S Magazine - Early Winter 2015

SWISS INFLUENCE ON CANADIAN SKIING

THE BIG 3 CANADA’S EUROPEAN

SKI EUROPE

HIDDEN GEMS OF THE ALPS Chamonix, Moena, Haslital, Alta Badia, Andermatt

SVINDAL CONFESSIONS OF A SKI JUNKIE

+

LOST IN THE DOLOMITES LA BOMBA VS. STEIN ERIKSEN LIFT LINE TRICKS THE GURU OF GRAPPA

EARLY WINTER 2015 $4.95 VOLUME 9, ISSUE 1

CANADA POST PUBLICATION AGREEMENT # 42084025

PIONEERS

Conquer the city.

audi.ca/Q3

#ConquerTheCity

©2014 Audi Canada. *2015 Audi Q3 models come standard with 473 litres of cargo space and Hill Assist. quattro All-Wheel Drive is available on 2015 Audi Q3 quattro Progressiv and Technik models. European model shown. Some features not available on Canadian model. To find out more about Audi, visit your Audi dealer, call 1-800-FOR-AUDI, or visit us at audi.ca. “Audi”, “Q3”, “Vorsprung durch Technik”, and the four rings emblem are registered trademarks of AUDI AG.

The all-new, agile Audi Q3.

Finally, a compact SUV engineered to conquer city life. Whether it’s a tight parking spot, afternoon gridlock, or an impromptu shopping spree, the Q3 was designed to overcome it all. That’s why it’s equipped with features like Hill Assist, quattro® All-Wheel Drive, and generous trunk space.* The city awaits, so conquer away.

P: David McColm

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star struck?

Clearly we’ve made an impression.

North America’s number one rated ski destination…again.

WATCH THE VIDEO whistlerblackcomb.com/impressions

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Designed for the

next generation.

From combination steam-convection ovens and gourmet warming drawers to machines, the new Generation 6000 suite offers the perfect combination of app home and your healthy lifestyle.

We call it Design for Life. miele.ca

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o built-in coffee pliances for your

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CLAIM YOUR TERRAIN RE V 85 PRO D O YO U S E E K F U N A L L OV E R T H E M O U N TA I N ? T H A N K S T O H E A D ’ S R E VO L U T I O N A R Y E R A 3.0 T EC H N O LO G Y, A N Y T E R R A I N I S YO U R P L AYG R O U N D .

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IN THIS ISSUE

EARLY WINTER 2015

35 DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

10 ED NOTE Euro Dreamin’

24

13

Clockwise from top left: Matteo Zanga, Caroline van’t Hoff, John Evely.

24

FIRST LOAD Most stylish skiers ever,

lift line tricks

20

PEAK PIX Euro props: European

pioneers that shaped Canadian skiing

60

ELEVATED LIVING The Guru of Grappa

64

TIPS UP Skiing with style

SOLD ON ANDERMATT

Metamorphosis of the Swiss destination is nearly complete; authentic old-world charm redefines this classic village. By Julie Nieuwenhuys. Photos by Caroline van ‘t Hoff

35 LOST IN THE DOLOMITES Versatility in Italy’s grandest ski mountain

range – where old meets new – is as vast as the sprawling jagged tops. By Ryan Stuart.

Photos by Matteo Zanga

43 CONFESSIONS OF A SKI JUNKIE

66 PARTING SHOT The outback →On the cover: Chamonix, France, in the heart of the Haute Savoie region of south-eastern France in the Mont Blanc valley. Photo © Gavin Hellier / Alamy

World’s best ski racer continues his quest to

51

conquer all aspects of the mountain.

By Michael Mastarciyan & Gordie Bowles.

Photos by Frode Sandbech.

EYES WIDE OPEN

51

Revelling in the majestic, yet humble, Lake Louise and the elegant Post Hotel.

By Claire Challen. Photos by John Evely & Frankie Miller

A Canadian Classic p. 17 snowsportsculture.com

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Turn right, turn left, repeat as necessary.

Winter 2015, Vol. 9, No. 1

EDITORIAL /ART / PRODUCTION EDITOR Gordie Bowles ART DIRECTOR Aprile Elcich MANAGING EDITOR Don Cameron SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Paul Morrison SENIOR WRITERS Michael Mastarciyan, Ryan Stuart EDITORIAL & DESIGN

Euro Dreamin’

Fresh Air Publishing

europe is the pinnacle of ski travel. Laid-back mornings, the perfect cappuccino, big

mountain adventurous skiing, gourmet lunches and cobblestone après at its finest. It’s a world away from North America’s sometimes quick fix pizza and bad coffee.

Skiing is the anchor of life in the Alps and to experience this first hand is a privilege.

Whether it’s the powder of Andermatt, Switzerland (Sold on Andermatt, page 24), the vast and endless mountains of Italy (Lost in the Dolomites, page 35), or the unstoppable desire to find a new thrill in the Alps (Svindal: Confessions of a Ski Junkie, page 45), adventure options are limited only by your imagination. You can even experience a taste of Europe in our own backyard (Eyes Wide Open, page 53) where the Post Hotel has perfected the art of European-style hosting.

My best-ever day of skiing came exploring the Grand Montets at Chamonix, France.

After taking the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the top of Mont Blanc, our local guide lead us on a head-spinning series of couloir adventures, where our group emerged in a village a few kilometres down the valley – similar to the scene on the cover. We walked into the cobblestone streets for a demi panache (half beer, half sprite ... it’s better than it sounds) before hitchhiking back to our hotel. It was a trip I still dream about and would love to repeat. My new dream ski trip would be hitting up Kitzbühel, Austria, to take in the Hahnenkahm races, where thousands of flag-waving fans line the slopes and endless skiing awaits just beyond. We would descend on the perfect slopeside chalet where a five-star fondue feast – with an ideal pairing of an Austrian Zweigelt – awaits (perhaps first a quick stop at the legendary Londoner for a pint of Gösser). Dreams.

CONTRIBUTORS Trevor Brady, Claire Challen, John Evely, Josh Foster, Frankie Miller, Julie Nieuwenhuys, Michel Painchaud, Edith Rozsa, Graham Roumieu, Frode Sandbech, Caroline van ‘t Hoff.

Publication Agreement No. 42084025 Canada Post No. 7309575 ISSN: 1913-9861 ADVERTISING Mark Kristofic mark@s-media.ca SNOWSPORTS MEDIA INCORPORATED PRESIDENT Chris Robinson, chris@s-media.ca VICE PRESIDENT Mark Kristofic, mark@s-media.ca BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Ashley Herod Tait, ashley@s-media.ca CONTROLLER Lisa Crowley, lisa@s-media.ca

S-Magazine is an independent publication of Snowsports Media Inc. 82 Hume Street Collingwood, Ont., L9Y 1V4 Phone: 416-840-6615 Fax: 416-929-3945 E-mail: info@s-media.ca www.snowsportsculture.com

GO DIGITAL Gordie Bowles, editor 10 S–MAGAZINE | snowsportsculture.com

Check out snowsportsculture.com for tips, gear, destination and exclusive Ski Television episodes.

Trevor Brady

Whatever tickles your fancy, there’s never been a better time to ski the old continent.

PERFORMANCE ENHANCED DOWN.

PERFORMANCE ENHANCED DOWN

columbia.com

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FIRST LOAD →People, news, gadgets and other chairlift ramblings

SKIPARAZZI.........13 SKIBIZ..................14 GEAR..................17 SNOWBYTES......16 PEAK PIX........... 20

HIGH FASHION AT ASPEN The furs come out in full force during the Aspen International Fashion Week in early spring, showcasing the latest in ski fashion from the top snowsports brands. Fashionistas and celebrities don the red carpet during the runway fashion shows, set amongst the unique, open-air venue at the base of Aspen Mountain. Designer forums, après ski events, boutique and in-store events and evening runway parties make this event a who’s who. MARCH 12-14, 2015 snowsportsculture.com

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MOST STYLISH SKIERS EVER

They were as influential off the slopes as they were on. Introducing the alltime most stylish men’s alpine ski racers.

FIRST LOAD SKIPARAZZI........ 13 SKIBIZ................. 14 GEAR.................. 17 SNOWBYTES...... 16 PEAK PIX............ 20

GOLD STEIN ERIKSEN The Norwegian-born great is the the epitome of skiing style. Even at 87, the Olympic gold medallist – who moved the the U.S. shortly after the 1952 Olympics – wines, dines and smooth talks as the director of skiing at the classy Deer Valley resort in Utah.

SILVER ALBERTO TOMBA

The Italian La Bomba, rose to the top of the skiing world as a brash, aggressive skier, with throngs of women waiting in the finish area. Let’s not forget he became the first skier to medal in three different Olympic games and claimed 50 World Cup races.

BRONZE JEAN-CLAUDE KILLY

Raised in the French Alps, the son of a shop owner learned to ski early, and quickly learned to win. The pinnacle of his career – three gold medals at the 1968 Games – etched this handsome skier into worldwide stardom.

Close to the podium mentions: Bode Miller, Franz Klammer, Erik Guay, Aksel Lund Svindal, Alexandre Bilodeau

“I USED TO HAVE A WILD TIME WITH THREE WOMEN UNTIL 5 A.M., BUT I AM GETTING OLDER. IN THE OLYMPIC VILLAGE HERE, I WILL LIVE IT UP WITH FIVE WOMEN, BUT ONLY UNTIL 3 A.M.” – Alberto Tomba.

BEST NEW SKI APPS SkiTracks With its GPS tracking, this nearly free ($0.99) app plots out exactly where you’ve skied on a satellite map and provides other cool details like distance, speed, altitude and time skiing. Battery burden: minimal Ski: Europe Mega stats, snow reports and resort maps make this app a useful tool for Europe travellers. The route guidance option is

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worth the $0.99 alone, which helps navigate the complicated world of European backroads. Battery burden: moderate.

Old-school mobile: Alpine Racer In the Alpine Racer app game, players can do aerial tricks and attempt to win the King of the Mountain challenge course in 3D. Free, although there is a fee for the full version. Battery burden: moderate.

LIFT LINE TRICKS Think you're wasting precious ski time waiting for friends, family and lift lines? Think again, these are the idle moments to perfect these important and attention grabbing non-skiing skills. – Ryan Stuart POLE BALANCING HOW TO:

BEST ADVENTURE APRÉS

Just cause the lifts stopped spinning doesn't mean the fun needs to end. – Ryan Stuart 1. Maligne Canyon Icewalk

4. Le Massif De Charlevoix Sledding

MARMOT BASIN

LE MASSIF

When this slot canyon freezes it becomes a mysterious world of ice that only gets more interesting in the glow of a headlamp during a guided evening tromp. $59; maligneadventures.com

Forget the bunny hill. This sled run begins near the top of the mountain and ends 7.5 kilometres later. The run includes a snowcat shuttle and a hot drink mid-run. $36; lemassif.com

2. Whistler Bounce WHISTLER-BLACKCOMB

5. Jay Peak Pumphouse Indoor Waterpark

Like an indoor skate park covered in matts and trampolines this is the place to come to hone your D-spin or just bounce off the walls, literally. $23 for 2 hours; whistlerbounce.com

Not just a collection of wicked water slides.

There's a surfing wave, a massive lazy river and La Chute, a 70-kilometre hour adrenaline rush. $35; jaypeakresort.com

3. Big White Ice Climbing tower

6. Silver Star Fat Biking

BIG WHITE

SILVER STAR

Take four telephone poles, a lot of water and add freezing temps and you get a 60-foot tall, four sided ice climbing tower with something for every climbing ability. From $25; bigwhite.com

The 10 centimetre wide tires on "fat bikes" allow them to float on snow and grip ice, turning a couple trails at the nordic area into a winter biking playground. From $10 per hour bike rental; skisilverstar.com

JAY PEAK

Nothing like its dancing brethren, but with equal opportunity to hurt yourself, take the tip of one pole and place it in the hole of the other pole’s basket. Let go and see how long you can balance it.

UP THE ANTE: Do it while skiing or balance the pole on your chin. Or both.

HANDS FREE SKI LIFT HOW TO: You’ve seen ski racers do it, lifting their ski from the snow to their hand without bending over. The secret is momentum. Hook the toe of your boot under the lip of the front binding. Lift the ski from your knee in a smooth up and in motion. Catch it with one hand.

UP THE ANTE: The same but with telemark bindings.

JUMPING BINDING ENTRY HOW TO: Rather than click into each binding individually, jump into both skis in one motion. Position the skis on flat ground, just under shoulder width apart. Stand with one foot beside each ski, holding poles.

Now jump, stabilizing yourself with the poles, and aim your toes at the front of the binding. Line up your leap right and you’ll click in smoothly.

UP THE ANTE: Take a run at it, jumping from the tails of your skis.

Photo: Big White, by David Gibson

Photo: Silver Star Mountain Resort snowsportsculture.com

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MADE IN CANADA GEAR As Canadian as … apparently, ski gear. Canada may be known for producing many things – maple syrup, beaver pelts, smoked salmon, annoying musicians – but one we should be better known for is ski gear. Here are five examples of products that were not only designed in Canada but made here too.

– Ryan Stuart

KAMIK SUGARLOAF Canadian connection: Based in Lachine, Quebec, Kamik makes many of its winter boots in two Canadian factories and has been owned by the same Quebec family since 1932. The product: Designed for shuffling through slushy parking lots and long tobogganing sessions, these waterproof women's boots have three layers of insulation to keep feet warm to -40C. $90; kamik.com

CANADA GOOSE CANYON SHELL

PRIOR HUSUME Canadian connection: Company founder Chris Prior started building snowboards in his North Vancouver garage before moving to a modern factory in Whistler where his team still hand presses every board and ski. The product: Named after a backcountry run off Blackcomb, the Husume is a versatile pair of sticks as on its namesake run as carving the steeps inbounds. And like all Prior skis, buyers can pick their base and top sheet graphics. From $900; priorsnow.com

Canadian connection: Canada Goose may have been sold to Boston-based Bain Capital in 2013, but the company's roots go back more than 55 years in Ontario and all manufacturing is still 100 percent Canadian. The product: Canada Goose's expertise extend beyond down to proprietary waterproof, breathable and stretchy membrane, like in this shell, that brilliantly deflects wind and wet while maintaining a comfortable interior climate. $595; canadagoose.com

WESTCOMB MADISON BOMBER Canadian connection: After years designing outdoor apparel for other brands, Alan Yiu decided to start Westcomb, partnering with his family's speciality sewing house in east Vancouver where all of the company's cutting edge apparel is hand made. The product: Synthetic insulation is warm when wet. Down is packable and warm. By stuffing the water repellant soft shell Madison with Primaloft's Down Gold Blend, a combo of feathers and fibres, Westcomb achieves the best of both. westcomb.com

G3 ION Canadian connection: Started as a telemark binding company G3 expanded into all kinds of backcountry gear and an impressive spectrum of skis. While much of it is made overseas, its skins and alpine touring bindings are still assembled in its North Vancouver factory. The product: Their newest innovation, the Ion is a lightweight alpine touring binding designed not just for going up, but for charging down with full DIN and optional ski brakes. $570; genuineguidegear.com

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FIRST LOAD SKIPARAZZI.........13 SKIBIZ..................14 GEAR..................17 SNOWBYTES......16 PEAK PIX........... 20

FIDO FRIENDLY RESORTS

FROM THE VAULT

Pet owners know how tough it is to leave behind a furry friend. The logistics and anxiety causes multiple headaches, hindering the overall travel experience.

Good thing that many ski resorts are catching on and welcoming pets to stay in some of the guest rooms. Here are some of the best.

WHEN SKIING WAS UBER COOL

You just gotta love the enthusiasm of this skier rocking these bat-like goggles and matching red hood and gloves.

HOW TO SAUNA: NAKED ... OR NOT?

— G. Bowles

1. ASPEN – The Little Nell 2. SUTTON PLACE HOTEL – Revelstoke Mountain Resort

If you’re reading this in your birthday suit then we know which way you sauna: the Euro way. But how naked do you need to be in the sauna? If your bashful Canadian nature is getting the best of you, Europeans likely won’t kick you to the curb but it's your loss for missing out on the sauna experience in its purest form, right?

Note: If you do go nude sit on a towel.

Also, leave the speedos at home.

3. KILLINGTON – Mountain Top Inn

–G. Bowles

10. JACKSON HOLE – Snow King Resort

4. WHISTLER – Fairmont Chateau 5. MT. BACHELOR – Sunriver Resort 6. SQUAW VALLEY – Plump Jack Squaw Valley Inn 7. BIG WHITE – Sundance 8. STOWE – Stowe Mountain Lodge 9. TELLURIDE – The Mountain Lodge

SET, MATCH ...

BUT NOT LOVE Two megastars in their respective sports – Roger Federer and Lindsey Vonn – found a way to quasi combine their two sports for a battle during a promo spot for Lindt chocolate last summer.

During Vonn’s injury time out she tweeted Federer's way a challenge to play tennis together. Once the schedules lightened, Federer contacted Vonn, challenging her to a match on top of a glacier at 11,333 feet on the Jungfraujoch mountain.

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est. 1988

Experience our Version of Powder Therapy

Island Lake Lodge has been setting the catski standard for over 25 years. Our philosophy of unparalleled backcountry experiences is inspired by our history and spectacular surroundings.

With an average of 12 metres of snow per season, a variety of terrain, fine-dining and great lodging you can see how people become addicted to our brand of powder therapy.

Call and ask about cat-assisted ski touring this April

islandlakecatskiing.com

1.888.422.8754

Skier: Cody Barnhill - Photo: Mike McPhee snowsportsculture.com

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FIRST LOAD SKIPARAZZI.........13 SKIBIZ..................14 GEAR..................17 SNOWBYTES......16 PEAK PIX........... 20

EURO PROPS Let’s face it, skiing is a European sport. Ok, we borrowed it from them and made it even better, but the roots of travelling over snow on skis had its origins (mid-1800s) in Scandanavia. Some history buffs have made claim that the actual origin of skiing was as early as 600 BC in what is now China, while others say it originated as early as 6000 BC in Russia (see sidebar on p.23). But for sake of brevity, let’s go with this: Norwegians started the modern sport of skiing, Europeans made it popular and North Americans dialed it in. As we pay homage to our European brethren in this issue of S-Mag, we recognize the influence of European skiing in the development of skiing in North America. — G. Bowles

KIMBERLEY

SQUAW VALLEY

The yodeling cuckoo clock is a not-so-subtle clue that Kimberley, a Bavarian-inspired small resort community in the B.C. Rockies, has embraced the European theme from A to Z. Wienerschnitzel? You got it. Geschnetzeltes? Of course. Spatzle? Hell yeah. Skiing and golf are the mainstays of this picturesque little community in the heart of the Kootenays and you will need to save up for the caloric explosion at the Platzl. Suggest dining at The Old Bauernhaus, a Bavarian farmhouse just minutes from the slopes.

For more: hellobc.com/kimberley

Skiing at night might be a cultural norm in Europe, but in North American it’s mostly a rarity. Squaw Valley’s Nachtspektakel (try: knocked-shpeck-tockle) – traditional European-style night ski touring – takes tourers of all abilities to the high alpine for a unique food and drink backcountry experience.

For more: squaw.com

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ABOVE: KIMBERLEY, BY HENRI GEORGI

TELLURIDE

SUN PEAKS

SQUAW VALLEY

EDELWEISS VILLAGE The Canadian Pacific Railway wanted to make their Swiss employees (see sidebar: The Golden Age) feel more at home while their mountain explorations were based out of Golden, B.C., so they constructed a Swiss-chalet enclave, called Edelweiss Village. Today the original homes stand overlooking Golden as as reminder of this part of its history.

For more: tourismgolden.com

TELLURIDE It may ooze American history – Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank here – but the eye-popping views at Telluride rival anything in Europe. Consistently ranking near the top in reader’s polls in the scenic category, this charming historic town in the San Juan Mountains has a free gondola ride to the elegant and quaint mountain village. For more: telluride.com

THE GOLDEN AGE: SWISS GUIDES RESHAPE THE CANADIAN ROCKIES The year was 1898, with the Canadian tourism industry in a lull, when the Canadian Pacific Railway engaged in a brilliant plan to bring over a couple dozen Swiss mountain guides to add a spark to the cultural heritage of the mountains ... and a voice as to how they should be explored.

Their impact was quick and lasting; peaks were named after them. Pioneers like Christian Haesler, Ernst Feuz and Walter Perren – three of the group of Swiss guides who conquered over 50 ascents of 3,000-metre mountains in the Rockies in their first years – kickstarted a mountaineering culture in Canada while forging a renewed friendship between the Canadians and Swiss.

“SINCE WE CAN'T EXPORT THE SCENERY, WE SHALL IMPORT THE TOURISTS.” – William Van Horne, Canadian Pacific Railway executive.

SUN PEAKS Kick yourself in the butt with a strong espresso at Bolacco Cafe in the heart of the Tyrolean-styled Sun Peaks Village before you hit the slopes. Euro-style lodging, like the Hearthstone Lodge, is set amongst the pastel-coloured Village dotted with shops, art galleries, creperies and cafes. Sounds like Europe to me.

For more: sunpeaksresort.com

The railway advertised Canada’s mountain parks as “50 Switzerlands in one” and promoted the role guides played in enjoyable and safe mountain travel. The guides introduced safe climbing techniques, and helped establish in Canadians a sense of appreciation for mountain environments. With a shortage of employment in Switzerland at the time, the timing was perfect. Enjoyed by thousands each year, the trails, and mountaineering culture are the legacy of the Swiss Guides.

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HANS GMOSER

FIRST LOAD SKIPARAZZI.........13 SKIBIZ..................14 GEAR..................17 SNOWBYTES......16 PEAK PIX........... 20

FRANZ WILHELMSEN

JOZO WEIDER

THE BIG THREE THAT SHAPED CANADIAN SKIING There were many European entrepreneurs who pioneered a new way to enjoying mountain life in Canada. We recognize three men who were instrumental in paving the path.

— G. Bowles

FRANZ WILHELMSEN – DRIVING FORCE BEHIND WHISTLER

JOZO WEIDER – FOUNDER OF BLUE MOUNTAIN

If you haven’t tried Franz’s run on Whistler Mountain, you’re missing out. The run’s namesake, Franz Wilhelmsen, widely considered the founding father of Whistler, was like the trail: deep, complex, and following a winding path.

When Jozo Weider came to the Niagara Escarpment from Czechoslovakia in 1941, he had a dream to turn the slopes above farmland into a world-class ski resort. The dream was ambitious and many thought unrealistic, but today Blue Mountain hosts over 750,000 skier visits a year, making it the third most visited (Whistler and Tremblant sit one and two) in Canada.

The Norwegian business man who immigrated to Canada in 1941 – with his original goal to develop Fisherman’s Cove in Vancouver – made his mark when he hosted International Ski Federation pros in 1960 to search for a suitable area to host the 1968 Winter Olympics. In the following years, Franz and The Garibaldi Lift Company quickly galvanized Vancouverites when it opened the gates to the now mega-resort in February 1966. The buzz took ahold immediately, with flocks of people coming to take in the area’s rugged fishing, wilderness and, of course, skiing, in its Whistler abundance, rivaling its European counterparts like Zermatt, Val d’Isère and St. Anton. Although Wilhelmsen passed away in 1998 from cancer, his vision inspired today’s Whistler that is enjoyed by millions each year.

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Today’s village, built on what was once Weider’s hayfield, is covered with upscale cafés, restaurants and boutique shops. And the ski lift system, which began as two sleds drawn by a cable and powered by an old truck engine, now boasts 16 chairlifts that service 42 runs. By 1948, Weider cemented the arrangement by signing a three-way agreement with the Toronto Ski Club and the Blue Mountain Ski Club.

The barn on the Weiders’ land was turned into “The Ski Barn”, and became the hill's primary day lodge, drawing the centre of the hill to the south, and in 1959 the “Old South Chair” opened at

the extreme south end of the hill, connecting the now four-kilometre frontage the hill still has to this day. The Weider family sold off 50 percent of their interest to Intrawest in 1999 along with a 20-hectare parcel of land, where Intrawest would build the village.

HANS GMOSER – FOUNDER OF CMH Widely considered the father of modern mountaineering in Canada, Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser’s ambitious nature and outdoor adventures transformed skiing, and the ski-service industry.

The Austrian import’s first love was ascending mountains. Conquering many peaks in the 1950s and 60s, such as Mount Alberta, Mount Blackburn and Mount McKinley, Gmoser also served as a model of safety and proper mountaineering technique. In 1963, he became a founding member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides.

But where Gmoser left his most lasting mark was on heliskiing.

He founded Rocky Mountain Guides in 1957, which eventually became Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH), the largest mountain adventure operation in the world, and the catalyst for the heliskiing market that is enjoyed by thousands today.

SKIING HISTORY (CONDENSED) 6300-5000 BC: Estimated date of oldest skis (found in Russia, northwest of Moscow).

3300 BC: Salla ski was found in Finland in 1938: 180 cm long, about 15 cm wide.

900: Skis mentioned in 16th century by Bishop Oddur in Iceland.

1590: The Hämeenkyrö ski found in Finland with raised space under foot.

1609-1617: Skitroops were used for scouting in Fenno-Sweden battle against Russia.

1741: First depiction of skier with two poles.

1767: Prizes offered for military ski competitions in Norway.

1808: Ski troops fought in the war over Finland between Sweden and Russia.

1812: During retreat, Napoleon's forces were harrassed by Russians on skis.

1841: First reported skier in the United States (other than Alaska) in Illinois.

1843: First public skiing competition held in Tromso, Norway on March 19, 1843.

1850: Cambered ski introduced in Telemark, Norway.

1861: Alpine ski racing as an organized sport commences in America & Norway.

1862: First public ski jumping competition held at Trysil, Norway, Jan. 22, 1862.

1868: Mountain-accessible trains open.

1878: Norwegian introduce modern skis at pavilion.

1879: First recorded use of the word “slalom”.

1904: First ski race in Italy, at Bardonecchia.

1905: Foundation of the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Association.

1924: Formation of the International Ski Federation. Also, first Winter Olympics.

1910: First rope tow.

1914: Steamboat, Colorado ski hill opens for recreational skiing 1936: The first chair lift is launched at Sun Valley, Idaho.

1939: The release binding, the Saf-Ski, was invented by Hjalmar Hyam.

1939: Aluminum skis launched in France.

1952: Snow-making machinery introduced Sources: skiinghistory.org, wikipedia, history.fis-ski.com, pc.gc.ca

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THE EURO ISSUE / SWITZERLAND

SOL D O N A NDE R M AT T! METAMORPHOSIS OF THE SWISS DESTINATION IS NEARLY COMPLETE; AUTHENTIC OLD-WORLD CHARM MEETS NEW STANDARDS TO REDEFINE THIS CLASSIC VILLAGE

B Y

J U L I E

N I E U W E N H U Y S

P H O T O G R A P H Y C A R O L I N E

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V A N

‘ T

B Y

H O F F

A SHORT HIKE FROM THE TOP T-BAR IN DISENTIS AWAITS A HIDDEN UNTRACKED VALLEY. LOCAL GUIDE, ADI, LEADS THE WAY. snowsportsculture.com

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THE EURO ISSUE / SWITZERLAND

“THE HILLS ARE ALIVE WITH THE SOUND OF MUSIC...” WE SING AS OUR TRAIN MEANDERS THROUGH THE GREEN SWISS HILLS. We are three Dutch “powder babes” on a quest for some typical Swiss treats: mountains of cheese, chocolate, and of course our favorite snack, powder! This year, Caroline, Len and I are celebrating Easter in Andermatt and Disentis, two charming villages in the heart of the Swiss Alps.

RAILWAY TO HEAVEN A church sits on each hilltop above the rolling lush green meadows, the iconic red and white flag waving proudly. It feels like we have stepped into a tourism brochure, the landscape recreated with Swiss precision. From the panoramic windows on board the Glacier Express we see the massive Alps appear in the distance, with snow-covered tops and Toblerone-like peaks. We have exactly four minutes to make our connection, including all our ski bags, airbags and suitcases, but it’s fine – no delays for this red train. We get out in Disentis (pronounced as “This-and-this”) and can already

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hear the bells ringing in the huge Benedictine monastery that dates back to 720. As the monks are called to vespers, we know that our sacred ground lies almost 2,000 meters higher, where the slopes of Disentis await.

JODELAAHITII – THE ALPS IN ITS GLORY The next morning, the trees in the valley are covered with a fresh layer of snow: our prayers have been answered! We meet Adi, our friendly Swiss guide, in a near-empty gondola.

No powder stress today. In less than 15 minutes we ascend from 1,100 meters to almost 3,000, where the rugged mountains majestically tower over the clouds. Enchanted by this phenomenal view, we make our first runs through 20 centimeters of powder just beyond the quiet slopes. Pointing to a steep, untouched northern slope, Adi asks whether we feel like touring up. He doesn’t have to ask us twice, and pretty soon our skis are in touring mode and the first kick turn is quick to follow. From the top of a Swiss peak, we can look straight down into the spring green valley where cows are grazing and trees are blossoming. We conjure Swiss delicacies such as Alpine cheese and chunks of chocolate from our mobile minibar. For dessert, the virgin northern slope awaits, and we fly down it, amazed by the good quality of the snow.

Before I know it, I am at the bottom of the face, adrenaline racing through my body. I cheer when Len skis up with a huge

OPPOSITE PAGE: THE ICONIC RED AND WHITE SWISS FLAG WAVING PROUDLY IN THE VILLAGE OF ANDERMATT. SKIERS JULIE, LEN AND CAROLINE EXPLORE THE CHARMING ANDERMATT.

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THE SNOW IS LIGHT AS A FEATHER AND OUR SPRAY MISTS AND SPARKLES IN THE BRIGHT SUN.

ENCHANTED BY THE BLANKET OF CLOUDS AND TOBLERONE-LIKE PEAKS, JULIE PREPARES TO DROP IN. ADI LEADING US OP A NORTH FACE IN DISENTIS.

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smile on her face. What a fantastic feeling!

GEMSSTOCK: A FREERIDE PARADISE As the conductor’s whistle blows – exactly on time, of course – we leave Disentis behind us. The train slowly climbs uphill, and the surrounding mountains become increasingly rougher. As we cross the Oberalp Pass, we can’t help but notice the dozens of avalanche barriers on the Gemsstock: Andermatt’s freeride mountain. Brakes squealing, our train braves the steep hairpin turns on the way to our destination, which has a population almost equal to its elevation in meters: 1,444. With its many northern slopes and spectacular terrain, Andermatt has been high on our list of dream destinations for years. The microclimate guarantees lots of snow, and sure enough the flakes have also been falling here in the past few days!

We meet our guide Marco, who sports a deep goggle tan, at the top of the Gemsstock.

Before we hit the trail, we take time to admire the panoramic views. “We are in the heart of Switzerland and from here you can see half the country and about 600 peaks,” says Marco. It is truly stunning; I could spend the entire day gazing at these white giants, which look positively friendly today surrounded by blue skies. As we do a pieps check, Marco points out the various powder possibilities. I had always been under the impression that Andermatt was synonymous with serious powder battles, but this late in the season we are practically the only freeriders.

The snow is light as a feather and our spray mists and sparkles in the bright sun.

We ski the best snow of the trip, and possibly the best snow that I have ever skied so late in the season. Everywhere we look we see beautiful couloirs that are no more than a short traverse, hike or tour away; an abundance of possibilities! Later, when the snow has become too heavy, it is time for a beer in the hot sun, a spring skiing must!

Cheerful German Schlager music is coming from the “Schirm,” a little bar set up in an open tent on the mountain. When Caroline decides to turn the bar into a disco, the party really gets going. Eventually, after the sun has set we all conga into the last gondola while the Swiss après-ski hit of 2014 “Ein, zwei, drei ... bezoffen ...” echoes deep in the valley.

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THE FUTURE OF ANDERMATT We can hardly believe our eyes the next morning when we see a Dutch city bike parked in front of the bakery. The owner is none other than Marja, a Rotterdam native who has lived here for years. Soon we are sitting down with her for breakfast and a crash course in Andermatt’s colourful history.

Up until 10 years ago, the village served as a military base, with some 70,000 soldiers stationed here. Defense not only powered the entire economy, it also took a toll on the mountains: according to Marja, the dozens of bunkers turned them into Swiss

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cheese. After the Cold War ended, the barracks closed and Andermatt’s future was uncertain for many years. This all changed after the Egyptian billionaire Samih Sawiris saw the unused land from his airplane and proceeded to close a megadeal. Suddenly, sleepy little Andermatt’s future looked very different. According to Samih’s plans, it will be transformed into Switzerland’s ultimate new high-end ski destination, with an emphasis on preserving the village’s authentic charm. The skiing area, too, will undergo a complete metamorphosis.

For starters, three new lifts will be built to connect the Sedrun ski resort located on the east side of the Oberalp Pass with Andermatt, creating 120 kilometers of

extra trails on accessible southern slopes, ideal for families. For now, the Gemsstock will be left untouched. Nearly everyone that we speak to in Andermatt – like Marco and Marja – are extremely optimistic about Samih’s plans. In 2007, 96 percent of the local residents voted in favor of these investments. Of course, it remains to be seen whether this massive investment will ever be recovered, even with the advent of foreign buyers and the proximity to both Zurich (110 km) and Milan (180 km). But one thing is assured: Andermatt is a unique village that is no stranger to reinvention.

Whether it is the snow, the landscape, or the renewed sense of hope, something is thriving in Andermatt ... we are sold!

PASSION AND CRAFTSMANSHIP: ZAI Simon Jacomet is the passionate and charismatic owner of Zai; a ski factory in the center of Disentis. The view of the mountain undeniably provides the necessary inspiration.

The elegant skis are made from predominantly natural and sustainable materials that last for years.

Appropriately, “zai” means “tough” in Rhaeto-Romanic, the dialect spoken in Disentis. The top sheets are made of leather, wood, natural rubber, treated felt, and even stone.

As beautiful as the skis are designwise, Simon assures us that the functionality of the ski is really what it’s all about: “Zai is about reduction to the essential in the quest for natural balance; our ski is a quiet statement of individuality and control,” Jacomet says. Evidently he is the chief tester, which means he can be found on the slopes on any given day, testing out his latest pair of Bentleys, for example. That would be a Bentley ski, not car. Working as partners, Zai and Bentley Motors have designed an entirely new prototype that uses a piece of stone from the Gotthard Massif. We are in no hurry to leave after the tour and as we are browsing around, I observe Simon re-greasing a leather top sheet for the “Bally” ski, which is made from the same leather as the famous Swiss footwear of the same name. The way he polishes each spot with such care and patience, it is obvious that this craftsman is clearly in his element.

“A ZAI SKI IS A QUIET STATEMENT OF INDIVIDUALITY AND CONTROL. IT DOES NOT REQUIRE BRIGHT LOGOS AND GRAPHICS,” SAYS SIMON, THE CHARISMATIC OWNER OF ZAI.

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ZEN & ALPINE CHIQUE IN THE CHEDI The majestic Chedi hotel opened in December 2013 and it is truly Andermatt’s showpiece. The fivestar hotel’s atmosphere is both elegant and casual. Natural stone, leather, wooden facades, along with 196 fireplaces alternate with the vast glass surfaces, creating an intimate and rustic – but modern – uncluttered look. Asian elements are incorporated in the Alpine style, which is not surprising considering that ‘chedi’ means ‘temple complex’ in Thai. My jaw drops when I enter the Chedi Hotel’s luxurious ski lounge. It feels like a comfortable, spacious living room, complete with a crackling fire in the log fireplace. From my big leather chair I admire the Head skis signed by Bode Miller and Lindsey Vonn, and I exchange my ski boots for a pair of cozy slippers. Our ski butler, dressed in a Norwegian wool sweater with a reindeer pattern, asks whether I would prefer a freshly-ground cappuccino, or perhaps I would like to have a look at the cheese cellar next to the restaurant.

The ceiling of the walk-in glass room is five-meters high, and the walls are lined with shelves stocked with different cheeses and complimenting wines from the region. There is a cheese buffet in the middle of the room, and guests are welcome to stop by any time during the day to help themselves to a slice of alpental or gruyère. As tempting as it is, we decide to wait until later to sample the cheese; right now, we want to enjoy the hotel’s glorious spa! The wellness goes far beyond our wildest expectations, and we can only hope that time will stand still here for a while.

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SWITZERLAND: THE STRAIGHT GOODS You can fly to Switzerland with swiss.com. Special deals are also listed at swisstravelsystem.com.

Additional info: myswitzerland.com DISENTIS

Disentis Sedrun ski area: disentis-sedrun.ch; Hotel Baur: hotel-baur.ch; Buendnerstube, a traditional restaurant in Disentis: buendnerstuve-disentis.ch; Zai ski factory: zai.ch; Wellness Spa Sedrun: bognsedrun.ch ANDERMATT

Andermatt ski arean: andermatt.ch; The River House (boutique hotel): theriverhouse.ch; The Chedi Andermatt: chediandermatt.com; Restaurants in Andermatt: andermatt-ochsen.ch THE MANY OFFERINGS AT THE CHEDI HOTEL IN ANDERMATT.

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skisilverstar.com 34 S–MAGAZINE | snowsportsculture.com

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T H E E U R O I S S U E / I TA LY

IN THE DOLOMITES V E R S AT I L I T Y SKI MOUNTAIN MEETS NEW SPR

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GRIFFIN POST EYEING THE RUN DOWN THE VAL MEZDI, ITALY'S VERSION OF CHAMONIX'S ICONIC VALLE BLANCHE.

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ONE PERSON CHAIRLIFTS, CRAZY ROPE TOWS, GLASS FLOORED TRAMS AND RICKETY OLD T-BARS: I’VE SEEN THEM ALL, BUT NEVER HAVE I LAID EYES ON ANYTHING LIKE THE ONE-PERSON, OPEN-AIR GONDOLA SPINNING BEFORE MY EYES. Groggy from yesterday’s 24-odd hours of travelling, home on Vancouver Island to the Italian Dolomites, I have to do a double take. Fixed to the cable of the lift, powered by a noisy diesel generator, a fenced in platform big enough for one person swings round the bull wheel and climbs the slopes above. It looks like someone took a cattle corral, shrunk it to waist high and hung it from a chairlift arm.

Our group of 10 North American’s just stare; 15 centimetres of new snow waits to be tracked up, but none of us move.

“How do you get on?” Scott asks, finally voicing all our thoughts.

One of our perfectly Italian guides marches past us, flashing us a look like we just asked how to put on our airplane seat belts. “Put skis in one hand,” Luigi says, “step on.” And he does, swinging himself and his skis and poles through an opening at the back of the “gondola” as the lift

passes the load area without slowing down.

He makes it look easy. Of course it’s not.

Two failed attempts later, I take a run at the next one and just manage to stumble on with all my gear. What follows is one of the most exciting chairlift rides of my life: high off the rocky slopes, the wind whistling through the meagre railings sitting just below my centre of gravity, feeling like a bounce or jerk will pitch me over the side onto the slopes below. I’m relieved when I spot the top, until a sickening thought enters my mind: How do I get off?

It’s simpler than I imagine and we soon slash big turns down the slopes, boot-top fluff hanging in the air after each carve.

With the sun out it’s fun and fast and we slide onto a groomer much too quickly.

Weaving through crowds we pass trailside refugio after refugio, all offering deals on beer and food, and then we pull up to the Banc Serauta, the first of a trio of modern

THE GROUP SKINNING ON THE SELLA MASSIF, PART OF THE VAL DI FASSA LIFT SYSTEM, ON THE WAY TO THE VAL MEZDI. INSET: ALESSANDRO PASSEO SKIING ON THE VAL MEZDI.

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trams that in an engineering marvel, launching up an almost sheer mountain wall in three stages, carved out of the cliffs, to the top of Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites.

My first two lift rides in the Dolomites nicely incapsulate the disparity of Italian skiing. I’ll ride lifts with automatic ticket checking gates and conveyor belts that deliver me to the loading line and I’ll risk my life on diesel powered antique I have to board like I’m hopping a train. I’ll chow in modern cafeterias that feed hundreds of dinners an hour and I’ll warm up in a remote chalet, eating homemade cured meats at tables of thick beams polished by decades of skiers and climbers. I’ll watch young ski racers bash gates on the latest race skis and ride the lift with Scufons de cogo, a local club that likes to telemark in wool skirts and wooden skis. Here in one of the world’s largest interconnected ski areas new and old, modern and tradition, rub shoulders in harmony.

Outside the unload station near the summit of Marmolada we emerge onto the largest remaining glacier in the Dolomites.

Towering puffy clouds drift past us as we ski off, our guides leading the way towards untracked snow. Soon one of those clouds camps over our run reducing visibility to about arm’s length. We form a chain, a guide in front and a 10 tourists a turn apart, calling out to keep everyone heading in the right direction. At least the snow’s soft.

ABOVE: RIDING THE UNIQUE ONE-PERSON GONDOLA. INSET: ANSWERING TOUGH QUESTIONS, OUR GUIDE LUIGI PRETENDING TO KNOW WHERE WE ARE. snowsportsculture.com

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HERE IN ONE OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST INTERCONNECTED SKI AREAS NEW AND OLD, MODERN AND TRADITION, RUB SHOULDERS IN HARMONY.

TOP: THE AUTHOR OPENING UP THE TELE TURNS

OPPOSITE: THE AWE-INSPIRING ORANGE

THROUGH SOME OF THE FRESH SNOW THAT FELL

DOLOMITE STONE WALLS THAT GIVE THE

ALMOST EVERY NIGHT DURING THE FIVE-DAY TRIP.

MOUNTAIN RANGE ITS NAME.

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Ten minutes of skiing like this we emerge beneath the clouds at the entrance to a small canyon. “No stopping,” Luigi instructs before leaping off a small cornice and sliding around a corner out of sight.

One after another we follow, the canyon walls gradually deepening and closing in, the bottom turning into a bobsled course of banked corners. We zip along through the roller coaster ride, hooting and hollering, the climax coming right at the end when the vertical walls pinch to within six feet and then end abruptly, spitting us out into a natural half pipe.

Buzzing we hike and traverse back to the one person gondola and this time load it like pros.

I can thank Polartec for the unique lift ride. Best known for making fleece and base layers for companies like Patagonia and Marmot, they invited a small group of journalists to Italy to celebrate the launch of their new breathable insulation, Alpha, and to take in their sponsored event the Scufoneda, a freeride festival. Based in the town of Moena, we’re at the heart of Dolomiti Superski, one of the world’s largest connected ski ticket systems, 12 sprawling resorts, including Val Gardena and Cortina, 1,200 kilometres of named runs, many more off piste and more than 1,000 lifts. It’s a shockingly large region.

In five days of skiing we only explore a tiny corner of it and on more than one occasion even our local guides have to consult the trail map to figure out where to go.

Normally I have a pretty good sense of direction, but I spend almost the entire trip totally clueless. The morning fog on day two doesn’t help. It’s not as bad as on our way to the canyon, but the low clouds add challenge as we follow Luigi at the start of a day long tour that he says will loop us around one of the most beautiful regions of the Dolomites, the Sella Massif.

When the clouds lift, revealing the distinctive orange cliffs above the small town of Passo Pordoi, the Italian scenery begins living up to his hype. The Dolomites take their name from this beautiful rock.

We soon fly over it riding an empty tram to the lofty Sass Pordoi, the beginning of the classic Val Mezdi ski tour.

It snowed again overnight and we’re breaking trail skinning along the rolling ridgeline. The sun playing peak a boo occasionally reveals, deep, mysterious valleys boiling with clouds and begging to be explored. We push on. Eventually we emerge at the top of the Val Mezdi, a thin

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tongue of snow that widens as it descends through a cliff lined cirque. Italians call it the Valle Blanche of the Dolomites and, indeed, it resembles a miniature version of Chamonix’s most famous run. It’s a fun ski too, starting off steep and slowly easing off, couloirs descending through the orange walls, hinting at the possibilities if we had more time. Farther down, it becomes more of a valley. We ski the flanks, popping off pillows of rocks for 10 turns, traverse for a few hundred metres and then ski some more.

It takes us almost an hour to ski the whole run, eventually emerging, after sweating through tight, steep trees at the bottom, into the town of Colfosco. A chair lift ride later we’re sitting on the deck of a trailside refugio quenching our thirst with a tall pint, a plate of the ubiquitous cured meats and local cheese appeasing my grumbling stomach. Four courses later soup, salad, pasta and desert - I’m bloated and we’re skiing again. We’re only half way around Sella and it’s getting late. We race down groomers descending for ages into a valley. When the snow runs out, my thighs burning, I follow Luigi in shouldering my skis and walking up a street towards a gondola station. A passing sign catches my eye: Val Gardena.

We’ve skied into one of the storied towns of the World Cup race circuit without me realizing it. But there’s no time to linger.

Luigi grabs a trail map before loading another lift.

“Are we lost?” I joke. Luigi looks up, doesn’t smile and goes back to studying the map.

The rest of the tour is a blur of groomed runs and lifts, more skiing, more chairs, and then we emerge at the edge of the same parking lot we started the day, our bus waiting to haul us back to Moena. Even Luigi looks a little stunned.

Two hours later, and still full from lunch, we’re back in the bus on our way to dinner at a chalet deep in the mountains.

To get there we load sleighs pulled behind a snowmobile and race through the night, the latest storm dumping heavy wet flakes.

Dinner is another feast of courses full of local meats, fresh breads and piles of the fresh ravioli. Then a tower of grappa is plonked onto each table. Buzzing from endless wine I slam one down - “Salute!”

- and wince from the flavour. Some people love the Italian brandy, but I don’t.

The next few days are a blur of more

THE SUN PLAYING PEAK A BOO OCCASIONALLY

REVEALS, DEEP, MYSTERIOUS VALLEYS BOILING WITH CLOUDS AND BEGGING TO BE EXPLORED.

TOP: THE AUTHOR SKIING AGAINST THE DRAMATIC WALLS THAT ARE SO PREVALENT IN THE AREA. BOTTOM: SALUTE! ENJOYING A WELL EARNED BEER ON A REFUGIO DECK IN COLFOSCO.

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T H E E U R O I S S U E / I TA LY THIS PAGE: DROPPING IN. GRIFFIN POST HUCKING DURING HIS WINNING RUN AT THE SCUFFONEDA FREERIDE COMPETITION. INSET: SCUFONS CLUB MEMBERS IN FULL RETRO GARB DURING THE POLARTEC SCUFONEDA FESTIVAL.

new snow, off piste runs, massive meals and more (forced) grappa - “Salute!”. From Moena we fan out up the nearby valley’s sampling different areas. The marked runs tend to be intermediate and scenic, rolling across alpine meadows, orange cliffs always on the horizon. The exception is at Passo San Pellegrino, a familiar sounding ski area that’s actually pretty small. I don’t see the soda factory anywhere.

Instead, its Col Margherita Freeride Park, an avalanche gear mandatory area that is the course for the Scufoneda Freeride Competition. For some reason, I can’t remember, I’ve agreed to compete in the telemark category. While I wait to register the Scufon club members wander around the base area in their historic garb, posing for photos and even riding off on the lifts to ski on their ancient gear.

I’m jealous of their freedom as butterflies tickle my stomach. I’ve never competed in a freeski competition and the Col Margherita is a huge run, 3,000 vertical feet down an imposing face. From the base I pick a line, but forget it by the time I slide up to the start gate. When it’s my turn to ski, I just let the skis take me. I have no idea where I’m going but down, but so far on my Italian adventure that’s served me well.

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T H E E U R O I S S U E / I TA LY RIGHT: THE VAL DI MEZDI IS LINED WITH TOWERING WALLS LIKE THESE.

THE GOODS ON THE DOLOMITES Moena and the Dolomiti Superski is in the heart of the Dolomite region of northeastern Italy. We flew into Munich, Germany, and drove four hours to reach Moena. Surrounded by ski areas it's a good base if you want to explore several different destinations, but requires a drive to get to the lifts every day. Any of dozens of towns, fanned out across the area, sit right on the ski runs and many of the resorts are interconnected. Shuttle buses zip between the different areas and link some of the lifts.

The on piste terrain is mainly intermediate and beginner, but harder skiing can be found just off the groomed rooms in every direction.

Guides are plentiful and a good bet, even just for navigating the expansive interconnected lift system.

TOP: THE WALK HOME AFTER A LATE NIGHT REFUGIO DINNER, BIG ITALIAN SNOWFLAKES FALLING HARD. BOTTOM: LOCALLY CURED MEAT AND HAND MADE CHEESE WERE A STAPLE STARTER BEFORE EVERY MEAL, INCLUDING BREAKFAST.

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Ski passes can be bought specific to a resort or multi-day packages good for the entire Dolomiti Superski network. Up to date prices and all the information for planning a trip can be found at dolomitisuperski.com

THE EURO ISSUE / GERMANY + AUSTRIA

CONFESSIONS OF A SKI JUNKIE

BY MICHAEL MASTARCIYAN + GORDIE BOWLES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRODE SANDBECH / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

WORLD’S BEST SKI RACER CONTINUES HIS QUEST TO CONQUER ALL ASPECTS OF THE MOUNTAIN

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THERE’S NO SUCH THING AS TOO MUCH SKIING, AT LEAST NOT IF YOUR NAME IS AKSEL LUND SVINDAL.

O

ne of the most decorated World Cup alpine racers in the history of the sport, the 31-year-old Norwegian spends upwards of 11 months a year training both on and off snow. During the season, Svindal endures a grueling schedule, skiing in all alpine disciplines, perennially in the hunt for the Crystal Globe – awarded to the tour’s overall point leader – something he’s won twice, by the way.

What does Svindal do when the last race of the season is over? You guessed it, more skiing.

A humble superstar with a sharp selfdeprecating wit, Svindal is giving other superstars lessons on how to be a megastar. Always friendly, ever accommodating, Svindal has been a darling of the media since day one – but get in the way of his passion for skiing and all bets are off.

“In the race season you don’t ski that much. You do some warm up and freeskiing, but the actual skiing in races is always less than five minutes, and when you’ve finished your five minutes of skiing you get to talk about it with the media for about 1 hour and 5 minutes. That doesn’t mean that the media is bad, but I’m a skier, and 5 minutes of skiing followed by 1 hour and 5 minutes of talking about skiing gets tiring after a long winter,” Svindal blogged last March on his website.

Svindal’s most recent alpine adventure happened in late March, just moments

SVINDAL POSES FOR A PORTRAIT DURING THE HIKE TO THE TOP OF THE GROSSGLOCKNER IN AUSTRIA ON MARCH 20, 2014.

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I’M NEVER GOING TO BE THE GUY THAT DROPS THE BIGGEST CLIFFS BUT I WILL WORK ON SOME TECHNICAL SKILLS SO THAT I CAN ALSO PLAY AROUND A LITTLE BIT. AKSEL LUND SVINDAL, BENE MAYR AND AASMUND THORSEN LOOK FOR LINES TO SKI ON THE DESCENT DOWN FROM THE GROSSGLOCKNER.

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THE EURO ISSUE / GERMANY + AUSTRIA after he packed up his 2014 downhill and super-G World Cup Crystal Globes and hit the road for a month of rest and relaxation.

A breathtaking, heart-pumping, five-day freeskiing and mountain climbing road trip in Switzerland and Austria with freeskiing juggernauts Aasmund Thorsen and Bene Mayr.

First up, a couple of days skiing and backcountry touring in the Haslital region of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland, smack dab in the geographic centre of the country. Then, after a few days of scoring big lines and glacier hopping, Svindal and company headed east to Austria to climb the country’s highest peak, the mythical Grossglockner.

Situated in the majestic Hohe Tauern National Park, the Grossglockner is 3,798 metres of pure Austrian pride in geophysical form. Climbing this pyramid-shaped behemoth is both an adventure and an honour for anyone who’s been to this beautiful alpine nation, and something Svindal was excited to blog about recently.

“I went to Austria to climb the Grossglockner,” Svindal said proudly about his two-day summit expedition which included a little overnight pit stop at the famed Stüdlhütte, before beginning an early morning ascent under the stars with headlamps on. “A fun experience. It’s a narrow spine to climb and walk, with something that looks like 1,000 meters vertical, on both sides. Sure gets your heart pumping a little faster.”

The budding freeskiing movie star, Svindal has also been ripping big, gnarly lines on camera for Field Productions since 2008. His most recent collaboration with FP, a film called Supervention, was nominated for an Amada this year, Norway’s version of the Oscar.

“I’m never going to be the guy that drops the biggest cliffs but I will work on some technical skills so that I can also play around a little bit. I watch the other guys a lot as I’ve been with a lot of good (skiers); when I watch them ski I think ‘wow that looks cool, and when I see it after it looks even cooler on video.’”

Svindal’s fascination with freeskiing is fueled by a desire to have fun, something he explains with great gusto in a short film

by Field Productions called The Evolution of a Freeskier a must see for anyone who loves skiing.

“I remember the first time I went with a group they said ‘first of all, you can go

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PHOTOGRAPHER FRODE SANDBECH CAPTURES SVINDAL ADMIRING THE EARLY-MORNING VIEWS ON THE ASCENT UP THE GLOCKNER MOUNTAIN.

THE EURO ISSUE / GERMANY + AUSTRIA

TOP: SVINDAL, BENE MAYR, AASMUND THORSEN, HAUNI AND GUIDES START THE TREK AT 5:00 AM. ABOVE: THE FAMED STÜDLHÜTTE HUT.

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OPPOSITE: SVINDAL, BENE MAYR AND AASMUND THORSEN HIKE OUT OF THE VALLEY AFTER A FULL DAY OF TOURING AND SKIING IN AUSTRIA. INSET: MAYR LEADS THE GROUP ON THE DESCENT.

a little slower, you don’t need to be the fastest one down the face’,” Svindal tells viewers with a smile.”

“When it comes to freesking, it’s something I don’t have to think about too much, it’s a fun thing. It’s not about being the fastest down the hill but about having the sweetest lines and taking advantage of all the terrain. I’m never going to be the guy that drops the biggest cliffs but I will work on some technical skills so that I can also play around a little bit.”

IT’S NOT ABOUT BEING THE FASTEST DOWN THE HILL BUT ABOUT HAVING THE SWEETEST LINES AND TAKING ADVANTAGE OF ALL THE TERRAIN. A student and fan of every facet of the sport, Svindal pays props to his freeskiing brethren and confesses that lessons learned on steep faces and narrow chutes can be used when he’s back at his day job as a downhill racer.

“When I’m racing, it’s all about getting big angles and big forces so that you can accelerate through the turns, but when you’re up in the narrow chutes, you don’t want to set off anything too big so it can be

the total opposite,” he states. “When you look at the best guys (freeskiers) in the world and how they adapt their technique to different situations, you see there are a lot of different things for a racer to learn coming to the world of freeriding.”

And the sentiment is both ways.

Professional freeskier Eric Hjorleifson, a regular in Matchstick Production films, was in awe during their time on the slopes of Northern Norway.

“It’s really impressive to watch Aksel out here, totally out of his element and transition into skiing big lines,” Hjorleifson, born and raised in Canmore, says with a laugh. “I think of reversing the situation and picture myself strapping on some massive GS or super-G skis and try to race down some World Cup course ... I don’t think I’d do as well, it’s impressive, he has a lot of skill.”

Skill and passion are two attributes that Svindal has never been short of. And his quest to conquer mountains in all its forms, including pleasure seeking, helps him stay ahead of the pack.

“I’ve been with great company in the mountains. The people with the most knowledge are my favourites. Everything you do, you can learn something, you get better as an athlete. But when it comes to freesking it’s something I don’t have to think about too much ... it’s a fun thing.”

THE FAB FOUR: SVINDAL, BENE MAYR, AASMUND THORSEN AND MOUNTAIN GUIDE BERNIE WALK TO THE GONDOLA IN HASLITAL, SWITZERLAND.

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KIDS SKI & STAY FREE

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REVELLING IN THE MAJESTIC, YET HUMBLE, LAKE LOUISE AND THE ELEGANT POST HOTEL

EYES W I D E OPEN P H O T O G R A P H S

B Y

C L A I R E

B Y

J O H N

C H A L L E N

E V E L Y

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F R A N K I E

M I L L E R

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T

aking in the unmatched beauty surrounding me, I breathe deeply.

Wide open, not a soul to disrupt my turns, I point my tips downhill. With stunning mountain foreground and background enveloped in blue sky and a perfectly groomed piste under my skis, I slice the grippy base. My edges dig deeper with each turn, the snow holding me with that perfect resistance every serious skier loves. The pace quickens, and I feel myself awakening with each arc. A flash of red to my left triggers a defensive right turn out of harm’s way. The intruder hurtles by in what, strangely, appears to be slow motion.

He’s one of the smoothest skiers I’ve ever seen. I realize I must have hindered the flow for my lodging host, who also appears to prefer his runs wide open, nobody in front.

The intruder is none other than ski instructing legend and Lake Louise fixture André Schwarz – part owner of the magnificent Post Hotel & Spa. Two days earlier, I arrived at Lake Louise, an easy two-hour drive from Calgary along the Trans Canada Highway, to find a compact, easy-to-navigate village with all that was needed within a few select stores, coffee shops, restaurants and a few choice accommodation options. From here, Canada’s second-largest ski resort beckoned just a couple of kilometres up the access road.

Tucking in behind André on Upper Wiwaxy the next morning, I’m amazed at the incredible turning power of this 67-year-old Swiss Italian. I thought I was generating speed up high, but this guy is doing it turn after turn. No wonder he has been tagged the “Father of the Modern Ski Technique” in Canadian ski instructing circles, having had a profound influence on the Canadian Ski Instructors Alliance (CSIA) in the early 80s, and becoming the first inductee into the CSIA’s Hall of Fame. Yet despite influencing the technique of thousands of ski instructors and uncounted skiers, Andre has honed a style that is distinctly his own. He earns my respect within a couple of turns, not that he needs it. Today he sports red ski pants, a grey jacket and – speaking of his own style – no helmet or eyewear. “Using any kind of glasses or goggle lenses weakens your eyes,” he tells me with confidence as teary waterfalls stream down his face.

Hmmm, I think to myself, interesting theory.

We were joined by S-Magazine editor Gordie Bowles and esteemed photographer and chiseled Banff veteran John Evely for the day, as we cruised over to the steep Men’s Downhill run. Soon we’re back near

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the base, four colourful specks dotting the snow outside the massive Lodge of the Ten Peaks. Remnants from the Ice Magic Festival mingle with the ski racks. With no mad dash for the lift lines required, we cruise up to the Glacier Express Quad and ride above the world-class snow-cross course and World Cup downhill finish area.

It had been years since I’d skied at Lake Louise, and I was eager to explore its 4,200 acres and four mountain faces. Shooting off the Top of the World Express six-pack, Andre leads the charge with Gordie in tow.

We stop mid-run to take in still more incredible views. I can see why this resort is internationally recognized as one of the most scenic ski destinations on the planet.

The low-angled January sun is barely above the rugged spine of the high Rockies across the valley, the small white oval of Lake Louise enveloped by a ring of rising peaks, the near-vertical Victoria Glacier forming a white wall. To the left, Mount Temple, a frequent destination of hikers in summer.

Farther on, the successive square cliff tops of Mount Quadra. Incredibly, its 60-plus degree couloirs have been skied.

André tells us that he skis mostly onpiste nowadays, about 35 days a year, far less than in his pro skiing era, but still more than most recreational skiers. There may be fewer off-piste challenges in his skiing these days but I can’t imagine he’d be mistaken for a man who has slowed down. In the 1970s, skiing was in full swing throughout Alberta and André made the Rockies his home. He was entranced with the sheer magnitude of available space. “In Europe, millions of people live in close proximity,” whereas in the Rockies, he found ski runs shared by fewer people. He muses philosophically that in Europe, “systems are sacred and they come ahead of humanity.”

Here he discovered not everything was established; there was room for growth and new voices to develop a stronger skiing technique and thus establish Canada as a force in the ski industry. Topping off his list of positives, André says with a smile, “here in Canada, people are much nicer.”

In my experiences, André was dead-on.

You can expect to be treated with hospitality on and off the mountain at Lake Louise. Its clientele is largely local, leaving room for you, the traveller, to be seen as something special rather than resented as one of the tourist hordes. You can explore the resort alone or take advantage of the many yellowjacketed Ski Friends for a tour. Skiers enjoy access to the protected wilderness of Banff

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National Park, impressive terrain variety, beautiful lodges and restaurants rivalling nearly any high-end ski resort. Crowds are light, except during peak vacation periods like the Alberta Family Day long weekend in February.

Lake Louise is something of a paradox.

There is genuinely high-end lodging and dining, with legends like André zipping by, conjuring up images of Bogner suits, overpriced meals and snooty attitudes. But as soon as you’re on the mountain you’ll realize it isn’t your typical large-scale resort. Marketing director and telemark expert Dan Markham recounts the Lake Louise vision instilled by owner Charlie Locke: “Imagine a family of mom and dad and two kids. They show up in an old truck and bring their own lunch. Having saved up for a family pass to spend quality time together, they expect little but that the lifts will open and close on time.” Yet Lake Louise also receives thousands of skiers from around the world whose expectations go far beyond those of the local family in the pickup truck. And those are met through the mountain’s natural assets – dazzling scenery and terrain variety. The hill’s renewed focus on grooming, snowmaking and on-hill dining, and the luxurious accommodations and dining available just minutes from the lifts. Most lifts here offers beginner, intermediate and expert terrain choices, creating opportunity for mixed groups to enjoy the whole mountain together.

Lake Louise is like an old-time ski hill but with world-class terrain and modern lifts, grooming and snowmaking. During après in the Powderkeg Lounge I meet a few 50-plus locals in the crowded bar queue, including Al, Stu, and Tom. “We love it here for the terrain and consistent ability to ski from early November to May,” Al tells me. “Some of the earliest skiing in North America is right here.”

I rarely work up an appetite from actually skiing, but today a little chill in the air makes me yearn for extra layering via a three-course meal. We’ve been skiing long runs of big vertical. Forever the instructor, Andre has been dispensing tips all day. Over in the Ptarmigan Glades we find terrain that’s a little steeper, and with

a few more early-season variables. I slam some short-radius turns down a couple of pitches that roll over, drop steeply and then bench out, with nice turning lines through the bumps. André follows the same path. I can imagine him in all his glory, a group of instructors hanging on his every word and turn, exclaiming as he pops over features and slices his way through the run. We could head up the Larch Quad back to some of the resort’s nicest (and most sheltered) cruising terrain, but André has other ideas, and we ride back up the Ptarmigan quad.

Now he leads us down the fast pitch of Eagle Flight onto Lower Flight and we quickly dive to the left over a rollaway that drops us neatly in front of the resort’s latest project, the major reno of the mid-mountain Whitehorn Lodge. I feel lucky to indulge in upscale menu items like arugula, pear and prosciutto salad, seafood chowder and the Rocky Mountain game platter.

With the layer successfully added by

ultra-steep terrain. One of the very best, Whitehorn 2, beckons just beyond a row of red signs “Closed – Avalanche Danger”. Too early in the season, too little snow cover, too high a hazard. I gaze and wonder, recalling the words of Steve, a local I met during après, who told me how superb the Lake can be later in the season.

Early one morning, Steve had made it into several key zones right after the patrol.

He’d walked the length of Boomerang Ridge to the ski area boundary to earn the right to shred an entire face to himself, with close to a foot of late-winter powder over a friendly base. Quickly circling back via Paradise Chair for another lap, Steve had hit Whitehorn 2 – the run I had been dying to ski in January. Bragging shamelessly, Steve had continued to tell me what I’d missed. “All of these parallel couloirs are great, but I think my favourite is the ‘D’ gully. I love the way it hourglasses in the middle, so that as people shred its upper bowl they send loose snow billowing into the throat of it, keeping it soft right until closing time.”

As much as Steve loved Whitehorn 2, his top choice – a great insider tip for those willing to walk – was Elevator Shaft, the couloir spilling down alongside the big cliffs above the top of Larch Chair. Steve had been on a roll, chugging beer as he told me the bootpack was about 1,800 steps to reach the Batcave at the top.

But well worth it as his descent was epic.

“After the upper couloir, I ducked beneath the cliffs where the patrol has a rope line strung, taking me out into the untracked bowl. I ripped about 25 fat, round, satisfying and joyful turns in over-the-knee powder that’s as close to blower as anyone has a right to expect at the end of April.”

Steve knew I’d been unable to ski any of the double-black-diamond terrain at the time of my visit yet he kept revelling in his epic memories. Recounting these stories from my new pal I wondered, would a true friend cut the knife so deep? Perhaps it was merely his ploy to get me to come back here. If so, he’d succeeded, for my mind was on one thing: ripping up the steeps, chutes and bowls I had seen and heard about.

Although Lake Louise’s very best terrain would have to wait for that anticipated future visit, it is an absolute luxury to ski here at anytime of the season.

I LOVE THE WAY IT HOURGLASSES IN THE MIDDLE, SO THAT AS PEOPLE SHRED ITS UPPER BOWL THEY SEND LOOSE SNOW BILLOWING INTO THE THROAT OF IT, KEEPING IT SOFT RIGHT UNTIL CLOSING TIME. a delicious lunch, I ride the steep Summit Platter lift alone (as one can only do on a former T-bar converted to single platter).

It’s a steep lift, with a 38 degree-pitch that keeps me alert. To re-energize, I pop off natural features along the upward path.

Lift towers are encrusted from nights and days of snow blowing wildly atop Whitehorn Mountain, with its over 2,600 metre summit.

I have a vision of riding up through the gates of heaven. Uncountable peaks marching in every direction and endless terrain beckon me ever-upward, just so that I can soar downward again. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

At the top, we can just about see everywhere we might like to ski, within resort boundaries and beyond. I’m eager to try some of the legendary doubleblack-diamond terrain. Much of it was permanently closed in the old days but was progressively opened as the extreme skiing and freeride revolutions stoked demand for

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EURO LUXURY AT T H E P O S T H O T E L & S P A The Lake Louise Ski Lodge, as it was originally known, welcomed its first guests in 1942 for a short season. It reopened in 1947 under the ownership of British aircraft manufacturer and avid outdoorsman, Sir Norman Watson. With its handy railway station access, Watson’s vision was to provide easily accessible lodging for travellers looking to ski and hike the Rockies. In 1957 the name was changed to the Post Hotel (becoming Post Hotel & Spa in 2005) and ten years later an adjacent 25-room motel was completed.

During his 30 years of ownership, much of Watson’s dreams had come to fruition: he had created a hotel that had become the heart of the village. Satisfied with this success and having confidence that new owners André, George and Barb Schwarz would work hard to fulfill his dreams, the Post was sold in 1978. A new era had begun.

Watson had chosen his successors wisely. The Schwarz’s hail from Switzerland, where André says very bluntly, “you have no hope to do anything unless you have money”.

In Canada, the three could see it was possible to do more with less and they relished the opportunity to bring their European style to the Alberta tourism scene and to help nourish the local food culture.

Stylishly subdued from the outside, the Post Hotel & Spa is a grand place. Globally recognized, the gold emblazoned Relais & Chateau insignia at the entrance speaks of the luxurious standards adhered to within these doors. Prospective and current members of Relais & Chateau must adhere to the organization’s traditional “five C motto: “Character, Courtesy, Calm, Charm and Cuisine.” Once inside, one can glide through peaceful hallways in deep woody tones and soothing lighting, treading lightly on Euro-

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pean style carpeting. It is an atmosphere of relaxation and calm. This establishment is far grander than most, yet speaks of home through its warmth and welcome.

Through the eyes of their father, an accomplished chef and within their half-Italian grandmother’s kitchen, André and George grew up with special exposure to European fare. It was no surprise that the restaurant would become the hotel’s core. At the time of their arrival in the 70s, Alberta was a virtual culinary wasteland. The Post Hotel & Spa soon became renowned for outstanding culinary fare and service while Alberta ski country also worked to raise its gastronomic game. Being the recipient since 2002 of the esteemed Wine Spectator’s most prestigious “Grand Award” – one of only four restaurants so named in Canada – speaks highly of the Schwarz family’s dedication. Lying beneath the restaurant in a spectacular cellar are 29,000 bottles of fine wine carefully selected by sommelier George; teasers extolling some of the headiest options decorate the restaurant walls above. Though the restaurant itself is immense, it is spectacularly dressed with soft lighting – it simply glows. Delicately lit willow blanket the ceiling from the lobby throughout the restaurant. André and George, the ever gracious hosts, indulged our senses with a mouthwatering traditional Swiss cheese fondue. Homemade bread immersed in warm velvet, and a bottle of the most exquisite wine I’ve ever had the pleasure of savouring – each complementing the other to perfection. Followed by fruits and melted chocolate fondue, we were sated and forever spoiled.

Opulent guest rooms (93 of them) with open fireplaces, floorto-ceiling windows, and a personal

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bottle of one of George’s specially chosen bottles, complete the experience of enjoying the views and warming toes, perhaps even choosing to stay in the room all evening. The excellence is in the details, from L’Occitane and Aveda bathroom accoutrements, and the tiled jacuzzi tub to the kindling neatly wrapped near the fireplace, matches at the ready. Visible below is the hotel’s gorgeous skating rink, lit up with the white lights that are synonymous with ski towns. In a particularly peaceful wing of the hotel sits the grand ceilinged library, complete with a huge fireplace, antler chandelier, games and books. Guests can spend time in the elaborate, 3,200 squarefoot elaborate Temple Mountain Spa to further enhance their relaxation with a massage treatment or rejuvenate tired muscles in the jacuzzi after a long skiing day.

It’s rugged and wild in the Rocky Mountains but you can look forward to coming “home” to more comfort than you could hope for in this most glorious of hotels.

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Elevated

LIVING

Living the mountain high life

BY MICHAEL MASTARCIYAN

THE GURU OF GRAPPA THERE ARE COUNTLESS REASONS WHY CORTINA D’AMPEZZO SHOULD BE ON YOUR LIST OF PLACES TO VISIT FOR AN ALPINE HOLIDAY. The unparalleled beauty of the spired Dolomites, the vast terrain, the uncrowded slopes, the unbelievable food, the marvelous wines, the luxurious shops and designer boutiques you can patronize – all great reasons to hit this gem of a ski town.

My reasons for loving this town involve the aforementioned attractions but the biggest draw for me is the grapes, or more specifically, the product that is born from them after they are used and abused during the fabrication of wine, and transformed into a delicious elixir called grappa.

Not surprisingly, I had been familiar with grappa long before I ever stepped foot in Cortina, but it never really blew my socks off. This general sense of apathy, however,

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changed when I met the man I now consider my grappa guru, a local restauranteur named Francesco Ghedina, whose family has lived in Cortina for the last 500 years.

If you are fan of World Cup ski racing, the name Ghedina is likely familiar to you.

Turns out Francesco’s cousin is Italian World Cup downhill racing legend Kristian Ghedina, who won nearly every famous downhill at least once – Kitzbuhel, Wengen, Val Gardena, Kvifjell, Whistler, and even one at his hometown Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Francesco, himself a local alpine racer, was an integral part of Denver University’s 2008 NCAA champion ski team, a feat illustrated by a photo of Frenci (pronounced Frenchy) rubbing shoulders with President

George W. Bush at a White House reception, that proudly hangs on a wall in 5 Torri, the restaurant he owns and operates in Cortina.

Until I met Frenci, my experience in grappa was limited to a bottle of gullet-burning, tourist trap rotgut I was swindled into buying, while on a sightseeing trip to a grappa distillery in the Sud Tirol region of Italy, just north of Cortina. Most of that first bottle of grappa, which I would jokingly serve up to friends as bad Italian moonshine, eventually ended up in Lake Ontario via the drain in my kitchen sink.

Unfortunately for my liver, my opinion on the subject of this ancient drink has changed radically since those early days, and today I can confidently say, mine eyes and tastebuds

have been to the top of the mountain, and have seen the true glory of grappa.

THE GR A PPA GOODS My path to enlightenment, under the tutelage of Guru Ghedina, began with a basic education on what grappa really is – an alcoholic digestif distilled from the pomace, more commonly known as the leftovers or “dregs” of the winemaking process (skins, pulp, seeds and stems), a practice that’s been going on in the region for the last 2,000 years.

“Grappa is the natural finish to any meal in this part of Italy,” Ghedina told me on a chilly night during a meal at his restaurant, after a picture-perfect bluebird day of ripping with a mutual friend, well-known local ski guide and free climber Samuele Majoni.

“You can have it on it’s own, or in an after dinner coffee or tea. It’ll help you digest, and it’ll warm you up, and warming up is important in this part of Italy, because it can get really, really, cold here,” he said with a laugh after stuffing me with a Northern Italian feast fit for a king. Contrary to my initial, un-enlightened notions about this

drink, grappa comes in an unlimited number of flavours, colours and even textures, when combined with ingredients on a spectrum from the mundane to the exotic.

JUST SECONDS AFTER OUR DINNER PLATES WERE REMOVED, A CARAVAN OF SERVERS APPROACHED US, EACH BEARING AN ARMFUL OF SHIMMERING GRAPPA BOTTLES, IN ALL MANNER OF SIZE, SHAPE, AND COLOUR, EACH EMBLAZENED WITH A LABEL MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN THE NEXT. “There’s a million kinds of different grappa,” Ghedina said as he watched my eyes turn into big saucers, mesmerized by the liquid splendour being placed down on our table. “You can really put a lot of

different things in it to flavour it. Fruits, spices, I’ve even heard that there is snake grappa but we don’t have it here,” he added with a grin.

C HE E RIOS A ND GR A PPA? The first bottle that caught my eye from the menagerie set before me was milky white, and looked like it should have a happy cow on the label.

“That’s my favourite grappa, we call it milk grappa,” Ghedina told me pointing at the bottle, that to the untrained eye, looked exactly like a harmless bottle of milk. “I haven’t tried it with Corn Flakes yet, and I don’t think I will,” he added with a laugh.

Intrigued by the idea of boozing up future breakfasts, I tried the milk grappa. According to legend, milk grappa is a magical concoction made by combining grappa, milk, real vanilla and another secret ingredient that then has to sit in a dark room for 40 days. The 40 days this bottle sat around were clearly worth it! What a tasting experience! Smooth, tropical, and extremely fragrant, almost like drinking the

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have something for you,” Frenci said.

vanilla-banana-coconut cream centre of a fine gourmet chocolate.

The next day, after what seemed like a million vertical miles of skiing under blue skies and blazing sun, like an Indiana Jones on skis, I made my way up to Tondi to meet Marco Verzi, in search of the elusive snake grappa, which at least in my mind, had become the Holy Grail of digestifs.

A very popular lunch destination on Cortina’s Faloria slopes, Tondi is part restaurant and part grapoteca, which is another way of saying “grappa shop”.

Verzi’s family founded Tondi in 1940, and fortunately the business and the family both survived the fierce mountain fighting that took place on their doorstep during World War II.

A Bepi Tosolini Barrique, 5 Torri’s best seller, a grappa aged in cherry barrels was my next tasting. Light, smooth, a definite cherry aftertaste with a hot finish, almost like a whiskey or a cognac. Perfect drink for cold weather locales frequented by skiers.

SPA RK LY GOODNE S S Knowing I’m a big fan of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) Frenci cracked open a bottle of Prosecco grappa next. The bottle looked like it had sparkling wine in it, but there were no bubbles to be found. What was inside almost tasted like a sweet cheese with a smooth, creamy finish.

Molto delicioso!

Next up, and what turned out to be my favourite, was cumin grappa, made from the common household spice. Simply put, very, very elegant. A complex, slightly sweet, almost dessert-like grappa, with a medium body, and a long, spicy, herbal finish. You could smell the cumin but you couldn’t really taste it. As an added bonus, instead of an after taste, the cumin grappa had an “after effect” reminiscent of a gimmicky candy I used to eat as a kid called Pop Rocks. A grappa that makes you feel like a kid in a candy store – only the candy store’s shelves are full of booze that makes your

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tongue go snap, crackle and pop!

THE HOLY GR A PPA GR A IL After a dozen or so other light tastings, I only did “heavy” samplings of the ones I liked most for sobriety’s sake, I asked for more info on the legendary snake grappa Frenci had alluded to earlier that evening.

“For the snake grappa, you must go up the mountain to Rifugio Capanna Tondi and meet the real guru, Marco Verzi, he might

Despite being tempted by more than 80 different types of grappa on site, I told Verzi I heard he had snake grappa, and I didn’t want to leave without trying it. Verzi smiled, pulled out two bottles with coiled snakes laying in them, and told me the idea to flavour grappa with serpents began as a prank 40 years earlier, and that today it’s a scaly staple on Tondi’s grappa menu.

Did I taste it? Of course. The Snake grappa I sampled can be best described as strong, smooth, with a hint of pepper and pears, and a creamy finish that leaves a little slithery serpentine zing right in the back of your throat!

Tips

UP

Suggestions and tips from the pros

BY JOSH FOSTER

easy, not forced. On a pair of skis, ease and grace comes from mobility and you can achieve mobility by being aware of your stance. The technical term – or skill – used here is stance and balance. You can think of stance being your position on your skis, a snap shot of what you look like through a turn, and balance as the movements that you need to make to, well, stay standing up! A good skiing stance is one that involves all your lower joints, hips, knees and ankles. Some people call the bend in the lower joints equal; this makes sense to me but I prefer to call the bend in the joints “complimentary”. The joints bend differently, a bend in the knees moves you back, whereas a bend in the hips moves you forward as does a bend in the ankles, so having them work together and in unison leaves you centered and gives you the mobility that you’re seeking. A good way to envision your stance is to compare it to some other sports that you may play.

Waiting for a serve in volleyball or tennis, on defense while playing basketball, on the tee box preparing to swing in golf or maybe waiting for the puck to drop in a hockey game. These stances all have the same thing in common, bending the joints in a way that they work together, leaving you centered and able to move.

Now that you’ve had a good look to your stance that you want to move – stance is a position but balance is an action – it’s time for style to come in. You want to create a little tension so that you’re not flopping all over the place. Remember there’s a difference between tension and stiffness. To stay on Mobility is the key to skiing with style and efficiency on any terrain track with our driving analogy, think sports car suspension on the groomed stuff and Cadillac on the rough terrain, bending and an odd comment from a buddy while we quickly out of sight leaving nothing but the extending your lower joints to adapt to the rode a chairlift up Mont Tremblant has after glow of his flouro presence. I guess he conditions at hand. Being able to create stuck with me for quite some time. As we had the engine to drive the thing after all. this on your skis will allow for ease and approached the top of the lift we noticed a grace in a lot of different areas, small group of skiers about to start their rough terrain, varied snow THINK SPORTS CAR SUSPENSION ON conditions run. It was a non-descript group, except for or perfectly buffed one guy who appeared as if he was glowing, THE GROOMED STUFF AND CADILLAC grooming ... it won’t matter. a beacon sparkling in sunlight, a burst The catch, however is that you ON THE ROUGH TERRAIN ...” of colour with flashy embroidery. It was need to be active, pro-active a spectacular ensemble that was being even. Look ahead and move etched into my memory forever when my So, do you have the engine to drive the with the terrain, bend as the bumps come friend said: “You’d better have the engine if latest styles and fashion down the slope and extend your legs and lower joints as you’re going to drive a suit like that!” of your local mountain? Or, is your style the terrain drops away. more about looking the part at the après Just then the guy takes off, like he was pow- ski party? Either way is fine but here are a Seek out a good stance and contact with ered by some sort of strange energy that couple of things to tune up your engine so the snow, this will give your skiing a fluid was given to him by the suit, he danced that you can drive whatever suit you want. effortless look, and better yet, feel. Now all down the slope with energy and grace, Skiing style, much like fashion, should be you need is a flashy suit and you’re set!

LOOK GOOD, SKI GREAT

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PARTING SHOT

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PHOTOGRAPH BY CAROLINE VAN ‘T HOFF

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James Heim in the backcountry of British Columbia.

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