Loading Stand for the Single Shot Smoothbore Pistol By Gary Brockmiller
A loading stand is required by N-SSA rule 20.7.1 for both individual and team competition. The following is an instructional guide to constructing a stand for the single shot smoothbore pistol (SSSP) While a number of stand designs are currently in use, there were several goals that I wanted to achieve. • Portability: The stand needed to be collapsible so that it could fit inside of my pistol box. As I already have a pistol box, scope & stand and cartridge & cap box, I’m running out of available hands to lug gear to the firing line. This should eliminate one trip back to my truck. • Stability: The stand needs to securely hold the SSSP with minimal chance for it to move and slide around during the loading process. • Durability: Needs to be strong enough that it doesn’t break but also is not too heavy. Materials list: (1) One 2”x 8”x 12” scrap wood. (Hardwood like oak, walnut or maple is not preferred because its too heavy and dense) Standard non-pressure treat pine or fir is best. This will be the base of the stand. (2) One ¾”x 8”x 20” soft wood (pine, fir, etc.) This will be the upright section of the stand (3) One 5/16“x 3” coarse thread carriage bolt and wing nut (4) Two wood screws 2 ½ “long This stand is built for the Harpers Ferry SSSP sold by Dixie Gun Works that has the following dimensions: Length 16”, height (bottom of the butt to top of the barrel) 4 ½”. If you are building a stand for a different pistol than you will need to adjust dimensions as necessary. (1) Cut the base to the desired width. I measured the bottom of my pistol box which is approximately 9” wide, so in order to avoid a “jam” fit, I cut the base to 5” wide. (2) Cut 2 ¼” off the base. This piece will become part of the pistol butt “pocket.” (3) Cut the upright to the same width as the base. Then make two additional cuts from the length. The first cut is 2 ¼ inches. This will be the upright support. Second, cut 3 inches from the length. This will be the barrel supports With the base, make a mortise cut ¾” wide, ½” deep and 6” from the end of the base (FIG 2). This mortise is where the upright will fit into. Make the mortise so that the upright will fit securely but not so tight that it’s difficult to remove. The next step is the hardest in the building process. It is quite helpful to have a 1 ½” sanding drum that Fig attaches to a portable drill or drill press. Mark the center line of the base on the opposite side from your mortise cut and the center line of the 2 ½” pistol butt “pocket.” This will aid in keeping everything 2 centered when forming the pocket. On the base piece, you will want to make an oval that is egg shaped approximately ¾” deep at the end. (FIG 3)
Fig 3
On the 2 ¼”” piece you will grind away two adjoining sides and make them match up to the base piece. This is the most timeconsuming part as you will need to constantly check the fit with your pistol. You will want the pistol butt to slide into the pocket, being neither too loose nor tight. (Fig 4) Fit upright support into the mortise you cut into the base and then scribe a line where the two pieces meet. (FIG 5)
Fig 5
49 Skirmish Line Spring 2022
Fig 4
