COME ✫ Join Us We stand on the dawn of a new day in the history of the National Dr. Wanda Beauty Nelson Culturists’ NBCL League President (NBCL). Surely the coming years ring aloud with the offspring of our current vision. Yet we stand now on solid ground only because of the vision and efforts of many pioneers who came before us. Through prayer, they took the hand of God and ventured forth through dark days and hard times. The result has been a proud heritage that firmly plants our feet in the future. It has been 85 years since NBCL was established in 1919 — a long way from the days when pioneers Annie Malone
Stylists✫
to the
The POWER of
✫ Welcome
PROFESSIONALS From the
Stars
Kathryn Mobley EXCLUSIVE TO URBAN CALL
It could be said that behind every successful celebrity is a successful stylist. California celebrity stylists Sterfon Deming and Andrea Jackson know the pressures of creating the right look for the camera. Their clients are the stars of Beauty Shop, (November, 2004) an MGM movie starring Queen Latifah, Alfre Woodard, Andie MacDowell, Djimon Hounsou, Alicia Silverstone, Mena Suvari, Bryce Wilson, Golden Brooks, Keshia Knight Pulliam and Kevin Bacon. This comedy spins around Latifah’s character, Gina, a stylist in a highend Atlanta salon, owned by Kevin Bacon’s character, Jorge. After a series of twists, Gina opens her own salon, employs several vibrant stylists (Golden Brooks, Alfre Woodard,
Sheri Shepard, Keshia Knight Pulliam) and helps a former shampoo girl, played by Silverstone, blossom into a stylist. Amidst suds, colors and stunning styles, a love interest sparks between Gina and a repair man played by Hounsou. “Sheri Shepard plays as a stylist whose hair color coordinates with her different outfits,” explains Andrea Jackson, first key hair. “So I’ve got to make each new color work for the actress, the director and the camera.” Jackson’s movie and television credits include; The Italian Job, Soul Plane, Planet of the Apes, All of Us, Love and Basketball, The Steve Harvey Show, Girl Friends, and The Parkers.
✫
See STYLISTS Pg. 4 Stylists keep Queen Latifah, star of Beauty Shop, and onscreen daughter (Paige Hurd) ready for the camera.
Photo courtesy of MGM Pictures
Publisher Welcome to the second issue of Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop edition. In our mission to support and proLafayette mote the beauty Jones industry, we are Publisher pleased to present this edition with more coverage and more exciting photos of the people and places who energize the world of the health and beauty care industry. Our expanded distribution includes members of Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi’s) beauty and barber networks and those attending beauty shows across the country. For our readers — many of whom are multicultural salon professionals and their customers — we put together expanded
See PUBLISHER Pg. 2
See NBCL Pg. 17
Inside... 6
Bronner Brothers
10
Beauty Watch
Beauty Watch
15
Man’s World
10
Urban Call Briefs
17
Our Roots
19
For our online edition visit www.smsibeautynetwork.com
URBAN CALL 4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225 Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 Tel. (336) 759-7477 FAX: (336) 759-7212 E-mail: urbancall@smsi-net.com
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STATE PRESIDENTS
NBCL NATIONAL OFFICERS
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
Dr. Wanda Nelson, President, MO Dr. Katie B. Catalon, Vice President, SC Dr. Velma Crayton, Vice President, AL Dr. Vienna L. Clarke, Vice President, BAH Dr. Rosalind Coffey, Vice President, MI Dr. Barbara H. Phillips, Secretary, TX Betty Thomas, Asst. Secretary, LA Dr. Elsie Hardin, Asst. Secretary, OH Dr. Ida B. Williams, Treasurer, MO Dr. Ruth Swint, Chairman of Finance, GA Dr. Gladys Robinson, Chaplain, PA Dr. Lola Conwell, Asst. Chaplain, PA Dr. Barbara Wardlow, Asst. Chaplain, NC Dr. Vernice Marks Waters, Historian, MI Dr. Dorothy Johnson, Asst. Historian, KY Lessie L. Gore, Parliamentarian, SC
ALABAMA
MISSOURI
Dr. Clara Mitchell
Dr. Leroy Noah
ARKANSAS Dr. Brenda Gray
CAlIFORNIA Dr. Gerlene Donnell
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA Mozelle Milton Nathaniel Baker
FLORIDA Dr. Bertha Sneed
GEORGIA Dr. Ruth Swint
ILLINOIS
Dr. Elsie Cobb
NEW YORK
NORTH CAROLINA Carol Lyles
OHIO OKLAHOMA
Dr. Vessia Barnett
Dr. Marcella Williams
KENTUCKY LOUISIANA Dr. Bennie J. Lewis
MARYLAND Dr. Hattie SmithShannon
MICHIGAN Dr. Pat Watkins
MINNESOTA
Vol. 1 Issue 2 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225 ❍ Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 www.segmentedmarketing.com FAX: (336) 759-7212 ❍ PHONE: (336) 759-7477
Designer: Renée Canada Writer: Kathryn Mobley
PENNSYLVANIA Dr. Gladys H. Robinson
SOUTH CAROLINA Dr. Pearl B. Clark
TENNESSEE Sadie Anderson
TEXAS Dr. Barbara Phillips
VIRGINIA
Dr. Zakiyyah Azeez
Dr. Regina Lundy
MISSISSIPPI
WASHINGTON
Dr. Florine Nails
Brenda M. Carrington
AFRICA
INDIA
Gloria Wamanka
Madhumita Patwary
BAHAMAS
JAPAN
Dr. Zelrona Mackey
Eve Williams
CANADA
VIRGIN ISLANDS
Pauline E. Patton
Olivine Leerdam Charlotte Amalie
ENGLAND Dr. Eve Crew
coverage. Writer Kathryn Mobley gets the scoop on movie-industry stylists in Stylists to the Stars. Seven new departments include Show Time — continued coverage of hair and beauty care shows across the United States. Beauty Watch reports on trends including a study done by SMSi on salon customer music preferences. In Giving Back, we focus on community efforts such as the SallyCares program, which supplies personal care assistance and guidance to residents of 50 domestic abuse shelters nationwide. Healthy Living — Every Day! addresses the
health challenges that disproportionately affect people of color. Linking Pros features a message from Dr. Wanda Nelson, president of the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL), an organization of 8,000 beauty-industry professionals who serve the multicultural customer. In Our Roots, we explore the history and legacies of the hair and beauty industry. Man’s World focuses on the male customer who shows great versatility in his choice of hairstyles. We hope you enjoy this second issue and reply to the survey on page 20. There you will discover how to get free product samples through the SMSi Beauty Network and how to join the great professionals of NBCL.
Dr. Susie HookWilliams
INDIANA
Dr. Barbara Watts
L’Oréal’s Mizani division was well represented at the American Beauty Association’s Beauty Ball. Pictured above are Dave Ray, Veronique Morrison, Rob Willis, Alicia Covington, Clarisa Wilson, Barbara Morgan, Michael James, Elsie Cardell and Jody Samuels were at the charity event which raised money for the Make a Wish Foundation.
NEW MEXICO
Dr. Lee Annie Bonner
Jill Coleman
PUBLISHER (continued from Pg. 1)
Dr. Rose Davis-Louis
Dr. Christine Smith
KANSAS
INTERNATIONAL AFFILIATES
NEW JERSEY
AMERICAN BEAUTY ASSOCIATION’S BEAUTY BALL
WEST INDIES Ardyce K. Bolden
SMSi partners Lafayette Jones (from left), Sandra Miller Jones and Joseph Rodney Lawrence Publishers: Lafayette Jones, Sandra Miller Jones Associate Publisher: Joseph Lawrence Director of Client Services: Gerry Patton
Photographers: Keith Cephus, Norfolk, Va. Michael Cunningham, Winston-Salem, N.C. Keif Savage, Los Angeles Dorothy Lewis, Goldsboro, N.C. Thelmon Barrett, Los Angeles Beauty Consultant: Jacqueline Cash, Jaquelin First Impressions Director of Operations: Constance Harris Database Management and Circulation Manager: Tahnya Bowser Operations Manager: Suvondra Montgomery
Executive Editor: Alan Cronk
Warehouse and Shipping Manager: Jordan Lash
Editorial Director: Rose Walsh
Collation Manager: Julie Hill
Production Manager: Myra Wright
Financial Services: Roslyn Hickman
For information on subscribing to this publication contact Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop edition at 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425. ©2004 Segmented Marketing Services, Inc., 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425. Urban Call is published by SMSi as part of a strategic alliance with Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi) and Piedmont Publishing, a Media General company. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any material in this publication without the written permission of SMSi is expressly prohibited. Publishers reserve the right to accept or reject all advertising matter. SMSi, founded in 1978, is a Winston-Salem, N.C. minority-owned national marketing, promotion and publishing company that specializes in helping major companies and organizations better serve ethnic customers. This publication is distributed to 100,000 beauty salon and barber professionals and their clients in the SMSi Beauty Salon and Barbershop Networks, through National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) national officers, state presidents and chapter leaders, as well as to attendees of leading ethnic beauty trade shows. SMSi distributes millions of free product samples, publications and consumer offers through its national networks of African-American and Hispanic churches, beauty salons, barbershops, entertainment venues and health care networks.
SallyCares serves shelter clients URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
When stylists finish their work on behalf of SallyCares,® the clients of Spouse Abuse Inc. have new looks for their hair and gift bags full of personal care products from Sally Beauty Supply. L’Oréal Professional and Ion Professional Products have partnered with Sally in providing makeovers. “I was impressed with the difference that just a haircut and color make in a woman’s outlook on life,” noted Carol Rasheed, owner of Innervision Salon and Day Spa at the Renaissance Orlando Resort at Sea World in Florida. “I wanted to help bring this wonderful service to my own community in Orlando. We are all thrilled to be working with Sally Beauty on this outreach project.” The Orlando resort provided refreshments and conducted a clothing drive among the associates for the women and their children. Women who have benefited from SallyCares are
See SALLYCARES Pg. 8
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
sessions usually include a perm and/or a semi-color. “When doing Dottie, I focus on giving her hair volume and luster because of the intense lights she’s under on stage and during photo shoots,” explains Merriweather. Dottie, whose CDs include Churchin’ With Dottie and The Water I Give, tours with Luther Barnes and Lexi (former back-up singer for Fred Hammond). With 37 years in the business, Merriweather’s celebrity clientele includes: Mayor Rhine McLin of Dayton and several New York in-house models including Eve Peters and Christina of London. He says he closely studies a client’s face and body structure before styling them. “Not everyone can wear the same style. You have to be sensitive to what’s going to compliment your client if you’re going to make them look good.” Celebrity stylist Julia Smith, Julia’s Studio East Salon in Chicago, Ill. (www.juliasalon.com), says stylists can make celebrities look younger with the “right” color. “I use soft highlights close to their natural color to give their hair more sheen,” explains Smith. “It creates a youthful, lustrous look.” A member of the National Beauty Culturalists’ League (NBCL), Smith also says she has a self-sufficient private room in her salon for her celebrity clients such as comedian and actor Bernie Mac. Still, she says, many Stylist Matthew Merriweather prepares Dottie enjoy hanging out with other customers. “Bernie loves Peoples’ hair for cover shots for CDs such as Churchin’ With Dottie. talking to everyone, and we have a real good time.” Twenty-eight years in the business have led many stars into Smith’s skillful hands, including singers and actresses STYLISTS such as Vanessa Williams and Shirley Bassett, actor Carl (continued from Pg. 1) Wright and blues singer Tyrone Davis. Another NBCL member, Veronica Forbes of Veronica Jackson is part of the celebrity stylist team assembled Beautyrama in Harlem, is a weave specialist. “I’ve used an by Sterfon Deming, director of the hair department for extra long weave on model Naomi Simms, about 18 inches Beauty Shop. “I picked the best, including Debra Brown, pulled into a pony tail, because she loves long hair that who does Oprah, and Terrell Simon, because the job flows.” Forbes says celebrity clients require a lot of time. requires speed and accuracy. If an actor’s late, instead of having 30 minutes to do them, you may have only 10 min- “The money is good, but it can be stressful because celebriutes. But you’ve still ties can be demanding or some cancel appointments with little notice or don’t show up at all.” Forbes also designs got to achieve the weaves for cancer patients and others struggling with hair “If an actor’s late, right look for the loss. “When they sit in my chair, they’re depressed and scene.” Deming says instead of having 30 But when they walk out, they’re smiling, or his crew also goes on minutes to do them, you set to make sure the embarrassed. they call and tell me the compliments people give them,” may have only 10 minexplains Forbes. “My weaves help restore their dignity, and actors’ hair stays in utes. But you’ve still got place during and that’s fun.” In her 30 years of styling, Forbes’ celebrity between shoots. In client list includes actress and singer Dee Dee Bridgewater, to achieve the right look addition to supervis- New York FOX news anchor Lynn Brown and presidential for the scene.” ing 3–9 stylists, candidate, the Rev. Al Sharpton. Sterfon Deming Deming consults on Hair Department Director the beauty products Beauty Shop used for props in the www.mgm.com movie. His movie credits include: Boyz By Kathryn Mobley ’N the Hood, White Men Can’t Jump, Piano Lesson and Like URBAN CALL WRITER Mike, in which he wrote and performed the part of a Santa Cruz uses a combinapotential adoptive parent for Bow Wow. tion of moisturizing treatments Thirteen-year veteran stylist Kimberly Kimble, owner and mild relaxers to tame natuof Epiphany Hair Studio in West Hollywood, Calif., rally tight curls at Salon Santa (www.kimblehaircare.com) is traveling with singer Beyoncé Cruz in Manhattan. Cruz explains as she films a new Pink Panther movie in New York and curly hair is naturally dry and Paris. Long, sexy, blond hair is key to her image. When needs leave-in conditioner. Her designing the singer’s hair, Kimble says she considers the clients include New York radio latest fashions, public appearances and attire needed for personality Wendy Williams and each event. “She likes to shake her hair a lot, so I make it actors Rosie Perez, Roger look good when she throws it.” Tennis star Serena Williams, Guenivere Smith and Lauren Santa Cruz singer Kelly Rowland, and actors Gabrielle Union and Velez (New York Undercover, HBO Anthony Anderson are just some of the celebrities who cable series, OZ) “Velez likes sporting the latest hip credit Kimble for their fabulous look when it counts most — styles, but her hair is thick and naturally curly with in front of the camera and audience. lots of body. To get the look she wants, I relax and Famed gospel singer Dottie Peoples travels hundreds of then moisturize her hair to slick it down,” Cruz miles from Atlanta to Dayton, Ohio, every three months to explains. “In between, I give her protein treatments sit in Matthew Merriweather’s chair. Merriweather owns Mr. to restore strength and luster to her hair.” Velez Matthew’s Hair Design Studio & Weev Center in Dayton and popped into Cruz’ salon for a new ’do that turned began styling Peoples’ hair 20 years ago when he owned two shops in Atlanta. He says these high-maintenance heads at the season finale party of OZ.
Santa Cruz styles Latina curls
As a stylist, Fletcher encourages customers to live a healthful lifestyle.
A Cut Above By Kathryn Mobley URBAN CALL WRITER
Known for his award-winning cuts, Barry Fletcher is among the Who’s Who of celebrity stylists. Founder of Barry Fletcher Enterprises, this 20-year veteran specializes in razor cutting, a technique that softens the ends of the hair so strands merge together more. He says this technique makes the hair look good whether worn straight or curled. Fletcher has created head-turning looks for celebrities such as actresses Halle Berry and Eartha Kitt, singers Mary J. Blige, Tina Turner, Prince and Chaka Khan; poet Maya Angelou; champion boxer Sugar Ray Leonard; comedian Eddie Murphy; and Somalianborn model, Iman. Fletcher is a strong proponent of hair care and education. “Stylists need to educate their clients that everything in your life affects your hair. Pollution, what you eat, stress, sleep depravation, your exercise routine, your job environment ... all determine the health of your hair.” Fletcher says about 80 percent of African-American women have dry hair because of exposure to extreme life elements and the use of chemical hair treatments such as colors and relaxers. He encourages stylists to apply moisturizing treatments to their clients. “We need to get back to the some of the old techniques like brushing hair, scratching up dead skin and massaging the scalp — these all help stimulate blood circulation and will speed hair growth.” Fletcher has studied trichology, the science of hair and hair diseases, and is the author of two books: Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair, which covers hair loss prevention, holistic treatments, chemical destruction, natural haircare and growth remedies. Hair Is Sexual focuses on the powerful symbolism of hair. The National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) presented Fletcher with an honorary doctorate degree for his innovative educational methods and dedication to the industry. Fletcher sold his Washington, D.C., salon, Avant Garde Hair Gallery, and travels the country teaching hair care and his unique cutting techniques. For information on Barry Fletcher go to www.barryfletcher.com.
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
2004 DESIGNER TOUCH HEAT TOUR: RELOADED
Keith Cephus
gets things cooking in Baltimore A sultry “Matrix movie-style” model added some black leather sizzle to the runway at the opening show of the 2004 Designer Touch Heat Tour: Reloaded in Baltimore. This year’s second annual tour kicked things off in grand style at the highly anticipated event, inaugurating a six-city schedule featuring the Designer Touch International Style Team that will conclude just as hotly as it began — with a finale in Nassau, Bahamas in October. Luster Pruducts is the leading African-American owned manufacturer of haircare products for people of African descent worldwide. Its major brands include PCJ for girls, Pink Oil Moisturizer for women, S-Curl for men and boys, and Designer Touch, the product line for professional stylists. For more information on the 2004 Heat Tour, visit www.designertouch.com.
Images by Keith Cephus, award-winning photographer and image consultant. For a photo shoot, call Cephus at (757) 430-2169. You may also view his work online at www.keithcephus.com. Hair by Shanna Thomas
Hair by Shanna Thomas
Hair by Markita Harris
Hair by Lisa McCray
Hair by Cathy Shavers
Hair by Markita Harris
Hair by Shirley Gordon
Hair by Cathy Shavers
Hair by Markita Harris
Hair by Shirley Gordon
Hair by Cathy Shavers
August 2004
nzulli Michael H. Re CEO President and y, Inc. an mp Co ty au Sally Be
ners, Industry Part Dear Beauty turers and any manufac m e th to ks iversary al than the 85th Ann nd my person ng te ti ex ri to rw t de an un w I ed us in book. This ines that join ague history az Le ag s’ m st ri ty tu au ul be this historic eauty C the legacy of e National B ve th er of es pr on d ti an di E celebrate ve book will comprehensi 2004. to from 1919 y organization ational Beaut support the N to t en m it an m eric ng com of African-Am has an on-goi large network e Sally Beauty th ly d ar an ye a L) s C uty fund ague (NB ents. Sally Bea Culturists’ Le es the edut pr re or it pp su at sionals th e NBCL, to th by d de beauty profes ar is aw L receive an larship, which rs of the NBC be em m l al , $10,000 scho als. And over 2,000 ty profession made at our s se ha rc pu cation of beau ent on ount of 5 perc additional disc y. tr the coun stores across Care Guide r Styles and ai H ck la B ’s ticate Elements, you to Sophis chnique, Silk Te al ré O L’ r, Again, thank -Culve keting lpro, Alberto gmented Mar Salon and Se magazine, Nai an the publiic er ng ti m A or , d ’N Hot all, for supp C an rb U Proclaim, Gol of hers ican history. (SMSi), publis African-Amer Services, Inc. of rd co re t importan cation of this s, Warm regard
enzulli Michael H. R d an t Presiden ve Officer Chief Executi c. Company, In Sally Beauty
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
SALLYCARES (continued from Pg. 2) overwhelmed by the generosity of these professionals. One shelter services manager noted that when battered spouses spend time on themselves in a supportive atmosphere, their self-esteem is renewed. The SallyCares program was established in 1996 by Sally executive Ernie McCraw. He recognized the relationship between looking good and healthy self-esteem and worked to establish the SallyCares Shelter Program for those affected by domestic violence. It currently supplies beauty products donated by leading manufacturers to more than 50 shelters nationally. In addition, volunteer stylists join Sally in staging a number of events for shelters each year. For more information, contact Jan Roberts at Sally, (940) 898-7849.
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Cathy Pringle (from left) vice president of marketing for Sally Beauty Co.; Lori Babb, public relations manager for Renaissance Orlando Resort; and Renée Reynolds, director of merchandising at Sally Beauty, gathered at a SallyCares event. Carol Rasheed, owner of Inner Vision Salon and Dayspa, volunteered her services for clients of a women’s shelter in Florida. Volunteers from L’Oréal include: Mark Garrison (front, from left) and Sally Beauty’s Ernie McCraw. Back, from left: Holly Rush, vice president professional field force, L’Oréal Classic Salon Products; Elain Izzo; JoAnn Stills; Jennie Carrington; Edita Robertson; and Phyllis Gafric.
L’Oréal Institute studies ethnic skin, hair URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
The L’Oréal Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research was established on Chicago’s South Side.
The L’Oréal Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research on the South Side of Chicago is the first of its kind to focus specifically on the ethnic market, reported Drug Store News. “While much of the lab’s efforts will focus on skin and hair care needs of people of African descent, research will expand to cover the Asian, Hispanic and Caucasian populations,” noted the trade magazine. Dr. Victoria Holloway is director of the institute and assistant vice president of research and development for L’Oréal USA. She recruited a team of scientists and oversaw the multimillion dollar renovation of the six-story building, which houses the 60,000 square foot facility. It includes a research lab, a product development center, focus group room and a hair salon. Holloway received a Women of Color in Health, Science and Technology award from Baltimore’s Career
Communications Group. She is a graduate of Harvard University; Yale University School of Medicine, and Johns Hopkins School of Hygiene and Public Health. In partnership with Howard University in Washington, D.C., Holloway organized the first International Symposium on Ethnic Hair and Skin. Nearly 200 doctors, researchers and scientists from the United States and countries such as Brazil and France traveled to a Chicago seminar to discuss the development, safety and efficacy of ethnic hair products on the structure and function of ethnic skin. “Dr. Holloway’s tremendous achievements in her field and commitment to the African-American community are commendable. We are proud that she is part of our remarkable R & D team and director of our progressive research institute,” said Jean-Paul Agon, president and CEO of L’Oréal USA. “Our company is committed to supporting dedicated scientists like Dr. Holloway and continues to be a champion of women around the world.”
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
Gospel tops for beauty, barber clients What do cusJoseph Rodney tomers like to lisLawrence ten to when they Executive go for hair servVice President ices? According Segmented to a survey by Marketing Services Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi), gospel music rocks the top of the chart with 65 percent selecting it as their favorite background sound. Next in line— rhythm & blues (51 percent) followed by jazz at 48 percent. Number four was classical music (19 percent) followed by reggae, rap and others. “Music is an integral part of the ambience in African-American beauty salons, and most
SOPHISTICATES CELEBRATES 20TH ANNIVERSARY
salons are equipped with the means with which to play the music they like,” noted Joseph Rodney Lawrence, executive vice president of SMSi. Many of the participating salons use more than one device as the source for their music. These included radio (72 percent), cassette players (56 percent) and compact discs (54 percent). The SMSi Beauty Salon Network Survey included 1,300 African-American respondents among beauty salon managers.
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: McBride Research Laboratories’ Lamesha Estelle (from left), Sholanda McBride Armstrong, Eric McBride, SBH’s Beverly Coley-Morris and McBride Research Laboratories’ Cornell McBride Jr. attended the Atlanta celebration.
The Hour Has Come is available at Jehovah Shammah Productions, 2800 E. Sprague St., Winston-Salem, NC 27107; or at www.uncompromisingword.org.
What type of music do you play in your salon? Gospel Rhythm & Blues Jazz Classical Reggae Rap Other Country
SBH models Jennifer Williams (from left), Rachel Hebert and Jennifer O’Neil are sitting pretty in Chicago.
65% 51% 48% 19% 11% 10% 8% 5%
Gloria Gaynor performs her hit I Will Survive for party guests in Chicago. The Parkers’ TV star Dorien Wilson strikes a red-carpet pose in Chicago. SBH’s James Spurlock (from left), SMSi’s Lafayette Jones, and Marvin Young and Scott Emery from Farouk Systems USA pose in Atlanta.
How do you play music in your salon? Radio 72% Cassette Player 56% Compact Disc 54% Digital Video Disc 2% Other 2% Source: Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi)
Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles and Care Guide celebrates 20th anniversary with celebrations in Chicago and Atlanta.
Photos by Neal Harris/Worldwide Service & Photography, Chip Foust and Angie Ravenell
Gospel music such as The Hour Has Come and Now Is by Anthony Jones and the Uncompromising Word Fellowship Mass Choir is a favorite of beauty and barber clients.
Healthy Living — Every Day! addresses health gap among African-Americans URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
Healthy Living — Every Day! (HLED) is a community based health initiative created by Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi®) to serve AfricanAmerican communities where great health disparities exist. Dr. Wanda Nelson, president of the National Beauty Culturists’ League, is on the HLED advisory board. “One of our goals at NBCL is to motivate beauty professionals and their clients to take better care of their health,” she noted. Other advisory board members include
community leaders, elected officials, restaurant owners, physicians, nurses, hospital administrators, health officials and other medical professionals who work with ethnically diverse populations. The American Heart Association and The Association of Black Cardiologists took part in the outreach. Mrs. Dash seasoning alterative, Mazola Oil and St. Joseph’s 81mg low dose Aspirin sponsored the nationwide community initiatives. During Black History Month, 300 opinion leaders sampled food made with
Mrs. Dash seasoning alternative as community leaders addressed hypertension at three luncheon forums in AfricanAmerican owned restaurants in Chicago and Winston-Salem, N.C. At 67 luncheon events catered by African-American chefs, hot spaghetti seasoned with Mrs. Dash was served to African-American consumers. Four thousand consumers tasted Mrs. Dash seasoned food at selected ethnic restaurants. Mazola, in conjunction with the American Heart Association, sponsored a heart-healthy luncheon at Pearl’s
Place in Chicago’s black Bronzeville art district. In Atlanta, 5,000 AfricanAmericans participated in the Metro Atlanta American Heart Walk and received samples and literature about St. Joseph’s low dose — 81mg. Aspirin. Surveys indicated that HLED participants planned to use the health-enhancing products: 91 percent — Mrs. Dash luncheon; 84 percent — Mrs. Dash wet sampling; 60 percent — Mrs. Dash dry sampling; 85 percent — St. Joseph’s Aspirin-sponsored heart walk; 80 percent — Mazola luncheon. See related story on page 22.
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
The B EAT goes O N
2004–05 Calendar*
Hair Wars
Black Gold Show
2004 July 31–Aug. 1
Aug. 14–16
URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
Richard Bonner is the executive producer of the Ideal Black Gold Trade Show, the largest beauty and barber trade show for people of color on the West Coast. The show has been in existence since 1982 with its focus on the Richard Bonner motivation of professionals through education, presentations and demonstrations.
Aug. 14–16
Romero on Texture Control URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
Fernando Romero, owner of Bio Ionic, an expert on hair clients with Latin American, African, Asian and European backgrounds, demonstrated texture control at Cosmoprof North America held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Fernando Romero Vegas.
Aug. 22
Aug. 22–23
National Beauty Culturists’ League Inc. 85th Annual National Convention Institute and Trade Show Sheraton Atlanta Hotel Atlanta, Ga. (202) 332-2695 Dr. Wanda Nelson, President Registration forms available at any Sally Beauty Supply. www.nbcl.org Bronner Brothers Hair Show Georgia World Congress Center Atlanta, Ga. Janet Wallace, Show Manager (800) 547-SHOW (7469) ext. 273 or 289. Fax your completed forms to (404) 681-9072. www.bronnerbros.com Registration forms are available at any Sally Beauty Supply.
Aug. 24–25
Sept. 11–14
Premiere Show Group Orlando, Fla. (800) 335-7469 or (407) 265-3131 www.premiereshows .com
Cosmoprof Cosmetica Junho Expo Center San Paulo, Brazil (11) 3291-9111 www.looksshow.tv
Sept. 26–28
BeautyFusion New York 2004 Jacob Javits Convention Center New York, N.Y. (888) 561-8822 (Ext. 1) (602) 569-9039 www.ttcbevents.com
Oct. 10–11
International Hair & Nail Show Meadowlands Expo Center Secaucus, N.J. Rudy Armstrong, Executive Director (800) 676-SHOW www.IHShow.com
Hair Wars Marriott-BWI Airport Baltimore, Md. David Humphries (313) 534-8318 hairwars@ameritech.net Southern Salon and Barber Tournament of Champions Memphis, Tenn. Al Carter (901) 794-0166 www.midsouthbeauty alliance.com
American Health & Beauty Aids (AHBAI) Mid-Year Business Conference The Paris Hotel Las Vegas, Nev. Geri Jones, Executive Director (312) 321-6824 www.proudlady.org
Hair Wars
Oct 10–11
Mid America Beauty Classic Columbus, Ohio (800) 335-7469 or (407) 265-3131 www.premiereshows.com
Nov. 7–8
Ideal Black Gold Trade Show Hollywood Park Pavilion Inglewood, Calif. Richard Bonner, President (310) 603-0731
Nov. 7
Philadelphia Beauty Showcase National Historical Museum Hall of Fame and Awards Banquet City Line Avenue Holiday Inn Philadelphia, Pa. Paul Randleman, President (215) 474-7533
Nov. 14
Golden Scissors Washington, D.C. Washington D.C. Convention Center Glynn Jackson, Executive Producer (202) 452-7445 www.goldenscissors awards.com
Nov. 14
Hair Wars Radisson LA Airport Los Angeles, Calif. David Humphries (313) 534-8318 hairwars@ameritech.net
2005 Jan. 31– Beauty Expo Feb. 1 Trade Show Hilton Hotel Las Vegas, Nev. Ann Park, Marketing Director (314) 454-1112 www.beautyexpousa. com
▼
By Julie Hill URBAN CALL WRITER
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
▼
Feb. 5–7
Feb. 6–7
International Salon & Spa Expo (ISSE) Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, Calif. (800) 468-2274 www.oneroof.org/isse_ shows/index2old.html Innovations Salon & Spa Expo* The Anaheim Convention Center Anaheim, Calif. (888) 561-8822 (602) 569-9039
www.bronnerbros.com Registration forms are available at any Sally Beauty Supply. April 16–18 March 19–21
April 3–4
*show name changing
www.ttcbevents.com Feb. 19–21
Bronner Brothers MidWinter Hair Show Atlanta, Ga. Janet Wallace, Show Manager (800) 547-SHOW (7469) ext. 273 or 289. Fax your completed forms to (404) 681-9072.
(800) 335-7469 or (407) 265-3131 www.premiereshows.com
April 3–4
Proud Lady Beauty Show Hyatt Regency Chicago, Ill. Geri Jones, Executive Director (312) 321-6824 E-mail: ahbai@sba.com www.proudlady.org International Salon Expo Washington State Convention & Trade Center Seattle, Wash. (888) 561-8822 (602) 569-9039 www.ttcbevents.com/ internationalsalonexpo Premiere Birmingham 2005 Birmingham, Ala.
April 17–19
Mid-South Educational Empowerment & Trade Show Memphis Cook Convention Center Memphis, Tenn. Al Carter (866) 886-SHOW or (901) 794-0166 International Beauty Show (IBS) New York Jacob Javits Convention Center New York, N.Y. (800) 424-2024 or (218) 723-9130 www.ibsnewyork.com
April 30–May 2 Bronner Brothers Hair Show Baltimore Civic Center Baltimore, Md. Janet Wallace,
Show Manager (800) 547-SHOW (7469) ext. 273 or 289. Fax your completed forms to (404) 681-9072. www.bronnerbros.com Registration forms are available at any Sally Beauty Supply. May 22–23
International Hair & Nail Show 2005 Meadowlands Expo Center Secaucus, N.J. Rudy Armstrong, Executive Producer (800) 676-SHOW www.IHShow.com
Aug. 20–22
Bronner Brothers Summer Hair Show Atlanta, Ga Janet Wallace, Show Manager www.bronnerbros.com
* Shows are subject to change; check Web sites or call to confirm dates.
BRONNER BROTHERS: Where business is all in the family By Gerry Patton URBAN CALL WRITER
The Bronner Brothers Summer Hair Show, planned for Aug. 14–16 at the Georgia World Congress Center, is just one of the many endeavors of the entrepreneurial family-owned Bronner Brothers. The company was founded in 1947 by Dr. Nathaniel H. Bronner Sr. and his brother, Arthur E. Bronner Sr. Today, Bronner Bros. is headed by the second generation with Bernard Bronner (one of the six sons of Nathaniel and his wife, Robbie) at the helm. He is president and CEO. The Bronner Bros. Enterprise includes Bronner Bros.
Beauty Products (BB, African Royale and Nu Expressions) UPSCALE magazine, Cottonwood Hot Springs Spa and Motel in Alabama, Bronner Bros. International Beauty and Trade Shows, The Word of Faith Family Worship Center and The Ark of Salvation Worship Center, and a film company. The company employs more than 300 fulland part-time staff members, operates two manufacturing facilities, one shipping facility, two beauty stores, one hair-weaving studio and a public relations office. The corporate headquarters is in Marietta, Ga. The hair show in Atlanta will feature classes on weaves and wigs. Coloring, barbering and business are
The Bronner Brothers Hair Shows feature the latest in fashion and in hair and beauty care.
among those planned. A fashion show includes the newest looks for men, women and children. Evening entertainment serves up a slate of the hottest young comedians in the industry: From Black Entertainment Television’s (BET) comic view will be Nard Holston, Preacher Man and Prescott Gilliam. Rod “Rodman” Thompson from Def Comedy Jam will also be featured along with JJ, who recently starred in The Johnson Family Vacation. A Fabulous Fashions show is planned for Sunday, Aug. 15. For more information, contact Janet Wallace, show manager, at (800) 547-7469.
In partnership with Mazola Oils
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
Men of daytime TV tune into good looks By Kathryn Mobley URBAN CALL WRITER
The African-American men of daytime soaps turn heads and push the envelope with their dynamic and eye-catching hairstyles. Actor Timothy D. Stickney’s hair makes an impressive statement. Stickney plays the menacing role of RJ Gannon on One Life to Live (ABC). His gorgeous long, black locks accentuate his captivating face — creating a perfectly disarming image. Whether pulled back or hanging freely, Stickney’s locks create a distinctive look with his highfashion suits — a sophisticated combination of African heritage with colonial capitalism. His winning portrayal of RJ earned him the 2000 Soap Opera Award for Outstanding Villain. Loose hanging braids enhance
Michael B. Jordan, All My Children — ABC
actor Michael B. Jordan’s portrayal of troubled teen Reggie Porter on All My Children (ABC). Their freedom plays well as his character repeatedly “jumps from the pot into the fire” as he attempts to protect the people for whom he cares. Jordan joined the ABC soap in 2003. Actor Keith Hamilton Cobb’s changing hair styles add an edgy air to his character, Damon Porter on The Young & the Restless (CBS). A wellgroomed mustache and goatee flatter his face, while neatly pulled-back locks complete the appealing image of his character, known for Timothy D. Stickney, being passionately deterOne Life to Live — ABC mined. Cobb keeps the look elegant with distinctively trimmed facial hair. Previously, he starred as Noah Keefer on All My Children (ABC). Cobb is the recipient of two Soap Digest awards and two NAACP Image Award nominations for Keith Hamilton Cobb, Outstanding Actor in a Young & the Restless — CBS Daytime Drama Series.
Basketball players — center court stylin’ URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
Whether they shave their heads, braid their hair, get a clipper cut or go full-out ’fro, African-American athletes go to great lengths to look good. During his winning season with the National Basketball Association champion Detroit Pistons, basketball player Ben Wallace displayed several styles — from the full-blown Afro with headband on the cover of Sports Illustrated, to rows of braids neatly latched to his head. Ben Wallace Allen Iverson, pride of the , Detroit Pist ons Philadelphia ’76ers, was one of the first professional athletes to wear braids on the basketball court. To maintain his high-profile style, which has changed regularly over the years, Iverson recruits personal stylists. His commitment to the quality of his braids has paid off and won him hours of prime-time publicity. Done in checkerboard patterns or spider designs, Iverson’s winding braids are living artwork. They take hours to put in, but need little attention once they are complete, which is why he likes them. Iverson merely has them rewoven every so often. He said haircuts are a hassle on the road or at home. According to him, braids are easier and just plain better. “I just didn’t like getting haircuts,” he said. “Now, I just get my hair braided, and it will be good for two or three games.”
Collectibles are a hit at family occasions Rose M. Walsh URBAN CALL EDITOR
African-American families will find some beautiful gift ideas in the Lenox line of fine china, porcelain and other collectibles. Available by mail order at www.lenox.com or by phone at (800) 536-6928, the fine art pieces are sure to please for many occasions — weddings, birthdays and holidays such as Christmas and Kwanzaa — the afterChristmas African-American family celebration. “Word is getting around. These have been very well received,” says the director of marketing for Lenox, Dan Cassidy. For Christmas there’s Oh Holy Night, an ebony nativity crafted of Lenox fine china accented with 24 karat gold. Complementing it is Stepping Out
another set, The Three Kings who visited the holy birth. Angels are popular. Malaika, Guardian Angel of Love, holds a small child. Safiya Nafia, Sweet Angel of Peace, holds a dove in her hand. Safiya, whose name means “purity” is the first of a set of inspirational angel ornaments. An angel child in the Wishing on a Star collection stands on a sliver of moon and holds a 24-karat handpainted star in her hand. There are other down-to-earth pieces. Stepping Out is a fashion figurine inspired by the Harlem Renaissance with a lady in a fringed flapper outfit, long coat and plumed hat. Tree of Life portrays four generations of an African-American family. The Fruits of Friendship captures the bond between a bird and a boy who feeds green grapes to the blue and orange parrot perched on his arm.
The Remarkable Journey profiles dynamic Americans Kathryn Mobley URBAN CALL WRITER
The Remarkable Journey, a nationally syndicated cable TV show, profiles dynamic AfricanAmericans and other minorities and their unbridled spirit to succeed. Kweisi Mfume, president of National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP), hosts the one-hour program, which runs in the top 25 markets. The first show— Martin Luther King, Jr.: The March To Freedom was nominated for an Emmy. Originally a local TV program, the series is in its fourth season of syndication. The impressive guest list includes: Debbie Allen (Broadway stage/film entertainer), Kadir Nelson (illustrator), Delores Huerta (Hispanic civil rights activist), Mary J. Blige (singer), Denyce Graves (opera singer), Debra Martin Chase (movie production executive), Russell Simmons (record label executive, fashion designer), Hank Aaron (baseball legend), Margaret Cho (comedian) and three doctors who grew up in a poor neighborhood and made a pact to become medical professionals-Sampson Davis, George Jenkins and Rameck Hunt. Learn about upcoming interviews by visiting the Web site at http://remarkablejourney.com.
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
Briefs . . .
Urban Call URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
■ The Sept.–Oct. Color Me Beautiful column in Sally Beauty Supply’s in-store magazine, Sally, celebrates the beauty of Latinas during Hispanic Heritage Month (Sept. 15–Oct. 15). Hair color is hot with Hispanic women, and a significant number are trying it. According to Cheskin research prepared by People En Espanol, more than half (53 percent) color their hair occasionally. Top colors named were light brown (25 percent), followed by reddish brown and auburn (16 percent); dark brown (13 percent) and medium brown (11 percent). Companies such as Wella (Canyon Reds Collection) and L’Oréal (L’Oréal Blonde HiLights) are producing products that can lift dark hair to red and blond shades. The column also features information on beauty for black women. Topics have included AfricanAmerican weddings, braids, color and the history of haircare.
■ Procter & Gamble (P&G) consumerproducts company (Tide, Pantene and Crest) has been named one of the 50 top companies for diversity by the magazine, DiversityInc. and the Internet site, www.diversityinc.com. The P&G Multicultural Business Development Organization focuses on AfricanAmericans and Latinos. For the past several years, P&G has acquired a number of ethnic brands including Textures ’n Tones hair coloring and Gentle Treatment relaxer. (www.pg.com). ■ Congratulations to Ethan Foster at the close of a successful 25-year career at SoftSheen/Carson, a consumer products division of L’Oréal USA Inc. Foster, the executive vice president of global sales, was with Soft Sheen at its inception in the ’70s, served several presidents and saw many transitions. He is a leader and icon in the Ethan Foster industry and has sold hundreds of millions of dollars worth of ethnic hair- and beautycare products to food, drug, mass market and major distributors, criss-crossing the U.S. and the globe from West Africa to South America to the Caribbean. Foster partnered with such Soft Sheen marketing geniuses as Gary Gardner (Namaste hair company) Denise Gardner (Insights & Opportunities market consulting) and
Mike Roberts (M.V. Roberts Co. distributor and broker). Foster has formed E.G. Foster Group, Inc., a business consultancy specializing in the Ethnic HB&A Market. (efoster@egfostergrp.com).
Loving Mergers ■ Linda Johnson Rice, president and CEO of Johnson Publishing, married Mel Farr, president of Triple M Acceptance Corp. The couple were united in a spectacular wedding ceremony performed by William Gray, former congressman and retired United Negro College Fund (UNCF) president, at Chicago’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel. About 270 guests attended the nuptials, described as “setting a new standard for elegance.” Linda Johnson Rice is the daughter of publishing giant and business icon, John H. Johnson, who first recognized the unserved needs of millions of black consumers with the launch of his family publishing and beauty empire, creating Ebony and Jet magazines and Fashion Fair cosmetics. ■ Another Chicago wedding took place at the Vernon Park Church of God. V. Essia Barnett, retired vice president of Revlon Professional Products and president of the Indiana state chapter of the National Beauty Culturists’ League, married Harold Batti, a systems administrator for a Chicago area company. An afternoon of festivities followed at the Lincolnshire Country Club in Crete, Ill.
NCBL (continued from Pg. 1) and Madam C.J. Walker invented hair restorers in their homes and sold them door to door. We have this proud heritage to uphold, protect and to move forward. One day, we too, will be seen as pioneers. What will the history books of years hence have to say about us? That question has yet to be fully answered, yet it is simple question if we all choose to say YES to a vision of strength. The impact of oneness has been felt by this administration through your support and perseverance. Through many cherished experiences, we have grown. Our predecessors would be proud. This year in Atlanta our 85th anniversary at the Sheraton Hotel (July 31–Aug. 7) is history in the making. Thanks to all our sponsors. To God Be the Glory.
NBCL Message: REGISTER AND VOTE URBAN CALL REPORT
The National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL), professionals in the beauty salon, barbershop and nail industry, (www.nbcl.org), are encouraging members and their patrons to recognize the power of the vote. During this election year, people can shape the democratic system at the ballot box. In many salons and barbershops, talk centers on current issues that impact a person’s economic quality of life, educational opportunities and personal freedoms. In order to vote in November it is necessary to register. Do this in your community or go online to www.congress.org, and click on the left side of the screen under Election 2004.
Being licensed benefits beauty professionals Dr. Wanda J. Nelson SPECIAL TO URBAN CALL
The beauty professional’s license. It says a lot about a professional and a lot about a beauty salon. It says that time has been invested — as much as 1,500 hours — in studying and practicing hair, nail and skin care. It says the stylist has graduated from a beauty or barber school and has mastered a state board exam — a rigorous test on beauty and health. It says the technician knows how to clean and sanitize styling tools to prevent bacteria growth and stop the spread of infection in the salon. It says the nail technician,
esthetician or hairstylist has taken classes on health issues that affect customers. Styling and cutting are just part of any cosmetologist’s job. Dealing with dandruff and alopecia (hair loss), coloring and relaxing hair safely, fighting nail fungus, and advising on beauty products are essential skills of a licensed cosmetologist. Not only are individuals licensed — so are salons. The licensed salon says the owner cares enough about the customer to employ a fully trained and certified staff. It says the beauty parlor or barbershop has passed health, safety and cleanliness
inspections. Every state has a certification and renewal procedures. At the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL), we go a step beyond beauty and barber schools and licensing. Our members get continuing education through state affiliates and earn bachelor, master and doctorate degrees at our National Institute of Cosmetology. The license is just one of many signs that mark the professional. Dr. Wanda J. Nelson is president of National Beauty Culturists’ League and Linking Pros columnist for Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles & Care Guide, which has granted permission to reprint this article.
Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles and Care Guide is No. 1 among magazines on hairstyles for African-American women.
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
Nappy ROOTS tells the history of hairstyles, trends By Rose M. Walsh URBAN CALL EDITOR
Hair and history. For no other Americans are these two elements as intertwined as they are for black Americans. The documentary film My Nappy ROOTS: A Journey Through Our Hair-itage traces the history and culture of AfricanAmerican hair from ancient Africa to the present. Regina Kimbell, president of Virgin MOON productions and executive producer of the documentary, notes that it depicts “the complex social, political and cultural influences that have shaped the dialogue and controversy surrounding African and African-American hairstyles.” To look at the various styles and trends that have come and gone in the African-American community is to understand the history of a people who were spread throughout the world by the African slave trade, also known as the African Diaspora— the dispersion from Africa. Many trends have become popular beyond the black community and
have influenced hairstyling nationally and internationally as the mainstream market has opted for natural styles such as braids and the Afro. The film features several industry pioneers and entrepreneurs including the late Art Dyson, who in the ’70s launched Soul Scissors, the first African-American owned hair salon chain in the United States, growing it into a 75salon operation grossing $7 million annually. Dyson perfected the “thermal blow-drying” technique, contrary to the wisdom of the time that black women’s hair would not respond to this new method. His acumen led him to be the first African-American hairstylist to enter and win large national and international hair shows. Lafayette Jones, a pioneer in the marketing of the ethnic hair and beauty care industry and president and CEO of Segmented Marketing Services Inc (SMSi), is a marketing consultant to the movie. Contact Kimbell at (818) 785-3116; mynappyroots@aol.com; www.mynappyroots.com.
NBCL history book — 85 years of lessons URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
Founded in 1919 by a small group of cosmetologists and beauty product manufacturers to serve the beauty and hair care needs of men and women of color, the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) celebrates its 85th year in 2004. Today, the organization, with headquarters in Washington D.C., represents 8,000 cosmetologists, barbers, estheticians and nail technicians in 42 states and international affiliates (Canada, England, Africa, the Caribbean, Germany).
Stylist hosts film festival after party URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
It was an Ethnic Hair-itage Experience. The producers of My Nappy ROOTS: A Journey Through our Hair-itage had one of many screenings of their film at the Hollywood Black Film Festival at the Harmony Gold Preview House on Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles in June. Shirlena Allen, a top African-American female stylist who does a host of “A” list Hollywood celebrities including Eve, Brandy and Vivica A. Fox, hosted a post-event screening party at her 50 North Salon in Beverly Hills. In the evening, Ethnic Hair-tage LIVE! featured live music, spoken word artists and off-thehook hairstyles at 50 N. LaCienga in Beverly Hills. Sally Beauty Supply, a sponsor of the event, distributed free gift bags at the screening and at the post-event screening party. For more information on film showings, contact Sharon Jenkins, associate producer and director of marketing at Virgin MOON Entertainment, (818) 785-3116 or at (818) 688-8111.
AHBAI FORMED FOR HAIRCARE MANUFACTURERS
A third edition of the association’s history (85th Anniversary Edition of the National Beauty Culturists’ League) is being published. “The power of history as a teacher cannot be understated,” noted Dr. Wanda Nelson, NBCL national president. “As experience is the greatest teacher, this book stands not just to commemorate the past, but also to commemorate the many experiences that have taught us how to survive and to make way for a productive future.” For more information, visit the NBCL Web site, www.nbcl.org or call (202) 332-2695.
Black women’s Crowns inspire book, play URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
The style, pride and verve of African-American women and the hats they wear on Sunday is honored in the book Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats (Doubleday). Photographer Michael Cunningham’s 50 blackand-white photographs are accompanied by essays on the women by writer Craig Marberry, who interviewed them. “Countless black women would rather attend church naked than hatless,” says the book jacket. “For a flamboyant church hat is more than a fashion statement — it is a reflection of a treasured tradition and their own inimitable style.” The book has been adapted to a calendar, note cards and a stage play. Playwright and actress Regina Taylor wrote the stage version, which is filled with gospel, hip-hop music and plenty of “hattitude.”
Photo by Michael Cunningham
Jimmie Ruth Jones and granddaughter Bridgette show their “crowns.”
Founded in 1981 to represent the ethnic health and beauty care industry, the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI), was created for black-owned hair companies. Pictured (standing, left to right) are founder Lafayette Jones, who was then president of Smith, Jones & Associates, an association management firm; Frank Davies, World of Curls; Comer Cottrell, ProLine Corp.; the late Nathaniel H. Bronner Sr. of Bronner Brothers and the late Marcus Griffith of Hairlox; Edward Gardner, Soft Sheen; Cornell McBride Sr., McBride Research
Laboratories: and Ken Wibecan, Smith, Jones & Associates. Seated from left to right are George Johnson, Johnson Products — the first chairman of AHBAI; Henry Bundles, Madame C.J. Walker Co.; James Cottrell, Pro-Line Corp.; the late Freddie Luster, Luster Corp.; and Dr. Austin Curtis, Curtis Laboratories. Not pictured is charter member Melvin Calloway, 6 N 1 Products. In 1982, the Proud Lady symbol was developed and affixed to products whose companies work to support the black community. Geri Jones is the current executive director, (312) 321-6824, www.ahbai.org
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
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PROFESSIONALS: JOIN US! Take advantage of two great opportunities. By filling out this survey you can become enrolled in ... ■ The National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL). Membership in NBCL will open doors to your peers in the beauty and haircare business and enable you to grow personally, professionally and financially. When you fill out the survey, you will receive details from NBCL headquarters in Washington, D.C., on how to join the organization for cosmetologists, barbers, estheticians and nail technicians. The annual fee for individuals is $75. Small business membership is $200. Corporate membership is $500.
AND ■ The SMSi Beauty Salon Network and the SMSi Barbershop Network are exclusive networks for salon and barber professionals. Membership entitles you to receive free gifts, product samples, publications and special offers for yourself and your customers to keep your clients coming back again and again. There is never any cost to you or your clients, not now or in the future. Please remember to use a street address (no P.O. boxes) so deliveries can be made directly to your place of business.
We need your help! Your feedback is important. Please complete and return the following survey. Mail or fax it to: 1. Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi) 4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 2. Fax to (336) 759-7212
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1. I want to receive information on how I can be a member of ... (Check (✔) all that apply) ❑ National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) ❑ SMSi Beauty Salon Network ❑ SMSi Barbershop Network ❑ I am currently a member of NBCL; ❑ SMSi Beauty Salon Network; ❑ SMSi Barbershop Network. ❑ Please update my contact information below. 2. What is your company’s primary business? (Check (✔) all that apply) ❑ Beauty Salon ❑ Barbershop ❑ Beauty Salon and Barbershop ❑ Nail Salon ❑ Distributor ❑ Beauty/Barber School ❑ Spa ❑ Other (please specify)_________
6. Does your salon or barbershop sell products (shampoos, conditioners, etc…) for your customers to use at home between salon visits? (Check (✔) yes or no) ❑ Yes ❑ No If yes, please list the top three products 1 _____________________________ 2 _____________________________ 3 _____________________________ 7. Do you make product recommendations to your clients based on their hairstyle and haircare needs? (Check (✔) yes or no) ❑ Yes ❑ No 7a. If yes, are your recommendations always limited to products that are sold in your salon? ❑ Yes ❑ No
8. Services your salon provides: (Check (✔) all that apply) ❑ Cutting ❑ Styling ❑ Braiding ❑ Perming ❑ Relaxing ❑ Coloring ❑ Makeup ❑ Treatments ❑ Skin Care ❑ Nail Care ❑ Hair Removal/Waxing ❑ Total Image Consulting ❑ Tanning/Sun Care ❑ Spa Services ❑ Hair Replacement ❑ Wigs/Hair Additions ❑ Other (please specify) _____________ _________________________________ Additional comments ________________ _________________________________
____________________________ 3. What is your title? (Check (✔) all that apply) ❑ Owner/President ❑ Booth-Renter ❑ Manager/Other Executive ❑ Braider/Weaver Stylist ❑ Cosmetologist/Stylist ❑ Esthetician/Makeup Artist ❑ Nail Technician ❑ Barber ❑ Barber/Beauty School Instructor ❑ Barber/Beauty School Student ❑ Other (please specify)___________
CONTACT NAME (please print clearly) BARBER/SALON BUSINESS NAME (please print clearly) BUSINESS ADDRESS (we cannot ship to P.O. boxes) CITY
STATE
ZIP
____________________________ 4. How many beauty/barber operators are at your business location? (Check (✔) only one) ❑ 1-2 ❑ 3-4 ❑ 5-6 ❑ 7-8 ❑ 9-10 ❑ 11-12 ❑ 13 or more
BUSINESS PHONE (include area code) CELL PHONE E-MAIL SMSi respects your privacy; this information will not be sold.
SMSi Sampling Network
5. Is your clientele primarily ... (Check (✔) all that apply) ❑ African-American/Black ❑ European-American/White ❑ Hispanic/Latino ❑ Asian ❑ Other
Beauty Salons
NBCL Membership
Barbershops
www.smsinetworks.com
VIP certificate
FREE packette a $1.29 value Cut out and present this certificate to your nearest Sally Beauty Supply store to receive your free packette.
www.nbcl.org
Locate a Sally store near you Sally Beauty Company Inc. is the world’s largest distributor of professional beauty supplies; it serves salon professionals and retail customers. The company has more than 3,000 stores in the U.S., Puerto Rico, United Kingdom, Canada, Germany, Mexico and Japan. For further information, visit www.sallybeauty.com or call 1-800-ASK-SALLY for store
SKU # 444852 Valid thru 11/30/04 Limit one per customer. Void if reproduced. Not valid with any other Sally offers. Good only in Sally Beauty Supply stores.
location information.
JOIN US
Find out what all the excitement is about. Benefits of Membership ■ Membership in an International Organization: Joining the NBCL means membership of a body whose reach extends beyond the United States and Canada into the Caribbean and Africa. Our global network allows for the crossfertilization of ideas and practices in our industry, which benefit directly our members.
Join the National Beauty Cultu rists'League,Inc.
■ Higher Education Opportunities: The National Institute of Cosmetology (NIC) is the only accredited institution nationally that offers NBCL members higher degree programs (B.A., M.A. and Ph.D.) in Cosmetology. Members can also earn degree credits by attending educational workshops at NBCL’s National, Regional and State conventions, held each year.
ats85 it thAnnual Convention &TradeShow
■ Greek Affiliations: Through the Theta Nu Sigma National Sorority and the Sigma Nu Theta Fraternity, the NBCL is able to provide members with the highest levels of skills and support services, thereby helping to improve the standards of the beauty/cosmetology industry. ■ Annual Conventions & Trade Shows: Every year, NBCL members gather to learn about the latest trends, techniques and products available to professionals in our industry.
Join the National Beauty Culturists' League at its 85th Annual National Convention July 30 - August 7, 2004 Sheraton Hotel - 165 Courtland St. Atlanta, GA 30503 Set-up date - July 31, 2004
■ Opportunities to Network: In our quest for excellence, the NBCL membership regularly attracts and receives rich sources of information and assistance from our affiliated bodies across the United States and abroad. ■ A complimentary subscription to Urban Call - Beauty Salon & Barbershop Edition and free product samples through the SMSi Beauty and Barbershop networks.
National Beauty Culturists' League ❖ 25 Logan Circle, N.W. ❖ Washington, D.C. 20005 ❖ (202) 332-2695 ❖ Fax: (202) 332-0940 ❖ www.nbcl.org
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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition
CUTTING
EDGE Coming Soon ...
URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
Renée Reynolds has a lot of shopping to do. As the Director of Merchandising for Sally Beauty Supply, she and her staff buy haircare and beauty Renée care products for women and Reynolds men of color. As she travels to trade shows around the country she sees awardwinning stylists, meets with suppliers and manufacturers, and gets the first news about what’s hot and what’s not. Her column, Cutting Edge, begins in the next issue of Urban Call Beauty Salon and Barbershop edition.
Atlanta mayor Shirley Franklin has recognized stylist Jakki Dee for his service to the community. Owner of Jakki Colours Beauty Clinic in the Buckhead area of Atlanta, Dee has been in business for 17 years and has a staff of 12 at his salon, which serves many of Atlanta’s movers and shakers including Mayor Franklin and the Atlanta chief of police Richard Pennington. He is an advocate for the homeless and has
Jakki Dee
established a beauty salon in the city’s homeless shelter. In addition, Dee holds a canned-food drive in the fall through the National Cosmetics Education Council, which he founded in 1996. Dee started a national voter registration drive focused on African-American beauty salons and churches. In a joint venture with the Atlanta Medical Center, the stylist has established a holistic spa to assist cancer victims with haircare and rehabilitation.
Conference addresses health disparities URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT
A conference, Faces of a Healthy Future: National Conference to End Health Disparities has been developed at Winston-Salem State University (WSSU) in Winston-Salem, N.C. Featured speakers include Joycelyn Elders, former U.S. Surgeon General and Dr. John Ruffin, Ph.D. Ruffin is the first Dr. Sylvia Flack director of the National Center on Minority Health and Health Disparities established by the National Institutes of Health. He has developed over 100 collaborative research studies and 30 research training programs. Dr. Benjamin Carson, M.D., director of the pediatric neurosurgery at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore, MD, is co-director of the university’s craniofacial center. He has written best sellers including Gifted Hands, Think Big and The Big Picture. A case study — Healthy Living — Every Day! presented by Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi) covers the use of multicultural community venues (churches, beauty salons, barbershops) to provide messages about improving health and lifestyle. Dr. Sylvia Flack, EDD, dean of the university’s health sciences school, is director of the Center for Innovative Research and Health Care Disparities as well as the Community Family Practice and Wellness Center at WSSU. For more information on the conference, call Camille Roddy at WSSU, (336) 7502570 or go to www.fhfconference.com.
LEFT: Latoya Patten was crowned Ms. Proud Lady 2004. RIGHT: TV judge Greg Mathis (right) star of the Judge Mathis TV show congratulates first place stylist Gail Nelson (center) for her winning entry in the American Health and Beauty Aids (AHBAI) fantasy competition shown on model Tryphena Nelson. Assisting with the honors are Michael Joshua (left), president of J.M. Products Inc., and Geri Duncan Jones, executive director of AHBAI.
JOHNSON PRODUCTS COMPANY — GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
Company memories … In 1981, Johnson Products Company employees gathered for the annual report meeting. (Seated, from left) James H. Campbell, group product manager, professional division; Joseph Rodney Lawrence, associate director, media and sales; Randall E. Coleman, national sales manager; William H. Stewart, group product manager, retail division. (Standing, from left) Chester L. Stewart, director of new products and corporate development; Elisa Fredericks, group product manager, cosmetics division; Lafayette Jones, vice president, marketing and sales; Dattatray N. Manerikar, director of marketing services; Celeste M. Myles (deceased), marketing and sales administrator.
It’s been decades since George Johnson formed the Johnson Products haircare products manufacturing company — the first African-American owned business to be traded on the New York Stock Exchange. Through a series of mergers and acquisitions, the company was sold and its brands acquired by major corporations such as Procter & Gamble and L’Oréal USA (SoftSheen/Carson). No longer a corporate enterprise, the Johnson name is still familiar. Employees of the former company continue in successful careers and keep in touch. A reunion of more than 100 former associates toasted George Johnson and his wife Joan on the founder’s birthday celebration at a reunion in Chicago where the entrepreneur founded his company. Westina Matthews Shatteen, a Merrill Lynch investment firm vice president and daughter of the late Urban League giant Edwin Berry (a company public affairs vice president), was the master of ceremonies. Neal Harris, former director of military and international sales at Johnson Products, photographed the event. Contact him at (773) 924-7026 or nahjr1@aol.com.