Meats, Eats, Drinks & Leaves around Hampshire & the Isle of Wight
Pebble Beach, Barton-on-Sea
Pebble Beach
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“I never tire of the endless possibilities our local produce presents and I never tire of the view from my office. J’adore ma cuisine!” Pierre Chevillard, head chef
The Menu Crab & lobster cakes Grilled sea bass Raspberry tiramisu
Pierre has been a head chef for several decades and he’s still as in love with food today as he was growing up in one of France’s gastronomic centres, Le Couteau, near Lyon. Over the years he’s gained quite a fan club and held a Michelin star for more than 24 years. He cut his teeth in a one Michelin-starred restaurant before moving to the famous three starred Troisgros, in Roanne. He then came to England in 1979 and joined Chewton Glen as sous chef where he quickly took over as head chef and remained for 24 years, winning and retaining his Michelin star for the duration. Pierre blends effortlessly the traditions of French and English cuisine. He’s a stickler for detail and many of his young and now famous protégés learned patience, perseverance and technique under his careful watch.
Tanguy’s tips
Modestly, Pierre prefers his kitchen to notoriety and for him smiling diners are his highest achievement. Pierre and Pebble Beach are a match made in heaven. Relaxation and patience are in harmony here. As Pierre’s diners relax and gaze out over the West Solent and Isle of Wight, Pierre patiently concocts delightful dishes and even he never tires of the view.
Crab & lobster cakes: Chardonnay, Eric Forest, Burgundy Grilled sea bass: Nossa, Calcario, Bairrada Raspberry tiramisu: Licor de Tannat, Canelones Region, Uruguay
Full tasting notes are on page 318
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Crab & lobster cakes with potato crust, fondue of fennel and bouillabaisse jus Serves 4 200 g fresh crab, flaked 200 g lobster tail, diced 1 stick celery, diced 1 red pepper, diced 1 green pepper, diced 100 g white bread, crusts removed, diced 2 eggs 1 tbsp mayonnaise salt & pepper 2 potatoes, finely julienned oil for frying 1 mango, diced
Fennel fondue
For the crab and lobster cakes, combine the crab flakes, lobster, celery, red and green peppers, cubed bread, eggs and mayonnaise and season to taste. Form into four round cakes and cover with julienne strips of potato. Fry in hot oil on both sides and keep warm. For the fondue of fennel, slice the fennel bulbs finely and sauté in a little butter until soft. Add white wine and reduce completely, then add cream and reduce until thickened. Arrange cakes on plates and surround with portions of fennel fondue and diced mango pieces. For the jus, lightly sauté the mirpoix in butter then add the seasoning, tomato purée and spices. Pour in the Pernod and white wine and reduce to half then add fish stock and cook for thirty minutes to reduce again. Strain and finish with the lobster butter. Sprinkle the jus over the crab cakes. * See Garnishes, page 348
2 fennel bulbs butter 250 ml white wine 150 ml double cream
Bouillabaisse jus mirpoix: 1 onion, chopped; 1 carrot, chopped; 1 ½ leeks, chopped; 1 fennel bulb, sliced; 2 garlic cloves 1 tsp butter 100 ml white wine 1 tsp tomato purée 3 cloves 2 bay leaves a few saffron threads 100 ml Pernod 11/4 litres fish stock 2 tbsp lobster butter* salt & pepper
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Grilled sea bass with braised leeks & thyme Serves 4
Prepare all the components of this dish in advance of grilling the fish.
Equipment: hand blender or food processor
For the fish & thyme jus, sauté the fish bones in olive oil until lightly browned. Add the onion and stir over low heat until onion is transparent. Pour in the white wine and reduce to half. Add thyme and veal stock and reduce to half. Simmer until thickened. Strain and keep warm.
4 225 g sea bass fillets juice of 1 lemon 2 leeks, diced into 5 cm batons 1 tbsp butter 5 tbsp white wine 250 ml double cream salt & pepper
Fish & thyme jus 450 g fish bones, rinsed
Sauté the leek batons in butter until translucent then add white wine and reduce until liquid has evaporated. Pour in the double cream and simmer until the leeks are cooked and the cream is reduced. Season to taste. Season the fish fillets with salt, pepper and lemon juice and grill on both sides. Do not overcook. To serve, arrange the leeks in the centre of the plates and place the fish on top. Pour the jus around the dish and garnish with oyster mushrooms, new potatoes and crisped leek strips.
125 ml olive oil 1 onion, diced 125 ml dry white wine a sprig of thyme 250 ml veal stock
Garnish sautéed oyster mushrooms small new potatoes strips of leek, blanched, patted dry & crisped in the oven on parchment at lowest setting
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Raspberry tiramisu Serves 6 Equipment: fine chinois 340 g mascarpone 4 egg yolks 110 g granulated sugar 110 ml Kahlua 110 ml double cream, whipped 125 ml espresso 250 ml milk 250 g fresh raspberries 60 boudoir biscuits 30 g cocoa powder
Kahlua coffee sauce 600 ml single cream 30 g instant coffee 6 egg yolks 120 g caster sugar 120 ml Kahlua
Raspberry sauce 500 g fresh or frozen raspberries juice of ½ lemon
Soften the mascarpone cheese by stirring it with a fork. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar over a bain marie until thick and fluffy. Remove from heat and whisk to cool. Add the softened mascarpone cheese, half of the Kahlua and fold in the whipped cream. Mix together the remaining Kahlua, espresso and milk then draw the boudoir biscuits through this and line a 20 ml oval dish, bottom and sides, or sprinkle with the liquid after the dish has been lined. Spread a third of the mascarpone cheese over the biscuits and place a layer of moistened boudoir biscuits on top and press down lightly. Spread another layer of mascarpone on top and cover with raspberries masking them with mascarpone. Top with moistened boudoir biscuits and finish with the remaining mascarpone. Refrigerate for two hours until set. Sprinkle with cocoa powder and cut into wedges. Decorate with chocolate sticks and serve with Kahlua coffee sauce and raspberry sauce. For the Kahlua coffee sauce, bring the cream and instant coffee to the boil. Whisk together the egg yolks and caster sugar. Pour the boiling cream onto the egg yolks whisking all the time. Return mixture to a rinsed-out saucepan and cook gently for a few minutes stirring constantly until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. (Cautious cooks would use a bain marie but providing you do not allow the mixture to boil there is no need.) Remove from heat and add the Kahlua liqueur. For the raspberry sauce, purĂŠe the raspberries in a blender, add the lemon juice and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Pass through a fine sieve and refrigerate until ready to use.
100 g caster sugar chocolate sticks for decoration
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Revises 11/07/2014 15:17 Page 11
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Sopley Farm near Christchurch Dan Tanner, owner & Near Christchurch Rob Cox, farm manager Dan Tanner, owner & Rob Cox, farm manager
As fresh as it gets Hanging onto the very edge of the southwest corner of the New Forest, Sopley Farm has been growing over twenty varieties of soft fruit and vegetables for over thirty years. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fabulous place where the energetic can pick their own seasonal produce including: strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, tayberries, gooseberries, blackcurrants, redcurrants, plums, runner beans, broad beans and pumpkins and for the less energetic, a simple stroll into the farm shop delivers a cornucopia of asparagus, rhubarb, courgette, marrow, potatoes, garlic, sweetcorn and varieties of squash. Everyone on the farm gets a real buzz from watching families charging DERXW WKH SODFH OHDUQLQJ Ă&#x20AC;UVW KDQG ZKHUH WKH IRRG WKH\ normally buy in cellophane bags comes from but if you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make the drive down, their fruit and veg can also be found at most markets across the South. Rob Cox has been managing the Sopley Farm for the past three years. A native of Cornwall, he brings with him boundless energy and creativity. Walking through WKH Ă&#x20AC;HOGV WKH YLWDOLW\ RI WKH SODFH LV SDOSDEOH <RX FDQ almost hear the plants singing as they bask in their rich New Forest soil and slightly salt-tinged air. The varieties of plants that Rob selects are chosen for WKHLU Ă DYRXU QRW VKHOI OLIH 7KH IRFXV LV RQ JURZLQJ fruit and veg thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tastier than anywhere else by limiting the volume of each crop so they can spend more time caring for it. For Rob, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;freshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a word on a package in a supermarket, its picking something and popping it in your mouth. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not unusual for customers, chefs and retailers alike, to have to wait a few minutes while their produce comes in from the Ă&#x20AC;HOG 7KH\ NQRZ LWV ZRUWK LW DQG WKLV LV D VWDQGRXW reason why fruit & veg suppliers throughout the world favour Sopley Farm produce.
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Poached duck egg in pastry & Sopley Farm asparagus with dry sherry & morel sauce
Serves 4 4 duck eggs 4 puff pastry cases 8 cm square & 3 mm thick 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten a splash of milk 24 Sopley Farm asparagus, cooked for 5 minutes 200 g fresh morel mushrooms 30 g shallots, finely chopped 60 g butter 100 ml dry sherry 100 ml chicken stock 200 ml double cream 4 tbsp white wine vinegar 10 sprigs of chive
For the puff pastry, preheat oven to 170°C. Place the pastry cases on a baking tray, egg wash with egg yolk and a dash of milk and bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Keep warm. For the sauce, heat a pan with 40 g butter, add the shallot and morels and sweat for 3 minutes then add the dry sherry and reduce until completely evaporated. Add the chicken stock and reduce by half then add the cream. Season to taste and cook gently until the sauce coats the back of a spoon and set aside. For the asparagus preheat oven to grill. Melt the rest of the butter and cut each asparagus tip to 1 inch long, place on a baking tray and brush with the melted butter and gently warm under the grill. Thinly slice the remaining asparagus and add to the sauce. For the poached duck eggs, bring a medium-sized pan of water to the boil, add 4 tbsp of vinegar, break each duck egg into a cup then carefully pour each into the simmering water and poach for 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep hot. To serve, open the pastry case and create a cavity, put 2 spoons of sauce inside, then place the asparagus tips around the edge of the case, wedge the egg in the middle and sprinkle with chives. Pour the remaining sauce around and serve.
Tanguyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tip Poached duck egg: White Rioja, Spain
Full tasting notes are on page 318 M e at s , e at s , D r i n k s & l e av e s
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