3 minute read
Concept Barbering — Clipper and Scissor Techniques
josh davies Four Ways to Wow with Clippers
JOTH DAVIES, MASTER BARBER AND OWNER OF SAVILLS BARBERS IN SHEFFIELD, GIVES THE LOWDOWN ON THE TECHNIQUES CLIPPERS WERE MADE FOR.
THE FADE
When zero/skin fading always start with a base line using the zero setting on your clippers to work from. The line position will depend on the density of the hair and head shape. Once the base line has been created, simply work down using your guards. Work through number 3, number 2, number 1.5, number 1, and finally number 0.5. Always work in parallel lines, matching your base line until the line disappears.
TEXTURED LONG LAYERS
To create texture on long layers or remove thickness, I use the Wahl Chrome styler with the “All-In-One blade” attachment. Start with the longest setting and pull a one-inch traveling horizontal section of hair starting from the nape. Apply a light pressure from the mid-length and pull through to the ends of the hair. This works like a texturising scissor, peeling equal parts of the hair and removing weight.
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CLIPPER/SCISSOR COMBO
This technique is ideal for the client who prefers more scalp coverage and normally requests a scissor cut. Generally, these clients want to keep approximately one to two inches in length on the back and sides.
Use a larger guard – number 6 to 8, depending on the length required. Once you have removed the bulk with the clipper and guard, use your scissors to refine the ends of the hair and create a softer finish. This will result in a softer scissor finish haircut and your client will always have a consistent length.
CURLY HAIR
When hair is curly and wraps around your fingers while club cutting the top section, it becomes difficult to cut. You risk cutting yourself as well as the hair. Try using your clippers instead. This allows you to easily cut through the hair without causing any damage to your fingers.
Charlie cullen
Making the Blade
CHARLIE CULLEN, OF CHARLIE CULLEN EDUCATION AT JOE AND CO, LONDON LOOKS AT HOW VERSATILE SCISSORS CAN BE AND FIVE KEY TECHNIQUES YOU CAN USE TO CREATE AN EXPERT FINISH.
KEY TECHNIQUES
01 When Point cutting the scissors need to be almost parallel to the hair when cutting, which will result in a much softer cutting line. The deeper the scissor goes into the hair, the softer the result. 02 When cutting scissor over comb, make sure the bottom blade controlled by your fingers is stationary and the blade controlled by your thumb is the only one to open and close. This results in a clean finish with no lines or scissor marks. 03 The speed of the scissors should be faster than the movement of the comb, allowing enough time for the blades to close then open again for the next area above. 04 On precision shapes it’s always best to clean the perimeter line when dry by slightly tilting the head in the opposite direction, combing the hair into its natural fall and very shallow point cutting the perimeter edge. This gives a sharp line with less graduation 05 Twist cutting can be a great way to remove weight with curly hair as you create no damage to the cuticle (compared to slicing.) Simply take a wet inch-squared section, twist all the way from root to tip, place scissors three quarters of way down towards the tip and squeeze the blades – don’t shut them completely — to seamlessly remove weight while enhancing curl.
