Out There Monthly September 2011

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VOL.8 // NO.1 // SEPTEMBER 2011 // www.OuTThEREMONThLy.cOM

MONTHLY GREEN + SOLAR hOME & LANDScAPE TOuR September 18

ThE INLAND NORThwEST GuIDE TO OuTDOOR REcREATION

Backpack with A healthy and happy Dog - P. 9 / Punish Stuff: Bike Shoes That Look Normal - P.12 Last Page: welcome To The Dirtbag Diaries - P. 22 / Roadtrip: All-Season Fun At wenatchee State Park - P.11 Everyday cyclist: when Mom Gets Sponsored - P.13


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p.7 / Out There News SpokeFest Commemorates 9/11, Sustainable September, Spokane River Clean Up Grows

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p.10 / What’s Your Gear? Travis Semler: Fly Fishing By Amy Silbernagel McCaffree

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Out There Monthly / September 2011

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Out There Monthly

Mailing Address: PO Box 559 Spokane, WA 99210 www.outtheremonthly.com, 509 / 534 / 3347 Out There Monthly is published once a month by Snyderco DBA/Out There Monthly. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher. ©Copyright 2011 Snyderco DBA/Out There Monthly. The views expressed in this magazine reflect those of the writers and advertisers and not necessarily Snyderco DBA/Out There Monthly. Disclaimer: Many of the activities depicted in this magazine carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. Rock climbing, river rafting, snow sports, kayaking, cycling, canoeing and backcountry activities are inherently dangerous. The owners and contributors to Out There Monthly do not recommend that anyone participate in these activities unless they are experts or seek qualified professional instruction and/or guidance, and are knowledgeable about the risks, and are personally willing to assume all responsibility associated with those risks.

Printed on 50% recycled paper with soy based inks in the Inland Northwest PROUD MEMBER OF

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p.16 / September INLAND  NW OUTDOOR CAlendar & 6 Month Training Calendar

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p.18 / Name That Climb How Routes GotTheir Names By Jon Jonckers

p.21 / Photo of the month And Roadtrip DJ By Hank Greer & Dave Braun

p.22 / Last Page Welcome To The Dirtbag Diaries By Jon Jonckers

On the cover: Sarah Moeser scales the route Chronic Rookie near Spokane. // Photo Jon Jonckers.

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Out There Monthly / September 2011


september- 2011

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From the Editor: Where the sidewalk ends “The police told us he would be held accountable. More and more, this becomes unlikely. Meetings with the police and prosecuting attorneys only make it more evident that nothing will happen to this boy. We actually were told that in most cases, a jury would not hold the boy accountable. He didn’t mean to hurt her. Why ruin his life?” Sound familiar? Change the particulars and this could describe just about every car-oncyclist collision where a driver claims not to have seen the cyclist they end up injuring or killing. But the quote above has nothing to do with a car or a driver. It comes from a February, 1996

op/ed piece in the Spokesman Review by a friend of Janice Everhart, a 49-year-old Spokesman Review employee who had been struck by a teenage cyclist in front of the Great Western Building ten months prior. As a result of the collision Everhart’s skull was cracked, she was in a coma for three weeks, and she permanently lost her sense of taste, her sense of smell, and all hearing in her left ear. A year later she was still experiencing dizziness, could not drive a car, and was unable to resume her job. There are so many cyclists riding the sidewalk downtown these days it’s a wonder that

something like this hasn’t happened again. I see kids on fixed gears weaving between pedestrians and I wonder if they have heard about Everhart. They probably don’t know that City ordinance prohibits bike riding on downtown sidewalks in “congested districts” and “retail zones,” which is roughly south of the River and north of 2nd avenue between Madison and Washington. But it’s really not a great idea anywhere in downtown. Most of us have done it, myself included. Downtown Spokane’s combination of too many one-way streets, the railroad viaduct, and the River create intense barriers to cyclists making it hard to stay off certain stretches of sidewalk that

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can cut blocks off a trip. But if you think you are safer on the sidewalk downtown instead of being in the street, please think again. Not only could you collide with a pedestrian, but riding a bike through a crosswalk is extremely dangerous for cyclists because you enter the road faster than cars making turns can react to you. The problem is most cyclists don’t know that sidewalk riding is dangerous and illegal. Maybe it’s time for a few signs as a friendly reminder. // -------------------------------------------------------JON SNYDER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF editor@outtheremonthly.com

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Riding Spokefest? Join City Council

candidates Richard Rush and Joy Jones on 9/11/11 for lunch on the route! Call 995-2051 or email party@voterichardrush.com. First 100 RSVP’s in attendance get a bicycle lapel pin. Suggested donation: $30.

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Out There Monthly / September 2011

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Out There News SpokeFest will commemorate September 11th attacks

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This year’s SpokeFest falls on the 10th anniversary of the September 11th attacks. Prior to the ride, which has three routes of varied distances and a kids’ loop, Mayor Mary Verner will make an address to honor the day. Just like Bloomsday and Hoopfest, the SpokeFest community bicycle ride draws participants at every skill level. “There are the serious bikers, and then there are people who say ‘gee, I want to do something I haven’t done before,’” says Bill Bender, SpokeFest Association president. Even the longer 47-mile route can be an aspiration for newcomers. “There was a seven-yearold girl who did this last year—who rode the 47 miles [with] her family and her nine-yearold brother,” says Bender. She and her family were the last riders over the finish line, but they achieved their goal. SpokeFest also offers endurance cyclists a chance to try something different, says Bender. Rather than ride the course on a “serious bike,” many take their cruiser or another “fun” bicycle out for a spin. “I don’t think we’ve had anyone ride the whole thing on a unicycle, but I imagine that will come,” he says.

To foster SpokeFest’s emphasis on fun, Bender encourages dressing up or decorating bikes for the ride. His vision for SpokeFest? “To have it be another one of the standards that people look forward to. For it to take its place alongside Bloomsday and Hoopfest—for people to do it year after year [with] their families.” This year, he expects over 2,000 participants and has planned an expanded “Bike Safety Rodeo” in Riverfront Park for children, including a raffle for two kid’s bike giveaways. The East Side Kiwanis Club provides free helmets for kids with the help of a SpokeFest grant. Parents can pick them up at the Kiwanis Club location during operating hours or on the morning of SpokeFest. Volunteers are still needed for set-up, cleanup on the day of the event, and packet-stuffing a few days prior. //

SpokeFest is Sept. 11th, starting at 9:00 am at Riverfront Park. Early registration discount ends Sept. 2nd. For more information, visit spokefest.org.

Peak 7 Bocce ball fundraiser Peak 7 will be holding their third annual Adventures bocce ball tournament fundraiser. The tournament will include a meal and raffle this year. Peak 7’s program serves troubled youth in the Spokane and Seattle communities. The proceeds from bocce ball will help Peak 7 keep up their work in Washington. Through extreme adventure, Peak 7 works to bring hope and valuable life-skills to the at-risk and homeless youth of Eastern Washington. The tournament will take place at the Bozarth Mansion approximately 20 minutes North of downtown Spokane.

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Spokane. The entry fee is $75/person, or $300/team, and the cost will be partially tax
deductible. Teams of four (including one team captain) will compete in a

pool play tournament for the coveted title of Bocce Master. Team uniforms and team names are. The event is Sunday, September 18th. Late registration begins at 12:30 and games start at 1pm. Event will wrap up at 8:00. What is bocce ball? For centuries, old Italian men have enjoyed a timeless game of great skill called bocce. But it’s not just a game for old men anymore. Peak 7 has retooled the game, left in the skill and created a great fundraising event to support a good cause. Bocce is a simple game that is easy to learn, but it does require a little skill. The rules of play will be well communicated at the tournament. For more information go to: www.peak7.org and click on “Spokane.”

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Out There News A Month of Sustainability

Sustainable September Includes Main St. Fair September 10

One month, over fifty green living events: If Sustainable September sounds overwhelming, that’s because it is. With a little strategy, though, environmental junkies can fashion a Sustainable September experience catered to their particular interests. A few main events tie together this monthlong celebration of all things environmental: a September 1st kick-off luncheon, the Main Street Fair, and a dinner called Progressive Bites and Buildings. “Progressive Bites and Buildings is a tour through three downtown buildings that have been renovated to be energy efficient,” says Sustainable September organizer Shallan Dawson. Diners will visit City Hall, the Bank of America Building and the Saranac, and then chow down while they learn about the retrofits. “We’ll have local chefs, local farms and local wineries highlighting their foods,” says Dawson. New to Sustainable September this year is an emphasis on “personal challenges”—activities for families to take home to incorporate sustainability into their daily lifestyles. First, participants pick a track: Local Food, Eco Building, Eco Generation (for young sustainability activists) or Active Stewardship.

Then comes the homework: Those who chose the Active Stewardship track will examine their water usage in four different ways over the course of the month. “The first week is to look at your bill and understand how much water you use,” says Dawson. “The next couple weeks is learning how to reduce the water you use that’s wasteful.” The Main Street Fair on September 10th will revive old favorites—live music, art, vendors and a fashion show—and add a few new features, says event organizer Taylor Weech. One new event at the fair is a “participatory sculpture building session,” says Weech. “We’re building a frame, and we’ll have garbage and other discarded materials to build it. If people want to bring something interesting to put on it, they can.” Anyone may add their own organization’s sustainability-related events to the Sustainable September calendar, which is found on the Down to Earth Northwest website, says Dawson. The wider the variety of events listed, the more diverse a crowd Sustainable September can serve. // For more information, visit sustainableseptemberspokane.org. For the Sustainable September calendar of events, visit downtoearthnw.com

Spokane River Clean Up Grows This Year’s Treasure Hunt For Trash Is October 1

ABOVE: Having fun at river clean up. // photo courtesy of friends of the falls. RIGHT: locally grown strawberries. // Photo courtesy c. M. E.

The Spokane River Clean-Up will expand to three locations in Spokane Valley this year—Sullivan Park, Barker Road and Harvard Road—and will take place on October 1st, from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm. Originally based only at High Bridge Park in West Spokane, last year’s event expanded to the University District east of downtown. “We wanted to expand into the Valley last year, but we were looking for funding for it and it wasn’t really coming together,” says Steve Faust, executive director of Friends of the Falls. Instead, a separate clean-up called Upriver Scrub tackled trash along the Valley’s riverbanks. This year, Upriver Scrub will join with the Spokane River Clean-Up and occur on the same day. Faust says he’d like see the clean-up continue to grow. “The vision for this thing is that people turn out to help clean up the river from where it enters Spokane County to where it leaves Spokane County. The clean-up is a great opportunity to get people [to] connect with the river—and to connect with the part of the river they live closest to.” On the day of the event, volunteers each receive a cinch backpack stuffed with trash bags, gloves,

a map and promotional goodies. They set out in teams to tackle one area of the shoreline, and then return to the site to sort what they’ve collected into recycling and trash. Two of the six tons of garbage collected last year was recycled, says Faust. “What amazes me is that, year after year, there’s six tons of trash to pick up,” he says. And they’re preparing for more this time around, because the river has been high and will leave more garbage as it recedes. Those who stick around afterward will see finalists for the “Most Interesting Trash” award, which was awarded last year to a human-sized plush bear found on the banks of the river. “We had a Studebaker car door, we’ve had [records] from the fifties that we found,” says Faust. “My favorite was a little Buddha statue that is in my living room now.” //

To register for Spokane River Clean-up, visit spokaneriver.net.

Sunday September 18th is Free Tune-Up Day @ The P2P DIY Community Shop! Spokane’s Community Bike Shop 1802 E. Sprague www.pedals2people.org 8

Out There Monthly / September 2011

Noon-Four Kids First All are Welcome Vegan Food


Health andFitness Backpacking with the dogS

How To Keep Canines Healthy and Happy In The Woods / By Dr. Bob Lutz

dog in the woods. // PHOTo Amy S. Mccaffree.

Last month, we took our dogs on their first overnight backpack. While they’re used to running trails, this was a new adventure for them, and unsurprisingly they loved being out there with all the interesting sights and smells. We were jazzed they did so well, as we weren’t sure how they would handle the slow and controlled pace instead of their typical sprint-return-sprintreturn routine. So this got us thinking about next trips, and I thought it’d be interesting to share a bit of what we’ve learned, as it’s worth doing your homework ahead of time. First, look into whether or not dogs are even allowed where you’re going. In general, they’re allowed on National Forest trails, not on National

Yes, dogs can get Giardia, so provide her with the same water you’re drinking. Park trails (but okay wherever cars are permitted), and never in Wilderness areas (www.petfriendlytravel.com/national_parks). In Washington, they’re allowed on trails “but must be under physical control at all times on a leash no more than eight feet long.” (www.petfriendlytravel.com/ state_parks) Does your destination have any sitespecific guidelines and/or restrictions? Next, don’t take your dog on a forced march without having him get some training under his collar. Some breeds will just go and go until they drop without warning (never a good thing). Dogs are like kids in many ways—they’re active in bursts, but on the move for hours isn’t necessarily their forte. An all-day hike, while slow of pace, is long on time, and the mental and physical strain can be intense. So work up to your/his planned foray into the backcountry. This is especially important if you’re going to have him carry his own weight by packing his own gear and chow. What about food and water? Yes, both are good

ideas, and you won’t be surprised to learn that like you, your dog is going to need more calories and fluids than normal, maybe up to 100 percent, depending on the duration and intensity of your hike. There are some high-energy kibble formulas worth looking into ahead of time, as the runs aren’t much fun for you or for her. These will allow you to pack more energy in less food. Yes, dogs can get Giardia, so provide her with the same water you’re drinking. If you’re thirsty, she is too, and dogs will often drink smaller volumes more frequently if given the opportunity. And what about other gear? Foldable water/ food bowls are lightweight essentials. We carry an extra water bottle Niki and Harley have learned to drink out of. If your dog’s up to backpacking, she’s probably up to carrying a pack with her own food and other essentials, and if she’s in shape, could carry up to a third of her weight if needed. Like your own backpack, make sure it fits her snuggly but comfortably, and start light with the packing— food (and water), bowls, long lead for camp, towel and brush, poop bags (yes, you should pack it out) and a first-aid kit. In the medical area, make sure your canine is current with all necessary immunizations and is in good overall shape. With respect to supplies, consider carrying, at a minimum, a bandage, antiseptic (dilute your iodine to just turn the water a little brown) and antibiotic ointment, tweezers (for ticks and wound debris), and—my favorite— crazy glue for paw lacerations (of course, all of this should be in your own personal kit as well, and sharing is good). Finally, the most contentious issue: to leash or not to leash? If you do a quick search, you’ll find a good number of discussions around the pros and cons of keeping your dog on a lead. Yes, dogs love to run amok, but while it may be fun for them, it can also lead to a host of problems. Even the best-behaved dogs can go native and end up heading off-trail into who knows what. You’re then left with either calling for them until you’re hoarse or doing likewise, neither of which are good options. There’s nothing worse than finding yourself scrambling down scree after a wounded hound that saw a chipmunk that looked like a lot of fun to play with, not to mention the chippy that’s got better things to worry about than a possessed predator it’s not familiar with. So do the right thing – leash up. So remember that heading into the backcountry with your dog isn’t much different than going out yourself—training, the right gear and preparation are the keys to a fun and safe trip. Backpacking can be a great way of extending the bond you have with your best canine-training buddy, and lead to lots of great adventures out there for both of you. //

More info: www.backpacker.com/june_09_the_manual_ take_your_dog_hiking/skills/13140 www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/hiking+dogs. html toolkit.bootsnall.com/travel-with-pets-guide/ backpacking-doggy-style-basics-for-hiking-withdogs.html

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What’s Your Gear: Travis Semler (fly fishing)

semler at work.

The book (and movie) A River Runs Through It has inspired many fly fishing fans, especially fathers and sons—like Travis Semler from Spokane, who started fly fishing at the age of ten with his dad. “I like to be in the outdoors and to enjoy the scenery on the river,” says Travis. “It’s fun to catch the fish—to use strategies, to see them and then try to select the right fly. It’s a relaxing hobby. If I had more time, I’d probably get more into it.”

As a married father with two young children and a full-time job as a project manager for a general contractor, Travis’s fishing days are limited. “At this point, I don’t have time to fish because my family needs me on the weekends,” he says. The Upper St. Joe River is one of his favorite places to fish. Last July, he enjoyed a guided trip on the St. Joe River between Calder and Marble Creek. He considers it his most memorable fly fishing adventure to date. (The guide was from the Orvis shop in Coeur d’Alene.) With catch and release, it’s not just about netting a fish. “There have been holes where I’ve had enormous fish on the line and my adrenaline was pumping and I lost the fish,” he says. “Oddly enough, that’s a good memory.” Although fly fishing may seem like it’s simply about standing in a river waving a stick, it’s not. Technique is what matters most. And it’s about enjoying the quiet day on the river—observing the fly hatches and what the fish are feeding on. And then being strategic. Choosing the right fly. Finding the riffles, banks or pools where the trout are hanging out. Reading the current to cast an inviting presentation. But when it comes to gear, Travis likes to keep it simple. “You could spend thousands of dollars on gear, but I try to have as little gear as possible because it weighs me down and dangles all over the place. I just try to have an assortment of flies and a rod and a reel. I like to travel light,” he says.

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His advice? “If you’re just starting out, budget about $150 for a rod/reel combo from a store like Cabela’s. You don’t need a vest; it’s just helpful.

“You could spend thousands of dollars on gear, but I try to have as little gear as possible because it weighs me down and dangles all over the place. “ You probably need about $250 to get started. You could visit a fly fishing shop and they could help get you set up. Cabela’s has a great selection of inexpensive gear. Some shops like the Orvis shop are fun, but really, really expensive.” In addition to fly fishing, Travis enjoys the outdoors by snow skiing, trailer camping with his wife and kids (ages 2½ years and 6 months), and spending time on Hayden Lake at his inlaw’s cabin. Here is what Travis uses for his days on the river. -----------------------------------------------------FLY ROD: 9 foot long, 5 weight rod by Temple Fork Outfitters -----------------------------------------------------FLY LINE: Orvis 5 weight -----------------------------------------------------REEL: Orvis BattenKill. “I invest in an expensive

reel because it’s lighter and smoother,” he says. -----------------------------------------------------TIPPET: “These days, you can buy a leader that has a tippet on it, and you use the leader until you run out of tippet. Then you just throw the leader away,” says Travis. “In the past, you had to make your own leader, but that’s a lost art now.” -----------------------------------------------------FLIES: Travis prefers dry flies. “I like to keep my assortment of flies on the skinny side. I just like a few small, medium and large sizes,” he says. “If I’m going to the St. Joe, I stock up on small midges, some hoppers and some small nymphs. I just use that pattern over and over.” -----------------------------------------------------CLOTHING: “On the St. Joe River, all you need is a vest to carry your flies and wading boots. The vest should have a hook on the back for your net,” he says. -----------------------------------------------------WADERS: Travis doesn’t usually wear waders. “I just wear a swimming suit because I always fish in warm weather,” he says. “I have a pair of neoprene waders that I’ve owned for 25 years, and I don’t need a new pair yet. They are well-insulated and keep me warm.” -----------------------------------------------------WADING BOOTS: An inexpensive Cabela’s brand wading boots with felt soles. -----------------------------------------------------OTHER ESSENTIAL GEAR: Net, pair of needle nose pliers, small little cases for your flies, small clippers for cutting line, and a fishing license. //

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The cycle starts with you. Partial funding provided by a grant from the Washington State Department of Ecology.

Partial funding provided by a grant from the Washington State Department of Ecology. 10

Out There Monthly / September 2011

recycling hotline: 625.6800 www.solidwaste.org


Road Trips

All-Season Fun Near the Wenatchee River Car Camping At Wenatchee State Park / By Sarah Hauge

Lake Wenatchee State Park, with its gorgeous tall pines, over two miles of waterfront on Lake Wenatchee and the Wenatchee River, and all-season outdoor activities, is a perfect spot for car camping and daylong excursions alike. The park pairs modern amenities (bathrooms, electricity, proximity to towns—Leavenworth is less than a half hour’s drive) with a real sense of getting away, thanks to the well-forested grounds. The 489-acre park is about 220 miles east of Spokane, 7.5 miles off of Highway 2, making it a convenient spot for a weekend getaway. From May 1-October 31 (weather condi-

Beautiful vista at wenatchee state park. // Photo courtesy of Washington State Parks.

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At the corner of N. Division & Hawthorne

On your way to the park, be sure to set aside time for a visit to the unbeatable Anjou Bakery (anjoubakery.com) just off Highway 2 in Cashmere (3898 Old Monitor Highway). tions permitting), 155 tent spaces and 42 utility sites are available in the park’s two areas, north park and south park; these areas are defined by the Wenatchee River, which runs between them. The south park offers space for camping, swimming, and horseback riding; the north park is less developed and more forested (it’s worth noting, though, that the south park is definitely woodsy—even in the middle of summer, the campsites provide generous shade and can be quite cool). Those wary of roughing it will be happy to find that bathrooms are available within a short walk—bring quarters if you want to shower. The park is a natural wildlife area, and bears are a possibility. Be sure to lock those coolers away in your vehicle at night. Because of tree rot, one campsite loop in the south park has been closed temporarily; check online for re-opening information. Peak season reservations (May 1-September 15) should be made in advance through the park’s website (www.parks.wa.gov; choose Lake Wenatchee from the drop-down “Find a Park” menu). The regular campgrounds are closed Oct. 31-May 1, but camping is available during the off season at the south park’s day use area on a first-come, first-served basis. Picnic tables and bathrooms are available in the day use area. During the spring and summer months, visitors should take advantage of the several miles of formal and informal trails—including fire roads and wooded dirt roads—that run through the forest and along the river and lakeshore. Hikers can take the 1.2-mile “Lakeshore Trail” loop in the north park, which drops down to the river and has a

couple of short but steep hills, or the familyfriendly Wenatchee River Interpretive Trail in the south park (.6 miles each way), which follows the Wenatchee River downstream to a junction with Nason Creek. Signage along the south park trail offers information about the river and the wetland habitat. Horse rentals and guided rides are available during peak season in the south park. The amphitheater, also located in the south park, offers a variety of events, from yodeling sessions to junior ranger programs; check the board listings in the park for information. Those who dare are always welcome to take a dip in the beautiful but glacier-fed waters of Lake Wenatchee. In the winter, the park offers snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and sledding, making it an ideal day trip if you want to spend a weekend in nearby Leavenworth. There are two distinct snowshoe trail systems, which run along the river and lakeshore and through the forest. Ask park rangers for information about the route to Nason Ridge (not listed on the park’s map of winter trails), a 2.2-mile trail that climbs 1,200 feet to the ridge, with picturesque views along the way. Winter visitors of all skill levels should check out the not-to-bemissed 20-25 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, which wind through the forest and along the lakeshore and river. If making a daylong visit, the cost is $10 for a Daily Discover Pass; the cost of an annual Discover Pass, which grants access to all of Washington’s state parks, is $30 per year. Those who plan to camp should check online for exact rates (www.parks.wa.gov). On your way to the park, be sure to set aside time for a visit to the unbeatable Anjou Bakery (anjoubakery.com) just off Highway 2 in Cashmere (3898 Old Monitor Highway). Anjou offers amazing artisan breads and many other delicious baked goods, as well as lunch options and espresso to fuel your adventure. On your way home, pay a visit to Liberty Orchards for a tour of the factory where they produce their famous “Aplet and Cotlet” candies (www.libertyorchards.com; 117 Mission Ave., Cashmere). Tours are offered 7 days a week April-December, and Monday-Friday the rest of the year. // WHEN YOU GO Lake Wenatchee State Park is located about 3 hours and 45 minutes from Spokane via 1-90 and Highway 2 (check with website for maps and detailed directions). To make reservations, go to www.parks.wa.gov and select Lake Wenatchee from the drop-down “Find a Park” menu. For help with selecting a campsite or for other park information, call Washington State Parks’ Information Center at (360) 9028844. To contact the park directly, call (509) 763-3101.

september- 2011

/ Out There Monthly

11


Back to Sch

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Punish Stuff Normal-looking Clip-In Bike Shoes No Longer a Dream / By John Speare If you are new to cycling and you don’t “clip in” to your pedals, then stay on platform pedals and move on to the next article. Nothing to see here. If, like me, you drank the clip-in kool-aid and you feel that you must clip in whenever you ride, then you may find this review interesting. But first, Google, “the shoe ruse” and read it. If you still must clip in after reading that, then proceed. This review is for cyclists who want to wear normal looking shoes when they clip in. SPD is a good system for clip-in shoes that are truly walkable: they can pass the “don’t dent wood floor” test when the cleat is pushed most of the way back.

Come in for our fall seasonal

Copperfest and see us at the:

Washington Beer Comission Oktoberfest Sept. 23rd & 24th

in a different way. A lace keeper holds the laces to the shoe so they don’t go flying into your chain. Nearly all solutions involve a flexy strap that lives over the middle of the tongue on the shoe. You cram the laces under the strap and that’s that. But either the strap is so tight and fussy that you’re trained not to use it (Keen Austin, Chrome), or it’s so loose that the laces fall out after a few miles (DZR, Shimano MT-60). The X-Alp Seek has a

* Elk Vinta

ge Cruise r Ride* October 2 , 3PM

Time B omb 711 N. M on

roe, Spok ane -6949

(509) 326

Northern Lights Brewing Co and Pub 1003 E. Trent Ave. Spokane, WA (509) 242-2739

Vintage bik Records-C es-Toys-Tiki-Boo ks D Kulture-L s-Furniture-Kusto owbrow-M m buy, sell, ore! trade

12PM-6P

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Green + Solar Home & Landscape Tour September 18, 11 am - 4 pm Spokane homes & Gonzaga co-housing. Plus workshops throughout the day on Solar Energy, Chicken Keeping, & Home Energy Efficiency! Tickets are only $10 Available on-line:

brownpapertickets.com/event/193046 or at Sun People Dry Goods 32 W. 2nd Ave. For more information: spokanegreenhomestour@gmail.com ecobuilding.org/events

12

Out There Monthly / September 2011

DZR GMT-8 SNEAKER

M Tues-S

PERl Izumi X-Alp Seek

DZR GMT-8 SPD sneaker $85; Made in China Pros: look super normal, will make all of your dreams come true. Cons: don’t breathe well, which may lead to premature funkiness; laces fly all over the place. Perl Izumi X-Alp Seek $100; Made in China Pros: super comfy, breathe well, best lace “keeper” out there. Cons: sport-o looking. Perl Izumi X-Alp Seek The Perl Izumi X-Alp is a line of shoes that come in a bunch of different options and colors. The “Seek” is the cheap, lace-up, daily driver shoe in the X-Alp line. I’ve grown to really like this shoe for mountain bike rides and as a daily tennis shoe. In styling and feel, it’s more “running shoe” than sneaker, which is not really that “normal” looking for me. My friend Rachel has a pair and finds them to be normal on her scale, so if you feel that running shoes is a normal look, then these shoes might be worth a try. I’ve tried about a dozen SPD shoes. I like laces (instead of buckles and straps), so it’s interesting to come across a shoe that solves the lace “keeper”

strap up higher on the tongue, and a pouch to stuff the lace loops into. It works better than any other keeper solution I’ve tried. The X-Alp comes in men’s and women’s sizes and is generic enough in styling to be sort of “genderless.” DZR GMT-8 sneaker The DZR sneakers are just cool. I’m a Vans guy. I also like Converse low-tops. If that’s your thing, then just go for the DZRs. The GMT-8 Sneaker is the most low-key of the SPD sneaker offerings from DZR in my opinion. I’ve worn my DZRs for nearly two months straight. They’re comfy. They’re true-to-size. They totally and completely do not look like nerdy bike shoes. And they’re barely bike shoes. Like most SPD “normal” shoes (including the X-Alps), you shouldn’t expect super stiff soles. The soles are certainly stiffer than Chuck Taylors, but they’re not what you’ll be used to if you wear racing shoes. Since the DZRs are canvas, they like to absorb and hold water. And they don’t breathe well. And since I’ve worn them nearly every day for two months, they are getting a tad funky. I wear “liner” wool socks with them in the summer, but they’re still pretty steamy. The super, overly-long laces are not held down well by the limp “keeper” either. So they’re not perfect, but they are wearing exceptionally well. I’m hard on shoes and this pair has yet to blow out or start unstitching after many miles of riding and walking. //


Everyday Cyclist

http://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com

When Mom Gets Sponsored

Interview With a Female Cyclocross Wiz / By John Speare Jenni Gaertner lives in Coeur d’Alene with her husband Mike, and two sons. By trade, she’s a pediatric physical therapist. She’s also a serious competitor in road, mountain, and cyclocross racing. She won the Starcrossed and Rad cyclocross races. She came in 4th in the Cyclocross

Nationals in 2009. And two months ago, she was awarded a sponsorship from Raleigh. OTM: You are a mother, a wife, a physical therapist. How do you stay so competitive? I guess I stay competitive by trying to be the most efficient with my time as possible. I follow a plan set forth by my coach, which ensures that the time that I spend on (or off) the bike isn’t wasted. I have a pretty sweet working schedule, and work with honestly some of the best people in the business, so they are pretty accommodating to my travel schedule when I’m required to be gone – but I’ve tried to arrange my schedule to impact my work and patients as little as possible. Workouts happen in the late afternoon. Weekends are where I tend to “load” my training volume, since I don’t work on Saturdays or Sundays. My house looks like a tornado most of the time, because I’m not home very often, and if I am, I’d rather spend time with the kids than scrubbing the floors or washing the windows. Honestly, I think what’s worked for me is to have a husband that is very supportive, along with the fact that I tend to be pretty organized with my time. OTM: Sometimes you race the local bike races in the men’s categories. Why? I’ve “raced up” with the men because our women’s field is so tiny. I can finish respectably, but I’m maybe top 10-15ish, not top 3 at all! I always race with the A pack men in the Tuesday Night Twilight Series road races, and can mix it up with them frequently. I’ve had some top-10 finishes, but nothing to write home about. Mostly I love to race with the men because that most closely mimics racing crits or cross with the pro women. I hold on for dear life and repeat the mantra, “I’m building fitness…” OTM: What does the Raleigh sponsorship mean? What is the sponsorship and what are the obligations? The Raleigh sponsorship is two complete bikes, a travel stipend, free entry to the Cross After Dark series races, a racing kit, and technical support. I’ve never been sponsored at this level – it’s an

amazing opportunity, for sure. Truthfully, I’m having a hard time believing it myself. I had decided that this year I would make cross my “focus season,” since I enjoy it so much, but also because I became so burned out on the road racing scene. So, the timing of this seems so perfect! But honestly, I’m a bit overwhelmed by it. I don’t in any way consider myself a “pro” – I just race with the pros, and try to hold my own! I feel honored, lucky, excited, nervous, happy – all rolled into one. I just really want to do the Raleigh guys proud, so if anything, it makes me more “serious” about my training, makes me think about the upcoming season 24/7. I’ve wanted to do some of these bigger races— now I get the chance! I just hope Lady Luck sticks with me! OTM: What advice would you give to women cyclists who may be on the fence with trying cross? It seems like women in general tend to be intimidated by the competitive nature of massstart cycling events. Throw in some gravel, mud, obstacles and/or run-ups, nasty weather conditions… it can look grueling! I’m not going to lie –

“Mostly I love to race with the men because that most closely mimics racing crits with the pro women.” it’s not called “the hour of pain” for nothing. But, the hard part about cross racing is also the silver lining: it’s a short race. Novice racers are usually on course for around 30 minutes. I try to talk women into at least coming out to watch a race. Come see what it’s about. Then, just try one! No harm in trying, right? It’s a tough race, but in a way, you can race your own pace—you’re out on a lap course (there’s no getting lost) with a bunch of other people (who are going through the same thing you are) and usually a lot of spectators (who are always very supportive). Women say, “I don’t know how to ride my bike like that” or “I’ll be so slow it will be embarrassing” or “I don’t want to get in anyone’s way.” Nonsense… come join us for practice sessions [Vertical Earth bike shop] or join the Team REP women’s racing team for a great group of ladies who love to mentor. Everyone starts out slow— there are generally so many people on course at the same time, no one is keeping track of how fast you’re going. And you’re not in anyone’s way— everyone at some time or another has been a novice, and 99% of the racers out there are exceptionally courteous to fellow racers. OTM: anything else? I really need to be sure to give my current sponsors as much visibility as possible, since they are the ones who got me here: Vertical Earth, Rep Gym, and Doma are huge supporters of women’s cycling, as well as Kootenai Health. John Speare grew up and lives in Spokane. He rides his bike everywhere. Check out his blog at http://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com.

september- 2011

/ Out There Monthly

13


GoGreen: Sustainable Living

Aviation Bio-Fuels Get A PUSH

Camelina Could Be Better Than Corn / By Juliet Sinisterra

Camelina Growers, North of Spokane. // Photo Courtesy of Community-Minded Enterprises.

What would our regional economy look like with a faltering airline industry? How dependent are we on aerospace? According to a recent report by Sustainable Aviation Fuels Northwest (SAFN) titled, “Powering the Next Generation of Flight,” commercial aviation is responsible for five percent of the our gross domestic product nationwide ($731.5 billion). And, here in the Pacific Northwest, our airports—Port of Seattle, Port of Portland and Spokane International Airport, employ well over 100,000 individuals—with aerospace having a $1 billion economic impact in the Spokane area alone. Just this past August, the State of Washington’s chief economist, Arun Raha stated in a Spokesman-Review article that, presently, “the only manufacturing sector growing is aerospace.” But aviation is dependent on liquid fuels and lots of it. Regionally, we use approximately 865 million gallons per year to fuel our airplanes. And, according to Nate Hagens, former chief editor at The Oil Drum, “oil has been on a plateau for the past five or six years.” That is one reason why the folks at SAFN aim to focus on “indentifying regional opportunities and challenges facing sustainable aviation fuel production in the four Northwest states: Washington, Oregon, Montana, and Idaho.” A newly established program—the Biomass Crop Assistance Program (BCAP) through the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) will help move us in that direction. The program focuses on growing camelina as a rotational crop on 50,000 acres in Washington, Oregon and California to help fuel our aviation industry. BCAP was created in the 2008 Farm Bill. It helps farmers and forest landowners with startup costs of planting non-food energy crops for conversion to heat, power, biobased products and advanced biofuels. Since 2004, the U.S. through “The American Jobs Creation Act” has heavily subsidized corn for ethanol production. The U.S. now appears to be moving away from 14

Out There Monthly / September 2011

corn, just a bit, and other food crops, toward second generation oilseed crops such as camelina, the sustainable growth of hybrid poplar trees, and switchgrass in the midwestern U.S. According to the SAFN report, “Over the past

“Camelina is great. It is particularly suited to our region. It grows in a dry setting. You don’t need to water it much and it grows very early in the season.” decade, first-generation biofuels have experienced a roller coaster ride, both economically and in public perception. Presented as solutions for petroleum and pollution reduction, these fuels have been attacked on a number of fronts. Critics claim these fuels drive up food prices and that feedstock crops increase soil erosion and diminish water quality. Questions emerge about whether first-generation biofuels represent real reductions in fossil energy or carbon emissions.” Astoundingly, corn grown for food in the U.S. is now in second place behind corn grown for biofuels. In a recent interview, Hagens says, “We now use more corn to create ethanol than we do for food. And we produce about a million barrels of ethanol a year. Each of those barrels … because of the BTU content, has a lot less energy than a barrel of oil, around 70%. So we’re using half of our corn supply to produce one million barrels of ethanol, when we use nineteen million barrels a day of oil.” Camelina grows in rotation with wheat, does not displace food crops and requires minimal water and fertilizer. According to Rod

Hamilton, Farm Program Chief for the USDA in Eastern Washington, “most dryland grain is left fallow every other year. In the years of summer fallow, ideally, camelina could be planted early in the spring, leaving enough moisture for the food crop the following year.” In 2008, Community-Minded Enterprises of Spokane administered a USDA grant looking at growing camelina on marginal lands north of Spokane. Five landowners participated and the outcomes were promising. “Camelina is great. It is particularly suited to our region. It grows in a dry setting. You don’t need to water it much and it grows very early in the season. You can start sowing it when there is still snow cover. And it doesn’t compete with food crops,” says Dan Baumgarten, Executive Director. While the Community-Minded Enterprises study focused on small-scale growers, they quickly ran into obstacles around fuel certification and ASTM standards. For the new BCAP program, the oilseed will be processed through three separate biomass conversion facilities located in Bakersfield, CA, Tacoma, WA, and Albany, OR. AltAir Fuels LLC in Seattle will oversee the yet-to-be-built Tacoma facility. The fuel produced there will be a hydrocarbon replacement for petroleum-based Jet-A and meets the recently approved ASTM D7066-09 fuel specification. In December 2009, AltAir Fuels entered into a memorandum of understanding with 14 commercial airlines for the purchase of up to 750 million gallons of sustainable jet fuel over a 10 year period. According to the Community-Minded report, “Community Scale Biodiesel,” yields for camelina are approximately 54-72 gallons per acre. With 50,000 acres set aside for this first BCAP run-through, the three biomass facilities could expect to generate approximately $3 million gallons per year of biofuel—less than 1% of the annual 865 million gallons needed for aviation currently in the region. The SAFN report acknowledges that one source will not meet our liquid fuel needs for aviation and, recommends looking to forest residues or slash, waste oil, and

algae, in addition to camelina. But, considering the staggering amount of our current liquid fuel use, not to mention projected use needed for continued growth, the numbers make clear that running our aerospace industry on alternatives alone will be an uphill battle. Regardless, BCAP paves the way for the Pacific Northwest to become a leader in alternative liquid fuels. According to Ross McFarlane of Climate Solutions and co-author of SAFN, “The real opportunity of the clean economy isn’t seized simply by creating solutions to our own regional energy needs – the real opportunity is to seize a leadership position in a global clean energy transformation.” // Juliet Sinisterra served on the City of Spokane’s Mayors Sustainability Task Force in 2008-9 and is now the founder and primary owner of Sun People Dry Goods Co. here in Spokane.

For more information on the Biomass Crop Assistance Program and biofuels please go to: http://www.fsa.usda.gov/FSA/webapp?area=ho me&subject=ener&topic=bcap http://www.altairfuels.com/index.html http://www.safnw.com/ http://www.community-minded.org/energy/ http://www.theoildrum.com/

MO NT HLY

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The only painter in Spokane who has completed an Ironman. Now that’s dedication!


GoGreen: Sustainable Living SUSTAINABLELIVINGCALENDAR (Ongoing) Spokane Farmers’ Market. When: sampling, kids activities, music, cheesemaking Sat. & Wed. 8 AM - 1PM. Where: 5th Ave. between Division & Browne. We offer locally produced bedding plants, vegetables, fruits, berries, beef, pork, lamb, chicken, turkey, eggs, cheese and baked goods. Info: 509-995-0182, spokanefarmersmarket.org.

(Sept 8th 6-8 PM, then all day Sept 17th, Sept 24th, and Oct 1st.) Movable Greenhouse

Workshop. When: Various. Where: P.e.a.c.h. Community Farm, Cheney, WA. Picture a large greenhouse that slides along rails so that it can be moved over different crops throughout the year. $150. Info: 509-216-9273, bryan@ peachlocal.com.

(September 9) On a Wing and a Prayer. When: 7 PM. Where: Jacklin Arts and Culture Center, 405 N. William, Post Falls ID. A benefit for Birds of Prey Northwwest, a nonprofit which promotes conservation of raptors. Admisson $20, live bird of prey demonstration, auction refreshments. Info: 208-666-4003, skeeter@ magnusononline.com. (September 17) FREE Harvest Festival. When: 10 AM to 3 PM. Where: Sun People Dry Goods Co, 32 W 2nd Ave, Ste. 200. Join us in celebrating local foods and farmers. Local food samples, non-profit info tables, local honey

demos and more! Info: 509-368-9378, sunpeopledrygoods.com.

(September 18) Green + Solar Home & Landscape Tour. When: 11 AM - 4 PM. Where:

Spokane. Tour local co-housing & homes featuring green building, remodeling, landscaping, & solar; workshops on chickens, solar & home energy! Tickets at Sun People Dry Goods. Info: 509-218-0128, ecobuilding.org/events/spokanegreen-and-solar-home-tour

(September 24) Garlic & Cover Crop Basics Workshop with Pat Munts & Mighty Mustard. When: 10 AM. – Noon. Where: Sun People Dry Goods Co, 32 W 2nd Ave, Ste. 200. Join Pat Munts and Mighty Mustard to learn about the different types of garlic and cover crops and how to prepare for harvest next year. 509368.9378, sunpeopledrygoods.com

(September 29) Green Purchasing Luncheon with Susanne Croft. When: Noon to 1 PM.

Where: Sun People Dry Goods Co, 32 W 2nd Ave, Ste. 200. Learn how to establish green purchasing criteria, evaluate third-party labels, write a Responsible Purchasing Policy, design a Best Value Scorecard to evaluate spending. $30. Info: 509-368.9378, sunpeopledrygoods.com. //

We Grow It, WE Sell it! OPen WedNesday & Saturday Through the End of October Serving the Spokane Community with more space, great vendors convenient parking and Live Music every Market Featuring Spokane’s finest Local, Natural and Organic: bountiful farm-fresh produce, fresh baked bread & pasteries, beef, pork, lamb, poultry, eggs, honey, fruit, and much, much more!

Open Saturdays & Wednesdays 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. (509) 995-0182 www.spokanefarmersmarket.org We accept: Visa/Mastercard, Food Stamps (EBT), WIC

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wild walls __________ spokane’s climbing gym & yoga studio

✓ Hiking ✓ Camping ✓ Running ✓ Cycling ❑ Climbing

Are you ready to try something new?

Published by: Northwest Maps 10525 E. Sprague Ave., Spokane Vly, WA 99206 455-6981 • Fax: 455-7544

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photo by: photoramsey.com

YOUTH & GROUP PROGRAMS Spider Monkeys Wed. 5-7 pm $12 Single Visit $74 8-Punch Pass

Birthday Parties/Groups

$16 per person (minimum 4 climbers) Package includes: Rental gear 1 hr. climbing 45 min in the party room

Climbing Club $12 Single Visit $100 10-Punch Pass Yoga $65 Month Pass Wed. 6-8 PM Mon. 7:30-9PM Flow Yoga Sun. 6-8 PM Thurs. 8-9AM Holy Yoga Thurs. 6:30-8PM Holy Yoga Climb Team Donations of $8 to $10 $65 Month Pass encouraged by guests and members Wed. 7-9 PM

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202 W. 2nd Avenue • Spokane, WA 99201

509.455.9596 wildwallsgym@gmail.com www.wildwalls.com september- 2011

/ Out There Monthly

15


Outdoor Calendar ADVENTURE RACING (September 18) Plantes Ferry Adventure Race. When: 8 AM – 8 PM. Where: Plantes Ferry Park Spokane Valley. Teams of 3 people travel from Plantes Ferry Park relay style: kayak/canoe (Argonne bridge), mountain bike (Beacon Hill), run (Sullivan via Centennial Trail). Info: 509-444-9817, plantesferry.com. CLIMBING (Ongoing Wednesdays) Spider Monkey Climbing Club. When: 5 – 7PM. Where: Wild Walls, 202 W. 2nd Ave. For kids ages 4 – 10 years. Please call ahead. Come climb and meet new friends! Info: 509-455-9596. (September 10, 17, 24) Saturday Climbing. When: 1-4 PM. Where: REI, 1125 N Monroe. Join our experienced staff belayer and test your skills on our indoor rock wall. Gear is provided and members climb for free. Info: 509-328-9900, rei.com/Spokane. (September 6 & 20) Discover Rock Class. When 6 - 8 PM. Where: 2002 N. Division. Everything you need to harness up, tie in and belay with confidence. This class is for those who wish to get into climbing, as well as for parents wishing to get their young ones climbing safely. $20. Info: mountaingear.com/pages/retailstore/retail.asp. (September 18) Top Rope Anchors. When 10 - 2 PM. Take your climbing to the next level and outdoors. You’ll learn how to set up a top rope on bolts, equalize, and evaluate an anchor, plus you’ll climb on your anchors. Must have own harness, shoes and belaying system and be able to belay, $40. Info: mountaingear.com/pages/ retailstore/retail.asp. (September 10) Adopt-a-Crag. When: 8AM. Where: Q’emiln Park, Post Falls, ID. Come help beautify the cliffs and trails of Q’emiln Park. We will be picking up trash, removing invasive plants, and sandblasting graffiti from the crags, among other tasks. Info: Michael Willett at mwill135@ odu.edu. CYCLING (Ongoing) WOW Cycling Spokane. Great cycling is here and we’re out on the roads and trails! We’re now on FaceBook as Wow Cycling Spokane, friend us! Info: 509-951-6366, wowcycling.com (Ongoing) Belles and Baskets. Whatever style your cycle, join other Spokane women for no-drop rides, treats, and friendship. Info: 509-9514090, facebook.com/bellesandbaskets. (Ongoing) Spokane Bicycle Club. S.B.C. offers eight weekly rides of various lengths and difficulty for members and non-members. Check the web site for ride details. Info: 509-747-5581, spokanebicycleclub.org (Ongoing) Mountain Bike Rides. When: Varies. Where: Spokane Area. Spokane BOMB 16

Out There Monthly / September 2011

(Believers On Mountain Bikes) is a nondenominational Christian group leading multiple monthly rides in the Spokane area. Everyone welcome, helmets required. Info: spokanebomb@yahoo.com, spokanebomb.com (September 8) Bike Maintenance Basics. When: 7 PM. Where: REI, 1125 N Monroe. Our experienced staff will explain basic maintenance-from removing the tire to keeping the drive train clean and functioning correctly. Register at rei.com/Spokane. Info: 509-328-9900, rei. com/spokane (September 10) Purpleride: Spoke d’Alene. When: 9 am. Where: Centennial Trail from Avista parking lot in Spokane to Riverstone Park in Coeur d’ Alene. Charity bike ride/5K walk for pancreatic cancer, Spokane to Coeur d’ Alene. 4, 14, 36 or 56 mile bike. Picnic, concert, raffle, more afterwards. Info: 509-990-9119, purpleride.org. (September 10) Spoke-Ed Day. When: 12 - 4 PM. Where: REI, 1125 N Monroe. Join REI and our local partners for an afternoon of fun and cycling education! This is a free event so bring bike, questions, friends & family! Info: 509328-9900, rei.com/spokane. (September 11) Spokefest. When: AM. Where: Riverfront Park, Spokane WA. Info: www. Spokefest.org (September 15) Mountain Biking Basics. When: 7 PM. Where: REI, 1125 N Monroe. Learn the basics of biking etiquette, safety concerns, biking techniques, and equipment. You’ll also find out about basic bike repairs and where to ride. Info: 509-328-9900, rei.com/spokane (September 17) REI Scratch & Dent Sale. When: 9:30 AM - 1 PM. Where: REI, 1125 N Monroe. REI Scratch and Dent Sales are legendary for their great deals and “garage sale” style shopping. Members only. Ask a sales specialist about membership today. Info: 509-328-9900, rei. com/Spokane. (September 18) Spokane Trailquest. When: Registration & start between 8 & 11AM. Where: Windsor Elementary School, 5504 W. Hallett Rd. It’s like a scavenger hunt on a mountain bike. Locate as many of the 24 stations & ride solo or with a partner. $25 each! Info: 509-2805251, spokanetrailquest.weebly.com. (September 18) RotaryInMotion Century and Family Fun Ride (The RIM!). When: Different start times. Where: Start/Finish at Meadowwood Technology Campus 2100 N. Molter Rd. in Liberty Lake, WA. 5, 15, 25, 50, 100 mile options around Liberty Lake. Register online at http://bit.ly/oUycR4. Info: 509-869-9624, rotaryinmotion.com/rotary/?page_id=2. (October 1) Tour de rock. When: 10 AM. Where: 49 degrees north. Fall mountain bike ride at 49 degrees north. Benefits ski patrol. Info: 509937-4922, Ski49n.com.

Submit your event at www.outtheremonthly.com (October 1) CF Cycle for Life Spokane. When: tbd. Where: Fish Lake Trail. Last great ride of the season! Ride the Fish Lake Trail to Turnbull to benefit Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. 25 and 65 mile options. Registration and Info: 509-2630075. PADDLING (Ongoing) Masters Rowing. When: T, TH 6 - 7:30 PM, Sat 7:30 - 9:30 AM, Where: Spokane River near Upriver Dam. Masters rowing practices for experienced rowers and those who have completed Learn to Row. Sculling and sweep rowing. Recreational and competitive. Fully coached practices. Info: spokanerowing.org (September 10) Kayak Spokane River. When: 10 AM - 1 PM. Where: Plante’s Ferry to Upriver Dam. Paddle by the Centennial Trail, past luxury riverside homes and into Upriver Dam’s south channel for a fascinating Eco-Tour $25 (SRF Member $15). Info: 509-535-7084, spokaneriver.net/meetmeattheriver

(September 11) Recreational Kayaking. When: 10 – Noon. Where: Mt. Gear. Recreational kayaking is all about fun, and we’ll teach you how to get into your boat and to your destination with as little stress as possible. Class covers boat types, basic and some advanced strokes, appropriate clothing combinations, safety for self and others, gear, dry storage, and rigging. Currents and wind also covered. $30. Info: mountaingear. com/pages/retailstore/retail.asp (September 11) Tour Kayaking. When: 1 – 5 PM. Where: Mt. Gear. Tour lakes, coastlines, and islands with a complete set of boat-handling skills. Class covers personal and safety gear, kayak design, getting in and out of your boat, spray skirts, paddles and strokes, bracing, stopping and sweeps, wet exit, self and tandem rescue. After this class, you’re ready for the San Juans! $50. Info: mountaingear.com/pages/ retailstore/retail.asp: (September 17) Eloika Lake Kayak & Canoe Poker Paddle. When: 9 AM - 1 PM. Where: Jerry’s Landing Resort - Eloika Lake. This year will

SIXMONTHTRAININGCALENDAR ADVENTURE RACING (November 20) Fall Beast. Snoqualmie, WA. A day-long romp through the best late fall weather and terrain that Western Washington has to offer. Info: beastrace.com.

CYCLING (October 1) CF Cycle for Life. 25 & 65 mile

options. Includes long sleeved shirt, breakfast, bike mechanics, well-stocked rest stops, ride marshals, lunch catered by David’s Pizza and Pedal Party, prizes and more! Info: washington.cff.org/ cycleforlifespokane

(October 1) Tour de Rock Mountain Bike Ride & 2nd Rough Ride 4000. 49º North. Info: www. ski49n.com.

MARATHONS (October 8) Mt Spokane 50k/25k. When: 7 AM.

Where: Mount Spokane State Park. Inaugural Ultra Trail Run on Mount Spokane. 50k or 25k race course. Info: rainshadow-running.blogspot. com.

(October 9) Spokane Marathon, HalfMarathon, 10k. When: 8am. Where: Spokane,

WA. Experience the beauty of Spokane in October by running the marathon, marathon relay, half-marathon or 10k. Info: 509-624-4297, www.spokanemarathon.us

(November 5) Zeitgeist Half Marathon. Boise,

ID. Info: www.zhalfmarathon.com.

RUNNING (November 20) Jingle Bell Run/Walk, 8 AM Info: www.spokanejinglebellrun.kintera.org (May 6) Lilac Bloomsday Run, the 36th. Info:

www.bloomsdayrun.org

SKIING (January 28, 2012) USASA Alpine and Slopestyle Competitions at Schweitzer. Info: Schweitzer.com.

(February 12, 2012) Langlauf 10K Ski Race. 34th annual XC ski race at Mt. Spokane. Info: spokanelanglauf.org

SNOWSHOE (February 4, 2012) Washington Romp to Stomp. Stevens Pass, WA. Modeled after the

highly successful Race for the Cure®, the Tubbs Romp to Stomp out Breast Cancer consists of a 3k or 5k snowshoe walk or a 3k snowshoe race. tubbsromptostomp.com. //

ULTRAMARATHON (October 1) Route of the Ultramarathon. Info: 208-664-0135

Hiawatha

Have an Event You Would Like to List? // Please visit www.outtheremonthly.com and click the “Submit Your Event” link. // Events MUST be sent in by the 20th of the month to be listed in the following month’s issue. Please follow the when, where format as seen in the calendar. Ongoing events need to be re-submitted each month.


Outdoor Calendar (September 18) Meet Me at the River Kayak Paddle. When: 11 AM - 4 PMWhere: Long Lake Dam to Little Falls Dam. Enjoy Spokane River’s pristine beauty. Spot osprey, eagles, trout, and waterfowl. Talk with Eco-experts over wine & cheese. $35 (SRF Member $25). Info: 509-5357084, spokaneriver.net/meetmeattheriver RUNNING/WALKING (September 17) Palouse Day’s Fun Run for Young Life. When: 7 AM registration 8 AM Start. Where: Bagott Motors, 405 E. Main St. Palouse WA 99161. Two distances: 3K & 7K run/walk. The course involves pavement, sidewalks, walking paths, and gravel roads along the scenic Palouse River. visitpalouse.com/events.html. Info: 509-939-2143, mark_sawyer@hotmail. com. (September 18) Round “About 5k”. When: 9 AM. Where: Deer Park Physical Therapy & Sports Conditioning, 707 S. Park Deer Park. A fun 5k Walk/Run throughout Deer Park benefiting The Leukemia and Lymphoma Society (LLS). Info: 509-276-8811, roundabout5k.com.

and rental products at deeply discounted prices. Camping and climbing gear, clothing, water sports gear and more. Browse the racks for that perfect find! Info: mountaingear.com/pages/ retailstore/retail.asp. (September 17) Mt Gear Demo Boat Sale. When: 10 AM – 6 PM. Where: 2002 N. Division. Great prices on slightly used canoes and kayaks from our demo fleet. This is your chance to get into a quality boat for a fraction of the retail price. Come early to guarantee you get the boat you want! Info: mountaingear.com/pages/ retailstore/retail.asp. (September 18) Peak 7 Bocce Ball Tournament. When: 12:30 PM. Where: Bozarth Mansion. Third annual Peak 7 Adventures Bocce Ball tournament. The tournament will include a meal and raffle this year. More prizes than ever before! Info: 509-385-3123, peak7.org/about/ BocceBall.htm.

THE INLAND NW

(SPOKANE & COEUR d’ALENE)

AWARD-WINNING GUIDE FOR SUSTAINABLE + HEALTHY LIVING

(September 22) Backpacking Washington with Craig Romano. When: 7 PM. Where: REI, 1125 N Monroe. Come backpack Washington with award winning Washington guidebook author, Craig Romano. Backpacking Washington includes 70 trips from the state ranging from 14 to 46 miles. Info: 509-328-9900, rei.com/ spokane //

2011-2012, 7th Annual Edition HUNDREDS LISTINGS Out OFNow. ON GREEN + LOCAL www.gogreendirectory.com BUSINESSES INCLUDING:

(September 25) Tunnel to Towers 5k Run/Walk. When: 9 AM. Where: Spokane Club. 5k Run/ Walk benefiting USA Cares and Stephen Siller Foundation. Register at Active.com search Tunnel to Tower Run Spokane. Info: 509-7102949, tunneltotowersrun.org.

YOGA (September 6 - October 28) Iyengar Yoga Classes for Beginners. When: Mon. 9:30 AM, Tues. 6 PM & Thurs. 6 PM. Where: Sunflower Yoga 6413 E. 14th Ave. Iyengar yoga is known for its therapeutic benefits for all levels, use of props and clear instruction. Gentle and intermediate classes also offered. Info: 509-535-7369, sunfloweryoga.net EVENTS/MOVIES/MISC… (Ongoing) Fast Twitch Sports Performance Program. When: Mon, Wed PM. Friday AM. Where: Deer Park Physical Therapy & Sports Conditioning. Sport specific training to enhance athletic performance. Programs include pre and post testing with development of an athletic profile used in college sports recruiting. Info: 509276-8811, www.deerparkphysicaltherapy.com

F RE E

SPONSORED BY:

(September 25) 5K/10K Run for Diabetes. When: 9 AM. Where: Mirabeau Point Park South Centennial Trail Head. Begin your day at Valleyfest by participating in the Valleyfest fun run. From the serious runner to the casual jogger this event is for everyone! Info: 509-2881223, valleyfest.org/event/activity/5k10krun

Green Building Home + Garden Natural Health Transportation, Energy + Recycling Food Community + Environment

OUTDOOR SEPT 2011 CALENDAR

mark the 5th year for this annual autumn event. A great tradition for many and lots of prizes awarded. Info: 509-363-5418, spokaneparks.org

(September 10) Mt Gear Scuff and Ding Sale. When: Open Hours. Where: 2002 N. Division. Hundreds of gently used, out of the box, demo september- 2011

/ Out There Monthly

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By Jon Jonckers

TOP: Brett Jessen climbing Dr. Ceuse 5.10a. LEFT: George Hughbanks after the first ascent of Camisa Negra! RIGHT: Arden Pete climbing Pearls V4 Swine 5.12. // Photos Jon Jonckers. 18

Out There Monthly / September 2011


IN the mountains, every time someone blazes a memorable new trail or creates a distinguished new path, he or she names either the endeavor or the route. Beyond arriving at the summit by the easiest means, climbers prefer the challenge of a route, and many prefer being the very first on a certain course. Sometimes the route name sticks; sometimes it doesn’t. Into the 1960s, the vast majority of names reflected the primary feature of the route, or simply echoed the names of those that forged the path. However, in the past 40-plus years, rock climbing routes have taken a creative turn, and the name of a rock climb is no longer just The West Face, The North Ridge or The Beckey Route. Back in 1961, after Ed Cooper and Dave Hiser successfully completed the first ascent of the 450-foot east face of Chimney Rock, the route was simply called Cooper-Hiser. Still, Cooper and Hiser didn’t climb the route without resting on their ropes or hanging from their equipment, also known as aid climbing. So in 1972, John Roskelley and Chris Kopcynski ascended the wall via better technique, and free climbed the route without any upward assistance or rest from their climbing gear. However, the route name respectfully remained Cooper-Hiser because Ed and Dave were undeniably the first to claim that path—and thus name the prize. A perfect storm of climbing advancements in the mid-1970s contributed to a boom in rock climbing and climbing development, especially in Yosemite Valley. Once the primary and obvious rock features had been climbed, such as Dihedral at Minnehaha, climbers continued to climb available rock and simply made up names for their routes as they went along. Local climbers found inspiration from other climbers around the country, who were likewise inspired by climbers from

other climbing regions. In comparison, this mishmash of influence mirrors how certain genres of music were influenced, fostered and bred in order to become something greater. Creativity and adventure fanned the early flames of rock climbing. The Spokane Mountaineers grew, Mountain Gear opened up a little climbing store in downtown Spokane, and the boldest Spokane climbers started to carve a name for themselves—not just locally, but deep into the wildest reaches of climbing and mountaineering. Bold climbers such as Roskelley, Jim Wickwire and Kopcynski, as well as Dane Burns and Randall Green, climbed and named some of the greatest climbs in the area. They, along with hundreds of other mountaineers, hikers and scramblers in the Inland Northwest, pioneered the local crags and kick-started the majority of routes with creative names. ------------------------------------------------------George Hughbanks makes friends quickly and easily. He also loves climbing, and has a fever for rock climbing development in the

“Then, I started setting routes at Wild Walls in 1995. Hundreds and hundreds of names. I always did my best to be creative, [to] always try and conjure new short literary visions. But the routes indoors would disappear and fade away from memories over time, so it seemed their brevity led to less serious contemplation. “Routes outside, on the other hand, just age and become hopefully more classic with time. They seem to deserve a little more seriousness. The best names seem to come about organically, at least for me—some kind of reference to the day. Sometimes they have a direct correlation to the specific day—like in the case of 60% Heroes at McLellan. My good friend Greg Welton and I established this route in January of last year. The day was a balmy 20 degrees with a 60 percent chance of more snow. Perfect day to put up a route, right? Greg and I joked that only mountaineers would be out climbing in weather like that. “Other [names] come about because of the people we share our lives with. The Crumb

------------------------------------------------------------------“I fell from the top of that route so many times. I tried to skip clips to save energy, and I must have taken big whips…I don’t know, over a dozen times.” ------------------------------------------------------------------Spokane area. When asked about naming routes, he looked like a young child begging to tell his sister what she is getting for Christmas. “When I first started climbing in 1992, I went to Joshua Tree. I climbed routes that were established 20 years before I learned how to tie-in to a rope. You can still go to Joshua Tree and climb those same routes almost 20 years later,” he says.

Photo of the Month

Brothers Wall is one such place. The wall itself is named after my little boys, the original cookie crumb brothers. Drunken Master and LoLoGoGo are aptly named after my son, Logan, in reference to his appearance while taking his first steps.” ------------------------------------------------------Rick La Belle has a humble demeanor but a winning smile. He has pioneered more than 75

alpine routes in the Cascade and Olympic mountains alone. In 1989, he started sport climbing, and in 1996 he helped create a rock climbing club at Gonzaga Prep where he teaches classes in classical languages and the history of religion. He also wrote the climbing guide Rock Climbs of Central Washington, which showcases seven superior alternatives to Frenchman’s Coulee. “I developed dozens of climbs in the Washington desert with Steve Reames. Since I’m a Latin teacher and he is an English professor, and we were both tired of seeing routenames made from sexual double entendres, we launched into sociology (Guys with Girlfriends, Girls Who Say ‘Dude’), then obscure Latin puns (Supprehension, Aqualine,), and references to obscure art flicks (Secrets and Lie-backs, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, and five climbs named after Akiri Kurosawa films), and eventually obscure French philosophy (Derrida’s Deli, Foucault’s Critique, Seamiotics),” says La Belle. “On the western face of Banks Lake’s Highway Rock, our first climb overlooking the lake was Calanques, named in honor of a limestone crag in France that overlooks the Mediterranean. Our second route in the area was 300 feet of ‘dancing’ on smooth slabs, so we called the route Pas de Deux, after a French ballet. For the next three years we spun out French names for about a dozen routes.” Rick is not afraid to laugh at his own jokes, and he smiles when he reports, “Yes, Croissant follows a curving line, and Fin de Siecle was finished in 1999.” Among hard-core and elite rock climbers, climbing routes in the Inland Northwest receive considerable honor and recognition. The breadth and legacy of climbers in the Spokane area equals many of the greatest climbing collections, and the results are easily found in our climbing com-

Contest for October: Win this cool 6pack Saddlebag prototype (made local!)

Send your vertical oriented, outdoor photo, 3 meg or less, with caption to editor@outtheremonthly.com. Deadline for the October contest with 6pack Saddlebag is 9/20/11. Photo chosen for October issue recieves 6pack Saddlebag prototype. No purchase necessary. Void where prohibited. By entering the contest you grant non-exclusive rights to Out There Monthly to publish your photo in our Photo of the Month feature. See page 21 for current Photo of the Month.

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september- 2011

/ Out There Monthly

19


munity. Less than 30 minutes from downtown Spokane, you can find multiple granite or basalt cliffs to climb. Within a couple hours of travel time, you can scale impressive limestone caves or travel up massive multi-pitch cliffs that require multiple rope lengths to reach the summit. A library of eight or nine climbing guidebooks overlaps the Inland Northwest, and the rate of new sport climbs each year suggests local climbers deserve another climbing guide within the next two years. No matter which crag you pick, the names of neighboring climbing routes show a positive amount of creativity. Some of the most imaginative route names include To Have and Two Holds, Screaming Fingers, Not To My Lichen, Russian Arête, Chronic Rookie, The Hedonist, Flogging a Dead Horse (more on that later), Motley Crux, Natural Born Puller, Overly Optimistic Local, Dr. Ceuse, Klingon, Camisa Negra, Battle of the Bulge, Girls Just Wanna Have Guns, Pearls V4 Swine and Grin And Barrett (again, more on that later). ------------------------------------------------------Bob Ordner will hug you the first time you meet—consider yourself warned. He is a genuine gentleman with a Southern twang that reveals his generous hospitality and never-ending ability to laugh at just about any comedic occasion. Likewise, his quick wit and rich outdoor experiences shine in his clever climbing route names, and most climbers consider it an honor to share a rope with him. “Route naming is a thoughtful process,” he says. “Some of the route names from other areas that have stuck with me over the years were A Steep Climb Named Desire from, of course, A Street Car Named Desire [the Tennessee Williams play]. This route is at Donner Summit, California. Another was a Colorado route named Conan The Librarian.” Bob regularly climbs all across the country. Outside of the impossible Midwestern states, such as Kansas and Nebraska, he has rock climbed nearly everywhere at least once. Lately, his hunger has pointed towards Canada, and his climbing appetite quickly devoured several unique climbs around Nelson, British Columbia, with climbing partner Eric Barrett. “In our own backyard, I think The Perfect Storm deserves mention. Perhaps the best route at the Big Rock was named for the use of a gaspowered blower that blew the eight inches of rock lichen and debris off of the ledges while cleaning the route, creating a dust storm that stuck to all exposed sweaty skin. That blower was quite amazing indeed, blowing rocks and debris out of cracks and creating a Perfect Storm,” explains Bob. “I also appreciate Council of Elders, named after the senior crew of first ascent climbers Bob Loomis, Rusty Baillie and myself.” As if revealing the last of four Aces in his hand, Ordner shares a big smile and says, “Grin And Barrett was named in honor of first ascent member Eric Barrett and incorporates the toothy grin and band of quartz that graces the bottom of the route.” ------------------------------------------------------Few people would pick Serra Barron as one of the best female rock climbers in our area due to her petite size. Then again, she is often one of the most graceful and fluid climbers anywhere— not unlike a powerful gymnast. She loves climbing projects and overcoming obstacles, but she is never too serious. She loves laughing about herself as much as she loves laughing at anything else. She frequently sets indoor routes at Wild Walls, and few doubt any other local female climber has accomplished as many first ascents as Serra Barron (often incorrectly spelled in guidebooks as Sara Barron). 20

Out There Monthly / September 2011

When asked about route names, Serra says, “Usually it’s something I think is funny.” Talking about the route Flogging a Dead Horse, she says, “I fell from the top of that route so many times. I tried to skip clips to save energy, and I must have taken big whips…I don’t know, over a dozen times. That one really took me a long time. But it’s better now, and I think people like it. Eric [Worden] added a bolt near the top so more people would do it. But really, it is pumpy the entire way. Solid 5.11c, but you have to keep moving. Kinda like Unbearable Lightness of Being, I just felt so heavy that day so that’s what I named the route.” ------------------------------------------------------John Roskelley owned an extra large share of the North American climbing world for a period. In the late 1960s and early 70s, he raced through the local Spokane climbs, and proceeded to produce some of the toughest routes of the day. He scaled most of the rugged climbs at Minnehaha, and then overhauled the biggest climbs in the Idaho Selkirks. Later, he developed his own intense climbs, following up with historic ascents all over the Himalaya. The 1978 Northeast Ridge/ East Face and Abruzzi Ridge on K2, Pakistan, established a new route and third ascent of peak. Louis Reichardt and Jim Wickwire reached the summit on September 6, 1978; Roskelley and Rick Ridgeway reached the summit the next day. This was the first U.S. climb of K2, and effectively established Roskelley among the pantheon of great mountaineers. In a recent conversation, Roskelley reflected on the name of his route Don Quixote. “Right from the start I have to say my imagination was focused on finding routes, not naming them. In fact, in many instances I did not want to take ownership by naming the route because I thought that would be a form of bragging,” he says. “This led to many routes, especially boulder problems that I know I did the first ascent, that were later named by someone else. And, of course, a first free ascent was never a reason to change the name of a route the first ascent party put on the climb. Nevertheless, I did name the slightly overhanging jam crack on the north wall at Minnehaha Don Quixote. I had to look up the main theme of the book (which I was reading at the time) in Wikipedia to understand why I had named the climb for this “knight,” and my reason was persistence. Like Don Quixote, I didn’t give up, despite falling twice from the lip just before dark that night. I had my future wife, Joyce, belay me, and on one attempt that night, I was trying to work out the final few moves at the top, but could feel myself on the edge of peeling off. I asked her to take up the slack in the rope, which was considerable. She thought I said I wanted slack. Well, I peeled and fell the height of the route and Joyce just caught me as my feet hit the ground. I rested my hands and arms, made sure Joyce knew what take up slack meant, then made the ascent. So I named the route for my persistence and firm belief I could free it despite the odds—a characteristic of Don Quixote’s quests.” Recalling another outing, Roskelley reveals, “Another route I named was Sweet Judy Blue Eyes. It’s a take on the Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young song, ‘Suite: Judy Blue Eyes.’ For years, as I bushwhacked into the Valhalla [Provincial Park] up Mulvey Creek, I wanted to do the big wall on Mount Dag. Finally, in 1971, I talked a climber from New York, Roy Kligfield—who I had just met in Yosemite Valley—into joining me on an attempt on the wall. The wall was unclimbed. We bushwhacked 5.5 miles in and out of Mulvey Creek two days in a row and finally to the base of the wall carrying big wall gear. There was a resemblance of a track up the creek put in by the

Sarah Moeser climbs The Hedonist, 5.11 at the Rocks of Sharon. // Photo Jon Jonckers. Kootenai Mountaineers, but it was still a vine alder nightmare (no one approaches the Valhallas this way anymore). “We spent three and a half days on the face and made the summit in beautiful weather. Chris Kopczynski and a partner, who had come up to see this face, finally climbed up and met us on top. I named it for the great tune and harmony in [the song] ‘Suite,’ which was on my mind at the time, because despite the vine alder, slick logs, mosquitoes, grizzly bears, a pack rat that stole my leather hammer holster, a terrible approach, and fairly wet, crackless metamorphic gneiss on the wall, we put it all together, had a great time, slept in hammocks and topped out.” ------------------------------------------------------Even now, Marty Bland looks a little like Ricky Martin. Eventually, many years ago, Marty gave in to the circle of friends that joked how he looks like him, and started naming routes Ricky Martin, Livin’ La Vida Loca, and Ejectin’ La Vida Loca. But that was unusual for Marty because he rarely gives in—not in an argument and certainly not on a climb. Marty remains the most prolific and progressive pure rock climber from the Spokane area. He is the first to admit his recreation interests have changed a bit over the past few years, and he has endured a few injuries from other sports, like hockey. Nevertheless, his climbing résumé in Eastern Washington reads like an impossible checklist that two or more gifted climbers could never do in a decade. He has pressed and squeezed climbing routes into impossible walls, and spent endless days exploring places to discover the best lines. “Naked Man was really the first route to be put up at Deep Creek,” he says. “Truth is, the rock looked bad, and we didn’t even know if the bolts would stay in. When we first climbed it, we climbed that route so fast it was silly.” Regarding the name, Marty says, “It was rain-

ing that day, just lightly, but the wall is so overhung that it didn’t matter. I rapped from the top and set the anchors. Next, I pulled the rope so I could rappel again and reach the ground from the fresh anchors on the wall. I was clipped into two bolts, and I was threading the rope, and I dropped it—total beginner mistake, and I was all alone.” Marty laughs and continues, “But right before I dropped the rope, I had seen this guy. Seriously, I saw this old guy, completely buck naked, running through Deep Creek. He was only wearing running shoes! I probably yelled some insults at him, but now that I had dropped the rope I was hoping he would come back. I yelled and yelled, but now I figured I would have to free climb solo to the top of the wall. No joke—I figured that was the scariest option, and I already said my prayers and stuff. So, I’m getting ready to commit, and just then my friend shows up.” Marty finished the Naked Man route, and ultimately transferred all of his knowledge and first ascent investments into the most thorough rock climbing guide to date. Of the many climbing guides, Bland’s Inland Northwest Rock Climbs is the best. But in the interest of giving credit to first ascents, Bob Loomis will always be the first local climbing guide pioneer. Rock climbers can name their first ascent routes whatever they choose. Like any art, they want to be unique, and the movements involved in climbing can be both gymnastic and artistic. More than anything, most climbers just want their routes to be a little memorable, and hopefully more people will enjoy the work invested in making the route possible. Mix wit with charm, add several heavy doses of comedy and sarcasm with a pinch of insults, blend with events currently ruling the media, and you will have an unbeatable recipe for naming climbing routes. //


Photo of the Month

Hank Greer

PhotO: Hank Greer Kjell Schioberg blisters the Let’s Climb a Mountain course on July 9, 2011, finishing 34.3 miles in 4:13:00. Send your vertical, 3 meg. or less submission with caption to editor@outtheremonthly.com. Best photos entries will be picked for upcoming issues.

Roadtrip DJ: September Dave Braun “ROAD RUNNER” / JOAN JETT & THE BLACKHEARTS / GOOD MUSIC It’s a cover, but a more roadtrip-worthy version than the Sex Pistols [Jonathan Richman did the original—ed.]. This is the “on-ramp.” To get up to highway speed requires acceleration and nothing beats straight up rock n’ roll to get wheels moving. Merge wisely. “OUT THERE” / DINOSAUR JR. / WHERE YOU BEEN? J Mascis evokes Neil Young with indie rock sensibilities. The song may be more about searching inward lyrically but sonically it serves well, grabbing big chunks of highway with big chunks of guitar. “MANNISH BOY” / MUDDY WATERS / MUDDY “MISSISSIPPI” WATERS – LIVE No, we are not lost. No, we do not need to pull over and ask for directions. The raw, primal, live version fills the cockpit with energy and spirit. Set cruise control—feet tend to be hijacked by the beat.

Bing Crosby Theater, Spokane Fri, Sat - 7 pm, Sun - 6 pm $15.00 per show or $38.50 for 3-day pass

“RUN” / NEW ORDER / TECHNIQUE If I could pick only one disc for any road trip, I’d probably pick Technique. These songs provided the background for many college road trips throughout the west. “Run” nearly always matched the soundtrack version of an epic windshield panorama. “PRIVATE IDAHO” / B-52’S / WILD PLANET My two most frequent (and most favorite) road trip companions would scorn me for not including some B-52’s. May be Pavlovian or something, but we totally connect a song to a place. //

Hosted by

get your tickets @ 2002 N Division, Spokane mountaingear.com Alex Girard backcountry skiing, Rogers Pass B.C., © Ryan Creary

OTM Sept11 Banff HalfPgVert.indd 1

september- 2011

8/25/2011 12:19:36 PM 21 / Out There Monthly


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Welcome to The dirtbag diaries A Northwest Podcast Treasure. / By Jon Jonckers Way, way back, during the fascinating craze of the iPod but before the launch of the iPhone, Fitz Cahall initiated a truly genius idea. In 2006, he worked as a freelance journalist for several publications, and spent his weekends and vacations skiing and climbing as much as possible. Always keen and receptive to new ideas for articles, Fitz noted that the most entertaining outdoor stories weren’t found in the outdoor magazines; they were discovered around the campfires, or delivered in tents while waiting out a storm, or simply retold back at the trailhead after a long day while sitting on the tailgate with a beer in one hand while the other hand searched through the pack for some ibuprofen. At that time, podcasts were fairly new. Basically, podcast combines the words “pod” (from iPod) and “broadcasting.” Fitz knew about the cadence of people’s voices when they’re telling a story, he understood how laughter during some episodes or pauses during the tragic recounting of others underscores the heritage of storytelling, especially among outdoor enthusiasts. Ultimately, he wanted to share the types of stories that he liked to hear—those with the heartwarming moments that weave in and out of the adventures that lead up to those big moments.

Based in Seattle, Cahall’s outdoor network of friends branched across multiple sports and paths, and his own personal experiences fueled many of the early episodes. He picked up Patagonia as a sponsor, and later New Belgium Beer and Kuat Racks. And he started composing episodes or podcasts of The Dirtbag Diaries, downloadable free on iTunes. While the term “dirtbag” may seem derogatory, it’s really an affectionate title that stems from an oft-quoted Eric Beck phrase that early Patagonia catalog copywriters adopted. They claimed a dirtbag was a super-dedicated outdoor enthusiast that forgoes most customary staples in an effort to be closer to their outdoor craft. Beck once said, “At either end of the social spectrum there is a leisure class.” The modern dirtbag actually encompasses anyone that is driven and fueled by his or her outdoor passion, whether it’s rock climbing, skiing, kayaking, thru-hiking or riding your bike from Alaska to Patagonia. As of May 2011, Fitz reached a bucket-list dream where he was able to create a live Dirtbag Diaries podcast at the 5Point Film Festival. As of July 2011, the Dirtbag Diaries just reached one million downloads. Overall, anyone that appreciates sweating on a backcountry trail and listens to more than two episodes is instantly hooked. Soon after,

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Out There Monthly / September 2011

THe dirtbag diaries is available on itunes and also at the www.dirtbagdiaries.com. // photo jon jonckers.

anyone that exercises with an iPod turns the Dirtbag Diaries into a workout companion, and subsequently finds himself immersed in the craziest yet most vibrant outdoor stories ever told. When asked which podcast was listeners’ favorite, or most downloaded, Fitz responds: “It would be hard to point to just one because the Diaries are so many things. They reflect our community, so they can in turn be humorous, prickly, serious and joyful. No one episode really stands out in terms of downloads

Fitz noted that the most entertaining outdoor stories weren’t found in the outdoor magazines; they were discovered around the campfires. because people who find the Dirtbag Diaries tend to download every episode, which is like 80 plus episodes. I think one of the classic episodes would have to be ‘Help Wanted’— the story of the climbers who worked on the Magic Kingdom’s Matterhorn Rollercoaster. I’m proud of a lot of these stories—‘Cowboy and the Maiden,’ ‘The Crusade,’ ‘True Meaning of Radical’—because a lot of people looked these stories over and I just felt like they were incredible tales. Fortunately, the Internet agreed with me. I think a lot of people are tired of hearing about Lance Armstrong or Everest summits. We’re looking for quiet heroes in our community.” The genius of the Dirtbag Diaries podcast, versus other podcasts, lies in the roots of the dedicated enthusiasts that live in the dirt in

order to be that much closer to their pursuit. Along the way, listeners can discover how world-class alpinist Kelly Cordes, a University of Montana grad, was a ranked amateur boxer. He delivers a knockout essay contrasting alpine climbing to the moment a boxer steps into the ring. Another episode shares the triumph and tragedy of the Hummel brothers, originally from Yakima, and the circumstances that created the greatest ski mountaineers—ever—in Washington. Or simply try and absorb the tale of Chad Kellogg and Dylan Johnson, both from Seattle, and their epic survival on the 10,000foot long ridge of Siguniang in Western China. Some stories are about surfing, others are about sailing, others might touch on flyfishing, and others are as unique as being lost in the Sierras. Regardless of content, all testify to Fitz’s original idea. Fitz says, “There are about 10,000 regular listeners. Most of our listeners are U.S.-based, but there are listeners scattered across the Englishspeaking world. Most of the people who listen do a bunch of different sports—mostly they like being outside. There is a touch of lean towards climbing, simply because that is my background, but we cover a range of topics from conservation, to biking, to war. I don’t think you need to be a hardcore climber or diehard skier to appreciate the show.” The Dirtbag Diaries always delivers a mindboggling adventure to your iPod. While the stories do flow from all over the world, the majority is centered on the Pacific Northwest. Admittedly some are better than others strictly because interests vary or attitudes change. But until you hear about it, you may never know that someone built their own sailboat in their garage and sailed the length of Mexico solo. Each diary is simply amazing. // On your iTunes player, search for the Dirtbag Diaries under Podcasts. Otherwise, you can download complete episodes from the Dirtbag Diaries homepage at www.dirtbagdiaries.com.


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