and reset much later, well into the 20th century and beyond in the new millennium.

This, the first of a two-part article, with reference to the extensive work of DB, examines the continuing existence of a selection of some the more interesting parish boundary stones in the northern part of Dartmoor. The second article will examine some stones from parishes in the south.

Helen Harris (2004) describes a parish as ‘the area around’ a central church; it is essentially a unit of responsibility for habitation and adjoining land. A parish is also associated with the people who live there, the community within, living under the pastoral care of a parish priest. A walk across Dartmoor can often take the visitor from one parish into another and on occasions the point of changeover is marked by a sturdy boundary stone or natural boulder that is usually inscribed with letters pertaining to the parishes concerned. DB (2002) states that there are no less than 22 different parishes that extend into the central Forest of Dartmoor (see pages 14–17). In addition to these he highlights certain other ‘in venville’ parishes such as Meavy, Sampford Spiney, Whitchurch, Tavistock and Mary Tavy as ‘lying within the purlieus of the Forest’ and thereby enjoying the same privileges.

Peter Tavy: (top) P stone, Picket Rock SX 541762; (above) PBT stone, Batteridge Hill SX 508762

DARTMOOR 27

HISTORY

Belstone

Old A30 BB stone SX 657931

The parish church of St Mary stands central to the North Dartmoor village of Belstone, and the perimeters of the parish extend southwards out on the open moor. Chris and Marion Walpole (2002) in The Book of Belstone explain that the area covered by the parish is roughly triangular in shape and extends for 2.7 square miles. At various points to the south of the village the boundary is marked by stones that are inscribed in the main with ‘BB’ for Belstone Bounds.

One stands near the top of Lady Brook (Ordnance Survey ‘Ivy Tor Water’) on the left-hand bank going down at SX 626926, whilst others can be seen at Taw Marsh (SX 618909) and just below Higher Tor at SX 612915 where two Belstone markers, one old and one more recent, stand alongside a relatively new ‘OPB’ stone for Okehampton.

A new millennium stone was erected in 2000 near to the footbridge over the River Taw east of the village at SX 621933, illustrating that the trend of marking out boundaries continues in the 21st century. In 2007 I reported upon the discovery of a previously unrecorded marker inscribed with ‘BB’ at the roadside on the old A30 east of Sticklepath near to the five-mile point from Okehampton (SX 657931). This stone presumably once marked the eastern extremity of the old Belstone parish and had lain hidden in vegetation for decades.

Gidleigh Gidleigh is a small and rather remote parish with nonetheless a picturesque church and a considerable collection of boundary stones extending southward to the North Teign river inscribed with either a single ‘G’ or ‘GP’. Beating the bounds is a septennial feature of the village taking inhabitants old and young out over the open moor to each of the stones that run from Teigncombe Gate at SX 667872 and Cow Bridge (SX 662 865) south to the Longstone (SX 660856), and then from here west to Stone Tor (SX 648856) and Manga Rock (SX 636858), before heading north via Hawthorn Clitter (SX 632861) to The Thurlestone on Watern Tor (SX 629868). From here the boundary extends north to Wild Tor Well (SX 627876) and then curves north east to Gallaven (Gartaven) Ford via Headon Hill at SX 635886 where a large flat boulder is inscribed with another at the top of Rue Lake Pit (SX 639887), both of which are shown as ‘boundary rocks’ on OS Explorer 28. From here to the north the parish of Throwleigh extends complete with its own inscribed stones, some of which are described below and are occasionally dual marked with the Gidleigh ‘G’.

GP stone, Teigncombe Gate SX 667972

TP stone, Raybarrow Pool SX 640900

28 DARTMOOR

Throwleigh Not unlike its neighbouring parish of Gidleigh the parishioners of Throwleigh seemed very keen to ensure that the boundary to the west of the village was well marked out with stones bearing the initials ‘T’ or ‘TP’ in the mid-19th century. Several natural boulders can still be found along the line of the parish territory, but there are two tall markers on the southern edge of the remote and treacherous Raybarrow Pool that mark the point where both the Throwleigh and South Tawton parishes begin and end (SX 640900). Writing in 2002 DB advises that the South Tawton stone (inscribed with a large ‘ST’) had only been resurrected in relatively recent times, having lain prone for many years.

Other Throwleigh stones can be found on Kennon Hill, to the west at White Moor Stone (SX 633894) that is also inscribed with ‘ST’; and then south of Hound Tor via another marker to Wild Tor at SX 623876 where ‘TP’ appears on the main stack; east to Wild Tor Well (SX 625875) where two stones are so marked; and then up to the northeast to Headon Hill where the stone atop at SX 631880 (that is strangely not shown on OS maps) marks the Gidleigh/Throwleigh boundary and it is also inscribed with a ‘DC’ for the Duchy of Cornwall. Further detailed commentary on all of these stones along with others and their locations can be found on pages 48–72 of Dartmoor Boundary Markers by Dave Brewer (2002) as referenced opposite.

HISTORY

Okehampton Hamlets Perhaps the best collection of all surviving parish stones on Dartmoor indicate the boundary of the West Devon town of Okehampton. In addition to the many small villages and hamlets within the parish, it also extends for a considerable distance into the open moor to the south of the town, including the two highest points of Yes Tor and High Willhays. In his 2002 publication DB recounts a ‘beating the bounds’ walk by parishioners covering various boundary points, some of which are marked by inscribed stones (pages 180–3). Thanks greatly to his descriptions of the stones we now know of several points where the letters ‘OP/B’ (Okehampton Parish Boundary) appear. Twin stones, one older and smaller than its late-19th-century replacement alongside, can still be seen close to the bridge at Cullever Steps (SX 605921), higher up the hill at Harter Corner (SX 601919) and at Middle Ford (SX 598912). Near to the stones at Harter Corner is a small Lydford marker inscribed with a simple ‘L’ on the bank of the Black-A-Ven Brook at SX 600919.

Tall granite pillars that are similarly inscribed with ‘OP/B’ stand on Rowtor Ridge (SX 596908), this one however having the three letters on different faces; there is another above and to the west of New Bridge at SX 594902; one to the west of Curtery Clitters at SX 590896; and a fourth at a rather remote spot at SX 587891. Two natural rocks have been used to the south of High Willhays on Dinger Ridge (SX 582885) and on the lower slopes between Fordsland Ledge and Lints Tor, known as Outer Dinger, the former being a huge rounded boulder (shown as ‘B Rock’ on OS maps), whilst the latter is a tall upright rock.

The boundary ends down at Sandy Ford on the West Okement river. Other modest and more recently set boundary stones stand at Henry’s Ford on the East Okement (SX 606910) and alongside the aforementioned dual Belstone markers to the south of the lone outcrop below Higher Tor.

OPB stones, Cullever Steps SX 605921

Peter Tavy The parish of Peter Tavy extends for some distance into the open moor, mainly to the south and east of the village, and the boundary is periodically marked with often natural stones that are mostly inscribed with a simple ‘P’. The boundary of the parish is also marked by at least three roadside stones at the top of Batteridge Hill (SX 508762), at the entrance to Collaton Farm (SX 512752), and near Moorshop on the north side of the B3357 at SX 510746. This latter stone was badly damaged by verge-cutting machinery in late 2010 and subsequently went missing. It was recently discovered lying in a nearby ditch, having slid down the bank, and DNPA have agreed to reinstate the marker.

The stone on Batteridge Hill is inscribed with ‘P/B/T’, presumably marking the boundaries of Tavistock and Brentor, whereas the others are inscribed with ‘P’ and ‘W’ to differentiate between the parish and that of Whitchurch. On the open moor DB advises that there are other stones similarly inscribed: one at Beckamoor Head (SX 534759) known as ‘Flat Rock’ or ‘Black Rock; another at ‘Picke’ or ‘Picket Rock’, a large natural rounded boulder on the northwest slopes of Great Staple Tor at SX 541762; and between this tor and Roos Tor another ‘P/W’ stone stands in the dip between (SX 543763). In his account DB also refers to an inscribed marker on the bank of the dry Wheal Fortune Leat near to the wall of Shillapark Farm at SX 548763. Another natural rock leaning against a wall corner above Higher Godsworthy Farm at SX 529768 is inscribed with a ‘P’ on the side facing into the road. ■

References Brewer, D. (2002) Dartmoor Boundary Markers: and other markers on and around the moor Halsgrove Tiverton Devon Harris, H. (2004) A Handbook of Devon Parishes: A complete guide for local and family historians Halsgrove Tiverton Devon Jenkinson, T. (2007) ‘Belstone Boundary Stone Query’ Dartmoor Magazine no 87 Walpole, C. and Walpole, M. (2002) The Book of Belstone: words and images of a Dartmoor village Okehampton Devon

B3357 Moorshop SX 510746

Beating the Bounds Belstone 1 June 2014 (every seven years) Gidleigh August Bank Holiday Monday 2018 (every seven years) Okehampton Hamlets 2015 (every five years) Throwleigh August Bank Holiday Monday 2012 (every seven years)

DARTMOOR 29

Mutiny

on the Moor 1932 WORDS SIMON DELL PHOTOGRAPHS SIMON DELL COLLECTION

The 24th of January 2012 sees the 80th anniversary of one of the most notorious incidents in the history of the British penal system – the Dartmoor Mutiny

HISTORY

D

artmoor Prison has always had the unenviable reputation of being one of the most famous prisons in the world on account of almost 200 years of – sometimes chequered – history.

The years that followed the First World War saw immense social change in Great Britain, and the depression of the 1920s became a breeding ground for a different sort of criminal. The new name given to this gangster was the ‘motor car bandit’.

Gone were the days more suited to the felonious occupation of the footpads and ‘Charlie Peaces’ [a clever and notorious mid-19th-century burglar] of the world, and in came ruthless young men with little or no regard for the lives of their victims. They came from a generation of young men who had spent the best part of their lives carrying firearms in the trenches and taking part in meticulously considered raids on the enemy.

From the early 1920s the discipline at Dartmoor Prison increased severely, imposed by the new governor, Mr Stanley Norton Roberts, who was most unpopular and imposed changes that were disliked and caused tension amongst inmates and staff alike.

With disquiet amongst the inmates, and complaints being made regularly about anything and everything, it was hardly surprising that there was a protest about the state of the porridge at breakfast time on Friday 22 January.

It seemed that an excess of water had been added to the porridge vat, as its consistency was described as being like ‘water with grains floating about in it’.

That afternoon Prison Officer Ernest Birch was on duty, and at the end of the working day he gave the usual order for the men to ‘fall out’; but he was immediately pounced upon by one prisoner, Thomas Davis, who slashed Birch’s face. Davis was eventually subdued and removed to the Punishment Block (E Hall) to be dealt with by the governor at a later hearing.

Just after midnight Governor Roberts went into the prison kitchen to inspect the porridge that was being prepared for breakfast later that morning – Saturday 23 January.

After finding it to be acceptable and in good order he went away with high hopes that the unfortunate events of

The Administration Block destroyed

the previous day could be put behind them. Unfortunately it was discovered in the morning that the porridge had apparently been subjected to some mischievous ‘doctoring’, and it was suspected that someone working in the kitchen had added water to make it inedible.

At the planned Church service later that morning the governor spoke with the intention of addressing the prisoners and to explain the situation, but was shouted down.

The following morning, Sunday 24 January, the governor arrived at the prison at 5am to check the porridge and found that the contents of one vat was perfect, but that of another was watery and had clearly been tampered with again. Not surprisingly, he then became very worried and called in as many staff as he could muster.

It was then that an incident occurred that provided the spark to ignite the powder keg, which had been ready to explode for several days.

Another Prison Officer – Udy – was slashed with a bladed weapon. He was taken to the Prison Hospital for treatment, then came out back on duty to supervise exercise in the yards.

When he called the prisoners to form up they revolted. Udy attempted to reason with the rioting prisoners, but to no avail. Instead, the ringleaders ordered several convicts to make their way to the rest of the parade grounds and to stir up their ‘colleagues’ to revolt against the guards there.

The result was that about 50 or so rioting convicts rushed off to A, C and D parade grounds, from where

other prisoners would have heard the commotion and realised that the revolt was under way.

Some of the marauding prisoners focused their attention on the Punishment Block (E Hall), intending to storm it and release confined prisoners, including Davis who had slashed Officer Birch’s face on the previous Friday. The mob succeeded in snatching Officer Tucker’s keys, so was then able to unlock the doors of the cells in E Hall and complete the ‘mission’.

Whilst this was taking place Gate Officer Dowse, on duty at the main gates, saw what was happening and just after 9.30am telephoned Plymouth City Police to inform them that the convicts had started a mutiny and to ask for reinforcements.

He also requested that the Devon Constabulary be informed and to send help. He then telephoned Crownhill Barracks in Plymouth, where the 8th Infantry Brigade (which included members of the 1st Battalion of the Worcestershire Regiment) was stationed, also asking for help.

The prison Administration Block was well alight when a ladder was put up against the governor’s office window and convicts broke in, shouting that they were out to kill him. The governor and his deputy managed to escape and made their way to an old building, known as one of the ‘French prisons’, where they hid for the duration of the mutiny.

The Chief Constable of Plymouth City Police gave orders for every available man to be transported up DARTMOOR 31

HISTORY

Dartmoor Prison on fire, seen from the air

Police officers from Plymouth after quelling the riot

to Princetown to assist in quelling the mutiny. Major Morris, the Chief Constable of the Devon Constabulary, gave similar orders.

When the reinforcements of the 1st Battalion of the Worcestershire Regiment arrived in their ageing lorries, loaded with infantry, rifles and two machine-guns, they were not directed into the prison; instead, they were positioned just outside to contain the perimeter wall in order to prevent escapes. One account from a soldier responsible for one of the machineguns records that he was situated with his machine-gun covering the entrance to the jail; he was instructed that should a mass break-out take place then he was to ‘Let them have it’.

A few of the more violent prisoners were focused on one thing only – the wholesale slaughter of the guards. They armed themselves with stolen ‘weapons’ from the butchery and workshops, or carried bed legs embedded with glass, and went on to attack anyone, including other prisoners, who stood in their way. The 32 DARTMOOR

Prison officer bandaged and returning to work

carnage continued until the prisoners had complete control of the interior of the prison.

The police officers arrived at the main prison gates and entered under the command of the Chief Constable.

Police truncheons were wielded to left and right, leaving convicts lying on the ground in the officers’ wake.

By 1pm all was over with the exception of the fire-fighting efforts being carried out by the Plymouth Fire Brigade, whose main aim was to save the Administration Block. It can only be regarded as a miracle that nobody was killed and no prisoners escaped.

Following the riot the Home Secretary ordered a Commission of Enquiry to be led by Herbert du Parcq KC, who went to great lengths to uncover the reasons for the mutiny

and the events surrounding it. Because of the unsuitability of Tavistock Court the magistrates went to the prison, where the cases were later formally opened and adjourned to be heard at a special court held at the local Duchy Hall in Princetown village, which was being equipped for the subsequent trials. The assize court was presided over by the Right Honourable Justice William Viscount Finlay KBE, one of the justices of the King’s Bench Division of the High Court of Justice.

It took the jury five hours to reach their verdict. Twenty-three convicts were found guilty of various offences, including riotous assembly and malicious damage, but 10 were found not guilty. Prisoners received sentences ranging from 6 months to 12 years for the man convicted of injuring Officer Birch. In all, Mr Justice Finlay passed sentences on 13 May 1932 totalling a few months short of 100 years.

The mutiny on 24 January 1932 might, unwittingly, have been one of the most progressive events to take place at the prison. As a result of the rioting, conditions for prisoners were closely scrutinised, work allocations were reviewed, wages were paid for work, and penal systems were updated. Perhaps the overall benefits enjoyed by successive inmates who followed those ‘motor car bandits’ of yesteryear might well be regarded as the phoenix rising from the ashes. ■ The full story of the events of 24 January 1932 can be read in Simon Dell’s book Mutiny on the Moor, available in local book shops as well as through www.simondell.co.uk

Princetown Duchy Hall, location of the temporary court

HISTORY

A Princetown Warder’s Tale Anthony Greenstreet provides some background to the riot of 1932

I

n 1938 The Book Club published Men in Cages, an account of prison life – especially for Dartmoor – by H.U. Triston, a prison warder in the 1920s and 1930s.

It is remarkable for his vivid and critical description of a regime which now seems unbearably harsh, but which was also starting to make some humanitarian reforms.

The book opens on a discouraging note, ‘In the course of an eventful life, during which I have wandered in many parts of the world, I cannot recall a more depressing place than Princetown… When I stepped from the train there on an autumn afternoon and found the place drenched in mist, I was strongly inclined to return to my home at once.

But I had accepted the post of warder, so I walked on up the hill.’ He found the prison, although able to house 800, held only 300 or 400 prisoners, all of the ‘Recidivist Class’ – that is, men with several previous convictions. He found, too, a prison administration in which informers played an important part: ‘…indeed, I don’t think it would be possible to run our jails without them’.

Triston’s account of prisoners’ working parties sent out to reclaim parts of the Moor exposed the deadening character of much of their employment. Much time was spent counting the prisoners before they left the prison gate, and again once they were outside it. Then, headed by a warder armed with a revolver and mounted on a pony, flanked by warders carrying ancient carbines, with another mounted warder in the rear, and finally a warder with a portable telephone, the column of paired prisoners set out for the area of bog to be reclaimed. The carbines were largely for show, since they were only to be loaded in an emergency. Any first shot was to be aimed wide, and subsequent shots at the legs: the carbines only fired buckshot, and had a range of a mere 40 yards. During the hour-long tramp to the work site discipline was relaxed, and prisoners and warders chatted. Once arrived there the warder with the phone connected it to a telegraph pole, and the prisoners dug for about 10 minutes before taking a breather. Later, at about 11 o’clock, the men started the tramp back to the prison for a one-and-a-half-hour dinner break. The process was repeated again in the afternoon, with only three or four hours’ work being done each day.

Sometimes these outings were enlivened by fights between two prisoners. The others then formed an excited circle round the combatants – surrounded by an outer circle of warders. The chief warder would stop the fight when one man was seen to be getting worsted, and both combatants would be later awarded three days’ solitary confinement on bread and water. If fog came down during work the portable phone alerted the prison to send out an

additional escorting party. To protect them from the rain warders had rubber mackintoshes and leggings; but, apart from their ordinary serge clothing, prisoners had only a redand-blue-striped overall coat known as a ‘slop’.

If it was too wet for outside work the prisoners were sent to stone sheds. There, seated at long benches, they pounded a block of granite until it was broken into pieces suitable for road-making. In winter the shed was heated only by a coke fire, and men were allowed to walk up and down for 10 minutes to restore circulation. In these circumstances ‘inside’ jobs in the kitchens or bakehouse were much sought after; and prisoners could apply for a change of occupation after doing a job for three months.

Cancellation of this privilege was one cause of the great prison mutiny of 1932. It had originally been the rule that strict silence must be maintained in indoor workrooms; but the Prison Commissioners had since ruled that prisoners could talk to the same extent as workers employed in ‘wellregulated factories’. However, as most warders had an army or navy background, and had never worked in a factory, this guidance was of little practical help.

The domestic life of prisoners was characterised by hunger, cold (the only heat was from a primitive cokeburning stove in the centre of each hall), and general discomfort. Men with short sentences were issued with already part-worn clothes; clean washing was issued with the weekly bath; bed linen was changed once a month; and coconut fibre mattresses were ‘loosened up’ and remade every three months. Ounces of cheese and margarine were commonly used as betting currency. Men could smoke in their cells, but not carry tobacco in their pockets.

There was some softening of the regime for men who had been in prison for a long time and whose conduct was satisfactory. They were allowed on alternate nights to stroll for an hour in the prison garden in summer, or to play dominoes, draughts or chess in a recreation room in winter: cards were forbidden. They could have a newspaper sent in once a week. After four years’ imprisonment men gained an allowance of half-a-crown [12½p] a month, which increased by 6d to a maximum of 5 shillings [25p] after nine years. They could not handle the cash, but were credited with the money with local tradesmen supplying goods.

Triston’s book ends with many suggestions for prison reform which have long since been implemented. But on Dartmoor Prison he was uncompromising: ‘I say without the slightest hesitation, and with as much emphasis as I can command, that this old prison should be closed. Whatever advantage it may have had as a penal settlement 50 or 60 years ago, it has none now. Those old buildings, those insanitary blocks with their dark cells, those depressing exercise yards – the whole prison, in fact, shrieks aloud for destruction. Apart from that, the moor itself, with its dense fogs, its knee-deep snow in winter, its torrential rain, is not a fit place for human beings.’ If, however, the prison should be kept ‘the least that could be done would be to erase that inscription “Parcere Subjectis” from the stonework over the gate… There is no mercy to the convicts who are there… the inscription should be replaced by something more appropriate. I suggest one word – “Forgotten”.’ ■ DARTMOOR 33

HISTORY

William Morris

and Devon Great Consols

Mine

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS ROBERT HESKETH

The largest mine in Devon, Devon Great Consols lies at Blanchdown between Gulworthy and Gunnislake on the Devon bank of the Tamar. Start from Tamar Trails car park (signed from the A390 SX 439729) and explore the signed trails. Please keep to paths, observe signs and avoid shafts, adits and open excavations. The old buildings themselves are potentially dangerous and there is extensive arsenic contamination. Information plaques, waymarks and maps are on site and a new information centre is planned for 2012 (contact Tamar Valley AONB, tel: (01822) 835030 www.tamarvalley.org.uk for more information).

W

illiam Morris, the eminent Victorian poet, artist, preRaphaelite, designer and socialist was closely associated with Devon Great Consols mines, both through his family and personally as a shareholder and later a director. Morris’s father and his two uncles had invested early and heavily in Devon Great Consols (DGC). When the incredibly rich Tamar Valley copper lodes were discovered in 1844, the family became very wealthy.

At its peak, DGC was the world’s leading copper and arsenic producer and yielded enormous dividends 34 DARTMOOR

Chimney at Wheal Anna Maria

to its investors. Mine shares that originally sold for £1 fetched £800 six months later and William Morris’s family’s fortune reached over £200,000 – a stupendous sum at that time.

William duly inherited shares when he came of age in 1855, drawing an annual income of over £700 without lifting a finger for it at a time when DGC miners might earn £20 to £25 per year if they were lucky (and that was the men; large numbers of women and children employed by DGC earned far less). Not surprisingly there were periodic strikes at the mines, usually defeated by drafting in labour from

west Cornwall.

Copper and arsenic were mined together at DGC. Between opening in 1844 and 1878, when the copper was exhausted, the mine produced 622,000 tons of copper ore, worth £3.15 million, besides iron pyrites and over 17,000 tons of arsenic.

The Duke of Bedford, on whose land DGC stood, scooped £270,000 during this period and the mine paid nearly a million pounds in dividends.

At its peak DGC employed over 1000 people in five large mines (the numbers quoted by different authorities vary from 1100 to 1300).

The first discoveries of copper were made at Wheal Maria, and the

HISTORY lode was so rich it was mined faster than it could be moved on. Thus a mineral railway to Morwellham Quay was built and facilities constructed there to handle it.

Wheal Emma (named after Morris’s mother) and further mines were opened, including a deep shaft called ‘Morris’s Engine Shaft’ after his uncle, Thomas Morris, resident DGC Director.

Arsenic production enabled DGC to keep working on a large scale for over 20 more years after the copper yield slumped, and its arsenic works were the most extensive in the world. It was well known even then that arsenic is highly poisonous, dangerous to all who worked with it and highly damaging to the local environment. Even though substantial mining at DGC ceased over 100 years ago and despite later forestation the mining scars remain, along with the ruins of arsenic processing works, mine dumps and tailings from ore processing.

Capitalist interests in a dirty, dangerous and exploitative industry conflicted with Morris’s art and his love of the natural world. They were also at odds with his Gothic romanticism and his later socialist convictions – but he appears to have long accepted or simply ignored these contradictions.

Professor Andy Meharg of Aberdeen University discovered Morris’s first wallpaper design was contaminated with copper arsenic salt used to create green dye. He described Morris as ‘a man of his time... whose fortune was based on some of the most polluting mines in Britain’ in a lecture at Kelmscott House, Tavistock, in November 2010. Meharg was also quoted in The Independent (12 June, 2003) as saying: ‘There is no doubt William Morris was a utopian idealist whose life was full of contradictions. He was a progenitor of the green movement and decried the environmental and human degradation caused by industrial activity. But he was also a successful capitalist who supplied the bourgeoisie with expensive interior décor.’

Morris’s background and artistic career were both comfortably removed from the Tamar Valley mines. He was born in 1834 in Walthamstow, then a village beyond London on the edge of Epping Forest. Young William’s passion for medieval romance began early: he had read all Sir Walter Scott’s Waverley novels by the age of nine, when his father gave him a pony and a miniature suit of armour.

At Exeter College, Oxford, Morris fell in love with medieval art and architecture. He began writing poetry and planned a clerical career, but abandoned that ambition after a tour of French Gothic cathedrals with Edward Burne-Jones convinced him his true vocation was art. Through Burne-Jones he met other leading pre-Raphaelites, including Philip Webb, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Charles Algernon Swinburne. Morris had discovered his artistic milieu.

At 25, Morris married Rossetti’s model, Jane Burden, and commissioned Philip Webb to design the Red House in London for them.

Morris and his associates decorated and furnished the house themselves in full-blown medieval fashion, designing stained-glass windows, painting murals, weaving tapestries and designing textiles.

Morris, Marshall, Faulkner and Company was formed the year the Red House was completed, 1861.

Rossetti, Burne-Jones and Webb were among the founder members. Morris began his seminal wallpaper designs for the company whilst working on his long poem The Earthly Paradise.

Meanwhile, life for miners at Devon Great Consols was somewhat short of paradise and Morris’s marriage, after the first few happy years when daughters Jenny and May were born, was running into trouble. Part of the marital problem may have been a lack of understanding: Jane’s working-class background was very different from her husband’s. She and Rossetti began a long-running affair during the mid-1860s.

Although both Morris’s marriage and his friendship with Rossetti survived after a fashion, the affair

Chimney at Devon Great Consols

Flat bed hearth for roasting arsenic, Wheal Anna Maria

Arsenic mill, Wheal Anna Maria

DARTMOOR 35

HISTORY

Rusting industrial machinery

Calciner kilns at Wheal Anna Maria

Mountain biking at Devon Great Consols

36 DARTMOOR

was a heavy disappointment. Morris buried himself in his designs, withdrawing further from the troubled world around him in a new poem, The Life and Death of Jason and translations of Icelandic sagas.

The heroic past, whether medieval, Viking or Greek held a powerful imaginative appeal for Morris, yet he did not entirely lose sight of present life in a raw industrial society with enormous discrepancies in wealth and privilege.

Despite his background (or perhaps because of it), William Morris was increasingly drawn to socialism.

Political activity occupied much of his later life.

Conflicts of loyalties and interests, sensibilities and beliefs, encouraged William Morris to sell his shares and resign his lucrative DGC directorship in 1876. The funds realised enabled him to buy out his partners in the wallpaper business and establish (under his own leadership) Morris and Co., a leading producer of beautifully designed and crafted papers.

By 1883, the mature Morris was reading Karl Marx’s Das Kapital and declared himself a Socialist.

He wrote to his friend and fellow Socialist, Charles Edmund Maurice, that he was ‘ashamed of his own position’. He wrote further of capitalism as ‘a system of robbery and injustice’ and stated ‘I am bound to act for the destruction of the system which seems to me mere oppression and obstruction.’

That same year, 1883, Exeter College Oxford made Morris an honorary fellow. He accepted this compliment from the Establishment, but went on to write Art and Socialism.

He also co-authored A Summary of the Principles of Socialism and lectured on street corners. In 1884, Morris founded the Socialist League and produced Useful Work versus Useless Toil and Chants for Socialists.

No doubt these would have been apt publications for DGC miners suffering from ‘arsenic pock’ and dying prematurely from arsenicrelated conditions, despite their rather pathetic attempts to protect

themselves by stuffing their noses and ears with cotton and smearing their skins with oil. However, letters written by Morris to his dye manufacturer in 1885 and found

by Professor Meharg indicate he had a cavalier attitude: ‘As to the arsenic scare, a greater folly is hardly possible to imagine... Of course, it is proving too much to prove that the Nicholsons [customers] were poisoned by the wallpapers; for if they were, a great number of people would be in the same plight and we should be sure to hear of it.’

Over a century later and after a plethora of Health and Safety legislation, William Morris’s attitude seems callously laissez-faire. ‘He seems to have had a blasé attitude to health concerns,’ Professor Meharg continued in the Independent article.

‘But we cannot be too hard on Morris; he was a product of his time.’

In sum, William Morris was a man of contradictions. A greatly talented poet, designer and artist, he was in love with an idealised, Romantic vision of the medieval past – a vision he shared with many contemporary artists and poets, including Tennyson and Rossetti. At the same time, he enjoyed the life of a wealthy Victorian capitalist whilst holding a utopian socialist vision for the future. ■

The ground at Wheal Anna Maria is littered with minerals

Thanks to Tim Selman, Manager of Tamar Valley AONB and Paul White, author of Shortish Walks in the Tamar Valley (Bossiney Books 2011) for their help with this article.

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GEOLOGY

Understanding the Dartmoor Landscape Part 4 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS RICHARD HORSHAM

The Destruction of Tors – Instability and Abrupt Change A common characteristic amongst the many different forms of tors, which have been mainly determined by subsurface weathering, is that now they all appear to be in a state of collapse and demolition. There is unmistakable evidence of this in the boulder piles, parted blocks, shattered rocks, uneven and toppled stacks, and often a general disarray of granite blocks on and near the main structure of the tor.

This article examines the different types of collapsed features found on tors and offers some explanation for their origin and cause. These formations are the consequence of long periods of weathering, both sub-surface and above ground, where the structure and strength of the granite is reduced to a critical situation and incipient unstable state. If this threshold is exceeded then sudden and abrupt change may happen, for example an upstanding stack topples, or a top core stone overbalances, slides off its base and pushes away a lower block. From one state of stability to another may take only moments to happen, yet the result is a significant modification of, and change to, the tor.

Understanding this idea of threshold in the landscape context helps to explain an important and hitherto little-appreciated process in the destruction of tors.

38 DARTMOOR

Logan stones – The Nutcracker, Rippon Tor SX 743753

The Nutcracker, Rippon Tor: (above) before toppling; (below) after toppling

The logan stone is an isolated block sitting in a precariously balanced position on a lower block or fulcrum, and is easily moved.

This rocking The shattered remains of action is not the Nutcracker always along the length of the stone; Shelstone Tor’s (SX 557897) logan stone rocks sideways quite easily as weight is transferred from foot to foot. No matter how much effort is put into rocking it lengthways, like a seesaw, it will not move.

Logan stones are the best examples of threshold features. The name refers to its logging or rocking tendency, which is as close to instability as it is possible to

find. There are numerous references to destroyed logan stones. Hemery1 reports that: ‘…mischievous hands many years ago toppled the Nutcracker. According to Baring-Gould this occurred by degrees.’

Baring-Gould was writing in 19002, and 50 years prior to this Rowe noted that ‘Its logging power appears to have been destroyed, in some unpardonable frolic, from mere wantonness.’3. The postcard view was taken in the early 1900s, the stone toppled in 1971. It was approximately 4.7m long, 1.82m wide, by 1.2m deep, and weighed about 16.5 tons.4 It now lies in three pieces, in a hollow between the fulcrum stone and the tor.

All of the known logan stones that have been overbalanced and toppled (for example one of Roos Tor’s logan stones was damaged by workmen5), have apparently been destroyed by ‘prevalent vandalism’.6 Whether or not this is true, it is a fact that the lot of the logan stone is to fail, exceed its threshold and to topple. This is due to aeons of weathering leaving one small contact area between two blocks.

Surprisingly there are many logan stones on Dartmoor, and many perched blocks that may eventually begin to rock and topple in their turn; one such is near to Bowerman’s Nose, at SX 743804.

References 1

2

3

4

5 6

Hemery, E. 1983 High Dartmoor Robert Hale p687 Baring-Gould, S. 1982 Re-issue of 1900 edition A Book of Dartmoor Rowe, S. 1848 A Perambulation of the Ancient & Royal Forest of Dartmoor Hamilton, Adams & Co. p139 Note: Rowe has different dimensions for the Nutcracker between the first and third edition of his book Baring-Gould, S. ibid p78 Hemery ibid p687

GEOLOGY

Tumbled blocks – West Mill Tor SX 586909 Weathering of granite follows joint weaknesses with graded results from slight to severe1. Severely or completely weathered granite consists mainly of clay with quartz sand. Dartmoor granite is moderately weathered and forms growan2, forming a matrix between solid rock, around stacks, core stones, smaller blocks, and small shattered rocks or clasts, and can be seen in roadside quarries and cuttings.

No movement will happen until this infill material is removed by erosion, mainly by percolating water, and this will be more effective during and after immediate exposure of the tor. The contact stresses between supporting blocks will increase as the infill is removed and may result in failure, as seen in this photo.

Tors emerge when the surrounding ground surface is lowered more rapidly than bare-rock surfaces, however here the tumbled mass of blocks in front of West Mill Tor are protecting it from further collapse but also increasing the sub-surface weathering due to increased moisture. Weathering rate is changed by the thickness of this waste material or regolith. Some consider that this is a result of vigorous frost action during the Ice Age3.

References (West Mill Tor) 1

2

3

Fookes, P.G., Dearman, W.R., and Franklin, J.A. 1971 ‘Some engineering aspects of rock weathering with field examples from Dartmoor and elsewhere’ Q.J. Engng Geol.

4, pp139–85, p170 Eden, M.J., Green, C.P. 1971 ‘Some aspects of granite weathering and tor formation on Dartmoor, England’ Geografiska Annaler Ser. A, 53. pp92–99, p96 Palmer, J., and Neilsen, R.A. 1962 ‘The Origin of Granite Tors on Dartmoor, Devonshire’ Proc. York Geol Soc. 33 pp315–40

Bridging block – Oke Tor SX 614902

References (Oke Tor) 1

2

3 4

Twidale, C.R. 1982 Granite Landforms Elsevier, Amsterdam p305 Worth, R.H. Worth’s Dartmoor Reprint David & Charles Plate 12B Twidale ibid p305

Parted stacks – East Mill Tor SX 598902

Two features, a wide gap and a bridging block, remain unexplained, particularly when together. The combination perplexed Worth who could find no satisfactory explanation for the movement resulting in the formation. Likewise, and more recently, neither could Twidale1 who has written extensively on granite landforms.

The gaps or partings represent a widening of the vertical joints due to significant movement. Oke Tor has two bridging blocks; most tors have none.

Plate 12B in ‘Worth’s Dartmoor’2 shows a close-up view, from ground level, of the formation. The view here is from the other side looking down, showing toppled blocks in close relationship to the formation. The 4m-long bridging block (a 1m measuring stick lies in front) is at right angles to the main axis of the tor. To get into this position it must have been moved significantly and not slipped into place.

Although Twidale argues that, ‘both gap and marginal blocks are surmounted by other blocks… [they] cannot be accounted for by unbuttressing… [because] they could not roll apart’3, my view is that a toppling stack, or unbuttressing, did happen here. It would have been a staged process beginning with early parting resulting from exhumation-settling. The ‘marginal block’ would have been a higher stack, similar to other extant stacks on the tor, possibly made up of four blocks.

Three of these now lie prone beyond the ‘marginal’, the fourth remains as the bridge. Instability increased with continued weathering and further settling and movement of the blocks, possibly into a leaning stack.Eventually the threshold was exceeded and the stack toppled outwards from its base. In doing so it levered the top block inwards to fall into the bridging position. Other alternatives are possible, but this sequence is a simple explanation based on modelling the original stack using small blocks to see how they would fall.4

Comparing these two pictures (below) shows that at some time the top block (shown in Worth’s picture) has been destroyed. The large amount of debris between the two stacks in the recent photograph may well have once been this missing block. The tor is located within the training area of Okehampton Camp and it is possible that the block was destroyed during firing practice in the past. Northeast of the tor is the military road and midway between are the remains of a target railway. Ordnance firing over the target would be in line with East Mill Tor, however this would have been during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, so unless Worth’s photo dates from the 1900s (which is just possible) this explanation is unlikely.1

The parted stack without the top block, in 2010

Plate 12A from Worth’s Dartmoor – showing the top block in place REPRODUCED WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE DEVONSHIRE ASSOCIATION

Stack top looking back down the parting

DARTMOOR 39

GEOLOGY

The picture of the stack top reveals a corner section missing. Surprisingly the granite, although apparently sound, is not hard, but can be broken by hand. Water has penetrated deeply into the outer surface and yet the rock remains coherent.

Under pressure it fails to hold together and cracks in straight cleavages. Did the top block slip or fall, was it pushed or did it succumb to off-target military ordnance?

Whichever is the correct answer it represents the vulnerability of exposed top blocks on tors that will become unstable and fail, usually sooner than other stacks and blocks on a tor.

At approximately 20 cubic metres and weighing 55 tons the stack is a considerable weight to have been moved over a metre horizontally. Worth considered earthquake and lightning as possible agents for this movement [p26]; he did suggest ice wedging but did not pursue the notion. Twidale rules out ice wedging because parted blocks are also found in the tropics where there has been no history of cold conditions, and says, ‘that there is at present no satisfactory explanation of parted blocks’.2 Parted blocks are found on numerous tors, suggesting that whatever the cause it is not localised but ubiquitous. If ice wedging is ruled out then lubrication aided by melting ice within the infilling of growan would be a reasonable explanation. Alternatively another possibility is settling as the tor became exhumed.

The situation is made more complex by the apparent horizontal movement of the four separate blocks on the stack, easily noticed by the stepped nature of the vertical joint. It is possible that these horizontal blocks moved prior to the main stack parting.

References (East Mill Tor) 1

2

Personal communication with Lieutenant Colonel Tony Clark, Okehampton Commandant Twidale, C.R. 1982 Granite Landforms Elsevier, Amsterdam p305

40 DARTMOOR

Slipping and sliding – Scorhill Tor SX 657872

Split blocks – Bowerman’s Nose SX 742804 This early postcard view illustrates the last of the threshold types, as well as the last remains of tor evolution according to Ehlen.1

Scorhill, East Mill and Hucken tors are ideal examples of valley-side tors with widely spaced vertical joints, often in the tens of metres. They also display wide parting between these joints, and in the case of Scorhill Tor and Hucken Tor major sliding has taken place. The surface outcrop of Scorhill has been removed in places leaving the sheet-jointed granite surface, like a pavement, often level with the gently sloping hillside. Down the slope are possibly the remains of these outcrops, or stacks, that have slid into place. Similar pavements occur at Longworthy Tor (SX 706770), and the Slipper Stones (SX 563888). At Scorhill, however, the evidence is sufficiently clear to indicate that the outcrops have separated and moved more than 10m downslope. In the picture (above) the North Teign river is to the left.

There is no agreement on how sliding occurred. Did the outcrops move suddenly, slowly over a long period of time, or in separately phased movements?

Is movement still happening? If not then what we see results from past events. Was the movement preceded by disintegration of the outcrops, or did they move en masse? At what stage in the evolution of the tor did this happen: when it was first exposed, during the Ice Age, or at some other period? What made it happen?

These are difficult problems that face the physical geographer. This major sliding may well be the result of the same processes as block-parting but of a higher magnitude.

In this case the threshold that has been exceeded exposes a new level of granite that could in time, as the valley cuts deeper, develop into a tor feature.

A pinnacle tor, Bowerman’s Nose

Blocks on tors can be found that have been split by straight cracks. Often these are explained as the result of frost splitting, but may well be better explained2 as induced fracture caused by upper blocks, where their combined weight is limited to only a few contact points putting excessive pressure on the block or blocks below. The consequence of this is the fracture crack.

The two lower blocks on Bowerman’s Nose have induced vertical fracture cracks.

Such cracks may have contributed to the pedestal form of the tor. These fractures will be sudden, and is another threshold event. Some isolated surface blocks may well have been split by frost action.

References (Bowerman’s Nose) 1

2.

Ehlen, J. 1991 ‘Significant geomorphic and petrographic relations with joint spacing in the Dartmoor Granite, Southwest, England’ Zeitschriftur Geomorphologie Vol 35 pp425–38 Ollier, C.D. 1978 ‘Induced fracture and granite landforms’ Z. Geomorph. NF 22, pp249–57

HISTORY

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DARTMOOR 41

CONSERVATION

Sticklepath and Okehampton Conservation Group Mike Watson looks back over 20 years of StOC, prize winners at the Edward Morshead Award 2011 PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF StOC

Wetland management on Prewley Moor...

I

n September the Sticklepath and Okehampton Conservation Group (StOC) was proud to celebrate its 20th anniversary.

The group came about as a result of the enthusiasm generated by a community project at Sticklepath, when it was realised that – instead of sitting around complaining that ‘someone’ ought to do this or that – we could actually do something to improve our local environment. The group was formed to encourage the commitment of local people who wanted to learn about, care for, and work at improving their surrounding area in practical ways. The group is open to all; a nucleus of volunteers turns out regularly on Fridays, including several members with varying disabilities.

It is interesting to see how people from many different backgrounds work together as a group. A variety of projects are carried out, such as footpath and bridleway maintenance, including where necessary the construction of stiles, gateways, bridges and boardwalks. We also do a lot of gorse and rhododendron control and wetland management; 42 DARTMOOR

...and Brennamoor Common

in suitable locations boxes for birds, bats and dormice have been installed, and assistance given to a number of tree-planting schemes. Walling, hedging, and coppicing projects have also been undertaken, with tuition when necessary. It is really satisfying to re-visit sites for ongoing maintenance and to see, for example, where habitat improvement has enabled certain species of butterfly or dragonfly to flourish.

A few projects deserve special mention. The Pixies Moor Boardwalk on the northeast slopes of Cosdon Beacon is based on a design which Ian Brooker, our local DNP Ranger, had seen successfully used during his exchange year in Newfoundland. It has an overall length of 233m and incorporates a bridge over a stream, and was made in sections off site at the StOC shed at Finch Foundry, Sticklepath. We managed to achieve this without fixing any of it to the ground, unlike a previous timber project where enthusiastic use of overly long nails had the construction firmly anchored to the tarmac! The sections were transported to the site and manhandled into place, then fixed

together with wooden fishplates. The whole length of the boardwalk acts as a single unit effectively floating on the surface of the boggy area without a single post being knocked into the ground. The bridge and approach steps were constructed on site, with the two beams and all timber being carried in along the boardwalk.

The whole structure has been in place for about five years now, and has remained extremely stable over difficult and boggy terrain. It gives a defined route across this valuable habitat at all times of the year, eliminating damage by walkers trying to find a way across the moor. There has been a beneficial effect on natural regeneration of vegetation and the area is rich with southern marsh and butterfly orchids, bog asphodel and bog cotton, and home to the marbled white butterfly. The StOC group is regularly involved in the control of invasive species such as willow and gorse in order to maintain this important habitat. Over-enthusiastic members have to be restrained from snipping off the vegetation with scissors as it grows through the boardwalk (we are not in suburbia!).

CONSERVATION In May 2011 the group assisted the Dartmoor Ranger Service and other volunteers in replacing the footbridge across the River Taw at Beloes in Belstone Cleave (see In the News, Issue 104, autumn 2011).

The Devon County surveyor had condemned the existing bridge after 33 years, forcing a temporary closure of this well-used route. The bridge was delivered as a kit to the car park area off Skaigh Lane, about 700m

short of the installation site. The two main beams were each 9m long, 200mm wide and 400mm deep, which meant a considerable weight of timber to be manhandled to the river crossing. This was achieved by lifting and securing one end of the beam to the towbar of a Land Rover, fixing a corrugated iron ‘ski’ to the rear end and towing it along the track. It was manoeuvred by hand down a steep path, using trees and conveniently sited boulders as levers and pivots, and slid out along the old bridge – all carried out to the encouragement and endless words of advice from those watching! Once in position on the old bridge the treads were cut out and the old beam removed, leaving room to manoeuvre the new beam into position. The procedure was then repeated with the second beam.

We then moved in like a troupe of trained monkeys to fix the uprights and handrails, spacers and treads.

Nobody fell in the river and no tools were dropped in!

One of the stone supports contained a bees’ nest, and in the partial rebuilding of the stonework our thoughtful Ranger cemented

in a couple of lengths of drainpipe, just stopping short of marking their entrance and exit. The bees, identified as Solitary Bees, have since been seen happily using them. (There was considerable erudite discussion as to whether they had now changed to being ‘gregarious’ bees as many more than one were using the nest!)

A lot of the group’s work is carried out in the northern part of Dartmoor National Park, working closely with the local DNP Ranger on a great variety of tasks. It has been very encouraging to the group to have featured a number of times in the Edward Morshead Award Scheme for conservation projects, and particularly so in our 20th year to have gained recognition for our ‘excellent and sustained conservation work on Dartmoor’.

In the Okehampton area we have assisted in the management of Old Town Park over many years and, with other groups, in various river clean-up projects and the Clapps Wood project to open up a beautiful small riverside wood in the town.

Above Okehampton on Easthill we have rescued ancient medieval village sites from being totally overrun and lost to gorse. This project was made particularly interesting by a visit from the National Park archaeology officer with ground plans to show what the site would have looked like originally. We also work with Devon County Council on rights of way, West Devon Borough Council, Devon Wildlife Trust, National Trust, parish councils, the Forestry Commission and occasionally private landowners where there is a high degree of public access or particular conservation interest. ■ Want to get involved?

We have a lot of fun on our Friday outings and get to work in some beautiful places. If you would like to volunteer, either regularly or just occasionally, please contact Mike Watson, tel: (01837) 840183 or Ian Bowkley, tel: (01837) 840435.

TOP RIGHT Boardwalk installation, Pixies Moor centre RIGHT Working on the new footbridge across the Taw at Beloes BOTTOM RIGHT Path work in Station Road, Okehampton

DARTMOOR 43

DARTMOOR PONIES

A True Daughter of the Moor Anne Belam (née Coaker) 1925–2010 WORDS MICHAEL FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF CAROLINE BELAM

Farmer’s daughter and diplomat’s wife Anne Belam began a Dartmoor Pony stud book at the age of six, turning her passion for the breed into a lifetime’s work

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espite the term ‘Lady’, light-heartedly appended to her in later life, Anne Belam, née Coaker – wunderkind, equine doyenne, visionary, world traveller and dedicated gardener – always retained the impish charm so evident in childhood photos. Whether it was herding a lamb to the dip with brother, John, astride a horse in the midst of a moorland stream, performing an impromptu ‘circus act’ with a couple of ponies and a dog (or even, it was said, putting a slug in the cup of tea of someone she didn’t much take to), her singular cool proclaimed one to whom such things came naturally: if she could do it, why not everybody!

Born Anne Mildred Julia Coaker at Sherberton in the very heart of the Moor, to farmers Frank and Mildred Coaker, she was soon to prove as much a prodigy in the wider world as she had been at home. From the moment she first drew breath in a longhouse – or stable, as she would have it – the tenor of her life was set. Amidst the ponies she loved, together with the omnipresent cattle and sheep, she soon put pen to paper and, by the age of six, had begun her own stud book. Containing details of all the ponies she knew about, from bloodlines introduced into the family by her ancestors to those of her own Haida Stud years later, it remained a lifelong commitment. Also at this time, she entered her first competition in the Dartmoor Pony Society Show (itself launched that year – 1931 – at Brimpts, following the founding of the Society in 1924) and was soon 44 DARTMOOR

to make her mark with a succession

riding a pony – no doctor was called.

On ‘Patience’ at Widemeads, 1936/37

of purebred Dartmoors, such as Heatherbelle VI, Patience, and Cherrybrook. Often riding to shows, she would recall the novelty and excitement of travelling by train, and of competing in The Royal. Hunting was likewise taken up at a young age, initially riding bareback (much to her father’s consternation). Once, after a fall, she was reportedly unconscious for three days but, with transport being ‘out of the question’ – save for

Anne’s early life, as in later years, was a veritable whirl, with her at its cosmic centre. Still a teenager and with the War only adding to the gamut of novelty, she would often ride up to nearby Down Ridge after dark to monitor search points awaiting enemy landings when, by all accounts, the excursions were discharged with the same dispatch as when going over the sticks at pointto-points or effecting various equine

DARTMOOR PONIES

LEFT With ‘Patience’ on Bellever Tor 1937 centre On ‘Workman’, point-to-point, Stippeden, South Brent 1939 BELOW Going from ‘Catkins’ to ‘Octimus’ 1939

party-pieces. In 1939 the Daily Mirror carried a picture of the swimsuitclad 14-year-old negotiating the deep Sandy Pool on her pony, Bramble.

Another picture, involving ponies Catkins and Octimus back-to-back, with Anne perched on hands and knees on their hindquarters, depicts someone not so much in charge of her life as her destiny! After the War her appointment to the Dartmoor Pony Society Judges Panel alongside her father (on which, despite her travels, she was to serve for more than 50 years) set the seal not only on those early interests but also opened new arenas in which she was to play such an exacting part.

But for many outside this domain, an enduring legacy was the founding of what was to become the Sherberton Pony Trekking enterprise.

Starting as holiday-based ‘rides’, Anne’s venture – expanded later by John Coaker and his wife, Diana – afforded countless youngsters (of all ages) the novelty of spending a few days hacking in the country’s very own ‘Wild West’, and was to gain a cult following of national standing.

Buckfast Historian Hilary Beard recalls a holiday spent at Sherberton in the summer of 1947: ‘Together with (mostly) other girls, we would catch our pony, and groom and saddle it under the supervision

of Anne Coaker and a Mr Rooke.

I was mostly allotted a grey called ‘Misty’. Then we would set off across the moors... sometimes for a whole day, when we would stop for a picnic lunch beside a stream… Seemingly endless days are remembered as through the sunny haze of that summer – trekking through heather, ling and bracken, and splashing through crystal-clear streams…’ As for accommodation, Hilary says the girls slept on mattresses in an old, disused farmhouse, whilst the boys were in the barns and made do with hessian sacks filled with straw. With neither running water nor electricity, they used oil lamps and torches and took their washing water from the farmyard trough, with the boys having to ‘traipse down the hill to the river to wash’.

But, at 20-plus, the course of Anne’s life was about to change.

After her marriage in 1948 to diplomat Noel Belam, an abundance of travel would literally take her a world away from a life which, as a true daughter of the moor, she had made the stuff of dreams. A photograph from 1946, says much about her at that time: taking part in a ‘Tilting of the Rings’ competition at Marldon: an action shot which, in any media story, would have brought the house down (see overleaf).

Anne Belam’s overseas journeying was long and actionpacked; but her new life, with its ‘tentpegging and playing polo in Pakistan’, socialising and organising, was very much up her street and, as she once remarked, not that different in essence to the one she’d left behind.

Her Dartmoor Ponies, however, were another matter. In order to secure the bloodlines, they were ‘farmed out’ so that the standards built upon over the years were retained. Later, whilst in Canada, she purchased a Quarter Horse mare in-foal to an Appaloosa from the native Haida Indians. The resulting filly, transported home with a stallion via the Panama Canal, was the start of Anne’s next great passion – the Appaloosas.

After their retirement in 1979 the Belams settled at Fore Stoke, Holne.

Together with her Haida Stud – so named after the Canadian Indian connection – and a general taking up of ‘old reins,’ gardening was soon established as a new cornerstone, with Anne forming a group in the village in which she organised regular – often inter-county – visits to gardens and garden centres.

After her husband’s death in 1991 – and seeking a greater acreage for the growing stud – she eventually moved to the Strole, near Hayford Hall on the edge of Buckfastleigh DARTMOOR 45

DARTMOOR PONIES

November 2010. Her legacy – apart from her two children – as a peerless keeper of the bloodlines of the breed she saw as the archetype riding pony and whose cause for which she had worked from her earliest days, though largely unsung, might best be summarised in a remark from a one-

PHOTOGRAPH RICHARD AUSTIN

Moor. With its ponies going to many countries, including the USA, Norway, Sweden, Ireland and Belgium, the Haida Stud recently scored a ‘first’ in southern Africa with the export of a pure-bred Dartmoor to Namibia.

Anne died, in her garden, in

Anne with Haida Maroon (and foal), a prime example of the standard of pony she had worked so hard to achieve

ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT With brother John taking a lamb to the dip, early ‘30s On ‘Bramble’ at Sandy Pool 1939 (this photograph appeared in Daily Mirror) On ‘Ranger’, Tilting of the Rings, Marldon 1946

46 DARTMOOR

time purchaser on a recent visit: ‘You sold me the best pony it’s possible to imagine.’

Anne Belam leaves a daughter, Caroline, who continues the work with the Haida Stud, a son, Alaric, a grandson, Edward and a granddaughter, Georgia. ■

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Nick Bakers DARTMOOR WINTER Nick Baker is a professional ‘amateur naturalist’ who loves all things with a pulse (and quite a few things without!). He lives in Chagford from where he works as a TV broadcaster, author, photographer and wildlife tour guide.

PHOTOGRAPHS JOHN WALTERS

Lumps, bumps and survival capsules

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ith the vernal shroud of summer well and truly on the floor, the boughs, branches and twigs are revealed in their glorious undress: it is time to appreciate the skeletal beauty of our trees and hedges. Getting to know the silhouettes of our woodland trees is a wholesome, self-educating process.

A personal quiz – have a guess at the identity of the tree up ahead on the path and by the time you reach it you can confirm or dismiss your answer by looking at the form and colour of the bark and buds, or the leaves at its base, or a few stragglers hanging on to twig tips. If you cannot identify a tree by its leaves, then shame on you! Trees are the living lungs of the landscape and give the place its character.

As you kick your way through these leaves you may well notice strange swellings; the lumps and bumps on the leaves you are distributing across the path are galls. Look up to the trees and hedges and you will almost certainly see more revealed by the autumnal processes. Most of these vegetable distortions have been swelling and forming throughout the plants’ growing season and only now are being revealed.

So what are these galls? The simplest answer is that they are plant tissue modified by imposter organisms for their own benefit. The architects are many and from all walks of life: fungi, bacteria, wasps, beetles, sawflies and mites all have a creative role to play. Many are specific to particular trees; others have 48 DARTMOOR

a schizophrenic lifecycle and bounce between different species at different stages; the tastes of others are simply more eclectic. There are many that you cannot see; subterranean galls, rarely seen and only revealed by the gall expert’s trowel or the unfortunate upheaval of a tree during a winter gale.

Their subtle appearance and crypsis doesn’t do justice to the complex chemistry and processes that form them.

Of the 1500 different species of gall in the UK probably some of the most fascinating and obvious are produced by tiny little gall wasps – a curious thing given that their closest relatives, the parasitic wasps, are actually carnivorous.

It is a wonderfully mysterious world, and just picking up an oak leaf smattered with the tiny little hairy rouge discs of spangle galls and looking at them through a hand lens is enough to set my imagination running; to think that in each of these little hairy frisbees is a wasp grub that will carry on eating and then pupate within the safety of the gall. Collect a few

fallen leaves bedecked with these galls and keep them in a clear container/plastic bag over the winter – sometime in the spring you will see the tiny adult wasps emerge. These females then go on to lay their eggs in the flowers of the oak tree and create currant galls; two galls for the price of one wasp!

Oak is a pretty good species to get you galling as many different kinds can be found on its foliage, from the artichoke galls (that look like artichokes) to the soft and spongy ‘oak apples’: the knopper galls, resulting from the takeover of the tissue of a developing acorn and producing a weird knobbly and convoluted freak of an acorn.

Hold a gall between your fingers and wonder at it; the host plant doesn’t get anything from the deal but, by contrast, the gall maker gets a nice cosy place to live, a safe haven protected from the ravages of a horrid world and the attentions of predators.

From the moment an egg is injected into a growing point of the plant (stem,

wildlife flower, bud) chemicals secreted by the imposter start to do their magic. The plant’s cells swell and divide, and growth accelerates; in the most complex of galls, such as the marble galls (hard, spherical, light brown, found on oak), the tiny little grub – like some chemistry wizard – creates a perfect little utopia. It tells the host tissue to divert resources to its little world, instructing it to manufacture different layers of cells; some sugar-rich for the developing grub to eat, others that store sugars for consumption later.

The outer protective layer is rich in tannins, probably produced by the plant and concentrated around the gall in an attempt to protect itself; this is, of course, to no avail as these chemicals are then adopted for the benefit of the insect within, forming a chemical barrier to other invaders.

These tannins are also a link to the local wool industry and our Devonshire ports. Galls have long been a source of pigments for fabric dye, ink and the tanning of leather. The marble gall has a much higher concentration of these chemicals and for this reason would have been valuable historically. After several failed attempts at importing other species of gall wasps, it seems that little Andricus Kollari (the wasp responsible for the marble gall) was a bit tougher. The first UK record was around 1830 in the Exe Valley; in a short space of time it spread throughout the country. The marble gall was ounce known as the Devonshire gall for this reason.

It is possible to split open a gall and examine its contents; depending on the species this can consist of anything from a single little grub in the centre of its own little hedonistic world to a multi-chambered hostel of maggots all munching away. The sad thing is in order to witness this you have doomed the inhabitants. Find an empty gall and you can still get a sense of what went on (an empty gall is obvious by neat little emergence holes made by the owner).

We do get good and bad gall years, depending on the weather and the build up of parasites (the inquilines) that seek out and either consume the gall or parasitise and ultimately consume the gall

Spangle gall

maker! This year seems to have been a good gall year, probably because when the miniscule females went looking for suitable buds and acorns to lay their eggs in the spring, the weather was fine which meant many of these delicate little insects were able to fly to, find and hit their host with relative ease. In a year with a cooler spring the lifecycles of the insect and the plants often fall slightly out of sync, resulting in a miss. This year was a hit for most and so searching for galls should be quite a productive pursuit. ■

Oak gall

Wildlife Sketchbook

John Walters

Robins are very territorial birds and will ‘see red’ if any other robins enter their patch. This pair posture and sing to drive off another which has done so.

This beautiful ‘snow robin’ haunted a corner of Hembury Woods in 2007. Its abberrant plumage made it stand out amongst the dead bracken fronds.

John Walters is a naturalist based in Buckfastleigh with a passion for the wildlife of the National Park. He is a freelance wildlife artist, photographer, public speaker and graphic designer, and co-author of The Wildlife of Dartmoor. www.johnwalters.co.uk

DARTMOOR 49

LAND OF LEGENDS

L egends of the K istvaens

Dartmoor Treasure Chests WORDS MARY TAVY PHOTOGRAPH OSSIE PALMER ‘It is here fondly believed, and delightedly told (for who does not speak delightedly of gold) that in old days vast treasures were hoarded up in these places, for which they appear so convenient...’

Rachel Evans Home Scenes, or, Tavistock and Its Vicinity

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n 1872 Charles Spence Bate, a Plymouth dentist and antiquarian, made a remarkable find when he carefully excavated the cairn known as Two Barrows on Hameldon.

Beneath a paved area 15 feet into the cairn he found a few burnt bones and the pommel of a dagger. It was made of amber, oval in shape and inset with hundreds of gold pins in the shape of a cross. Nearby he found the triangular and grooved bronze blade.

The pommel had been fractured in antiquity and more gold pins had been used in its repair. It was dated roughly to between 1500 and 1700BC and placed for safe keeping in the Plymouth Athenaeum where it was sadly destroyed in the bombing raids of the Second World War. This was undoubtedly the most precious piece of treasure trove to have been found in a Dartmoor sepulchre.

Most items deposited within a cairn or kistvaen are quickly destroyed by the acidity of the peat soil. Reported finds have been few and limited to burnt bone and ashes from a cremation and, occasionally, pieces of pottery, beads and flint tools, but from the distant past come stories of more valuable discoveries – especially gold coins – which would survive the soil owing to the purity of the metal.

The word ‘kistvaen’ has Celtic origins, being derived from the CornuCeltic cist-veyn or cist-vyin (Welsh: cist-faen) meaning ‘stone chest’. Constructed of granite slabs, their size varies considerably, some being large enough to hold a body folded together with the knees under the chin while others were smaller, just large enough to hold a funeral urn for ashes. Crossing believed the local people may not have

50 DARTMOOR

recognised them as graves at all because of their size, and wrote that even in his time they were still referred to as money boxes on Dartmoor.1 A few have even been given names such as The Money Pit, Crock of Gold or The Money Box. Consequently as time and weathering revealed their presence, these small granite chests had been opened and rifled in search of gold coins. The participants met with both success and disaster as these two stories relate.

The first comes in a letter from a Mr S. Dixon, included at the end of Ms Rachel Evans’ book (1846) entitled Home Scenes, or, Tavistock and Its Vicinity.

He warns that, according to tradition, ‘no good fortune could possibly attend the possession of any portion of this earth-hidden gold’. As proof he tells of a certain vicar of Widecombe who gathered information regarding the whereabouts of these ancient graves and one day systematically visited them, removing their contents. He returned home a wealthier man, but his success was short-lived. As he examined the fruits of his labours there was a great explosion and house, vicar and gold were ‘blown to atoms’.

From Mrs Bray comes the second tale2 which tells of two workmen who were instructed to remove stones from a kistvaen on Stennon Hill above Postbridge (I assume this to be Stannon). Her informant named the men as Norrich and Clay, and stated that one of the men discovered a ‘pot of gold’ but kept the news from his companion and sent him to fetch a ‘bar-ire’ or crowbar. While the man was gone he hid the pot and its contents elsewhere until he could retrieve it, and was ‘afterwards known to lend considerable sums of money at interest’.

From her husband’s journals Mrs Bray also reports that the uncle of his present tenant farmer at Beardown had found ‘a few silver coins the size of a sixpence in some of the kairns on the moor’.3 Of a more sinister nature, this

same tenant also reported breaking up a kistvaen on Higher White Tor and finding in it ‘some human hair clotted together, but no bones or other vestige of the body’.

Later, in 1903, a similar discovery was made when the Barrow Committee excavated the stone circle which stands close to the road outside Soussons Plantation. R.H. Worth reports they found a layer of flat stones at the bottom of the kistvaen and beneath the north end in a cavity were ‘two large coils of human hair’. These were sent for examination by an expert who declared them to have been deposited in fairly modern times – ‘a true witch’s piece of work’, supposedly intended to work a spell on the former owner of the hair.4 When we went out to Soussons for our photograph a fire had recently been lit in the kistvaen and pieces of rough turf had been placed at each end to repair the damage, but on top of the blackened earth a few modern coins had been scattered.

The most recent excavation of a Dartmoor kistvaen took place on Whitehorse Hill in August 2011(see pages 18–19). This land of mystery still has secrets for us to discover. ■

1 William Crossing Folklore and Legends of Dartmoor p42 2 Mrs A.E. Bray On the Borders of the Tamar and the Tavy Vol 1 p121 3 Mrs A.E. Bray Vol 1 p104 4 Transaction of the Devonshire Association XXXV 19

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Arts News

DartmoorARTS

News and reviews with Susanne Haines

CanzArt A group of Tavistock-based painters

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his autumn the opening of the annual exhibition of the CanzArt group of artists at Kelly College, Tavistock, introduced me to the work of this eclectic group of painters. I was curious to know more about them and talked to the founder, artist Jane Leitch, to find out how they got together.

Jane specialises in commissioned animal portraits in watercolour, pastel and oils; she also exhibits marine and landscape paintings (see Issue 100, autumn 2010, page 53), and runs painting workshops and art classes.

Having spent her childhood and early 52 DARTMOOR

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teens in the Chagford area, Jane moved back to Devon (to Lydford) in 2000 from the New Forest, where she had been a member of an active artists’ group. Keen to get together with a group of likeminded artists in the Tavistock area, and wondering how to go about it, she was

advised by artist Peter Ffolkes RWA to create her own group.

Visits to local exhibitions helped her to make the decision to select a number of artists whose approach to painting was very different, from the abstract to the illustrative; in a variety of mediums, from pastel, to oil and acrylic, watercolour, pastel and mixed media; and with a wide range of subject matter from still-life, seascape, landscape (with an emphasis on Dartmoor) and portraiture (both human and animal). She invited the selected artists to form a group, and together an early decision was made to restrict the number of members to a limit of 15. The name, CanzArt, was derived from the French quinze for 15. The group was born.

Jane was chairman for six years, and during this time the group has established a regular programme of

Arts News

PHOTOGRAPH NATURAL PHOTOS

annual exhibitions. It also provides the opportunity for members to promote their work outside of the local area, and to pool resources for publicity. Regular meetings offer support and the chance to share the experience of working together, to have talks by visiting artists, and paint-outs.

Current membership includes professional, and semi-professional, artists: Ian Pethers, James Burton, Felicite Darwall, Vera Johns (the current chairman), Jane Leitch, Gaye Martin, Clark Nicol, Paddy Langworthy, Derek Stirland, Philippa Smith, Pat Bates, David Puttock and Christine Linfield. Although Janey and her mother Paddy Langworthy have now both moved across to the east side of the moor, other artists remain Tavistock-based, with a couple over the border in Cornwall.

In 2012 CanzArt’s annual exhibition will be in Totnes at Birdwood House from 31 March to 7 April, and in October they will be exhibiting at the Church House in South Tawton. For further information about the group, their exhibitions, or to commission an artist, visit their website at www.canzart.co.uk ■

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1 Jane Leitch, Gorsey Headland 2 Jane Leitch, Youngster in the Pack 3 Gaye Martin, Monet’s Window 4 Vera Johns, Hollyhocks 5 David Puttock, January Early Light 6 Pat Bates, Evening at Widemouth Sands 7 Clark Nicol, Evening Light, Dartmoor 8 Paddy Langworthy, The Reader 9 James Burton, Portrait 10 Felicite Darwall, Portrait 11 Philippa Smith, Fishy Pair 12 Derek Stirland, Red Landscape 13 Ian Pethers, Sunset, Old Shed 14 Christine Linfield, Last of the Light, Rippon Tor

DARTMOOR 53

Arts News

A Conversation Between Trees

Artworks Gallery, South Brent

Following a residency in October at the Centre for Contemporary Art and the Natural World’s project space, artists-in-residence Active Ingredient (a partnership of artists, scientists and researchers) have created a project entitled ‘A Conversation Between Trees’. The group visualise and interpret environmental data from trees in Brazil and the UK as a new interactive artwork. Visitors are able to get involved and collect their own sensory data in Haldon Forest.

The exhibition reveals the invisible forces at play in forests, displayed as a series of data maps generated live in the gallery space. Large video projections will show trees from Brazil and the UK ‘in conversation’ – revealing the light, colour and climate in the canopy of trees, changing over time.

The (free) exhibition at CCANW in Haldon Forest Park continues until Sunday 29 January 2012. For further information visit www.ccanw.co.uk and www.hello-tree.com.

Since opening six years ago in the summer of 2005, Artworks Gallery has established itself as a vital part of South Brent life. The gallery, run by potter Jane Wellens and her business partner Penny Wainwright, shows work by over 100

Visualisation looking up at the canopy of a mango tree in Brazil

PHOTOGRAPH ACTIVE INGREDIENT

Jane Wellens and Penny Wainwright give a warm welcome to Artworks Gallery

talented individuals, evident in the paintings and prints, ceramics, jewellery, iron-work and other hand-made items which fill the shop’s walls and shelves.

Most of the work is produced by artists and craftspeople living within a few miles of the village. There is even South Brent wool, produced from a small flock of sheep which lives just behind the main street, and whose owners, Colin and Nicky Hutton, spin the fibres into soft skeins of beautiful, natural yarn.

A visit to Artworks guarantees a warm welcome, and an opportunity to browse in a relaxed and friendly place. Artworks is open from 10–5 Tuesday to Saturday, and 10 – 1 on Wednesday. Visit www.artworksouthbrent.co.uk, tel: (01364) 649424 or email: shop@artworks.entadsl.com.

The ‘Tree of Life Lantern Walk’

East Dartmoor National Nature Reserve was brought to life for a night in October by an event organised by Natural England.

Over 900 people came with lanterns to bring light and life back to an old oak tree. This unforgettable experience also gave the participants, young and old, a greater awareness of the countryside.

54 DARTMOOR

PHOTOGRAPH SUSANNE HAINES

PHOTOGRAPH JOE TUCK WWW.JOETUCK.COM

Night and Day with Natural England

The bench was designed in such a way that each volunteer could work on their own individual area of drystone walling.

Through another of Natural England’s volunteer projects, a stone bench has been created near the woodland classroom in Yarner Wood. Sculptor and stone walling expert, David Greig, passed on his skills to the enthusiastic group and together they have created a retaining wall seat, using stone from the site.

For further information about Natural England’s projects, visit www.naturalengland.org.uk.

PHOTOGRAPH RICHARD POVALL

Arts News

Playing boggle outside the village hall

Storytrail Celebration at Belstone Village Hall

PHOTOGRAPH RICHARD POVALL

On a sunny afternoon in late September visitors to Belstone were invited to the Village Hall to join in word games, old and new, as part of the Wordquest Devon Storytrail event. Since July five Storyboxes had been cached on a circular route around Belstone Common (letterbox fashion). Each contained a blank book, pens/pencils and instructions to add a sentence or two to what had previously been written in the book in order to provide inspiration for a series of communally written stories. The Storytrail was one part of Wordquest Devon’s goal to get everyone reading, writing, speaking and thinking about words in 2011/2012. Project artist Charlie Henry created Wingo (word bingo), which proved a great hit on the day, as did other word-based activities.

Cauda Equina – The Horse’s Tale In September, three performances of Cauda Equina – The Horse’s Tale, were the culmination of a six-month action research project, ‘Making It Home’, which considered travel and transport at foot speeds and

by Dartmoor pack pony through community workshops, walking investigations, interviews with local farmers and village hall residencies led by Devon artist, Rosalyn Maynard. ‘Making it Home’ also included a mentoring project for seven young emerging artists and a special commission to research, develop and produce a UK bespoke, pack pony saddle made by master saddler Johan Ulved of Viking Saddlery. For more information contact: Artistic Director, Rosalyn Maynard, email: boz.box@virgin. net, tel: 07888 322194.

Isabella Shriley Miller, Lying as relating

Verena Van Den Berg, Wool, photographed during a walking investigation from Buckfasteigh to Holne

Flittermice & Hoots PHOTOGRAPH ROGER NORGAARD

At the Devon Guild of Craftsmen in Bovey Tracey: MAKE – contemporary crafts for Christmas from Saturday 12 November to Monday 2 January 2012.

Duchy Square Centre for Creativity, Princetown: Devon Artist Network’s Mixed Christmas Exhibition (12 November to 22 December).

The Gallery at Dartmoor National Park’s High Moorland Visitor Centre (£1.50) from 28 October to 31 December, Celebrating National Parks, exhibition of photography by Adam Burton of Dartmoor and other UK National Parks.

Dartington Printmakers ‘Off the Peg’ annual Christmas sale at the new print workshop at Dartington Hall, on the weekend of 17–18 December. Unframed prints for sale.

Green Hill Arts, Moretonhampstead This new artist-led project is co-ordinated by the Moretonhampstead Development Trust. A mixeduse community development based in the old Moretonhampstead primary school it offers studio spaces and offices for creative industries; also a public gallery, heritage archives and youth club. For further information contact Julia Darby at manager@ moretonhampstead.com or tel: (01647) 440855.

FRIENDS – not just for Christmas!

Treat yourself or someone else to friendship of an arts organisation and enjoy the benefits as well as giving much-needed support. Here are a few suggestions: Aune Head Arts – join as a Supporter or as an Artist Friend. For information about their projects and programme visit www.auneheadarts.org.uk or tel: (01364) 72046.

tel: 07808 787266.

‘Birdsongs and Gravestones’, walking between Holne Pool and New Bridge

Entrance to exhibitions is free, except where indicated.

Workshop day with Jane Leitch – drawing and painting from the clothed model planned for the end of January. Contact the artist about this and other art classes through her website at www.janeleitch.co.uk.

Reading from one of the Storytrail collaborative books

Wordquest Devon events, activities and workshops continue through September 2012. For more information go to: www.wordquestdevon.info or ring Creative Producer Sarah Cobley,

Exhibitions, events & news

Aune Head Art’s series of walks led by artists amongst the special habitats and landscapes of Dartmoor and South Devon began in June and continues into the new year. The walks are free, thanks to support through the Awards for All funding programme. Information can be found at www.auneheadarts.org.uk or tel: (01364) 72046.

Centre for Contemporary Art and the Natural World (CCANW) – invitations and discounts off ticketed events, sales of art works and books purchased in the bookshop.

Visit www.ccanw.co.uk or tel: (01392) 832277.

Devon Artist Network – a voluntary organisation that promotes and champions the work of Devon-based artists and designermakers. For further information visit www. devonartistnetwork.com.

Devon Guild of Craftsmen – enjoy benefits including invitations to special events, priority booking and discounts. Visit www.crafts.org.uk or tel: (01626) 832223.

Stone Lane Gardens – membership includes free entry to Mythic Garden Sculpture Exhibition from May to October, and season ticket to the gardens. Visit www.stonelanegardens.com, or tel: (01647) 231311.

DARTMOOR 55

READERS’ LETTERS

Letters

TO THE EDITOR From George Thurlow, Needham Market During my 2011 holiday on Dartmoor I was shown a stone pillar, by Steven and Diane Weymouth, which invites some logical explanation.

It looks like a ‘conventional’ guide post with the initial letters T and A, reminiscent of those on the old Ashburton–Tavistock track, but the T and the A are on adjacent sides. The A is opposite a blank side and the T is opposite a W. The post has been moved comparatively recently, from a heap of miscellaneous stone, and used in wall building, so it has been moved at least twice, and its present location in Poundsgate doesn’t help (besides making it more vulnerable).

If the T or the A indicate Tavistock or Ashburton by an indirect route, that wouldn’t explain the W. Widecombe immediately comes to mind, but doesn’t ‘fit’. The T and the W look as if they have been cleaned, whilst the A is clearly untouched.

Where was it originally? Could the A be the original inscription, and are T and/or W errors of some sort?

From Richard Horsham, Middlezoy I have come across a reference about an earthquake in Princetown, which may be of interest in relation to the interesting article on the Bovey Tracey earthquake by Mike Rego. This was noted in the Transactions of the Devonshire Association, Vol L, July 1918, by Handsford Worth, pp233–4: ‘ There was a slight earthquake at Princetown about 8 a.m. on the 25th August. Mr. Perry reports: “The building in which I was violently shook, and a noise as if a very heavy explosion had occurred somewhere. Everyone here seems to have experienced it.”’

Your readers might appreciate this anecdote.

56 DARTMOOR

The ‘smallest cross’ debate continues!

From Celia Tanner, by email On page 53 of the autumn 2011 magazine Aileen Carrett from Liverton was mentioning a small cross. I think the one that she is referring to is very close to SX 708783, and the lesserknown tor would be Stoneslade Tor. From Stephen Jenkins, by email Tim Jenkinson has drawn my attention to the letter in DM104 about Dartmoor’s Smallest Cross. At just over 4cm (1¾in) tall this cross on Hameldown is far smaller than that near Nun’s Cross Farm, which has traditionally held that accolade (Simon Dell, DM103, p36).

Fixed to a small boulder at SX 708783, it is about 80yds northwest of Stoneslade Tor. It carries the inscription ‘1990’ on one side, and ‘RIP 7-2-91’ on the other. Stoneslade is shown on the 1st Edition OS Map of 1809 (Mudge’s Map), but is omitted from later maps. Hemery (High Dartmoor) mentions the tor as does Jenkinson in his survey of Hameldown (DM55).

From Roger Stark, by email There appears to be quite a bit about little crosses lately and I might have missed some information about one that I came across at Huntington Warren recently. The small cross is attached to a large boulder south of Huntington Warren at SX 66425 66807. I would be interested if anyone knows anything about it.

From Ted Birkett Dixon, Elburton Now this must have been Dartmoor’s smallest cross. Situated on Legis Tor in August 1992 and first seen on a night walk, it remained there for several weeks. I believe it was plastic and was inscribed ‘It’s a Boy’ with a date.

Also enclosed is a photograph of Brent Moor House taken about 1907 and printed in the Western Morning News of 24 December 1963.

Editor’s note – re Brent Moor House (Issue 102, spring 2011) I have recently heard from Kath Jones of Adelaide, South Australia, descendant of the Woodley family living at Didworthy House near Shipley Bridge while the Meynells were at Brent Moor House – ‘there were wild strawberries in profusion to be gathered at Didworthy with the Woodley children…’ Kath has a number of letters dating from that time and in due course hopes to produce an article to further elaborate on the lives of the Woodley and Meynell families.

Dartmoor Magazine would love to hear from you. Please send your letters to the Editor at the Museum Courtyard (see page 3) or email editor@dartmoormagazine.co.uk.

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moor MOOR food FOOD

Of Good Cheer Lori M. Reich visits the Dartmoor Brewery

PHOTOGRAPHS LORI M. REICH AND COURTESY OF THE DARTMOOR BREWERY

D

Mark with the raw ingredients

58 DARTMOOR

espite being only a fiveminute walk away from its origins in an old shed behind the Prince of Wales pub in Princetown, Dartmoor Brewery has come a long way. Now in the former railway goods yard down Station Road, this state-of-the-art brewery means business.

‘We’ve had a lot of support to get to where we are today,’ says marketing director Mark Shackleton.

‘Not just customers and publicans, but Dartmoor National Park office and the Duchy have helped. In fact it was Prince Charles who personally insisted, as a condition of sale of the Duchy-owned goods yard, that this new building be architect designed.’

Attention to detail in the building follows through to the product.

Dartmoor beer is real ale. Says Mark, ‘It is like a living soup. Real ale is a live product and needs to be treated and drunk with respect. It is all about allowing time to make flavours sing.’

As with cheese, wine and women, maturity brings many rewards!

‘There is a revival in real ale.

Younger people are coming off lagers and turning to something with real flavour. Real ale is actually healthy for you: it has a very high amount of Vitamin B12, which helps prevent dementia. Drunk in moderation it is good for you,’ smiles Mark.

Amidst the huge, shiny stainless steel vats and snaking hoses, Dartmoor Brewery remains true to its shed-founded purpose: to brew top-quality cask-conditioned real ale.

With over 6000 brewers’ barrels per year, this is no microbrewery.

‘The brewing process is simple; it is like following any recipe. It all starts with malt, which we get from Tuckers’ Maltings in Newton Abbot.

Malt is barley which is sprouted, thus turning the barley’s carbohydrates into dissolvable sugars called maltose.

It is then dried and roasted. Think of Horlicks, which is nearly pure malt.

The length of roasting will give the malt various flavours, from pale crystal malt for our Dartmoor IPA, to darker, richer chocolate malt used in Jail Ale.

moor food

‘We feed the malt into a large hopper where it is cracked and then transferred to our mashtun. Here it is mixed with heated water to dissolve the malt sugars. The resulting liquor is called wort. This is the basis of all beer, and it is these malt sugars that our yeast will feed on and convert into alcohol. Our beer is characterised by pure soft Dartmoor water which runs off the granite and is in turn enhanced by the crisp acidity of the moorlands.’

The wort is then piped into the ‘copper’. Traditionally a copper was made of this metal, but here a stainless steel vat retains the name, not the original metal. Hops are added, providing the distinctive tannin and slight fruity flavour to the end result. They also contain Vitamin C and act as a preservative.

Only English-grown hops are used at Dartmoor Brewery.

Finally brewer’s yeast is added, and fermentation begins to produce alcohol. ‘We use our own yeast. It is like a starter for bread dough; we always keep a little bit back to make the next batch,’ says Mark, sticking his finger in the large container of spent yeast. ‘Yuck – it’s revolting on its own – not at all like Marmite!

But we give it to a nearby farmer who feeds it to his animals. He says it keeps the pigs happy, so the meat tastes especially fine.

PHOTOGRAPH Neil Mercer

IN

ABV 4.0%

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‘Although it only takes six to eight hours to mix beer, it requires another four to five days to ferment. The beer is then racked into holding tanks and given another rest. Finally it is put into nine-gallon barrels, and finings are added to filter the beer, making

O TM

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it clear. These are left to condition further, making use of the secondary fermentation within the barrel. Only then are they distributed throughout the southwest.’

O ED ARTMO

R

The brewery’s most famous and aptly named Jail Ale is probably well known amongst readers of this magazine. For those who don’t know it, it is a strong, full-bodied beer at 4.8% ABV (alcohol by volume) with a roasted malt, toasty flavour. It has a string of awards to its name and no local beer festival is complete without it.

‘Dartmoor IPA, or Inmates Pale Ale, is lighter (4% ABV), a summery ale. Traditionally an IPA (India Pale Ale) was brewed to be hoppy, allowing it to keep on the voyage to the colonials in India. We have been discussing the possibility of a farmer in the Chagford area growing our barley and a Devon hop grower providing our hops, making our IPA more moorish than ever!

‘Sitting comfortably between them at 4.4% ABV is Legend. It is full-flavoured, a golden-brown colour with a crispy malt fruit finish.

‘Keeping our Dartmoor heritage we also have Three Hares. Its logo is the ancient triangle of hares from the Dartmoor tinners’ badge.’ These three hares are running in a circle, with interlocking ears. Look closely and you will see that although each hare has two ears, there are only three ears total in the design!

‘In Three Hares we use Dartmoor

heather honey from Peter Hunt (see Issue 102, spring 2011). We must be one of his best customers, as we put two jars of honey into each cask of ale,’ says Mark. ‘It brings a hint of Madeira and goes down very well at Widecombe Fair and the Dartmoor Folk Festival.

‘Our newest beer launch was Dragons Breath at Abbfest in September. It was the first to run out on the opening Friday night!

Perfect for a winter drink, we add treacle, giving a hint of Morello cherries and apricots.’

Adds Mark with a smile, ‘Dartmoor brewery is the highest in Britain at an altitude of 1400 feet.

Our beers give you a natural high.’ ■

With thanks to Mark Shackleton.

Dartmoor Brewery Ltd Station Road Princetown Devon PL20 6QX Tel: (01822) 890789 Fax: (01822) 890798 Email: ale@dartmoorbrewery.co.uk www.dartmoorbrewery.co.uk

DARTMOOR 59

MOOR FOOD

Beer Bread Gift Pack The perfect gift for a beer lover (or someone who has everything!). Simple and intriguing enough for anyone to try their hand at baking.

Makes 1 loaf • Find a pretty 1lb jar. Layer into it carefully so you can see the contrasting colours and textures 185g plain flour 2tsp baking powder ½tsp bicarbonate of soda ½tsp salt 2tbsp dark brown sugar 4tsp dried minced onion 50g dried parmesan cheese 100g wholemeal flour (or cornmeal, or mixed half wholemeal, half cornmeal) pinch of cayenne pepper • Label it and tie a pretty ribbon around it.

Include a bottle of beer with the package and these instructions: • In a medium bowl stir the contents of this jar with 340ml/12floz of beer just until combined.

Pour into a greased 450g/1lb loaf tin and bake at 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for 35–40mins.

Whilst you are waiting you can finish off the rest of the beer.

• Check if it is done by inserting a toothpick into the centre – it should come out cleanly.

• Cool for around 10 minutes, then remove the bread from the tin to a wire rack to completely cool.

• Great served smeared with butter and eaten as a hearty ploughman’s with cheese and pickled onions (and more beer, of course). Cheers!

for use on the stove top do the browning in a frying pan, transferring everything to the casserole. Be sure to deglaze your frying pan with the beer to get all those lovely scrapings.

• Sauté just until golden in a heavy casserole 2tbsp oil 2 large onions, peeled and sliced

into half moons 2 cloves garlic, minced • Remove from the casserole and reserve.

Dredge 450g/1lb best casserole steak,

cut into large chunks 2tbsp plain flour Brown in the remaining oil, turning occasionally until all sides are browned. Add the reserved onions along with 3 carrots, peeled and thickly sliced 2tbsp tomato paste 1 bottle beer • Cover and put in a slow oven, 150°C/325°F/ gas mark 3 for at least three hours.

• Serve with mashed potatoes and a green vegetable.

Beer Batter for Frying Enough for 1kg fish/veg

Great for a traditional fish and chip supper, this batter is feather light thanks to the action of the beer on the flour. Try it with vegetables or even Japanese-style tempura.

• Stir together until well blended 75g cornflour 200g plain flour 1tsp salt 330ml beer • Leave for at least an hour, more is preferable.

Dust fish or vegetables in flour to help the batter stick. Dip into the batter, allowing the excess to drip off, then fry in hot oil until puffed and golden.

Good Cheer Gingerbread 9 servings

Beef and Beer Casserole Serves 4–6

Put it together before a winter walk on the moors and come home to glorious smells. If your casserole is not ‘thick-bottomed’ enough

60 DARTMOOR

• In a medium bowl sift together 125g plain flour 1tsp ginger powder 1tsp bicarbonate of soda ½tsp cinnamon ½tsp salt ¼tsp powdered cloves ¼tsp freshly grated nutmeg • In another medium bowl combine until thoroughly blended 75g treacle 75g golden syrup 125ml beer • Add the dry ingredients alternately with the beer mixture, beating well after each addition.

• Grease well a 20cm (9in) square tin. Pour in the batter and bake in the preheated oven for about 30mins. Cool on a wire rack. Cut into squares and serve either warm or cold.

A seasonal variation of a traditional sticky ginger cake. For a special treat mix lemon curd into plain yogurt or whipped cream to serve. Also try with sweetened apple sauce or even good old custard.

• Preheat your oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Cream together 75g butter 100g brown sugar • Add one at a time, stirring well 2 medium eggs

Beer and Cheese Soup Serves 6

A great way to use up leftover holiday cheeses.

Serve with crusty bread and a Waldorf salad for a hearty lunch or light supper.

• Fry together until softened and golden 2tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 2 stalks celery, diced 2 medium parsnips, peeled, cored

and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced • Sprinkle over the top and stir constantly for about 2mins 4tbsp plain flour • Stir in 500ml chicken or vegetable stock 250ml beer • Add bay leaf pinch of cayenne pepper • Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for around 20mins, stirring occasionally. Use a stick blender or food processor to blend the soupy vegetables to desired smoothness.

• Stir in a handful at a time, mixing until thoroughly blended 200g mature cheddar cheese 100g Stilton cheese • Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve with a swirl of double cream on top.

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eating out

Getting to the heart of The Oak The Oak Inn, South Brent WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPH JULIA WHERRELL Ladies – when you visit The Oak in South Brent – be careful where you sit.

‘Rumour has it that the local magistrate used to hold court here in the 1890s,’ says owner Andrew Doree, pointing out a throne-like wooden seat. ‘And rumour has it that any ladies who sit in it will find themselves in the family way!’

The Oak is situated near the top of Station Road in this large village on the southern edge of the moor. There has always been a hostelry of some sort on the site – posting house, hotel or gentleman’s club – and the building dates from around 1885, replacing an earlier structure which burnt down.

Andrew and his wife Carol have owned The Oak for nine years and, as well as extensively refurbishing the property, have built a reputation for consistently good food and beer. ‘We like to say we provide restaurant food at pub prices,’ says Andrew; and with regular listings in the Michelin Eating Out in Pubs Guide and a healthy local following The Oak is clearly hitting the mark.

Also renowned for its beers and wines, there are always two local beers on tap (usually Teignworthy Reel Ale and Otter Ale), plus guest beers (around six real ales at any one time).

‘Did you know there were 31 independent breweries in Devon?’ asks Andrew. That knowledge helps explain how the inn manages to have such a good mix of truly ‘local’ beers and why it has been named CAMRA pub of the year by the South Devon CAMRA branch more than once. ‘We’re as 62 DARTMOOR

keen on our wines as are beers, and spent months choosing our wine list,’ says Carol.

‘We held wine tastings and invited our regulars to get their feedback and the resulting list is extensive.’

Extensive it is, expensive it’s not – and this attention to sensible prices is clearly at the heart of The Oak. Simon Wardle, a young and talented chef who came here from one of the southwest’s top restaurants, has been Head Chef for almost four years.

Simon works hard to buy his fresh ingredients from within a 50-mile radius of South Brent whenever he can. ‘We are lucky: we have a licensed fisherman living over the road who provides us with sea bass, and local farmers bring in game. Locals with excess veg often pop in, and we are very happy to buy good fresh produce from them.’

The local primary school has a productive vegetable garden, and their surplus often finds its way to The Oak. ‘We ran a “Sustainable South Brent” night recently and dishes included a squirrel terrine.’

Simon reports that, rather predictably, diners said it ‘tasted

like chicken’.

The à la carte menu changes about every six weeks and showcases Simon’s cooking skills with some stunning dishes. Typically, starters may include roasted salsify with parmesan cheesecake, thyme crumble and a port, balsamic and shallot reduction, and poached hake, lemon and dill roulade; main courses are equally special, such as seared venison steak with herb rösti, cabbage roulade, smoked chocolate and redcurrants, or stuffed baby squash with creamy quinoa risotto. When pressed, Simon says he probably enjoys creating desserts more than anything else. ‘They give you scope to show off and impress people!’ His most popular dessert is probably his baked cheesecake. ‘People will often phone to check it’s on the menu, so I guess that would be my signature dish.’

The Oak offers a separate bar menu featuring a range of popular options. But, typically, this isn’t standard fare: sandwiches are served in ciabatta rolls with unusual fillings and the fish is beer battered and served with glazed peas and skinny fries.

It’s also refreshing to see a very attractive and sensibly priced set children’s menu.

The Oak was formerly known as The Royal Oak but, as Carol points out, there are hundreds of Royal Oaks; the new name is more contemporary and helps highlight the changes achieved.

There are five well-appointed letting bedrooms, created as part of a major building project completed in 2008. Says Andrew, ‘Our trade is pretty steady throughout the year. We see a small rise in the summer months, but South Brent is not really a tourist spot. We have a good local following and the reputation of Simon’s food ensures people travel here Plymouth and the Torbay area.’

‘We have a good mix of regulars of all ages,’ says Carol.

There are traditional pub events such as general knowledge and music pub quizzes plus regular folk music nights. With such a range of food and drink and a welcoming atmosphere, it’s not surprising The Oak is going from strength to strength. ■

Fact File Open Mon–Thurs 11am–2pm, 6pm–11pm; Fri 11am–2pm, 4pm– midnight; Sat 11am– midnight; Sun 11.30am– 11pm. Food serving times: see website.

The Oak Inn, Station Road South Brent TQ10 9BE Tel: (01364) 72133 www.oakonline.net Free car park 100yds away; dogs welcome in bar area.

www.brigidfoley.co.uk 8 Paddons Row, Tavistock. 01822 612203

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OUT AND ABOUT

Dartmoor Discovered

Wells Tor (East)

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS TIM JENKINSON

I

t is very likely that hundreds of people will have walked the path to Buckland Beacon on South Dartmoor to view the celebrated Ten Commandments stones that have lain close to the summit at SX 735731 since c1928 without paying too much attention to the small tor that resides over the wall a short way to the east. The accounts of Welstor Common in Dartmoor literature are surprisingly scant, with only William Crossing (WC) and Eric Hemery (EH) providing an indication of there being any rocks in the vicinity. Marked simply as ‘Welstor Rock’ on popular OS maps, implying a single entity, there are in fact two separate outcrops on this hillside, one of which – the eastern pile – has until now seemingly escaped description.

In the 1912 edition of the Guide to Dartmoor (reprinted 1993) Crossing reinforces the notion of a single rock at this point, for not only is it listed as such in his index, it also appears on page 346 where he describes a short walk to Buckland Beacon from Welstor Cross as follows: The road runs L to Ausewell Cross but we shall keep R, or northward and speedily reach the commons which are here enclosed by a wall L. In this, however, there are three gates and on reaching the first we enter and pass up the slope W, with the Rifle Range R, to Welstor Rock. In front of us is another wall, in which there is also a gate and on passing through this we shall find ourselves close to Buckland Beacon.

64 DARTMOOR

It is the reference to the gate in the final sentence of this quote that indicates that WC was standing at the top part of the tor, somehow having missed the more obvious rocks on the hillside that lie on the eastern side.

Published some 70 years later in High Dartmoor EH introduces the name of ‘Wells Tor’ (page 665) to describe the area.

Also using ‘Welstor Rock’ in his account, he describes it as a pile that is ‘completely in ruins’ having ‘shed its weathered slabs flat upon the ground’, again giving the impression of a single outcrop here. Like his predecessor Hemery also refers to the nearby hunting gate. From reading their descriptions it is my assertion that both men were describing the upper and most western outcrop of the tor at SX 7368 7304, the one that is clearly visible over the wall from Buckland Beacon. This is indeed the most ruinous part, little more than a jumble of large boulders.

So why did neither author make reference to the second and more robust outcrop at SX 7378 7296, little more than 100m to the east of here? Did either of them walk over the summit and down to the eastern pile? By their descriptions it seems not. Admittedly this part of the tor is not actually visible from the western rocks, but it is certainly more prominent when viewed from above and below and retains within it a curious weathered ‘L’-shaped central stack with deep fissures that zigzag

through the granite (see photograph above centre), beneath which on the south side a considerable rock field extends. Another possible reason for the lack of attention lies in the difficult terrain here that until relatively recently was choked with gorse, making walking between the two outcrops virtually impossible. Swaling has made the area much more accessible, and now is the time to visit the forgotten stack of Wells Tor. Park up at Cold East Cross (SX 7406 7420) and walk south along the wall to Buckland Beacon. Wells Tor is over the wall to the east, appearing as a ruined tor from this point; you will need to proceed downhill to see the much better defined outcrop. ■ ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT Wells Tor (east) and rock field Wells Tor east stack SX 7378 7296 Wells Tor (west) SX 7368 7304

References Crossing, W. (1912) Guide to Dartmoor (reprinted 1993) Peninsula Press Newton Abbot Hemery, E. (1983) High Dartmoor: Its Land and People Robert Hale London

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in the garden

In the

GARDEN

Practical ideas, tips, gardens to visit – with Val Tame PHOTOGRAPHS VAL TAME

E

ach winter I like to settle down and review all aspects of the gardening year in order to learn from my mistakes, to take stock and plan for next season. In spring the bulbs came early and we were serenaded with a profusion of snowdrops, then daffodils, tulips and many perennials.

However, nothing prepared us for the heat of April which, whilst being welcome after the long and freezing winter, somehow managed to fry emerging seedlings in the greenhouse and yet remain too chilly at night to make any successful outside sowings.

So what should have been a brilliant start left me behind, desperately trying to catch up in dry, cool and cloudy May and June.

Of course, these conditions continued and by late September the optimistic gardener in me had

finally accepted that summer, Indian or otherwise, was not gonna happen this year.

Our five days of glorious summer, when it did finally grace us with its presence in October, came too late for many vegetables to benefit and I was left to lament a large patch of under-developed squashes, only baby sweet corn and already rotting onions and garlic because there wasn’t enough heat in August to dry them off properly. I have recently discovered that squashes need plenty of sun in their early leaf development to provide nutrients for the emerging fruits later on. Apparently growers in the East of England had wonderful results in their sunnier climate, but only if they had a good watering system in their drought conditions.

Next year I shall aim to plant the onion sets earlier and to lift them,

albeit smaller, sooner and before the rot sets in. I shall also put up with their strong scent and thoroughly dry them off indoors, if necessary.

Onions are expensive to buy later in the season and well worth the investment of time to secure a longlasting crop.

Next spring I shall plant my squashes directly into holes in a black plastic sheet, having prepared the soil really well first with lots of well-rotted dung. Alternatively, fleece could be placed over the top as both methods will help to increase soil temperatures so that the plants grow more quickly.

All the shrubs, herbaceous and alpines flowered early and beautifully, provided they had sufficient water.

Many shrubs I thought had died after the freezing winter finally resurrected in midsummer, long after I had abandoned them; these included

Tips gleaned from my gardening year • Don’t give up too soon on shrubs that appear dead after a bad winter.

Check them for signs of green shoots regularly and be prepared for a long wait.

• If a shrub is flagging check it has enough water, prune appropriately after flowering and give it a good feed of well-rotted dung.

• Really nurture rows of young seedlings in the vegetable garden;

keep them well weeded, thinned and slug free and they’ll reward you handsomely.

• Water onions in times of drought.

• It pays to use black plastic, old carpets or cardboard as a mulch during winter to suppress weeds and warm the soil, particularly important in Dartmoor’s colder climate.

• Pots of winter Cyclamen make a lovely Christmas present and they last much longer than a bunch of flowers.

• Enjoy the snow-laden winter days in the garden by observing colour contrasts and sculptural forms.

66 DARTMOOR

in the garden

Plant of the Season

a handsome Pittosporum garnettii, several Senecio sunshine and wwMyrtus communis.

All the Roses, Camelias, Viburnum, Deutzias and many other ornamental shrubs have flowered magnificently this year so I can only conclude that they benefit from long spells of freezing weather, an opinion echoed by other gardeners throughout the county.

Whilst visiting gardens open to the public I came across some great ideas, for Christmas and just for fun. One philanthropic stately home had allocated a section of their grounds for allotments with a kiddies’ corner. Perched on a table was a selection of huge bonny cups and saucers containing all kinds of herb and flower gardens, just the perfect scale for small children – and they could eat the contents.

Another made us laugh out loud with its group of clipped Box domes – with faces. It doesn’t always do to take gardening too seriously.

Whilst thinking of Christmas, last year I made a very simple wreath from Cornus, though any firmish bendable stem will do, such as Ivy or Willow. I decorated mine with variegated Holly, Euonymus fortunei sprigs and Ivy flowers; they were all growing in the garden and helped to form a background to which I added some ribbons and a few red plastic berries. Worth a try, especially in these times of financial recession. ■

The Mahonias are large, very sculptural and evergreen shrubs that are particularly useful for dark and dry corners where their pale, lemon-scented yellow flowers will lighten the gloom in winter. They work well in a shrub border though need plenty of room to grow; some varieties, such as M. repans, are smaller, only 30cm high but with a spread of 1m. M. japonica is excellent for the larger border, growing to 2m with a spread of 3m. It flowers from autumn to early spring followed by bluepurple berries. There are many hardy varieties available. Most Mahonias prefer humus-rich soil and partial shade but will tolerate full sun if not too dry. To propagate: sow seed outdoors in a seedbed when ripe, or root semi-ripe cuttings from late summer to autumn.

ABOVE Cyclamen – a lovely present at Christmas time FAR LEFT Cup-and-saucer herb and flower gardens BELOW Box ‘faces’

Gardens to visit As few gardens are open to the public on Dartmoor in winter why not get sculptural inspiration for your garden by visiting some of the wonderful Forestry Commission woods, such as at Fernworthy, Bellever or Soussons plantation.

The Woodland Trust also has lots of woodland on Dartmoor (see www.visitwoods.org.uk).

For a day out for the family, drop off the moor and visit Saltram House on the outskirts of Plymouth overlooking the Plym estuary with 500 acres of parkland to explore. The park, garden, shops and gallery are open all year round; family garden explorer packs, play areas and a café. Tel: (01752) 333503 or www.nationaltrust.org.uk/saltram/ Need help in the garden?

Are you struggling with the way your garden looks? Just two hours on-the-spot advice could make a huge difference. Garden advice or full garden plans available. Tel: (01364) 621331 to discuss your needs. www.valtame.co.uk DARTMOOR 67

WALKING ON DARTMOOR CONSERVATION

Huts, Lynchets and Buddles Step back through the centuries on a walk that uncovers layers of history WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS DEBORAH MARTIN

Looking towards Meldon Hill from the car park

W

inter is often the best time to see Dartmoor’s historical features, and this area, to the north and west of Hameldown, has more history than you can shake a trekking pole at.

To start with, the route passes the remains of a group of hut circles on Shapley Common, which, like many others on the moor, date from the 2nd millennium BC. Then there’s the well-known site of Grimspound, which is first seen from the viewpoint of Hookney Tor. The massive enclosure wall of the settlement almost fills the saddle between here and Hameldown Tor and encircles the remains of 24 huts.

The site was first excavated as long ago as 1894–5, when flint and stone artefacts were found and some of the hut walls were later reconstructed.

Within each hut a central post would have supported a conical roof of wood and heather or turf.

Next the walk passes the isolated farmhouse of Headland Warren.

As its name implies, there was a rabbit warren nearby, constructed

68 DARTMOOR

to provide meat for the tinners in this area. The scale of this enterprise meant that rabbits were also exported to nearby towns and beyond. The house itself dates from the 15th century or earlier and at one time (probably early 19th century) operated as a pub; William Crossing refers to it as the Birch Tor Inn. Beyond, on the slopes of Challacombe Down the old field system known as ‘lynchets’ can be seen. Dating from the 12th and 13th centuries these narrow strips created terraces for pasture and arable farming. Where Challacombe Farm now stands was once the site of a medieval hamlet; look out for the remains of a longhouse just before the farm and the various information boards in the area.

Bearing round to the Redwater Valley, with the conifers of Soussons beyond, we reach an area that was for centuries a focus of tin extraction.

The early tinners have left evidence of their streamworking in the gullies and spoil heaps all around, then later (from the second half of the 18th

century) there are records of mining activities. The shafts and workings of Birch Tor & Vitifer Mine and Golden Dagger Mine occupied much of this area until mining finally ceased with the closure of the latter in 1930. The route passes one of the remaining buddles from Golden Dagger, a circular trough where the ore was washed to separate the heavier particles. Nearby is the ruin of Dinah’s House, which included both accommodation and offices and was home to a succession of miners and their families.

Above the head of the valley we reach Bennett’s Cross, one of many granite crosses that mark ancient tracks across the moor. This one doubles as a boundary marker for it has been used to mark a parish boundary (Chagford and North Bovey) as well as the bounds of Headland Warren and of Vitifer Mine.

All this history is thirsty work.

Luckily, the full route passes the Warren House Inn, where countless miners once slaked their thirst – and a historical feature itself. ■

WALKING ON DARTMOOR CONSERVATION

THE WALK MAP OS Explorer OL28 (1:25,000) START/FINISH SX 698835 DISTANCE Full route 13.5km (81/2 miles); using alternative A 10.8km (63/4 miles); using alternative B 12.5km (73/4 miles); using both A and B 10km (61/4 miles) TIME Full route about 41/2 hours TERRAIN Paths over open moorland, bridleways and tracks PUBLIC TRANSPORT Transmoor Link bus no. 82 (between Exeter and Plymouth) runs along B3212 on Sundays only in winter; Traveline 0871 200 2233

Mist swirls over Grimspound

2

From the main rock pile take a path downhill just east of south – it’s partly paved with rock slabs. At the bottom

cross a stream to reach the enclosure wall of Grimspound; inside are the remains of numerous circular dwellings. Return to the stream, cross it and immediately turn left on a path

Warren House Inn

that dips, then contours below Hookney Tor. Stay on the path

Winter opening hours: Mon, Tues 11am–5pm; Wed–Sat

as it descends to the road, cross and take a path to the right

11am–11pm; Sun 12 noon–10.30pm

of a deep gully. This leads down to a signpost to the right of

Food served from midday to 9pm (until 4.30pm Mon, Tues;

Headland Warren Farm.

until 8.30pm Sun) Tel: (01822) 880208

The bridlepath round Challacombe Down approaches the Redwater valley

A hut circle on Shapley Common

1

3

Turn left on the bridlepath signed to Challacombe Farm; this has been rerouted round the left of Headland Warren

Farm, so follow the fence round then go through a gate. Turn

Cross the road and walk south on a path that climbs

left on the access road, then almost immediately fork right onto a

gradually up the broad ridge of Shapley Common. As the

grassy track and through a gate (signed). After another gate the

incline increases a bit look out for the hut circles to the left of the

path runs beside a fence, skirting round the base of Challacombe

path. Soon after, take the right fork and after it bends right take

Down. Stay at this level to reach a gate and continue ahead on

the left fork alongside a low bank. The ascent is more gradual

the track passing Challacombe Cottages and Farm. Go through a

here but steepens again as you approach Shapley Tor, a group

gate, past a pond, to reach a fork at two gates.

of low rocks on the hillside, 1.25km from the car park. The path continues south, keeping to the right-hand side of the hill. Past

Alternative A

a low rock outcrop it contours southeast, then south again over

Continue ahead at the signpost on the bridlepath for Warren

level ground before dropping slightly to reach a wall at a corner.

House Inn. The path climbs beside a deep gully between

Here turn right on a broader path, cross the remains of an ancient

Headland Warren and Challacombe Down, then descends to

wall by two upright stones and ascend gradually to Hookney Tor;

rejoin the full route at Point 5. At the top look out for the stone

the tor is to the right of the first grass-covered outcrop.

row on the far side of the gully.

DARTMOOR 69

WALKING ON DARTMOOR

6

From the cross take a path going east-northeast, diverging at 45° from the road. After a dip it soon starts to climb

the shoulder of Birch Tor, passing a mound of stones shaped into a shelter. Over the broad top the path descends gradually then levels out and after nearly 1km reaches a minor road. Cross and continue east on an uphill path to reach the junction of ancient and more modern walls met on the outward route. Turn left. By the bend in the wall fork right and follow the path parallel with the wall as it contours round Shapley Common and eventually bears away from the wall to rejoin the outward path beside the hut circles. Walk north-northeast downhill back to the road and the car park.

One of the remaining buddles from Golden Dagger mine

4

Fork right, signed to Bennett’s Cross. The path now turns northwest below the west side of Challacombe Down, with

Soussons Farm and plantation visible to the left. Through a gate the path runs parallel with the West Webburn. Soon it passes a circular buddle, then the remains of a building (known as Dinah’s House), part of Golden Dagger tin mine. At a fork the left track leads to another ruined building; divert if you wish to look at it, but return to the fork to keep right up the valley, signed to Bennett’s Cross. Go through a gate and continue for 0.5km to pass more ruined buildings.

Bennett’s Cross

q

START

T be seen. Fork left onto a path to reach the road near the pub.

w

e

ALTERNATIVE A

t

If you’re stopping here, turn left on leaving and follow the road northeast (there’s open moorland alongside to walk on) for nearly 1km to reach Bennett’s Cross on the right.

Stay on the track and where it curves left turn right onto a

T

Alternative B

T

smaller path that continues north beside the stream. It weaves amongst tinning remains, climbing gradually. Past some trees it follows a gully, then leaves it to climb the right bank and continues through heather, just west of north. The path reaches the road at a small car park; Bennett’s Cross is just to the right.

70 DARTMOOR

r

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown Copyright: AM49/11

northwest towards the road and soon the Warren House Inn can

ALTERNATIVE B

T

the valley; the path meets it as it climbs the far side. It bears

T T

uphill path, or you can stay on the track as it curves round

T

A small clapper bridge over the stream left leads to an

T

5

T

y

The remains of a mine building at Golden Dagger

T

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NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL TRUST

Managing our deer populations By a Dartmoor National Trust Ranger impossible to count how many there are in the countryside: a rule of thumb being whatever you manage to count, double it.

To control the deer population it is essential to control the number of females, and the season for this is winter.

The work is carried out by qualified and Photograph JOHN WALES

experienced stalkers whose main concern

Young roe buck caught by surprise

I

is the welfare of the deer; we do not allow commercial or trophy stalking.

Our policy is to cull old, weak or injured individuals first, and to leave the best bucks to carry on the line.

I do not find it easy to shoot these wonderful animals, but I know I am doing it for the right reason and firmly believe

walk quietly and slowly into the

seen regularly in urban areas. I had a

that anybody who enjoys killing things

woods; around me the chill, damp

call from a lady in Plympton wanting

should not be allowed to do the job.

air smells of autumn. Water drips

advice because there was a large fallow

The reward is to have a reason to be out

from the trees after overnight rain,

buck living in her garden and she was

there at dawn, which has a very special

and spectres of mist rise from the valley.

frightened to hang out the washing.

feeling. All is quiet; the night has rested

Dawn arrives, the first shafts of sunlight

We hear tales of woe of gardens

the world; it is fresh and awaiting the

brightening the mist through the trees

being raided. One man had all the leaves

new day. The sunrise brings breathtaking

and spotlighting the beauty of golden

– not the beans – taken off his runner

beauty, the drip of rain on the leaf-

bracken.

beans; another lady all the flowers taken

strewn ground or the energy of a gale

off her rhododendrons. From experience

of wind blasting down the valley is just

of movement in the birch thicket alerts

my advice to them all is forget all the

enthralling. Snow when it comes opens

me and I freeze. Through the binoculars

electronic buzzers and so on; you need a

the book on the night with all the animal

I get a clear view of a white fallow buck;

well-maintained 7ft fence to keep deer

tracks telling their tales, and introduces a

as I watch a beautiful light-spotted fawn

out (or learn to live with them). That’s

whole new world of beauty.

walks in front of him, and then a larger

why we have a high fence around the

dark, almost black, buck appears. Slowly

garden at Castle Drogo.

I turn down the first ride. A touch

they move back into the cover and

The National Trust has always taken

The by-product of this management is venison, which we get processed locally and is available throughout the winter in

disappear. I draw breath and come back

the view that deer populations have to be

the tearoom at Castle Drogo – really good

to the real world – this is, I think, what

managed if the conservation value and

local food. ■

they call being ‘in the moment’.

long-term viability of our estate is to be

deer encounter out in the woods at dawn or dusk. However, for many of us our

protected. The need for management is greater now than ever.

This management is part of my

contact with deer is limited to a glimpse

role on our land around Dartmoor. Our

of a shape in the headlights at night,

policy is to undertake an Environmental

or surprised when crossing a ride in the

Impact Assessment of the damage the

woods. These chance encounters always

deer are doing. If this damage does not

excite and quicken the pulse.

interfere with our management aims

However, with cars and dogs being

Roe deer

we monitor the situation. If it does we

their only predators change is coming.

manage the population to bring damage

All over the country deer populations

back to an acceptable level. Because

are increasing; deer are now even

deer are so good at not being seen it is

72 DARTMOOR

Photograph ANON

This is possibly the classic image of a

For more information please go to http://dartmoor-nationaltrust.blogspot.com

Shopping, dining and events with the National Trust this Christmas

Castle Drogo, nr Drewsteignton

Shop and Cafe open every day, 11am-4pm (closed 24 to 26 December) Christmas is Coming!

Saturday 26 & Sunday 27 November and 3 & 4 December, 11am-4pm Christmas Feasting in the café Saturdays & Sundays 3,4,10,11,17 - 23 December, 11am–3pm Drogo Christmas Saturday 10 & Sunday 11 & Saturday 17 Friday 23 December, 11am–4pm

Lydford Gorge, nr Tavistock

Shop and Tearoom open Wednesday to Sunday, 10am-3pm until 23 December Outdoor gifts, Christmas fayre and a wide selection of gifts. Tearoom serving hot and cold drinks and light lunches.

Widecombe-in-the-Moor

Shop open daily from 10.30am-4pm until 23 December A wide selection of gifts, Christmas cards and seasonal treats on sale.

Widecombe celebrates Christmas Saturday 17 December

Get out and about with the National Trust this winter Downloadable walks at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/walks National Trust is an independent registered charity, number 205846 Photograph: NTPL/John Miller

news

from Dartmoor National Park Authority

In September 2011 Western Morning News photographer, Richard Austin, and landscape photographer, Adrian Oakes judged over 400 entries for DNPA’s 60th anniversary photographic competition, ‘Capturing Dartmoor’.

Both Richard and Adrian commented on the high standard of images submitted which made judging particularly difficult.

‘We spent hours deliberating over the photograph,’ explained Richard, ‘but what sets the winning entries apart is how they have captured the sense of place and illustrated how the photographer has waited for just the right moment.’

The winning entry of four ponies huddled together was submitted by David Hixon, who will join Adrian Oakes on a full-day landscape photography workshop.

The second prize of a large canvas from South West Colour Labs went to Alan Pewsey for his submission of horse riders on Hameldown. The third prize of £60 worth of vouchers to use at Mifsuds photographic supplies was awarded to David Lee for his image ‘Golden Rubble’.

Over 40 entries were received in the under-18 category. The winning entry, a sunset by Tim Baber, received a large canvas from South West Colour Labs.

‘The standard of entries was so high that an additional three photographs were chosen for a Highly Commended award,’ explained Adrian Oakes. The winners – Andy Cole, Peter Bailey and Ron Quilter – all received copies of the new book by Andrew Cooper, Dartmoor – A celebration of its people, places and wildlife.

All the competition entries can be viewed on www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk (go to About Us and follow the links to

Photograph © DNPA

Special qualities of Dartmoor captured on camera

1st prize: David Hixon, Huddled Together

2nd prize: Alan Pewsey, Riders on Hameldown

3rd prize: David Lee, Golden Rubble

Highly commended: Andy Cole, Windy Post

Highly commended: Peter Bailey, Evening at Sheepstor

Highly commended: Ron Quilter, Peter Tavy village

1st prize under-18s: Tim Baber, Sunset (detail)

‘Capturing Dartmoor’).

74 DARTMOOR

NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY

New book celebrates 60th Anniversary At the end of October a new book was published to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Dartmoor National Park.

Dartmoor National Park – a celebration of its people, places and wildlife by Andrew High Moorland Visitor Centre, Princetown

Cooper highlights the beauty, wildlife and the cultural heritage of Dartmoor’s special landscape and celebrates the people

National Park Visitor Centre winter opening times

who live and work there.

High Moorland Visitor Centre,

on the livestock, history and wildlife of the open moor, bog, woodland, farmland

Princetown Tel: (01822) 890414, email: hmvc@dartmoor-npa.gov.uk Open Thursday–Sunday 10.30am– 3.30pm – November to February Open daily 10am–4pm – March (except 5–9 March inclusive) For Christmas period and February half term please phone for details.

Admission charge for exhibition areas: adult £1.50, child (7–16) £1, family ticket £3, education group free National Park Information Centre, Postbridge Tel: (01822) 880272,

The book paints a colourful picture of Dartmoor today, through stories by people passionate about their work and life on the moors, and includes chapters and rivers. The stories and beautiful images provide a fascinating insight into the past 60 years and demonstrate the immense benefits and enjoyment the National Park provides to the local community and visitors alike.

Andrew Cooper is Chairman of the Devon Wildlife Trust. A broadcaster, presenter, writer and international award-winning wildlife film-maker, he is a familiar face on BBC television and author of eight books, including The Secret Nature of Devon.

READER OFFER READER OFFER

Dartmoor National Park – a celebration of its people, places and wildlife by Andrew Dartmoor National Park – a celebration of its people, places and wildlife by Andrew Cooper is published by Green Books in partnership with Dartmoor National Park, Cooper is published by Green Books in partnership with Dartmoor National Park, RRP £10.95 p/b. Readers of Dartmoor Magazine can buy it at £2 off, with free p&p RRP £10.95 p/b. Readers of Dartmoor Magazine can buy it at £2 off, with free p&p (UK only). Call 0845 458 9910 or visit www.greenbooks.co.uk and quote RODM1 (UK only). Call 0845 458 9910 or visit www.greenbooks.co.uk and quote RODM1 on the phone or at website checkout. Closing date 31 December. on the phone or at website checkout. Closing date 31 December.

email: postbridge@dartmoor-npa.gov.uk Closed November to March inclusive National Park Information Centre, Haytor Tel: (01364) 661520, email: haytor@dartmoor-npa.gov.uk Open Thursday–Sunday 10.30am– 3.30pm – November to February Open daily 10am–4pm – March For Christmas period and February half term please phone for details.

is part of the Park’s 60th anniversary celebrations.

Classes of children from Woodlands Park, Hennock, South Tawton, Horrabridge and Moretonhampstead primary schools were taken out onto Dartmoor to help inspire their work.

Pupils from six different classes (a total of 140 children of different ages and abilities) used their experiences to create pictures, prints, poetry, stories, maps and models, all of which can now be seen

Schools exhibition online

on the DNPA website. Much care was

A superb online children’s exhibition

taken to get every child that came out to

has just been added to DNPA’s website.

contribute something.

DNPA staff have worked with teachers

Visit www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk and

and pupils from five Dartmoor primary

click on learning about lab-exhibitions

schools to create the exhibition which

60th-art-exhibition.

Granite and Gears A new leaflet has been produced by DNPA in partnership with the Mosaic Project to promote an exciting off-road cycling route. The leaflet was researched and written by two Mosaic Youth Champions and is based on a 20km circuit from Princetown, around Burrator reservoir and returning to Princetown via South Hessary Tor. As well as providing route information, the brochure contains top tips for enjoying mountain biking on Dartmoor, advice on responsible riding and safety information.

The leaflet will be on sale at National Park Information Centres and online shop, and is available as a free download from www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk.

DARTMOOR 75

NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY

Endangered plant clings on in Dartmoor National Park

up and down the steep slopes where it

The nationally scarce Deptford pink has

knees and carefully counting individual

declined dramatically over the last 60

plants! Despite careful management of

years – one of the most rapid declines

the sites by reducing competition from

of any species of British flora. Of the

encroaching scrub, and scarifying the

is found, getting down on hands and

soil surface, the plants

around Buckfastleigh

appear to be in decline

where these beautiful

on two sites. The third

plants exist it has been

site, however, is proving

discovered that the plants

very successful, with a

are declining in all but

three-fold increase in

Photograph NORMAN BALDOCK

three Dartmoor sites

one location.

Dianthus armeria is an exquisite, vulnerable plant. The flowers are stalkless and a startling pink colour, about 1cm in diameter. Although the plant is native to most

Deptford pink

numbers between 2010 and 2011.

Naomi Barker said: ‘It is possible that this increase is due to the hot and dry weather conditions earlier in the year: these are conditions

of Europe it is only found in 34 sites in

that the Deptford pink can tolerate

Britain. It grows in dry pastures, prefers

more than other plants, thus reducing

disturbed ground and light sandy soils,

competition from its neighbours. The

and is one of the priority species in the

slope on which the increase was found

Dartmoor Biodiversity Action Plan.

is more exposed than the other two and

In late summer 2011 Dartmoor National Park ecologist, Naomi Barker, together with a National Park Ranger and voluntary wardens, undertook annual monitoring at the three sites.

Surveying this plant means scrambling

Conservation Works Service South Brent Old Cemetery The small piece of land between the lychgate and the road, at the old cemetery, was a mixture of concrete, weeds and gravel. It has now been transformed with the introduction of granite setts, improving its visual appearance and making access easier. The project also included repairs and repointing of the cemetery wall.

Car Parks Surface repairs and maintenance have been carried out on car parks at Dunnabridge, King’s Oven (Warren House Inn), Nun’s Cross Quarry, Plasterdown, Blackdown and Fatherford.

Chagford Leat, silt trap DNPA was approached by the Parish Council at Chagford to see if we could help prevent flooding in certain areas of the town. The problem was generally 76 DARTMOOR

it is possible that the drought effects were most pronounced here. With the decline of the plant on other sites it is now very important to keep a close eye on this particular population and try and manage it to ensure its survival.’

debris and deposits washing down the leat and blocking the pipe where the leat entered a culvert. In an attempt to alleviate the situation the Authority’s Conservation Works team built a granite silt trap upstream, adjacent to the Health Centre. The project was partly funded by the Dartmoor Trust.

Blackingstone Rock Following the annual inspection of the steps leading to the top of the tor the Conservation Works Team has made repairs, enabling continued access to this wonderful viewpoint.

South Brent Toll House Following a talk given by the Head of Conservation Works to the South Brent Action Group the Team were asked to assist with siting the mechanism of an 18th-century clock face (thought to be the second oldest in the southwest) in the Old Toll House at South Brent.

Importance of Crossing’s resting place recognised DNPA’s Conservation Works Team has begun a programme of vital work to protect important headstones in Mary Tavy churchyard, the resting place of famous Dartmoor writer William Crossing.

The monuments were on the listed buildings ‘At Risk’ register. Work has also been carried out on a group of trees in close proximity to William Crossing’s grave. The work is part of planned works to improve the setting of his grave and a precursor to further enhancement ideas to acknowledge this much-respected local historian and writer on all things Dartmoor. The grave is also in need of attention as the headstone and enclosing curb are suffering from movement. Work for improving access and clarifying the Public Right of Way with a new granite waymarker showing an appropriate route through the churchyard and access to the Crossing grave will also take place.

William Crossing’s Guide to Dartmoor was first published in 1909 and continues to be recognised as one of the most important guides to Dartmoor ever produced. He resided in Mary Tavy for a number of years towards the end of his life.

Adam Burton – Celebrating National Parks Dartmoor has long been a lure for photographers and artists alike, and for good reason; it offers spectacular and unique wild country unlike anywhere else in England. As part of the celebrations of DNPA’s 60th anniversary, Adam will be showcasing an exhibition ‘Celebrating National Parks’ at the High Moorland Visitor Centre in Princetown until 4 March 2012. www.adamburtonphotography.com ■

Photograph © DNPA

reviews

BOOK REVIEWS

BOOK

John Earle examines some recent publications The Field Archaeology of Dartmoor Phil Newman English Heritage 2011 p/b Illustrated £30 ISBN 978 1 84802 033 7 Readers of the autumn issue of this magazine will have seen a report on the publication of this important book. Every now and again major works such as this are published and are vital for an understanding of the impact of man in the history of Dartmoor.

It is beautifully produced with a great many outstanding photographs, many from the air which show up archaeological remains so well, maps, diagrams and sketches. This important and exceptional book should be on the bookshelves of all who are interested in Dartmoor.

Killers on the Moor – The case of the Dartmoor Ponies and beyond Mike Freebury Book Guild Publishing 2011 h/b Illustrated £17.99 ISBN 978 1 84624 584 8 Every now and again the most extraordinary books turn up on my desk for review. This is one of them.

The story starts on Easter Monday 1977 when a family walking near White Tor were horrified to come across the dead, twisted bodies of four Dartmoor ponies. Their necks and backs appeared to have been broken.

The family soon discovered more mutilated ponies about a hundred yards away that had also been killed violently, making a total of 15 dead bodies. The Police and RSPCA were alerted, but even after detailed investigations they were unable to give any convincing account as to what had happened.

Mike Freebury heard about this incident in a broadcast in 2000 and started to make investigations. He was to discover that horrific, unexplained animal deaths had been occurring all over the world for many years. He became fascinated by the phenomenon and began lengthy and wellresearched investigations. Reluctantly he came to startling conclusions: the mutilations appeared to be a sampling programme by an extraterrestrial intelligence, and the evidence was being systematically covered up and denied by government departments worldwide.

This book sets out the evidence after meticulous research using logic and facts to present the case. Chapter after chapter reveal messages from outer space, mystery explosions, strange craft, black helicopters, dead sheep scrolls, UFOs, lights at night, the beast of Bodmin, the black dog, the September massacre of sheep and so on.

Mike Freebury spent many nights of surveillance on the moor to try to collect more evidence to support his case. You must make of it what you will, but it is a fascinating read.

Rendezvous in Princetown – Bicentenary 1809–2009 Alain, Monique Sibiril and Trevor James 2011 p/b Illustrated £5 ISBN 978 1 89896 490 2 This fascinating little book has one half written in English and the other half (if you turn the book over and start at the back) written in French.

There is, in Princetown, a cemetery with a memorial to the more than 1200 French prisoners of war who died there during the Napoleonic Wars (1813–15).

In order to mark the bicentenary of the opening of the prison in May 2009 and pay tribute to the forgotten French dead, the Honorary Consul for France at Plymouth, Alain Sibiril, and his wife Monique with the help of Trevor James, a local author who joined the prison Works Department, decided to commemorate the event and pay homage to the French PoWs. This book is an account of the significant and spectacular celebrations that took place in Princetown on 24 May 2009; probably the most impressive event ever seen in this Dartmoor village. A huge amount of research over seven years went into the preparations but the result was extraordinary: a gathering of large contingents from the French Navy, Royal Navy, Prison Officers, representatives from the French Army and British and French Police, the Royal British Legion and many more including clergy, mayors and other French and Devon dignitaries – and even some relatives of those French who were held in the prison.

The book is illustrated with excellent photographs by Tracey Elliot-Reep and Nick Randall to augment a remarkable account of an important day in the history of Princetown and Dartmoor Prison.

Dartmoor Wilderness Walks Compiled by Simon Dell The Dartmoor Company 2011 p/b Illustrated £8.50 ISBN 978 0 9555150 5 7 Simon Dell needs no introduction to Dartmoor walkers as he is a Dartmoor National Park Guide, worked with the Dartmoor Rescue Group for almost 20 years and served as a police officer for 30 years, mainly in West Devon and Dartmoor.

This excellent little book comprises of nine circular walks with 5- or 10-mile options plus a long two-day east–west challenge of Dartmoor. The walks have been taken from a series previously written for Dartmoor News and take the walker deep into the heart of the moor: wilderness indeed.

Spiral bound and printed on almost indestructible card the guide is small enough to slip into a pocket. The routes are clearly marked on OS maps; the written directions are concise and easy to follow with a mass of interesting information. Map references are given for the salient features, and most useful are the walk profiles (a visual representation of the ups and downs), something which I have not seen in guidebooks before. The colour photographs, taken by Simon and Paul Rendell, are very good.

This is a welcome edition to the many Dartmoor walking guides and a beautifully produced book.

DARTMOOR 77

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

CROSSWORD COMPILED BY AILEEN CARRETT

ACROSS 1 Devon city of famous slow bowler (8) 4 Time is up! Give out (4) 8 Ring for the great and the good (4) 10 Mine where a pack animal, and one from the flock are found together (8) 11 Hold firm for potato stocks (5) 12 Insignia gives weapons to musicians (7) 13 A good seam would warrant a visit to one of these (8–5) 17 Rustic could describe tray he produced (6) 18 It is therefore in purer gold (4) 19 Stop between verses (7) 20 Uncultivated moorland features in the athlete’s training plan (5) 21 Blow could make one spin (4) 22 One instrument navigates, and ‘does it all with mirrors’ (1–7)

DOWN 2 French name used more to classify Dartmoor dwellers (7) 3 Their assistance is legendary when going ‘off road’ on Dartmoor (3–5) 5 Targeted, turned to communicating with many people (5) 6 Colour co-ordinated and noted (5) 7 Theme takes a novice for personal protection (6) 9 Share sounds excessive (5) 13 Robin’s self-confessed murderer (7) 14 Roman took north first then all of Britain (7) 15 River on the moor made Tom keen (7) 16 Thing to consider in the darkest hours (5) 17 Fine landscape beginning to unfold for little people (5)

Thursday 1 December The Story of some West Dartmoor Farms (talk) Dr Tom Greeves. 7pm, Devon Rural Archive, Shilstone. Tickets £5.

Tel: (01548) 830832, email: abi@dra.uk.net Surveying Birds in South Africa (talk) Ray Lovett (RSPB). 1.30pm, Prince of Wales, Tavistock Road, Princetown. Civil Service Retirement Fellowship event.

Thursday 1–Saturday 24 December Pennywell Farm Nativity plays, Father Christmas and his reindeer.

Tel: (01364) 642023. www.pennywellfarm.co.uk Friday 2 December Christmas Lights Switch On and Late Night Opening, Ivybridge From 6pm; switch on 6.45pm. Parade, market, stalls, street entertainment.

78 DARTMOOR

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Answers on page 81

DIARY DECEMBER

1

This Diary relies on people telling the Editor – tel: (01647) 441174, email: editor@dartmoormagazine. co.uk – what’s going on over the next few months – insertion is free! Copy date for the Spring 2012 Dairy (1 March – covering March, April and May 2012) is Monday 23 January 2012.

Saturday 3 December Chagford Christmas Fair 10am– midday Church and Endecott House.

Tel: (01647) 432304.

Sunday 4 December Christmas Fair and Tabletop Sale, Hennock £5 per table.

Tel: (01626) 832833.

Brentor Christmas Fair Village Hall.

Tuesday 6 December AGM and Christmas Meeting Princetown History Club. Prince of Wales pub, 7.30pm.

Tel: (01647) 231080.

Advent Market and Christmas Bazaar, Ivybridge From10.30am.

Vintage cars, street entertainment, Watermark and town centre.

Saturdays & Sundays (3, 4, 10, 11, 17, 18), Tuesday 20–Friday 23 December Santa by Steam South Devon Railway, Buckfastleigh. Booking essential, tel: 0845 345 1420, email: sales@southdevon.org www.southdevonrailway.co.uk Saturdays & Sundays (3, 4, 10, 11, 17, 18), Friday 23 & Saturday 24 December Santa Specials Dartmoor Railway, Okehampton.

Tel: (01837) 55164, email: info@dartmoor-railway.co.uk www.dartmoor-railway.co.uk

Tuesday 6–Thursday 8 December Carols down the Line South Devon Railway 7pm Buckfastleigh Station; coffee and mince pies.

Booking via www.carolsdowntheline.org,uk.

Wednesday 7 December Christmas in Devon – traditions and customs (talk) Todd Gray.

Church House, Widecombe.

Widecombe & District Local History Group, tel: (01364) 621246 www. widecombe-in-the-moor.com/history Carol service, Ivybridge 6.30– 8.30pm EST Donkey Centre, Filham Park. Music, refreshments, shop.

Tel: (01752) 690200.

Wednesday 7, Wednesday 28–Saturday 31 December Mince Pie Specials Dartmoor Railway, Okehampton.

Tel: (01837) 55164, email: info@dartmoor-railway.co.uk www.dartmoor-railway.co.uk Thursday 8 December Footprints of a Gigantic Hound (talk) Bob Mann. Dartmoor in fiction from Anna Eliza Bray to Laurie R. King. 7.30pm, Methodist Hall, Fore Street, Totnes. £1.50 members, £3 non-members.

Totnes Museum Society.

Edwardian Evening, Okehampton 5.30–9pm. Festive late night shopping; carol service at 7pm, Red Lion Yard.

Tel: (01837) 52937.

Saturday 10 December Stone Facing Plymbridge Woods, Estover, Plymouth. Landranger 201, SX 522588. Instructor Bruce Baker, tel: (01364) 72172. Please note that site can only be approached from

the Estover direction Courses 9.30am to 4.30pm, wear outdoor clothes and sturdy footwear, bring packed lunch.

DRST members £15, non members £25 per day. Enquiries and booking contact Mick Godfrey, tel: (01548) 821156.

The Dartmoor Society Winter Revel 7.30–11.30pm Jubilee Hall, Chagford, hosted by ‘Footloose’. £12 per head including buffet supper. Tickets from Sally’s in The Square, Chagford, or contact info@dartmoorsociety.com or tel: (01822) 617004 for further information.

The Four Seasons (Haydn) Chagford Singers. 7.30pm Chagford Parish Church.

Westwood Hall Craft Fair Charter Hall, Okehampton. Refreshments.

Tel: 07753 478290.

Christmas Fair 10am–3pm EST Donkey Centre, Filham Park. Donkey carriage rides, refreshments, shop.

Tel: (01752) 690200.

Sunday 11 December Conservation Work/Walk Bellever.

See In the News Monday 12–Saturday 17 December Moorland Merrymakers ‘Treasure Island’ Leusdon Memorial Hall. 7.30pm; family matinee Saturday 10 December 6pm. To book tickets tel: (01364) 631223; adult £6, child £3.

Tuesday 13 December Late Night Christmas Shopping, Chagford From 5.30–8pm.

Tel: (01647) 433276.

Wednesday 14 December Dartmoor history, wildlife and legend (talk) Bovey Tracey. Tony Burge, 7.30pm, RC Church Hall, Ashburton Road. £3 donation. Bovey Tracey DWT. Thursday 15 December Late Night Christmas Shopping, Ashburton Until 8pm.

CSRF Princetown Christmas Lunch and Party Details/reservations tel: (01822) 890799.

Saturday 17 December Sheelanagig Charity gig, Jubilee Hall. 8.30pm. Proceeds to Farms for City Children. Tickets £10/£8 advance from Sally’s Newsagents. www.mrsnevillesnightout.com Sunday 18 December Annual Christmas Walk Burrator Reservoir. 11am–1pm approx. Booking essential: tel: (01566) 771930. www.swlakestrust.org.uk Monday 19–Friday 23 December Princetown Pre-school Christmas Club See In the News.

Thursday 22 December Late Night Christmas Shopping, Ashburton Until 8pm.

Wednesday 28 December In Search of Aircraft (walk) Paul Rendell. 10am–3pm, 10 miles over rough terrain: Corn Ridge, Tiger Marsh and West Ockment Valley. Bring packed lunch and drink, outdoor clothing and suitable footwear. Adults £8. Start Prewley Treatment Works, Sourton (SX 544910); parking area up small track off A386 (signed Granite Way), ¾ mile north of Sourton village. No dogs. Tel: (01837) 54727. www.paulrendelldartmoor.co.uk Wednesday 28 December–Monday 2 January 2012 Mince Pie Specials South Devon Railway.

www.southdevonrailway.co.uk

JANUARY Tuesday 3 January Roads and Bridges of Dartmoor (talk) Paul Rendell, Princetown History Club. 7.30pm, Princetown Community Centre. Tel: (01647) 231080.

Wednesday 4 January Photo Presentation and New Year’s Party Mike Wright. Church House, Widecombe. Widecombe & District Local History Group, tel: (01364) 621246 www.widecombein-the-moor.com/history Thursday 5 January Barnado’s Children’s Charity (talk) Mo Harris. 1.30pm, Prince of Wales, Tavistock Road, Princetown.

CS Retirement Fellowship event.

Saturday 7 January A walk across the moor taking in 14 Dartmoor Crosses and covering about 14km. For more info please contact Spirit of Adventure (Powdermills) Tel: (01822) 880277 or go to www.spirit-of-adventure.com.

Wednesday 11 January Fungi – fact, fiction and folklore (talk) Bovey Tracey. Phil Page, 7.30pm, RC Church Hall, Ashburton Road. £3 donation. Bovey Tracey DWT. Thursday 12 January Landscape and the Picturesque: Photographing Dartmoor in the 1860s and 1870s (talk) Tom Greeves.

Totnes Museum Society.

See 8 December.

Saturday 14 January Annual River Leat Clean Ivybridge.

PL21. www.pl21.weebly.com Tuesday 17 January The Roman Southwest (talk) Derek Gore. 7.30pm, Meavy Village Hall. Yelverton & District Local History Society. www.yelvertonhistory.org.uk

PHOTOGRAPH SUE VICCARS

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

Wednesday 18 January Ivybridge Business Fair The Watermark, Erme Court.

Tel: (01752) 892220.

Saturday 21 January Conservation Work Bellever. See In the News.

FEBRUARY Wednesday 1 February Dartmoor Birds (talk) Richard Hibbert. Church House, Widecombe.

Widecombe & District Local History Group, tel: (01364) 621246 www. widecombe-in-the-moor.com/history Thursday 2 February Devon and Cornwall Police Authority (talk) Guest speaker.

1.30pm, Prince of Wales, Tavistock Road, Princetown. Civil Service Retirement Fellowship event.

Tuesday 7 February Dartmoor ‘Dressed’ Granite (talk) Roger Paul, Princetown History Club.

7.30pm, Princetown Community Centre.

Tel: (01647) 231080.

Wednesday 8 February Devon Wildlife Quiz Bovey Tracey.

Teams of four, 7.30pm, RC Church Hall, Ashburton Road. £3 donation. Bovey Tracey DWT. Sharks – threats and challenges for a sustainable future (talk) Tavistock. John Richardson (Shark Trust), 7.30pm, Parish Church Centre, Plymouth Road.

Tel: (01822) 613628. Tavistock DWT. Saturday 11 February Hedge Laying Midland Style Hooe Primary School, Plymstock. Landranger 201, SX 497525. Instructor Maxine McAdams, tel: (01752) 863342. DRST course: see 10 December.

Sunday 12 February The Wild North Moor (walk) Paul Rendell. 10am–3pm, 10 miles, visiting Oke Tor, Steeperton Tor, Wild Tor, Hangingstone Hill. Details as 28 December. Start Okehampton Moor Car Park (SX 592922); pass army camp and cross brook at river, park at top of hill at right of fork. No dogs.

Tel: (01837) 54727.

Saturday 18 February Conservation Work Bellever. See In the News.

Bird Watching Walk Roadford Lake.

Tony John, 10am–1pm. Meet Lakeside Visitor car park; bring binoculars. £3 donation. Details tel: (01822) 613628.

Tavistock DWT. Sunday 19 February 12 Across and 2 Down Walk Search and Rescue Team Plymouth. Along part of the Maltern Way. For details contact Richard Thorne, Fordhams, Station Road, Mary Tavy PL19 9PQ (please include SAE), tel: (01822) 810535, email: rgt347@btinternet.com or (for information) dsrtplymouth@hotmail.co.uk Tuesday 21 February Murders in Devon (talk) Simon Dell.

7.30pm, Meavy Village Hall. Yelverton & District Local History Society. www.yelvertonhistory.org.uk Sunday 26 Feburary Andrews Corner Garden Belstone.

‘Snowdrop Sunday’ in aid of Children’s Hospice Southwest 11am–4pm.

Email: edwinarobinhill@btinternet.com, tel: 01837 840332 www.belstonevillage.net.

MARCH Saturday 3 March Cleft Gate Hurdles Kelly Woods, Kelly, Lifton. Landranger 201, SX 395815 (or Woodah Farm. Instructor Don Gaskins, tel: (01752) 336049. DRST course: see 10 December.

Saturday 10 March Around the Teign (walk) Paul Rendell. 10am–3pm, 10 miles, visiting Stone Tor, Teign Head Farm, Watern Tor and River Teign. Details as 28 December. Start Batworthy Corner near Chagford, SX 662865; parking at end of lane. No dogs.

Tel: (01837) 54727.

Moretonhampstead Food Festival Events around the town.

DARTMOOR 79

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

MARKET DATES

Castle Drogo Drewsteignton

Ashburton Local Produce Market 9.30am–3pm weekly Tuesday to Saturday at Tuckers Yard Tel: (01364) 643836

Tel: (01647) 433306 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/castledrogo Saturday & Sunday 3, 4, 10, 11 & 17 December Christmas Feasting 11am–3pm. Choose as much as you want to eat from a selection of festive food in our café, all freshly made from the finest local produce. From £8.95.

Saturdays & Sundays 3, 4, 10, 11 & 17–Friday 23 December Father Christmas Teas 3–4.30pm. FatherChristmas-inspired teas at the café.

Tuesday 6 December Christmas Calligraphy Illumination Workshop Judith Richardson-Dawes, 11am4pm. For all abilities. Includes coffee, lunch and tuition. £35 per person; booking essential, tel: (01647) 434144.

Saturday 10, Sunday 11, Saturday 17–Friday 23 December Drogo Christmas 11am–4pm. Return to the 1930s; see parts of the castle traditionally decorated and visit Father Christmas: children can receive a special present (11am–3.30pm).

Winter admission plus £2 for FC per child inc.

NT members.

Bovey Tracey Produce Market 8.30am–1.30pm, Town Square, alternate Saturdays www.boveytracey.gov.uk/events Buckfastleigh Farmers’ Market 9am–1pm Town Hall, every Thursday Tel: (01803) 762764 Chagford Flea Market 10am–1pm Jubilee Hall, every Friday Hittisleigh Market 10am–12pm, Village Hall, alternate Saturdays

Manaton Market 10.30am–12.30pm Parish Hall, third Tuesday

Tuesday 13 December Devonport Leat

Okehampton Farmers’ Market 9am–1.30m St James’ Chapel Square, third Saturday Tel: (01409) 221991 www.okehamptonfarmersmarket.co.uk

Saturday 17 December Raddick Hill

Dartmoor Countryside

Tavistock Pannier Market 9am–4pm Tuesday–Saturday www.tavistockpanniermarket.co.uk

Friday 13 January 2012 Parke: Wassailing 6.30–8.30pm. Join in the traditional activities to improve the health of the orchard! Bring pots and pans. Joint event with DNPA; for information

tel: (01626) 834748.

Monday 13 February Parke: Scarecrow Day 11am–3.30pm; sessions at 11am, 12.30pm and 2pm. Make your own scarecrow! The winner of each session will win a prize and their scarecrow will work in the walled garden. Some materials supplied; bring anything you think might be useful. £3 per child. Booking essential,

tel: (01626) 834748,

email: parke@nationaltrust.org.uk.

For all events and activities children must be accompanied by an adult. Wear stout footwear and appropriate clothing. For evening events please bring a torch.

80 DARTMOOR

Sunday 4 December High House Waste Thursday 8 December Devonport Leat

South Tawton Local Produce and Craft Market Church House, second Saturday Tel: (01837) 840085

Thursday 8 December Plymbridge and the Upper Plym: Industries of Dewerstone 1–3pm. Explore the woodland’s history and discover the industrial uses of charcoal, iron and clay. Meet at Shaugh Bridge, SX 533637. £4 per adult, £2 per child.

Booking advisable, tel: (01752) 341377, email: dartmoor@nationaltrust.org.uk.

CONSERVATION WORK PROGRAMME

Ivybridge Country Market 8.30–11.30am, The Scout Hut, St Leonard’s Road, every Friday

Tuesday 27 December–Sunday 1 January 2012 Wind Down and Warm Up 11am–4pm. Relax after Christmas with a walk; try something from our winter warm-up menu; sale offers in our shop; add a New Year resolution to our resolution tree; children’s trail around the gardens (£1.50 per trail inc. prize).

See individual events for contact details.

Volunteers are always welcome to join DPA’s ongoing conservation projects.

For more information see www. dartmoorpreservation.com, contact the DPA office, tel: (01822) 890646 or email fsenior@dartmoorpreservation.com.

Tavistock Farmers’ Market 9am–1pm Bedford Square, second and fourth Saturdays www.tavistockfarmersmarket.com

Tedburn St Mary Market 10am–noon Village Hall, third Saturday Whiddon Down Produce Market Village Hall, fourth Saturday Widecombe-in-the-Moor Village Market 9.30am–3pm Church House, usually fourth Saturday www.widecombe-in-the-moor.com/market

Sunday 8 January 2012 High House Waste Friday 13 January Raddick Hill Friday 20 January Devonport Leat Wednesday 25 January Raddick Hill Sunday 5 February High House Waste Friday 10 February Devonport Leat Wednesday 15 February Leeden/Raddick Friday 24 February Devonport Leat Sunday 4 March High House Waste

PHOTOGRAPH SUE VICCARS

NATIONAL TRUST EVENTS

People, Places and Pursuits

CROSSWORD ANSWERS ACROSS 1 Plymouth 4 Emit 8 Halo 10 Hemerdon 11 Clamp 12 Armband 13 Stannary towns 17 Earthy 18 Ergo 19 Refrain 20 Heath 21 Wind 22 A sextant

DOWN 2 Moormen 3 The Hairy Hands 5 Media 6 Toned 7 Helmet 9 Allot 13 Sparrow 14 Norman 15 Okement 16 Night 17 Elfin

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DARTMOOR 81

the last word

TONY BEARD’S

LAST WORD

Public transport and the ‘Big Society’

Y

Tony Beard – the ‘Wag from Widecombe’, and a well-known figure both on Dartmoor and across Devon – held the office of president of the Devonshire Association (founded in 1862 by William Pengelly of Torquay) from June 2008 to June 2009. For more information visit www.devonassoc.org.uk

82 DARTMOOR

er, I’m fed up hearing about the ‘Big Society’ and the ‘Carbon Footprint’.

There has always been a Big Society in Devon, and particularly on Dartmoor. To hear these politicians talk you would think that they’ve invented something new! Just like when they tell about recycling, it’s bin with us for years.

I’m no political animal meself. Politicians say one thing then do another – Oh! I be a proper sceptic! If I had my way I’d get rid of most of them and replace ‘em with a few people with ‘common sense’ – yer anyone out there willing to stand for ‘The Common Sense Party’? You’d get my vote!

Then there’s carbon emissions. The Carbon Footprint! When I was a buye that was what Mother called it when the chimney sweep left ‘es boot mark on the sitting-room carpet after he’d swept the chimney!

They tell us to use public transport to help save the world. Yes, us’ll do that if they can tell us where tis to be found. Some more lip service from they, driving about in their chauffer-driven limousines. That’s a bit more carbon me thinks – a case of the ‘crock callin’ the kettle black’, don’t ‘ee think? Well, use the trains then. Haven’t they noticed most of the local ones have disappeared too. God’s Wonderful Railway (GWR) that used to serve Devon well. Remember that lovely journey from Yelverton to Princetown? Just imagine what a tourist attraction that would be if ‘twas still up and running. The success of the Dart Valley Railway is a fine example of what could have been. The other rural tracks associated with Dartmoor – Lustleigh, Ashburton, Lydford, Moretonhampstead – just to mention a few, now all gone.

All these rail tracks would have their own tales to tell and a place in history. Hundreds, no thousands, perhaps millions of rabbits transported all over the country, ‘exported’ from Dartmoor during World War II, contributed to the war effort, as well as trucks of livestock from markets.

Farming and tourism, the two important industries of the southwest and particularly

Dartmoor, and the locals too, could be benefiting from these trains if they were still in place. My uncle used to run a bus service from Widecombe to Ashburton and Newton Abbot via Ponsworthy and Poundsgate, while the Potter family ran Tor Buses from Widecombe to Newton Abbot via Haytor, Liverton and Ilsington. There were lots of these rural bus services.

Tis no wonder now that some of our more senior members of these moorland communities move away from their Dartmoor homes and live in Bovey Tracey or Ashburton and the like.

Many of them do not have a car at their disposal, so they have to hire a taxi or rely on their kind neighbours – ah! yes, here comes the ‘Big Society’ – bless ‘em all!

Many parishes have their own stories to tell no doubt, but I hope that you’ll excuse me for referring to Widecombe, as it is where I live and know the situation best. We do have a regular bus service – hurrah! you’ll all shout. Hang on a minute: tis only one day a week. Aw! Yes tis on a Wednesday, that’s because historically Wednesday was Market Day in Newton Abbot.

It leaves Widecombe at about half past nine, gets to Newton ‘bout half past ten and leaves again to get back to Widecombe by three ‘ish.

Tis better than ‘nort, but if us got friends or relations that want to visit us… Us got to keep ‘em a week before us can get rid of ‘em again!

The ‘Big Society’ tis all lip service and they politicians don’t convince me one little bit.

Sounds a bit like a ‘Busman’s Holiday’ – ‘Git on yer bike’ – where’ve I yeard that before?

‘Course there’s always ‘Shanks’s Pony’! ■

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