Dartmoor Magazine by Simon Lloyd

Established 1985 www.dartmoormagazine.co.uk

People, places and pursuits

Issue 110 Spring 2013 £3.25

Yelverton Open for business

Walks Lustleigh Cleave Springtime in Sheepstor

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Moor Trees at HMP Dartmoor

Plus

The Cribbetts of Princetown Photography Workshop Nick Baker • Anton Coaker • Tony Beard • Buckl and Food Growers The Garden House • ‘Hunted witches and elusive hares’

Covering all aspects of Dartmoor

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From the Editor Dartmoor Magazine is published by Edgemoor Publishing Limited Wykeham House, 3 Station Road, Okehampton, Devon EX20 1DY 01837 659224

EDITORIAL PUBLISHER Simon Lloyd simon@dartmoormagazine.co.uk EDITOR Sue Viccars editor@dartmoormagazine.co.uk ART EDITOR Simon Lloyd simon@dartmoormagazine.co.uk ADMINISTRATION Jenny How jenny@dartmoormagazine.co.uk

Welcome

A new year brings the chance to have a rethink about magazine content, and to look at my list of ‘future features’ to see what’s in the pipeline for publication over the next few issues. Whereas there’s no

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point in changing things for the sake of it, it’s time too to consider what new series might sit comfortably in the magazine, and what fresh aspects of life on Dartmoor might be covered. To that end in this issue we’re starting a new ‘Dartmoor Photography Workshop’ series with Andrew Gilbert, providing practical tips for all those keen to take better photos of our beautiful area. ‘In the Garden’ has a new look, and for this year will

Dartmoor Magazine is published quarterly every March, June, September and December. Copy date for each issue is approximately six weeks before publication.

focus on local gardens open to the public: we start with the magical Garden

Dartmoor Magazine is printed by Warners Midlands The Maltings Manor Lane Bourne PE10 9PH

Dartmoor which not only benefits inmates but should eventually improve

House, ‘a garden of dreams’ in the Tavy Valley to the west of the moor. But there is plenty of ‘true Dartmoor’ information in this issue too. Graham Burton, director of Moor Trees, talks about a fascinating partnership with HMP visitor access to Duchy of Cornwall land around the prison; Colin and Heather Ridgers have been out researching Dartmoor’s rabbit warrens. Simon Dell looks at ‘cobra head’ boundary markers, and Deborah Martin’s walk (should, depending on the weather!) encounter carpets of bluebells in Burrator Wood

Subscription rates £16.50 UK: From £23.50 overseas The editor is always pleased to consider material for publication. Any transparencies, prints and copy sent by post must be accompanied by an SAE for their return. Material that is on offer elsewhere cannot be accepted. It must be original and not infringe the copyright of others. Authors and contributors must have obtained the copyright holder or archive’s permission to use any photographs, drawings or maps etc submitted. We are unable to accept poetry or fiction. The views expressed by contributors to Dartmoor Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor. DISCLAIMER Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that adverts and articles appear correctly. Edgemoor Publishing cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. IMPORTANT NOTICE No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system (including CDs) or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher.

near Sheepstor. While talking of future features I recently attended the Dartmoor Mires Research and Monitoring Seminar, held at Exeter University. Frances Cooper of DNPA reported on the early stages of the Dartmoor Mires Project in the autumn 2011 issue, and it was good to learn about progress at the halfway stage. All manner of specialist surveys have been carried out – on vegetation and invertebrate response, the effect on breeding bird populations, the underlying archaeology – and we were treated to fascinating talks on the remote sensing techniques used to evaluate the condition of Dartmoor’s blanket bog. I hope to commission some sound articles on the strength of what I learned that day. Today the sun is shining. I for one am looking forward to spring and summer, and long days out enjoying all that Dartmoor has to offer. And while on the subject of outdoor ‘fun’… if anyone happens to be in the vicinity of Meldon Viaduct around midday on Saturday 20 April come and have a look at the Women’s Challenge Club abseil (www.womenschallengeclub.org.uk): I shall be joining in…

dartmoor People, places and pursuits

magazine

When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it

Sue Viccars Editor ABOVE PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE DARTMOOR PONY TRAINING CENTRE

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CONTENTS 52 dartmoor arts

28 dartmoor village life In Old Photographs

What’s on – with Susanne Haines

Customs – Peter F. Mason

54 the hunt for north hall manor Andy Crabb

32 The CRIBBETTS OF PRINCETOWN Tania Crosse learns about 1950s’ life on the High Moor

56 dartmoor curiosities Simon Dell seeks out Dartmoor’s ‘Cobra Heads’

36 helping our honeybees Natural beekeeping

45 58

58 moor food

Jessie Watson Brown and Tim Hall

37 SETTING BOUNDARIES Maxine McAdams meets a ‘traditional boundary man’

63 WALK AND EAT The River Bovey and Hisley Wood – Sue Viccars

12 FROM A DARTMOOR HILL FARM

65 THE GARDEN HOUSE In spring Sue Allen

Anton Coaker on farm sales

14 moor trees and hmp dartmoor

68 walking on dartmoor Springtime in Sheepstor with Deborah Martin

Graham Burton talks about Moor Trees’ work at Princetown

82 The last word

Warrens and vermin traps – Colin and Heather Ridgers

20 ponies inspiring people 63

22 DARTMOOR DISCOVERED Little John’s Walk Tim Jenkinson

25 photography workshop Part 1 Composition

40 UNDERSTANDING THE DARTMOOR LANDSCAPE part 9 Glaciation Richard Horsham

Andrew Gilbert

45 YELVERTON Open for business Pauline Hamilton-Leggett COVER PHOTOGRAPH ‘King of the castle’ PHOTOGRAPH PETER TROTT www.flickr.com/photos/ptrott/

OPPOSITE Looking across Holwell Lawn towards Haytor Rocks PHOTOGRAPH SIMON HODGKISS www.simonhodgkissphotography.com

48 nick baker’s dartmoor spring

PHOTOGRAPHS SUE VICCARS

17 of rabbits and men

Sue Viccars visits the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust

Green shoots at Buckland Abbey – Lori M. Reich

With Tony Beard

REGULARS 3

From the Editor

In the News

57 Subscribe 71 Book Reviews 72 News from the National Trust 74 News from Dartmoor National Park Authority 77 Letters to the Editor 78 Crossword & Diary March, April and May

With illustrations by John Walters

50 land of legends Witches and hares Mary Tavy

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In the news What’s happening around Dartmoor?

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SUE MARTIN

Diana, who died on 10 December, was the daughter of Walter Brooke, a British Army officer, and his wife Lady Edith, and grew up in East Devon. She inherited her great love of horses from her father, who taught her so much of her horsemanship. Living through World War II taught her to be very resilient, as during this time she worked on a farm and assisted a local vet in putting to sleep the hundreds of stray cats and dogs that roamed Exeter after the blitz. She maintained this tough and matter-offact approach throughout her life. During her youth she rode everywhere, or went by pony and trap. On VE night she was arrested for being drunk in charge when found galloping up and down Exmouth seafront with Diana on Royal Sun on their way to winning Tiverton point-to-point her pony and trap, blowing a hunting horn. The purchase of a Dartmoor pony introduced her to her future husband John Coaker, a Dartmoor farmer of equally strong character, and a lover of all equines and animals. Life at Sherberton was never dull: not only did they run the Sherberton pedigree Dartmoor Ponies, they also developed the trekking stable started by John’s mother. Over the years many hundreds of people learned to ride there. Her world revolved around horses and Dartmoor ponies. She showed her Dartmoors around the country, became a highly respected judge of horses all over Europe, and was very proud to be President of the Dartmoor Pony Society. In the 1950s she found an export market for Dartmoor ponies in most countries of Western Europe and continued to export horses and ponies around the world for many years. When point-to-point racing was reintroduced after the war, it was not long before she was enjoying this sport. She twice became England’s leading lady jockey, once before and once after her marriage. In her own mind her racing career was undoubtedly her greatest achievement, but she regretted that she was born too soon to ride in the Grand National. Her funeral, which took place at St Pancras Church, Widecombe-in-the Moor and was attended by over 200 people, was exactly as she would have wanted: four young members of the family as bearers, and Mike Wear, Master of the Dartmoor, to blow her away. The only thing missing was a horse with the boots reversed in the stirrups. Sue Martin

67th Biannual Letterbox Meet 10am–4.30pm Easter Sunday 31 March at Lee Moor Village Hall For anyone interested in taking up the hobby of letterboxing on and around Dartmoor here is the opportunity to find out all about this popular hobby. There will be many stalls selling Charity Letterbox Walks, suitable for all ages and abilities. The Dartmoor Letterboxing 100 club will be there for registering new members (over 14,000 to date, many from overseas and all over the UK). Both the Dartmoor News

DARTMOOR

and Dartmoor Magazine will have stalls, as will Kountry Kit from Tavistock, the specialist outdoor clothing and equipment supplier for Dartmoor. Learn about and join the Dartmoor Society; purchase rubber stamps, books, stationery and all you need to go letterboxing. Keen collectors will also find a special ‘One Day’, along with many other one-day and travelling stamps. The Village Hall provides a bar and excellent refreshment service. A warm welcome to all is guaranteed. Roger Paul

PHOTOGRAPH OSSIE PALMER

Diana Coaker (née Brooke) 1925–2012

Diamond Jubilee Stone, Leusdon The Queen’s Silver Jubilee Stone on Leusdon Common is a familiar landmark in a beautiful setting, and the Leusdon Memorial Hall Committee thought it appropriate to mark Her Majesty’s Diamond Jubilee with a similar stone. With the permission of Patrick Simpson of Spitchwick (who owns the land), and a generous grant from Widecombe Parish Council, local farmer Miles Fursdon found a suitable stone and set it in place with the aid of Brian Booty. It was skilfully engraved by stonemason Andy Cribbett from the Dartmoor National Park and now stands for all to admire on the opposite side of the road to its predecessor, a fitting emblem for a notable occasion. The Diamond Jubilee Stone’s inauguration will be celebrated at a later date at the nearby Memorial Hall, a busy centre for this lively moorland community which is used for many events from the famous Moorland Merrymakers’ pantomime to a thriving monthly Coffee Morning, an event which followed the closure of both Poundsgate and Ponsworthy village shops. It is a gathering which is enjoyed by all and to which all are welcome and takes place on the first Wednesday of every month between 10am and 12 noon. For the price of a £1 you will enjoy a cup of tea or coffee and a generous slice of homemade cake, plus the opportunity to purchase local meat and other produce in a friendly atmosphere. Janet Palmer

IN THE NEWS

I have been passionately interested in the weather for over 45 years, and worked at the Met Office until I retired last summer. When I moved to Haytor in 2002 my interest in ordinary dayto-day weather was rekindled due to the ever-changing conditions on Dartmoor. So I purchased a quality weather station and set up a website to The sun shining through a veil of altostratus record and publish the daily weather in with altocumulus underneath. Taken from Haytor every 10 minutes in real-time. Bagtor Down, looking southwest The website can be brought up by entering www.lyneside.demon.co.uk/Haytor/automatic/Current_Vantage_ Pro.htm into your browser. Alternatively, you can ‘google’ ‘haytor weather’. The site now includes a popular weekly forecast for Dartmoor as well as a comprehensive data archive going back 10 years. I plan to expand the site further with a view to providing a one-stop shop for all aspects of the weather on the whole of Dartmoor as well as Haytor. If you have anything you’d like me to include (within reason) email will@lyneside.demon.co.uk. Will Hand, retired meteorologist

New Haytor weather website

Tavistock Garden Festival – Dig for Victory! This annual Festival celebrates the best of gardens, countryside and local food and takes place on the Spring Bank Holiday weekend, 26 and 27 May, 10am–4pm, in and around Tavistock’s Pannier Market and Town Hall.

PHOTOGRAPH LDWA CORNWALL & DEVON GROUP

A checkpoint on the Chagford Challenge, organised by the LDWA’s Cornwall & Devon Group

LDWA’s Hundred event crosses Dartmoor Every year the Long Distance Walkers Association (LDWA) organises a challenge event known as the ‘Hundred’: a 100-mile route walked non-stop within 48 hours. This year’s event is being hosted by the LDWA’s Cornwall & Devon Group and runs across the two counties from Wadebridge to Teignmouth. Called ‘Camel-Teign Ivor’s Dream 100’ (after the originator of the idea of a coastto-coast route, who sadly died before his dream could become reality), the event will take place from 25–27 May. A similar event will be held on 4–6 May for those 40–50 members who organise the main event. From the Camel estuary the route crosses Bodmin Moor and West Devon before reaching Tavistock and climbing up to Dartmoor. It finally descends to Ashburton and crosses to the coast at Teignmouth. Residents along the route will be advised of the anticipated time the walkers will be in their area. Deborah Martin

The year 2013 marks a significant commemoration for the town. On 27 May 1943 the HQ of the US 29th Infantry Division was established, and Tavistock became the focus of the tactical planning for the Omaha Landings on D-Day. World War II Re-enactment South West will be on 25 and 26 May with displays in the Meadows and around the town. Tavistock Garden Festival will be playing its part with a ‘Dig for Victory’ theme. For more information visit www.tavistock.gov.uk, Facebook or Twitter @TaviGardenFest. Tavistock Town Council tel: (01822) 613529, email: gardenfestival@tavistock.gov.uk. PHOTOGRAPH PHILIP KNOWLING

PHOTOGRAPH BRETT KINSMAN DAW

PHOTOGRAPH WILL HAND

Louise Crossman Architects has recently presented a cheque for £1262.51 to the Devon Historic Churches Trust. For several years the practice has run a scheme whereby a minimum donation of £25 is requested for an initial consultation for new projects or for ad hoc advice, and the money donated to a chosen charity. The Devon Historic Churches Trust was established in 1972 to help with the preservation of the 1000 places of worship of all denominations across Devon. Since 2009 the DHCT has donated funds to a number of churches in the Dartmoor area, including North Bovey, Drewsteignton, Tavistock, Manaton and Buckland Monachorum. The Holy Trinity, Drewsteignton very wet weather experienced over 2012 has resulted in an increase in requests for help. The DHCT is also currently promoting audio tours, downloadable onto smartphones, at Holne, Brent Tor and Tavistock churches. www.devonhistoricchurches.co.uk www.lcarchitects.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH SUE VICCARS

Support for Dartmoor’s historic churches

Valiant Soldier tribute to cricket club The Buckfastleigh Kings Cricket Club has marked its 150th anniversary with an exhibition in the new town museum (still on display when the Valiant Soldier and museum reopens at the end of March). The display includes cricket bats, memorabilia and photographs. Cricket was first played in the town in 1862, and the club is thought to be one of the oldest in Devon, becoming part of the social fabric of the community. For a long time it played only friendly games – some players considered that joining a league made it more competitive and less enjoyable! The team once played a celebrity XI featuring Eric Morecombe and Ernie Wise. Further information from Sandra Coleman, Valiant Soldier, tel: (01364) 644522. www,valiantsoldier.org.uk

Members of the cricket club with the Mayor of Buckfastleigh, Denise Rudgley

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30th Dartmoor Jailbreak This April sees the 30th anniversary of the Dartmoor Jailbreak, started in 1984 by then Prison Officer John Butler and the Marketing Manager of Scope (The Spastics Society). Since then teams have raised over £625,000. Teams of two or more raise money for Vranch House for children with cerebral palsy and all children with physical difficulties (50 percent can go to another cause). Teams are released near the Prison and choose to go ‘on the run’ for 12 to 168 hours (a week); they must not pay for transport but must keep within the law. The escape route may be prearranged; free tickets may be obtained or others can pay for or lend transport. Minimum age is 16. This year’s event takes place on Saturday 20 April, and teams invited to enter now. Organiser since 1985, Sue Gould of Vranch House, said, ‘Teams usually have an amazing time!’ To mark the 30th anniversary some records are listed here: • £31,780 raised by a team from Plymouth – they escaped to Brunei where the then 2nd wife of the Sultan donated £30,000, and were interviewed on Brunei TV. • 11,916 miles to Auckland by two grannies, who have been on TV in Australia, Hong Kong and the USA. • The Dartmoor Outdoor Sports Society climbed 11 mountains in 36 hours. • Some Plymouth climbers went up and down a rock to climb a total of 29,250ft (Everest is 29,028ft). • Three Torbay policemen reached 22 countries in four days (and have been ‘arrested’ in 13 countries). • Two Plympton and Kingsbridge policemen were towed away in a sled by a team of huskies. • The Totnes police went to Alcatraz and back in 48 hours. For an entry form and information pack contact Andrew Barge, Marketing Manager of Vranch House, tel: (01392) 468333 or email andrew.barge@ vranchhouse.org.

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For the last four years this small moorland town has run an increasingly successful and popular event celebrating the best of local foods, drink and arts. It has a growing reputation for the strength of its organisation and the friendliness of volunteers who run the festival as a non-profit-making venture – a community-run festival for the wider community. Any surplus cash is given to a local charity. The whole town turns out to welcome visitors to this highly enjoyable event – 7000 last year. There will be over 100 stalls, bread-making workshops, an open studios art trail, musical entertainment in the church, a giant Kitchen Jumble Sale, and a film competition ‘Made on Dartmoor’ for amateur film makers (sponsored by Bovey Castle). Try a delicious Drovers Pie with a pint of Hunters Beer at The White Hart Hotel (then learn how to make it at one of many demonstrations taking place all over the town). The Festival will be opened by Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines. Join us for FREE family fun, live music, local art and an abundance of fabulous food on Saturday 9 March (from 9.30am). Moretonhampstead Festival of Food, Drink and the Arts, is sponsored by Helpful Holidays, one of the leading holiday cottage specialists in the Southwest. www.moretonfestival.com PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MFFDA

The Baskerville Experience team – David Brookes, Sylvia Agnew, Christine Stiff, Sandra Brookes and Jeff Savage – with the hound in a bath chair

‘The People’s Festival’ in Moretonhampstead

Diamond Jubilee window at St Pancras Church A stained glass window has been fixed in one of the south-facing windows of Widecombe Church, to commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee. It was dedicated at the Annual Carol Service held on 15 December 2012 by Rev Geoffrey Fenton, Vicar of the Parish, in the presence of Mrs Chloe Whwho designed the ‘roundel’. As it faces south the sun will shine through it, and it has already caused many favourable comments. At the service The Widecombe Choral Group sang ‘The Widecombe Carol’ dating from c1780, its first airing for many years. This too was received with great acclaim. Tony Beard

Help for Whiteface Dartmoor sheep

PHOTOGRAPH ROB WOLTON

PHOTOGRAPH JAMES BIRD

IN THE NEWS

Twool twine is made from the ‘lustre’ long wool of the rare Whiteface Dartmoor sheep, a much under-used natural resource. The Whiteface Dartmoor sheep is one of Britain’s most ancient breeds and is an important part of Dartmoor’s heritage (see Issue 108, autumn 2012). Whiteface are renowned for

exceptional mothering instincts, ease of lambing, high-quality meat, wool and beautiful long-curled sheep skins. Indigenous to Dartmoor, and well adapted to its upland pastures and moors, they are classified as ‘At risk’, numbers having declined hugely since their heyday in the 17th and 18th centuries due to changing market demands. Today, efforts are being made to ensure the breed’s survival into the future through the work of The Whiteface Dartmoor Sheep Breeders Association. By creating and marketing Twool we hope to develop a long-term sustainable business which will also help play a role in highlighting the breed. www.twool.co.uk

IN THE NEWS

The Armed Forces have trained on Dartmoor for over 140 years, and in mid-2012 their lease with the Duchy of Cornwall was renewed for a further 21 years. The Camp supports military training on the Dartmoor Training Areas (DTA) by providing basic accommodation facilities for approximately 700 light and dismounted Armed Forces personnel (plus a further 1000 on internal campsites). Many will be familiar with Okehampton Camp through the Ten Tors Challenge which is run by 43 Wessex Brigade in mid-May each year. The home team responsible for looking after DTA is undergoing a process of change. The arrival of Chris Kirkham (left in photo), as a second Training Area Marshal, is very welcome. A recently retired infantry soldier, Chris (and his dog Cooper) will soon become a familiar sight to those who frequent the moor. The current Commandant, Lt Col Chris Robinson (right), is due to move on after an 18-month stint covering the post in his capacity as Regional Executive Officer for Defence Training Estates. Col Robinson feels particularly privileged to have been able to experience Dartmoor, its population and issues, and he will take away many fond memories of his time in the Camp and on the moor. Further information on the Military on Dartmoor can be obtained through www.mod.uk/DefenceInternet/MicroSite/DIO/WhatWeDo/DTE/DartmoorTrainingArea.htm.

STOP PRESS – Cramber Tor In early February Dartmoor National Park Authority’s Development Management Committee considered a planning application for the continued change of use of Cramber Tor training area for military dry training for an indefinite period. Temporary permission was granted allowing use for a period of 40 years and subject to a number of conditions to control the impact of that use. Bill Hitchins, Chairman, DNPA, said, ‘...Whilst accepting that the case is currently made out for training at Cramber Tor, the Authority has not granted permission in perpetuity. The temporary permission granted means that there is a long-term stop date, and allows an opportunity for formal reassessment of the case for continued training at that date.’  Several bodies, including the Open Spaces Society, Dartmoor Preservation Association, and Ramblers, opposed the Planning Officer’s recommendation for permanent consent. Before the decision was given, James Paxman, chief executive of the DPA, commented: ‘While we have no objection to adventure training, we are deeply concerned at the possibility of battle simulation, which would destroy the peace of this tranquil area and frighten walkers and riders. The National Park Authority can only be sure of maintaining the current low-impact training if it imposes new conditions to govern troop levels, aircraft movements and the use of pyrotechnics. Otherwise there is a serious risk that it can be escalated out of control in future.’ For more information visit www.dartmoor.gov.uk and www.dartmoorpreservation.com.

The Dartmoor Society has arranged the charter of a special train from Okehampton Station on Friday 12 April: a rare opportunity to travel on the independently owned Dartmoor Railway from Meldon Quarry to near Yeoford. The train will be worked by a veteran former BR mainline diesel locomotive and will stop at Meldon Viaduct Station, returning to Okehampton at approx 1pm. Passengers should arrive at 10.15am for the 10.30am departure. The excellent Station Buffet will be open. The cost is £10 (£5 per child 5–15) for DS members, £12 (£6) nonmembers. Under 5s free; no dogs. Please send cheques, payable to The Dartmoor Society, to PO Box 38, Tavistock PL19 0XJ by 30 March. For further information: Hon Sec Tanya Welch, tel: (01803) 327554, or Tony Hill, tel: (01837) 83934.

PHOTOGRAPH SUE VICCARS

Changes at Okehampton Camp

‘The Dartmoor Explorer’

Luggage stacked at Okehampton Station

Dogs get their day at Buckland Abbey Estate This year for the first time dogs will be allowed at Buckland Abbey, Garden and Estate, the National Trust’s property near Yelverton. Dogs will be allowed on several of the estate walks; some of the areas will be leadfree zones. Buckland Abbey will be asking for feedback from all visitors throughout the two-year trial period. Poo bags will be available and dog owners will be asked to take the waste home with them for disposal. Missey at Buckland Abbey Normal entry fee will apply to human owners. For more information visit www.nationaltrust.org. uk/bucklandabbey.

PHOTOGRAPH NATIONAL TRUST

This charity supports children under 11 years of age who have special needs in West Devon. During the last decade over £40,000 has been distributed. As the District Officer of Health, the late Dr Mary Budding came into contact with numerous children with severe difficulties, and generously left a legacy that was a catalyst for the starting of this charity. Few villages in the area have been untouched by the Trust over the last decade. A substantial contribution to the cost of the specialist equipment for the Okehampton Area Schools Multi Sensory Room and Garden was provided by the charity. Young children from Northlew, Lewtrenchard, North and South Tawton, A quiet play area, paid for by the Trust, at Bridestowe, Hatherleigh, Sourton and Okehampton have all benefited from special Northlew & Ashbury primary school needs equipment. Applications for grants can be obtained from the Hon Sec Mrs Ann MacDonald, email: a.mcd@ tiscali.co.uk. For more information visit www.tavistock.fr/marybuddingtrust. Open Gardens Some local gardens are kindly opening to the public in 2013 in aid of the Trust. See the Diary (further dates will appear in Issue 111, summer 2013).

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE MARY BUDDING TRUST

The Mary Budding Trust 10th anniversary

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IN THE NEWS

Dartmoor summit forecasts now available

Dartmoor rainfall 2012

PHOTOGRAPH JOHN BAKER

The Met Office have started issuing forecasts specifically for most mountain or hill summits in the UK and these include a lot of the Dartmoor tors. The forecasts are only available from the Met Office website www.metoffice.gov.uk. Once at the home page hover over the ‘weather’ tab and move the cursor down and left click on ‘leisure forecast’. You will then be presented with a ‘Map menu’ on the right of the screen where you need to select the ‘Summits’ radio button. You should then see a map which you can pan and zoom in the normal way to locate Dartmoor. If you zoom in to maximum magnification the individual tors will be indicated, or with less zoom you can select from a list with the cursor by hovering over the locations indicated in black. For example, you may wish to select Yes Tor as your required summit location. After selection using the left mouse button you will see a detailed five-day forecast with information at three-hourly intervals. Days are selected along the top by clicking and times are indicated down the left. Expected weather, temperature, wind, visibility, humidity and other parameters are all available. Hopefully this tool will make planning walks easier and people more aware of the more severe conditions high up on Dartmoor, especially in winter when wind chill (‘feels like’ temperature) can be significant. Will Hand

10 DARTMOOR

Last year started fairly wet in January, then in common with most places in the UK was relatively dry in February and March, then a very wet April was followed by a drier May. This lead on to the wet summer and an even wetter autumn, then an extremely wet December which really pushed the annual totals up. Thus 2012 joins the list of very wet years on Dartmoor (1912, 1974, 1994, 1998, 2000 and 2007). For the bulk of the moor 1994 and 2000 stand out as having the most rain, and only a few stations broke records in 2012. Places like Moretonhampstead, Widecombe, High Willhayes, East Okement Farm, South Zeal, White Ridge and Ryders Hill all broke records. However, the southern tip of the moor and lowland locations were the main areas to set new records, from Buckfastleigh and South Brent to Cornwood where record amounts of rain fell (boosted by the exceptional storm of 6–7 July when the rivers Avon, Erme and Yealm all reached record levels). Snow rarely featured in 2012. The only period with much was 29 January until 5 February when several inches accumulated, and again a little on 10 February. Late in the year an inch fell overnight on 3 November. The site with most rain was Ryders Hill on the South Moor with 3485mm (137.21in), beating the old record of 3378mm (134.7in) at White Barrow in 1994. The second-wettest place was White Barrow with 3378mm (132.99in); Winneys Down on the North Moor was third, with 3201mm (126.04in). As mentioned sites on the southern tip of the moor had the wettest year recorded – Three Barrows had 3128mm (123.15in) and Erme Intake 2762mm (108.74in). All the remote high moorland areas received over 2550mm (100.4in), dropping to around 2400mm (94.5in) in the central Dart basin. Most rain in one month fell in December, with the maximum measured being 612mm (24.1in) at Ryders Hill, whilst March was the driest with typically around 60mm (2.4in) on the high moors falling to 31mm (1.22in) at Postbridge. The number of ‘wet’ days ie over 25mm (1in) was around 25 on the North Moor and slightly less in the Postbridge area, but increasing considerably on the

South Moor to as much as 39 days as recorded at White Barrow. Indeed, there were 14 days with over 50mm (2in) at White Barrow and 4 days with 75mm (3in), the most being 93.6mm (3.68in) on 6 July. On the North Moor, as recorded at Tawhead, there were only 3 days with 50mm or more, the most being 57.8mm on 23 September (compared to the year 2000 when 40 days exceeded 25mm and 8 days had 50mm or more at Tawhead!). On the other hand on the South Moor in 2000 there were 31 days with 25mm and 17 days over 50mm, so quite a difference can be seen between the two years. As mentioned already there were considerable floods on the Plym, Yealm, Erme and Avon after the torrential rain on the night of 6 July, and levels were way above anything recorded at the gauging stations since records started some 40 years ago. The main River Dart, however, did not reach levels recorded before, although it was in spate at least 26 times during the year. The same went for the other Dartmoor rivers, although the Bovey was higher than for many years in November. For interesting comparisons rainfall at the following places were: Cornwood 1916mm (75.43in), South Brent 2313mm (91.1in), Buckfastleigh 1998mm (78.66in), Moretonhampstead 1676mm (66.0in), Widecombe 2209mm (86.98in), Postbridge 2250mm (88.58in), Cherrybrook 2541mm (100.04in) – this was interesting as it was almost the same as in 2000! – Pridons Farm Hole 2494mm (98.19in), Swincombe 2607mm (102.64in), Ditsworthy Warren 2494mm (98.19in), Chagford 1484mm (58.42in), Throwleigh 1786mm (70.31in), South Zeal 1805mm (71.51in), East Okement Farm 2071mm (81.53in), Wilsworthy 2274mm (89.53in) and Cut Hill 3039mm (119.65in). Apologies to any observers not included. Mike Sampson, with thanks to Sandy Satterley at the Envionment Agency NOTE This data is the best available data we have at present. It is not an exact copy of either data as read or Met Office quality controlled data, and may undergo changes through further data quality control. This data is not admissible to support legal proceedings.

IN THE NEWS

Fish pass, Sticklepath

Celebrating Tamar Valley Life

PHOTOGRAPH CHRIS WALPOLE

A new weir has been built on the River Taw at Cleave Mill (SX 6390 9405) to help salmon and trout reach their spawning grounds on the higher reaches of the river. The work was carried out in September last year, during one of the few periods of relative drought, by the Environment Agency and the Westcountry Rivers Trust. To aid safety as much of the river’s flow as possible was temporarily diverted through a colourful aerial tunnel of interconnected buckets. A deep pool has now been created between the weir and the cascade, making it easier for fish to ascend the remaining part of the cascade by providing a better take-off for their leap as well as reducing the size of that The weir/dam almost completed (the river leap. Further work to build a second weir just was still running low on this day; since then the ‘new’ pool behind the dam has been downstream is planned for this year. much fuller and often the water comes right Chris Walpole over the dam)

Churches in the villages of West Dartmoor will be taking to the moor on foot this Easter. Everyone is welcome to join the walks from one church to the next on Friday 29 March. Each walk starts with a short service and will merge for the final leg, an ascent of Sheepstor. Families and dog walkers are especially invited, as is anyone wanting to take time out on this important day in the Christian year. Each of the seven churches across West Dartmoor Mission Community is involved, with options to walk a short distance or the whole route. Alternatively there is the option to not walk and instead enjoy a service especially for children at Sampford Spiney. A summary of the Good Friday start times is listed below. Full details can be seen at www.westdartmoorbenefice.co.uk or via Facebook ‘Good Friday Dartmoor Walk’. Princetown United Church: 8.30am St. John’s United Church Horrabridge: 9am St. Paul’s Yelverton: 9.30am St. Mary’s Walkhampton: 10am St. Peter’s Meavy: 10.30am St. Mary’s Sampford Spiney: 11am Children’s Service St. Leonard’s Sheepstor: 12pm

PHOTOGRAPH REVD PREB NICK SHUTT

Churches take to the moor on Good Friday

Following the submission of over 90 diaries from people who live and work in the Tamar Valley, the Cordiale project team are pleased to announce the completion of the Diarykeepers film, available at www. tamarvalley.org.uk/projects/cordiale. The film documents the process of making this innovative piece of community engagement, and captures the daily life, thoughts and aspirations of our Valley residents, aged 4 to 80. It also shows how this contrasts with Valley life 100 years ago, thanks to extracts from the diary of Joseph Snell, a market gardener who lived in St Dominick. For further information contact Simon Bates, Cordiale Project Officer, (01822) 835033, or email sbates@ tamarvalley.org.uk.

Get your boots on and enjoy the Tamar Valley! More than 30 events for all ages and abilities.

St Leonards Sheepstor

For the last 10 years, the Dartmoor Preservation Association has been active in conservation – clearing vegetation, surveying and recording. More damage can be done in excavating than in leaving well alone and excavation on the moor is uncommon these days but, in a small way, the DPA conservation group has recently gone into the restoration business. Between 1917 and 1932, about 70 Plymouth Corporation Water Works (PCWW) stones were erected to mark the catchment area for Burrator Reservoir. Having been contacted by

Graham Colton about fallen PCWW stones in the area which he farms on North Hessary Tor, the DPA agreed to help with re-erecting them. With the consent of South West Water and DNP’s archaeologists, in September 2012 seven DPA conservation group volunteers, with tools, set off from Princetown along the old railway line to the stone at SX 5753 7364. Graham Colton arrived with a tractor plus digger attachment and soon the stone was hoisted into the air, a hole one third of the stone’s height was dug and the stone was put firmly in place. The process was then repeated for a stone nearer the railway, at SX 5753 7368.

There is further work to be done. The stone standing just north of the railway cutting is leaning, and can be moved, so the plan is to reset that. There is another fallen stone near the mast and that will be re-erected in due course. Bill Radcliffe PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF DPA

Burrator Boundary Stones – a new project

DARTMOOR 11

HILL FARMING

From a Dartmoor

HILL FARM Anton Coaker looks at the year ahead

A Anton Coaker farms one of the ‘ancient tenements’ across the West Dart and Swincombe valleys. His family has been farming on Dartmoor for several centuries. He is helped by his wife Alison, and three children, rearing beef cattle and sheep. Galloway beef and hide rugs are sold direct from the farm. As well as farming, Anton runs an oak sawmill business, and writes for various publications.

12 DARTMOOR

fter all the dark days of grind through the winter, one of my first outings of spring might well be to a collective machinery sales. Most of the auctioneers around the periphery of the moor hold such events, on a bit of ground kindly lent by some tolerant soul. It will hopefully be a welldrained field, preferably adjoining a reasonably wide road (although there have been some especially enjoyable failures in these primary considerations). On the designated day, most of the farmers from miles around will turn up to gaze upon row after row of worn-out rusting farm equipment lined up for sale (‘It worked the last time it was used’). Often, a chap might end up going home with just as much clutter as he brought, albeit different clutter. Paying attention is very much secondary to having a good old gas with all your chums, comparing winter disasters complaining about the weather. Soon after come the spring grass sales, where seasonal crops of mowing or grazing grass are sold by auction (‘Well fenced, no attendance given’), then, as summer progresses, come sales of standing straw (‘Crop showing promise, weed free’). At the former, the buyer is purchasing grass as yet largely ungrown (in the temperate West this is a small gamble). At the latter, the gamble is greater, the buyer relying on the vendor to combine the crop in good time, so the straw can be baled before the monsoons return. The seller, of course, is hedging his bets. On into autumn come the main livestock sales, both of ‘store’ animals for further fattening, and of breeding stock – the draft ewes, ewe lambs, bull sales, and the infamous ram sales – where all sanity walks smartly out of the door. These are held in the remaining livestock markets, and only rarely in fields, as were the sheep fairs of old. Aficionados of various breeds might travel hundreds of miles to make a selection from a particular flock or herd, with neighbours often finding themselves convening in some distant windy Scottish mart building. Whole farm ‘dispersal sales’ will crop up throughout the year, commonly around the traditional rent days of ‘Michaelmas’ and ‘Lady Day’, where tenancies are being surrendered (September and March respectively). The sight of a farmer’s goods lined up in a field can induce a poignant mix of voyeurism and sympathy – where

the sale might be involuntary – or distress where a bereavement is involved. Equally, they might result from a legitimate and deserved retirement, or a deliberate change of course. Likewise, auction sales of freehold land crop up throughout the year, often conducted in a comfortable pub nearby. (You might as well bolster your nerves with a stiff drink if you’re going to dabble in such things). The posters advertising such sales tend to be held onto in farmhouses long after the land has been bought, but curiously less so in households where it’s been sold. The close of our auction season comes with the regular winter favourites of the ‘dressed poultry’ sales, and the ‘winter keep sale’ of baled hay, mounds of silage and fields of root crops to be eaten in situ. (Invariably opened by the auctioneer announcing he’s seen a long-range forecast, and there’s a very cold winter coming). Obviously, with most of the above being conducted by auction, most farmers are well used to trading by this simple system of an agent asking for successive bids from prospective buyers, to ascertain who will pay the most. It is of course nerve-racking when decisions have to be made ‘on the hoof ’. But then, faint heart never won fair whatshername. Obviously, there can be problems. A balance has to be struck between the auctioneer’s mantra (‘Buyers’ responsibility at the fall of the hammer’), against the stated quality of the merchandise. A ram or bull sold as such generally has to be ‘capable of siring stock by natural service’, and unless otherwise stated, a heifer or ewe lamb is not expected to bring forth unexpected new life three weeks after the sale. (Although generally the complaints in this respect only start when the birth doesn’t go smoothly.) Bidding strategies are subtle and fraught, but old hands who can see an opening might well turn a quick buck. Long ago, when I was a lad, I was procuring Scotch sheep on a Hebridean island. Buying a pen of ewes on one farm – for they were still sold ‘on farm’ thereabouts – I took an option on the whole row. Within moments, a local lad had sought me out needing some of these ewes. Inside three minutes, before I’d even paid for them, I’d resold them very satisfactorily – although in the bar that night, I did have to stand a couple of hefty rounds of the island’s other principal export. Ah. Did I let that slip out? No, really, it’s all serious business. ■

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OUT AND ABOUT

Moor Trees and HMP Dartmoor Offender Pathway to Employment Project Graham Burton, Director Moor Trees

View showing the setting of HMP Dartmoor across Duchy of Cornwall land in the foreground. The hill behind, under the mast, is where Moor Trees hopes to plant new woodland in the future. Access paths will cross the hill and offer views over the prison and moor. Future stages may also open up fields in front of and below the prison, and a possible circular walking route

Moor Trees is a conservation charity that plants and creates new natural woodland on and around Dartmoor. In 2011 Moor Trees volunteers planted their 40,000th tree – but planting trees is not all the charity does. Over the last few years Moor Trees has been forging a unique partnership with Dartmoor Prison at Princetown. This article looks at the background to that venture.

Royal Prison, Dartmoor October 12th 1814 It is with regret that I have to inform you of my unhappy situation that is, confined here in a loathsome prison where I have worn out almost 9 months of my Days; and god knows how long it will be before I shall get my Liberty again… This same place is one of the most retched in this habited world… neither wind nor water tight, it is situated on the top of a high hill and is so high that it either rains, hails or snows almost the year round for further particulars of my present unhappy situation…

14 DARTMOOR

he words on the left were written by a prisoner of the 1812 war between Britain and America from Dartmoor Prison, one of the first groups of prisoners to enjoy its hospitality. The prison was commissioned to deal with captives taken during the Napoleonic Wars who were being kept in prison hulks, the shells of rotting ships, in appalling conditions. The danger of their proximity to Plymouth and the naval dockyards was of great concern to the authorities, so the solution was to construct a purpose-built facility inland. A site high on Dartmoor, by the village of Princetown, was chosen, and the architect Daniel Alexander given the commission. It opened in 1809. Between that year and 1816 when

repatriations had been completed, 1500 American and French soldiers and sailors had died out of a prison population of over 6500. For the next 150 years it was, at various times, used to accommodate conscientious objectors in World War I or as a high-security establishment to house some of the most infamous criminals of their day: the ‘Mad Axeman’ Frank Mitchell, murdered when he became dangerous to his liberators after being sprung from the jail; and the 1940s acid-bath murderer John George Haigh, hanged in 1949. Today it is very different. HMP Dartmoor is a category ‘C’ prison, mainly for non-violent offenders and white-collar

OUT AND ABOUT

October 11: felling the plantation. Note the brash/ branches left on the ground, and then cleared away later, ready for replanting

February 2012: beech plantation thinned leaving native species in place – mainly rowan and ash, with some beech to vary the age class of planting

The same view in June 2012. Native trees (oak, ash, rowan, hawthorn, birch) planted in protective tubes, and path now laid using road planings from local highway work

‘Insect piles’ mimicking natural dead wood by layering branches and moss. These enable invertebrates to survive on site ready to colonise the new planting as it grows

criminals ‘unlikely to attempt to escape’. They have the opportunity to take courses in electronics, brickwork and carpentry up to City & Guilds and NVQ level, painting and decorating, industrial cleaning and desktop publishing. An important feature of Dartmoor Prison was the existence of an extensive farm, which flourished right up to the 1980s. In 1986 a pupil from the local school wrote the following description for the BBC’s Domesday Project: From our classroom window we have a lovely view across the prison farm. It was started about a hundred years ago to occupy the prisoners and today it covers about 1600 acres. On the farm they have 800 ewes, 300 beef cows, 110 dairy cows, 900 lambs and 3 horses. To look after all these animals and to do all the other jobs about the farm about 60 prisoners are employed daily with 12 civilians and 9 or 10 prison officers. Once every year, in October, they sell the livestock at a market which is held on the farm. You can hear the cattle mooing all night at sale time. The beef cows are Blue Greys and Galloways and the dairy cows are Friesians. The main produce from the farm is beef and milk and they get about 300 gallons of milk a day: 223 gallons go to Ambrosia for milk puddings, 50 gallons is used in the prison and 27 gallons go to Newton Abbot prison. Most of the land is grassland though 40 acres is used for growing oats for animal feed. They have 14 tractors for cutting the grass. There are 70 acres of forestry too. Another activity on the farm is a small animal feed mill. They import cereal and produce cownuts, pignuts and cowcake in the mill which is distributed to other Home Office farms. However, government policy changed. The farm was not considered cost-effective and the bulk of the farmland was handed back to the landowners, the Duchy of Cornwall, in 2004. The farm buildings were retained and became an exceptional training facility where suitable prisoners, working towards release, could practise on large machinery, gaining NVQ or City & Guilds vocational qualifications in tractor driving, brushcutters and all-terrain vehicles. Unfortunately, the ability to apply these new skills was limited. The farmland was simple pasture, grazed by sheep and Highland cattle, which did not provide the varied range of settings needed to put

into practice the new qualifications. It was at this point that we – Moor Trees – were introduced to the prison authorities. We have been creating native woodland on and around Dartmoor since 1999. We grow local provenance trees in community tree nurseries from locally collected seed, and run research, education and training programmes with partner schools, colleges and universities. We wanted to discuss a new idea – to enhance the on-site training with new land management challenges, including forestry skills, woodland planting and pond restoration. A business plan was quickly agreed, and funding established through a series of grants and donations. OPEP – the Offender Pathway to Employment Project – was born. Soon a new plan for the farm was devised which would allow a much wider range of skills to be applied and training programmes to be enhanced. Wildlife management would focus on specific areas, the greatest challenge being restoring and renovating the crumbling Victorian reservoir, which was leaking and had been silting up for over 100 years. It was once the main supply for the prison and supplied running water for the bathhouse, the kitchens and a flushing system for waste. The reservoir wetland habitat and wooded surrounds are quite unusual for the high moor, and by repairing it we knew we could safeguard an important wildlife environment for years to come. The prison is known to host bat roosts and the area is home to lesser horseshoe and barbastelle, as well as more common pipistrelles. The first task was to remove up to half a metre of silt, enabling emergent vegetation and pondweeds to flourish, increasing the value for insects and flowering plants. Once we could get access to the outflow we found the leak and with a huge effort from the trainee prisoners rebuilt the granite sidewall, plugged the hole with clay and constructed a concrete retaining dam. A pipe was fitted to allow easier emptying for future management, and the sidewalls and banks were reinstated. Finally the earth banks around were cleared of overgrown trees and the surrounding woodland restructured to favour oaks, hazel, rowan and other native species. Now, in 2013, the latest chapter of the story of the prison farmland is unfolding. In the spring of 2011 the farming operation was closed, the prison service DARTMOOR 15

OUT AND ABOUT deciding that managing a few sheep and cattle on a smallholding was simply not practical or cost-effective, though strong support remained for the machinery skills training and the work of OPEP. This was an opportunity for Moor Trees to work with the prison on constructing a new plan, extending wildlife management across the entire site, some 26 hectares (73 acres) in all. Working closely with the National Park and the Duchy of Cornwall, new ideas are being devised for extending native woodland, creating wetlands and restoring flower-rich meadows. There are also other exciting ideas, such as exploring the story of the historical landscape below the prison, at one time a series of small fields for growing vegetables. A fundamental principle of the new plans is to create access to the prison

The Victorian reservoir before restoration, showing how silted up it had become

September 2011: reservoir mostly drained

Extract from an article written by a prisoner working on the Moor Trees/HMP Dartmoor OPEP scheme

April 2012: reservoir refilled. The blue ‘drain’ pipe is now held underwater and does not show

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF MOOR TREES

July 2012: reservoir filled and water plants thriving

The main walk in the reservoir area, to be opened to the public once the work is completed and safe

16 DARTMOOR

I had been aware of Moor Trees and the work they do prior to coming to prison, and have a few friends who have volunteered over the years. I didn’t realise that Moor Trees did any work with the prison until I was placed in the resettlement unit here. I guess it’s not something you necessarily pay attention to until its relevant to you. …I have been working on the reservoir project with Moor Trees. On the whole I have found it rewarding work. The first work I undertook… was strimming out some of the brambles. Also, walking the area and trying my best to selectively remove as much of the rosebay willowherb that had grown up in patches on the hillside, whilst avoiding the ferns, foxgloves and trees. Over the course of two days I thought I had done a fairly systematic job, but now a few months have passed and it is almost as if I had never been there – with lots of new growth, especially in the areas not yet fully covered in woodchip. A few weeks later a group of us made a drystone wall down by

land for both visitors and residents of Princetown. By creating a new footpath from the centre of the village across the western hillside and down to the Prison Museum we could offer a great walk, with far-reaching views over the prison and its setting in the landscape. The story of the prison’s history could be brought to life using this remarkable view. New wetlands and flower-rich meadows are planned for the fields below the main prison, also accessible from the town and allowing nonprisoners their first close views of this aspect for a century or more. Moor Trees is now actively seeking support and funding for this exciting plan, one that would seem extraordinary to that sad, lonely American, pining for his wife as he looked across the dismal scene in 1814. www.moortrees.org ■

the reservoir, walling off some trees by the wall to the road from the path being laid around it. This was probably my favourite task to date. I found it particularly rewarding to see the results of our labour. After the strimming it was nice to do something which created a far more permanent change, one which will hopefully stand there for many years to come. Whilst on the project I have been able to undertake and make use of a fair amount of the training available on the farm – including brushcutting and strimming, mowing, tractor driving and, most recently, using the wood chipper. There is no shortage of practice in these skills, especially the strimming, which seems to be never ending! Apart from the odd job in summer holidays whilst a student, I’ve never had a full-time job and I feel that these last few months have provided me with some insight into regular working routines which will be valuable to me when I try and find work in the real world. My confidence in the chances of finding employment has increased. This is important, as a lack of employment was the main factor leading to my choosing to offend, which ultimately led me here.

HISTORY

Of Rabbits and Men

In search of Dartmoor’s vermin traps WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS COLIN AND HEATHER RIDGERS

he sea mist clung obstinately to the beach on this October morn in the year of our Lord AD1066. Waves lapped gently against the rounded pebbles; the few seabirds searching for food along the shore were oblivious to the cataclysmic events that were about to unfold. A young French squire shivered in the early morning sunlight; he was not cold, but very, very afraid. He glanced down at the wicker baskets lying at his feet, conscious of the honour bestowed upon him by his liege lord, William, Duke of Normandy. He looked towards the shore, visualising the massed ranks of the Saxon army waiting to repel the Norman invaders. The first wave of ships had already grounded on the beach; furious sounds of battle echoed through the mist. His ship hit the pebbly beach, he grabbed the handles of two of the baskets and jumped into the foaming water. Running up the beach, he avoided the grunting warriors locked in mortal combat, desperate to get his precious cargo to safer ground. But his luck soon ran out: he never saw the sword blow which struck him down. The body of the young Norman lay on the beach, arms outstretched. His two baskets, their lids burst open, lay on the grass in front of his inert body. Their precious contents – several grey Norman rabbits – had quickly scampered to freedom, little knowing that they were the first of their kind in these isles. Their descendants were destined to ultimately form a pivotal role in a Dartmoor industry that would last for nearly a millennia.

Ditsworthy Warren House SX 583 662

Supposition? Agreed. However, history still debates who introduced the rabbit into our green and pleasant land. Certainly a favoured food of the Norman gentry, many of these furry mammals would probably have been brought to England by those who were soon to become the new lords of the manor. This unrecorded assault on the English countryside by the small and furry Norman invaders was insidious, but very effective. In 1135, during the reign of Henry I, the possession of St Michael’s Island (Drake’s Island) together with all its rabbits was transferred to Plympton Priory. But not until sometime shortly before 1272, during the reign of Henry II, Baldwin de Redvers, Earl of Devon granted a lease to one Sampson de Traylesworthy to keep, maintain and breed the coney, as the adult rabbit was known. Rabbit warrening had finally come to the moor. Sampson’s Warren, built amongst the remains of prehistory along the sunny southern slopes of the two tors that bear his name, was one of the most extensive upon the moor. Buries, long grassy man-made mounds which the rabbits occupied, mingle amongst the legacy of granite domesticity from thousands of years past.

The popularity of the rabbit for both fur and food, and its capability of breeding very rapidly and efficiently, lent itself to a new type of farming previously unknown to the Saxon peasantry: warrening. Adequate drainage (coneys dislike living in wet buries); plentiful grass (coneys spend many hours eating); a plentiful supply of medium-sized granite building material (needed by the warreners to form the foundation of their buries, which we now know as ‘pillow mounds’). The Plym Valley had all of these attributes. Willing’s Walls Warren, Hen Tor Warren, Sheepstor Warren, Legis Warren (later known as New Warren) and Ditsworthy Warren, all were leased with ‘free liberty to make a warren for the keeping, breeding and killing of rabbits’. The farming of the little Norman invaders rapidly transformed itself into the industry that has left an indelible mark upon the moor to this day. The Plym Valley was not unique in having ideal conditions for the keeping of rabbits. Warrens were established in other suitable locations upon the moor. Vaghill Warren above Dartmeet, Skaigh Warren between Belstone and Sticklepath, whilst on the eastern side of the moor was established Huntingdon

DARTMOOR 17

HISTORY Warren with its 102 buries and Yalland Warren, near Shipley Bridge with but eight. In the mid-18th century a small warren was started near the ‘New House’ on the south verge of the packhorse track where Sunday travellers now park their steeds and stop for ale at the Warren House Inn. The purpose of the warren was immortalised in an inn sign of the day:

Here is cider and beer Your hearts for to cheer And if you want meat To make up a treat There are rabbits to eat.1

that the name weasel is derived from an Anglo-Saxon word weatsop which means ‘a vicious blood-thirsty animal’ – perhaps Sampson de Traylesworthy soon discovered that the keeping of the coney was easy, but keeping them alive was more difficult. Only a few years ago, after a brisk morning’s walk, we happened at lunchtime to be in the right place at the right time. Eating our meagre fare, sitting on the east side of Gutter Tor, overlooking Sheepstor brook; the military were not playing, so all was quiet. The day was ours. We had noticed on the slope below us on a grassy knoll ’midst the clitter, several rabbits busily engaged in cropping the grass. After a few minutes, very abruptly, they stopped feeding and appeared very agitated, but

Dartmoor had another industry which had even older origins than the warrens. The tinners, whose trade had been already well established in 1198 when their rights to customary laws and liberties of ancient origin were recognised: hard-working, muscled men (and maybe women too), who worked long and hard in very arduous conditions and for very little pay. They would have appreciated the taste of a fresh-killed coney at the end of the day. Not surprising therefore that many of the warrens appear to have been established very close to the activities of these intrepid workers. Also living on the moor at the time of the Norman invasion, hidden away from view for much of the time, dependent upon voles, mice and ground-dwelling birds for food, was a small, very active predator, the weasel. Having a red or brown upper coat and a white belly, their long slender bodies enabled them to follow their prey into burrows. With the sudden advent of all these buries, the local weasels and their close relatives the stoats must have thought they were in rabbit heaven. Many believe

18 DARTMOOR

stayed on the knoll. We could not see what had alarmed them. Unexpectedly, by the side of the knoll appeared a weasel. Still the rabbits did not move, as if the little brown killer had mesmerised them. Without hesitation, the weasel leapt onto the back of the nearest rabbit and bit into its neck, killing it instantly. The other rabbits fled. Grasping the neck of the rabbit with its needle-sharp front teeth, the weasel carried the carcase off into the clitter. Quite a feat considering an adult rabbit may weigh as much as 2kg and a weasel approximately 500g. We felt just a little sorry for the rabbit, but privileged to have witnessed a small act of nature in the raw. The Normans were not so considerate as to leave any records as to whether the carnivorous activities of the weasels and stoats caused the embryonic industry too much of a problem. It is to be imagined that the ingenuity of the warreners and maybe their overlords too was sufficient to ensure that both meat and fur continued to be produced. Despite the best efforts of the warreners, the weasels

HISTORY

4 3

continued to prey unabated upon the rabbits. However, during the second half of the 16th century the country was beset by a Little Ice Age with a succession of long, hard winters, of which the first was 1564–5. Famine, epidemics, bad harvests, extortionate food prices and an 5 expanding population combined to produce a time of extreme hardship. In 1566 Elizabeth I introduced her ‘Acte for the Preservation of Grayne’, containing a long list of both birds and mammals whose feeding habits might be considered to have a detrimental effect on Man’s agricultural interests. Hedgehogs, moles, crows, starlings, kingfishers, many songbirds – all classed as vermin – and of course the ‘moldekytte’, the weasel; killed for a bounty of 2d (two old pence), when a week’s wage was 4d. What an incentive for the warreners to kill weasels and stoats! War had been declared on the weasels. History has not recorded how the weasels were trapped in those early days, nor locally the effect of Elizabeth’s act upon the warrening industry. But survive the warrens did, continuing to provide succulent flesh to both commoner and nobility alike. Coney fur adorned gloves and bonnets too, well into the 20th century. Hundreds of rabbits were often netted each night; and, after cleaning and loading were taken by packhorse to Plymouth, Devonport or Torbay. When, in the early 1800s Eylesbarrow Mine began operating, at least two small buries were established on the grassy slopes of

1 Base of pillow mound or bury SX 591 667 Hen Tor Warren 2 Pillow mounds (buries) SX 581 662 Ditsworthy Warren 3 Vermin trap SX 580 664 Ditsworthy Warren 4 Vermin trap SX 578 667 Ditsworthy Warren 5 Hen Tor Warren boundary stone SX 584 643

that rounded hill to provide the miners with a variation in their diet. Below the Devonport Leat, near Drivage Bottom, a lone bury is hidden in a shallow combe near the tinners’ workings, mute witness to the expansion of the warrens. In Giant’s Basin, in the Plym Valley, lay the stones that appear to have been the foundations of more buries; perchance perhaps planning approval was withheld? Alas, in February 1956, the industry came to an end with the introduction of the Rabbit Clearance Act following the devastating myxamatosis outbreak earlier that decade. The trade of warrener upon the moor had been brought to an end. No more the long nets to catch the coney, no more the terriers to kill the weasels, no more the warreners in their picturesque and ancient warren houses. Their legacy remains, carrion pool and big shed, vermin trap and dog kennel, still there to be seen, if you know where to look. Legacies of an industry that has left an indelible mark upon our moor… but therein lies another tale. ■ 1 Eric Hemery High Dartmoor

DARTMOOR 19

OUT AND ABOUT

PONIES INSPIRING PEOPLE Sue Viccars visits the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust

20 DARTMOOR

helping and feeling involved with the day-to-day business of keeping the Centre running effectively.

Last spring I went to the Centre to see for myself what goes on. At that time there were six resident ponies (now eight, some of which are up for ‘adoption’ under another of the charity’s schemes). Panels on the walls of the barn give details of the ponies’ names, ages, and character traits: a nice personal touch. Throughout the morning three young people – representing a spectrum of difficulties from challenging behaviour to severe autism – worked with the ponies in a variety of ways. Each had their favourite, for reasons ranging from ‘I like his colour’ to ‘huggiest and nicest smell’! Along with a volunteer helper students catch and tie up their chosen pony, groom it and pick up its hooves. Nothing is rushed; every action is carried out in a calm, gentle manner to maximise the ‘connection’ between student and pony. I talked to Phil and Karen, teaching assistants at Dartington primary school who were accompanying one of their students. They told me that coming to the Centre had assisted his social skills and confidence: ‘Dru works on communication skills: she makes everyone say hello and shake hands when they arrive. His confidence has grown loads since coming here – and he’s brought a friend with him today, so now he’s teaching him what to do!’ On a recent return visit to the Centre I spoke to Dru in more detail. The PIP

scheme was started in the summer of 2009 – in the early days of equineassisted therapy – with a one-week intensive pilot scheme involving four students ‘on the edge of exclusion from school’. The results were immensely positive, and the pilot followed by a Plymouth University project supervised by highly respected psychologist Prof Paul Brook and a group of third-year students, which served to endorse the value of the scheme. Today PIP takes up the majority of Dru’s working week. Students come to the Centre from local pupil referral units, as well as from the West of England School and College in Exeter, local secondary schools, and primary schools as far away as Dartmouth. Students join a group of six and learn how to work as a team, as well as with ponies; more severe cases are dealt with on a one-to-one basis. Judy, one of the charity’s trustees, confirmed what I had witnessed on my first visit. ‘Dru has an amazing ability to tune into both feral ponies and troubled kids! Her work is inspirational – and the volunteers get a great deal out of helping here as well. You don’t have to have specialist knowledge – all volunteers are trained ‘on the job’ – just a passion to help both young people and ponies. And everyone involved gains so much as a result.’ ■

PHOTOGRAPHS SUE VICCARS

his year marks the ninth anniversary of the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust, a charity set up in response to widespread concern about the long-term survival of the traditional type Dartmoor pony on Dartmoor. Originally based at Brimpts Farm, Dartmeet, the DPHT moved to a new purpose-built centre at Parke, Bovey Tracey in spring 2011 (see Issue 103), as tenants of the National Trust. It’s an impressive yet welcoming place, with neatly trimmed hedges, wellfenced paddocks, and stalls, office and classroom housed in a large American barn. Here charity manager Dru Butterfield and around 35 volunteer helpers put the aims of the DPHT into action: namely working with feral Dartmoor foals and young ponies, often straight off the moor, to accustom them to the basics of handling. The end result is a more ‘sellable’ pony, suitable either for further training as a riding or driving animal, or for conservation work. Courses are also run for Dartmoor pony owners wishing to build a positive relationship with their charges. Natural horse communication techniques are used to make the learning process as easy and painless as possible for all. But that’s not all the DPHT does (though it’s probably the most publicised aspect of their work). The charity also runs extremely worthwhile courses for young people with challenging behaviour and disabilities, under the banner ‘Ponies Inspiring People’. It has been proven that working with Dartmoor ponies can be immensely beneficial to students’ socialising skills and emotional development, by building a trusting and calm mutual relationship with the pony through a variety of activities. This will initially involve learning to handle the pony sympathetically and lead to greater challenges, which necessitate a quiet confidence and determination. These skills can then be transferable to other life experiences. Students are also encouraged to develop their teamwork skills and sense of responsibility by

For more information, or if you would like to volunteer, contact Dru Butterfield, tel: 01626 (833234), email: dru@dpht.co.uk www.dpht.co.uk.

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Dartmoor D iscovered

Little John’s Walk WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS TIM JENKINSON

he often difficult terrain of Eastern Dartmoor with its steep wooded slopes above Bovey Tracey, Lustleigh and Moretonhampstead has led to considerable under-representation in the literature. As accessibility has and continues to be a problem, very little is known of the various tors and rocks that exist in that area. This short article begins with an exploration of those close to Little John’s Walk near Bovey. High above and to the north of the town a good track leads eastward from the entrance to Stonelands (SX 812800) and runs uphill for roughly half a mile to Furzeleigh Cross (SX 819796). It seems that at one time this was a public highway and is identified as such by William Crossing (WC) in the 1912 edition of his Guide to Dartmoor, but is nowadays known as Little John’s Walk (Brown 1996). On page 301 Crossing describes the following excursion ‘the visitor, starting from Bovey will leave the town by the Moreton road, passing the old cross at Atway and ½ m beyond will take the R branch at the fork and enter Lower Aller Lane. A few hundred yards further up turn R at the cross road and soon the woods, on the verge of which John Cann’s Rocks are situated R will be reached.’ Today this route can still be walked but great care must be taken at the point where the Moretonhampstead Road from Bovey joins the A382, and then between there and Lower Aller Lane as there is no path. Whilst Crossing mentions John Cann’s Rocks in his account he rather strangely omits to describe the far grander cliff-like face that juts from the wooded hillside above and to the north of the Stonelands estate (at approximately SX 812801). Unfortunately John Cann’s Rocks are no longer as visible as when the author visited in the early 19th century, as they are now hidden in woodland to 22 DARTMOOR

the right of Little John’s Walk, but are nonetheless well worth a visit as they present as a fine array of brooding, dark and moss-covered boulders at SX 814798, some of which are seen to extend below the track. I am indebted to Steve Jenkins for drawing my attention to these rocks and encouraging me to visit. The walk uphill from here is rewarded with the sight of huge and oddly shaped boulders on the left of the track, and if the visitor carries on to the second gateway on the left and follows through a permitted path for a short distance (100m) into an area known as Stonelands Waste, he/she will see to the right of them another fine cluster of giant rocks and outcrops rearing up from the wooded floor at approximately SX 818799, a set not previously described it seems. After exploring the rocks here, steps need to be retraced to the main track turning left and then following up to the road at Furzeleigh Cross whereupon a turn to the right will lead the rambler downhill towards Bovey Tracey passing on the left the town’s hospital. Altogether this is a short walk of two hours’ maximum, but is nonetheless complemented by the reward of discovering some of the lesser-known tors and rocks on the eastern side of Dartmoor. ■ 1 Cliff above Stonelands 2 An interesting tor in Stonelands Waste: note the ‘face’ in the upper boulder 3 One of the giant boulders along Little John’s Walk 4 A cave in John Cann’s Rocks

References Brown M. (1996) The Gazetteer of Dartmoor Names Forest Publishing Newton Abbot Crossing W. (1912) Guide to Dartmoor Reprinted 1993 Peninsula Press Newton Abbot OS Explorer 110 Torquay & Dawlish

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Dartmoor Photography Workshop Part 1 Composition

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW GILBERT

Welcome to the first in a series of articles aimed at helping you to improve your photography! I have been taking photographs for over 30 years, and these days I have a gallery in Moretonhampstead as well as taking commission work and teaching the occasional workshop. In this series I am, where possible, going to focus on aspects that are common to most of today’s cameras, as well as to many phones. Sometimes we may stray into SLR camera tips, but my intent is to make these articles as general as possible. Part 1 looks at composition, by far the single most important aspect of photography, but one that is sadly often missed. Later issues will look at exposure and other camera settings and techniques.

Belstone Winter Storm This is the dramatic moorland story mentioned in Tip 1. Stormy skies and windswept trees with dark muted colours as a weak wintery sun fades from the sky. A fairly simple placement of the trees on grid lines and the horizon with the lower horizontal grid helps make the image work. Keeping the edges of the picture clear helps the eye stay in the image.

Tip 1 Every picture tells a story – what’s yours? The first thing I do when I set out to take a picture is to think about why I am doing it. It may sound trivial, but it makes a really big difference to the resulting image. The story can be as simple as a that of a great day spent walking on the moor with the kids, or an epic tale of the power of nature with the dying rays of a winter sun touching a sky full of impending rain or snow The story here is of fast moving water over a moorland scene on a late autumn morning with fallen of windswept trees and leaves in the background and a few lingering yellow ones on the tree in the dramatic tors. The key is foreground. It’s all about transitions. This that rather than shooting is where I started… blindly and hoping for a good result we stop and think about why we are taking the picture. From this simple beginning we can start to create a picture with a purpose – which nearly always results in better photos.

Tip 3 Turn on your camera viewfinder grid OK, so we have a story and have decided on what needs to be in the picture in order to tell it (hopefully Adding the grid overlay helps me make sense of the scene and start to simplify having simplified things the story. Slight movements of the camera from side to side can make a big so that just the elements difference to the result but all the time I relevant to the story are in am thinking about the story. the shot). Now we need to arrange subjects so that they look nice in the final image. Our first port of call is the socalled rule of thirds (not a rule in any meaningful sense but useful nonetheless). Most digital cameras these days have an option to turn on a grid overlay that appears over the viewfinder or preview image. If your camera has one turn it on – you may need to check the instructions to find it...

Tip 2 Keep it simple – just tell the story! Now that we know why we are taking the picture we can move on to framing or composing it; and while I could easily write a book on this topic alone some simple tips can help a lot. Our next step is to think about how to tell our story. Do we need a wide sweeping view as in the case of our dramatic landscape, or a zoomed-in shot where we can see the faces of children having fun, with their surroundings visible but not dominating the shot? The key here is to try and find the most simple photograph that tells your story; very ‘busy’ photos tend to be at best hard to look at, and at worst uninteresting. So as the saying goes – keep it simple!

Tip 4 Place things at grid lines and intersections The purpose of the grid is to assist us in placing things in the shot. The general idea is to make the important aspects align with the grid lines, or to place them at the intersection of grid lines. For instance, placing the horizon line along the upper or lower horizontal grid line is common in landscape photos – it also helps to avoid sloping skylines! Another common trick with portraits is to place one of the subject’s eyes at one of the four grid line intersections. You might line up a lone tree with a vertical grid line, and perhaps place a rock or tor at the lower intersection point on the other side – this helps balance the image. DARTMOOR 25

PHOTOGRAPHY Tip 5 Look out for background objects getting in the way Using the grid is a great way to start laying out a photo in a structured way, but we still need to watch out for a few classic photo mistakes. Perhaps the most well The blue lines here show how we can known is the ‘tree use the grid to start to tie things together and balance out the composition. Placing growing out of head’ the tree in the right hand column gives problem. We see in three room to the left for the movement of the water. The left hand rock adds interest. dimensions and know I’m also looking for things that are in that a distant tree behind the way. our subject is far away and therefore we ignore it. But photos are two-dimensional, and the tree behind the subject suddenly stands out and looks wrong because our brain sees all the elements in the same plane. Knowing the problem exists helps us to check for it – you can do this both at the time of taking the picture via the viewfinder, and also on a digital camera by looking at the image preview.

Tip 8 Set your camera to take a black-and-white JPEG and a RAW image My final composition tip for this issue is aimed at the slightly more advanced readers out there. If you are shooting in RAW format then set your camera to black-and-white and record both a JPEG and a RAW image. This will cause the camera to record and show you a black-and-white image while preserving the colour image in the RAW file for later processing. I leave my pocket camera set this way all the time. Looking at a black-andHaving checked the shot in colour it white image helps the looked pretty ok when I recomposed but checking in black and white I noticed composition to stand out that the small rock (indicated by the blue and helps demonstrate arrow here) was distracting my eye to all the previous steps. If again I recomposed slightly and took the photo again. You can spend a lot of time an image looks good in getting things just right! Notice how the black-and-white it will black and white image also lets you really focus on the arrangement of the image. almost certainly look good in colour.

Tip 6 Check the edges of the picture for distractions The next and almost last step is to check all the way around the edges of the image in the viewfinder. We have worked hard to decide on a story and lay out the elements of the picture to best tell it, so we want to try and keep the viewer’s eye from wandering ‘out’ of the image. This often happens when the edge of the photo includes part of an object. So check the edges of the image for distracting items, and if possible slightly adjust the framing of the image or zoom in/out to bring the object fully into or out of Here the image is inverted to help the photo. me focus on what’s in the image –

Following these tips should help you take better pictures, regardless of the camera you are using. Many photographers I meet are obsessed with their cameras and technical settings, but a great composition taken And here it is, compared to my initial with some slightly poor image the final one removes a lot of camera settings is likely distractions whilst keeping true to the story I want to tell. There will always be to still look good. A more that could be done but the key is to poor composition taken stop when you are happy with the result – it is art after all! perfectly is still a poor composition. If you follow these tips and want to send some Dartmoor images into the magazine we will see if we can make space for some in the next issue; email them to me at andrew@andrewgilbertfineart.com. In the next issue we will look at exposure.

rather than what my brain things is or isn’t there! Checking the edges Tip 7 Check the image for distractions there are several so I by turning it upside recompose the shot to take them away if at all possible. In this case that means down zooming in a little too. Don’t be afraid to We are finally ready to move around as you perfect the shot. take the photograph, and for the purposes of this article will assume that you are using your camera on auto and the settings are all correct! There are still a couple of things to do to make sure we have composed our picture nicely and captured the shot we are after. Once you’ve taken the photo, check the image in the camera display to see if you missed anything in the previous steps – you now have a 2D image and things may well show up you didn’t initially spot. To help you check, turn the camera so that you see the image upside down. It may sound crazy, but you are more likely to spot things that are out of place when looking at the image the wrong way up!

Kennick reservoir Here is an early morning image taken at Kennick. It was the first hard frost of the year and I wanted to capture the sense of the sun just breaking through to bring some warmth to a cold scene. Mist rising off the water and the frosted grass all help to tell the story. The platform and rock both lead the eye into the image – hopefully to discover the mist!

If you are interested in more detail or have questions you can find my website at www.andrewgilbertfineart.com as well as links to Twitter, Facebook and all the usual social media; or pop into the Gallery in Moretonhampstead for a chat.

26 DARTMOOR

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  16, 17, 18 May  Saturday 9th March    09.30 – 16.00    www.moretonfestival.com      

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16, 17, 18 May

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2013

DEVON’S BEST

     100 exhibitors, Arts trail, Cookery demonstrations,     Children’s Activities, Music, Baking demonstrations,   Grand  Kitchen Jumble, Cookery  Theatre                                      

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HISTORY

Dartmoor Village Life in Old Photographs

Customs PETER F. MASON

ver the centuries life in England has been marked by annual festivals and rituals. Whether they mark mid-winter or the arrival of spring, or whether they have their origins in an annual market, these events provide people with an opportunity to meet and enjoy themselves, particularly in rural areas with scattered populations. Widecombe Fair, Tavistock Goose Fair and Lustleigh May Day are long established and well known, but there are other events that took place in the past that were important, and the pagan origin of some customs is often forgotten. For instance, how many who attend ram

roasts today know that they derive from a pagan rite? Holne Ram Feast, for example, died out in the latter years of the 19th century. On Old Midsummer Day (6 July) a ram was chased across the moor, captured, decorated with flowers, and carried to a standing stone over which its throat was cut. It was roasted whole and unskinned, and there was a scramble for the best cuts at midday. A similar custom was practised at Bucklandin the-Moor. Sadly, I have not been able to find photographs of either of these customs. Not surprisingly, old photographs of events that took place at night, such as the wassailing of apple orchards, are also rare.

Lustleigh May Day has been celebrated every year since 1905, except for a gap of 12 years during and after World War II. Started by Cecil Torr, the crowning of the May Queen and maypole dancing took place initially on the hillside above Wreyland. The first photograph is of Olive Chudley, the second May Queen. Since May Day was restarted in 1954 the ceremony has taken place in Town Orchard in the centre of the village. However, as can be seen in the second photograph of Patricia Powell, May Queen in 1956, little has changed in the way the ceremony is staged. Courtesy of the Lustleigh Community Archive

Bovey Tracey Mummers line up in the wet. Mumming plays were often performed by working men in rural areas in the winter as a means of earning at a time when there was little or no paid work. The tradition is carried on at several places around Dartmoor including South Zeal and Buckland Abbey. Courtesy Dartmoor Archive and Bovey Tracey Heritage Trust

28 DARTMOOR

HISTORY

The custom of Beating the Bounds of a parish has serious origins. At a time where there were few maps and not everyone could read them, it was important for parishioners to learn and remember the boundaries of their parish on the ground and to ensure that they hadn’t been encroached upon by a neighbouring parish. This was particularly important to the moorland parishes where grazing rights were essential to the livelihood of the community. Youngsters were helped to learn the boundaries by being bumped on a boundary stone, as in this photograph of Beating the Bounds of Belstone parish on Wednesday 18 July 1951: Frank Kelly is the flagman who led the beaters giving the ‘reminder’ to John Bullen. Gordon Westaway and Stan Sheldrake are hanging on to Mr Bullen; Bill Mortimore is blowing the horn. Courtesy of Chris Walpole, Belstone Village Archive

Fire has always played an important part in marking midsummer. At Buckfastleigh the celebrations would conclude with a wheel being set alight and rolled down the bonfire hill to be quenched in the stream at the bottom. Boys and young men would run with it, using poles to keep it on course, as it was believed that it was bad luck if the wheel did not reach the stream. In the 1950s the custom was revived in Widecombe parish. A cartwheel with ribbons tied to it to represent the flames was rolled down the slopes of Mel Tor towards the River Dart. In this photograph William French, wearing a beret, holds one side of the wheel. He was known as ‘Bill Lodger’ because he lived at Higher Lodge, Spitchwick. Holding the centre of the wheel is George Hewison and Frederick Bamsey is on the other side. Others in the photograph include Eileen Axford, Gerald and Ena Smerdon, John Weymouth, Col. John Whidborne, Wilfred Beard and others. Courtesy of Totnes Image Bank Additional information from Tom Greeves

Up until 1977 horse races were held at Wild Tor Well as part of Beating the Bounds of Throwleigh parish. Courtesy of Throwleigh Archive

DARTMOOR 29

HISTORY

Manorial Courts Leet date back to Saxon times. They dealt with petty offences as well as enforcing regulations regarding the quality of staples such as bread and ales. With successive reorganisations of local government, manorial courts were stripped of their powers and those which remain are purely ceremonial. Ashburton is one place where the Court Leet still meets every November to appoint a Portreeve and other officials. In this photograph we see a crowd gathered, possibly in 1908, for the South Brent Manorial Court Leet. Courtesy of Totnes Image Bank

Meavy Oak Fair, 1963. The history of Meavy Oak Fairs is lost in the mists of time. There was a St Peterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fair held on 29 June and the book Devonshire Calendar Customs mentions that in 1883 Meavy Oak Fair was held on Trinity Tuesday. It is now always held on the third Saturday in June. There was usually skittles, dancing around the Oak Tree (after which it is named) whilst, according to Baring-Gould, a small band played on a platform in the tree (believed to be over 1000 years old). Tea and ale were served at the Inn and a play was performed by the children. Latterly the Fair has been used to raise money for village needs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in the 1920s funds went towards a new rectory and new school building; in 1933 towards casting and re-hanging of the church bells; in 1956 for the village hall. Today all profits are divided between the church, school and numerous charities. Courtesy of P.H-L Archive

References Cooper, Quentin and Sullivan, Paul Maypoles, Martyrs and Mayhem Bloomsbury, London 1994 Folk Festivals and Traditions of Devon Devon Folklife Register, Exeter 1980 Hole, Christina British Folk Customs Book Club Associates, London 1976 Roud, Steve The English Year Penguin Books, London 2006

30 DARTMOOR

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NOSTALGIA

The Cribbetts of Princetown Tania Crosse explains how talking to local residents helps set the background for her 1950s Dartmoor novels PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF LESLIE AND EVELYN CRIBBETT

s my readers will know, the majority of my novels illustrate the fascinating history of western Dartmoor during the Victorian era. So, when, some years ago, I was asked to pen some stories set during a more recent period, I wondered where to start! However, upon reflection, I realised that there was a great deal happening on the moor in the 1950s from which I could draw inspiration. Generally, lives were still governed by the experiences of war which, for an author, presented a wealth of plausible, personal situations. Young men were still doing their National Service. Primitive workmen’s cottages on the moor were being condemned. We still had rationing, and yet private motorcars were increasing in number and people were taking holidays. The Cribbett family at Tor Royal Lodg

e in 1914

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The Cribbett family Front row 1 Norman, 2 Thurza (Mum), 3 Ivy, 4 Hilda MIDDLE row 5 Lesley, 6 Albert (Dad), 7 Horace Back row 8 Ron, 9 Bill, 10 Hector (Twin) Photo taken in 1954, outside Tor Royal Lodge, Princetown on the occasion of Hector’s wedding

Leslie and Evelyn during their courting days

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The Sinclair family Front row 1 Rex First row 2 Graham, 3 George (Dad), 4 Emily (Mum), 5 Doreen Second row 6 Dennis, 7 Esther Third row 8 Evelyn, 9 Dereck, 10 Jack, 11 Clarice Fourth row 12 George, 13 Cyril, 14 Mavis, 15 Desmond, 16 Bernard Absent from the picture: Joyce. Photo taken in 1953, outside their house in Moorland View, Princetown

Not surprisingly, Princetown was a very different place from what it is now, still perceived mainly as a settlement for the prison and its staff, and as a centre for the local farming community. Not so many of its inhabitants could afford the aforesaid car, and they relied on the railway and the even more infrequent bus service to connect them to the outside world. When the railway closed in 1956, Princetown folk became even more reliant on the shops that had become established over the previous century. The already strong community spirit grew even stronger as demand for such things as entertainment and medical services – enjoyed by the outside world – rapidly increased.

NOSTALGIA

Nowadays, with private transport the norm, Princetown’s isolation is no more and gone are almost all the shops and the town hall where regular dances were held and films shown each week. But there is still a strong sense of belonging, and this was something I wanted to draw upon for my stories. And what better way to do so than to interview people who had lived there at the time? So, through the local history society, I was introduced to Leslie and Evelyn Cribbett, a most charming couple who have since become good friends. Leslie was born in Princetown in 1931. His mother was from the Worth family who already went back generations in the area. They lived at Tor Royal Lodge selling cream teas to passers-by and taking in lodgers. Leslie’s father hailed from Ashburton, but came to Princetown to work as a lengthsman tracklayer on the railway. Leslie was one of eight children born to the couple, and most of his siblings remained in Princetown much of their lives. Hector ‘Twin’ Cribbett, who sadly died in January 2011, became the local coalman. ‘I went to Princetown School, of course,’ Leslie told me. ‘During the war, mind, us local children only went to school for two days a week so the evacuees could be taught on the other days, like. But on those three other days, us local boys was expected to work on the farms as part of the war effort. Had to have a green card, you did, signed by the owner of the farm to say why you was working there. I remember helping with the harvest out at Nun’s Cross Farm, working until midnight sometimes. A wonderful experience it were for a young lad! And I helped the school caretaker for the princely sum of ten bob a week. That’s fifty pence now, in it,’ he grinned. ‘Don’t sound much, but it went a lot further back along!’ By 1946, Leslie had left school and was working for Bolts in the centre of Princetown, a store that sold everything from bread baked in store to Wellington boots. But then in 1947 he began working on building maintenance for the Duchy of Cornwall. That was, of course, one of the worst winters on record, with snowdrifts like mountains and many parts of the moor cut off for weeks. ‘Just getting from one place to another were tricky,’ Leslie recalled. ‘There were no indoor plumbing, of course. People had flushing lavatories, but they were in outhouses. I can’t remember how many of them had frozen pipes that winter! I’d unfreeze them in the morning, only to be called back again in the afternoon. You had to keep flushing the toilet to stop the ice forming, or keep an oil lamp burning under the pipes.’ In 1949, Leslie had to leave his idyllic Dartmoor life to do his two years’ National Service which he spent in Egypt. On his return, it was compulsory to remain in the Territorial Army for a further three years. The year 1954 was particularly special for Leslie as he married Evelyn, but that was also when

Wedding photo, 1954

TOP DOWN The Plume of Feathers and The Devil’s Elbow, 1957 Tavistock Road: war memorial and Lord’s Cafe Ponies in Princetown c1934 PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE DARTMOOR TRUST

DARTMOOR 33

NOSTALGIA

he joined the local fire service as a retained firefighter, a position he held for very many years. ‘We had a bell connected in the hall of the cottage so I knew when I were needed on a shout.’ Leslie’s long-term service to the Duchy was rewarded when in 1979 he received the Royal Victoria Medal from HRH the Queen at Buckingham Palace. A mere 17 years later he received an even higher accolade, the RVM Silver Bar, presented to him by HRH Prince Charles again at the palace. Every four years, Leslie attends the RVM reunion at Windsor Castle, and because of his long service, he and Evelyn have enjoyed a couple of special visits to Prince Charles’s home at Highgrove. ‘Spoken to Prince Charles on so many occasions, I has, that we’m almost friends!’ Leslie told me, glowing with pride. Retirement comes to us all in time, though, and Leslie celebrated with a huge party at the Two Bridges Hotel in 1996. Evelyn’s father originally came from Plymouth but moved to Princetown when he took up the position of baker at the aforementioned Bolts Store. Evelyn was therefore born in Princetown, the 10th of 15 Sinclair children. Being three years his junior, she never knew Leslie in either the classroom or the playground. On leaving school, she went to work at the Plume of Feathers, the oldest building in Princetown, for 15/- per week. After a spell at Bolts and then at the tiny WH Smith newsagents, she decided she preferred housekeeping to shop work, and returned to the inn. ‘In those days, the Feathers had its own smallholding at the back and I loved looking after the animals,’ she told me. ‘And there were a shed where some of the local boys Leslie and Evelyn in 2012 used to meet up. That’s how I met Leslie.’ A year after they were married, they moved into their delightful cottage and have lived there ever since. Evelyn always worked even when bringing up a family. Lloyds had a tiny bank in Princetown, opening one day a week. ‘Back in 1958, I were paid 7/6d a week to keep it spick and span. Did that for nearly 40 years and loved every minute, I did.’ So, with a lifetime of memories, Leslie and Evelyn provided me with a treasure trove of fascinating facts. Here is just a sample of what found its way into Lily’s Journey and Hope at Holly Cottage.

34 DARTMOOR

There were many more shops in Princetown than now, including two butchers. With rationing still in force, you needed to register with butchers and other food stores. Lord’s Café was a general store that also sold boots and shoes. Bottom Finch’s, run by one-armed postman Robert Finch who delivered post to certain outlying properties on horseback, sold mainly food, while Top Finch’s sold food and drapery. ‘I remember the overwhelming smell of sweets as you walked into the shop,’ Evelyn reminisced. There was a fish and chip shop, although not where it is now. The main store, though, was Bolts, which sold virtually everything including shoes, top London fashions, material and dress patterns as well as every food item available. ‘They had a tremendous ordering service which would get in items from London within a matter of days. Brilliant it was.’ There was also Top Bolts in what had originally been the Co-op, selling hardware, china, records, cameras and film, and also ran a daily film-developing service. This closed in the early 1950s, and became the youth club. One room was also the surgery where a doctor from Tavistock visited twice a week, and Evelyn remembers taking her children there. As well as the September Fair, there was the annual August carnival with a carnival queen and fairy, and a fancydress procession through the streets. ‘My brother, Twin, would clean out his coal lorry so the lady from Bolts could throw packets of sweets and crisps to the children from it,’ Leslie informed me. Football played a strong role in the community. The three local teams were Princetown United, Dartmoor Rangers and the Prison Officers’ Club. This inspired a minor but hugely significant episode in Lily’s Journey. Coronation Day in 1953 saw public afternoon teas and a huge bonfire beacon just outside the village. A stray rocket landed in the box of remaining fireworks, setting them all off, and everyone had to run for cover. ‘Caused a right old rumpus that did!’ the couple laughed. I could go on, but if you read the books, you will hopefully be transported back to those nostalgic times. There was far more that Leslie and Evelyn told me that did not appear in those two stories, but it all simmers in the back of my mind for the future. ■ Tania Crosse’s latest novel, Wheels of Grace, set in Walkhampton and Tavistock during World War I, will be published by Robert Hale in March 2013. For details of all her books, visit www.tania-crosse.co.uk.

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WILDLIFE

Helping our

Honeybees Jessie Watson Brown and Tim Hall

eekeeping has been taking place on Dartmoor for centuries. The earliest mention of beekeeping in Devon is in the Domesday Book, believed to be in the Lustleigh area, and arguably reached its zenith with Brother Adams and his work at Buckfast Abbey. But in the last few decades honeybees across the country have faced unprecedented challenges. Our relationship with the honeybee goes back hundreds of thousands of years. From foraging for wild honey to keeping bees in hives of our own design we have interacted with these extraordinary, social animals. It is only in the last 150 years, with certain beekeeping practices designed to maximise honey production and intensive farming techniques, that bee numbers have declined. While the wet summer of 2012 may have been an inconvenience to us and a challenge to farmers, to the honeybees it posed as a life threat. As well as the wellpublicised struggle the bees suffer from pesticides, disease and loss of habitat, last year they also had to contend with some of their staple blooms being washed away by the heavy rain – or not even appearing. Honeybees tend not to leave the hive during wet and cold weather, and during prolonged periods, such as those experienced last spring and summer, are unable to forage and pollinate. Beekeepers across the country found honey production was down by 50 percent in 2012, along with reduced bee-pollinated crop harvests, such as apples. As the bees emerge this spring – hopefully to a warmer and drier summer – there are a number of things we can all do to support them. Maybe it could be our way of saying ‘Thank you’ for the sweetness of honey on our toast and the pollination of a third of our food. In order to make honey and thrive, bees need plenty of forage throughout the year. Bees and flowers have co-evolved over millions of years to provide each other with what they need. In the UK 95 per cent of our wildflower meadows have been lost since the 1940s, and whilst Dartmoor boasts swathes of nectar-rich flowers such as heather, there is much that gardeners and farmers could do to support local bee populations by planting bee-friendly plants. Many medicinal and culinary herbs including lavender, thyme and borage, and trees such as apple and willow, are beneficial to bees,

36 DARTMOOR

as is encouraging or planting up wildflower meadows. The chemicals used in intensive farming are often damaging to bee health. Most notable at the current time are neonicotinoids, a group of systemic insecticides whose use has been banned or suspended in some other countries due to increasing evidence of this toxicity: sadly their use is unlimited in this country. Support the bees by reducing or eliminating the use of chemicals on the plants in your garden, including homegrown food, or by buying food that has been grown free from chemicals. This benefits the bees directly by reducing insecticides, and indirectly by encouraging ‘organic’, wildlife-friendly land use. Quite possibly the most fulfilling way to support the honeybee is to keep bees. It is often simpler and cheaper than imagined. By having direct contact with a colony of bees you become even more aware of what’s going on around you: in neighbours’ fields, nearby meadows, what is flowering and when, how the weather is changing. In essence, the needs of the bees. Historically bees have been kept on most Dartmoor farms and smallholdings as an adjunct to the main farming practices to supply honey and other products from the hive. The bees just got on with it. Now that these crucial insects are struggling as a result of our actions we need to help the bees get back to a state of resilience and good health. Maybe we need to return to the days when many households cared for a few beehives each, rather than a few beekeepers keeping hundreds. ■ To discover more about keeping bees naturally, and for information about courses held by Tim and Jessie, have a look at Natural Beekeeping at Embercombe in the Teign Valley at www. embercombe.co.uk/bees. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Bees feeding on willow Bee hives at Embercombe Jessie with the bees PHOTOGRAPHS TIM HALL

TRADITIONAL SKILLS

Setting Boundaries WORDS MAXINE MCADAMS PHOTOGRAPHS MAXINE MCADAMS AND DAVIN FOSTER Trimming one of the rails with a side axe to create the tenon

In the first of a series of articles exploring the work of rural craftspeople working on Dartmoor, Maxine McAdams meets Davin Foster and experiences a day with a ‘traditional boundary man’. Seated at the shave horse Davin uses a draw-knife to help form the gate post

O Putting the finishing touches on the rails or ‘bays’

n an unseasonably frosty Dartmoor morning, the first thing that is made clear is that there is no such thing as a typical day. This is a major part of the appeal to Davin Foster, who first started working in rural skills 21 years ago. Turning his hand to dry stone walling, hedge laying, turf hedging, and green woodworking Davin describes himself as a ‘traditional boundary man’. I join him in the final stages of a commission in Babeny: making a cleft chestnut gate and fencing to surround a picturesque thatched cottage in the hamlet. With the early morning temperature at a finger-numbing coldness Davin starts work with trainee James Dyson; using a froe to evenly split the chestnut poles and produce an orderly stack of rails for the fencing. As he works, he explains what drew

him into working in rural skills at the age of 21. ‘Since leaving school I had been working in the steelworks but when I got made redundant in the early nineties, the Job Centre put me on what was called an Employment Training Scheme – which meant I had to do a certain amount of hours training with an organisation to earn my dole money each week. ‘I did my training with the National Trust which later led to some seasonal warden‘s jobs. At the same time, a friend of mine introduced me to a charity called the Devon Rural Skills Trust so I went on their Saturday courses to develop my skill levels in walling and hedge laying. The people that I met during that time – like Nigel Adams, Mick Jones and Jack Connabeer – enthused everyone they came into contact with about

DARTMOOR 37

TRADITIONAL SKILLS traditional skills and I found it was a way of life that really suited me.’ The chestnut fencing is a relatively new enterprise which Davin started in 2009. He is currently in the process of extending his workshop at home to concentrate more fully on the fencing as well as making chestnut and oak furniture; but says it took time to get the original idea off the ground. ‘It was quite difficult at first because sweet chestnut is not usually found in coppices in Devon. It is more popular in the Southeast where it has traditionally been used for fencing horse paddocks. I’ve now found a couple of good local suppliers though and between them I can source what I need.’ Sweet chestnut was introduced to Britain by the Romans and is naturally rich in tannin, so is ideal for outdoor use. It is strong and splits well, and with a lifespan of 30 years and upwards, it can easily outlast manufactured tanninised timber. Part of its appeal lies in its appearance: age and weathering bestow a beautiful silver colouring to the wood, making it look as fundamental to the Dartmoor landscape as granite boulders and structures. ‘I find it’s easier to make a living working in a range of different skills rather than specialising in one. And the work naturally falls into seasonal patterns: hedge laying and fencing in the winter and walling in the summer months. It is the pattern that people working on the land here have been doing for centuries.’ Davin asks James to start splitting some shorter lengths of chestnut which will become the pickets, nailed to the fence later on. He carefully watches for a few moments, gives some words of advice and then sits at the shave horse to shape the tenons (the ends of the rails which will slot into the mortise holes in the posts) with a draw-knife. It seems a timeless picture and I wonder if modern power tools ever have a place in his work? ‘I enjoy using the traditional tools. They are quieter and more satisfying to use, but you also have to be as efficient and as cost-effective as possible – so you need to strike a happy medium. For instance, not 38 DARTMOOR

Trainee James Dyson uses a froe to split the chestnut and make the fence pickets

Hedgelaying is another job of the boundary man: Davin in action in last year’s Devon Rural Skills Trust hedge-laying competition

many professional hedge layers work without a chainsaw, and I’m sure that if hedge layers 100 years ago had the opportunity to use them they’d have jumped at it! But there are some tools which really can’t be bettered: the side axe and draw-knife are two good examples.’

Davin then takes the side axe and some rails to the front of the cottage where the end posts have already been fixed in place. He does some final trimming up of each tenon and slots them, one at a time, into the mortise joints before moving onto the next post. He explains that commissions such

TRADITIONAL SKILLS

Making a chestnut fence

• After measuring up, be clear about what you want the finished

product to look like. Careful planning is needed at this stage because nothing comes off the shelf! • After working out what’s needed, let the coppice know. They will cut the chestnut to standard lengths. In a Sussex-style post-and-rail fence, posts are 5ft 6in long and rails 10ft. The posts need to stand 3ft 6in out of the ground and the rails become 9ft long when they are mortised into the posts (the rails become known as ‘bays’ at this point). The poles should be as straight as possible – but chestnut is an organic material, and the odd curve can add to the charm. • Make the rails for the fence by cleaving the chestnut poles with a froe and roughly shaping the ends with a side axe. An 18–20- year-old chestnut pole will be around 6in in diameter; once this has been split twice you should get three to four rails from each quarter. • Fix the end and gate posts in place, then with a mortising auger drill two holes 1in apart and chisel out the mid-section to create the mortise. • Define the shape of the tenons on the end of the rails with a side axe and draw-knife to ensure a good fit in the mortise. • Slot the bays in the mortise and move on to the next post. • When all the bays are in place, nail on the pickets. As they are all slightly different shapes and sizes it is better to space them by eye.

In time the chestnut will age and silver to blend beautifully with the granite in this Dartmoor garden

as these – private individuals restoring old properties – now form a large part of his client base. ‘My main sources of work used to be dry stone walling, stone facing and hedge laying on farms and private estates, but that has changed over the years. Grants to help pay for this work have disappeared, and as landowners prioritise their spending, areas like stock management understandably take precedence over the boundaries. But the state of decline is escalating – as less is spent on walls and hedges each year, they fall into greater neglect and the amount of money and effort needed to bring them back to a working state spirals. ‘This is going to have knock-on effects on Dartmoor and throughout the Southwest. The countryside doesn’t naturally revert to what we see around us: it is a managed landscape, but if we don’t invest in that process it will disintegrate.’ This is the situation that James now faces as he begins his career as a working craftsperson. At the end of his training with the Devon Rural Skills

Trust, he hopes to incorporate what he has learned into his professional life and widen the repertoire he currently offers as a gardener. The 42-year-old from South Brent initially became interested in rural skills due to a belief that our growing disconnection from our environment, and woodlands in particular, was leading to the demise of important knowledge. This inspired him to learn more himself. And to his surprise, what he found was very encouraging. ‘I’d always felt like I was carving my own path – that I was looking to work and live in a way which most people didn’t find viable any more – but after I began to make contacts in the world of rural skills I found a whole new community open up to me which was very much alive and kicking, and passionate about what it did. Now for the first time I feel like I can make a bona fide career out of what I’m interested in.’ Instructing with the charity which provided much of his own initial training has in recent years been a growing part of Davin’s work balance.

‘It is important that the skills are passed on to others – and it works both ways. The trainees are all so different and often have skills that you can learn from. It’s also useful if you are working on a big project as you have a readymade pool of people to draw upon who have the right skill set.’ His pleasure in passing on his knowledge is obvious, and I ask him if he would like to see any of his three children following in his footsteps? ‘Some people may think it’s a hard way of life – but I think things are only difficult if you don’t want to do them. If your heart is in your work then it becomes a pleasure and the hardships don’t matter. So I’d love to see them come into this kind of work; as long as it made them happy.’ ■

For more information about Davin Foster’s work email: davin@ruralcraftsman.co.uk or phone 07812 713005.

DARTMOOR 39

ICE AGE DARTMOOR

Understanding the Dartmoor Landscape Part 9 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS RICHARD HORSHAM

Glaciation on Dartmoor An improved explanation of Dartmoor’s ice age legacy The argument

Compared to the mountainous glaciation of the Brecon Beacons, 80 miles north, Dartmoor’s landscape is much more subdued, and lacks obvious signs of glaciation. The consensus view, which became an orthodoxy, was that, ‘Quaternary glacial ice barely impinged on SW England with the maximum limits of the various ice advances now being reasonably well established’1, and Dartmoor was never glaciated. As with any consensus view many questions were left unresolved and some never asked, such as: • Why are there so few tors on the central plateaus? • Why are some tors major complex structures, some small isolated monoliths, and others at stages in between? • What are the short dry valley systems that are not part of the current drainage network? Why are there numerous deep valleys where the upper slopes have sharp changes of slope? • Why is some of the growan so compacted it rings when hit? • Why are some valley bottoms very

40 DARTMOOR

Halfway between Dartmoor and the Beacons, Exmoor was found to have Map key its own ice cap at 426m asl (above Icefield, North Moor sea level). A glaciologist, Dr Stephan Suggested icefield Harrison, discovered hard evidence for South Moor this in The Punchbowl on Winsford Glacier valley Hill (SS 884 345), and subsequently argued that Dartmoor should also have Possible glacier valley had its own ice cap.4 A decade later he Over-deepened valley and others, using independent climate Altiplanation terraces modelling, aerial photography and Elevation in metres Proto cirque/nivation hollow fieldwork, found strong supporting evidence that north Dartmoor had its Meltwater channel own icefield with glacier erosion.5 Boulder fan This evidence is subtle and difficult to Possible erratic recognise without expert interpretation. Dartmoor’s periglacial activity far outlasted glacial action, and some landforms look the same but are formed hummocky when most are not? in different ways, and their genesis hard • Why are some valley heads deep to determine. This partly explains the and entrenched when many are not? reason for a 70-year gap between the • Why are some very large single last suggestion of a glaciated Dartmoor blocks of granite found in places where there are very few and today.6 other blocks? The introduction of the glaciation The process of glaciation of Dartmoor hypothesis2 begins the Over long periods of time, from hundreds resolution of many of these because it to thousands of years, intensely cold puts them into a landsystem context: climatic conditions allowed small ice in this case a glacial landsystem. patches to grow and coalesce into what Such a grouping of landforms can became on Dartmoor a plateau icefield. logically imply that certain other types When the build-up and compaction of should be found in the same system, snow into ice is greater than its removal and help to create a more coherent then glaciation occurs. understanding of that system. A consequence of this theory is Climate models produce ice more that a number of established views extensive than previously thought.7 Two about landform development on build-up times were used, 665 years and Dartmoor need to be reconsidered; 1400 years, and most of the landform how tors evolved would be much evidence can be reconciled with these. affected by a glaciated moorland. ‘The development of glaciers depends This is good scientific practice: trying on survival of snow and ice from one to get better explanations about the year to the next’.8 The altitude at which Dartmoor countryside. Maybe some of snowfall and melt are in perfect balance Worth’s references to ice action also is known as the ‘climatic snow line’ or need to be reviewed and revived in ‘equilibrium line altitude’ (ELA). Although light of the new evidence?3

ICE AGE DARTMOOR snow will have covered Dartmoor for much of the year it was thought to be well below the regional ELA, and therefore not capable of supporting its own icefield. Using theoretical modelling for a plateau icefield, a recently recognised glacial form, it was found that aided by its wet climate Dartmoor could have been cold and wet enough for snow to build up to form ice.9 Dartmoor’s gently sloping surfaces encouraged a plateau style icefield to build up. It was largely dry based, frozen to and protective of, the underlying surface. As the icefield surface grew outwards it would drain into valley heads forming thick, warm-based glacier fronts.10 Rocks embedded in the ice acted as abrasive teeth and in this way one of nature’s most effective erosive agents etched into the valley landscape, leaving a legacy of its passing. At a certain size and volume an icefield has sufficient cooling effect that a feedback regime can result, whereby the ELA is reduced in altitude.These changes should be recognisable by the height at which different glacial landforms are found. ‘We are saying the broad high plateau areas in the middle of North Dartmoor were able to produce glaciers and these thickened and then flowed downhill into the valleys. The highest ground (such as the area around Yes Tor) was quite narrow and glaciers on these locations could not develop as successfully.’11

Evidence Both Evans and Harrison12 make it quite clear that they have been conservative in their interpretation of the evidence and that some origins are ambiguous, such as the rock-fronted lobes and the altiplanation terraces (see below). There is however a close link between their model’s predictions and the ground evidence. The moraine or drift deposit evidence tells of at least two phases of glacial activity. One was short term and restricted, with a higher ELA indicated by the Slipper Stones (SX 562 888) moraine at 450m asl. The extent of this icefield has been modelled and is shown on the accompanying map. An earlier icefield was more extensive and longer term. Its ELA was lower with an elevation ranging from 310–470m asl, as recognised at Corn Ridge/Corn Hole proto-cirque (SX 554 896).

Corn Hole, proto-cirque, from Shelstone Tor. November 2012

Once the plateau icefield was established outlet lobes would descend into lower basin areas, such as the Amicombe/Cut Combe Water basin (SX 58 84). Beyond these areas preferential accumulation accompanied by snowblow also built up wet-based glacier ice in valley heads, eventually moving downvalley and leaving a range of subdued surface evidence of its passage. Outlet lobes from the higher plateau icefield are represented by glacier moraines in the major river valley basins.

Looking up the East Dart River towards its confluence with Ladehill Brook (SX 638 814) containing hummocky drift. The sinuous ridge which cuts across the picture is a terminal moraine. It goes uphill from left to right and periglacial landscapes cannot produce constructional ridges that go uphill. It must therefore be of glacial origin. On its surface is perched a large erratic.

Features of Dartmoor’s plateau icefield landsystem Plateau icefields grow on gently sloping surfaces and have subdued landforms partly developed rather than fully formed. Consequently this legacy is difficult to recognise and interpret but can helpfully be divided into: 1 Deposits left behind as the ice retreated A possible esker, the only one so far identified, has been located in the upper Varracombe Valley at SX 623 842, close to an impressive series of meltwater channels. It is a small winding ridge of sediments deposited by a meltwater

stream that ran beneath the ice. After the ice receded what remained was the long bank of deposits. Glacial moraines or Drift: moving ice picks up, carries and deposits rock debris or moraines. Below Sittaford Tor (SX 634 827) as the glacier retreated it left a terminal moraine, but further upvalley it stagnated, resulting in hummocky ground. Moraines provide the most important evidence of glaciation on Dartmoor. End moraines found lying across valleys indicate the edge or snout of a glacier. Boulder drift sheets with rounded fronts forming rocky blankets are common surface features on the edges of the plateau and may indicate an earlier more extensive glacial period. Sometimes they drape over edges of over-deepened valleys. An alternative interpretation, given the long timescale of periglacial landscape change, could be gelifluction sheet or solifluction lobe13 (see photo below).

Drift crest on lower slopes of Rough Tor (SX 612 793). February 2008

Sediments overlying bedrock are sometimes surprisingly very compact rather than loose. Something heavy, such as overlying ice, is needed to achieve this, resulting in a material that is so hard that it rings when hit. Soil scars on the east side of Hollowcombe Bottom are hard and compacted. The long axis of the stones in the sediment point downhill but slope upwards. If they were soliflucted material they would point downhill but also slope downhill. Something very powerful has pushed these upwards, and ice is the only agent possible. 2 Erosional forms as the ice melted Meltwater channels form as water drains away down convenient gradients that are not always pre-existing channels. The result is short lengths of dry channel, often in groups, with no obvious drainage basin and often finishing DARTMOOR 41

ICE AGE DARTMOOR

Varracombe meltwater channels (SX 622 842). October 2007

before an active river channel is met. The Varracombe is a spectacular example. A second type is the deep valley that seems to begin abruptly with steep headwater slopes. Hollowcombe Bottom (SX 623 790 ) has been cited by Evans,14 but the Cowsic (SX 593 797), which is similar, could be the same type of feature. Both of these also have groups of short meltwater channels, creating a seemingly corrugated hillslope, on their valley sides. A possible third type may have been identified on the South Moor (see below). Many meltwater channels are located on east- and north-facing slopes (see map). 3 Erosional forms resulting from moving ice Highly elongated drumlins occur as hummocky ground at the north end of Ladehill Brook (SX 634 827), an unusual feature on Dartmoor.15 The sandy growan provides the preferred conditions for drumlin formation.16 Proto-cirque and/ or nivation hollow of Corn Hole (photo on page 41) and the Slipper Stones. These are large amphitheatres that could be the beginnings of glacial cirques.

The Slipper Stones from Black Tor (SX 563 888). The line of boulders is a moraine left by ice that had accumulated in the hollow as it melted. The Slipper Stones show evidence of ice moving over them and plucking steps into its smooth surface, creating a roche moutonneé. November 2012

There are a number of similar but smaller hollows on Dartmoor, and these have yet to be closely examined to determine their genesis.17 The metamorphic landforms known as altiplanation terraces occurring around the edge of Dartmoor have been interpreted as periglacial nivation hollows;18 although Evans has pointed them out to be proto-cirques and

42 DARTMOOR

indicators of early erosion by glaciers,19 apart from the Sourton Tors’ (SX 543 898) terraces they are way beyond any other glacial landform (see map). Over-deepened valleys Over-deepened or weakly U-shaped valleys document an earlier extensive phase of glaciation. Although this feature is frequent on many, particularly east-facing, valley sides, it is only briefly referred to by Evans.20

Bonehill Rocks (SX 732 774) November 2012

Branscombe’s Loaf (SX 553 891) August 2012. Two contrasting examples of a subdued and an unmodified tor

Weakly U-shaped valley of the West Okement at Black Tor (SX 567 894). August 2012

Over-deepened valley of the East Dart River (SX 638 805). July 2007

Roches moutonneés are plucked and smoothed bedrock forms. Ice moving over the east side of Corn Ridge has been responsible for the Slipper Stones (see photo). They are a 100m exposure of smoothed granite lying parallel to the steep valley side. Partway down is a 2m rough step where ice has frozen onto and plucked the granite away. This is the most convincing evidence of ice action on Dartmoor.21 This and an associated moraine that runs parallel to the valley are seen as the only unequivocal palaeoglacier evidence on north Dartmoor.22 4 Tors in a glaciated landscape Dartmoor’s tors are known for their archetypal ‘woolsack’ appearance,23 however some are mere granite stumps. Branscombe’s Loaf (SX 553 891) on the edge of the plateau summit is one such isolated resistant monolith (see following photos). In general the degree of modification of tors seems to increase with elevation. Evans has related a simple model and classification of glacial modified tors to the plateau icefield on Dartmoor. ‘The highest and most extensive plateau areas were occupied by ice for the longest cumulative period of

time throughout the Pleistocene, thereby explaining... the survival of subdued tors in areas glaciated less regularly’.24 Tors are delicate features in the landscape, often with loosely stacked and perched blocks that would not survive even short periods of wet-based erosive glacial conditions; so how have some survived whereas others are heavily eroded? Evans discusses the pattern of different tor types and how they provide clues to their development according to how much of their early form they retain depending on how much, if any, glacial modification they experienced. 25 He does not entertain the idea that some tor-absent localities may be due to structural rather than glacial control.26

Fur Tor from the regulally glacial-eroded surface of Great Kneeset (SX 588 858). The snow-covered platform in the foreground is the remains of an eroded tor. January 1991

There are a few tors on the upland plateau of the North Moor. Their general absence at its centre matches the model of a small ice cap covering the higher central areas, either subduing or destroying existing tors, or preventing their formation.27 Tor development may have been suppressed in areas of relatively thick ice resulting from prolonged and cumulative ice cover, especially the Hangingstone/Black Hill/Cut Hill central ridge. The model indicates that this should also have been a divide for migrating ice

ICE AGE DARTMOOR ‘where significant ice flow could have played a significant role in eroding Tors’.28 The presence of tors in areas of former glaciation on Dartmoor has been used by Evans to infer frozen bed conditions and a thin ice-sheet covering. Cold-based ice due to a thin ice covering (<30m thick) meant that the ice did not move and protected landforms beneath it. Fur Tor, in the centre of the north plateau (SX 586 830) may well have been protected by cold-based ice and has survived as a ‘more delicate more castellated type’.29 The Belstone range of high-relief tors (SX 61 92) have survived because the narrowness of the ridge would not have allowed a thick bed of erosive ice to accumulate. Snowblow filling open joint spaces between core stones, and, upon freezing to ice, expanding and moving blocks, could explain, as Worth attempted,30 the peculiar arrangement of some core stones.

East Mill Tor (SX 599 897) core stones possibly moved by ice. April 2010

Speculations on South Moor glaciation The lowest elevation of evidence of glacial erosion is Corn Hole in the northwest, at 360m, and is used as a landform indicator of a more extensive glaciation

References 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Croot, D., Griffiths, J.S., Aug 2001 ‘Engineering geological significance of relict periglacial activity in South and East Devon’ Quarterly Journal of Engineering Geology & Hydrogeology Vol 34 No 3 pp269–281. Evans, D.J.A., Harrison, S., Vieli, A., Anderson, E. 2012 ‘The glaciation of Dartmoor; the southern most independent ice cap in the British Isles’ Quarternary Science Review 45 pp31–53. Worth, R.H. 1971 Worth’s Dartmoor David & Charles p25. Harrison, S. 2001 ‘Speculations on the Glaciation of Dartmoor’ Quaternary Newsletter Vol 93pp15–26. Evans 2012 op cit. Pickard, R. 1943 ‘Glaciation on Dartmoor’ Trans Devon Ass. 75 pp25–52. Harrison, S. 2012 ‘The glaciation of Dartmoor’ Dartmoor Society research lecture, Bovey Tracey, Nov 2012. Harrison, Nov 2012, op cit. Benn, D.I., Evans, D.J.A. 1998 Glaciers and Glaciation Arnold.

on Dartmoor. As the South Moor plateau, which has yet to be studied by Evans, drops from 515m asl at Ryder’s Hill (SX 659 691) to about 420m asl, the speculation is that the South Moor, mostly below 480m, could well have hosted an icefield. It has a number of features similar to the North Moor; a large torless central plateau, deepdraining valleys on its fringes, and other smaller landforms that require examination to see if they fit into a glacial landsystem: Outwash fan An extensive boulder fan on the River Erme at Ivybridge (SX 63 56). How much meltwater was generated to create this very large landform, and from where did it originate? These are two questions that point strongly to a glacial melt genesis possibly rather more convincingly than a periglacial groundwater-melt feature. Meltwater channel Close to the River Avon below Dockwell Ridge at Woolholes (SX 583 638) are two short dry valleys cutting through an unnamed tor. The westerly one is deep, narrow and filled with granite blocks for most of its length. Neither has an appreciable basin draining into it, and they also stop short of the river 20m or so below. If a meltwater origin explains their genesis then the Avon Valley would have been choked or filled. This may be a third type of meltwater channel found on Dartmoor. An alternative interpretation could be that it is an abandoned early channel of the River Avon. A hillside terrace occurs on the opposite side of the valley, below Black Tor, and may be a former river terrace. Whatever its cause this feature is unusual,

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

Evans op cit. p33. Harrison Nov 2012, op cit. Evans 2012 op cit. and Harrison, Nov 2012, op cit. Horsham, R. 2012 ‘Periglacial Dartmoor’ Dartmoor Magazine Issue 109. See photo p41. Evans 2012, op cit. p36. Evans 2012 op cit. p37. Benn & Evans op cit. p437. Harrison, S. personal contact. te Punga, M.T. 1956 ‘Altiplanation terraces in Southern England’ Biuletyn Peryglacjalny 4. pp331–338. Evans 2012 op cit. p34. Evans 2012 op cit. pp34, 35. Harrison Nov 2012, op cit. Evans 2012, op cit. Abstract. Linton, D.L. 1955 ‘The Problem of Tors’ Geographical Journal 121 pp470-487. Evans, D.J.A., Harrison, S., Vieli, A., Anderson, E. 2012 ‘Dartmoor’s overlooked glacial legacy’ Geology Today Vol 28, Issue 6 pp224–229, Nov/Dec 2012. Evans 2012, op cit. p37. Ballantyne, C.K. 1994 ‘Scottish Landform Examples 10: the tors of the Cairngorms’ Scottish Geographical Magazine 110 pp54–59.

but not unique. There is a similar feature on the sharp bend of the East Dart River opposite the Winney’s Down Brook tributary. This has not been identified by Evans, and it is not clear whether it was overlooked or dismissed as part of a glacial landsystem. Deep Swincombe (SX 644 717) is a short northward flowing valley that begins suddenly and is similar to, though smaller than, Hollowcombe Bottom and Cowsic Head. Its form seems to fit into the meltwater channel category. Over-deepened valleys are restricted to mainly south-flowing rivers, especially where they become gorge-like. The overdeepening is often only on the east-facing valley sides (see map). Tor distribution No tors are located on its upper plateau surfaces. On its fringe Fox Tor is the most isolated (SX 625 698) unmodified tor. The South Moor plateau, where an icefield could be expected to have formed, has many torless summits, and the spur endings and valley side outcrops are generally low and subdued. Glacial modification could explain this pattern. Erratics Possible localities for easier identification of possible erratics would be Huntingdon Hill and Hickaton Hill (SX 662 669, 671 668) as source areas because of their micro-granite intrusions. Although Dartmoor has many loose surface granite blocks they rarely occur alone, and it is for this reason that the Luckombe Stone may be an erratic. It is a very large and isolated rock at least 4m in length in the headmire of the River Avon (SX 647 697).

Conclusion We have seen that Dartmoor did not escape glaciation and its image as an pre-ice age inherited landscape has been seriously challenged. The notion of a glaciated Dartmoor, however, should not be controversial even though its glacial landsystem is formed of immature landforms in contrast to other glaciated uplands. There is still a lot more to discover and learn about Dartmoor’s glacial landscape, especially the South Moor, and areas where little exploration has been done, such as the Double Dart valley. ■ 27 28 29 30

Evans 2012, op cit. p48. Evans 2012, op cit. p49. Evans 2012 op cit. p40. Worth 1971, op cit. p25.

DARTMOOR 43

his year we are proudly celebrating over 125 years ownership by the same family!

This unique pub has something to offer everyone. All our bars offer a fine range of wines and exceptional real ales from the Westcountry. We sell more Jail Ale brewed by Dartmoor Brewery in Princetown, than anyone else! Our menu is extensive and our Chef takes great pride in using local producers and suppliers as much as possible. Try our Steak & Jail Ale Short crust Pastry pie – Delicious!

2005 01822 852022

1880’s

1950’s

DARTMOOR TOWNS

Yelverton

open for business

dose of Yelverton’ was prescribed for patients by Plymouth doctors at the end of the 19th century. Yelverton was advertised as a health resort for its bracing air on Roborough Down at the foot of southwest Dartmoor and the place to live. It developed rapidly from the opening of the railway station in May 1885, the adjacent area of moorland having previously been crossed by the Plymouth Leat engineered by Sir Francis Drake (1591), the Devonport Leat (1793), the horse-drawn Plymouth and Dartmoor Railroad (1823) and the GWR passing through a tunnel beneath Yelverton designed by Isambard Kingdon Brunel (1859). The Rock Hotel was opened for business in 1862 by William Shillibeer and is run as the Rock Inn today by his descendants, the Langton family, living here for seven generations. One of three bars, the lounge bar, has photographs showing the changes over the years, and the locals frequent the Dartmoor Bar in the evenings. Sister and brother, Sue and Paul, are the proprietors in this truly family business. Several businesses are situated nearby in the Rock complex including Mirrors (one of three hairdressers), a dental practice,

PHOTOGRAPH © WILLIAM D. BOOTH

WORDS PAULINE HAMILTON-LEGGETT PHOTOGRAPHS © P.H-L ARCHIVES

ABOVE The view from RAF Harrowbeer, with St Paul’s Church on the right and Sheepstor in the background LEFT GWR tunnel at Yelverton BELOW Yelverton roundabout still displays an old fingerpost inscribed ‘Yelverton Rock’

PHOTOGRA PH © TIM JE NKINSON

tattoo parlour, foot clinic, beauty parlour, Pilates Studio and two of the most recent arrivals, a florist and bicycle shop. ‘Rockin Bikes’ opened in December 2012. The first shops were in Buckland Terrace at Leg O’Mutton Corner, so called for the curve of the road, formerly the main road from the Big Rock to Horrabridge. One of Yelverton’s three garages is situated here with Indian and Chinese takeaways and restaurants, March Hair salon, The Corner Shop, Wet Felting Company and Beau Boutique. The Paperweight Centre, established here 34 years ago, has now sadly closed, as has the Leg O’Mutton Inn. The aerodrome, named Harrowbeer rather than Yelverton to prevent confusion with the name Yeovilton (in

Somerset, commissioned in 1939), was built in 1942 after the Plymouth blitz. The development caused the road system to be altered, and shops near the roundabout flourished from this time. Built as Moorland Villas, the main parade of shops were terraced houses facing an identical terrace across the village green, but the top storeys were removed as the shops were on the direct flight path from the airfield. Hotels and guesthouses were pulled down, and those remaining have become care homes. On the perimeter of the old aerodrome is Drake Vets, and on the south side is Knightstone Restaurant. Owner Michael Hayes has a comprehensive museum of RAF DARTMOOR 45

DARTMOOR TOWNS Harrowbeer in the garage attached to his restaurant. Pilots practised dinghy-drill for their brave sea search and rescue missions over the English Channel at Denham Bridge on the Tavy and in the swimming pool at the Moorland Links Hotel. Brian and Sonia Meaden bought the hotel in 2011 and have updated every room, renaming it ‘The Moorland Garden Hotel’ (it has no connection with the nearby 18hole golf course, opened in 1911), a splendid venue for weddings and parties. At a distance from the main shopping centre, on the edge of Crapstone, is Yelverton Business Park. More than 20 business units are situated here in a rural setting close to the moor. Chez Vous is a computer company who visit clients in their own homes, travelling widely in West Devon. Pet suppliers Caroline and Andy Furse opened their pet shop in October 2012. Stephen Thrall has been serving the community since 1985 with his Yelverton Carpet Company, and says business is amazing. Yelverton serves the surrounding villages and is a most popular place to live. The disused railroad and the GWR track are now part of the cycle path between Plymouth and North Devon, known as Drake’s Trail in this area. Grantham Piano Services, a family firm, offers a wide range of new and secondhand pianos. Five years ago John and Janette Steuart moved their business from Plymouth to the larger premises in Princetown Road Lynn White, branch manager of local estate agents Mansbridge & Balment, says

The Sustrans Cycle Path from Plymouth to Tavistock runs through the heart of Yelverton

that Yelverton is set in a beautiful location within the Dartmoor National Park, in easy commuting distance of Tavistock and Plymouth. ‘We have the best of both worlds here – not only are we close 46 DARTMOOR

to the hustle and bustle of a busy city but within minutes of the peace and tranquillity that Dartmoor offers and just half an hour from the coast. You can’t get much better than that!’

Leg o’ Mutton Corner 60 years ago

Nigel Hosking owns the petrol station, workshop and hardware store selling almost anything, and the Post Office, due to be rebuilt and upgraded in spring this year. ‘Trade is steady but petrol sales are down in this present climate.’ Nigel has been at Yelverton Garage for 39 years, from mechanic to owner. His daughter runs the Post Office and his son

Ward & Chowen estate agents, a charity shop, a delicatessen (Yelverton Stores), Hamlyn’s Garage, Sonia’s cafe and the most recent hairdresser and beauty clinic, the Cutting Company, make up the other businesses in the row. Hairdresser and co-owner Belinda says she loves the location and it is her clientele that make the business so enjoyable. Car parking outside the shops is free and limited to two hours but is a busy thoroughfare and full most of the day. St Paul’s Anglican Church is close by, one of seven churches in the West Dartmoor Mission Community. The Rock Methodist Church faces across the roundabout to the shops and the Roman Catholic Church is situated along Princetown Road next to the Fire Station. Yelvercare, a charitable voluntary organisation founded by Brian and Anne Medhurst, was awarded The Queen’s Voluntary service honour in 2012. The volunteers work for the benefit of residents in the Yelverton area, following 95 percent response to questionnaires delivered to every household in 1997.

View from the shops showing the Methodist Church and Greenbank Terrace, showing how the shops looked before the war when the top storeys were removed

is employed in the workshop. Next door is Bidders the butchers, where Mr Bidder and his brother first sold their farm meat in 1906. Robert Fitzsimmons, the manager, is proud of the first-rate reputation of the business, delivering produce beyond Cornwood and Tavistock. ‘Beef and lamb are from local farms and pork from the Cornish Farmhouse Bacon Company. We make our own sausages using natural casings and our bacon is dry-cured.’ The Co-operative Group store, where one meets everyone from the area, opened in two of the houses of Moorland Villas in 1921. This clean and friendly superstore – a far cry from when it first opened when sawdust covered the floor – is a thriving business. The Pharmacy not only dispenses medicines but the pharmacist is always on hand to give guidance and advice.

A play park for children was built on land given by Maristow Estate in a corner of the old aerodrome, sustained by the village lottery. A cinema was established from a large legacy and films are shown at an evening cafe cinema, matinée and children’s cinema each month. Two nearby visitor attractions are The Garden House (‘Perhaps the most breathtaking of all gardens’ – Rachel de Thame) and the National Trust property Buckland Abbey, once the home of Sir Francis Drake. And finally, the view of Dartmoor from Yelverton is magnificent. The panorama of tors is from Cox Tor sweeping around to the Dewerstone, all rising above the valleys of the Tavy, Walkham, Meavy and Plym where as a child I watched the steam engine winding its way among the tors from Yelverton to Princetown. ■

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Hair and Beauty A wealth of experience awaits you in our new beauty rooms with Karen,Michelle and Jan

Previously owned by Sir Francis Drake, an ancient Grade II* listed five double bedroom manor house with a courtyard flanked by two large 17th and 19th Century barns situated in the Dartmoor National Park and listed in the Domesday Book 1086.

Cutting Company, The Parade, Yelverton, PL20 6DT

The house is surrounded by gardens and about ten acres of mainly south facing pastureland and about one acre of woodland. Included in the sale is the Lordship of Sampford Spiney and 202 acres of common land.

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mansbridgebalment.co.uk 01822 855055

● RockinBikes is a friendly bicycle shop for both road and mountain bike enthusiasts ● We supply great bikes from Ghost, Merida, Orange, Cinelli and De Rosa ● The ﬁnest clothing from Endura for happy days in the saddle, and the best parts and accessories to keep you rolling

01822 258 022 Rockin Bikes Ltd Unit 2 The Rock Complex Yelverton Devon PL20 6DS www.rockinbikes.co.uk

● Friendly, knowledgeable staff coupled with a superb service IF WE WOULDN’T BE HAPPY RIDING IT, WE WOULDN’T SELL IT

Free estimates, measuring & personal service at extremely competitive prices. Visit our showroom for an inspiring & extensive range of carpets, vinyl’s & Karndean ﬂooring. With over 30 yrs experience we provide expert help, advice, attention and ﬁtting for both domestic and commercial installations.

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wildlife

‘

Nick Bakers DARTMOOR SPRING Nick Baker is a professional ‘amateur naturalist’ who loves all things with a pulse (and quite a few things without!). He lives in Chagford from where he works as a TV broadcaster, author, photographer and wildlife tour guide. PHOTOGRAPHS & ILLUSTRATIONS JOHN WALTERS

If one natural phenomenon really puts a spring in your step at this time of year then surely it has to be the noise produced by our songbirds. Wherever you are, the dawn chorus is now.

wareness of it as the ambient soundtrack to most of our days is almost subconscious; we all notice the change, but few really register. It has been slowly, almost imperceptibly, building up from those very first strident notes of great tits and the rasping of rooks way back in January to its peak around about now. Each chorus tells the story of its place, and a Dartmoor woodland is no exception. Each voice tells us who is nesting here, and with knowledge of the unique requirements of each of the species represented in the orchestra we can glean some idea of the habitats present, and in so doing can build a mental picture, a ‘soundscape’.

Pied flycatcher

So for me the sound signature of this season on Dartmoor has to be some of its specialised upland birds. There are a few notable species that I positively look forward to seeing (and have been since last summer when their voices for the most part fell silent with the end of the breeding season). By the time spring comes around I need to hear their voices again. The upland woodlands are first on my list. Here damp boughs of oak and ash are burdened with epiphytes, countless mosses, lichens, algae and fern. This is where I seek out pied and spotted flycatchers and common redstart. Nothing quite says ‘spring’ for me as purely as entering the muted woods, where every foot falls in softened silence. Yet the gentle repetitive melodic notes of the male pied flycatcher seem to penetrate all. It’s not a loud song by any means, but one that does what it has to: namely carry as far as the next male’s territory and let him – and any females – know that he is on site and open for business. White Wood (below Bench Tor), Dart Valley, in springtime

48 DARTMOOR

This song is always brightest when the male is still single, and soon loses its edge when he becomes distracted by the activities of breeding. Fortunately the oak buds are quite late to unfurl at these altitudes and finding the maker of the music isn’t that hard – you might have to dodge around a bit for a clear view, but it’s worth it. The male in particular is a beautiful monochromatic bird with a large and bright eye. I love to watch them dance and flit from branch to branch, grabbing a gnat or a moth and living up to the family name. As they do so the white markings on tail and wing seem to glow in the muted light and against the sombre greens and greys of the woodland interior. While watching them and revelling in their song it’s fun to think about what this bird has experienced over the last couple of months: flitting around in the forests of tropical western Africa before flying back to join us for summer. Dartmoor’s outreach is quite considerable.

Redstart

The common redstart, another bigeyed bird well adapted for hunting insects in the dingy woodland light, is another summer visitor to listen out for. The song is completely different, comprised of very precise bursts of scratchy notes that seem to babble from deep within. It is well worth investigating any loud ‘seep’ calls

wildlife as these could be the contact and alarm calls in response to your intrusion into a territory. But sit down against a rock or trunk, keep quiet and become part of the landscape, and soon every living thing will get back to business as usual. It is during these quiet still moments that you realise just what we miss out on or walk past on a regular basis. It’s a good time to train your ears; a blind birdwatcher once made me realise we simply do not use this sense to its full advantage. A half-hour birdwatching session with him really opened my ears to what I was missing. He was able to tell me – from his knowledge of the lie of the land – the particular alarm calls of the house martins above and the bullfinch that preceded the latter bursting through the hedge with a sparrowhawk on its tail. So if I’m alone I like to take these moments to sink back into the landscape, shut my eyes and let the sounds and smells envelop me. I try to really listen, to identify every sound nearby: dripping water on leaves, the purr of wings, the subtle contact calls of the birds as well as their songs. Then I work outwards

Ravens

towards the wind beyond the woodland edge, and the cronks and craarks of the ravens dancing on it. Once tuned in you’ll quickly be able to recognise the regular players; and when you get good you might even start to pick up the very subtle nuances of the various calls. The difference between a song and a call is that the former is a big noise, an audio advert designed to be heard over distance, either as a proclamation of a territory or an advert of health and breeding potential. Calls are more subtle, the ‘every day’ way of communicating between birds, usually very quiet and difficult to pinpoint. It was while following a call that sounded a little like the contact calls of a pied flycatcher last summer that I stumbled into what was once a common bird almost everywhere. The spotted flycatcher is no longer easy to see, its population having crashed drastically in recent years. It is also a very quiet bird, more often seen than heard, as it has a very small, high-pitched voice. Its song, even at full tilt, is barely audible unless you are right on top of it. And so to the wood warbler. These nest in most of Dartmoor’s woodlands and will probably reveal themselves if you go looking. The song is unmistakable: it sounds like a coin that has been spun on the table, its tonal gyrations and reels speeding up to a natural crescendo.

Wildlife Sketchbook

Wood warbler

While the woods hold their own particular specialities it is still worth listening out for a few species of the open moor and woodland edge, and the cuckoo is one such bird. It’s a bit of a springtime cliché, but it’s worth remembering that this bird is declining in many parts of its range. Dartmoor is one of the best places in the UK to hear and – due to the open landscape – see these wonderful birds. Try walking up some of the steep-sided river valleys, particularly those lined with gorse, as it is in such areas their favourite host species, the meadow pipit, resides. ■

Cuckoo

John Walters

Common lizards emerge from hibernation during early spring and this is the best time to see these reptiles. On sunny days in March and April they will spend most of their time basking on rocks and low vegetation. They feed on a variety of small creatures including flies, wasps and centipedes. Lizards can shed the end of their tail when caught by a predator. The tail will regrow, but the new one is usually shorter and darker than the original. John Walters is a naturalist based in Buckfastleigh with a passion for the wildlife of the National Park. He is a freelance wildlife artist, photographer, public speaker and graphic designer, and co-author of The Wildlife of Dartmoor. www.johnwalters.co.uk

DARTMOOR 49

LAND OF LEGENDS

Hunted witches and elusive hares WORDS MARY TAVY PHOTOGRAPHS OSSIE PALMER

The Three Hares emblem in stained glass at the Castle Inn, Lydford

Bowerman’s Nose, Hayne Down: a huntsman turned to stone

50 DARTMOOR

rom the North American Indians to Buddha himself, the hare features in folklore and legends all over the world. Their numbers on the moor have diminished but I have watched them bounding across the turf in the spring sunshine on the lower slopes of Cox Tor, easily recognisable by their long, shapely ears. Several stories from Dartmoor tell of witches who had the power to turn themselves into a hare in order to outwit hunters and elude capture. Of these perhaps the most colourful one describes the legendary origins of one of the moor’s spectacular rock stacks. Long ago, there was a time when witches weaved malicious spells by their cottage fires and held their evil rituals in the secret places of the moor. All Dartmoor people lived in fear of them – all that is except Bowerman, the hunter, who professed himself afraid of no one and encouraged those around him to do the same. Endowed with great physical strength he was a generous-hearted, kindly man and loved by all. Except, of course, by the witches who were a little in awe of him and afraid of the pack of fierce hounds who were his constant companions. One evening Bowerman and his hounds chased a hare through a narrow valley, where the witches were in the middle of their evil rites, throwing the coven into confusion. Highly amused, the huntsman and his dogs galloped through the gathering and on into the night, the vengeful shrieks of the old crones echoing in their ears. The witches plotted revenge. One of their number, named Levera, had the power to turn herself into a hare. As Bowerman and his pack rode out one night she used her magic and, becoming a hare, positioned herself where she knew they would pick up her scent, whilst her friends set up an ambush. On reaching the witches’ valley, the hounds found the hare’s scent and the chase was on, to Bowerman’s great delight. Never had he experienced such a hunt – over the rough moorland grass they went, through streams and up the hills, through the valleys and over tors. Near exhaustion, they followed the hare round a rocky prominence and came to an abrupt halt, surrounded by screaming witches. Using their combined powers to cast a spell, the witches turned the huntsman and his pack to stone. And there Bowerman stands to this day, on the east side of the moor,

LAND OF LEGENDS with his hounds all around him. He resembles a man frozen in time, a true ‘granite idol’, gazing forever towards the little town of Chagford. And as for the witches: the local people were so angry at the fate of their friend that they forgot their fear of the witches and drove them away – some say to a warm welcome across the Bristol Channel in Wales. From the pen of Mrs Bray1 who gathered so many local legends and customs we learn of a witch who lived near Tavistock with her grandson. Whenever she needed money she would send him to a huntsman who lived nearby with instructions to tell the latter that he had seen a hare at a particular spot. Each time the huntsman rewarded the boy with a sixpence and gathered his friends for the hunt. Meanwhile the old woman used her powers to turn herself into a hare and led the hunters a merry chase on numerous occasions, but was never caught. Eventually the leader of the hunt became suspicious. He took advice from a clergyman and a judge and, as the boy seemed to come at a regular time, they were gathered, all prepared for the hunt, as soon as the lad came to tell of the sighting of the hare. A neighbour of the witch also agreed to help by sending the huntsmen word of when the witch and her grandson left their home. When the news came the hunting part set off swiftly. The witch (in the form of a hare) and her grandson were taken by surprise and in panic the boy called out ‘Run Granny, run: run for your life!’ This she did, escaping the hunters and, as a hare, entered her cottage by a small hole at the bottom of the door. The huntsmen were unable to break the door down until the judge and the clergyman arrived to bear witness (after all ‘law and church were designed to break through iniquity’) and in an upstairs room they found the witch, bleeding and breathless. She denied she was the hare, but when the huntsman threatened to call up the hounds, she and her grandson begged for mercy. The punishment of a whipping was administered and carried out by the huntsman so, for the time being, the witch escaped a worse fate but was later put on trial for bewitching a young woman and making her ‘spit pins’. This time the witch did not escape the full penalty and ended her days being burnt at the stake. The stories of two other witches – Old Hannah of Dendles Wood and Old Moll of Chagford – will be told at a later date, but fact can be stranger and more interesting than even an entertaining legend and the origins of the Three Hares2 symbol, known in the past as the ‘Tinners’ Rabbits’, is intriguing and elusive. The symbol depicts three hares following each other in a triangle. Designed to appear as though each animal has two ears, only three ears are apparent. A few examples resemble rabbits and this no doubt led to the association with tinners as rabbits were indeed a staple food for them on Dartmoor. In addition, a major cluster of the symbols appear on and around the moor and the tinners’ wealth did much to support the building and adornment

of moorland churches where it is often to be found. The symbol appears in 17 parish churches in Devon, often in the junction of wooden roof bosses. The one pictured resembles The Three rabbits rather than Hares roof boss hares and comes in Tavistock Parish Church from Tavistock Parish Church, but the majority show the longer ears of a hare. Many can be dated to the medieval era, but the delightful working of the symbol in stained glass on the opposite page is modern and comes from the Castle Inn at Lydford. Over the years research has continued by the Three Hares Project, led by Dr Tom Greeves (archaeologist and historian), Sue Andrew (art history researcher) and Chris Chapman (documentary photographer), who have discovered further examples around the world. Dating throughout the medieval period the Three Hares motif has been found in several locations in Britain, France and Germany. Carved in wood, painted on tiles or sculpted in plaster ceilings, in both religious and domestic situations, the symbol appears to have no common link or even a common religion. The earliest motifs can be found painted on the ceilings of Buddhist cave temples in Dunhuang, China. A beautiful example decorates an Iranian brass tray cAD1200, and it has also been found on pottery and glassware from Islamic countries. Much more information is given in Tom’s articles and the website listed below. It is an intriguing subject and more is still waiting to be discovered. It is a true Dartmoor mystery as in no other known place are so many examples of the symbol to be found – does its origin lie on the moor and if not, how did it come here from the distant countries where earlier examples have been found? It is sometimes found close to an image of the Green Man so could it form an ancient, symbolic link between religions, in the Western world between pagan and Christian beliefs? Ongoing research may yet find the truth behind this intriguing emblem but maybe this is one Dartmoor secret that will never be revealed. ■

1 Mrs Anna Eliza Bray On the Borders of the Tamar and The Tavy Vol 2 p277 2 Information and further reading: Dartmoor Magazine No 25 pp4–6 and No 61 pp8–10; and www. chrischapmanphotography.co.uk – Three Hares Project Thanks to the Castle Inn at Lydford for their help and permission to take the photograph.

DARTMOOR 51

Arts

DartmoorARTS

What’s on – with Susanne Haines

CCF Dartmoor WP ad 110213 11/02/2013 12:44 Page 1

Local celeb backs 10th Tavistock Festival Local historian and well-known BBC presenter Adam Hart-Davis is the new President of the Tavistock Music and Arts Festival. The showcase, which takes place in various locations around Tavistock town centre, brings a wide range of arts, dance, film and music acts to this historic West Devon town. Chairman Christopher Kirwin said: ‘We have a lot in store for 2013 to ensure the acts cater for all age ranges and musical tastes. Alongside the annual heritage walks, the Festival will host a jazz supper, creative writing workshops and roof-raising performances from the ever-popular Mad Dog Mcrea. Our line-up is growing every day so we know that this 10th anniversary Festival is on track to being a great success.’ The Festival will run from 19 April to 6 May, and tickets are available now. To book, or for information, contact The Wharf Box Office, tel: (01822) 611166 or email: enquiries@tavistockwharf.com. Bank Square Arts Market, Tavistock Saturday 4 May from 9am to 4pm. The outdoor artists’ market on Bedford Square is now an established event at the Tavistock Music and Arts Festival. It has become a vibrant annual selling and commissioning showcase for artists in West Devon and beyond.

The Contemporary

CraftFestival C E L E B R AT I N G 1 0 E X C E L L E N T Y E A R S !

7- 9 JUNE 2013 Mill Marsh Park, Bovey Tracey, Devon

In association with the Devon Guild of Craftsmen

The 10th anniversary of this major event will be held from Friday 7 to Sunday 9 June in Mill Marsh Park, beside the River Bovey. The Festival features work from nearly 200 top UK designer makers, a children’s craft tent, workshops, demonstrations and master classes, plus live music and delicious, locally sourced food. As well as celebrating 10 years of the Festival, there will be 10 demonstrators: including glass blowing, wire sculpture, blacksmithing, surfboard making, ceramics, knitting, stone carving, spoon carving, furniture making and paper sculpture. Other new features include HotHouse, representing a nationally selected group of the finest young graduates. Tickets in advance are available from www. craftsatboveytracey.co.uk.

Katie Almond

Artists of the Tamar Valley celebrate 10 years since the formation of the group, Drawn to the 3 Days – buy direct from 165 of the UK’s finest designer makers The theme of the workshops demonstrations children’s craftValley. tent masterclasses live music events picks up the name www.craftsatboveytracey.co.uk 01626 830612 craftfair@craftsatboveytracey.co.uk of the group, exploring the word ‘drawn’ in all its senses. Collaborations with artists, other organisations and the general public are planned to coordinate a number of events and exhibitions, as well as their regular annual show and open studios. Events include: Bovey Tracey Town Council

Danny Holmes-Adams, Small World, oil on canvas

Green Hill Gallery, Moretonhampstead Local Open Art Show – last day is Saturday 9 March, the day of Moretonhampstead’s Festival of Food, Drink and the Arts (see In the News). From Saturday 16 to Thursday 21 March, an exhibition of work by Dartmoor art group Canzart: Personal Perspectives. From March 29 to May 1 a solo show of landscape paintings by Danny Holmes-Adams, who was first shown as an emerging artist in the gallery’s New Inhabitants exhibition last year. Open Tuesday to Saturday. Visit: www.greenhillarts.com.

52 DARTMOOR

l Drawn

to the Valley members joining Cornwall Open Studios from 25 May to 2 June.

l The

Annual Summer Show in Tavistock from 5 to 11 August.

l The

Garden House Project – work made during days spent drawing in the garden from March to August will be selected for an exhibition at The Garden House from 19 August to 22 September (see also pages 65–66).

l Open

Studios from 31 August to 8 September (including a Plymouth Art Trail). For information visit www.drawntothevalley.co.uk.

Arts

An exhibition of watercolours at Helpful Holidays, Mill Street, Chagford, at Easter from Wednesday 27 March to Saturday 30 March; 11am to 4pm each day. Visit www.helpfulholidays.com. John Christian has been painting Dartmoor for some 30 years and is still tutoring from his studio close to Cosdon Beacon. He has a passionate love of the Dartmoor country and paints and sketches it in all its moods and seasons in a fast, free style, working preferably on the spot in ‘pure watercolour’. The pictures illustrate his love of the moors and valleys, rivers and woods, as well as some recent paintings from Scotland and further afield.

Devon Guild of Craftsmen, Bovey Tracey Ten out of Ten celebrates the 10th anniversary of The Contemporary Craft Festival (held in Bovey in June: see opposite), and runs from Saturday 4 May to Sunday 16 June. In the Riverside Gallery until Sunday 24 March, Anita Reynolds: Outline South West – an exhibition of work by the printmaker, made on the first section of her walk around the South West Coast Path; on Saturday 16 March from 11am to 4pm, Meet the Maker (no booking required). Riverside Gallery from Friday 19 April to Sunday 26 May, Jill Smallcombe and Jackie Abey: A Library of Earthly Delights – an exhibition exploring their collaborative work in cob and what has inspired them. Visit: www.crafts.org.uk.

PHOTOGRAPH NICK PHILBEDGE

John Christian: Dartmoor and Further Afield

Anita Reynolds, Gorse, Thrift and Curzyway, print

Anita Reynolds drawing at Trevallas

Leewood, Walkham Valley – rural classroom project

John Christian, Gateway to the Moor, watercolour

Tamar Print Workshop Printmaker and painter Mary Gillett has been running the Tamar Print Workshop for nearly 20 years. The studio, in a beautiful location on the edge of Dartmoor, is near Tavistock, and offers weekly classes and two-day and five-day workshops. Programme includes: working with colour – etching and collagraph 8, 9 and 10 March; general (to suit own requirements) 23 and 24 March; beginners 11 and 12 May; collagraph and carborundum 18 and 19 May. For information contact mary@gulwork. wanadoo.co.uk, phone 07817 165856, or visit www.marygillett.co.uk. An exhibition of work by members of Mary’s workshop, Fresh off the Press, can be seen until 14 March at The Limekiln Gallery, Calstock.

Leewood is a 30-acre smallholding of ancient broadleaved woodland and pasture near Yelverton in the Walkham Valley, which has recently been transformed into a creative and educational centre and off-grid comfortable camping retreat by artist and sculptor Nick Viney. ‘In planning the project, the words tranquillity, sustainability, and creativity kept cropping up,’ says Nick. ‘My work as an artist tries to reconnect people to the landscape and I see Leewood as an extension of this.’ Sustainability and creativity are high on the agenda at Leewood. The fleece from the flock of Wensleydale sheep is used in the textile workshops led by Jane Deane, a well-known local textile practitioner, who also oversees the dye garden. A range of workshops for all abilities includes green woodworking, painting, drawing, spinning and natural dyeing. The land has been in Nick’s family for almost 50 years. Now visitors to Leewood have the opportunity to experience its tranquillity by ‘glamping’. It provides a beautiful riverside event venue with a rural classroom that can benefit schools, colleges, the local community and visitors to Dartmoor. For further information about the project, visit www.leewood.co.uk.

John Luff, Low rocker (Ten out of Ten)

Dartmoor Arts Project Summer School Sunday 28 July to Saturday 3 August Based in Drewsteignton, Dartmoor Arts Project is an artist-led organisation founded in 2006. It presents a wide range of courses (including printmaking, storytelling, drawing, spatial structures, and ceramics for artists) taught by leading professional artists. It also presents a rich and varied programme of talks by contemporary artists, curators and writers as well as music, performance and film screenings. Dartmoor Arts Project supports young and emerging artists and those with limited finances. A limited number of bursaries are available for 2013. Visit www.dartmoorarts.com.

Tree house constructed by students on the spatial structures course in 2012

DARTMOOR 53

ARCHAEOLOGY

The hunt for North Hall Manor Andy Crabb, DNPA

Widecombe-in-the-Moor

espite the persistent damp and drizzle over the summer of 2012 a dedicated and enthusiastic team of volunteers braved the mud and puddles to join archaeologists in the search for evidence of the lost medieval manor house of North Hall. Every find was greeted as a triumph, and every stone unearthed the cause of great speculation. North Hall was the manor of Widecombe-in-the-Moor and one of seven medieval manors located within the parish. The origins of the manor house are unclear, but it was thought to have been abandoned in the 17th century and over time the exact location of the site has faded as memories grew hazy. The excavation was the culmination of years of painstaking research undertaken by Widecombe resident Peter Rennells. Peter was also a founder member of the highly active local History Group who have assisted and encouraged his work. Peter originally became intrigued by an aerial photograph of a crop mark and an 1886 map showing a cross titled ‘site of North Hall’. This led to over 14 years of excellent research from which Peter drew up 54 DARTMOOR

a fascinating historical narrative for North Hall, but the whereabouts of the manor remained a mystery. Peter’s work revealed two likely sites, both situated to the north of the village in what is now farmland. The northern site, identified from a crop mark that appears on a 1946 aerial photograph, shows a large irregularshaped enclosure containing what appears to be a series of overlapping rectangular features. Could this be the site of an early settlement? Furthermore, the name of the field in which this crop mark is situated is ‘Great North Hall Moor’. The other location is the site marked on the 1886 map, now beside the modern buildings of Glebe Farm. Here a distinct mound is present, surrounded by well-defined water channels. Fieldwork carried out by archaeologist Robert Waterhouse identified a possible building on top of the mound and determined that the water channels had been deliberately dug to form a moat around the site. Also a holly-lined lane linking the site to the parish church was suggested to be an ‘allée d’honneur’ which would have provided a degree of privacy for the inhabitants of the manor as they walked to and from the church.

PHOTOGRAPHS © DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY

In 2010 the farmland containing the sites changed hands and the new owners, local farmers Margaret Rogers and Michael Lamb, were keen to understand the history of the site and help unravel the mystery. Under a new environment stewardship scheme with Natural England, funding was provided for a geophysical survey. The results hinted that a small building did survive on top of the mound. Could this be the remains of North Hall? Results from the northern field confirmed the presence of a curving linear feature that was interpreted as the possible enclosure showing as the crop mark. There was now only one option left to confirm the purpose of these tantalising features so it was decided to carry out a small-scale excavation, much to the delight of Peter who said, ‘After 14 years of research we never thought a dig would eventually take place!’ Funding generously provided by the site owners and the Dartmoor National Park Authority’s Sustainable Development Fund paid for a week of excavation. Two professional archaeologists from Oakford Archaeology led a team of over 50 willing volunteers drawn from the local community and the Widecombe History Group. Two trenches were

ARCHAEOLOGY

dug to investigate the building on the mound and the possible enclosure. The terrible summer weather meant that the trench in Great North Moor field became waterlogged and was abandoned on the first day! Excavation therefore concentrated solely on the building at the moated site. Trenches were extended and new ones sunk to investigate the extent of the building and the moat and its bank. Findings were scant, but indicate that the building was extensively demolished after it was abandoned. The foundation course of a substantial wall 1.5m wide and made of granite blocks was found and indicates that a large building was present. It is impossible to say if this wall formed part of the manor house or was an ancillary building such as a barn or stable. Most of the site was covered by large spreads of rubble that contained mortar, roofing slate and occasional architectural fragments. No evidence for any floors survived. A post pit was found beneath the rubble, which hints that an earlier structure was once present. Evidence for a stone revetment wall that lined the inside face of the moat was found, and coring revealed that the moat contained over 2.5m of silt deposits. A beam slot that held

a wooden revetment was unearthed behind the moat bank. Underneath the bank an earlier sequence of bank and ditch was identified, indicating an older earthwork. Over 15 pieces of Medieval ‘biscuit ware’ pottery from Totnes were recovered. Of great interest was a small piece of high-status 15th-century pottery from Spain, suggesting the site was once home to wealthy and well-connected people. The site appears to have been abandoned in the early post Medieval period and was soon extensively plundered for building stone. It is possible that the high-quality building stone was taken away for the reconstruction of St Pancras Church tower which collapsed in dramatic circumstances following a storm in 1638. However, a 19th-century engraving does show the current church tower with buildings in the vicinity of North Hall still standing. The stone from the manor site is likely to have been ‘recycled’ into many Widecombe buildings. However any surviving foundations of North Hall were destroyed when Glebe Farm was constructed in the 1930s. The North Hall excavation was a fantastic example of community archaeology and local historical research. Many local people enjoyed

partaking in archaeology for the first time – along with the wonderful Widecombe Cider, homemade sushi and cakes provided at break times! Marc Steinmetzer of Oakford Archaeology sums up the project nicely: ‘North Hall has been the best community dig I’ve worked on because everyone, from the landowners, the local History Group to the volunteers came together and created a thoroughly lovely and memorable experience. North Hall shows what can be achieved by local communities with a little bit of help and support.’ A well-attended open day event was also held to celebrate the excavation. But by no means is all resolved. As Peter says, ‘the final conundrum is the mystery of the crop mark shown in the 1946 aerial’ – so the archaeologists may yet return. ■ 1 Children from Widecombe Primary School lending a hand 2 A piece of 15th-century Spanish lustre ware 3 Peter Rennells on site 4 Shards of medieval pottery 5 Volunteers at work 6 Trench 1 under excavation

DARTMOOR 55

OUT AND ABOUT

Dartmoor Curiosities

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SIMON DELL

Simon Dell visits some of the moor’s lesser-known and curious features

Eylesbarrow Cobra Head

South Hessary Cobra Head

The ‘Cobra Heads’ of Dartmoor

ride the boundary in a ‘Perambulation’ to mark the limits. It is these limits which now define the lands owned by the Duke of Cornwall as the Forest of Dartmoor. In his book Dave Brewer refers to a document of 1867 which stated: ‘From Deadlake Foot in a straight line to the summit of Great Mis Tor to be marked by an iron cross; thence in a straight line to North Hessary Tor (iron cross); thence similarly to South Hessary Tor (iron cross); thence similarly to Nun’s Cross; thence similarly to Eylesborough (iron cross)’. So it seems that there were four of these ‘Cobra’ markers on the line of the boundary, and only the one at Eylesbarrow remains today. The 1867 document suggests perhaps that the Cobra Heads might have been installed at that time as boundaries supporting older markers around the moors. Other marker stones would have been granite stones and even inscribed rocks on the route of that ancient Perambulation. Unfortunately about five or six years ago some mindless individual broke the South Hessary one just after I photographed it in situ while leading a guided walk to see it. Fortunately it was found and taken into the care of the DNPA, who are in the process of deciding upon what to do with it. I visited the spot recently but it is still missing. The ‘Cobra’ at Eylesbarrow has received a bit of TLC and some repairs over the years, so hopefully it will last for a few more centuries! If your spring visit to the Cobra Head inspires you to walk the whole of the Perambulation then the official website of the Long Distance Walkers Association (www.ldwa.org.uk) gives full details. ■

hen is a cobra not a snake?’ you might well ask – and the answer is simply ‘When it is on Dartmoor!’ Curious indeed. Although this little curiosity has been well documented before, especially by the late Dave Brewer in his excellent publications about the boundary markers of Dartmoor, I thought it might be rather nice to include them in the spring edition to maybe encourage a few folk to enjoy a stroll on a safe and accessible route along the track from Princetown south past South Hessary and on to Nun’s Cross then up to Eylesbarrow. This is a route which follows a well-worn path starting between the Plume of Feathers and the former Railway Inn in Princetown Square. The path follows the ancient route of the Boundary of the Forest of Dartmoor – more commonly known as the Perambulation (see Issue 105, winter 2011). So what exactly are the ‘Cobra Heads’? On Dartmoor there are many boundary markers of all types, and these cobras are simply iron boundary markers. There were at one time four, and during my time of walking on the moors I have known of two of them and their photographs are included on this page: one formerly at South Hessary Tor, and another at Eylesbarrow at the top of the hill by two cairns and a granite boundary post. These particular markers were made of iron, beaten flat by the blacksmith and stamped ‘FB’, signifying the Forest Bounds. These examples were part of a much larger ring of boundary markers (not all Cobra Heads) which encircles the ancient boundary of the Forest of Dartmoor and was first referred to in the 1240 Perambulation. It was in that year that King Henry III ordered that the lands of his brother (Prince Richard of Cornwall) should be identified and confirmed by having the Sheriff of Devonshire and 12 Knights

56 DARTMOOR

PS On a clear winter’s day it is possible – with a good pair of binoculars – to see the two dishes at Goonhilly over 80 miles away on The Lizard in Cornwall when standing by the Eylesbarrow Cobra!

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moor food

Green Shoots at Buckland Abbey Lori M. Reich visits two grow-your-own schemes in the Tavy Valley

rowing your own food can bring many rewards: fresh, tasty vegetables, free-range meat nurtured with the animal’s welfare always in mind, and the pleasure of eating in harmony with the seasons. Additionally there are the health benefits of physical labour and exercise. All this while saving you money. But timing is everything. As every grower remembers the weather over much of 2012 was uncharacteristically wet and cold. As a result the recently formed Buckland Food Growers suffered a poor vegetable and no apple harvest, and had very little honey along with the loss of some hives. Then to top it all, they lost most of their chickens to a fox or mink. Even a few of Buckland’s allotmenteers, discouraged

58 DARTMOOR

by hard work and slim rewards, gave up completely. Another year like last year and both growing communities at Buckland Abbey will be banging Drake’s Drum for help. Despite this, the spirit of the Armada still lingers. Even in the depths of winter there were red cabbages, spinach and leeks flourishing on the allotments. Buckland’s growers are facing the new growing season full of plans and renewed optimism. The National Trust at Buckland Abbey (NT), home to Sir Francis and guardians of his famous drum, is landlord to two distinctively different growing organisations. Sally Whitfield, head gardener at Buckland Abbey, says ‘Buckland Food Growers first asked us for a piece of ground they could use. Later Buckland Monachorum Parish Council also asked for help as the only land available for their allotment society was contaminated with arsenic. With NT headquarters’ blessing and much negotiation both groups now rent their share of a beautiful stonewalled field.’ Despite sharing the same field the two groups are very distinctive. Beth Scott, secretary of the fetchingly named Buckland Monachorum Parish Garden Allotments Association (simplified here as the Allotment group), explained, ‘We have traditional, individual allotments. We are a very sociable group and

welcome new members, although each person works their own plot, growing vegetables and fruit for home consumption. Often surplus fruit and veg are shared with neighbours so the whole community benefits. A committee oversees the management of the site with some communal composting, grass cutting and seed sharing. ‘Each allotment is 8 by 20 metres, but can be divided in half for sharing. Some enthusiastic people work two allotments. Looking around today you wouldn’t know that we started with a nettle- and dock-ridden field two years ago and that just five enthusiastic people with almost no funds have managed to establish a flourishing association with 50 productive plots and around 44 members.’ Says Beth, ‘We have been known to bring our breakfast with us in the early morning, sitting on our bench in the sun looking over the beautiful Tavy Valley. Some people bring elderly parents or their kids with them. It can be nice at the end of the day to sit with a bottle of wine, too. ‘There are some rules imposed on us by the National Trust. For instance we can have sheds, but they must all be the same. They are tiny! With your tools inside, you can just about sit on a bucket if it is raining. They are also to be painted a regulation green.’ Sally reiterated, ‘The allotments are meant for growing food. There

moor food

Apple pressing in 2011

are no trees, no animals or even large fruit cages allowed. But the group is well set up, well run and steaming ahead. It is a pleasure for us at the National Trust to see the satisfaction they get out of growing.’ Visitors looking over the wall can see a wellmanaged site free of plastic bottles, old tyres, carpets or flashing CDs. The second group, Buckland Food Growers (BFG for short) are more community oriented. Around 40 households have come together to share the joys, efforts and risks of learning to grow their own food, including meat. With this group all the work is shared, usually on a rota, and so is the produce. Chairman of BFG, Lucy Wood, says ‘We are an evolving group with social benefits as well as food production at its heart. None of us are experts so we are all learning

as we go. Our members are very committed, active in our sub-groups and we work well together. ‘We have five sub-groups: bees, cider, pigs, chickens and fruit. You join the BFG as a shareholder, then pay subscriptions to and join the work rotas of any of the sub-groups according to your interest. The work of nurturing, feeding, growing are all shared tasks, but so is any food produced.’ Susie Zaleski, coordinator of the chicken sub-group, explained, ‘We started with 18 chickens and 12 members. The hens were all different breeds; bantams, Arracunas, Plymouth Rock crosses, and one cockerel. The members, all women, are equally mixed of different ages and different walks of life. About the only thing we have in common is a love of chickens. It is great at our meetings to talk with women we

might not have met any other way. ‘Caring for the hens is done by rota so each one of us feeds and waters the hens about once a fortnight. On your day you collect and keep the eggs as your payment. Those of us who couldn’t use all our eggs shared them with family or neighbours so the wider community benefited too. ‘The weekly cleaning rota is done in couples. I managed to arrange that rota with different partners each time, thus getting to know each other even better through working. We also made lemon curd as a group with our surplus eggs, intending to sell it. The flavour of homemade lemon curd is amazing, and the work bound the group together even more. ‘When the mink or fox took our free-range chickens this last autumn it was disheartening. Some of us wanted to give up at that point. But we have talked it through, one to one, and as a group. Together we are finding new strengths and a voice. This tragedy made us stronger collectively. ‘Come springtime we will be getting new hens again. Before then we have a few decisions to make about their management, particularly fencing. My kids are already looking forward to having bantam eggs in their lunchboxes again.’ The other sub-groups have similar stories: the bees, mostly due to the dismal weather last year, struggled to make any honey. DARTMOOR 59

moor food The cider sub-group, custodians of the abbey’s historical orchard, in common with other apple growers, didn’t have enough apples to harvest this past year. Contrast this with 2011 when they pressed three tons of apples for apple juice and cider. The juice was sold whilst the cider was strictly for home consumption-- and the group’s cider competition. The pig sub-group has filled a few freezers with free-range pork this year. Two sets of weaners were fattened, sent off to a local abattoir and the resulting succulent meat served to happy families. Excess meat was sold to BFG shareholders and others. The veg subgroup, like many growers last year, struggled with the dismal weather. Mostly they learned how difficult and time consuming it is to grow vegetables. They plan to focus on fruit, particularly strawberries and rhubarb later this spring. Despite these trials, both groups are looking forward to a more productive 2013 season. The Allotment group is expanding membership to neighbouring parishes, and hope to put in a small all-weather parking area. BFG is working with students from the University of Plymouth, completing a new field design with seating and shelter. The beekeepers are planning bee-friendly plantings, and there may be sheep under the cider trees to keep the grass down. With all this optimism at least Drake’s Drum won’t be sounding in the near future. ■ PHOTOGRAPHS SUE VICCARS, BETH SCOTT, SALLY WHITFIELD, LORI M. REICH

Buckland Abbey Yelverton, Devon PL20 6EY www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ buckland-abbey Tel: (01822) 853607 Buckland Monachorum Parish Allotment Gardens Association Chair: Marilyn Allen Tel: (01822) 853958 Secretary: Beth Scott Tel: (01822) 853033 Buckland Food Growers Ltd Chair: Lucy Wood www.bucklandfoodgrowers.co.uk Tel: (01822) 854332, email: lucyjwood@googlemail.com

60 DARTMOOR

Breakfast Cup

Serves 1 For a quick but substantial breakfast on the go, try this microwave magic. As all microwaves are different, egg sizes and teacups vary, you may need to adjust the timings to suit your own situation. • Completely as possible line the bottom and sides of a microwaveable teacup or small bowl with a single rasher of bacon (streaky, or back) • Carefully break into it a fresh egg, yolk pricked with the tip of a knife (so it won’t explode) • Microwave the cup on high for 1min. Allow to rest for one 1min, then check for ‘doneness’. Zap it again in 15-second bursts if necessary.

450–500g rhubarb, cut into 1cm long pieces • Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C/400°F/ Gas mark 6 for 15mins, then reduce the heat to 180°C/350°F/Gas mark 4 for 25mins. • Test for a set by putting a thin knife into the pie about 2cm from the centre; it should come out clean. The filling will continue to set as it cools. • Cool completely before making the meringue topping. This is a softer, less sweet variation of those crunchy dry meringues used as Pavlovas. • Whip until stiff but not dry (the egg white should hold a peak when you lift the beaters, but the tip should then lean over slightly) in a large bowl 3 egg whites • Add and beat in 1tbsp at a time 6tbsp caster sugar • Spread on the cooled pie, ensuring that you completely cover the top all around the crust. • Bake at 180°C/350°F/ Gas mark 4 for 5mins or until very lightly browned on top. Remove from the oven and cool.

Veggie Breakfast Cup

Substitute a medium-large fresh tomato for the bacon. Cut off the top, then remove and discard the seeds and any loose flesh from the centre. Place this in your teacup and break the egg into it. You may find you need up to an extra minute for the egg to cook due to the thickness of the tomato.

Variations

• For full English, use both the tomato and bacon with a few extra seconds of microwave time. Add a piece of toast and baked beans for a complete meal. • Try adding some grated cheese while the egg is still warm, or a dash of hot sauce if you like it spicy. • A ring of thinly sliced pepperoni or ham could be used instead of the bacon.

Rhubarb Custard Meringue Pie

Serves 6–8 For those really special occasions, this makes a terrific complete dessert: rhubarb, custard and creamy meringue all in one. If necessary you can bake the pie the day before, but it is best to make the soft meringue topping on the same day as you serve it. This is one of those delightful dishes where you separate the eggs, using yolks in one part of the recipe, and the whites in another. • Line a medium pie dish with shortcrust pastry • Beat together 75g plain flour 250g sugar 3 egg yolks 3tbsp milk pinch of grated nutmeg or powdered ginger, optional • Add and stir in

Rhubarb Sausage Rolls

Makes 25–30 rolls A surprising sweet version of the standard party fare. Beth Scott, following her mother’s example, makes these to great acclaim. • Divide into 3 or 4 equal parts 450g puff pastry (homemade or shop bought) • Roll one part into a long thin strip (slightly longer than your stick of rhubarb and three times as wide). Lay a thick stick of rhubarb, trimmed and cleaned on the pastry. Sprinkle heavily with sugar and dust with powdered ginger. • Dampen one long edge of the pastry with an egg wash made of 1 egg, beaten with a splash of milk • Turn the top of the pastry over the rhubarb and seal tightly along the egg wash line. Flip the roll over so the seam is on the bottom. • With a sharp knife cut the long roll into 3–5cm pieces and place on a baking tray, well spaced. Repeat with the remaining pastry and rhubarb. Brush each of the rolls with egg wash. • Bake in a preheated oven at 400°C/200°F/ Gas mark 6 for 20mins or so. Remove from the trays to cool. • Make a glacé icing by stirring together 100g icing sugar 1–2tsp water • Drizzle over the tops of the rolls once cooled. Serve.

Eat, Walk, Sleep Dartmoor Open Monday-Thursday 11am - 4pm 6pm til close Open all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday

A country inn in the middle of Dartmoor, with 10 bedrooms (all en-suite or private bathroom). Bed and Breakfast. Stables and grazing also available. A Haven for walkers, riders, fishermen or anyone just looking to enjoy the natural beauty of Dartmoor. Choose the perfect spot inside or out to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal fare, 3-course and light lunches, Sunday roast, delicious dinners, crumbly, freshly cooked scones for Devon Cream Tea

DARTMOOR MAG AD 128 X

01822 890403 www.princehall.co.uk 180 1/2/13 17:08 Page 1

We specialise in homemade foods using local produce wherever possible. With the emphasis on Devon beers and cider, you have the opportunity to quench your thirst after the efforts of the day with a drink at the bar or relaxing on the Chesterfields in the lounge area, complete with a log fire for Winter evenings. Muddy paws, hooves and boots welcome. Hexworthy Near Princetown Devon PL20 6SD Telephone 01364 631211 Fax 01364 631515 Email info@theforestinn.co.uk

Honest Local Food at a Fair Price Now well established, Ashburton’s premiere, undercover, local produce market goes from strength to strength ... an ‘Aladdin’s cave’ of goodies, our product range is expanding all the time. Come along and meet the people who rear it, cook it and sell it.

Tuckers Yard, Chuley Road, Ashburton, TQ13 7DG

Here for you Tuesday to Saturday 9.30am - 5.00pm

P R O B A B LY T H E B E S T P R O D U C E M A R K E T I N D E V O N !

Badgers Holt at Dartmeet, Princetown, Devon PL20 6SG

THE MOST FAMOUS TEAROOMS ON THE MOOR

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Badger’s Holt, a former ﬁshing lodge, provides an idyllic Dartmoor setting for morning coffee, hot and cold snacks, lunch, three course meal or just a relaxing drink by the river. The perfect venue for your wedding, ofﬁce party or Christmas function. A day on the moor is not complete without a Badger’s Holt Traditional Cream Tea (the same secret recipe for over 50 years) Open 10am til 6pm seven days a week, March ‘til January t '6--: -*$&/4&% t 46/%": -6/$)&4 t (*'5 4)01 t '6-- '"$*-*5*&4 '03 5)& %*4"#-&% t $)*-%3&/ 8&-$0.& For bookings and further details, telephone 01364 631213

Plume of Feathers Inn

The

Carpenters Arms

A delightful traditional country pub - located a few minutes from Haytor in the lovely Dartmoor Village of Ilsington. Home cooked menu using local produce and suppliers where possible, and a good range of well kept Real Ales, Beers, Cider and Fine Wines.

MONDAY TO FRIDAY LUNCH TIME SPECIAL ! Two main courses for £10.00 (selected menu) Two puddings £5.00

The Plume of Feathers is situated at Princetown in the heart of picturesque Dartmoor and offers a warm welcome to all visitors.

e are a traditional historical Inn retaining many of the original features such as slate ﬂoors, wooden beams and granite walls and are ideally situated for walkers, hikers, geocaching and local attractions like Dartmoor Prison Museum and Dartmoor Brewery. We have an enviable reputation for serving traditional home cooked dishes at affordable prices using the freshest, locally sourced produce. The Plume of Feathers is the perfect place from which to explore the beauty of Dartmoor and the surrounding areas. We offer fabulous accommodation, b&b, bunkhouse and campsite, to suit all from relaxing weekend breaks to larger groups and parties.

TRADITIONAL HOME COOKED SUNDAY ROAST Main Course £8.50 (£10.00 including pudding) Child portion and vegetarian option available

Open all day on Saturday and Sunday from 12.00 noon, Monday to Friday 12.00 noon until 3.00 and 6.00 until 11.00 (10.00 on Sunday)Food served daily from 12.00 until 2.00 and 6.00 until 9.00 (8.00 Sunday) Families, Dogs, Horses, Muddy Boots and wet coats are all welcome!

The Carpenters Arms, Ilsington, Near Haytor, Devon, TQ13 9RG 01364 661629 www.carpentersilsington.co.uk

Plymouth Hill, Princetown, Yelverton, Devon PL20 6QQ Tel : 01822 890240 www.theplumeoffeathersdartmoor.co.uk contact@theplumeoffeathersdartmoor.co.uk

WALK AND EAT

The River Bovey and Hisley Wood WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS SUE VICCARS

Lustleigh bluebells and spring flowers – and refreshment at The Cleave Wreyland is land by the Wrey, a little stream in Devonshire. The Wrey flows into the Bovey, and the Bovey into the Teign, and the Teign flows into the sea at Teignmouth. The land is on the east side of the Wrey, just opposite the village of Lustleigh. It forms a manor, and gives its name to a hamlet of six houses, of which this is one. This short walk visits much of the best that the immediate area has to offer, enjoying stunning views all along the route, and a chance to marvel at the Bovey Valley bluebells.

Start/finish St John the Baptist Church, Lustleigh SX 785 812 Distance 4 miles (6.4km) Time 2 hours Terrain Woodland paths, good underfoot in general; steep climb to Higher Hisley Parking Laneside in Lustleigh Toilets Lustleigh (by the Orchard) Dogs Under control at all times; on leads in East Dartmoor National Nature Reserve (Bovey Valley) Map OS Explorer OL28 (1:25,000)

START

t r

1With your back to the lych gate turn right; in front of The Dairy turn left downhill. Cross the leat and take the first turn to the left (Mill Lane) which follows the millstream: the rushing waters of the Wray Brook can be heard across the meadow. This quiet narrow lane is flanked with wildflowers in late spring: : bluebells, stitchwort, red campion, buttercups. Pass Lustleigh Mills and cottages opposite, then climb past the cemetery. Pass a footpath on the left; a few metres later turn right on a narrow hedged bridleway, ascending to meet a lane opposite a large white house (Rudge). Turn left, uphill, to reach a crossroads of lanes/tracks at Rudge Cross.

There is a certain timelessness about the idyllically pretty village of Lustleigh and in the adjacent hamlet of Wreyland, which is almost jealously guarded by those living in the village; and there is no escaping the fact that the place, nestling in the sheltered Wray Valley on the east side of the moor, is almost unbelievably picturesque. The third volume of Cecil Torr’s famous Small Talk at Wreyland was published in 1923, while Torr was living at Yonder Wreyland in the beautiful hamlet of thatched houses passed on the return part of this route. And when visiting Wreyland one realises that little has changed since he penned his Preface:



2Follow the track (bridleway) ahead uphill, signed to Hisley Bridge. Reach the gate to Higher Hisley, and follow the bridlepath left to bypass the house. Pass through a gate, turn right, then left past barns and stables and through a five-bar gate onto a woodland path. Immediately enjoy glorious views right across Lustleigh Cleave and towards Trendlebere Down; look out for herb Robert, pennywort, bluebells, hedge mustard and red campion. Pass into Woodland Trust land, with wonderful views right to Hunters Tor, with Easdon and the hamlet at Water to its left. The path drops steadily downhill through woodland before emerging into a cleared area with fabulous views across Trendlebere to Black Hill, and Yarner Wood NNR. Descend to a path junction above the River Bovey. DARTMOOR 63

WALK and eat 3Turn right; at the next junction turn sharp left to find the ford and Hisley Bridge. On meeting the old packhorse bridge turn left to soon pass into the East Dartmoor NNR (internationally important upland oak woodlands) and continue through beautiful bluebell-filled woodland and meadows. Note that the path immediately by the river is less lovely than those that weave their way through the bluebell meadows slightly ‘inland’ from the riverbank. Pass through a gate into riverside fields, and through another onto a lane. 4Turn right (left uphill, then first right, for a quicker return to the village) to reach a T-junction opposite Ivy Cottage; turn left to cross the Wray Brook on its way to join the Bovey, and pass under the old railway line. The lane climbs steeply uphill; stay with it as it bears sharp left at a junction, signed Lustleigh. Continue gently uphill. 5Keep an eye out for a byway on the right (‘to road near Hatherleigh Farm’). Turn right, still uphill; the tarmac way degrades to a rough track between banks, with Higher Knowle Wood left. Eventually the track levels off, with views towards Bovey Tracey right. 6Meet a lane on a bend; almost immediately turn left into Higher Knowle Wood (Woodland Trust). A pleasant walk through pretty beech and oak woodland leads to a gate, then a hedged path dropping gently downhill. Meet a track and keep straight on, soon hitting tarmac. 7At the junction (Brookfield) turn left along the lane towards Knowle. Take the first lane right bear right downhill to pass the extraordinary collection of thatched houses that make up Wreyland. At the next junction turn right to pass the largest house in the hamlet (dating from the 1360s, but altered in 1680) which has appeared on countless calendars. Cross the Wray Brook and pass the cricket pitch; cross under the railway line to reach the village green and stone cross, erected in memory of a former rector, with the church beyond. ■ Another eating option, depending on your timing: for a delicious light lunch or cream tea while in Lustleigh try the Primrose Tea Rooms, passed on Point 7 of the walk. Tel: (01647) 227365, www.primrosetearooms.co.uk.

64 DARTMOOR

Where to eat As a former student at Exeter University, and a one-time resident of Lustleigh, I’ve known The Cleave for a very long time! I last wrote about the pub back in the summer of 2005, so it was with great interest that I revisited it with my Dartmoor Magazine hat on. Knowing that it had been under new managership since March 2010, and having heard about various recent ‘changes’, I entered almost nervously… but I needn’t have worried. Landlord Ben Whitton, most recently hailing from Henley-on-Thames, but coming from a family experienced in the running of restaurants and pubs (his parents live in Manaton and his father, John, is co-owner) has been very canny in his ‘renovations’, which serve to increase the number of covers (to a total of 250!) in this delightful old inn almost imperceptibly. Locals still have their beloved front bar, in the original 15th-century farmhouse: all low beams, granite walls, inglenook fireplace, and traditional pub comfort (and the only bar where walkers can take their dogs). The ‘other bar’ towards the back of the building has been spruced up and now serves as a clean, comfortable, spacious area for informal dining, with a subtle railway theme (the old Moreton-to-Bovey railway line overlooks the building). Back in the farmhouse part is the original ‘front room’, giving three separate drinking and dining areas, each with a markedly different character. And outside there are plenty of tables in the pretty cottage garden. The menu too has been somewhat spruced up. Local produce is used as much as possible (even Devon ostrich on occasion), and everything is made on the premises in the recently extended kitchen. The menu changes daily, and includes such items as vegetable lasagne, chicken chasseur, devilled pork and cod kiev: portions are generous, with excellent dishes of accompanying vegetables, and prices reasonable. Ben’s plan (aided and abetted by his ‘star waiter’ – his 11-year-old son Dillon) to provide the best quality food at pub prices has certainly worked. Puddings are all priced at £5.25: crême brulée, apple and pomegranate tarte tatin, homemade iced parfaits… and there’s a local cheeseboard. As one might expect, local beer is always on tap – from Otter Brewery – plus a guest ale such as Exeter Falls Over.

The Cleave Lustleigh TQ13 9TJ Tel: (01647) 277223 Email: ben@thecleavelustleigh.com www.thecleavelustleigh.com Open Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, food 11am–9pm Sun midday–11pm, food 12–7pm, 9pm high season Booking advised (essential Sun); mains £5–£15; Sunday lunch under £10, vegetarian option

IN THE GARDEN

reams On the edge of Dartmoor – a garden of dreams O

The Garden House

WORDS Sue Allen PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE FORTESCUE GARDEN TRUST

any an enthusiastic amateur gardener must have dreamed of giving up their job, retiring to some rural idyll where the soil and climate were more than usually favourable for gardening, and gradually creating a garden of perfection. This was the opportunity taken by Lionel Fortescue at the end of World War II when he retired from his teaching post at Eton. With his wife Katharine he bought an old Georgian vicarage at Buckland Monachorum, five miles south of Tavistock, and proceeded to extend and plant that garden to his own liking. Lionel was blessed with a deep knowledge of plants and had a special interest in forms and varieties of outstanding merit. He was also exceptionally creative and artistic. Each successive Head Gardener at The Garden House has also possessed these talents and, over nearly 70 years, not only have they respected the wonderful legacy of Lionel Fortescue, they have also used their own vision and horticultural creativity to present a 10-acre garden on the southwestern edge of Dartmoor, which is today nationally recognised to be one of the finest in Britain. At its heart is the historic Walled Garden, its terraces centred on the romantic ruins of a 14th-century vicarage. It is the creation of Lionel’s artistic eye, his imaginative use of colour, texture and form as well as his gardening mantra – ‘Nothing but the best’ – and when Keith Wiley took over as Head Gardener in 1978, he ensured the Fortescue ethos of striving for excellence was always to be carried forward. Keith’s stewardship took The Garden House through a 25-year period of tremendous development at a time when gardening was growing in popularity. He worked tirelessly to develop 6 acres of pasture in a style of planting known as ‘New Naturalism’, a pioneering approach which is still associated with his name.

Keith’s personal vision succeeded in recreating on a north-facing Devon slope vistas inspired by his observation of natural landscapes from around the world. Visitors today can enjoy the Acer Glade giving an impression of the autumn colours of New England, and the Cottage Garden inspired by the sheer density of flowering in a Cretan meadow. In 2003 Matt Bishop was appointed Head Gardener, and quickly used his specialist interest in snowdrops and bulbs to extend the season of colour. The summer myriad of poppies in the South African styled garden and the Wild Flower Meadow with its amazing variety of species are also examples of Matt’s own imaginative talent. Following a decade as Head Gardener, Matt has recently moved on leaving his own special legacy – a 2-acre Arboretum which he designed and created to mark the Golden Jubilee of the Fortescue Garden Trust, the charity which now owns and manages The Garden House. This beautiful site with its lake, ornamental bridges and meandering paths now contains over a hundred newly-planted trees, many of them rare, and all carefully selected for their interest and impact throughout the seasons. Lionel Fortescue would most definitely approve! Although The Garden House is exceptional in that its varied planting produces colour throughout the year, like most Westcountry gardens it is particularly glorious in spring. A large number of Magnolias delight in the early months, and none more so than Magnolia ‘Felix Jury’ planted only six years ago. It is hard to believe that its magnificent, almost translucent hotpink blooms up to 30cm across are real! These luscious-looking flowers stop visitors in their tracks, and are probably the most photographed in the garden. As well as the Spring Bulb Meadow with its multicoloured carpet of tiny showstoppers, visitors are attracted by

The Cottage Garden, looking towards St Andrew’s Church, Buckland Monachorum

DARTMOOR 65

IN THE GARDEN

eams On the edge of Dartmoor – a garden of dreams On the garden’s Wisterias, which bloom in later spring. Wisterias are often regarded as one of the jewels of the botanic world, their long racemes in glorious shades of deep lavender, pale blue, pink and white never failing to delight. A range of varieties are grown at The Garden House, imaginatively adorning walls, pillars and bridges with another specimen, Wisteria ‘Burford’, even resembling a huge umbrella, under which one can gaze up at the sky through a canopy of mauve blossom.

And so this magical garden moves into another exciting era. In January this year horticultural stewardship of The Garden House was passed to Nick Haworth… and now one more talented and creative Head Gardener can aspire to realise his own dreams for this corner of a Devon landscape. ■

The Garden House, Plant Sales and Tearooms are open daily 1 March–3 November 10.30am–5pm. www.thegardenhouse.co.uk

66 DARTMOOR

1 The Magic Circle 2 Rambling Wisteria ‘Burford’ on Tom’s Steps 3 The Spring Bulb Meadow 4 The Lake in the Jubilee Aboretum (opened in 2012)

SPRINGTIME GLORY n the edge

Free admission for RHS Members

Buckland Monachorum Devon, PL20 7LQ Signed off the A386 at Yelverton

Enjoy the magic of Spring! RHS GARDEN ROSEMOOR, DEVON An inspirational garden and a great day out! There are around 35 events and workshops this spring.

rhs.org.uk/rosemoor Follow us

@the_rhs

Credit ÂŠ RHS

0845 265 8072

/rhsrosemoor

Reg. Charity No. 222879/SC038262

Stunning 10-acre historic garden on the western edge of Dartmoor. Beautiful all season. Open daily 1 Marâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;3 Nov, 10.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;5pm Tearooms and Plant Sales

2-for-1

Two people admitted for the full adult price with this voucher. Valid until 21 April 2013. (Not valid with any other offer. Photocopies not accepted.)

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DIG FOR VICTORY! SUNDAY 26TH & 27TH MAY 2013 10AM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4PM BOTH DAYS TAVISTOCK PANNIER MARKET & TOWN HALL FREE ENTRY Inspiring Garden Displays â&#x2014;? Horticultural Trade Stands Artisan Food and Craft Hall â&#x2014;? Demonstrations Expert Advice www.tavistock.gov.uk 01822 613529 gardenfestival@tavistock.gov.uk Follow Tavistock Garden Festival on Twitter @TaviGardenFest or on Facebook at www.facebook.com/TavistockGardenFestival

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WALKING ON DARTMOOR CONSERVATION

Springtime in Sheepstor

This circuit above Burrator Lake includes medieval crosses, an imposing tor and a sea of bluebells (if you’re lucky!) WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS DEBORAH MARTIN

highlight of this walk is the magnificent display of bluebells in Burrator Wood. However, with the unpredictability of the seasons these days, it’s hard to say exactly when is the best time to see them. Around the first week in May used to be a good guide, but much depends on the monsoon… There’ll be spring flowers of one sort or another for sure, though, as the route includes valleys and woodland as well as open moor. Other features along the way include several ancient granite crosses. The first of these is passed at Cross Gate, close to the Devonport Leat. This restored cross stands on the Monks’ Path, which connected Buckfast and Buckland Abbeys and can still be traced by a line of crosses extending west from Holne Moor. The next two on our route are encountered at Sheepstor churchyard. Passing the church porch, look left to see a cross being used as a gatepost in the churchyard wall. Then, through the lych gate is the village cross on a tiered base. Further on we pass Marchant’s Cross, standing beside what is variously known as the Abbot’s 68 DARTMOOR

Way or the Jobbers’ Path used by wool merchants. Despite an unhappy collision with a runaway vehicle and subsequent re-erection, this is still the tallest cross on the moor and probably dates from the 13th century or earlier. (If you divert into Meavy to visit The Royal Oak Inn, yet another medieval cross will be seen beside the famous old oak tree.) As well as the crosses, Sheepstor churchyard houses an unusual tomb of red granite, that of Sir James Brooke, Rajah of Sarawak, who lived in nearby Burrator House. The church itself is a sturdy 14thcentury building and inside you’ll find information on this unlikely connection with the Far East. A potted history of Plymouth’s water supply is revealed on this perambulation round Burrator Reservoir. Early on we walk alongside the Devonport Leat, constructed in the 1790s and still in use, though now its water is diverted into the reservoir. The latter, built 100 years later and then enlarged in the 1920s by raising the height of the dams, now provides a major part of the city’s water. (Burra – or Beara – Tor itself, incidentally,

is hidden amongst the trees beyond the eastern end of the main dam.) Near the end of the walk a dry leat bed is met below Burrator dam; this was the Plymouth Leat (also called Drake’s Leat), opened in 1591 and the earliest of Plymouth’s moorland leats. Its headweir on the Meavy now lies beneath the reservoir. Prior to the flooding of this valley, where Newleycombe Lake and Narrator (or Deancombe) Brook join the Meavy, several farms existed here. Now deserted, the remains of two – Middleworth and Dean Combe – are passed on the walk. At Middleworth a two-storey farm building still stands; at Dean Combe the outlines of several buildings can be seen either side of the lane. Later we pass the substantial and beautifully restored Yeo Farm, which bears the date 1610 on its two-storeyed porch. In between is the exhilarating climb to Sheeps Tor, whose bulky form towers over its tiny village. Pause here to enjoy the exceptional views and explore the rock piles and cliffs of the tor. (There’s a rock basin on the easternmost top.) After this it’s mainly – though not entirely – downhill. ■

WALKING ON DARTMOOR CONSERVATION

THE WALK MAP OS Explorer OL28 (1:25,000) START/FINISH Old quarry car park south of Burrator dam, SX 549 677 DISTANCE 12.3km (72/3 miles) TIME About 4½ hours TERRAIN Footpaths and bridleways (some very muddy after rain); open moorland over Sheeps Tor; minor roads. Fairly steep climb to Sheeps Tor, otherwise only gentle ascents. Navigation straightforward PUBLIC TRANSPORT Regular buses to Yelverton; limited service from Yelverton to Dousland and Meavy (Beacon Bus 56); www.journeydevon.info REFRESHMENTS The Royal Oak Inn, Meavy, tel: (01822) 852944

From the left (west) corner of the car park a path leads uphill away from the road and then bears right to a signpost. Turn right, then at the second signpost by a loop in the track take the upper branch to go north along the old railway track. At a gate continue into the woods. Just ahead is a small building and a shute where the Devonport Leat runs into a pipe; leave the track and take the leatside path. At a road the path descends to a gate to cross it then continues by the leat. At the second road take the footpath opposite, signed to Cross Gate, into the forestry. Bear right onto a track. Over a ladder stile at the forest’s end is a junction: continue ahead for Cross Gate.

At Cross Gate the medieval cross stands beside the Devonport Leat

Turn left and follow the road over another bridge. At the bend cross the car park on the left to a track between walls. Ignore the left footpath and follow the track east, passing the ruins of Middleworth Farm. Stay on the track until you reach a junction and signpost, where you turn right for Sheepstor Common. (It’s worth continuing ahead for a few steps to see Dean Combe Farm remains.)

Norsworthy Bridge on the River Meavy

Descend to cross Narrator Brook by a clapper bridge, and at the fork bear right. The path climbs steeply beside a fence and levels out at the edge of the plantation. Continue ahead to cross a stream, then follow the path as it curves right. It gradually diverges from the right wall and heads west towards Sheeps Tor. At a fork go right towards an upright stone, now west-northwest, and cross a ditch beside the stone (marked PCWW 1919), then turn west again uphill to Sheeps Tor. Climb to the top for a view over the reservoir and all round.

Near the start of the walk there’s a view over Burrator Reservoir to Sheeps Tor

A clapper bridge spans Narrator Brook beside Deancombe Ford

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Passing through a bank, the path runs parallel to the road through semi-woodland. Over a stile continue through a plantation and soon fork right to reach the road at a gate and stile. Turn left to Cross Gate where the road crosses the leat. Leave the road and follow the path beside the leat, passing the granite cross. Where a track crosses stay with the leat until it reaches another track (below Leather Tor); double back right on this, then very soon left on a path to Norsworthy Bridge. Cross the next track and descend through forest. The path reaches the road where it crosses the Meavy at Norsworthy Bridge.

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WALKING ON DARTMOOR

After three stiles you enter Burrator Wood where the path is well marked by yellow spots on trees. Enjoy the bluebells if you’re here at the right time! At the wood’s end a stile leads to a sunken track, then a broader track, then a waymarked footpath. The path joins a road at Yeo House. Turn left to reach the road junction at Marchant’s Cross.

Looking south east from the top of Sheeps Tor, as the cloud lifts in the distance

Now skirt round the east side of the main outcrop and take a path that descends south towards an unfenced road. At the road turn right and descend to a T-junction. Turn right here into Sheepstor village. Where the road bends left take a right footpath through the churchyard. This leads to the main lych gate and the cross beside a road junction. Take the minor running south and in just over 100m turn right on a track signed to Marchant’s Cross. Soon there’s a fork: bear left and follow the lower edge of the field, then past a telegraph pole cross diagonally to the top left corner. Through two gateways look for the yellow arrows and follow the right edge of the next field to its far end.

Turn right towards Meavy. Where the road bends right cross the open area ahead to reach the river; if the water is low cross the stepping-stones beside the old ford and continue on the road. (If they’re impassable use the road bridge.) At the next junction (The Royal Oak is a short distance to the left) keep ahead, then almost immediately take a right path, signed to Burrator Dam. Cross a field and enter woodland, forking left uphill (yellow spots). After a while the path runs beside the dry bed of a leat. At a fork bear left uphill to reach the road. Turn left back to the car park.

Bluebells in Burrator Wood

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reviews

BOOK REVIEWS

BOOK

John Earle examine some recent publications

‘A very superior quarry’ A History of Quarrying at Meldon R.W.D Fenn and A.B. Yeoman Aggregate Industries UK Limited 2012 p/b Illustrated Limited copies available from Amy Shepherd (Amy.Shepherd@aggregate.com) This is an important book for anybody who has an interest in the history of the industries, railways and quarrying on Dartmoor, as well as community history. The story of Meldon starts back in the 12th century with the building of Okehampton Castle, and comes up to date with the loss of the contract to provide rail ballast for Network Rail after March 2009, and subsequently the closure and mothballing of the quarry in 2011. It is interesting to note that the Meldon area is unique in that it supplied a type of granite called aplite, as well as ordinary granite and limestone. Aplite was used for the walls of Okehampton Castle, as well as the castle at Gidleigh. But commercial quarrying at Meldon really began in the 18th century for limestone, not granite, to be burnt in the nearby limekilns to produce quicklime to counteract the acid soil. This book continues with a meticulously researched history of the development of the quarry with a great many quotes from letters, articles, newspapers, and statements from the businesses and people involved. There are a number of excellent historic black-and-white and colour photographs. The chapter on the building of the rail link to Okehampton with its branch line to the quarry is fascinating. The proposal was made as early as 1831, but it was not until 1871 that the formal opening took place. The extension of the line beyond Okehampton necessitated the building of the magnificent viaduct (1874–79); a triumph of Victorian engineering. The chapter ‘War, Reservoirs and a Bypass’ deals with a controversial period in Meldon Quarry’s history, providing an unbiased account of the wheeling and dealing and acrimonious disputes over Meldon Reservoir, and later the bypass through the deer park of Okehampton Castle. The champion of Dartmoor, the redoubtable Lady Sylvia Sayer, is quoted in detail, revealing her determination to protect her beloved moor. The final chapters deal with the closing down of the quarry, and the last words rest with Laurie

Quinn, Area Director of Baron Aggregates: ‘All that remains now is for us to finalise and implement a restoration scheme that will put the quarry to sleep in such a way that befits the area of outstanding natural beauty in which it rests.’ Sylvia Sayer would be pleased.

Devon Food Heroes With recipes by Peter Gorton Peter Gorton & Adrian Oakes Halsgrove 2012 h/b Illustrated £14.99 ISBN 978 0 85704 152 4 You can hardly turn the television on these days without there being a programme about cooking with chefs, both professional or amateur, sweating over hot stoves, many competing to be the top chef of the moment. Meanwhile there is an accompanying surge, thank goodness, in an interest in British and, if possible, locally produced food. We have Taste of the West here in the West Country. Now we also have this excellent book from Halsgrove that narrows it down to food from Devon. Who better to write it (with some mouthwatering recipes to boot), than Peter Gorton, one-time chef at The Carved Angel and later The Horn of Plenty, and now with his own restaurant in Tavistock. Then to add to the ingredients, ask an outstanding photographer to take the illustrations, and include his comments in the text: Adrian Oakes is a well-known landscape and contemporary photographer. The result is a unique book that features some of the best food producers in Devon, often with intimate portraits of the people and businesses concerned. There are brilliant colour photographs of both food and people, and marvellous recipes to set the juices flowing. Indeed a ‘horn of plenty!’ Only 13 producers appear directly in the book, but a gazetteer of Devon food producers fills three full pages: an astonishing list that makes clear what a remarkable county Devon is from a food-producing point of view. You need never buy food or drink from anywhere else! ‘Food miles’ and ‘carbon footprint’ take on a very real meaning here. And Dartmoor features of course with the Dartmoor Brewery at Princetown – the highest in England at 1400ft – and its famous Jail Ale, while the Dartmoor Farmers produce ‘Real Beef and Lamb’ as their slogan tells us.

This delightful and interesting book has found a niche in the book market and would be a welcome addition to any Devon kitchen; it’s good to know where one’s food and drink comes from.

Goodbye Old Friend A Sad Farewell to the Working Horse Simon Butler Halsgrove 2012 h/b Illustrated £19.99 ISBN 978 0 85704 1270 8 This latest book from Simon Butler more or less takes over from where his outstanding and best-selling book The War Horses left off, after over one million horses were killed in the Great War. His new book is, on one hand, an important social document, while on the other it is a marvellous nostalgic glimpse at the magnificent beasts that were such an important part of our lives until the 1950s. I worked with horses as a boy in the 1940s and 50s on the farm where I lived for a while during World War II and after. But as Simon writes ‘The image created of a ploughman and his team breasting the gentle rise of a furrowed field, bathed in evening sunlight, is universally set in the British psyche.’ But it is flawed and false. Life was hard both for horse and man, with low pay and long hours. But something was lost as horses were replaced by machines; a deep skill and tradition that was passed from father to son. Filling a tractor with diesel is not quite the same. This is a beautifully produced book with some 300 amazing archive photographs, often with the names of the long-forgotten people featured, while the research is profound, with several interviews with men who worked with horses and had an intimate knowledge of them. The chapters deal with ‘The Horse on the Land’, ‘The Horse and the Village’, ‘The Iron Horse’ (a splendid discourse on the arrival of the steam traction engine,) and Simon then touches again on the horrors of the Great War. The final chapters are ‘Goodbye Old Friend’ which introduces the tractor, and ‘The Lost World’, as horses finally disappear from our lives. I cannot emphasise enough the wonder of the quite extraordinary archive photographs and the amazing, important story that this book tells. It could be deemed nostalgic and sentimental, but in reality is ‘the land of lost content’ and a story that needed to be told.

DARTMOOR 71

NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL TRUST

Time to prepare Mick Jones, National Trust Ranger

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PHOTOGRAPH ALISTAIR HESLETINE

pring is here. The memories of a long, cold, wet winter fade with the promise of long days, warm sunshine, and the bursting of new life ahead. But hold onto those memories of winter for a moment. Do they include snuggling into your favourite armchair in front of a blazing wood fire sipping a warm glass of port, with the dog flat out by the fireplace, while outside the wind howled and the rain battered on your windows? Or was this domestic idyll marred by wood that resisted lighting and then would only stubbornly smoulder, producing lots of smoke and insufficient heat to warm the port (let alone the room) or the dog, which stayed curled up in its basket by the radiator? If you recognise the first scenario you can relax and enjoy the wonders of nature waking from its slumbers; you will have got next winter sorted out already. If your experience was closer to the latter then now is the time to think about next winter’s firewood. No worries, I hear you say – I will just buy some in from the firewood merchant in the autumn – his wood is well seasoned. It’s helpful to understand just what this term means; traditionally leaving wood to dry for a number of seasons. The key word here is ‘dry’. For firewood to burn efficiently it should have a moisture content of only 15–20 percent. It was reckoned that oak timber would season at the rate of an inch a year. From my experience of providing 400 tonnes of woodchip for Castle Drogo’s boiler, 20 tonnes of logs for Lydford’s batch boiler and logs for the office and my home, it’s the moisture content of the wood that makes all the difference. So where does this leave you? The only accurate way to test the moisture is to saw a 1cm slice across a log, weigh it on the kitchen scales then put it in a low oven, taking it out occasionally to re-

My log stack. It doesn’t matter if the ends of the logs get a bit wet: this will dry rapidly, but the rain must be kept off the top. This stack of oak will dry for at least three years before I burn it

weigh it. The difference between the first and final weights gives you the amount of moisture in the wood sample you can then work this out as a percentage. Alternatively you can buy a clever little moisture meter for less than £20 which will give you a good idea where you are. There is a lot of wisdom in the following poem below when it comes to firewood: The Firewood Poem Beech-wood fires are bright and clear If the logs are kept a year, Chestnut’s only good they say, If for logs ‘tis laid away. Make a fire of Elder tree, Death within your house will be; But ash new or ash old, Is fit for a queen with crown of gold. Birch and fir logs burn too fast Blaze up bright and do not last, it is by the Irish said Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread. Elm wood burns like churchyard mould, E’en the very flames are cold But ash green or ash brown Is fit for a queen with golden crown.

Poplar gives a bitter smoke, Fills your eyes and makes you choke, Apple wood will scent your room Pear wood smells like flowers in bloom Oaken logs, if dry and old keep away the winter’s cold But ash wet or ash dry a king shall warm his slippers by.* So now you are armed to tackle the firewood merchant with questions. What’s the moisture content? What tree has this wood come from? If he can answer these and supply good dry wood then get the port in and look forward to a long cold winter. If you can source your own wood get some in now, stack it somewhere dry and airy and keep the rain off. Leave it till the winter (even better for the winter after next if you have the space). You can even have a go at stacking art.

* The Firewood Poem, by Celia Congreve, is believed to have been first published in The Times on 2 March 1930. ■

National Trust Time well spent

Castle Drogo, Drewsteignton

01647 433306

The last castle to be built in England As the battle begins to save Castle Drogo take a ‘once in a lifetime’ chance to see behind the scenes and explore new areas open to visitors. Discover the people that created the castle, walk through open storerooms, see the castle’s contents displayed in new ways and go behind the scaﬀolding to get up close to some fascinating building work. The terraced gardens designed for the Drewe family, who lived in the castle, contain borders of roses, rhododendrons and herbaceous plants. Trees and high yew hedges shelter the gardens from the harsh Dartmoor weather and give colour all year round.

The Church House, Widecombe-in-the-Moor

01364 621321

One of the best surviving examples built c 1540 A place to hold parish festivities or ‘ales’ and to enable liquor to be brewed for public feasts. Today it is still in use by the local community. National Trust Shop and Dartmoor Information point in Sexton’s Cottage adjacent to the Church House.

Finch Foundry, Sticklepath

01837 840046

A 19th-century working water-powered forge Experience the sights and sounds and smells of a Victorian Forge. Watch the huge waterwheels turn as they drive the huge tilt hammer and grindstone.

Lydford Gorge, Lydford

01822 820320

A not to be missed 3-mile circular walk through the deepest gorge in the South West Walk to the 30-metre high White Lady Waterfall, step out over the bubbling Devil’s Cauldron and walk beside the River Lyd as it tumbles, thunders and twists through the Lyd Valley.

Enjoy the Dartmoor Countryside 01626 834748 Circular walks for all abilities; from gentle strolls to challenging routes across open moorland and through steep sided valleys. Go cycling, bird and wildlife watching, orienteering or ﬁnd your favourite picnic spot. Please phone, email dartmoor@nationaltrust.org.uk or check out the Dartmoor website for things you can do at http://DartmoorNT.org.uk Follow us on Twitter and Facebook (Dartmoor NT) for the latest news.

For opening times, admission prices and events visit: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/devoncornwall Registered charity no. 205846

news

from Dartmoor National Park Authority

Mires The Dartmoor Mires Project is a five-year pilot project to explore the feasibility of restoration of degraded blanket bog on Dartmoor. It is led by DNPA in partnership with Natural England, Duchy of Cornwall, Dartmoor Commoners’ Council, Environment Agency, and South West Water, which has provided significant funding. The project started in 2010 with the aim to Blanket bog at Winney’s Down explore the effects of restoration on around 110ha of high-quality blanket bog (see Issue 104, autumn 2011). So far, 35ha have been restored and protected at two sites at Winney’s Down on the North Moor. A specially constructed excavator was used to form numerous small blocks across the gullies, with peat from the immediate vicinity. These blocks trap rainwater, forming a series of small, shallow pools, thus enabling the water table to recover, halting erosion and protecting areas where the bog is still in good condition. This provides ideal conditions for bog plants to recolonise naturally. This method will be employed on further areas with works planned for Flat Tor Pan during late summer/ autumn 2013. A research and monitoring programme allows us to assess how restoration works affect the biodiversity, hydrology, and green house gas emissions of the blanket bog. For more information, and to download the project newsletter, visit www. dartmoormiresproject.org.uk.

Moor than meets the eye Project Mention Dartmoor, and many images such as tors, ponies, stone crosses and stone rows spring to mind. Few take the time to delve deeper into why these things are as they are, and how they come together to make this such a special place. Delving into Dartmoor’s past shows how much man has affected the landscape over the centuries, and we are fortunate that, in many cases, the workings of successive generations overlay, rather than destroy, evidence of previous activity. This is certainly the case in the southeast of the National Park between the Dart and the Teign, and running from the high moor to Lustleigh Cleave and the Bovey Valley. DNPA has been leading the development of the Moor than meets the eye Project, with a range of other

Safety on Dartmoor Day The Safety on Dartmoor Day – Sunday 23 June – is an annual event run at the National Trust property at Lydford Gorge on the northwestern side of Dartmoor. The aim of the event is to give the public a chance to meet, talk to and learn about all the various organisations that have a specific role in making Dartmoor a safe and enjoyable place to visit. Admission charges to Lydford Gorge apply.

partners. Local residents, businesses, farmers, visitors and agencies will be involved in working together to share, understand and appreciate the unique historic landscape of southeast Dartmoor and to contribute to its future. The Project is being supported through the Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) under their Landscape Partnership scheme, which could see them grant nearly £2 million with a potential budget of £3.9 million being delivered over five years

Fire on Dartmoor Traditional swaling (controlled burning) to manage vegetation is permitted on Dartmoor between 1 October and 31 March. If you see fire fighters or suitably equipped personnel are clearly in attendance at a fire, please do not feel obliged to contact the Fire and Rescue Service, but if you have any doubts please phone 999. Information on the location of the fire, including the OS grid reference, any identifiable landmarks and nearest road access will help the emergency services. A guidance leaflet is available from NPA Visitor Centres.

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The Project’s Manager and Community & Events Officer are working to develop these ideas further with the partners, and to involve communities in this. The updated Moor than meets the eye project proposals will go to HLF in January 2014, and should provide the key to unlocking and understanding the rich history of southeast Dartmoor. For more information visit www.dartmoor.gov.uk.

NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY

Lend a helping hand for wildlife The Wildlife Hit Squad is a practical volunteer group based at Natural England’s East Dartmoor National Nature Reserve (NNR) near Bovey Tracey. Natural England works in partnership with Butterfly Conservation, DNPA, Devon Wildlife Trust and the Woodland Trust to give volunteers the opportunity to be involved with exciting landscape-scale conservation for wildlife across eastern Dartmoor. The main focus of the project (now in its fourth year), is the conservation of nationally rare fritillary butterflies, for which Dartmoor is a stronghold. Landowners have co-operated with the project allowing the squad to carry

Paws on Dartmoor Dartmoor is a wonderful place to go walking, but over recent years there has been an increase in the number of incidents involving dogs and livestock. On Dartmoor’s common land, ponies, sheep and cows are allowed to graze freely, so you must keep your dog under proper control, or on a short lead, when walking near livestock. It is especially important that your dog is on a lead during the bird breeding and lambing season (1 March–31 July), so that it does not disturb ground-nesting birds, such as skylark, lapwing and curlew, or chase livestock away from their young. Please be considerate to other users and ensure that you clear up after your dog – especially on, or near, a footpath.

Please dispose of poo bags responsibly. Dogs’ mess is not just unpleasant, but can cause serious infections in humans and livestock. Make sure your dog is regularly wormed to keep it healthy and protect Dartmoor’s livestock. Some areas of the moor may host adders, especially during warm weather. To reduce the risk of your dog getting injured, always keep it nearby and in sight. If your dog should be bitten, keep it still and calm (carry it, if possible) and see a vet immediately. Pick up a Paws on Dartmoor leaflet from NPA Visitor Centres, or visit www.dartmoor.gov.uk/dogs.

out practical management on their land, including scrub control on marshy grassland, known locally as rhôs pasture, where purple devil’s-bit scabious plant are vital for marsh fritillary butterflies to breed. Other tasks involve native woodland regeneration and removal of invasive species. The Wildlife Hit Squad always welcomes new recruits. There are a range of tasks taking place on weekdays and weekends throughout the year; please contact Natural England at the Yarner Wood office, tel: (01626) 832330. For more information about volunteering on Dartmoor, visit DNPA’s website and click on About us/Volunteers.

Free entry to Dartmoor National Park Centres Those visiting DNPA’s flagship High Moorland Visitor Centre in Princetown will now be able to enjoy all the exhibitions and displays free of charge. In early December 2012 Authority Members voted to return to a free entry system after a trial period of charging which began in 2011, resulting in a drop in numbers entering the exhibition areas. Anyone who has paid for season ticket entry can receive a full refund when next visiting the Centre. Entry to all National Park Centres is now free of charge.

Local planning in Dartmoor National Park At the time of writing, the National Park Authority is awaiting the results of the independent examination of its Development Management and Delivery (DMD) planning document. A planning inspector assessed the soundness of the plan after it had been submitted to the Secretary of State in May 2012 and public hearings were held on the main issues in December. On the assumption that the inspector does find it sound, the DMD along with the already adopted Core Strategy will set out the planning framework for development in Dartmoor up to 2026. As well as general development policies, the DMD contains a number of specific housing and redevelopment proposals for the larger settlements, such as Ashburton (Chuley Road Industrial Estate), Buckfastleigh (Devonia Woollen Mills site), South Brent (Fairfield) and Chagford (Bellacouch Meadow). Masterplanning exercises will be undertaken for some of those sites, while for others design briefs will be drafted. This is an exciting time for Dartmoor; producing a plan is one side of the planning coin – helping new development to come forward is the other. This is an opportunity to provide new affordable housing, business premises and local services in ways that sustain and enhance the unique characteristics of Dartmoor. To help in the delivery of affordable housing, the Authority proposes to prepare what is known as a ‘supplementary planning document’ to give more guidance and advice on the topic. We hope to produce draft guidance later this year. DARTMOOR 75

NEWS FROM THE NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY

The DNP Management Plan is currently under review. This is an important document as it provides a long-term ‘Vision for the National Park’ and the priorities for action and partnership working on Dartmoor over the next five years. The NPA is responsible for leading the production of the Management Plan, but it is a Plan for Dartmoor, not just the Authority, and so will depend on a wide range of public bodies, voluntary groups, and local businesses and communities to help deliver the actions identified. Initially, a review of the last Management Plan 2007–12 was undertaken, which confirmed that over 90 percent of the actions identified had been delivered, a great achievement given the ambitions of the Plan and the changing economic climate which resulted in reduced resources being available. Monitoring of the State of the Park is also undertaken, to identify how effective the last Plan has been in conserving and enhancing the special qualities of the National Park, and promoting understanding and enjoyment of them. This monitoring, and a review of other plans, strategies and evidence, helped to identify a number of issues that need to be addressed over the next five years. These issues were consulted on via an online public questionnaire, and the four iconsidered to be important by the most people were:

• Threats from inappropriate development • Future viability of hill farming • Visitor pressure on ‘honeypot’ sites • Habitats and wildlife under threat People were also asked to sum up in three words what was special to them about Dartmoor: wilderness, space, openness, tranquillity, the landscape and natural beauty, freedom, access, unspoilt are some of those most often suggested. The questionnaire also asked about the Ambitions in the current Management Plan. The top four Ambitions, which over half of respondents scored as ‘very important’, are:

• Dartmoor will provide the opportunity to experience solitude, peace, dark night skies and a sense of space • Dartmoor will support a diverse range of plants and animals characteristic of the area in a network of healthy, interlinked habitats and ecosystems • Dartmoor will retain a rich cultural and natural environment, reflecting a living and working upland landscape • Dartmoor’s extensive archaeological and historic landscapes will be valued and maintained A series of meetings were held with partner organisations on Dartmoor, and four workshops held in November 2012 around the three themes of ‘Sustain, Enjoy and Prosper’. These provided an opportunity to discuss the long-term ambitions for the National Park, as well as a more focused debate on priorities over the next five years. In particular, the workshops helped to identify how partner organisations, voluntary groups, local businesses and communities can help to deliver the Management Plan, and where there may be opportunities for future partnership working. Reports of the consultation and workshops are available on the website. One of the key outcomes is that people feel the next Management Plan needs to be shorter, more succinct, and focused on a few priorities. As a consequence, a set of draft priorities has been identified which form the basis for action plans (correct at time of going to press). 76 DARTMOOR

Draft priorities 1 The future of farming and forestry Supporting sustainable farming and woodland businesses that conserve and enhance the special qualities of Dartmoor 2 Natural networks Promoting healthy natural ecosystems and improving the connections between them, both within and across National Park boundaries 3 Making the most of cultural heritage Conserving and enhancing the archaeology and historic built environment and helping people to discover more about Dartmoor’s heritage 4 Enjoying Dartmoor Helping people to enjoy and learn about Dartmoor, with a particular focus on managing access and visitor pressure at heavily used sites 5 Dartmoor open for business Supporting a diverse, resilient economy that contributes to the special qualities of the National Park 6 Community focus Supporting and empowering local communities to help meet identified needs, with a particular focus on young people In addition, there were strong messages about the need for improved communication about what is happening on Dartmoor, the work of the Authority and other organisations, and a greater focus on engagement with local communities, businesses, and others in how the Management Plan is delivered. Finally, the Management Plan needs to help maintain a Dartmoor resilient to the changes ahead. The draft Management Plan will be out for consultation in spring 2013, and we would encourage all readers to provide their views on this important Plan for Dartmoor. Keep an eye on the NPA’s website for further information. Visit www.dartmoor.gov.uk/lookingafter/management-plan-review.

Management Plan Review

Nick Baker celebrates the opening of the Jubilee Orchard, Mary Tavy

Nurturing the future

Mary Tavy and Brentor Primary School’s dream of developing a school field into a community orchard has been realised with support from DNPA’s Celebrating your Community fund (see Issue 109, winter 2012). Working with their local Ranger the teachers and pupils have planted a variety of native apple trees in the Jubilee Orchard. It is hoped that this will lead to an annual community apple event. After successfully planting the trees at the beginning of December, the school was delighted to welcome naturalist, TV presenter and Dartmoor resident Nick Baker along to officially open the orchard. Nick Baker said: ‘Positive outdoor experiences as a youngster are likely to inspire an interest in the natural world. The marvellous opportunity to be present at the opening of this new orchard will hopefully trigger a lifelong appreciation for the beauty of Dartmoor National Park in the young people of this school.’

READERS’ LETTERS

Letters

TO THE EDITOR

Mark Fenlon The Milestone Society Having read the ‘Latest news from the Milestone Society’ on page 7 of Issue 109, I would like to forward details of another stone (see photos) I found on the same day as the two mentioned. After finding the County Stone at Grenofen Bridge, I made my way to Whitchurch Down, my main purpose being to find the Tavistock/Ashburton stone shown as being re-erected, sometime during 1974, in DM Issue 64, page 26. As the photo showed the stone beside a wall, I followed the boundary walls on the southern side of Whitchurch Down. Before I came across the ‘13 Miles To Plymouth’ milestone, I found another ‘inscribed’ stone built into the wall. It looked like a gatepost and had, what seemed to be, a ‘C’ cut into it. I have no idea what this stone is, nor of its purpose. I’m not really sure if the mark is in fact a ‘C’. Perhaps your informed readers could shed light on this puzzle.

David Beattie In response to Steve Jones’ letter in Issue 108, other readers may have drawn your attention to this extract from Mike Brown’s superb Guide to Dartmoor (2001): 65506696 Built into the slope above the blowing house, situated slightly

higher than the dry leat channel (see below), is a very small shelter, its internal measurements barely 3½x9 feet. The lintel and chimney of a fireplace are still intact, as are the walls and entrance of the tiny building. Its purpose is uncertain, and it could either have been a small tinners’ hut or a warrener’s shelter, although if the latter it is the only one of which I am aware which includes the luxury of a fireplace. Perhaps it was originally a tinners’ hut pressed into service by the warrener of Huntingdon, although Crossing in fact states that it was actually built by a former warrener. Hemery is totally in error in pouring scorn on Crossing’s observations regarding the site and making the bold statement that there is no trace of a shelter here – as noted, far from being untraceable, it is in fact in very good condition – and its use as a lookout shelter by a former warrener, even if not originally erected for this purpose, has more recently been supported by Stanbrook in her book on Dartmoor Forest Farms. The hut is situated approximately 25 yards or so south of the first of two parallel gerts which scar the hillside, and from it the Red Lake tip is directly behind the rock outcrops on the right bank of the Avon below the falls. The dry channel of the Huntingdon Mine Leat can be seen crossing both gerts on walled-up banks and it is interesting to note that a little way upstream the leat channel also cuts through one of the warren buries, both gerts and buries thus pre-dating the cutting of the leat.

Nigel Tigwell After reading Paul Rendell’s letter on Billy’s Tor in DM Issue 109 I felt I needed to respond… I have discussed the letter with Arthur Smith, who has lived in Rundlestone since 1940, and he has also approached Ivan Mead who is a much older former inhabitant of Rundlestone. Both confirm that Billy’s Tor was the local name for Hollow Tor in common usage amongst Rundlestone residents from the late 1930s to around the mid-1970s.

After this time its usage became less common, possibly as the last of Billy Easterbrook’s siblings died in 1976. The quarry above Yellowmead Farm that Paul Rendell refers to was called Pitts Pile and was quarried by Albert Cole, who held the farm tenancy. On the basis of the folk memory of Arthur and Ivan, I stand by my article as published.

John Stickland johnstickland@talk21.com johniesmeanderings.blogspot.com Walking immediately on the Tavistock side of Tor Cottages, Merrivale (just above the entrance track to the now disused Merrivale Quarry), we came across the profile of a slightly round topped, regular piece of granite, with a ‘J’ cut into it... I’ve searched the internet and Dave Brewer’s The ‘J’ stone excellent (and authoritative) book Boundary Stones of Dartmoor, and I can’t find any mention of this stone (location SX 54537 75112). On another occasion, while exploring the Heckwood Tor area …I walked straight onto what appears to be an abandoned Whitchurch parish boundary stone (not mentioned in DB) at SX 53693 73883. Is this an unfinished or abandoned boundary stone? Was it used in an attempt to change the boundary between Whitchurch and Sampford Spiney, that had been in dispute for many years? Does WB stand for something else, other than ‘Whitchurch Bounds’?

The recumbent ‘WB’ stone near Heckwood Tor

DARTMOOR 77

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

CROSSWORD COMPILED BY AILEEN CARRETT

ACROSS 1 Shouts for more air (7) 5 No top on complicated crossover (7) 9 Unclean start for relation at the ‘pop shop’ (5) 10 Planners must look closely at deer signs (9) 11 An extra large belt needed for an insect (6) 12 A night flier home for starter (1-7) 14 Reliable, but loses his head and turns red (5) 15 He gets involved in a fib (3) 19 Where the bird starts its breakfast (3) 20 There is a puzzled trio here (5) 22 All in red, their winter job begins (8) 24 Sounds like a safe way through, but can it be financed (6) 26 Outlooks could be good for a ‘forty-niner’ (9) 27 Devon brew sounds a bit near the edge (5) 28 In law they’re related females either way (7) 29 Deer is definitely headed for what is most wanted (7)

1 2 DOWN 1 Could be called cold fruit (9) 2 In colic hens are found on the rocks (7) 9 3 He’s always the solo-ist (3-6) 4 The whole team just dies in a mess (4) 5 Cross it on the moor after the 11 game (10) 6 Things which fade into the 14 darkest hours (5) 7 You’ll get too ‘ot, if you’re greedy (7) 8 Yes, on looking back, it’s extra 18 inquisitive (5) 13 Mentions you need good ones (10) 16 Tarts face exposure by 22 archaeologists (9) 17 They say that it must… if it can’t be cured (2-7) 18 Spoon is holding some lethal 26 substances (7) 21 Make a new request or demand again (7) 28 22 You need to know them, or you’re sunk (5) Answers on page 81 23 Two in a bar (5) 25 All spent in a fused plug (4)

DIARY MARCH

Tuesday 5 March The Royal Oak Inn in 1963 (BBC film) To be shown at Meavy Parish Hall AGM. Contact Stephen Earp for details, tel: (01822) 852944. Murder at the raceourse (talk) Jill Drysdale, Princetown History Club. 7.30pm, Princetown Community Centre. Tel: (01647) 231080. Wednesday 6 March In the footsteps of Peter Orlando Hutchinson (talk) Philippe Planel. Church House, Widecombe. 7.30pm, Widecombe and District Local History Group, tel: (01364) 621246. www.widecombe-in-the-moor.com Thursday 7 March CS Retirement Fellowship (Princetown) 12.30pm, Prince of Wales, Princetown. Guest speaker Gerald Williamson ‘Horse Power through the Ages: The Hub of the System’. Saturday 9 March Moretonhampstead Festival of Food, Drink and the Arts See In the News. 78 DARTMOOR

12 13 15

24 25 27

This diary relies on people telling the Editor – tel: (01647) 441174, email: editor@dartmoormagazine.co.uk – what’s going on over the next few months – insertion is free! Copy date for the Summer 2013 Diary (1 June – covering June, July and August) is Monday 22 April.

Sunday 10 March Mothering Sunday South Devon Railway, Buckfastleigh. Tel: 0843 357 1420 www.southdevonrailway.co.uk Sunday 10 March & Sunday 5 May Daffodil and Bluebell Woodland Walk 11am–5pm Old Orchard House, Denham Bridge Road, Buckland Monachorum, PL20 6ET, courtesy of Anthony and Wendy Wates. Waterproof boots/shoes essential. Admission £4, children free. Light refreshments. Parking restricted. In aid of the Mary Budding Trust. Monday 11 March Dartmoor - people and special places (talk) Andrew Cooper. 7.30–9.30pm, Bastin Hall, Elm Grove, Exmouth. Suggested donation £2.50 to include light refreshments. Exmouth & Bystock DWT.

Wednesday 13 March The colourful lives of Britain’s marine animals (talk) Paul Naylor, underwater photographer. 8pm, Parish Church Centre, Plymouth Road, Tavistock. Suggested donation £3 to include light refreshments. Tavistock DWT.

Dartmoor Prison (talk) Simon Dell. 7.30pm. North Bovey Village Hall. Tickets £5 (01647) 4440053. Donation bar. Proceeds to Friends of St John’s Church. Friday 15–Sunday 17 March ChagWord Chagford’s first literary festival. 5–11pm Fri, 10am–11pm Sat, 10am–6pm Sun. Tel: (01647) 432304 www.chagword.com Saturday 16 March In the Shadow of the Vikings MED Theatre community play. Manaton Parish Hall, 7.30pm. Tel: (01647) 441356, email: info@medtheatre.co.uk. Sunday 17 March Discover the wild North Moor (walk) Paul Rendell. Start 10am, 6hrs, Ockment Moor (parking at junction of tracks under Row Tor SX 596924). East Mill Tor, Ockment Court, Jacksman Bottom, Great Kneeset, Dinger Tor, West Mill Tor. Further information from Paul Rendell (paul.dartmoor@virgin.net) or visit www.moorlandguides.co.uk

Lent lilies (wild daffodils) in the woods (walk) 10.30am–1pm. Meet Hembury Woods National Trust car park, near Buckfastleigh. Stout footwear, dogs on leads. Contact J. Hodgson, tel: (01364) 642007. South Brent & Ivybridge DWT. Tuesday 19 March Devon’s Medieval Craftsmen (talk) Dr Todd Gray. Meavy Village Hall, 7.30pm. Yelverton & District Local History Society. www.yelvertonhistory.org.uk Wednesday 20 March In the Shadow of the Vikings (play) Mary Tavy Village Hall, 7.30pm. See 16 March. Thursday 21 March In the Shadow of the Vikings (play) Lustleigh Village Hall, 7.30pm. See 16 March. Lukesland Gardens (tour) Ivybridge, 2.30pm. Pre-book through www.invitationtoview.co.uk or tel: (01206) 573948. Friday 22 & Saturday 23 March In the Shadow of the Vikings (play) Moretonhampstead Parish Hall, 7.30pm. See 16 March.

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY Saturday 23 March Ashburton Singers Concert of Russian Sacred Music, 7.30pm Buckfast Abbey with Latvian organist Lilita Ozola. Free admission, retiring collection. Tel: (01364) 654033 www.ashburtonsingers.co.uk Chagford Singers spring concert 7.30pm St Michaels Church, Chagford. Tickets Sally’s Newsagent or tel: (01647) 433770. www.thechagfordsingers.co.uk Ashburton & District Garden Association Spring Show 12.30– 4pm, Town Hall. Tel: (01364) 652877. Sunday 24 March Meldon Viaduct Abseil In aid of Marie Curie. Registration £10, minimum £100 sponsorship. Tel: (01884) 703536 email: waleswestevents@mariecurie. org.uk Gidleigh Parishes Passion Play 10–11.30am in and around Gidleigh church, castle and village hall. Tel: (01647) 432304. Tuesday 26 March Dartmoor’s Sett Makers’ Bankers (talk) Simon Dell. 7.30pm, Phoenix Hall, St John’s Lane, Bovey Tracey. £3 members, £3.50 non members. Bovey Tracey Heritage Trust. www.devonmuseums.net/bovey Wednesday 27–Saturday 30 March Exhibition of Watercolours ‘Dartmoor and Beyond’ by John Christian. 11am–4pm daily, Helpful Holidays, Mill Street, Chagford. Wednesday 27 March The Valiant Soldier, Buckfastleigh Open for the spring and summer season. 12.30–4.30pm Mon, Tue, Thurs, Fri, 10.30am–4.30pm Wed, Sat, Bank Holiday Suns. www.valiantsoldier.org.uk Friday 29 March Good Friday church walk, West Dartmoor See In the News. Exeter Male Voice Choir 7.30pm Whiddon Down Methodist Church. Friday 29 March–Monday 1 April Easter Heritage Gala South Devon Railway, Buckfastleigh. www.southdevonrailway.co.uk Sunday 31 March Biannual Letterbox Meet See In the News.

APRIL

Tuesday 2 April Lesser-known Tors of Dartmoor (talk) Tim Jenkinson. Princetown History Club. See 5 March. Wednesday 3 April Tinworking at Golden Dagger Mine in the 1920s and 1930s (talk) Dr Tom Greeves. Widecombe and District Local History Group. See 6 March.

Thursday 4 April CS Retirement Fellowship (Princetown) 12.30pm, Prince of Wales, Princetown. Guest speaker Robert Hesketh ‘Curious Features in Devon Churches’. Wednesday 10 April The beauty & fascination of Devon’s insects (talk) Dr Robin Wootton. 8pm, Parish Church Centre, Plymouth Road, Tavistock. Suggested donation £3 to include light refreshments. Tavistock DWT. Junior Pony Play (course) Dartmoor Pony Training Centre. For more information visit dptcevents.blogspot. co.uk www.dptc.org.uk.

Andrews Corner Garden, Belstone Open in aid of the Mary Budding Trust 2.30–5.30pm, cream teas, plants for sale. See 14 April. Sunday 21 April–Thursday 3 October Mythic Garden Sculpture Exhibition Stone Lane Gardens, Chagford. 2–6 pm daily. Garden/ exhibition entry £5 adult. Tel: (01647) 231311 www.stonelanegardens.com Tuesday 23 April CS Retirement Fellowship (Princetown) St George’s Day Lunch at mystery venue; coach transport provided. Booking essential; tel: (01822) 890799 for details.

Wednesday 15 May Adult Pony Play (course) Dartmoor Pony Training Centre. See 10 April. Thursday 16 May CS Retirement Fellowship (Princetown) Day trip by coach – destination to be confirmed. For details ring Mike, tel: (01822) 890799. Sunday 19 May Secret Gardens of Skaigh Gardens open in Skaigh Lane, Belstone in aid of Children’s Hospice South West 11am–5pm. All-day refreshments. See 14 April. Tuesday 21 May The Lesser-known Tors of Dartmoor (talk) Tim Jenkinson. Yelverton & District Local History Society. See 19 March.

Friday 12 April Dartmoor Explorer Dartmoor Society event. See In the News.

Thursday 25 April Lukesland Gardens (tour) Ivybridge. See 21 March.

Sunday 14 April Andrews Corner Garden, Belstone Open in aid of National Gardens Scheme 2.30–5.30pm, cream teas, plants for sale. Skaigh Lane, Belstone EX20 1RD. Tel: (01837) 840332 email: edwinarobinhill@btinternet.com www.belstonevillage.net

Saturday 27 April DWT Annual Wildlife Festival 10am–4pm Plymouth City Centre Piazza. Stalls from local wildlife organisations, free activities for children and adults. Devon Wildlife Trust event.

Thursday 23 May Lukesland Gardens (tour) Ivybridge. See 21 March.

The Dartmoor Auctioneer Auction Jubilee Hall, Chagford. Tel: (01647) 432415.

1960s British Railways Mixed Traction Weekend South Devon Railway, Buckfastleigh. www.southdevonrailway.co.uk

Sunday 14 April–Sunday 19 May (Suns, Weds, Bank Hols) Lukesland Gardens Spring Opening Ivybridge, 2–6pm. Dogs welcome on lead. Tel: (01752) 691749 www.lukesland.co.uk Tuesday 16 April The Natural & Human Heritage of Yarner Wood and its surroundings (talk) Albert Knott of East Dartmoor National Nature Reserve. 7.30pm, Phoenix Hall, St John’s Lane, Bovey Tracey. £3 members, £3.50 non members. Bovey Tracey Heritage Trust. www.devonmuseums.net/bovey

MAY Wednesday 1 May Widecombe and District Local History Group AGM See 6 March. Friday 3–Sunday 5 May Mindfulness meditation with horses (course) Dartmoor Pony Training Centre. See 10 April. Saturday 4 May Lustleigh May Day Celebrations in the orchard and village. From 2pm.

The Mariner’s Way (talk) John Risdon. Yelverton & District Local History Society. See 19 March.

Ashburton & District Garden Association Spring Plant Sale 10–11.30am, St John Ambulance Hall, West Street. Tel: (01364) 642458.

Wednesday 17 April Industrial Archaeology of the Belstone area (talk) Chris Walpole and Dr Mick Atkinson of the Devonshire Association. 2pm Belstone Village Hall. Tel: (01752) 673172.

Sunday 5 May Dawn chorus walk Chris Walpole. 5.30–7.30am, meet Belstone Village Hall, breakfast afterwards. Donations to Hall funds. No dogs. Walking boots recommended. Tel: (01837) 840498.

Friday 19 April–Monday 6 May Tavistock Music and Arts Festival See in the News.

Sunday 5 & Monday 6 May Andrews Corner Garden, Belstone Open in aid of the NGS. See 14 April.

Saturday 20 April Dartmoor Jailbreak See In the News.

Tuesday 7 May Tour of Old Exeter Tony Burgess, 7pm Cathedral West Front. Princetown History Club. See 5 March.

Sunday 21 April Discover the wild North Moor (walk) Paul Rendell. Start 10am, 6hrs, Scorhill Gate (parking at end of lane SX 661876) Rival Tor, Hound Tor, Whitemoor Stone Circle, Raybarrow Pool, Kennon Hill and Buttern Hill. See 17 March.

Friday 10 - 12 May Ten Tors Challenge Okehampton Sunday 12 May Andrews Corner Garden, Belstone Open in aid of the NGS. See 14 April.

Friday 25–Sunday 27 May LDWA’s Hundred event See In the News.

Saturday 26 May Dartmoor Preservation Association AGM 2pm. www.dartmoorpreservation.com Saturday 26 & Sunday 27 May Tavistock Garden Festival See In the News. Sunday 27 May Secrets of Belstone Tor (walk) Chris Walpole. 1.30–3.30pm, meet Belstone Village Hall, cream teas afterwards. Donations to Hall funds. Dogs under close control. Tel: (01837) 840498. Lukesland Gardens Special handkerchief tree opening, Ivybridge, 2–6pm. Tel: (01752) 691749 www.lukesland.co.uk Sunday 26 & Monday 27 May Andrews Corner Garden, Belstone Open in aid of the NGS. See 14 April. Tuesday 28 May Hotel Endsleigh Grounds, Garden and Arboretum Open 11am–5pm. Milton Abbot, Tavistock PL19 0PQ. Admission £4, children free. Park in higher car park. Amazing woodlands, river walk and herbaceous gardens; mature and special trees and shrubs, long and short walks. In aid of the Mary Budding Trust. Friday 31 May–Sunday 2 June Semi-feral foal handling course Widecombe in the Moor. Dartmoor Pony Training Centre. See 10 April. DARTMOOR 79

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

NATIONAL TRUST EVENTS An idea of what’s going on at Dartmoor properties this spring.

Castle Drogo

Drewsteignton EX6 6PB www.nationaltrust.org.uk/castledrogo Wednesday winter warmers Wednesday 6–Wednesday 27 March, 12 noon–2.30pm Two-course lunch. £12 (normal admission). Mother’s Day lunch Sunday 10 March, 12 noon–3pm.Roast lunch from £9.50. Normal admission. Easter egg trail Friday 29 March–Monday 1 April, 11am–4pm £2 per trail (normal admission). The Drogo tool kit trail Tuesday 2–Sunday 14 April, 11am–4pm £1.50 per trail (normal admission). Crafty castle capers Wednesday 3 April, 11am–4pm Fun-filled crafty activities. Normal admission. May trail Saturday 4–Monday 6 May, 11am–4pm £1.50 per trail. Normal admission. National Garden Scheme day Sunday 12 May, 9am–5.30pm Normal admission. Lydford Gorge, Lydford Nr Tavistock EX20 4BH Email: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ lydfordgorge Chocolate and roses – natural beauty event Saturday 2 March, 11am–3pm Waterfall Tearooms. £30 per person, booking essential. Family Easter trail Friday 29 March–Monday 1 April, 10am–4.30pm Children 4–12. Child: £2 per trail. Normal admission. Make your own woodland sculpture Saturday 6 & Sunday 7 April, 11am–3pm Family event 11am or 1pm. Suitable for 7 years plus. £5 per item. Normal admission. Mini raft making and racing Sunday 12 May, 1–3pm Child: £2. Normal admission. Finch Foundry, Sticklepath Nr Okehampton EX20 2NW Email: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ finchfoundry

Dartmoor Countryside Plym Valley: Moorland navigation Thursday 21 March, 10am–3pm Adult: £10, child: £5. Booking advisable (01752) 341377, email: plymvalley@nationaltrust.org.uk. Parke: Easter egg trail Friday 29 March, 11am–3pm Meet NT office, SX805 786. Child: £3 per trail. Booking advisable (01626) 834748, email: parke@nationaltrust.org.uk. Plym Valley: Easter eggstravaganza Friday 29 March, 11am–4pm Fun trail. Child: £5. Booking essential (01752) 341377, email: plymvalley@nationaltrust.org.uk. Plym Valley: Young bird watchers Tuesday 9 April, 10am–12 noon Children 5 years plus. Meet Plym Bridge, SX524 585. Child: £5. Booking advisable (01752) 341377, email: plymvalley@nationaltrust.org.uk. Parke: Young bird watch bonanza Thursday 11 April, 10am–12 noon See 29 March. Parke Blossom Festival Saturday 4 May, 11am–3pm Plym Valley: Nightjar walk Tuesday 28 May, 9pm Meet Plym Bridge, SX524 585. Adult: £5, child: £2. Booking advisable tel: (01752) 341377, email: plymvalley@nationaltrust.org.uk. Buckland Abbey, Garden and Estate Yelverton PL20 6EY www.nationaltrust.org.uk/bucklandabbey Lace Felt workshop Saturday 16 March, 10am–5pm Phone to book: Claire (01822) 859157. Guided Abbey tours First and third Weds from 20 March, 11.15am. £2 (normal admission). Family drop-in Easter felting fun Sunday 24 March, Wednesday 3 April 11am–4pm £3 (normal admission). Easter Egg Trail Friday 29 March–Monday 1 April, 11am–4pm £2 (normal admission). Pond Dipping Saturday 6 & Sunday 7 April, 11am–12.30pm and 2–3.30pm Normal admission. Costume Day Tuesday 9 April, 11am Normal admission. Medieval Archer Thursday 11 April & Sunday 19 May 2–4pm Normal admission.

Easter egg trail Friday 29–Sunday 31 March, 11am–3pm Ages 5–12. Child: £2. Normal admission.

Den Building Saturday 13 & Sunday 14 April, 2pm Normal admission.

Vintage car rally Saturday 20 April, 11am–4.30pm Normal admission.

Sheep day Sunday 14 April, 11am–5pm Normal admission.

Vintage Motorcycle rally Saturday 18 May, 11am–4.30pm Normal admission.

80 DARTMOOR

Charcoal weekend Saturday 25–Monday 27 May, 10.30am–5.30pm Free event (normal admission; no need to book).

Dartmoor Preservation Association News Spring working party dates Sunday 3 March Conservation day at High House Waste Thursday 7 March Work day at Brimpts North Mine Saturday 9 March Gorse clearance at Raddick Hill Thursday 14 March Devonport Leat Monday 18 March Gorse clearance at Raddick Hill Thursday 21 March Work day at Brimpts North Mine Saturday 23 March Wheal Jewell Reservoir and Hill Bridge Monday 25 March Work day at Brimpt, details TBA Thursday 28 March Work day at Brimpt, details TBA Tel: (01822) 890646 or visit www. dartmoorpreservation.com and the DPA blog.

MARKET DATES Ashburton Local Produce Market 9.30am–3pm Tuesday to Saturday at Tuckers Yard Tel: (01364) 643836 Bovey Tracey Produce Market 8.30am–1.30pm, Town Square, alt. Saturdays www.boveytracey.gov.uk/events Buckfastleigh Farmers’ Market 9am–1pm Town Hall, every Thursday Tel: (01803) 762764 Chagford Flea Market 10am–1pm Jubilee Hall, every Friday Hittisleigh Market 10am–12pm, Village Hall, alt. Saturdays Lydford Produce Market 10am–12.30pm, Nicholls Hall, first Saturday Ivybridge Community Market 9.30am–2pm, Glanvilles Mill, first three Saturdays Ivybridge Country Market 8.30–11.30am, The Scout Hut, St Leonard’s Road, every Friday Manaton Market 10.30am–12.30pm Parish Hall, third Tuesday Okehampton Farmers’ Market 9am–1.30pm St James’ Chapel Square, third Saturday Tel: (01409) 221991 www.okehamptonfarmersmarket.co.uk South Tawton Local Produce and Craft Market Church House, second Saturday Tel: (01837) 840085 Tavistock Farmers’ Market 9am–1pm Bedford Square, second and fourth Saturdays www.tavistockfarmersmarket.com Tavistock Pannier Market 9am–4pm Tuesday– Saturday www.tavistockpanniermarket.co.uk Tedburn St Mary Market 10am–noon Village Hall, third Saturday Whiddon Down Produce Market Village Hall, fourth Saturday Widecombe-in-the-Moor Village Market 9.30am–3pm Church House, usually fourth Saturday www.widecombe-in-the-moor.com/market

www.dartmoormagazine.co.uk CAOB ROCK

Princetown

Former railwayman’s cottage on the edge of Princetown. Superb views across the Moor. Well equipped and sympathetically furnished. Bring your boots or bike and discover Dartmoor from the front door. 2 Bedrooms (sleeps 4 ) Parking, linen and heating included.Visit Britain 3 star self catering. Dartmoor Partnership accredited. From £300/pw. Short breaks from £50/pn Open all year

The

book cupboard

~Lustleigh~

Devon Cream Teas, Homemade Cakes

3 ﬂoors assorted books, approx. 250,000 hardbacks/paperbacks. Fiction/non-ﬁction. Something for everyone including large selection of local interest Open 7 days a week 10.30am to 4.30pm The Old Custom House, 18 The Parade, The Barbican, Plymouth PL1 2JW Tel: 01752 226311 Mob: 07713 737833 Email: barbbook@btconnect.com

David & Monika Bright Tel: 01392 851345 herpoldtbright@aol.com www.escapetoprincetown.co.uk

��

Primrose Tea Rooms Coffees & Light Lunches

Open daily!

10:30am to 5pm

Tea Garden & Dog Friendly www.primrosetearooms.co.uk

info@primrosetearooms.co.uk

Closed Wed &Thurs ‘til 2pm Please visit website or call us for seasonal opening hours

Tel: 01647 277 365

dartmoor BINDERS

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dartmoormagazine ONLY

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Langstone Manor park

● Fantastic, peaceful location with great views and direct access onto moor. ● 4 star facilities with the Langstone Bar. Evening Meals. Fresh bread and croissants. ● Camping, camping pods, static caravans & cottages available.

Follow signs off B3357 Tavistock to Princetown Road. A warm welcome awaits you from the Team at Langstone Manor.

Moortown, Tavistock PL19 9JZ 01822 613 371 www.langstone-manor.co.uk jane@langstone-manor.co.uk

5 £9(U.9 K)

magazine

The binders are available in red or dark blue, with the magazine title printed in gold lettering on the spine. Each binder holds 12 copies of the magazine, storing them neatly for easy reference. Price £9.95 (UK), £12.95 (Overseas)* to include postage and packaging *Sterling only please. Regret, no eurocheques

Send your order, together with a cheque to: Edgemoor Publishing Ltd, Dartmoor Courtyard, 3 West Street, Okehampton, Devon EX20 1HQ

CROSSWORD ANSWERS ACROSS 1 Bellows 5 Pontoon 9 Uncle 10 Designers 11 Beetle 12 A battery 14 Rusty 15 Eli 19 Egg 20 Three 22 Reindeer 24 Afford 26 Prospects 27 Cider 28 Sisters 29 Desired

DOWN 1 Blueberry 2 Lichens 3 One player 4 Side 5 Postbridge 6 Night 7 Overeat 8 Nosey 13 References 16 Artefacts 17 Be endured 18 Poisons 21 Reorder 22 Ropes 23 Duple 24 Used

DAVID OFFORD Horologist

Watch & Clock Repairs New & Seconhand Sales

5 Union Street Newton Abbot TQ12 2JX Tel & Fax 01626 364766

If you would like a last resting place in beautiful countryside overlooking Dartmoor. Phone 0164724382 and speak to Julie or Martin Chatﬁeld

www.crosswayswoodlandburials.co.uk

the last word

TONY BEARD’S

LAST WORD The ‘hole country is going to pot!

O, I don’t mean that everyone is rolling their own fags from sweetsmelling herbs and getting a high for half an hour – ‘away with the fairies!’ ‘Tis the roads I’m tellin’ about. Caw every year they’m getting worser and worser! ‘There’s a hole in my bucket dear Liza, dear Liza, Then fix it dear Henry, dear Henry fix it’ so the song says. ‘Tis time us rewrote that to read: Tony Beard – the ‘Wag from Widecombe’, and a well-known figure both on Dartmoor and across Devon – held the office of president of the Devonshire Association (founded in 1862 by William Pengelly of Torquay) from June 2008 to June 2009. For more information visit www.devonassoc.org.uk

‘There’s a hole in the roadway dear Council, dear Council, And it’s broke me suspension and yer is the bill!’ For years the ‘village lengthsman’ cracked stones and yarded them up ready for whenever a hole appeared in the old rustic tracks around the parish. They were repaired within a day or two, topped off with a bit of gravel before they got too bad, and everyone was happy. ‘A stitch in time saves nine’ the proverb says! Many rural roads are still the same old stone tracks with a bit of tar and chippings spread on top. They do not stand up to today’s heavy loads. The tarmacadam that started to appear 100 years ago, made of stones the size that would fit into a man’s mouth plus tar, was mainly used in towns and new roads, not out yer in the back o’ beyond. That is why as soon as us gets a few days’ rain the surface breaks up, revealing the old hardcore which soon ‘frets’ away leaving the wretched ‘potholes’ for us all to fall in, risking life and limb. ‘Think Bike’ signs, are everywhere these days, so why doesn’t the Council practise what it preaches? A cyclist or motorbiker don’t stand a chance if their front wheel drops into one of these potholes – straight over the handlebars. Thank goodness they mostly wear ‘crash’ helmets these days! When these holes are full of water ‘tis impossible to see how deep they

82 DARTMOOR

are. Cars, in particular those with small wheels, lose their suspension, damage their steering and mess up their wheel alignment and balancing. The repair bill can be frightening. ‘Tis penny wise pound foolish’ – another proverb – try sending the bill to the Council! The real problem is that the repairs are not done well enough. They put a few shovels of ‘tarmac’ in the hole, tap it down and off they go. When us had our local ‘council men’ they knew how to do it properly. A little liquid tar in the hole, add to that the tarmac, a little of the tar then sealed around the joints and it lasted for years. You can still find their patches now, as good as new. The rough edges left today ‘fret’ out within days and ‘tis back to square one – what a waste of money. By the way whose money is it? Yes, ‘tis our money they’m wasting! I’ve bin told that they can’t do it the old way nowadays – Health and Safety – the tar may be slippery. I ask YOU what is most dangerous: a little bit of smooth tar an inch or so wide, or a ‘bloody great hole’? Look at some of these patches when the road is dry; water seeping out from under them just waiting for our friend Jack Frost to come along and play even more havoc, and the merry cycle will start all over again. ‘Tis enough to drive ‘ee to drink – or should I say – Go To Pot! ■

The Contemporary

CraftFestival C E L E B R AT I N G 1 0 E X C E L L E N T Y E A R S !

7- 9 JUNE 2013 Mill Marsh Park, Bovey Tracey, Devon

In association with the Devon Guild of Craftsmen

Katie Almond

3 Days – buy direct from 165 of the UK’s finest designer makers workshops demonstrations children’s craft tent masterclasses live music

www.craftsatboveytracey.co.uk 01626 830612 craftfair@craftsatboveytracey.co.uk Bovey Tracey Town Council

DARTMOOR 83