October-November 2019 // Out There Outdoors by Out There Outdoors

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OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 // FREE

THE INLAND PACIFIC NORTHWEST GUIDE TO ADVENTURE + TRAVEL + CULTURE

epic trails without the crowds

Autumn Alpine in the wallowas 00 Fee to , 2,2 s k

pray for snow parties // ski flicKs // gear // digital snow // resort news // season's predictions // ski bum advice & More

fernie, b.c. Fall Road Trip

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WINTER KICKOFF

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gravel grinder Ascent

FALL COLOR S E K I H 2P ea

cool weather running tips

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Ends Oct

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

MOSES LAKE

ROAD TRIP! Your Home Base for Fall Hiking & Adventure DESERT DAY HIKES

PARKS & PADDLE

◉ Columbia Basin Wildlife Area ◉ Potholes Reservoir State Park ◉ Columbia National Wildlife Refuge ◉ Sun Lakes—Dry Falls State Park ◉ Juniper Dunes Wilderness

◉ Explore beautiful city parks, playgrounds, ballfields, and lakeshore access ◉ Paddle the Potholes Reservoir & Winchester Wasteway

BRING THE BIKES

UNWIND

◉ Ride the Moses Lake BMX bike track ◉ Pedal the Activity Trail around town to several parks and along the lake ◉ Explore endless back road and gravel ride options

◉ Enjoy great restaurants, Mexican food, wineries, and breweries ◉ Visit the Moses Lake Museum & Art Center

MOSES LAKE Events ◉ Moses Lake Farmers’ Market - Every Saturday through October ◉ Superhero Fun Run and Festival – Oct. 5 ◉ 42nd Annual Mennonite Country Auction – Oct. 5 ◉ Ellensburg multi-media artist Justin Colt Beckman’s Western Territory Exhibition – Oct. 11-Nov. 15

◉ Flamenco Pacifico Concert (www.cba-arts.org) – Nov. 2 ◉ Local historian Mick Qualls discusses archaeological finds in the Lind-Coulee and Quincy areas – Nov. 6 ◉ Holiday Bazaar – Nov. 16 More events and details at www.cityofml.com OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

IS NOW

CONTENTS

FEATURES

19 | Autumn in the Alpine 31 | Fall Color Hikes

รฐMORE ENERGY INDEPENDENCE รฐSAVE $$ ON POWER BILLS

รฐLOWER CARBON FOOTPRINT

SPECIAL SECTIONS 21 | Family Winter Sports Guide 33 | On The Mountain/Ski Snowboard Section LEARN MORE AT ECODEPOTINC.COM

COLUMNS 17 | Eatology 18 | Everyday Cyclist

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 WWW.OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM PUBLISHERS

Shallan & Derrick Knowles EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Derrick Knowles MANAGING EDITOR

Summer Hess ASSOCIATE EDITOR & DIGITAL MANAGER

Lisa Laughlin ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Jon Jonckers SPECIAL SECTION EDITOR

Amy McCaffree EVENT COORDINATOR

Jenae Denlinger COPY EDITOR

Andrew Butler CONTRIBUTORS

S. Michal Bennett Paul Chisholm Todd Dunfield Adam Gabauer Chris Gabrielli T. Ghezzi Sarah Hauge Summer Hess Steven Hitchcock Jon Jonckers Derrick Knowles Shallan Knowles Lisa Laughlin Harley McAllister Amy McCaffree Ammi Midstokke Brad Northrup Heather Easterling Ritchie Justin Skay Tiffany Syron Aaron Theisen Nick Thomas Holly Weiler Courtney Yarber ART + PRODUCTION

Jon Jonckers Shallan Knowles Kimberley Loberg TO REQUEST COPIES CALL

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Disclaimer: Many of the activities depicted in this magazine carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. Rock climbing, river rafting, snow sports, kayaking, cycling, canoeing and backcountry activities are inherently dangerous. The owners and contributors to Out There Monthly/Out There Outdoors do not recommend that anyone participate in these activities unless they are experts or seek qualified professional instruction and/or guidance, and are knowledgeable about the risks, and are personally willing to assume all responsibility associated with those risks.

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Intro: The Snowy Mountains Are Calling BEFORE MY KIDS will have figured out their

Halloween costumes, I’ll know what they’ll be wearing the first day it snows. For my family, October isn’t just about soccer games and raking leaves; we also have our annual ski gear ritual. My kids will semi-patiently try on all of their last-season alpine gear, from head to toe, while their dad and I figure out which new, biggersized items are needed for the coming ski season. We check the fit of ski boots, jacket sleeves, helmets—everything! We then re-organize all the items: individual ski bags; a bin of snow-play gear for home, sledding, and school; and, finally,

any outgrown gear we hope to sell at the Mt. Spokane Ski Patrol Ski Swap, which is always the last weekend of October. I’ve always felt giddy when it snows, which is why I love the Inland Northwest’s four-season climate and snowy winters. But I didn’t grow up in a ski family. It wasn’t until junior high that I even tried on an old, used pair of skis, and even last season I took a lesson to fine-tune my skills. Now the mom of skier kids with a ski patrol husband (who’s been skiing for 40 years), I geek out over gear and check mountain weather reports with my 9-year-old son. He keeps ski mountain trail maps on his bedroom wall year-round and

Did your ride end like this?

now skis better than me. And about those ski bags—from season opening weekend through the spring skiing days of March, they’ll be lugged from home to the mountain and back at least once or twice a week, along with skis and poles. But that’s the toil and joy of being a ski family. In this double issue, our On the Mountain section and annual Family Winter Sports Guide will help you get ready for the coming season. If you’re new to skiing or snowboarding, we have tips to get you started. You don’t have to own new or expensive gear. And no matter your age or ability, there is a lesson program for you. It’s

never too late to learn, or to get back on your boards after a long hiatus. We’re fortunate to live in the Inland Northwest. From the Cascades to the Selkirk and Bitterroot mountain ranges to Montana’s Whitefish range and the vast wild mountains of British Columbia, majestic alpine landscapes surround us, with snow-covered summits and trails to fit any recreation style. American naturalist and preservationist John Muir famously wrote in 1873, “The mountains are calling and I must go.” Be more like John this winter. Our mountains are waiting for you. // AMY MCCAFFREE, SPECIAL SECTION EDITOR

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Fall Compost Fair & Leaf Festival Saturday, October 26, 2019 11 am-2 pm John A. Finch Arboretum Spokane County residents who complete the activities may take home a free compost bin. Limit one per household. Bins provided by the Spokane County Regional Solid Waste System. Please arrive no later than 1:30 pm and bring proof of residency.

For more information call 625-6580 or go to www.spokanecountysolidwaste.org Spokane County Regional Solid Waste System Partial funding provided by WA State Dept of Ecology.

Dispatches INDY PASS UNITES INDEPENDENT RESORTS PACIFIC NORTHWEST

In the wake of mega-resort consolidation, 36 independently-owned North American ski and snowboard resorts have banded together to offer the all-new Indy Pass. According to the National Ski Areas Association (NSAA), daily lift ticket prices have risen to an average of $131 across the country. By combining forces to offer a super affordable, multi-resort season pass for $199 to casual skiers and snowboarders, the Indy Pass partner resorts hope to ensure mutual growth in the face of continuing consolidation of highprofile, destination ski resorts. In a nutshell, this pass provides two free lift tickets to each of the 36 resorts, totaling 72 days of skiing and riding. Several Pacific Northwest resorts including 49 Degrees North, Mission Ridge, Silver Mountain, Brundage, Lost Trail, Red Lodge Mountain, and White Pass are part of the Indy Pass. These resorts are small to medium-sized, not already included on other multi-resort season passes, and many are family-run operations. And you can purchase a third ticket at each resort for at least 10% off the daily rate (discounts vary by resort). Indyskipass.com. (Jon Jonckers)

WINTER KICKOFF CARNIVAL NELSON, B.C.

Nelson, B.C., and the nearby village of Kaslo know how to make the most of the shoulder-season weeks before the snow piles up, the lifts start running, and there’s enough coverage in the backcountry. While the Kootenay Winter Kickoff festivities begin as early as Nov. 21 with the Banff Mountain Film Festival tour arriving in Nelson, the big draw this year is a weekend of events that get rolling with a Winter Kickoff Carnival downtown Nelson on Friday, Nov. 29. Walk through an illuminated archway and into a winter wonderland of music, interactive art, performances, food, kids’ activities and more. Head north an hour on Saturday for Light Up Kaslo for a parade, Christmas Faire, bonfire, music, and visit by Santa. Last year there was a cool kids’ scavenger hunt that involved many of the businesses around historic downtown Kaslo as well as other kids’ activities. The 32nd annual pantomime at Nelson’s Capital Theatre, Archie in Nelsondale, also promises to be an entertaining and familyfriendly live theater experience, with performances happening Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights during the Winter Kickoff Carnival. Finally, a trip to Nelson and Kaslo wouldn’t be complete without a soak in the mineral-rich waters at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort. Don’t forget your hiking boots for a walk on one of the trails around Nelson and Kaslo too. There are plenty of diverse lodging options in this corner of the Kootenays, but consider a central downtown option, like the historic Hume Hotel in Nelson, so that you can get around easily on foot or bike. Winterkickoff.com (Derrick Knowles)

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SANDPOINT, COEUR D’ALENE, & NEW! SPOKANE WONDER BUILDING HISTORIC DOWNTOWN KASLO, B.C. ON KOOTENAY LAKE. // PHOTO: SHALLAN KNOWLES

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

MISSION RIDGE GOES BIG

ANNUAL OUTDOOR GEAR SWAP

Like your waistline after the winter holidays, Mission Ridge is busting out of its seams. However, unlike the dread of dealing with your expanding belly, Mission’s expansion is something to celebrate and welcome. For more than 50 years, Mission Ridge has been an integral part of winter recreation in the greater Wenatchee Valley and North Central Washington, but its current infrastructure no longer keeps up with demands from recreationalists. This has sparked an expansion project that aims to shift Mission Ridge from primarily a day-use/local-use alpine ski area to a well-rounded destination resort facility with a full range of year-round outdoor opportunities. Highlights of the anticipated expansion include updating current lifts, an additional ski lodge, increased beginner terrain, and larger parking facilities to better accommodate peak volumes. It also includes newly developed Nordic and snowshoe trails and a tube and snow-play park. Long-distance visitors who have previously noticed the lack of on-site overnight accommodations will be pleased with almost 900 condominiums, townhomes, duplexes, and singlefamily homes planned as part of the expansion—75 percent of which will be dedicated as part-time vacation homes and short-term visitor accommodations. The expansion also includes nearly 90,000 square feet of retail space and associated parking with a new Village Base Area. The Mission Ridge expansion will occur in five key phases over multiple decades, but paperwork for the Master Planned Resort has already been submitted to Chelan County and the U.S. Forest Service, with intention to break ground winter of 2019. Throughout the expansion process, Mission’s priorities remain to maintain the values of stewardship, community, and the small mountain vibe while also keeping their roots and ties to the community. (Chris Gabrielli)

The University of Idaho Outdoor Program and UI Vandal Ski Team are holding the 45th Annual Outdoor Equipment Sale and Ski Swap on Thursday, November 7 at 6 p.m. in the Student Recreation Center’s MAC court. Admission is free and a table spot to sell your own equipment is $5. Private sellers should arrive between 5-6 p.m. to set up their table. All sales will be the responsibility of the individual. Expect to find some amazing deals and a great selection of outdoor equipment, including skis, snowboards, rafts, kayaks, wetsuits, tents, PFDs, sleeping bags, snow shoes, canoes, dry bags, climbing equipment, bikes, and other outdoor related items. For more information call 208-885-6810.

WENATCHEE, WASH.

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MOSCOW, IDAHO

UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO OUTDOOR PROGRAM GEAR SWAP. // PHOTO COURTESY OF UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO

COLUMBIA RIVER SOURCE TO SEA HOOD RIVER, OREGON

Claire Dibble continues to inspire and amaze while she paddles the length of the Columbia River in a single push. Beginning July 1, she started paddling at Canal Flats on Columbia Lake. From there, she set off down the mighty river through broad reservoirs and stiff headwinds. Part personal challenge and part photographic and art project, Dibble’s intention for the trip, as noted on her website, is “to build a portrait of the river and the people who live along it, creating a sense of connection upstream and downstream in the process.” John Roskelley, who literally wrote the book about paddling the length of the Columbia River, jumped at the chance to paddle with her for a few miles at Hanford Reach. In a recent Facebook post, he wrote, “She is undoubtedly the first woman to solo the river from source to sea and she's doing it in great style. Having paddled the entire length in stages, I am inspired by her tenacity and courage to do this alone and unaided.” Dibble averages roughly 13 miles per day. She paddles a beautiful, handmade, skin-on-frame kayak that she made with her father. On her website she wrote, “The design of the boat and the style of building both appealed to me, but a real closer was the weight. This boat is light as a feather (under 30 lbs.), which is good when there are 14 dams to work around.” At this point, she hopes to reach Astoria, Oregon, in October or early November. Learn more about her adventure or follow her online. Watershedmoments.art (Jon Jonckers) OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

Dispatches ZOMBIE HIKE SUPPORTS PARK FOUNDATION RIVERSIDE STATE PARK, WASH.

LAST YEAR'S OTO TRIP TO BIG WHITE. // PHOTOS: SHALLAN KNOWLES

2ND ANNUAL OUT THERE TRIP TO BIG WHITE

Out There Outdoors is hosting its second annual early-season ski and snowboard trip to Big White Ski Resort near Kelowna, British Columbia, December 13-15, 2019. The trip is an amazing deal for Out There readers, with slopeside, ski-in/ski-out rooms plus two lift tickets starting at $135 USD per night. Only 4.5 hours north of Spokane near Kelowna, Big White is Canada’s largest ski-in-ski-out village and has the second largest ski resort lift system in Canada (119 runs and 15 lifts). It’s also the best place in the Northwest to experience early-season skiing and snowboarding thanks to frequent November powder dumps, and there’s a happening resort village scene with dozens of restaurants and pubs. For those who want to stay longer, you can extend your stay for several days on either end at the same discount price. The exchange rate favoring the U.S. dollar also means you’ll save 30% on anything you buy while on the trip, from food and beverages to gear and gifts. While this is an Out There-sponsored trip, you are responsible for your own transportation. Once you’re there you can choose to join other Out There readers for a free après welcome party and make some new ski buddy friends or head out on your own to explore the mountain all weekend long with your own crew. All abilities are welcome and there are plenty of other activities if someone in your group would rather snowshoe, ice skate, or go tubing or Nordic skiing. Big White is super family friendly so bring the kids. More info at Bigwhite.com/ out-there-outdoors or give us a call at the Out There office (509-822-0123). (OTO) 10

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

If you have been in the Spokane area in October, you might be familiar with this annual evening of outdoor scary fun, that is if you like zombies jumping out at you in the dark woods. This year’s Zombie Hike, which includes a bonfire and food trucks, is set for October 19 in Riverside State Park from 7-9:30 p.m. at the Seven Mile Airstrip. Tickets are $10 for adults and kids ages 10 and up and $5 for kids under 10. What you may not know is that this horrifying good time has the added benefit of supporting a little-known but crucial group, the Riverside State Park Foundation. The foundation relies on funding from events like the Zombie Hike to help sustain the park, enhance visitors’ experiences, and promote responsible use of park resources. Many of us enjoy Riverside and take advantage of the hiking, biking, running, horse trails, climbs, water access, picnic areas, and solace it provides. But to help keep the park safe, enjoyable, and available for all often takes more money than the State Park budget allows. Lucky for us, there were some dedicated and visionary folks who saw a need and formed the non-profit Riverside State Park Foundation in 2002 that is separate from the state government but works closely with the state parks staff in identifying needs. Some people have the mindset that the money “taken” for Discover Pass fees and taxes should be enough, but the government funding for state parks are shared by all of the state parks across the state, and necessary Riverside State Park projects are put on a list of needs along with all of the others. In 2008, the recession hit hard, and the entire state parks system experienced drastic reductions in personnel and services. Much needed maintenance projects were put on indefinite hold, and the foundation stepped in to help. While the name may sound obscure and abstract, Riverside State Park Foundation is actually a dynamic, passionate group of 15 board members, including hikers, bike riders, kayakers, horse riders, off road enthusiasts, anglers, and nature nerds who share an overall love of the park. One of the coolest things about the foundation is that whatever money it raises at events like the Zombie Hike does not go to the far away reaches of Olympia but stays here to be used at Riverside to help map trails, enhance security, and improve trailheads. The foundation has also provided informational kiosks, signage, drinking fountains, equipment for volunteer trail maintenance, and much more. In addition to the Zombie Hike and other revenue sources, the foundation benefits from generous grants and donations from REI, Round and Round Productions, and Fairwood Animal Hospital. To learn more, donate, or volunteer, visit Riversidestateparkfoundation.org. The foundation currently has an open volunteer board position for someone with experience in technology, social media, fundraising, and event planning. Click the “Volunteer” button on its website if you’re interested. (OTO)

FALL LEAF FESTIVAL & COMPOST FAIR FINCH ARBORETUM, SPOKANE

The Spokane County Master Composters/Recyclers are once again hosting the semi-annual Compost Fair at the Finch Arboretum on Saturday, Oct. 26. The fair is being held as part of the Fall Leaf Festival and starts at 11 a.m. Attendees must arrive by 1:30 p.m. to complete all of the activities by the 2 p.m. close. Participants will learn how to make compost at home out of garden debris, food scraps, and leaves that will start falling from our colorful trees. Activity stations will demonstrate the materials that can be composted, types of bins to use, and how to build and turn a pile. Compost tea brewers, bokashi systems, and composting with worms will also be demonstrated. There will be handson experiences as well as great information shared by Spokane County Master C omp o s t e r s / R e c y c l e r s . The fair is free and open to everyone. Spokane County attendees can receive a free plastic compost bin after completing the learning stations. There is a limit of one bin per household and attendees must show proof of county residency. The bins are provided by the County Regional Solid Waste System with grant funds from the Washington Department of FALL FOLIAGE AT ITS FINEST AT FINCH ARBORETUM // Ecology. Also at the Finch PHOTO: SHALLAN KNOWLES Arboretum that day is the Fall Leaf Festival, sponsored by the City of Spokane’s Parks & Recreation Department. Information booths, kids’ activities, and beautiful fall colors await attendees. You can also play in a big pile of leaves. For more info on the Compost Fair, call 509-625-6580. (OTO)

EASTOBERFEST BRINGS BRATS & BIKES TO BEACON SPOKANE, WASH.

Evergreen East’s annual fall mountain bike race and fundraising social in support of the group’s trail building and maintenance efforts happens again this year on Sunday, October 13 at Camp Sekani Park. Last year 80 racers participated and organizers expect the race to continue to grow. The Oktoberfest theme of the event means the multi-stage enduro race covering favorite and lessridden Beacon Hill/Camp Sekani trails will also include brats, beer, camping for racers, and other bike shenanigans. “Last year we introduced Esmeralda parking lot challenges to the course with a ‘wheelie’ challenge, and this year we will have additional challenges,” says one of the event organizers, Andrea Frost. Racers can expect the same 4-stage format this year, but Frost says there will also be an additional bonus stage that will take place in the newly completed Central Park Pump Track. Registration is $60 for Evergreen members and $80 for non-members, with all proceeds going back to local trails. Race stages won’t be revealed until the Friday before the race, and online registration closes Oct. 11, with no day-of registration available. Race check in is Sunday morning at 9 a.m. for the 10 a.m. start. More info at Evergreenmtb.org/eastoberfest (Derrick Knowles)

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

HikeOfTheMonth ABERCROMBIE MOUNTAIN VIA FLUME CREEK TRAIL Colville National Forest // By Holly Weiler

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SAT U R DAY, N OV. 2 AT 6:00 P M & 9:00 P M THE SELKIRKS FROM ABERCROMBIE. // PHOTO: HOLLY WEILER

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NOT THAT THE INLAND NORTHWEST has particularly tall mountains, as the Selkirk Range can't quite measure up to Cascade standards for height, but Abercrombie Peak comes in as the second tallest mountain in eastern Washington at 7,308 feet. The nice part about moderately tall mountains is that they sometimes have trails leading directly to their summits. In the case of Abercrombie, hikers have three routes from which to choose. Abercrombie also makes the list of "ultra-prominent" peaks, or peaks with more than 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) of topographic prominence. Many western Washington summits outrank Abercrombie in overall height, but in terms of prominence, it comes in at lucky number seven in Washington and does not require the technical climbing skills necessary for those who want to ascend the mountains that outrank it. The majority of Abercrombie hikers climb the peak from its two western trailheads. For a new vantage point on a classic Inland Northwest hike, try the Flume Creek Trail on its eastern flank instead. It's a lovely compromise between the most popular approach from the Abercrombie trailhead, which provides the shortest route but starts on an old road bed in a former clearcut, and the North Fork Silver Creek trailhead, which boasts fantastic views in a more difficult and higher-mileage hike. Flume Creek is the Goldilocks option: just right with mature forests, gorgeous fall colors, outstanding views, and a moderate distance and grade. Flume Creek to North Fork Silver Creek is also a portion of the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT), a long-distance hiking trail connecting from Glacier National Park in Montana to the Pacific Ocean on the Olympic Peninsula. Section hiking portions of the PNT offers an excellent introduction to long trails in our region. Given Abercrombie's ultra-prominence status, it's no wonder the trail climbs steadily from the start. However, the trail was built at a consistent grade that doesn't have severely steep sections to contend with. It's just a constant up, best done at a steady pace with occasional stops to take in the view of the Pend Oreille River valley far below

or Canada just a short distance to the north. By October the surrounding forest boasts a nice mix of evergreen interspersed with bright yellow larch, while the lower growing deciduous shrubs fill in with various shades of red and orange. For those who would prefer to try this as a backpack trip, two small campsites exist along the route, the first at 1.9 miles from the trailhead and the second at the 3.1 mile mark. Both are dry campsites (no water), although sometimes by late fall there may be some snow available to melt. Otherwise, plan to pack all needed water for a trip here. At the second campsite, Flume Creek Trail intersects the Abercrombie Trail. Bear right and continue uphill about a mile to reach the rocky summit. The summit contains a few remnants bearing witness to its former fire lookout status. The lookout tower is long gone, but the stone steps and a small stone shelter remain. The neighboring peak, Hooknose, is a short off-trail scramble away for those who would like an increased difficulty level. After taking in the view, return via the same route. From late October into November, visitors will need to monitor weather reports for snow level and plan accordingly for trailhead access. ROUND-TRIP DISTANCE: 8 miles RATING: Moderate/difficult ELEVATION GAIN: 2,423 feet MAP: USGS Boundary Dam, USGS

Abercrombie

GETTING THERE: From Metaline, Washington

on Highway 31, turn left on Boundary Road. At 3.6 miles, turn left on Forest Road 350. Continue 7.5 miles to a small trailhead parking area on the right. High clearance recommended.

SUPPORT LOCAL TRAILS: Join the Washington Trails Association at a BLM-hosted National Public Lands Day volunteer event at Fishtrap Recreation Area on Oct. 5.

Holly Weiler writes the Hike of the Month for each issue.

Health&Fitness COMMIT BEFORE NEW YEARS // By Jon Jonckers

JAIMEE COX RUNNING ON THE CENTENNIAL TRAIL // PHOTO: JON JONCKERS

“I’LL START TOMORROW.” If tomorrow is the

day you’re going to the gym, then there’s a huge chance tomorrow will turn into the day after, and so on. In many cases, tomorrow might actually be preventing you from earning the Bloomsday second seed, a Boston-Qualifier, a new triathlon PR, or simply beating your spouse on Strava. Jaimee Cox owns Pure Barre, CycleBar, and Stretch Lab in Coeur d’Alene, and she knows what works and what doesn’t work. Even before she opened these fitness institutions, she competed in several triathlons and marathons around the country. Cox says, “Do yourself a favor and start now. Find someone to keep you accountable and go into all the holidays proud of what you’ve accomplished rather than wishing you could speed up time and start New Year’s Day.” So often, it’s the pesky New Year’s resolutions that derail the well-intentioned runner, biker, skier, or hiker. Due to so many recreational opportunities in our region, people often take fitness routines for granted. But in order to stay on track with goals and to see improvement, it’s imperative to adopt ways to stay fit all year— even the darkening months before the holidays. If you’re considering a fitness center, Cox says, “Talk to people about your goals. It might be a big giant goal that others would love to share and see you accomplish, or it might be something smaller that’s just a building block. Fitness is about growth, and if you’re enjoying the facility and the people who are there for similar reasons, you’re so much more likely to stay.” There are rows and rows of self-help books

dedicated to helping people reach their goals by going to a gym. But if you only see Instagram feeds and gym billboards, then you might not be aware of all of the great options in the area. The Union is a fantastic studio with yoga, spin classes, and TRX, and they have two convenient locations. Empire Fitness, in the Gonzaga University neighborhood, is a remarkable institution with onsite childcare, as well as indoor and rooftop yoga (weather permitting). The Pure Barre, CycleBar, and StretchLab in Coeur d’Alene are top-notch, and the staff is friendly and inviting. The one thing they all have in common is associates and instructors eager to make you laugh and make you sweat. When asked about the timid or reluctant athlete that has ambitions but doesn’t feel comfortable in a fitness studio, Jaimee Cox flashes a big smile. She has answered this question a hundred times, and she completely understands why this inquiry comes up for so many people, men and women, young and old. Cox says, “I truly believe in being strong, proud of who you are, and that the hardest first step in fitness is the one out of your comfort zone. It’s not about being the best; it’s about diving into what it means to be healthy and to have fun while you exercise. Every new adventure has some intimidation factor or leaves you nervous, and I think that’s a good thing. It means you’re pushing yourself. Odds are, YOU are inspiring so many others if you make the first step past your comfort zone.” // Jon Jonckers is an associate editor with Out There. He believes New Year’s resolutions are the election promises of everyday life. OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

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Biking GRIZZLIES AND GRANNY GEARS

Fall Mountain Biking in Fernie, B.C. // By Aaron Theisen

THE BIKE SHOP THAT COMES TO YOU

LEFT: NAT MCGRATH RIDING IN FERNIE PROVINCIAL PARK. // NAT MCGRATH DROPPING A WOOD FEATURE ON WILL POWER AT FERNIE ALPINE RESORT PHOTOS: AARON THEISEN

IT’S EARLY EVENING, and my riding buddy Nat and I are pedaling toward Brokeback Ridge on the wooded slopes of Fernie Provincial Park outside Fernie, B.C. Word on the trail is Brokeback, a mile-long black-diamond luge run, is on every Fernie local’s top five list. We hear a loud crash and branches snapping. We stop. Silence. Then a loud sandpapery scratching and a loud exhalation of (no doubt human flesh-tinged) breath. It’s certainly something big, and we’ve got grizzlies on the mind after having been warned away from several trails at Fernie Alpine Resort owing to bear activity earlier in the day. “You wanna get out of here?” I ask Nat. “Yep!” We spin the bikes around and speed off. Turns out Brokeback Ridge truly is on every local’s top five list. Fortunately, this community of around 5,000 boasts over 100 named trails, so things never get crowded, whether with two wheels or four legs, but come fall the trails seem especially empty. Located in the east Kootenays, 40 minutes from both the Montana and Alberta borders, Fernie is still very much a blue-collar mountain town; despite the weekly influx of Albertans, mining and logging are still the top two industries. Cut blocks occasionally close cherished riding zones, but riders have plenty of alternate choices, and trails typically get a facelift once the timber company moves on. Fernie’s riding is less shuttle-centered than some communities, a fact that will become apparent the first time a local smokes you on a climb up a classic like Swine Flu. Fernie trail builders never met a steep climbing turn they didn’t like, and many of the area’s most wellregarded routes are black-diamond climbs where “cleaning” every switchback is a local badge of honor. Even if you don’t encounter a bear, your heart rate will skyrocket. In fact, it’s easy to go car-free on a Fernie bike trip. From a campsite at Fernie Provincial Park (complete with shaded sites, free hot showers and potable water) or from one of the many intown lodging options, riders can pedal directly

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

onto dozens of classic trails in Fernie Provincial Park, some of which connect to Fernie Alpine Resort. Despite the community’s trail-building bona fides, one need not be an expert rider to make the most of a visit. The city has built a sprawling skills park for the groms, conveniently located next to the aquatic centre. Nearby, the trails of the Castle Mountain area crisscross the Nordic trail system on a network of smooth climbs and descents. Then there’s Lazy Lizard. The five-mile machine-built trail connects the campground at Fernie Provincial Park (via a short connector) to Island Lake Lodge. A favorite local ride is to pedal up to the lodge and enjoy dinner and

drinks on the outdoor deck, which surveys the lodge’s famed ski terrain on the steep slopes of the Lizard Range. It’s an experience that typifies the riding here: both casual and hardcore, just enough work to make you feel like you’ve earned the rewards at the end. And the post-drinks descent, on highspeed berms under a sprawling awning of cedar and aspen, should rewrite your top five. Just don’t forget your bear calls. // Aaron Theisen is the author of “Day Hiking Glacier National Park and Western Montana.” He wrote about mountain biking in the McCall area for the September issue.

PLANNING A FALL FERNIE ROAD TRIP

Just over a 4.5-hour drive from Spokane, and even closer from North Idaho, Fernie is an authentic mountain town nestled in the dramatic peaks of the Canadian Rockies and an epic escape for trail lovers of all types. The abundance of mountain biking, hiking, and running trails that surround the historic downtown, from challenging singletrack to family-friendly biking and hiking paths, are enough to keep you busy for a weekend. But why not plan your trip around one of these events for a bit of local culture and even more fun? OCT. 6: FERNIE HALF MARATHON, 3-PERSON RELAY & 10K RUN

An all-trail course that winds along the Elk River and follows a beautiful, challenging community trail system. OCT. 12: OKTOBERFEST AT FERNIE ALPINE RESORT

Enjoy craft beers, food, entertainment, and crazy contests with Bavarian flair. OCT. 19: 5TH ANNUAL GREAT PUMPKIN HUNT

Join the Fernie Nordic Society for this fun, family-friendly pumpkin hunt at the beautiful Elk Valley Nordic Centre. NOV. 1-3: YOGA RETREAT AT LIZARD CREEK LODGE

Recharge mind, body, and soul at the Yoga in the Mountains Retreat. NOV. 8-9: FERNIE SKI & BOARD FILM FESTIVAL & SKI SWAP

Celebrate snow with inspiring films and deals on ski and board gear. NOV. 30: OPENING DAY FOR FERNIE ALPINE RESORT

Bring the boards and fat bike for a Fernie multi-sport weekend! More info at Tourismfernie.com/events. (OTO)

Flashback THE HISTORY OF THE WANDERMERE SKI HILL // By Lisa Laughlin

FANS GATHER TO WATCH SKI JUMPING AT WANDERMERE IN 1933. // PHOTO COURTESY OF NUART STUDIO OF SPOKANE

TODAY’S WANDERMERE GOLF COURSE, locat-

ed in the Little Spokane River Valley north of Spokane, is perhaps best known for, well, golf. The property has an interesting history, however, thanks to the Ross family of Spokane, who dreamed of creating a yearround recreational playground. In the 1930s, they decided the place wouldn’t be complete without a ski jump. The art of ski jumping had recently caught on in Spokane, and construction on the Wandermere Ski Hill began in 1932. The pinefilled hillside above the golf course was cleared via the modern method of the day—a team of horses. The Ross family spared no energy with planning, bringing renowned engineer and president of the Northwest Ski Association Peter Hostmark in on the project. They cleared the hill, structured a 34-degree angle, and made plans to show it off: The 700-foot ski hill would be introduced to the world of competitive ski jumping on Jan. 15, 1933. It was anticipated to provide a max jump distance of 185 feet. The Wandermere Ski Hill, which had relatively low altitude, faced a lack of snow just before the scheduled competition. It was the sort of problem that didn’t intimidate a dreamer; to pack the slope, workers used a car and sled to pull snow from the shaded areas of the Wandermere Golf Course. They put straw on the hillside first to help the snow stick. Large piles of hay were also placed at the end of the hill to act as “brakes” for skiers, who were meant to dive into the hay for a safe stop. To the top skiers of the time, it must have looked like a whole lot of fun. Skiers traveled in from across the Pacific Northwest and Canada for the big day. Despite being an event with entry fees held during the Great Depression, 22,000 people came to watch.

Perhaps they’d heard the “brakes” were hay bales. The crowd caused the largest traffic jam that Spokane had seen to date. Competitors were judged on both distance and form, but strong winds prevented skiers from making top distances. Still, it had to be entertaining to watch the skiers land, as they clocked speeds up to 100 miles per hour by the bottom of the hill. A competition was planned for the following year, with the goal of being bigger and better. The Wandermere hill was carved out that summer so it was even steeper, and scaffolding was added to extend the jump runway. Once again, however, there wasn’t enough snow by the competition. Snow was shipped in via train from the Cascade Mountains, which proved a pricey solution. The 1934 competition went on, but the snow was wet and slow. In the years that followed, the Wandermere Ski Club was formed, a ski lodge was built, and two smaller ski hills were built for recreational skiing and ski jumping. Another ski jump competition took place at Wandermere in 1938. Wandermere hoped to host the 1939 Olympic trials, but the 1940 Winter Olympics were cancelled due to World War II. The Wandermere ski jump event lost momentum after that, and they hosted only one more competition in the 1950s. Today, the Wandermere Ski Hill has been reclaimed by nature. For more on the history of Wandermere, read Wandermere: Legacy on the Little Spokane River, written by local Ross-family-descendant Ty Brown. Historical information from this book was used for this article. // Lisa Laughlin is an associate editor at Out There. She wrote about the history of the Trolley Trail in the July issue.

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Provisions

(n.) food, drink, or equipment, especially for a journey. CBD DRINK: // PHOTO: S. MICHAL BENNETT

PHOTO: S. MICHAL BENNETT

PUMPKIN—BEYOND CARVING AND PIES

PHOTO COURTESY OF CROWN & THISTLE PUB

THE CROWN & THISTLE PUB

For the imbiber, nothing says fall like a solid Oktoberfest beer and a juicy handmade sausage. You can get both at The Crown & Thistle, a true European pub that opened this past spring in the heart of downtown Coeur d’Alene. Owned and operated by Benjamin and Jennifer Drake, well-known denizens in the Coeur d’Alene community, this pub offers a full line up of British and European beers and ciders, local beers and ciders, and three cask taps. The menu features all the traditional fare, from bacon butty to Scotch eggs, Welsh rarebit, chips with your choice of topper, pies, fish and chips, and, of course bangers and mash. Ben is the resident wurstmeister. Ask him about his sausages and watch his eyes sparkle. On weekends you can also order a full English breakfast with sausage, bacon, eggs, beans, toast, tomatoes, mushrooms and coffee—and maybe a side of mushy peas. The Crown & Thistle is the perfect spot to watch a game of footie on the telly with a Guinness in hand or to experience Ben and Jen’s legendary monthly trivia nights, which is Halloween themed on Oct. 27. German beers are taking over the taps for Oktoberfest, and it’s sure to be a lively celebration at their Halloween party on Oct. 31. (S. Michal Bennett)

The pumpkin, along with the rest of the gourd family, is native to the western hemisphere and has been cultivated in North America for at least 5,000 years. They are a staple during the U.S. Thanksgiving meal and North American harvest festivals. Thanks to Irish immigrants, they are also the modern choice for carving jack-o’-lanterns. Although we like to add a profusion of butter, brown sugar, and maple syrup to our pumpkins, on their own they are low in calories and fat, high in fiber, and an excellent source of vitamin A, vitamin B, potassium, and iron. Here are some delicious ideas that can enhance pumpkin nutrition and take you beyond pumpkin pie. First, make your own canned pumpkin, without the can. Remove the stem and seeds of a small pumpkin, roast in a 375-degree oven (with the seeds, if desired) until easily pierced with a knife, then puree in a blender or food processor until smooth. Second, make it savory. Pumpkin hummus can be made with garbanzo beans or white beans. Add more fiber to pumpkin mac and cheese with some wilted spinach. Pumpkin curry brings together seasonal flavors with stimulating spices and creamy coconut milk. Dress your green smoothie for fall with a dollop of pumpkin puree. For a twist on sweet, make your own pumpkin butter and add it to milkshakes, oatmeal, energy balls, and a simple slice of toast. (S. Michal Bennett)

GF V 16

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PHOTO: HARLEY MCALLISTER

TORTILLA BACKPACKING MEALS

One of the fun things about hiking and backpacking is getting plenty of exercise, which means you can justify a few extra calories. If you are going on a long or intense backpack trip, consuming enough calories can actually be a challenge. Serious backpackers try to find foods with 100 calories per ounce, which isn’t easy—especially if you want quality calories. With that in mind, here are some lunch options that are calorie dense, easy to make, won’t get crushed in your pack, and won’t break the bank. Start with a tortilla. Depending on size and brand, these can be anywhere from 90-120 calories each. Option one is for peanut butter (100 calories per tablespoon) with M&Ms added. These little chocolate nuggets are about three calories each. Option two uses Nutella (also 100 calories per tablespoon) with crispy bacon bits added. Bacon averages 43 calories per 8-ounce slice. A third option is worth mentioning, albeit not for backpacking. If you are car camping, or raft camping and have a means for keeping things cold, think about a Caesar chicken wrap. Pre-cooked strips of chicken are available at any grocery store. Then add cut romaine lettuce, shredded parmesan, dressing, and even some croutons. We love these wraps served cold on a hot evening while rafting, and we’ll bet you’ll love them as an easy to prep travel meal as well. (Harley McAllister)

keto

PHOTO: JON JONCKERS

SPICY LEMONADE BY DRY FLY WHISKEY

Lemonade with a kick! The Spicy Lemonade from Spokane’s Dry Fly is what all other lemonades wish they could become—not too bitter and not too spicy, but the right balance of citrus sweetness with a splash of Dry Fly Vodka. Dry Fly Distillery began creating specialty cocktails with their own spirits back when their tasting room opened in March 2017. It didn’t take long before the Spicy Lemonade infused with jalapeno proved to be a crowd pleaser. Migrating the premium cocktail to an aluminum can opens up a whole new universe for outdoor enthusiasts. It’s easy to pack, glass free, and very compact after it’s consumed. Plus, aluminum is recyclable. The award-winning Dry Fly Vodka tastes great, yet the drink is only 5.4 percent ABV, which means its alcohol content mirrors most cans of craft IPA beer. If Spicy Lemonade makes your lips pucker, definitely take a look at their other packable cocktails. Dry Fly ready-to-enjoy Gin & Tonic features their award-winning Washington gin, craft tonic syrup from Side Hustle Syrups, and house-made bitters. The Moscow Mule features Dry Fly Vodka, craft ginger syrup from Side Hustle Syrups, and lime juice to give you a unique and refreshing taste of the best distillery in the Northwest. (Jon Jonckers) //

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Eatology THE PROCESS OF IMPROVEMENT // By Ammi Midstokke

RECENTLY WE LOST A FAMILY MEMBER to

the things that cause a body to rebel against its natural functions. It wasn’t something we could precisely pinpoint, but rather an ailment or condition here, some medical history there. Then one day the blips became a bang and we were left watching his empty vessel of a body take its last breath. We went back in time to his home to clean it out and do the bizarre work of peeping into one’s personal affairs and private spaces. It’s an awful job. You become a voyeur of secrets, bad habits, and all the things we hope no one ever learns about us. Like how many hotel shampoos we’ve collected over the years, or just how out of date

the condiments in our fridge are. As I picked through the most recent months of life in a now vacant home, I couldn’t help but notice all the good intentions. So many things had been begun. So many possibilities for a different outcome were spread throughout the rooms. But they had not been used. The living room was evidence of an inspired shopping habit and a deep curiosity about health. There were books on nutrition, exercise science, the latest health trends. There were boxes of recently received supplements of all sorts: supplements for energy, supplements for testosterone improvement, supplements for antiaging and vitality and brain health and heart

health. Unopened. Unread. In the mayhem of this was also a brand new rowing machine, freshly unpacked and assembled, just waiting to be used. It may have been there for months, but no one had ever rowed it. If he had rowed it, or taken his expensive vitamins, if he had just taken the next step, would he still be here? Forces beyond my understanding seem to know when it is our time, but that doesn’t mean we can’t mess around with the statistics a bit. How many good intentions do we have? How many unfinished starts lay in our living rooms? And what keeps us from making the progress we hope for? It would seem that we have a culture of rock bottom and picture perfect that can overwhelm the idea of anything in between. We often don’t motivate ourselves to make a change until it is desperately and obviously needed. I have no doubt that if he had come home from the hospital, he would have taken those anti-oxidanttestosterone-boosting-magic-pills and gave the rower what-for. We don’t have to wait to get that far down to create healthful change in our lives. We don’t have to wait until our spouse asks for divorce to get therapy. Heart attacks don’t have to be our wake up calls. Alcoholism doesn’t have to be why we choose to tone down our boozing. Equally, we must learn to envision our-

selves, and find pride, in the process of improvement. We often make this process harder by comparing ourselves to our Best Ever Version or our Imagined Perfect Version. Anything that has not arrived there yet is thus Not Good Enough. The critical voice in our head can be paralyzing. We then just wait until we get to our lowest low and the discomfort is strong enough for us to fantasize about bikini bodies, going vegan, or running a marathon just long enough to make a change. Few of us ever reach those lofty goals. Most of us disparage ourselves while we are trying. Then we’re even worse when we “fail.” Stop it. Find the tiny things you can do to improve yourself. Know that some days you will get there and other days you won’t. Don’t fear the journey, the awkward slow runs after a hiatus, buying gym clothes that fit your post-holiday body, the three days a week you actually remember to take your vitamins. Get on the damn rower, even if you just sit there. Tomorrow, you might actually try rowing. And that is an improvement. // Ammi Midstokke can be found in the mountains of North Idaho, improving her endurance some days, and other days improving her patience. Last month she wrote about taking a moment to exhale once in a while.

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

Everyday Cyclist GRAVEL GAINS TRACTION // By Justin Skay

RIDE THE PASS. // PHOTO: COURTESY OF JUSTIN SKAY

IF YOU’RE STILL RIDING rural fence lines on your

ADVENTURE TRAVEL PACKS

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

rusty Stumpjumper, and on the fence about the irrepressible rise of the gravel bike, it might be time to put assumptions like the image of the upstanding, Spandex-clad roadie aside. A gravel bike may not seem like a necessary addition to your two-wheeled toolset, but it may be the multitool that replaces half the outmoded machinery gathering dust in your garage. “This is quite possibly the most versatile series of bikes that ever existed,” touts Mojo Cyclery owner Morgan Johnson. “There are no holdbacks or drawbacks….” “You can actually own just one bike,” agrees a shop regular overhearing our conversation on the explosive growth in gravel bike sales. The Mojo shop is notably community centered and enthusiasts gather for themed rides throughout the week. On a still-hot summer evening, 18 local gravel converts—all but two of us on light, fast, wide-tired dirt road speedsters— left from the Mojo shop in Spokane Valley, rode trails up Beacon Hill, then flew down its paved, winding backside. We wound back along the Spokane river on Hobo Lane, a segment of wellworn urban trail connecting some of the 50+ miles of gravel road in the city limits, most of them on the east side. Spokane County encompasses around 1,000 miles of gravel or seasonal-use roads, according to their website. With abundant connectivity to the city-wide spiderweb of singletrack trails, this may be the perfect place to test the flexibility of these new hybrid cycles, composites of road, cyclocross, touring, and mountain bikes. Gravel bikes incorporate a long wheelbase and low bottom bracket for stability with wider chainstays and forks for voluminous tires. Many braze-on options accommodate the plethora of racks, attachments, and bags built for the burgeoning bike-packing industry, whose meteoric rise mirrors that of gravel riding. The bike’s geometry facilitates a more-upright-than-road riding position, as scenery supersedes speed in riders’ priorities, allowing them to withstand long miles of chunky washboards in relative

comfort. If that all sounds a bit like your touring bike, it is—on a diet that would be disconcerting if the bike was human. While e-bikes comprise an ever-increasing share of annual bicycle sales, an accompanying surge in gravel bikes has kept their purely peoplepowered counterparts competitive. Nationwide, gravel-ready bike sales nearly tripled between 2017 and 2018, according to Bicycle Retailer. Locally, Mojo is smartly riding this wave. “We see our groups growing and growing. We see them becoming more diverse, which I love. It’s neat to see the people that are like, ‘I want to try it out,’ and come back with a smile on their face,” Johnson beams. At the end of almost 20 miles of multi-surface summer fun, beer in hand, there was certainly one on mine. “…I enjoy it because it gets me off paved roads,” contends Justin Montgomery from the Coeur d’Alene Trek Store. “We have some amazing paved roads around here, but we also have the Coeur d’Alene National Forest in our backyard, with endless Forest Service roads, so having something I can do both with just makes more financial and comfort sense.” During a second organized gravel ride called Ride the Passes, on back roads from Wallace over Lookout and Moon passes, lugging my leaden touring bike through the billowing dust clouds of dedicated gravel grinders, I was in total agreement. You may be able to ride many kinds of bikes on gravel, but you won’t be able to ride many miles comfortably or quickly. If you want to keep up with the growing gravel industry and its long-ride frontrunners, or to follow fellow cyclists off of busy, dangerous pavement into more scenic, serene surroundings, you’ll need the machine this very magazine called “one ride to rule them all.” // Justin Skay has three bikes, all of which could be ridden on gravel, and upon none of which would he win the Dirty Spokanza, Spokane’s very own gravel race. He wrote about some of the diverse biking opportunities in Ferry County in the August issue.

Autumn In the Alpine HIKING IN THE WALLOWAS

AS FALL APPROACHES and the weather starts

to turn, so do the aspen in northeast Oregon’s Wallowa Mountains. Pockets of colorful trees dot the Wallowa valley, turning vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red once the temperatures start dropping. But while you’re likely to see the tree’s brilliant fall foliage, there’s one thing you aren’t likely to run into in autumn: crowds. Take advantage of the solitude to explore the spectacular Lakes Basin on this 32-mile loop, which showcases the best the Wallowas have to offer. From the Wallowa Lakes Trailhead ($5 parking fee or Northwest Forest Pass required), start hiking up the East Fork Wallowa Trail. The grade is gentle, and the trail passes through several meadows that open up to views of conical-shaped mountains carved from sedimentary rock.

Reach Aneroid Lake at 6.4 miles, which is a great spot to camp if you got a late start from the trailhead. It’s also a great spot to fish because the state stocks rainbow trout here every two years. Continuing up the trail, you’ll reach a broad alpine plateau overlooking Jewett Lake near mile 8, tucked in a depression at 8,300 feet. Jewett Lake is a spectacular spot to spend the night, though the lack of cover makes it an undesirable campsite in bad weather. At 8.6 miles you’ll make a right onto the Polaris Trail and ascend to panoramic views atop Polaris Pass at mile 12.6. Hopefully you’ve got a good pair of hiking poles because you’re about to enter switchback purgatory—over 50 switchbacks drop you 2,000 feet to the East Fork Wallowa River below. Frazier Lake, near mile 15, sits at the foot of a string of waterfalls cascading down a granite cliff

BY PAUL CHISHOLM

and has several good campsites. But if you hike 2.5 miles farther to Glacier Lake, you can camp amongst the bonsai-like trees of the Wallowa’s alpine zone. Take your pick—you can’t go wrong. When you wake in the morning, you’ll likely encounter the reason many people avoid the Wallowas in October—temperatures drop well below freezing at night, and mornings can be frosty. But instead of hiding in your tent, embrace the crisp autumn air by brewing a pot of coffee and wrapping yourself in your sleeping bag on the lakeshore. Watch the morning mist drift across the surface of the water as the first warm rays of sun peak over the horizon. Just don’t linger too long—you’ve still got some walking to do. From Glacier Lake, the trail climbs to Glacier Pass at 8,500 feet before descending into the popular Lakes Basin area. The trail twists and

turns for roughly 6 miles through the Lakes Basin, passing too many emerald lakes and spectacular campsites to list separately. The trees are sparse in this boulder-strewn landscape, and the glacier-scoured granite is speckled with numerous ponds and potholes. Several loop trails snake through the basin, making it a great place to explore for an afternoon after you’ve set up camp. Eventually, you’ll have to leave the Lakes Basin and descend to the West Fork Wallowa Trail near mile 26. Follow the river down valley for roughly 6 miles of easy walking back to the trailhead. // Paul Chisholm is a biologist with the U.S. Forest Service in southeast Alaska. He wrote about Rachel Lake for the September issue of Out There.

ICE LAKE WEEKEND HIKE Not feeling up for a 32-mile loop? Consider the 14.6-mile roundtrip hike to Ice Lake. You’ll still get the alpine lakes, fall color views, and high craggy peaks for a fraction of the effort. From the Wallowa Lake Trailhead, head up the West Fork Wallowa Trail through lush forest for 2.5 miles. Turn right on the Ice Lake Trail and cross the gurgling torrent on a rustic wooden bridge. Switchback up the mountain for 4.8 miles, passing sparkling waterfalls. To minimize your impact, set up camp at least 200 feet from the shore of Ice Lake, set beneath the 9,826-foot granite summit of the Matterhorn, one of the tallest peaks in the Wallowas. Scrambling up the Matterhorn is a popular, non-technical climb, but be sure you have enough time and the right weather for it—the climb takes at least 4-5 hours roundtrip from Ice Lake. The view from the wind-scoured summit is worth it, extending across northeast Oregon to the dry ridges of the Blue Mountains and the jagged defile of Hells Canyon. When you’ve had your fill, retrace your steps the next day to return to the trailhead.

DAY HIKING OREGON’S LARGEST NATURE RESERVE If the mountains aren’t your style, then drop into the lowlands and take a walk in Oregon’s largest nature reserve. The 51-square-mile Zumwalt Prairie explodes with lupine, camas, and balsamroot wildflowers in the spring and preserves one of the most intact bunchgrass prairie ecosystems in North America. From the Duckett Barn, set out on Patti’s Trail—a 2.3-mile loop that passes through shallow drainages and swaths of native prairie. In warmer months, butterflies can be found in abundance here foraging amongst the wildflowers. Look for the regal, orange and black Milbert’s tortoiseshell butterfly or the readily identifiable yellow and black wings of the western tiger swallowtail. Songbirds and raptors—like the western meadowlark and ferruginous hawk—are abundant, too, and are one of the main reasons this property was initially purchased and set aside by the Nature Conservancy. From Enterprise, drive on Highway 82 south for 3 miles and turn left on Crow Creek Road. Drive 5 miles and turn right on Zumwalt/Buckhorn Road. Drive 14 miles and turn right on Duckett Road. Drive 1.4 miles and park at the Duckett Barn, which has a parking lot and an information kiosk.

TOP: THE AUTHOR BESIDE GLACIER LAKE. // LEFT: DON'T EXPECT ANY WILDFLOWERS COME FALL // THIS PHOTO: MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS NEAR POLARIS PASS. PHOTOS: PAUL CHISHOLM

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

Nature

PLIGHT OF THE NORTH CASCADES GRIZZLY // By Adam Gebauer

PHOTO COURTESY OF CONSERVATION NORTHWEST

WE COOKED DINNER well away from our tents,

packed up all our smelly items, and—with dark setting in—we finally hung our food from the perfect branch. We crawled into our sleeping bags with our headlights and bear spray easily accessible. If you travel in bear country, you know the protocol. In grizzly bear country of Montana, Idaho, and British Columbia, we make sure to be particularly vigilant; but what about the North Cascades? Along with being an emblematic symbol of the West and wilderness areas, grizzlies provide many ecosystem benefits. Their scat is a perfect incubator for seeds of berry bushes, and they aerate soil as they dig up roots. Many Native

Americans and First Nation tribes see the grizzly bears as kin that showed their ancestors what and when to eat: bulbs and roots in the spring, berries in the summer, fish in the fall. There has not been a verified grizzly bear sighted in the U.S. portion of the North Cascades since 1996, and only two sightings in Canada, one in 2010 and 2013. Grizzlies can be elusive, but biologists estimate that there are less than 10 bears in the region. With such a low population, the North Cascades grizzly’s chances of survival are bleak without intervention. For over 30 years there has been a plan to restore a self-sustained population of these charismatic omnivores to this part of their historic range.

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

The North Cascades Grizzly Bear Recovery Plan started in 1993 with a Habitat Quality Plan that determined the North Cascades Ecoregion—an area spanning 13,000 square miles from north of I-90 all the way to Highway 3 in British Columbia—had sufficient habitat to support a healthy, self-sustaining population of up to 200 grizzly bears. Since then there have been some fits and starts to the restoration effort. It took almost 20 years for the lead agencies, which include the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, and U.S. Fish and Wildlife, to start the environmental impact statement (EIS). In 2014 the three-year EIS process was started, but in August 2017, all work on the reintroduction program stopped. Well, it is back on again. As of late July, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife and National Park Service announced that they have reopened the EIS public comment period until Oct. 24. The EIS is designed to look at all the potential impacts, present different alternative actions, and solicit public input. These actions range from “no action,” which let grizzly bears try to recover (or not) on their own, to reaching the recommended population number of 200 in as little as 25 years. During the 2014-2017 EIS process, over 120,000 comments were collected. Most voters supported a moderate approach in which five bears a year would be introduced for five years to start a founding population.

Along with the North Cascades, there are other grizzly bear recovery zones in the U.S.: the Northern Continental Divide, Cabinet-Yaak Wilderness, Selkirk Range, Greater Yellowstone, and the Bitterroot Ecosystem of Idaho. Joe Scott is the international program director for the wildlife organization Conservation Northwest and works to inform people on both sides of the border about the grizzly’s reintroduction to the North Cascades. He provided some perspective on how the North Cascades compares to other recovery zones. The Greater Yellowstone has around 900 grizzly compared to the target of 200 for the North Cascades. The Cabinet-Yaak recovery zone had 15 grizzly 30 years ago when the process started and currently has 55-60. The North Cascades has three times the area of the Cabinet-Yaak, includes more diverse habitat, and is also 97 percent public land. This is your chance to help guide the process about recovering this apex species to a wild corner of Washington State’s public lands. The comment period is open until Oct. 24, and you can add yours thoughts at parkplanning.nps.gov/ grizzlydeis. // Adam Gebauer saw several black bear this summer, but the last bear he saw was his tailless cat named Little Bear. He recently wrote about the reintroduction of pronghorn in the September issue of Out There.

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Adults $479 // youth $379 (7-17) // senior $349 (62-69) // college & military $379 // super senior $349 (70+) // midweek $309 // child (under 6) $25. Pass bonus deals: 25% off tickets to RED, Whitewater, & Fairmont Hot Springs Resort; $5 off lift tickets at Schweitzer, Silver, Lookout, & 49; and three free tickets to Mission Ridge, White Pass, Loup Loup, and Sunlight Mountain Resort.

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SHREDDING IN THE DIGITAL AGE BY ADAM GEBAUER

PRESEASON IS THE TIME to follow Alice down

the digital rabbit holes, where skiers and boarders can get stats on resorts, discover motivation to train, scope out new gear, find some new riding friends, and generally up our stoke. Whether planning your escape to Colorado or trying to find the best powder between our regional resorts, OpenSnow.com and OntheSnow. com let you easily compare snow reports, open lifts, and base depth for entire regions. These sites also feature trail cams, resort forecasts, historical snowfall, and reviews. Sometimes skiers and riders can take themselves too seriously, but Instagram’s Jerry of the Day has the cure. Jerry represents epic fails, fun fashion, and the silly side of the mountain. I have a few friends who face-planted their way onto the website. If you are tired of the overly broh-i-ness in a lot of ski culture, TheSkiDiva.com is the website to check out. This site recently compiled a list of every ski swap in the country, offers tips for skiing on the cheap this season, and hosts a woman’s only forum. The moderator even writes ski bum mysteries. We have several sources for great local info and stoke, particularly when it comes to backcountry riding. PanhandleBackcountry.com features backcountry skiing and splitboarding in north Idaho and western Montana. This is a great site for finding trip reports, meeting riding friends, getting avalanche safety tips, and scoping out some used local gear. What started as an email group for the growing backcountry crowd in the Spokane area, B.C. Ski Friends is now a well-choreographed website geared to creating community and sharing info about gear, safety, and adventure. Check out the carpet skiing video! Before heading out to the local backcountry, there is a mandatory check of the U.S. Forest Service’s avalanche forecasting site, idahopan-

handleavalanche.org. This site has three forecast areas: Kootenai, Selkirk/Cabinets, and Saint Regis/Silver Valley. And if traveling north of the border, Canada has an excellent avalancheforecasting site, avalanche.ca. Also, backcountryskiingcanada.com is a wealth of knowledge on routes, trip reports, and gear reviews. It is important to learn how to use forecasting sites when planning your backcountry epic. If it is too risky to check the snow report every 20 minutes at work, you can plug into ski and boarding podcasts. Dirt Bag Diaries tells stories about all kinds of adventures, many of which focus on riding. WildSnow is a backcountry-focused podcast sponsored by The North Face, featuring their athletes’ epic adventures. WintryMix covers varying aspects of mountain culture including running a bar in a ski town, the rise of co-working spaces in ski towns, and a recent episode about Schweitzer, where the host states about Spokane, “It feels like Boulder but with a lower cost of living.” Have you ever tried to keep a ski group together on the mountain, made plans to meet at the bottom of the lift, only to spend half an hour waiting? Well, they have apps to prevent that. Apps like SkiLynx and Snocru use GPS and detailed trail maps to show you where your riding party is on the mountain, including that buddy sitting at the bar. This app can also tack your runs and other metrics to share on social media. There is a lot of media out there for us to play on, learn with, and connect to. This was just a glimpse into the rabbit hole, you can go as deep as you want—just make sure to take time for riding. // Adam Gebauer probably won’t be tracking his fastest descent but would love to have an app that guarantees he won’t forget his coffee on the counter when he gets up for dawn patrol.

PRE-SEASON EVENTS ON THE MOUNTAIN

PRE-SEASON PARTIES, FILMS & EVENTS For many of us, our beloved winter sports kick off months in advance of the first chairlift ride or skin track climb. All around the Inland Northwest, there are more parties, swaps, ski flicks, and traditions than ever to get our minds, bodies, and gear ready for the coming snowy season. OCTOBER 10: THE ESSENTIALS OF BACKCOUNTRY SKIING

Learn about ski, boot, and skin options for the backcountry, along with info on basic safety tools. 7 p.m. at Mountain Gear in Spokane. Details on Facebook. OCTOBER 17: IDAHO PANHANDLE AVALANCHE CENTER MOVIE FUNDRAISER

Two films and a raffle at Spokane’s Garland Theater to benefit IPAC: The splitboarding film “Through Darkness” turns out the lights and cranks up the passion in northern Norway’s polar darkness and “The Collective,” a new ski film from Faction Skis.

decades of ski cinematography while looking toward the future. Celebrate the timeless tradition with two showings at Spokane’s Bing Crosby Theater, 6 and 9 p.m. Get your tickets early at Spokane Alpine Haus. NOVEMBER 2: 49 DEGREES NORTH JOB FAIR

Work where you ski or snowboard this season or during the holidays. Check online for more details.

OCT. 23-NOV. 9: WARREN MILLER'S "TIMELESS" COMES TO NORTH IDAHO

OCTOBER 26-27: MT. SPOKANE SKI PATROL SKI SWAP

Catch Warren Miller’s latest ski and snowboard film at multiple North Idaho locations this year: Moscow, Oct. 23; Coeur d’Alene, Oct. 25; Wallace, Oct. 26; and Sandpoint, Nov. 9.

The biggest swap around, with over 22,000 new and used ski and snowboard gear items for sale, including backcountry and Nordic equipment and kids gear. All proceeds benefit the Mt. Spokane Ski Patrol. Friday drop-off of gear to sell, 3-8 p.m.; swap sale runs 9-5 Saturday and 9-noon Sunday at the Spokane Fair & Expo Center (admission $5, kids 12 and under are free).

OCTOBER 24: “WINTERLAND”—A FILM BY TETON GRAVITY RESEARCH

Winterland is a celebration of ski and snowboard culture. The technology and style of the sports might evolve, but the rush, excitement, and pure fun remain eternal, bonding past, present, and future riders. 7:30 p.m. at Spokane’s Bing Crosby Theater. OCTOBER 27: POWDERFEST AT SPOKANE REI

Celebrate winter recreation and "pray for snow" at the 2019 PowderFest. This is a free, family-friendly event at the Spokane REI store between 12-4 p.m. to help you get stoked for winter. Roast twinkies, watch ski movies, climb the REI pinnacle wall, build a snowman, and more. OCTOBER 19: 49 DEGREES NORTH SKI PATROL SWAP

Find great deals on ski and snowboard equipment at northeast Washington’s annual swap, held at NE Washington Fairgrounds in Colville, Wash. From 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Proceeds support 49’s volunteer ski patrol. NOVEMBER 2: WARREN MILLER'S "TIMELESS"

Much of the world has changed since Warren Miller started making ski films 70 years ago, but the passion of skiers and riders across the globe remains much the same. This year’s film “Timeless” embodies the enduring spirit of winter and gives respect to the past seven

NOVEMBER 2: MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK JOB FAIR

Fill out the online application to hopefully find your winter job working on the mountain with a free season pass and other perks. 8 a.m.-12 p.m. at the Main Lodge. NOVEMBER 2: WINTER SWAP

North Idaho’s biggest ski and snowboard gear swap at Kootenai County Fairgrounds in Coeur d’Alene. Register your gear to sell Friday or shop starting at 9 a.m. Saturday. NOVEMBER 7: UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT SALE & SWAP

This 45th annual sale put on by the Outdoor Program and UI Vandal Ski Team features all types of used winter and summer outdoor gear. Admission is free and a table to sell gear is $5. 6 p.m. at the UI Student Recreation Center’s MAC court in Moscow. Info: 208-885-6810. NOVEMBER 7 & 10: SKI & SNOWBOARD WAXING WORKSHOPS AT SPOKANE REI

Learn how to wax your skis or snowboard and get more glide this winter. Bring your own skis/ board and leave with a freshly waxed base. You

must sign up in advance ($35 for REI members, otherwise $55). NOVEMBER 13: CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING BASICS CLASS AT SPOKANE REI

Learn all about Nordic skiing, including the differences between backcountry, telemark, and touring ski styles, as well as proper gear (free). NOVEMBER 14: 6TH ANNUAL PRAY FOR SNOW PARTY AT PERRY STREET BREWING

Beer specials, prizes for the best retro ski attire, raffle drawings, giveaways and swag, and a high-energy crowd stoked to celebrate another winter together. A benefit for T.E.A.M. Grant in Spokane’s South Perry Neighborhood. NOVEMBER 15-16: SNOWLANDER EXPO & INLANDER WINTER PARTY

Winter sports and regional resort exhibitors, live music, Powder Keg brew festival, giveaways, and ski and snowboard gear sale. NOVEMBER 9: SARS (SCHWEITZER ALPINE RACING SCHOOL) SKI SWAP

Sandpoint’s local swap benefitting the SARS’s ski racing and freeride programs at Bonner County Fairgrounds. NOVEMBER 21-DECEMBER 1: WINTER KICKOFF FESTIVAL IN NELSON, B.C.

Multiple events, films, and travel specials in Nelson and nearby communities kick off the winter season Kootenay style. The Kickoff Carnival Nov. 29 from 4-9 p.m. in downtown Nelson includes food, music, art, performances, kids’ activities and more. Winterkickoff.com (OTO) //

LOVE PEOPLE, LOVE THE PLANET.

SKI SWAP. // MIDDLE: HOT COCOA STOP DURING THE WINTER KICKOFF IN NELSON, B.C. // RIGHT: PRAY FOR SNOW AT PERRY STREET BREWING

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OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

ON THE MOUNTAIN GEAR able, and safe days on the slopes and facilitating that next epic snow adventure. BACKCOUNTRY

NEW TUNING MACHINE AT THE SPOKANE ALPINE HAUS. // PHOTO: T. GHEZZI

WINTER SHOP TALK BY T. GHEZZI

THE SUN IS SETTING EARLIER, nights are getting cooler, and the morning air is feeling crisper. This is nature’s way of letting us know it’s time to start searching for winter gear and visiting the local shops. Late autumn brings to mind the smell of hot wax, the sharpness of new

edges, the smoothness of new bases, and the clarity and brightness of new goggles. Plus there’s the flex and pop of new boards, new graphics, new shred videos. Here is what a few of the local shops are showcasing this year in their pursuit of helping you have fun, enjoy-

Out There ad - winter kickoff 2019.pdf 1 09/20/2019 10:02:42 AM

With the popularity of self-powered explorations outside of the resort to find fresh powder and dawn patrols, Spokane’s Mountain Gear is the perfect shop for someone looking to get into the backcountry. Mark Beattie, the manager at Mountain Gear, and his team are extremely knowledgeable of all their cutting-edge backcountry gear. The new Scarpa Maestrale boot is highly recommended by Beattie because of its versatility of skiing at the resort one day and in the backcountry the next. Mountain Gear happens to be the only shop that sells telemark ski gear, and one of the select few to have Jones splitboards. If you’re nervous about the financial leap of getting new gear, take advantage of their rental or demo programs. They also offer free backcountry awareness classes. ALPINE SKI & SNOWBOARD GEAR

Pistole Boardshop is one of the area’s only true board shops. The shop is rider owned, and Josh Yandell is a guy you’ll see in the lift line on a powder day, wearing and riding what he sells. Pistole offers top of line Volcom GoreTex outerwear, Smith goggles, Union bindings, and boots by Vans. Pistole consistently has an impressive quiver of top of line boards by Lib-Tech, GNU, and Capita. For snowboarders looking to ride fast and loose, this shop is for you.

Spokane’s recently remodeled Shred Sports Outlet offers a vast amount of skis, boards, boots, and outerwear for all different ages and skill levels. Chad Ohman, the manager, is stoked to offer Armada skis this season, especially pro models by Tanner Hall, Phil Casabon, and Henrik Harlaut. With a fleet of new snowboards, the Lib Tech Travis Rice Orca is definitely a stand out. They are offering this pow slasher/resort ripper in a variety of sizes. The Spokane Alpine Haus is stocked up and ready for the 2020 season with boxes of new skis, snowboards, boots, and outerwear literally stacked to the ceiling. With the motto, “Internet can’t fit your boots,” the husband and wife team aim for the highest quality service, fit, comfort, and performance. Owners Rachel and Drew Harding are keeping the tradition of a shop on Spokane’s South Hill. The Alpine Haus is definitely a ski and snowboard destination for the entire family. They serve up an incredible season lease program, which is perfect for families with children and adults looking to get into winter sports. The Alpine Haus recently purchased new, top-of-the-line tuning machines for skis and snowboards. The combination of the new machines, with the knowledge and experience of their shop tech, Fred Nowland, enables them to produce exceptional, highly-quality waxes and tunes. // T. Ghezzi has written multiple ski and snowboard articles for OTO the past two winters. He's stoked to ride fresh powder and shred WildCannon style.

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WEATHER ON THE MOUNTAIN THE OLD FARMERS ALMANAC

WINTER PREDICTIONS BY BRAD NORTHRUP

NOW THAT the hot and sunny summer is but a recent memory, about the last thing on anyone’s mind is winter. I will admit that fall is a nice time of year, with the colors changing and the weather getting cooler; but for those who yearn for the white stuff, nothing is more frustrating than waiting for the return of winter. Yeah sure, we have football to watch, kids’ school activities to attend, and any number of other distractions to keep us occupied. But as each day gets shorter, the countdown to the upcoming ski and snowboard season creeps into our everyday thoughts. With that in mind, here is what the weather gurus have to say about what we can expect for the upcoming ski and snowboard season. NATIONAL OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION (NOAA)

At the time of this writing, the wicked smart folks in charge of predicting the weather for the government have yet to publish their official

winter weather forecast, but their mid-summer projections don’t look too bad. For the PNW, we can expect a 50/50 chance of El Niño this year, but they included a caveat that this ratio could drop as we move into the fall and early winter. Temperatures are expected to be higher than normal during this time, with average to less than average precipitation. That said, we can expect a slow start to the season, but all bets of this trend continuing are off the table as we move into December and January with the El Niño weather pattern possibly weakening towards the end of the calendar year. OFFICE OF THE WASHINGTON STATE CLIMATOLOGIST

The crew that forecasts our great state’s weather seems to have a little better news for us, though it does mimic NOAA’s forecast a little. They are reporting that weak El Niño conditions are still present in the Pacific Ocean, but should shift to more neutral conditions as we approach

late fall and early winter. Based on this, we can expect normal precipitation and temperatures at the start of the season, with typical patterns developing in January and February as the trend of an El Niño weather pattern continues to weaken. THE FARMER’S ALMANAC

And the news just keeps getting better. The Farmer’s Almanac is predicting chilly temperatures and normal precipitation for all of Washington State. Once you hit the Idaho border, though, things get real interesting, as they are forecasting that this is the western edge of what will be a massive zone of frigid and snowy weather. Any slight shift westward and we could be looking at a season to remember around the Inland NW. THE OLD FARMER’S ALMANAC

One look at the Old Farmer’s Almanac weather forecast map should put a smile on your

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Brad Northrup spent over a decade working in the ski industry. He has been a contributing writer for OTO since 2011.

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face. For the western part of the state, it says “Wet or Worse.” Once you head east of the Cascades, that icon is replaced with “A Parade of Snowstorms.” Who doesn’t love a parade of snowstorms? Additionally, this iconic resource says, “This snow-verload will include storms pummeling Washington State. For the normally rain-soaked Northwest, this could mean a repeat of last winter’s record-breaking extremes, including the Snowpocalypse that dumped 20.2 inches on Seattle in February.” Yeah, you read this right—the terms snow-verload and Snowpocalypse both used in the same paragraph. Anyone remember last February? Took my legs a month to recover from the epic conditions we experienced in the shortest month of the year, so I’m all in if history repeats itself. //

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A fundraiser for Mt. Spokane Ski Patrol, a non - profit 501(c)3 organization. OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

ON THE MOUNTAIN SKI BUM ADVICE 1. GETTING INTO SHAPE

GET IN SHAPE WITH PHYSICAL THERAPY ASSOCIATES PRE-SEASON SKI CLASS. PHOTO: SHALLAN KNOWLES

If the ski season were to start this next weekend, I’m pretty sure I would need oxygen just to get my gear up to the lodge. I wish some of the resorts had ski porters or something like that for folks like me. I would gladly pay the fee, plus a tip. The sad thing is it wasn’t like this just a few years ago. I went from running half marathons to crawling halfway up a flight of stairs in the span of a year. Seriously, if you hooked me up to one of those gizmos that makes you run with a mask on to measure your VO2, the results would probably say “Please Unplug Me.” Someone once said that this is how things go in your late 40s, and I scoffed at such a notion. Regardless, I refuse to roll into the season in woeful physical condition and rely on the old method of “skiing myself into shape,” as that method no longer works. I know because I have tried. Several times. Nope, you will find my plump posterior on the treadmill until the mountain opens.

WHY I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO SKI SEASON BY BRAD NORTHRUP

I SHOULD PROBABLY PREFACE with the fact that

I love summer and fall and a part of me is sad that it will be many months until I see either again. On the other hand, I did manage to add another pair of boards to the quiver in the offseason, and I just can’t wait to give them a go

this year. I swear sometimes I feel like a little kid the day before Christmas, only my Santa brings bags of powder and a snow groomer. Anyway, as we patiently await the return of winter, here are a few reasons why I am looking forward to the upcoming ski season.

2. DOG POOP

I occasionally enjoy doing yardwork, and I believe I have previously mentioned that I take some pride in my lawn. However, I absolutely despise picking up dog do-do. I have teenagers in my house, and I bet you’d be shocked to hear that they don’t like picking it up any more than I do. So outsourcing the stinky task to my underlings is out. To make matters worse, we have been taking care of a snow- white Bichon Frise for a family member over the past few months. Who

would have thought such a small, cute dog could crap that much? Had I known, I would have negotiated better. Oh well, once the freeze is on and the ground is blanketed with white magic, the duty to deal with the dookie will be mercifully over. 3. SMILING AT WINTER HATERS

Not everyone likes winter. I get it. But if you don’t like winter, why in the heck would you live here? Don’t get me wrong—I have nothing against folks that move to our area from places that don’t have snow, because without you, our region loses some flavor. Hopefully someone gave you the heads-up that it can get a little sporty when December arrives. No, I am wagging my finger at those of you who are from here and still complain about the colder months. As someone who lives in the sticks, I will concede that I grow weary of having to drive slower when the roads get slick. It’s bad enough that I have to dodge deer, turkeys, and the occasional turtle on my daily commute, but having to drive 10-15 miles per hour slower just grinds on me. Full disclosure: I actually said I was getting tired of winter late last February after plowing my driveway for the fourth time in a week. I later regretted saying it. As a side note, it continued to snow for another two weeks. You’re welcome. // Brad Northrup is a former ski racer, coach, and ski bum. Despite his grumbling, he really is looking forward to ski season.

Image: Nick Nault

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NEWS ON THE MOUNTAIN playing work theater will appreciate improved WiFi access in the lodges thanks to locally owned Ptera. And lastly, interior work on the latest new on-mountain development, the Mountain Sports School Learning Center, was completed over the Summer, further cementing Mt. Spokane’s reputation as a leader in investing in the future of alpine winter sports.

NEW LIFT AT LOOKOUT PASS. // RIGHT: HELICOPTER INSTALL OF NEW SCHWEITZER LIFTS. PHOTOS COURTESY OF RESORTS.

SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN RESORT

WHAT’S NEW AT YOUR FAVORITE LOCAL RESORT

The alpine skiing and snowboarding scene here in the Inland NW continues to evolve as more snow sliders discover our little slice of snowy Shangri-La each season. And our local resorts continue to respond with new lifts, runs, glades, hotels, and other improvements to keep us all moving up and down the mountains in style. LOOKOUT PASS SKI & RECREATION AREA

Work continued on Phase 1 of Lookout’s longterm expansion plan over the summer, but the installation of a new SkyTrac quad chairlift on the frontside, replacing the two-seater Chair 1, steals the improvement show this season. “Our priority objective this year was getting the new quad up and running, which will about double the uphill capacity,” says Matt Sawyer, Lookout’s director of marketing. Sawyer says expansion project work on the two new lifts and several runs planned for Eagle Peak (which have already been approved by

the Forest Service) will continue with possible completion in two years. But, Sawyer notes, when exactly the first lift-assisted tracks off Eagle Peak will commence depends on project logistics and cashflow. MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK

Summer brush cutting on areas of the 279 acres of new terrain on the backside, served by the new Northwood Chair (Chair 6), will mean better early-season riding on the 7 new runs that already prompted positive reviews from skiers and riders last season. A longawaited return of bus service from Spokane to the mountain will also resume this year. Leave the driving to someone else and kick back in a 55-passenger shred wagon. Mt. Spokane is also kicking off a cool twist on night tubing Saturday nights from 4-8 p.m. December 28 through January with KANtasy Tubing will feature tunes and a dazzling light display to enhance the traditional tubing experience. Those of us who spend part of powder days

Say goodbye to the Snowghost double chair and hello to the two new chairlifts replacing service to the North Bowl this season. A Lietner Poma detachable quad chair, Cedar Park Express, will provide more access for intermediate skiers and riders in the resort’s back bowl. Concurrently, a complementing triple chair from Skytrac, the Colburn Triple, will allow advanced and expert skiers to reach the summit of the mountain and access the steeper terrain in Lakeside Chutes more quickly. Frequent Schweitzer riders can expect shorter lift lines, as well as an additional seven new named runs. With increased demand for onmountain ski-in/ski-out lodging, Schweitzer is also moving forward with a new 30-unit boutique hotel in the village. The development will include a 50-seat restaurant and bar with an outdoor patio. The hotel is expected to open for reservations in the fall of 2020. 49 DEGREES NORTH MOUNTAIN RESORT

The big news at 49 is the purchase of the resort’s assets by an owner-affiliate of Silver Mountain Resort and the birth of a killer

combo ski pass option that means passholders can chase powder at both resorts. 49 will continue to operate independently, and, notes longtime general manager John Eminger, who will continue in his leadership role at the resort, “It has been an honor over the last two decades to be part of increasing the size of the ski area. We have grown from 905 acres to nearly 2,250 acres, created a Nordic trail system with 9 miles of trails, opened a new summit to lift assisted skiing, created over 35 new trails and glades in two basins, and added new lifts.” Management expects to increase passholder benefits, remodel the lodge, add a new conveyor carpet to the beginner area, upgrade lifts, and add new grooming equipment in the near future. SILVER MOUNTAIN

With 49 Degrees North now under new ownership by a Silver Mountain affiliate, passholders have the chance to purchase a combo pass or upgrade an existing pass and ski and ride at both resorts this season for a steal. No doubt this dual-resort partnership will mean more mountain improvements and perks for Silver fans in the years to come. In the meantime, Silver staff have been hacking away in the woods this past summer glading new areas like Paymaster, Bootlegger, and Moonshine. Silver is also expanding its beginner terrain park this year and opening a new sports shop in the village that will offer ski and board tuning and boot fitting. (OTO) //

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www.spokanefarmersmarket.org We accept: Visa/Mastercard, Food Stamps (EBT), WIC and Senior Farmers Market Nutrition Program Coupons

SCARED YET? PHOTO: NICK THOMAS

"YOU KNOW, those stairs aren't actually haunted," the secretary says, eyeing me warily after I gain permission to wander the grounds. "Oh, I know," I assure her, and myself. "I don't believe in ghosts." The afternoon is so humid I can feel its resistance, like I'm going the wrong way down a oneway street. The byzantine map the secretary gave me only makes me feel more lost. Although Spokane’s Greenwood Memorial Cemetery is scarcely 130 years young, it feels ancient. This is the way of woods. A sign in front of a thickly wooded area reads Non-endowment Section. This, I later learn, is where you go if you want to be untrammeled, to really rest in peace, to be the most forgotten. In 1980 every single brass ornament—even the brass elk that stood atop the mausoleum— were unceremoniously pried off and sold for scrap by the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks to help pay off its substantial debts. This abandonment of the order's fallen, and their once illustrious resting place, is widely considered the source of the haunting. I finally spot the stairs, hidden back in the woods a few yards. The staircase rises above me, much shorter than I'd imagined, and nowhere near the mythic thousand—yet somehow far more treacherous. I raise my camera to snap a picture just as blurred shapes drift into view at the top. Someone else is up there, the flash of a phone points down the stairs. I start to climb and try not to let the presence affect me. None of us are alone in this place anyway. 44

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

Many steps are broken, and all are off kilter. Some are gone entirely, swallowed by time, so that you have to stretch a bit to haul yourself up. "There's my workout for the day," I say to the three women who flitter about at the top. They smile hesitantly then drift away, not breaking their silence. A gray granite vault stands before me, the backside covered in decades of graffiti. The front is remarkably clean and dominated by rusting gates. Constructed by the Elks around the turn of the last century, the mausoleum now stands as a monument to the excess of the Gilded Age. It is filled not with the bones of brothers, but rather sadly, discarded lawn care equipment: coils of rotten hoses, splintered wheelbarrow handles, rusting t-posts. The brothers are scattered around in graves. Some inscriptions are lichen-encrusted and rendered illegible. The air feels more humid than I can ever recall, practically suffocating. Every time I look down at my notepad I feel like I am being watched. When I look up no one is there, save a sprinkler's incessant shushing. It is at this point I take my leave, scurrying down the steps, feeling no need to count them. Best stick with 1,000. As I climb in my car and start the engine in one fluid motion, I realize there's nothing like a short walk down a long and crowded cemetery to be reminded of one's mortality, or make one feel more alive. // Nick Thomas lives, gardens, and chicken wrangles in Spokane.

OutdoorCalendar RUNNING (October 5) Wild Moose Chase Trail Run. Where: Mount Spokane. Touted as one of the best trail runs in the Northwest, choose between 5K, 10K, and 25K distances and enjoy the fall colors at Mount Spokane State Park. Info: Nsplit.com.

(October 6) Fernie Half Marathon, 3-person Relay & 10K Run. Where: Fernie, B.C. An all-trail course that winds along the Elk River and follows a beautiful, challenging community trail system. Info: Tourismfernie.com/events

(October 12) The Defiance 50K, 30K, & 15k. Where: Tacoma, Wash. A scenic race that takes runners through the beautiful trails of Point Defiance, with over 700 acres of old growth forests and panoramic views of the Puget Sound. Info: Defiance50k. com

(October 20) Trails to Taps Relay.

Where: Bellingham, Wash. Teams of five to 10 runners comprise this relay run which highlights two of Bellingham’s finest assets: breweries and running trails. Each leg of the 30-mile course ends at a different local brewery. Teammates meet each other at the finish line after party to celebrate with a free beer, games, and local food trucks. Costumes are strongly encouraged. Info: trailstotaps.com

BIKING (October 6) Dirty Spokanza.

Where: Spokane Valley. A 100-mile mixed-surface ride with pavement, gravel, singletrack, doubletrack, and a few optional jumps. Expect plenty of high strangeness, antics, and a challenging course. Info: Dirtyspokanza.com

(October 13) Eastoberfest. Where: Camp Sekani Park, Spokane. Evergreen East’s annual Octoberfestthemed multi-stage enduro mountain bike race and fundraiser. Info: Evergreenmtb.org/eastoberfest

WINTERSPORTS (October 10) The Essentials of Backcountry Skiing. Where: Mountain Gear, Spokane. Learn about ski, boot, and skin options for the backcountry, along with info on basic safety tools. Info: Facebook.

cinematography. Two showings in Spokane plus other showings around the Inland NW: Moscow, Oct. 23; Coeur d’Alene, Oct. 25; Wallace, Oct. 26; and Sandpoint, Nov. 9.

(November 14) 6th Annual Pray for Snow Party. Where: Perry Street Brewing, Spokane. Beer specials, prizes for the best retro ski attire, raffle drawings, giveaways and swag, and a high-energy crowd stoked to celebrate another winter together. Info: Facebook

(November 15-16) Snowlander Expo & Inlander Winter Party. Where: Spokane Convention Center. Winter sports exhibitors, live music, brew festival, giveaways, and ski and snowboard gear sale. Info: Snowlanderexpo.com

(December 13-15) Out There Readers’ Trip to Big White. Where: Big White Ski

Resort, Kelowna, B.C. Out There is hosting its second annual early-season ski and snowboard trip to Big White Ski Resort with ski-in/ski-out rooms plus two lift tickets starting at $135 USD per night. Big White is Canada’s largest ski-in-skiout village and has the second largest ski resort lift system in Canada (119 runs and 15 lifts). Info: Bigwhite.com/out-thereoutdoors

OTHER (October 12) Oktoberfest.

Where: Fernie Alpine Resort, Fernie, B.C. Enjoy craft beers, food, entertainment, and crazy contests with Bavarian flair. Info: Tourismfernie.com/events

(October 12) Dishman Hills Hike.

Where: Dishman Hills, Spokane. Join a 3-mile hike with geologists Michael Hamilton and Don Chadbourn for some interesting stories about Dishman Hills, including geological highlights. The hikes costs $15 and requires pre-registration. Info: Iafi.org/events.

(October 19) Zombie Hike. Where: Riverside State Park. Enjoy an evening of outdoor scary fun with zombies jumping out of the dark woods of Riverside. The event includes a bonfire and food trucks from 7-9:30 p.m. at the Seven Mile Airstrip. Tickets are $10 for adults and kids ages 10 and up and $5 for kids

under 10. Info: Rei.com/events

(October 26) Compost Fair & Fall Leaf Festival. Where: Finch Arboretum, Spokane. Learn how to make compost at home out of garden debris, food scraps, and leaves. Also the Fall Leaf Festival, sponsored by the City of Spokane’s Parks & Recreation Department, includes information booths, kids’ activities, and playing in a big pile of leaves. Info: 509-625-6580

(November 1-3) Yoga Retreat at Lizard Creek Lodge. Where: Fernie, B.C. Recharge mind, body, and soul at the Yoga in the Mountains Retreat. Info: Tourismfernie.com/events

fun s t i a w a

(November 7) University of Idaho Outdoor Program Outdoor Equipment Sale and Ski Swap. Where: Student Recreation Center’s MAC court, Moscow, Idaho. Admission is free and a table spot to sell your own equipment is $5. Amazing deals on a wide range of outdoor equipment, starting at 6 p.m. Info: 208-885-6810.

(November 29-31) Winter Kickoff Carnival. Where: Nelson, B.C. Walk through an illuminated archway and into a winter wonderland of music, interactive art, performances, food, kids’ activities and more. Info: Winterkickoff.com

(February 22-23, 2020) 4th Annual Spokane Great Outdoors & Bike Expo. Where: Spokane Convention Center. Check out all types of bikes from local shops and reps; outdoor adventure travel destinations and clubs from around the region; enter to win thousands of dollars of outdoor gear prizes; and learn new outdoor skills, try gear, and enjoy free backcountry snacks at the REI Campground. Plenty of kids’ activities, including a climbing wall. Info: SpokaneOutdoorExpo.com.

Choose a fall adventure with our activity guide. •

Kayaking

•

Hiking adventures

•

Sports leagues

•

Art classes & workshops

•

Fitness & dance

•

Private outings & facility rentals for your parties and retreats

SpokaneRec.org Call 311 or 509.755.2489

(October 17) Idaho Panhandle Avalanche Center Movie Fundraiser. Where: Garland Theater, Spokane. The splitboarding film “Through Darkness” and “The Collective,” a new ski film from Faction Skis. Info: Idahopanhandleavalanche.org

(October 24) “Winterland” Film by Teton Gravity Research. Where: Bing Crosby Theater, Spokane. TGR’s latest celebration of ski and snowboard culture. Info: Tetongravity.com

(October 26-27) Mt Spokane Ski Patrol Ski Swap. Where: Spokane County Fairgrounds. The biggest swap around, with over 22,000 new and used ski and snowboard gear items for sale. Info: Skipatrolskiswap.com

We offer hundreds of camps and classes—plus four golf courses,

(November 2) Warren Miller's Timeless.

six aquatic centers, 17 splash

Where: Bing Crosby Theater, Spokane. This year’s WME film embodies the enduring spirit of winter and gives respect to the past seven decades of ski

pads and more than 80 parks.

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

Last Page ALTERNATIVES TO BEAR SPRAY: Try Tom Petty // By Steven Hitchcock

LATE OCTOBER IS A CHILLY, YET BEAUTIFUL TIME TO FISH ROCK CREEK, MONTANA. // STEVEN HITCHCOCK

I HAD NEVER BEEN TO ROCK CREEK without my

Missoula-based brother-in-law, and—aside from the Spokane River near my house—I had never fished alone. However, with any activity or place that regularly cycles through your daydream escapisms, at some point, you decide to just go. Listening to the rolling hum of the creek while being swallowed up by the Sapphire Mountains delivers at least a couple moments of Zen. Fishing there in the fall, as the yellowing aspens and cottonwoods quake around you in a prophetic October breeze, is the closest I’ve ever been to feeling metaphysically transcendent. I craved that feeling, and so I drove four hours east with no plan and nothing more than my rod, reel, and a sleeping bag.

Though I had fished the water a few times, as I took the exit just pass Clinton, I thought it best to pull into the Rock Creek Fisherman’s Mercantile for flies and a few last words of wisdom. It was a chilly and somewhat breezy morning, a day for sleeping in and watching the weather report. My car was the only one in the parking lot, and I was the only customer in the store. “Can I help you?” The old woman from behind the counter asked. I stopped short of the flies, and stared with widening eyes at the bear spray canisters. Holding up a bottle, I responded, “Um, I’m fishing alone. Will I need this stuff?” “Well, you might run into a bear, but I’d be more afraid of running into a moose.”

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019

“What should I do if I run into a moose?” “If you’re fishing alone, talk louder to yourself.” “Oh.” Armed with her advice, I decided the $40 bear spray would be best left for someone else. Rock Creek has more than 30 miles of skinny road cutting through the Sapphires, and although I had planned to drive deep into the valley to fish a section I had never been to, I found myself pulling into the big dirt parking lot off Valley of the Moon Road just 2 miles past the Mercantile. The lower section of Rock Creek, and especially Valley of the Moon, hosts quite a few fishermen over the season. It’s easy to get to, and the trout see so many more offerings they become pickier about what they’ll bite. Normally I wouldn’t stop there, but I doubted I’d see a moose or bear in a place that was normally busy. Cutting down the well-worn path, I reached a plot of secluded bank. Cast after cast scuttled across the water. A quick shot under the false bank across from me; a gentle lay down upstream while mending line above a deep pool. A rainbow, a brown, even a brookie would make this day a success. I walked the banks and waded into the middle of the creek, hoping that a different angle might lead me to success. Hours went by. Deciding it was a better tactic to change my fly than my location, and being too lazy to stumble across the smooth submerged rocks of the river to do so, I set to work snipping the streamer and

trading it for a purple haze patterned fly. It was in this vulnerable position that the sound of sticks cracking came from the thicket upstream. I surveyed the dry creek bed that led into the tangle but saw nothing. Turning my attention back to securing a knot around the new bug, the slow breaking of brush was again audible. “Hello?” I said. No answer. Knowing the water was too deep to get to the other side of the creek, but that I didn’t want to come face to face with a moose or bear, I did what I had been instructed to do. I began singing loudly to myself. “Now I’m free, free falllllliinnnn’… Now I’m freeee! Freee falllin’!” Out of the bushes popped an older gentleman, perplexed by a man up to his waist with hands full of gear, singing Tom Petty in a cracking and nervous voice, staring right back at him. I nodded at him. “Thought you were a moose.” He waved an obligatory hand toward me, but shook his head side to side as he ambled down the creek toward fish un-spooked by my karaoke. That day, I never did land a fish, but I did gain another tale in a storied place. Sometimes, that’s just as good—especially when you are unbothered by the black bears and moose. // Steven Hitchcock has been amassing stories for years in his time working for the SuperSonics, serving as a teacher, and going on a variety of outdoor boondoggles. He is the winner of this year’s Get Lit! and OTO Outdoor Writing Contest.

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Walker Mackey at camp during a Christmas Day ascent of 14,259â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Longs Peak, Colorado. Photo: Max Seigal

SPOKANE PREMIERE BING CROSBY THEATRE - THURSDAY, OCTOBER 24

DOORS 6:30 | FILM 7:30

TetonGravity.com/Spokane OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019 / OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM

Spokane’s own full service outdoor store for over 35 years.

Let our experienced staff outfit you with the gear you need for your adventure! Climbing • Backpacking • Mountaineering • Mountain Lifestyle • Hiking • Camping Trail Running • Backcountry & Cross Country Skiing • Snowshoeing • Kayaking • Canoeing 2002 N Division, Spokane • 509.325.9000 • mountaingear.com • Mon - Fri 10 - 8 pm, Sat 10 - 6 pm, Sun 11- 5 pm

UPCOMING EVENTS:

The Essentials for Backcountry Skiing Thursday October 10 • 7:00 to 9:00pm

Space is limited! Preregistration required at http://bit.ly/bcskimountaingear

A Special Evening Celebrating Glacier National Park

Learn about the work of the Glacier National Park Conservancy Wednesday October 30 • 7:00 to 9:00pm

FREE event at Retail. RSVP: emily@glacier.org 48

OUTTHEREOUTDOORS.COM / OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2019