Simply Sewing issue 73

GIRL'S DR ESS SEW FOR CHRISTMAS

ISSUE SEVENTY THREE

UK'S NUMBER 1 SEWING MAG!!

FRESH IDEAS S WITH WITHFA FABRIC

OWL TOY PATTERN

NEW PATTERN!

3-imixnand-1 match dressto suit your style

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IN SIZES 10-20

7 QUICK-SEW NEW LOOKS

ISSUE 73

PRINTED IN THE UK • £8.99

Get sewing your advent calendar and bunting set

Exclusive TUNIC DRESS

12 wardrobe updates to ease your seasonal transition

*T&Cs apply

NEW! Refashion a shirt Sew on a collar Make a purse John Scott column

IDEAS

INSPIRATION

ACCESSORIES

WEBSITES

EVENTS

STUFF

BOLD & BEAUTIFUL

This embroidered tulle duster immediately caught our attention on Instagram, and a visit to Terrance Williams Designs quickly proved that the other creations are no less captivating! Terrance Williams is a self-taught sewist whose designs are focused on inclusivity, individuality, and sustainability. Check out the gorgeous kaftans and dusters at terrancewilliamsdesigns.com

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Pinboard

the pattern edit Vintage Glam We love these patterns that give a nod to fashion of the past, says Production Editor Emily

mini profile MICHAEL GARDNER "I cannot remember a time where creativity was not present in my life. As a kid, I used my imagination and creativity to express the emotions and experiences that I was not capable of putting into words. Throughout the years, I have tried so many crafts and DIY projects to continue in my greatest form of expression. In 2014, on a journey to challenge myself and establish a bonding experience with my daughter, I began my sewing journey.

Daddy Dressed Me began as an apparatus to teach Ava self-love, confidence, and to establish her self-esteem.

"I am a self-taught sewist. The idea of sewing sparked my interest after seeing my sister create clothing and suddenly I believed I could do it too. I began watching sewing tutorials on YouTube, picture tutorials on Pinterest, learned the lingo and just went for it. Before I learned about fabrics, I thrifted inexpensive women’s clothing and upcycled it into pieces for Ava. Through trial and error, I learned so much. I treated sewing like a college course, I did a lot of research but ultimately the best experience was getting behind the machine and just creating.

"I started with self-drafting pieces, that is still my preferred style of creating. I like to use tops, dresses, and pants that fit Ava to create patterns for new designs. I had a fear of sewing patterns, however I overcame that obstacle last year by sewing my first dress with a pattern. It was a rewarding experience and

now I am comfortable with using a pattern occasionally. I believe that I have a gift, I can see some items and mentally break down how it was constructed. I like to cut into the fabric and just sew, it feels amazing to have an idea in my mind and having it become a tangible item that can be worn.

"My daughter inspires me. I call her my Muse! The energy, attitude, confidence, and love she displays pushes me to be and do my very best. Ava and I share a very special daddy-daughter relationship. We have been inseparable since she was born. I am so proud of the journey we have had together and all the support and love we receive on social media. I really enjoy sharing my experience as a father and many of our followers, I like to call them our family, have watched Ava grow up over the last few years.

"Daddy Dressed Me is a labour of love and a representation of a father's love for his daughter. I also love to do Ava’s hair, give her manicures and pedicures, and we go on daddy-daughter dates. I am pretty much a full-service salon and styling expert for this very special client, my daughter. We have expanded to doing TikTok videos of us acting and dancing that has brought so much joy and happiness to our bond. I have so many goals for Daddy Dressed Me and I plan to make sure I achieve them all. I plan to write a book, establish a YouTube channel, and possibly one day do a podcast as well.

I love telling our story. Through the experience of teaching Ava about confidence, self-love, and having high self-esteem I was able to establish the same for myself. I love being a Dad!" Follow @daddydressedmebymg on Instagram to see more of Michael and Ava.

BELVEDERE WAISTCOAT, THREAD THEORY The Belvedere is such a classic piece and one that will completely transform an outfit. There are two variations available, so you can decide to make a quick and easy waistcoat or go all out with welt pockets, a canvased front, and side seam vents. Available in size XS–4XL, threadtheory.ca SMOOTH SAILING 1930S SPORTS TOGS, WEARING HISTORY This pattern comes as a trouser/shorts and blouse ensemble. Inspired by mid-1930s and early 1940s fashion, this is an elegant and chic getup that's flatteringly tailored. We can definitely see Sewing Bee winner Clare in this! Available in sizes 12–22, wearinghistory.clothing 8615 VINTAGE JUMPSUIT, MIMI G STYLE, SIMPLICITY This authentic men's jumpsuit and overalls pattern from Mimi G Style is inspired by 1970s fashion. The jumpsuit features a notched collar, patch pockets on the chest as well as lower pockets that form carriers, and a self fabric buckle belt. Make it super retro in cord! Available in 34–52, simplicity.com

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London Dress photo: Josh Edgoose. Smooth Sailing photo: Allison Barcenas Photography; Makeup: Katharina Ramirez

LONDON DRESS, SELKIE PATTERNS The London Dress is inspired by a love of the city and of British 1950s fashion.

The dress features an elegant keyhole neckline, raglan sleeves, and a flattering fit around the waist. The London can also be made as a blouse or skirt.

Available in 6–20, selkiepatterns.co.uk

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COVER STAR

THE TUNIC DRESS

Wear it as a top or a dress, style it smart or casual, sew a keyhole, round, or cowl neck, The Tunic Dress can be worn your way.

gifts for her

classic and feminine

Sew up elegant patchwork gifts to treat yourself or someone special. We made ours in Bonnie Christie's gorgeous Her & History range for Art Gallery Fabrics.

Designer: JESSICA ENTWISTLE Styling: LISA JONES Photography: PHILLIP SOWELS

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clasp purse

This purse is so pretty and unique you'll want to show it off every chance you get. With a zipped pocket to keep your pennies safe and two sections for your cards, notes, stamps, and loyalty cards it'll keep you organised, too.

TOTe BAG

A personalised tote is always a guaranteed hit, right? Right.

This is a super-simple make and one that you'll use all the time.

We've given you the template for 'Wife, Mum, Boss', but you could easily design a template to make this your own.

THIS MONTH...

Hot under the collar Stitching garments with crisp collars isn't as tricky as it may first seem. Take your time and use our top tips to get perfectly crafted finishes, every time.

Written by Sophie Tarrant

CUSTOM FIT Pick from four different bust sizes for a perfect fit

CHOOSE YOUR SILHOUETTE With six sleeves and three skirt styles you can make this dress to suit any occasion

THE NIGHT AND DAY DRESS COLLECTION

This clever design from Charm Patterns by Gertie Hirsch allows you to create a truly custom garment from start to finish. It has two bodices, two collars, six sleeves, and three skirts to choose from, plus several different bust sizes – 72 potential vintage dresses to make! charmpatterns.bygertie.com

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TWO COLLARS Choose from a sharp square collar or pretty tie detail

PATTERN INSPIRATION

4

Whether it's a sharply cut shirt or a pretty summer dress, these patterns all feature a variety of stylish collars.

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2 3

5

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PRESSING MATTERS A tailor's ham is a great way to ensure a professional finish on all your garments.

1 GERANIUM DRESS EXPANSION KIT

The Geranium dress from Made by Rae is a gorgeous mix-and-match design, made to be completely customised – and now with this expansion pack there's added sizes, neck bows, collars, sashes, and sleeve options to choose from. made-by-rae.com 2 ORLA BLOUSE

This pretty design from Tilly and the Buttons is a semi-fitted shift top with the choice of a smooth curved neckline or decorative snowdrop collar. The classic top is made contemporary with a modern exposed zip, curved French darts and a flattering dipped hem. tillyandthebuttons.com

4 BERYL

The Beryl bomber dress from Named Clothing features a minimalist rib knit collar, raglan cut, and gathered elastic waist to give the garment subtle shaping. A short vent at the front hem and zip front closure also add an extra touch of style. namedclothing.com 5 EDIE BLOUSE

The Edie blouse and shirt dress from Two Stitches is a classic children's design with a front yoke and gathered front panel. The choice of two different collars, lengths, and sleeves makes this versatile pattern easy to customise. We love these with a contrast collar for an extra bit of fun and personalisation. twostitchespatterns.com

One of the best tools for creating crisp, neat collars is the tailor's ham. A ham is a tightly stuffed pillow, used to press curved garment pieces such as darts, sleeves, cuffs, and collars. You can easily create your own ham at home using a free pattern such as Jennifer Lauren's, which is available at jenniferlaurenvintage.com and includes full instructions. Turn the page for more information on how to use your finished ham!

3 VIOLET BLOUSE

This button-fronted blouse from Colette has a gentle loose fit and a Peter Pan collar that's reminiscent of the 1960s. Choose from short sleeves or mid-length, elastic-gathered sleeves for a more structured feel. This is a great pattern for beginners, and a good place to start if you're wanting to experiment with collars. colettepatterns.com

6 NEWCASTLE CARDIGAN

This slim-fitting cardigan from Thread Theory features a simple shawl collar, long cuffed sleeves, and bespoke details such as a shoulder and back yokes and decorative topstitching. This is a classic, comfortable, and really flattering design that will suit anyone. threadtheory.ca

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ACCESSORISE ALL AREAS Business owner and sewist, Ade Ogbomo, makes beautifully bright accessories to fill a gap in the market.

Written by Rachel Avery

a good read

Y

ou could credit Ade Ogbomo’s then seven-year-old nephew for providing the light-bulb moment of her big business venture. He asked why he couldn’t have a bright bow tie just like his auntie’s African print outfit – not only a very good question, but also the catalyst for Ade spotting a significant gap in the market. After whipping up quite a few bow ties, in varying colours and prints for her nephew, he soon became a mini style icon at their local church.

Everyone was asking where they could get their hands on a smart tie in a traditional printed fabric. And that’s how the brand GabeJade (gabejade. com) was born.

The origins of Ade’s flare for crafting, like many successful sewists, comes from her childhood. It was actually her grandmother who initially taught her how to sew. “She taught me how to replace buttons and fix tears when I was little and I was so excited to perform these tasks,” reminisces Ade.

“Later, when I became a first-grade teacher, when the kid’s buttons would come off, they would think I was a superhero when I actually could fix it for them.”

CULTURAL INFLUENCES From her grandmother’s simple sewing techniques, to her nephew’s fashion quandary, family was at the heart of what kickstarted the brand, officially launching in 2017. And today, family is still a recurring theme in the ethos of the brand. “Back home in Nigeria, everyone is family and culture oriented – we believe love should be at the centre of everything you do,” says Ade. So it’s no coincidence that GabeJade’s brand photography is brimming full of family life: “Our photos often include individuals smiling and having fun with their family and friends, because we have matching sets for families, friends… and even your fur babies” – check out the adorable dog bandanas!

"back home in nigeria, we believe love should be at the centre of everything you do."

(Left) Ade's happy place is her craft room.

(Above) The three-layered pre-tied bow tie – fourth image down – is Ade's favourite item, and the first thing she learned how to make!

NO PATTERN NEEDED!

✂

chic in check

How pretty is this patternless wrap skirt from Debbie Wainhouse? We love it in this classic red gingham with a contrast ruffle.

me-modified

THRIFTY MAKES

Embellish a plain shirt with a colourful print using this fast refashion from Debbie Wainhouse!

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good night This little fluffy owl from Lucy Ward is the perfect cuddle buddy for nighttime.

We love the pretty floral feathers!

my favourite thing

zero waste

Sewing Bee's Mark Francis has been busy with his own transformation challenge: trousers to something tailored.

When I first started sewing, a waistcoat was a garment I was itching to master. I wanted to be able to create the waistcoats of my dreams.

A perfect storm came together with this project when a trusted pair of jeans finally walked their last mile on my legs. I'd repaired them before, but this time they were beyond repair and I couldn’t let the denim go to waste.

Digging out an old pattern I set to work cutting up these old faithfuls, but I needed fabric for the lining and back, of course. All sewers love buying fabric, it’s almost like a separate hobby in its own right, and I am no different. I found the perfect fabric for the waistcoat hiding in my stash.

I opted to use as many original features of the jeans as I could, so the back pockets

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became the front pockets on the waistcoat and the waistband became the back belt, complete with leather label and size stamp. The jeans had distressing which I also wanted to preserve, and I was just about able to position the front panels in such a way that these sections live on in my waistcoat. Getting the front facings cut out of the denim as well was tricky, but I managed to eke out the fabric to get enough for all of the sections.

Thinking about future sewing projects, I believe more waistcoats will be the way forward for me. My collection certainly needs updating. Thankfully sewing has now resumed its usual leisurely pace.

See Mark's latest projects on his new website, sewmarkfrancis.com, and at @sewmarkfrancis

S Advent calendar Giant duffel bag Felt house slippers Kid's dress-up skirt Christmas cushion Easy felt stocking Mouse plushie toy Button-up skirt and more...

POPPY TOPern! tt 2-in-1 pa

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CHRISTMAS BOOK - 25 projects to sew!

GIFTS

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ON SALE THURSDAY 1 OCT

* CONTENTS AND GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND MAY VARY ACCORDING TO TERRITORY. PAPER, FABRIC AND TOOL GIFTS NOT AVAILABLE WITH DIGITAL EDITIONS.

WORTH £17.98

ORION DRESS + top pattern!