AWAY SUMMER 2016 English

COMPLIMENTARY

A GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRAVEL, SHOPPING AND FUN II SUMMER 2016

WHEN IN ROME A romantic escape to Italy’s most magnificent city PLUS SUMMER MUSIC-FEST GUIDE, HOT-AIR BALLOONING IN TURKEY, MEXICO CITY’S NEW COOL AND MORE

THE INSIDERS’ GUIDE TO LONDON, ZAGREB, PORTLAND AND BERLIN

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Visit amexcloud10.ca to discover premium travel benefits.* *Only on select cards. Terms and Conditions apply. TM, ®: Used by Amex Bank of Canada under license from American Express. ®*: Aeroplan and AeroplanPlus are registered trademarks of Aimia Canada Inc. ®†, TM†: Trademarks of AIR MILES International Trading B.V. Used under license by LoyaltyOne, Inc. and Amex Bank of Canada. †Conditions apply. Select American Express® Cards are eligible for this benefit: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express Corporate Platinum Card, and the American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. ††Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge Access is a card benefit available to: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. Plaza Premium Lounge Access is a card benefit available to: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, and The American Express Corporate Platinum Card. †††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible for this benefit: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The Business Platinum Card® from American Express. Toronto Pearson Valet Care Service – Basic and Supplementary Platinum Card members must present a valid, unexpired Platinum Card when picking up vehicle for $25 Valet fee to be waived, provided the associated parking fee is charged to your Platinum Card. Waived fee applies only to Toronto Pearson Airport Valet Services in Terminal 1 and 3. For more information on Valet Service visit torontopearson.com. ††††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible for this benefit: The Centurion® card from American Express, the American Express Platinum Card, the American Express AeroplanPlus Platinum Card, and The Business Platinum Card from American Express.

SUMMER 2016

VOLUME 2, ISSUE 3

BERLIN

TURKEY

p54 p38

p55 LONDON

p22 DAWSON CITY

PEMBERTON

MEXICO CITY

Where we’re going in this issue...

P.E.I. MONTREAL

p30

ZAGREB PORTLAND

ROME

p44

p51 p53 p22

explorer

22

Creative Frontier

28

Sounds of Summer

PHOTOGRAPH BY COLLEEN NICHOLSON

30 38 44

For travellers chasing cultural riches, Dawson City is the motherlode Three music festivals you won’t want to miss Some Like it Cool

Mexico City—a food capital with a fast and furious pace—is a hotspot Gone With the Wind

When you’re in Central Turkey, see the big picture from a hot-air balloon Roman Holiday

A modern snapshot of the ancient Italian capital

ON THE COVER II Downtown Rome. Photograph by Simon Willms SUMMER 2016 AWAY 3

p12

p18

p51

INSIDER 9 II On the Ground Terminal 3’s new Eye in the Sky lets the sun shine in 10 II Pearson Person Tony Crepinsek delivers the backstory on the revitalization of Terminal 3 11 II Anatomy The greatest gizmos for your next trip

the list

d e to u r s

15 II Air Fare Terminal 3’s new dining hub offers up a world of flavours

51 II Portland Quirky and carefree. Your guide: singer Thomas Lauderdale

16 II Gifts A pile of goodies to take home or bite into while you wait for your flight

53 II Zagreb Tiny but cool. Your guide: writer Andrea Pisac

18 II Style and Beauty Brighten up your summer with playfully bold colours 20 II Et Cetera Six totally entertaining ways to kill time 4 AWAY SUMMER 2016

54 II Berlin Always changing.

Your guide: former diplomat Kerstin Pfirrmann 55 II London Fun for kids, too.

Your guide: editorial director Maryam Sanati

wa y f i n d e r 57 II Maps Navigating Toronto Pearson Terminal 1 and Terminal 3

jet age 62 II Safe Passage In 1972, the “people-frisker” makes its Pearson debut

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LIAM MOGAN; ANNA LISA SANG; JEREMY PELLEY

12 II Checking In We chat up travellers in the departure lounges

CO-PUBLISHERS Deborah Trepanier, Douglas Kelly EDITORIAL Editorial Director Maryam Sanati Managing Editor Pat Lynch ART Creative Director Una Janicijevic Photo Editor Liz Ikiriko Art Director Rachel Tennenhouse CONTRIBUTORS Alice Cho, Denise Dias, Jeremy Freed, Paul Gallant, Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock, Reynard Li, Sarah Liss, Iain MacMillan, Liam Mogan, François Nadeau, Colleen Nicholson, Ray O’Reilly, Anna Lisa Sang, Simon Willms PRODUCTION Production Director Maria Mendes Production Manager Alexandra Irving GREATER TORONTO AIRPORTS AUTHORITY FOR TORONTO PEARSON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT President and CEO Howard Eng Vice-President, Customer and Terminal Services Scott Collier Director, Passenger Service Janine Gervais Associate Director, Business Development, Partnerships and Advertising Sergio Pulla Manager, Passenger Experience Ryan Ward Senior Representative, Passenger Communications Beverly MacDonald ST. JOSEPH MEDIA Chairman Tony Gagliano President Douglas Knight General Manager and Vice-President, Finance Karl Percy Vice-President, Strategic Development Duncan Clark Vice-President, Content Development Jacqueline Loch Vice-President, Research Clarence Poirier Vice-President, Marketing and Production Darlene Storey Controller Dora Brenndorfer CONTACT US For advertising sales: Deborah Trepanier deborah.trepanier@stjoseph.com (416) 955-4993 For editorial: AWAY 111 Queen Street East, Suite 320, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2 away@stjosephmedia.com (416) 364-3333 Greater Toronto Airports Authority P.O. Box 6031, 3111 Convair Drive Toronto AMF, Ontario L5P 1B2 (416) 776-3000 AWAY is published four times per year by St. Joseph Media Inc. on behalf of the Greater Toronto Airports Authority (GTAA). © 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced in any form without the consent of the GTAA. The GTAA is not responsible for any errors or omissions contained in this publication.

Printed in Canada by St. Joseph Printing.

SUMMER 2016 VOLUME 2, ISSUE 3

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SPRING 2016 AWAY 5

PRESIDENT’S LETTER

RETHINKING AN AIRPORT

Your experience at Toronto Pearson is about to get better

6 AWAY SUMMER 2016

experience for the thousands of travellers and employees who come through our doors every day. We’ve added new shopping destinations to suit every taste, and we’ve switched the location of U.S. preclearance to make checking-in easier. This summer, we’ll unveil a revitalized hub within Terminal 3 with several new, quick and delicious eating and drinking options (page 15) and lots of contemporary, comfortable seating.

By 2030, 60 million passengers are expected to pass through Toronto Pearson per year. We are a global hub and our status on the world stage will only continue to grow. That’s why we’re laying the groundwork to better meet the needs of our passengers, both for today and in the future.

Bon Voyage, Howard Eng

PHOTOGRAPHS BY REYNARD LI

A warm welcome to the summer issue of Away. It’s hard to believe that we’re approaching the first anniversary of this magazine. We launched Away in 2015 to provide passengers with a lively, informative way to enrich their travels—starting with their journey through Toronto Pearson International Airport.

Many of you know that Toronto Pearson is Canada’s busiest airport. Last year alone, we welcomed 443,000 flights and 41 million passengers—becoming the first airport in Canada to achieve that milestone. We’ve been anticipating this growth in air travel for more than a decade but our job is not just about numbers. The heart of our mission is to improve the passenger experience. Not only do we want to help you reach your destination safely and efficiently, we want you to enjoy yourself along the way.

Over the past two years, Toronto Pearson has undertaken a most ambitious transformation.

As part of our core promise to our passengers, we’ve been working hard to improve our retail offerings, restaurants and services to make Toronto Pearson truly world class.

In both Terminals 1 and 3, we’ve made big changes in order to offer an enhanced

summer 2016

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INSIDER THE SECRET LIFE OF TORONTO PEARSON

The Eye in the Sky provides views of airborne planes from the newly renovated hub in Terminal 3

ON THE GROUND

LOOKING UP

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NAEEM JAFFER/ELLIS DON

Terminal 3’s new Eye in the Sky lets the sun shine in Flooded with natural light and enhanced by artful touches—a stunning chandelier that mimics the look of dappled sunlight; a tree sculpture festooned with leaves made of wool— Terminal 3’s newly revitalized hub feels more like a futuristic gallery than an airport retail space. “In terms of design approach, it’s the biggest transformation in space in Toronto Pearson’s history,” says Paul Gogan, the

principal who helped spearhead the project for Toronto-based design and engineering firm Stantec. Its crowning glory, however, is the Eye in the Sky, a giant glass-hemmed portal that lets the sun stream in. More than just a fancy window, this feature feeds our natural inclination to contemplate the skies as planes cruise overhead, cutting through skeins of cloud as they zoom toward their destinations.

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 9

INSIDER It was starting to look dated.

Some of the architectural finishes, some of the colour schemes, are coming up to 30 years old. The colour seafoam green was everywhere. The new colour palette will make the building much more modern. We’ve added different materials, too. There are wood elements, more colour, more digital presence. Plus all the new retail will add a lot of life.

What will grab travellers’ attention as they’re zipping through Terminal 3?

Our architectural team, Stantec, pushed hard to get natural light into the core of the space. We’ve opened it up, so at the departure level there are views out to the apron [where airplanes are parked, boarded, unloaded and refuelled]. And we’ve opened up the roof, which dramatically changes the space.

AIRPORT CONDUCTOR

Tony Crepinsek oversaw the revitalization of Terminal 3. He gives us a peek behind the curtain

BY PAUL GALLANT

Back in the late 1980s, Tony Crepinsek was part of the team that built Toronto Pearson’s Terminal 3, which opened in 1991. As a young urban planner and developer, he figured it might be the biggest project he’d ever work on.

Twenty-five years later, after playing a part in the construction of Pearson’s Terminal 1 and Toronto’s Sheppard subway line, Crepinsek is now overseeing the $140-million reinvention of Terminal 3.

Crepinsek predicts airport users will be wowed by this summer’s unveiling: parts of 10 AWAY SUMMER 2016

Terminal 3 have been given a modern makeover, with two new screening areas, new retail and dining options and a whole lot more natural light.

Making it all happen with minimal passenger hassle was just one of Crepinsek’s many (many) challenges.

You’ve spent a lot of time at Terminal 3 during your career.

I have a real sense of pride about that building. The improvements will allow us to use that building for years to come. It really needed it.

What are you personally most excited about?

There’s going to be a large bar serving local craft beer called the Beerhive. That’s my type of place.

Is there ever a time at Pearson when you can say, ‘It’s all done, we’re not building anything right now’?

I don’t see it during my career. It’s just the nature of the industry. How passengers get processed, what people do with their bags, how they check in, how they go through security, the customs process—it’s always continuing to evolve and change.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SIMON WILLMS

PEARSON PERSON

How dirty do you have to get your own hands?

Even when I don’t have to be here, I will come in to support my team. If I have to physically move something, as long as I’m doing it safely, I’ll do what it takes.

INSIDER

ANATOMY

CRUCIAL CARRY-ONS

When it comes to travelling smoothly, that clever doohickey you remembered to pack can make all the difference. Here, a roundup of the greatest gizmos to take on your next trip

BY DENISE DIAS

$$$

BabyZen’s YOYO stroller fits in an overhead bin and weighs only 6 kgs. $750. babyzen.com

Lightweight laser cut sandals work across seasons and fold nicely. $395. ronwhiteshoes.com J.Crew’s stylish Primaloft jacket also works as a warm liner and rolls up into its own pocket. $259. jcrew.com

NEED

WANT

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

Leaves of Trees’ kit consists of travel sizes of essential balms and salves. $165. leavesoftrees.com

Eastern Collective’s cute, sturdy charging cable will make you the airport hero. $26. istoreworld.com

Smythson’s wallet has four zippered sections to separate currencies and cards. $350. smythson.com

Spy on the birdies using Kenko binoculars’ sharp optical powers. $20. thesource.ca

Splash-proof Bluetooth speaker JBL Flip 3 for impromptu pool parties.$100. iStoreworld.com

$

Joby GorillaPod is a bendable travel tripod for setting up the perfect shot. $22.50. thesource.ca

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 11

INSIDER CHECKING IN

SO, WHERE ARE YOU GOING?

Eleven travellers pause to tell us about the journey ahead

BY RACHEL TENNENHOUSE PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNA LISA SANG

Who Dianne Gushue, 58, clinic manager from Fort McMurray Where Athens, Greece Why “I always wanted to climb the hill where Mamma Mia! was filmed.” Dream destination “We did it! Tuscany.

The culture, people and museums lived up to expectations.

So, so good.”

Who Kiaun Baptiste, 22, a Missouri State student from the Virgin Islands Where Greece and Italy Why To study for two weeks How he’s passing the time “Getting burgers.” Listening to Drake and Future Carry-on “My phone.” Dream destination Dubai: “I like the architecture there.”

Who Students Yuii Luo, 18, from Guongzhou and Jason Zhou, 19, from Shanghai, China Where Shanghai Why To see family How they’re passing the time Buying maple leaf candy and Chanel at Duty Free Dream destination Going to the Dominican Republic together, “for the nice beaches.”

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Who Edgar Aburto, 41, math professor from Toronto Where El Salvador and Nicaragua Why Summer vacation How he’s passing the time Shopping at Duty Free Reading Nicaraguan stories by Rubén Darío Carry-on Swimming and beach clothes Dream destination Australia

INSIDER Who Alexander Wallin, 22, international marketing student from Uppsala, Sweden Where Shanghai, China Why “I’m studying there for three weeks.” How he’s passing the time “Catching up on the show Prison Break.” Listening to The Weeknd Carry-on “My laptop. That’s about it.”

Dream destination Halong Bay, Vietnam

Who Carolina Zuleta, 39, scientist, and her son Santiago Vasquez, 5, from Raleigh, North Carolina Where Tokyo, Japan Why Family vacation Reading Business Newsweek Carryon Kids’ books, food, extra clothes, camera Dream destination “Tokyo is one of our dream trips.”

Who Angelica Crespo, 22, model from

Stockholm, Sweden Where “Malmo, Sweden, to see my mom. Then to Italy for work.” How she’s passing the time “Looking for a place to surf the net.” Dream destination “Hawaii— I’ve seen pictures and it looks beautiful.”

Who Julia Hall, 60, former bank manager from Victoria, B.C., and her dog, Jazzie Where The Greek islands Why “For my 60th birthday—I’m trying to embrace the new decade.” Dream destination “Greek island hopping with my doggies.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

Who Ava Broscoff, 21, cinema and photography student from Howard Lake, Minnesota Where Tokyo, Japan Why “To visit my brother.” How she’s passing the time “Reading poetry by my professor, Daniel Ruefman.” Listening to Bauhaus, Siouxsie and the Banshees Dream destination “Japan, for longer than a month.”

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 13

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the list SHOP, DINE, RELAX AT TORONTO PEARSON

Wonton noodle soup at Shanghai 360

AIR FARE

TASTE OF TORONTO

Terminal 3’s new dining hub offers up a world of flavours Where do you get quick, delicious food when you’re zipping through an airport? This summer, Toronto Pearson answers the question by revamping its culinary options at Terminal 3.

As part of a years-in-the-making revitalization, the terminal will now feature a wide-ranging roster of goodies, including all-day dim sum and noodles at Shanghai 360, a pan-Asian spot with a novel open kitchen; carne asada burritos

at Smoke’s Burritorie, the Tex-Mex offshoot of local staple Smoke’s Poutinerie; expertly grilled angus patties at Smashburger; and a wide variety of stellar microbrews at Beerhive.

“We want to reflect diversity—what the city is all about,” says Suzanne Merrell, the Greater Toronto Airports Authority senior manager of food and beverage programs. For hungry travellers, the stomach’s a great place to start.

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 15

the list

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C oodieswait fo A N f g ou

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N o GA ile hile y AM MO p I A ow YL t HB n P i A GR PH

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SNACKS Chocolate bars, gum, pretzels, chips, Cheetos, suckers, cookies and candy, Relay, Watermark, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. TRINKETS Mountie keychains, $9; model airplane, $9, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

16 AWAY SUMMER 2016

Toronto fridge magnets, $6–$7, Relay. LIQUIDS Maple syrup (50 ml), $8.50; Molson Canadian six-pack, $8.50, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

See Toronto Pearson maps on pages 57-61 for retail locations

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 17

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STYLE AND BEAUTY

HOT HUES

Brighten up your summer with playfully bold colours PHOTOGRAPHS BY LIAM MOGAN

1 Clinique Chubby Sticks, $26, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. 2 Clinique Sweet Spots, $24, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. 3 Victoria’s Secret Coconut Passion eau de toilette, $30, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

4 Coach bracelets, $66, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. 5 The Body Shop Oils of Life and Drops of Youth, $22 each, The Body Shop.

6 Coach wallet, $75, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. 7 The Body Shop bronze lip balm, $10, The Body Shop. 8 The Body Shop vegan nail polish, $8, The Body Shop. 9 Ray Ban sunglasses, $275, The Sunglass Hut. See Toronto Pearson maps on pages 57-61 for retail locations

18 AWAY SUMMER 2016

Get ready to take off.

Any airline, every seat, no blackouts.

ET CETERA

CULTURE BREAK

Six entertaining ways to kill time down on the ground or up in the clouds

BY SARAH LISS

3

1 2

1 TV In The Get Down, offbeat visionary Baz Luhrmann (Romeo + Juliet, Moulin Rouge!) immerses viewers in the sweaty discos and grimy underpasses of late-’70s New York, exploring how the era’s tensions helped galvanize disenfranchised kids in the Bronx and beyond to create an entirely new art form: hip-hop.

(Netflix, August 12) From the dark, brilliantly twisted minds behind Eastbound & Down comes Vice Principals, a deliriously weird comedy about the bloodthirsty battle that ensues when a pair of high-school second-in-commands 20 AWAY SUMMER 2016

are compelled to go head-to-head in the hopes of earning the power, glory, and prestige of a principal position. Hijinks (and at least one small-scale monster truck brawl involving forklifts) ensue. (HBO, July) 2 NON-FICTION It’s standard practice for comedians to turn personal setbacks into fodder for jokes, but it’s rare for a standup—or anyone, for that matter— to face as many misfortunes as Tig Notaro experienced in 2012. During a now-legendary set, she detailed the previous four months in her life—the death of her mother, the collapse of her relationship, the breast-cancer

diagnosis she’d received only a few days earlier—transforming trauma into profoundly funny material.

Notaro reflects on that tumultuous time and its surprisingly happy aftermath in her new memoir, I’m Just a Person, a book that expertly balances humour and pathos.

(HarperCollins, June 14) 3 FICTION In his award-winning 2011 book, The Chimps of Fauna Sanctuary, primatologist Andrew Westoll provided an intimate (and frequently harrowing) look at the lives of apes used for biomedical testing. He brings the same depth of knowledge

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE GET DOWN, NETFLIX; VICE PRINCIPALS, HBO CANADA; I’M JUST A PERSON AND THE JUNGLE SOUTH OF THE MOUNTAIN, HARPER COLLINS

4

the list

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Art nerd, comedian and actor Steve Martin helped curate the AGO’s current Lawren Harris exhibit

PHOTOGRAPHS: STEVE MARTIN BY CHISA HUGHES, COURTESY OF THE AGO; LAWREN S. HARRIS, LAKE SUPERIOR CIRCA 1924, AGO, BEQUEST OF CHARLES S.BAND, COPYRIGHT 2016 ESTATE OF LAWREN S. HARRIS; AB FAB, FOX SEARCHLIGHT PICTURES

6

and keen emotional insight to his first novel, The Jungle South of the Mountain, which explores the world of (and around) a group of capuchin monkeys in a South American rainforest. (HarperCollins, August 23) 4 MUSIC In 2015, cult darling Roisin Murphy ended an extended hiatus with Hairless Toys, an enchantingly enigmatic collection of weird, captivating electronica that wound up earning a Mercury Prize nomination. In an uncharacteristically prolific move, she’s back just over a year later with Take Her Up to Monto, a slinky

set of percolating synth-pop gems equally suited to lounging in silk PJs and cutting loose on a packed dance floor. (Play It Again Sam, July 8)

patriotic pride by basking in the presence of some true national treasures. (Through Sept. 16; 317 Dundas St. W., ago.net)

5 ART With their snow-capped crags and boreal clusters, Lawren Harris’s renderings of northern landscapes are as iconically Canadian as the crimson maple leaf on our flag.

Appropriately enough, The Idea of North, a new exhibition of the Group of Seven founder’s work, opens July 1 at the Art Gallery of Ontario. Comedian and actor (and long-time art collector) Steve Martin helped curate the show. Stoke your

6 FILM The sublime boozy broads at the centre of Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie go on the lam (to the French Riviera, natch) after they’re implicated in the accidental death of supermodel Kate Moss. Those concerned that the British sitcom might be defanged for its first bigscreen foray needn’t worry—the script by co-star Jennifer Saunders ensures that Patsy and Edina retain their outrageous panache. (July 22) SUMMER 2016 AWAY 21

explorer

CREATIVE CREATIVE FRONTIER For travellers chasing cultural riches, Dawson City might be the motherlode

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

Story and photos by Colleen Nicholson

22 AWAY SUMMER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

Known to locals as “The Pit,” Dawson’s oldest bar can be found in The Westminster Hotel, where live music rules on Friday and Saturday nights

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 23

LOCAL HANDED ME A TOKEN, a green plastic coin stamped with the words “Good for One Drink, Dawson City Music Festival,” and called out over the crowd’s applause: “Use this, it’s not good tomorrow.” I flipped the coin over in my hand and examined the black embossed type and treble clef clip art. Reading my mind, he leaned towards me and shouted “...and no saving any as souvenirs!”

Dawson City is a strange place.

At the northern end of the Klondike Highway, a solitary stretch of road that snakes its way from Skagway, Alaska, through the heart of the Yukon, you’ll find Dawson. A town by all rational measures (and its official status), the “city” honorific is the first clue you’ve entered a community with a deep connection to the past. There’s a second: Dawson could be easily mistaken for a backlot from a Hollywood Western. If you’ve spent any time reading the poetry of Robert Service—the so-called Bard of the Yukon—you might be imagining a worn, partially abandoned, haphazard city of lusty miners. This is not that place. Pastel-coloured frontier buildings are so lovingly well-maintained that it’s a surprise the smell of latex paint doesn’t linger. Dawson’s history of flooding and fires, 15 of each in the last century, is partly to thank for its freshly rejuvenated, just-woken-from-a-17-hour-nap appearance.

There’s more here than the hope of discovering gold that brought about 100,000 prospectors to kneel at its streambeds in 1896.

Behind the unusually pristine signage and don’t-bet-on-it old-timey panning lessons lies

ONE TOE OVER THE LINE Daring drinkers can down a Sourtoe Cocktail at the Downtown Hotel. The severed human toe (it’s real!) must touch your lips as you drink to gain entry into the esteemed Sourtoe Club.

24 AWAY SUMMER 2016

an authenticity that is disarmingly persuasive. People who come and stay in Dawson don’t indulge in the gruff swagger you’d expect from residents who live year-round in a place with extreme swings in temperature and light. (Summer typically hits 30C with up to 22 hours of sunlight, while winter dips to -40C with as little as seven hours of daylight.)

Instead, Dawsonites are the epitome of hardy.

Look no further than the guy who lives in a cave for proof of their steeliness. Or order the cocktail garnished with a severed toe. (Like I said, strange place.) I’ve visited twice now, and not once have I heard a local brag or complain about sticking it out through the winter.

(To compare: I’ve driven my little motorcycle through Toronto’s damp, undeniably brisk

You might imagine a haphazard, wornout city. This is not that place. winters for years and it’s often the next thing after my name that acquaintances hear about.)

In Dawson, when the sun is bright, the city’s mood is simply celebratory. And locals make the most of it.

Last summer, I arrived just in time for the annual Dawson City Music Festival (DCMF).

Held in mid-July, it’s a gem of an event.

Attendees consider it one of Canada’s best music fests, and for good reason—with six official venues, most of them outdoor, free shows and a girls’ rock camp, the northern air vibrates with song. You can’t stroll the city’s boardwalks without hearing the sounds of strumming or drumming coming from around a corner. Perhaps most surprising is how dazzlingly unpretentious and casually extraordinary the DCMF is. Artists are often put up by locals and the three-day festival is supported mainly by volunteers. Even the audience is unusually—and blissfully—free of glowing cellphones. (Travellers take note: that’s partly because of how spotty Wi-Fi is up here.) If you’re arriving before or after the festival, Dawson’s oldest bar, The Pit (to locals) or The Westminster Tavern and Lounge (to Google), can be counted on for live music Friday and Saturday nights and, season-long, for some pretty funky décor—including a painting of a Mountie that’s NSFW.

explorer

STRAIGHT OUT OF 1900 The Yukon Saw Mill Co. building once had a lumberyard that stretched over three blocks.

Although no longer the bustling Yukon capital (that honour moved 500 km south to Whitehorse soon after the highway was complete), Dawson City still has plenty of creative bounty beyond the DCMF. Theatre baron Alexander Pantages made his fortune here.

(So did Donald Trump’s grandfather, in nearby Skagway, Alaska, but that’s another story.)

Authors like Robert Service and Jack London brought the Klondike gold rush to the global imagination, and there’s no more apt place to read The Cremation of Sam McGee than in Service’s restored cabin. There’s magic left in that classic ballad and even my otherwisestoic neck hairs rise to the power of its words when the sky is still bright at 1 a.m. The town boasts eight National Historic Sites of Canada and the Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre—a rare exemption from Klondike-era-style bylaws, this “Long Ago House” meeting and exhibition place is a celebratory, modern interpretation of traditional Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in shelters. (The Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in are a Yukon First Nation based in Dawson City.)

Dawson also regularly hosts artist, musi-

cian and writer retreats and holds separate festivals in art, music and short film. In other words, there’s a lot of activity packed into this little place, nevermind the seemingly continuous cancan shows at Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall and all of the city’s gold rushinspired throwback tourism.

After three days of live music, I awoke at a squinty hour of the morning (earlier than noon), and made a break for the wilderness.

Tombstone Range, a formation that could easily pass as Sauron, Lord of the Ring’s summer home, is only a couple of hours away by car— just head up the Dempster Highway. The road is all-season, but unforgiving. You’ll need a plan and extra tires. But once you get there, you’ll find yourself in an otherworldly place that’s a playground for photographers and experienced hikers alike. The subarctic tundra has the texture and density of toasted wholegrain bread, making the simple act of walking feel strange. Of course, by far the fastest way to get there, and one of the most dramatic, is to fly by helicopter. Pressed for time and keen to snap photos of the Yukon from above, I hopped SUMMER 2016 AWAY 25

explorer

Tundra meets ragged mountains in nearby Tombstone Territorial Park

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TUNE YARD The mainstage at the Dawson City Music Festival; singer-songwriter Sarah MacDougall performs

aboard a single-engine Airbus 350 chopper at Trans North’s base, just outside of Dawson, for a sightseeing flight over Tombstone Territorial Park, armed with my reliable old Canon camera. Twenty minutes later our pilot announced over the flightcom headset, “When my girlfriend and I have an argument, I land there and we have a picnic. It fixes everything.” Looking down at a perfectly cerulean-blue lake nestled deep in a stone-walled valley, I couldn’t help but think, “No kidding.” Arguments over a partner’s shocking inability to load the dishwasher the obvious, universally accepted, correct way would take on a new perspective up here in Tombstone Territorial Park.

B

ACK IN DAWSON CITY , IN THE SHADOW OF

Midnight Dome mountain, there’s an unmistakable camaraderie, whether you’re one of the 1,300 or so alarmingly resilient “sourdoughs” (a.k.a. all-season residents) or a firsttime visitor. This isn’t the kind of place you just trip over on your way to something else—you seek it out and everybody here knows it. If my good luck holds, I’ll be back again soon. The people of Dawson City are as much of a draw as the wealth of creative and outdoor adventures that lie in wait. Besides, I’d love to get my hands on one of those retro-hip drink tickets again.

Maybe next time I’ll actually bring it home with me.

FLY WestJet and Air Canada offer flights to Vancouver, connecting to Whitehorse. Air North flies from Whitehorse to Dawson City STAY Downtown Hotel has double bed-

rooms from $140/night. Book tickets and rooms in advance or be prepared to camp; accommodations fill up quickly and the festival sells out. downtownhotel.ca

DO The Dawson City Music Festival (July

22-24, 2016). This summer’s lineup includes Jenn Grant’s dreamy folk and Def3’s sharp rap. Weekend passes $148.50, dcmf.com

Eight hours from Toronto to Whitehorse (indirect); 75 minutes direct from Whitehorse to Dawson City

DAWSON WHITEHORSE

VANCOUVER TORONTO

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Sounds of Summer Can’t make it to Dawson City?

Here are three other music festivals you won’t want to miss

BY DENISE DIAS VIRTUALLY ROCKIN’

Pemberton Music Festival pembertonmusicfestival.com

Four epic days of music, comedy, food and art, the Pemberton Music Festival takes place from July 14 to 17 under majestic Mount Currie, just 20 minutes north of Whistler, B.C.

While over 115,000 people attended the 2015 festival, more than 5 million from around the world tuned in to watch performances live on Snapchat.

WHO GOES With a lineup that includes rock, hip-hop, heavy metal, electronica and comedy, there’s something for everyone.

WHERE TO STAY Alpine chic meets

rustic wilderness at Whistler’s Adara Hotel (adarahotel.com) or the luxurious Nita Lake Lodge (nitalakelodge. com), where breathtaking views await at every turn.

WHAT NOT TO MISS Take in some stunning scenery at the nearby resort town of Whistler, where you can book a bear viewing tour and see the area’s famous black bears in their natural habitat with help from experienced guides and researchers.

WHAT TO AVOID Sunburn and dehydration can easily sneak up on you in the great outdoors. Be sure to pack plenty of sunscreen and carry water with you.

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY PEMBERTON MUSIC FESTIVAL; OSHEAGA BY EMMA MCINTYRE/GETTY; SCULPTURE BY WAYNE WHITE; COURTESY CAVENDISH BEACH MUSIC FESTIVAL; TAYLOR SWIFT, iSTOCKPHOTO

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ART IN THE PARK Music might be the main draw, but Osheaga also pulls in some of the art world’s most eclectic and creative artists, like Wayne White (the former Pee-wee’s Playhouse set designer), who built sculptures and puppets for the festival’s 10th anniversary in 2015.

Osheaga Music and Arts Festival osheaga.com

A huge outdoor festival of indie music and visual art, Osheaga runs from July 29 to 31 on Saint Helen’s Island in Montreal’s Parc Jean-Drapeau.

WHO GOES More than 135,000 fans from all over the world looking to discover emerging talent alongside the biggest stars in the industry.

WHERE TO STAY Exposed brick walls and loft-like rooms are plentiful in the character-filled Le Place d’Armes Hotel (hotelplacedarmes.com).

WHAT NOT TO MISS The Biosphere, the only environment museum in North America, is housed on Saint Helen’s Island in a spectacular structure that was featured in Battlestar Galactica.

WHAT TO AVOID The overly com-

mercial Saint Catherine Street: Instead, head to Vieux-Montréal, the oldest area of the city, with cobblestone streets and enchanting cafés.

Cavendish Beach Music Festival cavendishbeachmusic.com

One of the largest music fests in Atlantic Canada, the Cavendish Beach Music Festival takes place from July 8 to 10 in a picturesque coastal community on Prince Edward Island.

WHO GOES Country music fans hoping to rub shoulders with Blake Shelton or Kenny Chesney.

NO BAD BLOOD HERE In 2015, Nashville singer-songwriter Eric Church was only the second Cavendish Beach performer to play to a fully sold-out crowd.

The first? No big surprise: Taylor Swift packed the house in 2010.

WHERE TO STAY The family-owned

Kindred Spirits Country Inn (kindredspirits.ca) is a short walk from the festival grounds and next door to the Anne of Green Gables house.

WHAT NOT TO MISS Miles of

beautiful beaches: Enjoy a swim on Brackley, clam digging on Tea Hill or the singing sands of Basin Head— a phenomenon that scientists can’t fully explain.

WHAT TO AVOID Mediocre lobster: For PEI’s best, look for a bright redorange colour, a fresh aroma and a tail that snaps back into a curled position after being straightened.

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SOME LIKE IT

COOL

Mexico City is hot—a food capital with a fast and furious pace. But the deeper you dive into its neighbourhoods, the quieter things become

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

BY JEREMY FREED PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY LAUCKNER GUNDLOCK

MAXIMO BISTROT’S ROASTED BEETS, APPLES AND FIG PURÉE...

...PREPARED

BY CHEF EDUARDO GARCIA

GRAB A SQUASH BLOSSOM QUESADILLA IN XOCHIMILCO...

...AND EAT IT ON A BOAT

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

BITE INTO TUNA TOSTADAS AT CONTRAMAR...

...WHERE THE VIBE IS LAID-BACK

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TRAJINERAS—COLOURFUL, NON-MOTORIZED BOATS— CROWD XOCHIMILCO’S CANALS

THE BOAT GLIDES THROUGH THE CANAL, pushing aside dead leaves and lily pads in its lazy wake.

It’s late February, and while the snow swirls at home, the weather here is sunny and mild. Farther away, a horse and a pair of cows graze next to a cactus on the banks. The air smells clear. We’re breaking the stillness of the morning in Mexico City, one of the 32 AWAY SUMMER 2016

world’s largest cities, home to more than 20 million people— a place known for straining the senses. It’s a city of incredible street food, terrible traffic and spectacular architecture.

Some of the world’s best restaurants and museums are here, as are bullfights, lucha libre arenas and markets selling all the ceremonial gear you need to start practising santeria. It’s also home to where

we are now—Xochimilco, the tranquil neighbourhood that’s a UNESCO heritage site and a protected habitat for dozens of species of birds and other wildlife. Something you realize quickly after arriving is that there isn’t just one Mexico City, but many.

Mexico City is in vogue, endorsed by the New York Times as the top destination to visit in 2016, attractive for its low

MARIACHI BANDS CRUISE THROUGH XOCHIMILCO...

...AS DO VENDORS SELLING DELICIOUS TAMALES

peso and its high culture—a hub for contemporary architecture, fine museums and a frenzied nightlife scene. As the Times says, “There is no more exciting place to eat.”

THE OLD NEIGHBOURHOOD OF XOCHIMILCO is an unexpected salve— a town-within-a-city made up of narrow waterways and

small floating farms called chinampas. The region was settled in pre-Hispanic days, and aside from some power lines and the occasional motor boat, not a lot has changed. Residents paddle canoes, kids swim in the shallow water and dogs nap along the shaded banks. Fleets of brightly painted flat-bottomed boats called trajineras take visitors through these canals,

propelled by gondoliers armed with long poles. On the weekends Xochimilco is a popular destination for picnics on the boats’ long tables, and groups of teenagers drinking beer and listening to music. Trajineras with Mariachi bands and portable quesadilla grills patrol the waterways, too, tying up for customers looking for entertainment or lunch. At noon on SUMMER 2016 AWAY 33

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SIP SOME PULQUE AT EL TEMPLO DE DIANA

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK TK TK TKTK

TREAT YOURSELF AT MAXIMO BISTROT...

...WHERE YOU CAN FIND THE FRESHEST CEVICHE

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a weekday, however, you can pretty much have the place to yourself. I had visited Mexico City for the first time last year during a backpacking trip across Mexico. After a week of walking the city’s streets, eating roadside tacos and wandering its museums, I decided that trading the grey skies and windchills of Toronto for Mexico’s capital was the ideal antidote to Canadian winter.

I was travelling solo again, but a handful of Mexican friends made on my past trip were keen to show me around, as was my intrepid guide/fixer/ translator and proprietor of Mexico Cultural Travel, Nelsa Ferrugia.

The idea is to get back on the road before the evening rush hour hits (it starts around 3 p.m. and can last until 9), but Xochimilco’s town centre draws us in. A 16th-century Spanish church—built on the site of an Aztec temple in the not-so-subtle style of the conquistadores—towers over a central square filled with Mexican families. They’re strolling and shopping, holding cups of sliced mango seasoned with salt, lime and chile. It’s refreshing to see that, compared to the espresso fixation in the city’s trendier districts, few people here know what a cortado is or particularly care.

After a peek inside the church, Nelsa and I walk through the saloon doors at El Templo de Diana, a tavern specializing in a centuries-old fermented beverage called pulque. Inside it’s dimly lit, with sawdust on the floor and neighbourhood characters sitting on stools sipping giant tankards of the viscous, milky goo. Pulque is available in a range of flavours, from the pedestrian (mango, apple) to the dubious (oatmeal, oyster). It’s an acquired taste, but the people-watching makes up for it.

ONE OF THE MOST DIFFICULT THINGS ABOUT spending time in Mexico City is pacing yourself so you can eat everything you want to— it’s a marathon, not a sprint.

That evening, after napping off the pulque, I reconvene with Nelsa for a warm-up pre-dinner at Contramar, a seafood institution in trendy Juarez. Its sidewalk tables are filled with fashionable professionals drinking wine and talking on their phones.

We devour the tuna tostadas, crispy corn tortillas topped with slices of fresh raw hamachi and finished with avocado, lime and crispy fried onions.

We want to order seconds immediately, but that would be a rookie mistake.

Instead, we save ourselves for Maximo Bistrot, a short walk away amid the leafy streets and midcentury apartment buildings of Roma Norte. The bistro’s chef, Eduardo Garcia, spent more than a decade working in French kitchens in the United States before returning to Mexico City to open his own restaurant. Maximo’s austere dining room has since become a gathering place for corporate magnates, government officials and devoted gourmets. The menu changes daily, depending on the season. Seafood is flown in each morning from the Pacific coast. The restaurant’s Wagyu beef is raised on a ranch in the northern state of Durango.

Today’s carte features Garcia’s trademark mix of Mexican and continental dishes: stone crab ceviche, parsley crusted lamb loin and red snapper with cauliflower puree and mole verde, finished with a perfectly tart soursop sorbet topped with diced pineapple.

Comfortably full, particularly with Maximo’s great selection of Mexican wines,

MORE MEXICO CITY PICKS EAT Mercado Roma The city’s covered markets, or mercados, are great places to shop for fresh produce or eat delicious tacos alongside office workers on their lunch break. This food hall takes the mercado to the next level, offering artisanal cheeses and flavoured macarons along with street food staples like tacos and tortas. Unlike your standard mercado, this one has a beer garden in back featuring local craft brews and champagne by the glass. mercadoroma.com SLEEP Las Alcobas This boutique luxury hotel in ritzy Polanco is situated in close proximity to just about everything you’d want to do in Mexico City, including museums, shopping and excellent restaurants (the highly rated Dulce Patria is just downstairs). With Italian linens, massive whirlpool tubs and a selection of handmade botanical soaps at your disposal, it’s the perfect refuge from the buzzing city outside. From $400 a night, lasalcobas.com DRINK Jules Basement This upscale speakeasy is steps away from Las Alcobas, and accessible only through a refrigerator door in the back of a bustling taco joint. A popular late-night spot with the city’s most well-heeled partiers, the decor here is dominated by oversized skulls under glass tables and a ceiling studded with pyramids. A menu combining Prohibition-era cocktails with more contemporary in-house creations and a DJ spinning up-tempo beats, it’s a prime location to enjoy a nightcap or dance until the wee hours. julesbasement.com SUMMER 2016 AWAY 35

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SNACK ON STREET FOOD AT MERCADO ROMA

END THE DAY WITH AN AGUA DIVINA COCKTAIL AT BAR XAMAN

we cab it back to Juarez for a nightcap. Down a dark flight of stairs on a narrow street, Bar Xaman is a relatively new destination for Mexico City’s cabal of mixology-savvy hipsters. The cocktails, mixed at a massive dark marble bar lined with jars of mysterious

botanicals, riff off Mexican ingredients and combine them in unexpected ways. On the barman’s suggestion I order the Agua Divina, a mix of topshelf Casa Dragones blanco tequila, artisanal apricot brandy, guava syrup and a variety of local sage said to have curative

properties. The drink, served in a conical glass nestled in an ice-filled orb, is fiery, earthy and sweet, a complete sensory surprise. Such epiphanies happen often here—yet another side of Mexico City revealing itself seemingly out of nowhere.

FLY Air Canada and AeroMexico offer daily direct flights from Toronto Pearson to Mexico City International Airport.

Four hours and 45 minutes direct from Toronto Pearson

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MEXICO CITY

STAY If you’re in the market for a sleek night’s stay, check out La Valise, a boutique hotel in the trendy Roma Norte neighbourhood. Rooms from $480/night. lavalise.com.mx DO Hop aboard a trajinera at Embarcadero Cuemanco, one of the less busy docks in Xochimilco.

Approximately $25/hour per person.

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GONE WITH THE WIND

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Fairy castles, cave hotels and underground cities: When you’re in Central Turkey, see the big picture from a hot-air balloon

BY IAIN MACMILLAN, PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANÇOIS NADEAU AND RAY O’REILLY

IT’S 4:50A.M. IN UÇHISAR, Turkey. A warm March breeze feels more eerie than comforting. Under a starry but moonless sky, the town of 3,800 is only slightly closer to rising than going to bed. We wait quietly on the narrow cobblestone street just beyond the gate of Taşkonaklar, our lavish cave hotel, for a minibus to arrive in the darkness.

Headlights swing around a corner and my wife, daughter and I climb aboard the empty van, greeted stoically by our driver, who steers the vehicle past the haunting silhouettes of the Cappadocia region’s ubiquitous cave-homes, dwellings carved into enormous Hershey’s Kiss-shaped rock formations called fairy chimneys. We stop at a tiny, nondescript hotel lit only by our transport’s headlights and wait. Our driver—who has said nothing since he picked us up—hops out of the van with no explanation and disappears for close to 15 minutes, leaving the three of us in darkness, wondering what’s actually going on out there.

My wife and daughter are nervously holding hands when the door of the minivan flies open and two serious-faced men hop in. They greet the driver in Arabic with the formal salutation “As-salaam ’alaikum,” and take their seats without acknowledging us. My daughter Meg reflexively breaks the tension with a cheery “Alaikum salaam,” something our family learned on a trip to Morocco two years earlier.

They stare wide-eyed at the three of us—then break into curious smiles.

A short time later, our group of five has joined hundreds of other sleepy tourists from countless countries all over the world at a hotair balloon staging area in the town of Göreme.

Pilots and crew members scurry about, making final preparations for our skyward launch to watch the sun rise.

One of the most popular ballooning destinations in the world, Cappadocia can have as many as 100 colourful orbs floating through its airspace on any given day during the tourist high seasons of summer and fall. Today, in the March off-season, we’ll be one of 35 airships rising skyward in unison for a three-hour glimpse of Anatolia, the centre of Turkey. As the propane ignites noisily, enormous flames roar into the centre of the waking nylon balloons, giving the colourful behemoths more and more shape as they rise off the ground.

Our pre-flight passenger instructions are minimal: “Get into the basket!”

About 20 of us scramble into our wicker bucket. For a few moments, half a dozen frantic men race around the bobbing basket, wrestling with enormous ropes as though they’re trying to control an unruly stallion. I add to the emerging chaos by yelling “Toto! Come back! Oh no! Where’s Toto!?” and realize only the couple with the MEC backpack perched at the other end of our basket speaks English as a first language. At least my Wizard of Oz joke elicits a smile from them. Without warning, we’re aloft, gently floating upwards like nylon

Left: Soaring over the Love Valley—Cappadocia is one of the world’s most popular hot-air ballooning destinations.

Above, left to right: Deflating the balloon after a flight; a perfect landing; shooting skyward with a blast of flame.

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bubbles in a massive fizzy drink, rising up into the inky sky.

The mystical region of Cappadocia begins to unfold below us. Located in Central Anatolia, in the heartland of Turkey, this popular tourist destination is staggering for so many reasons—its undulating, otherworldly landscape, its rich religious and historical significance, its elaborate underground cities and ornate cave dwellings that housed people as little as 20 years ago—that it’s difficult to focus on a single historical period or landscape feature.

Craggy canyons and hoodoo-like rock formations abound, produced by dormant nearby volcanoes and uniquely shaped by millions of years of erosion. The omnipresent fairy chimneys, as well as the uncountable number of caves carved into hillsides (some of which have been turned into hotels, like the one we stayed at) and deeply scoured canyons are yours to explore with a good pair of shoes and an inquisitive mind. Beneath the ground lie more than 30 intricate cities; the one we toured is eight levels deep and once protected more than 30,000 people from marauders.

The human history in Cappadocia goes back thousands of years, from Neolithic cavemen to the Assyrian colonies and Hittite and Tabal societies that were in charge around 2,000 BC. They were followed by Persians, Romans,

early Christians, Arabs, Mongols, Seljuks, Ottomans and, today, five Canadians floating by in a hot-air balloon.

DAWN IS CLOSE. Despite everyone’s excitement and sensory overload, conversation in the basket is muted, only slightly above a whisper. But as if on cue, our serenity is broken suddenly by the wailing voices from countless minares (Turkish for minaret) broadcasting the first of five daily calls to prayer. Our basketmates—from Germany, Indonesia, Canada and Japan—would later tell us how moving the sounds of Islam were as they mingled with the hues of a glorious sunrise. Those kinds of religious experiences have long been part of Cappadocia’s appeal, with many tourists making pilgrimages to the region to be closer to the history of early Christianity.

After all, this is where St. Paul traipsed around in the first century—he’s mentioned twice in the Bible travelling through Cappadocia. Three hundred years later, St. Basil was born in what is today the nearby city of Kayseri, a place that has been continuously inhabited since 3,000 B.C. The single biggest draw to the region remains the cave churches, some of the world’s oldest, that date as far back as 350 A.D. Busloads of tourists flock here to admire the frescoes of Jesus Christ, Mary and

RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCES HAVE LONG BEEN PART OF CAPPADOCIA’S APPEAL

From left: An artisan in NevŞehir, a city dating back to the 8th century; Selime Monastery, one of the largest religious buildings in Cappadocia; frescoes in GÖreme’s Elmali church. Right: Flying high above Cappadocia.

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Left: A warm spring brought out apricot blossoms in March. Above, left to right: The trailhead to the Love Valley hike, just a few minutes from Uchișar; Hyacinth church in the Ihlara valley; a courtyard in nearby ÜrgÜp.

the disciples that adorn the walls and ceilings.

Our pilot reads out altimeter readings until we’re floating one kilometre above the earth’s surface. As the eastern sky continues to brighten, it becomes easy to orient ourselves on the enormous 3D map below. Directly beneath us lie hiking trails we traversed days earlier in the Pigeon, Love and Ihlara Valleys.

The extraordinary natural stone monoliths in the Love Valley are a wonder to behold— appreciated better from the valley floor, these geological oddities are a result of thousands of years of wind and water erosion that have carved the soft underlayer of volcanic tuft rock into pillars topped with large mushroomshaped basalt caps. It felt a little like walking through a forest of stone antennas.

WE’RE DRIFTING BACK towards our home base in Uçhisar, one of the region’s popular tourist towns, which is surrounded by its natural landmark, a monolithic volcanic plug known locally as the “castle.” In the opposite direction are the towns of Ürgüp, known by

FLY Turkish Airlines or Air Canada direct from Toronto Pearson to Istanbul’s Ataturk Airport, connecting to either Kayseri or Nevşehir, in Cappadocia.

ISTANBUL

10 hours direct from Toronto Pearson to Istanbul; 70 minutes direct to Nevșehir or Kayseri

travellers for its upscale tourist accommodation, and Göreme, more popular with the backpacker crowd. Both are important tourist towns for the region.

While some pilots manage to ride gusts and land bullseye onto their transport trailers, we bump across a farm field with a noisy ground crew trying desperately to stake our ropes, which drag like anchors from the basket, into the ground.

In these selfie-stick and GoPro times, the second command of the day (“Crouch!

Everyone crouch!”) isn’t heeded by everyone aboard as we bump along and our pilot furiously dumps air from the balloon to try and prevent our basket from tipping over and spilling our giggly mass into the furrows.

Suddenly, we’re on solid ground. The dream is over. A bottle of bubbly is cracked open and poured around. We raise our glasses and take a sip, momentarily forgetting that we’re in a predominantly Muslim country. The carbonated apple juice takes us by surprise, but goes down just fine.

NEVŞEHIR

KAYSERI

STAY Spooned out of the hillside eons ago, Hotel Taşkonaklar was recently renovated into 23 posh cave suites. With spectacular views of snow-capped Mount Erciyes, luxury rooms come with private terraces, fireplaces, hot tubs and on-site fine dining. A one-minute stroll from the centre of Uçhisar. Rooms from $175/night. taskonaklar.com DO Guides are indispensable. Try Ali Coşkuner, who will custom create a truly memorable itinerary (AnaHitaTravel.com). Standard flights on a hot-air balloon start at around $230 in high season. discoveryballoons.com SUMMER 2016 AWAY 43

LA DOLCE VITA Selfie-snapping at Castel Sant’Angelo. St. Peter’s Basilica looms in the distance

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Roman Holiday

Classic sculptures. Awe-inspiring architecture. Selfies. Photographer Simon Willms offers a modern snapshot of the ancient Italian capital

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QUANDO À ROMA Clockwise, from above: Roman sculpture at the Biblioteca di Storia Moderna e Contemporanea, a public library in the popular Palazzo Mattei di Giove; checking e-mail on the cobblestone streets of central Rome; stopping to smell the roses in a church doorway; peeping on a photo in progress outside the Vatican Museum; preserving the moment over the River Tiber

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L

ast spring, I travelled to Rome for the first time to celebrate my father’s 70th birthday. My eyes were wide in disbelief. As a photographer, I was immediately struck by the contrast between ordinary people and the backdrop of the extraordinary, ancient city: indifferent schoolgirls on their phones at the base of the Column of the Immaculate Conception; exhausted tourists mapping a route in front of the Fountain of the Pantheon; lovers taking selfies at the Castel Sant’ Angelo. I saw people walking into rooms at the Vatican, snapping photos—of what, they weren’t sure. And I’ve never seen so many selfiesticks; vendors sold them everywhere. Ultimately, we’re all trying to document our own version of history. But Rome is too big, too grand, too much. Around every corner, something else awaits to bring you to your knees.

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LA STRADA Clockwise from far left:

Eight hours direct from Toronto on Air Canada

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Strolling through downtown Rome; a bust in the Borghese Gardens, the third largest public park in Rome; making calls at the Column of The Immaculate Conception, near the Spanish Steps; dining al fresco at Coso Ristorante on Via in Lucina

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d e tour s

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CITY GUIDES DESIGNED BY EXPERTS

Two hours east of Portland, the Maryhill Museum of Art is home to the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of Paris

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d e to u r s

PORTLAND

This quirky, literary West Coast town doesn’t care what you think about it

YOUR GUIDE Thomas Lauderdale once had his eye on the mayoralty of Portland, but his duties as bandleader for international music sensation Pink Martini got in the way.

The band’s new album is scheduled for release this fall.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD The area around Mississippi Avenue has gone from 0 to 100 in less than five years. But the rapid growth hasn’t diminished the scruffy and scrappy spirit of its many shops and restaurants. Mississippiave.com HOTEL If there’s a place in town where you’d feel you were walking onto the set of Portlandia, it would be the Ace. Very hipster. Everybody looks well-pressed, not scrappy. Rooms with shared bathroom from $255; standard rooms from $385.

Acehotel.com/Portland NIGHT ON THE TOWN Host to innumerable live shows, the Crystal Ballroom’s dancefloor, installed in 1914 for ballroom dancing, floats atop rockers and ball bearings, putting a spring in the step of partiers. Mcmenamins.com/CrystalBallroom ATTRACTION Established in 1971, Powell’s is the world’s largest concrete-and-mortar used and new bookstore. Open every day until 11 p.m., it’s always packed, rivalling city hall as the heart of downtown. Powells.com EAT WITH THE LOCALS Luclac Vietnamese Kitchen is the best, the cheapest and right downtown. They have the best cocktail, called Hello & Goodbye, and the beef is to die for. Luclackitchen.com CULTURAL VENUE Based in the 2,800-seat Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, the Oregon Symphony has being experiencing a renaissance, attracting a broad, much younger audience. They’ve become world class in the past decade. Orsymphony.org

STUFF Spritz on some Victory Wolf cologne from Milk Milk Lemonade.

Milkmilk lemonade. virb.com

Five hours direct from Toronto on Air Canada PORTLAND

PHOTOGRAPHS: (PREVIOUS PAGE) JOSH PARTEE; ACE HOTEL BY JEREMY PELLEY

Historically, Portland is one of the cheapest major cities on the West Coast, which helps define its great vibe.

It’s been podunk and doesn’t care. It’s also a literary town.

Authors like Ursula K. Le Guin, Tom Spanbauer, the poet Matthew Dickman and Cheryl Strayed live here, as did the late Katherine Dunn.

In recent years, between Portlandia and coverage in the New York Times, there’s been a general rush to the city. Portland has become much more diverse, though rents have skyrocketed.

Visitors expect things to be a little kookier than they really are, but compared to other big towns, there’s a friendliness and kindness. And the quality of life is very high, especially with the proximity to mountains, rainforest, high desert and ocean.

ZAGREB

The tiny Croatian capital might have the per-capita record for European cool

PHOTOGRAPHS: ATTRACTION, iSTOCKPHOTO; CULTURAL VENUE BY DAMAR ZIZIC

Zagreb is small enough to be walkable, and cosmopolitan enough to be an excellent destination, not just for its scenic cityscape but increasingly now for its cultural events. You’ll see a mix of different heritages in this city—most notably AustroHungarian, Ottoman and Italian (mostly Venetian) influences, which visitors will notice in the architecture, cuisine and general mindset of the population.

In terms of both the people and the landscape, Zagreb feels closely knit and familiar. There’s a cultural and gastronomical renaissance going on here, too. Chefs, artists and businesspeople have travelled the world and absorbed lots, which they are now bringing back home with suitably buzzy results.

YOUR GUIDE Anthropologist and writer Andrea Pisac lived in London for a decade before returning to Croatia.

On her blog, Travelhonestly. com, she’s as likely to explore the social history of sausage as where to find the best street murals.

ATTRACTION The Lenuci, or Green Horseshoe, comprises parks forming a U-shape in Zagreb’s downtown. The most charming, Zrinjevac, is home to the 19th Century Art Pavilion, the Modern Gallery and the Archaeological Museum.

CULTURAL VENUE A cross between a gallery and event space, Lauba holds an impressive private collection of modern and postmodern Croatian art. The grand renovated building was once an Austro-Hungarian riding stable, then a weaving mill. Lauba.hr

WINE BAR An excellent list of more than 150 domestic varieties and small dishes made from locally sourced ingredients makes Sherry’s Wine & Bites one of the best spots in the city for drinks.

Sherrys.eu

STUFF 1. This cute bag from the Croatia Design Superstore contains a cookbook and a food game.

2. Boya crayons make a perfect souvenir for creative types.

Croatiandesignsuperstore.com 3. Borovo produces a range of eyecatching handmade canvas trainers and espadrilles. Borovo.hr NATIVE CUISINE Coastal Dalmatian cuisine tends to be lean, while continental Croatian cooking is heartier, with lots of pickles and cheeses. Vinodol does both very well, in a comfy atmosphere. Vinodol-zg.hr

HOTEL The owner of the boutique Hotel President is an art collector and an architect. Each room features original artwork by Croatian masters and has access to a lush private garden. Rooms from $165.

President-zagreb.com

ZAGREB

Nine hours direct from Toronto on Air Transat

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 53

d e to u r s

BERLIN

It’s ever evolving, from the fall of the Wall to its current, artsy incarnation

YOUR GUIDE World traveller and art lover Kerstin Pfirrmann spent several years abroad as a diplomat before settling in Berlin, where she enjoys discovering new things about the city every day.

54 AWAY SUMMER 2016

ATTRACTION Don’t leave without seeing the remnants of the Berlin Wall, a stark symbol of the Cold War that divided the city until 1989.

LUNCH Lavanderia Vecchia serves excellent and inexpensive Italian food in a remodelled old laundromat space. lavanderiavecchia.wordpress. com HOTEL Luxe Hotel Adlon is located near the Brandenburg Gate and is legendary for its service. For a more surprising choice, check in to a jungle room at 25Hours Bikini Berlin, right, which boasts a whimsical interior design and overlooks the Berlin Zoo. From $250 a night. bikiniberlin.de COCKTAILS Reingold is the speakeasy gold standard. Ring a doorbell and enter a red-lit space where you can sample an impressive selection of boozy cocktails. reingold.de

NEIGHBOURHOOD Mitte, Berlin’s central borough and historical hub, has developed a distinct creative vibe and is filled with many trendy shops and restaurants.

Close to 10 hours (indirect) from Toronto via Air Canada and Lufthansa

BERLIN

PHOTOGRAPHS: ATTRACTION BY STANISLAV KRASILNIKOV/GETTY; HOTEL BY STEPHAN LEMKE FOR 25HOURS HOTELS; COCKTAIL BY iSTOCKPHOTO; NEIGHBOURHOOD BY WILKOSZ AND WAY

After living in Berlin for several years, I still find it impossible to know the city.

Berlin is a shape-shifter, a place that forever reinvents itself, one scene at a time. In its current incarnation, it is a lively arts hub with brilliant cultural institutions and a constantly buzzing nightlife. It’s stylish—indie design mixes with populist brands and vintage boutiques on fashionable Neue Schönhauser Straße. It’s diverse—you’ll hear a chorus of international languages at bars and restaurants in the hip borough of Neukölln, in the southeast part of the city.

You’ll see a new city every time you come, whether you’re here for the stunning architecture or to raise a few dozen pints during Oktoberfest.

LONDON

PHOTOGRAPHS: ATTRACTION, COURTESY TFL FROM LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM COLLECTION; SHOPPING BY STEPHEN MORRIS; HOTEL COURTESY AMPERSAND HOTEL

When you’re travelling with kids, the city becomes the ultimate amusement park In the late 1970s, my Middle Eastern family escaped our revolution-rocked native land and eventually settled in an idyllic village called Chalfont St. Peter, just outside London. It was like moving into an Enid Blyton novel, complete with gingerbread cottages, ivycovered grammar schools and apple-cheeked shopkeepers. On the weekends, we drove into the city for three things: the toy department at Harrod’s, a movie theatre in Leicester Square and lunch at McDonald’s.

For any kid back then, that was the height of excitement. But 30 years later, when I took my seven-yearold son to London for his first time, we opted for a more sophisticated menu.

In the greatest city in the world, the old school thrills remain—and they’re literally sugar-coated. (Check out the crazy cereal selection.)

YOUR GUIDE Born in Tehran, Maryam Sanati moved with her family to London—and, eventually, Toronto—after fleeing the Iranian Revolution. A veteran journalist, she is the editorial director of Away.

ATTRACTION The totally hands-on London Transport Museum in Covent Garden lets kids drive an Underground train simulator and get behind the wheel of a doubledecker bus. Plus: best gift shop ever. ltmuseum.co.uk STUFF 1. Pick up bold, graphic home decor from Darkroom, an indie design label with a blackpainted shop in Bloomsbury. darkroomlondon.com 2. For mom: a gorgeous Victorian scent from the perfume house Penhaligon’s (est. 1870). penhaligons.com

STORE The redesigned Foyles flagship on Charing Cross Road houses 200,000 titles covering 6.5 km of shelving. foyles.co.uk SURPRISE Amazingly worth it: a tour of Buckingham Palace followed by tea and sandwiches in the royal garden café. royalcollection. org.uk

BREAKFAST Shoreditch’s Cereal Killer Café serves about 100 different mueslis, mini wheats and frosted Os. cerealkillercafe. co.uk

ART DESTINATION The Saatchi Gallery off the King’s Road is an innovative, sprawling venue devoted to mixing up undiscovered artists with international art-world stars. saatchigallery.com HOTEL Occupying an 1889 building, the Ampersand is a boutique hotel in the perfect location—a short walk to the Victoria and Albert and Natural History Museum. From $400 a night; the stuff in the mini fridge is FREE. ampersandhotel.com

Seven hours direct from Toronto on Air Canada

LONDON

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 55

WAY F I N D e r HOW TO NAVIGATE TORONTO PEARSON

409

AIRPORT ROAD

427

TERMINAL 3

INFO

MAPS BY ALICE CHO

For online guides to Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, go to torontopearson.com

TERMINAL 1

Terminal Link Train UP Express

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 57

wa y f i n d e r

D28 TO GATES D1–D12

D9

D8 D7

D10

D5

D11

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

40 41 42 43 44 45 46

A&W Booster Juice Caffè di Calabria Caffè Ritazza Camden Food Co. Cibo Express Gourmet Markets Extreme Pita Farmers Market The Great Canadian Bagel The Marketplace Purblendz Starbucks Starbucks Starbucks Thai Express Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Upper Crust

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

Burberry Bvlgari Coach Gucci Longchamp Longines Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling Michael Kors Montblanc Omega Rado Salvatore Ferragamo Swarovski Tissot Tumi Victoria’s Secret Victoria’s Secret

HEALTH & BEAUTY

:10 Minute Manicure :10 Minute Manicure Aveda The Body Shop Jo Malone MAC Cosmetics MAC Cosmetics by Nuance

58 AWAY SUMMER 2016

48

D22

D6 57

T1 RETAIL INDEX

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

D3 D1

Canada, USA and International arrivals and departures

CAFÉS & SNACKS

D24

D12

TERMINAL 1

19

D26

61

D4

105

8

D20 77

Nearest Gate

D37 F57 E/F70 E/F81 D33 F61 D45 D4 F89 D45 D45 D45 F62 E75 D45 D51 F66 E74 D26 F57 E75 E76 E75 E76 E75 E76 D40 D20 F62 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E77 E75 D20 F57 D37 D20 D37 D20 D20 F64

47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58

59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75

76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92

NEWS & BOOKS

Ink Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Streetcar Newstand Watermark

RESTAURANTS & BARS

Apropos Asobu Bar 120: Cuisine Transformed Bento Sushi Boccone Pronto Boccone Trattoria Fetta The Hearth Heirloom Bakery Café Lee Kitchen Marathi Mill St. Brewery Red Rocket True Burger Co. Twist by Roger Mooking Vinifera Wahlburgers

RETAIL SERVICES

CIBC Banking Centre CIBC Banking Centre CIBC Banking Centre CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM Plaza Premium Lounge Plaza Premium Lounge Plaza Premium Lounge Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine

Nearest Gate

D/F51 D22 D42 F83 D/F57 E77 F61 F66 E75 D35 D4 D20

F62,63 E74 D20 D22 F57 D39 E73 F60 E75 E73 E78 D20 D/F51 E74 D36 E76 F67 D31 D31 F61 D33 F66 E79 E72 E77 D20 F82 D51 E76 F60 D33 F65 D20 F57

D31

L1 Level 1

106

5

D33 D35 D37 D39

93 41

43 1

64

99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113

73

D38

49

7, 10-12, 15

D44

97 98

89

99-100, 98 108

27

D40 D41 D42 D43

93 94 95 96

79

56

SPECIALTY STORES

Davids Tea The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Liquor Store

by Nuance Duty Free Wine by Nuance Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post iStore Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory The Scoreboard The Source The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine Sunglass Hut TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox

D45

Nearest Gate

D35 E76 F57 F61

F62 D38 D36 D36 F63 D31 F62 E74 D20 D31 F64 D36 F67 F66 F69 F68 E77

D36

PARKING

L2 Level 2 L1 Level 1 62 70 28, 39

91

42, 44-45

58

84

PUBLIC AREA 16

102 76

50

86 47

9

TO GATES F84–99

71

51

D51 F51

D53 F53

D32 F32

D55 F55

40

63

D57 F57

D34 F34 F36

85 20

95

97, 101 103 59

59

29 90

75

109

F67

Types of ATMs available include: CIBC, Travelex, Plus, Cirrus

E 72 F 72

13

SERVICES

Bathroom Nursing Station Info Escalator Elevator Airline Service Lounge TTY Bus Bay Government Services Connection Centre Play Area

F64a/b

107

46

54

Over 40 ATMs are available throughout the airport

E 71 F 71

F60 F62

80

ATMs

E70 F70

D Canada E International F USA

88

6

F61

GATES

66 96

78

F65

F82

92

53

F63

110

17

F66a/b

E69 F69

111

82

68

65

3 18

F84–99

F83

2

E 68 F68

E80 F80

14 87

55

37

60,72 21, 23, 22, 24, 26, 104 25, 38 30-36

E 73 F 73

E81 F81

67

94

4

112 81

83 69

113 52

E 79 F 79

E 78 F 78

74

E 77

E 74 E 75

E 76

SUMMER 2016 AWAY 59

wa y f i n d e r 11

7

35

53

61

26 10

L2 Level 2

B5

15 48

L1 Level 1

B4

56

36

B3

B1a

B2c B2a

16

8

B1b B1c B1d

L1 Level 1

A13 A14

30 60

A15

3

TERMINAL 3

A16

Canada, USA and International arrivals and departures

A17

A18 B18

T3 RETAIL INDEX

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

CAFÉS & SNACKS

Freshii Meteor Starbucks Starbucks Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons

FASHION & ACCESSORIES 9 Metalsmiths Sterling 10 Metalsmiths Sterling

11 12

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

HEALTH & BEAUTY

Be Relax Be Relax

NEWS & BOOKS

Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Streetcar Skyhealth Pharmacy Vending Machine

60 AWAY SUMMER 2016

B17

Nearest Gate

A/B19 A10 A14 B39 B22 B26 B3 B1 B27 B3 B5 C36 A11 B22 B4 B1 C33 B28 B26 A10 C30

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

RESTAURANTS & BARS

Acer Caplansky’s Deli The Cork & Well Corso The Distillery Fionn MacCool’s Heirloom Bakery Café Ice Bar Nobel Burger Bar Paramount Fine Foods Urban Crave Vinifera RETAIL SERVICES

CIBC Banking Centre CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM Plaza Premium Lounge Plaza Premium Lounge Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine

Nearest Gate

C36 B39 A/B19 B29 B3 B24 C31 C33 A13 C33 A13 C32 B26 B3 B1 B24 A10 B28 B24 C32 B39 C33 A11 B22 A11

47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61

SPECIALTY STORES

Davids Tea Discover Canada The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox

Nearest Gate

B27 B4 B40 C36 C30 A11 B4 B28 C32 B2 C30 B40 A11 A14 B4

24

1

A7

A6

A8

PARKING

A9 A10

38 44

A11

52

2

20

PUBLIC AREA

45,46

A12 59

14

40

13

37 27

5 32

B24 34

B 22 B25 A20 B20

19

6

B26

A19 B19 B 27

GATES

A USA B Canada/Int.

47

SERVICES

Bathroom Nursing Station Info Escalator Elevator Airline Service Lounge TTY Bus Bay Government Services Connection Centre Play Area

B 28

B 29

25

9

58

B 40

23 4

54 42

B 39 B 38 B37

C30 51

C31 28

ATMs

57 21 55 41

Over 40 ATMs are available throughout the airport Types of ATMs available include: CIBC, Travelex, Plus, Cirrus

18 39

B 41

49

50 12 29, 31 17

C32

33

C33

22

C36

43

C34

C35

jet age

SAFE PASSAGE

It resembled something odd and possibly ancient: the carapace of a massive alien bug, the hollowed-out shell of a dinosaur egg, the inverted hull of a landlocked ship.

But as Doris Boudreau cheerily strode down the carpeted interior of the curious structure in Pearson’s new Terminal 2 on a spring day in 1972, she was taking a step into commercial aviation’s future. Known as the “people-frisker,” the device represented a new frontier in airline security. Now, without intrusive manipulations, authorities were able to detect hidden metallic objects on passengers— a knife shoved in a boot, a pistol stashed in a valise. As rudimentary as the technology may have been, it stands as a precursor to the screening measures that exist today, a sophisticated array of tools in place to ensure travellers remain safe and secure when they’re winging through the skies.

FROM THE ARCHIVES

1972

62 AWAY SUMMER 2016

REG INNEL/TORONTO STAR/ GETTY

The “people-frisker” makes its Pearson debut

Luxury That Travels 40 locations in North America 5 locations at Toronto Pearson International Airport Terminal 1, After-Security, Level 2 Gates

Terminal 1, After-Security, Level 2 Gates

Terminal 3, After-Security, Departures Level

Terminal 3, After-Security, Departures Level

metalsmiths.com

Terminal 1, After-Security (USA Transborder), Level 2 Gates

The easy way to pay is here.

CIBC now has Apple Pay.

No wallet? No problem. Pay with your CIBC debit and credit cards straight from your iPhone or Apple Watch.* It’s fast, secure and simple. Just another way CIBC fits your life.

cibc.com/apple-pay

*Apple Pay works with iPhone 6 and later and Apple Watch in stores, and iPhone 6 and later, iPad Pro, iPad Air 2, and iPad mini 3 and later within apps. For a list of compatible Apple Pay devices, see www.apple.com/ca/apple-pay.