Simply Sewing issue 72

EA MAXISYD-SEW RESS

ISSUE SEVENTY TWO

UK'S NUMBER 1 SEWING MAG! E

MONKEY TOY PATT ERN

FRESH IDEAS AS WITH WITHFAB FABRIC

JOHN SCOTT NEW COLUMN!

NEW PATTERN!

MAKE IT FOR

cat-loverS 6 gifts to sew in

Exclusive THE APRON SET KID'S+ADULT

an afternoon

EXPERT GUIDES

ISSUE 72

PRINTED IN THE UK • £7.99

✓ Sewing with linen ✓ Blind hemming ✓ Starter patchwork

BONUS PATTERN! STAPLE TEE

20 summer projects to boost your sewing confidence

*T&Cs apply

+MAKE: Stool cushion Camera strap Rope bag Girl's top Maxi dress

IDEAS

INSPIRATION

ACCESSORIES

WEBSITES

EVENTS

STUFF

SEWING SEREN

There's a Seren dress for every mood and occasion! Whichever variation you choose to make, it's a floaty and flattering dress that's sure to become a summer favourite that everyone asks you about. We LOVE it in this sunshine yellow with a flounce neckline, but check out ten design hacks on the Tilly and the Buttons blog to find your perfect version. tillyandthebuttons.com

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Pinboard

the pattern edit Swimsuits

Here's some of our favourite swimsuit patterns for pool days, says Production Editor Emily BOMBSHELL SWIMSUIT, CLOSET CASE PATTERNS The Bombshell is a flattering swimsuit inspired by the classic 1950s silhouette. You can choose a one-piece or make a high-waist bottom to pair with your favourite bikini top. We love the skirted front on this too which makes it modest and unique.

Available in sizes 0–20 from closetcasepatterns.com

mini profile LEILA KELLEHER Leila Kelleher is the pattern-maker behind the plus-size indie pattern company, Muna and Broad. Leila learned to sew from her mum while growing up in Sydney, Australia and eventually went to college to study custom fashion production. After college, she worked sewing for film and theatre, as well as in fashion, sewing high-end custom garments and samples.

After a few years in the industry, however, Leila decided she wanted a career change and focused her energy on a classical music career, leaving fashion and sewing behind. Her career brought her to the USA and then to Canada, and during this time she didn’t even own a sewing machine! When her two children were babies, Leila bought a sewing machine and began sewing garments and baby supplies (including reusable wipes and cloth nappies), but didn’t sew for herself. With two young children, she realised another career change was in order and studied a PhD in Biomechanics. Leila now works as a professor at a large college in Toronto, Canada.

Leila’s style is minimalist and architectural, and is influenced by the slow fashion movement. Frustrated with the plus-size ready-to-wear garments, Leila decided to begin sewing for herself, however she quickly realised how few sewing patterns were available in her size from both mainstream and indie pattern companies, let alone patterns in the styles she wanted to wear.

To solve her problem, she began making patterns for herself, drawing on her professional training as a pattern-maker and her understanding of anatomy and human movement as a biomechanist.

In 2019, she partnered with fellow Aussie, Jess of @fat.bobbin.girl to launch Muna and Broad. Muna and Broad offers plus-size PDF sewing patterns with a clean, modern style.

The patterns are drafted to take into account the shape and characteristics of large bodies as they move. Since the patterns are drafted specifically for plus sizes, features such as plackets, collars, panels, and pockets are designed proportionally.

Leila has developed a grading process that effectively creates a new block every few sizes. This means that as the sizes diverge from their sample, their patterns will continue to fit the body properly. Muna and Broad patterns typically fit 'straight out of the packet' and require few, if any, alterations. If a sewist’s measurements are larger than their standard sizing, Leila will grade up their patterns at no extra cost.

Leila believes that every body is worthy of a beautiful, handmade wardrobe and that body size should not dictate what you choose wear. She sews exclusively with sustainable fibres such as linen, silk, wool, rayon, lyocell, and viscose in her home studio in Ontario, Canada.

Leila posts her makes on Instagram as @leila_sews. Her business partner Jess offers sewing resources and patterns at broadintheseams.com, and the pair's pattern company, Muna and Broad, can be found at munaandbroad.com. Follow them on Instagram @munaandbroad for the latest releases and call outs for pattern testers.

IPSWICH SWIMSUIT, CASHMERETTE The Ipswich is a fun and supportive swimsuit that can be made as a one-piece, a high-waisted bikini, or a tankini. You can opt for an underwired foam swim bra too for ultimate comfort.

PDF pattern available in sizes 12–32 and paper pattern in sizes 12–28 from cashmerette.com LOLA SWIMSUIT, LAELA JEYNE PATTERNS Laela Jeyne has a fab range of unique swimsuits – check out the lacy Lea – but we love the Lola for its ruched waist and stylish criss-cross tie back. It can be made with or without the skirt, and there's a handy video tutorial too to help you add a supportive bra to your swimsuit. Available in sizes 00–30 from laelajeynepatterns.com SEABRIGHT SWIMMER, FRIDAY PATTERN COMPANY The Seabright Swimmer is a glamorous stand out one-piece. It can be made with or without sleeves and both versions feature a plunging neckline and gathering at the sleeves and waist.

Available in sizes XS–4X from friday patterncompany.com

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THIS MONTH...

linen look Soft, crisp, natural linen is cool, easy to use, and drapes beautifully. Get to grips with this organic fabric using our top tips and tricks.

Written by Sophie Tarrant

SUMMER STYLE Lightweight fabrics will create the perfect summer outfit.

GATHER UP Elastic gathers at the cuffs, neck, and waistline make for a comfortable fit.

PERFECT DRAPE This flowing design is great for soft fabrics like linen.

AVENIR

The Avenir Jumpsuit from Friday Pattern Company is a simple-to-make, woven design that can be sewn up in an afternoon. With billowy sleeves and wide legs, it's ideal for soft linens, with elastic gathers at the waist for a comfortable, easy fit. fridaypatterncompany.com

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PATTERN INSPIRATION

FABRIC INSPIRATION

Stay cool this summer with our favourite linen-ready patterns – including dresses, jumpsuits, shorts, skirts and more.

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Whether you like a subtle or bold print, these fabrics would be perfect for our fave linen patterns.

1 We love illustrator Meenal Patel's organic cotton/linen Plant Peeps collection for Cloud 9 Fabrics. cloud9fabrics.com 2 This woven jacquard linen from Fabric Godmother would be ideal for soft jackets or robes. fabricgodmother.co.uk 3 Ruby Star Society's Stellar collection features gorgeous linen canvases, such as Space Junk in Peach. thefabricfox.co.uk 4 The sweet little hearts on this woven Digi Linen fabric would be perfect for a cute date night outfit. croftmill.co.uk 5 The Echino range for Kokka Japan are reknowned for their gorgeous designs, which include this Pink Floral Foxes linen canvas. littlestitchersews.etsy.com

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1 DEMETER DRESS

The Demeter Dress and Top pattern from Anna Allen features four different designs, all of which look fantastic made up in soft, crisp linen. All views pull over the head with no closures, and offer details including short setin sleeves, bust darts, an empire waistline, and cropped tops. annaallenclothing.com 2 JEDEDIAH TROUSERS

The Jedediah pattern from Thread Theory can be used to create chino-style trousers or shorts from a wide range of fabrics, including a lightweight linen option. The design features top-stitched belt loops, flat fell inseams, back patch pockets with customisable decorative stitching, and large front pockets. threadtheory.ca 3 BROOKE SHORTS

This fun design from K Dornbier Designs features a paperbag waist and the option of 7/8th length trousers or shorts. Box pleats in the front add a classic, professional touch and complement the matching tie-belt. kdornbierdesigns.etsy.com

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This dress pattern from Made By Rae features a scoop neckline, pockets, and shirring in the back for an easy, comfortable fit. No zips or closures are needed, making this the ideal project for beginners. An add-on pack with additional design elements is also available. made-by-rae.com

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5 THEA SHIRT

The boho-style Thea Shirt from Liberty is a fresh twist on a vintage classic. The shirt features a button-down front with pretty delicate gathered shoulders and the choice of several dramatic sleeve options, including ruffled and puffed sleeves. liberty.co.uk

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6 LYDIA SKIRT KIT

This kit from Cut Couture includes everything you need to create a gorgeous pure white linen skirt, ready for dyeing whatever colour you like. The design is tailored to the waist with a wrap tie and extension to fit all sizes. cutcouturekit.com

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COVER STAR

aPRON dress set Make matching Apron Dresses for you and your little one with this playful pattern from Kirsty Hartley.

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THE STRIP TEE

MadeIt Patterns' Strip Tee is your comfy fave with a colourful surprise!

We'll be making more than one...

MADEIT PATTERNS

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* GIFTS MAY VARY ACCORDING TO TERRITORY. NOT AVAILABLE ON NEWSSTAND OVERSEAS.

cat-themed gifts

the cat's whiskers Cat lovers rejoice! Jessica Swift has designed the ultimate fabric to add a feline-theme to all your essentials: the Oh Meow range for AGF. Designer: JESSICA ENTWISTLE Styling: LISA JONES Photography: PHILLIP SOWELS

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travel mug cosy

Coffee to go? This cute travel mug cosy will protect your hands when you're carrying hot drinks on the move. We got our Cookie the Cat bamboo travel mug from Rex London (rexlondon.com) – isn't it perfect for this fabric?

LuNCH BAG

Whether you're off for a picnic or making a packed lunch for school, an insulated bag is essential for keeping your favourite foods cool and tasty. Now you can pack for lunch on-the-go with a bag that shows off your favourite animal.

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window shopping

W love We l this thi stylish t li h rope b bag from f Debbie Wainhouse. It's an on-trend make that you can sew up in no time.

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duvet dress

The fabric for your dream dress could be hiding in your linen closet! Transform a duvet cover into a maxi with Karoline Hughes.

NO PATTERN NEEDED!

✂

CLOTHING FOR ALL Bored of the same old patterns, and struggling to find designs that really speak to you and your personal aesthetic? If you’re after fashionable, gender-neutral designs to sew yourself, rejoice! The sewing world is right behind you.

Written by Sarah Dawson

A GOOD READ

Both versions of the classic Albion duffle-style coat from Collette Patterns are unisex

all makers, regardless of gender, age, size or ability.”

Wendy's book features patterns for classic, unisex/gender-free everyday pieces, that make up the core of everybody’s wardrobe – and believe us when we say you’ll want to sew them all! “I’m not really into the prescriptive approach to dressing based on which styles work on which body shape,” she says. “I think today’s makers have moved beyond that approach, which started in the ‘40s and ‘50s and was still prevalent in the ‘80s. To me, making your own clothes is such an empowering and defiant act, that I really encourage everyone to make whatever style they want, as long as you know you’re going to wear it. The patterns in the book are loose fitting, without any dart shaping, but there are instructions on how to add darts and do full bust adjustments if you like.”

One thing Wendy is keen to get across through this book is that it doesn’t need to be challenging to sew your own genderneutral designs: “It’s no different to sewing any other kind of clothing. Just choose the right fabric for the pattern, choose the very best quality fabric you can afford, choose a pattern style and fabric colour or print you want to wear and ask yourself if the garments you’re planning to make will fit with the rest of your wardrobe and will it be something you reach for again and again. You’re going to spend a lot of time (and often a lot of money) making it, so you want to wear it more than a handful of times!” she shares.

Sewing Basics for Every Body has obviously

Elbe Textiles' Cornell shirt is gender neutral and designed to be worn by all bodies

Wendy's book features gender-free basics such as this denim boiler suit

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Image taken from Sewing Basics for Every Body. Photo by Julia Ward

Main image: Photo by Anne Valeur, melilot.no

M

aking and sewing your own clothes is the ultimate way of creating something that fits you perfectly – both your body shape and personality. But when it comes to tracking down the right patterns to reflect your style, sometimes you might be left feeling a little underwhelmed or unrepresented, especially if you identify as transgender or non-binary, or simply prefer a more androgynous aesthetic. Thankfully, pattern companies have started to sit up and take notice, expanding their range of designs to reflect this. Stylish, gender-neutral patterns provide a cool, ‘clothes for all’ appeal, and there’s something for every level of sewist, from simple T-shirts for beginners, right up to the more challenging designs of jackets and coats.

Designer, writer, teacher, and maker, Wendy Ward (www.wendyward.co.uk), released her book Sewing Basics for Every Body (£12.99, published by CICO Books) earlier this year. “I’ve always loved to sew good quality basics that I know will get lots of wear,” she explains. “My teaching experience tells me that a big reason people start to sew is that they can’t find the right clothes for them when they go clothes shopping and feel alienated by that. I really wanted to write a book that celebrated the individual and encouraged readers to feel empowered by making their own clothes, in their own style, to fit their own body. The joy of good quality, handmade clothes is something that I believe can be achieved by

cool kids

THRIFTY MAKES

This upcycle from Debbie Wainhouse marks the end of throwing out old shirts – the little ones will love it!

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shape up

Settle down with some therapeutic embroidery and make this colourful geo wall art from Anna Alicia.

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my favourite thing

one of a kind

The bomber jacket that made Sewing Bee's Pete Cant take the leap into the world of garment construction.

"It’s not the construction of this garment that makes it my favourite, in truth it has a slew of mistakes, but it's what it represents that makes it so special to me. It’s the first time I had the nerve to go 'off-piste’, the first time I felt confident enough to ignore instructions and discover the mind-bending world of garment construction.

Flash back to 2016, I struck upon the perfect project for a few metres of stunning green filigree I’d had hiding in my stash for a while.

A bomber jacket! With a lining not included in the pattern. And different pockets. And new shoulders… trials and toiles, mistakes and meltdowns, helpless in a haberdashery.

Construction was underway.

The finished jacket is far from perfect, but I still wear it quite often. It always attracts

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attention and I always get to use our favourite line, 'Thanks, I made it myself'. (BOOM. Mic drop!)

It has been with me to Norway, Denmark, and Boston. It has been left on the sticky bar floors, it has been coveted by fashion students and grandmothers, it has been repaired after a tragic and bizarre dry cleaning accident (don’t ask…), and it was the very first thing I put on Instagram.

I’m fully aware my style isn’t for everyone and this jacket represents that in spades, another reason I adore it. If you love it or hate it I’ll keep wearing it, probably with oversized plastic jewellery, and every time I look in the mirror before I leave the house I’ll smile, remembering where it came from and where it’s been. Then I’ll chuckle thinking about where it's going next!"

Find Pete on Instagram @cant.p

S The Tunic Dress Girl's party dress Advent calendar Colourblock tote Rainbow embroidery Diamond quilt Owl plushie toy Simple scarf and more...

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✓ tunic dress ✓ girl's dress ✓ tote bag

GIFTS

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ON SALE THURSDAY 3 SEP

* CONTENTS AND GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND MAY VARY ACCORDING TO TERRITORY. PAPER, FABRIC AND TOOL GIFTS NOT AVAILABLE WITH DIGITAL EDITIONS.

Tunic dress: Pattern: Janet Palmer; Photos: Beth Crutchfield; Styling: Helen Johnson; Hair & make-up: Anna Durston; Model: Daisy Pettinger

WORTH £26.97