Urban Call ­ Sponsored by Sally Beauty

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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Sally Beauty helps hurricane victims URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Sally Beauty Co. mounted a three-prong approach to provide aid in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, which devastated the Gulf Coast region of Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama. Hair-care products were sent to Houston and Dallas, where large numbers of evacuees were relocated. Relief collection canisters were placed at registers at some 2,000 Sally stores across the U.S. A massive internal fundraising campaign to assist Sally employees who are homeless and in need was established, and pay provisions were made for displaced employees. The company also joined with beauty industry groups including the National Beauty Culturists’

HURRICANE & DISASTER RELIEF INFORMATION

League (NBCL) to raise $5 million dollars to “Rebuild Beauty on the Gulf Coast.” Donations are being taken at www.probeautycares.org. Sally Beauty Chairman Michael Renzuilli is a member of the fundraising oversight committee, which aims to provide aid to salon owners, professionals, distributors, beauty schools and students. “We have estimates that more than 50 percent of the salons in the region have been completely destroyed,” said Renzulli. “We know that the road to recovery will be paved by the generosity and concern of beauty industry leaders and professionals.”

Alabama Governor’s Emergency Relief Fund (877) 273-5018 Congressional Black Caucus (202) 226-9776 Federal Emergency Management Association (FEMA) (800) 462-7585 Louisiana Disaster Recovery Fund (877) HELPLA1 (877) 435-7521 Mississippi Hurricane Recovery Fund (866) 230-8903 National Emergency Resource Registry www.Swern.gov Rebuild Hope Now Coalition (202) 689-1965 Texas Disaster Relief Fund (800) 228-0504

Vol. 2 Issue 2 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225 ❍ Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 www.segmentedmarketing.com FAX: (336) 759-7212 ❍ PHONE: (336) 759-7477 Photo courtesy of www.globalsecurity.org

Thousands of cosmetologists were affected in New Orleans and other Gulf Coast regions due to Hurricane Katrina.

Beauty associations including the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) are uniting to raise funds to aid their colleagues who have lost their businesses.

Designer: Renée Canada Art Direction: 3CCreative Staff Portrait Artist: Leo Rucker Vol. 2, Issue 2

Join SMSi Beauty Network Your beauty salon, barbershop or church can become part of the SMSi national community of networks. The church network includes 8,000 churches; the beauty network has 30,000 salon

Donations are being accepted at the Congressional Black Caucus (CBC) Foundation’s Hurricane Katrina Relief Fund, 1720 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. 20036. Call (202) 226-9776 for more information. See page 8 for CBC member directory.

network has 2,000 venues — nightspots, bowling alleys and professionals; and the barber neighborhood events. Health network has 10,000 professional professionals will find valuable barbers. If you are a youth-group contacts through the SMSi Health coordinator, you may want to Care Network (5,000 health-care check out the youth network champions). To find out more (2,500 venues). The entertainment about each network and how to join, visit www.segmented marketing.com or call SMSi at (336) 759-7477.

See UNLEASHED Pg. 14

Inside... 8

Black Caucus

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Barbershop

Photo courtesy of www.superiorpics.com

Photos courtesy of Sally magazine

On the 35th anniversary of its foundation, the Congressional Black Caucus (www. Mel Watt congressionalblack caucus.net) met in Washington, D.C., to handle more than just routine business. “After Katrina: African-American Leaders Respond” was the theme of the forum organized to address the aftermath of the hurricane’s

Joe Leonard, PhD., executive director and chief operating officer of the Black Leadership Forum (202) 689-1965, and Melanie Campbell, president of the Coalition On Black Civic Participation (202) 659-4929, have formed a “Rebuild Hope Now Coalition.”

Celebrities lead the color parade: Mary J. Blige (left); Tyra Banks (above); and Destiny’s Child’s Kelly Rowland (top from left), Michelle Williams and Beyoncé Knowles.

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Urban Call Briefs

As the old saying goes, it’s great to be among friends. This publication is distributed to 100,000 stylists and their patrons in the multicultural beauty care industry. It is also available through the National Beauty Culturist’s Lafayette Jones League (NBCL) Publisher state and local chapters whose officers receive copies for distribution. Thanks to the continued sponsorship of Sally Beauty Co., we put our best foot forward at multicultural hair and beauty conferences like the Bronner Brothers show in Atlanta, where gospel singer Yolanda Adams received a complimentary copy at the Sally booth. Our mission, as always, is to be a bridge between cosmetologists and their patrons and a road for manufacturers and distributors who meet the unique hair and beauty-care needs of people of color. Glad you can join us on the path.

URBAN CALL 4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225 Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 Tel. (336) 759-7477 FAX: (336) 759-7212 E-mail: urbancall@smsi-net.com

The Gospel movie

Lisa Raye McCoy

URBAN CALL WRITER

destruction in the Gulf Coast region. “All of us have witnessed the devastation and the human suffering of so many as a result of Hurricane Katrina,“ said Mel Watt, chairman of the caucus. “We have also witnessed compassionate acts of Americans who have tried to help improve the lives of so many survivors. It is in this spirit of compassion and humanitarian efforts that we assemble to honor all who have sacrificed.”

Hair color without limits. Women of color are enjoying every hair color imaginable from blackest black to lightest blond. “Hair color is absolutely one of the biggest cosmetic moves an African-American woman can make,” says Mikki Taylor, beauty director and cover editor of Essence magazine, one of the oldest, widely read and best-known magazines for black women. Celebrity singers Mary J. Blige and Beyoncé Knowles have led the parade demonstrating a range of colors from blond to brunette. Even those with natural locks like actress Kim Fields, whose TV credits include Facts of Life and Living Single, are using color. Her locks are blond. As ”Blondielocks,” Fields has performed globally at jazz festivals and spoken-word lounges. Some women like to color their hair at home, and with the new conditioning formulas in athome kits “it’s a lot more comfortable,” says Taylor. Others prefer to place their hair-color change in the hands of professionals who can advise on color selection and the timing of a color application. “You have to consider your skin color, your eye color, your personality, your profession and — is your hair in good shape?” says Benia Davis, who is founder of Image Haircolorists Council (www.imagehcc.org/aboutus.html) in Chicago which offers hands-on workshops, educational

Omar Gooding

By Gerry Patton

Among Friends By Rose M. Walsh URBAN CALL WRITER

Honorable Mel Watt

Congressional Black Caucus organizes relief fund

Showtime

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What’s New

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For our online edition, visit www.smsibeautynetwork.com

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Urban Call

Photo Editor: Suvondra Montgomery Photographers: Michael Cunningham, Washington, D.C. Dorothy Lewis, Goldsboro, N.C. Elijah Lindsay, New York, N.Y. Jason Pitt, Winston-Salem, N.C.

The multicultural beauty-care source delivered to 100,000 readers.

Publishers: Lafayette Jones, Sandra Miller Jones Associate Publisher: Joseph Rodney Lawrence

Director of Operations: Constance Harris Database Management and Circulation Manager: Tahnya Bowser Editorial Assistants: Bridgette Miller Jones, Lori Lawson

Director of Client Services: Gerry Patton

Beauty Consultant: Jacqueline Cash, Jaquelin First Impressions

Executive Editor: Alan Cronk Editorial Director: Rose Walsh

Warehouse and Shipping: Supervisor: Ric Woods Manager: Jordan Lash

Production Manager: Myra Wright

Financial Services: Roslyn Hickman

For information on subscribing to this publication contact Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop edition at 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425. ©2005 Segmented Marketing Services Inc., 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 271063425. Urban Call is published by SMSi as part of a strategic alliance with Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi) and Piedmont Publishing, a Media General company. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any material in this publication without the written permission of SMSi is expressly prohibited. Publishers reserve the right to accept or reject all advertising matter. SMSi, founded in 1978, is a Winston-Salem, N.C., minority-owned national marketing, promotion and publishing company that specializes in helping major companies and organizations better serve ethnic customers. This publication is distributed to 100,000 beauty salon and barber professionals and their clients in the SMSi Beauty Salon and Barbershop Networks, through National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) national officers, state presidents and chapter leaders, as well as to attendees of leading ethnic beauty trade shows. SMSi distributes millions of free product samples, publications and consumer offers through its national networks of African-American and Hispanic churches, beauty salons, barbershops, entertainment venues and health-care networks. Urban CallTM and SMSiTM are registered trademarks of Segmented Marketing Services Inc.



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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

CUTTING

EDGE Children from multicultural backgrounds exhibit a variety of hair textures from fine and curly, to coarse and wavy, from tightly coiled to smooth, from thin to very thick. To help manage their children’s hair, some parents opt for the natural look — braids, cornrows, locks, short crops, Afros, twists, Zulu knots. Others like to use relaxers for ease of combing and styling. No matter which path is chosen, there is always Renée Reynolds a need for good maintenance. Natural looks require proper shampooing and conditioning just as those achieved through chemical processing. The good news is that there are products designed especially for children, like Sally Beauty’s Silk Elements Silken Child line, which contain silk amino acids to add strength. The products also contain botanicals such as shea butter and aloe vera for moisture. Introduce your daughter to a good maintenance routine of shampooing, moisturizing and conditioning. She may need a detangler to provide lightweight conditioning as well as protection from heat damage. If limp curls are a problem, try a moisturizing crème. Finally, consider a glossing product to add that finishing touch. It’s a great product to smoothe frizz and fly-aways while adding an intense shine. If you are not sure about what is the best maintenance routine, ask your favorite stylist the next time your daughter visits the salon. Stylists deal with many types of hair and will have the best information. Whatever style — natural or relaxed — your stylist can tell you how often to shampoo and condition and other tips for proper maintenance and easy styling. Renée Reynolds is the director of merchandising for ethnic and multicultural products for Sally Beauty.

Master Stylists By Gerry Patton URBAN CALL WRITER

Anika Robbins, a native of Logos, Nigeria, is a talented cosmetologist, cosmetology educator, makeup artist, beauty director/fashion writer, and owner of Anika and Friends, (www.anikainternational.com), a fashion consultancy based in Minneapolis. A motivational speaker, Robbins inspires audiences nationwide with her passion for total wellness and personal empowerment. Her make-up artistry has been featured on Oprah’s Live Your Best Life national tour, MTV’s Mary Tyler Moore statue dedication and Teen Vogue magazine. She has worked for beauty-product companies like Clairol and L’Oréal as well as for Shop NBC. She has done makeup and wardrobe for the rhythm and blues band Mint Condition, and makeup for Grammy award winner Ann Nesby. Call (612) 670-6355.

Anika Robbins

Dr. Benia Davis, CEO and founder of Benia de la Coiffures, International in Chicago (www.imagehcc.org/aboutus.html) and lifelong member of the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL), is a veteran with 42 years in the cosmetology industry. A beautyindustry visionary, Dr. Davis is founder and president of the Image Haircolorists Council (IHCC), a nonprofit organization committed to enhancing knowledge of hair arts and sciences, basic color maintenance, and the latest color trends for beauty professionals. He has an extensive hands-on technical background and has garnered numerous awards for hair design. The Allied Cosmetologists of Illinois present an annual award for outstanding achievement in his honor. Contact Davis by calling (312) 263-1037. Dr. Benia Davis

Thomas Hayden (Mr. T. and Company, Chicago), known as “Mr. T.”, has developed an impressive reputation as an award-winning national and international hair designer, consultant, master platform artist and teacher. In the beauty industry for more than 40 years, Mr. T. has won every major hairstyling competition in the country and was the first black to become the California State Champion. He is a three-time winner of the Bronner Brothers Beauty Show in Atlanta and the recipient of the top award for color by Clairol. In 1981, he became the first American to win the autumn festival of the European Hairstyling Championship in Brussels, Belgium. Contact Hayden by calling (773) 643-4900.

Thomas Hayden

Hair stories at National Black Theatre Festival By Rose Walsh URBAN CALL WRITER

Paris Davis Dean’s one-woman show, Outliving the Scars on My Back, was based on a poem she wrote about her struggles with her hair.

Dealing with hair has provided dramatic moments to many women of color. Actress Paris Davis Dean wrote a poem about it, Outliving the Scars on My Back, which evolved into a one-woman theatrical production that won rave reviews at the most recent National Black Theatre Festival in Winston-Salem, N.C. (www.nbtf.org) “It was one of the most talked-about shows at the festival,” said Larry Leon Hamlin, producer and artistic director of the cavalcade of theater that arrives every two years in the

North Carolina city known for its love of the arts. “We had about 20 more shows that should have been seen,” said Hamlin, talking about the roster of 40 shows that were presented during the weeklong festival, “but we just couldn’t fit them in.” He forecasts that some of them will be on the ticket when the bi-annual festival opens July 30–Aug. 4, 2007. Dean’s play recounts her childhood struggles with hairstyles as she treks from St. Louis to Mississippi to Chicago to New York City and ultimately Los Angeles. She hopes that the play will help others see that “true

beauty is a state of mind.” Her thoughtprovoking and humorous approach has touched many audiences. “I had one woman who came up with tears in her eyes to hug me after the play was over,” said Dean about her performance in Winston-Salem. Dean has a fine arts degree in acting from Howard University in Washington, D.C. With her husband, Michael, she formed the Los Angeles-based Weaselhead production company that produced the play. The original poem that inspired the play is being produced on a CD. For more information, call (336) 723-2266.


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URBAN CALL WRITER

Shows, dates and locations are subject to change on this 2006 calendar. Be sure to phone or check the Web site to confirm a date.

Beauty Expo Trade Show Feb. 12–13 Georgia Congress Center Atlanta Contact: Ann Park (314) 454-1112 E-mail: btexpousa@yahoo.com Web site: www.beautyexpousa.com Bronner Brothers Hair Shows Feb. 18–20 and August 5–7 Atlanta World Congress Center Atlanta May 6–8 Baltimore Convention Center Baltimore Contact: Janet Wallace, Show Manager (800) 547-7469 E-mail: bbshow@bronnerbros.com Web site: www.bronnerbros.com Chicago Midwest Beauty Show Healthy Multicultural Hair Conference March 4–6 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, Ill. Contact: Paul Dykstra, Executive Director (312) 321-6809 E-mail: cmbs@isnow.com Web site: www.isnow.com Haroon Rashid, master stylist and educator at the Van Cleef Salon, is the producer of the multicultural tract at the Chicago Midwest Beauty Show sponsored by Cosmetologists Chicago. World of Color Beauty Expo March 25–27 Oakland Convention Center & Marriott Oakland Hotel

Proud Lady Show April 8–10 Tinley Park Convention Center Chicago Contact: Geri Jones, Executive Director (312) 321-6824 E-mail: ahbai@sba.com Web site: www.proudlady.org Premiere Show Group April 9–10 Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, Ala. Aug. 27–28 Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Fla. Contact: Lynn Finch, Creative Director (407) 265-3131 Web site: www.premiereshows.com Beauty Revolution Northwest April 9–10 Washington State Convention and Trade Center Seattle Contact: Tom Berger & Associates (602) 569-9039 E-mail: todd@tombergerassociates.com Web site: www.tombergerassociates.com International Beauty Show (IBS) April 30–May 2 Jacob Javits Convention Center New York City Contact: Mike Boyce, Show Manager (203) 882-1300 E-mail: mboyce@questex.com Web site: www.ibsnewyork.com

International Hair & Nail Show May 21–22 Meadowlands Expo Center Secaucus, N.J. Sept. 17–18 Cook Convention Center Memphis, Tenn. Contact: Rudy Armstrong (800) 676-7469 E-mail: rudy@ihshow.com Web site: www.ihshow.com Cosmoprof North America July 16–18 Mandalay Bay Las Vegas Contact: Melissa Coe (800) 557-3356 E-mail: Melissa@probeautyassociation.org Web site: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

National Beauty Culturists’ League 87th Annual Convention & Trade Show July 22–29 B C L N Renaissance Hotel P Cleveland F B Contact: IN K Dr. Katie B. Catalon, U P WI T H National President (202) 332-2695 E-mail: kbcatalon@bellsouth.net Web site: www.nbcl.org L

Beauty Revolution LA Jan. 29–30 Los Angeles Convention Center Los Angeles Contact: Tom Berger & Associates (602) 569-9039 E-mail: todd@tombergerassociates.com Web site: www.tombergerassociates.com

Oakland, Calif. Contact: Bernice Calvin (212) 580-1407

US

By Suvondra Montgomery

2006 NBCL STATE SHOWS South Carolina State Cosmetologist Association June 10–14 Radisson Hotel & Conference Center Columbia, S.C. Contact: Dr. Pearl B. Clark (803) 773-5149; (803) 775-8851 E-mail: jclark@clarklawfirm.com

Hair Etc. Beauty & Health Expo July 29–31 Gallard Municipal Auditorium Charleston, S.C. Contact: Tia Brewer-Footman, Marketing Director (843) 529-9944 E-mail: tia@myhairetcmagazine.com Web site: www.myhairetcmagazine.com

Modern Beautician Association of New Jersey Oct. 1–6 Clarion Hotel & Convention Center Pleasantville, N.J. Contact: Dr. Lois H. Nelson (215) 227-0901; (856) 779-0852

Bonner International Gold Hair & Trade Show Nov 10–12 Long Beach Queen Mary Dome & Hanger Long Beach, Calif. Contact: Richard Bonner, President (310) 603-0731 E-mail: bonnerhairshow@verizon.net

Texas State Association Beauty Culturists’ League Oct. 7–12 Marriott Hobby Hotel Aiarport Houston Contact: Dr. Barbara Phillips (713) 433-3025

DATES TO BE ANNOUNCED

Call Suvondra Montgomery at Urban Call with news about your shows (336) 759-7477; fax (336) 759-7212; smontgomery@smsi-net.com.

Afro Hair & Beauty Show Alexandra Palace Way London Contact: Verna McKensie, Event Manager 011 44 207-498-1795 E-mail: info@afrohairshow.com Web site: www.afrohairshow.com Carolina Trade Show Contact: Bobby Benet, Show Director (800) 385-5535 E-mail: benetinc@aol.com Web site: www.hairsymposium.com Continuing Education Expos Stringer Publishing Company Contact: George Stringer (313) 838-0353 Golden Scissors Show Contact: Glynn Jackson, Creator (202) 452-7445 E-mail: glynn@goldenscissorsawards.com Web site: www.goldenscissorsawards.com Hair Wars David Humphries: Show Producer (313) 534-8318 E-mail: hairwars@ameritech.net World Natural Hair & Braid Show Contact: Taliah Waajid (877) 480-9328 E-mail: asktaliah@naturalhair.org Web site: www.naturalhair.org

Photos by Elijah Lindsay and courtesy of Bronner Brothers


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There is strength in our unity By Dr. Katie B. Catalon

ways to increase your trade knowledge and network of professional friends is to join Black beauty professionals are a large and the National Beauty Culturists’ League important business segment, according to (NBCL). As our motto states, there is the United States Census Department and “Strength in Unity.” Founded in 1919, NBCL independent industry research conducted is an association of 8,000 cosmetologists, among beauty salon and barbershop owners estheticians, barbers and nail technicians and operators by Segmented Marketing Inc. with members in 42 states. It is one of the (SMSi). There are about 120,000–125,000 oldest and most prestigious trade organizablack beauty professionals in the country tions for cosmetologists and allied induswho serve a growing customer base of 37.5 tries in the world. million black clients. What this means for There are also opportunities for higher our cosmetology business is more cuseducation. The National Institute of tomers — more women and men of color Cosmetology is the only accredited instituseeking professional services to meet their tion nationally that offers NBCL members unique needs in hair and beauty care. higher degree programs (B.A., M.A. and Beauty and barber professionals are Ph.D.) in cosmetology. Members also earn always looking for ways to advance their businesses and careers. One of the best degree credits by attending educational

SPECIAL TO URBAN CALL

workshops at state, regional and national conventions held every year. At NBCL’s annual conventions and trade shows, members gather to learn about the newest trends, techniques and products available to professionals in our industry. NBCL members get a 5 percent discount at Sally Beauty Supply. Join NBCL today. Small-business membership is $200. Corporate membership is $500. Call us at (202) 332-2695 or visit www.nbcl.org. Dr. Katie B. Catalon is president of the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL), headquartered in Washington, D.C. Its next convention will be July 22–29 in Cleveland. (see page 9.)

Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles and Care Guide features “Linking Pros” in every issue.

Queens book looks at hairstyles, includes black women’s stories By Rose Walsh

The book includes 50 black-andStokely Carmichael stood on cafeteria tables giving white photos and personal narMichael Cunningham, famous for his speeches, “attitudes about ratives of women from the portraits of black women in their church racial pride were being U.S., Africa and England. hats (Crowns, Doubleday, 2000) has proaltered,” says Jones. “By Several fantasy hair shots duced another treasure trove of pictures in the time I was a senior, are shown. Jennelle Byron Queens: Portraits of Black Women and Their the homecoming queen (pictured) has hair made Fabulous Hair (Doubleday, 2005). Teaming had a natural.” Jones is up on the top of her head with Cunningham to write the narrative is married to Lafayette to look like the Twin George Alexander. Jones, Urban Call Towers of the former World publisher. Sandra Miller Jones (pictured), Trade Center in New York Other founding chair of Segmented City. It is her tribute to a women feaMarketing Services Inc. family member who tured in the (SMSi), tells her experiwas killed along book include ence with hair at Howard with 3,000 Tonya Lewis University in other Americans Lee, wife of Washington, D.C. As a on Sept. 11, movie maker sophomore she noted Sandra Miller Jones 2001, when Spike Lee that students at this an attack brought (Malcolm X and She’s historically black colboth towers crashing Gotta Have It) and lege were at first “antidown. author of Gotham Diaries natural”— not liking Photographer (Hyperion, 2005), who the look of the afro. Michael Cunningham talks about her natural But when R&B singers blondish/reddish hair, and is executive director like James Brown sang Shelia Bridges, interior dec- of Urban Shutterbugs, I’m Black and I’m Proud, orator and TV show host who a photography and menand Howard students like toring program for urban speaks about losing her hair fiery civil-rights leader — a condition called alopecia. youth. His work is featured in URBAN CALL WRITER

Jennelle Byron

Photos cour te sy of Doubled ay

museums across the country. Visit his Web site at www.mcphotog.com. Writer George Alexander is the author of Why We Make Movies: Black Film Makers Talk About the Magic of Cinema (Broadway, 2003). He has written for TV — Black in the 80s (VH1) and for several publications — Black Enterprise, American Legacy and Daily Variety. He is a graduate of Morehouse College in Atlanta and Columbia University Graduate School of Business in New York City.

Fashion designer Tisch Simms says that fantasy hairstyles “make me feel very theatrical, like a goddess, a queen.”







STATE PRESIDENTS*

NATIONAL OFFICERS

Strength in Unity: National Beauty Culturists’ League Inc. Officers

Dr. Katie B. Catalon National President

Dr. Vienna Clarke 1st Vice President

Dr. Velma Crayton 2nd Vice President

Dr. Reginald Mitchell 3rd Vice President

Dr. Brenda Gray 4th Vice President

Dr. Elsie Harding Recording Secretary

Dr. Ruth Swint Treasurer

Dr. Jennifer Baylock Asst.Treasurer

National Officers Not Pictured: Dr. Michelle Lindsay Asst. Chaplain Dr. Saundra Perrin Asst. Parliamentarian

Dr. Ida B. Williams Financial Secretary

Dr. Constance Reid Chairman of Finance

Dr. Jacqueline Clark-Charles Asst. Chairman of Finance

Dr. Gladys H. Robinson Chaplain

Dr. Vernice M. Waters Historian

Dr. Dorothy Johnson Asst. Historian

Dr. Lessie L. Gore Parliamentarian

Dr. Claire Mitchell Alabama

Dr. Brenda Gray Arkansas

Dr. Gerlene Donnell California

Nathaniel Baker District of Columbia

Mozelle Milton District of Columbia

Dr. Harriet T. Hawkins Florida

Dr. Ruth Swint Georgia

Dr. Lee Annie Bonner Illinois

Dr. V. Essia Barnett Indiana

Dr. Barbara Watts Kentucky

Dr. Bennie J. Lewis Louisiana

Dr. Hattie Smith-Shannon Maryland

Dr. Patricia Watkins Michigan

Dr. Florine Nails Mississippi

Dr. Rose Davis-Louis New Mexico

Dr. Susie Hook-Williams New York State Presidents Not Pictured: Moniquecolous S. Conyers Connecticut Jill Coleman Kansas Dr. Annetta Vertresse Missouri

Carol Lyles North Carolina

Dr. Christine Smith Ohio

Dr. Marcella Williams Oklahoma

Dr. Mary Sidberry Pennsylvania

Dr. Pearl Clark South Carolina

Dr. Barbara Phillips Texas

Dr. Regina Lundy Virginia

International Affiliates Not Pictured:

Pauline E. Patton Canada

Gloria Wamanda Africa

Eve Williams Japan

Dr. Zelrona Mackey Bahamas

Olivine Leerdam Virgin Islands

Dr. Eve Crew England

Charlotte Amalie Virgin Islands

Madhumita Patwary India

Ardyce K. Bolden West Indies

July 22–29, 2006

Sally Johnson Tennessee

Past Presidents Not Pictured:

PAST PRESIDENTS

INTERNATIONAL PRESIDENTS

* State president listing subject to change based on election year cycle.

Dr. Lois H. Nelson New Jersey

Madam J.E. Pennick 1919–1923

Madam Gold S.M. Young 1928–1933

Madam Estelle Hampton 1923–1925

Madam Rosemond Stewart Sanders 1933–1935

Dr. Katie E. Whickam 1957–1984

Madam Lula Shreaves 1925–1927

Madam Ethel Baird 1935–1937

Mrs. Margarette H. Miller 1984–1985

Madam Estelle Hampton 1927–1928

Madam Marjorie Joyner 1937–1939

Mrs. Cleolis Richardson 1985–1996

Mrs. Cordelia Green Johnson 1939–1957

Dr. Wanda J. Nelson 1996–2004 Immediate Past President

Join us at our upcoming convention and trade shows: Exhibit Days: July 23–25 ❖ Renaissance Hotel, 25 Public Square., Cleveland July 21–28, 2007* (*dates subject to change)

National Beauty Culturists’ League ❖ 25 Logan Circle N.W. ❖ Washington, D.C. 20005 ❖ (202) 332-2695 ❖ Fax (202) 332-0940 ❖ www.nbcl.org


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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Contact Humphries at hariwars@ameritch.net

David Humphries is the producer of the Hair Wars U.S. tour that started in Detroit nightclubs in the mid ’80s. Focusing on fantasy hair styles, participating stylists enter the competitions held in 10–12 major metropolitan cities where Humphries takes his tour each year. An extravagantly coiffed and costumed skit with song and dance accompanies the presentation of each style.

or by phone at (313) 534-8318.

Sally Beauty sponsors NBCL scholarship Makeup: a beauty-world specialty By Gerry Patton URBAN CALL WRITER

Sally Beauty Co. has established an annual scholarship endowment to give 10 scholarships of $1,000 each to National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) members who meet scholarship criteria. The goal is to help strengthen the network, further excellence in the profession, and provide opportunities for training in product knowledge and technology. Eligibility To be considered, all applicants must meet the following criteria: ❍ Hold a current and valid license as a cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, braider/hair weaver. ❍ Be a current member and financial supporter of a local, state and national NBCL chapter. Applicant Requirements ❍ Letter of recommendation from a local or state NBCL president. ❍ A notarized document to substantiate your work in the profession for a minimum of two years (letter from beauty/barber school or transcript on official letterhead) or a letter from salon owner/manager. ❍ A typed personal statement of 350 words or more expressing how the scholarship

will assist in strengthening your skills and practice of cosmetology or barbering or your work as a nail technician, esthetician, braider/hair weaver. ❍ All applicants will receive written notification from the scholarship selection committee. ❍ Include other information that may be of importance to the selection committee. ❍ Provide a copy of current professional license. ❍ Provide a photograph of yourself (shoulder up only). Photographs remain in scholarship files and will not be returned to the applicant. ❍ Mail completed application and support materials to National Institute of Cosmetology (NIC), c/o National Beauty Culturists’ League, Inc. 25 Logan Circle NW, Washington, D.C. 20005. ❍ All applications (with support materials attached) must be postmarked no later than April 30, 2006. Selection Procedure ❍ Completed applications will be reviewed by committee members (professional beauty industry educators who are not members of NBCL.) ❍ Scholarships will be awarded at the annual NBCL Convention and Trade Show to be held July 22–29, 2006.

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Women who want the total look will enjoy the services of the makeup artist who can enhance, balance and add color to the face. Betty Mekonnen, a native of Ethiopia, has produced her own DVD (Make-up Your Mind!), a step-by-step guide. Contact Mekonnen at (336) 324-5739. Sam McCrae is a barber stylist and makeup artist. Call McCrae at (615) 397-7893. He and Mekonnen are advanced trainers for Dudley Products Cosmetics and have had their work published in numerous national magazines like Sophisticates Black Hair Styles and Care Guide. Traci King is another talented makeup artist who has worked on movie sets, TV stages and in recording studios, in addition to her work at The Studio in Winston-Salem, N.C., where her shop specializes in hair, makeup artistry and imagery including clothing and color analysis. She is doing the makeup for the 25th anniversary show of Black Entertainment TV (BET). Contact King at (336) 749-2562.

Betty Mekonnen (left) and model

Sam McCrae (left) and model

Traci King (left) and model



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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Showtime series is spin-off of popular Barbershop films URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Yinka, a Nigerian immigrant who’s learnFollowing on the heels of two successful ing the ropes. Anna Brown plays Jen, Calvin’s wife. John Wesley Chatham is movies by the same name, Barbershop, a Isaac, the only white barber in the shop. television adaptation of the MGM movies Leslie Elliard is the local politician, (Barbershop and Barbershop 2: Back in Jimmy. Barry Shabaka Henley is the outBusiness) is airing on Showtime. The spoken, veteran barber 10-episode cable TV Eddie. Toni Trucks plays series begins where the sassy, strong-willed the movie left off, female barber, Terri. Dan with most of the same White is the rough-aroundcharacters and a few the-edges ex-con Romadal. new ones. Much like the original Set in a gradually films, the series delves improving Chicago into the issues facing the neighborhood, the characters in and out of cast of characters is the shop as they experiheaded by Calvin ence the everyday trials (played by Omar and tribulations of life on Gooding), the soul of Chicago’s South Side. a close-knit commuHenley, who plays Eddie, nity who runs the the outspoken barber, a role barbershop he inhermade famous by Cedric the ited from his father. Showtime’s Barbershop series is patEntertainer Joining Gooding is terned after the successful MGM in the film, says “the Gbenga Akinnagbe as movies by the same name.

Photos courtesy of Showtime Corporate Communications

Calvin’s barbershop is open once again with Omar Gooding in the lead role of the neighborhood’s favorite barber.

barbershop is a place where representatives of the social strata are often found — doctors and lawyers getting their hair cut beside blue collar working-class people or the unemployed. It’s the interaction

among them that is valuable. I learned about voting from going to the barbershop. You’d hear all sides of an issue. In some ways, it’s kind of an institute of higher learning.”

John H. Johnson — a multicultural business pioneer By Rose M. Walsh URBAN CALL WRITER

John H. Johnson, founder of Ebony and Jet magazines.

Linda Johnson Rice succeeds her father as head of Johnson Publishing Co.

The founder of the largest black-owned publishing company in the world died Aug. 8, 2005. John H. Johnson, founder of Ebony and Jet magazines, former chairman of Johnson Publishing Co. and Fashion Fair Cosmetics, was born into an impoverished family in Arkansas but grew to become one of the most influential and wealthiest black leaders in America. With Ebony and Jet, he paved the way for other media targeted specifically to AfricanAmericans. Publications like Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles and Care Guide, Black Enterprise, Upscale, Essence, Sister 2 Sister, Homes of Color and Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition follow in the tradition of targeted publishing. His company broke new ground by bringing positive portrayals of blacks into magazines and by encouraging corporations to use black models in advertising aimed at black consumers. “We try to seek out good things, even when everything seems bad,” Johnson said in explaining the purpose of Ebony. “We look for breakthroughs. We look for people who have made it, who have succeeded against the odds, who have proven somehow that long shots do come in.” Johnson was deeply committed to education.

The Ebony Fashion Fair, produced and directed by his wife, Eunice Walker Johnson, (secretarytreasurer of the company) has raised more than $51 million dollars for the United Negro College Fund (UNCF) and other community scholarship programs. Johnson’s daughter, Linda Johnson

Rice, continues on as president and chief executive officer of Johnson Publishing Co. Donations in Johnson’s honor are being accepted by the Howard University’s John H. Johnson School of Communications in Washington, D.C., and UNCF.

John H. Johnson (second from the left) invited manufacturers of minority-owned hair- and beauty-care products to his Palm Springs, Calif., home for an American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI) annual meeting in 1985. They included Cornell McBride Sr. (from left), McBride Research Laboratories; Lafayette Jones, founder of AHBAI; George Johnson, founder of Johnson Products; Comer Cottrell, Pro-Line founder; and Chapman Cannon, American Beauty Products.


URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

By Gerry Patton URBAN CALL WRITER

This issue of Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition marks the launch of What’s New, a column that spotlights new products and line extensions that meet the special hair- and beauty-care needs of people of color. ■ BRASS BUSTERS (Miss Clairol) collection has seven brass-kicking hair-color shades — 30D Flaxen Blond, 32D Moon Haze, 34D Hazy Mist, 36D Moonlit Brown, 37D Iced Brown, 42D Moongold and 46D Sable Brown. Brass-seeking dyes go right to the heart of the problem, fighting warm tones. The product can be used alone or mixed with other Miss Clairol shades. Call (800) 252-4765 or visit www.clairol.com.

■ HEAT CONTROL® (L’ORÉAL® Technique Nature’s Therapy) takes the hazards out of heat with a quartet of treatments created to protect hair from hightemperature styling: Protection Crème (a lightweight leave-in styling crème), Thermal Protect Gel Styler (a non-flaking spray gel), Heat Shield Ironing Mist (a light styling spray) and Moisture Protect Serum (can be used with protection cream or as a treatment at the shampoo bowl with a deep conditioner). Visit www.lorealtechnique.com.

■ PURPLE RAIN (Ampro Industries Inc.) is the name brand of Ampro’s styling gel, gloss spray and styling foam wrap. These styling control maintenance products are vitaminenriched, alcohol-free, and add body and shine to all types of hair — relaxed, natural and color treated. (www.amprogel.com)

■ COLORGEMS (L’ORÉAL® Technique) hair color is available in six new brilliant shades — three Sparkling Ruby Reds and three Warm Amber Browns. It promises color and shine in 20 minutes or less without the long-term commitment of permanent hair color. The product blends up to 50 percent gray. The color technology is formulated with smoothing polymers, shine-enhancing ingredients and a gentle, ammonia-free, low-peroxide formula to enhance natural hair color without drastic change. (www.lorealtechnique.com) TM

■ LET’S JAM (SoftSheen Carson) has designed a line of four products to make styles last in humid conditions while locking out heat damage. Included are Smoothing Balm, for blow drying; Curling Spray, for hot curling; Set & Wrap Lotion, for wet set; and Straightening Cream, for straight styles. (www.softsheen-carson.com)

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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition UNLEASHED (continued from Pg. 1)

By Gerry Patton

The World of Color Beauty Expo, will bring consumers and professionals together on separate days. Latinas, Caribbean-Americans, AfricanAmericans, Asians and Caucasians will share the common denominator of hair. Contact Norma A. Lee, (212) 7502412 or e-mail at nalcopr@aol.com. (See Showtime dates, page 5).

URBAN CALL WRITER

■ The AfricanAmerican community salutes giants of our time who recently passed. Olive Benson was a beauty industry icon and worldrenowned hair-care Olive Benson expert, and recipient of numerous prestigious awards and honors. Blondell Luster, with her late husband, Fred Luster Sr., founder of Luster Products, helped shape the company success. Ernest Joshua founded J.M. Products in Little Rock, Ark. John H. Johnson was the founder of Johnson Publishing Co. (See Our Roots on page 12).

Turner South’s celebrity chef Robin Woods, left, and actress LisaRaye McCoy congratulated Joe Dudley Sr., chief executive officer of Dudley Products, as he received his Trumpet Award.

business conference of the American Health and Beauty Aids (AHBAI) in Las Vegas.

■ Joe Dudley’s co-honorees at the Trumpet Awards were Dennis Archer (former mayor of Detroit and first African-American president of the American Bar Association), Mayor ■ Norma Shirley Franklin of Atlanta and Doneghy Anderson activist and comedian Dick Gregory. is the president of Also receiving awards were singer and Salon Voices actress Beyoncé Knowles; tennis stars Community Venus and Serena Williams; and Connection, a nonprofit organization singer Nancy Wilson. Religious leaders that provides Web honored were Bishop Charles E. Blake technology in Sr. (Church of God in Christ, Los African-American Norma Anderson Angeles); Bishop T.D. Jakes (Potter’s homes and busiHouse, Dallas); Bishop Eddie L. Long nesses, especially hair salons. Salon (New Birth Missionary Baptist Church, Voices Web site at www.SalonVoices.org Lithonia, Ga.); and Bishop Vashti delivers information on financial management, health care, parenting, voter Murphy McKenzie (18th Episcopal District of the registration and litAfrican Methodist eracy. Contact Episcopal (AME) norma@salonvoices.org; phone church, Maryland). (301) 384-2500. ■ A new con■ Essence magacept in trade shows zine’s editorial is being readied for director Susan 2006 by industry pioneer Bernice Taylor addressed Susan Taylor Bernice Calvin Calvin. Her show, the mid-year

Locate a Sally store near you

■ Cornell McBride Sr., founder and president of McBride Research Laboratories and co-founder of M&M Products Co., has penned his memoirs in A CUT ABOVE: How Cornell McBride Made Millions in the Hair Care Biz. McBride is a motivational speaker and columnist for Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles and Care Guide. Use code UC8045 to Cornell McBride get a 15 percent discount on the book ($24.95) by calling (770) 981-8722, ext. 221 or e-mailing mcb2443@aol.com.

VIP certificate

Sally Beauty Co. Inc. is the world’s largest distributor of professional beauty supplies; it serves salon professionals and retail customers. The company has more than 3,000 stores in the U.S., Puerto Rico, United Kingdom, Canada, Germany, Mexico and Japan. For further information, visit www.sallybeauty.com or call (800) ASK-SALLY for store location information.

■ Toni Love has established the only advanced training center for cosmetologists in the state of Alabama. Toni Love’s Training Center specializes in Toni Love small classes with individualized training. Love is the author of The World of Wigs, Weaves and Extensions and Tips to Passing the Cosmetology Stateboard Exam. To contact Love, call (205) 371-8950 or see www.toni love.com for more information.

seminars, regional and state classes and workshops for professionals on how to apply color products properly. Call (312) 263-1037 for more information. Some like to go for a dramatic change, and that is possible with the new products that are able to remove many layers of a dark color in one application and then deposit a much lighter, even blond color. Others use color to make a gradual change. Pat Grant Williams, a professional stylist and technical and artistic director for Colomer USA’s Multicultural Division, recommends that women lighten their hair and then follow up with blond highlights. Whatever the decision — a quick dramatic change or a gradual move to a new color, there is no Illustrator: Nancy King Chairman of Nancy’s Babies substitute for conNational Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) ditioning and maintenance. “Whatever process you use, be sure to condition the hair weekly to fortify it,” says Philadelphia dermatologist Susan Taylor, who directs the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke’s Roosevelt Hospital Center in New York City. Color can serve other functions. The “40-something” woman who doesn’t want the gray hair to show yet uses it for gray coverage, says Jacqueline Tarrant, senior educational manager at SoftSheen/Carson. “These women are big users of color, and their salon visits average six times more per year than the under-35 group who visit the salon on average of three times a year for color.” Finally, color can serve as an accent, says Benia Davis. “We are doing triangles and diagonals of color. We are varying one color on the same strand. We are slicing in color to create definition and illusion. We are using color to enhance the line of the hair cut.”

FREE packette a $1.29 value Cut out and present this certificate to your nearest Sally Beauty Supply store to receive your free packette. SKU # 444852 Valid thru 3/31/06 Limit one per customer. Void if reproduced. Not valid with any other Sally offers. Good only in Sally Beauty Supply stores.




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