The Skirmish Line Summer 2021 Edition

THE MAGAZINE OF THE NORTH-SOUTH SKIRMISH ASSOCIATION, INC.

Summer 2021 Volume 66 ~ Issue 2 The official publicaion of the North-South Skirmish Association.

In this issue Gunsmithing tips, history and an intro to costume making.

HISTORY. COMPETITION. CAMARADERIE.

The N-SSA promotes the competitive shooting of Civil War firearms and artillery while encouraging the preservation of battlefields, artifacts, clothing and education of the period.

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The Skirmish LineTMis the quarterly publication of The North-South Skirmish Association, Inc.

Non-member annual subscriptions are available for $24 per year (U.S. Funds) Editor & Publisher Editor, Eddie Davenport ~ skirmishline@n-ssa.net National Photography Officer ~ Ericka Hoffman Visit our website at: www.n-ssa.org The N-SSA Corporate Seal and the magazine title, The Skirmish LineTM, are registered trademarks of the North-South Skirmish Association, Inc. Reproduction in any form or manner without the expressed written consent of the N-SSA Board of Directors is strictly prohibited. All pages are copyrighted by the North-South Skirmish Association, Inc. and The Skirmish LineTM magazine.

Text and images in this publication are the property of the original owners (authors). Text and images may not be published separately, in hard copy or electronically, without the expressed written permission of their owner(s). The authors and advertisers are responsible to secure the proper permissions and right to publish articles, photos, and illustrations not created by them. The North-South Skirmish Association, Inc., The Skirmish LineTM, and its staff are not responsible for copyright infringement. Please contact the Editor for questions relating to any matter, including but not limited to permission to copy materials herein.

Disclaimer: The North-South Skirmish Association does not guarantee, warrant, or endorse any product or service advertised in this publication. The publisher also does not guarantee the safety or effectiveness of any product or service illustrated, mentioned, offered, or advertised herein.

The publisher does not assume responsibility as to whether or not products or services advertised in this publication comply with all state or local laws which may be applicable in regard to the purchase or usage of such products or services.

Warning: The author(s), The Skirmish LineTM and its staff, and the North-South Skirmish Association, Inc. cannot accept any responsibility for accidents or differing results obtained using techniques, products, and combinations thereof that will make results vary. Firearms should be checked before firing and periodically thereafter by a competent gunsmith and all manufacturer’s instructions and warnings must be followed.

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On The Cover The future of the N-SSA

Change of Address Requests Please send all address changes to: Judy Stoneburner N-SSA Executive Secretary PO Box 218 | Crozet, VA 22932-0218 If your household receives multiple copies that you’d prefer not to receive, please email execsecretary@n-ssa.net.

You must include your Zip+4 to receive The Skirmish Line

Stories & Features The Firing Line.......................................................................5 New Recruit Welcome...........................................................6 N-SSA Past National Commanders…………....................6 Taps..........................................................................................7 N-SSA Contact Information.................................................9 Blast From The Past.............................................................11 National Commander Message……….......................…..13 National Adjutant Message…………...................………14 Crossword Puzzle……………………..................………15 The Chuck Wagon................................................................17 Building My First Musket……………………….......…..18 Who Was Dr. Edward Maynard…………....................…22 SCV Message…………………………………….............23 Charatible Giving Committee………...................………25 Book Review……………………...................……………27 Suggestions For Casting Bullets……………............……29 One Man Army………………...........................................37 144th National Schedule…………………...............……38 An Introduction to Your Small Arms Committee…..…41 Guess What I made a Straw Bonnet……….....................44 Headstone Dedication………………................................50 Sponsored Ads Goex Black Powder.................................Inside Front Cover Walk The Talk America.........................................................5 Patrick Kaboskey.....................................................................6 Larry J. Fleese..........................................................................6 Doc’s Place………………………………………………...7 Schutzen Black Powder..........................................................8 Back Creek Gun Shop.........................................................11 Single Shot Exchange...........................................................24 Skirmish Line Advertisment Specs....................................26 Dixie Gun Works..................................................................28 Memorial Park Engraved Brick Form…...........................43 Davide Pedersoli Firearms..................................Back Cover Thank you to all of our Sponsors.

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Note From the Editor

Send in any photos or articles that you feel may be of interest to other N-SSA members. When sending photos, please include captions and the names of those pictured. Don’t forget to credit yourself as the writer.

Submit all articles in text format (ex. Word, not a pdf).

All photos must be at least 300 dpi (credit the photographer).

Submit via e-mail to nssaeditor@gmail.com.

You will receive a return email confirming receipt.

Upcoming deadlines to submit FALL ISSUE: November 1, 2021

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The Firing Line Do you smell that glorious smell in the air? Skirmishing has returned with a bang (pun intended). Once again you can wake up in the morning drink your coffee (or in my case tea) and smell that sweet smell of black powder in the air. This past year has been challenging in so many ways. We lost so much during this past year and with the return to skirmishing we can finally start to get some of that back. Skirmishing has always been special to me. While I enjoy all forms of shooting there is something special about skirmishing those other forms of shooting just don’t fulfil. The N-SSA is starting to return to normal. We have shoots going on and most importantly we have the Nationals returning.

First, I wanted to talk to everyone about some of the changes going on at the Skirmish Line. The board has voted with my full support to standardize what comes out in the issues. Secondly, we are trying our best to make the Skirmish Line more of the whole organization’s magazine. So, with that we will only be publishing skirmish reports from the nationals. Finally, in an effort try and garner more financial revenue for the organization we are changing up one of our ad spots and pricing. We are now going to be offering text based classified ads at $0.60 cents per word extra words in bold are $3.00 and boarders around ads are $8.00. I know that we have the bulletin boards but not everyone checks them, and this is a guaranteed way for the whole organization to see your ad.

I personally wanted to thank everyone who submitted articles for this issue. If you want to send in an article, send it to me at nssaeditor@gmail.com. I will work with you on every aspect if you need it and we will make sure it gets to print. Your effort is noticed and I appreciate it.

You may have noticed that beside my article in last issue and this one is an ad for Walk the Talk America.

Its no accident that this ad ended up beside my article. This is an organization that not only do I believe in, but I am actively involved in as a trainer. Some of you know this but others do not, I am a therapist by trade. I have been open in my profession that shooting is self-care and is very healthy for those that wish to partake in shooting sports. The same disciplines that I teach my clients I employ myself every time I squeeze that trigger. Proper mental discipline is key to hitting that 10X and in life. Walk the Talk America is here for gun owners, if you need a helping hand reach out. We can put you in contact with people who are as pro-gun as I am.

Until next time, Keep your powder dry and your shots X’s.

Eddie Davenport Dismal Swamp Rangers 11336V Skirmish Line Editor.

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Welcome to all New Recruits March - July 2021

North-South Skirmish Association National Commanders

*John Gilmer

1956-1958

*James Waters

1959-1962

*Albert Hardin

1963-1964

*Carl Jensen

1965-1970

Richard Corrigan

1971-1974

Midwest Region 6

*Frank Schoch

1975-1976

New England Region

John Sharrett

1977-1982

*James McAleer

1983-1984

John Robey

1985-1988

Tidewater Region 0

*Royal Inge

1989-1992

Western Region 1

Earl Coates

1993-1996

Gary Crawford

1997-2000

Earl Coates

2001-2004

Charles Smithgall

2005-2008

Linwood McMahon

2009-2012

Phillip Spaugy

2013-2016

Allegheny Region 2 Carolina Region 1 Central Virginia Region

2

Chesapeake Region 3 Deep South Region

5

Mid-Atlantic Region 2

2

Northeast Region 1 Northwest Region 3 Potomac Region 8

David Booz

2017-2020

Charles Kindle, Jr. 2021 -

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TAPS March - July 2021 Richard E. Strickland

St. Mary’s Light Infantry

Richard W. Gondek

19th Michigan Infantry

Sam Hanna

19th Michigan Infantry

William J. Machinsky

118th Pennsylvania Vol. Inf.

George Ashleigh Moody, III Dismal Swamp Rangers

Alan J. Potier

9th Indiana Infantry

Ronald T. Rau

110th Ohio Volunteer Infantry

Robert. E. Schindler, Sr. 7th West Virginia Vol. Inf. Phil Siess

69th New York Volunteers

Kirk W. Stanley

Cockade Rifles

George Simacourbe

1st Florida Cavalry & Washington Blue Rifles

Ronald E. Strickland

St. Mary’s Lt. Infantry

La Retta F. Wager

Co G. 23rd North Carolina State Troops

Brady Wright

Washington Grays

Richard “Dick” Dodd

2nd Virginia Infinitary

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Best Quality Quality for for Traditional Traditional Rifles Rifles Best Schuetzen Black Black Powder Powder Schuetzen and 4-Wing 4-Wing Musket Musket Caps Caps and

Schuetzen Black Powder

Schuetzen Powder Energetics, Inc. 866-809-9704 www.schuetzenpowder.com

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North-South Skirmish Association National/Regional/Staff/Committee Contact information

National Officers National Commander

Charles Kindle Jr. chuckkindle1@gmail.com

National Deputy Commander

Robert Hannula

bobbyhannula@juno.com

Past National Commander

David Booz

dtbooz@yahoo.com

National Adjutant Richard Clements

nssa_national_adjutant@aol.com

Inspector General Michael Santarelli

1stpacavalry@gmail.com

Executive Secretary

Judy Stoneburner

execsecretary@n-ssa.net

National Paymaster

Bette Shepherd

paymaster@n-ssa.net

Allegheny Commander

David Cole

cole84_89@verizon.net

AL-IG:

Craig Shedd

ccsmew@yahoo.com

Carolina Commander

Rex Cockerham

racockerham@hotmail.com

CR-IG

Dave Jackson

gaffergrip65@yahoo.com

Regional Commanders & IG’s

Central Virginia Commander Ralph Shaw

ltnup@embarqmail.com

Michael Boley

mikebol11@comcast.net

Chesapeake Commander

Edwin Thompson

mdrebel@live.com

Michael Linton

mlinton1966@yahoo.com

Deep South Commander

Charles Bondurant

smokinpole@aol.com

Eddye Lawley

eddyelawley@gmail.com

Mid-Atlantic Commander

Roger Gray

ragray1961@gmail.com

Michael Santarelli

1stpacavalry@gmail.com

Midwest Commander

Eric Schuessler

eschues@aol.com

Ian Egbert

ian45662@yahoo.com

Louis Ruggiero

tammany42@aol.com

Richard Intravia

quahog@sbcglobal.net

Robert Kelley

rkel870@hotmail.com

Benjamin Nevlezer

bnevlezer@yahoo.com

Edward Walters

ewalt1855@gmail.com

James Weber

shooter575@gmail.com

CV-IG: CH-IG DS-IG MA-IG MW -IG:

New England Commander

Northeast Commander

EN- IG

Northwest Commander

NW-IG

NW-IG

Potomac Commander

Davy Crockett, Jr.

davyc@stny.rr.com

Mark Elton

mark.alaska@verizon.net

E.R. Mike Davenport

Eddie_Davenport@advantushp.com

TW –IG

Michael Stoneburner

bulletmaker.stoney@gmail.com

Western Commander

John Mark

jmark48@hotmail.com

John Thatcher

jt450@aol.com

Robert West

sixpounder1841@yahoo.com

Tidewater Commander

PT-IG

WR-IG

Staff Officers & Committee Chairs Artillery Staff Officer

Awards Committee Chair Nancy Crockett

nancyc@stny.rr.com

Bivouac Staff Officer

Robert Gorsky

gorsbob@aol.com

Charitable Giving Committee Chair

Wayne Jordan

wvjordan@aol.com

Community Relations Committee Chair

Gary Crawford

usimlt@hughes.net

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Corporate Relations Staff Officer

Allen Minneman

allenm@mtmcase-gard.com

Costume Committee Chair

Sharleen West

sharleenleighwest@gmail.com

Ft. Shenandoah Emergency Manager

Chester Lauck

lauckc@yahoo.com

Historical Center Staff Officer

Gary Crawford

usimlt@hughes.net

History Committee Chair

John Zebelean, III

rebshooter@aol.com

Insurance Staff Officer

Jason Rexrode

nssaprogramchair@gmail.com

International Muzzleloading Committee

Errol McLean

captain1@slic.com

IT Manager Linwood McMahon

linwood.mcmahon@verizon.net

Judge Advocate/Solicitor

Lars Anderson

lars.anderson@ofplaw.com

Logistics Staff Officer

Todd Hess

thess6685@yahoo.com

Long Range Planning Committee Chair

Robert Hannula

bobbyhannula@juno.com

Long Range Planning Committee Co-Chair Edwin Thompson

mdrebel@live.com

Marketing Committee Chair

Chris De Francisci

webmaster@washingtonbluerifles.com

Medical Liason Staff Officer

John Venskoske, Sr.

bcgsi@hughes.net

National Photography Staff Officer

Ericka Hoffmann

ehkayak@gmail.com

National Safety Staff Officer

Douglas Walter

dwalter47@comcast.net

NRA Liason Staff Officer

Craig Stanley

cws11@ptd.net

Ordnance Staff Officer

John Venskoske, Sr

bcgsi@hughes.net

Personnel Review Committee Chair

Carlton Layne

cpllayne@aol.com

Program Staff Officer

Lynn Warner

lwarnerl15@gmail.com

Program Staff Officer

Jason Rexrode

nssaprogramchair@gmail.com

Property Management Staff Officer

Jeffrey Hall

jchall23.jh@gmail.com

Property Manager

Timothy Scanlan

nssapropertymgr@aol.com

Protocol Staff Officer

Brandon Bowser

no email

Provost Marshall Robert Klutas

stonycrick61@gmail.com

Public Information Staff Officer

Bruce Miller

spartan70@sbcglobal.net

Range Staff Officer

Scott Harris

cwshooter575@gmail.com

Recruiting Staff Officer

Robert Harrison

48thva@gmail.com

Registration Staff Officer

John Gaskill

jlg14tenn@aol.com

Revolver Range Staff Officer

Chris De Francisci

webmaster@washingtonbluerifles.com

Rules Staff Officer

Sharon Myers

nssarulesoffice@gmail.com

Sanitation Staff Officer

Charles Wager

cwager@ec.rr.com

Signal Staff Officer

Robert Hannula

bobbyhannula@juno.com

Skirmish Line Editor

Eddie Davenport

nssaeditor@gmail.com

Small Arms Committee Staff Officer

John Holland, Jr.

jh44ny@verizon.net

Statistics Staff Officer

Jeffrey Knauss

j.knauss@verizon.net

Sutler Staff Officer

Paul Stoneburner

madforestry6@gmail.com

Uniform Committee Chair

Mark Latham

balchiss@hotmail.com

Unit Membership Committee Chair

Kenneth Stiles

nssa.org.membership@gmail.com

Veteran’s Committee Chair

George Schell

gschell516@cs.com

Youth Program Coordinator

Frederick Schell

410-687-4173

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Blast From the Past Sharpshooter ‘Kildee’ - Related

by Himself

(Following is the second of a two-part article begun in the Skirmish Line for Spring 2021.

Subtitled, “Thrilling reminiscent of John West, Alias ‘Kildee’,” it first appeared in Muzzle Blast for November 1946 republished in the Skirmish Line in 1974 now brought back to you. – E.D.) A Whiteworth Sharpshooter in Action

We also knew that ours was the most hazardous undertaking of the entire Confederate Army and before we had finished and lost in our cause, we went through scenes that tried men’s souls. All of us soon became indifferent to danger and inured to hardships and privations. Ours was the job of accepting any assignment to kill in any situation where the southern forces found themselves cornered and in need of our type of marksmanship. To kill men

“I have killed men from ten paces to a mile away” became commonplace. To strike out in front of our lines to a selected position and pick off enemy leaders was our duty. We would go out in the early dawn, be in our stations and ready to perform our task when the light of day broke; Then creep back to receive another assignment in some other section of the battle lines. I have killed men from ten paces distance to a mile away. I had learned to use my Whitworth rifle for the job for which it was built, and I felt that my cause was right. I had no idea how many men I have killed but a sharpshooter knows his job, and this was mine.

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Our group was often employed separately at different points of battle and sometimes collectively. Sometimes we would simply go scouting and use our rifles whenever we found a target, we felt would weaken the Northern Forces and their attempts to attack our positions. We were also used most effectively to pick off the enemy officers whom we could see moving among their men and directing battle activities. Next to picking off officers, our most effective work was silencing the batteries of the enemy by picking off their gunners and aimers and working havoc by a few well-placed shots which took toll of the personnel firing the guns.

In protecting our lines form the enemy sharpshooters, we would spend hours locating the positions of Union marksmen and when we located them, because of the long range of our Whitworths and the accuracy of our arm, we would usually bring an end to them, and we could see them drop from the trees in one or two shots.

On the day that General Banks and General Shields of the Union Army Fell, I was the only sharpshooter in our lines and feel certain that my Whitworth accounted for the deaths of these two Union generals.

The forces which these generals were commanding were 1400 and 1500 yards away and my rifle was the only gun which could reach them. My assignment for this day was

“He would rather have these thirteen sharpshooters than any regiment in the army”

to pick off only officers, whom I could identify by their dress.

To bring havoc among the artillerymen was one of our most effective ways of combat because an artilleryman can stand anything better than to have someone sharp shooting at him, and these artillerymen would turn their guns upon a sharpshooter as quickly as they would upon a battery. You see, we could pick off their gunners so easily. On one assignment a comrade and myself completely silenced a battery of six guns in less than two hours. We did it by picking off the gunners one by one and finally there were not enough Yankee gunners left to man the positions. When the battery had been silenced, our forces stormed and captured it and hauled the enemy guns to our side.

That these thirteen Whitworth rifles proved their worth to the cause of the South was shown by their toll of Union officers and men. Once I heard General Lee say, as he reviewed our little band, that he would rather have these thirteen sharpshooters than any regiment in the army.

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From the

National Commander

By the time you read this we will have had several skirmishes at the Fort, as well as other regional skirmishes throughout the organization.

At the August Board meeting several topics were discussed, and it was especially nice to once again be able to see everyone in person.

All the minutes from the Board meeting will be available once they have been approved and will be published in the Skirmish Line.

After the conclusion of the meeting, the attendees were invited to tour the Historic Center at the Fort. The progress that has been made at the Center has been truly amazing. The regional Commanders were asked to sort through the stuff for the displays and remove the items they no longer wanted in their displays, so these unwanted items could either be stored or discarded.

Planning for the Fall Nationals is well underway, and you should have already received and returned your registration forms. Also, I would like to ask that during Nationals you respect the request and abide the wish of any Sutler who asks that you wear a facemask while inside their store. They are doing us a service just by being there, and don’t need any unnecessary difficulties.

I am looking forward to seeing everybody this fall, and it will be nice to see everybody once again enjoying all the different aspects of the sport we love so much at our national range.

Stay safe, and be well, Chuck Kindle National Commander

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From the Office of

National Adjutant The Time is Now! Greetings Fellow Skirmishers: For most of us, the last year seemed like an eternity. More than likely, many of us were, in some manner or another, impacted by the effects of the pandemic. Various states instituted shutdown orders to business operations, there was the introduction of on-line classroom education, limitations were placed on group gatherings, as well as mandated travel restrictions. Thankfully the N-SSA successfully navigated through those difficult times. Hopefully we have seen the worst of the pandemic as many aspects of daily life appear to be returning to normal.

Commendably, the membership did not falter. Many units and individuals answered the call by making financial donations to help the Association fulfill its financial obligations and fund various projects. Our membership numbers are also very encouraging!

Now is a great time for each of us to shake off any rust we may accumulated due to limited time on the range and get back out there. Perhaps you might consider contributing some of your time to teach and train new members in safe firearm operations. If that’s not something you’re able to do, maybe you have other talents that could be useful to the Association or your respective Region through recruitment and/or marketing efforts. You could easily drop off some recruitment brochures at your local gun stores. Volunteer to help! Your efforts will make a difference.

I’m looking forward to seeing many of you at the Fort once again to renew old friendships and establish new ones! As we enter the fall season, I encourage everyone to do their very best to be safe and remain of vigilant of collective need to look out for each other. We know the Pandemic will continue to present new strains and challenges may lie ahead. Discuss your medical circumstances & particular needs with your physician(s) and, as always, adhere to good health practices so that we can continue to enjoy our shared interests.

It’s time to Load and Come to the Ready!

Respectfully,

Rick Clements

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Across 4. a large piece of land usually in a tropical or semitropical area where one crop is specifically planted for widespread commercial sale and usually tended by resident laborers.

6. Landmark decision by the U.S. Supreme Court in which the Court held that African Americans, whether enslaved or free you have no rights 12. A person who supervises others, especially workers.

13. A Northerner who moved to the South after the American Civil War, during the Reconstruction era (1865–1877).

15. the action of annexing something, especially territory.

17. An American politician who was a U.S. Representative and Senator from Mississippi, the 23rd U.S. Secretary of War, and the President of the Confederate States of America during the American Civil War. 18. The state of being united or joined.

19. Fought from 1861 to 1865 to determine the survival of the Union or independence for the Confederacy.

20. A legal or economic system in which principles of property law are applied to humans allowing them to be classified as property, to be owned, bought and sold accordingly, and they cannot withdraw unilaterally from the arrangement.

22. The fact or process of being set free from legal, social, or political restrictions; liberation.

24. Name for a southern soldier 25. A historic town in Jefferson County, West Virginia, United States.

26. The 16th President of the United States, serving from March 1861 until his assassination in April 1865 27. A public or official announcement, especially one dealing with a matter of great importance.

28. Murder (an important person) in a surprise attack for political or religious reasons.

Down 1.

2.

3.

5.

State that doesn’t allow slavery. a sea fort in Charleston, South Carolina, notable for two battles of the American Civil War the production of goods or services within an economy.

Withdraw formally from membership in a federal union, an alliance, or a political or religious organization.

7. A person who favors the abolition of a practice or institution, especially capital punishment or (formerly) slavery.

8. An effort by Congress to defuse the sectional and political rivalries triggered by the request of Missouri late in 1819 for admission as a state in which slavery would be permitted.

9. An act or means of sealing off a place to prevent goods or people from entering or leaving 10. A former slave who has been released from slavery, usually by legal means.

11. Passed by the United States Congress on September 18, 1850, as part of the Compromise of 1850 between Southern slave-holding interests and Northern Free-Soilers.

14. A plant that made up the backbone of the southern crops.

16. An American abolitionist who believed armed insurrection was the only way to overthrow the institution of slavery in the United States.

21. Southern whites who supported Reconstruction and the Republican Party, after the American Civil War. 23. A person who rises in opposition or armed resistance against an established government or ruler 15 Skirmish Line Summer 2021

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CIvil War Crossword By Eddie Davenport 1

2

3

4 5 6

7

9

8 10

11

13

12

14

15

16

17

18 19

20

21

22 23 24

25

26 27 28 EclipseCrossword.com

Editor’s note Hope you enjoy this feature. I’m going to try and have a crossword every issue. If anyone in the organization is good at making puzzles please reach out.

Answer key on page 24

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48th Va Infantry Hillbilly Beef and Guinness Stew

By Papa Rob Ingredients for 8 large servings in a 16-20 qt dutch oven: 2 cans of Guinness Irish Stout 8 strips bacon, sliced into small pieces 4 lb. beef chuck, cut in 1.5-2-inch pieces (tossed with black pepper and at least 2 tsp salt) 4 onions, chopped 1/2 tsp salt 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 can (14.0-oz) Guinness beer, or other dark beer 1/2 cup tomato paste 3-4 Tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce 4 sprigs of fresh thyme (or 2-3 teaspoon of dried thyme) 5 carrots, cut in 1-inch pieces 5 ribs celery, cut in 1-inch pieces 5 cups chicken or beef stock, (as needed) 3 tsp sugar salt and coarse ground black pepper (to taste) Directions: 1. tart bacon in cold dutch oven (this is to render the fat for browning the beef cubes) once rendered remove excess bacon fat (leave about 4 tablespoons).

2. Brown beef cubes in stages until the dutch oven develops a good fond. Remove beef to large bowl.

3. Add the chopped onions to the Dutch and sauté until translucent.

4. Add chopped garlic and only let sauté for 1-2 minutes then add tomato paste and stir it into the onions and garlic to caramelize the tomato paste to sweeten.

5. Add 1 can of Guinness to deglaze the bottom of the Dutch scraping it to bring the fond up (fond = concentrated flavor) 6. Add Worcestershire Sauce 7. Add 2nd can of Guinness and bring to a boil.

8. Add the sugar and stir until it is thoroughly mixed in.

9. Add the beef cubes and all accumulated juices to the Dutch oven.

10. Add carrots and celery.

11. Cover with Stock.

Note: DO NOT TASTE IT AT THIS STAGE!!...it won’t be good until it has cooked for quite a while.

- Simmer stew on low heat, covered, for about 2.5 hours, or until fork tender - Uncover, and reduce, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens to your liking - Taste and adjust seasoning!

Suggested items to serve with: over 4-8 cups dense mashed potatoes, not whipped, Good dense soup bread (Trencher), Rice or pasta.

Do you have a favorite recipe? Send it to me at nssaeditor@gmail.com 17 Skirmish Line Summer 2021

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Building My First Musket

by Craig Goheen

I decided (partially because of COVID) that it was time for me to build a musket. I’m a youngster in the N-SSA. A friend had a Dunlap stock that he had held onto for a while, and he was willing to part with it if I wanted to build an 1842 Springfield Smoothbore.

I’ve never done this before. I do reload, and I did trigger work on 1911’s; this didn’t seem like a giant leap. I was wrong.

Planning the Rifle I have a stock, what do I need next? A barrel? I browsed the web and talked to teammates and they said I should order a Whitacre barrel - in white/bright? As a gun owner, and a novice builder I thought all gun barrels were blue or stainless. I did not know what white/bright meant. I found out white is how many folks describe barrels that aren’t blued. Not knowing whether or not I needed to learn how to blue and since I’ve already bought a stock, I decided it was time to do some actual research. There is a lot of information on 1842 Springfields. It is hard to imagine how many variations exist. I could not find a single document or source to identify all the specifics I needed to learn. So where to next? N-SSA SAC (Small Arms Committee). I asked, and quickly received, an application for a SAC card which is really a build sheet. A build sheet tells me what parts I must have on the 1842 Springfield and where it should be on the Springfield. For example: To be compliant with the N-SSA rules, the rifle stock length must be 55 inches, plus or minus ½”. The SAC rep, Mr. Holland, also sent instructions on how to measure the specified dimensions. It doesn’t identify every single component of the Springfield, just the major observable parts.

At this point I had a stock, an application for a SAC card, and a barrel. Looking online I was able to find several helpful resources but there were numerous sites that were not helpful. I’m undecided about a majority of YouTube videos because they were too general. Most of the diagrams that exist belong to companies that wish to sell you parts so they are not as detailed as a builder needs them to be. With the various diagrams I built a spreadsheet with all the parts I would need and the various companies that have the parts, their part number, and the costs including taxes and shipping.

In hindsight, the spreadsheet was not the smartest of moves as I let costs drive my decisions. My first shipments of

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parts (suppliers will not be divulged) were garbage. My subsequent research showed that many inexpensive parts are made In SW Asia. The better parts are made/supplied from Europe. The inexpensive “new” parts I received were lacking quality control. Parts were missing holes, some were rusted, most weren’t finished (required lots of work to polish) and in some cases they were brittle. The new parts I ended up buying were barrel bands, sling swivels, band springs, ramrod, ramrod spoon, trigger, trigger guard, trigger plate, butt plate and various screws and pins.

The original parts I purchased were the lock plate, lock components, and hammer. I’ve been told that original parts are the best, but I was not sure. I do know that I wanted an original lock plate (personal preference) and now I am convinced that original parts are better made.

Preparing The Parts The first step in the build was to make sure all the parts were ready to be fitted to the stock.

The process of making the parts usable involved filing with a mill file, emery paper of various grits and polishing wheel.

Each step required 30 or more minutes at each stage of smoothing. I could have gone directly to a buffing wheel with jeweler’s rouge, but then the parts would not have been smooth/flat but might be shiny. I started with a mill file, then 400 grit emery paper and worked my way up to 3000 grit. I also used a Dremel, with a polishing compound. I learned there are at least 4 different grades of compound and different buffing wheels. As I mentioned, this is a long Skirmish Line Summer 2021 18

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process and takes many hours. In several instances, when I decided the parts were substandard, I ordered duplicate parts from a supplier that has European made parts. The parts are a significantly higher quality, they are finished/ polished well, and they are more expensive. As an example, here are pictures of a European end barrel band and a Southwest Asia end barrel band. I gave up on finishing the smaller band (bottom of the picture) when I started polishing and noticed all the imperfections, beginning with it being ¼” shorter and missing the hole for the band spring.

The Build I have not been able to find a book, paper, article, that tells me how to conduct or even start the build. I guessed and started fitting the barrel. This part, in and of itself, could be a real chicken and egg discussion. In retrospect, the barrel might NOT be the first component fit to the stock. But then I thought the lock plate should be first so I could figure out where the barrel should fit, specifically the nipple to the hammer. But then the barrel could be first so the lock plate assembly can be fitted. Of all the pieces that are being installed, the fit of the barrel and lock is the most observable and arguably the most important for proper function.

One of the considerations for fitting parts is how much wood you must work with. The stock, as I bought it, has been partially routed. The lock inlay, the tang, barrel, etc.

The inlay usually needs to be enlarged to fit the parts. The fitting of the lock, stock and barrel is a ballet. The inlay for the lock, i.e., extra wood, only allowed for moving the lock ⅛” in any direction. There is a little more flexibility for the barrel and tang.

After multiple orders, returns, non-returns (you bought it, you own it attitude), I ended up with a mixture of suppliers.

Some of the barrel bands from SW Asia I kept primarily because I had invested so much effort. As I mentioned, this is a long process and took many hours. From a friend I had received a single original 1842 Sling Swivel, I needed two. I bought another reproduction sling swivel and the differences between them is significant. The original swivel is 1.75” wide and the reproductions are 1.95” wide. The reproduction had obvious brazing and short of painting it, I didn’t know how I was going to get a matched set.

I still don’t have the answer on which should occur first.

I started with some barrel fitting. The major component fitting is a messy and difficult process for me. I started using “NON-DRYING Prussia Blue”. This is like blue ink that never dries. I would slather over the bottom of the barrel and then set the barrel in the stock. Then I’d remove the barrel and look for the dye which would indicate the high spots. Using a barrel bedding tool I’d shave the high spots down, recover the barrel with blue, set it in place and repeat the process.

I couldn’t find a comparable swivel, so I went to the N-SSA forum and started asking questions. There is a gentleman in Arizona who said he had similar sling swivels. He sent them to me for comparison. They were a good match, so a deal was struck.

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To continue from this point in the build, I bought a set of wood tools for carving. These included Iwasaki Wood files, Japanese wood carving tools and assorted chisels which needed lots of sharpening. I also bought a scalpel with 100 disposable blades. The scalpel has been very useful.

I started some lock fitting. In order to get a gross fit on the lock I had to remove the hammer, tumbler, and springs. If I left those parts on I would have had to work fitting all the parts as well as the lock plate. With the initial fit of the lock plate and barrel I came upon a new level of complexity, the stock, towards the end, isn’t straight. This meant I needed to fit the bands to hold the barrel in a correct relationship to the stock so the lock could achieve a final fit. Once I started fitting the barrel bands, I had to blue dye the barrel, put it in and try to fit the bands. Then I did some barrel in letting and stock trimming to get the barrel and bands to fit. It was during this process I learned there is a difference between a smoothbore ramrod and a rifle ramrod. I went through the dye, assemble, disassemble, shave/carve process many, many times. I ended up taking off too much of the stock’s forend.

To resolve this mistake, I went to the local hardwood store and got a scrap of walnut that I had to carve and sand so it matched the stock, then I glued it to the end of the stock and restarted the process.

I finally finished the fit of the barrel, bands and stock. I went back to the lock plate, finished fitting it, then I assembled the lock, and it would not fit. The process I followed for fitting all the lock parts was to put on a part, put blue dye on it, try the fit, find the contact point, carve and repeat. Once the first part fit, I added the next part, put blue dye on it, tried the fit, found the contact point, carve and repeat.

screws need to be parallel; the butt plate screws are large and need a correct size hole.

Once I completed the tang screw whole and mounted the lock and barrel, I found out the trigger plate didn’t fit.

More blue dye. I got the trigger plate to fit so I put the trigger plate, trigger, guard all together, and it didn’t fit. I disassembled it, put on one part, put on the blue dye and did the fit, carve, fit process over and over until all the parts were reassembled and everything fit.

Then I found out that even though all the parts fit, it doesn’t mean they operate correctly. The trigger did not have enough internal clearance to properly activate the sear. The trigger could not activate the sear until I figured out how much clearance I needed. I now had all the internal parts installed, the barrel, butt plate and bands. Next, I needed to install the band retention springs.

After the barrel and lock alignment the hardest carving/ alignment were the band springs. The band springs require a lot of detail carving and require holes that are not perpendicular to the barrel - nor are they parallel to the barrel cut. I went to the scrap pile and got a 2” x 2” piece of hardwood and practiced. I drilled a hole then set the spring down, outlined it, and then started carving. Even with that practice it didn’t turn out great, just good, and that is because the stock is a different shape than my practice wood.

Once again, I assembled the musket and decided to make sure the ramrod fit. The ramrod didn’t fit, it was too tight. Where could I find a 40” long drill bit to resolve the problem? I didn’t. I had a 48” x ⅛” steel rod, and I duct taped pieces of 400 grit sandpaper around the rod. Then I once again disassembled the musket and used the rod and paper to sand out the ramrod hole until it was large enough to allow the ramrod to fit. Then I reassembled the musket and checked the fit - it works well.

Finishing the Stock In order to continue with parts fitting I had to do drilling to establish the barrel tang screw which attaches to the trigger plate, so I now own a drill press. Even with all these tools I still managed to drill the wrong angle on the tang screw.

I ended up filling the first hole with epoxy and redrilling it. Not a lot of holes to drill (eight), but each one has particulars with regards to angles and size. The lock plate

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I have finished wood before and there are lots of options.

Some of the things I used in the past include tongue oil, linseed oil, stain and varnish. I plan to use this musket out in the Ft Shenandoah environment. That led me to choose a Briwax stain finish. It is a rub on, rub in, wipe off finish that weathers well. But first, I had to take the musket apart, remove the vise block that comes as part of the stock and Skirmish Line Summer 2021 20

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get out the sandpaper and start sanding. I ended up sanding with 600 grit. After using a soft cloth to apply the Briwax, I used fine steel wool to wipe it down, then another soft cloth to remove all the excess. Then I reassembled the musket.

Closing Thoughts Of all the things I’ve been taught, the very best information I received was never work more than 1.5 hours per day on the rifle at a time. The couple of times I violated this rule I screwed something up. Experience has showed me that after 90 minutes I started getting frustrated and would do dumb things like switch from 220 grit sandpaper to 60 grit, so there are some gaps and wavy parts that should not be there.

And what couldn’t I find? I have just kind of found out how the ramrod spoon is built/carved/cut into the stock.

Another Springfield I took apart has a bedded barrel, so the spoon isn’t totally visible. I’ve asked some folks about the ramrod spoon. They have recommended that I don’t install it, rather I should just put in the retaining pin, so it looks correct. I saw the bedded barrel on another Springfield. I now have questions about how to bed a barrel, maybe on a future build. I also still need to figure out how to change the sight blade, so it is brass, not chrome. I’m reluctant to cut it off and try to solder on a piece of brass. To do that I think I’d have to order a new end barrel band because my limited experience says I can’t get it right the first time. I’d use the cast barrel band I got, which is short and ugly, but I’m not sure it is the same material.

Will I do this again - Yes, because it was a great learning experience and I’m proud to say I built it.

I’m very happy with what I’ve accomplished, and next time I’ll do better. Hopefully I’ll be able to get up to the Fort soon and shoot it. Also, I still need a SAC card/approval. And this build process started a new process on figuring out the load for this musket. The barrel, a 69 caliber, was built to an internal diameter of .687 but a .685 won’t fit down the barrel easily. A new process for me, and a new learning experience that involves terms like ruffing, tumbling, lubes, sprue etc.

The next build will start with a bunch of questions and a much more detailed search for answers before I invest any dollars. For Example: Is there a historical source for the weapon that has lots of details? Is there more than one model? Who could supply parts? Are original parts available? Maybe I’ll look at an H&P. I’m retired. I joined the 49th Virginia Volunteer Infantry 4 years ago and have been enjoying the camaraderie and competition. I don’t have many answers but if you have questions or comments, I can be reached at goheen@juno.com.

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Who was dr. edward maynard?

by Chris De Francisci

Many of us shoot Maynard’s in individual and Carbine competition. The invention of Dr. Edward Maynard. But who was Maynard? What is the story behind this brilliant inventor?

Dr. Edward Maynard was a renowned dentist having made several contributions to the profession. In fact, he was offered the position of dentist to the Russian royal family of Emperor Nicholas I during his travels abroad. He introduced the use of gold foil for filling teeth and pioneered advances in dental surgery. He advocated for a Corps of Dental Surgeons to be included in the Army and Navy of the time to provide care for both the officers and rank and file.

For much of his professional life Dr. Maynard held a Chair position at Baltimore College of Dental Surgery. The first dental college in the world. Patients included several US Presidents, Cabinet members, Senators, members of the military, and foreign ministers. In 1878 the Virginia State Dental Association conferred upon him the title of “Prince of Dentists”.

Dr. Maynard lived in several different places, in Washington, DC, Cooperstown, NY, and Tarrytown, NY. His residences were quite well appointed and lavish for the time. In fact, the Tarrytown residence was originally called Ericstan Castle and was a beautiful place located on the east bank of the Hudson River. Upon the death of his wife, Ellen, Dr. Maynard sold his Cooperstown homes and moved to Washington, DC. In 1869, Dr. Maynard remarried to Nellie Long of Savannah Georgia. She survived her husband, Dr. Maynard passed away in 1891.

One constant in military warfare has always been the need to load and fire as quickly as possible.

The early arms which used flintlock or percussion locks took a while to load, prime, and fire. In 1845 Dr. Maynard invented, and patented, a system of priming which replaced the percussion cap. We know it as the Maynard Tape Primer Lock System.

It used a roll of waterproof paper tape contained in a compartment and was advanced using a spring system by cocking the hammer. The tape was in two pieces with a priming compound sandwiched between them and varnished. The design could be used in any firearm. Those of us who remember cap pistols using a roll of “caps” are familiar with the design and operation.

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Pictured Above Dr. Edaward Maynard

In 1845 both the Army and Navy paid Dr. Maynard for the right to use the priming device in small arms, for up to a total of 5,000 (4,000 for the Army and 1,000 for the Navy). He would be paid the sum of $0.25 for all arms equipped beyond that number. After the sale to the US government, Dr. Maynard thought he could sell his invention to other countries and traveled through Europe demonstrating his invention and seeking additional sales.

Traveling through Europe and Russia, sales, and patents, were made in Denmark, Sweden, Belgium, France, and Great Britain. In addition, he also practiced his dentistry to wide acclaim to heads of state in those countries. Britain later ordered several arms equipped with the tape primer mechanism for use in the Crimea.

Dr. Maynard also invented the first metallic cartridge and the first breech loading rifle for use in the Civil War. His tape primer system can be found on arms manufactured by Merrill, the Model 1855 Percussion Musket and the 1855 Percussion Pistol Carbine. The first Maynard Carbine, also called by us the “first model Maynard” was designed in 1853. And it used the new metallic cartridge he designed. Patents were awarded for the firearm and the cartridge.

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The Second Model was a simplified version of the original and still used the same metallic cartridge. There were also sporting models sold, which had interchangeable barrels in 35, 40, and 50 calibers along with a 64-caliber shotgun barrel. Maynard designed what I often refer to as the original Thompson Contender.

Like many other firearm inventors, Dr. Maynard also modified the Musket with a hinged breechblock to take his cartridge. But it never materialized as a commercial product. He also developed a bolt conversion utilizing the existing hammer. Again, it was never produced commercially.

After the Civil War, new patents were issued as he upgraded the Carbine to the 1873 Breech-Loader. Available now with an internally primed cartridge and sold with interchangeable rifle and shotgun barrels it was widely accepted and a commercial success. As the 1873 “pan head” cartridge was only produced by Maynard, he further upgraded the model to the 1882 version which used the more modern thinner rim cartridge such as we use today.

In 1895 the Massachusetts Arms Company (the producer of Maynard carbines and rifles) was purchased by the J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company who continued to sell rifles based on the Maynard action until 1930.

Many of these Steven’s rifles are found today, in various conditions.

Dr. Maynard’s last patent was again ahead of its time and forward thinking. Being an indicator for the number of cartridges remaining in a magazine fed arm. There is much more to the Maynard story. I have pulled the information for this article from the excellent book: Dr. Edward Maynard: “Letters from the Land of the Tsar 1845-1846”, by Rodney S. Hatch III. I encourage anyone interested in the history of Dr Edward Maynard to pick up a copy and read about this amazing inventor.

SCV & UDC Southern Social 144th National Skirmish Thursday Evening 5:00 PM Room below the museum

To meet all the members of the Sons of Confederate Veterans, United Daughters of the Confederacy, Sons of Union Veterans and Daughters of Union Veterans that are also N-SSA members, there will be a meeting at the 144th National. We will have no agenda, only the opportunity to meet fellow Compatriots and Daughters. The N-SSA, UDC, SCV, SUV and DUV work hand-in-hand participating in parades, memorial services, reenactments, monument dedications, etc.

All N-SSA members are invited to attend the meeting/social. Just bring a chair or camp stool and your favorite drink.

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Civil War CrossWord Answer Key

Crossword on page 16

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LONG TERM PLANNING FOR N-SSA DONATIONS

By Wayne Jordan, Charitable Giving Committee

During this past year I’ve had conversations with many of our members about their plans for donating to the N-SSA and, in many cases, their aspirations to give more if and when it is practical to do so. We have members from all socio-economic strata here in America, and their generosity and dedication has been overwhelming. In this issue of the Skirmish Line I am going to address some longer term giving plans that will suit a certain percentage of our members. If you have an IRA account or 401k, life insurance, house, or any other large assets, you may be part of that group.

First, let me put in a plug for 2021 donations, though. Under the CARES Act you may donate up to $300 per taxpayer ($600 for a married couple filing jointly) and deduct the entire donation on your tax return even if you do not itemize your deductions. This is a very valuable and easy to use tax break that you can use when you prepare your 2021 returns. Of course, if you do itemize, you can continue to deduct much larger amounts of donations to qualified charities.

Now, for the long term planning. IRAs. 401ks, life insurance, annuities, and other retirement accounts are treated differently from other assets when your estate needs to be settled. First of all, your will generally has no say about where the proceeds for those accounts go nor what happens to that money. These accounts will go to the beneficiary(s) that you have (hopefully) designated with the company, broker or bank that administers these accounts for you. The good thing about this is that you don’t need to pay a lawyer and do a lot of paperwork to designate your beneficiaries, and you can easily change them at any time. You can also designate multiple beneficiaries to receive different percentages of the funds in these accounts. The bad news is that these accounts can also carry a heavy tax burden in many cases, and there are numerous rules that your heirs will need to follow when inheriting many of these assets to avoid some onerous penalties.

That leads us to one of the better laws that Congress has passed. You can make a qualified charity or nonprofit, like the N-SSA, a beneficiary of all, or a portion, of your IRA, life insurance, etc., and all of that money will go free of income taxes to that charity. Many people have been able to build up large balances in some of these accounts over the years, and only have drawn out minimal amounts each year during their lifetimes in order to avoid taxes. At this point the income taxes that would otherwise come due can be permanently avoided by having a nonprofit designated as the beneficiary of some or all of the balance in the account. Depending on the size and content of your estate and your family situation it may make sense for you to think about including the N-SSA in your estate plan as a designated beneficiary. As an example, I recently spoke to an old college friend who has built up a large retirement account but has no children or husband.

She designated our college as her beneficiary. She’ll use as much of it as she wants (and pay taxes on that portion), and whatever is left over will go directly to the college upon her death with no legal hassle or taxes.

Although much of the foregoing is rather easy to set up and make changes to, do keep in mind that the rules change from time to time and everyone’s situation is somewhat different. Don’t make assumptions when looking into plans for these types of bequests, but research and/or seek legal advice as you feel the need to.

There are multitudes of other legal maneuvers that can be used to avoid taxes and ensure that the maximum amount of your money goes to the places and people that you desire to benefit from your life’s work. Nonprofits like the N-SSA are the best beneficiaries under our tax laws. There are numerous types of trusts that can be set up to serve both your needs and the needs of the beneficiary nonprofit. They go by many names and often have numerous names used interchangeably for the same trust. I’ll mention two of them here, and I’ll go into more detail in a future edition of the Skirmish Line.

The first is a Charitable Remainder Trust. It allows you to put assets into a trust that you may draw money from for your use, but upon your death the remainder will go to the designated nonprofit. There are several types of tax advantages that you may be eligible when doing this, some applicable now and some later. The second is a Charitable Lead 25 Skirmish Line Summer 2021

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Trust. It basically works in the reverse of the Remainder trust. In this trust the charity receives regular cash flow from the trust but in the end the principal value will go to your family or other designated beneficiary. This type of arrangement can be most satisfying because it allows you to see your money go to your favorite charity while you are alive to enjoy it (in addition to the tax breaks).

UPDATE ON CURRENT DONATIONS AND PROJECTS – As of July 4th when I’m writing this, we have had thousands of dollars in donations come in in response to our spring fundraising campaign. Again, many skirmishers are generously supporting the N-SSA. The special projects that were highlighted in this campaign are the N-SSA Historical Center rehab and the Doc’s Place N-SSA Store’s new POS system. Our top donors for these two projects so far are Bruce Miller and Earl Coates who each donated $1000 to the Historical Center, and Nick Taylor who donated $500 to the store.

AMAZON SMILE DONATIONS – A recent quarterly donation from Amazon Smile of $230 brings the total donations from Amazon to $2894.12. Remember when purchasing from Amazon to set up the North-South Skirmish Association as your charity and make purchases from the site at smile.amazon.com. It doesn’t cost you a cent and is free money to the N-SSA._ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Would you like to send in a donation now? Just send this form with your donation to:

Wayne Jordan, Charitable Donations Committee, 8606 Eagle Glen Terrace, Fairfax Station, Va 22039

N-SSA , c/o

Name ____________________________________________ Amount of donation__________ Address _______________________________ City ____________ State ______ Zip_______ Email _________________________________ Phone ________________________________ Credit card #_________________________________ Exp date__________ CVV___________

All Checks should be made out to the N-SSA. All donors will receive a letter of receipt by mail. The N-SSA is a 501 c 3 organization and donations are eligible for tax deductions.

CORRECTIONS: Due to a formatting problem in the last edition of the Skirmish Line, some of the 2020 donor categories were not clearly listed. Below is a reprint of those categories and donors. Sponsor level denotes donors who contributed over $1000 to a specific project. – Editor Bathrooms - Sponsor level In Memory: Past team members and original Anonymous(1) Confederate Engineer Regiment Dennis, Mark 1st Regiment Engineers Hodgdon Powder Company Doc’s Place Rehab – Sponsor Level Zebelean, III, John Donated Shoot Fees 20th Georgia 27th NC Troops 67th NYVI 73rd New York Cockade Rifles Generator Brown, Jr, John Frank Hall, Jeff Hogge, Dana Ward, John Generator - Sponsor Level Classified ad: Interrior only Estok, John $0.60 cents per word (Minimum 15 words).

Miller, Bruce & Terri Are you interested in advertising in the nssaeditor@gmail.com Skirmish Line?

We publish four times a year and reach Reach out to me at thousands of potential customers.

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BOOK REVIEW

By Carl M. Kruger

The Austro-Hungarian military was the first real innovator of Jaeger operations and equipment in Europe. The firearms which were issued reflected in most cases the best, most effective and most up to date that the government could provide.

The first book dedicated exclusively to the weapons

of the Austrian Jaeger forces has been written by noted expert Stefan Schuy. This work is exhaustive and extremely well illustrated.

The “landscape” format allows the reader to appreciate the details and frankly the beauty of the items pictured. The author’s association with the Military Museum (k.u.k. Wehrrtechnischen Studiensammlung) in Braunau am Inn provided him with access to what is one of the finest collections of Austrian military arms in the world.

Separate chapters deal with the early models of various Jaeger weapons including the doublecarbine (Doppelstutzen), air rifles, and the various tube-lock designs. The section dealing with the conversion to percussion systems and specifically the Lorenz series is very informative, covering many variants as well as a special model for the Navy. This chapter will be of special interest to the America collector as a number of these were imported during the Civil War. Other sections deal with ramrods, basic items of issue, ammunition, bayonets and the advent of

the various breechloading conversions.

The book is written in German, but the illustrations and photography are of such a quality and quantity that the non-German speaker will still profit greatly from what is within.

With 472 pages chock full of information, this is the best source on the subject anywhere and from any source.

The book may be ordered from the author at josef.schuy@gmail.com and can be purchased using PAYPAL. The price is Euro 115.00 plus Euro 37.00 for shipping. (Note prices are in Euros!) When ordering please provide full name and address information.

This book is expensive for most American collectors, but it is worth every penny if you are at all interested in this theme.

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SUGGESTIONS FOR CASTING BULLETS

by Dave France, 6th Wisconsin Infantry 1. INTRODUCTION.

2. CASTING PROBLEMS.

Magazine articles and the instructions that accompany electric melting pots and bullet molds provide basic information about casting lead alloy bullets. However, the information is written about casting small bullets and is inadequate (or incorrect) for the needs of many black powder shooters. Many black powder shooters cast bullets in the 400 to 500 grain weight range that are more difficult to cast than light weight bullets.

Minie bullets are particularly difficult to cast well.

The objectives of this article are to help black powder shooters to: 1) cast good quality bullets (particularly Minies), 2) understand the alloys used for breechloading and cartridge firearm bullets, and 3) minimize the time spent casting bullets.

Incomplete filling of the bullet in the mold and cavities are the most common problems we find in casting bullets. Incomplete filling may result in minor defects (wrinkles or rounded corners on the bullet where the corners in the mold are sharp) or more serious, obvious defects. Incomplete filling may occur if: 1) The melt temperature is too low as it is poured or the melt cools rapidly before the cavity is completely filled. 2) The mold is not held against the spout of the dipper or pot long enough. 3) Air does not vent from the mold well slowing flow into the mold. 4) Air is trapped in the mold.

I have found three published sources helpful for casting information. All focus on casting smaller caliber bullets from lead alloyed with tin and antimony. Those sources are: Cast Bullets and the Cast Bullet Supplement No.1, published by the NRA Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, published by Lyman Publications Jacketed Performance With Cast Bullets by Veral Smith If you only cast soft lead, you probably don’t need any of the references listed above. I found Veral Smith’s book the most helpful. However, the book is no longer available. If you are going to cast with alloyed lead, I recommend Cast Bullets by the NRA. Most of the information and suggestions in this article are contained in one or more of the sources listed above. Several N-SSA members also contributed significantly to this article after reading earlier drafts.

There is considerable variation in the techniques used for casting bullets, particularly for Minies. Because of the variations in techniques that are possible and the many variables that affect casting bullets, it isn’t possible to describe one technique that will prove successful for every bullet and mold. You should develop a technique for each bullet you cast.

Cavities in cast bullets may be caused by shrinkage of the melt as it cools or by trapped air. Shrinkage cavities are small and are mentioned in most references about casting bullets. However, cavities resulting from trapped air can be very large. They are not mentioned in any reference I have seen, and as far as I know, occur only in Minies.

A shrinkage cavity forms in the last part of the melt to solidify. The melt usually cools and solidifies in the mold from the bottom of the cavity upward.

Consequently, shrinkage cavities generally occur near the top of the mold (in the nose of the bullet if it is a nose pour mold). If the last part of the melt to solidify is in the sprue (the extra metal we leave on top of the sprue cutter), there will be no shrinkage cavity in the bullet. Sometimes if we cut off the sprue too quickly, we can see a cavity appear at the tip of the bullet. Pure lead shrinks about one percent as it cools; harder lead alloys shrink even less. Consequently, shrinkage cavities are small.

Many black powder shooters have more problems casting Minies than round balls or conical bullets (solid bullets). The large surface area of the mold and core plug contacted by the melt as it flows into the mold is the major cause of these problems. The large surface area cools the lead faster than would occur with a mold for a similar weight conical bullet. Some bullet casters find large cavities from trapped air in the base of Minies. They are more common when using a

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bottom pour pot than when using a dipper. However, some Minie casters are successful at casting Minies with a bottom pour. With the bottom pour pot, if the melt is allowed to pour vertically into the mold (along the axis of the bullet), the rapid solidification of the skirt and the outer skin of the bullet may trap air in the mold cavity. The use of a dipper eliminates trapped air by changing the direction the melt is introduced into the mold.

Some bullets may be difficult to cast because of the design. A small meplate (bullet nose diameter) can be a disadvantage for a Minie since it slows the flow of the melt into the mold. Some molds are made with the hole in the sprue cutter and the meplate out of line, reducing the flow even more than a small meplate by itself. A thin skirt (particularly with a very heavy Minie) is another design feature that can make casting Minies more difficult. In general, heavier Minies are more difficult to cast than lighter ones.

3. BULLET MOLDS. The bullet caster should be aware of several considerations in selecting a bullet mold. If problems occur with casting good bullets from a mold, some changes to the mold may be helpful.

Mold materials. Most molds are either a good quality cast iron (usually nodular iron) or a good quality, heat-treated aluminum. There are advantages and disadvantages to both materials. Cast iron molds are heavier and may be tiring to use. On the other hand, cast iron is more wear resistant and less vulnerable to damage than aluminum. Furthermore, cast iron stands up to high temperature well and is more resistant to warping than aluminum.

The faster cooling of the melt that occurs in aluminum molds can cause bullet casting problems. The melt cools faster in an aluminum mold than in a cast iron mold because of the much higher thermal conductivity of aluminum. The thermal conductivity of brass is also much higher than iron and only slightly lower than aluminum. To avoid problems associated with faster cooling in an aluminum mold (particularly with a heavy bullet), the melt may have to be hotter than required for a cast iron mold. (Jacketed Performance by Veral Smith, pg. 63).

The sprue cutter. Some molds have a flexible thin steel

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or aluminum sprue cutter. A flexible cutter can deform from the load of the cutter attachment screw and cause a leak between the cutter and top of the mold blocks; a more rigid cutter helps to prevent this leakage.

(Overtightening the screw will tip the sprue cutter slightly and increase the leakage.) All of the custom molds I have seen have a thick steel sprue cutter. The cutter should be 3/16 (0.188) inches or more thick, and it should be ground or machined to a very flat surface on the mold side to help prevent leakage.

Additional advantages of the thicker sprue cutter are: 1) It provides improved sealing while pouring because of a larger contact area between the cutter and spout of the dipper or pot. 2) It also helps form a thicker sprue that aids in preventing cavities in the bullet.

The mold manufacturers seem to use one size opening in their sprue cutters: about 1/8 (0.125) inches. An opening of 1/8 inch works well for a small bullet or round ball but may not for a large bullet. Enlarge the opening to introduce the melt into the mold faster and help eliminate casting problems. I use a 3/16 inch opening for large bullets. Be careful not to make the hole larger than, or out of line with, the meplate diameter. The enlarged hole should be a chamfered hole (or conically shaped hole) through the entire thickness of the cutter. Chamfering the enlarged hole is necessary to provide a sharp edge to cut off the lead sprue. Be careful not to leave a burr on the bottom size of the cutter that will damage the top of the mold blocks.

There are two things that are helpful in preventing the sprue cutter from binding: 1) Add a small amount of lubricant between the bolt head and sprue cutter and between the sprue cutter and mold. Some use a small amount of bullet lube; others use a high temperature lubricant. The makers of aluminum molds generally recommend a lubricant to prevent galling of the mold.

2) If your mold does not have a spring washer, remove the washer that is under the bolt head and replace it with one. The spring washer may be a Belleville washer (a washer with a slight conical shape) or a lock washer (a split washer). Either type of washer will help to prevent the sprue plate from binding as the mold expands.

Guide pins. Large diameter guide pins are less prone to damaging the mating face of mold block than small pins. The damage can raise a spot on the mold face that causes a leak resulting in a fin on the bullet.

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If guide pins project too far, they will damage the mating mold block. If the guide pins do not project far enough, they will not align the two halves of the mold cavity and will produce an out-of-balance bullet.

Always close the mold gently to avoid damage from the pins.

Core plug. As noted in Section 1, a thicker skirt (at least 0.060 inches) can aid in casting good Minies.

This is particularly important for casting Minies that weigh 450 grains or more. If necessary, increase the skirt thickness by machining of the plug or by making a new plug. I have found that a very thin skirt is not necessary for a Minie to achieve good accuracy, even with light loads, if the lead is very soft.

Captive core plug. We can increase our casting rate for Minies if the mold has a captive plug. Some Minie casters have a machinist modify their Minie molds to convert to a captive plug. The increased casting rate (which is an advantage in itself ) helps keep the mold hot enough to produce good quality bullets.

Retaining plate for the captive core plug. Like the sprue cutter, the retaining plate should be flat steel that is unlikely to be bent out-of-flat. A plate thickness of 0.100 inches works well on the Minie molds I have.

4. CASTING EQUIPMENT. Some suggestions for equipment that will help cast good quality bullets follow: A large capacity electric melting pot (or furnace). I strongly recommend using a large capacity (20 pounds or greater) electric melting pot. I used a pot over an open flame for a few years. Changing to an electric pot made casting more pleasant and resulted in casting bullets at a faster rate. A large capacity electric pot is an advantage over a smaller capacity electric pot. The larger pot helps to maintain a consistent melt temperature and will provide a more consistent flowrate rate than a small pot.

All electric pots come with a thermostatic control that senses the lead temperature. Some come with a control that can be set to a temperature. Others come only with a number control (a disadvantage in my opinion). You will need a thermometer if you use the latter type of pot. The thermostatic controls are not always adjusted correctly on new electric pots. If you buy one, make sure it will bring the melt to at least an

850-degree peak temperature.

There are two basic types of electric melting posts: 1) bottom pour pots and 2) the pots made for use with a dipper.

Bottom pour pots. We can cast bullets at a faster rate (more bullets per hour) with a bottom pour pot than with a dipper. The bottom pour pot also permits casting while sitting. Over time, a leak or a slowing of the melt flow will occur with bottom pour pots because of dirt collecting in the valve. Occasional cleaning of the valve resolves the problem. I have owned an RCBS electric pot for fifteen years that has served me very well. In my opinion, bottom pour pots are best for bullet casting needs except for some Minies. However, some black powder shooters report good success casting Minies with a bottom pour pot.

Dipper pots (or furnaces).. Many bullet casters use dipper pots for all their casting. Many prefer them only for casting Minies. If you decide to use a dipper, you will find a dipper pot is much easier to use than a bottom pour pot (with the dipper) because of the larger opening of the pot and the unencumbered entry into the pot. The larger opening is also convenient for melting scrap lead or large ingots.

Some authorities state that lead can be poured into a mold faster with a dipper than with a bottom pour pot. That may be true for some bottom pour pots, particularly for the small pots. However, my RCBS pot will fill a one pound ingot mold in about three seconds at the highest flow adjustment. I have never had to enlarge the spout opening or even use the highest flow setting. Enlarging the opening may be helpful for some types of pots, but will require a new metering rod made to fit in the larger opening.

Ladles and dippers. A dipper with a spout (with a hole in it, not an open ladle) can introduce melt into the mold faster than a ladle if the dipper spout is held directly against the mold opening. The dipper should have enough metal around the spout to permit drilling the hole to a larger size. (The RCBS dipper is excellent). Drill out the hole in the dipper to increase flow of the melt through the mold. A hole size of about 3/16 (0.188) inches works well for me. It may be helpful to further increase the hole size, but be careful not to make the hole too large to work well with the opening in the sprue cutter. Making the hole

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larger than the hole in the sprue cutter will not help to increase the flow into the mold.

A large capacity ladle (without a spout) is handy for melting small amounts of lead and for dipping alloy from the pot to cast one pound ingots for later use. A ladle of about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds capacity works well.

Hardness testers. A hardness tester takes the guesswork out of using lead from different sources. I have tried two inexpensive hardness testers. The Saeco tester works very well but has the disadvantage of not providing a direct Brinell reading. I have had an LBT tester for several years and I use it more than I expected. It provides a hardness reading in the Brinell scale and is easy to use. Unfortunately, the LBT tester is no longer available.

The NRA publication, Cast Bullets, pg. 102, states the traditional thumbnail test is not an accurate means of judging the softness of lead for Minies. The hardness tester offers the bullet caster a more accurate means to judge the suitability of lead for casting Minies.

Similarly, if you cast harder bullets for a breechloading firearm, the tester will provide the means to ensure the hardness is what you need. If lead alloy bullets produced at different times have the same hardness, they should perform the same.

5. LEAD ALLOYS. Lead alloy hardness is measured in the Brinell hardness scale. Pure lead has a Brinell hardness of about five. Hardness relates to strength. Consequently, harder bullets are stronger and more resistant to deformation and barrel leading than a pure lead bullet. The more common types of alloy used by black powder shooters are the following: Soft lead. Some refer to soft lead as pure lead, but it is not 100 percent lead. Soft lead is frequently about 98 percent lead with small amounts of other materials. If the other materials do not raise the hardness too high, the lead can still be used for Minies. The hardness of the Minies I have used over the years has varied from five to eight (measured with my hardness tester). The bullets with an eight hardness shot very well. However, they were very heavy, and I used a very heavy powder charge, which helped them to expand and shoot accurately. A light bullet and/or powder charge might not work well, and I know other black powder

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shooters have had problems with Minies at an eight hardness. I can’t say with certainty what the maximum hardness lead is that will work for any Minie design, but it is probably six or seven.

Lead-tin alloys. The addition of tin to lead increases the fluidity of the alloy and increases the hardness of the alloy. Improved fluidity helps to cast bullets that are completely filled out. As center fire cartridges were developed in the nineteenth century, higher pressures and velocities necessitated the use of harder bullet alloys. Lead-tin alloys (without other alloying metals) answered the need for harder alloys at that time.

Many black powder shooters buy tin to add to soft lead. Reloaders of modern ammunition do not commonly use alloys of lead and tin (without antimony) for casting bullets. They find it cheaper and more convenient to buy alloys with tin and antimony (since they are part of the alloy as purchased) rather than to add large amounts of tin to pure lead.

Tin begins to come out of the lead-tin mixture at about 725 degrees and forms most of the dross on the top of the melt. Consequently, alloys with tin are usually cast at 750 degrees or less to preserve the tin in the alloy. The loss of tin is very slight at 750 degrees or below and has very little effect on bullets cast by black powder shooters.

The addition of four percent tin to pure lead (at an initial Brinell hardness of five) will increase the hardness to about ten. However, if soft lead has traces of antimony in it, the hardness will increase to a higher level. If tin over three percent to four percent is added to pure lead (without antimony), the hardness increase will not be proportional to the amount of tin added.

See the hardness chart which follows. Note an increase in tin from four to ten percent only slightly increases the hardness.

Many black powder shooters add small amounts of tin to soft lead to aid in casting good quality Minies.

Of course, Minies need to be soft to perform well in muzzle loading firearms, but one to two percent tin may not cause Minies to be too hard to shoot well. However, we need to be cautious in adding tin for casting Minies. The soft lead we buy may have small amounts of tin and antimony. The addition of one percent tin to soft lead may make it too hard for Minies. Users of tin for Minies also need to be aware Skirmish Line Summer 2021 32

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that the bullet hardness will change with time. Pure lead with tin will become softer with time, but lead alloyed with tin and antimony will become harder.

(Jacketed Performance by Veral Smith, pg. 56 and Cast Bullets by NRA, page 102). Minies cast from soft lead with added tin may initially be soft enough to use, but the increase in hardness that occurs within a few days may make them too hard.

information. However, the properties (after aging) of the alloys listed below are probably adequate for black powder firearms without heat-treating.

A chart showing the approximate hardness of the more common alloys used for casting bullets follows: Alloy

Brinell Hardness

Soft Lead

5 to 8

If we use a good quality Minie mold (designed well for casting), good equipment, and good casting methods, adding tin isn’t necessary.

Lead-Tin (2% tin)

8

Lead-Tin (4% tin)

10

Lead-Tin (10% tin)

11

Lead-tin-antimony alloys. The lead-tin-antimony alloys (harder than lead combined solely with tin) help prevent leading and permanent deformation of the bullet in the barrel; both problems cause loss of accuracy. Some black powder breech-loading firearms require harder alloy bullets to achieve the best accuracy. The accuracy of breech-loading firearms with pits in the bore or a rough bore can sometimes be improved by increasing the bullet hardness. Bullets cast from harder alloys have worked well in all the breech-loading firearms I have owned. These alloys are a bargain for many bullet casting needs if they can be purchased for less than or the same price as soft lead.

Wheel Weights

11 to 12

Wheel Weights plus 2% tin 13 to 14

Antimony added to lead increases the hardness more than tin. (Cast Bullets by NRA, page 103). Generally antimony and tin are both included in hard lead we buy. Very small amounts or arsenic will probably also be in the alloy to increase hardness; the arsenic magnifies the hardening effect of tin and antimony.

Most reloaders of modern ammunition do not change the alloys they buy except by adding tin to improve fluidity.

Lead we buy containing arsenic and antimony (both are toxic) cannot be heated (with the equipment we use for casting) to a temperature that will cause toxic vapors. Similarly, removing tin and antimony is not feasible. If these alloys are held at 850 to 900 degrees (the limit for most electric pots), a very small amount of tin can be skimmed off, but all the antimony will stay in the alloy. Adding antimony to a lead?tin alloy is difficult and not common practice reloaders.

These alloys can be heat-treated to increase hardness or can be dropped into water from the mold to increase hardness. See Jacketed Performance by Veral Smith or Cast Bullets by the NRA for more

Number 2 Alloy

15-16

Linotype

22

Wheel weights. The softest (and least expensive) leadtin-antimony alloy is wheel weights. Wheel weights are reasonably consistent and are the favorite alloy of many modern reloaders. They produce an alloy that casts well. Some bullet casters add tin to improve the fluidity of the melt and increase the hardness. I have cast bullets from wheel weights with one percent added tin, and I have added soft lead to reduce the hardness of bullets. The added tin did not improve the quality of the bullets. Adding soft lead greatly reduced the quality; many of the bullets did not fill out completely. I use straight wheel weights to cast the bullets for my percussion Sharps carbine and rifle, for 45 Colt bullets, and for bullets for a cap and ball revolver.

Wheel weights can be purchased at a very low price from tire stores, or they may give them away.

Unfortunately, they come mixed with dirt and other junk. If you cast bullets with wheel weights, melt the wheel weights outside the home, unless you don’t mind moving out of your house for a day or two afterwards. Remove all of the dirt and debris from the melting pot that you can and cast the metal into ingots for later use. Use a fluxing preparation as you melt the weights to reduce the need to flux while you are casting bullets. (See Section 7). When you melt the ingots later for casting bullets, they will produce almost no smell.

No. 2 alloy. Many casters of bullets for modern and black powder firearms use No. 2 alloy. It was originally a mixture of 90 percent lead plus five percent tin and five percent antimony. Today, an equivalent alloy (producing the same hardness bullet) will have more antimony than tin. For several years, I purchased (at

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considerable expense) No. 2 alloy from a reloading shop and used it for the bullets for my breechloading firearms. Eventually, I found No. 2 alloy had no advantage (other than convenience) over wheel weights. (Too soon old; too late smart.)

Linotype alloy. The hardest of the alloys described here is linotype alloy. For many years, linotype alloy was purchased by reloaders in the form of scrap linotype and made excellent bullets for modern cartridges. The linotype alloy had enough tin to help cast bullets that otherwise would not cast well (very long bullets). But linotype is about as common as a 1950 Ford today.

Nevertheless, some bullet casters still buy linotype lead or an equivalent alloy. It probably is harder than required in black powder firearms, but some black powder shooters use it with good success.

6. PREPARATION. Careful preparation before casting reduces the time to obtain good bullets and may help eliminate some casting problems.

Prepare one pound ingots of lead (or alloy) before casting. Adding large pieces of lead while casting greatly lowers the temperature of the melt and will add dirt. The lower melt temperature may cause the problems discussed in Section 2. If you buy lead in large pieces, it is best to set aside time to cast enough one pound ingots to last for several casting sessions and to flux to clean the lead of any dirt and debris. (See Section 7).

blocks.

Preheat the mold before casting. Don›t waste your time casting bullets to heat the mold to a temperature adequate for casting good quality bullets. First, if the pot has a ledge to hold the mold, start heating the mold by placing the mold on the pot while the lead is melting. Second, if the pot design permits, place the mold so the end of the sprue cutter is in the melt as it heats up; this should bring the mold close to the temperature required for good casting.

Finally, if you are using a cast iron mold, carefully heat the mold with the small flame of a propane torch.

Run the small flame over all the outside surfaces of the mold. Do not let the flame touch any of the inside surfaces or enter the mold; it will leave deposits if you do. You will probably be able to skip this last step if you leave the tip of the sprue cutter in the lead long enough and/or if you smoke the mold. Heating an aluminum mold with a torch may damage the mold. It may seem risky to heat a cast iron mold with a torch; some manufacturers recommend against it. However, may bullet casters (including me) preheat their molds with a torch without a problem.

Smoke the mold cavity. We can use the smoke from a match, a cigarette lighter, or a carbide lamp to coat the cavity of the mold to help cast good quality bullets. The thin layer of carbon left by smoking acts as an insulator and slows cooling of the melt in the mold. The delayed cooling helps to eliminate some casting problems. «Mold Prep» (a liquid) sold by Rapine works similarly. I usually use a carbide lamp Clean the mold. Cleaning grease and oil from the mold to smoke the mold cavity before starting to cast, and it with a solvent saves time in casting bullets without is surprising how much it improves the quality of the defects. Denatured alcohol works well; rubbing bullets cast from some molds. alcohol leaves some slight chemical residue. Even more important, cleaning the cavity, the vent lines, and the 7. THE BULLET CASTING PROCESS. matching faces of the mold block of collected dirt and small bits of lead can prevent casting problems.

Fluxing (and Cleaning). Fluxing refers to cleaning I use a small brass brush (made for the Dremel tool) the melt to remove dirt and small particles of oxides. or a firearm cleaning brush turned in a drill press to Fluxing also refers to remixing tin contained in the clean cast iron molds (not aluminum). If there are any dross back into the melt. Fluxing consists of: 1) small bits of lead in the mold, they can be removed Scraping the bottom and sides of the pot to release by heating them with a small flame from a propane any dirt into the melt. 2) Adding a fluxing preparation torch (to soften it) and wiped away with a small wood to the top of the melt and thoroughly stirring the carving tool (such an X-Acto hobby knife) or a thick preparation through the melt and dross at the top of piece of cloth. If the vent lines are plugged they should the melt. The fluxing preparation may be a commercial be cleaned with the same knife or the tip of a very product, beeswax, or bullet lubricant. 3) Skimming small file. Be very careful not to nick or scratch the the dross and dirt from the top of the melt. Most

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authorities recommend frequent fluxing. Some authorities suggest fluxing every fifteen minutes and every time alloy is added to the melt to keep the tin mixed well with the lead. Frequent fluxing may cause a problem in casting large bullets (particularly Minies) that would not occur in casting smaller bullets. The time spend fluxing will cause a drop in the mold temperature that may result in poor filling of the mold and a reduction in bullet weight. On the other hand, frequent fluxing helps to keep the melt clean of the small particles of dirt and oxides that will cause bullet quality problems. Some of those problems are: 1) A reduction in bullet weight. (Dirt is lighter than lead).

2) A duller bullet surface caused by the oxide freezing out on the bullet surface as it cools. 3) Cavities in the bullet.

If the small ingots we add to replenish the melt were fluxed well while they were prepared, we can flux less frequently. (See Section 6).

The frequency of fluxing is an individual decision.

Many bullet casters (including me) only flux the metal as they prepare ingots before casting, at the beginning of a casting session, and after a long break. Others flux if they see a change in the appearance of the bullets or begin to see cavities.

With the casting of harder alloys, very little tin and no antimony is lost if the alloy is not fluxed while casting.

Use of a bottom pour pot helps reduce the loss of tin since only a small amount of tin will enter the dross if it is undisturbed by a dipper and if the melt is kept at 750 degrees or less.

With the casting of soft lead, we need not flux to mix tin back into the melt. We are not trying to mix alloying elements with the lead. If we do not use a fluxing preparation when removing the dross, most of the dross removed from soft lead will be lead. The dross can be melted after several pounds have been collected and most of the lead will be recovered. After remelting the dross, only a small amount of gray powder will remain that should be discarded.

Begin casting at a high temperature. 850 degrees for soft lead and 750 degrees for alloys with tin work well for me. Starting at a high temperature helps reduce the time to cast good quality bullets.

For bottom pour pots. 1) Hold the mold opening against the spout. 2) Open the valve and hold the mold

against the spout for a couple seconds after it is filled.

3) Separate the mold and the spout. 4) Pour additional melt on top of the sprue cutter if the sprue remaining after step 2 is not large enough to keep shrink cavities from forming in the bullet. If you need to pour additional melt, you may find it faster to close the valve as you separate the mold and spout rather than adding another step.

Note that the valve may have to be adjusted to slow the flowrate if the flow is greater than required. The adjustment limits how far the operating rod can be raised. I adjust the flowrate down from the maximum for all the bullets I cast, including Minies, but my RCBS pot has a very fast flowrate if opened fully. I use a much lower flowrate for small bullets and round balls than for larger bullets. After finding the correct flowrate adjustment, always open the operating rod to the stop. I have found it necessary to keep the spout in contact with the mold until after it is filled to cast bullets with a sharp edge at the base. Molds and the bottom of the spout were designed to fit together without leaking.

Some bullet casters use a different method with bottom pour pots with good success. Tony Bagdon, the designer of the Hogdon Minie, reports he casts Minies without cavities with a bottom pour pot.

Tony also has had success casting other Minies (most heavier than the Hogdon Minie) with a bottom pour pot. He adjusts the flowrate down from the maximum opening, and uses a relatively high 850 degree melt temperature . Tony rests the mold on a mold guide as he pours to allow him to leave a consistent small gap between the spout of the pot and the mold. He tilts the mold slightly as the melt enters to prevent trapping air and creating a cavity. In an old publication by Major George Nonte, he stated that he preferred casting with a gap also.

For using a dipper. Fill the dipper until almost full.

Hold the mold (with the opening horizontal) against the dipper. Turn the dipper and mold together while maintaining contact. Hold the dipper against the mold for a couple seconds after the mold is filled. Pour a generous sprue on top of the sprue cutter if necessary to prevent cavities.

The sprue should be the last part of the melt to cool.

Be careful not to open the sprue cutter before the sprue is completely cooled. Early opening of the sprue

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may smear lead between the blocks and the cutter.

It may also cause a cavity in the bullet. If cooling of the sprue takes too long, try touching one edge of the sprue cutter to a wet sponge in a shallow container of water. Moisture on the sprue cutter will evaporate quickly, but be very careful not to allow moisture to be carried into the pot. (This is one of the suggestions from the NRA Cast Bullets publication.)

After casting for a time, problems may occur when the mold temperature becomes too hot. The typical problems are frosty appearing bullets and whiskers (caused by some of the melt entering the vent lines of the mold). After casting a quantity of bullets, it generally is necessary to lower the temperature of the melt. Experiment to determine the best casting temperature and strive to consistently keep the mold and melt at the best temperature.

Keep the mold and melt temperature from dropping while casting. You can keep them hot by following the suggestions that follow: 1. Cast at a good rate.

2. Limit delays or breaks while casting.

3. Fill the mold and leave the mold where heat from the pot will help keep it hot if a delay is necessary. If possible leave the mold with the tip of the sprue cutter in the melt.

4. Add lead or alloy in one pound ingots after about one pound of the melt has been removed (unless you use two pots ? see item 6 below).

If larger amounts of lead are added, the melt temperature may drop enough to cause casting problems.

5. If a bottom pour pot is used, make a steel wire basket that fits into the top of the pot unless you use two pots. Using the basket will prevent cooling the melt that enters the mold from the bottom of the pot and helps prevent the melt from solidifying in the valve. Always keep the level of the melt above the bottom of the basket while casting. Add to the melt by placing ingots in the basket instead of dropping them into the bottom of the pot.

6. The best way to keep the melt temperature high and consistent is to use two pots. Using

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two pots avoids dropping the melt temperature every time an ingot is added and frequent adding of ingots is unnecessary. Use one pot to cast from; use the other pot to melt the ingots and to provide hot melt for the casting pot. If you want to cast lead at 850 degrees, and if you use two pots capable of keeping the melt at 850 degrees, you should have no problem keeping the melt in the casting pot at the desired temperature. Or for casting at a lower temperature, the melt in the casting pot can be kept at a near constant temperature. I use two pots for all my casting. I find it helpful in casting good quality Minies. I use two pots for casting round balls and conical bullets also because of the convenience.

Frosty-looking bullets. If the mold and melt temperatures are very high, frosty-looking bullets may result. The frosty look is due to a metallurgical change to the alloy at the outer surface of the bullet. If the thin outer skin is scraped away, the bullet looks normal.

Some authorities state they should be remelted. Other authorities state they are more consistent in weight than normal appearing bullets. Cast Bullets, page 137, states that evenly frosted bullets are not harmed by the frosting except for a slight reduction in diameter.

I shoot them, but sort them into my second class of bullets along with others that have minor defects. As far as I know, they do not cause an accuracy problem.

8. LEAD POISONING. The NRA publication, Cast Bullets, page 42, has a thorough discussion of this potential problem. To summarize very briefly: 1) Lead poisoning caused by casting bullets is very uncommon. Very long exposure to fine dust is necessary to cause a problem. 2) Use adequate ventilation (a fan, not necessarily blowing through a door or window open to the outside).

3) Keep the temperature of the alloy down to limit vapors. 4) After casting or handling lead, wash before smoking or eating.

9. SOME FINAL COMMENTS. You probably will be able to cast good quality bullets without following all the suggestions in this article.

There is some art involved in casting and it takes some experimentation to find what will work best.

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Don’t leave casting to the last minute, and leave adequate time for casting. You will probably cast three times as many good bullets in two hours as you will in one hour if you consider preparation time. I usually watch video tapes while casting and I don’t mind casting for three or four hours at a stretch with only short breaks.

It is worth the time and expense to buy good equipment if you want to cast good quality bullets. If you have a mold that gives you problems, buy one you know works well for others. I have owned molds that would not consistently produce good Minies and others that made casting easy.

One Man Army

By Anthony “Tony” Keppler We often think of skirmishing as a team sport because it truly is. But sometimes there are such wonderful feats of marksmanship by our members that we must share them. Below are the exploits of one of our very own proving just what one man can do with a firearm.

Eddie Davenport - Editor

The Mason-Dixon shoot came at a busy time for me, and I got a late start coming to the range. I didn’t arrive until around 2pm.

When I got there, I found that no one else from my team, the 9th Virginia Cavalry, was there. I wanted to shoot smoothbore, and when I couldn’t pick up anyone else for a team, I decided to shoot it by myself.

Paul Davies, from the Washington Blues, helped me to make up my targets. The Blues also agreed to switch off with me for time and safety monitors. Earlier in my shooting career, the Washington Blues were an inspiration to me. As a team of shooters, they were good shooters and worked well together – they were the team to beat in the Potomac Region.

When the shoot started, I was concentrating on shooting for the pleasure of it and trying not to think about everything going on around me. In the first event, I broke six pigeons on the backer board before missing my seventh shot. I was able to shoot one more pigeon before time ran out. I left two pigeons on the backer board and finished 7/8 shots.

The second event was wood blocks. I broke six for six in this event. I started to feel the pressure of having people watching me, and I wanted to do well.

For the third event, hanging pigeons, I shot five pigeons in five shots before missing on my sixth shot. I got one more pigeon on my seventh shot, finishing the event 6/7 and clearing the hanging pigeons.

There isn’t a lot of time to clean your gun between events, plus having to time and safety for another team. The host team helped me to hang targets, and I’m grateful to them for their help. Everyone was very supportive and happy for me.

The fourth event was 4” tiles with the bottom cut off. With some level of anxiousness mixed with enthusiasm, I was able to go six for six in this event.

I finished the shoot with 25 hits in 27 shots taken. I want to thank the Washington Blues for being supportive and not giving me time to think about what I was doing. One of the Blues team members gave me his metal to remember the day by, and this was very humbling. I never thought out of 19 teams shooting that day, I would finish in 12th place shooting by myself.

Even after shooting at the Fort for 42 years, it’s still exciting to participate in competition. It’s great to be featured in an article in the Skirmish Line.

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144th National Skirmish September 29 – October 3, 2021 Fort Shenandoah The Host Teams welcome you to the 144th Nationals 13 Conf. Inf. 008PT * 1st Md. Cav., CSA 018PT * 2nd NJ Vols. 020MA * 27th NC Tr. 033CR * 108th NY Vol. Inf. 041NE * 21st Va. Inf., Md. Guard 042CH * 2nd Md. Cav. 046PT * 13th NJ Vols. 055MA * Baltimore Rifles, 1st Md. Vols. 085PT * 72nd NY Vol. Inf. 126NE * 1st Regt. Eng. Tr., ANV 137 CV * 1st Fla. Cav. 160CV * Harris’ Light Cav. 176MW * 14th Miss. Inf. Regt. 205DS * Buncombe Rifles 211CR * Terry’s Texas Rangers 217NE * Chiswell’s Exiles 220PT *11th Va. Cav. 226CV * Co. G 1st US Sharpshooters 232WR * 48th Va. Inf. 271CV th

Skirmish Director: Charles Hahn, 13th Confederate Infantry SCHEDULE OF EVENTS – Check for new times and locations in bold Small Arms Committee (SAC) Inspections – Hocker-Hughes Building – IG Office, Wed.-Fri. mornings only – 9:00-11:00AM Executive Secretary Office Hours – Wed: 1:00-3:30PM Thurs-Sat: 8:30-2:30 Sunday: Closed Tuesday, Sept. 28 – Sunday Oct. 3, 2021 Registration/Target Pickup: Noon Tuesday – Noon Sunday All Members attending the Nationals are required to sign in atRegistration.

Wednesday, Sept. 29, 2021 8:00 Required Training: All Range Personnel – Stat House;Stat Personnel inside Stat House 8:15 Required Training: Line Judge at Stat House/ Ordnanceat Main Tower/Tower Staff behind Main Tower 8:30-9:00 Set up ranges for Individual Matches 9-5:00 Main & revolver ranges open for Individual Matches Thursday, Sept. 30, 2021 7:30-8:00 Set up ranges for Individual Matches 8-5:00 Main & revolver ranges open for Individual Matches4-6:00 Artillery Inspections – 1st Va. campsite 5:30 Smoothbore Pistol Demonstration Match Non-Shooting Events - Thursday 1:00 PM “Doc” Chambers Memorial Golf Outing 5-6:00PM SCV & UDC Social – Lower Level Historic Center7:30PM Board of Director’s Meeting – Historic Center Friday, Oct. 1, 2021 7:30-8:00 Set up main range for Individual Matches and set uprevolver range for Revolver Company Matches 8:00-10:00 Artillery Inspections – 1st Va. campsite 8:00-11:45 Main range open for Individual Matches8:00-9:15 Phase I Revolver Company Match 9:15-10:30 Phase II Revolver Company Match 10:30-1:30 Resume Revolver Individual Matches 11:00 Artillery meeting - all cannon/mortar crews – Barn11:45-12:15 Set up main range for Smoothbore Match

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12:15-1:45 Smoothbore Company Matches – 2 relays 1:45-2:15 Set up main range for Breechloader/Spencer Match 2:15-3:15 Breechloader/Spencer Match – 1 relay, double hang 3:00-5:00 BB Issue Air Rifles, Safety Glasses & Conduct Individual Matches – Revolver Range 3:15-3:45 Set up main range for Single Shot Match3:45-4:30 Single Shot Match – 1 relay, triple hang 4:30-5:00 Set up main range for Mortar Match 5:00-6:00 Mortar Match Non-Shooting Events – Friday 10:00AM Inspection of Probationary Teams – IG Office6-7:00PM AA meeting – Lower Level Historic Center 7:30PM Membership Meeting in the barn. All units must berepresented.

8-9:00PM History Committee Speaker Series – Lower LevelHistoric Center 8:30PM Irish Jam – Ruritan Pavilion – New musicians welcome Saturday, Oct. 2, 2021 7:30-10:00 BB Issue Air Rifles, Safety Glasses & conduct Individual Matches – Revolver Range. Last relay10:00AM 7:30-11:00 Stat Office open for Individual Match protests8-11:00 Artillery Inspections – 1st Va. campsite 8-8:30 Set up main range for Carbine Company Match8:30-12:00 Carbine Company Match 11-11:45 BB Gun protests – Small Arms Building12:30-1:00 Set up main range for Artillery Matches 12:45 Set up and conduct BB Gun Team Matches – mainrange, Position 55+ (Match begins at 1:30PM) Skirmish Line Summer 2021 38

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1-5:00 Artillery Matches & Memorial Firing 3:00 Protest period closed for complete Company Matches 3:30-5:00 Individual awards available for pickup – Stat House 5:30-6:00 BB Gun Matches Awards Ceremony – Memorial Park6:00 Awards Ceremony (not Artillery & Musket) – Memorial Park Non-Shooting Events – Saturday 4-7:00PM Gainesboro Fire Hall – Roast Beef & Ham Dinner7:00PM Protestant Worship – Lower Level Historic Center8:00PM Catholic Worship – Lower Level Historic Center 9-11:30PM Barn Dance Costume Committee Events – Saturday, Oct. 2, 2021 11-12:00 Registration: Infants, Children, Girls, Boys Civilian &Boys Military 11-12:45 Registration: Young Ladies, Adults & RevolvingTrophy 12 Noon Children’s Competition; Young Ladies, Adults & Revolving Trophy category competitions to follow

Workshop (open to all) to follow Adult Competition.

4:00 Robert L. Miller Award – Memorial Park Costuming events are held in Memorial Park. In case of inclementweather, competition will be held in lower level of Veteran’s Bldg.

Sunday, Oct. 3, 2021 8:00-8:30 Set up main range for Musket Co. Match 8:00-10:00 Stat Office open for Artillery Match protests8:30 Opening Ceremonies for Musket; match to immediately follow 12:00 Registration closes ca. 1:30 Protests close ½ hour after final musket matchresults are posted 2:00 Final cleanup of ranges Awards Ceremony in Memorial Park ASAP following Musket Match – Artillery awards will be presented at this time.

Company Matches

Smoothbore Pistol Demonstration Match 1.12.5 yards) 9 clay pigeons on a backer 2.( 12.5 yards) 6 hanging 6"x6" ceramic tiles 3. (12.5 yards) 6 hanging clay pigeons 4. (12.5 yards) 6 hanging 4"x4" ceramic tiles

Breechloader (4 competitors/ company)

Carbine (8 competitors/company) 1.(50 yards) 32 clay pigeons on a backer 2.(50 yards) 16 hanging 4”x4” ceramic tiles 3.(50 yards) 16 hanging clay pigeons 4.(50 yards) 16 hanging clay pot silhouettes 5.(100 yards) 10 hanging 6”x6” ceramic tiles

Revolver (4 competitors/company) 1.(25 yards) 12 clay pigeons on a backer.

2.(25 yards) 6 hanging 6”x6” ceramic tiles.

3.(25 yards) 8 hanging clay pigeons.

4.(25 yards) 8 hanging 4”x4” ceramic tiles.

Spencer (4 competitors/company) 1. (50 yards) 32 clay pigeons on backer 2. (50 yards) 16 hanging 4”x4” ceramic tiles 3. (50 yards) 16 hanging clay pot silhouettes 4. (100 yards) 10 hanging 6”x6” ceramic tiles

Smoothbore (4 competitors/company) 1.(25 yards) 12 clay pigeons on a backer 2.(25 yards) 8 hanging 4”x4” ceramic tiles 3.(25 yards) 8 hanging clay pot silhouettes 4.(50 yards) 6 hanging 6”x6” ceramic tiles

1.(50 yards) 32 clay pigeons on a backer 2.(50 yards) 16 hanging 4”x4” ceramic tiles 3.(50 yards) 16 hanging clay pot silhouettes 4.(100 yards) 10 hanging 6”x6” ceramic tiles

Single Shot BLR (4 competitors/ company) 1.(100 yards) 5 hanging 6"x6" ceramic tiles 2.(50 yards) 16 clay pigeons on a backer 3.(50 yards) 8 hanging 4"x4" ceramic tiles 4.(50 yards) 8 hanging clay pot silhouettes

Musket (8 competitors/company) 1.(50 yards) 32 clay pigeons on a backer 2.(50 yards) 16 4x4 hanging ceramic tiles 3.(50 yards) 16 hanging clay pigeon 4.(50 yards) 16 hanging clay pot silhouettes 5.(100 yards)10 hanging 6”x6” ceramic tiles

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Fort Shenandoah Winchester, Virginia

Arrows on the map below indicate one-way traffic on Fort Shenandoah roads unless otherwise posted during the event. Failure to obey these restrictions will result in a citation and disciplinary action by the N-SSA Board of Directors. If you experience any problems while at Fort Shenandoah, please call 540-888-4334 (only available during National Skirmishes). In case of an emergency, dial 911. Emergency evacuation routes are posted on all bulletin boards and available at the Executive Secretary’s office.

144th Fall Nationals Host Staff Officers Skirmish Director Charlie Hahn 13th Confederate Infantry Adjutant Ed Thompson 21st Virginia Infantry, MD Guard Artillery & Logistic Tim Scanlan 1st Maryland Cavalry, CSA Chief Announcer Kennie Post 13th Confederate Infantry Individual Match Bob Peloquin Harris” Light Cavalry Ordnance Paul Altland 21st Virginia Infantry, MD Guard Range Officer Scott Harris 1st Florida Cavalry Range Support Dave Eppley 13th Confederate Infantry Registration Howard Taylor 2nd Maryland Cavalry Revolver Range Larry Chiarizia 21st Virginia Infantry, MD Guard Sanitation John Barnette Baltimore Rifles, 1st MD Volunteers Statistics Richard Hill 14th Mississippi Infantry

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An Introduction to Your Small Arms Committee By: John Holland, Chairman, and Small Arms Staff Officer

The N-SSA regularly loses and gains some several hundred members every year. The Covid 19 Pandemic has only made that condition worse.

However, with the loosening of restrictions many members who had dropped out are now returning, and along with them are a healthy number of first time members, too! With that in mind, perhaps it is time to introduce these new members, and refresh the returning members, to the Small Arms Committee (SAC), what it is, what it does, and how to work with them.

As Chairman, I have attempted to make the Small Arms Committee, and its services, more accessible to you, the membership. We have become more of a “customer service” operation than ever before. I say “we” because this is certainly not a “committee of one” by any means. The SAC is a very vibrant and active committee, comprised of members representing nearly every Region of the N-SSA. Some Regions may not have a SAC member, which is usually due to that Region’s proximity to Ft. Shenandoah where most skirmishes have at least one SAC Inspector available. Other Regions may have one Small Arms Inspector and some have as many as four or five. These numbers are governed by several things such as the physical size of the Regions, the number of people, etc. Until last year there had been a list of SAC Inspectors on the N-SSA Home page. We were advised to remove the list of names for security reasons due to the public access to the list, and the increasing growth of groups of people who are anti- anything related to the American Civil War. If things settle down later on perhaps we can restore the list. Only time will tell. To arrange for a small arms inspection at a Regional Skirmish you can email me and I will make arrangements for you if at all possible. You will find my email address in the N-SSA publication “The Skirmish Line”. By doing this ahead of time, the SAC Inspector will be prepared for you with the proper inspection sheets. If you are contemplating a new project, don’t hesitate to contact your SAC for information on what is required beforehand. We really don’t like telling you that you

have to make a correction, any more than you like hearing it! I believe you will find the SAC Inspectors to be polite, courteous, and willing to assist you with any problems you may have.

Some N-SSA competitors believe that all Regional I.G’s are also automatically SAC Inspectors. This is not true. Quite a few SAC members do serve in both capacities, and others only volunteer their services to the I.G. Corps at each National skirmish. This is why you will see some SAC members doing lottery inspections on the firing line in the capacity of an IG. For those of you who have never required the services of the SAC, I would like to take a moment to explain how the small arms inspection process works, and what responsibilities you have as a member of the N-SSA. When you build or acquire an arm that requires an Individual SAC Card, you should contact your Regional SAC Inspector, or me, to make arrangements for an inspection at a mutually agreeable time and place. You will want to get the arm inspected at the first opportunity.

This is so you may use it in official N-SSA matches without the potential of incurring a penalty, either for yourself or your team. Some SAC Inspectors have gone so far as to have invited members to their homes, and others have actually made “house calls” to get inspections done for you. If your arm meets the established requirements, your SAC Inspector will fill out an Inspection Sheet, issue you a Temporary Approval, and send the original sheet to me. The inspection sheet will then be reviewed for any errors or omissions. If everything is acceptable, you will then receive a permanent SAC Card for your arm.

Occasionally an arm will require a correction before the permanent card can be issued. In an instance such as this, you will receive a “Temporary Conditional Approval”, with a liberal amount of time to make the corrections. This will allow you to use the arm until the corrections have been made. Once the corrections are completed you will want to see your Regional SAC Inspector to have him/her verify that said corrections have been made. They will then contact

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me and I will update the original Inspection Sheet and issue the permanent SAC card.

NB - Conditional Approvals have an expiration date. In other words, after the end date indicated on the sheet passes, permission to use the arm expires. If you are found to be using such an arm after the expiration date, you, and or your team, will be penalized.

As per the N-SSA’s Rules, if you sell, trade, or otherwise dispose of an arm which has a SAC Card issued to it, the SAC Card is to go with the arm.

For your future convenience, if you purchase an arm from another member that requires a SAC card, ask them for it. This could save you untold grief. The reason for that is that there are many old-time arms that were inspected decades ago, and given SAC cards, that no longer meet the updated requirements of today. If such an arm is submitted for re-inspection you may be facing expensive upgrading to the current SAC standards.

We will do everything we can to find the archival documentation for you to prevent an unpleasant situation. But, if the SAC card is no longer with the arm, and we are not able to recover the old information, the arm in question will have to go through the entire inspection process.

If you are in possession of an old worn out SAC Card that has become nearly illegible, we will reissue you a new replacement. In order to preserve your SAC Card you are permitted to laminate it, or make a Xerox copy of both sides and present the copy when required to do so. This way you can store your original in a safe place. Just remember where that “safe place” is, as I have things I’ve stored in safe places that are so safe I don’t think I’ll ever see them again!

before. The next time your family is stuck on an occasion that may require a gift, you might just suggest that special book on Civil War arms that you have always wanted!

On the N-SSA’s website you will find a tab with a drop-down for “Rules & Forms”. This will take you to the updated 2021 “Approved Arms List”, and the “Approved Arms List by Manufacturer and Importer”, which is designed as a cross reference list. These lists will save you a lot of time, and sometimes anguish, wondering if an arm is approved for use in the N-SSA, or not. This is also a very handy cross reference list to have available when you are at the next gun show! Please note that if an arm is not on the list, it has not been submitted for, and does not have, a “Production Approval”. Some of those arms which have not been submitted can receive an “Individual Approval”, and some can not.

I highly recommend reading and becoming familiar with the N-SSA Rules, and especially Section 19, which is “Small Arms”. This will answer many questions you may have regarding sights, modifications, and what does and does not have to be inspected.

Best wishes on your future projects, and know that your SAC will assist any way possible!

John Holland Chairman, SAC Editor Note: John Holland can be reached via email at

JH44NY@VERIZON.NET

SAC inspection sheets: Although the current generation of sheets has been “fleshed out” with enough information that an arm can be completely replicated from them, you, the builder, have a personal responsibility to know what the arm actually looks like before you begin! Please be an educated consumer. There are more excellent books on Civil War arms available today than ever

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Memorial Park – N-SSA Engraved Brick Memorial Request Form NAME

UNIT: Year Deceased or memorial notation (ex. From loving family)

Description of memorial bricks Bricks are 4” x 8” in size Laser Engraved

All bricks will be of the same font and color

Directions:  Please print clearly on the form.  Only deceased N-SSA members may have a brick placed in Memorial Park.  Duplicate bricks may be ordered at the same price (Ex. One brick for Memorial Park, one brick for family, team, etc.). Please indicate this on the form. Duplicate brick(s) ordered can be picked up at the secretary’s office during each nationals. Duplicate bricks will not be shipped.

Number of bricks ordered__________ @ $30.00 each Total Amount submitted $___________ Make Checks Payable to: North-South Skirmish Association Submitted by: Name: _____________________________________________ Unit Name:_______________________________________ Unit Number and Region ________ Contact number or email address___________________________________________________ Mail to: Executive Secretary Judy Stoneburner P.O. Box 218 Crozet, VA 22932-0218

****************************************************************************** Office Use Only: Date Received: ____________________________

Check #________

Amount $___________

Brick Placement________

Deposit Date_____/_______/_____

Extra Brick:

NO

YES

____________________

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COSTUME COMMITTEE SCHEDULE OF SPECIAL PROJECTS AND SEWING CIRCLE EVENTS SPECIAL PROJECTS:

FALL- 2021. KNITTED OR CROCHET WEARABLES OR ACCESSORY SPRING-2022 SUN BONNET FALL-2022. DRAWERS SPRING-2023 CHEMISE FALL-2023 HOOP- CAGED OR COVERED

SEWING CIRCLE:

FALL-2021 SUN BONNET On Friday SPRING-2022 DRAWERS FALL-2022 CHEMISE SPRING-2023 HOOPS- CAGED OR COVERED

ALL SCHEDULED COSTUME EVENTS ARE HELD IN THE MEMORIAL CIRCLE DUE TO INCLEMENT CONDITIONS COMPETITIONS ARE HELD IN THE ROOM LOCATED UNDER THE VETERANS BUILDING/ MUSEUM BUILDING. SEWING CIRCLE EVENTS LOCATION IN ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS WILL BE ANNOUNCED OF PENDING LOCATION, OR CANCELLED IF A COVFERED LOCATIONS CANNOT BE LOCATED FOR USE.

Guess What! I made a Straw bonnet!

How to make a period victorian straw bonnet with a hot glue gun and or totally done by hand sewing!!!

By Sharleen West Supplies 1 ready made straw sun hat from craft store 1 foam head from craft store 1 /2 yard of light weight netting with dotting from fabric store, white or ecru your choice 5 inch wide grosgrain or satin face ribbon in the colors of your choice if using two or three colors purchase at least 9 feet.

Binding: can match the color of the straw bonnet or 2in wide color of ribbon of your base color of your choice for your neck curtain of your bonnet.

36’’ of cotton crochet yarn Marking pen Thread, white or ecru, color of ribbon choices Hot glue gun if using that technique Glue sticks Warm water in kitchen sink Sharp sewing needles Scissors Belt loop turner or a knitting or darning needle for

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threading yarn 12 long quilting straight pins or ‘T’ pins Tape measure Masking Tape Template for period shape included in this instruction package Wire cutters or florist wire cutters/ scissors 1 yd of trim to cover neck curtain if glueing your bonnet Silk flowers/ feathers/ any items that would be acceptable which would be used in period millinery.

Research or view the accompanying photos to give you ideas for your bonnet.

NOTE: Some of the photos are of the sewing method of this Bonnet; use the same procedure For the glue gun method.

Step 1. Cut out template.

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Step 2. Lay straw hat out flat. Place the corrected template on the hat and pin it on with straight pins.

Make sure the template is against the curve of the brim of the straw at and the curved cut out is placed on braid rows from the bottom of the crown where the brim begins to form. Mark with the marking pen a dot where the template and the beginning of the row where the straw braid row stops (see photo 2 a) 2 a.

4a Step 5. Using masking tape, tape all of the cut raw edges. (Photo 6a) Step 6. Fill Kitchen sink with warm water, place hat in water soak for 30 minutes.

(See photo. 6 a)

Step 3. Trace with the marking pen the template around the straw hat. ( see photo 2 a & b

2b Step 4. Cut off the excess straw brim of the hat. ( see photo 4 a)

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Step 7. After 30 minutes place on a towel and gently wipe excess water off hat, place on Styrofoam head and secure with long quilting pins or with T pins. ( see photo 7 a)

Step 8. Let Dry for 24- 48 hours 48 is better. To check the forming of the the bonnet. Take out Pins around the cheek area and if the straw is forming in the bonnet shape then it is dry Enough to proceed. ( see photo 7 a)

9a

Step 9a. While bonnet is drying you can proceed to gathering up the netting or lining of the Bonnet. This and the neck curtain will be the only items of actual sewing if you are Proceeding with the glue gun method making the bonnet. Some trims in fabric stores Are already pleated so you can just glue it on and not have to use needle and thread.

(1) Open out the netting, flat. You can use your sewing machine or you can use needle and thread. Turn under one 3 inch on each cut edge. Making only a 2 inch hem ( see photos 9 a,b,c). Then repeat with the other end of netting.

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9b

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9c

10b Step 11. The netting now is sewn together, now sew a ¼ in casing at the opposite folded over edge. This will be the draw string sizing lining. Pull through cotton string using a belt loop turner or run a small safety pin with string attached or use a yarn bob to thread sting though.

See photo 11 a,11b

Step 10, fold over netting, meeting each sewn folded raw edge, pin one end about ½ in shy of the other. ( as shown in photos 10a above, sewn in 10b). ( You can glue this with fabric glue or with heat bond no sew hem tape) After you sew the two fold together, then either hand gather with needle and thread or do a machine gathering stitch on sewing machine. This gathering stitch will be used to adjust and add fullness to the netting lining around the brim of the bonnet and will surround the face.

11 a

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FINISHED APPLYING THE RIBBON BAND TRIM ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BONNET. THE NETTING IS THE LINING THAT HIDES ALL OF THE STITCHES OF HAND-SEWING.) Hot glue with a chop stick to keep from burning you hands, glue the ruffle gathering to the bonnet. This is also where you will sew in the lining when you finish applying the outside ribbon.

(See 13 a)

11b

Step 12. Pull string through the sizing casing. See photo 12a and pull tight. This will be inserted in the straw bonnet.

13. a Step 14 Now if you are going to hand sew the bonnet.

Sew a band enclosure on the back cut edge of the bonnet or glue a band you can use grosgrain ribbon. ( see the top of photo 13 a) 12 a.

After you apply the band, now you can apply the neck curtain (photo 14 a, b, c )

12. b Step 13. Insert the netting in the bonnet. (IF YOU ARE HAND SEWING THIS BONNET DO NOT INSERT THE NETTING UNTIL YOU ARE

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16.

Step 17. Now for the fun part decorating the outside of the bonnet. You can sew or hot glue your selected flowers, feathers, berries and leaves.

(Photo 17)

14a

14 b Step 15. Now place your ribbon band on the outside of the bonnet (photo 15)

17

15.

This can be sewn on or hot glued.

The finished product

Step 16. Now you can place the ribbon tie on the tip end of the bonnet to tie under your chin to hold the bonnet on. Take the wide ribbon gather up with a needle and thread pull tight and sew to the ends of the bonnet this you cannot hot glue. (Photo 16)

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N-SSA and SUVCW Team to Dedicate Headstone

By Bruce Miller On July 6, 2021, members of the N-SSA and the General Israel B. Richardson Camp of Oakland County, Michigan, Sons of Union Veterans of the Civil War (SUVCW) participated in the dedication of a new headstone for a local veteran of the famed Michigan Cavalry Brigade.

Following the formal dedication ceremony that dates back to 1917 for members of the Grand Army of the Republic (GAR), Matt Van Acker, Chairman of Michigan’s Save the Flags program, presented a Legislative Tribute Certificate to the camp for their adoption of the regimental flag carried by the First Michigan Volunteer Cavalry Regiment. This adoption also honors trooper George Washington Cole of Algonac, Michigan who fought with Company H of the regiment. A photo of the flag was presented to Mary Lewis, great granddaughter of trooper Cole. As part of Save the Flags, the camp contributed $1,000 to “adopt” this flag to assist in its long-term care and conservation. The adopted flag is part of the Michigan State Capitol Battle Flag Collection, numbering 240 banners, including flags from the Civil War, the Spanish-American War and World War I. As part of “Save the Flags,” groups or individuals may adopt a flag by contributing to its preservation.

The First Michigan Volunteer Cavalry Regiment was formed at Camp Lyons near Detroit in September 1861. Its

commanding officer was Colonel Thornton Brodhead, a well-known former state senator and editor of The Detroit Free Press. The regiment later became part of the Michigan Cavalry Brigade, commanded by the dashing “boy general,” George Armstrong Custer. The Brigade became one of the most famous fighting units of the Civil War. The regiment’s greatest moment in the Civil War occurred on July 3, 1863, near Gettysburg. The First Michigan Cavalry was ordered to charge the rebel cavalry. As they formed, Custer rode up and, drawing his saber, shouted “Come on, you Wolverines!” Historians have described this as one of the most desperate, as well as brilliant, charges of the war.

Trooper George Washington Cole was born in New York in 1841 and moved to Algonac, Michigan with his family at a young age. At age 22, he enlisted with the First Michigan Volunteer Cavalry Regiment. He was severely wounded by a gunshot to the chest in the Shenandoah Valley in December of 1864. He recuperated in the hospital until his discharge on July 12, 1865 and returned to the family home in Algonac. A carpenter by trade, he became a wood worker in the local boat factories. He and his wife Cynthia had eight children, two of whom he named after Civil War Generals-Fred Sheridan and Charles Custer Cole. Trooper Cole died on October 18, 1909 at the age of 68.

N-SSA members participated in the recent headstone dedication service for trooper George Washington Cole of the 1st Michigan Cavalry. From left to right: Tom Lagoe, Chris Einowski, Bruce Miller, Morgan Lipka and Paul Lipka.

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The Magazine of the North-South Skirmish Associtiation, Inc.