Simply Sewing issue 74

MA TOP +KDE RA ESS

ISSUE SEVENTY FOUR

SEW FOR CHRISTMAS

UK'S NUMBER 1 SEWING MAG! AG!

FRESH IDEAS EAS WITH WITHFA FABRIC

+SOFT TOY PATTERN

NEW + EXCLUSIVE!

Polly Top PATTERN SET

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IN SIZES 8-22

fami l y makes to sew for christmas!

LEARN HOW 5 NEW LOOKS TO SEW TODAY!

ISSUE 74

PRINTED IN THE UK • £8.99

❉ Smocking ❉ Buttonholes ❉ Rolled hems

*T&Cs apply

Transform your home and wardrobe with playful designs

INSIDE: Patchwork coasters Sew a collar Felt slippers John Scott column

IDEAS

INSPIRATION

ACCESSORIES

WEBSITES

EVENTS

STUFF

SHIRRED SOFIA

The gorgeous Sofia is the latest release from Victory Patterns. There are three variations to make, including two tops and a dress, and each has three sleeve options – we love a pattern with so much choice! Even more exciting, the Sofia is the first pattern to be released in their new size range and is available in sizes 0–18 and 14–30. Find it at victorypatterns.com

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Pinboard

the pattern edit Zero Waste

Embrace sustainable style with these zero-waste patterns, says Production Editor Emily Freer MAYNARD DRESS, ELBE TEXTILES The Maynard Dress is proof that eco-conscious sewing doesn't mean having to compromise on style. This contemporary relaxed-fit wrap dress with tie closures is available in sizes A–I, elbetextiles.com/au

mini profile CHRISTINE LEECH The first sewing memory Christine has is hand sewing the hem on a small white handkerchief with her nanny when she was about 5 years old. The handkerchief was an entry into the local Flower and Produce show and went on to win first prize. That was the point that Christine became hooked on sewing and making things. “I loved sewing and making projects when I wasa child.

I won a book on making soft toys when I was at junior school and I think I made pretty much every project in that book."

“I was always encouraged to make my own clothes when I was at school, and when I was at college I was always being asked by my friends to make them clothes. There was a trend for mini skirts which was perfect for student purses as you could easily make a skirt from half a metre of fabric. Our favourite was Habitat checked upholstery fabric for some reason, and teddy bear fur for hats. It was a great look!”

Fast forward several years and Christine is now a successful author, maker, and workshop host and has just published her tenth book: Zero Waste Gift Wrap. “I’m so excited about this new book as it is the start of a series on a subject that is really close to my heart. I’ve always been thrifty with my makes, trying to repurpose fabric and upcycle clothes where possible and this book is all about replacing glittery papers and sticky tape with creative and innovative

wrapping ideas, making everlasting solutions to lessen the amount of waste there is on our planet.” The book is divided into two with half the book being dedicated to Furoshiki – the Japanese art of using fabric squares to wrap gifts and using knots to secure them. “You can use vintage scarves or cut up old dresses and shirts to make the wraps,” says Christine.

“Not only does the recipient get a lovely gift they also get the extra bonus gift of a pretty scarf – although I have been known to ask for the scarf back if it's one of my favourites!” The second half of the book is full of different projects to make a variety of gift bags and present toppers from upcycled clothing. “I had to write the whole book during lockdown so I ended up cutting up a lot of my own wardrobe and sent a request around my street for my neighbour's old clothes. Necessity is the mother of invention, as they say, and I certainly came up with some projects that I would never have had thought of if I had had access to my normal fabric shops! My favourite projects are the Odd Sock Crackers which are perfect for small gifts, and the Pyjama Leg gift bags. There's also no-sew T-shirt yarn tassels and fabric pom-poms which make great present toppers.”

Christine is currently working on ideas for the next two books, Zero Waste Kitchen and Zero Waste Christmas with upcycler extraordinaire Emma Friedlander-Collins (@steelandstitch).

Zero Waste Gift Wrap is out now with David & Charles publishing for £9.99. Take a look at Christine's website, sewyeahsocialclub.com, and her Instagram page, @sewyeah, where you can see her latest makes and craft kits.

ZERO-WASTE 006 ADONIS DRESS, MILAN AV-JC The Adonis Dress is a jigsaw-style pdf pattern designed to optimise fabric consumption. The gorgeous midi dress features a tie-front and a slit back. Best of all, this is available for free download as long as Milan AV-JC is credited if you share or modify the pattern. Check out Mylène's other zero-waste patterns, too.

Available in sizes 34–48, milanavjc. com GATHER DRESS, BIRGITTA HELMERSSON The oversized Gather Dress is drawn straight on to your fabric, minimising printing and making it super easy to customise. Modelled and made here by Emily Jones (@ emilynatsai). Available in sizes 8–26, birgittahelmersson.com DORIANNE PLEATED DRESS, SOMA PATTERNS This vintage-inspired pleated dress and tunic pattern is a glamorous eco-friendly choice. Both versions are flatteringly fitted and have a wide shawl collar and off-shoulder armhole. See more zero-waste patterns on SomaPatterns' Etsy. Available in XS– XL, SomaPatterns. etsy.com

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COVER STAR

THE polly top

Grab your comfiest cottons and get started on Fiona Hesford's Polly Top. With plenty of techniques involved, it's a great skills-booster.

THIS MONTH...

Taking Shape

This month we take a closer look at ways to create shape, structure, and form using just fabric and thread – it's easier than you think.

Written by Sophie Tarrant

SHIRRED BODICE The detailed bodice not only looks great but is comfortable, too

TIERED UP This multi-tiered skirt features delicate gathers for a floaty feel

SIMPLICITY 9141

This feminine design from Simplicity features an all-over shirred bodice design that will hug your curves for a comfortable fit. The tiered skirt features gathers for shaping and can be made in mid-calf or mini lengths to suit your mood, and two tie-finish strap details add a fun final touch. sewdirect.com

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IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS Secure the design with tie-finish shoulder straps

PATTERN INSPIRATION Lots of patterns use shirring, smocking, and ruched details to give your garments shape – here's a few of our current favourites.

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GO VINTAGE 6 1 6316 HAREM PANTS, BURDA STYLE

These loose-fitting harem pants feature a wide waistband panel with shirred detail, as well as tapered draped legs in two lengths. The pattern also includes options for handy patch pockets and a tie belt made of trim. These are a go-to for holidays or days when you're wanting something comfy. sewdirect.com

4 8636 DRESS AND TOP

This chic design by Cynthia Rowley features both an oversized dress and a loose-fitting top, with ruffled tiers and a shirred neckline to give the garments shape and add interest.

Lightweight fabrics with some drape are perfect for this pattern. sewdirect.com 5 PSEUDO SMOCK ROMPER

2 M7901

This pretty top from McCall's includes four different design options, featuring a variety of different sleeve lengths and styles. Each one also includes a comfortable shirred waistline, drawing the silhouette in for a flattering cut. sewdirect.com 3 OPAL TROUSERS AND SHORTS

This design features a relaxed high-waisted set with mix and match options. Choose from a gathered paperbag or standard elastic waistband, in-seam or patch pockets, back pockets, belt loops, an optional belt, and multiple lengths. These can also be tapered or worn wide. megannielsen.com

This cute romper for boys and girls will keep them cool and comfy. It features an easy fakesmocked front and can be made with either a gathered or pleated front. There's a choice of three one-piece leg lengths, too. This is available in children's sizes newborn to three years. tadahpatterns.etsy.com

Smocking certainly is an age-old technique. Primitive examples can be seen as far back as 1175 BC. Smocking gained popularity in the late 17th century, with smocked gowns becoming a popular clothing item for people across Britain. Nowadays it's dropped out of mainstream fashion for the most part, instead being featured in high-end couture garments and, of course, those that are handmade.

However, vintage smocking guides – called design plates – can still be found in second-hand shops and online, giving you access to those same antique patterns. We adore this Roses All Around plate by Trudy Horne which was originally published in Creative Needle Magazine in1998. It can now be found at trudyhorne.etsy.com

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The Polaris top from French Poetry is inspired by a vintage cut from the 1940s. The elegant top features a cute off-the-shoulder neckline with a gathered edge, as well as comfortable puff sleeves with elasticated cuffs. There's also the option to add a bow to the front. frenchpoetry.com

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christmas time

home-made holiday

Gather your favourite festive fabrics and get started on these makes for an extra special Christmas. We made ours in Lewis & Irene's Christmas Tree range.

Designer: REBECCA REID Styling: LISA JONES Photography: PHILLIP SOWELS

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FABRIC CHAIN GARLAND

A simple but effective way of bringing a little bit of festive joy to each room. And unlike traditional paper chains, you can pack these away knowing they'll survive the storage!

These will be around for many Christmases to come.

CHRISTMAS TREE CUSHION

There's no such thing as too many pom-poms, so this cushion with its snowball trim makes all our Christmas wishes come true! We love the playful use of different fabrics for the Christmas trees on this, too.

NO PATTERN NEEDED!

✂

seasonal essential Make a stylish button-up skirt with this guide from Portia Lawrie – no pattern required!

A HELPING HAND Meet the remarkable crafters coming together for great causes.

Written by Rachel Avery

A GOOD READ Portia Lawrie (below) and Samantha Claridge (right) have collaborated to launch a brandnew charity venture, Change Maker.

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rom Berkshire to Skelmersdale to the City of London, there’s a whole lot of good going on across the UK. These amazing people are working hard to give back to those in need, and we thought it was only right to share their incredible stories. From making a difference during the Covid-19 pandemic to making big plans for social enterprise, get ready to feel utterly inspired...

CHANGE MAKER From local store to successful online brand, 16 years of hard work have paid off for Samantha of Samantha Claridge Studio (samanthaclaridgestudio.com). She uses her own experience and expertise to stock her shop full of tried and tested goodies, everything from the scissors that work perfectly every time down to quality fabric sourced from all over the world.

But she wouldn’t be where she is today without the dedication of her own mum. Her mother Judith, a West End costumier, introduced Samantha to the world of crafting from a young age and has been by her side ever since. Speaking about her mum, Samantha says: “She is the glue that holds everything together for me to be able to do what I love. If you have ever bought anything from me, it is my mum that packs it up and ships it out with that cute little hand-written thank you on every delivery note.”

While Portia Lawrie’s sewing journey didn’t begin until 2009 when she was gifted an old sewing machine, hers too has been a tale of paralleled success. Her online platform Makery (makery.co.uk) is home to step-bystep sewing and DIY craft tutorials, essential tips, and tonnes of amazing crafty inspiration.

Portia is the woman behind the global movement ‘The Refashioners’ - established to

celebrate refashioning old clothes. Each year the community is challenged to revamp a certain item of clothing and previously the glorious winner, along with their amazing creation, has been showcased on Makery.

In 2015, the tragic fire at Grenfell Tower in London inspired Portia to do something. “I’m a helper and a fixer. When I see something wrong, I feel compelled to try and help.

I always want to fix it,” says Portia. Launching Makers for Grenfell (@makersforgrenfell) in just a few weeks, Portia and the community had raised £5,000 for charities helping the

"I'm a helper and a fixer. when I see something wrong, I feel compelled to help."

on a new charity venture. The Change Maker is about “the power of the maker community to make change.”

With 100% of the profits going to charity, the Change Maker product range has commenced with a super-cute pin badge.

Samantha says: “As makers, we have the ability to imagine something and make it real. As a community, that power is multiplied. The Change Maker pin is the first in a line of products aimed at reflecting and harnessing the power of makers and making to promote positive change in society through community fundraising.” The pins have proved hugely popular so far, and the first batch completely sold out in just 48 hours! A different charity is selected each

victims of the fire. She set up the hashtag #destashforgrenfell to encourage people to sell their unwanted craft supplies to raise money and she also asked for gifts from sewing companies to set up a charity raffle.

Samantha Claridge was one of the lovely people to provide a prize, which is where you could say the seeds were sewn for a collaborative relationship in the future.

Spurred on by the success of Makers for Grenfell, Portia wanted to do more for charitable causes and so she reached out to Samantha again – as often happens within the sewing community, despite working so closely together, her and Samantha have only actually ever met in person once! But their virtual friendship grew and luckily Samantha was thrilled to come on board with the project and together they embarked

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autumn fairy Let them unleash their inner flower fairy with this leaf skirt from Anna Alicia, it's perfect for dressing-up and playtime!

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pipsqueak Sew a small whiskered friend with this fluffy mouse toy from Lucy Ward, and dress her up with a pretty skirt.

my favourite thing

all the trimmings Sewing Bee's Nicole Akong used this gorgeous Frida Kahlo fabric to make something that's authentically her.

"A huge part of the reason why I love sewing so much is that it gives me the means to create unique items of clothing that so completely reflect my style and personality that I feel 100% ‘me’ when I wear them.

This Frida jacket is one of my recent makes that makes me feel a million dollars; it’s such a true expression of me. I drafted the pattern based on a traditional Japanese hanten – I love the simple, slightly oversized silhouettes of Japanese clothing. I absolutely love ethnic prints and the outer cotton fabric I used for the jacket has a beautiful Frida Kahlo print which I fell in love with straight away. However, it is fairly lightweight fabric and I wanted the jacket to be warm enough for the autumn and early winter months, so I quilted it using a natural

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bamboo wadding and rows of gold stitching.

I lined the jacket with this luxurious gold Indian silk, which gives it such an opulent feel.

I’ve also got a real weakness for trims, and I work them in whenever I can throughout my sewing. And this jacket is no exception. It has black piping around the collar, cuffs, and welt pockets; black velvet and gold fringe trim across the bottom hem; and my favourite bit has to be the little rows of tassels I added to the neckband to break up the pattern so it wasn’t too homogenous. I love using my jewellerymaking skills to add a bit of extra oomph to my clothing designs! It makes this jacket even more special to me and I absolutely adore it."

See this garment come together on Nicole's fashion house Instagram @houseofakong

S Party dress trio Belted waistcoat Gold-base tote bag Peplum top refashion Christmas table set Embroidered decs Child's sweatshirt Penguin plushie and more...

Dress pattern - party set

+ Kid's pattern - sweatshirt

PATTERNS

WORTH £26.97

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ON SALE THURSDAY 29 OCT

* CONTENTS AND GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND MAY VARY ACCORDING TO TERRITORY. PAPER, FABRIC AND TOOL GIFTS NOT AVAILABLE WITH DIGITAL EDITIONS.

Toy pattern - deer plushie