FrontCover Hilltop Fashion and st yle
2 • SMU LOOK
Spring/Summer 21 • 3
MARY-WESLEY MADDOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR MAGGIE KELLEHER SENIOR EDITOR LONI NUNZIATA ASSISTANT EDITOR MARIA CHAMMAS CREATIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR ISABEL MEADOWS STYLE EDITORS CAROLINE KING, SINCLAIR JELLEME ASSISTANT STYLE EDITORS EMILY ROURKE, LILY JACH ASSISTANT CREATIVE PRODUCTION CHARLOTTE RYAN, NOLAN NEPOMUCENO MODEL COORDINATOR & MUA HEAD ELEANOR BROWN ART ART CO-DIRECTORS SARAH SCAMBRAY, SYDNEY HOSBEIN ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR MEREDITH EMBREE ART TEAM OLIVIA PORSCHE, BELLA PINERA, CAROLINE SOJA DIGITAL DIGITAL DIRECTOR MARIA RYAN ASSISTANT DIGITAL DIRECTOR CAROLYN HAMMOND WRITERS MUSHFEQUR RAHMAN, PRINCESS MATTHEWS, BROOKE BETIK, GILLIAN BRESSIE, FERNANDA GONZALEZ, MADDIE CRISP MARKETING MARKETING DIRECTOR MACKENZIE WRAY ASSISTANT DIRECTOR MORGAN GRUWELL SALES & MARKETING MANAGER AMELIA EVANS SALES ASSISTANTS BENNETT HILL, KATE COWLES, KATIE ERIKSON, NICOLE BARNES EVENT COORDINATOR EMMA EAKER EVENT TEAM ANGELINA CHOUCAIR, KATTE FOSTER SOCIAL SOCIAL MEDIA CO-DIRECTORS GILLIAN WILLIAMS, ISABELLA DUFFY SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANTS MICHAELA MCTEE, CHAYA JOY FENG VIDEO VIDEO DIRECTOR CAMILLE ENES VIDEO TEAM ALEXA FIELD, SUTTON SOINSKI, KAITLYN SCIARRINO, CHLOE GRACE CRISSMAN CONTRIBUTORS PHOTOGRAPHERS CHASE HALL, KELSEY SWEENEY, MOLLY CASSADY ADVISING EDITORS JAYNE SUHLER, JENNY DAVIS, CANDACE BARNHILL, LISA GOODSON, ETHAN LASCITY PHOTO ADVISOR ROBERT HART EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR TONY PEDERSON SMU Look, a student-run magazine at Southern Methodist University, is published by the Division of Journalism in Meadows School of the Arts. SMU Look is dedicated to providing a youthful take on Dallas fashion and living. We strive to inspire and cultivate the standard of style on campus and beyond.
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Umphrey Lee Center 6225 Hillcrest Avenue Dallas, TX 75275 Entire Contents © SMU Look
VOLUME 5. ISSUE 2
CONTENTS 07
Student Spotlight: Q & A with “The Detente Collective” SMU students work together to give back to the Dallas community.
09 13
backstage barriers
15
going the distance
24
sneaker sabotage
30
Shared Styles
32
Just For You
For models, Equality begins behind the scenes.
Boo! You’ve Been Ghosted the spooky new dating trends that affects how people deal with breakups.
long distance relationships can be controversial, but college students make them work.
only industry action can ensure fresh kicks for all.
With an iPhone and a new attitude, Gen Z is proving that the future of fashion is genderless.
Whether it’s for now or forever, Districtt helps you create a space that feels
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CONTRIBUTORS Kelsey y Sweene
Chase ll Ha
Mollyady Cass
WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT?
IF YOU COULD LIVE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, WHERE WOULD YOU LIVE?
WHAT’S YOUR DREAM VACATION?
“I love to keep my style very chic, simple and versatile. I usually pair light wash denim with a bodysuit, booties, accessories and a statement jacket or bag.”
“I would live in London. I really like England and its countryside but want to be able to drive there, not live there.”
“I’d say my dream vacation would definitely be at the beach! I love hanging out by the pool and beaches and tanning with my friends!”
Spring/Summer 21 • 5
Moving Forward It’s hard to believe it has been over a year since our lives changed so dramatically: lockdowns, virtual classes and social activities, uncertainty and worry. With the constant stream of news, I know I don’t need to emphasize how much the world changed during the COVID-19 pandemic. While we experienced many tragedies in 2020, the year 2021 brings with it a glimmer of hope. As vaccines become plentiful and the pandemic recedes, we dare to move forward. In this issue, we are looking to the future with optimistic eyes and bright perspectives. We highlight the fresh fashion and beauty we’re seeing this spring (pg. 8), and maybe we’ll actually get to wear some of them outside! With all the time we’ve spent online in recent months, it’s no surprise that new tech trends have emerged. From the marketing power of TikTok (pg. 32) to the problem with bots in the sneaker game (pg.10), social media has evolved in new ways amidst quarantine. Gen Z-ers are ushering in a new age of gender-neutral fashion (pg.24). Even dating has changed (pgs. 30 and 31). The new year brought more isolation and social media continued to empower young people to get involved with larger issues. A group of SMU students were inspired to make a difference in Dallas (pg. 7). And the fashion and beauty industries continued to be held accountable for discrimination. Many changes were made, and other areas still need improvement, like models of color getting equal treatment backstage (pg. 13). It’s certain that we will see lasting change in our post-pandemic world, but we are excited to watch it unfold. After more than a year of Zoom meetings, I know the SMU Look staff is ready to return to some normalcy and to start integrating in-person meetings again. However, I am proud of staff members’ resilience and dedication during the pandemic: meeting every week, keeping up with our social media channels and putting out this amazing final issue.
6 • SMU LOOK
THE DET ENTE COL LECT IVE.
Student Spotlight: Q&A with The Detente Collective By Fernanda Gonzalez
The Detente Collective is a student organization that “strives to give communities what they need to foster positive social, educational, economic, and personal growth.” The group was founded by three Southern Methodist University students: Reagan McGinnis, class of 2023; Sam Westfall, class of 2021; and RaSun Kazadi, class of 2022. Together, they have started a movement within our campus that encourages students to get involved with issues facing the greater Dallas community. Continue reading to get to know The Detente Collective and how the SMU student body can get involved with its work. SMU LOOK: What does the name “The Detente Collective” mean? SAM: The name detente comes from French philosophy and it means “to ease tension or hostility,” and I think there is definitely a need for that in our world right now. Young people are piloting this initiative because we are taking action instead of just talking about things. SMU LOOK: What inspired you to create The Detente Collective? REAGAN: Essentially, we saw a lack of engagement with people our age on our campus considering issues impacting the greater Dallas community. Ra noticed a big gap in the funding of public schools in our community, so we decided that that was where we could step in and make a change. RASUN: Sometimes people feel alienated from things that do not specifically affect them. We want to bridge that gap and help people in the process. SMU LOOK: Why do you think there is a gap between SMU students and the greater Dallas community? RASUN: I think we are distracted by a lot of things on campus. You would have to go out of the SMU community to realize that there is more to Dallas than just our campus, a few places in Uptown, a few places in Deep Ellum, etc. SMU LOOK: I know you all have had a focus on public school funding — is that The Detente Collective’s main effort, or just one of many? REAGAN: It is definitely one of many things. This is something that we want to grow into a multifaceted effort. We want to address things like food insecurity, homelessness, access to clean water, health services and things like that. However, we have found that in most cities in the United States you can root back issues to education, so we definitely feel that that initiative is a great one because it changes the whole community. RASUN: We want to get our hand in anywhere that needs our help. We want to help anyone who has been pushed to the outskirts of society. SMU LOOK: If your group had an unlimited budget, what would be your first project in the City of Dallas? RASUN: We would have an after school program, a lunch program, computer labs in every public school as well as libraries. We would definitely also donate to hire more teachers and pay teachers more too. SAM: Our end goal is to have a national effort that will help anyone that needs help. SMU LOOK: How can SMU students help your mission? REAGAN: We are starting to sell merchandise right now that will help raise money for all our initiatives, so students can certainly look into that. We are also looking to get fraternities and sororities involved in our mission as a way to fundraise. Anyone who wants to help can always reach out to us on @detentecollective, there is always something to do. RASUN: The biggest thing is for people to be aware, and that happens by actually getting out in the community. Learn more about the Detente Collective online: @detentecollective on Instagram
Spring/Summer 21 • 7
TAKE IT TO THE MAX WITH THESE BOLD TRENDS
CINCHED IN FOR SPRING
This season, we’re taking inspiration from Bridgerton and getting cinched into corset tops. These figure-framing pieces can be dressed up for a night out or dressed down with jeans for the daytime. Shop corsets at a variety of price points from brands like Fleur du Mal, Reformation and Urban Outfitters. — Mary-Wesley Maddox
urbano
UP TO MY KNEES
When it comes to boots, we’re making the switch from thigh highs to knee highs. Knee high boots with a chunky heel have been everywhere this fall and winter, and we’re bringing them into spring with flirty skirts and dresses. Check out Italian shoe brand Paris Texas for bold textured pairs, or shop Sam Edelman for more affordable varieties. — Maggie Kelleher
utfitters
.com, $
59
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int ag
e. c o m
, $68
MIGHTY METALLICS
Stand out from the crowd in an eye-catching metallic piece. Right now, we’re loving metallic pants for cooler weather and colorful metallic tops when the weather warms up. The disco-inspired trend is part of a ‘70s revival that will continue this spring. Look to Revolve and Shopbop to find the perfect metallic piece for you. — MWM
revolve.com, $16 8
8 • SMU LOOK
STYLE BRIEFS
Go topless this summer. Okay, not really; but, this season we’re swapping full-length tops for bra tops. The options for styling are endless, no matter your plans. Be comfortable and style a cashmere bra top with matching pants, or be bold and try a fauxleather look. Either way, you’re bound 8 to make a top-notch statement. , $16 e. c o m v l — Loni Nunziata o v re
SUMMER ROMANCE
Isabelle Searles, ‘24
This summer, we’re swooning for comfortable dresses. From mini to maxi, light-weight and flowy dresses are sure to beat the heat in style. Whether you’re into ruffles and frills or more sleek cuts, this summer’s romance-inspired dresses will have you falling in love. — LN
loves
ha
c y.c c k f an
o m,
CUT IT OUT
Add a little splice to an everyday look with a cutout garment. This trend transforms our favorite classic styles from drab to fab. Right now, we’re loving asymmetrical and keyhole cuts. These structural tops pair perfectly with metallic or patterned pants for a night out. — Maria Chammas
$ 375
FAR-OUT PATTERNS
From the groovy florals of the ‘70s to the retro geometrics of the ‘60s, we’re going back in time this season and sporting bold patterns. Keep it funky and fresh with attention-grabbing bright colors that are sure to turn heads. Our favorite way to incorporate this trend is with a pair of patterned pants. — Maggie Kelleher
POPPIN’ COLLARS
Give yourself some structure this spring with oversized collars. Elevate your neckline by trying different cuts, materials and styles. Embrace your inner prairie girl by pairing an oversized collar top with a midi skirt or baggy jeans. Shop chic collared shirts on Shopbop or at Zara. — MC
Emily Garrett, ‘24
Spring/Summer 21 • 9
Dallas is 1,127 miles from the heart of Mexico City, but only minutes away from Gourmet Mexicano cuisine. Setting the bar for Continental Mexico City Cuisine for the last 44 years, Javier’s is not your typical Tex-Mex Restaurant. You will not find tacos or enchiladas here, but you will find some delicios dishes of tenderloin beef, fresh seafood, shrimp, chicken and quail dishes seasoned with traditional spices of Mexico, and influenced by its Spanish heritage. Javier’s will change the way you think of Mexican food. We surround you with a classic colonial sophistication that you will not want to leave behind. And why should you? After dinner enjoy the wonderful ambiance of the famous cigar bar, and select from the large selection of premium cigars, ports, and handcrafted drinks in a sophisticated ambiance that you won’t find anywhere else in Dallas.
4912 Cole Avenue Dallas, Texas 75205 10 • SMU LOOK
214-521-4211
Backstage
For Black Models, Equality Begins Behind the Scenes By Michaela McTee
Barriers the expertise to work with any type of hair, not just Caucasian hair. Breisch, who identifies as Hispanic, says she gained the skills and experience necessary to work with Black hair from fellow stylists who took the time to teach her. “It’s simply an issue of proper training,” she says. As the fashion media industry continues to embrace diversity, hairstylists will have to catch up. Shaw says she’s already seeing progress. “The up-andcoming talent are asking questions and learning and watching,” she says. “And that gives me hope.”
Nina Shaw by Clay Boutte
When it comes to Black representation in fashion media, 2020 was a year like no other. After a summer of racial reckoning, major magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar made pledges to promote diversity and inclusion across all aspects of their operations. This included an editorial commitment to featuring more Black models. While this progress is positive, some Black models say that equity can’t be achieved until they’re treated the same behind-the-scenes, too — starting in the hair and makeup chair. They say that it’s high time for the white hair stylists who work with them on set make a commitment to diversity by broadening their ability to work with Black hair. Dallas-based model and actress Nina Shaw, who has worked for Neiman Marcus and Old Navy, says it can feel “disheartening” to see white models getting the glam treatment backstage while Black models like Shaw have had do their own hair because the on-set stylists “don’t have the products or supplies, or they simply don’t know how to do our hair.” Shaw and many other models of color all have horror stories about hair stylists who lacked adequate training and tools. This inexperience has even put the health of their hair at risk. One prominent Black model who has been outspoken about her experiences with such inequality is Winnie Harlow, who has worked for Fendi, Nike, Marc Jacobs and more. “There are so many people who are like, ‘Yeah! I’ve worked on a black girl before. I know black hair’ and then they still reach for the tongs or use too high a heat,” she said in a 2018 Allure article. If Harlow isn’t getting treated properly, models in smaller modeling scenes definitely aren’t. San Antonio-based model Chase Huggins says that an inexperienced stylist once improperly straightened her hair, leaving parts of her signature curls permanently flattened. Even when her hair hasn’t been damaged, Huggins, who identifies as Black and Filipino, says she’s often arrived on set for modeling jobs only to find out the person hired to style her hair has no idea what to do. “They never know how to touch it,” she says, “and when they do, they get their hands stuck in my hair.” The solution, says San Antonio hairstylist Luly James Breish, is simple: education. A truly professional hair stylist, she believes, must have
Spring/Summer 21 • 11
READY, SET, Step up your beauty routine to step out this season
2
Bangin’ Brows
Swap out your brow gel for a bar of soap. Beloved by Madison Beer, this affordable swap will beautifully shape your eyebrows and last all day long. First, grab a spoolie, spray it with face mist, and then rub the spoolie into a bar of soap. Lastly, comb through your brows and shape as desired. — Maria Chammas
1
Behind the Curtain
Channel your inner Brigitte Bardot with yet another vintage-inspired trend this season: curtain bangs. This effortless, face-framing style is great because it’s flattering on nearly every hair type. Ask your stylist to keep the bangs around nose-length to ensure you can still tie them back in a ponytail. To style this trendy cut, use a blow dry brush to add volume and fan the hair away from the face. — Maggie Kelleher
Photographer: Chase Hall Helena Ahearn, ‘24
3
Perfect Plaits
Add something fun to your ‘do with statement braids. We’re loving everything from mini braids in front to bubble braid pigtails. For a simple touch, braid small pieces at the front and tie off with clear bands. If you want to have a little more fun, separate your hair into two high pigtails, tie off sections with clear bands at every inch and fluff each section. Perfect bubble braids!
— Mary-Wesley Maddox
12 • SMU LOOK
4
Ocean Glow
This summer, channel your inner dolphin and opt for a dewy and radiant makeup look. Dolphin skin has taken over Instagram’s skincare and beauty trends, and we can’t get enough of it. Get your makeup ready to glow in the summer sun by using ultra-moisturizing and hydrating skin products. To achieve that porcelain-shine, swap your pressed cheek, highlighting, and eye powders for creme products. — Maria Chammas
Models: Claire Strachan, ‘22 Olivia Schumacher, ‘24 Photographer: Kelsey Sweeney, ‘21 Dresses from Blue Jean Baby
5
One Product Fits All
It’s a match made in makeup heaven. Stop searching for the perfect color match, and start using products that adapt. Brands are making our lives easier by creating innovative formulas designed to match every consumer’s individual coloring. Shiseido’s Waso Color-Smart Daily Moisturizer’s off-white color and Lipstick Queen’s forest green shade of its Frog Prince Lipstick seem questionable at first glance. However, once applied, these beauty must-haves adapt to the skin and lips and enhance their natural tone. — Loni Nunziata
6
Rolling Into Summer
Goodbye curling wands, and hello, hot rollers. We can’t get enough of the simplicity and styling options that this blast from the past has to offer. Once placed and secured on your head, hot rollers give you the freedom to complete other tasks while simultaneously achieving a salon-looking style. If you’re want to achieve every TikTok fashionista’s bouncy blowout look, use larger-sized rollers.
— LN
Huda Beauty Obsessions Eyeshadow Paletter - Emerald, $27
7
More Than Meets the Eye
Line up for this retro-inspired trend. This season, we’re seeing 60s-inspired graphic liner and bright monochromatic shadow everywhere. Take a cue from the iconic U.K.-born model Twiggy and use liquid liner to create a wing and add a sharp line to the lid. Add a pop of matte colored shadow to get the retro look! Go all the way by creating Twiggy-inspired faux bottom lashes with black liner. — Mary-Wesley Maddox
Models: Katia Novi, ‘21 Photographer: Kelsey Sweeney, ‘21
Spring/Summer 21 • 13
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Yo u ’v e be en
G
O S D T E H The spooky new dating trend that affects how people deal with breakups By Kate Foster
You meet someone new out for drinks or a movie, and it seems like the encounter was successful. But after weeks of silence, it becomes apparent: you’ve been ghosted. “I genuinely didn’t know what ghosting was until someone came up to me in a bar and told me I ghosted them,” said Parker Chuba, a financial analyst living in Atlanta. “Ghosting” is when we end contact with a partner, friend, or date without warning, or ignore their texts, calls or other communication. The practice can create confusion, misunderstanding and even pain. It happens more than you might think. According to a 2018 HuffPost article, 50 percent of people admit to both experiencing ghosting and ghosting someone else. A 2018 survey by BankMyCell showed even higher numbers: 82 percent of women and 71 percent of men have ghosted someone. “I ghosted someone a couple of years ago because I did not know what I wanted,” said Cameron Hay, a senior at Southern Methodist University. “I think it stemmed from an anxiety perspective. I didn’t feel like I could tell them this face-to -face, which I know is immature. I eventually blocked their number because I wanted to forget the whole thing.” The rise in ghosting could have something to do with just how easy
technology makes it to ghost. Chuba says people used to communicate exclusively face-to-face on dates, so people faced their likes and dislikes in person. But in the world of swiping, liking and DMing, closing a relationship is as easy as closing an app. “Because you can ghost without any real consequences then why wouldn’t you?” asks Chuba. “We always think there’s something better out there because when you go on Instagram for instance, and you see that everything is perfect, and maybe that girl you went out with wasn’t perfect in every single way then you ghost them and move on.” Dr. Omri Gillath, a professor of psychology at the University of Kansas who has researched attachment style in relationships, said social media allows people to easily ghost one another. “People sometimes view romantic partners as disposable and treat them like that,” he said. Hay believes that ghosting can even affect one’s mental health. “I think that being ghosted leaves people without closure,” she says. “Depending on the relationship, being ghosted can take a toll on mental health because it makes people feel like they are the problem. The person who is ghosting someone else also does not get closure in the relationship. It may seem like a temporary fix in the short-term, but it hurts both of you in the end.”
Spring/Summer 21 • 15
: o D o Summer T
1 . S TAY H O M E 2. READ LOOK
C ONNEC T WITH US ALL YE AR LONG @smulook
16 • SMU LOOK
smulook
@smulook
G
NG OI E TH
Long distance relationships can be controversial, but college
By Meredith Welborn
students make them work.
“Yeah, good luck with that!” said the Uber drive upn hearing about my long-distance relationship. It was just one of the intrusive comments offered up about my long-distance relationship. Arthur and I talked via phone for three months before he came to visit me for the first time in almost two years — talk about nerves — so how hard could long distance be? Roughly 75% of college students are in a long-distance relationship at some point in their lives, and 35% of college students are in a longdistance relationship at a given time, according Laura Stafford’s 2005 study, “Maintaining LongDistance and Cross-Residential Relationships.” If so many college students date long-distance, why do so many people, like that Uber driver, dismiss it? Whether or not a relationship fails is not due to the proximity of one person to another, says Jennifer Pirecki, a Nashville-based author, speaker, educator and psychotherapist in private practice who focuses on marriage and family counseling. The difference between failures in long-distance and close proximity couples is the way in which a relationship breaks down, she said. Laziness, Pirecki said, is a huge factor for couples who live near each other while longdistance couples tend to savor their time together. On the other hand, long-distance couples miss out on day-to-day life with their significant others, which can present problems if marriage is ever in the question. “A bond between two people is, in essence, a living thing,” Pirecki said. A relationship needs to grow in order to survive, and “usually, if we’re not
contributing to the relationship, we’re depleting the relationship in a way that will catch up with us at some point.” For long-distance couples who want to transition into marriage, Pirecki advises them to spend about a year in a shared space before getting married. Meg Bergstrom-Dix and her husband Jeremy did exactly what Pirecki recommends. Meg, who graduation from SMU in 2019, met Jeremy during her senior year of high school, and they started dating long-distance when Meg started college. Upon graduation, Bergstrom moved back to California; the couple got engaged in November 2019 and tied the knot in September 2020. Dix found that she and her husband were able to focus more on themselves while they were apart. Long-distance dating “really helped me find who I was and who I wanted to be independently,” Dix said. Pirecki agreed. Their arrangement allowed each of them to pay attention to their own individual development, he said. Dix said that she was able to build strong and lasting friendships, keep up her grades and join a sorority. And, while it wasn’t always easy, every time they saw each other in person made their proximity negligible. Experts urge that both people need to be 100% invested in the relationship for it to work. Whether you’re terrified by the idea of longdistance or you’ve been doing it for years, do what is right for you and your significan tother — and definitely don’t take advice from your Uber driver.
Spring/Summer 21 • 17
e d i s l Poo n o i t c e f r e P Summer fun starts with candy-colored dresses and coverups
Setting the Pace Outfits from left to right 1: Rococo Sand, $489 2: Kamperett, $645 3: La Vie Style House, $650 4: Rococo Sand, $382 5: Aje, $375
18 • SMU LOOK
Clothing: Jane and Coco, La Vie Style House, Market Shoes: Stylist’s Own Accessories: Tootsies Photographer: Kelsey Sweeney ‘21 Models: Annette Bolomboy ‘21, Katia Novi ‘21, Abby Walczack ‘21, Bar Pierce ‘23, Caroline Davis ‘24 Stylists: Isabel Meadows, Caroline King, Sinclair Jelleme, Emily Rourke, Lily Jach, Charlotte Ryan, Nolan Nepomuceno Location: The home of Natalie and Mike McGuire
Spring/Summer 21 • 19
Laid-back Luxury Coverup: La Vie Style House, $650 Headwrap: La Vie Style House, $175
20 • SMU LOOK
Too Groovy Earrings: Elizabeth Cole, $170 Top: Stylist’s Own Skirt: Rococo Sand, $252 Shoes: Model’s Own
Spring/Summer 21 • 21
Flower Power Outfits from left to right Caftan: La Vie Style House, $650 22 • SMU LOOK Cafttan: La Vie Style House, $750 Bathing Suits: Stylist’s Own
Spring/Summer 21 • 23
Free Spirit Dress: Rococo Sand, $396 Necklace: Tootsies, $495
24 • SMU LOOK
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Sneaker Sabotage
$ $ $ $ $
B U Y
Only industry action can
ensure fresh kicks for all By Ella McCarty Illustration by Sarah Scambray
26 • SMU LOOK
I
f you're not a sneaker-savvy person, here's a tip: Don’t mention bots to a sneakerhead. Why? Because in the game of buying and selling limited-edition sneakers during an online drop, bots act like an invisible defensive force, interfering with fair play and preventing would-be buyers from scoring the shoes of their dreams. Bots can’t be detected, and they can’t be avoided. And if they’re involved in a drop, the buyer will never win. But it wasn’t always this way. In the beginning, the path between the sneaker-obsessed buyer and the coveted kick was clear. It all started with the Nike Air Jordan 1. When this shoe was released in 1985, it was prized for two reasons: It was named after basketball legend Michael Jordan, and it cost $65 – a sizeable sum back in the day. This is widely believed to be the moment when sneakers transformed into status symbols. Rob Drydek, a former professional skateboarder turned sneakerhead, confirmed this view in the 2015 Amazon Prime documentary, Sneakerheadz. “There’s a handful of things that can define who you are without saying a word,” he said, “and your shoes are one of them.” The culture of acquisition-atany-cost had officially begun. Long lines outside of sneakersellers became commonplace, leading some sneakerheads to set up camp days in advance of a release to ensure they could score the must-have merch the moment the doors opened. But all was not lost if someone didn’t get their shoes. There was another option: a reseller. This involved finding someone who did have a pair who would be willing to sell them – for a mark-up, of course. With the advent of the Internet, sneaker releases, or drops, eventually moved online. The intent was to democratize the process, allowing sneaker lovers everywhere an equal chance to buy the latest pair of coveted kicks, no camping gear required. But resellers also realized that they didn’t have to wait in line anymore either, and they started looking for ways to buy even more shoes. Not only could the resellers make money by flipping more pairs, but if they could buy up more of the release and keep it out of the hands of the regular sneaker buyers, they’d end up being the only sneaker-sale game in town for those desperate for a pair. Which meant they could jack up the prices even higher. That’s when the bots began to f-up the game even more. A bot is a sophisticated software code designed to aid the owner in purchasing limited-quantity goods. A sneaker bot’s purpose is to buy as many pairs of sneakers during an online drop as possible, as quickly as possible. Usually, a coder programs a bot and sells it to anyone who can afford one. In the case of sneakers, this is often a high-volume reseller. A good sneaker bot can add-to-cart and check out in as little as .2 seconds, according to a 2021 article about bots in the London-based fashion magazine WTVOX. And it can do it over and over again. The result: The reseller wins, and the average sneakerhead loses.
Mellany Sanchez, Drake's former stylist and the original creative director for the global streetwear brand Kith, acknowledges that sneaker resale is a part of the game. But she said it shouldn’t be the only game because it means “you're completely eliminating the consumer who was ready to buy it at the first point.” Clearly the bots must be stopped, and it is up to the sneaker industry to prevent this sneaker sabotage. Sneaker brands must first work together rather than trying to act against bots independently. Then, they must jointly lobby for legislation to outlaw the use of sneaker bots entirely. While some sneaker brands have attempted to address the bot problem, they’ve never teamed up to try working together. Their unilateral approaches have only lasted until the next software update. Then it’s game on again for the bots. For example, Nike has spent millions fighting bots. In 2015, it launched its own sneaker drop app to better control bots, and it later invested in Akamai, an anti-bot program, but neither approach lasted. Berrics, a skating sneaker brand that sells shoes, tried to ward off bots with a warning of sorts. When it caught a bot during one of its drops, it used technology to trick it into spending $11,000 on a single pair of shoes, according to 2020 Highsnobiety article. Unfortunately, this tactic was more amusing than effective. Sneaker industry expert Matt Powell of NPD Group thinks sneaker companies would be more effective if they worked together. “It would behoove the brands to collaborate with each other and take their best practices to beat the bots,” he said. Or, the sneaker industry could simply get the law involved. Legislation that criminalizes the use of bots and attaches penalties to bot usage could be more effective than technology to stop the bots once and for all. Bots already go against the Terms and Conditions of many brands’ websites, but punishing them is nearly impossible, according to the Highsnobiety bot article. Unless they became illegal. There’s actually some precedent for this strategy. In 2015, U2 performed at Madison Square Garden in New York, and tickets disappeared faster than fans could buy them. The reason? Ticket bots. The resulting public rage resulted in the passage of the Better Online Ticket Sales (BOTS) Act in 2016, making buying-by-bot illegal for concerts nationwide. Unfortunately, the law applies only to tickets and cannot be extended to sneakers. At least one sneaker retailer thinks sneakerheads would be on board for whatever the sneaker industry decided to do, especially if their favorite brands were behind it. Noah Liddell, a part-owner of the Dallas Laboratory, a sneaker and streetwear retailer, thinks that if Nike were to ask its followers to support its efforts to end bots, they would do it in a heartbeat: “It’s definitely a they say ‘jump’ and the fans say ‘how high’ type of relationship.”
The culture of acquisition-atany-cost had officially begun.
Spring/Summer 21 • 27
Look pretty in pink in these polished looks with retro flair
Arm Candy Dress: Alice +Olivia, $395 Heels: Stylist’s Own Tuxedos: Rental, Price Upon Request Photographer: Kelsey Sweeney ‘21 Models: Ben Mandiya ‘24, Cameron Fitz ‘21, Szabolcs Váradi ‘24 Stylists: Isabel Meadows, Caroline King, Sinclair Jelleme, Emily Rourke, Lily Jach, Charlotte Ryan, Nolan Nepomuceno Hair and Makeup: KC Chambers, ‘23 Location: Highland Park Village
28 • SMU LOOK
Girl on the Go Dress: Alice + Olivia, $395 Coat: Alice + Olivia, $595 Heels: Stylist’s Own
Spring/Summer 21 • 29
Love Triangle Dress: Alice + Olivia, $350 Coat: Alice + Olivia, $595 Heels: Stylist’s Own
30 • SMU LOOK
Formalities
Spring/Summer 21 • 31
SHARED STYLES With an iPhone and a new attitude, Gen Z is proving that the future of fashion is genderless 32 • SMU LOOK
By Julia Fox Illustration by Sarah Scambray
T
he Gucci gown featured on the December 2020 cover of American Vogue certainly brought the drama. Greyish blue and billowing like a storm cloud, black lace trim cut across its layered ruffles, uniting the frock with the sharply tailored ebony blazer worn over top. The person wearing this edgy ensemble wasn’t a supermodel, actress or influencer. In fact, it wasn’t a woman at all. It was Mr. Harry Styles, a male singer considered by many to be one of the most eligible bachelors in the western world. In the 127-year history of the highly influential fashion and lifestyle magazine, Harry Styles was the first man to appear on the cover by himself. But this wasn’t what made it a controversial choice. No, this cover became a hot-button issue because Styles stood on that cover spot rocking a dress. Harry Styles isn’t the first musician to blur fashion’s gender lines. Long before Styles, singers like David Bowie, Prince and the rock band KISS were known for wearing makeup and feminine-leaning looks. Today, musicians like Pharrell Williams and Jaden Smith regularly wear nail polish, Chanel jackets and ropes of pearls. Despite this history of musicians breaking the rules of gendered fashion, their influence rarely reached much further than their fanbase. Average people were not dressing to emulate their idols because gender stereotypes ruled their reality. Expectation still dictated that boys couldn’t wear pink and girls had to look feminine. While fashion and beauty are considered outlets for self-expression, they also serve as a reinforcer of traditional gender norms. So what does it mean when Harry Styles wears a dress on the cover of Vogue? Does it make him any less of a man? Increasingly, the answer – among young people at least – has been no. Though musicians may have planted the (non-binary) seed, Gen Z has nurtured its growth. “Gen Z has absolutely influenced the binary constructs around gender identity and gender expression,” said Rob Smith, founder of The Phluid Project, a gender-free clothing brand in New York City that’s known for its community activism. Why does the fashion industry listen to Gen Z? The answer comes down to money. Gen Z is estimated to spend upwards of $140 billion in the next four years, making it one of the most important customer sectors in fashion, according to a 2019 article on Commetric, a media analytics agency. Their demand for gender-neutral fashion is behind what the article termed to be “a seismic shift” in clothing design and marketing. Add to that the fact that Gen Z has grown up with smartphones in their back pockets, and it becomes clear that social media is also a major contributor in the disruption of fashion and beauty norms. Whenever a gender-neutral fashion or beauty trend explodes on a social media platform like TikTok or Instagram, Gen Z is quick to adopt it and bring it into the mainstream. “Technology has opened people's eyes and there's more freedom during this time, in terms of self-expression,” said Sergio Guadarrama, founder of Celestino Couture, an eco-conscious and fashion-forward clothing brand. And it’s not just clothes. Gen Z guys are also embracing cosmetics. Milk
Makeup has reported that men account for 15 percent of its online clientele, and that this number is rapidly growing. Similarly, customers identifying as male make up 7 percent of popular cosmetics brand M.A.C’s customer base. Makeup-wearing men have been present for a long time in rock’n’roll, but it’s something different when the boy next door is wearing it, said John Demsey, the executive group president at Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. in New York City. Demsey shared these views in a 2018 Business of Fashion article about beauty for boys. “Men are obsessed with hair products and fragrance, it’s just now that the general audience is comfortable exploring what else is available for them,” he said in the article. Fenty, Rihanna’s makeup brand, dropped a new line of skin products in 2020 that had no division between men or women, and in 2019, makeup mega-retailer Sephora released its “Identify as We” campaign celebrating the trans and non-binary community. The ads promoted a community "where diversity is expected, self-expression is honored, all are welcomed, and you are included." And these are just a few examples of recent makeup brands moving into the gender-neutral space. When it comes to marketing cosmetics to Gen Z, this approach represents the future of the industry, said Sam Cheow, senior vice president of corporate innovation and product development at Estée Lauder, in a 2020 Harper’s Bazaar article on genderless beauty. “Traditional male/female ideology is obsolete to this generation of consumers.” Social media’s non-binary style momentum isn’t just skin-deep – it’s also about what everyone is wearing. The dramatic increase in social media posts featuring gender-bending fashion have driven the blurring of the binary lines in mainstream fashion. It has allowed for widespread exposure to more progressive ideals, leading to broader acceptance of these once-taboo topics. “Now somebody in a rural area can just log on to TikTok and see these fashions,” said Ethan Lascity, fashion media professor at Southern Methodist University in Dallas, Texas. “If you're experiencing people of different genders or gender fluid individuals then the idea isn't totally foreign to you.” In October 2020, Adidas opened a completely gender-neutral retail space in London’s Soho district aimed to draw in Gen Z customers. To engage this demographic Adidas focused on inclusivity and sustainability, a decision driven by consumer research and feedback of younger staff members, said Chris Walsh, Vice President of Adidas UK, in a 2020 WindowsWear article on the opening. Instead of dividing items by gender, Adidas grouped them by theme or sport, a merchandising decision driven by gender-neutrality. “People don't want to be defined by what someone tells them is right for them or isn’t,” said Walsh in the article. “We just produce the best shoes and allow people to adopt them however they want to.” Once limited to the stage, non-binary fashion and beauty trends are now becoming the norm, and Guaddarma believes there’s no going back. “The future,” he said, will continue to be about “taking out all of the norms that society and fashion has reinforced.” Harry Styles may have been the first solo Vogue cover man, but it seems inevitable that he won’t be the last.
“People don’t want to be defined by what someone tells them is right for them or isn’t”
Spring/Summer 21 • 33
Just For You TikTok’s user base has exploded, and creators are eager to monetize the puzzling platform By Mary-Wesley Maddox
Since starting her TikTok account in November 2019, Isabella Duffy has posted daily vlogs, showed off her special effects makeup skills, and partnered with multiple brands to promote products. Duffy, an SMU sophomore, has built a following of over 100,000 followers and 6.5 million likes with her fashion-forward content, and sometimes she doesn’t even understand why. The platform’s addictive algorithm has allowed many creators to experience unbridled growth, yet it can be difficult to rein in the high level of engagement for monetization. Following the coronavirus lockdown, TikTok has undergone a transition in both the content and user base, and it appears that the app is here to stay as a social media powerhouse. However, companies and influencers like Duffy, are still navigating how to successfully monetize content and sell products on the platform at the level of competitors like Instagram and YouTube. “TikTok’s algorithm has changed a lot,” said Duffy, who began rapidly gaining likes and followers at the start of the coronavirus quarantine. “It’s way harder now to gain a loyal audience even if your video goes
34 • SMU LOOK
viral. TikTok changed the algorithm so it would only reward people who post very often.” The trend cycle on TikTok is rapidly changing and the algorithm rewards frequent watchers who stay updated with burgeoning culture and style movements. The app’s algorithm changes often and its criteria is not publicly available. For brands trying to grow a following on TikTok, this means having a full-time social media correspondent to stay on top of popular content. Sloan Byrd found success on her personal TikTok account by creating niche content about her modeling career and her boyfriend. Since being hired as a content creator for the Dallas-based fashion brand Koch, she has grown the @shop_koch account to over 22,000 followers and 600,000 likes. She combined her knowledge of the algorithm with trial-and-error to find what works best to advertise the Koch brand. “I am on TikTok all the time,” said Byrd. “ I am just trying to figure out what’s trending right now and what sounds people are using. And then I find trends that align with our brand identity.” For a smaller brand like Koch, it can be beneficial to obtain a loyal audience on TikTok. Byrd says the company finds the most success with personal videos that feature founder Nicole Musselman and the Koch team. She adds that TikTok giveaways have been an effective way to gain exposure and direct people to the Koch website. As a small business with limited resources, Koch has prioritized growing its own account over using influencer marketing on TikTok. Many brands take this approach, because creators cannot accurately gauge how a video will perform on the algorithm. Duffy’s following on TikTok has led to many brand partnerships, and she prefers the creativity of TikTok’s short video format in comparison with other platforms like Instagram. However, she notices a difference in engagement on posts that involve brand collaboration. “My sponsored posts don’t always do as well as my regular posts,” she said. But “as long as the video is what the brand wants and I get paid, I typically don’t mind if the views are lower.” According to the MIT study “Study on Social Media Marketing Campaign Strategy - TikTok and Instagram’’ by Jessie Boxin Mou, TikTok continues to implement new tools to help companies succeed through
in-app and influencer marketing. While there is a certain risk associated with advertising on an unpredictable platform, Mou says that with clearly defined goals and target markets, TikTok marketing campaigns can bring success to companies. “A company runs a risk of not at least seeing if TikTok can work for them,” said Scott Talan, a social media expert and public and strategic communication professor at American University in Washington, D.C. “If they do jump in and then work with influencers they should still be active on their own site. It keeps their options open and increases chances for connecting.” The popularity of TikTok is undeniable, but the marketing strategies for companies can have varied results. In the 2020 study “Navigating the New Era of Influencer Marketing: How to be Successful on Instagram, TikTok, & Co.,” the authors note the importance of diversifying paid content, as well as authent ic it y on s o c i a l media being a key to success. For influencer marketing, it is beneficial to create spon sored post s with an organic feel and avoid obviously staged or scripted content. Organic content does very well on TikTok, and as a result, products can go viral with no concentrated effort by the company. One of the most recent examples is the Revlon One-Step Hair Dryer and Volumizer, which sold out on Amazon for weeks after trending on TikTok. Brands have tried to replicate this success with sponsored hashtags, manufactured video trends and in-platform advertisements, but most viral products seem to come from a genuine user recommendation followed by a rapid growth in consumer purchases. Duffy appreciates TikTok’s creativity and interactivity, because she said it feels more authentic. Only time will tell if this growing platform will become a social media mainstay.
Spring/Summer 21 • 35
Must Know
Mustangs
By Maria Chammas
RaSun Kazadi SMU Junior Football Player and Non-Profit Founder Hometown: Waco, Texas Major: Creative Advertising Minors: CCPA and Graphic Design Wardrobe Staple: A beanie Fashion Icon: A$AP Rocky
Dallas native Mona El-Gharby did not originally plan to become a Mustang; now, she’s a graduating senior who loves SMU. She began her time on the Hilltop majoring in pre-med, but she soon realized her true passion was empowering women through beauty. So, in a determined manner, Mona started a custom luxury hair product company for wavy to coily hair called CURLē. The company launched in January 2021. Mona also co-hosts the Seeing Colo(u)rs podcast with her Australian counterpart across the world. Seeing Colo(u)rs is all about creating productive conversation around controversial topics. Mona serves as president of the Middle Eastern Student Association, is a Hilltop and Honors Scholar, and is active in the human rights program.
Taggert Hudson SMU Sophomore and USA Bobsled/Skeleton Development Team Member Hometown: San Antonio, Texas Major: Environmental Engineering Wardrobe Staple: Tommy Bahama Shirts Fashion Icon: Jimmy Buffett
36 • SMU LOOK
Ra-Sun Kazadi is a well-rounded guy. He plays safety for SMU’s football team and has been training tirelessly for the upcoming season. But Ra isn’t just a jock, he’s also an artist. He enjoys being creative, particularly using acrylics, charcoals and oil-based pens to create moving pieces of artwork. He loves his creative advertising major because it allows him to combine his artistic nature with his business acumen. Ra is also involved in SMU’s Black Unity Forum and Black Student Athlete Committee. Among all that, Ra somehow found time to co-found The Detente Collective, a nonprofit organization aimed at serving underfunded communities. In his free time, Ra kicks back and watch a romantic comedies or read a good book.
Mona El-Gharby SMU Senior and Haircare Brand Owner Hometown: Dallas, Texas Majors: Biology and Business Management Minor: Human Rights Wardrobe Staple: Jewelry Fashion Icon: Coco Chanel
Taggert Hudson is the youngest athlete to ever be accepted to USA bobsled and skeleton rookie camp. He stumbled upon the opportunity in 2018 while he was applying to colleges. He happened to be visiting the Air Force Academy while rookie camp try-outs were being held in Colorado; Taggert decided to give it a shot. He ended up scoring high enough to make the team, even though he was the youngest person there by five years. Now, Taggert trains to earn a spot on the national team for the 2026 Winter Olympics. He is active on SMU’s campus as a member of the SMU Honors Program, Beta Theta Pi, Theta Tau engineering fraternity and the Student Alliance Against Human Trafficking. When he’s not in skeleton training, Taggert enjoys fishing and golfing.
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