AWAY FALL 2016 ENGLISH

ee fr

A GlobAl Guide to trAvel, ShoppinG And Fun ii FAll 2016

Spanish

Style drink, dance and ride in andalusia

Plus art in texas, eating singapore, the best island resorts and More

the insiders’ guide to shanghai, BrisBane, nashville and santiago

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Visit amexcloud10.ca to discover premium travel benefits.* *Only on select cards. Terms and Conditions apply. TM, ®: Used by Amex Bank of Canada under license from American Express. ®*: Aeroplan and AeroplanPlus are registered trademarks of Aimia Canada Inc. ®†, TM†: Trademarks of AIR MILES International Trading B.V. Used under license by LoyaltyOne, Inc. and Amex Bank of Canada. †Conditions apply. Select American Express® Cards are eligible for this beneft: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express Corporate Platinum Card, and the American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. ††Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge Access is a card beneft available to: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The American Express AeroplanPlus Corporate Platinum Card. Plaza Premium Lounge Access is a card beneft available to: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AIR MILES®† Reserve Credit Card, The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, and The American Express Corporate Platinum Card. †††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible for this beneft: The Centurion ® Card from American Express, The Platinum Card® from American Express, The American Express® AeroplanPlus®* Platinum Card, and The Business Platinum Card® from American Express. Toronto Pearson Valet Care Service – Basic and Supplementary Platinum Card members must present a valid, unexpired Platinum Card when picking up vehicle for $25 Valet fee to be waived, provided the associated parking fee is charged to your Platinum Card. Waived fee applies only to Toronto Pearson Airport Valet Services in Terminal 1 and 3. For more information on Valet Service visit torontopearson.com. ††††Select Canadian American Express Cards are eligible for this beneft: The Centurion® card from American Express, the American Express Platinum Card, the American Express AeroplanPlus Platinum Card, and The Business Platinum Card from American Express.

Fall 2016

volume 2, issue 4

Shanghai p54

Jerez de la fronTera

SanTiago p51

p28

Marfa Singapore

p44

p36

where we’re going in this issue... p53

p55

BriSBane TurkS and CaiCoS

naShville

p23

explorer

23 28

PHOTOGRAPH by liz sullivAn

36 44

How to Do Nothing in Paradise

A lazy beach vacation in Turks and Caicos takes some getting used to They Reign in Spain

Horses, sherry and flamenco help define Jerez de la Frontera Temptation Island

A multi-day quest for Singapore’s tastiest foods Somewhere in Texas

How Marfa became an art-world Mecca

p28 ON THE COVER ii Jerez de la Frontera. Photograph by Clint Mclean fall 2016 away 3

p11

p18

INSIDER 9 ii On the Ground Birds of

prey keep Toronto Pearson’s airspace clear

10 ii Checking in We chat

up travellers in the departure lounges

12 ii anatomy Breaking down the stats on an impressive emergency exercise 15 ii Pearson Person Public

the list

p55

d e to u r s

17 ii air Fare At Vinifera, fantastic wines touch down in Terminal 1

51 ii Santiago Art city. Your

18 ii Style and Beauty Ramp

the rise. Your guide: radio announcer Blair Allsop

up your carry-on game with four stylish satchels

guide: artist Rodrigo Ardiles

53 ii Brisbane Australia on

19 ii Gifts Keep time while

racing to the gate

54 ii Shanghai Architecture in balance. Your guide: ad exec Summer Kwon

20 ii Et Cetera Five totally

55 ii Nashville Music City

entertaining ways to kill time 4 away fall 2016

delivers. Your guide: journalist Sarah Boesveld

wa y f i n d e r 57 ii Maps Navigating Toronto Pearson Terminal 1 and Terminal 3

jet age 62 ii an udder triumph In 1946,

Canada’s first cattle shipment takes to the sky

PHOTOGRAPHS BY liAm mOGAn; mAY TRuOnG; HATcH SHOw PRinT cOuRTeSY THe cOunTRY muSic HAll Of fAme

safety officer Stephanie Atherley goes on patrol

EE FR

fall 2016 voLume 2, iSSue 4

A GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRAVEL, SHOPPING AND FUN II FALL 2016

Co-Publishers Deborah trepanier, Douglas kelly editorial editorial director Maryam sanati Managing editor pat lynch art creative director una Janicijevic Photo editor liz ikiriko art director rachel tennenhouse contributing art director adam Cholewa Contributors Dakshana bascaramurty, sarah boesveld, philip Cheung, alice Cho, Denise Dias, paul gallant, Christopher katsarov, reynard li, sarah liss, Jason Mcbride, Clint Mclean, liam Mogan, Maureen ow, liz sullivan, May truong, simon Willms ProduCtion Production director Maria Mendes Production Manager alexandra irving Greater toronto airPorts authority for toronto Pearson international airPort President and ceo Howard eng Vice-President, customer and terminal Services scott Collier director, Passenger Services Janine gervais associate director, Business development, Partnerships and advertising sergio pulla Manager, Passenger experience ryan Ward Senior Representative, Passenger experience beverly MacDonald st. JosePh Media chairman tony gagliano President Douglas knight general Manager and Vice-President, Finance karl percy Vice-President and group Publisher, Women’s group Jacqueline loch Vice-President, Strategic development Duncan Clark Vice-President, Research Clarence poirier Vice-President, Marketing and Production Darlene storey controller Dora brenndorfer ContaCt us For advertising sales: Deborah trepanier deborah.trepanier@stjoseph.com (416) 955-4993 For editorial: aWay 111 Queen street east, suite 320, toronto, ontario M5C 1s2 away@stjosephmedia.com (416) 364-3333

Spanish

STYLE DRINK, DANCE AND RIDE IN ANDALUSIA

Plus ART IN TEXAS, EATING SINGAPORE, THE BEST ISLAND RESORTS and MORE

THE INSIDERS’ GUIDE TO SHANGHAI, BRISBANE, NASHVILLE AND SANTIAGO

also available in a Digital eDition for your Desktop, laptop anD tablet L'édition françaiSe du magazine AwAy eSt égaLement diSponibLe Sur votre ordinateur de bureau, ordinateur portabLe et tabLette

greater toronto airports authority p.o. box 6031, 3111 Convair Drive toronto aMf, ontario l5p 1b2 (416) 776-3000 aWaY is published four times per year by St. Joseph media inc. on behalf of the greater toronto airports authority (gtaa). © 2016. all rights reserved. no part of this periodical may be reproduced in any form without the consent of the gtaa. the gtaa is not responsible for any errors or omissions contained in this publication. printed in Canada by St. Joseph printing.

go to / accÉdez au

ToronTopearson.com

SeaSon 2015 away 5

President’s Letter

safe Travels

Our number one priority at Toronto Pearson is your security

6 away fall 2016

safety and security of each person who passes through Toronto Pearson – and they are deeply committed to leading by example. You’ll get a sense of how we live our values when it comes to your safety and security by reading the story on page 12 about the full-scale emergency exercise we conducted this year. This annual, day-long event allows us to simulate emergency scenarios and test everything from our response times to our proficiency in communicating while in crisis.

I know first-hand that our teams are invested in continuously improving our culture of safety and security at the airport for our employees and passengers from around the world.

Safe travels, Howard Eng

PHOTOGRAPH BY ReYnARd li

At Toronto Pearson, safety is our number one priority; it’s the foundation upon which the whole aviation industry is built and it’s at the core of every decision we make.

We want to ensure that every person who is at the airport is safe while under our care.

That’s equally true for our employees and the millions of travellers for whom the airport is a gateway to the city of Toronto and beyond.

We, along with the businesses at the airport, have created the Safety Matrix to measure the number of injuries that occur at the airport, and we continue to develop programs to decrease the number of injuries. The objective is clear: to reduce injuries by at least five per cent annually until we achieve a zero-injury rate. By following protocol and putting in place key precautionary measures, last year we surpassed this target with a 30 per cent reduction in employee injuries. This is an incredible accomplishment and just one of the reasons Toronto Pearson is a leader among international airports.

This kind of success can only be attained through collaboration. Our approximately 40,000 employees are responsible for the

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INSIDER The secreT life of ToronTo Pearson

Rob Shevalier and Flash, a gyr-peregrine falcon hybrid

ON THE GROUND

winging it

PHOTOGRAPH by PHiliP cHeunG

Birds of prey keep Toronto Pearson’s airspace clear They’re much smaller than a 747, but birds in flight can create giant air-traffic hazards.

To prevent “bird strikes” (avian collisions with aircrafts), Rob Shevalier, a 27-year veteran of Toronto Pearson and the manager of Falcon Environmental Services, fights feathers with feathers: His elite squadron of 30 hawks, falcons and one bald eagle help control the airport’s airspace. “Ever since birds have

flown, they’ve been scared of birds of prey,” says Shevalier. Three years ago, Kamikaze, one of his favourite falcons, broke its leg hitting a pigeon during a 250 km/h dive. Determined not to lose his prey, Kamikaze used his body to push the fowl to the ground. “When I played hockey, my coach called me ‘kamikaze’ because I didn’t know how to stop,” says Shevalier. “My bird and I are alike. We never give up!” fall 2016 away 9

INSIDER

CheCking in

so, where are you going?

Ten travellers pause to tell us about the journey ahead

by raChel tennenhouse photographs by may truong

Who Yaw Boakye-

Yiadom, 27, arts student from Toronto Where Accra, Ghana Why A funeral Listening to Drake Reading Your First Year in Network Marketing by Mark Yarnell, Rene Reid Yarnell and Richard Poe Dream destination “I’d love to go to Dubai. It looks lovely.”

Who Aheicha, 26, bassist from Inner Mongolia Where Beijing, where he lives and works Listening to World music Carry-on A two-string bass Dream destination Home

⬆Who Khalila Kale, 28, administrative

assistant from Toronto Where Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic Why “For fun.”

Reading “About women and babies—on Google.” Dream destination Brazil. “It’s exciting and has a lot of history.”



10 away fall 2016

⬆Who Kai Müller, 38, framer

from Alsenz, Germany Where Home, after vacationing in Chile Reading “A book for work about chemical reactions on the surface of paintings.” Carry-on A wool poncho traditional to the Mapuche Indians Dream destination “Actually, Canada!

I visited Toronto today and I’d like to come back.”

INSIDER

Who Edward Xing, 10,

from Toronto Where Beijing Why To visit relatives and play in a hockey tournament How he’s passing the time Playing an iPad game Dream destination The Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

“I heard it’s really colourful.”

Who Marta Grulelennunez, 27, and nephew Anthony Polanco, 7, from Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic Where Going home Reading The Roaring Girl by Greg Hollingshead How they’re passing the time “Sleeping! We arrived in Toronto at 3 a.m. from Calgary.”



⬆Who Eduard Walther, 83, transport

consultant Where Zurich Why Going home Reading About the Australian outback Dream destination “My favourite city is Vancouver.

My second favourite is Sydney.”

Who Angela, a grade 10 student from Beijing Where Home after studying and travelling in Canada How she’s passing the time Drinking iced coffee Listening to Taylor Swift Dream destination Greece. “I’ve seen the pictures and it’s beautiful.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk



Who Ariel Spanowicz, 23,

environmental science graduate from Montreal Where Beirut Why To visit her boyfriend and his family How she’s passing the time Walking around Duty Free, listening to Pink Floyd Dream destination Bhutan. “I like that it’s not an easy place to get to.” fall 2016 away 11

INSIDER anatomy

EMERGENCy! EMERGENCy! Well, not exactly. When Toronto Pearson staged an emergency exercise, it put first responders to the test photographs by christopher katsarov

15

Pieces of aircraft were scattered about the crash site

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

In May, after five months of planning, Toronto Pearson put on one of the largest full-scale emergency exercises in Canada. An annual requirement of the Canadian Aviation Regulations, the scenario simulated an aircraft with 394 people onboard crashing before landing on a runway.

Volunteers played the role of passengers in distress. Makeup artists added realistic flourishes to their faux injuries. More than 300 responders—comprising fire, police, emergency medical services and Greater Toronto Airports Authority staff— tended to the volunteers’ injuries.

The exercise was an opportunity to test emergency response procedures, from command and control of the scene to communication and training on how to deal with uninjured passengers. We take a look at a few of the details that made the day fly.

12 away fall 2016

344

Volunteers participated in the exercise

21

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

Makeup artists simulated crash injuries including broken bones, impaled objects, shock and heart attacks

fall 2016 away 13

INSIDER

174

External emergency responders took part including fire, police and EMS teams

6.5

Number of hours that the entire exercise took

30

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

Fire trucks were deployed to the site

14 away fall 2016

INSIDER roadways. We escort paramedics to medical calls.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

I like the calls that involve a little bit of investigation.

Working with security operations, we can look up the video and try to figure out who was involved in a particular incident and who we need to find to determine what happened.

Traffic duty must be tricky.

We have what we call PUDO vehicles—pick up, drop off.

As everyone knows, they park right on the side of the road outside the terminals. We pull up behind them, do a little flash of the lights and beep the horn.

Fortunately, people usually get the message. They can park in the free cellphone lot and wait for the call from whoever they’re picking up. It’s only two minutes from the terminal.

pearson person

Out On patrOl

For public safety officer Stephanie Atherley, no mystery goes unsolved at Toronto Pearson

PHOTOGRAPH BY simOn willms

By paul Gallant

For 11 years, Stephanie Atherley mostly fielded calls at Toronto Pearson’s Airport Operations Control Centre.

Then she decided she needed to be on the ground. As part of a team of 14 public safety officers, Atherley now patrols the airport, ensuring that Pearson’s terminals, roadways and parking garages are safe for passengers, employees and tenants. Trained to know every nook and cranny of the property, Atherley can find herself responding to anything from a medical emergency

to an unruly passenger. She’s known for her willingness to jump in and get her hands dirty. She’s also always game for a little detective work.

There’s a lot of security personnel working at Toronto Pearson. How do public safety officers fit in?

We respond to police calls, so that the Greater Toronto Airports Authority knows what’s happening on its property. We respond to silent alarms at passenger screening points. We monitor the

Do you see a lot of bad behaviour?

If a passenger’s flight has been cancelled or delayed, they may get so upset that they scream at the airline agents. But it’s completely out of the airline agents’ hands; they’re just the messengers.

The agents must be happy when they see you coming.

Yes, us and the police. They like to see us defuse the situation. One lady was told she couldn’t travel because her passport was too close to expiring. She was screaming and yelling at the ticket agents.

I got there much sooner than the police did. Then she was screaming and yelling at me, calling me names. But by the time I left her, I had helped her find a hotel and she had given me a hug and told me how wonderful I was. Things can change for the better quickly around here. fall 2016 away 15

the list shop, dine, relax at toronto pearson

At Vinifera, 30 varieties of wine are available by the glass

Air FAre

Grape expectations PHOTOGRAPH by mAy TRuOnG

Fantastic wines touch down in Terminal 1

Vinifera, the cozy wine bar in Terminal 1, offers patrons a place to breathe, imbibe and enjoy. “We wanted to create a sense of place,” says Eric Brinker of OTG, the company responsible for Vinifera’s design and concept.

The sleek aesthetic—warm expanses of glass; generous gateside seating; soaring ceilings— channels the refined aura of an haute urban bistro. The wine list features more than 50

carefully curated bottles—30 of which are available by the glass, including outstanding Ontario offerings such as a toasty 2011 Merlot from Niagara’s Trius, and a buttery 2010 Chardonnay from Casa Dea in Prince Edward County. An iPad-based system even creates wine pairings to complement selections from the seasonally focused small-plate menu. At Vinifera, comfort meets sophistication. fall 2016 away 17

the list

1

2

style and beauty

Bag check Ramp up your carry-on game with these super stylish satchels

3

photographs by liam mogan

4

1 Lolë black tote/backpack, $140, Lolë. 2 Tumi small travel satchel, $415, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

3 Herschel Women’s Bag, $60, Discover Canada. 4 MCM backpack, $950, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

All items available in the newly refurbished Terminal 3.

18 away fall 2016

See Toronto Pearson maps on pages 57-61 for retail locations

1

2

3

Gifts

travel time

A few items for looking great while racing to the gate photoGraph by liam moGan

1 Skagen Hagen leather watch, $215, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

2 DKNY Gansevoort grey titanium watch, $280, The Duty Free Store

by Nuance. 3 Garmin Vivomove fitness tracker watch, $270, iStore.

All items available in the newly refurbished Terminal 3.

See Toronto Pearson maps on pages 57-61 for retail locations fall 2016 away 19

the list

Et cEtEra

Culture break

Five entertaining ways to kill time down on the ground or up in the clouds

1 TV A gloriously meandering show about the wide swath of characters whose lives are touched by The Guy, a roving pot dealer, High Maintenance premiered online in 2012 and quickly became a cult hit. eventually, it caught the attention of execs at HBO, who announced they’d picked it up in the spring of 2015. More than a year later, The Guy and his ragtag contacts make their foulmouthed cable network debut. (HBo, sept. 16) The show that gave us stars Hollow, hyper-speed quipping and Melissa McCarthy returns with The Gilmore Girls: a Year in the Life, a series of 20 away fall 2016

four 90-minute movies, each spanning a season. Rory’s a journalist, mom Lorelei still runs her inn and grumpy Luke may or not be behind the counter at the diner. expect the Rory and dean/Jess/Logan dilemmas to resurface. (netflix, nov. 25) 2 MUSIC Continuing the comeback jag they kicked off more than a decade ago, late-’80s college-rock icons the Pixies return with their second postreunion collection of fresh material.

Like 2014’s three-eP collection, indie cindy, Head carrier was recorded without Kim deal, who quit the band in 2013—though the new LP does

include a so-called “thank-you” letter from founding member Frank Black to the original bassist. (sept. 30) with their mix of hip hop–infused beats and traditional pow wow rhythms and chants, a tribe called red challenge genre conventions and obliterate our preconceived notions of what dance music sounds like— and says. On We are the Halluci Nation, superlative guests help ATCR further expand that vision. From the urgency of Tanya Tagaq’s throat singing on “sila” to the rhymes Yasiin Bey (a.k.a. Mos def) spits on “R.e.d.,” the crew’s jams are amplified with new textures and gravitas. (sept. 21).

PHOTOGRAPHs: HigH Maintenance, HBO CAnAdA; gilMore girls, wARneR BROs

1

4

3

PHOTOGRAPHs: VincenT VAn GOGH, The STarry NighT Over The rhONe aT arleS, 1888, Musée d’ORsAy; Willie nelsOn, by JAMes MincHin; COmmONwealTh, HARPeR cOllins; The magNifiCeNT SeveN, cOluMbiA PicTuRes

2

5

before his death in 2013 at the ripe old age of 87, country Music Hall of Famer Ray Price delivered dozens of country & western classics in his rich, resonant baritone. He was also a longtime pal to twangy renegade Willie Nelson, who honours his late, great buddy on The Good Times: A Tribute to Ray Price, a collection of lush gems and swingy standards recorded in collaboration with ace nashville band The Time Jumpers. (Sept. 16) 3 ART countless college students have snoozed beneath poster-sized renderings of Van Gogh’s starry, starry night

and Monet’s diaphanous water lilies.

This fall, Mystical Landscapes (a collaboration with Paris’s Musée d’Orsay) brings those transcendent images, in their original form, to the Art Gallery of Ontario. it’s an incredible chance to check out paintings you’ve long dreamed of—or under. (from Oct. 22; 317 Dundas St. w.)

4 FICTION sprawling family sagas don’t get smarter—or messier—than Commonwealth, the latest from award-winning author and essayist Ann Patchett. A rogue smooch at a daughter’s christening party catalyzes the formation of a blended

clan, whose misadventures become fodder, years later, for a novel written by the same daughter’s paramour.

An exquisite balance of hilarity and pathos. (harperCollins, Sept. 13) 5 FILM A snazzy remake of the classic ’60s western based on an indelible Japanese samurai film, The Magnificent Seven assembles an unlikely combo of stars (denzel Washington, chris Pratt and ethan Hawke among them) to play the gun-toting outlaws tapped by a team of desperate villagers to protect their tiny town from the ravages of a mercenary mogul and his heartless crew. (Sept. 23) fall 2016 away 21

explorer

How to

do nothing in paradise

A lazy beach vacation in celebrity-endorsed Turks and Caicos takes some getting used to

By MaryaM SanaTI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

T

he hardest part about letting your hair down on a beach holiday is... letting your hair down on a beach holiday. I realize how that sounds, and I’m not asking anyone to break out the violins. But hear me out. Like many of you, I’m a working parent living in the modern world. The idea of having a few minutes to myself on a normal day is so foreign to me that the prospect of spending four whole days by myself at a beach idyll sends me into shock, and that’s exactly what happened this spring when Turks and Caicos beckoned, with its cerulean waters, its perfect climate and its nothing-to-dobut-hang-out greatness that is precisely the opposite of the way I’ve chosen to spend holidays. During a typical day, most of us calibrate our lives to a constant urban thrum.

We depend on multitasking and we’re terrible at saying no to people, so that boxes us into corners all the time, leaving no time to do the basic minimum—in my case, blowdrying my hair in the morning, or making anyone other than a child a proper lunch.

fall 2016 away 23

explorer

Grace Bay is considered the world’s Best stretch of Beach

STay The Gansevoort Turks and Caicos has 91 studios and suites ranging from 620 square feet to 3,702 square feet. Rates are from $495 to $7,750 a night. gansevoorttc.com DO For a little company while you’re hanging out, the Provo-based charity Potcake Place—”potcake” means street dog—allows visitors to foster rescue pups for a few hours and take them out to play. potcakeplace.com

3.5 hours direct from Toronto Pearson clockwise FRoM ToP leFT: Turks and Caicos sand is super fine with pinky hues, the result of coral and shells naturally breaking down to a powder; the Gansevoort Turks and Caicos; The Sanctuary, for sale on Donna Karan’s island compound at Parrot Cay. “Price on request.” Inset: Kendall and Kylie Jenner celebrated Kylie’s 19th birthday in Turks and Caicos in August.

24 away fall 2016

PRovIdenCIAles

PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP lefT, TuRkS And CAiCOS TOuRiSm; GAnSevOORT, COuRTeSy THe GAnSevOORT; THe JenneRS, dAvid livinGSTOn/GeTTy; THe SAnCTuARy, CHRiSTie’S inTeRnATiOnAl ReAl eSTATe

FLy WestJet and Air Canada offer direct flights to the international airport at Providenciales (otherwise known as Provo), the main hub of the Turks and Caicos Islands.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

What’s more, my fondness for packing too much in is hereditary. When my beloved grandmother took her children on holiday with her, she would wake them up before six in the morning, a guidebook in hand, and march them out onto the streets to see the monuments. They wouldn’t come back until nightfall. “She didn’t want to miss anything,” my mother explains. I’m the same way. Send me to New York or London and I’ll get my money’s worth of coverage—all the culture, history and artisanal cheeses a person can possibly find.

So it’s a very curious thing indeed to just go somewhere and not move. Standing on my oceanfront balcony at the Gansevoort Turks and Caicos (a boutique temple with 91 guestrooms, including 32 suites and four penthouses), I looked at the placid waves lapping Grace Bay, a beach with sand the texture of icing sugar. It’s considered the finest stretch of beach in the world. The very first time I stood on that balcony, my brain fell completely out of sync with my body— my racing mind was somewhere back in the city, three-and-a-half hours away by plane; my tired old bones were rooted in place.

Earlier in the day, I arrived at the Gansevoort’s picturesque entranceway for the very first time. A handful of new bicycles were neatly arranged by the door—free for guests to take for a workout ride or a leisurely pedal to the ice cream shop and bookstore nearby. “I’ll be seeing you later,” I said to one.

Composed and contemporary, the openair lobby of the hotel led to a courtyard draped in white curtains that undulated in the tropical breeze. One second, I was looking at them flapping, the next I felt like I’d been hit by an invisible tranquilizer dart.

I saw a beautiful tray coming to me holding an iced aromatherapy-scented towel and a frosty, fruity punch. “Welcome to the Gansevoort,” said the dulcet tones of someone clearly more used to this than I. Looking straight ahead, I saw past the vast, angular pool dominating the courtyard, to the space between the white, low-rise buildings and down a perfectly positioned private boardwalk that led off to a stretch of empty beach. Later on, I made my way to a plush beachside deck chair, where a nice man brought me a bento box filled with tartsweet fresh grilled corn and jicama salad.

Stiffly, I tried to relax and lasted 15 minutes.

“Now what?” I thought. I ripped through The

New York Times. I checked my work emails.

I flipped around a few podcasts on my iPhone. I even willed myself to nap on command. On day one of enforced relaxation, things weren’t going the way I had expected.

I worried that I’d forgotten how.

Unwinding is anathema for some, I know.

Worse, according to a study by Dutch physicians, roughly three per cent of the population suffers from “leisure sickness,” which means that on weekends and on holidays they experience headaches, nausea, anxiety and depression. I’m not one of those people (in fact, I think the concept is bonkers, as do some clinicians and researchers who doubt that “leisure sickness” actually exists). I do find it hard, however, to watch TV without reading long-form journalism from a laptop perched on my knees.

By the second day of the trip, however, my laptop was in the hotel-room safe. Instead, I had the glorious realization that I could order anything I wanted off the menu and not have to cut a little person’s steak for them.

The Gansevoort’s chefs mix French training with international recipes and cooking styles. I had everything from tender bavette and crispy frites to fresh sashimi. (Not at the same time, but close.) And the s’mores on the beach by a fire pit were next-level gratifying.

On day three, the realization that all good things can be brought to you (as opposed to you going to them) set firmly in when a charter boat picked a few of us up right on our own beach. The highlight of the subsequent tour was ogling the designer hammocks on the shoreline of Parrot Cay, the exclusive billionaire and celebrity enclave for Donna Karan, Bruce Willis, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner (who got married there— happier times), the Jenner sisters and Cara Delevingne. I took the laptop out of the safe that night to Google “Donna Karan” and “Parrot Cay” and discovered that a seven-acre parcel of her island retreat, The Sanctuary, is for sale. “Price upon request,” said the listing.

Two four-bedroom villas with cedar and coral walls, designed by Singaporean architect Cheong Yew Kuan, anchor the compound.

It was almost too much for me to gaze upon their magnificence. So I packed it in, reached for a glass of rosé and stepped out to the balcony. For a moment, I thought of the lonely bikes at the front door. Maybe later.

Tomorrow seemed so far away and for the first time, I didn’t mind so much. fall 2016 away 25

explorer

OneLife RetReat, BaLi This six-day trip is hosted every year by the Stillness Project, an Australian wellness company that brings meditation to the masses. The retreat takes place at the luxury spa/hotel Bagus Jati, set in the tropical gardens of ubud in central Bali. Guests stay in private hillside villas, eat macrobiotic meals and partake in yoga, meditation workshops and unscheduled downtime. stillnessproject.com

20 hours from Toronto Pearson to Bali

SOneva KiRi ReSORt, SOutheRn thaiLand it’s an epic journey to get to Koh Kood, Thailand’s best-kept secret. But it’s worth it. The island is home to the breathtakingly chic Soneva Kiri, a series of ecodesigned villas surrounded by mangrove trees and unspoiled beaches. We love the onsite open-air movie theatre, dubbed cinema Paradiso, as well as the treetop dining pod and onsite observatory made for stargazing. soneva.com

22 hours from Toronto Pearson to Koh Kood island

Jade MOuntain, St. Lucia This luxe resort consists of showstopping architecture that cascades off a mountainside. you can stroll through groves of cinnamon trees, gorge on James Beard Award-winning chef Allen Susser’s sultry dishes or dip into a mosaic-tiled infinity pool, all while taking in the view of St. Lucia’s twin peaks, the Gros and Petit Pitons. jademountain.com

five hours from Toronto Pearson to St. Lucia

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PHOTOGRAPHS: OneLife ReTReAT, BAGuS JATi ReSORT; SOnevA KiRi ReSORT, SOnevA KiRi; JAde MOunTAin, By JOe McnALLy

So Relaxed

Three OTher desTinaTiOns where decOmpressing is The main acTiviTy

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A GlobAl Guide to trAvel, ShoppinG And Fun ii SprinG 2015

A GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRAVEL, SHOPPING AND FUN II WINTER 2016

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For more information on how to reach this unique demographic through advertising, contact: Deborah Trepanier • 416.955.4993 • deborah.trepanier@stjoseph.com

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They

reign in Spain Horses, sherry and flamenco: In Jerez de la frontera, the trifecta define Spanish culture PhotograPhs and story by Clint Mclean

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

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ast year, when my wife and i decided to leave our home in Dubai, we found ourselves in the enviable position of deciding where in the world to move next.

Our jobs—I’m a freelance photographer and writer; she’s a neonatal nurse turned freelance translator—gave us the flexibility to consider such disparate places as Rwanda, Denmark and Sri Lanka. Then, during a road trip through Spain, our search abruptly ended when we reached the southern city of Jerez de la Frontera.

Jerez is 15 minutes from the Atlantic, an hour from Seville and has a small international airport to service its population of 200,000. The city’s name reflects its storied history. During Moorish rule, Jerez was the frontier of their territory, and it is etched with Moorish influences. We were instantly charmed by its narrow stone streets, striking architecture and the dapper glamour of its damas and caballeros.

Uniquely, the city’s relationship to flamenco, horses and sherry places Jerez at the heart of Andalusian culture. We’ve been immersing ourselves in this cultural trifecta since settling into a country house just outside Jerez—complete with a feisty pair of Ratonero Bodeguero Andaluz dogs (translated: “Andalusian wine-cellar rat hunters”). We’ve taken in electrifying flamenco performances and jaw-dropping equestrian shows and have emptied many bottles of extraordinary sherry at home and cheaper ones at our favourite neighbourhood tabanco (sherry bar). These icons of Spanish heritage permeate Jerez.

Flamenco, horses and sherry are the air Jerezanos breathe, and by simply being here, you can’t help but breathe them in too.

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Women dress up in their finest gowns at the FÊria de Caballo de Jerez, a week-long festival celebrating horses in the city’s 52,000-square-metre Gonzalo Horotoria Fairgounds fall 2016 away 29

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flamenco

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Nothing is more quintessentially Spanish than flamenco. The dramatic artform rose up from poor Jerez neighbourhoods like Santiago and San Miguel where you can still hear the stomp of the dance and the distinctive rhythm of its music. The city’s flamenco festival is considered among the world’s best, and in July and August top stars perform during Flamenco Fridays at the Alcazar, an 11th-century Islamic fortress in the town centre. However, with so many of the world’s top flamenco performers hailing from Jerez, you don’t have to wait for these annual events. Powerful performances happen every weekend at small venues like the legendary Tabanco El Pasaje across from the Villamarta theatre. This is the oldest tabanco in Jerez and a lively place to catch free flamenco with a crowd of local connoisseurs and curious travellers. Alternatively, La Taberna Flamenca offers flamenco dinner shows by emerging masters in the shadow of the Santiago cathedral. Wherever you go to watch it, be sure to show your appreciation with welltimed shouts of “olé.”

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You can still hear the stomp of the dance and the distinctive rhYthm of its music

clockwise from top: Flamenco Fridays at the Alcazar, backdropped by the Jerez cathedral; flamenco dancer Maria JosĂŠ Franco performs at the Alcazar; passionate stomping is part and parcel of the flamenco dancing tradition; a smaller flamenco performance at La Taberna Flamenca, a venue at the end of Calle Neuva in the Santiago neighbourhood. fall 2016 away 31

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the trend in newer bodegas is towards smaller, boutique labels

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sherry

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The word sherry is an anglicization of ‘Jerez,’ and true sherry can only come from the triangular area between Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlucar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria. The fortified wine comes in six styles, from very dry, fresh-tasting fino to rich, sweet Pedro Ximénez. Iconic brands like González Byass rule the supermarkets and tabancos. But the trend in newer bodegas is towards smaller, high-quality boutique labels. In the historic old district of Jerez, Bodegas Tradición specializes in Very Old and Very Old Rare sherry. A more recent addition to the sherry world is Equipo Navazos. This is not a bodega but a brand that buys small quantities of exceptional casks from famed bodegas such as Valdespino and sells them under its own critically praised label. With distributors around the world, brands like these are gradually changing the reputation of the underappreciated drink. This is not your grandma’s sherry.

clockwise from top left: Tabanco San Pablo, located near Plaza del Arenal, is one of the most famous tabancos in Jerez; fino sherries, like this one from Equipo Navazos, pair well with almonds, olives, quality ham and seafood such as tuna or sardines; aging sherry at the famed Valdespino bodega; vineyards cover the hillsides surrounding Jerez. fall 2016 away 33

Spain’s horse culture runs deep, and the elegant Andalusian breed holds a place in it like no other. Famed for their power, beauty and agility, Andalusians have been as prized for riding into battle as they are for their skills in the delicate dance of dressage. Monks at the cartuja, a monastery on the outskirts of Jerez, bred and protected the Carthusian strain of this breed—today it is considered the most pure and prized lineage of Andalusians. You can visit Yeguada de la Cartuja, a seven-minute drive through the countryside from its namesake monastery. They are an important caretaker of the Andalusian breed and put on dazzling demonstrations of dressage and carriage skills. To get even closer to the athletic animals, make the 30-minute drive from the town centre to Alcantara Ecuestre and join a riding tour through sunflower and cotton fields. You could also learn to make an Andalusian dance by signing up for lessons at Centro Ecuestre 2002. This farm near the airport even has a Pony Club for kids.

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horses

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andalusians are famed for their beauty and agility

16 hours from Toronto on British Airways via London and Madrid

madrid

jerez de la frontera

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clockwise from top left: Horses take centre stage at the annual FĂŠria de Caballo de Jerez; travellers can take horses out for a ride at Alcantara Ecuestra; a trainer puts on a demonstration at Yeguada de la Cartuja; Victor Ramos-Catalina de la Calle, director of equestrian facility Centro Ecuestra 2002.

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TempTaTion island On a quest for Singapore’s tastiest foods, Dakshana Bascaramurty discovers how hard it is to stop snacking in a city full of flavours

Violet oon

illustrations by studio tipi photographs by maureen ow

Killiney Kopitiam

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Hill sTreeT Tai Hwa

HeaP seng leong

Pork noodle

roland resTauranT Tom’s PaleTTe

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B

efore consuming a single bite, I was already cursing Christopher Tan, the Singapore food writer who had agreed to take me on a culinary walking tour of the southern part of his country. It was early May, 36 degrees Celsius and the muggiest time of year on the island.

My T-shirt was clinging to me and sweat was beading on my upper lip when Tan announced our first stop would be for a bowl of noodles at Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, an open-air spot known for 60- to 90-minute-long lines. I gave him a pinched smile but was soon relieved to learn we’d missed the lunch rush and only had to queue for 30 minutes.

After just one mouthful, I was ready to research the steps necessary to gain Singaporean citizenship.

The unassumingly named bowl of mince meat noodles (bak chor mee) was so memorable for its vinegary sauce, chewy noodles and tender strips of pork liver that I’ve looked back at the picture I snapped of it at least a dozen times since, willing the flavours to return to my mouth.

Food was the sole inspiration behind this three-day trip to Singapore. On the fine dining scale, the young island nation (it only gained independence in 1965) punches above its weight: in 2016, 10 of the establishments on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List were in Singapore. But my husband and I had come here to experience food on a more accessible scale—we wanted to find out which eateries this nation of workaholics ducked out to on their lunch breaks, what local fare families went out to eat on weekends, which hole-in-the-wall spots had survived decades on the strength of a single dish.

Singapore has been deemed by some as the street food capital of the world, though technically, none of the food is actually sold on the street. In the 1970s, debates raged over the unsanitary nature of the country’s hawker stalls and a movement began to preserve the same type of cuisine, but move it into cleaner and more orderly spaces which are known as hawker centres: essentially outdoor food courts. I’m a gutsy

food was our sole inspiration on this trip

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eater (and it’s landed me in the emergency room more than once), but it was a refreshing change to have my soup sitting at a clean table instead of perched on a child-sized plastic chair in a dirty alleyway.

At the Crawford Lane hawker centre Tan had brought us to, just north of the downtown core, the man behind the stall methodically assembled each order, first spooning lard, chili sauce, Chinese black vinegar and soy sauce into a bowl, then ladling scalding water onto the thin noodles to quick-cook them, adding them to the bowl and topping them with pork balls, pork liver, sliced pork, pork dumplings and scallions. He crowned the dish with a single piece of crispy fried dried sole.

“Don’t feel you have to finish it,” Tan gently advised, reminding us we had a long afternoon of eating ahead. We ignored him, tossing and re-tossing the noodles in the perfect dressing as it sunk to the bottom of the bowl, not wanting to waste a drop. We fought over the last piece of liver—usually my least favourite organ meat—as though it was a piece of crispy pork belly. At $6, I learned this was one of the more expensive bowls of bak chor mee in Singapore, but it was more sublime than

above: Chilli crab, Singapore’s national dish, typically consists of sweet mud crabs served in a savoury, slightly spicy chili and tomato sauce. below, left to right: Violet Oon, a swish restaurant serving Peranakan (Straits Chinese) food; a fish head curry at Violet Oon blends Chinese flavours with typical South Indian curry spice.

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explorer the best $10 bowls of Japanese ramen, Korean gamjatang or Malaysian laksa I’d had back home in Toronto. Two months later, Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle was awarded a one-star rating by Michelin, in the inaugural Singapore Michelin Guide—one of the first street food stalls ever to receive the distinction.

Singapore’s demographics—a mix of immigrants from all over Asia, but particularly Malaysia, India and China—and the fact that it’s a major regional shipping port have inspired a cuisine unlike anything else in the world. You can see the cultures in isolation— Little India’s streets are perfumed with jasmine from the garlands sold to Hindu temple-goers; in the Arab quarter, the call to prayer blares from speakers mounted on golden-domed mosques—but they all merge when it comes to dining. Singaporean food is just highly evolved fusion food. This has given birth to a legion of very sophisticated eaters and made the standard for even the cheapest fare—like a $2 plate of nasi lemak, a popular breakfast dish that can include steamed rice, a fried egg, a chicken wing— unusually high, Tan said. “Our palates are more sensitive to flavour imbalances.”

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above: Kaya, a jam made from coconut and palm sugar, is an extremely popular part of breakfast, served on toast and covered in thick pats of butter. below, left to right: Kaya toast; Heap Seng Leong is one of many Singaporean kopitiams where locals gather to socialize over strong coffee and humble breakfast dishes.

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ne morning, when searching for a breakfast spot in a crowded outdoor plaza where half the shops hadn’t yet opened for the day, we wandered into Heap Seng Leong, a kopitiam (coffee shop) just a short walk from the Crawford Street Bridge, which crosses the Rochor River. One might have mistaken it for a private home: An old man in cheap flip flops, too-short blue pajama pants and an undershirt stood at a cluttered stainless steel workstation preparing coffee, as though he was in his own kitchen. Another old man with white cotton balls in his ears sat under a no smoking sign, brazenly sucking on a cigarette and nursing a cup of hot kopi, Singapore’s signature strong black coffee, usually served with condensed milk. A few minutes after placing our order, I looked up to hear the sound of sanding: the pajamaed gentleman was using a jury-rigged toast scraper (made from the top of a tin of condensed milk) to scratch the black bits off the charcoal-grilled toast we’d ordered before slathering it with kaya, a jam made from coconut and palm sugar, and covering it with thick pats of butter.

Though a humble dish, this extremely popular breakfast—like almost all of Singapore’s

simplest foods—was greater than the sum of its parts. The previous day, Daniel Ang, a food blogger, had taken us to his own favourite kopitiam on Killiney Road. When the soft-boiled eggs, another essential element of the meal, arrived, he cracked them into a small porcelain bowl and instructed my husband to splash in dark and light soy sauce from the sticky bottles on our table and then dip our thick slices of kaya toast into them. The velvety, salty, caramel-coloured dip balanced the kaya’s coconutty sweetness and the creamy decadence of those fat pats of butter. We ordered it with a side of mild Indian chicken curry filled with big chunks of tender potato and mee siam, thin Malaysian curry noodles. Across the country, Ang said, it’s a Sunday morning tradition for families to take the elevator down to the lobby of their apartment buildings and have a mix of these dishes—or sometimes just kaya toast— at the kopitiam on the ground floor.

I visited another Singaporean institution in the Marine Parade Central district with Maureen Ow, a bubbly, lavender-haired food writer. After learning I’d not yet tried chilli crab, Singapore’s national dish, she booked us a table at Roland Restaurant, which is

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above: The fermented seeds of the buah keluak tree, native to the mangroves of Southeast Asia, are an essential ingredient in some Singaporean chicken and pork dishes. below, left to right: Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle is one of the first two food stalls to ever receive a Michelin star; Tai Hwa’s bak chor mee (minced meat noodles).

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now run by the son of the dish’s inventor. The massive dining room sits on top of a parking garage just north of the East Coast Parkway and has enough polyester-draped tables to host Chinese wedding receptions on the regular.

While chilli crab is on every tourist guide for Singapore, Ow explained that due to the high price of seafood—one chilli crab that day set us back $54.40 before tax—it’s a special-occasion-only treat for most locals. The crab was brought out in a large, shallow pot, garnished with a few sprigs of cilantro, and soaking in a bath of sweet, vinegary and mildly spicy tomato sauce. I went in toddler style in my mission to extract as much of the sweet, briny flesh from the shell as possible, eventually coating my chin, fingers, palms and even parts of my forearms with the thick gravy.

While old institutions like Roland and Heap Seng Leong still thrive, Singapore’s food scene is also defined by a constant push for innovation and search for new flavours. At Violet Oon, a swish new Peranakan (Straits Chinese) restaurant in the upscale Bukit Timah neighbourhood, my favourite dish was the buah keluak noodle. Made from the fermented seeds of the buah keluak tree, which is traditionally used in

pork or chicken dishes, here it was tossed with spaghetti and packed the same umami punch as a plate of linguine topped with black truffles.

At Tom’s Palette, an ice cream shop just a short walk from the 16-storey National Library, owner Chronos Chan foisted many of his creations on us, including a memorable scoop of white chocolate nori ice cream. In a sprawling mall food court, we bought miniature versions of the very au courant salted egg yolk-filled croissants, divinely flaky pastries filled with a cream reminiscent of Portuguese custard tarts.

After pounding the pavement for three days and consuming a month’s worth of calories, my husband and I arrived at Changi International Airport with $7 in change left between us. We felt no pressure to spend those last few coins until we noticed dozens of passengers walking around the Singapore Food Street food court in Terminal 3, carrying trays loaded with shockingly tasty-looking dishes: crispy South Indian dosas, hokkien prawn mee, roasted duck. We used almost all we had left to buy a bowl of vermicelli beef brisket soup. After the first slurp of the perfectly balanced, chili-oil-dotted broth, I knew I’d made the right decision to leave Singapore with empty pockets: I had a full belly.

21.5 hours from Toronto Pearson with one stop

PHOTOGRAPHS: (FAR LeFT), HILL STReeT TAI HwA By ROSLAn RAHmA/GeTTy ImAGeS

FLy Air Canada and Cathay Pacific offer indirect flights to Singapore, connecting via Hong Kong.

STay The impossibly chic 41-room art-themed Hotel Vagabond features small but luxuriously designed rooms in a restored shophouse in Singapore’s Little India neighbourhood. If you’re staying here, ditch the contemporary gallery visits you planned and just grab high tea in the Vagabond Salon, where you’ll be in the company of a solid brass rhino, life-sized elephant sculptures and golden-brass banyan trees. Rooms from $189 a night. hotelvagabondsingapore.com DO Looking for some nightlife? Hit one of Singapore’s food-filled hawker markets where locals from college kids to retirees gather in the evenings to socialize and sample the wide variety of foods on offer, from fatty roast duck and sio bak (roast pork) from a Hong Kong BBQ stall to crispy roti prata (a flaky Indian flatbread) dunked in a thick coconut-milk broth of chicken curry. Find something you like at hungrygowhere.com

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Somewhere Somewhere in in TexaS TexaS by jason Mcbride

photographs by liz sullivan

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The storied small town of Marfa is one of Hollywood’s favourite sets.

It’s also the location of some of America’s best contemporary art

Far leFt exploring donald judd’s 15 untitled works in concrete leFt chinati foundation guide ralph mckay below buns n’ roses, a florist, gift shop and bakery in marfa

EvEryonE in Marfa is talking about Kevin Bacon. From the lobby in the Hotel Paisano to the lineup outside the Food Shark, the conversation revolves, in tones both reverential and exuberant, around the ubiquitous actor. Is there a Footloose convention in town?

Or are Marfans big fans of The Following?

Neither, actually. This week in early June, Bacon is in this tiny West Texas desert town shooting a new television pilot for Amazon Studios called I Love Dick. (Or what locals, possibly to avoid saying the suggestive title out loud, have taken to calling The Kevin Bacon Show.) Bacon plays the eponymous Dick, an enigmatic cultural critic—part cowboy, part intellectual—who becomes entwined with a married couple visiting Marfa from New York.

Many films have been shot on the lonely, hardscrabble ranchland surrounding Marfa—most famously Giant, No Country for Old Men and

There Will Be Blood—but I Love Dick is the first TV show or movie to explicitly reference the town’s actual locations (like the aforementioned Food Shark food truck) and eccentric artistic heritage.

That heritage confronts you before you even get to town. Driving in from El Paso, I almost hit a knot of selfie-snapping tourists gathered outside of Marfa’s second most famous artwork, Prada Marfa. An adobe-style replica of a Prada store built by the Scandinavian artists Elmgreen and Dragset, the installation is perched on the edge of Route 90 about 65 kilometres from Marfa itself. While it’s become little more than an Instagram-friendly backdrop—it is beautiful at sunset—when it first opened in 2005, Prada Marfa was considered a winking critique of consumerism, as well as a nod to the region’s vernacular architecture and minimalist mythos. fall 2016 away 45

100 untitled works in mill aluminum, courtesy the chinati foundation

clockwise from right prada marfa, a permanent installation by elmgreen and dragset; donald judd’s 100 untitled works in mill aluminum; inside the marfa contemporary during a jose dÀvila show; at the ballroom marfa during the dengue fever opening reception

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marfa has become an art-world mecca Donald Judd imported the latter to Marfa in the early 1970s. Having outgrown his Soho loft and lured by the region’s enchanting light and vast, isolated spaces, the renowned conceptual artist famously bought up several buildings around the town and transformed Marfa into his own artistic utopia-cum-laboratory. (I Love Dick’s Dick isn’t based on Judd at all, though his spirit certainly hovers over the character.)

Judd’s goal was to somehow unite art, architecture and nature. He turned an abandoned military base into an immense minimalist sculpture park and dubbed it the Chinati Foundation after the nearby mountain peak of the same name; it opened to the public in 1986.

Chinati hangs off the southern edge of Marfa like an enormous concrete-and-glass earring.

I opted for the shorter “selections” tour—two hours long, it’s less than half the length of the full collection tour and still provides a

satisfying taste of the works first installed at the museum by Judd and compatriots Dan Flavin and John Chamberlain. The centrepiece of Chinati, and the first stop on the tour, is Judd’s 100 Untitled Works in Mill Aluminum. As the title baldly proclaims, the installation consists of a hundred aluminum boxes, all of identical dimensions but with differently configured, angled interiors, precisely placed in two former artillery sheds. (POWs were housed here during World War II, and German graffiti still covers one wall.) Judd installed customized windows and, in the day, light constantly floods the colossal, sanctuary-silent buildings. As I slowly moved through the space, the boxes glittered and gleamed and glowed, but also seemed to change shape and texture—at times, they were prisms or uniquely uncomfortable furniture, at others astonishing cubes of silver light. In its curious and deliberate way, this manmade

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space mirrored the play of sun and shadow that existed just outside its walls. When I looked out a window, I watched a roadrunner dart between a rock and an agave plant and then miraculously vanish in the luminosity.

Judd’s transformation of Marfa into his own creative fiefdom led to the town’s transformation into an art-world Mecca. And then, over the ensuing decades, as the town’s glacial gentrification spawned high-end restaurants and artisanal craft shops, into a bohemian boutique town. The Marfa Book Company, an indie bookstore with an unsurprisingly deep selection of art books, anchors the newish Hotel St. George. There are now not one but two places to get a decent cortado. An annual film festival draws thousands, the Chinati and Lannan foundations offer residencies that bring in artists and writers from around the world, and the town’s main drag often teems with transplants from L.A., Brooklyn and Austin.

But they still come largely for the art, and galleries have sprouted up all over town. In a single afternoon, I dropped by Eugene Binder, a downtown exhibition space that specializes

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in contemporary American art (on this day, op-art paintings by Jordan Belson); the Ayn Foundation, with its twin rooms each devoted to a single, equally monumental work: Andy Warhol’s Last Supper and Maria Zerres’ September Eleven; the Wrong Store, a gift shop that sells whimsically risqué crafts and hosts solo shows by local artists; and Marfa Contemporary, a roomy extension of the Oklahoma Contemporary Arts Centre, housed in a former gas station.

By evening, things had come full circle.

Ballroom Marfa, the non-profit contemporary art space founded in 2003, commissioned Prada Marfa, and remains arguably the town’s most compelling place to see cutting-edge art.

In its courtyard, as bartenders poured a custom-made IPA, both tourists and Marfans (a patchwork of bohos and border cops, cowboys and cowpunks, drifters and hipsters) gathered for an exhibition of painting, sculpture and video art called Dengue Fever. After a while, after the hot sun began to set, various members of the I Love Dick cast, no longer in costume or make-up, trickled in too. They fit right in.

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clockwise from far left ThE wrong sTorE, a giFT shoP ThaT hosTs arT shows; Canadian-born KEndra JonEs, oPEraTions ManagEr aT ballrooM MarFa, wiTh a loCal, Jonny x; insidE ThE MarFa booK CoMPany; dinErs linE uP ouTsidE ThE Food sharK

galleries have sprouted up all over town

Five hours from Toronto to El Paso (indirect)

FLy air Canada and american airlines fly direct from Toronto Pearson to dallas-Fort worth. Connect there to El Paso, then drive three hours southeast to Marfa.

STay before its renovation more than a decade ago, the Thunderbird was a classic 1950s horseshoe-shaped motel. it’s now a stylishly austere boutique hotel whose lovely landscaping and courtyard pool conjure the most inviting oasis. rooms from $140. Thunderbirdmarfa.com eaT Marfa does both burritos and haute cuisine, but right in the culinary middle is one of the town’s most colourful eateries, the Food shark. a food truck parked just off of west san antonio street, it serves up Mediterranean food with a Tex-Mex twist.

Dallas El Paso marfa

Three hours by car from El Paso to Marfa

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FIT & FUN ZONE COMING SOON TO TERMINAL 3!

Visit us at our three other locations in Terminal 1 & 3

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City guides designed by experts

ValparaĂ­so, a seaside charmer just 90 minutes outside Santiago, Chile

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d e to u r s

santiago

The arty city is a visual feast—and its mountains aren’t hard on the eyes either

your guide Rodrigo Ardiles was raised in both canada and chile. His career as an image maker started in his adolescence, painting murals on the streets of Santiago, and he’s continued to contribute to culture via film and visual arts.

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HiSTory The modern Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos (Museum of Memory and Human Rights) gives visitors deep insight into recent chilean history and the psyche of the country’s people. museodelamemoria.cl LoCAL SeCreT The city has been been dramatically improving its cycling infrastructure.

On Sundays, bikes rule downtown, as several major corridors are pedal poweronly. ciclorecreovia.cl

HoTeL close to the business centre and the subway, Hotel Ismail is a convenient and cool boutique hotel, with art scattered throughout the rooms, restaurant and bar. Rooms from $245. hotelismael312.com

dAy TriP About 90 minutes away, Valparaíso is both a port town bursting with history and an enticing seaside escape with pleasant beaches and great food. The wine region is en route.

eAT WiTH THe LoCALS Bar Liguria’s three locations serve chilean classics in bustling dining rooms decorated with vintage photos and posters. excellent servers help navigate the seafood and meat dishes, as well as the extensive wine list. liguria.cl ATTrACTioN The vendors and eateries at the colourful Mercado Central sell some of the best seafood in the world— and some of the most exotic. Though it’s extremely busy, the market also showcases how friendly chileans can be. locals go as early as 5 a.m. to munch on something after a night on the town. Try the Paila Marina mixed fish stew.

CoCKTAiLS like something out of the 1950s, Don Rodrigo has a piano ready for playing and a friendly crowd in perennially good cheer.

The bartenders have been there forever and serve a sharp pisco sour, plus beer and wines.

11 hours direct from Toronto on Air canada

santiago

PHOTOGRAPHS: (PReviOuS PAGe) MiRAlex/iSTOckPHOTO; HiSTORy, cOuRTeSy MuSeO de lA MeMORiA y lOS deRecHOS HuMAnOS; lOcAl SecReT, denni vAn HuiS/STOckSy; ATTRAcTiOn, eye ubiquiTOuS/GeTTy iMAGeS; cOckTAilS, iSTOckPHOTO

Santiago is wildly different from the rest of Chile, but it is also the place where everything happens. The neighbourhoods, or barrios, run from elite enclaves to shantytowns. The core artistic and tourist-friendly areas are downtown and very well defined—rock ‘n’ roll in one area, folklore in another, theatre somewhere else—so you can plan your night out by theme. Yungay, the colonial area where I live, has gradually been taken over by artists. To get around, take advantage of the clean, inexpensive subway system—it’s very safe and dependable. If you’re driving and get lost, the Andes Mountains are your reference point, visible from practically anywhere in the city. In the winter the views of San Cristóbal Hill in northern Santiago are gorgeously snowcapped.

brisbane

PHOTOGRAPHS: ATTRAcTiOn, iSTOckPHOTO; HOTel, cOuRTeSy incHcOlm inn And SuiTeS; nATuRe bReAk, iSTOckPHOTO; muSic venue, cOuRTeSy THe TRiffid

On Australia’s east coast, great weather and a fun waterfront draw crowds In less than 20 years, Brisbane’s rapid growth has transformed it into a very young, surprisingly diverse cosmopolis on Australia’s eastern coast. An inherent optimism defines the city.

The climate is a major draw: it’s warm but not super tropical. One hour south of the city, it’s like Florida; one hour north, it’s like California. The Brisbane River divides the city into north and south.

Since Brisbane hosted the 1988 World Expo, the city has opened up, the riverfront has become a locus for leisure and dining on the water and the architecture has bloomed. High-speed ferries that run along the river are an excellent way to get around. You come out after a theatre show at night and ride home on the water, looking at all these fantastic city views.

your guide One of brisbane’s first “official greeters,” Blair Allsopp is a regular radio presenter who has appeared in travel documentaries and in 2014 hosted presidents and prime ministers during brisbane’s G20.

ATTrACTioN Rising 300 metres above the city, Mount Coot-tha is brisbane’s highest point. easily accessible, the peak provides breathtaking views of volcanic mountains, moreton bay and the Sunshine and Gold coasts.

HoTeL A 1920s art deco office building that’s been recently remodelled, the new Inchcolm has been voted Australia’s best boutique hotel. from $230. inchcolm.com.au

STuFF 1. cult Australian remedy Lucas’ Papaw Ointment was developed in brisbane back in 1906. lucaspapaw.com.au 2. The official balls for Aussie Rules football come in the colour of your favourite teams, like red for the brisbane lions. When deflated, they’re very easy to pack. sherrin.com.au/gameballs.html

NATure breAk check out koalas, kangaroos, wallabies and other Aussie wildlife at the world renowned Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. visitors can even hold a koala. koala.net MuSiC VeNue Housed in a Second World War hangar, The Triffid’s curved roof has remarkable acoustics. Owned by bassist John collins of the legendary band Powderfinger, the haunt attracts a wide range of musical acts. thetriffid.com.au dAy TriP Home to the cute seaside suburb of cleveland and 365 islands, Moreton Bay is just a short train ride away. use the ferries to spend a day hopping between islands.

CuLTurAL iNSTiTuTioN The Gallery of Modern Art, built just a decade ago, is a chic offshoot of the Queensland Art Gallery and is the largest modern and contemporary art institution in the country. qagoma.qld.gov.au

21 hours from Toronto via vancouver on Air canada brisbane

fall 2016 away 53

d e to u r s

shanghai

Historic architecture provides balance in China’s skyscrapermad metropolis

Your guide Advertising executive Summer Kong works at Publicitas, an international media and marketing agency. in her downtime, she hunts for cool boutiques that can keep up with the city’s killer street style.

54 away fall 2016

Neighbourhood Wander the pedestrian-only, cobblestoned Nanjing Road, one of the busiest shopping streets in the world, extending from the bund to the People’s Square, where you can find souvenirs and just about anything you forgot to pack. cocktaiLS Restaurant and cocktail bar Starling is set within a restored 1920s complex in the city’s centre, and blends a medley of Southeast Asian ingredients, including tropical fruits and spices to conjure magic in every glass. 99 Taixing Lu

LocaL Secret Visit former Chinese table tennis champ Tang Weiyi’s ping pong hall in the Jing’an district to improve your game and rub shoulders with the sport’s all-stars.

hoteL built in 1929, the Fairmont Peace Hotel is a luxurious art deco landmark minutes away from the bund waterside promenade. From $300 a night. fairmont.com

ShoppiNg Hong Kong’s lovely K11 Art Mall offers customers a museum-like experience with local artwork and stunning architecture at every turn.

LuNch A huge menu of classic Cantonese dishes delight diners at Charme Restaurant, a family chain that’s popular with locals. charmecochinchine.com

FiNe diNiNg Mr & Mrs Bund, Paul Pairet’s modern French eatery, is a favourite with celebrities including Quentin Tarantino and bill Clinton. enjoy heaps of comfort food with an incredible view of the city’s skyline. mmbund.com

14 hours direct from Toronto via Air Canada and China eastern

shanghai

PHOTOGRAPHS: NeiGHbOuRHOOd ANd HOTel, COuRTeSy FAiRmONT PeACe HOTel; FiNe diNiNG, COuRTeSy mR & mRS buNd; SHOPPiNG, blOOmbeRG/GeTTy imAGeS

In this city of 24 million people, shopping malls, mega museums and luxury hotels are constantly springing up—way, way up. It can all be somewhat overwhelming, even if you’ve lived in Shanghai for years and adjusted to its outlandish size and frenetic rhythms. Luckily, the city has balance—for every space-age skyscraper, there’s a quiet alleyway or ancient Buddhist temple.

You can stroll through the mid-19th-century European-style side streetscape in the French Concession, or spend an afternoon admiring the futuristic architecture of Pudong. Whatever you do, don’t leave without getting your fill of the amazing dumplings.

nashville

PHOTOGRAPHS: culTuRAl venue, by JOHn RuSSell; ATTRAcTiOn, by STeve lOwy; STuff, iSTOckPHOTO And HATcH SHOw PRinT, cOuRTeSy cOunTRy MuSic HAll Of fAMe; SHOP, cOuRTeSy dRAPeR JAMeS; dininG, by AndReA beHRendS

There’s a lot more to Music City than 10-gallon hats and hazy honky tonks On my first trip to Nashville, I climbed onstage at a honky tonk, quite certain I knew the words to “Jolene.” Of course, I bombed the Dolly Parton classic (turns out performing live is not karaoke). Luckily for me, Music City appreciates a little brassiness in the name of a good time. But Nashville is much more than the honky tonks of the Broadway strip—cross the Cumberland River to East Nashville and discover an artisanal, laidback vibe.

I love Nashville most for its history—who doesn’t want to drink in the same bar Patsy Cline slipped into between encores at the Ryman Auditorium?—and the city has a special place in my heart. My husband and I got engaged on the steps of that iconic music hall—and the honky tonks were a perfect place to celebrate.

YOUR GUIDE nashville is pretty much heaven for Sarah Boesveld, a huge country music fan. She gave up her dream of becoming the next dolly Parton years ago, so instead fronts the National Post’s country/metal band conrad black Sabbath.

CULTURAL VENUE The Country Music Hall of Fame tells the story of American music—from its gospel roots to its elvis heyday to its more modern, Swiftian moments. A must, even for country music-phobes. countrymusichalloffame.org STUFF 1. Snag a vintage Grand Ole Opry Show poster from Hatch Show Print Shop, an iconic 137-yearold letterpress.

2. Skip the ‘buy 5 pairs get one free’ deals downtown—head to Goodbuy Girls in east nashville for the perfect vintage cowboy boots.

ATTRACTION The Ryman Auditorium was originally a place of worship. now, it’s the best music venue in the South. Take a backstage tour to see where Hank williams prepped for the Grand Ole Opry Show or cut your own record in the auditorium’s former ticket booth.

NEIGHBOURHOOD if you’re looking for the cool kids, head to East Nashville, where big porches and dive bars (try 3 crow bar at the corner of woodland and 11th) live in perfect harmony.

SHOP Sip sweet tea as you browse Reese witherspoon’s 12 South dress shop Draper James— where all the frocks have pockets. yes. Pockets. draperjames.com HONKY TONK The “undisputed home of traditional country music in nashville,” Robert’s Western World is by far the best honky tonk on broadway. robertswesternworld.com

DINING Husk is located in a heritage home that once belonged to a nashville mayor. Here, James beard Awardwinning chef Sean brock brings Southern ingredients to life in impressive, approachable and delicious ways. husknashville.com

Two hours direct from Toronto on Air canada and westjet nashville

fall 2016 away 55

Oct 2016

Kate

BOSWORTH

Style

STAR

Fall LOOKS

South Korean BEAUTY why we’re obsessed

Life With

Hottest

TWO LOVERS

HIGH-TECH FACIALS

The

Accessories

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What You Love, WHEREVER You Go Your all access pass to FASHION videos, photo galleries, live links and more.

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FAS H I O N M AG A Z I N E .C O M /4 I PA D ®Apple, the Apple and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.

WAY F I N D e r How to nAvigAte toronto peArson

409

aIRpoRT Road

427

TERMINaL 3

INFO

MAPS BY ALICE CHO

For online guides to Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, go to torontopearson.com

TERMINaL 1

Terminal Link Train UP Express

FALL 2016 away 57

wa y f i n d e r

D28 To gaTes D1–D12

D11 D12

D9 D7

D10

D5

D8 D6

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

40 41 42 43 44 45 46

A&W Booster Juice Caffè di Calabria Camden Food Co. Cibo Express Gourmet Markets Extreme Pita Farmers Market The Great Canadian Bagel The Marketplace Purblendz Starbucks Starbucks Starbucks Thai Express Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Upper Crust

fasHIOn & aCCEssORIEs

Burberry Bvlgari Coach Gucci Longchamp Longines Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling Michael Kors Montblanc Omega Rado Salvatore Ferragamo Swarovski Tissot Tumi Victoria’s Secret Victoria’s Secret

HEaLTH & BEaUTY

:10 Minute Manicure :10 Minute Manicure Aveda The Body Shop Jo Malone MAC Cosmetics MAC Cosmetics by Nuance

58 away FALL 2016

61

D20

104

7

57

T1 reTail index

48

D22

D1 D4

Canada, USA and International arrivals and departures

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

D24 D3

TerMinal 1

Cafés & snaCks

18

D26

77 Nearest Gate

D37 F57 E/F70 D33 F61 D45 D4 F89 D45 D45 D45 F60 E75 D45 D51 F66 E74 D26 E/F81 F57 E75 E76 E75 E76 E75 E76 D40 D20 F62 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E77 E75 D20 F57 D37 D20 D37 D20 D20 F64

47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58

59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75

76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91

nEWs & BOOks

Ink Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Streetcar Newstand Watermark

REsTaURanTs & BaRs

Apropos Asobu Bar 120: Cuisine Transformed Bento Sushi Boccone Pronto Boccone Trattoria Fetta The Hearth Heirloom Bakery Café Lee Kitchen Marathi Mill St. Brewery Red Rocket True Burger Co. Twist by Roger Mooking Vinifera Wahlburgers

RETaIL sERVICEs

CIBC Banking Centre CIBC Banking Centre CIBC Banking Centre CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM Plaza Premium Lounge Plaza Premium Lounge Plaza Premium Lounge Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine

Nearest Gate

D/F51 D22 D42 F83 D/F57 E77 F61 F66 E75 D35 D4 D20

F62,63 E74 D20 D22 F57 D39 E73 F60 E75 E73 E78 D20 D/F51 E74 D36 E76 F67

D31 D31 F61 D33 F66 E79 E72 E77 D20 F82 E76 F60 D33 F65 D20 F57

L1 Level 1

D31

105

D33

4

D35

D39

43

92 41

1

64

98-99 97

98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112

D38

49

6, 9-11, 14

D44

96 97

73

107

27

D40 D41 D42 D43

92 93 94 95

79

56

D37

88

sPECIaLTY sTOREs

Davids Tea The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Liquor Store

by Nuance Duty Free Wine by Nuance Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post iStore Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory The Scoreboard The Source The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine Sunglass Hut TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox

D45

Nearest Gate

D35 E76 F57 F61

F62 D38 D36 D36 F63 D31 F62 E74 D20 D31 F64 D36 F67 F66 F69 F68 E77

D36

PaRKING

L2 Level 2 L1 Level 1 62 70 28, 39 42, 44-45

90

58

84

PUBLIC AREA 15

101 76

50

47

8

To gaTes F84–99

71

51

D51 F51

D53 F53

D32 F32

D55 F55

63

D57 F57

40

D34 F34 F36

85 20

94

12

F60 F62

96, 100 102 59

59

29 89

aTMs

D Canada E International F USA

87

5

F65

46

SERVICES

Bathroom Nursing Station Info Escalator Elevator Airline Service Lounge Payphone Bus Bay Government Services Connection Centre Play Area

F64a/b 106

80

Over 40 ATMs are available throughout the airport

75

16

54

F67

Types of ATMs available include: CIBC, Travelex, Plus, Cirrus

F66a/b 108

109

E69 F69

E 71 F 71

E 72 F 72

GaTES

66 95

78

F61

E70 F70

F82

91

53

F63

3 82

68

65

110 17

F84–99

F83

2

E 68 F68

13

111

86

60,72 21, 23, 22, 24, 26, 103 25, 38 30-37

E 73 F 73

E80 F80

19

55

67

93

E81 F81

81 83 69

52

E 78 F 78

112

74

E 79 F 79

E 77

E 74 E 75

E 76

FALL 2016 away 59

wa y f i n d e r 13

55

8

30

L2 Level 2

B5

15

63

L1 Level 1

73

1

B4 42

11

68

43

B3 B1a

B2c B2a

9

B1b B1c

16

B1d

L1 Level 1

A13 A14

TerMinal 3

5

A16

T3 reTail index

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

11 12

13 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Booster Juice Booster Juice Freshii Meteor Starbucks Starbucks Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons

Nearest Gate

B3 B41 A/B19 A10 A14 B39 B22 B3 B1 B26

fASHiON & AccESSORiES

Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling

HEAlTH & BEAUTY

Be Relax Be Relax

NEWS & BOOkS

Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Streetcar Skyhealth Pharmacy Vending Machine

60 away FALL 2016

B3 B27 B5 C36 B4 B1 A11 B22 B26 B26 B27 C33 A10 B37

72

A15

Canada, USA and International arrivals and departures

cAféS & SNAckS

34

A17

25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53

RESTAURANTS & BARS

Acer Beerhive Caplansky’s Deli The Cork & Well Corso The Distillery Fionn MacCool’s Heirloom Bakery Café Ice Bar Nobel Burger Bar Paramount Fine Foods Shanghai 360 Smashburger Smokes Burritorie Urban Crave Vinifera RETAil SERvicES

CIBC Banking Centre CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM Plaza Premium Lounge Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Travelex Currency Exchange Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine

A18 B18

Nearest Gate

C35 B27 B40 A19 B29 B3 B24 C31 C36 A13 C34 B27 B27 B26 A13 C32 B26 B3 B1 B24 A10 B28 B27 B24 A38 C33 A10 A13 A13

B17

54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73

SPEciAlTY STORES

Davids Tea Discover Canada Discover Canada The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance iStore Lolë The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox

Nearest Gate

B27 B4 B26 B41 B41 B41 C30 C30 A11 B4 B26 B26 B28 C30 B3 C30 B40 A11 A14 B4

28

3

A7

A6

A8

PARKING

A9 A10

45 51

A11

62

A12

4

23

PUBLIC AREA

52,53

71 17

48

18

44 31

7 39

B24 41

B 22

64

19

B25

56

10

65

20

A20 B20

57

B26

38

26

A19 B19

36

A USA B Canada/Int.

Bathroom Nursing Station Info Escalator Elevator Airline Service Lounge Payphone Bus Bay Government Services Connection Centre Play Area

B 41 70

B 28

46 66

B 40

27 6

B 29 B 39

29

49 24

C31

60 67

32

ATMs

61

Over 40 ATMs are available throughout the airport

35 22

C32

B 38 B37

C30

69

Types of ATMs available include: CIBC, Travelex, Plus, Cirrus

2

54 12

21

SERVICES

59

47

B 27

GATES

37

40

14

C36

33 50 25

C33

C34

58

C35

jet age

Canada’s first cattle shipment takes to the sky There are moments in air travel when you might seriously wonder if your fellow passengers were raised in a barnyard, but 70 years ago, on a plane to Cuba, there was no question that was the case. It was September 1946 when eight Holstein bull calves lumbered aboard an aircraft at the Malton Airport—the first shipment of cattle ever to leave Canada by air, the landmark flight kicked off a new era in the transport of Canadian livestock. That Havana-bound plane marked a necessary expansion of the relationship between this country’s cattle breeders and international partners (bovine-loaded flights to Colombia, Argentina, Chile and Mexico soon followed), but for the gobsmacked onlookers at the airport that day, it was simply a sight that defied logic, an event that could only be replicated when pigs—or cows—fly.

from the archives

1946

62 away fall 2016

PHOTOGRAPH BY cAnAdA PicTuRes/GeTTY imAGes

an udder triumph

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