AWAY SPRING 2017 ENGLISH

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A GlobAl Guide to trAvel, ShoppinG And Fun ii SprinG 2017

Berlin’s new Food scene

Plus great escapes to CANADA’s NATIONAL PARKs, ICeLAND, GeRmANy, QATAR and mORe

sPRING 2017

volume 3, issue 2

p53

morocco p38

Doha

Berlin

Birmingham p55

p22

p44

los angeles canaDa

p51

where we’re going in this issue...

DusselDorf

icelanD

stockholm

p34

p54 p26

explorer

22 26

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARk TennenHOuse

34 38 44

Berlin’s New Tastes

The German centre of all things cool has its culinary coming of age Green acres

I always wanted to visit Iceland with my boyfriend. I ended going with my brother Culture Club

There’s a great new reason to book a trip to Stockholm: The museums are free The Light in North africa

A photographic journal of Morocco— from the desert to the mountains The Great Outdoors

Canada’s national parks will be free to visit in 2017—here’s eight you don’t want to miss

p26 ON THE COVER II Berlin’s new Tastes Photo by Valerie Haase Courtesy Das Brunch Spring 2017 away 3

p12

p18

INSIDER

ii On the Ground Our new passenger information zones will keep you in the loop

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11 ii Pearson Person Airport duty manager Larry Shack can stop a crisis before it begins 12 ii Checking In We chat up travellers in the departure lounges

the list

p22

d e to u r s

17 ii air Fare Gastronomic advances come to Terminal 1’s Bar 120

51 ii Los angeles Neighbour-

18 ii Style and Beauty Fourteen great ideas that you just might keep for yourself

53 ii Birmingham The U.K.’s most exciting city. Your guide: Radio host Ed James

20 ii Et Cetera Seven totally

54 ii Düsseldorf Culture vs

entertaining ways to kill time

hood distinctions. Your guide: Instagram star Remi Ishizuka

business. Your guide: Opera singer James Martin 55 ii Doha Modern meets

ancient. Your guide: Photographer Shaima Al Tamimi

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wa y f i n d e r 57 ii Maps Navigating Toronto Pearson Terminal 1 and Terminal 3

jet age 62 ii Jet age From 1986, a short

history of airport weather forecasting

PHOTOGRAPHS (clOckwiSe) liAm mOGAn, AnnA liSA SAnG, wilkOSz And wAy

ii anatomy A day in the life of the lost and found centre

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Spring 2017 voLume 3, issue 2

A GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRAVEL, SHOPPING AND FUN II SPRING 2017

pUBLiSHEr Douglas kelly EditoriaL editorial director Maryam sanati Managing editor pat lynch

BERLIN’S NEW FOOD SCENE

art creative director (on leave) una Janicijevic Photo editor liz ikiriko art director adam Cholewa ContriBUtorS alice Cho, Mary Dickie, paul gallant, sarah liss, Jessica Wynne lockhart, Jason Mcbride, liam Mogan, ian patterson, anna lisa sang, Mary scherpe, Mark tennenhouse, rachel tennenhouse, May truong, Wilkosz and Way, simon Willms prodUCtion Production director Maria Mendes Production Manager alexandra irving grEatEr toronto airportS aUtHority for toronto pEarSon intErnationaL airport President and ceo Howard eng Vice-President, customer and terminal Services scott Collier director, Passenger Services Janine gervais associate director, Business development, Partnerships and advertising sergio pulla Manager, Passenger experience Heidi noyes Senior Representative, Passenger experience beverly MacDonald St. JoSEpH MEdia chairman tony gagliano President Douglas knight general Manager and Vice-President, Finance karl percy Vice-President and group Publisher, Women’s group Jacqueline loch Vice-President, Strategic development Duncan Clark Vice-President, Research Clarence poirier Vice-President, Marketing and Production Darlene storey controller Dora brenndorfer ContaCt US aWaY, St. Joseph Media

111 Queen street east, suite 320, toronto, ontario M5C 1s2 away@stjosephmedia.com (416) 364-3333 greater toronto airports authority p.o. box 6031, 3111 Convair Drive toronto aMf, ontario l5p 1b2 (416) 776-3000

Plus great escapes to CANADA’S NATIONAL PARKS, ICELAND, GERMANY, QATAR and MORE

also available in a Digital eDition for your Desktop, laptop anD tablet L'édition française du magazine AwAy est égaLement disponibLe sur votre ordinateur de bureau, ordinateur portabLe et tabLette

aWaY is published four times per year by st. Joseph media inc. on behalf of the greater toronto airports authority (gtaa). © 2017. all rights reserved. no part of this periodical may be reproduced in any form without the consent of the gtaa. the gtaa is not responsible for any errors or omissions contained in this publication. printed in Canada by st. Joseph printing.

go to / accÉdez au

ToronTopearson.com

“Passengers are our Passion”

At Toronto Pearson Airport, we live and breathe this motto In 2014, Toronto Pearson established a new corporate vision to become the best airport in the world. Aspirational to be sure, but to paraphrase Vince Lombardi, “If we chase perfection, we might just catch excellence.”

To realize this vision, all 49,000 staff representing more than 300 organizations across Toronto Pearson are committed to coming together with a singular focus on putting our passengers first. We recognize that we don’t always get it right, but we are committed to getting better each and every day.

Over the past few years, we have implemented a number of changes that will improve the passenger journey, and you can read about some of these enhancements in this issue.

From travel essentials to pick up before you leave (page 18) to Bar 120’s unique take on some iconic dishes (page 17) and our Lost and 6 away SPRING 2017

Safe travels, W. Scott Collier

PHOTOGRAPH BY simOn willms

vice-President’s Letter

Found team’s commitment to reuniting travellers with their lost items (page 14), Toronto Pearson’s goal is to have our commitment to our passengers shine in everything we do.

In addition to the above, we’re also making sure that our passengers have the information they need at every step of their journey to make their experience at Toronto Pearson as seamless as possible. We have created a network of information zones across Terminals 1 and 3, each equipped with interactive touchscreens and friendly passenger service representatives eager to help you find your gate, retrieve flight information or point you to the best cup of coffee in the terminal. You can read more about our Passenger Information Zone in Terminal 1 Domestic on page 9.

Of course, where helping our passengers is concerned, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention our Toronto Pearson Welcome Team, comprising 200 dedicated volunteers stationed throughout both terminals, in the parking garages and at the train platforms. They are there to answer any questions you may have about navigating our facilities, give directions or even escort you directly to where you need to be.

Many of these enhancements have been implemented because of the great suggestions and feedback we have received from our staff, our business partners and, of course, you—our passengers. Your opinions and suggestions are vital to making Toronto Pearson the best airport in the world, and we invite you to use the feedback kiosks in the washrooms to rate us on cleanliness; use the iPad kiosks at security checkpoints to tell us about your security experience; give us a shout-out on social media @TorontoPearson; or send an email to customer_service@GTAA.com. We want to know what you think.

We are anticipating that 2017 will be a record-setting year for growth at Toronto Pearson, but growth is about more than just the numbers; it’s about ensuring that each and every passenger has a quality experience at the airport. Whether we are your point of departure before an exciting new adventure or your welcome home after a long trip, rest assured that we are working hard to make your journey an enjoyable and memorable one.

Passport 2017

The Canada 150 events app Visit us at Passport2017.ca or download the free app.

Available now.

This project was made possible in part by the Government of Canada.

INSIDER The SecreT life of ToronTo pearSon

Our first passenger information zone inside Terminal 1

ON THE GROUND

HELP IS ON THE way

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAY TRuOnG

Here, we answer any questions you might have about your trip In Terminal 1’s Node E, a formidable flower stretches its four curving petals up toward a skylight. It’s not an art installation, though its elegant lines create a sense of sculpture. The nature-inspired structure is part of a network of passenger information zones being introduced in Terminals 1 and 3. Those petals, notes Simone Franke, Toronto Pearson’s manager of architectural services, provide flight informa-

tion on an illuminated digital display. Below them sit touchscreen kiosks and a passenger service rep to assist with “any predicament you happen to be in,” Franke says. With this zone, Toronto Pearson’s planning team brings more warmth into the environment. Franke adds that the unique design serves as a nifty landmark. “If you say, ‘Meet me at the flower,’ people will know exactly where to find you.”

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INSIDER in one of our hangars. This meant the hangar filled up with 20 feet of foam. A picture is worth a thousand words, so this got media attention immediately. Since the foam is environmentally concerning, we had to escalate different departments and contain the situation quickly.

That sounds stressful.

This is the perfect job if you’re an adrenaline junkie. If you come in expecting the unexpected, then you’ll be set up for success every single day.

pearson person

THE GO-TO GUy

Airport Duty Manager Larry Shack can stop a crisis before it even happens

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAY TRuOnG

by paUL GaLLanT

Larry Shack has made aviation his life, starting in 1979, when he worked at De Havilland assembling twin-engine planes. Now, as one of six airport duty managers at Toronto Pearson, Shack works across eight different departments to prevent “IRROPS.” That stands for “irregular operations”—any serious disruption to the flow of passengers, baggage and aircraft.

was Malton Airport, during World War II. It’s in my blood.

Where did your interest in airplanes come from?

My dad was a mechanic here at Toronto Pearson, when it

Describe a tricky situation you’ve dealt with.

Last summer, a fire-suppression system alarm went off

What is your job exactly?

I deal with the big picture on serious issues and get things back to normal as quickly as possible. As part of this, I look at what’s going wrong in other airports that may impact us here as a result, like winter weather conditions and possible cancellation of flights.

What’s been one of your most creative moments?

We have an inter-terminal train that connects passengers between Terminal 1, Terminal 3 and the parking garage.

We may have an irregular operation where we lose both trains that run and we have to mobilize our buses. But it takes a few minutes to get the buses going and we need to get passengers moving. So we offer the taxis and limousines that are at the airport to our passengers as a free service to take them from one building to another.

Do you have to go out to solve problems yourself?

Not usually. I collaborate with a team of managers across the airport who are subject matter experts in their respective areas. We all wear the restricted area clearance card, the purple badge that identifies us as airport employees, and it’s like a magnet for passengers who have questions.

How do you unwind?

My wife and I are St. John Ambulance therapy dog handlers. We have two Yorkshire terriers, Bella and Sofia, that we volunteer with by visiting a long-term care facility weekly.

We like to give back to society.

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INSIDER CheCking in

SO, WHERE ARE YOU GOING? Ten travellers tell all

by SiMOn bReDin phOtOgRaphS by anna LiSa Sang

ç Who Kansas

Chang, 18, high school student Where Back home to Shanghai, after visiting friends Carry-on “Gloves, snacks, blanket and extra shoes.”

How she’s passing time Listening to country music Dream destination “Northern Europe, particularly Sweden.”

è Who Lucas Porter-Bakker, 30

Where Back home to Hangzhou, China, after a business trip Carry-on “A couple of cameras, my laptop, passports, a copy of Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind by Yuval Noah Hara— and sweatpants.” Listening to Bach’s Goldberg Variations Dream destination The South Pole

Who Jose Villablanca, 32, personal trainer from Toronto Where Manila, Philippines Why “To visit family, to work and play.”

Carry-on “Laptop, highlighter, Post-its and the book Tools of Titan

by Tim Ferris” Dream destination “Somewhere spiritual, exotic and not well-travelled.

Maybe Myanmar.”

ê

è Who Beejay Duff, 38, works

for Starbucks International in Ottawa Where Cancun Why “My boyfriend and I are celebrating our 10-year anniversary.”

Carry-on “Two bathing suits, a cover-up, a pair of jeans, two pairs of shoes. Just enough for four days away.” Dream destination “Italy. We were there three years ago, in Rome, Florence and the Amalfi Coast. It was beautiful.”

INSIDER Who Ibrahim Diallo, 62, a staffer at the African Union Embassy in Egypt Where Back home to Cairo, after visiting relatives in Quebec for a month How he’s passing time Logging into Wi-Fi to check the African news. Dream destination “Singapore or Malaysia. The only continent I haven’t visited yet is Asia.”

ç

Who Neviem Moawad, 45, from Toronto Where Cairo Why Visiting family Carry-on “Victoria’s Secret fragrance I bought from the dutyfree shop.” Listening to “Mostly Arabic singers.” Dream destination Paris

ê

è Who Cyrus Cui, 17, and Ross Wang, 18,

Toronto students Where Beijing for Chinese New Year. “We’re just going back for the weekend.” Carry-on Books, extra clothes, chocolate Listening to Adele Dream destination Her: London. Him: Paris

ê Who Eliana Vicencio, 34,

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

PhD candidate originally from Chile Where Tokyo Why To study at the Tokyo Institute of Technology How she’s passing time “I have an eight-hour layover as part of a 30-hour trip from Chile to Japan. I’ve been watching YouTube videos, eating and drinking coffee.”

Dream destination China and Korea

ç Who Jenna Kelly, 21, retail employee

from Riverview, New Brunswick Where Tokyo Why “I’m going for fun.

My boyfriend lives there.”

Carry-on “Makeup, maple fudge, extra clothes.” Listening to “Radiohead and Coldplay.” Dream destination “Other than Tokyo? I’d like to visit Austria.”

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INSIDER anatomy

MaTCH GaME

Happy reunions at Toronto Pearson’s lost and found centre photographs by may truong

Toronto Pearson’s lost and found department is run by four coordinators, typically with one on shift at a time.

Of the thousands of calls they receive each month, one particularly poignant inquiry stands out. An elderly passenger asked about his missing cane, describing it in detail to the coordinator who took his call. The trouble is, so many canes matched the description.

The staffer narrowed it down to three, and emailed photos to the passenger. He decided to drop in to have a closer look, and there it was—the cane, which once belonged to his grandfather. The man became emotional: He explained it was the only item he had to remember his grandfather by.

Stories like these are not unusual at a place that reunites passengers with everything from teddy bears to engagement rings—not to mention the occasional hover board or flat-screen TV. Here, a day in the life of lost and found.

1 Visitors to the lost and found centre in Terminal 1, like this mom looking for her missing backpack, start at the help desk. The centre is open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. When someone comes in and describes their item, the team surveys its computer tracking system to see if there’s a match.

15,000 items were logged at Toronto Pearson in 2016

2 If they can’t find a particular possession that an owner describes, the team will log the item along with the owner’s contact info, and cross-reference the system whenever new items are turned in.

7,000 passengers filed reports of lost items in 2016

3 Phones, laptops, bags, reading glasses, tablets and anything else that’s turned in are organized in a 500-square-foot storage room. Items that are unclaimed after 30 days are either disposed of or, if in good condition, donated to a local charity.

14 away Spring 2017

40%

of all items are turned in from security checkpoints

4 There are approximately 100 coats at any given time in lost and found, as well as scores of pieces of luggage and cash in all denominations (the most valuable stuff is kept in the safe). Among the more unusual items Toronto Pearson has stored here: flat-screen TVs, dentures, bikes, one lone shoe, an air conditioning unit and a large suitcase filled with chocolates and candy.

35%

of all items are successfully reunited with their owners

5 Lately, canes have been outnumbering the unclaimed FitBits at the lost and found centre.

6 Last year, the team at lost and found created 7,000 reports for passengers looking to find their missing items.

7 Our grateful passenger is reunited with her backpack, which she misplaced at Terminal 1. The office handles items found in the terminals and parking garages. The team often gets inquiries for lost baggage and items left onboard the aircraft, but these items are handled by the individual airlines.

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the list Shop, dine, relax at toronto pearSon

Bar 120’s menu includes these chicken tacos along with an artful gin and tonic

Air FArE

PLayING wITH FOOD

PHOTOGRAPH BY AnnA LisA sAnG

Gastronomic advances come to Terminal 1’s Bar 120 Gourmands passing through Toronto Pearson are in luck: molecular gastronomy has come to Terminal 1’s Bar 120, where visitors can sample a caprese salad studded with balsamic pearls, or s’mores goosed with anti-griddled icy Nutella. “We like to take dishes that are iconic and familiar and transform them into the unexpected,” says chef John Placko, culinary director of Bar 120. Placko has

outfitted his kitchen with high-tech equipment— including a proper sous-vide setup and that nifty anti-griddle, which flash-freezes ingredients to produce creamy centres and crispy exteriors in seconds—and a team that’s been specially trained to execute his ambitious menu. The goal, he says, is to surprise and delight his patrons—“and to make their day a little more fun and delicious.”

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the list

style and beauty

TO GIVE OR TO GET

Fourteen great ideas that you might just keep for yourself PHOtOGRaPHs by lIaM MOGan

5

2

1

4

3

8

6

1 Ferragamo slides, $215, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. 2 Canada 150 bottles, $25 each, Watermark. 3 International adapter set, $12, Relay.

4 Sony DJ Style and Sound Headphones, $35, Relay. 5 Neck pillow, two for $30, Relay. 6 Canada to Colour colouring book, $19, Relay.

7 Gravol, $10, Relay. 8 Clif bars, $3 each, Relay.

See Toronto Pearson maps on pages 57-61 for retail locations

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

7

9 Nomad Blue Piston speaker, $35, iStore. 10 Michael Kors backpack, $220, The Duty Free Store by Nuance. 11 Dead Sea Salt Scrub, $32, The Body Shop.

12 Aromatherapy candle, $22, The Body Shop. 13 Kid’s T-shirt, $10, Watermark.

14 Folding Ray Ban sunglasses, $290, The Duty Free Store by Nuance.

See Toronto Pearson maps on pages 57-61 for retail locations

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

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the list

Et cEtEra

Culture break

Seven entertaining ways to spend time down on the ground or up in the air

BY Sarah LiSS

3

2

1 FILM based on Dave Eggers’s 2013 novel about the gradual unravelling of a seeming digital utopia, The Circle stars emma watson as a wide-eyed college grad who quickly climbs the corporate ladder at a high-profile tech firm—and inevitably offers up her personal life, relationships and moral compass for the good (and data-tracking benefit) of the company. Gripping and eerily plausible. (April 28) 2 ART Adopting an lGbTQ-rights tagline as its title, Love Is Love by Jean 20 away spring 2017

Paul Gaultier is a self-described “celebration of marriage [bringing] together straight, gay, intercultural and interracial unions to celebrate love and diversity” through the prism of 30 haute couture gowns created by the famed designer. Presented by the montreal museum of fine Art in collaboration with maison jean Paul Gaultier. (From May 27, 1380 Sherbrooke St. W., Montreal) 3 ART more than 100 of the legendary painter Georgia O’Keeffe’s works will be on display this spring

at the Art Gallery of Ontario.

The retrospective—an exciting partnership with the Tate modern— explores, among other things, the artist’s fascination with synaesthesia (the phenomenon whereby one sensory stimulus triggers another) and her interest in modernist photography. (From April 22, 317 Dundas St. W., Toronto) 4 FILM in the enigmatic and deeply unsettling Personal Shopper, a stammering kristen Stewart plays the beleaguered gofer for a top celeb

PHOTOGRAPHS: ART, GeORGiA O’keeffe, jimSOn weed/wHiTe flOweR nO.1, 1932, cRySTAl bRidGeS muSeum Of AmeRicAn ART, ARkAnSAS; ART, jeAn PAul GAulTieR, dAvid m. beneTT/GeTTy imAGeS

1

6

4

PHOTOGRAPHS: FicTiOn, nOn-FicTiOn, LiTTLe, bROwn And cOmPAny; muSic, nOneSucH RecORdS

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in Paris. when she’s not zipping between fashion houses on her motor scooter or lamenting her demoralizing job, Stewart’s character spends her time trying to contact the spirit of her dead twin brother— whose ghost, it seems, may have his own agenda. (March 24) 5 MUSIC A delightful example of truth in advertising, the 50 tracks on 50 Song Memoir—the latest droll, lilting offering from the Magnetic Fields—detail each year in frontman/ songwriter Stephin merritt’s half-

century on this planet. The album allegedly features more than 100 different instruments—from abacus to ukulele—all performed by merritt, who details highs and lows in his trademark doleful bass-baritone.

(Nonesuch, March 3 6 FICTION Startup is the debut novel from Doree Shafrir, a wickedly clever writer whose bona fides—she’s the senior culture writer at buzzfeed and was a mainstay of Gawker in its heyday—add bite to this delicious satire, an evisceration of

the infighting, one-upmanship and desperation that dominate both startup culture and gossip blogs.

(Little, Brown and Company, April 25) 7 NON-FICTION The roots of David Sedaris’s wry humour and unflinching observational acumen are on display in Theft By Finding (Diaries 1977–2002). A selection of highlights taken from 25 years of the author’s personal journals, these entries run the emotional gamut, but are tied together by Sedaris’s irrepressible wit.

(Little, Brown and Company, May 30) Spring 2017 away 21

explorer

Berlin’s

new The German cenTre of all ThinGs cool has iTs culinary cominG of aGe

by Mary Scherpe photographS by WilkoSz and Way

TasTes

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PHOTOGRAPHS: dAS bRuncH, RebeccA cRAwfORd

E

ven after centuries of turbulent history, Berlin is just now coming of age in so many ways. Much of the reason is that reunification is still fresh in everyone’s mind—only 27 years ago, the wall came down between East and West. Take the culinary scene: It’s maturing quickly yet still making charming rookie mistakes. It wasn’t so long ago that the only remarkable thing about food in Berlin was the proliferation of inexpensive currywursts (a kind of fast-food sausage served with spicy ketchup and fries). Today, new restaurants, bars and cafés open weekly, and chefs from all over the world move here to serve an increasingly hungry audience.

This has created, for the first time in the city’s history, a surplus of choice for savvy food lovers.

Let’s start with the biggest thing in Berlin right now: brunch. North Americans went through the brunch craze ages ago, but Berliners are just now immersed in a craze for poached eggs

Opposite page, top row: Ora, a former pharmacy turned midday haunt; the counter at Hallesches Haus. Opposite page, bottom: Brunch is the culinary obsession du jour in Berlin. This page: Scenes from an outdoor pop-up organized by Das Brunch and the candlelit charm of Ora.

on top of smashed avocados and sourdough.

Leading the hype is Das Brunch, a seasonal event that’s held in beautiful and unfamiliar pop-up spaces all over the city—among them an industrial courtyard, an indoor urban farm and a baroque East Berlin bookstore. Sisters Sophie and Xenia von Oswald serve creative plates of nourishing and delicious breakfast dishes influenced by their Iranian mother’s home cooking, as well as their Australian upbringing: Poached eggs come with haricot beans, kale and herbs, saffron hollandaise, charmoula-flavoured beets, haloumi-parsnip fritters, crushed harissa carrots and marinated chickpeas.

Then there’s the beloved German midday tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake), which now has a few modern adherents.

One of the most beautiful spots to enjoy a midday sweet kick is Ora, a former pharmacy turned coffee house in the centre of Kreuzberg that retains the old-timey, rosewood apothecary interior and combines it with contemporary accents, great cocktails and a top-notch cake spring 2017 away 23

explorer display. Try the intense chocolate tartlets filled with liquid sea-salt caramel.

Another prime spot to spend the day soaking up café culture is Hallesches Haus in Kreuzberg, a contemporary general store with impeccably designed products combined with a menu heavy on brunch (obviously) and lunch.

Located in a former 1900s post office, the space has soaring ceilings, antique marble, vintage wood furniture and Prouvé’s Potence lamps— adding up to one of the most beautiful interiors in Berlin. The clientele is young and creative, the food casual and expertly prepared.

The French toast is made from crusty bread provided by the city’s best Italian baker, Sironi.

Berlin is both a highly political city and a cultrual anachronism. One example of this is Kanaan, a deli in Prenzlauer Berg owned by thirtysomethings Oz Ben David, who is Israeli, and Jalil Dabit, a Christian from Palestine. The partners create dishes inspired by many other Middle Eastern traditions. Here, Yemenite flatbread is filled like an Israeli sabich sandwich, thick yogurt is flavoured with Persian rosewater and topped with traditional German blackberry jam and shakshouka is served on top of outstandingly delicious hummus.

Finally, there’s the fine dining aspect to Berlin’s restaurant landscape. Located in the quiet stretch of Friedrichstrasse behind an unassuming storefront, Nobelhart & Schmutzig adheres strictly to the radical idea of exclusively using local ingredients. This means they work without squid or cilantro, and don’t use pepper or lemon. The result is a new focus on the subtle yet elegant flavours of underappreciated ingredients that grow in the vicinity of the city. In a chic yet casual interior dominated by the big open kitchen, the team serves a tasting menu of charred leeks topped with refreshing pickled elderberries, a sauce made from craft beer and Jerusalem artichokes with sunflower seed milk, chicory and peppery ground ivy herbs.

As is the norm in Berlin, neither the cooking nor the spare, light-wood interior is particularly showy. Theatricalism is not this city’s thing. It’s more about delivering the goods, one flavourful bite after the next.

Clockwise from top: Hanging greenery and spare decor at Hallesches Haus; the restaurant’s fruit-zinged French toast and in-house general store; the local fare, open kitchen and dining room at Nobelhart & Schmutzig; the Palestinian-Israeli cooking and old-world signage at Kanaan.

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FLy Air Canada flies direct from Toronto Pearson to Berlin Tegel, one of two international airports in the city.

BERlin’s nEw BRunch cRazE has nouRishEd a cREativE appRoach to moRning mEals

CHIC STay Among the many stylish hotels in this design-minded city is the Soho House Berlin, occupying much of a Bauhaus building close to Alexanderplatz and Mitte’s shopping hub. Its high-end clubby looks are set against the building’s original peelingpaint walls. From $250 a night; sohohouseberlin.com. wILD STay For a funkier option, there’s 25hours Hotel Bikini, converted by architect Werner Aisslinger from a 1950s West Berlin tower. It’s A Clockwork Orange meets concrete brutalism, with slogan art on the walls, bikes suspended from the ceiling and “jungle” rooms that look out over the animals at the Berlin Zoo. From $200 a night; 25hours-hotels.com.

MUST DO Nearly 200 kilometres of waterways wind through Berlin, making this a great city to survey by kayak or boat. Particularly worthwhile are the one-hour boat tours that begin and end at Hauptbahnhof pier. They glide past all the greatest hits, including the old East-West border crossing known as the Palace of Tears and the Reichstag parliamentary building dating back to 1884 and redesigned and expanded by Norman Foster in the 1980s and 1990s. reederei-riedel.de

11 hours from Toronto Pearson with one connection

Berlin

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26 away SPRING 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

Seljalandsfoss, the 60m waterfall in South Iceland where we camped our first night

explorer

GREEN aCRES I always wanted to visit bucolic, breathtaking Iceland with my boyfriend. I finally wound up in this epicentre of beauty and romance—with my brother

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

by Rachel Tennenhouse PhoToGRaPhs by MaRK Tennenhouse

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explorer

“In case the only food Is fermented shark meat, we can survIve on water and two clIf bars a day,” my brother texted. It was almost mIdnIght, and we were supposed to meet In reykjavIk the next day. “we have 30 bars. and I got your raIn pants.” I decIded It wasn’t the rIght moment to mentIon I hate clIf bars.

I was supposed to go to Iceland four years ago with my now ex-boyfriend. Northern vacations weren’t trendy at the time, and understandably so: A country straddling the Arctic Circle that endures 19 hours of darkness a day in the winter may not resonate as an obvious holiday spot. But we were taken by the idea of a volcanic island with cities lit up by geothermal fields, rivers that run hot and a chance to see orcas. Our initial plan was to drive the “ring road”—the 1,332 km route encircling the country. Months later, though, my romance and my road-trip dreams were both kaput.

Years afterwards, and with boyfriends in short supply, I volleyed the idea of an Iceland trip to my brother, Mark. The last time we travelled together was in 2011, when we rented an apartment in the 19th arrondissement in Paris. There, he’d spent a month declaring that British Columbia was more beautiful than anywhere in France, and I made a personal vow never to vacation with him again. But surely volcanoes could impress even a Rocky Mountains-spoiled cynic.

“We can camp!” I enthused, knowing his love for wilderness trips. I sent him Google image search results of puffins. “And if we go in the summer,” I prodded, “they have day all night.”

We met at Keflavik International Airport, about a 40-minute drive from Reykjavik, picked up our rental car and hit the road for the ferry to Vestmannaeyjar, or the Westman Islands—an archipelago off the south coast of the country. The islands are home to the largest 28 away SPRING 2017

Clockwise from top: The Eldhraun lava field in south Iceland dates back to a devastating eight-month eruption in 1783; in MÜðrudalur in northeast Iceland, hay bales are encased in white plastic, evoking a field of marshmallows; horses grazing in South Iceland.

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This page: Hverir, a geothermal region in the North (top), is spattered with blue and green mineral deposits; paths weave around bubbling mud and fumaroles emitting clouds of hot gas (bottom). Next page: Puffins on the cliffs of Dyrhólaey (top); Mark standing at the pier in the quiet East Fjord fishing town Fáskrúðsfjörður (bottom).

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puffin colony in the world, as well as a volcano that erupted as recently as 1973, destroying half a fishing town while increasing the main island’s land area by more than two square kilometres.

I wanted to see what nascent ground looked like.

It was drizzling as we drove east through desolate tar-black flatlands—like the Canadian Prairies gone wrong, or the wastelands of Mordor. (Tolkien took inspiration for his books from Iceland; turns out the man had no imagination at all.) Mountains emerged softly from the mist like waves, and the often steaming volcanic fields surrounding us evolved into what we recognized immediately as lava, craggy and moss-covered. An opaque white fog began to encroach: two hours in, and we were spooked.

Mark plugged in his iPod—in addition to high-energy snacks, he’d come with an entire sociology course (“American Society: How it really works”). It was a comforting soundtrack given the absurd context of racing through lava fields with a storm brewing.

We were met at the port by ferocious waves pounding a black beach—had the ferry been running, I wouldn’t have dared get on. The islands loomed phantom-like in the distance, and Mark insisted we’d be back.

We slept that night instead at the foot of Seljalandsfoss, our first waterfall. We sipped cups of noodle soup, our tent shaking violently in the wind. I tried not to convey my panic that we’d be suffering through rain and fog all week, eating Clif bars, unable to see what I knew were breathtaking views. I felt guilty for dragging Mark across the ocean—this was my idea, after all. But I was buoyed by his insistence that this was already the most beautiful place he’d ever seen. So there, British Columbia.

We were back on the road early the next morning, stopping at Dyrhólaey (literally, “hill island with the door hole”—an accurate, if not poetic, name), where we saw our first puffins, flapping their little wings cartoonishly in the strong winds. We spent the night at a glacier, and the days following watching icebergs float slowly to sea, walking gingerly around powerful heat vents and grey puddles belching mud.

Overwhelmed by the scale and strangeness of the landscape, we debated which god it made more sense to pray to: volcano or glacier.

Days passed and we hadn’t yet fought. But it crept up on us: Mark started to protest my reading Lonely Planet aloud in the car. Also, it wasn’t clear who was more stressed out by my driving. I’d barely driven in the 10 years since I’d lived in the level suburbs of Winnipeg; a winding mountain highway with a sheer drop to an icy sea wasn’t the place to reorient.

OVERwhElmEd by thE land, wE dEbatEd which gOd tO pRay tO: VOlcanO OR glaciER

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Mark said he could hear the sweat pooling in my shoes. So I sat passenger most of the time, trying to compensate for my wimpiness with road-stop snacks, usually hot dogs. (Practically a national dish, they’re sold everywhere and made out of lamb—apparently Iceland’s large sheep population contributes to more than their expensive wool sweaters.) But things were getting tense in the car.

On day six we knew we could make it back to the Westman Islands. We sped along, stopping to peer into steep ravines or to admire golden, soulful-eyed petite horses while squabbling over which podcast to listen to (sociology lectures won’t get you around the country, it turns out). We picked up hitchhikers to avoid 32 away SPRING 2017

talking to each other and continued on our loop.

This time, we made it aboard the ferry.

We spotted a whale on the way to the islands, and collected rocks that appeared increasingly fluorescent as we climbed Eldfell—the volcano that, along with a series of erupting fissures across the island, had unleashed a “wall of fire” 44 years ago. Sitting at the peak, I was moved and almost scared. Iceland felt young, alive and unreliable, so unlike the seeming constancy of the Canadian Prairies where we grew up. On the way down, Mark teased me for slipping on the steep slopes, my shoes filling with black and neon gravel.

We promised that we’d both come back someday. But maybe not together.

Clockwise from left: Vatnajökul glacier; the campsite at the Seljalandsfoss waterfall; a burst of vegetation growing next to the mouth of the Vatnajökul glacier; writer Rachel Tennenhouse with her brother, Mark.

largest glacier and limitless, waterfall-studded trails. $19 a night. vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is

FLY Air Canada, Wow and Icelandair fly direct from Toronto Pearson to Keflavik International Airport, 50 km west of Reykjavik.

CAMP Pitch your tent at Vatnajökull National Park, home to Iceland’s

5.5 hours non-stop from Toronto Pearson

STAY In the formerly French fishing village of Fáskrúðsfjörður, the new Fosshotel Eastfjords sits on the water with a stunning mountain view. From $135 a night. fosshotel.is EAT Gott, a cosy-casual restaurant in the heart of Vestmannaeyjar’s downtown, serves healthy, organic fare—a respite from roadside dining. gott.is

KeflaviK

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e r u C t l l ub u C There’s a great new reason to book a trip to Stockholm: The museums are free

by Jason Mcbride illustrations by leeandra cianci

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S

tockholm is often called the Venice of the North because of its comparably aquatic setting—the stunning Swedish capital is spread out over 14 different islands connected by dozens of bridges. But the nickname is also an inadvertent nod to the city’s thriving art scene. The largest city in Scandinavia, Stockholm is home to roughly 70 different museums and countless galleries, large and small. The collections found in these institutions rival the world’s great cultural

centres, but what makes Stockholm’s museums even more appealing is that most of them now offer free admission. Last February, Sweden’s Social Democrat government eliminated the entrance fees at 18 state-owned museums (most of which are located in Stockholm), making the country’s cultural smorgasbord as accessible as it is eclectic.

The move was a bid to attract a more diverse range of visitors, though Stockholm’s museums already offered something for almost every traveller, whether newbie or aficionado, culture vulture or history buff. Dinosaur devotees, for example, will want to visit the Naturhistorika riksmuseet or Museum of Natural History (though note that the Cosmova, the museum’s IMAX theatre, does charge for tickets).

The Moderna Museet (Modern Art Museum) has one of Europe’s finest collections of contemporary art, including major works

by Picasso, Matisse and Andy Warhol, who had his first non-American exhibition here in the 1960s. Vikings fans—we’re looking at you,

PHOTOGRAPHS: ARKDES, mATTi ÖSTlinG; mODERnA muSEET, STAffAn vOn zEiPEl.

Left: Getting hands-on at ArkDes, the architecture and design centre that resides in the same complex as the Moderna Museet. Below: Artist Yayoi Kusama’s installation Narcissus Garden at the same museum.

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Josh Donaldson—should pop into the Historiska Museet (Swedish History Museum), and students of architecture and history can’t pass up the Skokloster Castle, considered one of the greatest castles of Baroque Europe and preserved for the last 300 years. Visitors with little ones can find lots to do at ArkDes, the national centre for architecture and design, where budding starchitects can build their own miniature cities.

Stockholm’s many private museums—which include the renowned Vasa Museet, a maritime museum built around a preserved 17th-century warship, and ABBA: the Museum, devoted to Sweden’s best-known pop sensation—may not be entirely gratis, but several offer free admission to children and youth under 18.

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If you’re planning to visit even just three museums, a Stockholm Pass—which starts at 595 Swedish Krona (about $90) and provides free entry to more than 60 major attractions, as well as canal and bus tours—will definitely save you a few kronor. ABBA may not have had their native city in mind when they sang “Mamma Mia,” but, honestly, Stockholm—how can you resist it?

PHOTOGRAPH: livRusTkAmmARen OcH skOklOsTeRs slOTT

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PHOTOGRAPHS: STATenS HiSTORiSkA muSeeT, kATARinA nimmeRvOll; jAbin bOTSfORd/GeTTy imAGeS; jOnATHAn nAckSTRAnd/GeTTy imAGeS

Opposite page: Inside Skokloster, the Baroque castle on Lake Mälaren between Stockholm and Uppsala. This page, clockwise from left: A viking helmet at the Historiska Museet, inside ABBA: the Museum and the famous Vasa Museet, built around a 17th-century warship.

FLY Air canada flies from Toronto Pearson to Stockholm Arlanda Airport, stopping in copenhagen to switch to Scandinavian Airlines.

STAY miss clara, a seven-storey boutique hotel in the middle of the city, is both affordable and elegant. Swedish architect Gert Wingardh

is responsible for the spare, modernist art, furniture and lighting. from $250 a night. missclarahotel.com DO A great way to scoot from one museum to the next is to rent from Stockholm’s city bikes. find one at 140 docking stations around the city.

Helmets are optional in Sweden. citybikes.se

10 hours (with one stop) from Toronto Pearson

Stockholm

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The

light in norTh AfricA

A photographic journal of Morocco—from the Sahara desert to the snow-capped mountains

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

by Ian Patterson

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The journey from Fez to Marrakech passes through Ouarzazate (below), a Saharan city nicknamed the “door of the desert� and featured as a filmmaking location for Gladiator and Game of Thrones. Above: Our desert guide, Hassan, and (right) a restaurant server in Tinghir.

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Clockwise from top: Hiking through Imlil, a village in the high Atlas Mountains of Morocco; a rooftop view of the warren of streets in Marrakech; Abraham, one of our guides in the snow-dusted mountains.

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Roadside restaurants, fruit stands and lemon groves add to the ultra-bright colourscape of Morocco.

Above left: a barbecue lunch and fresh orange juice in the Dades Valley. Opposite: a breakfast version of tagine, a Berber dish named after the earthenware pot it cooks in.

FLY TAP Portugal flies from Toronto Pearson to Menara Airport in Marrakech via one stop in Lisbon.

TOUR A variety of operators organize guided excursions through the Sahara desert between the city of Marrakech and the cultural capital of Fez. Tours are either private or shared, from two to four days in length, and start at around $85 for a two-day

trek from Marrakech to Zagora. marrakech-desert-trips.com SEE AND DO To get the full range of landscapes, travel through Ifrane, a winter ski resort built to resemble a Swiss village, stop at Berber villages, ride a camel through the Saharan expanse and visit the cliff-sided Toghda Gorge near the town of Tinerhir and the neighbouring canyons around the Dades River.

11 hours and 30 minutes (with one stop) from Toronto Pearson

MARRAKECH

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the great outdoors Canada’s national parks are free to explore in 2017, thanks to a Parks Canada Discovery Pass (see pc.gc.ca).

Here are eight beauties you definitely don’t want to miss by jessica wynne lockhart

newfoundland and labrador

gros morne national park

Gros Morne literally translates to “great sombre.” It was actually named for Newfoundland’s second-highest mountain peak, but perhaps there’s a lesson here—namely that you’ll need to stay away from the province’s famous screech to truly enjoy everything the park has to offer.

For starters, a clear head and an early getaway may be necessary to complete the eight-hour day hike to the top of Gros Morne Mountain.

The views are worth it; you’ll be able to see the park’s fjords, glacial valleys and coastal lowland from the 806-metre–high arctic-alpine plateau.

This jaw-dropping landscape was created about 500 million years ago, when the earth’s tectonic plates collided. A rare example of continental drift, it’s a geology nerd’s dream.

The park’s beauty has long made it a go-to spot for visual artists. In Woody Point’s historic heritage theatre, you can attend everything from plays to concerts to readings, while the park itself offers a residency program. For the rest of us, there’s kayaking, boat tours, skiing and kilometres of sandy beaches. As it turns out, Gros Morne might not be so sombre after all.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

Behold an East Coast stunner with jaw-dropping, art-inspiring vistas

PHOTOGRAPHS: OPPOSiTe, cOuRTeSy deSTinATiOn cAnAdA; P.e.i, Aimin TAnG/iSTOck

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prince edward island

PRince edwARd iSlAnd nATiOnAl PARk If relaxation is your end game, you’ll find it here

It’s impossible to imagine how feisty Anne Shirley could have let her temper get the better of her, considering the idyllic location of Green Gables. Anne would have only had to walk a short distance past the Lake of Shining Waters (yes, it’s a real place) to reach the red sand and warm salt waters of Cavendish Beach.

If we’d grown up in Prince Edward Island National Park, along the province’s north shore, we’d find it very hard to ever get mad. In addition to containing the home of our literary heroine, this 40-kilometre strip of coastline offers red cliffs, sand dunes, salt marshes and beaches galore.

It’s the kind of place where you spend your days peacefully cycling along the seaside, strolling down boardwalks or bird watching.

We could try to sell you on the park, but we think it’s best left in the hands of Canada’s favourite red-headed orphan: “Look at that sea, girls—all silver and shadow and visions of things not seen.

We couldn’t enjoy its loveliness any more if we had millions of dollars and ropes of diamonds.”

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quebec

saguenay-st. lawrence marine park From whales to sea cucumbers, the underwater world is here to discover

While watching whales frolic can be a life-changing experience, one thing can quickly put a damper on the whole situation—seasickness. Luckily, viewing Canada’s marine life doesn’t have to mean heading out to sea. At the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, it just means making a three-hour journey east of Quebec City.

Here, at the mouth of the Saguenay River, the waters mix with the St. Lawrence estuary to provide a rich food supply for whales, including belugas. Nearly 900 live in the St. Lawrence year-round, and spend their summers in the marine park.

Hikes and viewing platforms will allow you to watch the whales at play. Or you can visit the Marine Environment Discovery Centre, where you can see through the eyes of diverinterpreters, who live-stream their discoveries as they explore the local habitat for starfish, anemones and sea cucumber. Snorkellers and divers can explore the unique sea life firsthand.

Sea kayakers can also tour the islands of the Saguenay Fjord, paddling past cliffs that reach heights of up to 300 metres. Then again, if you’ve got your sea legs—or access to a box of Gravol— boat tours are also on offer.

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ontario

Fathom Five national park Dive into one of the world’s best scuba destinations

PHOTOGRAPHS: iSTOck

Roatan, Honduras, Kao Tao, Thailand, the Great Barrier Reef and. . .Lake Huron, Ontario? It might seem hard to believe, but arguably one of the best places to scuba dive is located in the great white north, just off Bruce Peninsula National Park.

While you’d be hard-pressed to find any coral or tropical fish in the waters of Fathom Five National Park, there’s still plenty to discover. Divers are drawn here by the 22 historic shipwrecks, including Sweepstakes, a schooner that, er, lost the sweepstakes when it sank to the bottom of the lake in 1885. For the fish-phobic, glass-bottom boat tours allow you to explore the lower depths of Canada’s first national marine park without getting wet.

The treasures of Fathom Five aren’t, however, entirely hidden underwater.

There are also 20 islands, including the most well-known, Flowerpot Island, named for its huge rock pillars carved by wave and ice erosion. Only accessible by boat or kayak, the island has six tenting sites, several caves, a lighthouse and a century-old light-keeper’s house that operates as a museum.

If you’re here for the diving, though, just remember one thing: We said that it’s one of the best places to scuba dive—not one of the warmest. Bring your wetsuit.

manitoba

wAPuSk nATiOnAl PARk A showcase of northern life—with more polar bears than people

Canadians love a good census stat, so here’s a trivia question. Which has a larger population: the northern town of Churchill, Manitoba or nearby Wapusk National Park, an 11,475-square-kilometre nature preserve on the shores of Hudson Bay? Surprisingly, Wapusk is the winner here— but only if we’re including bears. As one of the world’s largest polar bear maternity denning areas, the park’s population is slightly larger than that of Churchill; approximately 935 bears call the area home. Photographers gather here to capture male bears, which can weigh up to 700 kilograms, and to watch mothers and cubs emerge from their dens in the springtime.

Helicopter tours showcase the landscape from above, while snowmobiles and tundra buggies carry visitors on the ground. You can also get a feel for how fur traders lived 250 years ago at the nearby Prince of Wales Fort.

Within the vast wilderness—an area comprising bogs, Arctic tundra and boreal forest— other inhabitants include Arctic foxes, hares, caribou and wolverines. But Wapusk, which is Cree for “white bear,” is an exclusive community with no road access. You’ll need to hire a guide via an authorized tour operator, as the furry residents of the region don’t make the friendliest of neighbours.

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explorer saskatchewan

grasslands national park

Epic views and stunning stars in the heart of the Prairies

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

Instagram would have you believe that the only legitimate outdoor adventures take place on mountain peaks. Well, we’re here to let you in on a secret: Canada’s most intense park is actually hidden deep in the unassuming Prairies.

It might seem hard to believe; after all, Grasslands National Park is literally where the buffalo roam while the deer and the antelope play. But make no mistake—a visit to this park is for the hardcore: Rattlesnakes, black widow spiders and even quicksand are all found in the surprisingly diverse landscape, which features badlands, coulees with epic views and historic homesteads.

This is the Prairies exactly as they looked hundreds of years ago.

When you’re done looking for the ancient tipi rings that dot the park, settle down in your very own tipi to admire the Dark Sky Preserve’s brilliant stars. During the summer months, the park hosts tours, including sunset horseback and wagon rides. So while there’s a fair share of extreme adventures to be had, this park is also perfect—and perfectly safe—for adventurers-in-training.

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alberta

jasper national park

PHOTOGRAPHS: OPPOSiTe, deSTinATiOn cAnAdA; jASPeR, PeTeR wey/STOckSy; GwAi HAAnAS, THOmAS PiePkA/deSTinATiOn cAnAdA

Think Banff is the greatest? Think again

The Oilers versus the Flames may be the most notorious rivalry in Alberta, but it’s not the only clash between the North and South. There’s another contest that usually goes off record—the battle for the greatest national park.

So just how well does Jasper stack up against Banff ?

Jasper National Park is arguably the underdog in this face-off, with fewer visitors per year than the southern heavyweight— but it’s the definitive winner in a number of categories. Among its bragging rights, Jasper is the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies. It has the most expansive trail network of any national park in Canada, with nearly 1,000 kilometres of hiking trails and 300 kilometres of bikefriendly paths. Jasper is also the secondlargest Dark Sky Preserve in the world, making it the ideal home for the annual Dark Sky Festival, which has attracted science celebs like George Takei and Bill Nye. It’s a tough competition, but the good news is you don’t need to pick a side.

Root for both teams by cruising down the Icefields Parkway—keeping an eye out for elk and bighorn sheep along the way—and you’ll find that the two parks become one.

Passport 2017 is made possible in part by the Government of Canada

british columbia

GwAii HAAnAS nATiOnAl PARk ReSeRve An Emily Carr painting come to life

Canada loves its literal place names. Cases in point: Goodsoil, Saskatchewan (a farming community) and Mosquito Cove, Newfoundland (no explanation necessary). Many of these owe their origins to direct translations from First Nations languages. Had the name “Gwaii Haanas” been translated literally, it would have been no less captivating or accurate: “Islands of Beauty.”

It’s easy to see why. For the 2,000 people who are lucky enough to set foot in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site each year, it’s like stepping directly into an Emily Carr painting, complete with striking green rainforests and historic totem poles. While most of the park is forested, it also features rugged mountains with peaks reaching up to 1,100 metres, freshwater lakes and sub-alpine tundra.

Accessible only by boat or plane, Gwaii Haanas is the singular place in the world to be protected from mountaintop to seafloor.

The latter is especially important—and not just because humpback whales feed and salmon spawn here. The reserve’s rich history dates as far back as 14,000 years. Archaeological sites, including what may be the oldest known settlement in Canada, have been found far below the water’s surface. It’s just one of the 500 identified Haida heritage sites scattered throughout the park’s 138 islands.

jessica wynne lockhart explores all of canada’s national parks on Passport 2017, an event-discovery website and free app that’s your guide to thousands of stories and celebrations marking the 150th anniversary of confederation. discover more at passport2017.ca and download the free app at the App Store (iOS) or on Google Play (Android)

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Drop everything and fly.

Any airline, every seat, no blackouts.

cibc.com/flynow

*Trademark of Visa International, used under license. The Contactless Indicator is a trademark of EMV Co. LLC. CIBC Cube Design & “Banking that fits your life.� are trademarks of CIBC. All other trademarks are owned by CIBC.

d e tour s

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tk Tk Tk TkTk

City guideS deSigned by expertS

Catching air at Venice Beach in Los Angeles

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d e to u r s

los angeles No two “hype” neighbourhoods are alike in a city of food, fashion and cars

YOUR GUIDE instagram star Remi ishizuka grew up in monterey Park, east of downtown los Angeles. since then, ishizuka has lived in Pasadena, koreatown and nearby Orange county. she’s now settled down in mid-city.

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HOTEL with cement walls and floor-to-ceiling windows, koreatown’s The Line Hotel is l.A. at its modern best. Try its commissary restaurant, where diners sit in a greenhouse by the pool. from $340/night. thelinehotel.com

FOOD ON THE GO Though it’s been feeding l.A. since 1917, downtown’s Grand Central Market has kept pace with the times and the trends. locals politely line up for of-the-moment treats at vendors like Tacos Tumbras a Tomas. grandcentralmarket.com

MUSIC After a stroll past the graves of Hollywood stars like Rudoph valentino, mickey Rooney and douglas fairbanks, take in a concert on the grassy lawn of the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. make like the locals and bring a blanket and picnic basket. hollywoodforever.com

LOCAL SECRET Row, a downtown l.A. transformation project, has become a great place to discover hip retailers, pop-up shops and food. rowdtla.com

DAY TRIP Head to Pacific Palisades, where you can have tea at the J. Paul Getty Museum, then drive north to malibu farm Pier café and explore the caves of el matador state beach. dine at nobu’s amazing waterfront location in malibu.

NEIGHBOURHOOD Culver City is having a renaissance.

Hike to the baldwin Hills scenic Overlook, then check out juice bars, bakeries and home décor shops.

CULTURAL VENUE just two years old, The Broad museum of contemporary art has already made a significant impact, showcasing work by cindy sherman, jeff koons, Andy warhol and Roy lichtenstein. its exterior, a distinctive honeycomb veil, can be considered a work of art itself. thebroad.org

Los AngeLes

five hours direct from Toronto on Air canada, American Airlines and westjet

PHOTOGRAPHs: PReviOus PAGe, clAy sTAnG; HOTel, AdRiAn GAuT; fOOd, jAcOb n. lAymAn; culTuRAl venue, iwAn bAAn; dAy TRiP, liz ikiRikO

Los Angeles is a very different city when you wander away from Hollywood Boulevard, but it’s still a place where everyone you run into is aspiring to be a star. Each neighbourhood is singular: in one, you might be within walking distance of cafés, galleries and cool shops with hype kids lined up outside. In others, you drive from one plaza to the next, hunting down the best taco trucks or Korean food in California. Driving around is part of the experience. Roll your windows down, listen to the music you want and get in your zone. But you also want to get out of your car—to seek spectacular views along hiking trails or to perch on rooftops and terraces and gaze out at the city.

birmingham Industrial centre no more—this might be the most exciting city in the U.K.

PHOTOGRAPHs: dAyTRiP, jAck TAylOR/ GeTTy imAGes; fine dininG, jim vARney

Many people still think of Birmingham as an industrial town. But in the last five years, it’s become one of the most vibrant cities in Britain. Today, when you look at the skyline, all you can see are cranes. We have a swagger and pride that didn’t previously exist. Bars and restaurants are opening up every week. The new Grand Central train station looks like a cool spaceship.

We’ve also got The Cube, a mixed-use development

by Ken Shuttleworth, who designed the Gherkin in London. Still, the city remains very friendly and open. Brummies have the best sense of humour in the U.K. We laugh at ourselves and we have fun. Find out for yourself: walk up to a stranger and start talking.

It’s the best way to get a flavour of our city.

YOUR GUIDE A long-time breakfast show host for the Heart West midlands radio station, ed james is an “adopted Brummie.” (locals call Birmingham “Brum.”)

Originally from yorkshire, he’s become one of the city’s biggest boosters.

ATTRACTION The weekly street food festival called Digbeth Dining Club is the perfect introduction to Brum’s flourishing food scene. it’s also a great place to chat up the locals about what to see and do. digbethdiningclub.co.uk

DAY TRIP The birthplace of William shakespeare, Stratford-upon-Avon is a beautiful small city—full of history and anchored, of course, by a major theatre festival. Hiring a boat for a sail down the Avon is good for the soul. visitstratforduponavon.co.uk

COCKTAILS On top of the space-agey cube building, 25 storeys up, Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill has the city’s best views both day and night. drinks are excellent, but it’s fine for any kind of hanging out, whether for a cup of tea or a full meal from the classic British menu. mpwrestaurants.co.uk/ restaurants/steakhousebirmingham/

STUFF 1. Balti, a type of curry that lends its name to the Balti Triangle, the city’s densest concentration of indian restaurants.

2. Though HP Sauce is no longer made in Birmingham, this is where it originated. hpsauce.co.uk 3. chocolate, after taking a tour of the Cadbury World exhibition in nearby Bournville. cadburyworld.co.uk 4. A retro wool newsboy hat, as worn by the gangsters on the British Tv hit Peaky Blinders, set in Birmingham just after World War i.

CULTURAL VENUE At the Birmingham Hippodrome, enthusiastic audiences make for the liveliest shows. The theatre stages everything from West end musicals and opera to stand-up comedy. birminghamhippodrome.com FINE DINING celebrity chef Glynn Purnell’s eponymous eatery turns dining into a theatrical experience, employing the best ingredients for his seasonal tasting menus. even classics like lamb and squash get a Purnell twist. purnellsrestaurant.com

6 hours 5 minutes direct from Toronto on Air Transat

Birmingham

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d e to u r s

dÜsseldorf Sure, it’s a business hub, but this German city also draws culture’s finest

YOUR GUIDE An Aussie who sang with the sydney Opera House’s children’s choir, James martin studied in london and mannheim before moving to dÜsseldorf to sing at the city’s Opera House in 2005.

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ATTRACTION The historic centre, the Altstadt, is mostly pedestrians-only, giving it a wonderful atmosphere. Along with museums, galleries, shops and bars, several breweries lend the neighbourhood a distinctive charm. duesseldorf-altstadt.de

COCKTAILS named after artist, professor and Andy Warhol cohort Joseph beuys, Beuys Bar showcases an everchanging art collection in its long, narrow space. beuys-bar.de MUSIC Originally built in the 1920s as a planetarium, Tonhalle Düsseldorf was rebuilt as a concert hall when the original was destroyed. Though the primary tenant is the city’s famed symphony orchestra, the elegant venue hosts a range of musical events. tonhalle.de

LOCAL SECRET many of the 18th- and 19th-century buildings of Carlstadt, just south of Altstadt, are built around central courtyards. some can’t be seen from the street, while others contain cafés and shops.

Poke around Hohe strasse and disappear into another world.

STUFF 1. Plop-top beer from local brewers like Uerige or Schumacher. uerige.de, schumacher-alt.de 2. made since 1726, ABB mustard is a local staple. abb-duesseldorfermostert.de 3. Killepitsch. This herb-infused liqueur is starting to catch on outside of the city. killepitsch.de CASUAL DINING Plush and cosmopolitan, but not over-the-top, Williams Bar offers everything from goat cheese appetizers to rack of lamb. The whimsical drinks menu is just as wide-ranging. williams-bar.com

LOCAL TRADITION düsseldorf celebrates the Karneval tradition with contemporary flair.

The elaborate floats famously don’t shy away from sharp commentary on world events. karneval party season runs from november right up to Ash Wednesday.

9 hours 5 minutes DüsselDorf from Toronto through Frankfurt

PHOTOGRAPHs: ATTRAcTiOn, ullsTein bild/GeTTy imAGes; cAsuAl dininG, TObiAs OeHlke

Düsseldorf is consistently ranked one of the best places in the world to live.

It’s a centre for fashion, advertising and music.

It’s both a traditional city and a modern one. The people are open and vibrant—perhaps more so than anywhere else in Germany—as you’ll see in any pub or bar in Düsseldorf. And the city is constantly reinventing itself. Check out Kö-Bogen (“the King’s Bow”), architect Daniel Libeskind’s curving, rippling office and retail complex that now hugs the Königsallee, the city’s best shopping street.

Or the new underground train system—it’s full of modern art, with each station designed by a strikingly different artist.

doha Ancient tradition

PHOTOGRAPHs: ATTRAcTiOn, GeTTy imAGes; dAy TRiP, seAn GAlluP/GeTTy imAGes; culTuRAl venue, sHAimA Al TAmimi; sTuff, GOdOnG/GeTTy imAGes

meets contemporary design in the capital city of Qatar I love Doha most on Friday mornings. That’s when I drive down the Corniche Promenade and see the tall white sails of the dhow boats at sea, juxtaposed with the concrete and glass towers on land. You feel like you’re somewhere both new and old. The centre of the city is full of futuristic architecture, but moving outwards, visitors can experience the real side of Doha—the one that’s not trying so hard.

Wardrobe always seems to be a hot topic for tourists: Men are forbidden from baring their chests or wearing shorts; women can’t wear short dresses or sleeveless and cropped clothing.

Doha is a friendlier city than most people think, but newcomers still need to be aware of the culture and traditions.

YOUR GUIDE An avid traveller and photographer, shaima Al Tamimi works in the community outreach department at the doha film institute, for which she hosts and attends events all over the city.

ATTRACTION Though it was renovated a decade ago, Souq Waqif maintains the allure of a traditional middle eastern marketplace, bustling with vendors of spices, jewellery, fabrics, handicrafts and an astonishing array of food.

HOTEL The Kempinski Residences and Suites has all the amenities of a family-friendly beach resort, as well as impressive installations by international artists. in a city of skyscrapers, it’s one of the tallest. from $320/night. kempinski.com

DAY TRIP Book a 4X4 for an excursion to Qatar’s Inland Sea. Adventurous types can go “dune bashing,” speeding their vehicles over and into massive sand dunes. dubaidunebashing.com STUFF 1. Frankincense is frequently used in Qatari homes to welcome guests or celebrate a special occasion.

2. in souq Waqif, haggle over handwoven rugs featuring traditional Qatari patterns.

3. Qatari dates make a great snack to take home.

CULTURAL VENUE The Museum of Islamic Art is not known merely for its impressive permanent collection, special exhibitions and gorgeous i.m. Pei building. it also has a park that’s perfect for picnicking. mia.org.qa DRINKS With alcohol available only at hotels, try a juice cocktail at one of the vendors in Souq Waqif.

15.5 hours from Toronto through london Heathrow

Doha

Spring 2017 away 55

PAW Patrol Takes Flight!

Ryder and his friends have landed at Pearson!

Visit our action-packed installation, featuring a Lookout Tower, mini-playground and high-tech video station located at Terminal 1 Gates 55-57!

Š Spin Master PAW Productions Inc.

409

AIRPORT ROAD

427

TERMINAL 3

INFO

MAPS BY ALICE CHO

For online guides to Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, go to torontopearson.com

TERMINAL 1

Terminal Link Train UP Express

SPRING 2017 AWAY 57

wa y f i n d e r

D28 TO GATES D1–D12

D11 D12

D9 D7

D10

D5

D8

17

D26 D24 D3

D6

57

D4

Canada, USA and International arrivals and departures T1 RETAIL INDEX

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37

38 39 40 41 42

CAFÉS & SNACKS

A&W Booster Juice Caffè di Calabria Camden Food Co. Cibo Express Gourmet Markets Extreme Pita Farmers Market The Great Canadian Bagel The Marketplace Purblendz Starbucks Starbucks Starbucks Thai Express Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Express Tim Hortons Upper Crust

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

Burberry Bvlgari Coach Gucci Longchamp Longines Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling Metalsmiths Sterling Michael Kors Montblanc Omega Rado Salvatore Ferragamo Swarovski Tissot Tumi Victoria’s Secret

HEALTH & BEAUTY

:10 Minute Manicure :10 Minute Manicure The Body Shop MAC Cosmetics MAC Cosmetics by Nuance

58 AWAY SPRING 2017

Nearest Gate

D37 F57 E/F70 D33 F61 D45 D4 F89 D45 D45 D45 F60 E75 D45 D51 F66 D26 E80 F57 E75 E76 E75 E76 E75 E76 D40 D/F51 F62 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E76 E75 F57 D37 D37 D36 F64

43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54

55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71

72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87

NEWS & BOOKS

Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay

RESTAURANTS & BARS

Apropos Bahn Shop Bar 120: Cuisine Transformed Bento Sushi Boccone Trattoria Built Custom Burgers Fetta The Hearth Heirloom Bakery Café Lee Kitchen Marathi Mill St. Brewery La Place Red Rocket Twist by Roger Mooking Vinifera Wahlburgers

RETAIL SERVICES

L1 Level 1

Nearest Gate

D/F51 D22 D42 F83 D/F57 E77 F61 F66 D35 D4 E70 E74

F62,63 E74 D20 D22 D39 E74 E73 F60 E75 E73 E78 D20 E74 D/F51 D36 E76 F67

D31 CIBC Banking Centre F61 CIBC Banking Centre D33 CIBC ATM F66 CIBC ATM E79 CIBC ATM E72 CIBC ATM E81 Plaza Premium Lounge D20 Plaza Premium Lounge F82 Plaza Premium Lounge International Currency Exchange E76 International Currency Exchange F60 International Currency Exchange D31 D33 Walter’s Shoeshine F65 Walter’s Shoeshine D20 Walter’s Shoeshine F57 Walter’s Shoeshine

D20

100

7

52

TERMINAL 1

44

D22

D1

D31

101

D33

4

D35

D39

40

88 39 41

1

59

93

94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108

D38

45

6, 9-11, 14

D44

92 93

69 94-95

26

D40 D41 D42 D43

88 89 90 91

74

51

D37

84

SPECIALTY STORES

Davids Tea The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Liquor Store

by Nuance Duty Free Wine by Nuance Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post iStore Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory Rocky Mtn. Chocolate Factory The Scoreboard The Source The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine Sweet Maple Market TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox

D45

Nearest Gate

D35 E76 F57 F61

F62 D38 D36 D36 F63 D31 F62 E74 D20 D31 F64 E74 F67 F66 E71 E80 E77

D36

PARKING

L2 Level 2 L1 Level 1 58 66

86

15

97 72 83

PUBLIC AREA

79

46

43

8

TO GATES F84–99

68

47 00

D51 F51

D53 F53

D32 F32

D55 F55

60

D57 F57

38

D34 F34 F36

80 19

90

12

F60 F62

92, 96 98 55

55

28 85

ATMs

D Canada E International F USA

82

5

F65

42

SERVICES

Bathroom Nursing Station Info Escalator Elevator Airline Service Lounge Payphone Bus Bay Government Services Connection Centre Play Area

F64a/b 102

75

Over 40 ATMs are available throughout the airport

71

50

16

F67

Types of ATMs available include: CIBC, International Currency Exchange, Plus, Cirrus

F66a/b 104

105

E69 F69

E 71 F 71

E 72 F 72

GATES

62 91

73

F61

E70 F70

F82

87

49

F63

53 77

106 64

61

E 73 F 73

3

99

F84–99

F83

2

E 68 F68

13 103 56, 60, 20, 22, 21, 23, 25, 67 24, 37 29-36 54 70 63

E80 F80

18

107

81

89

E81 F81

76 78 65

48

E 79 F 79

E 78 F 78

108

E 77

E 74 E 75

E 76

SPRING 2017 AWAY 59

wa y f i n d e r 12

57

7

29

10

L2 Level 2

B5

14

64

L1 Level 1

75

1

B4

70

41

B3 B1a

B2c B2a

8

B1b B1c

15

B1d

L1 Level 1

A13 A14

TERMINAL 3

33 74

A15

4

Canada, USA and International arrivals and departures A16

T3 RETAIL INDEX

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

CAFÉS & SNACKS

Booster Juice Booster Juice Freshii Starbucks Starbucks Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Tim Hortons

Nearest Gate

B3 B41 A/B19 A14 B39 B22 B3 B1a B26/B27

FASHION & ACCESSORIES B3 10 Metalsmiths Sterling B40 11 Metalsmiths Sterling

12 13

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

HEALTH & BEAUTY

Be Relax Be Relax

NEWS & BOOKS

Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Relay Skyhealth Pharmacy Vending Machine

B5 C36 B4 B1a A11 B22 B26 B26/B27 B27 C33 B37

RESTAURANTS & BARS C36 23 Acer B26/B27 24 Beerhive A10 25 Bento Sushi 60 AWAY SPRING 2017

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53

Caplansky’s Deli The Cork & Well Corso Tap & Pour Fionn MacCool’s Heirloom Bakery Café Ice Bar Nobel Burger Bar Paramount Fine Foods Shanghai 360 Smashburger Smokes Burritorie Urban Crave Vinifera RETAIL SERVICES

CIBC Banking Centre CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM CIBC ATM Plaza Premium Lounge Plaza Premium Lounge International Currency Exchange International Currency Exchange International Currency Exchange International Currency Exchange Walter’s Shoeshine Walter’s Shoeshine

Nearest Gate

B40 A19 B29 B3 B24 C31 C35 A13 C35 B26/B27 B26/B27 B26/B27 A12 C32 B27 B1 B24 A10 B28 B27 B24 C32 B38 C33 A10 B26/B27 A10 B22

A17

B17 A18 B18

54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75

SPECIALTY STORES

Bally Bvlgari Davids Tea Discover Canada Discover Canada The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance The Duty Free Store by Nuance iStore Lolë Masters of Time The Source Vending Machine The Source Vending Machine The Source TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox TravelersBox

Nearest Gate

C30 C30 B27 B4 B26/B27 B26/B27 B26/B27 B26/B27 C30 A10 B4 B26/B27 B26/B27 C30 B28 C30 B3 C30 B40 A11 A14 B4

27

3

A7

A6

A8

PARKING

A9 25

A10

43

63

50

A11

PUBLIC AREA

52,53

A12

73 16

46

17

42 30

6 38

B24 39

B 22

65

18

B25

58

9

66

19

A20 B20

37

24

A19 B19

35 GATES

2

B 41 72

B 28

44 68

B 40

26 5

B 29 B 39

28

48 22

67

55 71

ATMs

54

69 62

31

Over 40 ATMs are available throughout the airport

47

34 21

C32

B 38 B37

C30 C31

39

13

C36

32 49 23

C33

C34

60

61

56 11

20

SERVICES

Types of ATMs available include: CIBC, International Currency Exchange, Plus, Cirrus

36

B 27 40,45

A USA B Canada C International

Bathroom Nursing Station Info Escalator Elevator Airline Service Lounge Payphone Bus Bay Government Services Connection Centre Play Area

59

51

B26

C35

jet age

GONE wITH THE wIND By the time this picture was taken for a Toronto Star piece on airport meteorology, weather balloons were floating into obsolescence. Or so everyone assumed. The technology was straightforward: Balloons went into the air carrying an electronic device called a radiosonde, which sent back readings on the temperature, wind speed, humidity and air pressure. But by the 1980s, the aviation industry was looking elsewhere—to newer satellite and radar networks and, eventually, to automated airport weather stations, cost-effective computerized systems that send fresh weather stats to staff and pilots. Still, nothing got rid of the big balloon. Largely because of its reliability, the century-old technology is still in use. NASA even dispatches high-altitude balloons for various experiments in “near space”—and not just to test the weather.

from the archives

1986

62 away Spring 2017

PHOTOGRAPH: ReG innell/GeTTy imAGes

A short history of airport weather forecasting

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